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Grateful for Dogs on This and Every Thanksgiving

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Three adorable dogs on a Thanksgiving Hike.
Woody, Boone, and foster Maeve, the dogs sharing a Thanksgiving Day hike and meal with WDJ Editor-in-Chief Nancy Kerns this year.

It goes without saying that on a holiday devoted to gratitude, that I am grateful for my dogs. While they are occasionally a source of concern (both of them being prone to minor but mysterious and undiagnoseable maladies), they are daily a source of amusement and affection, companionship and comfort. They help me professionally, as models for WDJ, test subjects for product reviews and training techniques, and as helper dogs in training classes. And perhaps most importantly, they make me get outdoors to walk—a cure for most bad moods, depression, lethargy, or headaches, and a huge component of my mental health maintenance program.

While my own dogs have been a lifelong source of love and learning, so has all of dogdom. The free-roaming dogs of the rural area where I spent my childhood were as friendly and familiar to me as the kids I rode the bus with—that is to say, some nice and some who were best avoided! From those rural roots I learned about the respect that a well-trained dog can inspire from watching our rancher friend’s Kelpies work cattle, and how dogs who are unguided and unsupervised usually come to tragic ends. Later, force-free dog training and behavior modification deeply informed how I parented my son—“catch them in the act of doing something right and reinforce!”—and I am immeasurably proud to see him carry on that sort of parenting.

I’m also grateful for the humans who have come into my life through dogs. Some of the most generous, compassionate, and selfless people I know, love, and admire are those who work to help dogs. This includes people who work with dogs professionally, such as shelter workers, trainers, veterinarians, and vet techs, but also people who volunteer as foster providers, transporters, trappers, fundraisers, and artists. And my best friends are all “dog people.” We may not know the names of each other’s partners, but we know everything about each other’s dogs, including their food allergies and titles obtained! And when our beloved dogs pass away, we share each other’s deep grief.

If you’re like me, you will take the opportunity on this Thanksgiving Day to show your gratitude to your dogs. Most of us will provide our dogs with a special meal on Thanksgiving—but it will be even more significant to them if you take them for a special walk to their favorite place, and let them sniff and explore at their pace (and you will feel better for having taken a walk, too!). But consider extending your gratitude for dogs in general by sending a donation to or volunteering to help needy dogs at your local shelter. The staff and dogs will be even more grateful.

High-Calorie Dog Food

High-calorie dog foods can support a dog with a very active lifestyle.
A high-energy, athletic dog often needs a food that is nutrient-dense, high-calorie food to maintain his weight. Credit: S5lztok | Getty Images

When it comes to keeping your dog healthy, active, and energized, the right diet plays a crucial role. For dogs with higher energy needs—active dogs, working dogs, athletes, puppies, nursing females, and dogs recovering from illness or surgery—finding a diet that is energy-dense is crucial. You need a nutrient-dense, high-calorie food that will help keep your dog performing at his or her best. But how do you decide? Read on.

What Is High-Calorie Dog Food?

High-calorie dog food is designed to provide more energy per serving, typically through higher levels of fat, protein, and sometimes digestible carbohydrates. This type of food is ideal for dogs with elevated energy needs, including working dogs, sport dogs, dogs with high metabolisms, and those who are highly active or undergoing intense training. The dog food bag will likely be labeled for these types of dogs. Active dogs, and those with high metabolisms or specific health concerns, burn through calories much faster than sedentary dogs.

High-calorie foods are designed to provide the necessary nutrients and energy required to fuel their lifestyles without overfeeding them. This ensures that dogs maintain their weight, muscle mass, and energy levels throughout the day. For active dogs, high-calorie food helps ensure they have the energy to keep their muscles and metabolism functioning efficiently, giving them stamina to perform throughout the day. Dogs recovering from medical conditions often need extra calories to support tissue repair, fuel the immune system, and regain strength, and promote healing.

How to Select The Best Dog Food

Fat is the most energy-dense nutrient at 9 calories per gram. On the other hand, protein and carbohydrates only 4 calories per gram. Because of its density, many high-calorie foods are formulated with a higher fat content, ranging from 15% to 30%, or higher, compared to standard dog food that typically ranges from 8% to 15% fat. The higher fat content provides a concentrated source of energy, allowing active dogs to get the fuel they need without needing to consume large quantities of food.

Read the Dog Food Ingredients List

When selecting the best high-calorie dog food for your active pup, consider:

  • The quality of ingredients
  • Digestibility of the food
  • Any health issues your dog may have

Look for high-quality protein sources of animal origin, such as chicken, beef, lamb, or fish. To maintain muscle mass, high-calorie diets should be high in complete proteins. High-calorie foods should also contain highly digestible ingredients to prevent gastrointestinal issues. And make transitions to your new food over a time of a week or so, plus, it’s wise to buy bags at a size you think your dog can finish within a month.

Calories Count

The calorie content of these foods typically ranges from 400 to 500 or more calories per cup. If your dog has specific health needs, such as joint issues, a sensitive stomach, or a history of heart disease, choose a formula that addresses those concerns in addition to providing high-calorie support.

High-calorie dog food is an excellent choice for active dogs who require more energy to maintain their vitality, muscle mass, and endurance. Whether you have a sporting dog, a working dog, or a high-energy puppy, a nutrient-dense, high-calorie food will help keep them performing at their best. Note: Please visit our website and use our searchable database of wet dog foods and dry dog foods to help narrow down the number of choices to what you’re looking to find for your dog. For example, if your dog can’t eat chicken, our database will bring up foods that don’t include chicken.

Ask Questions

If you’re not sure a food is right for your dog, such as maybe you’re worried about a certain ingredient that isn’t on the bag, send an email to the company’s customer service. Usually, if you ask a specific question, you’ll get a helpful answer. If you don’t, you may want to look at other foods. Most customer service representatives will request help from the company’s nutritionists when necessary, so you may not get an immediate response. Good companies want your business.

And, of course, as with any dietary change, always consult your veterinarian to ensure the diet is appropriate for your specific dog and their health conditions. With the right food, your dog will have all the energy they need to stay active, happy, and healthy.

Can Dogs Get Lice?

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Dogs can get lice, and the way it is spread is from close contact with other dogs.
: Lice on a dog can be spread through direct contact with another dog, such as when playing. Credit: Red Stallion | Getty Images

Yes, dogs can get lice. While not as common as fleas, lice can find a home on your canine companion. Two distinct types of lice infest dogs, according to the Companion Animal Parasite Council, a nonprofit group focused on bringing awareness of the threat parasites present to pets and family members. Those lice are:

 

  1. Mallophaga: Biting, or chewing, lice that often leave cuts on your dog’s skin.
  2. Anoplura: Sucking lice feed on the dog’s blood. Their narrow heads are designed to pierce a dog’s skin.

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, signs of a lice infestation in dogs include:

  • Excessive scratching and biting
  • Hair loss
  • Irritated skin
  • Visible lice or nits (lice eggs)

Lice on your dog can cause a potentially serious condition known as pediculosis, which involves terrible itching and scratching and potentially anemia, so don’t waste time. If you suspect your dog has lice, talk to your veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Can Dogs Get Lice from Humans?

If your first question was, “Can dogs get lice?” your next questions are probably:

Can lice on my dog spread to me? No.

Can my dog get lice from people? No.

Can these pesky parasites make the leap back and forth from dog to human? No.

