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How To Pick the Best Animal Charities to Donate To

By
Mary Schwager
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Finding the best animal charity requires doing some research to find one whose cause you fully support.
Doing some research before donating to an animal charity will help ensure your money makes a difference for dogs in need. Credit: Liudmila Chernetska | Getty Images

You’re scrolling through your social media feed, and a heartbreaking video of a trembling, filthy, emaciated dog with the saddest, haunting eyes stops you in your tracks. The post says, “Bella needs medical help. Please donate to our rescue…” But you’ve never heard of the organization.

What do you do? How do you know the group is a legitimate nonprofit? And that Bella will get the care she needs?

“Paws-ing” for a moment, understanding how the system works, and doing a few minutes of research before you donate to dog charities can pay off.

Donating to Dog Charities

Thousands of animal-related nonprofit organizations are vying for donations, and experts say animal lovers are ready to assist.

“We find donors are highly invested and very interested in how they can support the animal welfare space; it’s one of our most searched areas,” says Jennifer Prelack, the director of charity curation at Charity Navigator, which researches, reviews, and rates nonprofits.

When it comes to the companion animal space, there’s a range of dog charities that need support.

From small, all-volunteer nonprofits that save dogs and find them new homes—to large charities with hundreds of employees that push for tougher puppy mill, backyard breeder, and animal abuse laws.

There are also nonprofit animal shelters, charities that provide spay and neuter surgeries, and foundations that help pay dogs’ veterinary bills.

“Many people see animals as a very vulnerable group,” Prelack says. “I think that’s why it feels so good to contribute, wanting to help crosses all people, all groups, and all viewpoints.”

Finding the Best Animal Charities

With such a vast array of nonprofit groups all rallying for seemingly good causes, how do you decide where to donate?

Look for organizations that advocate for issues that are important or even personal to you.

Perhaps you adopted your beloved pup from a rescue that saves dogs from high-kill shelters and want to give back. Or you know your local animal sanctuary is overwhelmed. Maybe you want to help Bella, the dog on your social media feed.

Once you’ve identified a dog charity you feel pulls on your heartstrings, head to their website and read the mission statement or “about us” section.

Does their cause align with your personal beliefs and a purpose you want to support?

If you feel like there’s a connection, it’s time to put on your pet detective hat and find out more about the group. “We say give with heart but use your head,” Prelack says.

These days, there’s a wealth of information about charities online.

How to Check Out a Charity

Stay on the group’s website and see what information you can dig up.

Check Out a Charity’s Website

Look for how the nonprofit showcases its impact.

  • What programs do they offer?
  • Do they show examples of their work?
  • Do they have an online annual report listing their accomplishments?
  • Do they say where their donations go?
  • Do they have statistics such as the number of dogs saved?

“We’re finding a lot of donors are increasingly valuing data-driven results and organizations that have measurable outcomes,” Prelack says.

Check Out a Charity’s Tax Return

Finding an organization’s tax return (Form 990) on its website can give you a lot of information and help you ensure a group is an official 501(c)(3) nonprofit. You can also ask the charity to send you a copy.

If the form isn’t on the nonprofit’s website, or you have trouble getting it, you can likely find it on the IRS website or on the websites of groups that review nonprofits, like Charity Navigator, Guidestar, CharityWatch, and ProPublica.

These charity watchdog websites have experts and number crunchers who interpret the tax forms for you. Each organization has different criteria for evaluating nonprofits and following the money trail.

One nonprofit might have an excellent rating on one site and a failing grade on another.

“There are about 1.8 million nonprofits in the U.S., and donors are looking for guidance; they’re looking for some understanding,” Prelack says. “We want them to be able to confirm if an organization is reputable and is effectively achieving its mission.”

Here are some key factors to review on a group’s Form 990:

  • How much are the executives and employees making?
  • What is the charity spending their money on?
  • How much of their total income goes to the cause?
  • Is most of the money going to the dogs?

If you’re reviewing a large animal rescue’s tax return, does a majority of their money pay for boarding, medical care, supplies, food, and vaccines that benefit the dogs? Or do most of the donations go to someone’s paycheck or paychecks?

Try Different Google Searches

Google the nonprofit’s name and see what you find. It seems like a no-brainer, but you’d be surprised at what might pop up. Sometimes, you’ll see the good, the bad, and the ugly. The organization may have been honored with awards, covered positively in the news, or is recovering from a scandal.

Then, Google the group’s name with quotation marks around it (e.g., “Doggy Dog Rescue”). This tells the search engine to only look for the nonprofit’s exact name and weed out other entries.

While you’re Googling, try one more search. Type the charity’s name with the word: complaints (e.g., Doggy Dog Rescue complaints). This keyword helps narrow your query even more. You can see if people are griping about the organization or if the group has ever been in trouble.

Check Out a Group’s Social Media Pages

A group’s social media pages can reveal some essential information.

  • Is the group posting achievements and compelling cases?
  • Do you see before and after pictures of dogs the group saved?
  • Do the posts seem coherent, spelled correctly, and thoughtful?
  • What are people saying in the comments section of posts?
  • What is the group’s rating? (If the social media site has that feature)
  • What do the complaints and compliments say?

Of course, some comments or complaints may be exaggerated or unfounded, but also see how a group responds to complaints. Are they respectful and can you see their side of the situation?

Watch Out for Scams

Sadly, scammers are out there trying to take advantage of your goodwill.

Watch for some common pitfalls, warning signs, and red flags.

Email Precautions

If you get an email from a charity, even if it’s one you’ve donated to in the past, read it carefully. Does it sound legit? Are words spelled right? Are sentences properly structured?

What is the sender’s actual email address? It might say “Doggy Dog Rescue” in the name field, but if you look at the exact email address, is it clearly from the organization? Or is the email address weird? Like a bunch of letters, numbers, or something odd?

Those are all red flags.

Be careful about clicking on any links in the email, especially if it seems suspicious. If you want to donate, go directly to the charity’s website.

Text and Phone Precautions

If you get a call from someone who says they’re with a charity that needs your support, hold the phone.

Should you want to listen to what they say, ask them to clearly identify which charity they’re with and how you can donate.

If the caller’s plea is overly emotional, feels like high-pressure sales, and “they need you to act now,” that’s a red flag.

Be cautious about giving credit numbers over the phone. Never pay anyone who asks you to send donations via gift cards, pay cards, or wire transfers. Instead, ask the caller for the nonprofit’s website and follow all the steps above to check out the charity.

