Last month, my sister-in-law and my almost-13-year-old niece, Ava, spent two weeks in France, visiting my sister-in-law’s mother and stepfather, who live in Paris. Ava has been a dog lover since before she could walk, so I gave her an assignment, to take photos of dogs in Paris.
I’ve always been interested in the cultural differences between how dogs are handled and treated in different countries and I discussed this with her a bit; she and her mom stopped at my house on their way to the airport, because I dog-sat their little dog, Alice, while they were gone. But, in truth, I wasn’t actually concerned with the photos that Ava might get for me; I had an ulterior motive. Mostly I was trying to give Ava a photography job that would (I hoped) keep her engaged with the living scenery when traveling, to keep her eyes open. Ava has an artistic eye, and as someone who studied photojournalism, I know that being given an assignment to take pictures can sharpen and focus your awareness on your surroundings.
Ava did take and send me some pictures of dogs and dog owners. We’re going to be looking at them and discussing her trip to France at the end of this week, when our family will get together again to celebrate her 13th birthday. But here’s the funny thing: Ava must have told her grandmother that she was taking photos of dogs for me. This morning I received a photo and email from her grandmother, Olivia.
“I heard you need pictures of dogs in France,” Olivia explained. Well, I guess my covert mission needed to be exposed, and I’ve written back to Olivia to recuse her from the assignment and sharing the actual purpose of my assignment for Ava with her.
But after writing the email, I looked at Olivia’s snapshot again. She had actually captured several very interesting things. The longer I look at this photo, which she captioned as “a dog walker in Paris,” the more I see. Look: What do you see?
Here are the things that are most interesting to me:
Of the seven dogs visible in the photo, only one (possibly two) is leashed. Despite this, they are all just hanging out in a relaxed fashion, waiting for their walker, who appears to be taking a snack break.
The two dogs on the right may or may not be with the walker; they are slightly removed from her, whereas the other dogs are arranged in a circle around her. So those two unleashed dogs may simply be waiting for their owners to come out of the store or restaurant. They are unleashed but perfectly safe and comfortable waiting on the sidewalk.
All but one of the dogs resemble purebreds. The dog on the far right might be, too; I’m not familiar enough with all the bully-type breeds to know what she is or might be.
All seven of the dogs are in good weight and look fit. Even French dogs look more slender than their American counterparts!
The white dog on the right appears to be a French Bulldog – but he or she has much more of a nose than the French Bulldogs you see here. I love that the dog’s face isn’t as smushed in the exaggerated way the dogs here often appear.
How do dogs become so habituated and well-behaved that they can safely be taken out with a dog-walker off leash in the middle of a busy city? Are dogs being lost and hit by cars at a rate we Americans would find unacceptable? I’m fascinated – and I just might have to go to Paris to find out! I’m pretty sure I could stay with Olivia…
Dogs have been stealing eggs for thousands of years, and for good reason. Eggs from chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, quail, and other birds are safe, nutrition-boosting additions to any dog’s diet. They can be served raw or cooked, alone or combined with other foods. It’s hard to go wrong with these convenient, affordable, versatile ingredients.
Eggs are high in nutrients that support every part of the canine body. The yolks contain the egg’s vitamins and fatty acids, the whites are almost pure protein, and the shells contain calcium carbonate with a few other minerals. Eggs can be added to dry, canned, frozen, or refrigerated dog foods, fed as between-meal snacks, or used as training treats.
The average large chicken egg (the size sold in most markets) contains 72 calories, 6 grams of protein, and 5 grams of fat. How often and how many eggs to feed depends on your dog’s size, health, condition, and activity level. Some dogs are allergic to eggs but for most dogs, eggs are a tasty and nutritious food.
The US Department of Agriculture recommends storing eggs in their cartons in the coldest part of your refrigerator (not the door) at 40 degrees F or slightly below that. Properly stored raw eggs last three to five weeks from the time you bring them home. After cooking, refrigerated hard-boiled eggs last safely for a week.
How much egg should you feed to your dog?
Individual reactions vary, so start with a small amount and, if you have questions or health concerns, check with your veterinarian. Add a hard-boiled egg or part of one to your pup’s dinner or offer it as a treat and pay attention to her response. Most dogs will want more, and that’s a good sign. If your dog shows any symptoms of indigestion or an allergic reaction, check with your veterinarian.
Assuming your dog enjoys her egg, wait a day or two before offering another. The egg can be poached, fried in a small amount of oil or butter, scrambled, hard-boiled, or soft-boiled.
Canine nutrition researcher Mary Straus at dogaware.com says, “Dogs weighing 40 pounds or more can handle a whole egg, so I’d recommend half an egg (or a whole egg every other day) for dogs weighing 20 to 40 pounds and proportionately less for smaller dogs.”
Can dogs eat raw eggs?
Because raw eggs are associated with salmonella, a bacterial infection that causes fever, vomiting, diarrhea, and lethargy, most veterinarians recommend that eggs be cooked before feeding to your dog. However, many dog owners feed their dogs raw eggs with no ill effects, and veterinarians who promote raw diets claim that the benefit of raw eggs are that they are more nutritious than cooked eggs and that they are usually safe for dogs to eat. Factory farms, in which thousands of chickens are housed close together, are blamed for salmonella outbreaks, while chickens raised outdoors on a small scale are unlikely to be infected.
Another argument against feeding raw eggs is that egg whites contain an enzyme that prevents the absorption of the B vitamin biotin, potentially leading to a deficiency that adversely affects skin, coat, and nail health. However, egg yolks contain large amounts of biotin, so feeding the entire egg eliminates that risk. Biotin deficiencies, while theoretically possible, are rare in dogs.
The easiest way to give your dog a raw egg is to crack one over his dinner.
Can dogs eat eggshells?
Eggshells contain approximately 2,000 mg of elemental calcium per shell, enough to meet the daily needs of an 85-pound dog. Home-prepared diets for dogs that do not include raw bone need to be supplemented with a calcium source, and many people use eggshells for this purpose. The shells should be ground to a powder in a clean coffee grinder or blender.
It’s important to provide a calcium source in your dog’s home-prepared diet –but it’s equally important to provide enough and not too much. To calculate the appropriate amount of eggshells to use as a calcium source for a homemade diet, please see “Calcium in Homemade Dog Food,” WDJ May 2019.
Eggshell powder should never be added to the diet of dogs already eating a nutritionally complete commercial diet, as they will end up receiving far too much calcium. Large-breed puppies in particular can be harmed by excess calcium, especially during the first six months when they’re growing rapidly and aren’t able to control their calcium uptake.
What’s the difference between factory farmed, free-range, and pastured eggs?
The nutritional value of eggs depends on the health of the birds that lay them.
According to Factory Farm Awareness Coalition, most layer hens in the United States spend the bulk of their lives, about two or three years, in closely stacked cages in concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs). Layer hens are bred to lay more than 300 eggs a year. In crowded cages, hens are unable to spread their wings, take dust baths, perch, nest, or lay eggs as they would in nature. When their egg production declines, they are sent to a slaughterhouse.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture defines “free range” chickens as those having access to the outdoors for at least some part of the day, whether the chickens choose to go outside or not. There are no requirements for length of time the chicken must spend outdoors, the size of the outdoor area, or the type of groundcover. Less than 1% of chickens nationwide are raised as “free range.” The remaining 99% spend their lives confined to indoor pens.
The terms “pastured” and “pasture-raised” apply to farm animals that live in grassy fields. While there is no legal definition for the term, pastured chickens are ideally raised on deep-rooted green grass and moved every few days to fresh areas. They are physically active and consume a variety of seeds, insects, worms, and other live foods that they forage themselves.
