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Extraordinary Canines: The Dogs of Search and Rescue

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Search and rescue dogs play a vital role in first response after a disaster or major incident.
There are no breed restrictions for search and rescue dogs, but the individual must be physically and temperamentally suited to the work. Credit: Ashley Cooper | Getty Images

She was the last living search and rescue dog who worked to find survivors at the Twin Towers after the September 11 attacks. At 16 years old and suffering from kidney failure, Bretagne entered a Texas animal hospital on June 6, 2016 to be euthanized; as she and her caretaker took the slow walk into the hospital, fire department first responders lined the sidewalk and saluted. After she died, a search and rescue team carried her out in a flag-draped coffin. As she passed, the line of firefighters took up their salute once again, wearing black mourning bands across their badges.

This beautiful Golden Retriever came from a long line of extraordinary dogs whose calling is to find humans who are lost, injured, or missing. These skilled, highly trained search and rescue dogs can often mean the difference between life and death, especially during mass casualty events, natural disasters, and when searching for missing persons.

History of Search and Rescue Dogs

It all started in the 17th century, when the St. Augustine monks at a monastery on Switzerland’s Great St. Bernard Pass acquired special dogs—now known as St. Bernards—to guard the abbey. The monks often needed to rescue travelers in the Alps and the dogs soon began to accompany them: first as foul-weather pathfinders and later as guides to locate missing persons.

During World War I, search dogs located injured soldiers on the battlefield; in World War II, dogs found victims buried in bombed-out buildings; we also saw search dogs in the Korean War, Vietnam, and modern conflicts. Today’s search and rescue dogs are part of teams that operate in counties and municipalities in every state. Sometimes, the county sheriff’s departments direct search and rescue operations; other times, these services are coordinated by agencies like the Coast Guard, state departments of emergency management, fire and rescue, or non-profit organizations.

Nationally, the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) oversees search dog teams specializing in detecting either survivors or deceased persons. As of 2023, FEMA had 280 teams focused on searching for survivors, and 80 teams that seek out human remains.

Search and rescue dogs can do these remarkable things because of one specific canine characteristic: scent. A dog’s sense of smell—as much as 100,000 times more powerful than ours—is thanks to a specialized olfactory organ inside their nasal cavity known as the Jacobsen’s organ. The nerves from this organ connect directly to the brain and can identify a range of odors that are completely undetectable to humans.

Categories of Search and Rescue Dogs

Search and rescue (SAR) dogs are generally categorized as either air-scenting or trailing. Air-scenting dogs follow airborne human scents until they locate the source of the smell. Once they lock onto the scent, they “indicate” with a bark or other physical cue; if their handler is too far away to hear or see them, they will return to the person and guide them to where they located the scent. Even in less-than-optimal conditions, these dogs can detect a scent source as far away as a quarter-mile.  Cadaver dogs are specialized air-scenting dogs trained to detect the scent of deceased persons, and can locate bodies—whether above ground or buried—or even skeletal remains.  These dogs can actually detect the difference between human and animal ash and can alert over century-old graves.

Trailing dogs follow the scent-trail of a specific person after being given an article of that person’s clothing or other personal item and will hunt for a trail that matches that scent. Some skilled trailing dogs can even follow a scent where the person has never touched the ground.

What Breeds Are Best for Search and Rescue?

Almost any breed or mix can be trained for SAR as long as the dog possesses the right qualities. Temperamentally, these dogs have strong prey, pack, and play drives and are highly intelligent. They are willing to learn, very well socialized with humans and other animals, and must be able to tolerate stressful situations, loud noises, and large crowds of people or other animals.

Physically, a SAR dog needs to be healthy, resilient, strong, and agile. One of the most important physical qualities of a SAR dog is balanced front- and rear-leg angulation (the angles formed by the meeting of bones at the hip and shoulder joint); equally crucial is a strong rear assembly (the hip, thigh, and rear limb of the dog), which is vital for jumping, climbing, and forward propulsion. These sorts of physical attributes are key to a dog’s ability to handle the physical stress of days-long deployments in perilous, unstable urban situations or extreme backcountry environments.

While a variety of breeds serve as SAR dogs, many are working breeds such as the Labrador Retriever, Golden Retriever, German Shepherd Dog, Border Collie, and Belgian Malinois.

Training a Search and Rescue Dog

Search and rescue dogs go through rigorous training that can last up to two years, often starting as young as 8 months old. Much of the time, training is done through the various search and rescue organizations. Puppies are introduced to tasks in a playful, relaxed manner; then as the dog matures, training becomes more demanding—between 20 and 50 hours a month—and includes everything from scent work to tracking to rubble search. Over the course of two years, the cost of training a single SAR dog can range upwards of $20,000.

SAR training is very different than your family dog’s training. One example is obedience: while most SAR organizations require that the dog pass an obedience test that meets or exceeds the AKC’s Canine Good Citizen test, beyond that, a SAR dog is taught what’s called “intelligent disobedience.” For instance, when a SAR dog indicates to the handler that they found something, but the handler dismisses it because of the environment or situation, the dog must disobey and persist in its alert until the handler investigates what the dog has found.

SAR handlers are also highly trained. Principles include land navigation, wilderness survival, radio communication, map reading, and the fundamentals of scent, often spotlighting the SAR team’s focus area such as avalanche rescue, cadaver detection, water search, or human tracking.

After initial training, the team undergoes stringent certification processes that ensure the dog and handler are equipped for search and rescue work.  Most SAR organizations require periodic recertification that involves testing the team in specific search and rescue situations. FEMA, for instance, requires that their teams recertify every three years.

Dangers Faced by Search Dogs

Search and rescue dogs confront a myriad of hazards in their work. These can include everything from snake bites and wildlife encounters to dangerous waterways and extreme weather. Urban perils like falls, entrapment, heavy equipment, and traffic also present risks to SAR dogs.

People have long wondered if these dogs, like some of their handlers, suffer from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD) as a result of their experiences in the field.  Unfortunately, while it’s agreed that these highly stressful situations have the potential to cause anxiety in SAR dogs, the research is extremely limited and there’s no evidence that points to these dogs experiencing actual PTSD.

What we can say is that there’s clear evidence of acute stress in some search and rescue dogs during deployments. Also, while some SAR dogs show behavioral difficulties after deployment, there’s nothing pointing to any connection between the issues and deployment. However, more research is needed to assess behavioral consequences of disaster deployment in SAR dogs.

Susannah Charleson, certified search and rescue dog handler and author of Scent of the Missing, says that search and rescue dogs operate “in the thin air between the possibility of life and the probability of death.” These extraordinary canines illustrate why we consider dogs to be our best friends, working with and for us at human-generated catastrophes like explosions, building collapses, and mass casualty events, or those arising from the forces of nature such as floods, hurricanes, tornadoes, and fires.

How to Calm a Dog Down

Knowing how to calm a dog down is necessary both indoors and outdoors.
The best way to calm dog anxiety naturally is with increased exercise. Credit: Edwin Tan | Getty Images

Many dog owners know the frustration of dealing with a hyperactive or anxious dog. Whether your dog is constantly bouncing off the walls, excessively barking, or displaying signs of anxiety, understanding the underlying causes of hyperactivity and anxiety, and taking a proactive approach to their care, can help improve their overall wellbeing and help you calm down a dog.

Whether your dog’s excitement is due to barking at squirrels, a new person in the house or anything that causes the dog to become anxious, having an arsenal of cues that you can ask the dog to do to distract him is key. But it takes time.

Without training, the only way to instantly calm your dog down is to remove him from the stimulus. If your dog is on the couch, looking out the window and barking at a pesky squirrel, remove the dog from the stimulus. If you’re walking the dog and he sees another dog and becomes excited, turn and walk away in the opposite direction.

If your dog goes crazy and you’re home—and your dog is properly crate-trained—put your dog in his crate. You can cover the crate, if needed, as this creates even more of a calming atmosphere. You can even close the door to the room, if need be, to muffle noise a bit.

If the dog isn’t crate-trained, you still need to remove him from the trigger, so pick him up if he’s little or grab a leash and go to another room together, away from the problem, may help him refocus on you. Note: Do not grab the dog’s collar and pull him away from the problem! That will only reinforce that something’s wrong.

