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Dog Food, Protein, and Sustainability

By
Nancy Kerns
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close up of cricket for cricket dog food
Crickets are just one of the alternative sources of protein increasingly being used in pet food and treats. The production of insect-sourced protein has a far lighter environmental impact than the production of conventional animal-protein sources. Photo Credits: Petrp / Dreamstime.com

What if we could give millions of pets a healthier, happier life and, in the process, make our planet healthier, too?” That’s the question that a pet food company called Jiminy’s was founded to answer back in 2016. Jiminy’s hoped to meet this lofty goal by replacing conventional sources of animal protein (such as chicken and beef) in its dog food with protein obtained from commercially grown crickets. 

Yes, crickets. According to the calculator provided on Jiminy’s website, replacing a 50-pound dog’s beef-based food for one year with a cricket-based food containing the same amount of protein would save almost 3 million gallons of water, reduce the production of greenhouse gases equivalent to driving an average car more than 4,000 miles, and use 23 acres less land. 

THE COSTS OF PROTEIN PRODUCTION

Protein is, of course, a critical component in dog diets. Animal-sourced proteins are the most commonly used proteins in pet food. In 2021, a report commissioned by the American Feed Industry Association’s Institute for Feed Education and Research, the Pet Food Institute, and the North American Renderers Association estimated that U.S. pet food manufacturers purchase 6.9 billion pounds of animal protein per year (report quoted by Pet Food Processing magazine). 

According to a study published in 2017 by a researcher at the University of California – Los Angeles, dogs and cats are responsible for 25% to 30% of the environmental impact of meat consumption in the U.S. American pets consume more meat than humans in most countries worldwide.

The production of all those food-animal proteins has an enormous impact on the planet. Beef production is the largest driver of deforestation in South America. Producing a kilogram of beef causes the emission of almost 100 kilograms of greenhouse gas; by comparison, the production of one kilogram of peas results in a little less than one kilogram of greenhouse gas emissions. The production of both food animals and the food that must be produced to feed the food animals requires massive amounts of water; it’s estimated that 70% of all the freshwater withdrawals on the planet go to agriculture.

INDUSTRY RESPONSE

Jiminy’s may have gone further than any other company to directly address the environmental impact of pet food production, but it isn’t the only company making these calculations; the entire pet food industry has sustainability on its mind. 

With an ever-growing global human population, there is ever-increasing competition for ingredients that can sustain humans and their pets alike. That causes the cost of the nutrients that dogs require to continually increase – and the cost of dog food to rise accordingly.

Pet food makers have a number of different tactics for meeting their consumers’ needs for protein. Each of these protein sources offer benefits and pose concerns for both the canine consumers they are made for and the planet. Most use a combination of the following:

  • Human-edible animal-source proteins
  • Meats and meat by-products that are not human-edible 
  • Plant-sourced proteins
  • Insect-sourced protein

Historically, we’ve advocated for what we believe is nutritionally healthiest for dogs – the use of the highest-quality animal-protein sources that dog owners can afford – to the exclusion of all other factors (and that will continue to be the primary selection factor in our dog food reviews). After all, the amino-acid profiles of animal-sourced proteins more perfectly meet dogs’ nutritional requirements than plant-sourced proteins. 

But perhaps we should all consider, at least once, the deleterious effect on the environment of producing all of that food – just for our pets. If the most dire predictions about climate change come to pass, dogs in the future will be fed very differently than they are now. 

Considering 'Humanely Raised'

We know more than a few vegans and vegetarians who own dogs. Some feed their dogs vegan or vegetarian diets, not wanting to support the production and death of any food-source animals, even for their own dogs’  benefit. 

Others feed their dogs conventional foods that contain animal-sourced proteins. A subset of these friends buy only those dog foods that offer third-party certifications that the meat sources used in the foods were humanely raised and/or wild-caught. 

We’re not vegetarians nor vegans, but we’ve always admired the concept of “humanely raised” meats, and have sought to support companies that offer products with humane certifications. But we’d never before seen the particular animal-welfare consideration illustrated in this graphic, which we found on the Jiminy’s website:

cricket dog food table
Courtesy of Jiminy’s

Jiminy’s calls their food and treats “humane” partly because the insects used as the primary protein source in their products are able to live for a far greater percentage of what would otherwise be their natural life than any other food-species animals. 

Jiminy’s also considers its products humane because of the way insects used in the food are raised and harvested. According to the company, “Crickets are naturally a swarming species and like being in a dark, warm place. They’re raised in cricket condos (inside barns) which allow the crickets to live in a way as close as possible to how they would live in the natural world. They are free to hop from feed station to feed station and can burrow deep into the condos if they choose. Harvesting time comes near the end of their natural life cycle – which is approximately 6 weeks. This comes after they have mated and laid their eggs. At the end, temperature is lowered and they go into a hibernation-like state before they’re harvested.”

HUMAN-EDIBLE MEATS AND MEAT BY-PRODUCTS

The phrase “edible” confuses everyone; isn’t all food edible? Well, no; not by the official definition of the word in this country. According to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), the word “edible” means that it’s wholesome (untainted and fresh) and safe for humans to eat. People often use the phrase “human grade” to describe the same type of ingredient as “edible” but “human grade” has no legal definition.

“Meat” has a legal definition, and it refers to the muscle tissue of food-source animals. 

There are a number of edible meat by-products (sometimes referred to as “offal”); these are non-muscle parts of slaughtered animals that are eaten but have been cut from a dressed carcass. These include foods such as liver, tongue, hearts, and pigs feet. 

Human-edible animal-source proteins are among the most expensive ingredients that pet food makers have at their disposal. Since they have to pass the same inspections as for the foods we eat, they are as wholesome and nutritious as possible. They are kept clean and chilled throughout processing.

There are a very few products made for pets in human-food manufacturing facilities (see “Human Grade Dog Food,” WDJ December 2021”). There are probably more pet food makers that use human-edible meats in their products (mostly refrigerated and frozen diets), but unless the products are made with 100% human-edible ingredients in USDA-inspected human-food manufacturing plants, they cannot make “human-grade” claims on their labels or marketing materials.

Of all the protein sources available to pet food makers, meat and meat by-products have the greatest deleterious effect on the environment. 

“NON-EDIBLE” MEATS AND MEAT BY-PRODUCTS

Non-edible meats include those that didn’t pass inspection for human consumption or have passed their sell-by date. Meat by-products include many nutritious parts of the animal that humans don’t typically eat, including organs, stomachs, intestines, bones, and poultry “frames” (what’s left of a bird after the feet, wings, neck, head, organs, and most of the meat have been removed). Blood, collected from freshly killed animals before they are butchered, is also considered a meat by-product. 

Some meat by-products are used in canned, fresh/refrigerated, and frozen pet foods. Most meat by-products, however, are rendered – subjected to a process that separates the fat from the proteins, removes most of the moisture, and kills any pathogens present; the result is a low-moisture meal. According to the North American Renderers Association, without rendering, roughly 50% of each meat animal would go to waste. 

We’ve recently become convinced of the value of a meat by-product that we were strongly opposed to in the past: spray-dried porcine and bovine plasma. Blood is collected in slaughterhouses that are specially equipped for its capture. The blood is chilled and transported in food-grade, species-dedicated tank trucks to processing plants where it is treated with ultraviolet photopurification, centrifuged (to remove red and white blood cells), concentrated, and dried.

Plasma contains albumin proteins with bioactive peptides and immunoglobulin G (IgG). Studies indicate that its inclusion in canine diets support immune and gut health. It’s been used as a thickener in canned foods for some time, often disguised under another of its legal names, “natural flavor.” Increasingly, it’s being added to dry dog foods as a palatant (reportedly, dogs love its taste) and protein booster.