Small local farms, farmer’s markets, and natural food stores are great sources for maximally nutritious eggs from healthy chickens, ducks, and other birds. Their nutritional quality is reflected in their dark orange yolks and hard shells, and they’re as good for you as they are for your dog.
To find pastured eggs locally and to learn how pastured chicken and their eggs are raised, search online for “pastured eggs” in your area and visit websites such as eatwild.com, getrealchicken.com, theveggan.com/pasture-raised-egg-brands, and localharvest.org. Prices vary by region, but the public’s growing support for pasture-raised poultry, the increasing availability of pastured eggs, and their affordability provide an important nutritional bonus for our best friends.
On sunny days, we rub sunscreen on ourselves and our kids, but what about our dogs? Should we protect them, too? Yes! – some dogs absolutely benefit from sunscreen!
What dogs need sunscreen?
Hairless breeds, dogs with white or thin coats, and dogs with pink or light-pigmented noses and eyelids are at higher risk of sunburn and sun damage than other dogs. So are dogs experiencing hair loss from seasonal shedding, shaving, or health conditions that cause coat thinning. And dogs with “snow nose,” a seasonal pigment change from black to pink, may need winter sun protection.
What sunscreen is safe for dogs?
Sunscreen made specifically for dog is safe for dogs. Unheard of a few decades ago, sun protection products for dogs are widely sold as lotions, sprays, sticks, balms, ointments, and clothing. Some brands claim an “SPF equivalent” rating that compares their products to human sunscreens, such as SPF 15, 30, or 40.
Dog-safe sunscreens do not contain zinc oxide or para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), which are commonly found in human sunscreens and which are toxic to dogs.
When comparing products, look for sunscreens that match your dog’s lifestyle. Some have to be applied 15 to 20 minutes before sun exposure, while quick-drying sprays offer instant protection. Waterproof products are recommended for swimming dogs.
If your dog has sensitive skin, test new products for allergic reactions by applying sunscreen to a small area of bare skin. Check it after 24 to 48 hours for signs of irritation and if it causes a reaction, try a different product.
If your dog’s skin proves too sensitive for any topical sunscreen product, look for sun shirts or sun suits for dogs that cover most of the body. Some protective clothing also repels mosquitoes and other insects. Hats and goggles designed for canine use can be useful as well.
How to protect your dog from the sun
There are two main ways to protect your dog from the sun: dog-safe sunscreen and avoid or limiting intense sun exposure.
Dog sunscreen: Labels indicate how often a sunscreen should be reapplied. Apply sunscreen to areas that will be most exposed to sunlight, yet avoiding eye areas:
the bridge and tip of your dog’s nose
ear tips
skin around the lips
inner thigh
groin
wherever pigmentation is light
If using a lotion that needs time to be absorbed, keep your dog distracted (so he doesn’t lick it off) by playing in the shade or indoors.
Limit sun exposure: Avoid or limit activities during the sun’s most intense exposure times, which are mid-day between 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. Whenever possible, keep your dog in the shade during those hours – and as much as your dog may enjoy soaking up some rays, don’t let your dog lie in the sun, especially on concrete or light-colored surfaces.
How to treat sunburn on dogs
Sunburns develop when dogs are overexposed to ultraviolet light; this can happen in as little as half an hour of sun exposure. Whenever you notice reddened, flaking, or warm-feeling skin, bring your dog indoors or into the shade. Treat your dog with:
Cool water
cool compresses,
dog-safe soothing ointments
aloe vera gel (can help relieve initial sunburn symptoms
Call your veterinarian if the burn is serious. Sunburns worsen allergic dermatitis, autoimmune skin conditions, and mange, and sunlight can trigger discomfort or complications at surgery sites. Any dog with a history of sunburn should be protected from future sun exposure to prevent complications.
It’s been a long day and you’re finally enjoying some quiet time with your dog. Your fingers are coursing through his coat when you feel a small lump on his skin. Parting his fur, you find something fastened to your dog’s skin that looks like a tick. But how do you know it’s a tick?
If a tick has been attached to your dog for more than a day or two, it will be engorged with your dog’s blood. Engorged ticks will have a gray, oval-shaped body with a brown or black head and legs – but note that when a tick is biting and attached to your dog, you won’t be able to see its head. Using a magnifying glass – or perhaps just the zoom feature on your cell phone – you may be able to see a row of waving legs on either side of the engorged body (ticks have eight legs, with four on either side of their bodies, like spiders). If the tick has only recently bitten your dog, it may be as small as the kernel inside a sunflower seed; if it’s been attached for longer, it may be as plump as a grape.
Be cautious if you’ve found a small brown, black, or pink lump on the underside of your dog’s chest or belly; it might be a nipple! Both male and female dogs have nipples. If you are not sure if what you have found is a tick, please contact your veterinarian. They may ask you to send them a picture of what you have found.
What are the different types of ticks found on dogs?
There are a number of species of ticks that are frequently found on dogs; most common are “deer ticks” (also informally called black-legged ticks) and “dog ticks” (Dermacentor variabilis, also called American Dog Ticks, and Brown Dog Ticks, Rhipicephalus sanguineus). Deer ticks are small – before they’ve had a blood meal, they may be as small as a poppy seed. Dog ticks are larger, perhaps as broad as a single pea (though nearly flat before they’ve fed). Depending on the species, dog ticks may have a plain brown body or be brown with red-dotted bodies and a grey “shield” on the back of its “neck” area. Each species of tick carries different bacterial species that can cause disease in the animals that the tick feeds on.
Ticks await their prey by climbing onto grass, trees, and brush and quickly grab onto anything that brushes by them. They can crawl pretty rapidly through your dog’s fur – or equally fast up the leg of your pants!
Ideally, dog owners groom their dogs after they’ve been in any environment frequented by ticks. Brush your dog while looking for any loose or attached ticks – or use a brush and a tape roller in alternating strokes, to loosen and then capture any crawling ticks.
Don’t delay if you find a tick attached to your dog. Remove it right away with a pair of tweezers or use a tick removal tool, such as the Tick Twister, Tick Tornado, or our favorite, the Pro-Tick Remedy. Tick removal tools are available for purchase online or at your favorite pet supply retailer. (See our review of tick-removing tools, “How to Get the Tick Out,” WDJ July 2019.)
Tick removal tools come with instructions on how to remove the tick. If you are using tweezers, hold the tweezers parallel to the skin. Grasp the head of the tick as close to the skin as possible. Pull the tick straight up and away from the skin to remove it.
Once the tick is removed, place the tick in rubbing alcohol or a zipper storage bag and discard it in the trash. You may also flush the tick down the toilet. Do not squeeze the tick! Squeezing the tick could expose you and your dog to the bacteria contained within it.
How NOT To Remove a Tick from a Dog
When it comes to tick removal, there are a number of well-known methods that should be avoided. Don’t use the end of a burnt match or lit cigarette or try to smother the tick with petroleum jelly or nail polish. These old-timey techniques can hurt your dog, increase the amount of time the tick is attached, and cause the tick to release more bacteria or protozoa into the bite site—both of which increase the risk of disease transmission. – Kim Thornton from “Dog Owner’s Guide to Types of Ticks“
Care for a Tick Bite on a Dog After Removal
The dog’s skin where the tick was attached may become raised and red. A scab may develop over the tick attachment site and remain there for a few days. These spots do not typically become infected and do not require an antibiotic cream or ointment. Contact your veterinarian if the tick attachment site grows larger or develops a yellow or green discharge.
Dogs do not develop the red, bullseye rash that some humans do when they have been bitten by a tick that transmitted Lyme disease. However, dogs will sometimes develop a red bullseye lesion about ½-inch in diameter when they have been bitten by black flies or horse flies. These are usually seen on the underbelly of the dog where their fur is thinner and the skin is easier to see. These lesions are typically not itchy and will resolve on their own in a few days.