If you don’t have a crate, depending on your dog, he may relax in a quiet room even after you leave, especially if it’s a room he is familiar with. Locking him in the bathroom alone will probably backfire on you, because chances are he’s never in that room and there is rarely a comfy spot for him to relax.

If the problem is noise outside, playing music or the TV can help. You don’t need to blast the sound. You’re just giving the dog a refocus.

If the problem is a new person, even a spot blocked by a baby gate may be enough to break the intensity of the excitement, provided he is used to the baby gate block.

If your dog knows the basics of sit, down, turnaround, and back, you have an array of cues (with rewards!) that you can do to refocus your dog. Use these exercises to take your dog’s mind off what’s bothering him. But you must have trained the cue and rewarded the response before you need it, so the cue is solid.

What Causes a Hyper Dog?

Hyperactivity in dogs typically stems from excess energy, lack of training or structure, or boredom. Some breeds are naturally very high-energy and require more physical exercise than others. Additionally, younger dogs typically have more energy than their older counterparts. Without adequate exercise or mental stimulation, these dogs can become restless.

Dogs that have not been properly trained and socialized or lack clear boundaries and routines may also act out in hyperactive ways. Boredom is common for dogs and, when dogs do not receive enough physical or mental stimulation, they often turn to hyperactive behaviors like jumping, barking, pacing, whining, or destructive behaviors like chewing.

Anxiety in dogs can occur for various reasons and is typically expressed by excessive panting, pacing, drooling, whining, hiding, or destructive behaviors. Common causes of anxiety include separation anxiety, fear of loud noises, changes in environment or routine, and traumatic experiences.

How to Calm a Dog Naturally

The way to calm dog naturally is to manage the dog with regular physical exercise. Depending on your dog’s breed, age, and health, taking them on daily walks, runs, play sessions, or training sessions can help burn off excess energy. Exercise releases endorphins, which can improve mood and reduce anxiety. Aim for at least 30 to 60 minutes of physical activity every day. Fetch, tug-of-war, and agility exercises are also great options.

Mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise. Engage in activities that stimulate both your dog’s body and mind, such as puzzle toys, scent games, hide-and-seek, or learning new tricks.

Establishing a Routine Can Help Calm a Dog

Dogs thrive on routine, and a lack of structure can contribute to anxiety. Having a consistent daily schedule for feeding, walks, playtime, and rest can help your dog feel more secure and reduce behavioral issues.

Calming Tools for Dogs

Various products are available to help calm anxious or hyperactive dogs. These products include calming diffusers and collars that use pheromone or scent technology to convey a calming effect on your pet; ThunderShirts, which can help during fireworks or thunderstorms by applying gentle, constant pressure on your dog’s body to calm them; and calming supplements, which can be added to your dog’s diet. Ingredients such as L-theanine, L-tryptophan, magnesium, and some probiotic strains have been shown to promote a reduction in anxiety-related behaviors.

If your dog’s anxiety or hyperactivity is severe, persistent, or seems to be getting worse, a visit with your veterinarian is in order. In some cases, medication may be recommended to help manage severe anxiety and improve your dog’s quality of life.

Hyperactivity and anxiety in dogs are both common issues that many pet owners face, but with patience, consistency, and the right approach, you can help your dog feel more relaxed and secure.

Providing ample exercise, mental stimulation, and a structured environment are key steps in reducing hyperactivity and anxiety.

Additionally, using calming products and seeking professional guidance from your veterinarian or a behaviorist can help provide further support. By addressing your dog’s needs, you can help them live a calmer, happier life.

Pet-Friendly Ice Melt

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Ice melt is an unexpected poison hazards for pets in winter. Pet friendly ice melt can alleviate this risk.
Beware of sidewalks that may have been treated with traditional ice melt or rock salt. Products that are specifically “pet-friendly” are safer choices for your dog. Credit: Ekaterina Goncharova | Getty Images

While winter can be a wonderland for both humans and our dogs, with picturesque snow-covered walks and hikes, it can also be a slippery slope. Literally. While we enjoy the season, it’s important to be mindful of the dangers lurking beneath the snow. Ice is bad for dogs because they can slip just as we do, but the solution isn’t using traditional ice melt, rock salt, or ice salt. These common household items can injure your dog’s paws and can be toxic if ingested.

Pet-Safe Alternatives to Ice Melt

Pet-friendly ice melt options do work. They’re readily available and won’t harm your dog. Consider these options:

  • Sand or kitty litter are natural materials that provide traction without the use of harmful chemicals. The downside: They don’t melt ice and are messy.
  • Sugar beet- or beet juice-based products are less toxic to pets and can be effective at melting ice. The downside? Choose a product specifically labeled pet-safe, as some beet-based products may still contain harmful ingredients.
  • Potassium chloride-based products are generally less harmful to pets than traditional rock salt, so potassium chloride-based ice melt is a good option for pet owners. The downside? They can still irritate paws and may be less effective at melting ice in very cold temperatures.

5 Dog-Friendly Ice Melts

While you can’t control what your town or neighbors use to treat icy roads and walkways, you can control what you put down on your driveway, steps, and walks. These five safe ice melt alternatives, are suggested by  Beth Turner, DVM, a Colorado-based veterinarian:

  • Safe Paw: Made with a dual-effect compound that is said to work quickly to melt ice and prevent re-icing.
  • Just For Pets A chloride-free formula, listed as safe for pets and easy to use.
  • Green Gobbler: A pet-safe ice melt product that the manufacturer designed to work well in spreaders.
  • Natural Rapport: The manufacturer claims, its ice melt is pet-friendly thanks to a proprietary organic formula to reduce corrosion and is safer for pets, children, and the environment.
  • Safe-T-Pet: Safe-T-Pet is a salt-free ice melt developed with veterinarians to be safer for dogs, people, plants, and surfaces than plain salt, according to the company.

These products tend to be more expensive than traditional ice melt, or rock salt, but you should be aware of the risks associated with these choices.

Traditional Ice Melt

While you can use the cheaper alternatives, it’s wise to keep your pets away from those areas. The risks introduced by ice melt fall into two categories. According to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC), licking small amounts of ice melt off their paws or treated ground is unlikely to cause serious problems, but it does introduce a variety of health risks. The second, more serious concern is when a dog ingests a large amount of ice melt directly from the container, which could be fatal.

University of Illinois Veterinary Medicine South Clinic reports that dog owners need to look out for exposure to ice-melting products and react quickly if their dogs accidentally consume these products by eating treated snow or licking the products off the pads of their feet.

“Ice-melting products are usually made up of different kinds of salts, containing magnesium, potassium, calcium or sodium,” writes Dr. Gene Pavlovsky, director of the clinic. “Ingestion can cause vomiting and diarrhea, sometimes severe enough to cause dehydration or even tremors and seizures, depending on the amount ingested and size of the pet.”

Why Ice Melt Is Harmful to Dogs?

As mentioned, popular ice-melt products usually contain chemicals, which can cause a variety of health problems if ingested, including:

  • Gastrointestinal upset, which can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite.
  • Dehydration, due to excessive salt intake, can be serious if left untreated.
  • Kidney failure, due to ingesting large amounts of ice melt.
  • Paw irritation, caused by direct contact with ice melt can irritate your dog’s paw pads, causing pain and possible infection.

Is Ice and Salt Bad for Dogs?

The American Veterinary Medical Foundation recommends that, when you’re out with your dog, you check her paws frequently for signs of cold-weather injury or damage, such as cracked or bleeding paw pads.

During a walk, a sudden limp may be due to an injury or could be due to ice accumulation between his/her toes. You may be able to reduce the chance of ice-ball accumulation by clipping the hair between your dog’s toes.

During icy conditions, reduce the amount of time your dog spends outdoors, especially on days with heavy snowfall or freezing rain. After walks, use a damp cloth or baby wipe to remove any ice-melt residue from your dog’s paws, paying attention to the pads and in between the toes.

The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine recommends examining your dog’s paws. One approach to treat cracked or irritated paws is paw balm, which moisturizes and softens dry, cracked, or damaged pads. However, is not designed to treat medical conditions or injuries, and it won’t protect your dog’s paws from extreme heat or cold. For these situations, dog boots are a better option. The boots should have good traction and must fit almost perfectly, so they are not too tight or too loose.