Over the years, mankind has gotten increasingly inventive in finding uses for by-products of the meat industry. If these materials went unused, it would make the environmental impact of their production even more egregious than it is. 

PLANT PROTEINS IN DOG FOOD

There are a number of protein-containing grains and legumes (and grain and legume by-products) used in dog food production. Some have been used for many decades; others are just emerging as potential replacements for animal-protein sources. The most commonly used plant proteins used in pet food include:

  • Algae (aquatic plant)
  • Beans
  • Brewers dried yeast
  • Chickpeas
  • Corn
  • Duckweed (aquatic plant)
  • Fava beans
  • Lentils
  • Lupin beans
  • Peas
  • Potatoes
  • Quinoa
  • Rapeseed
  • Rice
  • Soybeans
  • Sunflower seeds
  • Wheat 

The environmental impact of growing all of these plant sources of protein is far less than that of producing an equivalent amount of animal protein. However, more care must be taken to ensure the resulting products are formulated to fully meet the dog’s nutritional needs – the amino acids in particular. 

Another drawback of foods that contain only plant-sourced proteins is that they tend to be far less are less palatable to dogs. According to Pet Food Industry, characteristic off-flavors from plant proteins in pet food include bitterness and astringency. 

Finally, plant-derived protein sources also carry the risk of mycotoxins – toxins that are produced by fungi that can infect certain plants. The higher the inclusion of ingredients that can be contaminated with mycotoxins, the higher the risk of mycotoxin poisoning.

INSECT-SOURCED PROTEIN DOG FOOD

As previously mentioned, crickets are being used by Jiminy’s in treats and its “Cricket Crave” dog food. Cricket protein is reportedly more expensive than any animal protein, but as more entrepreneurs figure out cricket farming, and more commercial cricket farms come onto line, the price of this unique protein will descend. 

Cricket protein production has an exponentially smaller carbon footprint and less water consumption than conventional animal protein production. Nutritionally, it has some other advantages: It’s highly digestible, exceeds the amino acid requirements set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), and (due to its fiber content), functions as a prebiotic (a microbial food source that promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria in the gut). 

Jiminy’s also uses another protein sourced from dried larvae of the black soldier fly. Nestlé has announced it’s launching a pet food that contains this protein, initially to be sold only in Switzerland, and there are several other foreign pet food manufacturers offering dog food containing insect meal. These foods are promising, but given their newness and dearth of feeding trials, we’d recommend using them only in rotation with more conventional diets. 

On The Fence

By
Nancy Kerns
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6

I’ve been fostering a very special scruffy-faced pup for a little more than two months now. It pains me to say that, while I truly do love him to pieces, I am still on the fence about whether or not to keep him. 

I’ve justified his extra-long stay here with a couple of different excuses. At first, it was because I wanted the chubby, wobbly puppy to lose a little weight and develop a little muscle; it seemed like he had trouble with his knees. I thought it would be best to be certain that his lack of strength and coordination was simply due to a lack of opportunity to exercise and not some serious abnormality that should be addressed or corrected before we tried to find him a home. I wouldn’t want him to get placed with someone who had neither the time nor resources to fix whatever problem he might have. 

He was so much bigger and thicker than the litter of 11 unrelated pups I was also fostering, and didn’t appear to be any particular breed or type, so I went ahead and ordered a mixed-breed DNA test for him. I told my husband that since we had no clue about his breed, we’d have a hard time telling prospective adopters how big he might become. I told my friends that I was waiting for the results before promoting him for adoption, so I could better represent him as something or other, to make sure he ended up in a home that was appropriate for his size. 

The litter of 11 all went back to the shelter and got adopted, he slimmed down and muscled up, and his legs started looking fine. The DNA tests results came back and indicated he’s going to be a medium-large dog. According to Wisdom Panel, he’s (in descending order) American Staffordshire Terrier, American Pit Bull Terrier, Boxer, German Wirehaired Pointer, American Bulldog, English Springer Spaniel, Great Dane, Australian Cattle Dog, German Shorthaired Pointer, Labrador, and  In other words, medium-large. 

Then, my husband and I were leaving for a week’s vacation, and I didn’t have time to show him to anyone before we left, so he stayed with my sister-in-law and niece while we were gone. (They fell in love with him, too.) When we got home, I was busy doing all the things that pile up while you’re away on vacation, which meant no time to schedule any meet-and-greets.

Though my stated reason to not keep the puppy has been to give Otto, my 14 1/2-year-old dog, a peaceful last year or so, the puppy hasn’t really been bothering Otto at all. Help! I’m running out of excuses!  

Flat-Faced Dogs: Tragically Cute

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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1
flat face pug brachycephalic dog
Producers of some of the brachycephalic breeds have taken the face-flattening trend further than others, that's why some of the brachycephalic breeds have more health problems related to their anatomy than others. In particular trouble are the Boston Terrier, English Bulldog, French Bulldog, Pekenese and Pug. Photo Credit: Irina Stolyarova / Dreamstime.com

Brachycephalic dog breeds, while incredibly cute, are the result of repeated passing on of genetic defects of the bones of the face and skull. While these anatomical defects create the cuteness we can’t resist, they also cause a multitude of problems. Owners and potential adopters of flat-faced dogs should be aware of the most prevalent anatomical problems suffered by these dogs and what extra care is required to keep them alive and well.

  • Breathing problems. The most dire problems suffered by brachycephalic dogs are breathing issues. While the bony structures of the skull became shorter with breeding that selected for increasingly flat-faced dogs, the soft tissue structures inside did not – so the tissue lining the airway from the nostrils to the trachea is essentially all bunched up in a shorter space. The result is partial blocking of airflow, making breathing more difficult, even at rest and even in a cool environment.

Breathing issues due to scrunched-up/pushed-in facial anatomy is so common it has a name: Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS). Signs of BOAS include snoring, snorting, increased respiratory effort, wheezing, gagging, heat intolerance, and exercise intolerance. The mucous membranes of severely affected dogs may turn blue and the dogs may collapse when stressed or overheated. If the brachycephalic dog is overweight, the danger of these symptoms is exponentially worse. 

There are multiple places along the upper airway where obstruction can occur, starting at the nostrils, which may be collapsed or closed off (this is known as “stenotic nares”). The soft palate is frequently too long, resulting in airway obstruction. Pouches on the sides of the larynx can get sucked into the airway with each breath (everted laryngeal saccules), the entire larynx can collapse with the increased inspiratory pressure, and the dog may have prominent nasopharyngeal turbinates (little prominences whose purpose is to humidify inhaled air) that become obstructive. Many brachycephalic dogs also have narrow tracheas (tracheal hypoplasia), which is another impediment to good air flow.

Corrective surgery should be considered for severely affected dogs. This involves referral to a board-certified veterinary surgeon and a veterinary hospital that offers 24-hour care. Pre-surgical diagnosis and planning may include a combination of chest x-rays, sedated laryngeal exam, and computed tomography (CT) scan. These dogs must be monitored closely after surgery, and throughout the night. While complications do occur, the prognosis is generally good, especially for dogs who are presented for surgery sooner rather than later.

  • Heat stress. All dogs are somewhat prone to heat stress because the mechanisms they have for dissipating body heat are not very effective. When our human bodies overheat, we sweat, profusely, from all over our body surfaces. This is a highly effective way to dissipate heat quickly and continuously. The only mechanism dogs possess for dissipating heat is panting. With every breath in and out, evaporative cooling occurs as air passes over the moist tongue and upper respiratory tissues. 

It’s not a great system – and the brachycephalic anatomy makes it even worse, as these dogs can’t move enough air with each breath for effective cooling to occur.