If you found an attached tick – and especially if you found more than one attached tick – have your dog tested for Lyme and the other tick-borne diseases that are prevalent in your area about four to six weeks after you have removed the tick/s. Talk to your veterinarian about what high quality flea/tick preventative they recommend and use that preventative all year, even in winter. Adult ticks remain active during the winter months in most areas of the United States.
I’m the youngest in my family of origin. My siblings are seven, six, and five years older than me. When I became an adult, my mom said to me more than once, “I hardly remember raising you!” – and the funny thing is, I’m not certain she did! When I was little, it was my middle sister Susan who told me to take showers, brush my teeth, brush my hair, and put on clean clothes in the morning. When I was in high school and she was in college, she was the one asked about the courses I was taking (and what grades I was getting) and talked to me about college. It seems to me that by the time I came along, my parents were tired of raising kids to the high standards they had when my older siblings were little – there are no photographs of me in pristine red velvet dresses with white lace collars and black patent-leather shoes, standing alongside my brother, resplendent in his tiny red velvet suit jacket with matching shorts! There are hardly any pictures of me when I was little at all!
It just occurred to me that other day that I have unwittingly replicated this pattern with my current dogs.
When I first adopted Otto from my local shelter in June 2008, he was about 7 months old. I had been editing WDJ for 10 years at that point, and had learned a lot about care and feeding and training with positive reinforcement. As a “crossover trainer” (someone who originally learned about training dogs with a lot of yanking on choke chains), I was eager to train my new dog “from scratch” as a new convert to positive training. Otto had some behavioral quirks, and I read everything about modifying his anxious behaviors to maximize his confidence. I paid exquisite attention to his diet, vaccinations, dental health – you name it. (This is the canine equivalent of parenting those perfectly coiffed kids in their matching red-velvet outfits and glossy patent-leather shoes.)
When I “foster failed” with Woody in January 2016, I felt a strong responsibility to make sure that my new bully-breed-mix developed into a social dog who would be safe with humans of any and all descriptions. I enrolled him in puppy kindergarten and puppy socials and took pains to introduce him to all kinds of different people and places.
This became my most urgent priority when my friendly, happy-go-lucky puppy entered adolescence and started displaying behaviors that revealed new apprehensions about meeting unfamiliar humans. When he hit about 7 or 8 months old, my super-socialized, confident puppy began hanging back from meeting new people, growling while wagging his tail, with the hair on the back of his neck and shoulders raised. Piloerection (the proper name for that raised hair) is the most compelling evidence that his behavior was due to anxiety; dogs can’t intentionally raise their hackles! (It’s an involuntary response of the sympathetic nervous system associated with a number of emotional states, including fear, arousal, insecurity, defensiveness, and unfamiliarity.)
For our first three years together, I took Woody everywhere, while micromanaging his meetings with anyone new, to make sure he was always comfortable and never scared. Eventually, about 95% of his anxiety when meeting new people has dissipated. Given his size, strength, and intimidating appearance (in the opinion of some people), I still strive to make sure that he’s never put in a position to be scared of humans and that no one is frightened of him, so that all parties concerned can behave normally and not freak each other out.
In other words, I “parented” the heck out of my first two dogs.
Which brings me to Boone – the youngest child in the family. Somehow, with the demands of work, family-related travel, and Covid, I never got him signed up for puppy classes or puppy socials (he attended two puppy socials with a friend who was thinking about adopting him, back when I was still on the fence about keeping him). I keep saying I will sign up for an adolescent dog training class, but haven’t yet! (I have more travel on the horizon! And my son’s wedding coming up! And likely more excuses!)
By this age, Otto and Woody both had snappy sits, solid downs, and reliable recalls. They walked nicely with me on leash and off. And speaking of “Off,” we worked on this behavior all the time, so when we saw a snake on the trail, I could ask them to “leave it” and knew that they would come right back to me on cue. Oy! Boone has a nice sit and down, and comes when I call when he’s out wandering around my property, but we’ve barely worked on any formal behaviors.
And yet, with barely any training or conscious socializing at all, he’s done just fine anywhere I’ve taken him, from a dog-related conference at a hotel in the San Francisco Bay Area, to friends’ houses in towns and the country, in cars, trucks, and elevators. He walks nicely on leash – even though I have worked on this behavior only twice that I can recall. No matter where we go or what we do, he’s relaxed, confident, and friendly – with only one exception: He has a tendency to be “guardy” about high-value food around other dogs, so I manage any situation where I have food and other dogs are present fairly assiduously. Other than that he’s been easy-peasy!
I’m not proud of the fact that Boone is growing up with little planned education or checklisted socialization plans – but I am pleased with how he’s turning out, regardless. I think I have to give all the credit to middle-child Woody for raising this puppy!
I confess: Every once in a while, I take advantage of my role as WDJ’s editor and ask an author to write about something that I, personally, need to learn about for the health of my own dog or dogs. There is an article in this very issue that meets this description.
Nope, it’s not the one that my new puppy modeled for (that’s Boone on page 8, hanging out in our outdoor kennel). I have long used a kennel to contain stray dogs (while looking for their owners) and for litters of foster puppies (when I have them). And I’ve long been a fan of teaching my dogs to chill and be chill when kept in short-term confinement in a kennel.
But this does concern Boone. For months now, he’s been exhibiting a behavior that none of my other dogs have ever been prone to: resource-guarding. And the first time I saw it was sort of dramatic.
One day, when Boone was about 14 weeks old, I was helping an 84-year-old friend with the 10-month-old Border Collie she had recently adopted from our local shelter (that’s a story for another day). After a session of showing my friend how to improve her dog’s on-leash behavior by engaging and rewarding the dog’s attention while walking off-leash (one of my favorite training techniques), I asked my friend if she’d like her pup to play with my pup. I let Boone out of my office, and the two young dogs started to romp and wrestle. It was all fun and games, until my friend happened to give Boone a treat when he approached her in greeting.
In his aroused state, he immediately decided my friend and her treats were a resource that were well-worth guarding from the visiting dog – her own dog! – and he went from playful to hostile in a split second. He spun around and went right after the little Border Collie, growling and snarling. She ran away, yelping, and he came right back to stand guard next to my astonished friend, wagging his tail but with all his fur standing on end. “Don’t worry, ma’am, our treats are safe from that dog!”
Fortunately, I knew enough not to punish Boone. I picked him up and carried him back to my office to let him calm down. No harm was done, the young dogs have played together without incident (and without treats on hand!) several times since then, and I now have knowledge about Boone that I need to be aware of. And, boy, am I conscious about this, because the last thing in the world I want is for Boone to covet and make a play for anything that rightfully belongs to the king of the castle, my senior dog, Otto. I asked WDJ’s Training Editor, Pat Miller to write the article about resource-guarding in puppies; I’ve learned a lot, and it has really helped. I hope it helps you, too.
You would think by now I’d have learned my lesson and stopped telling people that their dogs are overweight. After all, I nearly lost one of my best friends over a spontaneous comment I made when I saw her dog for the first time in months – and the dog had positively ballooned in size since I had last seen her. (I blurted, “OMG! What happened to Carly? She got so fat!” And my friend didn’t talk to me for months after that.) But it seems like people just don’t recognize fat dogs when they have one!
I usually manage to hold my tongue when it comes to strangers’ fat dogs. But not long ago I was attending a “puppy social” class with my new puppy Boone, and I saw a Labrador who probably weighed 50 pounds. Mind you, this was a class for puppies who were less than 20 weeks old. I felt that itch. “NO!” I told myself, “Don’t say anything!” But after the owner of the Lab asked how old Boone was, and I politely asked how old her pup was, it just burst out of me. “How much does your pup weigh?” I asked. And I added (tactfully, I thought), “She’s gigantic!”
