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Training Big Dogs – A Big Responsibility

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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giant dog breed
If you’re thinking of adding a giant dog breed to your family, do your research so that you adopt one whose personality and behavior is likely to be compatible with your family and lifestyle. There are no guarantees, but at least it gives you a jump start on success. © Maryna Zhukova | Dreamstime.com

Giant-breed dogs can be a hoot. It’s fun to see them in cars, looking for all the world like bears being taken for a drive. It’s lovely to witness a well-mannered Great Dane, St. Bernard, or Great Pyrenees walking nicely on a leash and greeting admiring passers-by in a calm, friendly fashion. But it needs to be said that sometimes, those really big dogs can pose some really big behavior challenges for their owners.

ISSUES OF SIZE WITH GIANT DOG BREEDS

Some of the problems they can present to their family members are simply related to their extraordinary size. If you’re seated at the dinner table and your Irish Wolfhound strolls by, his head may pass over your plate even if he’s not trying to counter surf. You could purchase an extra-tall dining room table with bar stools for chairs or consider other management solutions (baby gates, mat training, crates, tethers) just to keep the hound drool out of your dumplings. 

Sometimes a giant dog’s mere presence can trigger other dogs. Smaller dogs can be intimidated by the size and bulk of a 100- to 200-pound dog. Even if the big guy has no ill intent, fights can erupt as a result of a smaller dog’s stress. Imagine the logistics of breaking up a dog fight if one of the participants weighs 100-plus pounds!

While many of the big dogs (although not all) are truly gentle giants and get along well with other dogs, there doesn’t even need to be conflict for an injury to occur – a misstep of 200 pounds of dog onto an 8-pound Pomeranian (or a small child!) can cause significant bruising and/or broken bones. Caretakers of giant dogs must use common sense and management when selecting canine and human playmates for their oversized canine family members.

WITH GREAT SIZE COMES GREAT RESPONSIBILITY

Whether you already have one or are thinking of adopting, living with a dog who weighs as much as or more than you and towers over your head when standing on his hind legs, means that it’s incumbent on you to make sure the dog is super well-socialized and well-trained. 

The fact that these dogs have the potential to cause more harm than smaller dogs – whether by just pulling their owner off their feet or knocking someone over or through an act of actual aggression – means that their owners bear more responsibility to do everything in their power to help their dogs become safe members of their community.

 It’s important for all puppies to begin their training and socialization programs starting at the age of 8 weeks – but this is critical for the giant breeds. You really want them to learn polite leash walking and have a foundation of good manners before they are big and strong enough to overpower you (which may come as early as 6 or 7 months, depending on your size). They must be well socialized before they start lunging at visitors and other dogs and can drag you to the target of their playful, reactive, or aggressive behavior. 

Your first step? Get thee to a good force-free puppy kindergarten class while your pup is still small – starting at 8 weeks.

BIG DOG TRAINING BASICS

giant dog breed mastiff
Lots of dogs fail to receive proper socialization and training when they are young and get surrendered to shelters when their fearful, reactive, and/or outright aggressive behaviors become more than their owners can handle. And while it’s absolutely unfair to the dogs, it’s a grim fact that few shelters are willing to work to rehabilitate and adopt giant dogs who exhibit aggressive behavior; their liability is just too great. Keep this in mind and do everything you can to super-socialize and train your large dog.

The giant breeds learn exactly the same way other dogs do: Behaviors that are reinforced repeat and increase, and behaviors that don’t get reinforced will go away (extinguish). Remember that not all reinforcement comes from humans; inadvertent environmental reinforcement works quite well to encourage your dog to persist with unwanted behaviors. 

So, for example, if you left food on the counter and your giant dog helped himself to it, he was reinforced for the behavior of looking for and helping himself to food from the counter and will surely do it again. Hence the importance of assiduous management, especially for a dog who can casually snag a thawing turkey off the counter without lifting his paws off the floor!

Basic good manners are important for all dogs. There are some, however, that can be particularly useful for the oversized canine:

  • Polite leash walking. This is mandatory; you must be able to control your giant dog. The sooner you install good leash manners, the more he can accompany you places, engage in various activities, and enjoy a full and enriched life. If you cannot control him on leash, he’ll be left home a lot. If and when you do take him on outings, he’s likely to get himself (and you!) into trouble. (For training tips, see “Polite Leash Walking,” September 2021.) 
  • Appropriate greeting. Few people appreciate having a big dog barge into their face, covering them and their clothes with slimy spit. Friends will be happier about interacting with yours if he comes up to them and sits politely. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Greet Nicely,” September 2018.)
  • Mat training. A handy behavior for many dogs, mat training is an even more vitally important tool to manage your giant dog’s imposing presence. Family members and visitors can relax knowing that your dog will stay politely parked on his mat while you dine and socialize. (See “Mat Training Tips,” January 2020.)
  • Walk away. For this behavior, you teach your dog to do a 180-degree turn and move quickly in the other direction. This “emergency U-turn” behavior can help you and your dog avoid some serious scrapes. There may come a time in your dog’s life where he is so aroused that normal good manners fail. “Walk Away” can be the most useful cue in your repertoire to help your big guy move quickly and willingly away from potential trouble. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away,” September 2018.)

BIG DOG GROOMING ETIQUETTE

Last, but by no means least, your plus-size pal must be comfortable with necessary husbandry procedures: vet exams, nail trimming, grooming, etc. No animal care professional looks forward to the confrontation with their four-legged clients, and the bigger the dog, the harder – and more dangerous – it can be to work with an unwilling or uncooperative subject. 

Good puppy socialization classes include fun games to help your big-dog-to-be get comfortable with ear inspections, dental exams, paw handling, nail trimming, and all the other procedures and interactions that are an inevitable part of a dog’s life. A good veterinary-care provider will be on board with cooperative care procedures. And a good force-free professional can help you teach your dog invaluable consent husbandry procedures such as the Bucket Game. While you’re at it, don’t forget the muzzle training. (See “Cooperative Care: Giving Your Dog Choice and Control,” February 2021, and “Dog Muzzles Are Useful Tools When You Use Them Right,” February 2019.)

GO BIG!

The behavior and training challenges you face with your big dog are the same ones we see with smaller dogs. Due to their size, however, extra-big dogs can present these challenges in an extra-big way; hence the importance of teaching appropriate behaviors and addressing behavioral challenges as soon as possible. If you already have one of these plus-size dogs or you intend to adopt one in the future, plan to go big with your training, management, and behavior plans, too. 

How to Use a Dog Whistle for Training

By
Stephanie Colman
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how to use a dog whistle
The Acme 211.5 whistle is fixed-pitch and a favorite of many retriever trainers. You can hear sound clips of all Acme’s whistles at acmewhistles.ca and acmewhistles-usa.com.