The good news is that the lice that affect dogs are species-specific. You don’t have to worry about catching lice from your dog, and your dog doesn’t have to worry about catching them from you.

“Parasite lice are highly ‘host-specific,’ which means that they typically live, feed, and reproduce on a single species of animal,” according to a report by Purdue University. “These lice very rarely transfer to a human, and they die within a few hours or so if they happen to get on our bodies. This is why pets and livestock that are infested with lice are not a source of louse infestation to infants, young children, and adults.”

The Stages of Canine Lice

The first stage of canine lice occurs when female lice glue their eggs, or nits, to the hairs of your dog, near the skin, Jennifer E. Thomas, DVM, Oklahoma State University, writes in the Merck Veterinary Manual. Unfortunately, ordinary shampooing and washing will not eliminate nits.

The warning signs of lice infestation are excessive scratching, biting, and rubbing. The dog’s coat may appear rough and dry, and in severe cases, hair can mat. Sucking lice can cause small wounds that may become infected.

The diagnosis of lice is typically made by visually identifying lice or their eggs in the fur, particularly when parting the hair. Chewing lice are more active and visible, while sucking lice move slower and often appear embedded in the skin.

However, it’s important to note that scratching from a severe lice infestation can sometimes lead to secondary skin infections. If your dog has a severe case of lice, it’s best to consult your veterinarian to prevent complications and to be sure it’s lice and not a different parasite.

How Lice Spread?

Lice can be transmitted in several ways: Direct contact, such as playing or grooming, is the most common way lice spread between dogs. Additionally, bedding, grooming tools, collars, or toys can become and transmit lice.  Thanks to the use of flea and tick preventives, pediculosis in dogs and cats has become rare in the United States and usually occurs on feral, stray, or animals in shelters that have poor sanitation. Dogs that are already compromised due to illness, malnutrition, or stress are more susceptible to lice infestations.

Preventing Lice Before They Infest Your Dog

Preventing lice infestations in dogs involves a few simple steps. Regular grooming, including brushing and bathing, helps detect infestations early. Maintaining a clean space for your dog is crucial. Avoid sharing grooming tools or bedding among dogs. Lastly, routine veterinary check-ups can help identify potential issues before they become severe.

When Is A Dog Considered a Senior?

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When is a dog a senior dog. There are many signs inside and out.
A lot of factors that go into determining when exactly a dog reaches senior status, but there are some simple things dog owners can do to help an aging dog stay happy and healthy. Credit: Bread and Butter Productions | Getty Images

“There is not a ‘one size fits all’ schedule for senior status, as different-sized dogs age at different rates,” says Dr. Robin Downing, Hospital Director for the Downing Center for Animal Pain Management in Colorado. We know from biological markers that metabolic and structural changes occur as dogs age determining their senior status, she says. And size matters.

When Is My Dog a Senior?

Tiny dogs have a longer life expectancy while giant and large breeds are on the other end of the spectrum biologically, aging faster.

  • Small/tiny dogs are typically considered seniors around 10 to 11 years.
  • Medium-sized dogs usually reach senior status around 8 to 9 years.
  • Larger/giant breeds age faster and are usually considered seniors at around 6 to 7 years.

“One important consideration is a dog’s biologic age may or may not match their chronologic age,” says Downing, noting that the rate of aging depends on many factors including genetics and lifestyle. This, she says, gives pet owners a powerful opportunity to help their dogs achieve and maintain a lower biological age than chronological through preventive care.

A recent study using data from the Dog Aging Project found other factors affecting activity over time including the owner’s age, dog and owner characteristics, dog size, and the environment where they live.

Caring for a Senior Dog

When you are caring for an aging dog, there are some things you can do to improve or even extend her life. Helping a senior dog stay healthy can include:

  • Keeping your dog a healthy weight is the first line of defense. Your vet can help determine an optimal weight and body composition for your dog.
  • Making sure your dog sees a vet at least every six months. Early detection of any potential problems means early intervention, supporting a longer and better life.
  • Getting regular exercise. Exercise remains key for maintaining aging muscles and joints. “Move it or lose it.”
  • Providing mental enrichment. Seek out safe opportunities for mental and emotional engagement, such as learning new skills or tricks. For more on how to keep your older dog mentally engaged, see “The Importance of Mental Stimulation for Dogs.”
  • Don’t forget to socialize! Experiences like cafes and group walks are healthy activities for dogs who like that kind of thing. Honor your dog’s preferences regarding social time.
  • Providing regular dental care at home and professional periodontal therapy as needed. Periodontal disease is extremely common in older dogs and can lead to a number of other health problems.

Common Senior Dog Health Problems

Old age is not a disease, yet some health issues are more common in older dogs. Among them are:

  • Osteoarthritis (OA)
  • Chronic kidney disease
  • Congestive heart failure
  • Cancer: Have your vet investigate every lump.
  • Hearing and vision loss
  • Age-related cognitive dysfunction

When it comes to older dogs, less get-up-and-go stamina does not necessarily mean the dog is uncomfortable or in pain. However, a marked decrease in activity and mobility almost always indicates pain, according to Downing. Check out all mobility issues with your vet.

Senior Dog Nutrition

“There is no defined nutrient profile for a “Senior” life stage,” says veterinary nutritionist Dr. Julie Churchill. “This means pet foods labeled for “seniors” is a marketing term and not defined by anyone other than that specific company.”

The American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) regulates and defines pet food industry standards for a “complete and balanced” diet for life stages of healthy dogs (growth and adult maintenance) or “all life stages.” It does not have a separate standard for senior dogs.

“It isn’t realistic to define a nutrient profile to meet all senior needs because as pets age, just like people, their calorie needs change,” says Dr. Churchill.  “An individualized vet-directed feeding plan is the best approach.”

When looking for the right food to feed your senior dog, consider the following:

  • Check the WSAVA Global Nutrition guidelines when choosing a “complete and balanced” diet. See also “How to Choose a Dog Food: Factors to Consider.”
  • Monitor protein intake. Dogs commonly need more protein as they age. Check with your vet or a canine nutritionist to see what they recommend for your dog.
  • Have fresh water available at all times and monitor your dog’s intake. No only is good hydration important to overall healthy, a sudden increase in thirst can signal illness. Consult your vet if you notice your dog is drinking more than usual.
  • Feed the correct amount for a lean body condition. A good starting point is WSAVA’s adult dog calorie ranges for an ideal body condition. However, you will need to pay attention to your dog’s weight and overall condition. Her needs may vary significantly from the average and will likely change as she ages.
  • To reduce caloric intake for weight management, seek a lower calorie, higher protein food.
  • Use meal toppers sparingly as overuse can create a nutritional imbalance.

When Is the Best Time to Start Feeding a Dog a Senior Diet?

As with everything else related to canine aging, the right time to switch to a diet designed to support a senior dog depends on the individual dog and her diet.

“When a dog enters what would be the second half of his/her expected lifespan, then they should get a thorough evaluation by their veterinarian,” says Churchill. This includes a physical exam, lab work and a diet evaluation to ensure their current diet is meeting all nutritional needs. “The diet may or may not be labeled ‘senior’ food, but it should be one that matches the individual dog’s needs,” she says.

Monitoring nutrition, ensuring proper exercise and enrichment, and scheduling regular vet visits can create opportunities to positively affect your dog’s aging process. “All in all, helping a dog age gracefully provides so much enjoyment, says Downing. “We just need to be aware, vigilant, and proactive.”

What Is a Double-Coated Dog?