This makes it critically important for owners to manage these dogs’ exposure to heat, minimize their stress, and carefully monitor their breathing during exercise, even on a cool day. Maintain your brachycephalic dog at a healthy weight and body condition. If he or she is overweight now, work with your veterinarian on a weight-loss program. If you live in a hot, humid climate, keep your dog in air-conditioned housing. Do not exercise in the heat of the day; try early morning or late evening short outings instead. And never leave your dog unattended in a car, even on cool days with the windows cracked. Just don’t. 

  • Gastrointestinal issues. The brachycephalic dog’s structural abnormalities extend beyond their faces. Their upper stomach sphincter is often weak, resulting in frequent regurgitating, vomiting, gastroesophageal reflux, and esophagitis. The outlet to the stomach is frequently thick (pyloric stenosis), resulting in delayed gastric emptying and vomiting. Studies have shown gastritis is common in brachycephalic breeds. Hiatal hernias (where the stomach pushes through an oversized hole in the diaphragm) are another common brachycephalic abnormality.
  • Dental problems. As one can imagine, there isn’t enough room in the mouths of brachycephalic dogs to have a normal number of teeth in a normal arrangement. Dental overcrowding and crooked teeth are common. This can cause a painful malocclusion (misalignment of teeth, with teeth poking into the roof of the mouth), requiring either orthodontic correction or selective tooth extraction. The overcrowding of teeth makes them prone to tartar accumulation and dental disease, too.
  • Ear problems. Ear infections in brachycephalic breeds can be difficult to manage due to their very narrow ear canals. Infections frequently become chronic, and often spread to the middle ear, resulting in long-term pain and even neurologic impairment. It is not uncommon for the chronically infected brachycephalic ear to end up having surgery to remove the ear canal in its entirety, called a total ear canal ablation (TECA).
  • Corneal ulcers. Brachycephalic breeds are prone to corneal ulcers, because of their very cute (but not very practical), prominent eyeballs. Their corneas are known to have decreased sensitivity, so they don’t notice as well as we would if something gets in their  eye and damages it. 

Additionally, the eyelids don’t always close all the way when blinking over these big eyeballs, so blinking is less effective at clearing the corneas of debris. Big nasal folds also tend to rub on the inner half of the corneas, creating chronic irritation there.

  • Skin-fold infections. Speaking of nasal folds, these require careful hygienic maintenance to prevent severe dermatitis and infection, as does that cute, little, curly tail fold.
  • High-risk anesthetic patients. Finally, brachycephalic breeds are a nightmare to anesthetize due to their compromised airways and associated gastric issues. If your healthy brachycephalic dog has to be anesthetized for anything, the risk assessment for him or her is automatically higher than for other dogs. These dogs should always be given preoperative anti-vomiting and stomach acid-reducing medications to minimize the chance of regurgitation or vomiting under anesthesia, which puts them at risk for aspiration pneumonia. Endotracheal intubation must be done extremely carefully, due to the possibility of tracheal hypoplasia. 

The dogs must remain intubated until fully awake and aware because of their compromised airways, and they must be closely monitored, one on one, for an extended time postoperatively.

Brachycephalic Dog Breeds List
  • Affenpinscher
  • Boston Terrier
  • Boxer
  • Brussels Griffon
  • Bullmastiff
  • Cane Corso
  • Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
  • Chinese Shar Pei
  • Chow Chow
  • Dogue de Bordeaux
  • English Bulldog
  • English Toy Spaniel
  • French Bulldog
  • Japanese Chin
  • Lhasa Apso
  • Pekingese
  • Pug
  • Shih tzu

HOPING THIS FLAT-FACED DOG TREND REVERSES

In summary, brachycephalic breeds, while very cute, have been selectively bred for anatomical features that result in significant health problems and life-long discomfort and distress for them. 

My hope is to see a trend toward breeding for less of that super flat faced dog with bulging eyeballs and more for a longer nose and less prominent eyeballs. They would breathe better, live longer, have fewer GI problems, fewer ear and eye problems and still be super cute, if you ask me. 

Why Do Dogs Hump (and What You Can Do)

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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6
why do dogs hump
There are many reasons that dogs engage in mounting or humping behaviors, few of them are overtly sexual - and none of them are about "dominance". Photo Credits: Koldunova Anna / Dreamstime.com

You may be embarrassed by your dog’s proclivity to mount other dogs, cushions or pieces of furniture, or even (horrors!) humans. You are not alone; dogs all over the world can be seen wrapping their front paws around what seems to us to be inappropriate targets and thrusting their pelvis in what appears to be sexual behavior. 

Mounting and/or humping is a natural, normal canine behavior – and it’s not just male dogs who mount; female dogs do it too! – but it’s one that humans all over the world tend to get upset about. Sadly, many caretakers see the behavior as grossly unacceptable, and their dogs may suffer for it. 

Such was the case in late March, when a North Carolina couple surrendered Fezco, their 5-year-old, 50-pound male Shepherd mix to their local shelter because they had observed him mounting another male dog and were aghast at the thought of having a “gay dog” in their home. The uneducated owners were apparently unaware that while there are a number of reasons why dogs “hump” other dogs, being gay is not considered to be one of them. (Happily, when this story made national news, the dog found a forever home with a gay couple elsewhere in North Carolina.)

The misinterpretation is somewhat understandable; humping sure looks like sex! But reproduction is only one of the many reasons your dog may mount dogs, humans, or objects, and those reasons are far more common than the intent to breed:

  • Reproduction. If you’re intentionally trying to have your female dog impregnated, you’re happy to have humping happen. If not, manage the behavior by separating the dogs until the female’s heat period is done; then talk to your vet about spay/neuter surgery.
  • Play. Yes friends, this can be a normal part of play interaction between dogs, including but not limited to puppies. As long as both puppies are enjoying the play and the mounting isn’t excessive to the point is becomes oppressive to the mountee, you can leave them alone and let them play. 
  • Stress and/or anxiety. Your dog may mount other dogs (or whatever) as a means to relieve stress. You’ll see this most often in dogs who tend to be stressed. Again, there’s no real harm in allowing the behavior in the moment, but you would do well to reduce stress in the dog’s world and address the generalized anxiety so he no longer feels the need to mount to try to relieve his stress.
  • Excitement and/or arousal. Some dogs are inclined to mount when they get over-excited – for example, when visitors arrive at your home. You can manage this by putting your dog away in another room before (or when) people arrive and bringing him back out on leash when things have settled down. Keep him on leash for controlled greetings (restrain so he can’t mount visitors’ legs) and let him off leash only when he is over his initial excitement.
  • Attention-seeking. Dogs are pretty good at figuring out what they need to do to get what they want. If they want your attention and you hustle over to stop them every time they mount someone or something – mission accomplished! The game is on, just like the dog who learns to pick up forbidden objects so you’ll chase after him. The answer: Find a different way to intervene when intervention is called for.
  • Masturbation. This can be due to a medical issue – a urinary tract infection or allergies, perhaps, that cause the dog’s private parts to itch or be painful. It’s always a good idea to have your dog checked by your veterinarian to see if there are any medical issues causing or contributing to behavior challenges. But some dogs have learned that it feels good to hump a pillow, stuffed toy, or other animal – and behaviors that are self-reinforcing are likely to increase. 
  • Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD). This is a very rare cause for mounting behavior, but it can happen. If your dog’s behavior doesn’t seem to fall into any of the above descriptions, if it’s difficult if not impossible to interrupt the behavior, and he’s doing it with a frequency and intensity that is damaging his quality of life, then it may be due to an OCD. If you suspect this, a visit to a qualified behavior professional is in order. (See “Obsessive Compulsive Disorder in Dogs,” September 2010.)

IT’S NOT DOMINANCE!

There is a fairly widespread misconception that mounting behavior is about being “dominant.” It’s not. 

In behavior science, “dominance” is about gaining access to a mutually desired resource – it’s not about oppressing the other dogs in the social group. Sometimes one dog gets to be dominant in an interaction because they want the resource more and are less willing to defer, and sometimes the other dog gets the resource. Mounting has nothing to do with gaining access to a resource.