Persuading your dog to wear paw booties is no simple task. Applying paw wax is an alternative that can provide a protective barrier between your dog’s paws and the icy ground. Paw wax can help naturally condition your dog’s paws and help heal cracked and chapped paw pads and is an especially good option for dogs who live in extreme climates or spend a lot of time outside.

If you have any concerns about your dog’s health or exposure to ice melt or ice itself, consult your veterinarian.

What is Dog Dancing? An Intro To Freestyle Heelwork To Music

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Dog dancing is an activity that can be a lot of fun for both a dog and owner.
Dog dancing, which includes Musical Freestyle and Heelwork to Music, focuses on the connection between dog and handler. Credit: Courtesy of Jan Meyer

If you like teaching your dog tricks, you might like dog dancing. Dog dancing is all about the connection and bond between a handler and their dog. Dog and handler teams perform routines of tricks and skills linked together to music. Routines can tell a story, can be lyrical, and have fun themes. Dogs and handlers often dress up for their performances and can have fun props to interact with as well.

There are two different types of dog dancing in the United States The first is Musical Freestyle. “Musical Freestyle is anything goes,” says Jan Meyer, a dog dance instructor based in Colorado. “You can do any fun things you want with your dog. They can jump, they can go through your legs, you can come up with anything and it’s fine.”

The other type of dog dancing is heelwork to music, which has stricter rules. “Heelwork to Music, the dog has to stay within two feet of you, front, sides, and back,” says Meyer. “They can’t go through your legs, they can’t jump, so you can’t do weaves, figure eights, you can’t have them go to the other side of the ring. So it’s really like a partnership kind of dance.”

Whether you decide to try out Musical Freestyle, Heelwork to Music, or both, dog dancing is an incredibly beginner-friendly sport, but it takes some knowledge to get started.

How to Get Your Dog Started in Dog Dancing

Currently, dog dancing is more popular in Europe than in the United States, but there are still a number of ways to get involved. Jess Anderson, a dog dance competitor and instructor located in Colorado, suggests looking for a local club. She also encourages dog dance enthusiasts to start their own club if none exist in their area.

“Unfortunately in the U.S., I think that Musical Freestyle is very limited to certain specific geographical locations,” says Gin Brophy, a dog dance instructor and competitor located in Michigan. “I wouldn’t be surprised if a lot of areas simply don’t have any options for classes or competitions or even private instruction in the sport. If you’re lucky enough to have a class in your area, that would certainly be a good starting point to start learning about the sport and build some connections.”

Brophy also recommends looking into the World Canine Freestyle Organization (WCFO), which is one of few if not the only truly active dog dance groups in the country. Their website is currently getting overhauled but is normally a good resource to look into to find out if there’s a club in your area.

If there’s no club near you or if you’re brand new to the sport, there are other options for trying out dog dancing. Some instructors offer virtual training options, and Anderson also recommends joining the Dog Dance USA Facebook group. “It’s a central hub spearheaded by a small group who are determined to bring Dog Dance to the U.S. more and more,” she says.

Brophy teaches virtually through her website, everydaywonderdog.com, and is happy to train interested dog and human teams. She also recommends Michele Pouliot’s online freestyle course as an intro to the sport.

How to Find and Enter Dog Dancing Events

Dog dancing often includes costumes to emphasize the routine.
Dog dancing competitions often include costumes—for both dog and handler—designed to emphasize the choreographed routine. Credit: Courtesy of Virginia Brophy

If you’ve taught your dog some skills, taken an in-person class, or studied up virtually, competition is the next natural step for dog dancing. Though there are more groups that offer dog dance titling in Europe, WCFO is the main way to title your dogs in Heelwork to Music and Musical Freestyle in the United States, says Anderson. “The live competitions are far and few between in the U.S., but you can enter videos virtually.”

Local dog dancing clubs, like Boogie Paws run by Jan Meyer, offer virtual trials as well. The beauty of virtual competitions is that you can enter them regardless of where you live. WCFO also offers virtual monthly video events, where competitors can submit videos to be scored for legs towards their titles.

At the time of writing, the WCFO website was undergoing a website overhaul, but Anderson and Meyer say that live and virtual competitions are usually posted there on the calendar tab. For now, it’s best to join a Facebook group or get in contact with a local trainer or club for more info on local competitions.

Because dog dancing trials tend to lean more virtual than in-person, this is a great sport for reactive or nervous dogs. Meyer says that during in-person events, crate space is quite close to the ring and the live trial environment can be challenging for some dogs. With virtual competitions, any dog can try out the sport.

How to Earn Dog Dancing and Freestyle Heelwork Titles

Through WCFO, you can earn titles for Beginner, Novice, Intermediate, Advanced and Perfect Dance Partner (PDP) for both Heelwork to Music and Musical Freestyle. To earn titles, teams have to perform a routine based on a time limit (determined by level). Teams are scored artistically and technically, similar to gymnastics or ice-skating routines.

For the Beginner level, teams need two qualifying scores of 7.3 or above to earn their title. Novice, Intermediate, and Advanced require three qualifying legs with scores of 7.3 and above. Lastly, Perfect Dance Partner requires 5 qualifying legs of 9.5 or above.

According to Meyer, at the Beginner level for Musical Freestyle, judges are mainly looking for a connection with your dog. The dog might do simple turns and spins, figure eights, and heelwork. In Novice, judges look for fewer hand signals and a little bit more polish. In Intermediate, judges want behind work, where the dog does skills from behind you. In Advanced, judges want to see distance work. Once you get to PDP, judges look for zero hand signals and complete connection and flow with your dog.

There are also special divisions in WCFO dog dancing, like Sassy Seniors (which has age limits), and Handi Dandi (for dogs or handlers with handicaps). These different classes aim to make dog dancing more inclusive for different demographics.

Should I Try Dog Dancing with My Dog?

“One of the reasons I love dog dance so much is because truly any dog can do it,” says Anderson. Anderson has done dog dancing with her dog, Jack, and credits the sport with building their relationship and Jack’s confidence. Anderson has also done dog dancing with foster dogs and her older, deaf dog, and says that the sport is truly for any breed, age, or personality.

A common misconception about dog dancing is that you need to know how to dance to do it. Meyer says that handlers don’t need to know how to dance at all to get involved in the sport. She says if your dog can walk next to you, they can learn to dance.

“It’s really fun and relaxed, and a lot lower pressure than some other sports,” says Brophy. She says that dog dancing is a great sport to show off the handler’s creative sides through routine choice, music, and costumes, and that the community makes it a very beginner-friendly sport. Because dog dancing isn’t that big in the United States, Brophy says that people tend to be welcoming and encouraging because they want to see the sport grow and become more accessible.

“To anyone who might be nervous or think their routine or their dog won’t be ‘good enough’, just remember that dog dancing is art, and art is subjective, so there’s no possible way to do it wrong,” Brophy says. “Teach your dog a few tricks, put on some music, and you’re already doing it!”

Is Rawhide Bad for Your Dog?

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Is rawhide bad for dogs? It can be
If you decide to give your dog rawhide, it is important to pick properly sized chews that have not been chemically treated. Credit: SamuelBrownNG | Getty Images

Dogs love to chew and rawhide chews have long been best-sellers. Made from the skin of cattle, pigs, deer, and other animals, they’re called “raw” because they haven’t been tanned for use as leather. Rawhide chews keep dogs entertained for hours and are inexpensive, convenient treats. But are they safe?

Rawhide chews are potentially dangerous because they can be a choking hazard or cause gastrointestinal obstructions. Some rawhide chews are hard enough to break or damage teeth.

Rawhides are not considered “food” by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and are therefore unregulated. They are exempt from AAFCO registration and labeling requirements and their labels are not required to include a guaranteed nutritional analysis.

According to Today’s Veterinary Practice (January 2024), many rawhide chews are treated with degreasers, detergents, sodium bicarbonate, hydrogen peroxide, lime, or other chemicals to remove hair or fat, kill pathogens, and improve appearance. Cheaper ingredients, scrap rawhide, and artificial colors and flavors are often added and additives, such as glues to hold shape, may be used. Ingesting rawhide exposes dogs to these processing chemicals and other questionable ingredients.