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Double coated dog breeds like this border collie require specialized coat care.
Double-coated dogs, like the Border Collie pictured here, require regular grooming to keep their coats and skin healthy. Credit: Bigandt_Photography | Getty Images

A dog with a double coat essentially has two types of hair: a smoother, protective topcoat and a dense, rough undercoat. Double-coated dog breeds come in all shapes, sizes, and temperaments. There are too many to list all of them, but some of the most popular double-coated dogs include Corgis, Border Collies, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Bernese Mountain Dogs. Regardless of shape and size, one thing they all have in common is shedding.

“Anyone considering getting a double-coated breed should know that there is no one solution to stop shedding,” says Joy Burton, AKC-certified professional dog groomer and co-owner of a Well Groomed franchise location in California. “The shedding is going to happen year-round so prepare yourself by getting all the necessary grooming tools you will need to maintain their coat at home as well as keeping them on a consistent grooming schedule to prevent undercoat buildup and excess shedding.”

Grooming Double-Coated Dogs

Regular grooming is an important part of caring for a double-coated dog. Without a proper grooming routine, the dog’s fur can form tangles and mats that may need to be cut out. If left unattended for long enough, these can become painful and even cause sores or skin damage.

Part of developing a good grooming strategy for your dog is understanding how his coat works. “The topcoat helps repel moisture and dirt while the undercoat works like insulation, protecting the pet from both cold and hot temperatures,” Burton says. “Double coats vary amongst breeds.”

To keep both layers of a double coat in good shape, you’ll want to:

  • Brush your dog three to four times a week to prevent undercoat buildup—and even more so during high-shedding seasons like summer and winter.
  • Use a rubber brush paired with a short bristle slicker brush on short, double coats.
  • Use a medium to long bristle slicker brush, greyhound comb, and undercoat rake on medium- and long-haired double coats.
  • Use a line-brushing technique to catch mats or dead undercoat. To “line-brush” a dog:
    1. Use a brush or comb to separate out a small section of fur.
    2. Mist the section with water or a detangling product (be sure to follow the directions on the label).
    3. Brush the section thoroughly with a pin brush.
    4. Run a comb through the section to ensure there are no tangles hiding.
    5. Move on to a spot a little above or to the side of the first section and repeat the process until the whole dog has been brushed out. It works best to start low and work your way up.
  • Get a deshedding bath at the dog’s regular grooming appointment every four to eight weeks.
  • Unless necessary for medical reasons, never shave a double-coated dog. “Doing so will permanently damage their coat,” Burton says. “It will grow back rough and patchy, dry or very oily, and could even not grow back at all. It also strips away the dog’s ability to cool themselves down in warmer weather and keep themselves warm in colder weather. The grow-back process after a double coat is shaved down can be very irritating and uncomfortable for them.”

Should You Get a Double-Coated Dog?

Many dog breeds have double coats and double coats themselves vary in length, thickness, and care required, so there are a lot of options for people interested in a double-coated dog. If you are thinking about bringing a double-coated dog into the family, the biggest thing to consider when it comes to the coat type is whether you mind shedding and some grooming maintenance.

“I would recommend double-coated breeds to anyone who can commit to the grooming maintenance that is required for this coat type,” says Joy. “I would also recommend them to anyone who lives in a cooler climate. Breeds like Siberian Huskies and Newfoundlands thrive in cooler environments.”

5 Popular Double-Coated Dog Breeds

While there are many double-coated dog breeds out there, here are a few popular examples:

  • Active and intelligent, Pembroke Welsh Corgis are smaller, roughly 30-pound herding dogs with thick, short double coats that shed significantly.
  • Border Collies often top lists of most intelligent dogs with double coats that come in both short and medium lengths. These medium-sized herders are incredibly active and agile working dogs that usually do best in active families.
  • Golden Retrievers are medium-large hunting dogs with a long list of job titles—from family pet to guide dog. Their medium-length double coats come in variations of gold. Known for their generally friendly temperaments, they are also energetic and need regular exercise.
  • German Shepherds have double coats that come in a variety of lengths and colors. Though technically herders, they’re all-around hard workers, sometimes finding jobs in law enforcement. They’re typically intelligent, protective, and loyal to their families, but do need plenty of exercise and often prefer to have a job.
  • Bernese Mountain Dogs are a larger working breed with a long, thick double coat. They frequently have a more relaxed disposition and, although they are workers, their exercise requirements tend to be more on the moderate side.

How To Train an Aggressive Dog

How to train an aggressive dog? Choose the right trainer or veterinary behavioris.
In most cases, the right training can make a big difference for dogs exhibiting aggressive behaviors. Credit: sae1010 | Getty Images

Aggression is a very common behavioral problem in pet dogs which many dog guardians struggle with. An aggressive dog can be dangerous and a liability in the event she hurts a person or another animal. The good news is that aggressive behavior can be successfully modified using a combination of good management and humane behavior modification techniques. Let’s explore why dogs show aggression and how to train an aggressive dog safely and effectively.

Why Do Dogs Show Aggression?

Aggression is a normal behavior for dogs and part of their species-specific behavioral repertoire. However, it can become problematic when shown in ways that put the safely and wellbeing of people or other animals at risk. Common reasons that dogs show aggression include:

  • Fear or anxiety: Aggression can be a symptom of underlying fear or anxiety triggered by a person, another animal, or a situation. In this case, aggression is used to increase the distance between the aggressing dog and a perceived threat.
  • Pain or illness: When a dog is unwell or in pain, they often have a reduced tolerance to things that wouldn’t otherwise bother them. This can result in an increased likelihood of aggression.
  • Territorial instincts: Despite being domesticated, dogs retain some instincts in common with their wild living relatives including the instinct to protect their territory (home). This can manifest in aggressive behavior (e.g. barking, growling and lunging) toward passers-by, other animals, or visitors to the home.
  • Resource guarding: Some dogs use aggression to gain or maintain access to high-value resources. This behavior often develops when a dog had to compete for access to resources (such as food) as a puppy or constantly had her resources taken away from her.
  • Social dynamics: Aggression can occur during interactions with other animals, particularly following new introductions, due to poor socialization or when relationship parameters are first being established.

How To Train an Aggressive Dog

Understanding the root cause of the aggression is essential to allow you to train an aggressive dog safely and effectively. Before you begin to train your aggressive dog, take the following steps:

  • Pinpoint the triggers that cause your dog to show aggression. Refer to the list above for assistance.
  • Identify the severity of the aggression in terms of its frequency and intensity. Is it mild, moderate, or severe? Does it happen frequently and has it persisted for a long time? Has the dog caused a serious injury to a person or another dog? If so, the aggression might be on the moderate to severe end of the scale.
  • Make an appointment with your veterinarian to identify and address or rule out a health or medical issue that could be causing or contributing to the aggression.
  • Use safety tools such as a muzzle, leash, crate, and baby gates to prevent harm to others and avoid, as much as possible, situations that trigger aggressive behavior.
  • Work with a professional trainer or behaviorist who specializes in aggression to ensure the right behavior modification practices are utilized.

