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Why Do Dogs Bark at Nothing?

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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3
Why do dogs bark at nothing? There could be several causes for the behavior but it isn't nothing to the dog.
No dog barks at “nothing.” The trick is to figure out what he’s barking at or develop a cue that reassures the dog, like “It’s nothing. I’ve got this.” Credit: Capuski | Getty Images

Every dog who barks has a reason for it. Why the dog is barking depends heavily on who your dog is as well as the context and the environment. Causes for barking at what appears to be “nothing” include:

  • Sounds that are not audible to humans
  • Smells that their sensitive noses detect but humans can’t
  • Boredom and attention seeking
  • Pain
  • Something they want
  • Anxiety

Determining the cause of barking depends on the individual context. I always talk to my dogs to tell them what was going on, and you should, too.  Expert Kathy Callahan, a Whole Dog Journal contributor, explains this beautifully in her article, “How to Talk to Your Dog,” clearly demonstrating how important this can be.

For example, I have categories for my dogs and dismiss them with an “I’ve got this” tone of voice. Years ago, I attended a seminar by noted dog trainer Pam Dennison. She taught us to name people seen by the dogs, like saying, “It’s just Uncle Fred” and sounding dismissive. It works wonderfully with my crew.

My categories include:

  • It means just that. It means, “You’re fine. It’s nothing.”
  • This is someone we will greet/who comes into the house.
  • A person we see regularly but don’t greet.
  • People we see in the neighborhood who are working, like mowing.
  • Vehicles with sirens.
  • A passing vehicle.
  • Any delivery person.
  • Not here. A sound that’s far away and safe.

This is a growing list of categories that I use to communicate with my dog.

Why Is My Dog Barking All of a Sudden?

Your dog has sensed something that our human senses cannot pick up on. It’s not nothing; it is an alert thing. When it happens, it happens. Some categories of things that cause your dog to appear to bark at nothing include:

Sounds: Your hearing will never be as astute as your dog’s.  Sometimes, it’s simply a matter of going to the door/window that your dog is focusing on. That sound may become vaguely audible to you or you might see a chirping squirrel that your dog can hear but you cannot. Dismiss this with, “It’s nothing.”

Smells: Scent is another thing that can fall into my “it’s nothing” category, if I cannot detect the source. It’s worked well thus far with my super sensitive adolescent livestock guarding dog. The trick is to sound confident that you have things handled and dismiss the thing with your voice. Follow that with some soft verbal reinforcement when your dog accepts your decision.

Boredom: It’s important to know how much enrichment, both physical and mental, that your dog needs every given day. All dogs are different. Age, activity level, intelligence, health, and fitness status need to be taken into consideration. Truly, all dogs need both mental and physical enrichment. The higher energy the dog, the more mental enrichment they need. Keep that in mind when determining the cause of the barking. Your dog may be bored and need to go for a walk.

Pain: If the barking is new, especially with no identifiable cause, consider pain. It’s never a bad idea to rule out a medical issue. Pain causes so much mental anguish in any sentient being.

Desire: Is their toy stuck, do they want to play, are they hungry, do they want to be closer to you? Look around and see what the context is. We humans spend so much time zoning out with electronics these days, we often miss things that are right there, like our dog needing help fetching his toy under the couch.

Anxiety: This is another potential cause where the context needs to be thoroughly looked at. Is your dog only barking at night? The dark can cause anxiety in some dogs, especially those who may be losing their sight or feeling vulnerable in some way. Sudden barking, especially at night, may also mean that they sense something going on outside that you haven’t.

Note: Barking at night or barking for no reason can also be a sign of canine cognitive dysfunction in  your dog, including the same sundowner’s syndrome that people get.

So, before you exclaim, “Why is my dog barking at nothing?” put your detective hat on and find the something. Then, start working on an “It’s nothing” cue that tells your dog you’ve investigated the problem, telling your dog everything is just fine.

The “Magic” Skunk Formula is Science, Not Magic…

By
Nancy Kerns
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7
These simple recipes provide a simple way to remove skunk smell from a dog.
These are all the ingredients you need to remove 98% of the skunk smell from your dog. If you have any cuts on your hands, wear gloves, because it stings! (And keep if out of the dog’s eyes, nose, and mouth for the same reason.) Photo by Nancy Kerns

Boone got skunked about a couple of weeks ago—and of course, it happened when I stayed up too late watching a movie and I was just about to go to bed. I had taken my foster dog out to pee one last time, hoping to sleep in a bit the next morning, and while I was waiting for her to “go,” Boone managed to find and engage a skunk in another part of our yard. It was a super bummer, because it would be another hour before I could actually go to bed and Boone would be receiving a cold-water bath outdoors, but it wasn’t as bad as it would have been if I hadn’t had two quarts of hydrogen peroxide in the laundry-room closet.

