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WDJ’s 2025 Approved Dry Dog Foods: Search Over 1,100 Varieties

By
Nancy Kerns
-
43
An array of dry dog food displayed in the aisle of a local pet store.
We’re excited about the possibilities of Whole Dog Journal's searchable database of dry dog foods, and hope you find it to be helpful for finding good foods for your dogs.
We’re excited to now present information about every single one of the dry dog foods made by the companies on our “Approved Foods” list, including their complete ingredients lists. This feature is available only to our paid subscribers. Even more exciting: This is a searchable database. You can use filters to find foods that meet many specific needs for different dogs.
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What’s the Best Dry Dog Food? 2025’s Top Picks in 8 Categories

By
Nancy Kerns
-
12
best dry dog food
Though dogs have an amazing ability to do just fine if they eat enough calories, in order for your dog to thrive, he should be eating a diet with an appropriate amount of macronutrients (protein, fat, and carbohydrates) and micronutrients (vitamins and minerals). The first step in selecting a food is making sure the candidate product is formulated for your dog’s life stage. Photo credit: mjrodafotografia | Getty Images

When it’s time to buy food for your dog, how do you choose? Do you just look for something you’ve heard of before? Go with whatever they were feeding at the shelter or breeder? Shop by price? Ask your veterinarian?

Any of those selection methods might result in a good choice—or you could end up with a wildly inappropriate diet for your dog. Choosing a dog food is not a one-size-fits-all proposition! No food is “best” for all dogs; there’s not even a single pet food company whose products are ideal for all dogs!

Here’s how we choose foods—and our top picks for different types of dogs or situations. We hope that your search can be facilitated by the process we used to select our top recommended dry dog foods (and nearly 20 runners up) in eight different categories.

Start With Our Approved Dry Dog Foods List

You’re likely aware that there are hundreds of dog food companies and thousands of foods to choose from—and the vast majority are not, in our opinion, all that great. To winnow down the contenders, we’ve created a list of companies that make the kind of foods we like: “WDJ’s Approved Dry Dog Foods”. When we go shopping, we consider only foods from companies on that list.

Next, we look at the individual products made by these companies. We’ve made a spreadsheet for each product they offer and entered every bit of information about them: their complete list of ingredients, amount of protein and fat they contain, whether they are formulated for adult maintenance or can be fed to growing puppies—and if so, whether or not they can be fed to large-breed puppies, who shouldn’t consume high levels of calcium and phosphorus.

By using the spreadsheet, we can scan, sort, and compare ingredient lists. We start our search for any type of dog food by analyzing the candidates’ ingredients, looking for attributes of quality—as well as traits that tend to indicate low-quality foods.

Finally, to select the best candidates for foods for specific dogs, dogs whose needs are typical of a certain type (such as highly active dogs, fat dogs, large-breed puppies, etc.), or dogs who belong to humans with budgetary limitations or ethical qualms about buying a meat-based diet, we use more refined criteria. We’ll describe those criteria within each category of foods.
SUBSCRIBER ONLY: The Complete List of Whole Dog Journal’s 2025 Approved Dry Dog Foods

All Life Stages Dry Dog Food/Puppy Food

By law, every dog food label bears a tiny statement that tells consumers whether the product is “complete and balanced” (contains all the nutrients a dog needs in appropriate amounts). This is known as the nutritional adequacy statement or the AAFCO statement, as it references the Association of American Feed Control Officials, who developed a set of nutritional standards for puppies and pregnant or nursing females (called “growth and reproduction”), and a separate set for adult dogs (“adult maintenance”).

If the food has been formulated to meet the needs of dogs in a growth or reproduction phase, the AAFCO statement may reference “growth,” “growth and reproduction,” or “dogs of all life stages.” Growing, pregnant, and nursing dogs need more protein, fat, calcium, phosphorus, and several other minerals than adult dogs—but it’s fine for adult dogs to consume foods with these higher nutrient levels; thus the “all life stages” label.

Whether we’re looking for a food for a growing puppy or a reasonably active adult dog, we look among prospects that have moderate levels of protein. The minimum percentage of protein for growth is 20% “as fed” (how it’s listed on product labels). There is no maximum dictated by the AAFCO dog food nutrient profiles, but few foods exceed 40% protein as fed, so we’d consider 30% protein (as fed) to be moderate; we look for foods with protein levels around that number.

If the food contains supplements such as probiotics, taurine, or glycosaminoglycans (i.e., glucosamine, chondroitin), we want to see them listed on the guaranteed analysis, indicating they are present in verifiably beneficial quantities, not just token window dressing.

Whether we are shopping for a food for a puppy or adult dog, our preference is always for a product with meat and/or a meat meal in the top two ingredients; more meats in the top five or so spots on the ingredients list are even better. We also prefer legumes (such as peas, chickpeas, and lentils) to be used only in minor roles (below the 5th or 6th position on the ingredients list).

Dry Dog Foods for “Adult Maintenance”

Adult maintenance foods often contain lower levels of protein and fat than foods that are formulated to meet the needs of puppies and nursing or pregnant mothers. But, again, AAFCO has not issued maximum levels of fat or protein for any life stages, and some foods formulated for adult maintenance may contain more fat and protein than some foods for all life stages. So, when shopping for an adult maintenance food, take a peek at the protein and fat levels in any food you consider to make sure the amounts are appropriate for your dog. Less-active or overweight adult dogs don’t need foods with super high levels of protein or fat.

If you are unsure about what level of fat is appropriate for your dog, compare the caloric content of the foods you are considering. Fat contains more than twice the calories (9 per gram) of protein and carbohydrates, which each contain 4 calories per gram.

Low Fat Dry Dog Foods

The legal minimum amount of crude fat in a dry adult maintenance food is 4.95% (“as fed,” a term that means this percentage is expressed for the form of food that is in the package); for puppies, the minimum is 7.65% (as fed). In this category, we selected foods with fairly low (but not the lowest) amounts of fat for adult dogs; none of our selections would be appropriate, however, for growing puppies. The dogs who are most in need of low-fat foods are those who are inactive and sedentary, have diabetes, are overweight, have pancreatitis, or are of a breed that is genetically predisposed to pancreatitis.

Remember that dry dog foods contain protein, fat, and carbohydrates; you can’t make a kibble without carbs! When you reduce the amount of any one of those three macronutrients, one or both of the other two will rise—so some lower-fat foods will contain increased levels of protein, some will contain increased levels of carbohydrates, and some will contain increased levels of both. This is where, as always, you need to take your own dog’s unique needs into account. Does he do better on higher-protein or higher-carb foods?

Our top picks in low-fat foods reflect products that take a balanced tack, with increased amounts of protein and carbs. We didn’t select the foods with the very lowest amounts of fat that are on our Approved Dry Dog Foods list. If your dog has suffered one or more episodes of pancreatitis, you may wish to look among those products with the very lowest possible fat levels.

High Protein Dry Dog Food

To repeat, there are no established maximum values for protein in dog food. Dogs can eat and thrive on food that contains twice (or even more) than the minimum amounts of protein they require. This amount of protein is not necessary, however, and foods with high protein levels are much more expensive than lower-protein foods. That said, some dogs absolutely do better on high-protein foods than they do on foods with more moderate or lower protein levels. Particularly active dogs, fit senior dogs, and canine athletes—particularly dogs who are used in endurance or cold-weather activities—may do better on high protein foods.

We don’t generally select foods with the very highest levels of protein for our favorites; we chose foods that were among the highest 20% or so.

Limited Ingredient Dry Dog Food

There isn’t a commonly agreed-upon definition of limited-ingredient dog foods. Some manufacturers will use just five or six major ingredients (the sources of protein, fat, and carbs) in their limited-ingredient foods, while others will contain 10, 12, or more.

Usually, those of us who are considering a limited-ingredient diet are either feeding a dog who is sensitive to either known or as-yet unknown ingredients, trying to prevent aggravating a hypersensitive (allergic) response, or trying to identify which ingredients the dog can digest without triggering an adverse response. The more ingredients a food has, the harder it is to identify exactly which ingredient is troubling the dog—so our bias in selecting favorites in this category is for foods with as few major ingredients as possible.

Grain-Free Dry Dog Food

In our opinion, grain-free foods became far too popular (and for no particular reason!), which led pet food makers to search for every non-grain carbohydrate source they could find (because, again, you can’t make a kibble without carbs). Potatoes, sweet potatoes, and legumes (peas, lentils, chickpeas, and beans) were the most popular ingredients pressed into service to meet the demand for grain-free foods.

In 2018, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration started a firestorm of controversy by publishing a preliminary advisory warning of a possible link between grain-free foods and the incidence of canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM). Despite much study, that link has not been proven, though a link between higher rates of DCM and foods with high inclusions of legumes is still suspected. Today, we feel confident that there is no link between the broad category of “grain-free foods” and canine DCM, and that even foods with a high legume inclusion are safe for dogs as long as their maker adds adequate amounts of taurine and/or its metabolic precursors, methionine and cysteine.

Pet food makers like the higher inclusion of legumes because they can serve double duty as a carbohydrate source as well as a source of protein that is less expensive than animal protein. But the amino acid profile of animal proteins suit dogs better than plant-based proteins. So we feel most comfortable recommending grain-free foods only when they contain a relatively low inclusion of legumes, and for dogs who have a demonstrated lack of ability to thrive on foods that contain grain.