“Oh, yes, she’s going to be a big dog,” the owner replied, laughing. “Both of her parents weigh more than 100 pounds. She’s just big!” But the puppy wasn’t just big, she was positively obese!
Anywhere there are dogs, whether at the pet supply store, dog park, or dog-training class, I find myself channeling the spirit of a combination Oprah Winfrey/canine diet proponent and pronouncing (but just inside my head): “Your dog is fat! And your dog is fat! And your dog is fat!”
Look, I’m overweight, too. But this is a result of fully conscious choices I make for myself; I know what the result will be when I consume too many calories and don’t exercise enough. But our dogs don’t have any such understanding; their food intake and access to exercise – and thus, their body weight and condition – are completely up to us. When our dogs are overweight, it’s our fault. Period!
Why do I care? How have I turned into the fat-dog sheriff? Why does it bother me so much when people allow their dogs to become so overweight?
Here’s why: Dogs who are maintained at a healthy weight have a lower risk than fat dogs for many life-threatening health problems, including diabetes, kidney disease, metabolic and endocrine disorders, hypertension, and some forms of cancer. Older dogs with arthritis can remain ambulatory and active much longer if they are slender. Dogs with a lean body mass have fewer injuries to bones, muscles, and tendons than dogs who are carrying excess weight – and studies have shown that they live, on average, about two years longer than overweight dogs.
And it’s bad enough to see overweight older dogs. You are doing your dog a huge disservice if he’s under a year old and is already overweight. Make a growing puppy carry a lot of extra weight on his immature joints and you are practically signing him up for the development of painful arthritis at a prematurely young age.
HOW TO HELP YOUR DOG LOSE WEIGHT
So what how do you help your dog to lose weight? I thought you’d never ask.
1. Get an accurate, honest assessment of your dog’s condition. Make an appointment for your dog’s annual health examination. At that visit, let your veterinarian know that you are concerned about your dog’s weight and want her professional opinion: How much should your dog weigh, ideally?
Every time I have offered my opinion to friends or family that I think their dogs are overweight – I’ve already admitted that this happens a lot – their first response is always the same: “Really? My vet has never mentioned that!”
I suspect that many veterinarians are gun-shy when it comes to bringing up this topic with their clients; it probably makes most people defensive! But if you ask your vet for her opinion, and remain open and receptive to her answer, you just might learn that she’s been keeping her true opinion about your dog’s condition to herself. If she hesitates or waffles at all, ask a different question: “Do you think he should lose a little weight? Would he be healthier if he lost some weight?”
2 Record a baseline and set a goal. Using the scales at your vet’s office, get an accurate weight for your dog. Write it down, along with the date. You could also use a cloth tape measure and record your dog’s girth just behind his front legs, at the widest place around his ribs, and where his “waist” is supposed to be (just behind his ribs).
Knowing your dog’s ideal waist measurement is probably impossible, but your vet should have been able to give you a number to strive for in terms of an ideal weight for your dog.
3. Aim for a weight loss of 3% to 5% of your dog’s body weight per month, or 1% per week. A 50-pound dog should lose about half a pound per week, or 2 pounds per month.
4. Feed your dog fewer calories. The number of calories your dog should be fed in order to maintain her ideal weight – not her current weight – is referred to as her “resting energy requirement (RER).” To determine your dog’s RER, convert her ideal weight in pounds to kilograms by dividing by 2.2. Then multiply that number by 30 and add 70.
Say I have a dog who weighs 100 pounds, but who should weigh about 90 pounds. Ninety pounds divided by 2.2 is 40.9 kg. Now I multiply by 30 and add 70:
40.9 x 30 = 1,227 + 70 = 1,297
1,297. That’s how many calories per day I should feed the 100-pound dog whose ideal weight is around 90 pounds. Now go check the number of calories in the food you give your dog. The food my dog is eating right now contains 380 calories per cup. So I’ll divide the number of calories my hypothetical fat dog should be getting by the number of calories in each cup of food:
1,297 ÷ 380 = 3.41 cups of food
“But wait!,” you say. “On the label of the food I feed my dog, it says I should be feeding a dog who weighs between 75 and 100 pounds between 4 3/4 and 5 1/2 cups of food per day!” What can I say? That’s probably how your dog ended up overweight! The sad fact is, most dog food labels overestimate dogs’ RER. They generally cover for this by adding the note, “Adjust feeding for optimal body weight.”
The moral of my example: Look at your dog’s food label to get the caloric content of the food, and calculate how much you should be feeding him based on his RER.
This amount may need to be adjusted in some cases. Dogs who are substantially overweight may do best with an interim target weight (rather than their ultimate ideal weight) to start with. Very active dogs may require up to 1.4 times their RER to keep their weight loss at a safe rate of no more than 5% per month. Puppies who are 4 months and older may need as much as 2 times their RER.
Of course, this addresses only the dog’s basic diet. If you feed a lot of treats, check the caloric content of the treats and reduce your dog’s food by about the amount of calories you are feeding him in treats. Because dog foods are complete and balanced and treats are not, however, you shouldn’t replace too many of his food calories with treats.
Most dogs care more about the number of treats they get than the size of each treat; it’s more rewarding for a dog to receive several small treats than one big one. Using tiny treats will help you reward your dog without adding too many extra calories.
5. Weigh your dog frequently, especially when first starting a weight-loss program – at least once a week. If your dog is too heavy to pick up, you’ll need to go to your veterinarian’s office in order to get an accurate weight.
Once your dog begins losing weight steadily, you can go longer between weigh-ins, but recheck at least twice a month to make sure you’re still on track. It’s easy to slip back into giving too much food and undo much of the good you’ve done if you rely solely on how your dog looks and feels. By the time you notice a difference, your dog could have gained a lot of weight back.
6. Increase your dog’s exercise –but slowly. Regular exercise is also an essential component of a successful weight-loss program. Proper exercise not only burns calories, but also helps to burn fat and build muscle, improving body condition. As your dog loses weight and gains muscle, he will feel better and become more active, which will speed up the weight-loss process.
If your dog is not used to exercise, don’t try to do too much too soon. Start with very short sessions tailored to your dog’s capabilities, such as on-leash walks that gradually lengthen as your dog’s exercise tolerance increases. Don’t exercise your dog to the point where he is sore afterward. Non-weight-bearing exercise, such as swimming, is ideal for dogs with joint problems, and for other dogs as well. Again, start slowly, using a dog life jacket if that helps him to feel more comfortable in the water.
If your dog is older or has health problems, consult with your veterinarian before beginning an exercise program. If your dog is really reluctant to exercise, it could be a sign that something’s wrong. A trial of pain medication can help you figure out whether your dog’s lack of activity is related to discomfort.
7. Keep your eyes on the prize: more time to enjoy with a healthier, happier dog. Your dog may not be happy about his new diet at first; he may start begging, counter-surfing, and even going through the kitchen trash, looking for a few extra calories. Give him a carrot to munch on – but don’t give in and give him fatty treats. Soon enough, as you begin to spend more time with him walking, and as his body begins to feel lighter and less burdened with all that extra weight, he’ll start to enjoy those walks more and worry less about how many kibbles are in his bowl.
You just brought your new puppy home and you can’t wait to head out on that first walk. You’ve been picturing this happy moment forever. You pop on the leash, swing open the door and . . . your puppy won’t move. Huh.
So you pull her a little, thinking she just has to get into the swing of things. But now she’s flat-out refusing. She has planted herself. Elbows locked.