WHAT TO DO ABOUT IT

Just because mounting is a natural, normal behavior doesn’t mean you have to put up with your dog humping everything in sight! There are things you can do to decrease his need and opportunity to mount.

  • Rule out or treat any possible medical contributors to the behavior. All your modification efforts will be for naught if a medical condition is driving his mounting behavior.
  • Increase the amount of exercise your dog gets. This doesn’t have to be hours of hiking in the woods – you can use interactive games, cognition, and scent work to tire his brain as well as off-leash exercise to tire his body. This can help keep his excitement level down, so he feels less of a need to release his energy through mounting. Tired minds and bodies are less likely to need or want to run around humping. Increased exercise can also help reduce stress.

(For information about brain-engaging tools and exercises, see “The Best Food-Dispensing Toys,” WDJ April 2019; “How to Engage Your Dog’s Brain When Activity Is Restricted,” March 2021; and “How to Teach Your Dog to Play Nose Games,” September 2019.)

  • Look for ways to reduce your dog’s stress levels. Manage his exposure to things that worry him and get rid of any stressors you’re able to (such as shock, choke, or prong collars; verbal or physical punishment; and other aversive training techniques). Also, use counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D, carefully pairing high-value reinforcers with things that worry him) to change his opinion of his stressors. (For information about reducing your dog’s stress, see “Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization,” March 2020, and “Stressed Out,” April 2020.)
  • For dogs who mount others too persistently in play, occasionally use a “positive interrupt.” The idea is to move him away from the other dogs and give him several minutes of quiet time to reduce his arousal level. If you cheerfully interrupt every time your dog becomes too much of a pest to his playmates, he may learn to self-modulate his mounting behavior. At worst, you can use it to easily let him calm down while giving his play pals a break as needed.

My favorite positive interrupting exercise is “Walk Away,” which teaches a dog to not just leave alone the object of his interest, but also to return to you for a reinforcing treat.  (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away!” September 2018.) 

  • If you haven’t already, make a commitment to good manners training for your dog. This may take the form of group classes, private training, or training on your own if you have these skills. Teach your dog how to greet people politely to reduce excitement mounting, as well as a multitude of other useful behaviors (Down, Touch, Go to Your Mat, etc.). 

The more he responds to your cues for a variety of behaviors, the more easily you’ll be able to ask him for alternative, incompatible behaviors when he gets that humping gleam in his eye. Plus, the better the two of you can communicate, the less stressful life is for both of you! (And remember, the less stressed he is, the less likely to mount.)

  • Finally, get ready to make some judgment calls. You’ll want to be able to determine which of your dog’s mounting behaviors might be innocuous and allowed to continue, and which need intervention and/or behavior modification assistance. Your friends will be relieved when they can come visit without having intimate relations with your dog, and your dog (and his friends) will be happy that they can engage in normal play activities. 

Help! Why Does My Dog Eat Poop?

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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why do dogs eat poop
If your dog habitually hunts for and eats feces, the behavior gets reinforced each time he finds and is able to consume some. Managing his access to feces is your best bet. At home scoop poop promptly, and out in the world using a leash (and perhaps a positively introduced muscle) to prevent his access to feces may be the best you can do to control the behavior. Photo Credits: Taticmania / Dreamstime.com

Why do dogs eat poop – especially their own? It’s so gross! There’s nothing worse than when your dog eats a fresh piece of poop and then, in response to your shrieks of horror and dismay, tries to lick you in an appeasement gesture. 

Poop eating – or “coprophagia,” to use the scientific term – isn’t just disgusting to us. Your dog may be ingesting intestinal parasites and/or disease pathogens such as parvovirus, toxoplasmosis, or giardia along with the feces.

Unfortunately for us, coprophagia is common in dogs – a natural, normal behavior. Dogs may eat all kinds of poop – deer, horse, bunny, even human poop. Cat feces seems to be especially delectable.

No one knows for sure, but some theories commonly offered to explain why dogs eat poop:

  • It tastes good (natural/normal behavior).
  • Intestinal parasites, endocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI), underfeeding, or poor diet have deprived the dog of needed nutrients, leading to an instinctive urge to eat novel sources of nutrients. 
  • Eating feces can recolonize the gut with a different/healthier microflora; dogs may possess some natural instinct to eat feces to improve their own digestion.
  • Den cleanliness instinct: Mother dogs naturally eat puppies’ poop to clean the den.
  • Some medications can make a dog very hungry.
  • Stress/anxiety, boredom, and attention-seeking can cause/contribute to coprophagia.

WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR DOG EATS POOP

You must first explore possible medical causes. Talk with your veterinarian and follow her recommendations to diagnose and treat or rule out medical issues. If stress, anxiety, and/or boredom are the cause, reduce stress and add enrichment to your dog’s world. If you need help, consult a qualified force-free dog-training professional.

Once any medical reasons are ruled out, try management: Scoop promptly after your dog(s), put cat litterboxes where he can’t access them, keep him away from the manure pile, and use “Walk Away” or “Leave It” cues to move him away from temptation when walking on trails where horses or other animals may have eliminated. Consider, too, using counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) to teach your dog to love wearing a muzzle, and use it when you and your dog are in locations where feces might be found. 

Alternatively, accept that it’s a natural, normal canine behavior and grin and bear it when your dog dives into a pile of poo on the hiking trail.

By the way, all those products out there you can feed to your dog to make his poop taste bad? I’m sorry to report that they pretty much don’t work. 

Apple Cider Vinegar for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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14
apple cider vinegar for dogs
Buyers who are unfamiliar with apple cider vinegar brands (like this one) that contain "mother of vinegar" would not be blamed for thinking the vinegar has gone bad. The "mother" - a gelatinous biofilm that can be seen floating in the vinegar - is a colony of beneficial bacteria called Acetobacter.

According to its advocates, apple cider vinegar (ACV) is one of the least expensive, most versatile, and most effective canine health aids. 

Applied topically it’s a popular treatment for:

  • Itchy, flaking skin and dull coats
  • Flea infestations
  • Sore muscles
  • Ear infections
  • “Doggy” skin and coat odors

Taken internally, apple cider vinegar is said to:

  • Improve digestion
  • Help prevent urinary tract infections
  • Fight yeast infections
  • Relieve arthritis symptoms
  • Extract medicinal properties from plants when used to make alcohol-free herbal tinctures

WHAT IS VINEGAR, ANYWAY?

All vinegars are made from liquid containing sugar, and cider vinegar begins as a blend of water and apples or apple pectin, a soluble fiber. When exposed to air, which allows yeasts to grow, the natural sugars in apples ferment and become alcohol. As fermentation continues, acetic acid bacteria turn the alcohol into acetic acid, which is vinegar’s main component. Acetic acid gives vinegar its distinctive taste, odor, and properties. 

Because of vinegar’s culinary uses, most groceries carry a variety, such as balsamic (a thick, intensely flavored grape vinegar), white or red wine vinegar, and vinegars made from malt, rice, champagne, sherry, beer, and various fruits. 

Distilled white vinegar is widely sold in the U.S. Made from grains, it has a sharp, distinct flavor and fragrance, and it’s popular as a household cleaning agent and an ingredient in salad dressings, pickles, catsup, and barbecue sauces.

In contrast, apple cider vinegar is often sold as a raw (unpasteurized) product containing the vinegar’s “mother,” a cloudy substance containing unfiltered acetic acid bacteria. Unpasteurized, unfiltered vinegar is preferred by those who consider vinegar a health supplement.

APPLE CIDER VINEGAR AND YOUR DOG

Reports about the health benefits of cider vinegar are anecdotal because no clinical trials testing cider vinegar’s effect on dogs have been published in the medical literature. This does not mean that claims about its uses have been disproven; they simply haven’t been tested, mostly because apple cider vinegar is inexpensive, widely available, and cannot be patented. 