Budget Dry Dog Foods

Our “budget” foods are more expensive than the cheapest foods you can find, but that’s because the cheapest foods you can buy would be disqualified from our approved foods list by several criteria.

The least expensive foods usually use plant proteins (such as corn and peas) rather than animal proteins as their main protein sources. They often contain unnamed animal protein and fat sources (identified on the ingredients list only as “meat,” “meat meal,” or “meat and bone meal,” and “animal fat”)—or just “animal by-products or “poultry by-products.” And, finally, the least expensive foods usually contain highly processed grain by-products—waste from the human food industry. We just can’t recommend those foods.

Dry Dog Foods Containing Alternative Proteins

While they are quite rare, some dogs are hypersensitive (allergic) to all or most animal protein sources. Also, many people have ethical, moral, and/or environmental objections to raising and killing animals to feed their dogs. Fortunately for individuals of both kinds, there is an increasing number of complete diets for dogs that contain no “dead animal” sources of protein.

We’re aware of fewer than 10 foods that fit in this category. Some are vegetarian, some are vegan, and some are . . . well, we’re not quite sure what to call products that use insect sources of protein!

Note that all of these meat-free foods are formulated for adult maintenance only; none are appropriate for puppies.

Best Dry Dog Food by Category

Best All Life Stages

Best Dry Dog Food for Adult Maintenance

Best Lower-Fat Dog Food

Best High Protein Dog Food

Best Limited Ingredient Dog Food

Best Grain-Free Dog Food

Best Budget Dog Food

Best Alternative Protein Dog Food

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: The Complete List of Whole Dog Journal’s 2025 Approved Dry Dog Foods

Best All Life Stages Dry Dog Food

Wellness Core Digestive Health Puppy Chicken & Brown Rice

Things we like:

  • Three meats in the first six ingredients
  • Inclusion of marine micro-algae oil, a vegan source of EPA and DHA
  • Many nutrients on the guaranteed analysis, including EPA and DHA (especially beneficial for puppies) and taurine

First 10 ingredients: Deboned chicken, chicken meal, brown rice, barley, oatmeal, turkey meal, dried plain beet pulp, chicken fat, flaxseed, pumpkin

Protein: Min 31%

Fat: Min 15.5%

Calories: 421 Kcal/cup

Cost: $3.15/lb

Runners up:

  • Dr. Gary’s Puppy Recipe
  • Tender & True Small Breed Organic Turkey & Oats Recipe
  • The Honest Kitchen Whole Grain Chicken Clusters for Puppies

Best Adult Maintenance Dry Dog Food

Stella & Chewy’s Superblends Raw Blend Whitefish & Salmon Recipe

Things we like:

  • Three meats in the first six ingredients
  • Many extra nutrients on the guaranteed analysis, glucosamine, chondroitin, taurine, probiotics
  • Baked food, not extruded

First 10 ingredients: Whitefish, whitefish meal, oatmeal, barley, sunflower oil, salmon, flaxseed, tomato pomace, cod, quinoa

Protein: Min 27%

Fat: 14%

Calories: 453 Kcal/cup

Cost: $2.77/lb

Runners up:

  • Annamaet Original Ultra Chicken Meal & Brown Rice Formula
  • Nulo MedalSeries Ancient Grains Adult Beef, Barley, & Lamb Recipe
  • The Honest Kitchen Whole Grain Chicken Clusters

Best Lower-Fat Dry Dog Food

Chicken Soup for the Soul Classic Weight Care Dry Dog Food, Brown Rice, Chicken, & Turkey Recipe

Things we like:

  • Maximum % of fat also listed on guaranteed analysis
  • Though meat is not first on ingredients list, two fresh meats and two meat meals immediately follow brown rice (2nd–5th)
  • Peas play a supportive role, but not too high on ingredients list (7th)

First 10 ingredients: Whole grain brown rice, chicken, turkey, chicken meal, turkey meal, cracked pearled barley, peas, oatmeal, white rice, faba beans

Protein: Min 21%

Fat: Min 6%, Max 9%

Calories: 328 Kcal/cup

Runners up:

  • Blackwood Lean Senior Chicken Meal with Ancient Grains (Min 6.5% fat)
  • Eagle Pack Reduced Fat (Min 6% fat)
  • Grandma Mae’s Low Fat Entrée (Min 7% fat)

Best High Protein Dry Dog Food

Rawz Meal-Free Dehydrated Chicken, Turkey, & Chicken Recipe

Things we like:

  • Ingredients list starts with two dehydrated meats, then two meats, then three organ meats
  • Despite high protein, moderate fat level (12%)
  • Taurine added to formula

First 10 ingredients:  Dehydrated chicken, dehydrated deboned chicken, chicken, turkey, chicken liver, turkey liver, turkey heart, pea starch, dried peas, tapioca starch

Protein: Min 40%

Fat: Min 12%

Calories: 462 Kcal/cup

Cost: $6.65/lb

Runners up:

  • Orijen Amazing Grains Fit & Trim (U.S. Formula) (42% protein)
  • Wellness Core+Wholesome Grains Puppy (37% protein)

Best Limited Ingredient Dry Dog Food

Essence LIR Ocean Recipe

Things we like:

  • Novel protein from two species of fish (whitefish and herring) may benefit dogs with allergies to more common proteins
  • Quinoa is also a novel carb source for many dogs
  • First 10 ingredients: Whitefish, herring, whitefish meal, herring meal, quinoa, pumpkin, olive oil, dicalcium phosphate, natural whitefish flavor, calcium carbonate

Protein: Min 35%

Fat: Min 17%

Calories: 429 Kcal/cup

Cost: $4.54/lb

Runners up:

  • Earthborn Holistic Venture Turkey Meal & Pumpkin
  • Natural Balance Limited Ingredient Chicken & Brown Rice Recipe

Best Grain-Free Dry Dog Food

Petcurean Go! Solutions Carnivore Grain Free Chicken, Turkey + Duck Senior Recipe

Things we like:

  • Six meats and meat meals in the first six spots on the ingredients list
  • Several legumes, but low on ingredient list (even combined, not present in an excessive amount)
  • Added taurine

First 10 ingredients: Chicken meal, turkey meal, salmon meal, deboned chicken, deboned turkey, deboned trout, potatoes, peas, tapioca, lentils

Protein: Min 32%

Fat: Min 14%

Calories: 394 Kcal/cup

Cost: $3.68/lb

Runners up:

  • Farmina N&D Brown Lamb, Norwegian Kelp, & Carrot Recipe
  • Halo Elevate Grain-Free Red Meat Recipe Adult

Best Budget Dry Food

Triumph Wild Spirit Chicken & Brown Rice Recipe

Things we like:

  • Deboned meat (a lower-ash ingredient) and a meat meal 1st and 2nd on ingredients
  • Many extra nutrients (including probiotics) on the guaranteed analysis

First 10 ingredients: Deboned chicken, chicken meal, ground brown rice, pearled barley, oat groats, rice bran, chicken fat, dried plain beet pulp, flaxseed meal, natural chicken flavor

Protein: Min 25%

Fat: Min 15%

Calories: 362 Kcal/cup

Cost: $2.33/lb

Runners up:

  • Chicken Soup for the Soul Classic Adult Dry Dog Food Chicken, Turkey, & Brown Rice Recipe ($1.96/lb)
  • Wellness Complete Health Deboned Chicken & Oatmeal ($2.31/lb)

Best Alternative Proteins Dry Dog Food

Jiminy’s Good Grub

Things we like:

  • Eco-friendly, humane, sustainable formula
  • Grub protein is highly digestible and prebiotic (helps feed beneficial bacteria in the gut)
  • Baked, not extruded

First 10 ingredients: Dried black soldier fly larvae, oats, dried yeast, sweet potato, potato protein, sunflower oil, brown rice, dried plain beet pulp, dicalcium phosphate, natural vegetable flavor

Protein: Min 28%

Fat: Min 14%

Calories: 426 Kcal/cup

Cost: $4.12/lb

Runners up:

  • Natural Balance Vegetarian Recipe (protein sources are peas and potato protein)
  • Open Farm Kind Earth Premium Insect Kibble Recipe (protein sources are black soldier fly larvae and dried yeast)

Raw Bones for Dogs

By
Kim Campbell Thornton
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0
Raw bones for dogs can be a tasty treat. However, they can also cause dental injuries and gastric obstructions.
There are pros and cons to giving your dog raw bones. Along with sourcing fresh, properly-sized, uncooked bones, consider your individual dog and the potential health risks before letting her have one. Credit: mikedabell | Getty Images

People have been giving raw meaty bones to dogs ever since the two species teamed up as hunters and companions. In the 20th century, the convenience of commercial canned food and kibble took precedence in the canine diet, but many people continue to give raw bones for recreational chewing, dental benefits, or as part of a raw diet.

However, there’s disagreement on whether it’s safe or beneficial to give raw bones to dogs. Veterinarians generally recommend against them, having treated dogs with broken teeth, obstructions or intestinal perforations related to chewing or ingesting bones. Most owners who give them cite dental and mental benefits. Here’s what to consider about raw bones for dogs.

Pros of Raw Bones for Dogs

Chewing on bones can do a great job of removing plaque and tartar off teeth, keeping fangs gleaming and breath fresh. That’s more than a cosmetic benefit. Plaque is a soft biofilm and makes a cozy home base for bacteria to attack the gums, inflaming them and causing damage to periodontal tissues. The mouth is the gateway to the rest of the body, and studies have established a statistically significant association between periodontal disease and cardiac, kidney, and liver disease in dogs.