When it comes to training an aggressive dog to reduce aggressive behavior the most common and effect strategies include:

  • Desensitization and Counterconditioning: This involves gradually exposing the dog to the trigger at a level that is well tolerated by the dog and does not elicit an aggressive response. At the same time, counterconditioning is implemented and involves pairing the trigger with positive experiences (high value food works best) to change the dog’s emotional response from a negative to a positive association.
  • Avoid using punishment: Using positive punishment can increase fear and escalate aggression (Arhant et al., 2010). Research shows that aversive training techniques jeopardize the mental and physical health of dogs (Ziv, 2017). Instead, positive reinforcement should be used.
  • Teaching an alternative behavior: Once the dog starts to anticipate the treats during this training you can ask for a behavior, such as sit or look, and reinforce that with the treats in the presence of the trigger.
  • Consistency, repetition, and patience: Training an aggressive dog takes time and progress is typically not linear. This means there will be good days and some bad days. The key is to be consistent and patient and work at your dog’s pace.
  • Regular monitoring and adjustment if needed: It’s important to monitor progress and keep in touch with your trainer or behaviorist so they can adjust the training plan if needed. Celebrate any improvements you make with your dog.

How To Manage and Handle an Aggressive Dog

Good management and handling of an aggressive dog will help to prevent bite injuries to people and other animals. The aim is to avoid or at least limit things that trigger the aggression and to handle the dog in a way that keeps you, other people, and other animals safe. This could include strategies such as always walking the dog on lead when outside the home, utilizing a muzzle, and walking the dog in areas where they are less likely to encounter triggers for aggression. For dogs who show aggression towards visitors to the home, it’s important to physically separate the dog from visitors at all times.

When it comes to handling, avoid attempting to physically move your dog, such as pulling them by the collar, as this will likely lead to an aggressive response. Instead, use positive reinforcement such as high value treats or their meal to encourage them to follow you if you need to move them from A to B.

Training an aggressive dog involves time, consistency, repetition, good management and a kind, positive reinforcement-based training approach. Working with a professional is highly recommended when it comes to training aggressive dogs due to the risk they pose to others.

How To Choose the Right Trainer or Behaviorist

Choosing the right trainer or behaviorist is crucial to getting the help you need to understand and learn how to train your aggressive dog safely and effectively. Due to a lack of regulation within the industry, anyone can refer to themselves as a dog trainer or behaviorist, even if they lack relevant qualifications. Unfortunately, this often results in unsuspecting owners engaging unqualified trainers or behaviorists who use outdated or harmful training techniques, such as shock collars, prong collars, and other punitive methods, which can make the aggression worse.

This means it’s up to dog guardians to do their due diligence and research local trainers and behaviorists to find one who is reputable, knowledgeable, and experienced teaching people how to train an aggressive dog.

Look for a dog trainer with formal dog training qualifications which prioritize positive reinforcement and humane techniques. There are several organizations in the United States that offer dog training courses utilizing the latest scientific understanding of dog behavior, learning, and welfare. These include the Karen Pryor Academy, the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT) and the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC).

Animal Behaviorists have a master’s or Ph.D. level university qualification in animal behavior whereas veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians with further qualifications in animal behavior.

What is their training philosophy?

Look for trainers who have a modern training philosophy that prioritizes the use of humane and welfare friendly positive reinforcement techniques while avoiding harsh punishment.

Professional Memberships and Certifications

Reputable dog trainers and behaviorists are usually members of professional organizations and must adhere to the code of ethics, vision and mission set out by the organization.

There are also professional certification programs for animal and veterinary behaviorists such as the Animal Behavior Society’s Board Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist Certification. These programs require a high level of academic education, knowledge of behavior, and extensive practical experience.

If you’re struggling with aggressive behavior in your dog, please reach out to a suitable professional. The right training for aggressive dogs can make the world of difference to them and the people that love them.


References

Arhant, C., Bubna-Littitz, H., Bartels, A., Futschik, A., & Troxler, J. (2010). Behaviour of smaller and larger dogs: Effects of training methods, inconsistency of owner behaviour and level of engagement in activities with the dog. Applied Animal Behaviour Science123(3-4), 131-142.

Ziv, G. (2017). The effects of using aversive training methods in dogs—A review. Journal of veterinary behavior19, 50-60.

PHOTO: Caption: In most cases, the right training can make a big difference for dogs exhibiting aggressive behaviors. Credit: sae1010 | Getty Images

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Dog Park Rules

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Dog park rules are often listed on signs like the one displayed here.
A list of rules for the dog park in Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina. Photo courtesy of Helene Goldberger.

A friend recently posted a photograph she took at a dog park she visited in Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina. Pictured was a sign, posted at the entrance of the dog park, which listed the rules that visitors were supposed to observe at the park. It was a very good list, full of common-sense cautions, and aimed at asking people to observe their dogs at all times and take full responsibility for their dogs’ behavior.

I am a fan of dog-park rules, and I, too, have taken pictures of the posted rules at every dog park I have ever visited, in an effort to see how different communities have responded to the people and dogs there. This sign covered the most important points, I think, although I would debate some of them. (I’ve never seen what I would consider a perfect list of rules; there may be no such thing!)

  • All dogs and visitors use the park at their own risk; property owners are not responsible for any injury caused by dogs or facility structure.
  • Owners are legally responsible for the behavior of their dog(s) at all times.
  • No dogs without people. No people without dogs. No more than two dogs per person.
  • Dogs must be leashed while entering and exiting the dog run. (Note: Some parks install a small “airlock” with gates at either end where you can enter with your leashed dog, close the gate behind you, and remove his leash before opening the gate at the other end to let your now-unleashed dog into the park. Upon exiting, you can open the interior gate, enter the airlock with your dog, close it behind you, and put his leash before exiting. This helps you leash and unleash your dog without the distractions of other dogs—and prevents the escape of any dogs who try to slip in or out while you are entering or exiting.)
  • Handlers must carry a leash and remain inside the fenced area within view and voice control of their dogs at all times.
  • No spike, prong, or pinch collars. However, your dog must wear a collar or harness in the run at all times. (I strongly prefer dogs to play “naked,” to prevent any potential entanglements from dogs grabbing each other’s gear, but I appreciate the necessity of having a “handle” with which to grab a dog in case of a fight.)
  • Dog handlers must be at least 16 years of age.
  • Acts of aggression against other dogs or people are prohibited. Dogs must be removed if uncontrollable.
  • If your dog gets in a fight, exchange contact information and leave the dog run. You are responsible for any injury caused by your dog to dogs or people.
  • No dogs in heat. Closely monitor un-neutered males. (I would argue that one must closely monitor all the dogs, regardless of neutering status, but I think they are referencing the potential for actual mating here. Some parks restrict intact dogs from playing, which I think goes too far.)
  • No food or dog chews are allowed in the dog run. (Again, I like to have treats on my person for reinforcing my dogs for recalls or checking in with me, but I recognize that some dogs in the park may be resource-guarders and become aggressive around food. I can follow the park’s rule, or enter with food only when no other dogs are present.)
  • Dogs must be at least four months old, licensed, and have up-to-date vaccinations, including rabies. (I agree with the age requirements; dog parks are not safe for inexperienced and incompletely immunized puppies. And of course, I agree with the laws requiring rabies vaccines—and licenses are largely about making sure that dogs rabies’ vaccines are current. But there are lots of different definitions of “up-to-date vaccinations;” that one is a quagmire.)
  • Clean up after your dog. No littering. Place all waste in proper recepticles.
  • Watch your dogs at all times. Discourage barking and digging. If your dog digs a hole, fill it in.
  • Bring children at your own risk. Children under 13 must be accompanied by an adult. (I can’t tell you how many small children I have seen get hurt at dog parks, by getting knocked over and even humped! The sight of small kids being carried or even on a parent’s shoulders makes some dogs jump on the parent in an effort to reach the child. I say small kids have no business being in dog parks at all. )

The big catch here, of course, is how you can get people to follow the rules. Few of us enjoy being confrontational or having to self-police our recreational spaces to ensure our dogs’ safety—but one absolutely must! The bad news is that there are always some people who are too arrogant or self-centered to take advice or instruction from others, and in those cases, I just leave the dog park (and recommend that others who are concerned do, too).

