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What Colors Can Dogs See?

Blues and yellows are what colors dogs see best, so use this knowledge when asking your dog to choose between objects. ©Melissa L Kauffman

A dog’s eyesight is significantly different from ours, starting with the fact that they are red-green colorblind. What colors do dogs see best? While dogs can see the colors blue and yellow very well, reds and greens fade into yellows and browns. Dogs’ view of the world lacks much of the visual richness that ours has.

Additionally, dogs’ eyesight is also fuzzier; much of the detail we humans see is lost on our canine companions. While we humans strive for 20/20 vision, a dog’s eyes are more like 20/50 vision, which means dogs need to be approximately 20 feet away from something to see it as clearly as we humans see it at a distance of 50 feet.

What does this mean for our interactions with our dogs? It could help explain why their noses are so terrific: because their eyes aren’t! This is one reason why it’s important to let your dog explore the world with her nose sometimes, rather than constantly thwarting her attempts to sniff.

It’s also important if you’re doing any kind of training with dogs that involves asking them to make choices based on color. (See: “Are Canines Cognitive?“)

If you’re teaching color discrimination, you can ask your dog to choose between a blue ball or a yellow one, but don’t expect her to be able to distinguish red or green ones. This could be especially important for service dogs, who are often asked to perform object-selection tasks.

What do dogs see?

Want to be able to see how your dog sees the world? There’s a fun app for your phone called “Dog Vision”.

After you load it you just point your phone at something and it will show you how that thing, or that scene, looks to your dog. Give it a try… it’s a real eye opener!

Why Do Dogs Eat Grass (and Should They Stop?)

It’s common for a dog to eat grass for anything from stomach upset, to liking the taste to boredom. ©Samantha French/EyeEm/Getty Images

If you’ve noticed your dog eating grass, you might be relieved to hear that this is a common dog behavior, and, contrary to conventional wisdom, it is usually not because your dog has an upset stomach.

“But she throws up after she eats grass,” you say. “Doesn’t this mean her tummy is upset?”

Actually, no. Fewer than 25% of dogs who eat grass chuck it up afterward, and only about 10% of grass-eating dogs show signs of illness prior to grazing. So, rather than eating grass because they needed to throw up, most dogs who do throw up probably do it as an incidental after-effect.

So why do dogs eat grass?

Dogs have a natural carnivorous bias, meaning their teeth, digestive systems, and preferences lean toward eating meat. As historical scavengers, though, they also eat vegetable matter. The simplest explanation for grass-eating is that some dogs just like it. It tastes good and they like the sensation of grass in their mouths.

Dogs do need roughage in their diet, and grass can be a good source of fiber. A lack of roughage can be detrimental to your dog’s ability to digest food and eliminate normally, so eating grass may actually be beneficial to the canine digestive system.

Some dogs eat grass and then vomit because of digestive distress. Take your dog to the veterinarian if the distress continues to see if your dog has a medical condition such as gastric reflux, inflammatory bowel disease or pancreatitis. ©Nancy Kerns

Reasons and solutions for grass-eating: How to stop your dog from eating grass

That said, there are some medical explanations for the grass-grazing habits of some dogs. Frequent grass-eating dogs who show indications of digestive distress may have a medical problem such as gastric reflux, inflammatory bowel disease, or pancreatitis. If your dog shows signs of stomach discomfort a prompt visit to your veterinarian is called for to rule out or treat serious medical conditions.

There are also potential behavioral reasons for this behavior. A bored dog may graze on greens for lack of anything better to do. The solution? Increase exercise and provide enrichment alternatives to reduce her desire to mow your lawn. Food-dispensing toys, scent work, “sniff walks,” canine play dates, and cognition games are excellent enrichment activities.

Stress can also lead to grass-guzzling. Chewing is a great stress reliever, and from a dog’s perspective, grass is a chewable stress object, especially absent more appropriate chew options. The solution? Explore ways to reduce her stress and be sure to provide appropriate high-value chew objects. (Sturdy toys stuffed with food and frozen top our list.)

Attention-seeking is another explanation. Your canine pal may offer behaviors to get you to engage in activities with her. If grass-eating successfully prompts you to interact with her, you are reinforcing the behavior and increasing the likelihood she’ll do it more. The solution? Ignore her when she’s munching grass and pay attention to her when she’s engaged in activities you prefer.

When should I stop my dog from eating grass?

The biggest risk to your dog from grass-eating is ingesting lawn chemicals. If you treat your yard (or walk where grass is treated) then you must prevent her from munching on the greens. You could fence off part of your yard that you pave, gravel, or don’t treat so she can have a free-play area. Otherwise, walk her where it’s safe, and/or use treats or toys (play tug!) to reinforce her for keeping her head up when walking on grass.

What should you do when you see someone mistreating their dog?

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dog being dragged by leash
Is there a correct way to approach someone who is mistreating their dog in public?

My 10-year-old grandson is visiting from Boston and we went for a bike ride today at midday, to a local park. We were riding along a path and saw a woman walking ahead of us with a puppy on a leash and a young girl, maybe three or four years old. As we got closer, I could see that the woman was wearing a hands-free leash – one of those commercial products made for people who jog with their dogs, a waist belt with the leash attached to it. And as I got closer yet, I could see that she was essentially pulling the puppy behind her. The pup was on his feet, but was obviously hot and scared and was resisting at every step.

I took my phone off its handlebar mount and took this picture from a distance. I made an assumption – that this person was not going to be interested in dog-training advice or a stranger’s opinion about practically dragging what looked to be a 4-month-old puppy in the middle of a pretty warm day. And if I saw anything worse, I was going to call my friends at the city animal control department. After I took the picture, I called out in my best cheerful voice, “Hi, coming through on bikes!”

The woman immediately stepped to the side of the path and held her hand out to the little girl (presumably her daughter). She smiled as my grandson and I rode slowly by, and I smiled back and said, “What a cute puppy! But he doesn’t look very happy…”

Her smile disappeared immediately. “He’s getting leash trained,” she said firmly. And then added, “Don’t worry, I know what I’m doing.”

Ah, the dilemma of what to do about what we consider to be training that is, at a very minimum, certain to be ineffective and counterproductive – when we see it in public.

In this case, I didn’t stay to talk to the woman. Her response and demeanor were so determined – so not open to further discussion – that I kept pedaling slowly, before stopping 100 yards or so away to see what the woman did next. Just a minute later, she put the pup and little girl into a car and drove out of the park.

My grandson and I biked to a spot nearby, where we put the bikes down and took a quick dip in the river. As we biked home, we talked about the woman and her pup a bit more. I told my grandson, “It’s like seeing some parent do something pretty mean to their kid. You don’t want to say nothing, but you don’t want to make them even madder.”

I also assured him that if the puppy had actually been getting pulled off his feet, or if she had yanked on the leash or hit him, I would have taken some video and called animal control. “Some people just suck,” said my grandson and I agree! How could she not see that dragging the puppy along by force was not going to result in a dog who trusts or even wants to be with her and her daughter. How could that treatment possibly result in a dog who has good feelings about going on a walk with them?

Does anyone have the perfect thing to say to someone in this situation? Does anyone know a course of action that wouldn’t just make matters worse?

The Worst Sound a Dog Owner Can Hear

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close up of foxtails
In the spring, foxtails are soft and bushy. In the summer, they dry out and become sharp and dangerous to our dogs. ©Whole Dog Journal

This is the time of year that all dog owners who live in any of the western states, particularly in any part of California, will freeze in fear when they hear their dog sneeze. If the dog sneezes more than once in a row, they drop whatever they were doing and run to look at the dog. And if the dog sneezes violently again and again, most of us are reaching for their car keys and cell phone simultaneously, looking up the number of the emergency vet.

My California compadres know what I’m talking about: the dreaded foxtail in our dog’s nose.

Foxtail” is the common name for a few species of grass that have fox-tail-shaped reproductive structures. Hordeum murinum and Hordeum marinum (which appear across most of the western U.S.) cause the most harm to dogs (and other animals). In the spring, when grass is green in the west, the foxtail structures are soft and bushy; as spring turns to summer and the grass dries out, the foxtails also dry out and turn brown. And as summer progresses, the foxtails start to fall apart; those previously bushy structures separate into dozens of individual seeds, each topped with a hard, sharp, arrow-like tip and trailing several long, stiff awns. Each awn is covered with microscopic barbs that grow from the awn in a single direction, away from the seed tip. When these awns come into contact with anything, the barbs help propel the seed relentlessly forward.