Dog lovers who give bones say chewing aids dental health and reduces the necessity for professional veterinary cleanings, which can be expensive. Chewing bones also provides a mental and physical workout for dogs, especially dogs who are “busy” and food-oriented.

Cindy Steinle has American Bulldogs, notorious for poor dental health. Chewing marrow bones keeps her dogs’ teeth clean and their minds occupied, she says.

Risks of Eating Bones

Veterinarians, who see the different ways bones can go wrong, usually aren’t fans.

“I’m sure for every thousand dogs that get those bones, there’s only one or two that have a problem, but it’s an avoidable problem,” says Tony Johnson, DVM, DACVECC, an emergency and critical care specialist in Chicago.

Physical hazards include shards that can poke into the mouth or tongue or pierce the esophagus, cause choking, or perforate or obstruct the stomach or intestines. Broken teeth and constipation are additional concerns. And there’s no way to predict if or when a dog will have a problem with bones.

Collie owner Rosemary George used to give her dogs lamb femurs, but the approach of Hurricane Sandy in 2012 coincided with one of her dogs exhibiting worrisome signs of what appeared to be bloat or an intestinal blockage. “Because everything was shut down in advance of the hurricane, we had to go to an emergency clinic that had a generator in case power was lost,” she says. “Everything ended up all right in the end. It wasn’t bloat and they were able to clear the blockage of bone fragments without surgery, but I was unable to pick him up for two days because of the hurricane and its aftermath. That turned out to be a very, very expensive lamb femur.”

Having something to chew is certainly important, says Ross Massimiano, DVM. “The chewing action can help keep teeth cleaner. I think of chewing as brushing, in a way, for dogs. Something to chew is important to have.”

He’d just prefer that it not be a natural bone. Besides the aforementioned risks, he worries about environmental contamination in homes with children, women who are pregnant, or individuals who are immunocompromised.

The increasing incidence of avian influenza (H5N1) in cattle and cats also has him concerned about canine exposure to raw meaty beef bones. While currently cats—both domestic and wild—are at far greater risk of avian influenza than dogs, Dr. Massimiano worries that a random mutation could affect dogs as well.

Choosing Raw Bones for Dogs

When giving bones, take into account the dog’s temperament, size, health, and lifestyle. Here’s what to know about choosing the right ones for your dog and where to get them.

The first thing to consider is how your dog eats. Gulpers may simply not do well with bones. They’re not going to get the dental or meditative benefits and may be more prone to choking.

Bones should be larger than the dog’s mouth so there’s no possibility of the dog swallowing them. Pay attention to how much the dog gnaws away over time and toss them when they get too small.

Avoid giving bones to dogs who are immunocompromised. That means very young dogs, who don’t have fully developed immune systems; dogs undergoing chemotherapy or steroid treatment or with chronic health conditions; and senior or geriatric dogs, who may have weakened immune systems or poor dental health.

Give recreational bones separately from meals and only when you’re able to consciously supervise chewing. Take them up after about 10 minutes (before you get bored), clean them, and freeze until the next use.

Types of dog bones that generally come to mind for recreational chewing are marrow and knuckle bones, especially if they still have attached meat, cartilage, fat, and connective tissue. They are sometimes referred to as “wreck bones,” though, for the broken teeth and other injuries they can cause.

Labrador owner Linda Rehkopf used to give her dogs raw marrow bones. Then one day her dog Story flipped a marrow bone over her bottom canines and around her jaw, like a donut. At the veterinary clinic, she put Story in a stand-stay and gave a “watch me” cue while the veterinarian chipped away at the bone with a bolt cutter. Afterward, the veterinarian advised no longer giving marrow bones unless they were longer than four inches.

If they’re the right size and the dog is supervised while chewing, marrow bones have some advantages. “They maintain scent and flavor, they’re washable, refillable and reusable, and they can be frozen,” Steinle says. “When you’re done with them, toss them in the garbage. They’re biodegradable, as well.”

When her pet-sitting clients ask about giving bones, Steinle suggests knuckle or marrow bones because it’s easier to monitor dogs chewing on them, but she recommends that people ease into giving them. Knuckles, in particular, require an adjustment period because more tissue remains on them, she says.

The fat in marrow-filled bones can cause diarrhea. Remove most of it before giving the bone, leaving only a small amount to entice the dog.

Heather Houlahan, who has English Shepherds running her small Pennsylvania farm, prefers to give soft, non-weight-bearing bones that the dog gnaws and consumes fully. Those types of bones include duck necks, chicken backs, and venison, sheep, and goat ribs. The bones are part of a varied homemade diet of meat and organs, vegetables, grains, kibble, canned dog food, and canned fish.

Unless, like Houlahan, you do your own butchering and hunting, the best source for raw meaty bones for dogs is from a butcher. Even if you don’t shop at a local butcher, the meat department at your grocery store may be able to provide you with the type of bones you’re looking for and grind chicken necks or backs for you.

Never give cooked or dried bones. They become brittle and are more likely to splinter and cause injury. Dr. Johnson is also not a fan of synthetic bones or rawhides, saying they have the same risk of causing choking or obstructions as raw bones. “My favorite toy is something that can’t be ingested at all, and my favorite treat is something that can be completely ingested,” he says. “Anything in between, you’re just asking for trouble.”

Proper Handling of Raw Bones

One of the arguments against giving bones is the risk of handling raw meat and transmission of food-borne pathogens. Take the same precautions you would in preparing hamburgers or roast chicken for yourself:

*Refrigerate or freeze raw bones until you give them.

*Use a cutting board that is reserved for use with your dogs’ food.

*Sanitize counters or cutting boards that bones have touched.

*Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling bones or raw meat. (This is especially important with poultry, which often carries salmonella bacteria.)

*Give bones outdoors or in an area that can be easily cleaned afterward.

Additional Safety Tips

  • If your dog is new to bones, start slowly. For kibble-fed dogs, it can take time for their digestive system to adjust to the additional meat and fat.
  • Encourage dogs to take their time chewing. Overly aggressive chewers may attempt to swallow bones.
  • Avoid giving bones to dogs with severe periodontal disease. Chewing bones may be painful for them and they may be more prone to broken teeth, leading to infection, reluctance to eat, or tooth loss.
  • Supervise, especially if your dog tends to gulp food without chewing. That behavior may carry over to bone chewing.
  • Don’t let dogs crunch up bones and eat them. That’s when bone fragments can become wedged painfully between teeth or bone impactions and intestinal obstructions or perforations are likely to occur. Don’t hesitate to take your dog to the veterinarian if you suspect an obstruction or perforation. Signs of problems include unusual lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea.
  • To prevent fights or guarding behavior, never give bones to multiple dogs in the same area. Crate them in separate rooms or otherwise separate them.
  • If your dog has food- or toy-guarding tendencies, it’s best not to give bones at all.

Lots of people give their dogs raw meaty bones with no ill effects and plenty of benefits. Consider your ability to recognize and handle a problem, including financially, and proceed accordingly.

Recognizing and Treating Unhealthy Dog Nails

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
-
0
Unhealthy dog nails can cause pain, discomfort, and even permanent injuries if not addressed.
In addition to being painful for the dog, broken or split nails can lead to infection. Credit: Petra Richli | Getty Images

The most common problem for dog claws is lack of proper trimming, but it is possible to have truly unhealthy dog nails. Signs that your dog needs a veterinary visit include brittle nails that break frequently, discharge at the base of the nail, and claws growing into the paw pads.

Healthy vs. Unhealthy Dog Nails

Your dog’s claws should be short and strong with a smooth, slightly shiny surface. Ideally, they will have a gentle downward curve, tapering toward the point.

For dogs with white nails, a healthy nail will be the same color as human nails – pale pinkish at the base where the claw wraps around the sensitive quick and milky white at the end where it is just solid keratin.

For dogs with black nails, the claw will be a uniform black color.

Dog nails can also be varying shades of reddish brown depending on the pigmentation of your dog’s skin. These claws typically are lighter at the tip, but the difference may be more subtle than with white nails.

Each claw should be growing smoothly out of the dog’s paw as an extension of the toe. Many nails have a shallow groove along the bottom, which is normal.

Signs of unhealthy dog nails include:

  • Frequent broken nails
  • Brittle texture that cracks or breaks frequently or shatters during nail trims
  • Split nails
  • Soft, mealy texture
  • Rough or uneven surface
  • Pus oozing from nail, including when cut
  • Bleeding around the base of the claw
  • Oily discharge on or at the base of the nail
  • Color change
  • Some nails being a dramatically different shape than others
  • Changes in growth rate or direction
  • Licking and chewing at the nails and paws

Common Dog Nail Problems

These are some of the more common causes of unhealthy dog nails:

  • Bacterial nail infection
  • Fungal nail infection
  • Broken nails due to trauma
  • Broken or split nails due to excess length
  • Malnutrition
  • Allergies

A less common but more severe potential cause of nail problems is the autoimmune disorder lupoid onychodystrophy (also called symmetrical lupoid onychodystrophy or SLO).

Fungal or Bacterial Nail Infection

Dog nails are pretty hardy, but they can become infected. These infections are usually secondary to other issues such as a cut, broken nail, or allergies that weaken the body’s defenses and allow infectious agents to set up shop.