Note that I am only very rarely in a dog park. I am extremely fortunate to have both limitless open space where dogs are allowed to be off-leash and dogs with very good recall (which I practice daily and reward generously). But occasionally I foster an energetic dog who needs running and doesn’t have enough of a relationship with me to count on their emerging recall skills; then I will look for a large fenced park at a time of day where there are few (if any) other dogs present so the dog can really burn off some excess energy. And I’m grateful when there are rules and a rule-following culture in place to prevent injuries and traumatic events.

Here is one of my favorite dog-park signs (taken at a park that I enjoy in Grass Valley, California):

Dog park rules may be enforced by local authorities.
Photo courtesy of Nancy Kerns.

What dog-park rules not covered here are important to you?

Why Is My Dog’s Tail Down?

A dogs tail down indicates fear, nervousness or stress.
When combined with worried-looking, round eyes, tucked-back ears, and tentative movement, a downward-angled tail usually indicates that a dog is nervous or frightened. Credit: imv | Getty Images

If your dog’s tail is down and he’s not acting like his normal self, something is likely bothering him either emotionally or physically—or both.

What It Means When a Dog’s Tail is Down

When a dog’s tail is down, it may signal:

  • Nervousness
  • Fear
  • Uncertainty
  • Stress
  • Appeasement/submissiveness
  • Not feeling well

When trying to decode what a tucked tail might mean, first consider how your dog usually holds his tail. Some breeds, like Labradors, Golden Retrievers and German Shepherd Dogs, naturally carry their tails in a downward position. However, if your dog’s tail is down when it’s normally upright—or his typically downward-sweeping tail is tucked up under his rump—it’s time to pay attention. When trying to understand the cause of a downward tail, look at both the whole body and the situation.

Is the Dog with His Tail Down Acting Weird?

Determining context can go a long way toward helping your pooch feel better. Is he afraid of something? If so, remove “the thing” or help him get away from the situation and see if he goes back to being his happy-go-lucky self.

Other signs you might see when the dog with his tail down is afraid include:

  • Cowering/shrunken appearance
  • Ears down
  • Lowered eyes
  • Whale eye
  • Looking away/Head turn
  • Lip licking
  • Yawning
  • Closed/tight mouth

An often-misinterpreted appeasement gesture is the squinty-eyed, toothy “smile.” This is actually a gesture of submission, sometimes paired with a downward or even tucked tail. So is rolling over when combined with other signs. In this situation, resist the urge to rub your dog’s belly. He is asking to be left alone, not for tummy time! These gestures can indicate appeasement, so what your dog is saying is “please go away, I’m uncomfortable.” Submissive urination happens sometimes too. Again, determine the context and arrange your dog’s environment so he’s more comfortable. If this behavior persists, reach out to a fear-free trainer.

Is the Dog with HisTail Down Sick?

Another possibility for a dog holding his tail down or tucked might be that something is physically wrong, either with the dog’s tail (i.e. sprained tail, limber tail syndrome, etc.) or something else. Even if the tail itself is fine, dogs often tuck their tails if they are uncomfortable or in pain. Look for additional signs your dog might not be feeling well such as vomiting, diarrhea, hiding, lack of appetite, or lethargy. If it seems like something is wrong—or if you’re not sure—take him to a vet for a health check.

When it comes to a dog with his tail down, watch closely and pay attention to what he is trying to tell you. Dogs say a lot with their tails. To learn more check out “Dog Tail Signs: What’s Your Dog’s Tail Language?”

What is Flyball?

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Flyball is a canine sport that engages your dog's instinct for fetch and challenges their athleticism.
To compete in flyball, dogs must be able to clear hurdles, turn on a box, retrieve a ball, and return to the start line. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

Some dogs would play fetch all day long if they could. Flyball takes the game of fetch to the next level by adding hurdles, a box to turn on, and other dogs racing at the same time. If your dog has a lot of toy drive, loves to retrieve, and can work around other dogs in fast-paced environments, flyball is the canine sport to try out.

Flyball is a relay race for dogs, where teams compete against each other for title points and bragging rights. Dogs are released from the start line, where they dash over four hurdles to a flyball box. They then turn by running up onto the slanted side of the flyball box, which releases a ball from its holding spot in the corner. The dog needs to catch the ball as it’s released and run back over the four hurdles to the start line. The next dog is released behind the start line while the first dog is on its way back, and ideally the two dogs pass each other nose to nose at the start line.

How To Get Your Dog Started in Flyball

According to Tonia Tamburini, flyball competitor, instructor, and team captain of the Denver Speed Demons flyball club, any dog can learn to play flyball. “We have a wide variety of breeds and sizes that play,” she says. “Athletic, fast dogs with a lot of drive tend to be the fastest at flyball, and dogs that understand the game of fetch can usually pick up the game faster than ones that are not interested in fetching a ball.”

If your dog seems to fit the bill, there are a few steps you should take to get them involved in flyball:

  1. Find a Flyball Club

According to Lydia Goggin, owner and trainer at Be Right Back Flyball Club in Northern Colorado, folks new to the sport should first look for a flyball club in their area.

“A good place to start is the North American Flyball Association (NAFA) or United Flyball League International (U-FLI) website and look for the teams listed in your area,” she recommends. “You can also find lists of tournaments in your area and talk to teams directly. NAFA also has Regional Directors who can help you find a club in your area and I believe U-FLI has a similar position.”

  1. Start Training

The foundation training for flyball is similar to agility in that it requires a number of specific, proofed skills in order to play. Tamburini says that toy/tug drive, recall, box turns, and retrieving are the four main foundational behaviors your dog needs to learn when starting flyball training. Here’s why each one is important:

  • Toy/Tug drive: Tamburini says that building strong toy/tug drive “will make your dog faster and will help reward the dog for playing correctly.”
  • Recall: “Having consistent and fast recalls is an important part of the game”, Tamburini says. “After a dog is consistent alone, we practice recalls while racing other dogs which they have to ignore.”
  • Box turn: “Dogs need to learn how to turn and push themselves off of the box with all four paws while also getting the ball,” Tamburini says. “They need to master the shape of the turn first, then we add the ball.”
  • Retrieve: Tamburini says that dogs need to learn how to retrieve a “still” ball that is placed. This can be a change for dogs who are only used to retrieving balls or other objects that are thrown.
  1. Get on a Team

Since Flyball is a team sport, you’ll need a team of four dogs to compete in trials. Don’t worry about finding your own team though, getting involved in a club will point you in the right direction.

“Each club fields their own teams, so whichever club you are training with in your area will help put you on a team to play with,” says Goggin. “There are no height or speed requirements, and most clubs can accommodate faster or slower dogs. Small dogs are actually very nice to have because the smallest/shortest dog on the team sets the jump height!”

Don’t worry if your dog isn’t the fastest or most impressive on the team. “People love to watch all different types of dogs run and you will often see the silliest or slowest dogs being the crowd favorites,” says Goggin.