These structures help the seeds literally bury themselves in the earth, reseeding the plants that will grow tall and grassy again the next spring. But they also bury themselves deep into any clothing, skin, or fur they come into contact with – and if you grasp one by the awn, to pull it out of your clothing, skin, or hair, the awns tend to break off. Even a tiny portion of an awn that’s connected to the seed tip will keep propelling the seed forward

If a dog, walking through the grass, gets one lodged between his toes, the seed will penetrate the skin and start to travel into the dog’s foot and even up into the leg. The discomfort makes most dogs start to lick the place where the seed broke the skin – which pushes the seed further and further into the dog’s flesh.

removing foxtail from dog ear
Veterinarian team removing foxtail from dog’s ear. ©Whole Dog Journal

Dogs also get foxtails in their eyes, where the seeds can burrow back into the eye socket; ears, where the seeds can penetrate the ear drum and even enter the brain; in their genitalia, where the seeds can cause excruciating pain. But most commonly of all, dogs can accidentally sniff foxtail seeds into their noses as they are smelling the ground. And the moment a light-weight, stiff, bristly, awn enters the dog’s nose, you know it, because almost every dog will immediately and violently SNEEZE, again and again. I just read a Facebook post of one of my dog-owning friends, whose dog sneezed so explosively, trying to dislodge a foxtail in her nose, that she broke one of her canine teeth on the floor, and had to be rushed to the vet for not only for removal of the foxtail in her nose, but also, surgical removal of the painfully broken tooth. 

So imagine my horror when, on deadline, sleep-deprived, and working around the clock, I heard my 6-month-old puppy Boone walk into the kitchen this morning, and SNEEZE, SNEEZE, SNEEZE! “Boone, noooooo!” I cried, as I immediately envisioned spending the next 10 hours at an emergency vet’s office (they are all seriously overburdened with patients and understaffed at the moment).

But the gods took pity on me and the best sort of foxtail miracle seemed to occur: It seems that the awn whisked right through Boone’s nose, into his throat, and down his esophagus – the best case scenario. After another minute or two of sneezing and rubbing his nose with his paws, Boone gagged, coughed, and swallowed, and that was that –no more sneezing or rubbing his nose (dogs seem to be able to digest any swallowed awns, thank goodness). Most of the time, foxtail awns that enter the nose end up lodging deep in the folding nasal passages, or stuck in some crevice in the back of the throat, where they can dig into the tissues and travel into the sinuses, the back of the eye, or even the brain. Ack!

Any dog can accidentally sniff a foxtail into his nose during any casual smelling of a field or weeds on the edge of a sidewalk; my son’s dog, a hound-mix named Cole, once inhaled a foxtail within a minute of arriving at my house after a three-hour drive; he started sneezing when I was still hugging my son “Hello”! My son had to put Cole back into his car immediately and head to a vet. An hour and $200 later, they were back, only a little worse for wear, with Cole needing a quiet room to sleep off the sedative he was given for the foxtail removal.

outfox field guard on dog
© Whole Dog Journal

But my point is, while any dog can sniff up a foxtail, some dogs seem more prone to it. Hounds, hunting dogs, and others who use their noses more than the average dog are most at risk, as are (it seems) young dogs, who are still in the habit of enthusiastically and excitedly investigating everything in their world by smelling. Which will explain why, if you happen to drop by my house this summer, you might see a young dog with a mesh bag over his head. No, Boone isn’t being punished, but I’m ordering an Outfox Field Guard for him today. It’s the only tool I am aware of that can keep a sniffy dog safe during foxtail “season.” My nerves just can’t take any more sneezing fits!

When do dogs stop growing?

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puppy with larger dog when do dogs stop growing
Most dogs stop growing between six and 18 months with small dogs finishing faster than large dogs. © Anita Kot/Getty Images

Most dogs stop growing between the ages of six and 18 months. Dog owners can use a puppy-weight calculator to predict a dog’s adult weight based on size and breed.

Two common concerns among new dog owners are how long puppies spend growing and how big they’ll end up. The simple answer is that puppy growth rate depends on dog breed and size. In general, most dogs stop growing between the ages of six and 18 months. Some extra large breeds, though, can continue to grow up to 24 months. Small dogs finish their growth periods earlier than larger dogs, though this largely depends on the breed. Gender matters, too, as male dogs usually outweigh females across all breeds.

Purebred dog breed owners can use a puppy-weight calculator based on breed standards to help predict progress. And nowadays, you can even find a mixed breed puppy weight calculator to provide the best guess based on your pet’s breed mixes, age, and current weight.

How big will my puppy get?

Dog breed standards help tell us how big purebred puppies will get. Sizes of dogs range widely from tiny Chihuahuas, averaging around 4 pounds, to 200-plus-pound Mastiffs. Naturally, pedigree plays a role as well, as many lines and litters of dogs are bred with size in mind. However, purebred dogs should still have a reasonable expectation to wind up within a certain weight window by adulthood.

When it comes to mixed breeds, things get more complicated. It helps to know the dog breeds and sizes of the dog’s parents, but this isn’t always possible. In these cases, best guesses are made based on calculations like size and suspected dog breed.

Are puppy weight calculators accurate?

There are several puppy weight calculators available online, but their accuracy is a subject of debate. Simply put, these tools, especially mixed breed puppy-weight calculators, use formulas based on inexact science. For instance, one formula recommends multiplying a puppy’s weight at 4 months old by two to estimate the predicted adult weight. The idea here is that dogs stop growing at an average of 8 months old. However, other factors also come into play, including gender and whether or not your dog has been spayed or neutered.

Most puppy-weight calculators are based on established studies and dog breed standards, so you can expect some measure of accuracy. However, don’t fret if the estimates end up off by a bit. Your pup may wind up larger than you’d planned, but if you’ve prepared properly, size shouldn’t matter all that much. What truly matters is providing your growing puppy with the best possible life so they’ll grow into a happy and healthy adult dog.

The following puppy growth chart is from the American Kennel Club and is an approximation. There’s no guarantee of how quickly (or slowly) your dog will grow.

Puppy Growth Chart For Predicting Dog Size
Small (0-20 lbs) Medium (21-50 lbs) Large (51-100 lbs) X-Large (100+ lbs)
6 months 75% fully grown 66% 60% 50%
9 months 90% 85% 75% 65%
12 months 100% 95% 85% 80%
15 months 100% 100% 95% 90%
18 months 100% 100% 100% 100%

Concerns about Seresto Collars, Continued

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tick chart
Source: cdc.gov/ticks/data-summary/index.html

On March 2, 2021, USA Today published an article about the Seresto collar, originally developed and brought to the market by Bayer Animal Health in 2012 (the product was purchased by Elanco Animal Health in 2020 and has been manufactured by Elanco since then). The article highlighted the fact that the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) had, at that time, received nearly 1,700 reports of animal deaths associated with use of the collar. Worried pet owners began flooding their veterinarians’ offices with calls about whether to remove their pets’ Seresto collars.

On June 15, 2022, the U.S. House of Representatives Committee on Oversight and Reform, Economic and Consumer Policy Subcommittee held a hearing about Seresto collars. Following publication of the USA Today report in 2021, the Subcommittee had been investigating reports of adverse effect incidents and pet deaths potentially related to the Seresto collar. Last week’s hearing, the Subcommittee described, “will examine the EPA’s failure to regulate the Seresto collar as well as Elanco’s refusal to take action to protect pets and their owners from the collar’s harm.” (A link to video of the 3 ½-hour hearing is available here.)

A number of witnesses testified in favor of demands that Elanco voluntarily recall the collar and the EPA cancel the product’s registration. These included owners of dogs who died after wearing the Seresto collar, the Environmental Health Science director of the Center for Biological Diversity (a nonprofit membership organization known for its work protecting endangered species through legal action), and a retired scientist/communications officer who previously worked for the EPA.

Defending Seresto’s efficacy and safety record to the Subcommittee was the President and CEO of Elanco. The company said the rate of complaints is a fraction of the overall sales – which have surpassed 34 million in the past decade – and that the rate has declined over the years. It also said that most incidents are classified as “minor” or “moderate” and that the pet did not suffer “any significant or permanent harm.” A link to Elanco’s complete statement is here.