If you receive a text, be wary of clicking on links, texting back, or giving personal information.

Check Mailing Precautions

Unfortunately, even mailing a check these days comes with risks.

Record numbers of criminals are swiping checks from the mail, even robbing carriers and stealing their mail.

The thieves often use chemicals or heavy-duty erasers to “wash” checks. They may change your $500 check to a $5000 check, make it payable to someone else, and cash it. This could clean out your bank account, and getting the money refunded can be a mess.

If you want to donate by check, take precautions:

  • Put the check in an envelope you can’t see through.
  • Bring the envelope inside the post office to mail.
  • Don’t put the envelope in your mailbox with the flag up.
  • Use permanent, gel-based ink to write the check so it’s difficult to alter.

The American Bankers Association has more tips on how to prevent check fraud.

Contact a Nonprofit

If you need help finding more information about a charity, contact the organization. Their response, enthusiasm, and willingness to answer your questions may determine whether you want to donate.

If you can’t donate but want to provide help for animals, shelters and rescue groups need volunteers and fosters. Right now, a record number of dogs are in dire need of assistance.

“There are so many organizations that are working really hard to do the work they’re doing,” Prelack says. “Donating is critical and a great way to support an organization you care about, but volunteering is also an excellent way to give back.”

Can Dogs Get Poison Ivy?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dogs can get poison ivy, and it is a hazard to be avoided on woodland walks.
Poison ivy likes dense wooded areas, but it can also be found in other areas, including fields. It is usually a vine, but some types of adapted and can grow close to the ground, so your dog may tromp right through it without you realizing it.

Poison ivy can affect our dogs, but it is not nearly as common as human exposures. The toxic component of this plant is urushiol. This is a clear liquid, and if skin is exposed a very itchy rash follows soon after.

Luckily most dogs have enough hair that the sap usually does not get down to skin. However, hairless breeds, dogs with basically bare groins, and dogs with any skin condition that leaves them with exposed bare skin are all susceptible to the rash.

What to Do for Poison Ivy on a Dog

If your dog is exposed to poison ivy, poison oak, or poison sumac, and you are aware of the exposure, the best bet is to do a quick bath. Colloidal oatmeal shampoo is recommended by the Pet Poison Helpline to minimize risk of rash and pruritus (itching) developing.

Dog Spreads Poison Ivy to Person

It is more common for you to get a case of poison ivy from your dog. If your dog runs through or rolls in a patch of poison ivy, the oils on the outer hair can transfer over to you if you pet or hug your dog. If you have hiked through an area known for poison ivy, wipe your dog off with a towel or baby wipes. Wearing gloves while doing so is not a bad idea, especially if you are sensitive to poison ivy reactions.

My Dog Ate Poison Ivy

If your dog is silly enough to chew on or eat poison ivy, he may get some gastrointestinal irritation leading to vomiting or diarrhea. Usually, these signs are mild and pass without a need for veterinary care. It is not recommended to induce vomiting, as that may simply cause more exposure to urushiol on sensitive tissues. Note: Many plants can be poisonous to your dog, so don’t let them chew on something you don’t recognize.

Precautions to Take

Many hiking sites post warnings if poison ivy is common along the paths. Poison ivy seems to thrive along beaches, so be careful walking through dunes. Stick to boardwalks where you can. Check websites ahead of time and look for notices at parking areas.

If you are clearing a patch of poison ivy from your yard or off trees, keep your dog away. The oils can stay active even after the plant is dead. In addition, do not burn poison ivy in a leaf or brush pile. The urushiol is in the smoke. Inhaling it can irritate airways and lungs.

The same rules apply to poison oak and poison sumac.

Overall, it is best for your dog and you to simply avoid poison ivy. Learn to recognize the plant: The old saying, “Leaves of three, let it be” holds true.

During growing season, the leaves will be a bright green. In the fall, they turn a pretty red but can still cause a rash. The plants may grow along the ground, or “climb” up trees as a vine.

Check your yard for any poison ivy plants and remove them carefully while wearing gloves or contact a yard-care company. Dispose of plants carefully. This is a perennial, so you need to get down to roots for complete removal. Spraying with a mix of vinegar, salt, and dishwashing liquid. The North Carolina Department Cooperative Extension has suggestions for environmentally friendly ways to kill unwanted vegetation like poison ivy.

Grateful for Dogs on This and Every Thanksgiving

By
Nancy Kerns
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Three adorable dogs on a Thanksgiving Hike.
Woody, Boone, and foster Maeve, the dogs sharing a Thanksgiving Day hike and meal with WDJ Editor-in-Chief Nancy Kerns this year.

It goes without saying that on a holiday devoted to gratitude, that I am grateful for my dogs. While they are occasionally a source of concern (both of them being prone to minor but mysterious and undiagnoseable maladies), they are daily a source of amusement and affection, companionship and comfort. They help me professionally, as models for WDJ, test subjects for product reviews and training techniques, and as helper dogs in training classes. And perhaps most importantly, they make me get outdoors to walk—a cure for most bad moods, depression, lethargy, or headaches, and a huge component of my mental health maintenance program.

While my own dogs have been a lifelong source of love and learning, so has all of dogdom. The free-roaming dogs of the rural area where I spent my childhood were as friendly and familiar to me as the kids I rode the bus with—that is to say, some nice and some who were best avoided! From those rural roots I learned about the respect that a well-trained dog can inspire from watching our rancher friend’s Kelpies work cattle, and how dogs who are unguided and unsupervised usually come to tragic ends. Later, force-free dog training and behavior modification deeply informed how I parented my son—“catch them in the act of doing something right and reinforce!”—and I am immeasurably proud to see him carry on that sort of parenting.

I’m also grateful for the humans who have come into my life through dogs. Some of the most generous, compassionate, and selfless people I know, love, and admire are those who work to help dogs. This includes people who work with dogs professionally, such as shelter workers, trainers, veterinarians, and vet techs, but also people who volunteer as foster providers, transporters, trappers, fundraisers, and artists. And my best friends are all “dog people.” We may not know the names of each other’s partners, but we know everything about each other’s dogs, including their food allergies and titles obtained! And when our beloved dogs pass away, we share each other’s deep grief.

If you’re like me, you will take the opportunity on this Thanksgiving Day to show your gratitude to your dogs. Most of us will provide our dogs with a special meal on Thanksgiving—but it will be even more significant to them if you take them for a special walk to their favorite place, and let them sniff and explore at their pace (and you will feel better for having taken a walk, too!). But consider extending your gratitude for dogs in general by sending a donation to or volunteering to help needy dogs at your local shelter. The staff and dogs will be even more grateful.