Weird.
When you try again later, she gets a whole 10 feet down the walkway before the brakes come on. You pick her up and try carrying her a bit. When you set her down, she’ll walk all right – straight back to the house, desperately straining the whole way.
If you’re like most folks, you’re mystified – and a little disappointed. After all, aren’t dogs supposed to like walks more than anything else?
SENSIBLE SELF-PRESERVATION
The truth is, it makes total sense when a puppy is hesitant to head out on a leash with her new owner. As stunned as you are at this turn of events, look at it from the puppy’s perspective:
This first week, your new pup is suddenly in a completely new environment without the canine family she’s always known.
Previously, any new experience took place surrounded by littermates, but she has to process this leash-and-walk thing all alone.
This may be her first day wearing a collar – a strange thing snug around her neck.
This may be her first moment with a leash attached to that collar, adding pressure that might make her feel trapped. (Just because we humans are used to seeing dogs on leash does not mean it is natural for them!)
It’s possible that her only prior outdoor time has been the same yard every time. As you open the door, she is overwhelmed by completely new smells, sounds, and sights. Maybe she’s never gone down steps before, or heard a car, or seen a kid on a bike. She needs to process all of that at her pace.
As nice as you are, remember you’re still a relative stranger to your puppy, so your presence may not yet be very reassuring.
So, it’s not shocking when a new puppy hates her first walk. In fact, it’s surprising when she likes it – and it likely means she had a good breeder or foster home where somebody took the time to introduce things beautifully! But never fear. Follow these steps and you’ll be happily walking together soon.
SLOW DOWN WHEN LEASH TRAINING YOUR DOG
The key is simple: Use your own empathy as a guide, and break this overwhelming experience into smaller, digestible pieces:
Spend the first afternoon with just a light little collar on the pup (not a wide leather collar with a heavy buckle). Distract the pup with fun toys and play so she doesn’t just sit around thinking about how itchy, strange, or distracting that collar is. It may take minutes, hours, or days to get used to.
To create positive feelings about the collar, give the pup special treats (such as a morsel of turkey or cheese) whenever you put her collar on.
When she’s okay with a collar, start attaching a light kitty leash she can drag around inside for five minutes at a time. (And, again, give her a treat every time.) The pup may try to bite the leash. Keep up some fun distractions to minimize that. The goal is to see from the pup’s body language that she’s not freaked out by the feeling of the leash.
Once the pup is more relaxed about the leash, start picking up the end of the leash from time to time, but follow pup closely so that there’s as little pressure as possible on her neck.
Going well? Then try all of this outside in the yard.
While you’re doing these exercises to get pup accustomed to the collar and leash, also take baby steps in terms of getting her used to all the new outdoor sights and sounds. Sit together on your front stoop, watching the world go by, enjoying a tiny piece of hot dog when trucks, dogs, or kids on skateboards pass.
Getting to this point – a pup who’s mellow about walking around the yard with you holding the leash – may take three minutes or three days. Whatever it takes is just fine!
And as for all these fun distractions you’ve been using to take the pup’s mind off the collar and the leash? Keep them around! The fun voice, the bent knees and eye contact, the dancing steps, the clapping hands, the sing-song voice, the treats – and the lack of pressure in your vibe? Bring all of that with you as you begin to take this leash experience on the road!
Mind you, if you live in a city with no option except a leashed walk for going to the bathroom, obviously all of this has to be compressed, unless you use pee pads. Still, an empathetic mindset will help you find small ways to make this more comfortable.
Use your own yard (or hallway) to get your puppy comfortable with the feeling of the leash. Let her drag it at first, and distract her with yummy treats, a happy voice, and maybe a squeaky toy. Move along with your pup as she explores, so that the leash doesn’t tighten and create panic in this early stage.
START WITH A COLLAR WHEN LEASH TRAINING; USE A HARNESS LATER
You may notice that I keep talking about collars instead of harnesses. Many folks start right away with a harness, but in my opinion that just adds to the “Oh my gosh what the heck are you putting on me” reaction.
It’s certainly easier to get used to the feeling of a light collar than a big contraption that might pull or bind in several places. For me, a martingale (limited-slip) collar is ideal for the first few weeks of walking: easy to put on, light to wear, and totally secure. (We like the Martingale Collar with Quick Snap Buckle from petsafe.net.) I wait until I’ve built more confidence with a pup to add the extra hurdle of a harness.
ENLIST A DOGGY ESCORT
By far the fastest way to get a puppy to walk forward enthusiastically is to pair her with an experienced furry friend. It is hilarious to watch a pup who was utterly refusing to move suddenly trot off happily the second another dog walks by!
If you can scout out a neighbor with a wonderful, calm, adult dog, recruit that team to help you with three walks in three days. More than likely that’ll be all it takes to convince your pup that it’s just fine to be out and about.
Two things to watch out for:
Be sure not to use a dog who gets barky on walks! The pup is ready to pick up on anything the bigger dog is feeling, which is why we specifically want to pair that pup with a calm, easy-going walker who will take in stride everything you pass.
Most likely, the puppy will try to jump up on the bigger dog, grab their leash, and generally get in the way. That’s normal! Just put more space between the dogs, and use treats and your charismatic voice and vibe to redirect pup’s interest to you from time to time.
ZIG-ZAGS, WIGGLES, SNIFFING OKAY!
The primary goal of the first few weeks of walking is to get the puppy out and about and feeling great about the world. You can never get the first four sponge-like months of a puppy’s life back, and only with leash walks can you make the most of it. (There’s just not enough new stuff to learn about inside our own homes.)
We want to deeply instill the lesson that novelty is just fine – before biology starts to tell the pup that anything she hasn’t seen yet could be a threat. The only way to do that is to expose the puppy, carefully and always at her comfort level, to new sights, smells, sounds, and situations.
Given that the giant priority is keeping pup feeling happy, this is not the time for, say, instilling a picture-perfect heel. Instead, this is a time to bring that pouch filled with yummy stuff, and teach the pup that you, walks, and new things are often paired with food. This is also a time to let pup sniff to her heart’s content, because every “sniffari” helps her learn enormously about the world, which builds confidence.
Don’t get frustrated if that means your walks seem small; they’re not small to the pup who’s just used her nose to “meet” 15 dogs, three kids, and a senior citizen! There is plenty of time for you to teach your dog a different kind of walk, where you’re both walking swiftly ahead together. Right now, though, as your brand-new puppy learns what the world has to offer, walks filled with zig-zags, wiggles, and sniffs are perfect.
Yes, You Should take Your Pup for Walks Before the Last Puppy 'Shot'
Maybe you’re thinking: “But wait! We can’t walk our puppy off our property until her parvo/distemper shots are done at 4 months!” If so we ask that you – and your veterinarian – review the latest guidance on the behavioral importance of a more nuanced, less black-and-white approach. In short: It’s imperative for your puppy’s behavioral health that you bring her out and about –you just have to be smart about it!
This isn’t just our opinion; you can take comfort in knowing that today’s veterinary leaders no longer advise keeping puppies wrapped in cotton until they are five months or more. Read the following – and share it with your vet, too!
From the American Veterinary Medical Association’s “Literature Review on the Welfare Implications of Socialization of Puppies”:
By 8 to 9 weeks of age, most dogs are sufficiently neurologically developed that they are ready to start exploring unfamiliar social and physical environments. Data show that if they are prohibited from doing so until after 14 weeks of age they lose such flexibility and may be forever fearful [our emphasis] in these situations. Such dogs may function well within extremely restricted social situations but will be fearful and reactive among unfamiliar people, pets or in environments outside of the house.