Benefits of Rawhide for Dogs

At the same time, rawhide treats have been shown to:

How to Avoid Problems with Rawhide

In 2023, Veterinary dentist John R. Lewis, VMD, reported in the Journal of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association that the ideal chew item for dogs should be:

  • Sufficiently interesting to the animal to encourage chewing
  • Long-lasting or safe to give frequently
  • Of high nutritional quality with minimal calories above the current diet
  • Proven to decrease plaque and calculus
  • Not excessively hard in order to avoid harm to the teeth and jaws
  • Has minimal risk of toxicity, choking, and GI obstruction

Rawhide easily satisfies the first two criteria, and although it is not known for high nutritional quality, rawhide contains some protein. The main risks associated with rawhide chews are that, unless sourced and manufactured to avoid these problems, they can contain traces of toxic chemicals and be hard enough to damage teeth or harm the gastrointestinal tract.

Best Rawhide Choices

Reflecting today’s interest in natural diets, improved-quality rawhide chews are growing in popularity. Companies that minimally process hides from grass-fed (highest quality) animals include:

White Oak Pastures Grass-Fed & Pastured Pet Chews.

Fresh Farms Grass-Fed Rawhide Chews

Real Hide. Grass-Fed Rawhide Chews

Buffalo Range Grass-Fed Bison Chews

Hotspot Pets.Grass-Fed Rawhide Treats

CowDog Grass-Fed Brazilian Rawhide Chews

These and similar brands produce rawhide chews of different shapes and sizes. It’s important to choose a size appropriate for your dog and consider your dog’s approach to food and treats. Don’t feed small treats to large dogs who might swallow them whole, be careful about giving rawhide to dogs who chew aggressively and gulp their treats, and look for chews that have not been chemically treated.

Rawhide Alternatives

For those who would rather not deal with rawhide at all, pet supply stores offer dozens of alternative treats that can keep your pup busy.

Hooves and Antlers for Dogs

Most dogs love to chew on whole or split antlers from deer or elk, and these are widely available. So are hooves from beef cattle, some of which are filled with peanut butter or other flavorings. Hooves and antlers are very hard, and while many dogs do well with them, some have broken teeth or damaged their gums. Redbarn Dog Chews come with instructions to monitor dogs while they chew, remove any splinters that break off, and always choose a chew size larger than your dog’s mouth. If feeding a filled hoof, check its ingredients, which may be high in sugar, carbohydrates, and calories, and adjust your dog’s diet accordingly.

Chew Sticks

Dogs love to chew on wood,, but doing so can cause injuries. Petstages Dogwood Chew Sticks look like small tree limbs, but they are non-splintering chew toys made of natural wood fiber and synthetic materials that mimic wood’s texture and taste. Many buyers report that these durable sticks last for weeks or months. They come in multiple flavors and sizes, float in water, and satisfy most dogs’ chewing urges.

Nylabones

For 70 years, Nylabone Chew Toys have been helping puppies and adult dogs satisfy their chewing cravings without harming their teeth or surroundings. Nylabone manufactures chew toys, edible chew treats, and dental products that promote oral hygiene, discourage destructive chewing, and reduce stress. Their main ingredient is nylon, a non-toxic thermoplastic polymer that can be made into fabric, toothbrushes, car parts, and plastic food storage film.

Yak Cheese Chews

Yak cheese dog chews from Bully Bunches, Tibetan Dog Chews, Mount Tibet, EcoKind, and other manufacturers keep moderate chewers busy for days. Said to originate in the Himalayas (some are made in Nepal), early yak chews were made of air-dried yak milk. Today’s recipes combine yak milk with lime juice, which is compressed into bars and hardened for weeks. Some recipes include salt and some add strawberry, blueberry, or other flavors. The chews are hard, so opt for something softer if your dog has missing, sore, or weak teeth. Choose a size larger than your dog’s snout. Several manufacturers recommend limiting your dog to one chew every couple of days or less. When your dog reduces a yak cheese bar to a small piece, transform it into a crunchy cheese puff by soaking it in water for 10 minutes, then microwave it for 45 to 60 seconds (time depends on piece size). Let the cheese puff cool before giving it to your dog.

Garden Vegetables

Carrots, parsnips, broccoli, celery, peppers, sweet potatoes, and other raw vegetables are natural dog chews. Because they are sweet and high in carbohydrates, feed them in small quantities. Avoid onions and corn on the cob.

Kongs and Similar Toys

Rubber chew toys that have openings for food and treats are entertaining and rewarding. You can even feed some of your dog’s dinner in them. For inspiration and over a hundred recipes, visit  KONG Cuisine, West Paw (which manufactures chew toys and other items with synthetic, nontoxic rubber) and My Woof’s Pupsicle, which is a lick treat holder rather than a chew toy. Depending on what you stuff them with, these toys will excite and entertain your dog.

Dried Body Parts

A fast-growing section in pet supply stores offers air-dried and freeze-dried lamb lungs, duck necks, beef cheeks, pig snouts, tripe strips, lamb ears, fish skins, bones, and other satisfying dog chews. These animal-source chews come in a variety of shapes and sizes. For examples, visit RedBarn, Nature’s Logic,  Raw Paws, Natural Farm,  ZIWI, Oma’s Pride, and My Pet Carnivore.  

Puppy Teething Toys

For advice about safe, effective puppy chew toys, see “How to Choose the Best Puppy Teething Toys”.

The Importance of Supervision

Whether you choose rawhide chews or alternatives, help your dog enjoy the chewing experience without complications. Study ingredients, plan ahead, select the appropriate size for your dog, introduce chew treats carefully, supervise your pup, and be ready to substitute a different kind of treat if necessary.

New Year’s Wishes for Dog People

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Therapy dogs are wonderful companions on Holidays and New Years.
While on vacation, WDJ Editor Nancy Kerns got to visit Atle the Therapy Dog, whose partner is Lisa Rodier, a friend and long-time contributor to WDJ. Atle mostly works his magic among college students and staff at the University of Rhode Island, Kingston.

I’ve been traveling over the holidays and am still far from my home and my dogs, so I don’t have much to write about. But I would like to send you all some well-wishes for the new year—crafted just for us dog lovers in 2025:

May your puppies grow strong and able and learn about humans, other dogs, and the entire world without fear or pain.

May your young dogs find confidence and poise and enjoy boundless good health.

May your middle-aged dogs experience life by your side with as many treats and toys (and as few unplanned trips to the vet) as possible.

May your old dogs experience all the comfort and ease they deserve—or even if they don’t deserve it!—and bask in your love and admiration to their very last day.

And may you continue to learn to understand your dog’s language and teach him yours, for a joyful and conflict-free life together.

Happy New Year!

5 Best Snuffle Mats for Dogs

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The best dog snuffle mats offer a balance of engagement, stimulation, and ease of cleaning.
The best snuffle mats for dogs are durable, easy to clean, and provide enough of a challenge to keep the dog entertained. Credit: Jae Thomas

Dogs are natural foragers. They have instincts to hunt, sniff, and consume. While we probably don’t want our dogs to be hunting and eating things outside, the best snuffle mats can give your dog a good outlet to practice this instinctual behavior.

 

 

Snuffle mats are typically made with lots of long pieces of fabric attached to a base or mat to create a grass-like toy for your dog to sniff through and find food in. Some snuffle mats aren’t simply long pieces of fabric, they may also include different shaped treat compartments and additional built-in enrichment toys for an added challenge.

Are Snuffle Mats Good for Dogs?

Feeding your dog’s meals in a snuffle mat instead of a bowl is good for dogs for multiple reasons. First, dogs who eat too fast may be at risk for bloat. Snuffle mats extend mealtime and significantly slow down fast eaters.

The best snuffle mats for dogs allow for plenty of mental stimulation.
Snuffle mats, like the fleece option from Pupford shown here, can be used to help fast eaters slow down and provide mental stimulation for your dog. Credit: Jae Thomas

Snuffle mats are also good for mental enrichment. Sniffing is the number one way dogs gather information about the world, and dogs have between 100 million and 300 million scent receptors in their noses (in comparison, humans only have about five to six million). A good sniff sesh can also tire your pup out. Sniffing increases your dog’s respiration rate, so it’s almost like your dog is exercising while sniffing.