Some of the claims are exaggerations. For example, cider vinegar is often called a nutritional powerhouse, full of vitamins and minerals, but this is inaccurate. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, raw cider vinegar contains 11 milligrams (mg) potassium per tablespoon, but that is its only significant nutrient. 

Apple cider vinegar won’t cure your dog’s cancer, and while it might help prevent urinary tract infections, it isn’t a cure for that condition. 

Apple cider vinegar is usually administered to dogs:

  • Diluted by adding apple cider vinegar to your dog’s water (such as 1 part apple cider vinegar diluted in 3 to 5 or more parts water or another liquid),
  • One-to-one or 50-50 (equal parts of apple cider vinegar and water or liquid), or
  • Full-strength (undiluted) carefully applied with a cotton ball, sponge, or dropper.

Apple cider vinegar can be used as a mild cleaner and disinfectant in the following ways: 

  • Dilute cider vinegar 50-50 with water and apply with a sprayer or sponge immediately after bathing to remove leftover soap residue, alleviate dandruff and itchy skin, condition hair, and repel fleas. To help prevent dander, rub diluted cider vinegar into the dog’s skin just before bathing and wash it off. 
  • A 50-50 cider vinegar soak or rinse can soothe itchy feet, and it can be massaged into muscles strained by overactivity.
  • To make a simple ear cleaner that helps control yeast and fungus (do not apply to inflamed or broken skin), mix 2 tablespoons cider vinegar with 1 cup warm water. 
  • Diluted or full-strength cider vinegar can be sprayed as a deodorizer on dog toys and bedding. Added to laundry rinse water, it acts as a gentle disinfectant.

To help improve your dog’s coat, digestion, or overall condition:

  • Add apple cider vinegar to your dog’s water bowl, starting with a small amount, such as 1 tablespoon cider vinegar in a large bowl of water. Leave a bowl of plain water nearby as a backup in case your dog doesn’t like the taste. Dogs who are used to cider vinegar easily adjust to other water sources when vinegar is added to water while traveling. 
  • Cider vinegar can help digestion by increasing stomach acid levels, which may improve nutrient absorption. Start by adding small amounts to food or water and gradually increase to approximately 1 teaspoon per 15 pounds of body weight (about 1 tablespoon per 50 pounds). 
  • Some users report that organic unpasteurized, unfiltered cider vinegar added to food and water has helped relieve their dogs’ arthritis symptoms.
  • When adding cider vinegar to food or water, start with small amounts and, if your dog tolerates the taste, increase gradually. If the condition you hope to improve doesn’t change within 30 days, discontinue treatment. 
apple cider vinegar rinse after dog bath
Add apple cider vinegar to the rinse water after bathing your dog to help control yeast or fugal infections, such as those that contribute to itchy paws. Photo Credits: Serezniy / Dreamstime.com
  • A washing solution of 1 part vinegar in 3 parts water has been shown to remove 98% of bacteria, out-performing antibacterial soap. Use the solution and a scrub brush on vegetables that will be included in a dog’s raw, home-prepared diet, and rinse in clean water. 
  • For a fragrant coat conditioner, loosely fill a glass jar half full with dried rose petals or lavender blossoms, cover with cider vinegar, and let stand for a month or more. Strain, then lightly spray onto wet hair after bathing.

USE APPLE CIDER VINEGAR IN TINCTURES

Most herbal tinctures are alcohol-based, but cider vinegar is a preferred solvent for tinctures for dogs. In her book Herbal Recipes for Vibrant Health (Storey Publishing, 2008), herbalist and dog-lover Rosemary Gladstar recommends placing chopped fresh or dried herbs in a glass jar (if using dried herbs, fill the jar only halfway to allow for expansion), then gently heat raw organic cider vinegar, cover the herbs with warm (not hot) vinegar, leave a 2- to 3-inch margin, close the lid, and let the herbs soak for four to six weeks. Shake the jar daily. Strain and store the tincture in dark cobalt or amber glass bottles, label, and keep away from heat and light. 

In addition to herbs listed in her books and in canine herbal references, Gladstar recommends a garlic/dandelion vinegar tincture as a general tonic and to help dogs repel parasites. Use fresh or dried dandelion leaves, roots, and blossoms with an approximately equal amount of garlic and follow the instructions above. 

Add tinctures to your dog’s food in small amounts, gradually increasing to 1/4 teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight per day. 

Learn more about Apple Cider Vinegar Tinctures.

CAUTIONS FOR APPLE CIDER VINEGAR FOR DOGS

Because of its acidity, cider vinegar should be diluted for most canine uses. Avoid the eyes, mucous membranes, and open cuts or abrasions as vinegar will sting if applied to broken skin.

Vinegar should not be used where it could stain or damage wood floors, cabinets, or granite countertops. Cider vinegar is orange-brown in color, so its topical application is not recommended for dogs with white or light coats or for use where it can stain white or light colored carpets or fabrics. 

Before applying diluted cider vinegar to a skin-sensitive dog, test a small area of bare skin with the solution and check 24 hours later for any sign of irritation, itching, or scratching. If your dog doesn’t have an adverse reaction, use moderate amounts such as those described here. Feeding too much cider vinegar can led to vomiting, damage to dental enamel, and mouth irritation. 

How to Pick Up a Puppy

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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6
child holding puppy
The boy is happy, but is the puppy? Give the pup the choice to stay or go - then you'll know. In this case, we helped this sweet boy to put some support under the pups rear, and eliminate the 4-paw dangle, and the puppy chose to snuggle in and stay.

When you see a little puppy, the most natural thing in the world is to run over and swoop her into your arms for a nice big cuddle!

I beg you: Don’t do that. It may feel wonderful to you, but the odds are you just created a moment of fear for that puppy. 

PUPPIES GROWL OUT OF FEAR

Style matters, and the seemingly simple pick-up approach above includes three unfortunate choices: The surprise, the swoop, the squeeze. Each of those elements creates discomfort in a being who is new to our human world. (Nobody on Planet Dog picks anybody else up!) To complete the picture of terror, there’s often optional element #4: The Squeal. 

Sometimes, people contact me in a bit of a panic because the puppy they got last week is growling at them, and it’s getting worse every day. A quick home visit usually reveals that these nice folks are in the surprise-swoop-squeeze camp. They are unintentionally terrifying their pup, and the pup is learning to fend off that moment with a growl. 

While that’s a bummer, it’s also great news – because it means we can probably fix this in a jiffy by creating a new pick-up process that will build the missing trust.

RULE #1: NO SURPRISING!

It’s scary for puppies when they are picked up completely by surprise. One minute they’re just hanging out – maybe even sound asleep – and the next they’re up in the air! Sure, some pups will roll with it, but for many others it’s alarming. 

You can avoid the surprise factor by altering your approach. No running! No zooming! Just stroll over so pup has a chance to see you’re on your way. Then crouch down, and take a moment to say hi with a gentle stroke. All along, provide a nice low-volume voice-over for extra reassurance and preparation: “Hi sweet pup. How about I come say hello?” That advance warning system means the puppy has a chance to catch up to the action. 

Extra help: For a pup who has already been growling about handling, a cue word is a nice thing to add. A consistent heads-up in the form of a cheery, “1-2-3 time for a pick-up!” can be a game-changer. It helps pup learn to be ready when that’s about to happen and to totally relax when it’s not.

RULE #2: NO SWOOPING!

Even if you eliminate the element of surprise, you still may hear a growl if your pup feels unsafe in the air. That’s why the second rule of the perfect pick-up is this: No swoop-and-dangle allowed. Your new pup doesn’t want the thrill of an amusement park ride.