Dog whistles have long been used for dog training. Working retrievers and herding dogs are often trained to respond to whistle cues because the sound of a whistle carries farther than the human voice and can be easier to hear in inclement weather – even the sound of a so-called “silent whistle.” How can that be?

The sound carries so far because the silent whistle, also known as a dog whistle or “Galton’s Whistle,” isn’t silent at all; it’s just that humans can’t hear it. Invented in 1876 by Sir Francis Galton as a tool to help test the upper limits of audible sound on humans, the dog whistle emits a sound measuring about 35,000 Hz, well beyond the average range of 20 to 20,000 Hz that is detectable by the human ear. 

Do dog whistles hurt dogs’ ears? For most dogs, a 35,000 Hz dog whistle will be perfectly audible; dogs can hear high-pitched sounds up to 65,000 Hz. Researchers suggest the ability to hear higher frequencies stems from the modern dog’s ancestors’ need to hear the high-pitched squeaks of their prey, including mice and other rodents. Plus, a dog’s ear has 18 muscles (compared to six in a human ear) and a longer ear canal, giving them the ability to tilt and twitch their way to fine-tuning the sounds that interest them. 

SELECTING A DOG WHISTLE

Keep in mind that, initially, the sound of any whistle is just noise. While the first few blasts may cause your dog to come to you, that’s just curiosity, not a magical magnetic pull. It’s up to you to make the sound meaningful to your dog.

The high-pitched sound of a dog whistle can be distressing to some dogs. Research suggests using a high-pitched whistle won’t hurt your dog – unless you blow it too close to her ear – but something can be distressing without causing physical pain. If your dog looks uncomfortable when you blow the whistle, try another one. Acme Whistles makes a wide variety of dog-training whistles.

Many “silent” dog whistles are adjustable, so be sure to read the instructions and adjust the whistle to the pitch that quickly orients your dog to you. You can also purchase a fixed-pitch whistle, such as the Acme 211.5 whistle commonly used by retriever trainers. Pay attention to your dog’s body language. You want to see eager curiosity, not concern. 

dog whistle for herding
A whistle can be a used for cuing wide-ranging off-leash exercises (such as directing the movements of a herding or hunting dog) or for re-training a verbal recall that’s been “poisoned” or otherwise lost its effectiveness. As with training any recall, start easy and work your way up to more challenging situations, being sure to thoroughly train in a fenced area or on a long line before testing it in an uncontrolled setting. © Holly Kuchera | Dreamstime.com

HOW TO USE A DOG WHISTLE TO TRAIN YOUR DOG

If your dog is comfortable with the whistle, decide what blast pattern you want to use as a cue for which behavior. For example, you may want your recall cue to be three short toots on the whistle. Give the new recall cue (three short toots), and, if your dog looks at and/or comes toward you, immediately mark the behavior with the click of a clicker or a verbal marker such as the word “Yes!” and give your dog a couple of high-value treats. 

If you give your new cue and your dog doesn’t immediately turn or come toward you, follow the new cue with your previous cue for the same behavior and reward him when he comes to you. (So, three toots, pause for a second or two, give your old cue, mark the behavior, and deliver treats.) Soon, your dog should realize that the three toots will be followed by his old recall cue and, in anticipation, he should begin turning and coming toward you as soon as he hears the new cue. At that point, you can stop using the old cue after the new one. 

Outside Dog Kennels

By
Stephanie Colman
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outside dog kennel
A dog’s proper place is inside a home with their families. But for short-term confinement, an outdoor kennel can provide a safe, secure, and relaxing place to enjoy fresh air and mild weather. Just make sure to set it up in an appropriate location, provide everything your dog needs to be comfortable, and take pains to ensure that your dog doesn’t start barking out of boredom or frustration in the kennel. If that happens, drastically cut back his kennel time and increase his enrichment in the pen. ©Whole Dog Journal

Maybe your home lacks a fenced-in yard. Or maybe it doesn’t, but you want to protect its lush landscaping. Or maybe your dog needs a quiet place to rest while you entertain al fresco. Or you need a safe spot for your dog while you run an errand and he’s not ready to be loose in the house – but you want him to have more space than contained in a crate.

When used responsibly, an outdoor dog kennel can be used similar to a crate – as a safe space for a dog to relax when you’re not able to appropriately supervise her. Modern outdoor dog kennels (also known as “outdoor dog runs”) come in a variety of customizable sizes, materials, and designs to complement any taste or need.

When might you use an outdoor dog kennel? There are several situations where a kennel can be beneficial:

  • To safely give dogs some outdoor time when a fenced yard is not available. (In this case, “safe” means your home is safe from any destructive canine activities and your dog is safe from any potential animal intruders.)
  • When you’re unable to directly supervise a dog in outdoor situations where lack of supervision might lead to unwanted outcomes (such as fence-fighting, digging up the landscaping, chasing the family cat, etc.). 
  • To contain escape-artist dogs left outside when you’re not home. To help teach dogs to not just calmly accept but also enjoy time away from their owners.

CHOOSING AN OUTSIDE DOG KENNEL

Pre-fabricated kennels come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and custom kennels, as the name suggests, can be designed to accommodate almost any needs or wants. Most are designed and sold in a modular form, with a minimum of panels that are clamped together to form a small-sized enclosure, with additional panels (sold separately) that can be added to make the enclosure larger.  

Because an outdoor kennel should only be used as temporary accommodation, it need not provide a vast abundance of space. Consider the size of the dog and the number of dogs to be contained within the outdoor dog kennel, and make sure the enclosure is large enough to allow space for relieving away from where your dog is likely to rest. 

Square enclosures measuring 10 feet by 10 feet work well for even large-breed dogs. If containing more than one medium- to large-breed dog, consider an enclosure that’s at least twice as long as it is wide. If your environment and budget can support a larger enclosure, that’s great. 

Carefully consider your dog’s temperament and athletic ability and make sure the panels are tall enough to prevent an escape. Or, better yet, look for an enclosure that can accommodate a top panel or cover, especially if you have one of those talented, determined climbers.

CREATING A SAFE AND COMFORTABLE KENNEL ENVIRONMENT

Consider these key points when installing an outdoor dog kennel:

  • Location, location, location. Choose an area of the yard free from distractions that might frustrate your dog. If your dog is prone to running along your shared fence line when neighbor dogs are present, avoid installing the dog kennel in that area. If watching the family enjoying the pool whips your dog into a frenzy, aim to locate the dog kennel out of view of the pool. Ideally, your dog will be relaxed – not just contained – when in the outdoor kennel.
  • Protection from elements. Avoid installing the outdoor dog kennel in areas where there is no shade, or where your dog would be exposed to a relentless wind. 
  • Install within reach of a water source. It’s important to keep your dog’s outdoor kennel clean, and you’ll want easy access to a hose. 

