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Natural Pain Relief for Dogs

Natural pain relief for dogs includes massage, ice compresses, herbs, and more.
Massage can be a useful tool for easing a dog’s pain without drugs. Credit: electravk | Getty Images

Like their human companions, dogs and puppies hurt when they’re injured or when an illness or surgery causes discomfort. Whether a dog’s pain is acute (sharp and recent) or chronic (continuous or frequently recurring), there are natural pain relief options that can help.

Dogs are famous for hiding pain, so pay close attention when your pup limps, has trouble walking, whimpers, whines, reduces activity, licks or chews a leg or other area, or seems restless or agitated. The cause may be a physical injury, osteoarthritis, hip or joint issues, infections (such as ear or bladder problems), tooth or gum disease, or cancer. Not every symptom requires medical attention, but if your dog is in obvious pain, check with your veterinarian.

Managing Acute Pain in Dogs

Acute pain comes on suddenly, such as when your dog cries after hurting himself running or playing, or after surgery, such as when your female dog is spayed. Follow your veterinarian’s recommendations and be ready to provide what injured dogs need to speed recovery: rest, a comfortable bed, peaceful surroundings, easy access to water, and pain-support therapies.

Cold packs are often recommended for acute pain. To apply one, place a thin cloth such as a tea towel between the dog’s skin and a bag of ice or ice shavings, frozen vegetables, or a frozen gel pack. Move it frequently to avoid damaging tissue. Cold packs are recommended for recent injuries, inflammation, bruises, and swelling. They can be used for up to 10-15 minutes at a time, repeating frequently during the first 48 hours.

Managing Chronic Pain in Dogs

Chronic conditions stay for weeks, months, or years. Many, like osteoarthritis, become more debilitating with time. Joint pain and other discomforts that limit a dog’s mobility can be treated with gentle (not hot) warmth from a heating pad, hot water bottle, dry or moist warm towel, or heat wrap. Gentle heat can be applied for 15 to 30 minutes at a time, with equal time off. This treatment helps relieve pain, muscle spasms, and joint stiffness, increases blood circulation to the injured area, and helps prepare muscles for exercise or stretching.

Anti-inflammatory Herbs for Canine Pain Relief

Medicinal herbs known for their anti-inflammatory or pain-relieving effects on dogs include:

  • Boswellia (Boswellia serrata)
  • Cayenne (Capsicum annuum)
  • Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla, Anthemia nobilis)
  • Cat’s Claw (Uncaria tomentosa)
  • Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)
  • Devil’s Claw Root (Harpagophytum procumbens)
  • Turmeric (Curcuma longa)
  • White Willow Bark (Salix spp.)
  • Yucca (Yucca spp.)

See our review of herbs for arthritis and visit the websites that offer herbal pain remedies like Animal Essentials Joint Support, DogPainAway, and DGP for Pets. Members of the Veterinary Botanical Medical Association routinely use medicinal herbs for pets.

Can CBD Help Relieve Pain in Dogs?

Today’s most popular herbal products for natural pain relief for dogs include hemp-derived CBD oils, tinctures, capsules, treats, and salves.

In her 2019 review of CBD’s uses in veterinary medicine, Catherine Ashe, DVM, warned, “There is not a single medication containing CBD that is approved by the United States Food & Drug Administration (FDA) for animals.” This remains true today, though in January 2023, the FDA announced that it plans to work with Congress to develop a new regulatory pathway for all CBD products.

PubMed, the National Institutes of Health’s medical research database, lists over 100 published papers investigating CBD’s canine applications. Several tested CBD’s effect on physical pain and continuing research may prove that specific CDB products given at specific doses effectively control pain caused by different conditions.

Until then, talk to your veterinarian, who may have clinical experience and recommendations. Look for brands that are third-party tested for strength, quality, and safety, such as  Chill Paws, CBD Dog Health, All the Best Pet Care, Honest Paws, or  Medterra CBD for Pets. Third-party testing is important because, according to the FDA, CBD product label descriptions are often incorrect. Individual responses vary, so start with the smallest recommended dose for your dog’s weight (or begin with an even smaller amount) and observe your dog’s reaction. Gradually increase to a higher recommended dose or reduce the dose as needed.

Aromatherapy and Essential Oils for Dogs

Essential oils, most of which are steam-distilled from the leaves, roots, or blossoms of medicinal plants, do more than smell interesting. Many of them have pain-relieving properties, such as Copaiba (Copaifera officinalis), Peppermint (Mentha piperita), Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum), Frankencense (Boswellia spp.), and Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia). For pet application, essential oils are usually diluted in carrier oils and applied with massage or petting.

Some veterinarians have published guidelines about the use of essential oils for pets. Nancy Brandt, DVM, founded the Veterinary Medical Aromatherapy Association and offers online courses to pet owners and veterinarians; Melissa Shelton, DVM, wrote  The Animal Desk Reference, now in its second edition; Mia Frezzo, DVM, wrote SpOil Your Pet: A Practical Guide to Using Essntial Oils in Dogs and Cats, now in its third edition; and Janet Rourk, DVM, wrote a free Essential Oils for Pet Safety Guidebook and founded Essential Oil Vet, an online resource for canine aromatherapy.

Products designed for pet use help relieve pain in dogs of all ages. Dr. Shelton’s Any-Itis blend combines fractionated coconut oil with Copaiba, Helichrysum, and Peppermint. It can be gently massaged into painful joints and other areas of inflammation.

At Frogworks, pet aromatherapist Frances Fitzgerald Cleveland created

Path to Comfort with Sweet Marjoram, Ginger, Helichrysum, Carrot Seed, Grapefruit, Vetiver, and Rose essential oils in a base of safflower oil for the improvement of sore muscles, arthritis, lack of mobility, and pain, plus support for emotional stress, anxiety, and sadness.

Be sure to only use essential oils that are appropriately formulated and safe for dogs.

Canine Massage for Pain Relief

Canine massage therapists are ready to help your dog recover from painful conditions, but there’s a lot you can do yourself. See WDJ’s Dog Massage Instruction and Pain Relieving Massage Therapy for Dogs. For certified pet massage therapists, see the National Board of Certification for Animal Acupressure and Massage and The International Association of Animal Massage and Bodywork.

Systemic Oral Enzyme Therapy

Systemic oral enzyme therapy is more familiar in Europe than in the United States. In fact, the German product Wobenzym is that nation’s most popular NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory) next to aspirin. Products labeled for systemic therapy are enteric-coated, meaning that they survive stomach acid and break down in the intestines, where they enter the blood stream. Systemic oral enzyme products sold in the US include Wobenzym, MediZym, Mega-Zyme, and FlavenZym.

For a detailed description of their veterinary uses, see Enzyme Therapy for Quicker Canine Injury Recoveryand Wobenzym: A Digestive Enzyme Supplement for Dogs. According to the veterinarians we interviewed for those articles, systemic oral enzymes help prevent injuries, speed recovery after accidents or surgery, and bring new mobility to older dogs with chronic stiffness, joint pain, and skin and coat problems. The product NZymes, which is not enteric-coated, is designed for pets, and its website features several videos showing the recovery of dogs in pain.

Enzymes should be given between meals (at least one hour before or two hours after eating) for systemic effects. If the label shows a human dose of 3 tablets twice a day, use 3 tablets once a day for dogs weighing 51-100 pounds, 2 tablets daily for dogs weighing 21 to 50 pounds, and 1 tablet daily for dogs weighing 3 to 20 pounds.

Support Therapies for Dogs in Pain

Veterinary chiropractors (see the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association), acupuncturists (see the American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture), acupressure practitioners (see and Animal Acupressure), and physical therapists (see the Canine Rehabilitation Institute) have long provided help for dogs in pain, and now technologies like PEMF (Pulsed ElectroMagnetic Field therapy) and laser treatments provide additional drug-free support. In addition, members of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association practice the techniques mentioned here.

Whatever the cause of your dog’s discomfort, there may be a natural method that speeds recovery.

Tips for Dog Owners Near a Disaster Zone

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A fire in a residential neighborhood consumes a dog house.
Are you prepared for evacuating away from a disaster with your pets—or helping those who have had to? Photo credit: kristo74, Getty Images

Could you evacuate your home 15 minutes from now, with everything you would need to live with your pets in a hotel for a few days, weeks, or months? What if you had an hour’s notice?

Coverage of the fires near Los Angeles has been triggering to many of my friends here in Northern California, where we have suffered three massive fires (the Camp fire in Paradise in 2018, the North Complex fire in 2020, and, just last summer, the Park fire, which burned for over two months) in recent years. Through working as a volunteer for the North Valley Animal Disaster Group (NVADG, locally pronounced “nav-dag”) through two of those fires, and evacuating my family from two smaller fires that burned close to my home, I consider myself an expert at what to do and what not to do in response to a local disaster.

Readiness Tips

When your receive the very first report of a disaster near you, go find your pets’ ID tags, collars, and harnesses and put them on. Immediately contain your most skittish pet and work your way to the calmest one. Many frightened pets have been lost in the first few chaotic minutes of a disaster. Don’t wait for the call to evacuate before doing this, because once you receive that text from emergency services or see that news report, believe me, your hands may start shaking and your brain may go blank. Before it’s that real, you will be functioning better—perhaps not optimally, but better.