Help her feel safe with you by using a slow, cradling motion that keeps her body supported 100% of the time: One hand underneath, the other softly against her chest and shoulder. Bonus points for continuing your quiet voiceover: “Aw, there we go, we’re just going to move over here, you’re my sweetie girl . . .” Don’t stand up too quickly – give pup the old, creaky elevator experience rather than the one that whisks you ridiculously fast to the top floor.

Extra help: If you’re doing remedial work, it can help to have a chew, a toy, or a piece of jerky in your hand as you say, “1-2-3 time for a pick-up!” This way you can distract pup from her worries and create a positive association with the feeling of being handled in this way.

RULE #3: NO SQUEEZE-AND-TRAP!

Once pup is in your arms as you’re standing, you can extend her lesson in trust by slowly, gently putting her right back down. For some puppies, the worst part of a pick-up is the dreaded squeeze-n-trap! Humans love to trap puppies in what they call a loving hug. Alas, the puppy might call it terrifying jail time. 

Nobody – not one human, not one dog – wants their body to be held against their will. And yet somehow we think puppies are supposed to sit endlessly in our laps, or cherish being carried around by us, so we make them do that regardless of their reaction. Kids are the ones who find this hardest to resist, but I’m amazed how many adults also refuse to recognize a puppy’s squirming as a legitimate plea for bodily autonomy. 

To add to the train wreck, these over-held pups are often the ones who grow into dogs who hate being handled! Which is sad in all kinds of ways, because it’s the folks who most want cuddlers who tend to turn their dogs into resisters.

Here’s what I tell kids (and, ahem, a few adults): Do you want to be your puppy’s favorite? Then, especially at first, let that puppy do the choosing! Rather than demanding the puppy’s attention, entice it instead. Get down on the floor, get a squeaky toy, roll around in a puppy-like way – and soon enough that puppy will start choosing you to play with. And then, miracle of miracles, when she’s tired she’ll wander over and choose your lap to sleep in. Now you’re just one step away from that pup happily asking to be picked up and cuddled. 

how to hold a puppy
The perfect puppy hold. Stable support underneath, but with a relaxed hold. Happy puppy feels secure but not trapped. For kids in particular, sitting on the ground is the best way to hold puppies without scaring them.

ALWAYS LOOK AT YOUR DOG’S BODY LANGUAGE

If you eliminate the surprise-swoop-squeeze from your routine, your pup will soon be calm about being picked up. To see if you’re at that point yet, look for the signals that pup is happy about this consent-based handling. Is she regularly approaching you? Turning her head toward you instead of away? Relaxing her body against yours? No longer struggling in your arms? Perfect. Now you can skip the warning cue, and the treat in your hand as you lift. 

But the rest? The no-surprise approach? The soothing voiceover? The un-intimidating crouch? The slow, supported lift? Don’t drop those. It’s habits like those that eventually make people describe you as the one who is “just magic with dogs!”

Nope. It’s not magic, just empathy. Use it, and enjoy the rewards.  

Download The Full June 2022 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0
  • Prepare For Boarding
  • Tragically Cute
  • Over The Hump
  • A Healthier House
  • Ask Before Petting...
  • Apple Cider Vinegar
  • Bloat Is Deadly
  • Help!  My Dog Eats Poop
  • Food And Sustainability
  • How To Pick Up A Puppy
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How to Prepare Your Dog for the Boarding Kennel

By
Stephanie Colman and Nancy Kerns
-
6
dog boarding kennel
When it comes to professional boarding kennels, accommodations come in all forms, from high-volume no-frills facilities with the ability to house upward of 150 dogs, to small businesses that offer luxurious hotel-style rooms for each dog (or several dogs from the same family), complete with human-sized beds, televisions, and private outdoor yards. Photo Credit: Fotocelia / Dreamstime.com

Once upon a time, all commercial boarding kennels closely resembled old-school animal shelters or puppy mills – you know, a row of narrow chain-link pens on concrete inside a loud building or under a barn roof. Fancy ones might contain a hard cot-style bed and dog doors that led to equally narrow individual outdoor runs. But, nearly always, the dogs had to endure the unspeakably stressful proximity of many other stressed dogs, and generally had to eliminate in their pens, which were hosed out while the dogs dodged for cover. Owners who had no other options (other than not traveling) comforted themselves with the idea that at least their dogs were securely contained and fed. 

The good news is that we have many more options today, including boarding “hotels” that may offer our dogs more comfort and enrichment than they enjoy in our own homes. The bad news is that not all of the employees (or even operators) of these businesses may be highly experienced with or knowledgeable about canine behavior and low-stress dog handling. Here’s what to look for when shopping for a dog-boarding facility that will keep your dog secure, comfortable, and unharmed.

RESEARCH AND TOUR YOUR DOG BOARDING FACILITY

It’s important to research and tour prospective boarding facilities well before you need one. Start by checking online reviews – keeping in mind that even the world’s best businesses suffer bad reviews from a few unhinged people with axes to grind. Check with the Better Business Bureau; generally (but not always), complaints lodged with the BBB can be taken more seriously than Yelp-style complaints. Ask dog professionals you respect (vets, trainers, groomers, etc.) if they have information or opinions about the boarding facility. 

Next, call the business to schedule a tour. Online photos and videos of the facility may help you select which businesses you want to check out, but nothing is a replacement for seeing (and hearing) the boarded dogs in real time, seeing how the staff members interact with the dogs, and having an opportunity to see how the facility looks and smells in the middle of a business day. 

Be forewarned: Many dog daycare and boarding facilities decline to conduct tours, citing the disturbance to their guest dogs and the possibility of a visitor bringing a pathogen into the facility. Understandably, this practice has gotten even more widespread since Covid. 

We appreciate the need to protect dogs and staff from infections, and that the appearance of unfamiliar people can cause some excitement among boarded or daycare dogs, but if we can’t see where our dogs are going to be spending their time, or see in action some of the people who will be handling them, we’re not leaving our dogs there. Disposable booties or a disinfectant shoe-bath can be used protect the dogs, and masks and hand-sanitizer can be employed to protect the staff.

You need to see where your dog will be housed and where he will be taken to eliminate and/or recreate. When viewing the accommodations, pay particular attention to:

  • The infrastructure that secures the facility. How tall are the fences in the outdoor yards and are they in good repair? Could a dog escape the facility if a single door or gate was improperly latched? (There should be at least two gates or doors between every place dogs are kept and an exit from the property.) Could an unauthorized person enter the facility and steal a dog? (There should be locked doors or staff present to ensure that no unauthorized persons can enter.)
  • The cleanliness of the facility. Pay attention to how the business looks and smells. Does it appear to be clean? Ask how is it sanitized, and how often?
  • The comfort of the area where your dog will be kept. Does the room seem to have an adequate air supply and climate control? Is the temperature comfortable? What separates the dogs’ individual enclosures; can the dogs see each other? (It’s highly stressful for dogs to both see and be seen by strange dogs while trapped in a small space.) What sort of bedding will your dog have? Is there an ample and spill-proof supply of water in each dog’s enclosure? 

If the enclosures have no direct access to an outdoor potty area, ask how frequently dogs are taken outside or if they’re expected to eliminate in the enclosure. If the latter, how often are the enclosures cleaned and where are the dogs during the process?

  • Check to see what, if any, “comforts” are provided (beds, blankets, toys, and chews). Do the enclosures resemble bare prison cells, or are the dogs given cushy beds?  
  • Discuss the dogs’ exercise options. Many kennels offer the option of recreational play groups. When considering this option, find out how guests are screened to determine their eligibility for play groups. As with daycare and cage-free facilities, play groups must be closely supervised at all times by well-trained staff. 

How large are the play groups? How are play pals selected? How much time do dogs spend engaged in off-leash play? What is the procedure for breaking up a dog fight and how are dogs handled immediately following, as well as for the duration of their stay? Are owners notified? If you don’t wish for your dog to participate in a play group, how will your dog be exercised?