Decades ago, a chemist named Paul Krebaum (may his name be honored forever) cracked the chemical code of the stinky, sulfur-containing substances called “thiols” that are in the musk that skunks spray to defend themselves. According to an article first published in the Chicago Tribune in November 1994, Krebaum, who worked for a company called Molex Inc in Lisle, Illinois, wasn’t trying to solve the skunk-spray problem at the time. He was looking for a substance that could neutralize the smell of other thiols, which are also present in decomposing flesh and fecal matter. In an effort to neutralize foul-smelling thiols in his lab, Krebaum harnessed the power of oxidation, formulating a solution that changes the odorous thiols into odorless acids. He had been using the formula in his lab, but he shared the recipe with a workplace friend who had been complaining about the smell of his cat, who had been skunked. Soon, other scientists heard about the formula and it went viral!

 

The formula:

1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
¼ cup of baking soda
1-2 teaspoons of dish soap

Mix together in a bucket or large bowl and use immediately.

So simple and inexpensive! And so incredibly effective! But there are some tricks and cautions about how to use it on a “skunked” dog:

  1. You must not wash the dog with water before using the formula. Water will start to chemically alter the thiols and make their interaction with the “magic” formula slightly less effective.
  2. You have to use a fresh, unopened bottle of hydrogen peroxide. Using peroxide from a bottle that has been opened and sitting around will be less effective. (Note: You can’t mix this in advance and store it; if you try, you may end up with a huge mess in your under-sink cupboard or wherever you thought you could store it. The combination of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide off-gasses oxygen and can explode whatever container you try to keep it in.)
  3. If your dog gets skunked on a warm summer day, you are in luck! It’s easiest to keep the dog outdoors while you assemble the ingredients, a bucket, sponge, and a dog shampoo and towels to finish the job. But skunks are nocturnal, and are most active in spring and fall, so almost all of my dogs’ skunk encounters have happened late at night when it’s cold. A kind person would bring them in the house and straight to the bathroom for the de-skunking and post-formula bath—but just walking (or carrying) your dog to the bathroom is going to leave a strong skunk smell in the air of your house that the formula can’t remove! Poor Boone got a cold-hose bath outside. We were both shivering like mad by the time it was done.
  4. Mix the formula in a clean bucket and use a sponge or washcloth to thoroughly wet your dog from nose to tail with the solution. I recommend starting at the tail end of the dog and working your way forward, because you have to be extremely careful around his eyes, nose, and mouth and will want to rinse the formulas off these areas quickly (and, remember, water will weaken the effectiveness of the formula). The formula really stings if it gets in the dog’s eyes, nose, and mouth (or any cuts you or the dog have have), so you have to wipe it on the dog’s face carefully.
  5. You will notice that the skunk smell is dramatically reduced almost immediately on contact with the formula—but, with the exception of the dog’s face, let it remain in contact with the dog’s coat for at least a minute or two before rinsing the dog thoroughly with water. Knowing it can sting their lips and mouth, and because you cannot prevent them from licking their lips when you are sponging something wet onto to their face, I tend to take pity and rinse the dog’s face fairly quickly. (The skunk smell will disappear immediately, but if you don’t let the formula stay on the dog for at least a minute, it may become evident again any time the dog gets wet in the next few weeks. It won’t be as strong, but it will be apparent!) Rinse them thoroughly!
  6. Follow with a quick bath with whatever soothing, good-smelling dog shampoo you have on hand and rinse them well. It’s not necessary, but they are all wet already and the nice smell of the shampoo will be a balm for your irritated nostrils.

There are a number of commercial formulas that claim to be effective for removing odors (including skunk) from your dog, but honestly, I haven’t tried any of them for skunks, because why would I? This formula works great! You just have to make sure you have the peroxide on hand at all times, or you will be driving around town in the wee hours of the night or morning, looking for an open supermarket or pharmacy where you can buy quarts of peroxide, all the while your dog is stinking up whatever location you stashed him in while you went out. I’ve been there! And now I buy two new quarts on the day after whatever skunk incident we most recently suffered ( I double the recipe for washing either of my large dogs.)

For tips on reducing the skunk smell on your clothing, shoes, towels, deck or bathroom, and so on, see this document, prepared by the University of Nebraska, Lincoln Extension, Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources.

When to Choose a Dog Recovery Suit

By
Dan Muse
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0
A dog recovery suit can
A good dog surgery recovery suit covers the surgical area entirely, is comfortable for the dog to wear, and opens easily so the dog can easily potty. The best surgery suit is the one that fits your dog best. Cindy Foley photo.

A dog recovery suit puts the dreaded cone of shame to shame. That plastic Elizabethan cone that has been traditionally used to stop dogs from licking, biting, or scratching at wounds, surgical stitches, and skin irritations works, but it’s not comfortable. Dogs crash into chairs and corners and even other dogs and humans, just trying to walk through the house to get a drink of water! A dog recovery suit after a neutering or after a spay is not only less cumbersome for your dog, it is also more effective option than a cone. The downside? Cost. But our dogs are worth it.