High-Calorie Dog Food

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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High-calorie dog foods can support a dog with a very active lifestyle.
A high-energy, athletic dog often needs a food that is nutrient-dense, high-calorie food to maintain his weight. Credit: S5lztok | Getty Images

When it comes to keeping your dog healthy, active, and energized, the right diet plays a crucial role. For dogs with higher energy needs—active dogs, working dogs, athletes, puppies, nursing females, and dogs recovering from illness or surgery—finding a diet that is energy-dense is crucial. You need a nutrient-dense, high-calorie food that will help keep your dog performing at his or her best. But how do you decide? Read on.

What Is High-Calorie Dog Food?

High-calorie dog food is designed to provide more energy per serving, typically through higher levels of fat, protein, and sometimes digestible carbohydrates. This type of food is ideal for dogs with elevated energy needs, including working dogs, sport dogs, dogs with high metabolisms, and those who are highly active or undergoing intense training. The dog food bag will likely be labeled for these types of dogs. Active dogs, and those with high metabolisms or specific health concerns, burn through calories much faster than sedentary dogs.

High-calorie foods are designed to provide the necessary nutrients and energy required to fuel their lifestyles without overfeeding them. This ensures that dogs maintain their weight, muscle mass, and energy levels throughout the day. For active dogs, high-calorie food helps ensure they have the energy to keep their muscles and metabolism functioning efficiently, giving them stamina to perform throughout the day. Dogs recovering from medical conditions often need extra calories to support tissue repair, fuel the immune system, and regain strength, and promote healing.

How to Select The Best Dog Food

Fat is the most energy-dense nutrient at 9 calories per gram. On the other hand, protein and carbohydrates only 4 calories per gram. Because of its density, many high-calorie foods are formulated with a higher fat content, ranging from 15% to 30%, or higher, compared to standard dog food that typically ranges from 8% to 15% fat. The higher fat content provides a concentrated source of energy, allowing active dogs to get the fuel they need without needing to consume large quantities of food.

Read the Dog Food Ingredients List

When selecting the best high-calorie dog food for your active pup, consider:

  • The quality of ingredients
  • Digestibility of the food
  • Any health issues your dog may have

Look for high-quality protein sources of animal origin, such as chicken, beef, lamb, or fish. To maintain muscle mass, high-calorie diets should be high in complete proteins. High-calorie foods should also contain highly digestible ingredients to prevent gastrointestinal issues. And make transitions to your new food over a time of a week or so, plus, it’s wise to buy bags at a size you think your dog can finish within a month.

Calories Count

The calorie content of these foods typically ranges from 400 to 500 or more calories per cup. If your dog has specific health needs, such as joint issues, a sensitive stomach, or a history of heart disease, choose a formula that addresses those concerns in addition to providing high-calorie support.

High-calorie dog food is an excellent choice for active dogs who require more energy to maintain their vitality, muscle mass, and endurance. Whether you have a sporting dog, a working dog, or a high-energy puppy, a nutrient-dense, high-calorie food will help keep them performing at their best. Note: Please visit our website and use our searchable database of wet dog foods and dry dog foods to help narrow down the number of choices to what you’re looking to find for your dog. For example, if your dog can’t eat chicken, our database will bring up foods that don’t include chicken.

Ask Questions

If you’re not sure a food is right for your dog, such as maybe you’re worried about a certain ingredient that isn’t on the bag, send an email to the company’s customer service. Usually, if you ask a specific question, you’ll get a helpful answer. If you don’t, you may want to look at other foods. Most customer service representatives will request help from the company’s nutritionists when necessary, so you may not get an immediate response. Good companies want your business.

And, of course, as with any dietary change, always consult your veterinarian to ensure the diet is appropriate for your specific dog and their health conditions. With the right food, your dog will have all the energy they need to stay active, happy, and healthy.

Can Dogs Get Lice?

By
Dan Muse
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Dogs can get lice, and the way it is spread is from close contact with other dogs.
: Lice on a dog can be spread through direct contact with another dog, such as when playing. Credit: Red Stallion | Getty Images

Yes, dogs can get lice. While not as common as fleas, lice can find a home on your canine companion. Two distinct types of lice infest dogs, according to the Companion Animal Parasite Council, a nonprofit group focused on bringing awareness of the threat parasites present to pets and family members. Those lice are:

 

  1. Mallophaga: Biting, or chewing, lice that often leave cuts on your dog’s skin.
  2. Anoplura: Sucking lice feed on the dog’s blood. Their narrow heads are designed to pierce a dog’s skin.

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, signs of a lice infestation in dogs include:

  • Excessive scratching and biting
  • Hair loss
  • Irritated skin
  • Visible lice or nits (lice eggs)

Lice on your dog can cause a potentially serious condition known as pediculosis, which involves terrible itching and scratching and potentially anemia, so don’t waste time. If you suspect your dog has lice, talk to your veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Can Dogs Get Lice from Humans?

If your first question was, “Can dogs get lice?” your next questions are probably:

Can lice on my dog spread to me? No.

Can my dog get lice from people? No.

Can these pesky parasites make the leap back and forth from dog to human? No.

The good news is that the lice that affect dogs are species-specific. You don’t have to worry about catching lice from your dog, and your dog doesn’t have to worry about catching them from you.

“Parasite lice are highly ‘host-specific,’ which means that they typically live, feed, and reproduce on a single species of animal,” according to a report by Purdue University. “These lice very rarely transfer to a human, and they die within a few hours or so if they happen to get on our bodies. This is why pets and livestock that are infested with lice are not a source of louse infestation to infants, young children, and adults.”

The Stages of Canine Lice

The first stage of canine lice occurs when female lice glue their eggs, or nits, to the hairs of your dog, near the skin, Jennifer E. Thomas, DVM, Oklahoma State University, writes in the Merck Veterinary Manual. Unfortunately, ordinary shampooing and washing will not eliminate nits.

The warning signs of lice infestation are excessive scratching, biting, and rubbing. The dog’s coat may appear rough and dry, and in severe cases, hair can mat. Sucking lice can cause small wounds that may become infected.

The diagnosis of lice is typically made by visually identifying lice or their eggs in the fur, particularly when parting the hair. Chewing lice are more active and visible, while sucking lice move slower and often appear embedded in the skin.