Whether you’re stuck inside due to bad weather or simply don’t have the time to take your dog on a long walk, dog snuffle mats are a fantastic way to give your dog some mental enrichment indoors and with little effort on your part.

How to Clean a Snuffle Mat

It’s been scientifically proven that toys and bowls are breeding grounds for bacteria if not cleaned properly. Like dog food and water bowls, snuffle mats should be cleaned between each use to prevent biofilm from forming. Biofilm is a mixture of different bacteria that can settle on your dog’s toys, water bowls, and snuffle mats and cause a slimy or crunchy texture to build up. Some of the bacteria present in biofilm can make both humans and dogs sick.

In a previous story for Whole Dog Journal, Rachel Goldammer, a service-dog breeding consultant and interim kennel manager at Guide Dogs of America in Sylmar, California, recommended using a degreasing agent to break down biofilm on dog toys.

If your snuffle mat is machine-washable, toss it in the laundry with hot water and a degreasing laundry detergent to banish biofilm and reduce the risk of the pets and humans in your home getting sick. If your snuffle mat is not machine washable, you’ll have to hand wash it. Opt for degreasing laundry detergent or Tide dish soap and hot water when hand washing snuffle mats. Make sure to thoroughly scrub them and allow them to soak in the hot water to remove any leftover food debris and germs.

Traits We Want in a Dog Snuffle Mat

Dog snuffle mats need to keep dogs engaged over and over again.
The Pet Parents Forager Snuffle Mat & Slow Feeder Dog Bowl (left) and PAW5 Wooly Snuffle Dog Feeding Mat (right) were among the best dog snuffle mats we tested. Credit: Jae Thomas

 

The best snuffle mats for dogs should be durable, have lots of hiding spots for food and treats, and be easy to clean. Here are the factors we took into consideration when testing snuffle mats:

Durability: Consider your dog: Are they a chewer? Will they pull out a string attached to a bowl-style snuffle mat? Some snuffle mats on the market have lots of fabric attached to a big mat, and depending on the quality, these fabric pieces could easily be pulled off and destroyed or ingested by your dog. Pick a snuffle mat that’s durable if your dog is a chewer, and always monitor them as they use the mat to make sure they’re using it safely.

Difficulty: The whole point of a snuffle mat is to give your dog mental enrichment, so choose a difficulty level appropriate to your dog. We like snuffle mats that have dense snuffle sections with lots of places to hide food. Options like the Pet Parents Forager Snuffle Mat and the PAW5 Wooly Snuffle Mat offer tons of hiding spots for dogs, simulate real foraging in grass, and take dogs a longer time to find all the food.

Cleaning: If you know that you’ll never hand wash your dog’s snuffle mat, opt for one that’s machine washable. Snuffle mats should ideally be cleaned between each use, so picking one that’s easy to wash means you’ll be more likely to clean it frequently.

Whole Dog Journal RatingProductPriceSizeNotes
Pet Parents Forager Snuffle Mat & Slow Feeder Dog Bowl$179 x 9 x 0.25 inchesDense snuffle section, solid construction, and thoughtful details. This reasonably-priced snuffle mat is also machine washable for easy cleaning.
PAW5 Wooly Snuffle Dog Feeding Mat$4018 x 12 x 3 inchesThis snuffle mat took my dogs the longest to complete. It’s made of extremely dense rolled cotton material, and is decently large. I wish it was priced a bit lower. It’s also machine washable.
Pupford Snuffle Mat$2518.5" x 12.5"This fleece snuffle mat is constructed in rows, which means you can separate each row of material to fill with food. It takes a bit longer to fill than other options on the list, but going row by row makes it a bigger challenge for the dogs to find all the food.
Frisco Pizza Snuffle Mat$2020 x 20 x 0.39 inchesBecause of the multiple sewed-on pieces, this snuffle mat is unfortunately not machine washable. It’s extremely large and has lots of hiding spots. Not the best option for dogs who shred or chew stuffed toys.
AWOOF Pet Snuffle Mat for Dogs$1518.8 x 18.8 x 3.1 inchesThough it’s not the most durable snuffle mat, the AWOOF Pet Snuffle mat is a decent option if you buy it on sale. It’s machine washable for easy clean up, and similar in design to our top pick.

Best Overall Dog Snuffle Mat: Pet Parents Forager Snuffle Mat & Slow Feeder Dog Bowl

Pet Parents Forager Snuffle Mat & Slow Feeder Dog Bowl

Quality construction, a dense snuffle section, thoughtful details, and a reasonable price make the Pet Parents Forager the best snuffle mat for dogs. It has a thick canvas backing, durable stitching, and non-slip backing. Though the non-slip backing doesn’t completely keep the snuffle mat from moving, it does a decent job at preventing dogs from slipping on it. This is a bowl-style snuffle mat, so you can pull the cinch string for an extra challenge or to store the mat when not in use. I loved the little tuck pouch for the excess cinch string. On other bowl-style mats I’ve tested, dogs have been able to pull the cinch string out of the mat and chew on it, which can be a choking hazard.

Best Snuffle Mat for Large Dogs: PAW5 Wooly Snuffle Dog Feeding Mat

PAW5 Wooly Snuffle Dog Feeding Mat

The PAW5 Snuffle Mat’s $40 price tag kept it away from being our winner, but it’s still a worthy option in many ways. It’s durable, machine washable, and easy to fill. It’s made of 100% cotton and can easily fit 1-2 cups of food. Just sprinkle the food over the top and push any exposed kibble or treats down a bit to increase the challenge. This mat likely gives the closest experience to foraging in tall grass and took my two dogs the longest to complete out of all the options. The only downside of this mat (aside from the price) is that because it doesn’t have a structured bottom, you can’t really fill it on the table, then set it down for your dog without dropping food out of it. It’s best to fill it while it’s already on the ground, so pop your pup in a crate, another room, or a down stay while you fill it.

Best Fleece Snuffle Mat: Pupford Snuffle Mat

Pupford Snuffle Mat

The Pupford Snuffle mat was a close runner up to the Pet Parents and PAW5 options. The seamed fleece construction means you can separate each layer of fleece into rows while filling, and all the food goes right to the bottom. This way takes a bit longer to fill, but it makes it more of a challenge for dogs to find all the snacks than simply pouring the food on top of the mat.

Most Unique Snuffle Mat: Frisco Pizza Snuffle Mat

Frisco Pizza Snuffle Mat

Most unique, fun-shaped snuffle mats don’t actually have many hiding spots for food and are much too easy for dogs who love to sniff. That’s not the case with the Frisco Pizza Snuffle Mat. This option is almost comically large, and features tons of hiding spots for snacks. The squiggly bacon pieces on top of the pizza are challenging spots, while in and around the pizza are a bit easier. Each section of the pizza is connected by Velcro to the crust, so you could even split it up between multiple dogs. Note that the pizza sections and the crust are plush and stuffed, so this isn’t a good option for dogs who shred or destroy plush toys. I wish this snuffle mat was machine washable, since hand washing between uses adds on an additional time commitment for pet parents.

Best Budget Snuffle Mat: AWOOF Pet Snuffle Mat for Dogs

AWOOF Pet Snuffle Mat for Dogs

This popular Amazon pick is a decent option if you’re looking to try snuffle mats for the first time, and if you can find it on sale. It’s similar in design to the Pet Parents Forager Snuffle Mat, but at its regular price, the AWOOF dog snuffle mat is only $2 cheaper, and the materials are definitely lower quality. In comparison, our top pick, the Pet Parents Forager Snuffle Mat, features a more durable canvas-like bottom construction, heftier anti-slip grip, thicker stitching, and denser middle construction for more challenging sniffing. In most cases we’d recommend just going for the PetParents option, however, the AWOOF snuffle mat is often on sale for $12.  If price is a dealbreaker for you, this is the dog snuffle mat to grab if you see it on sale.

 

What Size Dog Crate Do I Need for My Dog?