When we had another local disaster (the near-collapse of the Oroville Dam in 2017), I had been volunteering for days with animals that had been evacuated from my local shelter as a precaution. When I received an emergency alert on my phone saying that everyone in my city should immediately evacuate, I was already safely out of harm’s way in a neighboring city with those evacuated animals, but my husband, one of my dogs, and my son’s dog were at home. My hands started shaking so badly and my heart started pounding so hard that took me at least a full minute to successfully press the single button to call my husband’s cell phone to tell him to grab the dogs and evacuate—and many more minutes to figure out how to reach him when he did not answer (I called my next-door neighbors, who were packing their car, and pleaded with them to run next door to tell my husband that I had been trying to reach him; he had been mowing the lawn!). I was dismayed at my reaction, as I consider myself to be calm in a crisis, but the warning was so dire that I lost functionality for a few minutes.

To repeat: When the disaster get real, know ahead of time that you won’t be thinking very well. The more that you have in place in advance of an immediate evacuation order, the better you will be able to respond.

These organizations have done a far better job than I could at listing all the things a person should do to be ready for an emergency with pets in the home. Please check them out!

Pro tip: Plan for a disaster today. Think long and hard about what you would need to evacuate with all of your pets, and put all of those supplies in one or two key places. If making a list would help you in an actual disaster, make a checklist and put it with your emergency “go bag”. Then, do an actual dry run. Set a timer and put collars on all your pets, crate the cats, and load all your pets and supplies in your vehicle. How much time did it take? Did you have everything you needed? Practice until this is smooth and flawless. .

Helping Others in a Disaster Zone

Wringing your hands and wanting to help? There are many things that those of us who are outside a disaster zone can do to help:

Fostering: A video regarding the Los Angeles fires reported that the Canine Rescue Club put out a call asking for people to take shelter dogs into foster care so they could make room for dogs displaced by the fire; they got enough foster volunteers within six minutes to house over 200 dogs who were currently in shelters. That’s wonderful—and so necessary, because many people who evacuate won’t be able to take their dogs with them and will need temporary (and free) housing for their dogs.

But part of me wondered why there were 200 dogs who could benefit from foster care in shelters prior to that call! Please, if you can and there is a responsible shelter nearby who will provide food and veterinary support, foster a shelter dog even when there is no emergency! Fostering can help the dog become acclimated to living in a home, so he’s more likely to succeed when he finds one.

Donations: Financial donations sent to the agencies that are themselves providing temporary shelter and/or veterinary care for disaster victims are the most effective thing that anyone can provide, hands down. With enough money, people whose boots are already on the ground can solve any sort of problem, but a mountain of donations sent by well-wishers can create time-consuming, volunteer-consuming, and storage-consuming problems.

One of WDJ’s veterinary contributors, Dr. Catherine Ashe, worked for weeks to provide veterinary care for victims of the flooding and landslides after Hurricane Helene last year. She also helped recruit and direct other veterinarians and vet techs to provide badly needed services for injured and displaced animals. On her personal Facebook page, Dr. Ashe repeatedly stated that the volunteer veterinary teams needed very specific items, but were instead receiving literal tons of stuff that were both not what was most needed but also a problem to organize, store, and distribute. Moral: Find organizations that are asking for help, and ask what would help most! Do not make assumptions and send whatever stuff you think they might need.

I’ve seen this plea stated elsewhere, for donations that are requested for humans displaced by fires: When donations are needed, please do not send old stuff you are not using and hope it does some good. Your outdated food or medicines and moldy, old clothes and sheets and threadbare towels are not needed or wanted! Brand-new, or freshly washed and barely used clothing, blankets, and towels are quite welcome.

When the Camp fire burned down the town of Paradise, people responded by sending a literal mountain of material for the benefit of the hundreds of dogs and cats that were being held in local emergency shelters. Unfortunately, more than half of that mountain was trash, in no way safe or useful. People dropped off giant dog beds (generous but inappropriate in this situation), and giant pillows and couch cushions for goodness sake, which are all utterly unwashable and useless once they have dog pee or poop all over them, which, in an emergency shelter situation, can happen in about five minutes but will necessarily happen overnight (most dogs in emergency shelters are held in crates and may be taken out of crates just twice a day for a few minutes by exhausted volunteers; they have no runs where they can eliminate separately. For weeks, I and my fellow volunteers filled several Dumpsters a day with wet, sodden bedding that we had no choice but to dispose of.

Also, don’t donate blankets or other textiles that have holes in them, straps, decorative dingleballs, or fabric binding—all of which pose entrapment or choking dangers to pets if used for bedding. Most useful are clean and smaller blankets. Volunteers can easily take home a load or two of fleece throw blankets to wash, but few of us had washers or dryers that could handle king- or queen-sized comforters; these all get tossed after getting soiled. Towels are the most valuable; we could always use more towels to use for bedding (especially in crates for smaller dogs and cats) and for bathing animals. Puppy potty pads in any size and form were also critically needed.

I’m always impressed by how quickly pet owners step up to help other pet owners in disasters; just make sure you are providing help that truly helps!

Here are a few links for those who wish to donate or foster:

https://give.pasadenahumane.org/give/654134/#!/donation/checkout

https://www.animalwellnessfoundation.org/

https://www.laanimalservices.com/about-fostering

https://www.redcross.org/local/california/los-angeles.html

Pannus in Dogs

The risk for pannus in dogs is higher if the dog is exposed to intense UV light, high altitude, and air pollution.
Dogs with pannus sometimes wear goggles to protect their eyes from bright light. Credit: Kate Basedow, LVT

Pannus, or chronic superficial keratitis, is a progressive eye disease that can cause blindness if not treated. This inflammatory disease affects the dog’s cornea, usually in both eyes. The severity of the disease may vary between the eyes. Pannus cannot be cured, but it can be controlled with treatment.

Signs of Pannus in Dogs

Pannus is a growth of vascular tissue over the cornea. It usually starts on the edges of the cornea and spreads into the center of the eye. It may appear to be a raised red area in the outer corner of the eye. The blood vessels cause an opaque haze. As the disease progresses, a dark brown pigment forms that blocks vision. Untreated, it can coat the entire cornea, which is how it causes blindness.

If you notice any vision problem in your dog or his eyes appear abnormal due to discharge or color changes, make a veterinary appointment to determine if the cause is an allergy or an infection. Guessing the cause of an eye problem is risky at best.

Causes of Pannus in Dogs

Pannus may be caused by environmental factors, including:

  • Air pollution
  • High altitude
  • Exposure to intense ultraviolet (UV) light

Dogs living in the Rocky Mountains are considered at higher risk, especially if they are a breed or mix with a genetic predisposition, which includes German Shepherd Dogs, Belgian Tervuren, Belgian Sheepdogs, Rottweilers, and Siberian Huskies.

Diagnosing Pannus in Dogs

Pannus generally appears in dogs about 5 to 8 years of age, although younger dogs have been diagnosed.

A regular physical examination may detect pannus. If your veterinarian suspects pannus, he or she may ask to do a few tests, like corneal staining or checking the dog’s eye pressure. If diagnosed as pannus, the dog will start on prescription eye drops or ointments that are given multiple times per day. Medication can return the eyes to normal, but if the treatment stops, the condition returns.

Treatment of Pannus in Dogs

The first line of defense is usually a corticosteroid, but many dogs will require an immunosuppressive drug such as cyclosporine (Atopica) or tacrolimus.

With treatment, the pigment often regresses, and the pannus goes into remission. Avoiding high altitude exposures and bright UV light can help. Your dog can wear protective UV goggles made for dogs. Dogs who continue to be exposed to these environmental influences may not achieve full remission.

Your dog will need checkups every couple of months to ensure the treatment is working. If so, yearly evaluations are often sufficient.

Resistant cases of pannus may need a referral to a veterinary ophthalmologist. For extreme cases, ocular injections of corticosteroids have provided some relief, as well as cyclosporine implants.

This disease is much easier to treat and control if caught early. Severe cases may never return to full vision. My daughter’s Belgian Tervuren, pictured, was diagnosed with pannus at about 4 years of age. With consistent medical treatment twice a day, her eyes look perfect, and her vision is unaffected. She participates in numerous dog sports and competitions with no visual problems. She does sometimes wear goggles, however, if she is out on the water on a bright sunny day.

WDJ’s 2025 Approved Dry Dog Foods: Search Over 1,100 Varieties

An array of dry dog food displayed in the aisle of a local pet store.
We’re excited about the possibilities of Whole Dog Journal's searchable database of dry dog foods, and hope you find it to be helpful for finding good foods for your dogs.
We’re excited to now present information about every single one of the dry dog foods made by the companies on our “Approved Foods” list, including their complete ingredients lists. This feature is available only to our paid subscribers. Even more exciting: This is a searchable database. You can use filters to find foods that meet many specific needs for different dogs.
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What’s the Best Dry Dog Food? 2025’s Top Picks in 8 Categories

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best dry dog food
Though dogs have an amazing ability to do just fine if they eat enough calories, in order for your dog to thrive, he should be eating a diet with an appropriate amount of macronutrients (protein, fat, and carbohydrates) and micronutrients (vitamins and minerals). The first step in selecting a food is making sure the candidate product is formulated for your dog’s life stage. Photo credit: mjrodafotografia | Getty Images

When it’s time to buy food for your dog, how do you choose? Do you just look for something you’ve heard of before? Go with whatever they were feeding at the shelter or breeder? Shop by price? Ask your veterinarian?