No representative for the EPA appeared at the hearing, but the EPA submitted a statement (linked here), which explained that, following publication of the USA Today report in 2021, the EPA asked Elanco and Bayer, as the current and former registrants of the Seresto collar, to provide EPA with additional data on reported adverse effects of the collars. This information was received in May 2021, and is being analyzed by EPA, with additional help from the Food & Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (FDA/CVM). According to an excerpt from the EPA’s statement, “With the consultative assistance of FDA, EPA expects to finish its scientific review of incident data and other studies by fall 2022. Upon completing its analysis and assessment, EPA will determine whether these pet collar registrations can still be used safely according to the instructions on the label or if additional safety measures or cancellations are needed for these products.”

Benjamin Disraeli is often quoted, “There are three types of lies – lies, damn lies, and statistics.” Ideally, the adverse event reports for every pesticide and drug would be 100% available to the public to review. Without the ability for independent researchers to analyze these reports – as well as verify sales numbers for pesticide products – it’s hard to know how real the threat to any individual dog might be. We will be looking forward to seeing the EPA’s promised report this fall.

How to minimize your dog’s risk of adverse events

Dog owners need to be keenly aware that every effective pesticide will cause adverse effects in some animals; that’s the nature of products that are meant to kill parasites. There are health risks associated with every single pesticide on the market. Every time you apply a topical pesticide to your dog, or have him injected with a medication or feed him a medication that will kill fleas and ticks, you take the risk that your dog will have an adverse response to that pesticide or medication. We recommend that these pesticides and medications are reserved for use only on healthy dogs when specific need for their use arises and their potential benefits outweigh their potential risks. In our opinion, these should never be used without a pressing need.

What is a pressing need? Exposure to tick-infested environments or a flea infestation that persists beyond immediate and less-harmful removal tactics (such as bathing with a regular detergent [such as Dawn dish soap] and flea-combing). If you don’t walk your dog where there are ticks, and haven’t had any issue with fleas, there is no reason to start using a Seresto collar or administer any other flea- and tick-killing treatment to your dog!

Fleas and ticks also pose real and potentially life-threatening dangers to dogs, so if one or both of these parasites are an actual danger to your dog, you will have to decide whether your dog is healthy enough to risk potential side effects of a treatment. Fortunately, there are a number of things you can do to reduce the potential for harm to your dog from pesticides and flea/tick-killing medications:

  • Use an integrated pest management (IPM) plan to control persistent flea infestations, so you can use pesticides less frequently in the future. This link provides a good source of information on how to do that.
  • If the pets in your home repeatedly get infested with fleas, try to identify the source of reinfestations. Indoor/outdoor cats are often the culprits, as they may rest in places frequented by flea-infested mice, rats, squirrels, or chipmunks, picking up fleas there and inadvertently bringing them back home to reproduce.
  • If you have used a particular flea/tick-control product and your dog had an adverse reaction to that product, note the information in any place that will help remind you to avoid that product or its active ingredients in the future.
  • Take immediate action if you notice any sign of an adverse response to any flea/tick-killing pesticide or medication. If you applied a Seresto collar, remove it and give your a series of baths to help eliminate all of the pesticide that was not yet absorbed into his skin. Same goes if you applied a spot-on topical pesticide; give him a series of baths with a detergent such as Dawn dish soap.
  • If your dog has chronic health problems, such as cancer, seizures, thyroid problems, diabetes, liver or kidney disease, etc., we’d avoid using any topical or oral pesticides. We wouldn’t recommend giving dogs with cancer or those who suffer from seizures any pesticides whatsoever. Instead, we’d use whatever IPM tactics were at our disposal to control fleas if necessary, and would avoid tick habitats at all costs.
  • If you have used a particular pesticide product on your dog with great success (fleas disappeared, walks in areas known to be infested with ticks did not result in any or just a few tick-attachments) and without any adverse events, stick to that pesticide if you need one in the future. Don’t introduce an entirely new pesticide that may pose potential side effects for your dog without a solid reason to do so.
  • If your dog suffers any sort of health problem within a few days or weeks of administering a new pesticide or flea/tick-killing medication, REPORT IT. Use the information at this link: https://www.epa.gov/pesticide-incidents/report-pesticide-exposure-incidents-affecting-pets-or-domestic-animals

Fleas and ticks cause harm, too

It’s easy to forget what life was like before we had effective, relatively safe, long-lasting pesticides to kill fleas and ticks on our dogs. Many dogs suffered much more than their modern counterparts. Tick-borne diseases kill many dogs annually, and make many more suffer from chronic effects; without the measure of control offered by pesticides, these numbers would be much higher. Also, prior to the modern age of pesticides, it was very common to see dogs whose front teeth were worn to the gums from just chewing their own bodies in an effort to relieve the horrible itching caused by flea bites. While we would like people to use pesticides more sparingly and carefully, we wouldn’t like to go back to having none of these substances at our disposal.

tickborne disease chart
Source: cdc.gov/ticks/data-summary/index.html

In recent years, 20,000 to 30,000 confirmed cases of Lyme disease alone (in humans) per year have been reported to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, and that number is growing, as climate change is expanding the geographical range where ticks can survive. More than 50,000 cases of tick-borne diseases (including Lyme as well as anaplasmosis, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis, spotted fever, and tularemia) are reported in humans annually – but guess what? That’s a drop in the bucket compared to the number of cases of tick-borne diseases reported in dogs each year.

According to the Companion Animal Parasite Council, the number of canine Lyme disease cases increased from 245,971 in 2015 to 336,200 in 2019. Increases in the numbers of other tick-borne diseases were also reported, including canine anaplasmosis, up from 117,203 in 2015 to 207,825 in 2019, and canine ehrlichiosis, up from 107,985 in 2015 to 186,075 in 2019.

I’m not adding those statistics in order to promote pesticides – far from it. But as your dog’s owner and protector, you have to weigh the relative risks of the pests and the pesticides, and do whatever you can to protect your dogs from both.

How to Talk to Your Dog

how to talk to your dog
If you consistently use the same verbal phrases to explain or indicate to your dog what’s happening around you, he will begin to associate the words with those experiences, enabling him to predict what’s going to happen next and how (or whether) the experience will affect him. This knowledge will help ease any anxiety he may have about things or activities in his environment. For example, “Look, a neighbor!” might be used to signal that the approaching person is a a benign stranger that you won’t be greeting.

I’ve always talked to dogs – as I’m sure you do – engaging them with the usual cues, the names of favorite things and people, and a healthy dose of general chatter. But thanks to a week-long course in canine applied ethology taught by Kim Brophey, CDBC, CPDT-KA, of The Dog Door Behavior Center in Asheville, North Carolina, I’m now making a point to verbally name things in a way that gives the dogs I’m working with a clue about what’s next. The result? A notable decrease in anxiety, skittishness, and reactivity, plus an overall smoothing of household activity.

I know it sounds too simple, but I promise it’s a game-changer: Talk more to your dog! 

THE MR. ROGERS HACK FOR TALKING TO YOUR DOG

“Dogs have the receptive language ability of a toddler.” When I heard Brophey say this in her course, and then go into the science supporting the statement, a lightbulb went on for me. I taught preschool before I pivoted to dogs, and I can tell you that, while most toddlers can’t articulate their thoughts very well, they understand an astounding percentage of what people say to them. 

Note that we make an effort to tell toddlers what’s going on around them. That helps them gain confidence as they begin to see patterns in an otherwise confusing world. Think about the “Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood” show on PBS and that dear man’s predictably reassuring commentary on his actions (“I’m going to go over to the tank and feed the fish now.”).

Guess what? That purposeful narration works for dogs too, and Brophey calls it the “Mr. Rogers Hack.” She drives home the idea that so much of our human environment is utterly foreign to dogs, so they’re constantly having to work hard figuring out what the heck is going on. “Should I be worried? Should I be excited? Will I be interacting with that? Will it be loud? Can I eat it?” Cue the dog’s anxiety, skittishness, arousal, reactivity. 

We can lessen a dog’s load by explaining life as it unfolds, just as Mr. Rogers did.

HOW NARRATION WORKS

This does not mean that we should all begin prattering on to our dogs about, say, global politics. The key is that the oft-repeated words and phrases must be relevant for the dog. When focused on things the dog has feelings about – either negative or positive – the Mr. Rogers Hack gives the dog a clue about what’s coming next, helping him to prepare.

For example, the other day I was walking my three big dogs and we turned a corner to find a construction crew working on the street. There were a handful of men, wearing reflective gear and hard hats, holding big tools, next to a noisy truck. 