However, it’s important to note that scratching from a severe lice infestation can sometimes lead to secondary skin infections. If your dog has a severe case of lice, it’s best to consult your veterinarian to prevent complications and to be sure it’s lice and not a different parasite.

How Lice Spread?

Lice can be transmitted in several ways: Direct contact, such as playing or grooming, is the most common way lice spread between dogs. Additionally, bedding, grooming tools, collars, or toys can become and transmit lice.  Thanks to the use of flea and tick preventives, pediculosis in dogs and cats has become rare in the United States and usually occurs on feral, stray, or animals in shelters that have poor sanitation. Dogs that are already compromised due to illness, malnutrition, or stress are more susceptible to lice infestations.

Preventing Lice Before They Infest Your Dog

Preventing lice infestations in dogs involves a few simple steps. Regular grooming, including brushing and bathing, helps detect infestations early. Maintaining a clean space for your dog is crucial. Avoid sharing grooming tools or bedding among dogs. Lastly, routine veterinary check-ups can help identify potential issues before they become severe.

When Is A Dog Considered a Senior?

By
Cindy Howle, M.Ed. NBCT
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When is a dog a senior dog. There are many signs inside and out.
A lot of factors that go into determining when exactly a dog reaches senior status, but there are some simple things dog owners can do to help an aging dog stay happy and healthy. Credit: Bread and Butter Productions | Getty Images

“There is not a ‘one size fits all’ schedule for senior status, as different-sized dogs age at different rates,” says Dr. Robin Downing, Hospital Director for the Downing Center for Animal Pain Management in Colorado. We know from biological markers that metabolic and structural changes occur as dogs age determining their senior status, she says. And size matters.

When Is My Dog a Senior?

Tiny dogs have a longer life expectancy while giant and large breeds are on the other end of the spectrum biologically, aging faster.

  • Small/tiny dogs are typically considered seniors around 10 to 11 years.
  • Medium-sized dogs usually reach senior status around 8 to 9 years.
  • Larger/giant breeds age faster and are usually considered seniors at around 6 to 7 years.

“One important consideration is a dog’s biologic age may or may not match their chronologic age,” says Downing, noting that the rate of aging depends on many factors including genetics and lifestyle. This, she says, gives pet owners a powerful opportunity to help their dogs achieve and maintain a lower biological age than chronological through preventive care.

A recent study using data from the Dog Aging Project found other factors affecting activity over time including the owner’s age, dog and owner characteristics, dog size, and the environment where they live.

Caring for a Senior Dog

When you are caring for an aging dog, there are some things you can do to improve or even extend her life. Helping a senior dog stay healthy can include:

  • Keeping your dog a healthy weight is the first line of defense. Your vet can help determine an optimal weight and body composition for your dog.
  • Making sure your dog sees a vet at least every six months. Early detection of any potential problems means early intervention, supporting a longer and better life.
  • Getting regular exercise. Exercise remains key for maintaining aging muscles and joints. “Move it or lose it.”
  • Providing mental enrichment. Seek out safe opportunities for mental and emotional engagement, such as learning new skills or tricks. For more on how to keep your older dog mentally engaged, see “The Importance of Mental Stimulation for Dogs.”
  • Don’t forget to socialize! Experiences like cafes and group walks are healthy activities for dogs who like that kind of thing. Honor your dog’s preferences regarding social time.
  • Providing regular dental care at home and professional periodontal therapy as needed. Periodontal disease is extremely common in older dogs and can lead to a number of other health problems.

Common Senior Dog Health Problems

Old age is not a disease, yet some health issues are more common in older dogs. Among them are:

  • Osteoarthritis (OA)
  • Chronic kidney disease
  • Congestive heart failure
  • Cancer: Have your vet investigate every lump.
  • Hearing and vision loss
  • Age-related cognitive dysfunction

When it comes to older dogs, less get-up-and-go stamina does not necessarily mean the dog is uncomfortable or in pain. However, a marked decrease in activity and mobility almost always indicates pain, according to Downing. Check out all mobility issues with your vet.

Senior Dog Nutrition

“There is no defined nutrient profile for a “Senior” life stage,” says veterinary nutritionist Dr. Julie Churchill. “This means pet foods labeled for “seniors” is a marketing term and not defined by anyone other than that specific company.”

The American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) regulates and defines pet food industry standards for a “complete and balanced” diet for life stages of healthy dogs (growth and adult maintenance) or “all life stages.” It does not have a separate standard for senior dogs.

“It isn’t realistic to define a nutrient profile to meet all senior needs because as pets age, just like people, their calorie needs change,” says Dr. Churchill.  “An individualized vet-directed feeding plan is the best approach.”

When looking for the right food to feed your senior dog, consider the following:

  • Check the WSAVA Global Nutrition guidelines when choosing a “complete and balanced” diet. See also “How to Choose a Dog Food: Factors to Consider.”
  • Monitor protein intake. Dogs commonly need more protein as they age. Check with your vet or a canine nutritionist to see what they recommend for your dog.
  • Have fresh water available at all times and monitor your dog’s intake. No only is good hydration important to overall healthy, a sudden increase in thirst can signal illness. Consult your vet if you notice your dog is drinking more than usual.
  • Feed the correct amount for a lean body condition. A good starting point is WSAVA’s adult dog calorie ranges for an ideal body condition. However, you will need to pay attention to your dog’s weight and overall condition. Her needs may vary significantly from the average and will likely change as she ages.
  • To reduce caloric intake for weight management, seek a lower calorie, higher protein food.
  • Use meal toppers sparingly as overuse can create a nutritional imbalance.

When Is the Best Time to Start Feeding a Dog a Senior Diet?

As with everything else related to canine aging, the right time to switch to a diet designed to support a senior dog depends on the individual dog and her diet.

“When a dog enters what would be the second half of his/her expected lifespan, then they should get a thorough evaluation by their veterinarian,” says Churchill. This includes a physical exam, lab work and a diet evaluation to ensure their current diet is meeting all nutritional needs. “The diet may or may not be labeled ‘senior’ food, but it should be one that matches the individual dog’s needs,” she says.

Monitoring nutrition, ensuring proper exercise and enrichment, and scheduling regular vet visits can create opportunities to positively affect your dog’s aging process. “All in all, helping a dog age gracefully provides so much enjoyment, says Downing. “We just need to be aware, vigilant, and proactive.”

What Is a Double-Coated Dog?