Any of those selection methods might result in a good choice—or you could end up with a wildly inappropriate diet for your dog. Choosing a dog food is not a one-size-fits-all proposition! No food is “best” for all dogs; there’s not even a single pet food company whose products are ideal for all dogs!

Here’s how we choose foods—and our top picks for different types of dogs or situations. We hope that your search can be facilitated by the process we used to select our top recommended dry dog foods (and nearly 20 runners up) in eight different categories.

Start With Our Approved Dry Dog Foods List

You’re likely aware that there are hundreds of dog food companies and thousands of foods to choose from—and the vast majority are not, in our opinion, all that great. To winnow down the contenders, we’ve created a list of companies that make the kind of foods we like: “WDJ’s Approved Dry Dog Foods”. When we go shopping, we consider only foods from companies on that list.

Next, we look at the individual products made by these companies. We’ve made a spreadsheet for each product they offer and entered every bit of information about them: their complete list of ingredients, amount of protein and fat they contain, whether they are formulated for adult maintenance or can be fed to growing puppies—and if so, whether or not they can be fed to large-breed puppies, who shouldn’t consume high levels of calcium and phosphorus.

By using the spreadsheet, we can scan, sort, and compare ingredient lists. We start our search for any type of dog food by analyzing the candidates’ ingredients, looking for attributes of quality—as well as traits that tend to indicate low-quality foods.

Finally, to select the best candidates for foods for specific dogs, dogs whose needs are typical of a certain type (such as highly active dogs, fat dogs, large-breed puppies, etc.), or dogs who belong to humans with budgetary limitations or ethical qualms about buying a meat-based diet, we use more refined criteria. We’ll describe those criteria within each category of foods.
SUBSCRIBER ONLY: The Complete List of Whole Dog Journal’s 2025 Approved Dry Dog Foods

All Life Stages Dry Dog Food/Puppy Food

By law, every dog food label bears a tiny statement that tells consumers whether the product is “complete and balanced” (contains all the nutrients a dog needs in appropriate amounts). This is known as the nutritional adequacy statement or the AAFCO statement, as it references the Association of American Feed Control Officials, who developed a set of nutritional standards for puppies and pregnant or nursing females (called “growth and reproduction”), and a separate set for adult dogs (“adult maintenance”).

If the food has been formulated to meet the needs of dogs in a growth or reproduction phase, the AAFCO statement may reference “growth,” “growth and reproduction,” or “dogs of all life stages.” Growing, pregnant, and nursing dogs need more protein, fat, calcium, phosphorus, and several other minerals than adult dogs—but it’s fine for adult dogs to consume foods with these higher nutrient levels; thus the “all life stages” label.

Whether we’re looking for a food for a growing puppy or a reasonably active adult dog, we look among prospects that have moderate levels of protein. The minimum percentage of protein for growth is 20% “as fed” (how it’s listed on product labels). There is no maximum dictated by the AAFCO dog food nutrient profiles, but few foods exceed 40% protein as fed, so we’d consider 30% protein (as fed) to be moderate; we look for foods with protein levels around that number.

If the food contains supplements such as probiotics, taurine, or glycosaminoglycans (i.e., glucosamine, chondroitin), we want to see them listed on the guaranteed analysis, indicating they are present in verifiably beneficial quantities, not just token window dressing.

Whether we are shopping for a food for a puppy or adult dog, our preference is always for a product with meat and/or a meat meal in the top two ingredients; more meats in the top five or so spots on the ingredients list are even better. We also prefer legumes (such as peas, chickpeas, and lentils) to be used only in minor roles (below the 5th or 6th position on the ingredients list).

Dry Dog Foods for “Adult Maintenance”

Adult maintenance foods often contain lower levels of protein and fat than foods that are formulated to meet the needs of puppies and nursing or pregnant mothers. But, again, AAFCO has not issued maximum levels of fat or protein for any life stages, and some foods formulated for adult maintenance may contain more fat and protein than some foods for all life stages. So, when shopping for an adult maintenance food, take a peek at the protein and fat levels in any food you consider to make sure the amounts are appropriate for your dog. Less-active or overweight adult dogs don’t need foods with super high levels of protein or fat.

If you are unsure about what level of fat is appropriate for your dog, compare the caloric content of the foods you are considering. Fat contains more than twice the calories (9 per gram) of protein and carbohydrates, which each contain 4 calories per gram.

Low Fat Dry Dog Foods

The legal minimum amount of crude fat in a dry adult maintenance food is 4.95% (“as fed,” a term that means this percentage is expressed for the form of food that is in the package); for puppies, the minimum is 7.65% (as fed). In this category, we selected foods with fairly low (but not the lowest) amounts of fat for adult dogs; none of our selections would be appropriate, however, for growing puppies. The dogs who are most in need of low-fat foods are those who are inactive and sedentary, have diabetes, are overweight, have pancreatitis, or are of a breed that is genetically predisposed to pancreatitis.

Remember that dry dog foods contain protein, fat, and carbohydrates; you can’t make a kibble without carbs! When you reduce the amount of any one of those three macronutrients, one or both of the other two will rise—so some lower-fat foods will contain increased levels of protein, some will contain increased levels of carbohydrates, and some will contain increased levels of both. This is where, as always, you need to take your own dog’s unique needs into account. Does he do better on higher-protein or higher-carb foods?

Our top picks in low-fat foods reflect products that take a balanced tack, with increased amounts of protein and carbs. We didn’t select the foods with the very lowest amounts of fat that are on our Approved Dry Dog Foods list. If your dog has suffered one or more episodes of pancreatitis, you may wish to look among those products with the very lowest possible fat levels.

High Protein Dry Dog Food

To repeat, there are no established maximum values for protein in dog food. Dogs can eat and thrive on food that contains twice (or even more) than the minimum amounts of protein they require. This amount of protein is not necessary, however, and foods with high protein levels are much more expensive than lower-protein foods. That said, some dogs absolutely do better on high-protein foods than they do on foods with more moderate or lower protein levels. Particularly active dogs, fit senior dogs, and canine athletes—particularly dogs who are used in endurance or cold-weather activities—may do better on high protein foods.

We don’t generally select foods with the very highest levels of protein for our favorites; we chose foods that were among the highest 20% or so.

Limited Ingredient Dry Dog Food

There isn’t a commonly agreed-upon definition of limited-ingredient dog foods. Some manufacturers will use just five or six major ingredients (the sources of protein, fat, and carbs) in their limited-ingredient foods, while others will contain 10, 12, or more.

Usually, those of us who are considering a limited-ingredient diet are either feeding a dog who is sensitive to either known or as-yet unknown ingredients, trying to prevent aggravating a hypersensitive (allergic) response, or trying to identify which ingredients the dog can digest without triggering an adverse response. The more ingredients a food has, the harder it is to identify exactly which ingredient is troubling the dog—so our bias in selecting favorites in this category is for foods with as few major ingredients as possible.

Grain-Free Dry Dog Food

In our opinion, grain-free foods became far too popular (and for no particular reason!), which led pet food makers to search for every non-grain carbohydrate source they could find (because, again, you can’t make a kibble without carbs). Potatoes, sweet potatoes, and legumes (peas, lentils, chickpeas, and beans) were the most popular ingredients pressed into service to meet the demand for grain-free foods.

In 2018, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration started a firestorm of controversy by publishing a preliminary advisory warning of a possible link between grain-free foods and the incidence of canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM). Despite much study, that link has not been proven, though a link between higher rates of DCM and foods with high inclusions of legumes is still suspected. Today, we feel confident that there is no link between the broad category of “grain-free foods” and canine DCM, and that even foods with a high legume inclusion are safe for dogs as long as their maker adds adequate amounts of taurine and/or its metabolic precursors, methionine and cysteine.

Pet food makers like the higher inclusion of legumes because they can serve double duty as a carbohydrate source as well as a source of protein that is less expensive than animal protein. But the amino acid profile of animal proteins suit dogs better than plant-based proteins. So we feel most comfortable recommending grain-free foods only when they contain a relatively low inclusion of legumes, and for dogs who have a demonstrated lack of ability to thrive on foods that contain grain.

Budget Dry Dog Foods

Our “budget” foods are more expensive than the cheapest foods you can find, but that’s because the cheapest foods you can buy would be disqualified from our approved foods list by several criteria.

The least expensive foods usually use plant proteins (such as corn and peas) rather than animal proteins as their main protein sources. They often contain unnamed animal protein and fat sources (identified on the ingredients list only as “meat,” “meat meal,” or “meat and bone meal,” and “animal fat”)—or just “animal by-products or “poultry by-products.” And, finally, the least expensive foods usually contain highly processed grain by-products—waste from the human food industry. We just can’t recommend those foods.

Dry Dog Foods Containing Alternative Proteins

While they are quite rare, some dogs are hypersensitive (allergic) to all or most animal protein sources. Also, many people have ethical, moral, and/or environmental objections to raising and killing animals to feed their dogs. Fortunately for individuals of both kinds, there is an increasing number of complete diets for dogs that contain no “dead animal” sources of protein.

We’re aware of fewer than 10 foods that fit in this category. Some are vegetarian, some are vegan, and some are . . . well, we’re not quite sure what to call products that use insect sources of protein!