The appearance of a nail infection can vary. Bacterial nail infections generally have an oily or pus-like discharge, while fungal infections such as ringworm may be crusty. Yeast infections often have an odor similar to corn chips.

Your veterinarian will use a skin scrape and cytology to evaluate the infectious agent. Treatment may include both topical medications right at the source as well as oral medications for deep or widespread infections.

It is critical to treat for the full course of medication and to keep any follow up appointments. Nail bed infections can be stubborn and the outside may look perfectly normal while there is still infection present deeper in the claw base.

Broken Nails

Dogs can catch and break a nail on fences, furniture, their crates, or even running in the woods. The break may just affect the tip of the claw or could go all the way to the base. Sometimes the toe may be broken or dislocated as well.

The longer the nail, the greater the risk of a break. Long nails can get caught on clothing and dog beds or break during normal activity due to their excess length. Loose dewclaws that do not stay close to the leg are also at higher risk of getting caught on things when the dog is running around.

If a piece of the broken part of the nail is still attached, it should be removed. Loose, flapping nail tissue is just going to keep getting caught on things and causing your dog more discomfort. You may be able to remove the loose piece on your own, but a vet visit is often needed.

Remember that your dog’s paw may be quite painful and even the sweetest dog may bite when in pain. Cleaning and treating the broken nail may require sedation.

Your veterinarian may prescribe antibiotics to prevent infection and may recommend bandaging the paw for a few days if the nerve within the claw is exposed. Pain meds may also be prescribed.

Allergies

If your dog suffers from chronic nail infections or has issues with multiple claws/paws at the same time, an underlying allergy may be part of the problem. Your dog may be allergic to something in his food or in the environment, or to multiple things. Getting the allergies under control will help to prevent recurring nail infections.

Lupoid Onychodystrophy

Lupoid onychodystrophy or SLO is not common, but it is very unpleasant. This autoimmune disorder causes your dog’s immune system to attack the nails. It can cause the claws to be brittle or abnormally shaped, and to completely fall off. It can also be quite painful.

If your dog frequently breaks or loses nails, especially if multiple nails are often affected at the same time, lupoid onychodystrophy may be the culprit. Abnormal nail texture that persists even with proper nutrition is also a cause for concern.

German Shepherd Dogs, Rottweilers, and Gordon Setters are at increased risk of having this issue.

Diagnosing SLO requires ruling out other issues and taking a biopsy of the nail bed. It is then treated with immunosuppressive medications.

Monitoring Your Dog’s Nails

Ideally, you should be trimming your dog’s nails at least every other week to keep them at a proper length. Frequent nail trims mean you can still make progress and maintain short nails without having to cut a bunch of nail off each time.

Having regular nail trims as part of your care and grooming routine also provides the perfect opportunity to observe your dog’s nails close up. You will get a good sense of what your dog’s claws normally look like and how fast they grow. This allows you to spot any concerning changes early.

When to Call Your Vet

Some minor nail issues will resolve with time and proper nail trimming to shape the claws, but others require a veterinary exam and medications to get your pup up to snuff.

Schedule an appointment with your dog’s vet if:

  • Your dog is in pain due to a broken nail
  • Claws are curling around and growing into the paw pad
  • There is an abnormal odor from the paws
  • A nail has split
  • Your dog frequently breaks or rips off nails
  • Your dog bites at his nails—this is due to itchiness or discomfort
  • There is bleeding or discharge around the base of the claw
  • Claws ooze pus or discharge when cut
  • The texture or color of the nails has changed
  • Claws are growing in unusual directions
  • A broken nail does not grow back

Thankfully, most claw issues are not an emergency and can wait for regular business hours to be addressed. The exception is if you are unable to stop bleeding from a broken nail even after applying pressure.

If you have a new dog who may not have had proper care and nutrition before joining your family, don’t worry too much about unusual nail texture, shape, or color. Poor nutrition and hazardous living conditions can lead to unhealthy dog nails, and it may take a couple months before your dog produces normal, healthy claws. Feed a complete and balanced diet, trim the nails regularly, and monitor their progress over time. But if your new dog’s paws and claws are painful, smell bad, or have a discharge, he will need to be checked over by a veterinarian.

How to Treat Dog Hives at Home

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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1
Hives are an alarming skin allergy that can appear suddenly. Home treatment for dog hives can soothe these outbreaks until you can see a vet.
Contact with something that causes an allergic reaction in your dog can result in hives. While hives are usually not harmful, a consultation with your veterinarian is always wise. Credit: Alexei tm | Getty Images

Hives are a common skin reaction in dogs that causes raised, itchy bumps on their skin. Hives can appear suddenly and may range in size from small spots to larger areas covering significant parts of the body. While hives themselves are typically not life-threatening, they can be a sign of an allergic reaction or other health issue that may require medical attention. If the hives affect the dog’s nose or throat, they could interfere with breathing, which is a medical emergency.

Hives occur when the body releases a chemical called histamine into the blood. This causes the blood vessels to dilate, leading to fluid leakage and swelling in the surrounding tissues. Hives are usually the result of direct contact with a substance that causes an allergic reaction. This can result from contact with environmental allergens, food allergens, insect bites or stings, or medications.

How to Get Rid of Hives

If your dog develops hives, the appropriate treatment depends upon the severity of the reaction and its underlying cause. The first step in treating hives is to identify and remove the potential allergen:

  • If you suspect the hives are caused by food allergies, stop feeding the suspected food immediately.
  • If your dog has been exposed to an environmental allergen such as pollen, mold, or dust, bringing your dog indoors or using an air purifier may help provide some relief.
  • If the hives are caused by an insect bite or sting, particularly from bees, remove any insects or stingers from your pet and bring them inside.

Note: Dogs can experience significant swelling around the lips and face from bee stings, which can progress to throat swelling that can compromise your pet’s airway. These severe allergic reactions (anaphylaxis) are medical emergencies and require immediate veterinary care.

Dog Hives Treatment

Antihistamines and corticosteroids can help relieve the itching and swelling caused by hives. In severe cases, injectable medications administered by your vet can bring about rapid improvement. At-home hives treatments for your dog include:

  • Over-the-counter antihistamines, such as Benadryl. These are commonly used to treat mild reactions in dogs and should be administered under veterinary supervision. Be sure you are using a drug that only contains diphenhydramine and nothing else. See how to calculate a Benadryl dosage for your dog.
  • Giving your pup an oatmeal bath may help soothe their skin and relieve itching.
  • Cold compresses on affected areas may help provide temporary relief and help reduce swelling. Use a clean cloth soaked in cold water, or wrap some ice in a towel, and gently apply it to the hives for several minutes at a time.

Hives Prevention

To prevent further episodes of hives, avoid known allergens. If your dog is sensitive to environmental allergies, bathe the dog regularly to remove allergens such as dust and pollen from his coat. Ensure your dog is on a consistent flea prevention regimen to prevent flea-bite allergies and keep an eye on your pet when they are outside to prevent bee stings.

Hives are a common reaction in dogs that can be triggered by various irritants. While hives are usually not life-threatening, they can be uncomfortable for your dog and may indicate an underlying issue.

If your dog develops hives, report the incident to your veterinarian so it can be noted in your dog’s records, as allergic reactions may worsen over time. Consult with your veterinarian to determine the best course of action, especially if the reaction is severe or persistent.

If the episode is related to a vaccination, your veterinarian may recommend pre-treatment with antihistamine or a modification to vaccination schedules may help your vet minimize future reactions.

Why Is My Dog’s Vulva Swollen?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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1
Swelling of a dog's private areas can be caused by injury or dog vaginitis.
A female dog’s vulva normally swells and has discharge during a heat cycle. If your dog is not in heat but excessively licks her vulva or you see discharge, she needs a veterinary appointment.

A dog’s vulva can swell during a heat period in an intact female. That is normal. If she’s not in heat or spayed, a swollen vulva may indicate inflammation, irritation, or infection. Your female dog may occasionally lick her vulva to keep the area clean, but it’s wise to report any excessive licking to your veterinarian.

If you see pink moist tissue protruding from the vulva, your dog may have a vaginal prolapse, which is when the vaginal tissue is visible at the vulva. A prolapse is rare, however, and happens in intact bitches. A tumor in the vulvar area is also possible but, again, uncommon.

Almost always, vulvar swelling is related to a heat cycle and not cause for concern. Abnormal licking or discharge could indicate a problem in the dog’s reproductive or urinary system, which should be seen by a veterinarian.

Female Dog Parts

Your female dog has a straightforward reproductive system:

  • Ovaries
  • Uterus
  • Cervix
  • Vagina
  • Vulva

The ovaries, uterus, cervix, and vagina are internal—you cannot see them.

The vulva, sometimes called “dog’s private part,” is the opening that you see on the outside of the dog. Urine passes through the vulva as well as puppies if she gives birth.

Vaginitis in Dogs

Vaginitis (inflammation of the vagina) occurs due to a vaginal infection. If your dog constantly licks her vulva, an infection, inflammation, or skin irritation may be present that requires treatment.

Your dog may also be suffering from urinary incontinence, which may leave the vulva wet. Treatments for urinary incontinence are available, including the medication Proin.

If you notice blood or any other discharge, and your dog is not in heat, she should see a veterinarian. The discharge may be coming from higher in the reproductive tract. Pyometra, a uterine infection, can be fatal if not treated quickly. But even if your dog is spayed and you see discharge from the vulva, a veterinary visit is in order.