If I did nothing in that scenario I’d have a three-dog challenge on my hands: one barker, one slinker, and a highly suggestable 100-lb adolescent. Historically, my approach would have been to 1) switch direction or 2) use cues like “touch,” “look,” and “find it” to pull the dogs’ attention away from the crew and onto something familiar and reassuring as we pass by as quickly as we can. With three of them, though, that’s not always a graceful moment. 

So I used the Mr. Rogers Hack, as I’ve been doing for the past few months. I exclaimed in a cheery voice, “Oh great, they’re fixing it!” My dogs relaxed – no stream of cues or distraction necessary. They were able to casually watch as we loose-leashed our way past the equipment and workers. 

Why did this work? Because I have been consistently using that phrase – “Oh great, they’re fixing it!” – when there are unexpected humans working in unusual places doing strange loud things in weird clothing, and (here’s the key) none of that has affected them in any way.

“They’re fixing it!” allows my dogs’ brains to stop working so hard to figure out every single road/lawn/tree/paint/gutter/gardening/construction crew we come across. Those words help my dogs to categorize this experience because it’s part of a pattern they can recognize. They can now predict what’s next: We’ll continue our walk and that crew won’t impact us at all.

What is Applied Ethology?

Ethology  is simply the study of animal behavior; applied ethology focuses on the behavior of animals in the care of humans. Applied ethology allows a zookeeper to, say, find ways to help a captive cheetah stop pacing unhappily in his enclosure. (“What needs are unmet? How can we change the environment to fix that?”)

In her book, her courses, and her work at The Dog Door, Kim Brophey brings that applied ethology approach to our pet dogs, who are – even though we don’t like to think about it this way – in captivity. When it comes to undesired behavior – barking, digging, reactivity – dog trainers usually jump into changing that behavior. In contrast, Brophey’s model calls for slowing down that jump and instead spending time on “Why are they doing that behavior.” 

If it sounds like that would lead to frustrated dog owners waiting for a solution, think again. Brophey’s process often results in the owner gaining not only a new understanding of the dog’s behavior but also many deceptively simple “hacks” (like the Mr. Rogers one profiled here) that can have a profound impact on the dog/owner relationship. 

To learn more, check out “The Dog’s Truth,” Brophey’s engaging one-hour course on canine applied ethology; see the link on her website at familydogmediation.com.

SAMPLE VOCABULARY TO USE TO TALK TO YOUR DOG

It may be exhausting or arousing for a dog to have to evaluate every novel thing in our human environment and wonder how it might affect him. Using a word to indicate a category of things that will just pass on by is incredibly helpful, relaxing information for him. For example: 

“Plane” = Anything loud in the sky 

“Boat” = Anything floating in the water

“Bike” = A human moving fast on a bike, scooter, or skateboard

“Neighbor” = A random person we see out walking

“They’re playing” = Kids or teens racing around or being loud

“Runner” = Human moving fast on foot

“Doggy” = A dog we see but won’t greet up close

In contrast, here are words that can help a dog anticipate more interaction: 

“Buddy” = A dog we’ll get up close to, sniff, walk with, or play with

“Friend” = A human we’ll say hello to

“Guest” = People coming into the house (this will telegraph that people will come in, sit around and talk)

“Helper” = A plumber, electrician, painter, or anybody coming into the house to work (may telegraph that person will be hanging out for a while, perhaps unsupervised by family, using tools, making noise)

It can be helpful (and just plain fun) to teach your dog things that come up every day, like:

“TV time!” = Snuggle in because we’ll be here for a while

“See ya later” = Go ahead and nap because I’m leaving for a while

“I’ll be right back” = Don’t follow me upstairs because I’m coming immediately back down

“This way” = We’re going to change direction 

“First” and “Next” = For multiple-dog families training, putting harnesses on, getting in the car, being brushed, etc.

This deceptively simple shift in how we talk to our dogs is a great gift we can give them. Intentional, consistent, predictive narration creates calmer dogs – and thus, happier humans. 

Homemade Frozen Dog Treats

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popsicles for dogs
For “pupsicles,” use an edible “stick” such as a slice of carrot. The downside of frozen treats is that they melt, and melting treats can be messy. If you’re feeding indoors, try serving frozen dog treats on a towel, mat, or other surface that protects furniture and flooring.

Our dogs are just as fond of ice cream, popsicles, and other frozen treats as we are. But frozen treats, including those sold for pets, can be high in sugar, difficult to digest, expensive, or contain artificial flavors, colors, and even potentially dangerous ingredients. 

Fortunately, it’s easy to save money, add variety, improve the nutritional content of your dog’s treats, and help your hot dog cool down as temperatures climb with these homemade frozen dog treats.

How to Make The Best Frozen Dog Treats in Town

Ingredients: Avoid ingredients that are harmful to dogs, such as the sweetener xylitol, macadamia nuts, grapes, raisins, onions, and chocolate. Prevent unwanted weight gain by limiting fruits, fruit juices, and other sources of sugar, and feed all “extra” treats in moderation. 

Many dogs are lactose-intolerant, which can make regular ice cream and frozen milk products indigestible. Substituting fermented dairy products like yogurt or kefir, or using unsweetened coconut milk, which is lactose-free, helps dogs avoid digestive problems.

Equipment: Recommended equipment includes a sharp knife and cutting board, blender or food processor, and something to hold and shape treats during freezing, such as simple ice cube trays, sturdy rubber chew toys, popsicle molds, paper cups, silicone molds, wooden strips, and edible sticks.

Storage: Once treats are frozen, place them in air-tight freezer containers or zip-lock bags for freezer storage. This prevents sublimation, during which frozen foods dehydrate, and it prevents the transmission of odors to and from other foods. 

Frozen Dog Treat Disclaimer: If your dog loves to chew ice cubes, she’s not alone – but ice cubes are potentially hazardous. According to Tennessee pet dentist Barden Greenfield, DVM, “Dogs have a tendency to chew too hard and the force of breaking ice is substantial. This leads to a slab fracture (broken tooth) of the upper 4th premolar, which many times exposes the pulp, leading to tremendous oral pain and discomfort. Treatment options are root canal therapy or surgical removal.” 

The risk of breaking a tooth increases with the size of frozen cubes, so avoid this problem by freezing small cubes, offer shaved ice instead of cubes, or add ingredients that produce softer cubes, such as those described here. Small amounts of honey, which can have health benefits for dogs, help prevent a “too hard” freeze. 

Use whatever safe ingredients you have on hand, and experiment with quantities. There is no single “right” way to make a frozen treat that your dog will relish. An easy way to predict whether your dog will enjoy a frozen treat is to offer a taste (such as a teaspoon) before freezing. If your dog loves it, perfect. If not, add a more interesting bonus ingredient.

Simple Frozen Kong Ideas for Easy Frozen Dog Treats

Nothing could be easier than filling a sturdy dishwasher-safe, nontoxic, hollow, hard rubber toy such as a Classic Kong with any of the following ingredients before leaving it in the freezer. Block any extra holes to prevent leakage, leaving one large hole open for filling. Popular dog-safe ingredient options include:

  • Mashed ripe banana
  • Pureed soft fruit or vegetables (remove seeds or pits before blending)
  • Canned dog food
  • Nut butter (look for sugar-free peanut butter or other nut butters that do not contain xylitol)
  • Diced apple
  • Chopped or shredded carrots
  • Shredded unsweetened coconut
  • Plain unsweetened yogurt or kefir
  • Dog treats

Combine your dog’s favorite ingredients and fill the hollow toy. If desired, seal the top with a layer of peanut butter, squeeze cheese, or a dog treat paste such as Kong’s Stuffin’ Paste. Store the toy so its contents remain in place while freezing. For storage, keep frozen Kongs in a sealed freezer container or zip-lock bag. 

Another simple summer treat is a few chunks of frozen dog-safe fruits or vegetables delivered by hand or in a small bowl, such as banana, apple, peach, watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew melon, or green beans.

frozen dog treats made some ice trays and popsicles for dogs
Dogs love frozen treats. Make them more fun with fancy ice cube trays, or make nutrient-filled popsicles for dogs.