From the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviorists’ (ASVAB)
“Position Statement on Puppy Socialization”:
The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli, and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over-stimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, ASVAB believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated . . .
Incomplete or improper socialization during this important time can increase the risk of behavioral problems later in life . . .
While puppies’ immune systems are still developing during these early months, the combination of maternal immunity, primary vaccination, and appropriate care makes the risk of infection relatively small compared to the chance of death from a behavioral problem.
The odds are high that your pup will be incredibly difficult to live with if you fail to introduce her to the world in her first few months. If your pup has already received one or two vaccinations, and you are educated and careful about where you go – avoiding unknown dogs and places where many dogs or wildlife frequent – the odds are low that she’d become infected with parvo or distemper while you do that important work.
Almost all pet supply stores now carry a variety of probiotic supplements for dogs. Check the side and back labels and make sure the species of helpful microorganisms are listed and the amounts of each number in the billions. We also recommend buying products that carry a seal from the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC), which provides quality checks for manufacturers.
Probiotics (“friendly” or beneficial microorganisms) are everywhere these days – in all kinds of foods and supplements designed for humans and dogs. People used to wonder, “What do probiotics do?” Today, we might wonder what they don’t do, for manufacturers claim that their products improve digestion and reduce symptoms of diarrhea, allergies, dental problems, kidney disease, urinary tract infections, anxiety, depression, arthritis, impaired immunity, inflammation, skin and coat conditions, bad breath, obesity – and even problematic anxious behavior!
For that last claim, at least, there is some decent evidence (see “Behavioral Probiotics,” WDJ August 2020). But very few clinical trials support the full range of advertising claims for canine probiotics. In March 2017, the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association published a meta-analysis that reviewed 17 probiotic studies involving dogs and cats. The most encouraging studies found only weak support for the treatment of diagnosed conditions, and all recommended further research.
In contrast, many veterinarians and owners who prescribe or give probiotics to their dogs cite positive anecdotal evidence that beneficial bacteria have helped their dogs. Their enthusiastic recommendations are not disproven but are not well supported by science-based evidence, either.
WHAT ARE PROBIOTICS & WHAT DO PROBIOTICS DO FOR DOGS?
“Probiotic” is a catchall label for any living bacteria or microorganism present in your body that is beneficial to or supportive of your health. If present in sufficient numbers, these bacteria starve or crowd out harmful microbes by depriving them of nutrients and space in the microbiome, a community of bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other microbes in the body, especially the digestive tract. Probiotics may also secrete chemicals that can kill pathogenic bacteria and even viruses.
The risks of experimenting with probiotics appear to be low. Adverse side effects are rare. Probiotic supplements do not promote antibiotic resistance in other bacteria and are not themselves pathogenic. Severely immunocompromised dogs should be given probiotics only under veterinary supervision, but for most dogs, probiotics are considered safe.
TYPES OF PROBIOTICS FOR DOGS
Though there are countless species of microorganisms that could be considered as probiotics, there are only a dozen or so that are frequently found in supplements manufactured for use in humans and dogs. Here are a few of the most common dog probiotics:
Lactobacillus bacterial species ferment sugar into lactic acid, preventing harmful bacteria from growing in the intestine. These bacteria are used in the production of fermented foods such as yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, and pickles. Lactobacillus acidophilus, L. casei, and L. rhamnosus often appear in probiotic supplements intended for dogs. Note that L. casei has been thought to increase anxiety in dogs, but that association has not been demonstrated in clinical trials.
Soil-based organisms (SBOs) occur naturally in soil and water, though today’s population of SBOs is a fraction of what it was before the adoption of herbicides, pesticides, and factory-farming methods. Most SBOs survive stomach acid, heat, and exposure to antibiotics; they do not require refrigeration and are not made from dairy products. Bacillus coagulans,B. indicus, and B. subtilis are SBOs considered safe for dogs.
Saccharomyces boulardii is not a bacterium but rather a beneficial yeast. It treats acute and chronic diarrhea and yeast infections in humans, and it is said to have a similar effect on dogs. When used concurrently with antibiotics, S. boulardi helps protect beneficial gut bacteria from the damage caused by the antibiotics.
CHOOSING A PROBIOTIC FOR YOUR DOG
Probiotic supplements come as pills, capsules, powders, soft treats, enhanced foods, and live-culture yogurt and kefir. Most dogs accept probiotics willingly, especially if they are combined with favorite foods.
The probiotic marketplace is confusing because there are so many species of beneficial microorganisms, only a few of which have been studied. Conclusions based on human or laboratory animal research may not apply to dogs.
We recommend shopping for probiotics from well-known manufacturers whose products are clearly labeled with species and strain, such as Bifidobacterium animalis (strain AHC7) or Enterococcus faecium (strain SF68), which are recommended for dogs with acute diarrhea.
Check labels for the product’s strength measured in colony-forming units (CFUs), which estimate the number of viable microorganism cells capable of reproducing in a sample. Most veterinary sources recommend 1 to 10 billion CFUs daily for dogs. Products that measure their CFUs in the millions or lower numbers are likely to be ineffective.
Feed the 'Good Guys' with Prebiotics
Prebiotics are indigestible food ingredients that nourish or feed beneficial bacteria, improving the host animal’s health. Most prebiotics consists of soluble, fermentable fibers such as fructooligosaccharides (FOS) and bacteria-supporting fibers from inulin, larch trees, pectins, beet pulp, and gums such as guar gum.
Because they are natural partners, prebiotics are often combined with probiotics in supplements. The small amounts of prebiotic fiber in such products are unlikely to cause problems, but when given by themselves, fiber supplements should be used with caution. Too much soluble fiber can lead to gas and loose stools. It’s important that dogs drink enough water when taking fiber supplements, so add water to your dog’s food if needed.
FOOD SOURCES OF PROBIOTICS FOR DOGS
If your dog enjoys dairy (see “Dogs and Dairy Products,” May 2022), an easy way to provide abundant populations of probiotics while saving money is to make your own yogurt or kefir. Both foods can be made with commercial “starter” powders or a tablespoon of active-culture yogurt or kefir. Yogurt usually contains only a few bacterial strains while kefir may contain over 60. Search online for video demonstrations of the culturing processes or check with starter manufacturers for details.
When introducing freshly made yogurt or kefir, start with small amounts, such as 1 teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight added to your dog’s dinner. Wait 24 hours and watch for digestive problems such as diarrhea.
If your dog enjoys the taste and feels well, add more the next day. Several experts say to feed up to 2 tablespoons yogurt or kefir per 20 pounds of body weight per day, but many dogs in excellent health eat significantly more. Monitor your dog’s response and check with your veterinarian for best results.
DOSING PROBIOTICS FOR YOUR DOG
Check labels for expiration dates and storage instructions (some probiotics require refrigeration), and follow instructions for use.
If your dog suffers from a condition for which a specific strain of beneficial bacteria is recommended, follow label directions or administer the product as your veterinarian suggests. While your veterinarian may recommend a single-strain probiotic for the treatment of a specific condition, many experts recommend alternating between different strains or cycling through products that contain varying multiple strains.
The side effects of probiotics for dogs are usually temporary because the intestinal microbiome reverts to its pre-supplementation condition shortly after probiotics are discontinued. Because probiotics can be expensive and may be ineffective or incorrectly labeled, watch for improvements within a few weeks as a way of determining whether the supplement is making a difference.
At last! You have an opportunity to travel, go on vacation, or attend a fabulous “destination wedding.” But what about your best friend? Who will take care of your dog while you’re away from home?
In addition to friends, family, dog day care facilities, and boarding kennels, consider hiring a professional pet sitter. Pet sitters are substitute caregivers. They help dogs live their usual lives with as little disruption as possible. There are pet sitters who double as house sitters, staying in your home while you’re away; sitters who visit your home during the day to feed, water, and walk your dog; and sitters who care for your dog in their home.