When it comes to designing your outdoor dog kennel flooring, there are several options to choose from:

  • Utilize the existing ground covering. The existing dirt or grass in your yard may be sufficient. However, if your dog is a digger – who may experiment with digging out of the enclosure – you’ll need to dig-proof the perimeter of the kennel. This can often be accomplished by lining the perimeter with cinderblocks or pavers, large rocks, or by attaching a strip of wire or plastic snow fencing to the bottom of the enclosure and burying the fencing underground. 
  • Decomposed granite or pea gravel. This is often recommended over gravel, stone, or sand as it’s softer on the pads and doesn’t hold as much heat in hot weather.
  • Concrete. Concrete is a fan favorite among kennel professionals for its ease of cleaning and sanitization. If installing a concrete slab, consider pouring the concrete on a slight slope to promote proper drainage.
  • Artificial turf. Many dog owners like artificial turf because, unlike living grass, it doesn’t die and become discolored from urine. However, in warm climates, unless it’s completely shaded, artificial turf can become hot to the touch, and it can require extra care to prevent and manage odors in areas of frequent elimination. 

ACCESSORIZE FOR MAXIMUM COMFORT

It’s important to outfit your outdoor dog kennel with the proper accessories to keep your dog safe and comfortable:

  • Access to plenty of fresh water. Always have plenty of water available. If your dog is likely to spill a bowl of water, consider hanging a large stainless steel water bucket. If a water spigot is accessible, consider installing a dog faucet device like the Lixit for easy access to constantly fresh water. (Note: Until you know your dog is proficient at using the Lixit, be sure to provide a secondary water source that’s more familiar – such as a large bowl or bucket.)
  • Elevated resting area. An elevated cot or padded platform helps keep your dog cool in warm weather by allowing air to circulate below him. It can also keep him clean and help prevent elbow callouses that sometimes form similar to pressure sores. Such sores are more common on larger and older dogs who spend more time lounging on hard surfaces such as tile floors or concrete spaces.
  • Appropriate shade and shelter. Use well-placed, breathable shade fabric to help keep the area cool and protect your dog from excessive exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Be sure to use breathable materials that allow sufficient airflow. Consider adding a doghouse as an even quieter spot to catch a nap or as protection from unexpected inclement weather.
  • Enrichment activities. Outfit your dog’s outdoor kennel with fun and interesting things to do. A child’s wading pool can be the source of cooling water fun or filled with sand to create a digging pit. If your dog likes to tug, a rope toy can be affixed to a post along the kennel frame. Make plenty of toys and raw, meaty bones or food-stuffed toys available to your dog. For a real challenge, hang a food-stuffed toy (such as a Kong or Toppl) from the top of the dog kennel and encourage your dog to work the puzzle as it dangles.

TEACH YOUR DOG TO ENJOY KENNEL TIME

Teaching your dog to accept and enjoy time in an outdoor dog kennel is similar to teaching your dog to enjoy time in a crate. (See “Crate Training to Keep Your Dog Content,” WDJ October 2021.) Feeding meals and/or giving him chews and treat-stuffed toys in the outdoor kennel can quickly establish a positive association with being in the outdoor run – especially if that’s the only place he receives those special treats. You can also accompany your dog inside the kennel for some fun play. Make initial training sessions short and fun.

Just as with crates, don’t use time in the kennel as a “time out” location or punishment. It’s important to preserve your dog’s positive association with short-term confinement. And most importantly, be sure not to overuse the outdoor kennel. Dogs are family, and they deserve to spend as much of their relatively short lives as possible in the company of their beloved humans. 

Starting Young: Resource Guarding in Puppies

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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resource guarding in dogs
Resource-guarding shouldn’t be a reason to think less of your puppy; it’s a completely natural canine behavior. However, it’s also a behavior that makes humans (and other dogs) uncomfortable – and it can pose a danger to others if the puppy is permitted to practice and be rewarded for it. Fortunately, this behavior can be both managed (to minimize your pup’s opportunity to rehearse it) and modified, so he learns more peaceful ways to get what he wants. © Betty4240 | Getty Images

It might come as a shock when your sweet fluff of a baby dog suddenly and fiercely stakes a claim to the treats that you’ve been tossing to your adult dogs. Your dogs have always shared quite nicely with each other, and until recently, the puppy has, too. So why is he suddenly resource-guarding from his dog friends? And what can you do about it?

First, don’t panic. Resource-guarding is a natural, normal canine behavior. Sometimes referred to as “possession aggression,” resource-guarding is when a dog sends body-language signals to another dog (or human) that he is not willing to share whatever valuable item (food, treats, toy) he possesses or desires possession of. 

Ideally, the guarding dog sends only low-level signals to his competitor, such as a hard stare, a freeze, hovering over the desired object, a growl, or a snarl. These appropriate, social-communication signals are intended to prevent conflict by deterring the competitor from approaching – and this often works! If, however, the target of this communication ignores the signals and continues to approach – or offers offensive social signals in return – the guarder may feel forced to escalate the intensity of his signals and may snap, lunge, or engage in actual aggressive contact (a fight).

Or, unfortunately, sometimes a guarder may launch at his perceived competitor without giving any warning, which deprives the “offending party” of the opportunity to move away. This can happen for several reasons:

  • The resource guarding dog has had prior conflicts that have increased his stress level about resources to a point where he doesn’t give warnings.
  • The resource guarding dog has been punished by his owner for giving aggressive-looking or -sounding warnings (which suppresses the behavior, but does nothing to change how covetous and stressed the guarder feels).
  • The guarding puppy or dog has never learned appropriate social skills for communicating at a lower intensity.

Resource Guarding in Dogs is Natural, But Not Desirable

Even very young puppies may exhibit resource guarding behavior, often as they compete for a spot at their mother’s milk bar – and it rarely escalates to serious aggression. In fact, they’re learning valuable social skills! As your pup matures, it’s natural for him to feel his way through new social situations, including laying claim to mutually desired resources. It may just take a few interactions for your pup to sort out his communications with your other canine family members over toys, chews, or treats on the floor.

But just because resource guarding in dogs is a natural behavior doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do something about it. Behaviors that are reinforced persist and increase. As with all undesirable behaviors, the sooner you address it, the easier it is to manage and modify. Every time your pup successfully guards, the behavior is reinforced by his success, which increases the likelihood that he will do it again, perhaps with increasing intensity.  

In the wild, resource-guarding is an important survival strategy. In your home, not so much. If you notice things settling down after a couple of minor resource-related interactions, it probably means your dogs have sorted things out. If the scuffles persist, you definitely need to intervene.

How to Manage Resource Guarding in Dogs

Every good behavior-modification program starts with management. Your management protocols will depend on when and how your pup manifests his guarding. 