If your dog has a malformed vulva that traps debris, it can lead to vaginitis, and surgery may be needed to correct the deformity.

Dog Vaginitis Treatment

If your dog develops vaginitis, you may notice her frequently licking her vulva, rubbing her rear (like dogs with an anal gland problem), or chewing in that area. Some dogs will urinate more frequently. Male dogs can be attracted to a female dog with vaginitis, even if she is spayed.

Vaginitis often causes a discharge that comes out through the vulva. Any puslike discharge is abnormal and a reason for a veterinary visit.

Note: A clear but slightly thick fluid can be expected during some stages of your dog’s heat cycle. A bloody discharge usually signals the start of a heat cycle.

Puppy Vaginitis

Puppy or juvenile vaginitis can occur in female puppies from 8 weeks to about 8 months of age. You might notice some discharge or your puppy licking more than usual in the vulvar area. The vulva may swell a bit from the irritation of the licking. The hair in that area may be sticky or have dried crusts from the discharge.

These signs may wax and wane over weeks or even months. Almost always, all symptoms disappear once your pup has her first heat. In the meantime, you can gently clean the area when there is discharge. Warm water is usually sufficient. You don’t want any potent cleaning agents that might irritate sensitive tissues.

Adult Dog Vaginitis

Vaginitis in a mature female dog may be harder to diagnose and treat. If your dog is intact, your veterinarian will want to see where she is in her heat cycle. Swabs to evaluate cells and possibly a culture if the discharge indicates bacterial infection will be done. An X-ray may be taken to rule out a pyometra.

If your dog was spayed, your veterinarian may do the same testing to ensure there is no “stump pyometra,” which is an infection of the tissues left after her spay surgery.

For adult dogs with vaginitis, a gentle douche may be prescribed. Antibiotics will be used if there is evidence of bacterial infection. Keeping the vulvar area clean is important.

How to Help a Dog with Separation Anxiety

By
Dr. Kate Mornement Phd, CAAB
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0
Helping a dog with separation anxiety starts with recognizing the problem.
Management and training can often improve separation anxiety in dogs. Credit: Photo by Jules Clark | Getty Images

Separation anxiety (SA), also known as separation-related distress, is one of the most common behavioral problems in pet dogs with some estimates stating that one in four dogs will suffer from separation anxiety during their lifetime.

 

 

What is Separation Anxiety in Dogs?

Separation anxiety occurs when a dog is unable to cope with separation from their human caregiver or canine companion.  It can range in severity from relatively mild through to extreme.

According to a recent study by Beaver (2024) up to 85.9% of dogs displayed moderate to serious separation-related behaviors. This finding demonstrates the emotional impact isolation can have on dogs, many of whom are ill equipped to cope with separation.

Many dog owners don’t realize that the ability to cope with separation from attachment figures is a learned behavior and a skill we must gradually teach our dogs, just like we teach it to our babies and young children.

How To Recognize Separation Anxiety in Your Dog

There are a number of signs to look for which could indicate your dog is experiencing separation anxiety. In mild cases, the signs might be quite subtle and easily missed whereas in moderate to extreme cases, the signs will be very obvious. 

Signs of separation anxiety include:

  • Panting
  • Pacing
  • Drooling
  • Increased heart rate
  • Excessive whining or barking
  • Not eating when alone
  • Destructive scratching and/or chewing
  • Trembling
  • Sweaty paws
  • House soiling
  • Attempting to escape from the home or backyard

If you notice any of these signs in your dog when she is left alone it’s important to make an appointment with your vet to confirm a separation anxiety diagnosis or rule it out. Some signs of separation anxiety, such as excessive barking, destructive chewing and attempting to escape the home, can be the result of boredom or even linked to a medical issue.

Common Triggers for Separation Anxiety in Dogs

Separation anxiety can be triggered by several different events or circumstances which are typically related to a change to the normal routine. These can include:

  • Going to a new home as a puppy
  • Being left alone for the first time
  • Being surrendered to an animal shelter
  • Being adopted from an animal shelter
  • Moving house
  • Changes to the owners work schedule
  • A family member moving out
  • The owner traveling
  • Staying at a boarding kennel (especially for the first time)
  • A death in the family

Curing Dog Separation Anxiety Quickly

Most dog owners want to know how to cure separation anxiety quickly. However, the reality is that there are no quick fixes. Overcoming separation anxiety takes time, patience, and consistency in terms of management and training.

Prevention is the best cure. Teaching your puppy how to cope with separation gradually and to associate it with positive experiences will help prevent them from developing separation anxiety. However, if your dog already has separation anxiety, you can still help them overcome it.

How To Help a Dog with Separation Anxiety

The first step to helping a dog with separation anxiety is to make an appointment with your vet or a qualified behaviorist. They will determine the severity of the separation anxiety, whether anti-anxiety medication is recommended for successful treatment, and provide you with a training and management plan to work to resolve the separation anxiety.

When separation anxiety is on the moderate to extreme end of the scale, medication can be very beneficial to help facilitate behavior modification. This is because the medication can reduce the anxiety enough to allow learning to occur. Without it, behavior modification may not be successful as highly anxious dogs are often unable to learn and retain information.

Dog Separation Anxiety Training

There are a number of training exercises that can be done to help a dog with separation anxiety. Let’s look at how dog separation anxiety training looks in both the short and long term.

Short term management and training

Here are some short-term management and training techniques that can help to reduce separation anxiety:

  • Avoid leaving your dog home alone. The aim is to avoid any further negative experiences with being left alone while simultaneously working to teach your dog to associate separation with positive experiences.
  • Start to teach your dog that being separated from you within the home can be a pleasurable experience. You can do this using a sit-stay exercise where you ask your dog to sit, then say “stay”. Next, take a step away, wait three seconds and step back toward your dog. If they maintained the sit, say “good girl/boy” and immediately reward with a high value treat. Repeat several times. If your dog succeeds and does not break the stay gradually increase the distance and duration that you move away from them, building up so that you can move out of sight for longer periods of time. It’s important that you reward them every time they succeed. If at any point they break the stay it means your dog is not coping at that level. Go back to the previous step at which they were successful and continue to build from there. Practice in different rooms of the home and in the backyard. With time and consistency your dog will learn that being separated from you can be a positive experience.
  • Feed your dog their meals in a room or area away from you. This also teaches them that being separated from you can be a pleasant experience as they are associating separation with their meal (a primary reinforcer). You can also give them high value chew treats, a lick mat, or treat puzzle toys during the day to help them learn associate separation with pleasurable experiences (eating high value treats).

Long term management and training

Here are some management and training exercises to work on in the long term to build your dog’s ability to cope with separation:

  • Gradual desensitization and counter-conditioning. Begin to desensitize your dog to separations by leaving the home for periods of time that are short enough not to trigger anxiety (e.g. 1 to 2 minutes). Immediately before you leave, give your dog a high value and long-lasting chew treat, puzzle toy, or lick mat. Repeat several times per day and gradually increase the time of separation if your dog is coping at the previous level.
  • Avoid continually leaving for longer and longer periods of time. Rather, ensure you mix it up with shorter separations in between to prevent your dog anticipating longer separations and potentially feeling anxious in response.
  • Reduce the contrast between when you’re home (and your dog is happiest) and when you’re away (and your dog is not as happy) by not making a fuss when you come and go. A casual goodbye when you leave and hello when you get home, rather than over-exuberant goodbyes and greetings, will help your dog learn that you coming and going is not a big deal.

Conclusion

Separation anxiety is a common behavioral problem in dogs. The ability to cope with separation from attachment figures is a learned behavior and there are no quick fixes.  As a social species, dogs are not born knowing how to be on their own, just like human children. It’s our responsibility to teach our dogs how to cope with separation using a combination of good management and training. Desensitization and counter-conditioning to separation can teach dogs to tolerate separation gradually. In severe cases, anti-anxiety medication may be prescribed to facilitate behavior modification.

What Traits Make the Best Family Dogs?

By
Mary Schwager
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0
The best family dogs are a product of training and management.
While the best family dogs may start with the right traits, training, socialization, and management are essential. Educating family members of all ages about how to properly handle a dog is also extremely important. Credit: Compassionate Eye Foundation/Steven Errico | Getty Images

Though social media posts, movies, and books may portray magical stories of children and dogs growing up together, parents must manage a high-stakes relationship. One simple misstep could end up with your child in the emergency room and your dog with a bite history that could cost them their life.

Committing to a dog should never be taken lightly; before you do, ask yourself some critical questions about your lifestyle. Though there are no guarantees, dogs with certain traits may show promise to be good family dogs with the proper training and care.

Traits to Look For to Find the Best Family Dogs

Experts say the best family dogs are generally confident, resilient, outgoing, and social, with phenomenal temperaments.

“Confident dogs are not afraid to explore new things, and they’re friendly with people and other animals,” says Elysia Ostrander, a CPDT-KA certified trainer and co-owner of Pawsitive Families Education and Training.

But don’t confuse confidence with reactivity; you don’t want a dog that barks at people or other dogs. Look for a pooch that accepts new people and rolls with change. If you have children, there will likely be kids zipping around your house, toys that make weird noises, and people coming in and out.

“The dog should have resiliency, the ability to recover from scary events quickly,” Ostrander says. “When something unexpected happens, they can shake it off and return to their friendly, happy selves.”

A timid dog may not be the best fit for an active family.