Look for pet sitters with the help of recommendations from friends, veterinarians, or dog trainers; through newspaper or online ads or social media; or through the websites of professional organizations like the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (petsitters.org) or Professional United Pet Sitters (petsits.com).
CREDENTIALS TO LOOK FOR IN A DOG SITTER
A professional pet sitter should:
Have a business license.
Be insured and bonded.
Provide references you can check such as from previous clients.
Offer a contract that clearly defines payment arrangements, cancellation policies, and daily responsibilities.
Discuss your pets’ needs in detail so that your pet sitter understands:
Your dog’s personality, normal appetite, activity level, interests, and daily routines.
All of the pets involved (dogs, cats, etc.)
When and what to feed your pets.
What exercises or play time to provide.
How and when to clean up pet messes or change litter boxes, if applicable.
How and when to administer pet medications, if needed.
Don’t assume that your pet sitter will do things the way you do them.
Questions to ask a dog sitter:
What experience does he or she have with dogs? This can include dog training or dog walking, work as a veterinary technician, or years of dog-sitting experience.
What experience does he or she have with your type of dog? This can include your dog’s age, breed, size, or background (recently adopted from a shelter, for example, or recovering from an illness or surgery). If the sitter has little experience with the needs of your type of dog but is willing to try, make sure you observe the sitter work with your dog before you sign a contract. If, for example, the sitter has trouble getting a harness and leash on your bouncy adolescent dog, or managing your dog-reactive dog on a walk, this probably isn’t the best dog/sitter match.
How does the pet sitter reward dogs? You’ll want to hire a sitter whose training methods match yours.
What is the sitter’s availability (days of the week, times of day, etc.)?
HOW MUCH TO PAY A DOG SITTER
Cost estimates may be posted at a pet sitter’s website. Fees vary, with pet sitters in large cities charging more than those in suburbs or rural areas. Most professional pet sitters nationwide charge an average of $25 for a 30-minute visit or more depending on your location, the number and type of pets you have, the length of each visit, and any additional services needed. Someone hired as a house sitter (rather than pet sitter) while you’re away may be able to care for your pets for an added fee.
Typical pet-sitting rates for one dog average:
$25 per half-hour visit
$20 to $40 per day
$40 to $85 per night
$250 to $375 per week
Expect additional fees for multiple pets, holidays, bathing, or special requirements, such as for puppies or dogs who need extra care, taking the dog to veterinary or grooming appointments, or dealing with behavioral issues that require extra effort or experience. Add $5 per visit for holidays or for dogs who need extra attention, such as young puppies.
Dog sitters trained in pet CPR and first aid may charge more. Tips of 15% to 20% of the total bill are appropriate and appreciated.
Overnight or 24/7 stays can be expensive, but there are benefits to having a responsible person in your home while you’re away. Your home remains occupied, your pets have company throughout the night, and someone is on hand in case of emergency or illness. A pet sitter who doubles as a house sitter can bring in the mail, water the lawn and houseplants, check windows and doors for security, and maintain a visible presence in your home, which helps deter break-ins.
PREVENT DISASTERS
Search online for “dog sitter disaster” and you can find plenty: runaway and lost dogs, preventable injuries, property damage, unaddressed illnesses, or sitters who simply didn’t show up.
Nightmares go the other way, too. Pet sitters have been prevented from entering a house because a duplicate key didn’t work (no one tested it before giving it to the dog walker), or a security code was changed, or a lock box was hidden too well or frozen shut. A neighbor with a key might let the dog out without telling the dog sitter, or the neighbor may not know a dog sitter is coming and assume that someone is breaking into the house. If you know your neighbors, be sure to inform them that a pet sitter will be visiting.
To avoid misunderstandings and prevent disasters:
Make a checklist of daily activities and responsibilities. This includes information about food (where it is, how much and when to feed, and what foods or treats to avoid).
Write detailed instructions based on your checklist, but focus on the most important points. Multiple pages of instructions may be skipped over or ignored. Ask a friend to read your list for clarity.
Leave emergency phone numbers for your veterinarian, a friend, or family member who lives close by, and secondary contact information for you (such as the number of the place where you will be staying).
Include in your checklist any information that your pet sitter should know, such as how and when to administer prescription medicine. Explain any challenging behaviors your dog has to be sure the sitter can deal with them, such as reactive or aggressive behavior; extreme shyness; or a fear of men, children, or other dogs.
Explain where the dog’s leash, collar, harness, other equipment, or favorite toys are, how your dog behaves on walks, and how you motivate and reward your dog.
Add anything that will help your dog feel comfortable and relaxed while you’re away.
Review the checklist with your dog sitter to be sure your instructions are understood. At the same time, review the dog sitter’s contract to be sure you understand the sitter’s fee structure, payment methods, cancellation policy, and other details. Make an appointment and be willing to pay for this clarifying time; don’t try to do this right before you leave, with an Uber driver waiting outside. That’s how important instructions get missed!
HELP YOUR DOG ADJUST TO YOUR ABSENCE
To help your dog feel comfortable while you’re away, leave her alone for short periods and invite your pet sitter to stop by for meet-and-greet sessions. If your dog suffers from separation anxiety or other challenges, study the recommendations of leading dog trainers and address these issues with appropriate training methods long before you leave.
The more you plan before you go, the more you and your dog will enjoy your time apart.
If your dog has discharge from just one eye, you definitely need to look for a foreign object in or injury to that eye. Call your veterinarian: medication may be needed.
A weeping, oozing, gummy, or crusty discharge from one or both of your dog’s eyes might be nothing – a result of the eye’s natural cleansing process – or caused by allergies, infection, illness, or injury. How can you tell what’s normal and what requires veterinary attention?
In a nutshell, if your dog is squinting, blinking, pawing or rubbing at the eyes, or if you see an excessive or bloody discharge, or if just one eye is affected with symptoms like these, your dog may have an eye injury, infection, or damage that needs a veterinarian’s expertise.
CRUSTY EYE DISCHARGE
A crusty discharge is a familiar symptom caused by dried tears, natural oils, dead cells, dust, or mucus. The discharge is often clear or reddish brown and appears in the morning or after a long nap. If it’s consistent from day to day and if your dog isn’t squinting, blinking, or rubbing his eyes, simply wipe the crust away with a warm, damp cloth, sterile gauze, cotton ball, tissue, or canine eye wipe grooming product.
A sterile saline solution from your local pharmacy is a safe preliminary treatment for most eye discharge problems, as is plain warm water. The application of human eyedrops is not recommended for dogs.
With clean hands and damp applicator, start at the inner corner of the eye and wipe gently, moving outward, using soft strokes. Don’t rub directly over the eyeball. Use a separate gauze or cotton ball for the other eye. Clean the eyes daily or as needed. If the crusty discharge is excessive, take a picture and contact your veterinarian.
WATERY EYES
Excessive eye watering, called epiphora, may be caused by allergies, exposure to irritants such as pollen in the eye, rolled-in eyelashes (called entropion), corneal wounds, blocked tear ducts, or increased eye pressure (glaucoma). Mild tearing is not a medical emergency and observing the eyes for a few days while keeping the area dry with a soft cloth is a sensible strategy. If the eyes continue to water, become red and painful, or develop other kinds of discharge, see your veterinarian.
GUMMY, MUCUS EYE DISCHARGE
Gummy, sticky mucus that makes the eyelids stick together can be a symptom of keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS) or “dry eye,” an auto-immune disorder that interferes with tear production and results in red, painful eyes or open sores.