How Long Does Flyball Training Take?

Like agility, there can be a big learning curve when you first get started in flyball. Goggin tells folks “to expect about a year of training before being tournament ready (some dogs will take more time and some will take less).”

She recommends working on recall, basic obedience, and impulse control skills to give dogs a step up in training flyball skills. Tamburini recommends working on these foundational skills at home where possible. “Working on foundations at home will speed training up so you can focus on team skills at class/practice.”

Tamburini agrees with Goggin that getting competition-ready for flyball can take quite a while. “I’ve seen dogs that are competition ready within a year of starting training and I’ve seen others that take years and years,” she says. “There are many, many components that a dog has to master before being able to compete such as going over all of the jumps consistently, bringing the ball all the way back over the start line, passing dogs nose to nose, ignoring the dogs in the other lane, coming back to the handler consistently. It is really common for a dog to struggle with one of those components and it takes time to get them ready.”

If you’re interested in getting started in flyball, know that it will likely require months of consistent training before you’re truly ready to compete. If you want to try out a sport that takes less upfront training time, consider FastCAT or rally.

How to Find and Enter Flyball Events

Flyball includes obstacles like box turnes.
Dogs participating in flyball learn how to complete box turns, rebounding off of the slanted side of the flyball box while grabbing a ball. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

Both of the two main flyball associations (NAFA and U-FLI) have sections on their websites to search for upcoming tournaments based on location. U-FLI allows you to search by state, while NAFA requires you to search by region. NAFA regions may contain just one state, or up to eight states depending on location. Dogs need to be 15 months or older to compete in flyball tournaments.

Unlike most other dog sports, Flyball entries typically need to be made as a team. Your team needs to be registered with the hosting organization of the tournament you’re interested in before you can enter. Some organizations offer singles or pairs competitions, but the bulk of flyball tournaments are focused on team events.

How to Earn Flyball Titles

Tamburini explains that teams are selected to compete against each other based on speed. “Teams of 4-6 dogs are entered with seed times for a tournament so teams are racing other teams with a similar speed in a division.”

As you compete against these teams, your team earns points towards winning their division. You can also accumulate titles if you compete in NAFA sanctioned tournaments. Goggin explains that you can accumulate points towards titles by completing team races, and the cleaner the run, the more points you get. “If all four dogs run under 24 seconds without human or dog faults they each get the maximum available points,” she says. “Fewer points are awarded for each clean heat run over 24 seconds, but under 32 seconds.”

Dogs that fault during their run must then rerun, and the first team with four dogs that all run clean will win. “Rerunning the dog adds to their overall time,” says Tamburini. “Common faults include fast starting or early passing, dropped balls, going around the jumps or crossing into the other lane.”

Should I Try Flyball With My Dog?

Hurdles are part of the obstacles a dog must overcome on a flyball course.
A flyball lane has four hurdles that each dog must clear as they run to the box and as they return to the start line. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

If you’re interested in trying out flyball, Goggin recommends stopping by a local tournament and talking to competitors to learn more. “Since flyball is a team sport, playing with other people that have the same goals and values that you do is so important,” she says. “We are all here to have fun with our dogs and it’s easier to do that if you’re having fun with the people you’re with!”

Goggin also recommends shopping around for a club, so don’t feel pressured to join the first club you come in contact with. “Most people will support trying to find the right fit,” she says.

Tamburini recommends that folks who get involved with flyball be prepared to work as a team. “Be ready to help your teammates train their dog, help your team with various jobs, be willing to compromise and do what’s best for the group,” she says.

How To Have a Dog in an Apartment

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A happy dog living in an apartment.
If you want to keep a high-energy dog happy in an apartment, you will need to spend extra time making sure they get enough exercise and enrichment. Credit: Capuski | Getty Images

Taking care of a dog in an apartment can be complicated. Apartments often have limited outdoor areas for dogs to run in, less indoor space to play or train in, and a plethora of human and canine neighbors to try to get along with. That said, don’t give up hope! Most types and sizes of dogs can do well in apartments provided they get the right amount of exercise and mental stimulation.

That said, there are some things to consider when bringing a puppy to live with you in an apartment or moving to an apartment with a dog.

What Kinds of Dogs Do Well in Apartments?

While apartment living is possible with most dogs, it is significantly easier to find a place to rent and live there comfortably with a smaller, lower-energy dog. Limited space is one of the biggest challenges for dogs living in apartments. The more space the dog needs, the harder it is to get that need met in a small rental, especially when the weather gets bad.

It’s also worth noting that dogs who are comfortable with people and other dogs tend to be a better fit for apartment life. In addition to much more human activity than living in a house, dog-friendly apartment complexes often have a lot of dogs in residence. While socialization and training can help, having doors opening, people walking by at all hours, and strange dogs everywhere can be hard on dogs who are reactive or those who prefer to have some space between themselves and the neighbors.

If you are looking to get a specific breed of dog, do your research. Small dogs aren’t always low-energy—just ask anyone with a Jack Russell. If you’re looking to adopt a dog, consider an older dog. Not only will the dog be done growing, you’ll also have a better sense of whether they will be the right fit for apartment life.

How to Have a Big Dog in an Apartment

Large, high-energy dogs need a lot more from their owners when confined to a small apartment, mostly due to their exercise needs. While a tiny Toy Poodle may be able to get enough exercise running laps around the kitchen island, that probably won’t work for a Belgian Malinois. If you have a big dog, plan for multiple daily walks, keeping in mind that you will never be able to skip the walk in favor of letting the dog out in the yard to run.

In addition to walks, it helps to have some strategies for exercising your dog indoors. These can include activities like hallway walks, puppy push-ups, and (if space and non-skid floors allow) treat chasing. For more on how to exercise and play with your dog inside, see “How To Entertain Your Dog at Home.”

Becoming a member of a club or signing up for classes that focus on dog sports such as agility, flyball, or dock diving can also be a good way to keep a big dog happy in an apartment. Not only will these activities keep your dog well-exercised, they can also be a fun, mentally stimulating outlet for you both. As always, check with your vet to be sure your dog is healthy enough to participate before getting started.

If you have a dog who likes to socialize and can find a doggy daycare you trust, consider dropping your dog off for playtime several days a week to help meet her exercise needs. Good daycares usually keep group sizes small, provide a variety of activities mixed with rest times, and emphasize matching dogs with the right playmates.

While not specific to living in an apartment, keep in mind that dogs—big and small, high- or low-energy—need regular mental stimulation. Bored dogs are far more likely to develop unwanted behaviors, which can be particularly difficult in an apartment since excessive barking or destructive chewing can become big issues with fellow tenants and landlords. For some tips on providing good mental stimulation for your dog, check out “The Importance of Mental Stimulation for Dogs.”

Common Dog Restrictions When Renting An Apartment

When it comes to renting an apartment with a dog, remember that even places which allow pets typically have restrictions. These can include:

  • Weight: Rental properties regularly have pet weight restrictions with 50- and 25-pound limits being the most common. While rental agents probably won’t pull out a scale to weigh your dog, they will check the dog’s vet records to verify her size.
  • Number of pets: Most rentals that allow pets have a two-pet limit. Having more than two can make it much more difficult to find an apartment.
  • Age: Though less common than other restrictions on this list, rental properties occasionally won’t accept dogs under 1 year old.
  • Unvaccinated pets: Rental apartments often have vaccination requirements for any dog living on the property. If your dog cannot receive a required vaccine—even for a medically significant reason such as an allergy—or if you prefer to do vaccine titer tests rather than having your dog vaccinated on a set schedule, you may run into trouble when trying to rent.
  • Breed: Some rentals, particularly larger, company-managed apartment complexes, have breed restrictions. These restrictions, which seem to stem from public perception and perceived liability, usually target so-called “aggressive” breeds such as Pit Bulls and Rottweilers. This can extend to banning any dog that appears to be a mix of a banned breed.