By
Jessica Peralta
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Double coated dog breeds like this border collie require specialized coat care.
Double-coated dogs, like the Border Collie pictured here, require regular grooming to keep their coats and skin healthy. Credit: Bigandt_Photography | Getty Images

A dog with a double coat essentially has two types of hair: a smoother, protective topcoat and a dense, rough undercoat. Double-coated dog breeds come in all shapes, sizes, and temperaments. There are too many to list all of them, but some of the most popular double-coated dogs include Corgis, Border Collies, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Bernese Mountain Dogs. Regardless of shape and size, one thing they all have in common is shedding.

“Anyone considering getting a double-coated breed should know that there is no one solution to stop shedding,” says Joy Burton, AKC-certified professional dog groomer and co-owner of a Well Groomed franchise location in California. “The shedding is going to happen year-round so prepare yourself by getting all the necessary grooming tools you will need to maintain their coat at home as well as keeping them on a consistent grooming schedule to prevent undercoat buildup and excess shedding.”

Grooming Double-Coated Dogs

Regular grooming is an important part of caring for a double-coated dog. Without a proper grooming routine, the dog’s fur can form tangles and mats that may need to be cut out. If left unattended for long enough, these can become painful and even cause sores or skin damage.

Part of developing a good grooming strategy for your dog is understanding how his coat works. “The topcoat helps repel moisture and dirt while the undercoat works like insulation, protecting the pet from both cold and hot temperatures,” Burton says. “Double coats vary amongst breeds.”

To keep both layers of a double coat in good shape, you’ll want to:

  • Brush your dog three to four times a week to prevent undercoat buildup—and even more so during high-shedding seasons like summer and winter.
  • Use a rubber brush paired with a short bristle slicker brush on short, double coats.
  • Use a medium to long bristle slicker brush, greyhound comb, and undercoat rake on medium- and long-haired double coats.
  • Use a line-brushing technique to catch mats or dead undercoat. To “line-brush” a dog:
    1. Use a brush or comb to separate out a small section of fur.
    2. Mist the section with water or a detangling product (be sure to follow the directions on the label).
    3. Brush the section thoroughly with a pin brush.
    4. Run a comb through the section to ensure there are no tangles hiding.
    5. Move on to a spot a little above or to the side of the first section and repeat the process until the whole dog has been brushed out. It works best to start low and work your way up.
  • Get a deshedding bath at the dog’s regular grooming appointment every four to eight weeks.
  • Unless necessary for medical reasons, never shave a double-coated dog. “Doing so will permanently damage their coat,” Burton says. “It will grow back rough and patchy, dry or very oily, and could even not grow back at all. It also strips away the dog’s ability to cool themselves down in warmer weather and keep themselves warm in colder weather. The grow-back process after a double coat is shaved down can be very irritating and uncomfortable for them.”

Should You Get a Double-Coated Dog?

Many dog breeds have double coats and double coats themselves vary in length, thickness, and care required, so there are a lot of options for people interested in a double-coated dog. If you are thinking about bringing a double-coated dog into the family, the biggest thing to consider when it comes to the coat type is whether you mind shedding and some grooming maintenance.

“I would recommend double-coated breeds to anyone who can commit to the grooming maintenance that is required for this coat type,” says Joy. “I would also recommend them to anyone who lives in a cooler climate. Breeds like Siberian Huskies and Newfoundlands thrive in cooler environments.”

5 Popular Double-Coated Dog Breeds

While there are many double-coated dog breeds out there, here are a few popular examples:

  • Active and intelligent, Pembroke Welsh Corgis are smaller, roughly 30-pound herding dogs with thick, short double coats that shed significantly.
  • Border Collies often top lists of most intelligent dogs with double coats that come in both short and medium lengths. These medium-sized herders are incredibly active and agile working dogs that usually do best in active families.
  • Golden Retrievers are medium-large hunting dogs with a long list of job titles—from family pet to guide dog. Their medium-length double coats come in variations of gold. Known for their generally friendly temperaments, they are also energetic and need regular exercise.
  • German Shepherds have double coats that come in a variety of lengths and colors. Though technically herders, they’re all-around hard workers, sometimes finding jobs in law enforcement. They’re typically intelligent, protective, and loyal to their families, but do need plenty of exercise and often prefer to have a job.
  • Bernese Mountain Dogs are a larger working breed with a long, thick double coat. They frequently have a more relaxed disposition and, although they are workers, their exercise requirements tend to be more on the moderate side.

How To Train an Aggressive Dog

By
Dr. Kate Mornement Phd, CAAB
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0
How to train an aggressive dog? Choose the right trainer or veterinary behavioris.
In most cases, the right training can make a big difference for dogs exhibiting aggressive behaviors. Credit: sae1010 | Getty Images

Aggression is a very common behavioral problem in pet dogs which many dog guardians struggle with. An aggressive dog can be dangerous and a liability in the event she hurts a person or another animal. The good news is that aggressive behavior can be successfully modified using a combination of good management and humane behavior modification techniques. Let’s explore why dogs show aggression and how to train an aggressive dog safely and effectively.

Why Do Dogs Show Aggression?

Aggression is a normal behavior for dogs and part of their species-specific behavioral repertoire. However, it can become problematic when shown in ways that put the safely and wellbeing of people or other animals at risk. Common reasons that dogs show aggression include:

  • Fear or anxiety: Aggression can be a symptom of underlying fear or anxiety triggered by a person, another animal, or a situation. In this case, aggression is used to increase the distance between the aggressing dog and a perceived threat.
  • Pain or illness: When a dog is unwell or in pain, they often have a reduced tolerance to things that wouldn’t otherwise bother them. This can result in an increased likelihood of aggression.
  • Territorial instincts: Despite being domesticated, dogs retain some instincts in common with their wild living relatives including the instinct to protect their territory (home). This can manifest in aggressive behavior (e.g. barking, growling and lunging) toward passers-by, other animals, or visitors to the home.
  • Resource guarding: Some dogs use aggression to gain or maintain access to high-value resources. This behavior often develops when a dog had to compete for access to resources (such as food) as a puppy or constantly had her resources taken away from her.
  • Social dynamics: Aggression can occur during interactions with other animals, particularly following new introductions, due to poor socialization or when relationship parameters are first being established.