Ice Cube Treats for Dogs

Any liquid that your dog enjoys will work well as a simple frozen ice cube. Follow these instructions to make a frozen dog treat in an ice cube tray: 

  1. Choose any of your dog’s favorite dog safe ingredients like bananas, apples, watermelon, cantaloupe, pineapple, peaches, sugar-free (and xylitol-free) yogurt or kefir, coconut milk, cooked or baked sweet potato, cooked vegetables, peanut butter, and/or canned or cooked fish, meat, or poultry.
  2. Using a blender or food processor, combine the ingredients to create a puree, one that’s thin enough to pour.
  3. After freezing, remove the treats to zip-lock bags for freezer storage.

Adding a surprise to your frozen dog treats!

Adding a surprise in the middle turns ice into a fun game. Some of my dog’s favorite bases include:

  • Salt-free or low-salt bone broth
  • Water pureed with a small amount of cooked meat or fish
  • Broth or water mixed with unsweetened coconut milk

Fill your ice cube tray halfway and freeze. Then remove the tray from the freezer and add in the center of each cube a small treat such as:

  • Blueberries, cut strawberries, banana slices, or other cut fruit
  • A piece of cooked meat
  • A small training treat
  • A dollop of peanut butter

Fill the ice cube tray to the top with the same or a different base liquid and place it back in the freezer. After the cubes have frozen solid (usually within 4 hours), store them in zip-lock bags.

Make it fancy!

Silicone molds can turn any simple treat into something extra special. (Okay, the dogs won’t notice, but you and your human friends will be impressed!) Place your silicone molds on a cookie sheet and arrange enough freezer space to hold them flat during freezing. 

Homemade Ice Cream for Dogs

Soft Serve for Dogs

homemade ice cream for dogs ingredients
When making homemade ice cream for your dog, replace the typical dairy ingredients that make up our favorite ice creams with fermented dairy like yogurt or kefir.

Follow these instructions to create a soft, swirly frozen confection:

  1. Cut ripe fruit such as watermelon or other melon (remove seeds as you go) into chunks and freeze them for at least 4 hours.
  2. In a blender or food processor, combine 2 cups frozen fruit with 1/4 cup plain unsweetened yogurt, kefir, or coconut milk. Blend well to achieve a soft-serve consistency.
  3. Serve in an ice cream cone, paper cup, or small bowl, place some in a hollow toy, or add it on top of your dog’s dinner.

Pupsicles – Popsicles for Dogs

It’s fun to serve a frozen fruit smoothie or another frozen treat on a stick to your best friend, and there are dozens of do-it-yourself popsicle molds to choose from. Take a look online for inspiration. For convenience, paper cups work just as well. Here’s how to make popsicles for your dog: 

  1. In your blender or food processor, combine dog safe ingredients such as frozen banana pieces, unsweetened nut butter, unsweetened yogurt or kefir, bacon bits, coconut milk, and/or meat, fish, or poultry.
  2. Aim for the consistency of a thick milkshake.
  3. Fill the popsicle molds and add an edible “stick” such as a dog biscuit, green bean, slice of carrot or parsnip, bully stick, or sturdy chew toy like a nylon bone.
  4. To remove the pupsicles from their molds, leave them at room temperature for 2 to 3 minutes or run warm water over the outside of the mold. 

Dog Vomit – How to Identify It and What to Do When Your Dog Vomits

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nauseas dog signs
Most dogs will look uncomfortable immediately before and after vomiting. But if your dog vomits once and then bounces back to her normal, cheerful, active self, you probably don’t have to worry (though you should continue to observe her). In contrast, if your dog seems depressed, lethargic, weak, or in pain after vomiting, you need to get her to a veterinary hospital as soon as you can. © Cynoclub | Dreamstime.com © Yekatseryna Netuk | Dreamstime.com

Vomiting is one of the most common reasons that dogs are brought to the vet. That’s probably because there are hundreds of things that make dogs vomit. But that’s for your veterinarian to figure out; what you need to figure out is when your dog should see the vet and when you can try to handle your dog’s vomiting at home.

For purposes of this discussion, I’m talking about acute vomiting, meaning it started suddenly and is not usual for the patient. I’m not going to discuss chronic vomiting that’s been going on for awhile and is presumably already being addressed by some sort of treatment plan. 

I’m also not talking about regurgitation. This is a completely different problem, with its own list of differential diagnoses. Regurgitation is caused by esophageal problems and neuromuscular disease. In contrast, vomiting is caused by stomach and upper gastrointestinal (GI) issues, or nausea due to other diseases, toxins, or medications.

How do you tell the difference between vomiting and regurgitating? You can’t differentiate between them based only on found evidence; the expelled material can look similar for both. To know which is which, you have to witness the event: Vomiting is a more forceful ejection of stomach contents, usually involving retching and abdominal heaving. Vomiting is frequently preceded by signs of nausea, such as lip licking and drooling. 

In contrast, regurgitation is a passive, spontaneous event, during which the contents of the pharynx (back of the throat), esophagus, and stomach just roll out of the dog effortlessly and with no associated signs of nausea.  

The level of concern warranted by a single vomiting event in an otherwise healthy dog depends on a few things, including the dog’s age, overall attitude and demeanor, and whether there are additional symptoms.

Puppy Vomiting

It always warrants more concern when puppies vomit, as they can dehydrate quickly and suffer from low blood sugar events. 

The important questions to answer for vomiting puppies are:

  • Vaccination status – Current? Are they done with the puppy series or overdue for vaccines?
  • Has the puppy had adequate dewormings and a negative fecal?
  • Has the puppy had exposure to sick dogs?
  • Is there any possibility that the puppy ate something he shouldn’t have?
  • Is he acting happy and normal (beyond the vomiting)?

Any vomiting puppy who is acting depressed, lethargic, in pain, or weak should be seen by a veterinarian right away. Similarly, if there are other symptoms like trouble breathing or watery and/or bloody diarrhea you should get to the vet as soon as possible.

If your vomiting puppy is acting normal, is current on vaccinations, has been adequately dewormed, has been continuously supervised, and has had no exposure to sick dogs, you may be in a position to try the first-aid tips below. 

what does dog vomit mean

First Aid for Dog Vomiting

If your dog is bouncing around like usual, full of energy, and has no bowel issues associated with the vomiting, you are definitely in a position to try a little first aid and see if you can get away without a veterinary visit, should you so choose. (But what I just said about depressed, lethargic, or weak puppies goes for adults, too: If an adult dog is vomiting and lethargic, and has other symptoms as well, get to a vet!)

The first thing you do is pick up all the food and water. Nauseous dogs seem to think if they drink water it will settle their stomachs, but it doesn’t; it just makes them vomit all the more. Regardless of what has caused the digestive upset, the stomach needs some time to settle and the nausea needs time to pass. 

I recommend nothing by mouth – no food or water – for 4 to 6 hours. If there has been no vomiting during that time, you can start offering a small amount of water (small dog:  1 tablespoon; medium dog: ¼ cup; large dog: ½ cup). If they drink it, wait 30 minutes to make sure it’s not coming back up.  (Toy-breed puppies and pups less than 6 weeks should not be fasted; for larger pups from 6 weeks to 12 weeks old, reduce the fasting times given here by half.)

If they keep that down, you can offer this small amount of water every 30 minutes, and gradually increase the amount offered each time until eventually you can leave a bowl down without risk of them trying to guzzle it. If your dog cannot hold water down during this process, it’s time to see the vet.

If your dog holds the water down, wait at least 4 to 6 more hours before offering food. Bland, easily digestible food may help. A home-cooked recipe is boiled chicken or boiled hamburger (pour all the fat off), mixed with plain white rice, 4 parts rice to 1 part meat. As with the water, offer only small amounts about 3 to 4 hours apart (small dog:  1 tablespoon; medium dog: ¼ cup; large dog: ½ cup). 

If the first couple of meals stay down, you can increase the meal size and decrease the frequency as you go along. If your dog cannot hold food down during this process, it’s time to see the vet. If all goes well, make a gradual transition to his regular diet over 2 to 3 days.

Now you’re probably wondering, but what if something bad is going on and I wait too long? If you follow these first-aid tips, you won’t wait too long. If something bad is going on, your dog will either start showing more signs of malaise, and/or continue vomiting, and off to the vet you go.