“When you encounter a dog or puppy huddled in a corner, appearing frightened or hesitant to approach—those are the moments that tug at our heartstrings—we often think, ‘What a sad, sweet dog in need of love.’ However, that dog may be more likely to feel overwhelmed in a lively family environment,” says Jenny Wyffels, a CPDT-KA and CBCC-KA certified dog trainer and owner of Cooperative Canine Concepts.

Wyffels suggests looking for dogs that come toward you, eager to sniff, interact, and enjoy being touched. “If I take a few steps back and they follow me for more attention, unphased by quick movements or sudden noises, those are likely better candidates to consider,” she says.

Assess Your Family’s Traits

Before considering a dog for your family, assess your household’s traits and lifestyle.

Are you ready for a dog? What kind of breed would fit well? Do you have the time, energy, and money to invest in a canine companion? It’s a 12- to 15-year commitment to another family member who might shed.

“Raising and owning a dog is an extremely time-consuming endeavor,” says Dr. Blake Gibson, DVM, a veterinarian with Texas Veterinary Behavior Services and resident of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. “It is like having another child, and you cannot skimp.”

Calculate how long the dog would be home alone each day. Working full-time and spending your afternoons and weekends driving kids to soccer games might not leave much time for a pup. Be honest with yourself and your children.

If a pooch doesn’t get enough exercise, training, and companionship, they can develop behavioral issues. Dogs are social animals and need contact with humans and other dogs.

“You have to step up for the dog even if you are busy, tired, sick, or weary; their physical and mental needs can’t be ignored,” says Dr. Gibson. “If you can’t meet the dog’s needs, it is especially inhumane to confine the dog to a crate or put them out in the yard.”

Another pivotal question: Are you dedicated to overseeing the relationship between your kids and a dog? Young children and dogs need constant supervision and management. “The stakes are really high when we’re talking about dogs and kids,” Ostrander says.

It takes a split second for something to happen—a toddler innocently falls on a dog, pulls their tail, or takes their toy; it could surprise the dog and result in a bite that causes permanent disfigurement to your child and a bite record that could end with your dog being euthanized.

Besides time, also plan for the financial aspect of having a dog. Veterinary care, training, grooming, food, and toys add up. An unexpected animal emergency bill could cost thousands of dollars.

“It is realistic to expect a pet to become ill at some point,” Dr. Gibson says. “Being prepared for these events can protect your pet’s health and prevent having to make heartbreaking decisions.”

If you can provide the proper enrichment, supervision, and financial support for a dog, reflect on your household members’ ages, interests, and activity levels to help determine the best dog for your family.

Are you an on-the-go crew that likes to walk, hike, and swim? You may want a more energetic dog. Do you have kids? A young puppy or large dog might knock them over.

Best Dogs For Kids

So, what are the best dogs for kids?

“My answer is always, ‘The dog that the parents want,'” Ostrander says. “The adults are the ones responsible for the family. No matter what dog you bring home, your kids will be excited and love them. Don’t allow your children to sway your decision.”

Should you get a puppy or an adult dog?

Puppies are like having a newborn child. They need constant care, multiple veterinary visits, and potty training—which means running outside with them every couple of hours. Most pups go through that “baby Velociraptor” stage.

“They’re super cute and cuddly when they come home, then a few weeks later, you’ve got kids running and screaming because the puppy is nipping at their ankles,” Ostrander says. “A puppy is a ton of work. People need to be ready for that challenge.”

Another puppy pitfall is there’s no guarantee how they will act when they’re older.

“We don’t have reliable temperament tests to administer to a puppy and predict how that dog will turn out as an adult,” Dr. Gibson says. “The only exception to this is anxiety—anxious puppies are likely to become anxious adult dogs.”

A dog over the age of two years may give you a better idea of their personality.

“The nice thing about an adult dog is a lot of times it’s what you see is what you get,” Ostrander says. “They’ve established who they are. Look for one that isn’t scared by the kids, is super excited to see you, and has wiggly, loose body language.”

What’s the best way to find a family dog? And what are the best breeds to consider?

Best Family Dog Breeds

There’s no certainty that a dog of any breed will be the perfect match for your family. Each pooch is their own unique being. “It truly does just come down to a study of one,” Wyffels says.

Typically, Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and Brittany Spaniels are known for having traits that may make them among the best family dog breeds.

“There is a huge amount of variability in behavior even between individuals of the same breed,” Dr. Gibson says. “This makes giving blanket recommendations like this difficult. As a very broad generalization, I do feel that many of the herding breeds have a harder time in homes with children. Their herding behavior (mouthing and chasing) often gets them into trouble with younger children.”

Even a “mutt” may fit your family well. “We see a lot of mixed breed dogs that have phenomenal temperaments that come from shelters,” Wyffels says.

Is a shelter, rescue group, or breeder the best place to find a family dog?

Let’s start with rescues and shelters; many groups and facilities are overflowing and overwhelmed with puppies and dogs. Thousands are euthanized each year to make space in overcrowded facilities.

Besides saving a life by adopting, there are some other potential benefits.

If a puppy or dog lives in a foster home, you can get key information about a pooch’s personality, disposition, and quirks by speaking to the foster family. Ask if the dog has ever been around or lives with kids.

“A lot of times, the shelter staff or the foster home will know so much about the dog,” Ostrander says. “If the dog previously lived with kids and did well with them, that’s great. If the dog lived with kids and didn’t do so well, that’s not the right dog for you. Listen to what they say because they know that dog the best.”

While you’re most likely to find an adult dog by adopting, sometimes breeders sell adults no longer used for breeding or dogs that were returned, but most offer puppies for sale.

“There’s good breeders and bad breeders,” Ostrander says. “Interview your breeder and understand what their intention was. A Golden Retriever from a working and hunting line differs greatly from a Golden Retriever bred to be a good family dog.”

Ethical breeders will answer all your questions and help you by socializing and training the pup. If a dog doesn’t work out, a good breeder will take them back so they don’t end up in a shelter.

“I look for breeders that will place puppies,” Ostrander says. “So, it’s not, ‘Come pick your puppy.’ It’s ‘Oh, you have kids; we want to make sure the puppy is a good fit for you.’ A responsible breeder supports families.”

Lifelong Training and Management

If you’ve decided a new furry family member is in your future, lifelong training and management are crucial.

“I tell people to start training their kids before the dog comes home,” Ostrander says. “Set expectations of what that life will look like so there are clear rules and boundaries.”

Plan where to put baby gates, crates, dog beds, and toys. Assign everyone a role and responsibility. Hire a professional trainer or sign up for group classes immediately. (Find pain and force-free, positive reinforcement programs.)

Educational Resources for Families with Dogs

AVMA Dog Bite Prevention Downloadable Coloring Book

Be BiteSmart

Familypaws.com

Thefamilydog.com

Doggonesafe.com

American College of Veterinary Behaviorists

These directories can help you find certified pain/force-free trainers or behaviorists:

  1. https://m.iaabc.org/consultant
  2. https://www.petprofessionalguild.com/find-a-ppg-professional
  3. https://www.ccpdt.org/dog-owners/how-to-choose-a-dog-trainer

Even if you think you know it all, each dog has different quirks. Training can be life-changing, even lifesaving.

“At the end of the day, I’m a people trainer—I’m training you to train your dog,” Ostrander says. “I get the kids involved. Then, I teach the parents to watch a dog’s body language to see if there are signs that the dog is uncomfortable.”

Dogs often give warnings like yawning or licking their lips if they’re tense, something adults should watch to prevent a situation from escalating. No dog should ever be considered bite-proof.

Training is a lifelong process, so after your dog graduates from behavior classes, continue their training sessions for a few minutes daily. Even service dogs lose some of their skills without practice. The better behaved your dog is, the more likely they will be welcomed at soccer games, outings, and social gatherings with you.

Once you find a dog you believe fits your family perfectly, remember that patience and empathy are key to a loving, successful, and harmonious relationship.

“Like children, caring for a dog will involve moments of stress, setbacks to some of your efforts, or unexpected changes,” Dr. Gibson says. “A dog is a living being with their own needs and emotions. There will always be at least some balance between the good and the bad, but your perspective and effort determine whether it all is worth it.”

Spay Surgery Is Not Required to Stop Canine Reproduction

By
Nancy Kerns
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18
Puppy litter can be prevented, even when spay or neutering isn't an option.
Yet another “accidental” litter of unwanted puppies at my local shelter. Far more are arriving than the shelter can find homes for—and all the other shelters in our area are in the same boat.

I don’t think I could have survived being a shelter worker in the 1970s, when the population of dogs (and cats) getting euthanized annually in American shelters was highest. The Humane Society of the U.S. estimated that about 13.5 million animals were euthanized in the U.S. in 1973; in recent years, that number has hovered under 3 million—still too many, but far fewer than when I was a child.

However, while estimated numbers for 2023 and 2024 won’t be available for another year or two, there is plenty of anecdotal evidence that the number of euthanized pets will be far higher than the lowest historic counts. There have been a number of theories floated for this increase, from the COVID-era shortage of veterinary appointments available for spay/neuter surgery (both caused by mandatory animal hospital closures as well as the COVID-prompted retirement of many veterinarians and veterinary staff), to steep increases in the price of spay/neuter surgery (caused by both a shortage of vets and veterinary staff and high demand).