Note that all of these meat-free foods are formulated for adult maintenance only; none are appropriate for puppies.

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: The Complete List of Whole Dog Journal’s 2025 Approved Dry Dog Foods


Best All Life Stages Dry Dog Food

Wellness Core Digestive Health Puppy Chicken & Brown Rice

Things we like:

  • Three meats in the first six ingredients
  • Inclusion of marine micro-algae oil, a vegan source of EPA and DHA
  • Many nutrients on the guaranteed analysis, including EPA and DHA (especially beneficial for puppies) and taurine

First 10 ingredients: Deboned chicken, chicken meal, brown rice, barley, oatmeal, turkey meal, dried plain beet pulp, chicken fat, flaxseed, pumpkin

Protein: Min 31%

Fat: Min 15.5%

Calories: 421 Kcal/cup

Cost: $3.15/lb

Runners up:

  • Dr. Gary’s Puppy Recipe
  • Tender & True Small Breed Organic Turkey & Oats Recipe
  • The Honest Kitchen Whole Grain Chicken Clusters for Puppies

Best Adult Maintenance Dry Dog Food

Stella & Chewy’s Superblends Raw Blend Whitefish & Salmon Recipe

Things we like:

  • Three meats in the first six ingredients
  • Many extra nutrients on the guaranteed analysis, glucosamine, chondroitin, taurine, probiotics
  • Baked food, not extruded

First 10 ingredients: Whitefish, whitefish meal, oatmeal, barley, sunflower oil, salmon, flaxseed, tomato pomace, cod, quinoa

Protein: Min 27%

Fat: 14%

Calories: 453 Kcal/cup

Cost: $2.77/lb

Runners up:

  • Annamaet Original Ultra Chicken Meal & Brown Rice Formula
  • Nulo MedalSeries Ancient Grains Adult Beef, Barley, & Lamb Recipe
  • The Honest Kitchen Whole Grain Chicken Clusters

Best Lower-Fat Dry Dog Food

Chicken Soup for the Soul Classic Weight Care Dry Dog Food, Brown Rice, Chicken, & Turkey Recipe

Things we like:

  • Maximum % of fat also listed on guaranteed analysis
  • Though meat is not first on ingredients list, two fresh meats and two meat meals immediately follow brown rice (2nd–5th)
  • Peas play a supportive role, but not too high on ingredients list (7th)

First 10 ingredients: Whole grain brown rice, chicken, turkey, chicken meal, turkey meal, cracked pearled barley, peas, oatmeal, white rice, faba beans

Protein: Min 21%

Fat: Min 6%, Max 9%

Calories: 328 Kcal/cup

Runners up:

  • Blackwood Lean Senior Chicken Meal with Ancient Grains (Min 6.5% fat)
  • Eagle Pack Reduced Fat (Min 6% fat)
  • Grandma Mae’s Low Fat Entrée (Min 7% fat)

Best High Protein Dry Dog Food

Rawz Meal-Free Dehydrated Chicken, Turkey, & Chicken Recipe

Things we like:

  • Ingredients list starts with two dehydrated meats, then two meats, then three organ meats
  • Despite high protein, moderate fat level (12%)
  • Taurine added to formula

First 10 ingredients:  Dehydrated chicken, dehydrated deboned chicken, chicken, turkey, chicken liver, turkey liver, turkey heart, pea starch, dried peas, tapioca starch

Protein: Min 40%

Fat: Min 12%

Calories: 462 Kcal/cup

Cost: $6.65/lb

Runners up:

  • Orijen Amazing Grains Fit & Trim (U.S. Formula) (42% protein)
  • Wellness Core+Wholesome Grains Puppy (37% protein)

Best Limited Ingredient Dry Dog Food

Essence LIR Ocean Recipe

Things we like:

  • Novel protein from two species of fish (whitefish and herring) may benefit dogs with allergies to more common proteins
  • Quinoa is also a novel carb source for many dogs
  • First 10 ingredients: Whitefish, herring, whitefish meal, herring meal, quinoa, pumpkin, olive oil, dicalcium phosphate, natural whitefish flavor, calcium carbonate

Protein: Min 35%

Fat: Min 17%

Calories: 429 Kcal/cup

Cost: $4.54/lb

Runners up:

  • Earthborn Holistic Venture Turkey Meal & Pumpkin
  • Natural Balance Limited Ingredient Chicken & Brown Rice Recipe

Best Grain-Free Dry Dog Food

Petcurean Go! Solutions Carnivore Grain Free Chicken, Turkey + Duck Senior Recipe

Things we like:

  • Six meats and meat meals in the first six spots on the ingredients list
  • Several legumes, but low on ingredient list (even combined, not present in an excessive amount)
  • Added taurine

First 10 ingredients: Chicken meal, turkey meal, salmon meal, deboned chicken, deboned turkey, deboned trout, potatoes, peas, tapioca, lentils

Protein: Min 32%

Fat: Min 14%

Calories: 394 Kcal/cup

Cost: $3.68/lb

Runners up:

  • Farmina N&D Brown Lamb, Norwegian Kelp, & Carrot Recipe
  • Halo Elevate Grain-Free Red Meat Recipe Adult

Best Budget Dry Food

Triumph Wild Spirit Chicken & Brown Rice Recipe

Things we like:

  • Deboned meat (a lower-ash ingredient) and a meat meal 1st and 2nd on ingredients
  • Many extra nutrients (including probiotics) on the guaranteed analysis

First 10 ingredients: Deboned chicken, chicken meal, ground brown rice, pearled barley, oat groats, rice bran, chicken fat, dried plain beet pulp, flaxseed meal, natural chicken flavor

Protein: Min 25%

Fat: Min 15%

Calories: 362 Kcal/cup

Cost: $2.33/lb

Runners up:

  • Chicken Soup for the Soul Classic Adult Dry Dog Food Chicken, Turkey, & Brown Rice Recipe ($1.96/lb)
  • Wellness Complete Health Deboned Chicken & Oatmeal ($2.31/lb)

Best Alternative Proteins Dry Dog Food

Jiminy’s Good Grub

Things we like:

  • Eco-friendly, humane, sustainable formula
  • Grub protein is highly digestible and prebiotic (helps feed beneficial bacteria in the gut)
  • Baked, not extruded

First 10 ingredients: Dried black soldier fly larvae, oats, dried yeast, sweet potato, potato protein, sunflower oil, brown rice, dried plain beet pulp, dicalcium phosphate, natural vegetable flavor

Protein: Min 28%

Fat: Min 14%

Calories: 426 Kcal/cup

Cost: $4.12/lb

Runners up:

  • Natural Balance Vegetarian Recipe (protein sources are peas and potato protein)
  • Open Farm Kind Earth Premium Insect Kibble Recipe (protein sources are black soldier fly larvae and dried yeast)

Raw Bones for Dogs

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Raw bones for dogs can be a tasty treat. However, they can also cause dental injuries and gastric obstructions.
There are pros and cons to giving your dog raw bones. Along with sourcing fresh, properly-sized, uncooked bones, consider your individual dog and the potential health risks before letting her have one. Credit: mikedabell | Getty Images

People have been giving raw meaty bones to dogs ever since the two species teamed up as hunters and companions. In the 20th century, the convenience of commercial canned food and kibble took precedence in the canine diet, but many people continue to give raw bones for recreational chewing, dental benefits, or as part of a raw diet.

However, there’s disagreement on whether it’s safe or beneficial to give raw bones to dogs. Veterinarians generally recommend against them, having treated dogs with broken teeth, obstructions or intestinal perforations related to chewing or ingesting bones. Most owners who give them cite dental and mental benefits. Here’s what to consider about raw bones for dogs.

Pros of Raw Bones for Dogs

Chewing on bones can do a great job of removing plaque and tartar off teeth, keeping fangs gleaming and breath fresh. That’s more than a cosmetic benefit. Plaque is a soft biofilm and makes a cozy home base for bacteria to attack the gums, inflaming them and causing damage to periodontal tissues. The mouth is the gateway to the rest of the body, and studies have established a statistically significant association between periodontal disease and cardiac, kidney, and liver disease in dogs.

Dog lovers who give bones say chewing aids dental health and reduces the necessity for professional veterinary cleanings, which can be expensive. Chewing bones also provides a mental and physical workout for dogs, especially dogs who are “busy” and food-oriented.

Cindy Steinle has American Bulldogs, notorious for poor dental health. Chewing marrow bones keeps her dogs’ teeth clean and their minds occupied, she says.

Risks of Eating Bones

Veterinarians, who see the different ways bones can go wrong, usually aren’t fans.

“I’m sure for every thousand dogs that get those bones, there’s only one or two that have a problem, but it’s an avoidable problem,” says Tony Johnson, DVM, DACVECC, an emergency and critical care specialist in Chicago.

Physical hazards include shards that can poke into the mouth or tongue or pierce the esophagus, cause choking, or perforate or obstruct the stomach or intestines. Broken teeth and constipation are additional concerns. And there’s no way to predict if or when a dog will have a problem with bones.

Collie owner Rosemary George used to give her dogs lamb femurs, but the approach of Hurricane Sandy in 2012 coincided with one of her dogs exhibiting worrisome signs of what appeared to be bloat or an intestinal blockage. “Because everything was shut down in advance of the hurricane, we had to go to an emergency clinic that had a generator in case power was lost,” she says. “Everything ended up all right in the end. It wasn’t bloat and they were able to clear the blockage of bone fragments without surgery, but I was unable to pick him up for two days because of the hurricane and its aftermath. That turned out to be a very, very expensive lamb femur.”