Common Causes of Vomiting

Here are some examples of possibly not-so-bad things that might cause simple dog vomiting:

  • Got into the cat’s food
  • Ate part of a dead bunny
  • Consumed too much grass
  • Spent the weekend with your in-laws eating god knows what 
  • Took off during your daily hike and came back smelling like something awful, some of which he probably ate 
  • Overindulged in deer-poop snacks

Here are some examples of bad things that might cause dog vomiting:

  • Chewed up a bottle of ibuprofen 
  • Was chewing on a tennis ball and now you can only find a small piece of it
  • Got into the garbage with food and bones in it
  • Chewed up a bag of raisins
  • You can’t find the bag of grapes you left on the counter – and you live alone
  • You can’t find your favorite socks or underwear
  • You saw him swallow your favorite socks or underwear
  • You left him unsupervised with a rope toy and now it’s a pile of yarn
  • He ate the pound of butter he found in the grocery bag you left on the floor
  • Medical issues: pancreatitis, kidney disease, liver disease, Addison’s disease, severe allergic reactions, bowel blockages, cancer, etc.

When To Take Your Dog to the Vet for Vomiting

When you’ve gone through the first aid steps and your dog isn’t showing signs of improvement, the vet is the next step. What is your veterinarian going to do when you show up with your vomiting dog? A physical exam, for sure. From there, it depends on your dog’s history, signalment, and physical exam findings.  

Young dogs are notorious for eating what I like to call “dumb stuff,” so your vet may want to do an x-ray to make sure there aren’t rocks, batteries, coins, baby binkies, or a golf ball in there. Socks and underwear are trickier to see on an x-ray, but sometimes obvious enough. X-rays are also indicated for any vomiting dog with a painful abdomen, as there may be an intestinal obstruction.

Older dogs, while less likely to eat “dumb stuff,” have a higher likelihood of systemic disease, so your veterinarian may want to do diagnostics like bloodwork and urinalysis.

If everything checks out okay, and all the bad stuff is ruled out, your veterinarian can administer an extra level of first-aid in the form of anti-nausea and/or anti-vomiting medications. Maropitant (Cerenia, made by Zoetis) is an effective anti-vomiting medication that can be given by injection and lasts for 24 hours. Ondansetron (Zofran, made by Novartis) works well for nausea and can also be given by injection at the veterinary clinic. If your dog shows any signs of dehydration, fluid and electrolyte support can be administered subcutaneously (under the skin) on an outpatient basis.

Better Safe Than Sorry

As previously stated, there may be occasions where you can safely help your dog through a simple digestive upset. If, however, there is any doubt, uncertainty, or question, it’s always best to see your veterinarian. The goal is always to get your canine companion feeling better as quickly as possible. 

Will the Rattlesnake Vaccine Protect My Dog?

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rattlesnake vaccine for dogs
Most dogs who are bitten by rattlesnakes survive with treatment, whether or not they’ve been vaccinated with the Crotalus Atrox Toxoid (rattlesnake) vaccine. But when a vaccinated dog survives a rattlesnake bite, at least some credit generally is given to the vaccine, furthering the anecdotal evidence that the vaccine works. However, studies have not shown decreased morbidity (illness)or mortality in vaccinated vs. unvaccinated dogs following a rattlesnake bite. Photo Credits: Isselee / Dreamstime.com

Every year rattlesnakes bite more than 100,000 dogs in the United States, with an estimated 40% of bites resulting in severe reactions and fatal reactions in about 5% of bites. So why wouldn’t every owner in areas where rattlesnakes are common vaccinate their dogs against rattlesnake venom? In brief, because there isn’t any solid proof that the rattlesnake vaccine for dogs works as intended. There are no studies that demonstrate an increased survival rate or a reduced rate of severe reactions among vaccinated dogs. 

RATTLESNAKE BITE DANGERS FOR DOGS

Rattlesnake venom causes severe swelling at the bite location (often on the face or paws), bleeding, a dangerous drop in blood pressure, shock, and eventual breathing paralysis. In addition, the venom contains components that can break down proteins, cell membranes, intercellular matrix and/or connective tissue, resulting in painful tissue damage at the site of the bite. 

Veterinary clinics in high-risk areas carry antivenin (also known as antivenom), which helps neutralize the venom. 

To make rattlesnake antivenin, either sheep or horses (depending on the manufacturer) are injected with small amounts of venom from a number of rattlesnake species. The immune systems of the sheep or horses respond by producing protective immunoglobulins that neutralize the specific toxic antigens in the snakes’ venom. Blood is collected from the animals and the hemoglobin is separated from the plasma; the plasma fraction containing the protective immunoglobulin is used to make the antivenin.

Antivenin is expensive – it costs $450 or more per vial – and sometimes, several vials are needed to counteract the bite’s venom. Dogs who are bitten by rattlesnakes are most likely to survive if they receive prompt treatment, which may include antivenin, fluids, antibiotics, anti-inflammatories, antihistamines, hospitalization, and/or surgery.  

RATTLESNAKE VACCINE FOR DOGS

Twenty years ago, Red Rock Biologics developed Crotalus Atrox Toxoid (CAT), a rattlesnake bite vaccine for dogs and horses. The inactivated venom used in its production came from western diamondback rattlesnakes; vaccination with CAT elicits production of immunoglobulins capable of binding to and neutralizing the major protein fractions of Crotalus atrox (western diamondback) venom. 

The vaccine is labeled only “for protection against the venom of the western diamondback rattlesnake.” However, according to Red Rock Biologics, canine antibodies that develop in response to this vaccine may also recognize and bind proteins in other North American rattlesnake venoms. 

The CAT vaccine is given in two doses, administered four weeks apart. It’s recommended to give an additional booster four weeks after the second vaccination for dogs who weigh more than 100 lbs. The vaccine can be given as early as 16 weeks of age, needs to be repeated annually, and should be given a month before snake season begins, as it takes the dog’s body about four weeks to produce peak levels of the antibodies needed for protection.

The vaccine does not offer immunity from the effects of a snake bite. Instead, says the manufacturer, because the dog’s antibodies have been available to neutralize venom components from shortly after the bite, far less tissue destruction should occur than in an unvaccinated animal, and better outcomes are expected.

How effective is the rattlesnake vaccine? That’s the key question. No clinical trials have proved that this vaccine actually works, and a peer-reviewed study published in 2014 found that it did not protect dogs requiring treatment with antivenin (“Effects of the canine rattlesnake vaccine in moderate to severe cases of canine crotalid envenomation,” Veterinary Medicine, October 2014). That study, which examined records of 82 Southern California dogs treated for naturally occurring rattlesnake bites, concluded, “No statistically significant difference in morbidity or mortality between vaccinated and unvaccinated dogs was found. The findings of this study did not identify a significantly protective effect of previous vaccination in the cases of moderate to severe rattlesnake envenomation that require treatment with antivenin.”

Snake Avoidance Training

To protect their dogs, some owners turn to rattlesnake avoidance training. Most avoidance training methods are made available to dog owners through an appointment with someone who is equipped with live rattlesnakes. The repeated presentation of a snake is paired with shocks from a shock collar, to teach the dog to be wary of and avoid snakes. Critics of this method point out that some dogs leave the workshops with newly established and crippling fear of not just snakes, but people who look like or wear the same cologne or hat as the person who was presenting the snake, or sprinklers that make tick-tick-tick sounds similar to rattlesnakes (to hear a recording of a rattlesnake’s rattling, go to californiaherps.com/sounds/rattles.mp3).

In contrast, force-free rattlesnake avoidance training uses relationship-building games, tricks, and rewards to strengthen the dog’s response to recall and “leave it” cues. We strongly recommend this type of training over the type that relies on negative reinforcement, which can have unexpected and problematic behavioral fallout. For more information about force-free snake avoidance training, see see “Snake Aversion without Shock,”  WDJ May 2015.

You can make your yard less attractive to snakes by clearing debris and clutter, removing snake-friendly hiding places such as piles of leaves or wood, installing snake-proof fencing, and eliminating mice or other small animals that attract snakes. When walking where rattlesnakes are known to be, keep dogs on short leashes, avoid tall grass, pay attention to the trail, and be ready to walk your dogs away from rattlesnakes.

OPINIONS ON THE RATTLESNAKE VACCINE VARY, EVEN AMONG VETERINARIANS

Because of the vaccine’s questionable efficacy, and the fact that vaccinated and unvaccinated dogs must receive the same medical care when bitten by a snake, many veterinary hospitals, such as the University of California Davis Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital, do not recommend it for their canine patients. 

Some veterinarians, however, believe that the vaccine might delay the venom’s effect so that the owner can reach a veterinarian in time to save the dog’s life or decrease the venom’s effects. For this reason, they recommend the vaccine for dogs at high risk in areas where immediate treatment is impossible.