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The size of your dog's crate should allow them to stand up, turn around, and lay down comfortably.
The crate you select for your dog should be secure and allow enough room for your dog to stand, sit, and turnaround but not much more than that. Credit: Claudia Luna | Getty Images

Choosing the right size crate for your dog is essential to your dog’s comfort and safety. Whether you are crate training, traveling, or simply providing your dog with a safe space to relax, an appropriately sized crate can make a significant difference in your dog’s wellbeing.

Your dog should be able to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably in a crate. A crate that is too small can cause stress and discomfort, while one that is too large may not feel secure and may make training more difficult. It can also pose safety concerns when traveling.

To select a crate that fits your dog, you will need to measure the dog with a measuring tape. It is more efficient if you have someone to help you hold the dog still when you measure. The measurements you need include:

  • This is the distance from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail.
  • This is the dog’s standing height, or the distance from the floor to the top of their head being held in a comfortable position.

Once you have these measurements, you can start comparing them to manufacturer listed crate dimensions. You want to be sure your dog can move freely in the crate, plus, you are usually going to add a bed or mat to the floor, which can take up an inch or so of height space. Consider a crate that is several inches longer and taller than your dog.

Many crate manufacturers provide dog weight ranges for their products. This can give you an idea of the appropriate size, but it is important to remember that some dogs may need more space than others, even if they are within the recommended weight range, so don’t go solely on the dog’s weight as a recommendation for size. Measure height and length. Note: Some manufacturers may have specific ways for you to measure your dog, so be sure to doublecheck the website.

How Big Should a Dog Crate Be?

While dogs need enough space to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, it is important that the crate is not too large. Dogs generally prefer snug, enclosed spaces where they feel secure. In addition, a crate that is too large may lead to accidents, as your dog may be inclined to use one corner as a bathroom.

Types of Dog Crates

Crates come in several materials and styles, each with their own benefits. If you’re flying, always check with the airlines for specifications and specific requirements for their carrier. If you’re shipping your dog by a ground transportation service, be sure you choose the best carrier. And, if you and your dog are taking an international journey, there’s a lot more to consider besides the crate.

Wire crates. Wire crates are among the most common crates. They offer great ventilation and visibility for your dog, which can be especially helpful for crate training. They are easy to clean and are considered a secure crate if you have an escape artist.

If you’re interested in a wire crate, but your dog doesn’t like the open feel to the crate (many dogs don’t), you can place a cover over the crate to give it more of a cave-like, secure feel. Wire crates can be folded for storage and are typically a durable option (see manufacturer information for how to collapse a wire dog crate).

Plastic crates. Plastic crates are typically made from hard plastic and are frequently used for travel. They provide a more enclosed, den-like environment, which some dogs prefer. They are easy to wipe or hose clean, although you may have to climb into the bigger ones a bit. These crates tend to be secure, and they have a natural cave-like feel.

Crash crates. There are also plastic and metal crates on the market designed for vehicle travel and have safety considerations built in to try to ensure your pet stays as safe as possible if a vehicle collision occurs. These include crates from Variocage, Impact Crates, SleepyPod (for small dogs), Gunner, and Ruff Land Kennels.

Designed to endure a car crash, these dog crates come in metal and plastic materials, and many can be custom made to your car space and dog ventilation needs. Some can double as a house or competition crate, but these products tend to be heavy and expensive. Some companies have submitted their products to the Center for Pet Safety and received safety certification.

Soft crates. Soft-sided crates are lightweight and made of fabric with a frame of metal or plastic. They are lightweight and easy to transport, fold down for storage, and are comfortable for a dog to rest in. They are popular with people who have well-trained sporting or show dogs, but soft crates are not suitable for puppies or any dogs that scratch or chew. They should only be used for dogs that are already fully crate trained. Most soft crates collapse for storage. Consult manufacturer information for how to fold a soft dog crate.

Selecting the right crate for your dogs is an essential step in ensuring their comfort, safety, and happiness. By measuring your dogs properly and considering their specific needs, you can create a space that helps them feel secure and content.

Puppy Milk Formula

Puppy formula is a substitute for their mother's milk.
Selecting the right puppy formula and timing the feedings appropriately to the pup’s age are vital to raising a puppy without mother’s milk. Credit: 0802290022 | Getty Images

Bringing a newborn puppy, or litter, into your home is exciting, but it also comes with great responsibility. Whether you are caring for a newborn puppy that has been separated from its mother or are fostering a puppy in need, one of the most important aspects of their early development is ensuring they receive the appropriate nutrition. For puppies that are unable to nurse from their mother, puppy milk replacers play a vital role in their growth and development.

What Are Puppy Milk Formulas?

Puppy milk formulas are liquids or ready-to-mix powders that have been specifically formulated to mimic the nutritional profile of a mother dog’s milk. These products are nutritionally balanced to meet the specific needs of a rapidly growing puppy and provide the essential proteins, fats, vitamins, and minerals they need for proper development during their first weeks of life. Milk replacers for puppies are a vital resource for orphaned puppies, for those that cannot nurse properly due to health issues, or for mothers who cannot produce an adequate milk supply for their litter.

The first few weeks of a puppy’s life are a time of rapid growth and crucial for their development and life-long health. The primary period that puppy milk replacer is necessary is from birth to about 4 weeks of age. Puppies generally begin to transition to solid foods around 4 weeks, but until then, they rely on their mother’s milk or a high-quality milk replacer as their sole source of nutrition.

Common scenarios where puppy milk replacer might be needed include orphaned puppies, inadequate maternal milk supply, maternal health issues, such as mastitis, and weak or rejected puppies. The sooner an issue can be identified, the better the outcome for the litter, so it is important to keep a very close eye on young puppies, as early intervention can prevent catastrophic outcomes.

Choosing a Good Puppy Milk Replacer

When it comes to milk, it is important to remember that not all milks are the same. For the same reasons that human babies cannot survive on cow’s milk and need baby formula, cow or goat milk is not an appropriate substitute for puppy milk. While cow or goat milk may seem like an easy solution, both contain higher levels of lactose, a sugar found in milk, that can upset a puppy’s sensitive stomach, leading to diarrhea and dehydration, and lower protein and fat levels than puppies need. Cow and goat milk, or the protein fractions of them, may be used as ingredients in puppy milk replacers and are balanced with other components to provide lower lactose levels, higher protein, higher fat, and are fortified with essential vitamins and minerals.

When selecting a puppy milk replacer, consider the form and quality of the product. Choose a product specifically designed for puppies. It should have the proper balance of protein, fat, carbohydrates (milk sugars), vitamins, and minerals needed for growth. Look for formulas that closely match the composition of dog’s milk, which has an average, on a dry matter basis, of 7.5% protein, 9.5% fat, and 3.8% sugar.

The fat composition is especially important, as it is crucial for healthy weight gain and proper brain development. Puppies have delicate stomachs, so look for formulas that are easy to digest. Some brands incorporate enzymes or probiotics to aid in digestion, which can be beneficial for weak or very young puppies. Additionally, some brands include a source of colostrum into their formulations, which helps support immune function and aids in gut health.

Puppy milk replacers come in two types: liquids and powders. Powdered formulas are the most common and cost effective, but they do require mixing with water. Powdered formulas are easier to store and have a longer shelf life, however, error is more likely as owners have to mix the formula themselves. Liquid, or ready-to-feed, formulas are more convenient but are also more expensive. These formulas are ideal for owners who need to avoid the hassle of mixing powder.

When preparing puppy milk replacer, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on how to mix the formula as well as storage after opening. The ratio of powder to water must be precise, as too much powder can cause constipation or dehydration, while too little may result in malnutrition. Always use clean, sterilized bottles and nipples to prevent bacterial or fungal contamination. You can warm the formula by placing the bottle in a bowl of warm water. The milk should be lukewarm – never too hot, as it can burn the puppy’s mouth. It is important not to microwave the milk, as excessive heat can destroy nutrients. After the milk is mixed or opened, it should be refrigerated and used within 24 hours. If left at room temperature, it should be discarded after one hour.