  • Ask about the dogs’ meals. Does the kennel require that all guests eat a facility-provided kibble, or can owners bring their pet’s food from home? Will the kennel accommodate special diets such as home-cooked meals or raw food, and do they charge extra for this?
  • Ask about the kennel’s policy regarding sick or injured dogs. Every kennel should maintain excellent working relationships with local veterinarians and 24-hour care facilities. Find out how emergencies or potential emergencies are handled. When vet care is needed, are owners contacted ahead of time? For minor issues, how is the need for vet care decided and by whom?
  • What are the staff hours? Are there times when the dogs are not being monitored by a present and awake staff member? Not all facilities provide overnight monitoring for their canine guests.
  • Inquire about emergency plans. Fires, floods, earthquakes, tornadoes – emergencies can strike anywhere and at any time. Make sure the facility has detailed emergency plans in place. Can they safely evacuate guests in the event of a natural disaster? Where are the animals evacuated to? Are client records backed up off-site so that owners can be notified of an evacuation should the facility be compromised? 
  •  Last but not least: Ask about the training of the staff. In the kennel industry, a well-trained and competent staff is what ensures the health and safety of your pet. A love of dogs isn’t an adequate job qualification! Kindness, patience, compassion, and an ability to keep one’s own emotions in check are all important traits that must be combined with a solid understanding of dog behavior and a natural ability with dogs. This is critical in facilities that allow dog-to-dog interaction among guests.

Ask about the training that the employees receive and how much (if any) continuing education is required. Are they required to complete any sort of educational modules or classes about dog behavior, Fear Free handling, or pet first aid? Facility staff should be skilled in the nuances of dog body language; how to recognize, prevent, and interrupt bullying; and how to safely break up a dog fight. 

Note: Unless you board your dog at your usual, familiar trainer’s facility, we suggest that you not authorize training during boarding, unless you have taken the time to thoroughly screen the trainer and her methods. 

Red Flags That Say, 'Find Another Boarding Kennel!'

If, on a tour of the facility that you are considering for boarding your dog, you see any of the following, continue your search for another candidate for your business. There are more boarding options today than ever; even if you have to drive your dog some distance to a high-quality kennel, it’s worth the trouble. Your dog’s life is literally in the hands of these people! 

  • You aren’t allowed to see where your pet will be housed. Some facilities cite insurance reasons for keeping owners out of the kennel area, but at a minimum, you should be allowed to look through a door or window and see the area where your pet will stay. 
  • Dirty facility. Pet messes should be cleaned up promptly and adequate air circulation (necessary for the good health of your pet) should prevent an overall “doggy” smell. In general, the facility should appear neat and clean and should not have an unpleasant odor. 
  • Inattentive staff. Their top priority should be the dogs. It’s a bad sign if the one person watching a play group of dogs is suddenly the same person giving you a tour of the facility!
  • Excessive barking. It’s reasonable to expect bursts of barking when a human or dog travels through the kennel area. Continued barking likely points toward a bigger problem such as lack of exercise, lack of mental stimulation, inadequate potty opportunities, or an overall high stress/anxiety level.
  • Inappropriate handling, such as physical or shouted “corrections.” Experienced, well-educated dog handlers don’t need to hit or “alpha-roll” dogs, ever.

YOUR DOG’S INTERVIEW

dogs relaxing in cage free boarding
“Cage-free” boarding sounds great. But asking your dog to endure the constant presence of his peers – for an extended period of time and in a confined space – can be stressful. If considering a cage-free facility, be sure to spend time watching the way dogs interact and are managed. Findout if dogs receive any structured down time and how personality conflicts between dogs are handled. In this facility, some dogs wore muzzles for much of the day and staff members were armed with spray bottles – yikes!

Turnabout is fair play: If you’ve found a boarding business that you’d feel good leaving your dog with, the next step is to make sure the boarding business has an opportunity to meet your dog and learn as much about him as possible before taking responsibility for his well-being. 

Many boarding businesses have an evaluation process that must be completed in advance of your dog’s stay, to ensure he’s a good fit for the kind of care they provide – and they may charge a nominal fee for conducting this evaluation. Some require that your dog spend some minimum amount of time with the facility in a daycare arrangement prior to being boarded overnight – again, to make sure that your dog is ready and capable of spending time comfortably in the type of accommodations that the business offers.

Be ready to disclose whether your dog has ever had any incidents of aggression with other people or dogs. Don’t hide or gloss over this information. If your dog has a fight or bite history, his handlers need to know, so he’s not unwittingly set up to fail and put into a situation that’s beyond his ability to handle. 

PREPARING YOUR DOG FOR BOARDING

Find out, well in advance of your travel plans, what vaccinations are required by the boarding kennel. Most require that some vaccines be given two or more weeks in advance of the dog’s stay (because it takes about that long for the dog to develop immunity after vaccination). If your dog is a senior or has a chronic health condition, you may want to ask what, if any, vaccination exceptions exist. As thoughts regarding vaccination evolve, many kennels now accept titers or statements of vaccine exclusion from a veterinarian in lieu of following a strict vaccination protocol. 

Be prepared to provide emergency contact numbers (including your veterinarian’s contact information) – and make sure the people you list are ready, willing, and able to respond quickly if the facility calls regarding an emergency concerning your dog. 

It’s helpful if the boarding facility offers daycare, too, so your dog can spend a day or two at the facility before spending nights there, too. If the business does not offer daycare, book an overnight stay for your dog when you are in town, so you’re available to pick up your dog if it turns out he is overly stressed. 

Avoid dietary changes in the days prior to boarding. The initial stress of boarding often leads to digestive upset; don’t do anything that might add to this!

If possible, try to avoid contact with other dogs for seven to 10 days prior to boarding. This helps prevent the possibility of exposure to disease that could then be introduced into the kennel environment.

Most daycare and boarding facilities remove clients’ collar, and leave the dogs either naked or in breakaway collars (to prevent entanglement during group play). For this reason, we recommend that your dog is implanted with a microchip ID (registered with your current phone number), or tattooed with information that can quickly lead a rescuer to you, should any disaster lead to your dog’s escape.

GO WITH YOUR GUT

Once you’ve done your homework and thoroughly checked out your list of potential facilities, often the best way to make a selection is to go with your gut instinct. If deciding between two different facilities that seem equal in terms of experience and standards of care, ask yourself if one just simply feels better? If for any reason you feel uncomfortable with a facility, trust yourself and your ability to know what’s best for your dog. 

Drug Ads for Veterinary Products

By
Nancy Kerns
-
15
woman watching tv with dog
© Monika Wisniewska | Dreamstime.com

Something I noticed while on the elliptical machine at the gym (while trying to notice anything but my heart and respiration rate): There are a lot of ads for veterinary drugs on TV!

My husband and I are some of those weirdoes who only stream movies; we don’t watch broadcast TV, so I haven’t noticed this before, but holy smokes! It seems like there are as many ads for dog drugs as there are ads for drugs for humans – but with one important distinction: The ads for the veterinary medications don’t seem to have to include the fast-talking, small-print “side effects” additions about all the potential adverse effects that the drugs might cause. Why is that? I went looking for more information on the U.S. Food & Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) website, and here’s what I found:

It turns out that the drug companies are required to disclose risk information in their promotional materials – at least, the promotional materials that are presented to veterinarians. Advertising materials that are directed to pet owners – known as direct-to-consumer (DTC) advertisements – are judged by a slightly different standard.

The FDA Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) oversees the promotion and advertising of approved prescription drug products under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, and related regulations. Animal drug companies must ensure their prescription drug information provided to veterinarians and consumers is truthful, balanced, and not misleading. But marketing materials that are advertised in veterinary trade publications or distributed directly to veterinarians (or their hospitals) must be balanced with both benefit and risk information. And the product inserts must contain warnings, precautions, and contraindications for the product’s use.