“I’m a big believer in the rattlesnake bite vaccine,” says Lorrie Boldrick, DVM, in Orange, California (barefootveterinarian.com). “Any rattlesnake bite is a medical emergency, but the description that stays with me is that the whole point of the vaccine is to give you extra time, to make it more likely that you’ll be able to get to a veterinarian with a live dog.”

Dr. Boldrick explains that it’s impossible to know how severe a bite is when it happens, because a rattlesnake may release no venom at all when it bites (this is called a dry bite), a moderate, or a maximum amount. Rattlesnakes are able to control the release of venom; they use as much as they need to kill their prey. The amount they use when they bite a dog is highly variable. Because of this, every bite needs to be treated as promptly as possible.

At least six of Dr. Boldrick’s vaccinated patients have been bitten by rattlesnakes and all of them survived. “I believe that each of them received at least some venom,” she says, “and two of them got a lot, and they did fine. I know of so many vaccinated dogs who recovered with minimal care that I’m convinced the vaccine helped by reducing the venom’s effect and providing extra time to seek treatment.”

The vaccination is not expensive – about $30 to $40 for each vaccination at most veterinary clinics – but it’s not entirely benign, either. An estimated 5% of vaccinated dogs develop a reaction at the injection site, ranging from sensitivity to an abscess that requires veterinary treatment.

Should You Carry Benadryl On The Trail?

Benadryl is widely touted as an effective treatment for rattlesnake bites, but according to emergency physician and medical toxicologist Nick Brandehoff, M.D. (snakebitefoundation.org), Benadryl does nothing to prevent the swelling, redness, pain, and cell death caused by snake venom. “Benadryl,” he writes, “is ineffective for treating a venomous snakebite, even as a temporizing measure in the back country.”

TO VAX OR NOT TO VAX?

We recommend making an appointment with your veterinarian to discuss the CAT vaccine and your dog’s relative risk from the bite of a venomous snake. It’s not proven whether this vaccination can stimulate antibodies quickly enough to protect your dog from the venom in a snakebite, or whether the vaccination would offer protection from whatever species of rattlesnake your dog encountered. Keep in mind that your vet may have a bias for or against the vaccine, based on her experience in your area.

And, vaccine aside, consider that there are proven benefits to strengthening your dog’s response to your recall and “leave it” or “walk away” cues. If these behaviors are not reliable, keep your dog on a short leash, and keep your eyes wide open when you are walking with your dog in rattlesnake habitats. 

Safe Stick Toys for Dogs

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safe stick toys
We tested these five artificial stick toys for more than a month. We threw and the dogs fetched, chewed, and played tug-of-war with them. They also got left outside in the sun a lot. After a month of this activity, both we and our dogs developed some favorites. From left to right, first to worst: 1. West Paw Zwig 2. RuffDawg Stick 3. Kong Safestix 4. Chuckit! Air Fetch Stick 5. Spunky Pup Fetch & Glow Stick

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Once upon a time, I owned a fetching fool of a Border Collie named Rupert. This dog lived for fetch, and he’d fetch anything; he wasn’t a flying disc specialist or a discriminating snob for a certain type of ball, like my current fetcher (Woody). There didn’t even have to be a toy! If no ball or Frisbee was at hand and someone seemed like a throwing candidate, Rupe would go looking for a stick. He’d grab any twig or branch he could find, drop it at the potential thrower’s feet, and do a little dance-step backward, staring at the stick, mouth open in anticipation. “Throw it! Throw it!” he’d be saying with every molecule in his body. 

Again, this was well before WDJ, and I was young, dumb, and broke. I didn’t buy special toys for my fetch-obsessed, athletic dog in our first few years together; often I just threw the sticks that he found and brought to me. That is, until the accident happened. 

My then-boyfriend and I had taken Rupie to the beach, and we were all having a blast. Rupert was deliriously happy with the quantity and variety of driftwood on the beach. He brought stick after stick to us to throw for him – until one stick hit the sand like an arrow might fall from the sky, lodging in the sand just a millisecond before a racing Rupert grabbed at it. He was going so fast, and the stick stopped so suddenly, that his teeth failed to close on the stick before the other end stabbed him in the back of the throat. He fell backward, gagging in pain, as blood dripped from his mouth. 

Thank goodness, he survived. We rushed him to an emergency veterinary clinic, where they sedated him and examined his throat with an endoscope. His trachea was severely scraped, but not punctured. As you can imagine, that was the last time I ever threw a wooden stick for my dog.

SAFETY FIRST WHEN PICKING A STICK TOY

dogs playing tug of war with stick toy
My “test dogs” enjoyed playing tug with and mutually chewing on the Kong Safestix.

Throat-piercing isn’t the only potential hazard of playing with natural sticks. Dogs have been known to consume enough chewed-up wood and splinters to require emergency surgery; wood splinters can also get lodged between dogs’ teeth or in gums, starting painful dental conditions. Dogs who are playing tug-of-war with another dog using a branch can spin around and put out another dog’s eye. 

Given my past experience with Rupert, more knowledge about the dangers of sticks – and enough income to afford to buy toys for my dogs now – today, I throw only rubbery, commercially manufactured sticks for my dogs. None of these products could possibly puncture a dog’s throat – or, for that matter, put out a dog’s eye or break a dog’s tooth. 

dogs chewing on ruffdawg stick
My dogs seemed to particularly enjoy the mouth-feel of the Ruffdawg Stick.

These toy “sticks” are not only fun for throwing and fetching on land or in water (they all float), but also can be used in games of tug-of-war. And no one will get a splinter!

SUCCESSFUL STICK TOYS

The first toy stick for dogs I remember seeing for sale was the Kong Company’s Safestix. It may not have been the first toy stick for dogs on the market, but its resemblance to an, ahem, adult human toy makes it unforgettable (and a bit uncomfortable to throw for your dog in public!). 

We like the fact that Safestix comes in three lengths, with the longest (27 inches!) being the best candidate among all the sticks for playing tug-of-war with larger dogs. But since safety is the whole reason we are looking at this category of dog toy, we have to downgrade the Safestix for Kong’s failure to disclose what the toy is made of, or whether it’s free of any chemicals (such as BPA, phthalates, or latex) that have been associated with health problems or allergies.

That’s why we gave our top rating to only two of the five products we tested. Only West Paw and RuffDawg manufacture their toys in the U.S. Also, both companies disclose the contents of their products – and both companies seem to do their homework about what dogs like, too: These continue to be the most popular toy sticks for unprompted play between our test dogs. 

WDJ's Product Ratings

The product has no redeeming value that we can appreciate.
one pawWe are including the product only because of its potential for improvement.
The product has some value, as well as some serious flaws. Some of its features may be useful in certain applications.
A good product, with one or two significant flaws.
As good as it gets. We strongly endorse the product.

Toy "Sticks" For Dogs, From First to Worst

WDJ RatingProduct Maker/Name Maker's WebsitePriceComments
West Paw Zwig$20
(Amazon)
13 3/4”. Top-rack dishwasher safe. Free of BPA and latex, the Zwig is made in the U.S. with recyclable, zero-waste Zogoflex. The product looks solid, but is hollow and squishable – not super-squishy; it’s much more dense than foam, but not as dense as rubber. All three test dogs seemed to enjoy the “mouth feel” of this toy, so it had to be protected from unauthorized chewing. Because it’s a little lighter than its competitors, it’s harder to throw very far. Like all West Paw products, Zwig is covered by the company’s “love it guarantee”: If you are unhappy with the performance of a West Paw product, you may ask for a one-time refund or replacement, per toy design. And if the product gets chewed or torn, send it back to the company; it will be sanitized, ground up, and used in the manufacture of more Zogoflex toys. Comes in three colors.
RuffDawg Stick$19
(Amazon)
12” (also comes in a 6” size for small dogs; the small version is called “Twig”). Made by Jefferson Rubber Works in Worcester, MA, with 100% rubber. Free of BPA, latex, or phthalate. The package calls it, “Rugged and stretchable, tear- and puncture-resistant.” That was our experience; the test dogs spontaneously chose this product over all the others for playing tug-of-war between themselves, and even so, it hasn’t shown any signs of rips or tears. It’s heaver than the Zwig and easier to throw. It’s also hollow and open at either end, so you can fill it with kibble or treats – or freeze it with canned food inside!
Kong Safestix$10 - $20
(Chewy)
As far as we know, this was the first toy “stick” on the dog toy market, so kudos to Kong for a good idea. It’s also available in three sizes: small (111/2”), medium (20”), and large (27”); we especially appreciate the longest one for when we are playing tug-of-war with our dogs. It’s also the most dense, heaviest of the products, so it’s the easiest to throw far. However, there is no information offered anywhere on the Kong website or the product package about what the Safestix is made of; a “durable material” is the only clue. Also, it’s made in China; we strongly prefer products that are made in the U.S., particularly when it’s not clear what they are made of!
Chuckit! Air Fetch Stick$9 - $12
(Amazon)
“Fetch hard, breathe easy” is the slogan on the package of this toy. The hollow, flexible design facilitates easy breathing and airflow while your dog carries the toy. That’s a cool concept, and particularly helpful for dogs who would be playing fetch in the water. Its light weight and flexibility make it difficult to throw very far; that’s maybe not an issue for some dog owners. However, like the Kong product, this is foreign-made (Vietnam) out of an unnamed material. Available in two sizes: small (7”) and large (12”).
one pawSpunky Pup Fetch & Glow Stick$7
(Amazon)
We will admit that we got excited about a glow-in-the-dark toy – but once it got here, we realized that it’s probably not a great idea to have dogs chew on an unidentified plastic-type of material that contains whatever makes it glow in the dark. This is a solid toy, more dense than its competitors, easy to throw but with an apparently less-appealing mouth-feel for the dogs (we never saw them pick it up on their own). 12”. Dishwasher safe. Made in China.