Puppy Feeding Chart

The appropriate feeding schedule depends upon on the age of the puppy:

Newborns (0 to 3 weeks of age): Puppies this young need to be fed every two to three hours, even at night. The amount of milk ingested depends upon the size of the puppy, but stomachs should look full and round, not sunken, after feeding. When feeding, hold the bottle upright and allow the puppy to nurse at its own pace. When choosing a bottle, make sure to select the appropriate nipple size. Too large of a hole make cause the milk to flow too quickly, which can cause the puppy to aspirate and choke, while too small of a hole can restrict milk intake and cause frustration. Ensure puppies are kept warm, as they are unable to thermoregulate at this age. Additionally, after feeding, it is important to stimulate urination and defecation with a warm damp cloth or cotton pad if the puppy is not with their mother.

3 to 4 weeks of age: Feedings can be extended to every three to four hours. At this age, puppies may begin to lap milk from a shallow bowl or dish in addition to being bottle fed.

Weaning (4 to 6 weeks of age): To begin introducing solid food, make a gruel by mixing high-quality puppy food with milk replacer in a shallow dish, gradually reducing the amount of formula over time. By 8 weeks of age, puppies should be fully weaned and eating solid food.

While feeding, watch for any signs of discomfort or complications. Diarrhea, vomiting, aspiration of milk, or lack of weight gain could indicate an issue with the formula or feeding technique. If you notice any of these, contact your veterinarian immediately, as puppies can go downhill very quickly. Maddie’s Fund, an organization dedicated to animal welfare, has an excellent, printable chart that can help guide you through many problems with orphaned puppies.

Choosing the right puppy milk replacer and feeding your puppy properly during their early weeks is essential to ensure they grow up healthy and strong. By selecting a high-quality formula, following feeding guidelines, and monitoring your puppy’s progress, you can help give them the best start possible in life. If you ever feel uncertain about your puppy’s progress, or if problems arise, do not hesitate to reach out to your veterinarian for advice and support.

Seborrhea in Dogs

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Seborrhea in dogs is a disorder of the skin that is a symptom of several diseases.
Closeup the disease on dog skin,Dermatitis in Dog,skin laminate and dog hair fallen around the disease.

Got flaky skin? Maybe with a little odor and grease? Your dog may have seborrhea.

Seborrhea is not a disease, but a description of an abnormal process occurring with your dog’s skin and sebaceous glands. It is a symptom of a broader spectrum of diseases called keratinization disorders.

Keratinization is the formation of the outermost layer of skin. A dog who has a disease that disrupts keratinization may have dry, flaky skin (known as seborrhea sicca) or they may have greasy, flaky skin that has an odor (known as seborrhea oleosa).

Keratinization disorders are divided into two categories: primary disorders and secondary disorders. Primary keratinization disorders include those that have a genetic (also known as inherited) cause. Secondary keratinization disorders always have an underlying primary cause, such as parasites, infections, endocrine diseases, allergies, auto-immune diseases, nutritional deficiencies or cancer.

Primary Keratinization Disorders in Dogs

Most primary keratinization disorders have a genetic cause. Those disorders for which a cause cannot be found are labeled idiopathic.

Genetic or hereditary causes include color dilution alopecia, follicular dysplasia, ichthyosis, and several other recognized conditions that affect certain breeds of dogs. These conditions are inherited and begin to manifest in puppies and young adults.

Color dilution alopecia affects dogs with a blue- or fawn-colored hair coat. Dogs with color dilution alopecia will experience thinning hair or patchy hair loss starting at about six months of age. Their skin may be flaky or even itchy. There is no cure for color dilution alopecia. This condition affects only a dog’s skin and not their overall health.

Follicular dysplasia is a group of genetic disorders that affect the structure of the hair shaft (individual hairs) and the hair follicle (the pore in which the root of the hair sits). Dogs with follicular dysplasia may have regional hair loss, a patchy change in coat color, or a coat with an uneven appearance. They may also have dry, flaky skin that is not itchy.

As with color dilution alopecia, there is no cure for follicular dysplasia. Treatment with retinoids may improve the overall condition of the skin and promote initial regrowth of fur. Even with treatment, hair loss will progressively worsen and become permanent.

Ichthyosis is a group of genetic disorders that affect the structure of the outermost layer of skin. The word prefix “ichthy” comes from the Greek word root for fish. Dogs with ichthyosis have skin that resembles the appearance of fish scales.

Dogs with color dilution alopecia, follicular dysplasia, or ichthyosis may benefit from periodic bathing with a medicated shampoo to manage their dry skin and any superficial skin infections that arise. Their skin should be protected from sun exposure, either with a sunscreen made for dogs or with clothing that blocks UV rays. Dogs with these conditions should not be bred, as they will pass the gene for their condition to their offspring.

Vitamin A dermatosis is an inherited condition that is rarely seen in dogs. Cocker Spaniels are the most affected breed, although this condition has been seen in other breeds of dogs. Some dogs with vitamin A dermatosis have skin that lacks a sufficient amount of vitamin A. Other dogs with this condition are not able to completely utilize the vitamin A in their skin. Vitamin A dermatosis may be treated with oral vitamin A supplementation and a class of medication called retinoids.

Zinc responsive dermatosis may have a genetic or nutritional cause. Type I zinc responsive dermatosis is an inherited condition that affects Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes. This condition can also be seen in Doberman Pinschers and Great Danes. Dogs with this condition have a genetic defect that limits the amount of zinc they can absorb from their small intestine. These dogs require lifelong supplementation of zinc.

The other two types of zinc responsive dermatosis have nutritional causes and are not inherited. These two types are discussed in the next section on secondary causes.

Secondary Keratinization Disorders in Dogs

Secondary keratinization disorders always have an underlying primary cause. Underlying primary causes include parasites, infections, endocrine diseases, allergies, auto-immune diseases, nutritional deficiencies, and cancer.

Parasitic causes of secondary keratinization disorders include demodicosis, sarcoptic mange, cheyletiellosis, and lice infestations. See the article “Treatment and Signs of Parasites in Dogs” for more information about these skin parasites and how to treat them.

Skin infections caused by bacteria, the yeast Malassezia, or dermatophytes (commonly known as ringworm) may result in a secondary keratinization disorder. Skin infections caused by bacteria or Malassezia are known as pyoderma. Dermatophyte infections are known as dermatophytosis. These infections are often treated with a combination of oral and topical medications.

Endocrine diseases that are associated with secondary keratinization disorders include hypothyroidism and hyperadrenocorticism (also known as Cushing’s disease). Your veterinarian may order blood and urine tests if she suspects one of these endocrine diseases. Both diseases are treated with daily oral medication.

The broad category of allergies includes any cause of atopic dermatitis (also known as atopy), flea allergy dermatitis, food hypersensitivities, and allergies to contact or airborne allergens. See the article “Allergies in Dogs” for more information on diagnosis of allergies and treatment.

Secondary keratinization disorders may be caused by immune-mediated diseases (also known as auto-immune disorders), such as pemphigus foliaceus, systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), sebaceous adenitis, and cutaneous drug reactions. In auto-immune disorders, the dog’s immune system forms antibodies against some of its own cells or tissues. This causes damage to the affected cells or tissues in the body. Auto-immune disorders are treated with medications that regulate the body’s immune system.

The types of zinc responsive dermatosis that have a nutritional cause are known as type II and type III zinc responsive dermatosis. Type II zinc responsive dermatosis is caused by eating a diet that is high in calcium or phytates. Phytates (also known as phytic acid) are found in seeds, nuts, legumes, and grains. Phytates interfere with the absorption of zinc, calcium, and iron. Your veterinarian will recommend diets appropriate for your dog if he has type II zinc responsive dermatosis.

Type III zinc responsive dermatosis is caused by feeding a diet that contains insufficient levels of zinc. This may include home-cooked diets that are not correctly supplemented with appropriate levels of vitamins and minerals. Diets that do not contain the recommended minimum amount of zinc may also cause this type of dermatosis.

Cutaneous lymphoma is a form of cancer that affects the lymphocytes in a dog’s skin. Dogs with cutaneous lymphoma may have red, scaly and flaky skin. Other manifestations of this illness include having one or more raised and ulcerated lesions of the skin, nose, or lips; thickened and ulcerated gums in the mouth; or loss of pigment at the end of the nose.

Diagnosing Canine Keratinization Disorders

Secondary keratinization disorders are more common than primary keratinization disorders in dogs. Your veterinarian will start with diagnostic tests that include a skin swab cytology, a skin scrape cytology, and a fungal culture. Other tests may include blood work, including a complete blood count and chemistry panel. A biopsy of affected skin with histopathology performed by a veterinary dermatology pathologist may be necessary to determine the underlying cause.