Though the causes are not entirely clear, the fact that there has been a sharp rise in the number of unwanted dogs (in particular) is evident to anyone involved in sheltering or rescue. Shelters and rescues are packed beyond capacity with adult and adolescent dogs and endless waves of puppies keep coming in year-round.

I can’t count the times that someone who had an unplanned litter of puppies told me, “It’s OK, I have homes lined up for all of the puppies!” This makes me crazy, because I know that when people are given a free puppy, very few of them follow through and obtain spay/neuter surgery; that unplanned puppy is about to go out and make a bunch more.

In online forums for community members, I often see posts from people who are seeking information about lower-cost spay/neuter surgery for their dogs—and just as often, looking to give away free puppies. I live in an economically disadvantaged town in a lower-income county, so I think I see more of this than my friends in more affluent parts of California, but I always wonder: Why can’t they just keep their dogs apart?

I know that the allure of a female dog in heat is strong, and that male dogs will do anything in their power to reach them. But surely anyone can procure a secure crate for their female dog, and back it up with a closed door or two for as many weeks as needed? How long is this? If you have an intact female dog, you had better find out! See “How Long Are Dogs in Heat.”

In a household with intact male and female dogs, what about making the neutering of the male dogs a priority? Surgery for males costs much less than females. If your own male dogs are neutered, you just have to secure your female dog indoors at home (so she’s not accosted by other intact males in the neighborhood).

Look into every voucher program or low-income assistance program in your community. Call your local animal shelter and ask for their recommendations on lower-cost spay/neuter. Call every veterinarian in your area and compare costs, asking if they offer any lower-cost appointments.

If you know someone with an intact female dog, please help them learn about how to prevent their dog’s pregnancy, point them toward a low-cost spay/neuter clinic, or do a little fundraising in your immediate social circle to help surgery happen sooner than later. Slowing the number of healthy dogs being euthanized in U.S. shelters depends on everyone doing what they can to prevent more unwanted litters from being conceived.

Extraordinary Canines: The Dogs of Search and Rescue

By
Joan Merriam
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0
Search and rescue dogs play a vital role in first response after a disaster or major incident.
There are no breed restrictions for search and rescue dogs, but the individual must be physically and temperamentally suited to the work. Credit: Ashley Cooper | Getty Images

She was the last living search and rescue dog who worked to find survivors at the Twin Towers after the September 11 attacks. At 16 years old and suffering from kidney failure, Bretagne entered a Texas animal hospital on June 6, 2016 to be euthanized; as she and her caretaker took the slow walk into the hospital, fire department first responders lined the sidewalk and saluted. After she died, a search and rescue team carried her out in a flag-draped coffin. As she passed, the line of firefighters took up their salute once again, wearing black mourning bands across their badges.

This beautiful Golden Retriever came from a long line of extraordinary dogs whose calling is to find humans who are lost, injured, or missing. These skilled, highly trained search and rescue dogs can often mean the difference between life and death, especially during mass casualty events, natural disasters, and when searching for missing persons.

History of Search and Rescue Dogs

It all started in the 17th century, when the St. Augustine monks at a monastery on Switzerland’s Great St. Bernard Pass acquired special dogs—now known as St. Bernards—to guard the abbey. The monks often needed to rescue travelers in the Alps and the dogs soon began to accompany them: first as foul-weather pathfinders and later as guides to locate missing persons.

During World War I, search dogs located injured soldiers on the battlefield; in World War II, dogs found victims buried in bombed-out buildings; we also saw search dogs in the Korean War, Vietnam, and modern conflicts. Today’s search and rescue dogs are part of teams that operate in counties and municipalities in every state. Sometimes, the county sheriff’s departments direct search and rescue operations; other times, these services are coordinated by agencies like the Coast Guard, state departments of emergency management, fire and rescue, or non-profit organizations.

Nationally, the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) oversees search dog teams specializing in detecting either survivors or deceased persons. As of 2023, FEMA had 280 teams focused on searching for survivors, and 80 teams that seek out human remains.

Search and rescue dogs can do these remarkable things because of one specific canine characteristic: scent. A dog’s sense of smell—as much as 100,000 times more powerful than ours—is thanks to a specialized olfactory organ inside their nasal cavity known as the Jacobsen’s organ. The nerves from this organ connect directly to the brain and can identify a range of odors that are completely undetectable to humans.

Categories of Search and Rescue Dogs

Search and rescue (SAR) dogs are generally categorized as either air-scenting or trailing. Air-scenting dogs follow airborne human scents until they locate the source of the smell. Once they lock onto the scent, they “indicate” with a bark or other physical cue; if their handler is too far away to hear or see them, they will return to the person and guide them to where they located the scent. Even in less-than-optimal conditions, these dogs can detect a scent source as far away as a quarter-mile.  Cadaver dogs are specialized air-scenting dogs trained to detect the scent of deceased persons, and can locate bodies—whether above ground or buried—or even skeletal remains.  These dogs can actually detect the difference between human and animal ash and can alert over century-old graves.

Trailing dogs follow the scent-trail of a specific person after being given an article of that person’s clothing or other personal item and will hunt for a trail that matches that scent. Some skilled trailing dogs can even follow a scent where the person has never touched the ground.

What Breeds Are Best for Search and Rescue?

Almost any breed or mix can be trained for SAR as long as the dog possesses the right qualities. Temperamentally, these dogs have strong prey, pack, and play drives and are highly intelligent. They are willing to learn, very well socialized with humans and other animals, and must be able to tolerate stressful situations, loud noises, and large crowds of people or other animals.

Physically, a SAR dog needs to be healthy, resilient, strong, and agile. One of the most important physical qualities of a SAR dog is balanced front- and rear-leg angulation (the angles formed by the meeting of bones at the hip and shoulder joint); equally crucial is a strong rear assembly (the hip, thigh, and rear limb of the dog), which is vital for jumping, climbing, and forward propulsion. These sorts of physical attributes are key to a dog’s ability to handle the physical stress of days-long deployments in perilous, unstable urban situations or extreme backcountry environments.

While a variety of breeds serve as SAR dogs, many are working breeds such as the Labrador Retriever, Golden Retriever, German Shepherd Dog, Border Collie, and Belgian Malinois.

Training a Search and Rescue Dog

Search and rescue dogs go through rigorous training that can last up to two years, often starting as young as 8 months old. Much of the time, training is done through the various search and rescue organizations. Puppies are introduced to tasks in a playful, relaxed manner; then as the dog matures, training becomes more demanding—between 20 and 50 hours a month—and includes everything from scent work to tracking to rubble search. Over the course of two years, the cost of training a single SAR dog can range upwards of $20,000.

SAR training is very different than your family dog’s training. One example is obedience: while most SAR organizations require that the dog pass an obedience test that meets or exceeds the AKC’s Canine Good Citizen test, beyond that, a SAR dog is taught what’s called “intelligent disobedience.” For instance, when a SAR dog indicates to the handler that they found something, but the handler dismisses it because of the environment or situation, the dog must disobey and persist in its alert until the handler investigates what the dog has found.

SAR handlers are also highly trained. Principles include land navigation, wilderness survival, radio communication, map reading, and the fundamentals of scent, often spotlighting the SAR team’s focus area such as avalanche rescue, cadaver detection, water search, or human tracking.

After initial training, the team undergoes stringent certification processes that ensure the dog and handler are equipped for search and rescue work.  Most SAR organizations require periodic recertification that involves testing the team in specific search and rescue situations. FEMA, for instance, requires that their teams recertify every three years.

Dangers Faced by Search Dogs

Search and rescue dogs confront a myriad of hazards in their work. These can include everything from snake bites and wildlife encounters to dangerous waterways and extreme weather. Urban perils like falls, entrapment, heavy equipment, and traffic also present risks to SAR dogs.

People have long wondered if these dogs, like some of their handlers, suffer from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD) as a result of their experiences in the field.  Unfortunately, while it’s agreed that these highly stressful situations have the potential to cause anxiety in SAR dogs, the research is extremely limited and there’s no evidence that points to these dogs experiencing actual PTSD.

What we can say is that there’s clear evidence of acute stress in some search and rescue dogs during deployments. Also, while some SAR dogs show behavioral difficulties after deployment, there’s nothing pointing to any connection between the issues and deployment. However, more research is needed to assess behavioral consequences of disaster deployment in SAR dogs.

Susannah Charleson, certified search and rescue dog handler and author of Scent of the Missing, says that search and rescue dogs operate “in the thin air between the possibility of life and the probability of death.” These extraordinary canines illustrate why we consider dogs to be our best friends, working with and for us at human-generated catastrophes like explosions, building collapses, and mass casualty events, or those arising from the forces of nature such as floods, hurricanes, tornadoes, and fires.

How to Calm a Dog Down

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Knowing how to calm a dog down is necessary both indoors and outdoors.
The best way to calm dog anxiety naturally is with increased exercise. Credit: Edwin Tan | Getty Images

Many dog owners know the frustration of dealing with a hyperactive or anxious dog. Whether your dog is constantly bouncing off the walls, excessively barking, or displaying signs of anxiety, understanding the underlying causes of hyperactivity and anxiety, and taking a proactive approach to their care, can help improve their overall wellbeing and help you calm down a dog.

Whether your dog’s excitement is due to barking at squirrels, a new person in the house or anything that causes the dog to become anxious, having an arsenal of cues that you can ask the dog to do to distract him is key. But it takes time.