How To Train an Aggressive Dog

Understanding the root cause of the aggression is essential to allow you to train an aggressive dog safely and effectively. Before you begin to train your aggressive dog, take the following steps:

  • Pinpoint the triggers that cause your dog to show aggression. Refer to the list above for assistance.
  • Identify the severity of the aggression in terms of its frequency and intensity. Is it mild, moderate, or severe? Does it happen frequently and has it persisted for a long time? Has the dog caused a serious injury to a person or another dog? If so, the aggression might be on the moderate to severe end of the scale.
  • Make an appointment with your veterinarian to identify and address or rule out a health or medical issue that could be causing or contributing to the aggression.
  • Use safety tools such as a muzzle, leash, crate, and baby gates to prevent harm to others and avoid, as much as possible, situations that trigger aggressive behavior.
  • Work with a professional trainer or behaviorist who specializes in aggression to ensure the right behavior modification practices are utilized.

When it comes to training an aggressive dog to reduce aggressive behavior the most common and effect strategies include:

  • Desensitization and Counterconditioning: This involves gradually exposing the dog to the trigger at a level that is well tolerated by the dog and does not elicit an aggressive response. At the same time, counterconditioning is implemented and involves pairing the trigger with positive experiences (high value food works best) to change the dog’s emotional response from a negative to a positive association.
  • Avoid using punishment: Using positive punishment can increase fear and escalate aggression (Arhant et al., 2010). Research shows that aversive training techniques jeopardize the mental and physical health of dogs (Ziv, 2017). Instead, positive reinforcement should be used.
  • Teaching an alternative behavior: Once the dog starts to anticipate the treats during this training you can ask for a behavior, such as sit or look, and reinforce that with the treats in the presence of the trigger.
  • Consistency, repetition, and patience: Training an aggressive dog takes time and progress is typically not linear. This means there will be good days and some bad days. The key is to be consistent and patient and work at your dog’s pace.
  • Regular monitoring and adjustment if needed: It’s important to monitor progress and keep in touch with your trainer or behaviorist so they can adjust the training plan if needed. Celebrate any improvements you make with your dog.

How To Manage and Handle an Aggressive Dog

Good management and handling of an aggressive dog will help to prevent bite injuries to people and other animals. The aim is to avoid or at least limit things that trigger the aggression and to handle the dog in a way that keeps you, other people, and other animals safe. This could include strategies such as always walking the dog on lead when outside the home, utilizing a muzzle, and walking the dog in areas where they are less likely to encounter triggers for aggression. For dogs who show aggression towards visitors to the home, it’s important to physically separate the dog from visitors at all times.

When it comes to handling, avoid attempting to physically move your dog, such as pulling them by the collar, as this will likely lead to an aggressive response. Instead, use positive reinforcement such as high value treats or their meal to encourage them to follow you if you need to move them from A to B.

Training an aggressive dog involves time, consistency, repetition, good management and a kind, positive reinforcement-based training approach. Working with a professional is highly recommended when it comes to training aggressive dogs due to the risk they pose to others.

How To Choose the Right Trainer or Behaviorist

Choosing the right trainer or behaviorist is crucial to getting the help you need to understand and learn how to train your aggressive dog safely and effectively. Due to a lack of regulation within the industry, anyone can refer to themselves as a dog trainer or behaviorist, even if they lack relevant qualifications. Unfortunately, this often results in unsuspecting owners engaging unqualified trainers or behaviorists who use outdated or harmful training techniques, such as shock collars, prong collars, and other punitive methods, which can make the aggression worse.

This means it’s up to dog guardians to do their due diligence and research local trainers and behaviorists to find one who is reputable, knowledgeable, and experienced teaching people how to train an aggressive dog.

Look for a dog trainer with formal dog training qualifications which prioritize positive reinforcement and humane techniques. There are several organizations in the United States that offer dog training courses utilizing the latest scientific understanding of dog behavior, learning, and welfare. These include the Karen Pryor Academy, the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT) and the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC).

Animal Behaviorists have a master’s or Ph.D. level university qualification in animal behavior whereas veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians with further qualifications in animal behavior.

What is their training philosophy?

Look for trainers who have a modern training philosophy that prioritizes the use of humane and welfare friendly positive reinforcement techniques while avoiding harsh punishment.

Professional Memberships and Certifications

Reputable dog trainers and behaviorists are usually members of professional organizations and must adhere to the code of ethics, vision and mission set out by the organization.

There are also professional certification programs for animal and veterinary behaviorists such as the Animal Behavior Society’s Board Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist Certification. These programs require a high level of academic education, knowledge of behavior, and extensive practical experience.

If you’re struggling with aggressive behavior in your dog, please reach out to a suitable professional. The right training for aggressive dogs can make the world of difference to them and the people that love them.

References

Arhant, C., Bubna-Littitz, H., Bartels, A., Futschik, A., & Troxler, J. (2010). Behaviour of smaller and larger dogs: Effects of training methods, inconsistency of owner behaviour and level of engagement in activities with the dog. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 123(3-4), 131-142.

Ziv, G. (2017). The effects of using aversive training methods in dogs—A review. Journal of veterinary behavior, 19, 50-60.

PHOTO: Caption: In most cases, the right training can make a big difference for dogs exhibiting aggressive behaviors. Credit: sae1010 | Getty Images

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Dog Park Rules

By
Nancy Kerns
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0
Dog park rules are often listed on signs like the one displayed here.
A list of rules for the dog park in Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina. Photo courtesy of Helene Goldberger.

A friend recently posted a photograph she took at a dog park she visited in Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina. Pictured was a sign, posted at the entrance of the dog park, which listed the rules that visitors were supposed to observe at the park. It was a very good list, full of common-sense cautions, and aimed at asking people to observe their dogs at all times and take full responsibility for their dogs’ behavior.

I am a fan of dog-park rules, and I, too, have taken pictures of the posted rules at every dog park I have ever visited, in an effort to see how different communities have responded to the people and dogs there. This sign covered the most important points, I think, although I would debate some of them. (I’ve never seen what I would consider a perfect list of rules; there may be no such thing!)