Having something to chew is certainly important, says Ross Massimiano, DVM. “The chewing action can help keep teeth cleaner. I think of chewing as brushing, in a way, for dogs. Something to chew is important to have.”

He’d just prefer that it not be a natural bone. Besides the aforementioned risks, he worries about environmental contamination in homes with children, women who are pregnant, or individuals who are immunocompromised.

The increasing incidence of avian influenza (H5N1) in cattle and cats also has him concerned about canine exposure to raw meaty beef bones. While currently cats—both domestic and wild—are at far greater risk of avian influenza than dogs, Dr. Massimiano worries that a random mutation could affect dogs as well.

Choosing Raw Bones for Dogs

When giving bones, take into account the dog’s temperament, size, health, and lifestyle. Here’s what to know about choosing the right ones for your dog and where to get them.

The first thing to consider is how your dog eats. Gulpers may simply not do well with bones. They’re not going to get the dental or meditative benefits and may be more prone to choking.

Bones should be larger than the dog’s mouth so there’s no possibility of the dog swallowing them. Pay attention to how much the dog gnaws away over time and toss them when they get too small.

Avoid giving bones to dogs who are immunocompromised. That means very young dogs, who don’t have fully developed immune systems; dogs undergoing chemotherapy or steroid treatment or with chronic health conditions; and senior or geriatric dogs, who may have weakened immune systems or poor dental health.

Give recreational bones separately from meals and only when you’re able to consciously supervise chewing. Take them up after about 10 minutes (before you get bored), clean them, and freeze until the next use.

Types of dog bones that generally come to mind for recreational chewing are marrow and knuckle bones, especially if they still have attached meat, cartilage, fat, and connective tissue. They are sometimes referred to as “wreck bones,” though, for the broken teeth and other injuries they can cause.

Labrador owner Linda Rehkopf used to give her dogs raw marrow bones. Then one day her dog Story flipped a marrow bone over her bottom canines and around her jaw, like a donut. At the veterinary clinic, she put Story in a stand-stay and gave a “watch me” cue while the veterinarian chipped away at the bone with a bolt cutter. Afterward, the veterinarian advised no longer giving marrow bones unless they were longer than four inches.

If they’re the right size and the dog is supervised while chewing, marrow bones have some advantages. “They maintain scent and flavor, they’re washable, refillable and reusable, and they can be frozen,” Steinle says. “When you’re done with them, toss them in the garbage. They’re biodegradable, as well.”

When her pet-sitting clients ask about giving bones, Steinle suggests knuckle or marrow bones because it’s easier to monitor dogs chewing on them, but she recommends that people ease into giving them. Knuckles, in particular, require an adjustment period because more tissue remains on them, she says.

The fat in marrow-filled bones can cause diarrhea. Remove most of it before giving the bone, leaving only a small amount to entice the dog.

Heather Houlahan, who has English Shepherds running her small Pennsylvania farm, prefers to give soft, non-weight-bearing bones that the dog gnaws and consumes fully. Those types of bones include duck necks, chicken backs, and venison, sheep, and goat ribs. The bones are part of a varied homemade diet of meat and organs, vegetables, grains, kibble, canned dog food, and canned fish.

Unless, like Houlahan, you do your own butchering and hunting, the best source for raw meaty bones for dogs is from a butcher. Even if you don’t shop at a local butcher, the meat department at your grocery store may be able to provide you with the type of bones you’re looking for and grind chicken necks or backs for you.

Never give cooked or dried bones. They become brittle and are more likely to splinter and cause injury. Dr. Johnson is also not a fan of synthetic bones or rawhides, saying they have the same risk of causing choking or obstructions as raw bones. “My favorite toy is something that can’t be ingested at all, and my favorite treat is something that can be completely ingested,” he says. “Anything in between, you’re just asking for trouble.”

Proper Handling of Raw Bones

One of the arguments against giving bones is the risk of handling raw meat and transmission of food-borne pathogens. Take the same precautions you would in preparing hamburgers or roast chicken for yourself:

*Refrigerate or freeze raw bones until you give them.

*Use a cutting board that is reserved for use with your dogs’ food.

*Sanitize counters or cutting boards that bones have touched.

*Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling bones or raw meat. (This is especially important with poultry, which often carries salmonella bacteria.)

*Give bones outdoors or in an area that can be easily cleaned afterward.

Additional Safety Tips

  • If your dog is new to bones, start slowly. For kibble-fed dogs, it can take time for their digestive system to adjust to the additional meat and fat.
  • Encourage dogs to take their time chewing. Overly aggressive chewers may attempt to swallow bones.
  • Avoid giving bones to dogs with severe periodontal disease. Chewing bones may be painful for them and they may be more prone to broken teeth, leading to infection, reluctance to eat, or tooth loss.
  • Supervise, especially if your dog tends to gulp food without chewing. That behavior may carry over to bone chewing.
  • Don’t let dogs crunch up bones and eat them. That’s when bone fragments can become wedged painfully between teeth or bone impactions and intestinal obstructions or perforations are likely to occur. Don’t hesitate to take your dog to the veterinarian if you suspect an obstruction or perforation. Signs of problems include unusual lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea.
  • To prevent fights or guarding behavior, never give bones to multiple dogs in the same area. Crate them in separate rooms or otherwise separate them.
  • If your dog has food- or toy-guarding tendencies, it’s best not to give bones at all.

Lots of people give their dogs raw meaty bones with no ill effects and plenty of benefits. Consider your ability to recognize and handle a problem, including financially, and proceed accordingly.

Recognizing and Treating Unhealthy Dog Nails

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Unhealthy dog nails can cause pain, discomfort, and even permanent injuries if not addressed.
In addition to being painful for the dog, broken or split nails can lead to infection. Credit: Petra Richli | Getty Images

The most common problem for dog claws is lack of proper trimming, but it is possible to have truly unhealthy dog nails. Signs that your dog needs a veterinary visit include brittle nails that break frequently, discharge at the base of the nail, and claws growing into the paw pads.

Healthy vs. Unhealthy Dog Nails

Your dog’s claws should be short and strong with a smooth, slightly shiny surface. Ideally, they will have a gentle downward curve, tapering toward the point.

For dogs with white nails, a healthy nail will be the same color as human nails – pale pinkish at the base where the claw wraps around the sensitive quick and milky white at the end where it is just solid keratin.

For dogs with black nails, the claw will be a uniform black color.

Dog nails can also be varying shades of reddish brown depending on the pigmentation of your dog’s skin. These claws typically are lighter at the tip, but the difference may be more subtle than with white nails.

Each claw should be growing smoothly out of the dog’s paw as an extension of the toe. Many nails have a shallow groove along the bottom, which is normal.

Signs of unhealthy dog nails include:

  • Frequent broken nails
  • Brittle texture that cracks or breaks frequently or shatters during nail trims
  • Split nails
  • Soft, mealy texture
  • Rough or uneven surface
  • Pus oozing from nail, including when cut
  • Bleeding around the base of the claw
  • Oily discharge on or at the base of the nail
  • Color change
  • Some nails being a dramatically different shape than others
  • Changes in growth rate or direction
  • Licking and chewing at the nails and paws

Common Dog Nail Problems

These are some of the more common causes of unhealthy dog nails:

  • Bacterial nail infection
  • Fungal nail infection
  • Broken nails due to trauma
  • Broken or split nails due to excess length
  • Malnutrition
  • Allergies

A less common but more severe potential cause of nail problems is the autoimmune disorder lupoid onychodystrophy (also called symmetrical lupoid onychodystrophy or SLO).

Fungal or Bacterial Nail Infection

Dog nails are pretty hardy, but they can become infected. These infections are usually secondary to other issues such as a cut, broken nail, or allergies that weaken the body’s defenses and allow infectious agents to set up shop.

The appearance of a nail infection can vary. Bacterial nail infections generally have an oily or pus-like discharge, while fungal infections such as ringworm may be crusty. Yeast infections often have an odor similar to corn chips.

Your veterinarian will use a skin scrape and cytology to evaluate the infectious agent. Treatment may include both topical medications right at the source as well as oral medications for deep or widespread infections.

It is critical to treat for the full course of medication and to keep any follow up appointments. Nail bed infections can be stubborn and the outside may look perfectly normal while there is still infection present deeper in the claw base.

Broken Nails

Dogs can catch and break a nail on fences, furniture, their crates, or even running in the woods. The break may just affect the tip of the claw or could go all the way to the base. Sometimes the toe may be broken or dislocated as well.

The longer the nail, the greater the risk of a break. Long nails can get caught on clothing and dog beds or break during normal activity due to their excess length. Loose dewclaws that do not stay close to the leg are also at higher risk of getting caught on things when the dog is running around.

If a piece of the broken part of the nail is still attached, it should be removed. Loose, flapping nail tissue is just going to keep getting caught on things and causing your dog more discomfort. You may be able to remove the loose piece on your own, but a vet visit is often needed.

Remember that your dog’s paw may be quite painful and even the sweetest dog may bite when in pain. Cleaning and treating the broken nail may require sedation.

Your veterinarian may prescribe antibiotics to prevent infection and may recommend bandaging the paw for a few days if the nerve within the claw is exposed. Pain meds may also be prescribed.