With proper diagnosis and treatment, your dog can achieve relief from the discomfort of seborrhea. Talk to your veterinarian about an appropriate diagnostic and treatment plan for your dog’s condition.

High-Fiber Dog Food and Anal Glands

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High fiber dog food can help with anal gland problems and scooting.
A dog scooting on the floor may be battling an anal-gland impaction, which is painful. While he may need a trip to the veterinarian first, feeding a diet higher in fiber can help prevent it from happening again. Credit: ThamLC | Getty Images

One of the most effective ways to help manage and prevent anal-gland problems in dogs is through dietary adjustments, particularly by increasing your dog’s fiber intake. Low-fiber food can cause anal-gland issues in dogs, but it’s one of several risk factors.

“Food-allergy dermatitis and atopic dermatitis may contribute to anal sac disease. Other risk factors include anatomic abnormalities of the anal sacs, chronic diarrhea, constipation, obesity, and a low-fiber diet,” says Dr. Brian Collins, a veterinarian at the Richard P. Riley Canine Health Center at Cornell University.

What are Anal Glands?

Anal-gland issues are a common health concern for dogs, causing discomfort, bad odor, and potential complications if not properly addressed. These problems are often related to anal-gland impaction, where the scent glands near the anus of dogs become full and inflamed, leading to discomfort, scooting, excessive licking, and infections.

Dogs have two small sacs (anal glands) located on either side of the anus. These glands secrete a smelly substance used for marking territory. Normally, these glands express themselves when the dog defecates, with the stool applying pressure to the glands as it passes. However, some dogs experience impaction or infection of the anal glands, which can cause pain, swelling, and discomfort.

Common symptoms of anal-gland issues include:

  • Scooting or dragging their bottom
  • Licking or biting at their rear end
  • A foul, fishy smell
  • Swelling or redness around the anus
  • Difficulty or discomfort while defecating

In some cases, the glands may need to be manually expressed. (Manually expressing the anal glands is not difficult, but you need training to do it.) In severe cases, surgery may be required. However, many anal-gland problems can be managed or prevented through the diet, specifically by increasing the fiber content in the food.

Dog Food High in Fiber

Fiber plays a key role in promoting healthy digestion and bowel movements. It adds bulk to the stool, which in turn helps the anal glands naturally express themselves during defecation. Larger, firmer stools help provide the necessary pressure on the anal glands to encourage expression, reducing the likelihood of impaction.

The two main types of fiber in dog food are soluble fiber and insoluble fiber. Soluble fiber is found in ingredients like sweet potatoes, pumpkin, and psyllium. Soluble fiber absorbs water and forms a gel-like substance in the intestines. This helps soften stool and can assist in managing diarrhea and constipation.

Insoluble fiber, also known as bulk fiber, is found in ingredients like celery, green beans, cellulose, and wheat bran. This fiber adds bulk to the stool and improves overall consistency. While both types of fiber are beneficial for anal gland health, insoluble fiber is particularly important for providing the bulk needed to properly express the anal glands.

Best High-Fiber Foods for Anal Glands

When choosing a high-fiber dog food for anal-gland health, look for formulas that include high-fiber ingredients such as brans, oat or rice hulls, beet pulp, cellulose, alfalfa, green beans, and psyllium husk. The ideal fiber content for a dog’s diet depends on the dog’s age, breed, and overall health, however, most adult dogs benefit from a fiber intake of 2.5% to 5% on a dry matter basis. For dogs with anal gland issues, a higher fiber content (5% or more) may be beneficial. Adding vegetables, such as green beans, can also help increase fiber intake for your dog. You can search Whole Dog Journal’s Dry Dog Food Database for foods with higher fiber values.

High-fiber dog food can play a crucial role in managing and preventing anal gland issues by ensuring stools are large and form enough to express the glands naturally. By choosing the right high-fiber dog food and working with your veterinarian, you can ensure your dog stays comfortable, healthy, and free from the discomfort of anal gland issues.

Is Grain-Free Good for Dogs?

A grain free diet isn't necessarily good for dogs unless they're sensitive to grains.
Deciding upon a grain-free or traditional ingredients dog food depends upon your individual dog’s nutritional needs—and, possibly, ingredients he should avoid. Credit: Dageldog | Getty Images

Grain-free dog food has become a popular choice among pet owners in recent years, often marketed as a healthier alternative to traditional kibble that contains grains like wheat and corn. However, while grain-free diets may offer certain benefits to some dogs, they may not be the right choice for every pet. This article explores both the pros and cons of grain-free dog food to help you make an informed decision for your pet’s health and well-being.

As the name suggests, grain-free dog food and treats do not contain any grains, such as wheat, corn, barley, rice, or oats. Instead, these diets rely on alternative carbohydrate sources such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, peas, lentils, chickpeas, or tapioca. These ingredients provide energy and nutrients for the diet and eliminate the need for grains in the formula.

Choosing the Right Food for Your Dog

It is important to understand that all commercial diets, regardless of the ingredients used, are formulated to fall within the necessary nutritional requirements from the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). These standards ensure overall health and nutritional adequacy, regardless of the inclusion or absence of grain. Always check your food label to be sure the food you choose meets AAFCO standards for your specific dog.

When Grain-Free Dog Food May Be Good

When selecting any pet food, it is essential to consider your dog’s individual needs, including age, breed, activity level, and any health concerns.  There are some situations where a grain-free diet may be the best choice for your dog. Some dogs have food sensitivities or allergies to grains, which can result in digestive upset or skin issues.

Common symptoms of food sensitivities in dogs include:

  • Bloating
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Itchy skin
  • Ear infections
  • Hot spots

If your dog is sensitive to grains, a grain-free diet may reduce the risk of triggering these issues and help improve your pet’s health.

Grain-free diets are sometimes used by pet owners who prefer a higher-protein, lower-carbohydrate food for their dog. Dogs with high energy levels or those needing to build or maintain muscle mass may thrive on a protein-dense, grain-free diet.

However, while grain-free diets are often marketed as “high-protein,” not all grain-free foods are created equal. Some foods may rely on non-animal protein sources, such as peas and lentils, instead of using meat. It is also important to note that grain-free does not mean the diet is carbohydrate-free, so keep this in mind when evaluating your options, especially if you are considering switching your pet for weight loss, or to help manage diabetes or insulin resistance.

Concerns About Grain-Free Dog Food

While grain-free dog food can be beneficial for certain dogs, there has been concern in the past several years among veterinarians regarding a potential link between grain-free diets and a heart condition called dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM). DCM affects the heart’s ability to pump blood effectively, which can lead to heart failure or even sudden death.

In 2018, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) launched an investigation to determine if there was a link between grain-free diets, particularly those rich in legumes (peas, lentils, chickpeas), and an increased incidence of DCM. The concerns arose from reports suggesting that dogs, especially breeds that were genetically predisposed to DCM, were developing the condition at an alarming rate while eating grain-free foods.

Since the FDA’s initial report, studies have been conducted, though a definitive correlation between grain-free diets and DCM has not been established. Many veterinarians agree that DCM is a multifactorial disease, meaning it can be caused by a combination of many factors including genetics, environment, lifestyle, and diet.

Regardless of the diet you are feeding, you should always keep an eye out for signs of DCM, which include:

  • Coughing
  • Lethargy
  • difficulty breathing
  • Loss of appetite
  • Collapsing

If you notice any of these signs, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Making the Grain-Free Decision

Ultimately, the decision to feed your dog a grain-free diet depends upon a variety of factors, including your dog’s health status, breed, and individual needs. While grain-free dog food may benefit some dogs with food sensitivities or allergies, it may not be necessary for all pets.

Grain-inclusive diets contain grains, which provide a source of easily digestible carbohydrates. These diets can be an excellent choice for dogs without food sensitivities and many dogs thrive on them. On the other hand, if your dog has a grain sensitivity or is prone to food allergies, a grain-free diet may be a better-fit. The key is to understand your dog’s unique dietary needs and consult with your veterinarian to determine the most appropriate food.

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