  • All dogs and visitors use the park at their own risk; property owners are not responsible for any injury caused by dogs or facility structure.
  • Owners are legally responsible for the behavior of their dog(s) at all times.
  • No dogs without people. No people without dogs. No more than two dogs per person.
  • Dogs must be leashed while entering and exiting the dog run. (Note: Some parks install a small “airlock” with gates at either end where you can enter with your leashed dog, close the gate behind you, and remove his leash before opening the gate at the other end to let your now-unleashed dog into the park. Upon exiting, you can open the interior gate, enter the airlock with your dog, close it behind you, and put his leash before exiting. This helps you leash and unleash your dog without the distractions of other dogs—and prevents the escape of any dogs who try to slip in or out while you are entering or exiting.)
  • Handlers must carry a leash and remain inside the fenced area within view and voice control of their dogs at all times.
  • No spike, prong, or pinch collars. However, your dog must wear a collar or harness in the run at all times. (I strongly prefer dogs to play “naked,” to prevent any potential entanglements from dogs grabbing each other’s gear, but I appreciate the necessity of having a “handle” with which to grab a dog in case of a fight.)
  • Dog handlers must be at least 16 years of age.
  • Acts of aggression against other dogs or people are prohibited. Dogs must be removed if uncontrollable.
  • If your dog gets in a fight, exchange contact information and leave the dog run. You are responsible for any injury caused by your dog to dogs or people.
  • No dogs in heat. Closely monitor un-neutered males. (I would argue that one must closely monitor all the dogs, regardless of neutering status, but I think they are referencing the potential for actual mating here. Some parks restrict intact dogs from playing, which I think goes too far.)
  • No food or dog chews are allowed in the dog run. (Again, I like to have treats on my person for reinforcing my dogs for recalls or checking in with me, but I recognize that some dogs in the park may be resource-guarders and become aggressive around food. I can follow the park’s rule, or enter with food only when no other dogs are present.)
  • Dogs must be at least four months old, licensed, and have up-to-date vaccinations, including rabies. (I agree with the age requirements; dog parks are not safe for inexperienced and incompletely immunized puppies. And of course, I agree with the laws requiring rabies vaccines—and licenses are largely about making sure that dogs rabies’ vaccines are current. But there are lots of different definitions of “up-to-date vaccinations;” that one is a quagmire.)
  • Clean up after your dog. No littering. Place all waste in proper recepticles.
  • Watch your dogs at all times. Discourage barking and digging. If your dog digs a hole, fill it in.
  • Bring children at your own risk. Children under 13 must be accompanied by an adult. (I can’t tell you how many small children I have seen get hurt at dog parks, by getting knocked over and even humped! The sight of small kids being carried or even on a parent’s shoulders makes some dogs jump on the parent in an effort to reach the child. I say small kids have no business being in dog parks at all. )

The big catch here, of course, is how you can get people to follow the rules. Few of us enjoy being confrontational or having to self-police our recreational spaces to ensure our dogs’ safety—but one absolutely must! The bad news is that there are always some people who are too arrogant or self-centered to take advice or instruction from others, and in those cases, I just leave the dog park (and recommend that others who are concerned do, too).

Note that I am only very rarely in a dog park. I am extremely fortunate to have both limitless open space where dogs are allowed to be off-leash and dogs with very good recall (which I practice daily and reward generously). But occasionally I foster an energetic dog who needs running and doesn’t have enough of a relationship with me to count on their emerging recall skills; then I will look for a large fenced park at a time of day where there are few (if any) other dogs present so the dog can really burn off some excess energy. And I’m grateful when there are rules and a rule-following culture in place to prevent injuries and traumatic events.

Here is one of my favorite dog-park signs (taken at a park that I enjoy in Grass Valley, California):

Dog park rules may be enforced by local authorities.
Photo courtesy of Nancy Kerns.

What dog-park rules not covered here are important to you?

Why Is My Dog’s Tail Down?

By
Rachel Brix, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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0
A dogs tail down indicates fear, nervousness or stress.
When combined with worried-looking, round eyes, tucked-back ears, and tentative movement, a downward-angled tail usually indicates that a dog is nervous or frightened. Credit: imv | Getty Images

If your dog’s tail is down and he’s not acting like his normal self, something is likely bothering him either emotionally or physically—or both.

What It Means When a Dog’s Tail is Down

When a dog’s tail is down, it may signal:

  • Nervousness
  • Fear
  • Uncertainty
  • Stress
  • Appeasement/submissiveness
  • Not feeling well

When trying to decode what a tucked tail might mean, first consider how your dog usually holds his tail. Some breeds, like Labradors, Golden Retrievers and German Shepherd Dogs, naturally carry their tails in a downward position. However, if your dog’s tail is down when it’s normally upright—or his typically downward-sweeping tail is tucked up under his rump—it’s time to pay attention. When trying to understand the cause of a downward tail, look at both the whole body and the situation.

Is the Dog with His Tail Down Acting Weird?

Determining context can go a long way toward helping your pooch feel better. Is he afraid of something? If so, remove “the thing” or help him get away from the situation and see if he goes back to being his happy-go-lucky self.

Other signs you might see when the dog with his tail down is afraid include:

  • Cowering/shrunken appearance
  • Ears down
  • Lowered eyes
  • Whale eye
  • Looking away/Head turn
  • Lip licking
  • Yawning
  • Closed/tight mouth

An often-misinterpreted appeasement gesture is the squinty-eyed, toothy “smile.” This is actually a gesture of submission, sometimes paired with a downward or even tucked tail. So is rolling over when combined with other signs. In this situation, resist the urge to rub your dog’s belly. He is asking to be left alone, not for tummy time! These gestures can indicate appeasement, so what your dog is saying is “please go away, I’m uncomfortable.” Submissive urination happens sometimes too. Again, determine the context and arrange your dog’s environment so he’s more comfortable. If this behavior persists, reach out to a fear-free trainer.

Is the Dog with HisTail Down Sick?

Another possibility for a dog holding his tail down or tucked might be that something is physically wrong, either with the dog’s tail (i.e. sprained tail, limber tail syndrome, etc.) or something else. Even if the tail itself is fine, dogs often tuck their tails if they are uncomfortable or in pain. Look for additional signs your dog might not be feeling well such as vomiting, diarrhea, hiding, lack of appetite, or lethargy. If it seems like something is wrong—or if you’re not sure—take him to a vet for a health check.

When it comes to a dog with his tail down, watch closely and pay attention to what he is trying to tell you. Dogs say a lot with their tails. To learn more check out “Dog Tail Signs: What’s Your Dog’s Tail Language?”

What is Flyball?

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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0
Flyball is a canine sport that engages your dog's instinct for fetch and challenges their athleticism.
To compete in flyball, dogs must be able to clear hurdles, turn on a box, retrieve a ball, and return to the start line. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

Some dogs would play fetch all day long if they could. Flyball takes the game of fetch to the next level by adding hurdles, a box to turn on, and other dogs racing at the same time. If your dog has a lot of toy drive, loves to retrieve, and can work around other dogs in fast-paced environments, flyball is the canine sport to try out.