One potential trouble spot when living in an apartment that has these types of restrictions can be getting a puppy whose genetic background is unclear. If one or both of a puppy’s parents are a mystery, it can be very hard to tell how big she might get or what she will look like as an adult—even with DNA testing. A dog who was allowed in an apartment as a puppy might become a lease violation when she grows bigger than expected or starts to resemble a banned breed. Some landlords might be understanding and grant an exemption, but they are not required to do so. Lease terms can be unforgiving—and very difficult to appeal. If you are found to have a pet that is not in compliance with the lease terms, you could be required to remove the animal from the property within 24 hours of notification.

In short, it is important to thoroughly read and understand the pet policy at any rental property you are considering moving into with a dog. Get a copy in writing and check that the lease terms match both the written pet policy and what you have been told. Once signed, the lease and any addendums attached to it are a legally binding agreement. It doesn’t matter if a leasing agent or landlord told you “Oh, we never enforce that clause. It’ll be fine.” They can still enforce anything you agreed to when you signed.

Additional Expenses When Renting with a Dog

Having a dog in an apartment can come with extra expenses. Many apartments require a pet deposit in addition to the security deposit. The amount varies but is usually at least $300. Monthly “pet rent” fees are also common. These can range from as little as $10 a month per pet to over $100 a month per pet. When moving out of an apartment, some rentals require an extra cleaning fee. This fee is typically assessed for any unit where pets lived and isn’t based on damage.

If your dog does damage anything while you are living in an apartment, assume you will have to pay for it. That said, some renter’s insurance will cover pet damage, so be sure to check your policy before paying out of pocket.

Special Considerations for Living in an Apartment with a Dog

There are a few final things to note before moving into an apartment with a dog:

  • Training is important for any dog, but it is perhaps even more so for dogs living in an apartment. Outside of apartment living, very few circumstances expose dogs to so many people and pets living so close. Good manners not only make apartment life easier for you and your dog, they also make it safer for the dog.
  • As discussed in “How To Potty Train a Puppy in an Apartment,” house training a dog in a big apartment complex can be a challenge due to the distance between the living space and the outdoors. Make a plan and get any necessary supplies before the dog arrives.
  • Expect the company or landlord to require a copy of your dog’s vet records. You may also be asked to verify your dog’s behavioral history. Be honest. If it is discovered that inaccurate information was given, you could be asked to remove the dog from the property immediately.
  • Consider getting your dog’s AKC Canine Good Citizen (CGC) title. Some rental properties  give discounts to dogs with a CGC.
  • Crate training is pretty much essential for a dog living in an apartment. It’s common for maintenance workers to need to enter the unit to do regular upkeep or respond to resident requests. Even if you can be home every time someone needs to enter the apartment, it is still easier and safer if your dog can wait comfortably in her crate while people (who may not be comfortable with dogs) are in and out.

While the requirements associated with having a dog in an apartment may sound daunting, it’s not all bad! Many dog-friendly rentals offer great amenities such as on-site dog washrooms, dog parks, and pet-centered community events. As with any other living arrangement, the trick is to understand the challenges and assess what your dog needs to be happy, safe, and healthy.

Do Dogs Grieve the Loss of Another Dog?

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How do you help a dog cope with the loss of another dog?
Much like with humans, symptoms of grief in dogs cand include loss of appetite, disrupted sleep, lethargy, avoiding play, and clinginess. Credit: jpfotograaf | Getty Images

Every one of us who has lived with and loved a dog knows the pain of grief when we lose them. But what about the other dogs in our home? Do they grieve the loss as well?

Answering this question isn’t as simple as it sounds. Of course! you may say, explaining how you’ve seen it for yourself when you’ve lost one dog and another was left behind. Or you might be someone who rolls your eyes at the idea that dogs—or any beings other than humans—are capable of such a complex emotion as grief. Even scholars are divided: some insist that most animals have emotions; others argue that emotions are uniquely human; and still others fall somewhere between the two positions.[i]

 

 

How Do You Help a Dog Cope with the Loss of Another Dog?

There is no set timeline for how long your dog will grieve the loss of a close companion. As with humans who are grieving, you may find that some days your dog seems to be handling it well while other days she struggles. However, there are some things you can do to help your dog cope with grief:

  1. Keep to an established routine. It can be difficult to maintain a routine after a loss, but keeping a consistent schedule can help a grieving dog feel safe.
  2. Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise. Getting up and moving—even if it’s just a short, gentle walk—can encourage a dog who is grieving to reengage with the world. It can also help reduce lethargy, stimulate appetite, and encourage normal sleep patterns.
  3. Spend time with your dog. One of the biggest things you can do to help a grieving dog is to spend time with her. This can be anything from sitting quietly in the same room with her to making time for extra play sessions. That said, don’t force it or overwhelm her with attention. If the dog leaves when you sit down next to her, it’s okay. Give her some space and try again later.
  4. Set up visits with friends. If your dog likes to socialize, extra playdates with dog friends may be just what she needs to help her through the grieving process. However, if your dog avoids interacting, shows signs of anxiety, or acts grumpy or aggressive towards other dogs, stop the playdate right away and try something else instead.
  5. Training can help. Spending some time each day on training can help engage a grieving dog’s mind. It doesn’t have to be anything difficult. Celebrate small successes, even if the dog’s performance isn’t as sharp as usual. If your dog seems up for it, add in some new tricks, games, or activities.

It’s important to remember that there is no way to force your dog through the grieving process. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you about what they need. If you’re out of ideas or are concerned for your dog’s well-being, don’t hesitate to reach out to a vet or behaviorist for advice. – Kate O’Connor

Historical Perspectives On Animal Emotions

For most of the last two thousand years, while the lay public wholeheartedly believed that animals had emotions, the majority of Western philosophers scoffed at the idea, insisting that animals have nothing more than instincts that require no conscious thought. Charles Darwin strongly differed with this approach, arguing that emotions are found not just in humans, but across all species.[ii]  This was in keeping with the Enlightenment of the 17th and 18th centuries, when philosophers began to put forth the idea that animals possessed reason and could suffer.[iii]  By the end of the 19th century, even the most unyielding scientists were accepting the concept of sentience, the capacity of humans and animals to experience feelings and awareness.

That belief was all but extinguished by the emergence of Behaviorism in the early 20th century. Its adherents insisted that science needed to put an end to using terms like sensation, perception, desire, and emotion, since they had no objective reality.[iv]  For much of that century, Behaviorism reigned, along with the view that false science was responsible for the mistaken belief that animals had emotions.

Then came the mid-1980s when many scientists, spurred by discoveries from pioneering animal behaviorists, along with anecdotes from long-term field studies by researchers like Jane Goodall, developed a renewed interest in animal sentience and how animals feel.[v],[vi]  That interest has continued to this day.