Veterinarians use the simple, inexpensive Schirmer Tear Test to differentiate KCS from other conditions that produce eye mucus. It’s important to know what to look for with this condition, since it’s fairly common, very uncomfortable for the dog, and can lead to blindness.
Artificial tears and immune-suppressing drugs like tacrolimus or cyclosporine are often prescribed, and when those treatments fail, surgery is an option. An ongoing gummy, sticky discharge requires medical attention.
COLORED EYE DISCHARGE
A pink or red eye discharge that gets its color from blood can be caused by a recent injury. Some research has shown a connection between the yeast Malassezia pachydermatis and corneal ulcers, which can cause reddish tears. See your veterinarian for this symptom.
A green or yellow eye discharge may come from an eye infection, especially if the eyes look red and appear painful, or the cause may be conjunctivitis, an inflammation of the lining of your dog’s eye. Conjunctivitis can be caused by allergies, injury, tear duct problems, dry eye, birth defects, and even distemper or tumors.
If the eyes are red and the dog blinks frequently, squints, paws at her eyes, or keeps her eyes closed, see your veterinarian. Treatment may include removing an irritant; applying pain medication; treating infection with antibiotics and saline washes; administering antihistamines for allergies; or performing surgery to repair birth defects or tear duct problems.
Chihuahuas and other breeds with slightly bulgy eyes often suffer from excessive tearing and tear stains, as their tear ducts have to work overtime to keep their eyes lubricated. Keep track of what’s normal for your dog, and investigate if the tears or stains increase.
Tear stains at the inner corners of the eye develop because porphyrin, a pigment in tears, turns reddish brown when exposed to air. Tear stains are sometimes called Poodle stains because they are so obvious on the faces of small, light-coated dogs. If the eyes are otherwise healthy, tear stains are a cosmetic rather than medical problem.
To minimize stains, wipe the eyes with a damp cloth or canine eye-cleaning solution; keep the area dry with a soft cloth or tissue; try a grooming product that reduces tear staining; and keep hair around the eyes trimmed short. Schedule an eye exam if the staining increases, its appearance changes, or your dog’s eyes become red and painful.
Flat-faced Bulldogs, Boxers, Pekingese, and Pugs have shallower eye sockets and more protruding eyes than other breeds; the increased exposure to the air means the eyes require more tears to keep them lubricated. Another problem these dogs can display are inwardly rolled eyelids, which can cause lash irritation, or the lids don’t close fully, which may require corrective surgery.
Breeds with loose facial skin (including Saint Bernards, Bloodhounds, Cocker Spaniels, Beagles, and some terriers) may have eyelids that roll outward or have “cherry eye,” which occurs when an eyelid gland falls out of position. Surgery may be needed for those conditions, although antibiotics and steroids are a common first treatment.
HOW TO GIVE A DOG EYE DROPS
If your dog’s eyes need more than a gentle wipe with saline or warm water, learn how to administer eye drops or ointments efficiently.
Clear debris from around the eyes and dry the area with a clean, soft cloth.
To apply eye drops, tilt the dog’s head back slightly. Rest a hand on your dog’s head to keep the applicator from accidentally hitting the dog’s eye, and squeeze drops into the upper part of the eye.
To apply ointment, rest your hand on the dog’s head, pull the dog’s lower eyelid down to create a pocket, then squeeze a ribbon of ointment inside the lower lid.
Your veterinarian can show you how to administer eye medication, as can online veterinary videos, and a friend or groomer may be able to help.
Follow instructions for frequency and quantity of applications.
To catch problems early, check your dog’s eyes every day so you’ll notice unusual symptoms when they’re easiest to treat. Keep the eye area as clean and dry as possible. If your dog’s symptoms are unusual, fail to improve, or get worse, call your veterinarian.
Tear-stain products
Grooming products that treat tear stains can be drops, powders, ointments, nutritional supplements, and even combs. A tear-stain comb (petpost.us) resembles a flea comb with narrower teeth that gently remove debris from fine hair near the eye.
Some tear-stain products contain eyebright, bilberry, dandelion, German chamomile, or other traditional herbal eye treatments.
Keeping hair around the eyes and nose as short as possible and keeping the face clean and dry are essential first steps. Contact lens solution can be used to clean around the eyes (not applied to the eyes) because its boric acid oxidizes the iron in porphyrins, lightening the color of tear stains.
Some probiotics are said to treat tear stains, though that use has not been proven. Still, experimenting with nutritional supplements and improving the quality of your dog’s diet may be helpful.
Search online for tear-stain grooming products, compare ingredients, study reviews, or check with your veterinarian or groomer to help find a treatment that will help your dog.
Dogs who are suffering from painful, chronic conditions (such as severe arthritis or bone cancer) despite already receiving other medications for pain, may finally find relief when amantadine is added to their palliative care regimen.
Amantadine is a medication that was initially used as an antiviral agent in humans, but it is gaining popularity for its contribution to chronic pain management in both human and veterinary medicine.
You may wonder why you haven’t heard of this medication before, but unless your dog has suffered from long-standing, severe pain, poorly managed by traditional pain relievers, there’s no reason you would have. Amantadine is generally reserved for these situations.
Amantadine is an N-Methyl-D-aspartate (NMDA) receptor antagonist. NMDA receptors are heavily involved with the transmission of pain impulses from nerve to nerve, especially in chronic pain situations. When a neurotransmitter attaches to NMDA receptors, pain perception is amplified. When the receptors are blocked by amantadine, the neurotransmitter cannot attach and pain perception is diminished. It’s as simple as that.
Amantadine is not useful for acute (sudden) severe pain, such as pain caused by a broken bone or post-operative pain, because the NMDA receptors are not a big player in these situations. Amantadine actually works best when pain is already present, which is why it is used most frequently in chronic pain situations when additional relief is needed.
Amantadine does not work well as a stand-alone pain reliever. A perfect candidate for amantadine might be a dog suffering from arthritis pain who is already being given a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID), gabapentin, joint supplements, and maybe even an opioid pain reliever but still needs more relief.
How to Use Amantadine for Dogs
Amantadine works best when dosed twice a day. It takes a couple of weeks to break the chronic pain cycle, so be sure to give it some time before deciding whether it’s helping or not.
Amantadine is excreted by the kidneys, so caution is recommended when given to dogs with kidney disease. Please note that “caution” doesn’t mean you can’t or shouldn’t use it. It just means you and your veterinarian need to be careful and monitor kidney function. Your veterinarian may prescribe a lower dose out of caution.
There are some important drug interactions to consider. Use of amantadine with antihistamines (such as Benadryl) can exacerbate the anticholinergic effects of both drugs, which include dry mouth (expressed with excessive thirst and excessive lip smacking), difficulty urinating, and rapid heart rate. The same goes for clomipramine (Clomicalm), an anti-anxiety medication.
The use of amantadine with tramadol, a common pain medication for dogs, may increase the risk of seizures. If your dog is already on tramadol, be sure to discuss this risk with your veterinarian before adding amantadine.
Amantadine is frequently used in pain management and palliative care protocols for osteosarcoma (bone cancer), an excruciatingly painful condition in dogs. It is not uncommon for these dogs to receive maximum doses of an NSAID, gabapentin or pregabalin, the powerful opioid oxycodone, and amantadine in an effort to maintain a good quality of life for as long as possible.
Amantadine Side Effects
Amantadine side effects, if they are going to happen, usually occur early on and typically resolve with time. Possible side effects of amantadine for dogs include agitation, restlessness, flatulence, and diarrhea.
Hopefully, as the benefits of amantadine become more widely known, we will see it prescribed more for other common, chronic, painful conditions, such as severe arthritis in aging dogs. Better pain management means happier, healthier, longer-lived dogs.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