Starting immediately, be extra observant of your puppy’s behavior, and make a list of those times you see him exhibiting even very mild tension in the presence of valuable resources. Then decide what you can do to manage those particular situations. 

Your management solution will depend – at least in part – on the severity of your dog’s guarding behavior, which can range from mild to serious. See the table on the next page, which shows how your management response would differ in five different situations, depending on whether your pup’s guarding behavior is mild, moderate, or serious.

How to Modify Resource-Guarding Behavior

As the intensity of your pup’s guarding behavior increases, so do your behavior-modification challenges. 

Mild guarding may resolve on its own as your puppy learns better social skills, especially if you take appropriate management measures to prevent escalation of tension during this learning time. You may also choose to utilize behavior-modification protocols, though these are more crucial when the intensity of the pup’s guarding increases. Moderate guarding can often be resolved with good management and the use of modification protocols. One highly useful tool is called “Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT),” wherein your puppy learns that relaxed body language makes the other dog move away (see sidebar for links to past WDJ articles about CAT). 

 Counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) exercises teach your pup that the proximity of another dog is not a threat to his resources, but rather makes more good stuff happen. 

Our past articles (listed in the sidebar) detail step-by-step instructions, but in short, you start with another dog at a distance that keeps your pup sub-threshold – where your pup is aware of but not tense about the other dog – and you feed your pup high-value treats. The goal is to change how he feels about the sight, and eventually, the proximity of another dog near him and whatever he’s guarding from negative to positive; ideally, he learns to see the advance of another dog as a predictor of good things.

Another option is simple habituation: Your pup simply gets used to the presence of another dog (at a sub-threshold distance, without you feeding him treats) and realizes that the other dog is not a threat to his resources. 

If you are familiar with these procedures and how to use them, you may be able to accomplish your modification goals without the assistance of a professional for a pup with moderate guarding behaviors. 

The same protocols can be used to modify serious guarding behavior, though it will likely take longer and require an even greater commitment to doing the work. I strongly suggest that you utilize the services of a qualified, experienced force-free professional if your pup is exhibiting serious guarding. Help from this sort of professional would also be recommended even for a pup whose guarding behavior is only at the “moderate” level if you are not already knowledgeable about and proficient at implementing these behavior-modification protocols.

Resource Guarding Behavior Modification is Not Just for Puppies

These management and behavior-modification recommendations are not restricted to just puppies. Adult dog-to-dog guarding can be even more serious and challenging to modify than guarding in puppies, especially since the adult guarder has had more time to practice and be reinforced for the behavior. 

Whether you’re dealing with puppy or adult dog-to-dog guarding, the more successfully you manage the guarder and his environment while working on modifying the behavior, the greater your likelihood of restoring harmony to your household. Get started today! 

Past WDJ Articles For More Information

ARTICLES ON CAT

A proven protocol for teaching dogs to relax in the presence of other dogs.

ARTICLES ON CC&D

Often, our articles about CC&D are about reducing a dog’s fear or anxiety; in this case, we are using CC&D to reduce his desire to guard valued space or possessions. 

MORE ABOUT RESOURCE-GUARDING

Training

Management strategies for five resource-guarding scenarios at three levels of intensity
Mild GuardingModerate GuardingSerious Guarding
What It Looks LikeYou see some tension in your puppy’s face and body, but it doesn’t escalate to anything serious. There are occasional hard warning stares and either slow body movement or brief freezes; all of these dissipate quickly as soon as the other dog looks away or moves away, and after the coveted item or opportunity is gone.There is a greater level of tension, including air-snaps and growls, body contact, perhaps some tooth contact but no broken skin. Some tension remains even when the other dog moves away.Guarding has escalated to outright aggression, including minor to significant injury to dogs as a result of altercations over resources. There may be ongoing tension between the dogs and the pup stemming from past trauma, even when resources aren’t present. If guarding aggression cannot be reliably predicted, apply a strict no-interaction management plan unless and until your modification program has been successfully implemented.
How to Manage MealtimesIf your pup is body-blocking at the food bowl, feed your dogs far enough apart that they aren’t in each other’s dining space. Prevent the other dogs from approaching the puppy while he is eating.If the puppy snaps and snarls at other dogs in proximity to his food bowl and shows tension even when your other dogs are at a distance, feed the dogs in separate rooms.If your pup has launched at other dogs in the distant presence of his food bowl, even when it is empty, feed dogs in separate rooms. Pick up food bowls and put them away when meals are done before allowing dogs to mingle.
How to Manage Treat-FeedingIf your pup stands over the mutually desired treats and gobbles them down while glaring menacingly at the other dog(s), hand-feed treats to your dogs one at a time rather than tossing them randomly on the floor, and/or toss treats individually to specific dogs, far enough apart that there’s no competition for them.If your pup gives the other dogs hard stares when treats are hand-fed and tries to claim all treats even when they are tossed in different direction, have your dogs wait a distance apart from each other; walk to them to hand feed treats individually. Use reinforcers other than treats – praise, scratching in a favorite location (under the chin, behind ears).If the puppy makes aggressive contact with other dogs when treats are fed in his presence, do not feed treats at all when other dogs are present. Use reinforcers other than treats (such as praise and petting). If use of alternative reinforcers still creates tension, avoid reinforcement when other dogs are nearby unless puppy is separated from others by a baby gate or exercise pen.
How to Manage Around ToysIf your pup stands over the toy with tense body language that de-escalates quickly when your other dogs move away, cheerfully invite the other dogs away when the puppy has a particularly desirable toy.If incidents of snapping and snarling have occasionally occurred in toy disputes, usually resolving quickly when the other dogs move away, identify the toys or types of toys most likely to cause conflict and remove those from the play box. Allow the pup to play with these most-desirable toys only when he is segregated from the other dogs. Alternatively, set up an exercise pen for the puppy to stay in when he’s playing with toys.If disputes over toys has resulted in injury to any of your dogs, you should make sure that no toys are available, ever, when your puppy is present in the company of other dogs.
How to Manage Around Valuable SpaceIf your puppy moves quickly to claim valuable space (blocking hallways, doorways, beds, or crates), ask him to wait at a safe distance while you invite the other dogs through tight quarters. Place beds where there is ample room for other dogs to pass by. Assign each dog his own bed and/or crate and prevent sharing.If your pup enforces his claim to valuable space with hard stares, growls, snaps, and/or snarls, put him behind a door or baby gate while the other dogs pass through tight quarters. Assign each dog his own bed and/or crate and prevent sharing. Put the puppy’s bed in an exercise pen to minimize other dogs’ access to it and give him protected access as desired.If your puppy claims valuable space (hallways, doorways, beds, crates) with willingness to aggress, resulting in physical contact and injury, put him behind a door or baby gate while the other dogs pass through tight quarters. Make sure his bed is not available in common areas.
How to Manage Proximity to HumansIf your pup body-blocks your other dogs to gain proximity to you, move to an open area where the dogs can approach and be near you on several sides, ideally giving everyone 360-degree access. Encourage the pup to stay on one side while allowing the others access from the other sides.If your puppy uses body blocking, snaps, and snarls to claim proximity to you, give him ample time and attention when other dogs are outside or shut in another room. Restrict his access to you when other dogs are present by using a tether or exercise pen.If your puppy has inflicted injury on other dogs who approach when he is near you, give him time and attention only when other dogs are outside or shut in another room. Restrict his access to you when other dogs are present using a tether or exercise pen.