Flyball is a relay race for dogs, where teams compete against each other for title points and bragging rights. Dogs are released from the start line, where they dash over four hurdles to a flyball box. They then turn by running up onto the slanted side of the flyball box, which releases a ball from its holding spot in the corner. The dog needs to catch the ball as it’s released and run back over the four hurdles to the start line. The next dog is released behind the start line while the first dog is on its way back, and ideally the two dogs pass each other nose to nose at the start line.

How To Get Your Dog Started in Flyball

According to Tonia Tamburini, flyball competitor, instructor, and team captain of the Denver Speed Demons flyball club, any dog can learn to play flyball. “We have a wide variety of breeds and sizes that play,” she says. “Athletic, fast dogs with a lot of drive tend to be the fastest at flyball, and dogs that understand the game of fetch can usually pick up the game faster than ones that are not interested in fetching a ball.”

If your dog seems to fit the bill, there are a few steps you should take to get them involved in flyball:

  1. Find a Flyball Club

According to Lydia Goggin, owner and trainer at Be Right Back Flyball Club in Northern Colorado, folks new to the sport should first look for a flyball club in their area.

“A good place to start is the North American Flyball Association (NAFA) or United Flyball League International (U-FLI) website and look for the teams listed in your area,” she recommends. “You can also find lists of tournaments in your area and talk to teams directly. NAFA also has Regional Directors who can help you find a club in your area and I believe U-FLI has a similar position.”

  1. Start Training

The foundation training for flyball is similar to agility in that it requires a number of specific, proofed skills in order to play. Tamburini says that toy/tug drive, recall, box turns, and retrieving are the four main foundational behaviors your dog needs to learn when starting flyball training. Here’s why each one is important:

  • Toy/Tug drive: Tamburini says that building strong toy/tug drive “will make your dog faster and will help reward the dog for playing correctly.”
  • Recall: “Having consistent and fast recalls is an important part of the game”, Tamburini says. “After a dog is consistent alone, we practice recalls while racing other dogs which they have to ignore.”
  • Box turn: “Dogs need to learn how to turn and push themselves off of the box with all four paws while also getting the ball,” Tamburini says. “They need to master the shape of the turn first, then we add the ball.”
  • Retrieve: Tamburini says that dogs need to learn how to retrieve a “still” ball that is placed. This can be a change for dogs who are only used to retrieving balls or other objects that are thrown.
  1. Get on a Team

Since Flyball is a team sport, you’ll need a team of four dogs to compete in trials. Don’t worry about finding your own team though, getting involved in a club will point you in the right direction.

“Each club fields their own teams, so whichever club you are training with in your area will help put you on a team to play with,” says Goggin. “There are no height or speed requirements, and most clubs can accommodate faster or slower dogs. Small dogs are actually very nice to have because the smallest/shortest dog on the team sets the jump height!”

Don’t worry if your dog isn’t the fastest or most impressive on the team. “People love to watch all different types of dogs run and you will often see the silliest or slowest dogs being the crowd favorites,” says Goggin.

How Long Does Flyball Training Take?

Like agility, there can be a big learning curve when you first get started in flyball. Goggin tells folks “to expect about a year of training before being tournament ready (some dogs will take more time and some will take less).”

She recommends working on recall, basic obedience, and impulse control skills to give dogs a step up in training flyball skills. Tamburini recommends working on these foundational skills at home where possible. “Working on foundations at home will speed training up so you can focus on team skills at class/practice.”

Tamburini agrees with Goggin that getting competition-ready for flyball can take quite a while. “I’ve seen dogs that are competition ready within a year of starting training and I’ve seen others that take years and years,” she says. “There are many, many components that a dog has to master before being able to compete such as going over all of the jumps consistently, bringing the ball all the way back over the start line, passing dogs nose to nose, ignoring the dogs in the other lane, coming back to the handler consistently. It is really common for a dog to struggle with one of those components and it takes time to get them ready.”

If you’re interested in getting started in flyball, know that it will likely require months of consistent training before you’re truly ready to compete. If you want to try out a sport that takes less upfront training time, consider FastCAT or rally.

How to Find and Enter Flyball Events

Flyball includes obstacles like box turnes.
Dogs participating in flyball learn how to complete box turns, rebounding off of the slanted side of the flyball box while grabbing a ball. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

Both of the two main flyball associations (NAFA and U-FLI) have sections on their websites to search for upcoming tournaments based on location. U-FLI allows you to search by state, while NAFA requires you to search by region. NAFA regions may contain just one state, or up to eight states depending on location. Dogs need to be 15 months or older to compete in flyball tournaments.

Unlike most other dog sports, Flyball entries typically need to be made as a team. Your team needs to be registered with the hosting organization of the tournament you’re interested in before you can enter. Some organizations offer singles or pairs competitions, but the bulk of flyball tournaments are focused on team events.

How to Earn Flyball Titles

Tamburini explains that teams are selected to compete against each other based on speed. “Teams of 4-6 dogs are entered with seed times for a tournament so teams are racing other teams with a similar speed in a division.”

As you compete against these teams, your team earns points towards winning their division. You can also accumulate titles if you compete in NAFA sanctioned tournaments. Goggin explains that you can accumulate points towards titles by completing team races, and the cleaner the run, the more points you get. “If all four dogs run under 24 seconds without human or dog faults they each get the maximum available points,” she says. “Fewer points are awarded for each clean heat run over 24 seconds, but under 32 seconds.”

Dogs that fault during their run must then rerun, and the first team with four dogs that all run clean will win. “Rerunning the dog adds to their overall time,” says Tamburini. “Common faults include fast starting or early passing, dropped balls, going around the jumps or crossing into the other lane.”

Should I Try Flyball With My Dog?

Hurdles are part of the obstacles a dog must overcome on a flyball course.
A flyball lane has four hurdles that each dog must clear as they run to the box and as they return to the start line. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

If you’re interested in trying out flyball, Goggin recommends stopping by a local tournament and talking to competitors to learn more. “Since flyball is a team sport, playing with other people that have the same goals and values that you do is so important,” she says. “We are all here to have fun with our dogs and it’s easier to do that if you’re having fun with the people you’re with!”

Goggin also recommends shopping around for a club, so don’t feel pressured to join the first club you come in contact with. “Most people will support trying to find the right fit,” she says.

Tamburini recommends that folks who get involved with flyball be prepared to work as a team. “Be ready to help your teammates train their dog, help your team with various jobs, be willing to compromise and do what’s best for the group,” she says.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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