Allergies

If your dog suffers from chronic nail infections or has issues with multiple claws/paws at the same time, an underlying allergy may be part of the problem. Your dog may be allergic to something in his food or in the environment, or to multiple things. Getting the allergies under control will help to prevent recurring nail infections.

Lupoid Onychodystrophy

Lupoid onychodystrophy or SLO is not common, but it is very unpleasant. This autoimmune disorder causes your dog’s immune system to attack the nails. It can cause the claws to be brittle or abnormally shaped, and to completely fall off. It can also be quite painful.

If your dog frequently breaks or loses nails, especially if multiple nails are often affected at the same time, lupoid onychodystrophy may be the culprit. Abnormal nail texture that persists even with proper nutrition is also a cause for concern.

German Shepherd Dogs, Rottweilers, and Gordon Setters are at increased risk of having this issue.

Diagnosing SLO requires ruling out other issues and taking a biopsy of the nail bed. It is then treated with immunosuppressive medications.

Monitoring Your Dog’s Nails

Ideally, you should be trimming your dog’s nails at least every other week to keep them at a proper length. Frequent nail trims mean you can still make progress and maintain short nails without having to cut a bunch of nail off each time.

Having regular nail trims as part of your care and grooming routine also provides the perfect opportunity to observe your dog’s nails close up. You will get a good sense of what your dog’s claws normally look like and how fast they grow. This allows you to spot any concerning changes early.

When to Call Your Vet

Some minor nail issues will resolve with time and proper nail trimming to shape the claws, but others require a veterinary exam and medications to get your pup up to snuff.

Schedule an appointment with your dog’s vet if:

  • Your dog is in pain due to a broken nail
  • Claws are curling around and growing into the paw pad
  • There is an abnormal odor from the paws
  • A nail has split
  • Your dog frequently breaks or rips off nails
  • Your dog bites at his nails—this is due to itchiness or discomfort
  • There is bleeding or discharge around the base of the claw
  • Claws ooze pus or discharge when cut
  • The texture or color of the nails has changed
  • Claws are growing in unusual directions
  • A broken nail does not grow back

Thankfully, most claw issues are not an emergency and can wait for regular business hours to be addressed. The exception is if you are unable to stop bleeding from a broken nail even after applying pressure.

If you have a new dog who may not have had proper care and nutrition before joining your family, don’t worry too much about unusual nail texture, shape, or color. Poor nutrition and hazardous living conditions can lead to unhealthy dog nails, and it may take a couple months before your dog produces normal, healthy claws. Feed a complete and balanced diet, trim the nails regularly, and monitor their progress over time. But if your new dog’s paws and claws are painful, smell bad, or have a discharge, he will need to be checked over by a veterinarian.

How to Treat Dog Hives at Home

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Hives are an alarming skin allergy that can appear suddenly. Home treatment for dog hives can soothe these outbreaks until you can see a vet.
Contact with something that causes an allergic reaction in your dog can result in hives. While hives are usually not harmful, a consultation with your veterinarian is always wise. Credit: Alexei tm | Getty Images

Hives are a common skin reaction in dogs that causes raised, itchy bumps on their skin. Hives can appear suddenly and may range in size from small spots to larger areas covering significant parts of the body. While hives themselves are typically not life-threatening, they can be a sign of an allergic reaction or other health issue that may require medical attention. If the hives affect the dog’s nose or throat, they could interfere with breathing, which is a medical emergency.

Hives occur when the body releases a chemical called histamine into the blood. This causes the blood vessels to dilate, leading to fluid leakage and swelling in the surrounding tissues. Hives are usually the result of direct contact with a substance that causes an allergic reaction. This can result from contact with environmental allergens, food allergens, insect bites or stings, or medications.

How to Get Rid of Hives

If your dog develops hives, the appropriate treatment depends upon the severity of the reaction and its underlying cause. The first step in treating hives is to identify and remove the potential allergen:

  • If you suspect the hives are caused by food allergies, stop feeding the suspected food immediately.
  • If your dog has been exposed to an environmental allergen such as pollen, mold, or dust, bringing your dog indoors or using an air purifier may help provide some relief.
  • If the hives are caused by an insect bite or sting, particularly from bees, remove any insects or stingers from your pet and bring them inside.

Note: Dogs can experience significant swelling around the lips and face from bee stings, which can progress to throat swelling that can compromise your pet’s airway. These severe allergic reactions (anaphylaxis) are medical emergencies and require immediate veterinary care.

Dog Hives Treatment

Antihistamines and corticosteroids can help relieve the itching and swelling caused by hives. In severe cases, injectable medications administered by your vet can bring about rapid improvement. At-home hives treatments for your dog include:

  • Over-the-counter antihistamines, such as Benadryl. These are commonly used to treat mild reactions in dogs and should be administered under veterinary supervision. Be sure you are using a drug that only contains diphenhydramine and nothing else. See how to calculate a Benadryl dosage for your dog.
  • Giving your pup an oatmeal bath may help soothe their skin and relieve itching.
  • Cold compresses on affected areas may help provide temporary relief and help reduce swelling. Use a clean cloth soaked in cold water, or wrap some ice in a towel, and gently apply it to the hives for several minutes at a time.

Hives Prevention

To prevent further episodes of hives, avoid known allergens. If your dog is sensitive to environmental allergies, bathe the dog regularly to remove allergens such as dust and pollen from his coat. Ensure your dog is on a consistent flea prevention regimen to prevent flea-bite allergies and keep an eye on your pet when they are outside to prevent bee stings.

Hives are a common reaction in dogs that can be triggered by various irritants. While hives are usually not life-threatening, they can be uncomfortable for your dog and may indicate an underlying issue.

If your dog develops hives, report the incident to your veterinarian so it can be noted in your dog’s records, as allergic reactions may worsen over time. Consult with your veterinarian to determine the best course of action, especially if the reaction is severe or persistent.

If the episode is related to a vaccination, your veterinarian may recommend pre-treatment with antihistamine or a modification to vaccination schedules may help your vet minimize future reactions.

Why Is My Dog’s Vulva Swollen?

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Swelling of a dog's private areas can be caused by injury or dog vaginitis.
A female dog’s vulva normally swells and has discharge during a heat cycle. If your dog is not in heat but excessively licks her vulva or you see discharge, she needs a veterinary appointment.

A dog’s vulva can swell during a heat period in an intact female. That is normal. If she’s not in heat or spayed, a swollen vulva may indicate inflammation, irritation, or infection. Your female dog may occasionally lick her vulva to keep the area clean, but it’s wise to report any excessive licking to your veterinarian.

If you see pink moist tissue protruding from the vulva, your dog may have a vaginal prolapse, which is when the vaginal tissue is visible at the vulva. A prolapse is rare, however, and happens in intact bitches. A tumor in the vulvar area is also possible but, again, uncommon.

Almost always, vulvar swelling is related to a heat cycle and not cause for concern. Abnormal licking or discharge could indicate a problem in the dog’s reproductive or urinary system, which should be seen by a veterinarian.

Female Dog Parts

Your female dog has a straightforward reproductive system:

  • Ovaries
  • Uterus
  • Cervix
  • Vagina
  • Vulva

The ovaries, uterus, cervix, and vagina are internal—you cannot see them.

The vulva, sometimes called “dog’s private part,” is the opening that you see on the outside of the dog. Urine passes through the vulva as well as puppies if she gives birth.

Vaginitis in Dogs

Vaginitis (inflammation of the vagina) occurs due to a vaginal infection. If your dog constantly licks her vulva, an infection, inflammation, or skin irritation may be present that requires treatment.

Your dog may also be suffering from urinary incontinence, which may leave the vulva wet. Treatments for urinary incontinence are available, including the medication Proin.

If you notice blood or any other discharge, and your dog is not in heat, she should see a veterinarian. The discharge may be coming from higher in the reproductive tract. Pyometra, a uterine infection, can be fatal if not treated quickly. But even if your dog is spayed and you see discharge from the vulva, a veterinary visit is in order.

If your dog has a malformed vulva that traps debris, it can lead to vaginitis, and surgery may be needed to correct the deformity.

Dog Vaginitis Treatment

If your dog develops vaginitis, you may notice her frequently licking her vulva, rubbing her rear (like dogs with an anal gland problem), or chewing in that area. Some dogs will urinate more frequently. Male dogs can be attracted to a female dog with vaginitis, even if she is spayed.

Vaginitis often causes a discharge that comes out through the vulva. Any puslike discharge is abnormal and a reason for a veterinary visit.

Note: A clear but slightly thick fluid can be expected during some stages of your dog’s heat cycle. A bloody discharge usually signals the start of a heat cycle.

Puppy Vaginitis

Puppy or juvenile vaginitis can occur in female puppies from 8 weeks to about 8 months of age. You might notice some discharge or your puppy licking more than usual in the vulvar area. The vulva may swell a bit from the irritation of the licking. The hair in that area may be sticky or have dried crusts from the discharge.

These signs may wax and wane over weeks or even months. Almost always, all symptoms disappear once your pup has her first heat. In the meantime, you can gently clean the area when there is discharge. Warm water is usually sufficient. You don’t want any potent cleaning agents that might irritate sensitive tissues.