In contrast, the main criterion for DTC advertisements for prescription drugs is that the promotional message is truthful and does not mislead consumers into thinking the drug is safer or more effective than has been demonstrated. According to the FDA CVM website: “DTC advertisements are designed to prompt consumers to request more information from their veterinarians about the drug.  These advertisements can provide helpful information to consumers, increase awareness of certain conditions or diseases, and may even influence a consumer to seek veterinary help for their animal; however, the content of the advertisement must be truthful, balanced, clearly communicated, and not misleading.”

Interestingly, ads for over-the-counter (OTC) drugs are not regulated by the FDA, but by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC)! The rules for OTC drugs are far less detailed. Essentially, the only real rules are that claims in advertisements must be truthful, cannot be deceptive or unfair, and must be evidence-based.

Also interesting: I couldn’t find any information about the regulations for advertising topical pesticides for dogs (such as “spot on” flea and tick pesticides). The products themselves are regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency, but I couldn’t find advertising regulations anywhere. If I had to guess, I would bet that the ads for these products are governed by the FTC, too.

Personally, I’d love to see the ads for all veterinary products, whether prescription or OTC, pesticide or medication, to have to list the potential side effects, just like the human drug ads. I think this would demystify the products, and help make it clear that anything you give to or put on your dog might have a deleterious effect.

What do you think?

Happy Birthday Karen Pryor

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
7
karen pryor with dog
Karen Pryor is the author of many science-based behavior and training books.

I read the headline with disbelief – “Karen Pryor turns 90 this week!” How can that be possible? It seems like it was just yesterday when I read Don’t Shoot the Dog and began my journey to the right way to train and live with dogs (and all my other animal companions). It was in fact the early 1990s when I first read it; it was originally published in 1984 and is still required reading for all my academy students. (If you haven’t read it… do!)

In addition to Don’t Shoot the Dog, Karen Pryor is the author of many other outstanding books on science-based behavior and training, including Lads Before the Wind, a book about her experiences as a marine mammal trainer. She is also the founder of Clicker Expo, the Karen Pryor Clicker Company, and the Karen Pryor Clicker Academy.

Her most visible legacy is her contribution to the world of dog training. Countless training and behavior professionals, including yours truly, owe a huge debt of gratitude to Karen for awakening us to the science behind the training, and helping us understand that there are far better ways to train than inflicting punishment with choke, prong, and shock collars.

Ironically, Don’t Shoot the Dog was never intended to be a dog-training book; it was written as a self-help book for humans and human behavior. It was a stroke of pure luck that her publishers talked her into bestowing the title that serendipitously caught the attention of the dog-training world. The rest is history.

Educated dog trainers and behavior consultants around the world today truly deserve the title “professional” because Karen introduced our profession to the science of behavior and learning and whetted our appetites to learn more about how our dogs think and learn. And it’s not just dogs. Companion cats, horses, fish, rabbits, mice, birds… all the non-human animals who share our homes and our hearts can thank her for vastly improving the quality of their lives. (To learn more about Karen, read this interview from WDJ 10 years ago.)

An article posted last week on the Karen Pryor Clicker Training website gave an update about Karen, for the occasion of her 90th birthday. I was sad to learn that Karen is dealing with some dementia as she enters her ninth decade on this earth, but comforted to read that she is living in a cottage in a lovely country setting in the Sierra Mountains with one of her sons’ family, enjoying the family dogs, cats, chickens, garden, and the infinite beauty of the natural world around her.

Happy birthday, Karen, and thank you for all you’ve done for all of us. May you enjoy your remaining years on this planet. Rest assured that your legacy will live far beyond your all-too-brief time on this world.

Editorial Independence

By
Nancy Kerns
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nancy kerns with border collie
First "Editor's photo" : NK and her Border Collie Rupert shortly after being hired to edit Whole Dog Journal in 1998.

I’m going to expand here on an exchange that was sparked in the comments section of the online version of a WDJ article that was posted recently. The article described each of the most effective pesticides and oral medications for dogs that either repel or kill fleas and ticks. One reader wanted to know whether we receive any compensation from pharmaceutical companies in exchange for consideration of their products.

I replied, a bit defensively (due to the use of the word “kickbacks”), that, no, we don’t receive anything in exchange for editorial consideration. The reader wrote back to clarify that he was just trying to determine whether there was any sort of financial consideration or relationship between our publisher or editorial department and the companies whose products we write about. I appreciated his clarification. My short answer is “No!” – and if you’ll forgive me, here’s a longer answer:

Neither the publisher nor I accept any sort of incentives to write about any company or its products.

Very recently, the folks at our publishing headquarters in Connecticut made the decision to offer affiliate links to products that appear in our “Approved Foods” lists or product reviews, as a way to both make it easier for our readers to find and purchase those products if they wish, and to help defray the cost of building and maintaining our new searchable database of approved foods. “Network ads,” which are generated by something to do with Google, may also appear on this website. I’m not sure there are any publishers still in business who are not taking these tacks today, in order to help offset postal and print-industry cost increases. But as WDJ’s editor, working from my home in California, I have no involvement with any of that. Those efforts are siloed far from me.

WDJ’s publisher was founded more than 40 years ago with first one, than an increasing number, of consumer-supported periodicals that eschewed advertising. Founded on the Consumer Reports model, the idea behind each publication was to give readers independent reviews of products and services and technical information from experts in the field, free of any advertising considerations whatsoever. The publisher felt that readers would find enough value in publications that “tell it like it is” – not hedging or holding back in reviews out of concern of losing a chunk of advertising income – that they would gladly pay subscription fees for those publications on an ongoing basis.

When I was hired to edit the inaugural issue of Whole Dog Journal more than 25 years ago, I couldn’t be more excited. I had worked part-time for a predecessor, Whole Horse Journal, which had been purchased by Belvoir from a friend. I was aware of Belvoir’s consumer-oriented approach and was thrilled for an opportunity to shine a light on products and practices that are demonstrably in the best interests of dogs – as opposed to anyone with a dog-related business who will give us advertising money. There can be no more fulfilling job for a journalist than to be allowed to research and write articles without ever having to “pull a punch” out of concern that one of our advertisers might withdraw their support and threaten our ability to continue publication. None of that has changed. I still feel honored to enjoy complete editorial independence from the constraints of influence of advertisers.

Over the years, in order to learn more about the production of dog food, I’ve asked various dog food makers whether I could come see their manufacturing facilities and talk to their formulators. In this way, I’ve been able to tour food production plants operated by WellPet, Hill’s, Diamond, The Honest Kitchen, Champion, Breeder’s Choice, Lotus, and a few more (including some that are no longer in business or that were purchased by other companies, including Iams/Eukanuba and Natura). Some of those companies offered to fly me to their manufacturing cities, pay for my hotel, and more. But Belvoir would never allow such a thing; the most I could (or would) accept on these trips is a meal or two.

Sometimes, pet product manufacturers send products to me, unsolicited and unannounced (ask me sometime about the box of frozen dog food that was sent to me lacking ANY labels that identified it as needing refrigeration or even being food –the one that sat in a pile of other mail and unsolicited stuff for over a month, until I noticed the box was bulging in a way I hadn’t noticed previously! OMG!). If the product is one that I find I really like and think would be a useful product for other dog owners, it might find its way into a review or article at some point. If I find the product to be without value or use, I tend to not respond to the sender. Either way, all products eventually get donated to my local shelter or given to friends or family who might be able to use them.

I’ve never received products from any of the big pharmaceutical companies – and come to think of it, I don’t receive even unsolicited literature from them. I suspect they don’t think they need our support or interest.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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