What To Expect From Your Dog’s Check Up at the Vet

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dog check up
Don't be afraid to ask your veterinarian questions or bring up concerns as she is examining your dog; your time together is limited, and most veterinarians are good multi-taskers.

How often your dog should be seen by your veterinarian, and what sort of routine screening diagnostics should be conducted, are highly dependent on your dog’s life stage and general health. That said, well-informed owners are in the best position to ensure that their dogs receive the optimum care and attention from their veterinarians.

WHAT’S NORMAL FOR EACH LIFE STAGE VET CHECK UP

For puppies, monthly exams are recommended for vaccinations as well as monitoring the pups’ growth, nutritional status, tooth alignment/development, and general health as the puppy grows and develops. Training and behavioral issues will be addressed as you roll along, and any necessary vaccines given at the appropriate intervals.

Regarding vaccinations, you and your veterinarian should do a personalized risk assessment, based on the lifestyle and environment you share with your dog, before determining which vaccines are right for your dog. Then, follow your veterinarian’s advice regarding boosting frequency and intervals.

During young to middle adulthood (1 to 6 years) annual exams are sufficient for healthy dogs with no medical issues. If your dog suffers from things like allergies, ear infections, gastrointestinal problems, or behavioral/anxiety issues, you will see your veterinarian more frequently, as needed.

The recommendation for healthy senior dogs (7+ years) is to have wellness exams twice a year. Time starts moving a little faster for these guys, bringing with it a higher likelihood of medical problems that may not be outwardly apparent to you, but may be picked up by your veterinarian with physical exam and diagnostics. The earlier an issue is identified, the better the chance of either resolving or successfully managing it. Examples include dental disease, oral tumors, ocular disease, kidney issues, abdominal masses, and anal gland tumors. Having your senior dog examined every six months means catching these things conceivably six months earlier than you would with annual exams.

A THOROUGH PHYSICAL EXAM FOR YOUR DOG

If you’ve ever wondered what your vet is doing while examining your dog, here’s a summary of a typical wellness visit for dogs:

  • Body Condition Score (BCS). Vet checks to determine if your dog is underweight, overweight, or at a healthy weight.
  • Muscle Condition Score (MCS). This is especially important in senior pets, a measure of general health, strength, and vitality.
  • Eye exam (with a light source). Vet checks vision and looks for any infection, inflammation, eyelid abnormalities, dry eye syndrome, or tumors.
  • Ear exam (with an otoscope). Vet looks for signs of infection or tumors/polyps.
  • Mouth. Vet checks tooth and gum health and hydration status, looks for signs of infection or tumors, and checks color of mucous membranes (pink = normal, pale = anemia, yellow = jaundice, blue/grey = hypoxia/low oxygen level).
  • Throat. Vet checks for collapsing trachea.
  • Peripheral lymph nodes. Vet palpates these, looking for signs of cancer or infection.
  • Skin. The quality of the dog’s coat can indicate problems with nutrition or endocrine disorders; vet also checks for infections, parasites, lumps and bumps, and the dog’s hydration status.
  • Abdomen. Vet palpates for signs of discomfort, fluid, organ enlargement, tumors, or bladder pain.
  • Rectal exam. Vet looks for signs of tumors, polyps, anal gland impaction/tumor, and checks the prostate in males.
  • Genitalia. Vet looks for any abnormal discharge or tumors.
  • Heart/pulses. Vet listens to heart for sounds that indicate murmurs or arrhythmia, and checks heart rate, pulse strength, and rhythm. 
  • Lungs. Vet checks respiratory rate and listens to breath sounds throughout the lungs; do they sound normal or harsh or wheezy, are there quiet areas (indicating fluid or tumor).
  • Temperature. Taking the dog’s temperature is not generally necessary to check during a well visit. If you would like it checked, just ask!

As you can see, there is a ton of information to be had about your dog’s health with the physical exam. And don’t worry if we chat with you and ask questions about your dog while we perform our exam. We’ve done it a million times, our systematic exam is deeply ingrained, and we’re multi-taskers by nature. 

Be sure and bring a list of any general questions you may have. Time in the exam room goes by quickly, and you don’t want to miss an opportunity to discuss your concerns face to face with your veterinarian.

Find The Right Veterinary Partner

Your relationship with your veterinarian is a partnership in every sense of the word. In a partnership, two entities come together, working toward and sharing the same goal. In this case, the goal is the health, happiness, and longevity of your dog. A successful partnership, especially in the veterinary setting, requires open, effective communication and mutual trust and respect. This relationship is a big component of your dog’s overall care, so if it doesn’t feel right, it’s well worth the time and effort to find a better fit for you and your dog. You want someone who is patient (with both you and your dog!), who listens and addresses all of your concerns, every time; who understands and respects your goals as well as your limitations; who offers you options (when there are options) and coaches you through the decision-making. The bottom line is, if your vet is someone your respect and trust, following his or her advice with confidence is much easier. It means you can relax and know that you are doing the absolute best that you can for your faithful companion.

DIAGNOSTIC TESTS

It’s a good idea to have a chemistry screen (chem) and complete blood count (CBC) done on your healthy young dog, to serve as a baseline for his future tests. For many dogs, this is accomplished with pre-anesthetic bloodwork at the time of spay/neuter surgery. If your dog is going to remain intact, consider chem and CBC tests at his first annual adult exam. This can be done at the same time as his recommended annual heartworm and tick blood test. 

An annual fecal exam for parasites is recommended. This is important because of the zoonotic risk intestinal parasites pose for humans and because of recently emerging intestinal parasite resistance to monthly heartworm/parasite preventatives.

After this, until your dog becomes a senior, how often to repeat wellness chem/CBC screening is really up to you and your vet. It’s good practice to test annually, as information is power. Ask your veterinarian what seems most appropriate for you and your dog. If she tells you it’s not necessary, but you want to do it, just ask. Conversely, if your veterinarian recommends it and you don’t want to do it, ask what risks you may be taking by declining the recommended testing, then make an informed decision for your dog. 

If there are medical issues common to your dog’s breed, bring a list of what you’ve found and ask your veterinarian about the clinical relevance and whether there are screening tests that might identify the problem early. 

For example, Dobermans are prone to dilated cardiomyopathy, so if you own a Doberman or Doberman-mix, you might ask about an annual NT-proBNP (a blood test that suggests heart enlargement) and an echocardiogram (cardiac ultrasound). 

In addition to twice-annual wellness checks for senior dogs, it’s a good idea to employ an increased number of screening diagnostics for them, too. A chem/CBC, urinalysis, and fecal should be considered at least annually. If your senior dog is on a chronic medication, whether it be for pain or anxiety or allergies, checking his blood chemistry twice a year is worth consideration. These are generally the screening diagnostics recommended along with the annual heartworm/tick-borne disease test.

Other diagnostic tests, like thyroid hormone, urine culture, blood pressure check, x-rays, and ultrasound are entertained on a case-by-case basis. Again, if there is a screening test you are interested in, just ask. 

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