Adult Dog Vaginitis

Vaginitis in a mature female dog may be harder to diagnose and treat. If your dog is intact, your veterinarian will want to see where she is in her heat cycle. Swabs to evaluate cells and possibly a culture if the discharge indicates bacterial infection will be done. An X-ray may be taken to rule out a pyometra.

If your dog was spayed, your veterinarian may do the same testing to ensure there is no “stump pyometra,” which is an infection of the tissues left after her spay surgery.

For adult dogs with vaginitis, a gentle douche may be prescribed. Antibiotics will be used if there is evidence of bacterial infection. Keeping the vulvar area clean is important.

How to Help a Dog with Separation Anxiety

Helping a dog with separation anxiety starts with recognizing the problem.
Management and training can often improve separation anxiety in dogs. Credit: Photo by Jules Clark | Getty Images

Separation anxiety (SA), also known as separation-related distress, is one of the most common behavioral problems in pet dogs with some estimates stating that one in four dogs will suffer from separation anxiety during their lifetime.

 

 

What is Separation Anxiety in Dogs?

Separation anxiety occurs when a dog is unable to cope with separation from their human caregiver or canine companion.  It can range in severity from relatively mild through to extreme.

According to a recent study by Beaver (2024) up to 85.9% of dogs displayed moderate to serious separation-related behaviors. This finding demonstrates the emotional impact isolation can have on dogs, many of whom are ill equipped to cope with separation.

Many dog owners don’t realize that the ability to cope with separation from attachment figures is a learned behavior and a skill we must gradually teach our dogs, just like we teach it to our babies and young children.

How To Recognize Separation Anxiety in Your Dog

There are a number of signs to look for which could indicate your dog is experiencing separation anxiety. In mild cases, the signs might be quite subtle and easily missed whereas in moderate to extreme cases, the signs will be very obvious. 

Signs of separation anxiety include:

  • Panting
  • Pacing
  • Drooling
  • Increased heart rate
  • Excessive whining or barking
  • Not eating when alone
  • Destructive scratching and/or chewing
  • Trembling
  • Sweaty paws
  • House soiling
  • Attempting to escape from the home or backyard

If you notice any of these signs in your dog when she is left alone it’s important to make an appointment with your vet to confirm a separation anxiety diagnosis or rule it out. Some signs of separation anxiety, such as excessive barking, destructive chewing and attempting to escape the home, can be the result of boredom or even linked to a medical issue.

Common Triggers for Separation Anxiety in Dogs

Separation anxiety can be triggered by several different events or circumstances which are typically related to a change to the normal routine. These can include:

  • Going to a new home as a puppy
  • Being left alone for the first time
  • Being surrendered to an animal shelter
  • Being adopted from an animal shelter
  • Moving house
  • Changes to the owners work schedule
  • A family member moving out
  • The owner traveling
  • Staying at a boarding kennel (especially for the first time)
  • A death in the family

Curing Dog Separation Anxiety Quickly

Most dog owners want to know how to cure separation anxiety quickly. However, the reality is that there are no quick fixes. Overcoming separation anxiety takes time, patience, and consistency in terms of management and training.

Prevention is the best cure. Teaching your puppy how to cope with separation gradually and to associate it with positive experiences will help prevent them from developing separation anxiety. However, if your dog already has separation anxiety, you can still help them overcome it.

How To Help a Dog with Separation Anxiety

The first step to helping a dog with separation anxiety is to make an appointment with your vet or a qualified behaviorist. They will determine the severity of the separation anxiety, whether anti-anxiety medication is recommended for successful treatment, and provide you with a training and management plan to work to resolve the separation anxiety.

When separation anxiety is on the moderate to extreme end of the scale, medication can be very beneficial to help facilitate behavior modification. This is because the medication can reduce the anxiety enough to allow learning to occur. Without it, behavior modification may not be successful as highly anxious dogs are often unable to learn and retain information.

Dog Separation Anxiety Training

There are a number of training exercises that can be done to help a dog with separation anxiety. Let’s look at how dog separation anxiety training looks in both the short and long term.

Short term management and training

Here are some short-term management and training techniques that can help to reduce separation anxiety:

  • Avoid leaving your dog home alone. The aim is to avoid any further negative experiences with being left alone while simultaneously working to teach your dog to associate separation with positive experiences.
  • Start to teach your dog that being separated from you within the home can be a pleasurable experience. You can do this using a sit-stay exercise where you ask your dog to sit, then say “stay”. Next, take a step away, wait three seconds and step back toward your dog. If they maintained the sit, say “good girl/boy” and immediately reward with a high value treat. Repeat several times. If your dog succeeds and does not break the stay gradually increase the distance and duration that you move away from them, building up so that you can move out of sight for longer periods of time. It’s important that you reward them every time they succeed. If at any point they break the stay it means your dog is not coping at that level. Go back to the previous step at which they were successful and continue to build from there. Practice in different rooms of the home and in the backyard. With time and consistency your dog will learn that being separated from you can be a positive experience.
  • Feed your dog their meals in a room or area away from you. This also teaches them that being separated from you can be a pleasant experience as they are associating separation with their meal (a primary reinforcer). You can also give them high value chew treats, a lick mat, or treat puzzle toys during the day to help them learn associate separation with pleasurable experiences (eating high value treats).

Long term management and training

Here are some management and training exercises to work on in the long term to build your dog’s ability to cope with separation:

  • Gradual desensitization and counter-conditioning. Begin to desensitize your dog to separations by leaving the home for periods of time that are short enough not to trigger anxiety (e.g. 1 to 2 minutes). Immediately before you leave, give your dog a high value and long-lasting chew treat, puzzle toy, or lick mat. Repeat several times per day and gradually increase the time of separation if your dog is coping at the previous level.
  • Avoid continually leaving for longer and longer periods of time. Rather, ensure you mix it up with shorter separations in between to prevent your dog anticipating longer separations and potentially feeling anxious in response.
  • Reduce the contrast between when you’re home (and your dog is happiest) and when you’re away (and your dog is not as happy) by not making a fuss when you come and go. A casual goodbye when you leave and hello when you get home, rather than over-exuberant goodbyes and greetings, will help your dog learn that you coming and going is not a big deal.

Conclusion

Separation anxiety is a common behavioral problem in dogs. The ability to cope with separation from attachment figures is a learned behavior and there are no quick fixes.  As a social species, dogs are not born knowing how to be on their own, just like human children. It’s our responsibility to teach our dogs how to cope with separation using a combination of good management and training. Desensitization and counter-conditioning to separation can teach dogs to tolerate separation gradually. In severe cases, anti-anxiety medication may be prescribed to facilitate behavior modification.

What Traits Make the Best Family Dogs?

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The best family dogs are a product of training and management.
While the best family dogs may start with the right traits, training, socialization, and management are essential. Educating family members of all ages about how to properly handle a dog is also extremely important. Credit: Compassionate Eye Foundation/Steven Errico | Getty Images

Though social media posts, movies, and books may portray magical stories of children and dogs growing up together, parents must manage a high-stakes relationship. One simple misstep could end up with your child in the emergency room and your dog with a bite history that could cost them their life.

Committing to a dog should never be taken lightly; before you do, ask yourself some critical questions about your lifestyle. Though there are no guarantees, dogs with certain traits may show promise to be good family dogs with the proper training and care.

Traits to Look For to Find the Best Family Dogs

Experts say the best family dogs are generally confident, resilient, outgoing, and social, with phenomenal temperaments.

“Confident dogs are not afraid to explore new things, and they’re friendly with people and other animals,” says Elysia Ostrander, a CPDT-KA certified trainer and co-owner of Pawsitive Families Education and Training.

But don’t confuse confidence with reactivity; you don’t want a dog that barks at people or other dogs. Look for a pooch that accepts new people and rolls with change. If you have children, there will likely be kids zipping around your house, toys that make weird noises, and people coming in and out.

“The dog should have resiliency, the ability to recover from scary events quickly,” Ostrander says. “When something unexpected happens, they can shake it off and return to their friendly, happy selves.”

A timid dog may not be the best fit for an active family.

“When you encounter a dog or puppy huddled in a corner, appearing frightened or hesitant to approach—those are the moments that tug at our heartstrings—we often think, ‘What a sad, sweet dog in need of love.’ However, that dog may be more likely to feel overwhelmed in a lively family environment,” says Jenny Wyffels, a CPDT-KA and CBCC-KA certified dog trainer and owner of Cooperative Canine Concepts.

Wyffels suggests looking for dogs that come toward you, eager to sniff, interact, and enjoy being touched. “If I take a few steps back and they follow me for more attention, unphased by quick movements or sudden noises, those are likely better candidates to consider,” she says.

Assess Your Family’s Traits

Before considering a dog for your family, assess your household’s traits and lifestyle.

Are you ready for a dog? What kind of breed would fit well? Do you have the time, energy, and money to invest in a canine companion? It’s a 12- to 15-year commitment to another family member who might shed.

“Raising and owning a dog is an extremely time-consuming endeavor,” says Dr. Blake Gibson, DVM, a veterinarian with Texas Veterinary Behavior Services and resident of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. “It is like having another child, and you cannot skimp.”

Calculate how long the dog would be home alone each day. Working full-time and spending your afternoons and weekends driving kids to soccer games might not leave much time for a pup. Be honest with yourself and your children.

If a pooch doesn’t get enough exercise, training, and companionship, they can develop behavioral issues. Dogs are social animals and need contact with humans and other dogs.