Ode to a Senior Dog

By
Nancy Kerns
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67
senior dog lying down
He's nearing 15 years old, but his eyes are still clear and his nose nice and damp. ©Whole Dog Journal

Not one but two friends said goodbye to their beloved senior dogs in the past week. I read their tributes to their beautiful dogs and looked through all the photos of the good times they had together, and wiped copious tears away. These deaths make me hyperconscious of the limited time that I have left with my senior dog, Otto.

If he makes it to November, he’ll be 15 years old. His back legs are getting weaker, and though he can still jump into my car (it’s low, and he jumps onto the floor of the back seat, then climbs onto the seat), he sometimes catches a toe when he goes up the two stairs leading to our back deck and then two more that lead to the kitchen door and his back end collapses for a moment. I try not to fuss when I help him up; he always looks embarrassed when this happens.

He doesn’t trot much anymore; his gaits include a fairly gimpy walk and a sort of swinging lope that he uses as a replacement for his formerly jaunty trot – but he also still roars at the sight of any United States postal vehicles and races to and then down the fence line to chase said vehicles out of sight. He can’t resist! But he pays a price for this after the adrenaline wears off; he retires to his sandbox and naps deeply in the cool sand afterward.

He has always been good about being groomed, but he loves being brushed now – even with a Furminator, which I have to use to try to get rid of his still-shedding thick winter coat. But I have to be careful as I brush his sides and flanks, as he has countless egg-shaped lipomas of various sizes now. They don’t cause any pain, but it can’t be good to put any sort of pressure on them!

For almost a year now, he exhibits signs of dementia at night. He pants and paces and seems confused and anxious. A few months ago, at the suggestion of his team of vets, in addition to his arthritis med and gabapentin, we tried a prescription medicine for dementia. Within days, he had fountaining diarrhea, and we had to stop the dementia medicine. Following that, even though I bathed his nether end again and again, he started over-grooming the underside of his tail, where the liquid poop had gotten on it. He caused a nasty little lick granuloma, which required shaving the underside of his tail several times before it finally healed up, weeks later. I know it’s silly and not important, but it makes me so sad to see the skinny section of his now threadbare tail, which is usually a glorious flag, curving up and gently waving high in good spirits.

Until this past year, he’s always had nice breath and clean teeth. He was well past middle age when he needed his first dental, and he’s had several since then – but now, no vet wants to put him under anesthesia for a thorough dental, so his teeth are getting a little cruddy and his breath isn’t as fresh as it used to be. Fortunately, he’s good about tolerating brushing. We’re trying to hold the line!

dogs sitting for treats
Otto doesn’t bother with “sit for treats” anymore; he knows he gets them no matter what. ©Whole Dog Journal

He’s gotten ridiculous about food, hungrily and openly begging for whatever treats he thinks someone might give him, and lurking in the kitchen when we’re cooking. He no longer bothers to “sit” or “down” on cue, but stands, tail wagging and open-mouthed in anticipation when I’m giving cues to the other dogs. He knows he gets treats whenever the other dogs get treats, no “work” is required anymore.

But turn about is fair play; the other dogs have learned his medication schedule. Any time I get the can of wet food out of the refrigerator, they will jump up out of a deep sleep or game of tug to come and sit politely. They know that after I hide Otto’s meds in a “meatball” of pâté and he has taken the meatball from my hand, I will feed them a tiny bit of the tasty food as well.

I thank goodness that 7-month-old Boone doesn’t have high exercise needs. When Woody was his age, I used to have to take daily (sometimes twice daily) long, off-leash walks in our local wildlife area in order to keep him from jumping out of his skin. If we take Otto along, we can’t go very far before he’s tired – and I can’t bear his sad, uncomprehending stare if he doesn’t get to leave the house with me and the other dogs. I try to make it up to Boone with more play on the lawn and more hide-and-seek around the property. Happily, like many “youngest children,” he’s great about entertaining himself by chewing and tugging on our grandson’s swing (we have to make a new seat!) and playing tug all by himself with the leather leash we use to retrieve our grandson’s zip line (watch him do it here!).

It will be wonderful to get a good, full night’s sleep again someday, and to take long, guilt-free hikes with Woody and Boone – but I’m not in a rush. I keep trying to memorize the sweet hayfield aroma of Otto’s thick ruff and the feel of the one silky patch of hair he has on the very top of his head, right between his distinctive half-folded, tufted ears. Though my friends’ tributes to their beloved dogs make my heart hurt, I’m trying not to pre-grieve my vibrant, joyous, mischievous Otto of the past. I’m making every effort to just be here now with my beloved dog, one slightly stinky breath at a time.

Download The Full August 2022 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
-
5
  • Oh No!  Pup Won't Go?
  • Canine Probiotics
  • Outdoor Dog Kennels
  • The Eyes Have It
  • Be A Whistleblower
  • Resource-Guarding Pup?
  • Pet Sitter Checklist
  • Great Big Dogs
  • Amantadine For Pain
  • Help Your Dog Diet
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How Do You Keep Dogs Cool in the Summer?

By
Nancy Kerns
-
23
two dogs in water
The Oroville Afterbay is a 4,300-acre reservoir with 17 miles of shoreline – plenty of access in different areas for me and my dogs. The water here is shallower and warmer than in the river, and easy for both my swimming learner puppy (Boone) and my 14 3/4-year-old senior, Otto. © Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

It’s officially HOT in the northern Sacramento Valley where I live. These are more or less normal temperatures for July in this part of California; it’s even hotter another 60 miles or so farther north in Redding, a town that often makes the news for the day’s record high temperatures in July and August.

Up until just a day or two ago, my dogs have been pretty comfortable. The low 90s are not so bad. This tips over into not-very-fun territory at about 95 degrees. That’s when we head for the water.

Despite the drought, we are fortunate to live close to several bodies of water to cool off in. We don’t much go to Lake Oroville, though we live right below it (yes, close enough to have had to evacuate when “that dam thing” happened some years back). We tend to go to the river that fills the lake, but downstream of the dam, where the water is quite cold (coming, as it does, out of the bottom of the lake), or to the “Lake Oroville Afterbay,” a very large, shallow reservoir that warms a portion of that river water so that it can better be used for agriculture.