Without training, the only way to instantly calm your dog down is to remove him from the stimulus. If your dog is on the couch, looking out the window and barking at a pesky squirrel, remove the dog from the stimulus. If you’re walking the dog and he sees another dog and becomes excited, turn and walk away in the opposite direction.

If your dog goes crazy and you’re home—and your dog is properly crate-trained—put your dog in his crate. You can cover the crate, if needed, as this creates even more of a calming atmosphere. You can even close the door to the room, if need be, to muffle noise a bit.

If the dog isn’t crate-trained, you still need to remove him from the trigger, so pick him up if he’s little or grab a leash and go to another room together, away from the problem, may help him refocus on you. Note: Do not grab the dog’s collar and pull him away from the problem! That will only reinforce that something’s wrong.

If you don’t have a crate, depending on your dog, he may relax in a quiet room even after you leave, especially if it’s a room he is familiar with. Locking him in the bathroom alone will probably backfire on you, because chances are he’s never in that room and there is rarely a comfy spot for him to relax.

If the problem is noise outside, playing music or the TV can help. You don’t need to blast the sound. You’re just giving the dog a refocus.

If the problem is a new person, even a spot blocked by a baby gate may be enough to break the intensity of the excitement, provided he is used to the baby gate block.

If your dog knows the basics of sit, down, turnaround, and back, you have an array of cues (with rewards!) that you can do to refocus your dog. Use these exercises to take your dog’s mind off what’s bothering him. But you must have trained the cue and rewarded the response before you need it, so the cue is solid.

What Causes a Hyper Dog?

Hyperactivity in dogs typically stems from excess energy, lack of training or structure, or boredom. Some breeds are naturally very high-energy and require more physical exercise than others. Additionally, younger dogs typically have more energy than their older counterparts. Without adequate exercise or mental stimulation, these dogs can become restless.

Dogs that have not been properly trained and socialized or lack clear boundaries and routines may also act out in hyperactive ways. Boredom is common for dogs and, when dogs do not receive enough physical or mental stimulation, they often turn to hyperactive behaviors like jumping, barking, pacing, whining, or destructive behaviors like chewing.

Anxiety in dogs can occur for various reasons and is typically expressed by excessive panting, pacing, drooling, whining, hiding, or destructive behaviors. Common causes of anxiety include separation anxiety, fear of loud noises, changes in environment or routine, and traumatic experiences.

How to Calm a Dog Naturally

The way to calm dog naturally is to manage the dog with regular physical exercise. Depending on your dog’s breed, age, and health, taking them on daily walks, runs, play sessions, or training sessions can help burn off excess energy. Exercise releases endorphins, which can improve mood and reduce anxiety. Aim for at least 30 to 60 minutes of physical activity every day. Fetch, tug-of-war, and agility exercises are also great options.

Mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise. Engage in activities that stimulate both your dog’s body and mind, such as puzzle toys, scent games, hide-and-seek, or learning new tricks.

Establishing a Routine Can Help Calm a Dog

Dogs thrive on routine, and a lack of structure can contribute to anxiety. Having a consistent daily schedule for feeding, walks, playtime, and rest can help your dog feel more secure and reduce behavioral issues.

Calming Tools for Dogs

Various products are available to help calm anxious or hyperactive dogs. These products include calming diffusers and collars that use pheromone or scent technology to convey a calming effect on your pet; ThunderShirts, which can help during fireworks or thunderstorms by applying gentle, constant pressure on your dog’s body to calm them; and calming supplements, which can be added to your dog’s diet. Ingredients such as L-theanine, L-tryptophan, magnesium, and some probiotic strains have been shown to promote a reduction in anxiety-related behaviors.

If your dog’s anxiety or hyperactivity is severe, persistent, or seems to be getting worse, a visit with your veterinarian is in order. In some cases, medication may be recommended to help manage severe anxiety and improve your dog’s quality of life.

Hyperactivity and anxiety in dogs are both common issues that many pet owners face, but with patience, consistency, and the right approach, you can help your dog feel more relaxed and secure.

Providing ample exercise, mental stimulation, and a structured environment are key steps in reducing hyperactivity and anxiety.

Additionally, using calming products and seeking professional guidance from your veterinarian or a behaviorist can help provide further support. By addressing your dog’s needs, you can help them live a calmer, happier life.

Pet-Friendly Ice Melt

By
Dan Muse
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Ice melt is an unexpected poison hazards for pets in winter. Pet friendly ice melt can alleviate this risk.
Beware of sidewalks that may have been treated with traditional ice melt or rock salt. Products that are specifically “pet-friendly” are safer choices for your dog. Credit: Ekaterina Goncharova | Getty Images

While winter can be a wonderland for both humans and our dogs, with picturesque snow-covered walks and hikes, it can also be a slippery slope. Literally. While we enjoy the season, it’s important to be mindful of the dangers lurking beneath the snow. Ice is bad for dogs because they can slip just as we do, but the solution isn’t using traditional ice melt, rock salt, or ice salt. These common household items can injure your dog’s paws and can be toxic if ingested.

Pet-Safe Alternatives to Ice Melt

Pet-friendly ice melt options do work. They’re readily available and won’t harm your dog. Consider these options:

  • Sand or kitty litter are natural materials that provide traction without the use of harmful chemicals. The downside: They don’t melt ice and are messy.
  • Sugar beet- or beet juice-based products are less toxic to pets and can be effective at melting ice. The downside? Choose a product specifically labeled pet-safe, as some beet-based products may still contain harmful ingredients.
  • Potassium chloride-based products are generally less harmful to pets than traditional rock salt, so potassium chloride-based ice melt is a good option for pet owners. The downside? They can still irritate paws and may be less effective at melting ice in very cold temperatures.

5 Dog-Friendly Ice Melts

While you can’t control what your town or neighbors use to treat icy roads and walkways, you can control what you put down on your driveway, steps, and walks. These five safe ice melt alternatives, are suggested by  Beth Turner, DVM, a Colorado-based veterinarian:

  • Safe Paw: Made with a dual-effect compound that is said to work quickly to melt ice and prevent re-icing.
  • Just For Pets A chloride-free formula, listed as safe for pets and easy to use.
  • Green Gobbler: A pet-safe ice melt product that the manufacturer designed to work well in spreaders.
  • Natural Rapport: The manufacturer claims, its ice melt is pet-friendly thanks to a proprietary organic formula to reduce corrosion and is safer for pets, children, and the environment.
  • Safe-T-Pet: Safe-T-Pet is a salt-free ice melt developed with veterinarians to be safer for dogs, people, plants, and surfaces than plain salt, according to the company.

These products tend to be more expensive than traditional ice melt, or rock salt, but you should be aware of the risks associated with these choices.

Traditional Ice Melt

While you can use the cheaper alternatives, it’s wise to keep your pets away from those areas. The risks introduced by ice melt fall into two categories. According to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC), licking small amounts of ice melt off their paws or treated ground is unlikely to cause serious problems, but it does introduce a variety of health risks. The second, more serious concern is when a dog ingests a large amount of ice melt directly from the container, which could be fatal.

University of Illinois Veterinary Medicine South Clinic reports that dog owners need to look out for exposure to ice-melting products and react quickly if their dogs accidentally consume these products by eating treated snow or licking the products off the pads of their feet.

“Ice-melting products are usually made up of different kinds of salts, containing magnesium, potassium, calcium or sodium,” writes Dr. Gene Pavlovsky, director of the clinic. “Ingestion can cause vomiting and diarrhea, sometimes severe enough to cause dehydration or even tremors and seizures, depending on the amount ingested and size of the pet.”

Why Ice Melt Is Harmful to Dogs?

As mentioned, popular ice-melt products usually contain chemicals, which can cause a variety of health problems if ingested, including:

  • Gastrointestinal upset, which can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite.
  • Dehydration, due to excessive salt intake, can be serious if left untreated.
  • Kidney failure, due to ingesting large amounts of ice melt.
  • Paw irritation, caused by direct contact with ice melt can irritate your dog’s paw pads, causing pain and possible infection.

Is Ice and Salt Bad for Dogs?

The American Veterinary Medical Foundation recommends that, when you’re out with your dog, you check her paws frequently for signs of cold-weather injury or damage, such as cracked or bleeding paw pads.

During a walk, a sudden limp may be due to an injury or could be due to ice accumulation between his/her toes. You may be able to reduce the chance of ice-ball accumulation by clipping the hair between your dog’s toes.

During icy conditions, reduce the amount of time your dog spends outdoors, especially on days with heavy snowfall or freezing rain. After walks, use a damp cloth or baby wipe to remove any ice-melt residue from your dog’s paws, paying attention to the pads and in between the toes.

The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine recommends examining your dog’s paws. One approach to treat cracked or irritated paws is paw balm, which moisturizes and softens dry, cracked, or damaged pads. However, is not designed to treat medical conditions or injuries, and it won’t protect your dog’s paws from extreme heat or cold. For these situations, dog boots are a better option. The boots should have good traction and must fit almost perfectly, so they are not too tight or too loose.

Persuading your dog to wear paw booties is no simple task. Applying paw wax is an alternative that can provide a protective barrier between your dog’s paws and the icy ground. Paw wax can help naturally condition your dog’s paws and help heal cracked and chapped paw pads and is an especially good option for dogs who live in extreme climates or spend a lot of time outside.

If you have any concerns about your dog’s health or exposure to ice melt or ice itself, consult your veterinarian.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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