“You have to step up for the dog even if you are busy, tired, sick, or weary; their physical and mental needs can’t be ignored,” says Dr. Gibson. “If you can’t meet the dog’s needs, it is especially inhumane to confine the dog to a crate or put them out in the yard.”

Another pivotal question: Are you dedicated to overseeing the relationship between your kids and a dog? Young children and dogs need constant supervision and management. “The stakes are really high when we’re talking about dogs and kids,” Ostrander says.

It takes a split second for something to happen—a toddler innocently falls on a dog, pulls their tail, or takes their toy; it could surprise the dog and result in a bite that causes permanent disfigurement to your child and a bite record that could end with your dog being euthanized.

Besides time, also plan for the financial aspect of having a dog. Veterinary care, training, grooming, food, and toys add up. An unexpected animal emergency bill could cost thousands of dollars.

“It is realistic to expect a pet to become ill at some point,” Dr. Gibson says. “Being prepared for these events can protect your pet’s health and prevent having to make heartbreaking decisions.”

If you can provide the proper enrichment, supervision, and financial support for a dog, reflect on your household members’ ages, interests, and activity levels to help determine the best dog for your family.

Are you an on-the-go crew that likes to walk, hike, and swim? You may want a more energetic dog. Do you have kids? A young puppy or large dog might knock them over.

Best Dogs For Kids

So, what are the best dogs for kids?

“My answer is always, ‘The dog that the parents want,'” Ostrander says. “The adults are the ones responsible for the family. No matter what dog you bring home, your kids will be excited and love them. Don’t allow your children to sway your decision.”

Should you get a puppy or an adult dog?

Puppies are like having a newborn child. They need constant care, multiple veterinary visits, and potty training—which means running outside with them every couple of hours. Most pups go through that “baby Velociraptor” stage.

“They’re super cute and cuddly when they come home, then a few weeks later, you’ve got kids running and screaming because the puppy is nipping at their ankles,” Ostrander says. “A puppy is a ton of work. People need to be ready for that challenge.”

Another puppy pitfall is there’s no guarantee how they will act when they’re older.

“We don’t have reliable temperament tests to administer to a puppy and predict how that dog will turn out as an adult,” Dr. Gibson says. “The only exception to this is anxiety—anxious puppies are likely to become anxious adult dogs.”

A dog over the age of two years may give you a better idea of their personality.

“The nice thing about an adult dog is a lot of times it’s what you see is what you get,” Ostrander says. “They’ve established who they are. Look for one that isn’t scared by the kids, is super excited to see you, and has wiggly, loose body language.”

What’s the best way to find a family dog? And what are the best breeds to consider?

Best Family Dog Breeds

There’s no certainty that a dog of any breed will be the perfect match for your family. Each pooch is their own unique being. “It truly does just come down to a study of one,” Wyffels says.

Typically, Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and Brittany Spaniels are known for having traits that may make them among the best family dog breeds.

“There is a huge amount of variability in behavior even between individuals of the same breed,” Dr. Gibson says. “This makes giving blanket recommendations like this difficult. As a very broad generalization, I do feel that many of the herding breeds have a harder time in homes with children. Their herding behavior (mouthing and chasing) often gets them into trouble with younger children.”

Even a “mutt” may fit your family well. “We see a lot of mixed breed dogs that have phenomenal temperaments that come from shelters,” Wyffels says.

Is a shelter, rescue group, or breeder the best place to find a family dog?

Let’s start with rescues and shelters; many groups and facilities are overflowing and overwhelmed with puppies and dogs. Thousands are euthanized each year to make space in overcrowded facilities.

Besides saving a life by adopting, there are some other potential benefits.

If a puppy or dog lives in a foster home, you can get key information about a pooch’s personality, disposition, and quirks by speaking to the foster family. Ask if the dog has ever been around or lives with kids.

“A lot of times, the shelter staff or the foster home will know so much about the dog,” Ostrander says. “If the dog previously lived with kids and did well with them, that’s great. If the dog lived with kids and didn’t do so well, that’s not the right dog for you. Listen to what they say because they know that dog the best.”

While you’re most likely to find an adult dog by adopting, sometimes breeders sell adults no longer used for breeding or dogs that were returned, but most offer puppies for sale.

“There’s good breeders and bad breeders,” Ostrander says. “Interview your breeder and understand what their intention was. A Golden Retriever from a working and hunting line differs greatly from a Golden Retriever bred to be a good family dog.”

Ethical breeders will answer all your questions and help you by socializing and training the pup. If a dog doesn’t work out, a good breeder will take them back so they don’t end up in a shelter.

“I look for breeders that will place puppies,” Ostrander says. “So, it’s not, ‘Come pick your puppy.’ It’s ‘Oh, you have kids; we want to make sure the puppy is a good fit for you.’ A responsible breeder supports families.”

Lifelong Training and Management

If you’ve decided a new furry family member is in your future, lifelong training and management are crucial.

“I tell people to start training their kids before the dog comes home,” Ostrander says. “Set expectations of what that life will look like so there are clear rules and boundaries.”

Plan where to put baby gates, crates, dog beds, and toys. Assign everyone a role and responsibility. Hire a professional trainer or sign up for group classes immediately. (Find pain and force-free, positive reinforcement programs.)

Even if you think you know it all, each dog has different quirks. Training can be life-changing, even lifesaving.

“At the end of the day, I’m a people trainer—I’m training you to train your dog,” Ostrander says. “I get the kids involved. Then, I teach the parents to watch a dog’s body language to see if there are signs that the dog is uncomfortable.”

Dogs often give warnings like yawning or licking their lips if they’re tense, something adults should watch to prevent a situation from escalating. No dog should ever be considered bite-proof.

Training is a lifelong process, so after your dog graduates from behavior classes, continue their training sessions for a few minutes daily. Even service dogs lose some of their skills without practice. The better behaved your dog is, the more likely they will be welcomed at soccer games, outings, and social gatherings with you.

Once you find a dog you believe fits your family perfectly, remember that patience and empathy are key to a loving, successful, and harmonious relationship.

“Like children, caring for a dog will involve moments of stress, setbacks to some of your efforts, or unexpected changes,” Dr. Gibson says. “A dog is a living being with their own needs and emotions. There will always be at least some balance between the good and the bad, but your perspective and effort determine whether it all is worth it.”

Spay Surgery Is Not Required to Stop Canine Reproduction

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Puppy litter can be prevented, even when spay or neutering isn't an option.
Yet another “accidental” litter of unwanted puppies at my local shelter. Far more are arriving than the shelter can find homes for—and all the other shelters in our area are in the same boat.

I don’t think I could have survived being a shelter worker in the 1970s, when the population of dogs (and cats) getting euthanized annually in American shelters was highest. The Humane Society of the U.S. estimated that about 13.5 million animals were euthanized in the U.S. in 1973; in recent years, that number has hovered under 3 million—still too many, but far fewer than when I was a child.

However, while estimated numbers for 2023 and 2024 won’t be available for another year or two, there is plenty of anecdotal evidence that the number of euthanized pets will be far higher than the lowest historic counts. There have been a number of theories floated for this increase, from the COVID-era shortage of veterinary appointments available for spay/neuter surgery (both caused by mandatory animal hospital closures as well as the COVID-prompted retirement of many veterinarians and veterinary staff), to steep increases in the price of spay/neuter surgery (caused by both a shortage of vets and veterinary staff and high demand).

Though the causes are not entirely clear, the fact that there has been a sharp rise in the number of unwanted dogs (in particular) is evident to anyone involved in sheltering or rescue. Shelters and rescues are packed beyond capacity with adult and adolescent dogs and endless waves of puppies keep coming in year-round.

I can’t count the times that someone who had an unplanned litter of puppies told me, “It’s OK, I have homes lined up for all of the puppies!” This makes me crazy, because I know that when people are given a free puppy, very few of them follow through and obtain spay/neuter surgery; that unplanned puppy is about to go out and make a bunch more.

In online forums for community members, I often see posts from people who are seeking information about lower-cost spay/neuter surgery for their dogs—and just as often, looking to give away free puppies. I live in an economically disadvantaged town in a lower-income county, so I think I see more of this than my friends in more affluent parts of California, but I always wonder: Why can’t they just keep their dogs apart?

I know that the allure of a female dog in heat is strong, and that male dogs will do anything in their power to reach them. But surely anyone can procure a secure crate for their female dog, and back it up with a closed door or two for as many weeks as needed? How long is this? If you have an intact female dog, you had better find out! See “How Long Are Dogs in Heat.”

In a household with intact male and female dogs, what about making the neutering of the male dogs a priority? Surgery for males costs much less than females. If your own male dogs are neutered, you just have to secure your female dog indoors at home (so she’s not accosted by other intact males in the neighborhood).

Look into every voucher program or low-income assistance program in your community. Call your local animal shelter and ask for their recommendations on lower-cost spay/neuter. Call every veterinarian in your area and compare costs, asking if they offer any lower-cost appointments.

If you know someone with an intact female dog, please help them learn about how to prevent their dog’s pregnancy, point them toward a low-cost spay/neuter clinic, or do a little fundraising in your immediate social circle to help surgery happen sooner than later. Slowing the number of healthy dogs being euthanized in U.S. shelters depends on everyone doing what they can to prevent more unwanted litters from being conceived.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”