Thank goodness, all of my dogs love to swim, even Boone, the newest member of our pack. As I write this, we’ve had our hottest day of the summer – and we’ve made the five-mile trek (in my air-conditioned car) to the Afterbay twice today.

dog laying in sandbox to cool down
Every morning I shovel and rake the sand in Otto’s box so that it’s fluffy and level, and then wet it down thoroughly. I also adjust the angle of the sun umbrella to shade the box from the morning sun. The trees overhead keep it in deep shade throughout the middle of the day, and then I adjust the umbrella for the late afternoon sun. Otto heads out to the box after breakfast and digs his first damp hole of the day to snooze in. © Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

In this weather, I make sure all the water bowls in my house and office are full of fresh, cool water, and provide buckets, not bowls of water for the dogs to drink outdoors. (The water in even very large bowls gets too warm outdoors in heat like this, even in the shade.)

It’s cooler in the house and cooler yet in my office, but until the thermometer hits 95° F., my senior dog Otto prefers to snooze in his shaded and properly dampened sandbox. Every morning, I shovel and rake it smooth, fluffy, and level, then wet the sand thoroughly. Then Otto gets in and digs the first of his napping holes. As the sun changes its angle over the course of the day, he’ll change positions and dig another hole, and I’ll adjust the umbrella to keep the box in full shade. Today, we hit 95° by 1 pm, and he reluctantly joined me, Boone, and Woody in my office.

When I went into the house at about 2 pm to make myself an iced coffee, I saw our young chickens had taken over Otto’s damp sandbox. Well, that’s fair. They aren’t joining us in my office, I swear!

Though the young dogs will romp and play chase games at the lake or river, I discourage any exercise at home in this heat until the sun sets. Then I’ll throw fetch items and let Woody and Boone play keep-away on our front “lawn” (a pretty motley lawn, kept barely alive with water restrictions due to the drought) – and occasionally spray them with water from the hose. Why dogs who love to swim hate being hosed so much, I don’t know, but when they are wet, they play much more raucously and without getting overheated, so I tell them to tough it out (and give them treats for coming to me, even with the hose in my hand).

dogs on paddleboard
I took my grandson to the Afterbay to freshen up his paddleboarding skills while cooling the dogs down. We never went out farther than waist-deep water so we could also introduce Boone to balancing on the paddleboards. Woody loves paddleboarding, but you have to thoroughly beach your boards when you are taking a break, or he will jump on boards that are “parked” and accidentally go sailing off into the water.
© Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

All of these water-based solutions work so well for cooling here because it’s a DRY heat. I don’t know how you folks in humid parts of the country survive when it’s so hot.

How are you keeping cool?

Which Dogs Need Raincoats?

By
Stephanie Colman
-
0
A well-fitting dog raincoat does more than attract compliments on your dog’s fashion sense – even more than reduce wet-dog smell after a walk or romp in the rain. It keeps your dog warm in wet weather. ©AleksandarNakic/Getty Images

A dog raincoat keeps your dog warm in cold, wet weather. If your dog is one of a single-coated breeds (such as Boxers, Dalmatians, Whippets, and Maltese), she lacks the insulating undercoat that helps maintain a comfortable body temperature when it’s cold out, and would benefit from a raincoat. Dogs with double coats (such as Labrador and Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Siberian Huskies) have built-in under-layers to keep them warm, even when their outer coats are wet.

Breeds that might need a dog raincoat

It’s not just a dog’s natural coat that determines whether or not a dog raincoat might be necessary. It can be harder for toy breeds (such as Yorkshire Terriers and Chihuahuas) and short-coated breeds often known for being lean and/or muscular to generate enough heat to stay warm in cold or wet weather. Breeds such as the Whippets, Greyhounds, and the “bully” breeds (including American Pit Bull Terriers and American Staffordshire Terriers) can easily get chilled in damp weather, especially when not engaged in vigorous athletic activity.

Young puppies can also have a harder time staying warm in wet weather. Older dogs living with arthritic joints are more likely to be uncomfortable when cold, and any dog with a compromised immune system is more at risk of illness when exposed to prolonged wet weather.

Benefits of raincoats for short dogs

For short-legged breeds, well-designed dog raincoats offer another advantage: They help keep the undercarriage dry and clean! “Shorties” such as Dachshunds, Corgis, Bassett Hounds and French Bulldogs often have legs so short that their bellies easily come in contact with wet grass. Plus, since their legs don’t come with mud flaps, a brisk romp or walk in the rain can send mud and potentially contaminated runoff splashing up on their undersides. A raincoat that covers the chest and belly will help keep your short-legged friend clean and dry.

What to look for in a dog raincoat

When it comes to picking the right raincoat, one size definitely does not fit all. Here are some things to consider:

  • Do you need to keep your dog dry, or warm and dry? Dog raincoats are available with and without an insulating layer.
  • Water-resistant or water-repellent? Water-resistant fabrics can resist water to some degree, but not entirely. If worn in rain long enough, or in heavy rain, water will soak through. Water-repellant fabrics are typically treated with a coating designed to repel water, making them less penetrable by rain.
  • Does the raincoat perform as expected? We recommend carefully reading product reviews if not making a purchase based on first-hand knowledge or a trusted referral.
  • Look for a raincoat that comes in a wide range of sizes to help ensure a proper fit. A well-fitting raincoat should not restrict your dog’s movement or impede her vision. Hoods are generally more decorative than they are functional. Straps should be wide (so they’re less likely to move around) and not rest in your dog’s “armpits” where they’d be more likely to chafe – especially if water leaks in and the dog is damp.
  • “City dogs” on short potty walks have different needs than “country dogs,” who might be more likely to wear the raincoat while romping through wide-open spaces. For the latter, we recommend looking for a raincoat made from a durable material, such as rip-stop nylon.
  • Does the raincoat easily accommodate a leash or, if necessary, a harness, without compromising the coat’s ability to keep the dog dry?
  • How does the raincoat go on the dog? Some styles feature leg holes the dog steps into versus draping over the dog. Fearful dogs, or dogs unfamiliar with wearing clothes, may find it harder to cooperate with leg holes.
  • Dog raincoats secured by Velcro-type closures or quick-release buckles are easier to work with than zippers or snaps — especially on an excited dog waiting for a walk.
  • When asking your dog to wear anything other than their natural coat, a little training can help ensure a positive experience.

When rain is in the forecast, a raincoat can help keep your pup happy, healthy and ready for outdoor adventures— be it around the block, through the park, or on the trails!

How Well Can Dogs See in the Dark?