New Attitudes Toward Animal Grief

Which brings us back to the question of grief, and whether animals—dogs, specifically—are capable of feeling grief after the loss of another dog. Recent studies say yes, and that’s backed up by the experiences of countless dog caretakers. While not even the most astute scientist or animal behaviorist can know with absolute certainty what dogs know and feel about death and dying, researchers have come closer than ever before to being able to say with some degree of certainty that dogs do mourn the death of another dog in their household.

Anthropologist and author of How Animals Grieve, Dr. Barbara J. King, maintains that even though humans have a rational awareness of death and its finality, the ability to mourn doesn’t depend upon that understanding. “Our own ways of mourning may be unique,” she says, “but the human capacity to grieve deeply is something we share with other animals.”[vii]

What Studies Reveal About Grief in Dogs

To understand animal grief, researchers generally impose two preconditions: first, that the animals actively choose to spend time together; and second, when one animal dies, the survivor’s normal behaviors change, sometimes drastically, and sometimes to the point of death.[viii]  In 2022, a team of Italian researchers completed a years-long study on these kinds of changes, and came to the conclusion that the emotional bonds dogs form with humans often extend to other animals in their household, and that the death of a companion dog can result in behaviors that would typically be identified as grief and mourning.

Among the dog caretakers in the study, 86 percent observed negative changes in the surviving dog’s behavior; more than a third said the changes lasted between two and six months, and a quarter reported that they lasted longer than six months.[ix] The study rejected the theory that the caretaker’s own grief was simply being reflected onto the surviving dog, and determined that the changes in the dog’s conduct were genuine. Interestingly, researchers also found that what mattered most in terms of the degree of grief was not how long the two dogs had lived together, but the strength of their bond.[x]

When one dog in the household dies, the surviving dog may not understand that the separation is permanent, but they clearly feel the loss…which we know by observing their behavior. In 1996, the ASPCA conducted the Companion Animal Mourning Project, which found that when a dog’s companion dies, two thirds of surviving dogs showed a number of behavioral shifts, including appetite loss, sleep disruption, lethargy, increased vocalizing, avoiding play, clinginess, disorientation, and in extreme cases, wasting away.[xi]  Many of these behaviors are not unlike human mourning over the loss of a loved one.

The Nature of Grief in Dogs

Yet there remains a major problem hindering investigations into animal emotions: in the absence of a Vulcan mind probe, animal minds, just like the minds of our fellow human beings, are essentially private and unknowable, especially so because animals can’t tell us how they’re feeling. This adds fuel to the fire laid by old-school scientists who reject any theory that ventures into the territory of animal feelings. Renowned biologist and behavioral ecologist Marc Bekoff says that even if one day we discover that a dog’s brain activity is similar to a human’s when that person reports being happy or sorrowful, “some skeptics hold tightly to the view that it is impossible to know what animals are truly feeling, and that therefore these studies are fruitless.” He suggests that one reason for this intractable unwillingness to study animal emotions is because these researchers fear being labeled “soft” and “nonscientific.”[xii]

Bekoff and others believe that we need to consider not just empirical data, but also anecdotal evidence, like that provided by dog caretakers when they observe the apparently-grieving actions of their dogs after the loss of a companion dog. They argue that caretakers provide consistently reliable and accurate information about and interpretation of their animal’s behavior, evidence that simply wouldn’t be available to an outside observer in a laboratory setting.[xiii],[xiv],[xv]

“Even if joy and grief in dogs is not the same as joy and grief in chimpanzees, elephants, or humans, this does not mean that there is no such thing as dog joy or dog grief,” says Bekoff.[xvi] As heartbreaking as it is to see our beloved companions go through the painful process of grief, by recognizing that grief we can help them heal and cope—and perhaps ease our own grief as well.

In the end, we’re confronted with the question, What is the nature of grief? We may as well ask, What is the nature of love? since the two are so inextricably intertwined. As Barbara King reflects in How Animals Grieve, “What stands out…is not the hypotheses of human uniqueness, but the discovery that other animals do grieve, and that they grieve because they have loved.”[xvii]


[i] de Vere, Amber J. and Kuczaj, Stan A. II. “Where are we in the study of animal emotions?” Wiley Interdisciplinary Reviews: Cognitive Science. 2016. Accessed through ResearchGate. https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Amber-De-Vere/publication/ 304250629_Where_are_we_in_the_study_of_animal_emotions/links/5b2bc122a6fdcc8506b7118d/

[ii] Ekman, Paul. “Darwin’s contributions to our understanding of emotional expressions.” Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Dec 12, 2009; 364(1535):3449–3451. Accessed through National Library of Medicine PubMed. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2781895/

[iii] Duncan, Ian J.H. “Animal Welfare: A Brief History.” La Fondation Driot Animal: Éthique & Sciences. (Proceedings: Animal Welfare: from Science to Law). https://www.fondation-droit-animal.org/proceedings-aw/animal-welfare-a-brief-history

[iv] Katsnelson, Alla. “How do we know what emotions animals feel?” Science News April 8, 2022 https://www.sciencenews.org/article/animal-emotion-behavior-welfare-feelings

[v] Duncan, Ian J.H. “The changing concept of animal sentience.” Applied Animal Behaviour Science Volume 100, Issues 1–2, October 2006. Accessed through Science Direct. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0168159106001110

[vi] Rowan, Andrew N., et al. “Animal sentience: history, science, and politics.” Animal Sentience 31(1). May 12, 2022. Accessed through WellBeing International. https://www.wellbeingintlstudiesrepository.org/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1697&context=animsent

[vii] King, Barbara J. “Humans Are Not the Only Creatures Who Mourn.” Scientific American. Sept 1, 2015. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/humans-are-not-the-only-creatures-who-mourn/

[viii] ibid

[ix] Coren, Stanley, Ph.D. “Do Dogs Grieve the Loss of a Canine Housemate?” Psychology Today. March 1, 2022. Reporting on study noted in endnote 10.

[x] Uccheddu, Stefania; Ronconi, Lucia, et al. “Domestic dogs (Canis familiaris) grieve over the loss of a conspecific.” Scientific Reports 12, article number 1920. February 24, 2022. Accessed through Nature. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-022-05669-y#citeas

[xi] Hunter, Tammy, DVM; Llera, Ryan, BSc, DVM; Buzhardt, Lynn, DVM. “Do Dogs Mourn?” VCA Animal Hospitals. No date. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/do-dogs-mourn

[xii] Bekoff, Mark. “Animal Emotions: Exploring Passionate Natures: Current interdisciplinary research provides compelling evidence that many animals experience such emotions as joy, fear, love, despair, and grief—we are not alone.” BioScience, Volume 50, Issue 10. October 2000.Accessed through Oxford Academic Journals. https://academic.oup.com/bioscience/article/50/10/861/233998

[xiii] Martens, Pimm; Enders-Slegers, Marie-José; and Walker, Jessica K.  “The Emotional Lives of Companion Animals: Attachment and Subjective Claims by Owners of Cats and Dogs.” Anthrozoös, 29(1). 2016. Accessed through Taylor & Francis Online https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/epdf/10.1080/08927936.2015.1075299?needAccess=true

[xiv] Loc sit Bekoff, Mark.

[xv] Panksepp, Jaak. “Affective Neuroscience: The Foundations of Human and Animal Emotions.” ISBN 978-0-195-17805-0. Oxford University Press. September, 2004.

[xvi] Loc sit Bekoff, Mark.

[xvii] King, Barbara J., Ph.D. How Animals Grieve. ISBN 978-0-226-43732-2. Oxford University Press. April 17, 2014.

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