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
0
Dogs can see well in the dark as they see better than us in low light. However, use a flashlight at night because neither humans or dogs see well in complete darkness. ©K_Thalhofer/Getty Images

Cats are notorious for being able to see at night, but what about dogs? How well can dogs see in the dark? Is their night vision better than ours? The answer is yes, dogs can see much better at night than we can for several reasons.

One is the way their eyes glow in the dark when light shines on them. That shiny surface in their eyes is known as the tapetum lucidum: the reflective tissue beneath the retina that causes glowing eyes in pictures or at night. It acts as a mirror to reflect light onto the retina, enabling dogs to see with less light.

Dog’s eyes have many of the same features as ours: a cornea, iris, pupil and lens and retina. The cornea focuses and transmits light through the pupil (controlled by the colored iris) to the lens, which focuses the image further. The image is then sent onto the retina, converted into electrical signals and sent to the brain via the optic nerve.

What helps dogs have night vision?

In addition to the tapetum lucidum, our dog’s eyes have a couple of other things we don’t that help with night vision:

  • Pupil size: Dogs have much larger pupils than humans. The dilation and constriction of the pupil controls the amount of light entering the eye. The larger the pupil, the more light can enter the eye, the greater potential for vision, especially when light is limited.
  • Rods: Most domestic mammals, including dogs, have rod-dominated retinas, meaning their eyes are geared toward seeing at night (as opposed to cones, which help with daytime vision). We humans also have more rods than cones, but we don’t have nearly as many as dogs do, hence their ability to see better at night.

Do dogs have better night vision than humans?

While dogs can’t see in pitch-black darkness, they do see lots better than we can in low light. But when it’s very dark inside your house or outside (when there is no moonlight, streetlights, or light pollution from other urban lights), your dog will be nearly as blind as you are! It’s helpful to turn on a nightlight when indoors or use a flashlight when walking outdoors when it’s pitch-back, so your canine pal can see better — and do a better job of guiding you!

How to Teach a Dog to Speak

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
1
How to teach your dog to speak is a simple matter of teaching them to associate barking with a cue.
How do you teach your dog to bark or to speak on cue? You can do it in just six easy steps by marking the bark with a treat and teaching a verbal cue or hand signal. © gmnicholas/Getty Images

Want to teach your dog to talk? Teaching a dog to “Speak” is a simple trick, especially if your dog is already vocal. It can be helpful to have a dog who will bark on cue, whether as a party trick or to discourage someone’s unwanted approach.

Here’s how to teach a dog to speak:

  1. Trigger the bark. Start with something that already prompts your dog to bark. Ring the doorbell. Ask if she wants to go outside. Jump around and get excited.
  2. Mark the bark. When she barks in response to your trigger, mark with a clicker or verbal marker (such as the word, “Yes!”) immediately after the first woof (to avoid prolonged or frenzied barking), and then feed her a delicious treat. Repeat a half-dozen times (trigger a bark, mark, and reward).
  3. Add a cue. Use a verbal “Speak” cue or hand signal (such as pointing to your mouth, making a “quacking duck” gesture with your hand, or cupping your ear). Use the cue, then trigger the bark. When your dog barks, mark and reward with a tasty treat. Repeat this sequence (cue, trigger, bark, mark, reward) at least a dozen times.
  4. Fade the trigger. When your dog responds to the bark cue followed by the trigger, increase the time between giving the cue and triggering the bark; pause for about five to eight seconds. She should begin to bark after the cue and before you add the trigger. Yay! You’ve now taught your dog how to “speak” on cue!
  5. If, ultimately, you want to teach your dog both a verbal cue and a hand signal, teach one first. After you have successfully faded the trigger, teach the second cue. Give your new cue first (i.e., hand signal) followed by the old cue (verbal). After about a half-dozen repetitions, start adding the five- to eight-second pause, to see if she makes the mental connection between the two cues and starts responding to the new cue before you can use the old one.
  6. If your dog often makes a variety of vocalizations, you can create and associate a different cue to each of her vocabulary “words” using the same process as above.

Note: Be sure to mark and reward your dog for barking only when you’ve asked her to speak, to avoid reinforcing her for demand barking.

Use “talking” buttons to teach your dog to speak and communicate like “I want a treat” or “I want to go outside.” ©Melissa L Kauffman

How to teach a dog to speak with talking buttons

Wait; you wanted your dog to speak real words? Try talking buttons! While science has not confirmed that dogs know what they’re saying when they push buttons, you can have fun with them. You can put a button by the door that says, “Outside!” Press the button before you let your dog outside, and use shaping to show her how to press it herself. Be sure to let her outside each time she presses the button, so she understands that the sound of “Outside!” means you will let her out! Similarly, you can have one near your dog’s toy box that says, “Play!” – but if your dog is particularly food-driven, we’d probably recommend skipping ones that say, “Hungry!” or “Treat!” unless your dog really needs to gain weight!

How Much Playtime Does a Puppy Need?

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
0
Puppies need playtime in order to become well socialized.
How much playtime does a puppy need to be well socialized?

In addition to planning for and providing your new pup with all the training and management she needs to learn basic good manners and how to live in your home, responsible owners also engineer and oversee their puppy’s socialization — puppy playtime — in order to help her mature into a dog who is unafraid of and friendly with other dogs. Your dog needs as much puppy playtime as it takes to get her to be unafraid and friendly with people, other dogs and places.

The good news is that most pups come with some prior play experience – they’ve had littermates to play with for the first several weeks of their lives. Your baby dog may need to learn how to play with humans, but unless she was a singleton pup (an only child), she has probably already learned some good canine play skills. (See Sidebar: Teaching Your Play-Deprived Puppy How to Play.)

Play dates are a great idea – either in a well-run puppy kindergarten class or in arranged play dates with appropriate puppy pals. Opportunities for puppy playtime with other puppies will keep your pup’s play skills well-honed, and help her develop other important social skills as she matures.

Keep in mind that even at a very young age, dogs have different play styles and personalities. A robust, energetic, assertive pup will want to play with other resilient, active pups who appreciate her active play style. Conversely, if your puppy is more laid back or shy, she’ll need to play with lower-key pups who won’t overwhelm her. Even with more active youngsters, you might have a “rough-and-tumble” pup versus a “chase-me” pup, and again, these puppies do better when matched with a similar play personality. “Chase-me” pups do not like getting tackled and rolled!

A puppy’s critical socialization period runs from 8 weeks to about 14 weeks, so you don’t want to put off this vital piece of her development during this important time. Failure to socialize her well during this period can result in significant future behavioral challenges. While your veterinarian may caution you against letting your pup interact with other dogs until she’s fully vaccinated, we can find a middle ground; you let her have puppy playtime only with other pups (or friendly, playful adult dogs) that you know are healthy and current on their vaccination schedules.

Is puppy class healthy and safe for socializing puppies?

This is where the “well-run puppy class” comes into play. A good trainer of a puppy class requires proof of current vaccinations for any puppies that come to class and will disinfect thoroughly and regularly. While veterinarians are right to be concerned about potential health risks from inappropriate contact with other dogs, they are often unaware of the risk of behavioral illnesses that can result from lack of puppy socialization – and these are sometimes deadlier than exposure to germs. The health risk from a well-run puppy class is very low. In fact, your puppy is more likely to run into nasty dog germs at many vet hospitals than at a well-run puppy class!

On the other hand, do not take your puppy to dog parks or let her socialize with random canines you meet on the street, nor should she be allowed to investigate feces left by dogs in public places. The health risks are significantly higher in these public environments, and your vet is absolutely right to warn you about these.

How to introduce your puppy to other puppies

Carefully introduce your pup to her new playmates, and only one at a time. Let the two pups approach each other without the encumbrance of leashes, and watch their body language. If either seems reluctant to approach the other, stay close and provide support and protection for the shy pup. If the more confident pup responds appropriately to other’s signals, by backing off a little and keeping things slow and calm, let them proceed. If the cautious pup retreats or looks frightened or intimidated, or if the active pup forges ahead regardless of the shy pup’s signals, intervene and stop the interaction.

If, however, both pups seem perfectly happy to engage, let them go. After a short period of mutually agreeable puppy playtime, do a consent test: Move them six feet apart and then release them. If both romp happily forward and re-engage, you’re good to go; continue to supervise and intervene if at any point either playmate looks less than happy about the interactions. If one takes the re-set as an opportunity to look for something else to do, separate the pups and give the overwhelmed puppy a break.

If you have more puppies waiting to play, introduce each of the pups in pairs, and when they’ve all met each other, gradually increase the number in the playgroup.

If you have a puppy who is a bit of a bully, and if you have an appropriate older adult to act as a nanny dog, you can pair your puppy bully with the older dog, and let the nanny reprimand the puppy and teach him how to tone down his play. Big caveat here: Your older dog must not be overly aggressive with the pup, or you’ll create more problems than you solve. The nanny dog needs to be able briefly and appropriately tell the pup to back off with a mild snarl, and then immediately invite the puppy to play. The message? “We can play – just not like that!”

When you have located appropriate playmates, conducted proper introductions and made sure all are enjoying the interactions, it’s time to sit back and enjoy the puppy playtime festivities. After all, what’s more fun than watching puppies play?

Teaching a Play-Deprived Puppy How to Play

Some unfortunate pups are “singletons” – the only pup in the litter – or were taken away from their littermates very early, perhaps for health or developmental reasons. These pups have likely never learned how to play with other baby dogs. They are likely to be mildly to extremely fearful of their potential canine playmates. This calls for special introduction procedures.

Set up an exercise pen against a wall in a large room (so he can retreat to the back of the pen and the other pup(s) can’t circle around behind him), giving the fearful pup as much distance as possible from any other pups that might approach the pen. The room should be large enough that when he does come out of the pen he has room to move around – you don’t want him to feel cornered or trapped. Put your pup in the pen (stay in the pen with him) and have someone else release one other pup near the pen – ideally a low-key, easygoing playmate.

Watch your pup to see how he reacts to the presence of the other. You are looking for his curiosity to overcome his fear. When he begins to appear curious, let him approach and interact with the puppy through the wires of the pen. (Zoos call this “protected contact.”) After some time passes (this will vary with each pup) and you can see that he’d really like to play with his new friend, have someone restrain the other pup while you open the pen and let yours out. (You don’t want the other pup to come into the pen and trap him there; the pen is his safe space.) Then release the other one and see what happens. If they play, great! If yours is afraid but the other pup responds appropriately by backing off, and your puppy seems reassured by this, let the interaction continue. If the other puppy doesn’t back off, or even if she does and yours still seems very worried, separate them for another session in the pen. (You can also put the other pup in the pen and let yours explore the room.)

Repeat this process until your puppy is clearly comfortable with his playmate and engages happily in play. When this relationship is solid, repeat the process with a different puppy. When he has several playmates he’s quite comfortable with, try larger playgroups. Remember to take it slow. Your puppy will tell you when he’s having a good time, when he’s ready for more, and when he needs to slow down or take a break. Always listen to him.

What Can I Give My Dog for Diarrhea?

By
Will Hank
-
3
What should you feed a dog with diarrhea? First withhold food for 12 to 24 hours to let the digestive system reset and then try bland and fiber-rich foods like pureed pumpkin, white rice, boiled chicken or yogurt with probiotics. ©Melissa L Kauffman

Diarrhea may be a messy topic, but it’s an unfortunate part of life for humans and dogs alike. Thankfully there are some simple steps you can take at home to alleviate upset stomachs and get your dog’s digestive system back on track.

Common causes of canine diarrhea

Dogs develop diarrhea for any number of reasons. Often, it’s simply due to what veterinarians call “dietary indiscretion” (eating what dogs shouldn’t eat!). A change in diet can cause diarrhea and digestive issues in some dogs. Food allergies can also be a culprit.Diarrhea can also be a result of internal parasites (including worms as well as protozoal parasites such as giardia or coccidia), infection with a virus or a bacteria (such as Salmonella or Campylobacter), illness, and even poisoning. If you’ve ruled out food-related causes of your dog’s diarrhea, visit a veterinarian. A professional will be able to accurately diagnose the issue and prescribe proper treatment. (See “Dog Diarrhea Causes and Remedies“)

What to do if your dog has diarrhea

Many experts recommend witholding food from dogs who are experiencing diarrhea for 12 to 24 hours. A day-long fast often gives dogs’ digestive systems a chance to settle and reset. Fasting should only be attempted with healthy adult dogs, however, as it can be taxing on seniors, and cause low blood sugar in puppies. Small amounts of water should be given throughout the fast as diarrhea can cause dehydration.

What home remedy can I give my dog for diarrhea?

If fasting isn’t an option, there are several simple foods you can give your dog to help ease diarrhea symptoms. Bland and fiber-rich foods are especially effective at helping to ease digestive stress and firm up dogs’ stools. Some common at-home options include:

  • Pureed pumpkin or pumpkin powder
  • Plain white rice
  • Boiled chicken
  • Yogurt with probiotics
  • Potatoes, peeled, boiled, mashed, and cooled

When is dog diarrhea an emergency?

Many cases are mild and will subside with at-home treatment after a day or two. However, diarrhea can signal more serious underlying issues, and in these cases, you should visit your veterinarian as soon as possible. If your dog’s diarrhea isn’t improving with dietary changes, or if he’s showing other signs like lethargy, vomiting, fever, or weakness, and/or has no appetite, it’s likely something else is wrong. The sooner you see a vet, the likelier they’ll be to catch any potential problems which may be causing the diarrhea.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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