A Dog Recovery Suit Is a Medical Garment

A dog recovery suit, sometimes referred to as dog surgical recovery suits, are form-fitting bodysuits designed to cover various parts of a dog’s body, like a onesie for humans. “These medical garments are typically made from lightweight, breathable fabrics that protect surgical sites, wounds, or skin conditions while allowing the dog to move naturally,” says Joanne Fernandez-Lopez, DVM, director of veterinary affairs at ABCs Puppy Zs, a breeder in Coppell, Texas.

Fernadez-Lopez says recovery suits provide several benefits over traditional collars and cones. “Unlike cones that can bump into furniture and doorways, recovery suits allow dogs to navigate their environment more easily. Many dogs find bodysuits less distressing than cones, as they maintain normal peripheral vision and movement.”

Why a Dog Recovery Suit

Dog recovery suits are not only more fashionable than those bulky collars, they also serve as almost a second skin and offer these benefits:

  • Fewer infections. By preventing dogs from licking or biting at wounds, recovery suits significantly reduce the risk of infections. This is especially important for surgical incisions and skin irritations.
  • Better wound protection. A clean and well-protected environment created by a recovery suit can facilitate faster healing. It prevents dirt and other irritants from reaching the wound. Using a dog recovery suit after neutering or spaying is particularly common.
  • Canine comfort. Recovery suits can help alleviate discomfort and anxiety for dogs recovering from procedures or injuries. The protective layer can provide a sense of security.
  • Protects sutures. For surgical procedures that involve stitches or staples, a recovery suit can help prevent them from being pulled or dislodged.
  • Wider coverage. Dogs can develop allergies and skin conditions such as dermatitis, and just as with humans, they can bring itchy, irritated skin. A recovery suit can help prevent them from scratching and further aggravating the condition.
  • Better healing. A dog recovery suit can also keep your dog away from hot spots, those circular areas of inflamed skin that can become infected, and allow them time to heal.

Suited for More Than Surgical Recovery

Beyond post-surgery and other medical conditions, recovery suits serve multiple purposes, according to Dr. Fernandez-Lopez.

  • Easing anxiety: “The gentle pressure can have a calming effect, like anxiety wraps useful during thunderstorms or fireworks,” she said, “They can also help reduce excessive barking and nervous behaviors.”
  • Alternative to diapers: Recovery suits can also help older dogs suffering from bladder control issues and offer protection for female dogs during heat cycles.
  • Regulating temperature: Dog recovery suits also offer protection from sun exposure, provide warmth for short-haired breeds, and offer post-grooming protection, according to Dr. Fernandez-Lopez.

Choosing the Right Recovery Suit

The best recovery suit for your dog will depend on their size, the nature of their injury or medical condition, and your pet’s comfort level. A variety of styles are available, including full-body suits, body wraps, sleeves protect one particular leg, and undershirts. (Be sure you purchase two surgery recovery suits for your dog, because you will need one for her to wear while the other is being washed and dried.)

When choosing a recovery suit, consider these options:

  1. Pick a size that allows the suit to fit snugly but comfortably, without restricting his movement.
  2. Look for a breathable, washable lightweight material to prevent your dog from getting too hot or experiencing any discomfort.
  3. Ease of pottying. Choose a suit designed to provide adequate coverage for the affected area while allowing for your dog’s needs, such as eating, drinking, and openings for bathroom breaks.

Note: Those with smaller dogs may be able to do a makeshift surgery recovery suit made out of a child’s onesie or even a makeshift T-shirt wrap for coverage. But, by and large, these improvised coverages will fail your dog’s teeth and persistent testing. With surgery suits for dogs starting at around $25, they’re truly the better bargain with far fewer accidents.

Dog Surgery Recovery Suits at a Glance

Note: Prices and sizes may vary.

Suitical Recovery Suit
Notable features: Its unique design allows for full mobility and comfort.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking, and allows for normal activities like eating and drinking.
Price: $28 and up

Shed Defender Recovery Onesie
Notable features: Its lightweight, breathable fabric and calming design.
Benefits: Protects wounds, reduces anxiety, and promotes healing.
Price: $30 and up

Calm Paws Calming Recovery Vest
Notable features: Its calming design and gentle pressure points.
Benefits: Protects wounds, reduces anxiety, and promotes relaxation.
Price: $30 and up

AmazonBasics Recovery Suit
Notable features: Its affordability and basic functionality.
Benefits: Provides basic protection for wounds and prevents licking.
Price: $25 and up

Surgi Snuggly
Notable features: Their wide size range and comfortable, stretchy fabric.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking and chewing, lightweight and breathable, allows for full body coverage in various sizes.
Price: $30 and up

BellyGuard – After Surgery Dog Recovery Onesie
Notable features: Its unique design that features a built-in sanitary pouch for female dogs.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking and scratching, built-in sanitary pouch for female dogs, comfortable and breathable fabric.
Price: $40 and up

VetMedWear Recovery Suit
Notable features: Its focus on veterinarian-recommended features and durability.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking and scratching, veterinarian-approved design, durable and washable fabric.
Price: $48 and up

ZenPet ZenDog Anxiety Vest & Recovery Suit
Notable features: Dual-purpose design; soft, flexible fabric and easy step-in design.
Benefits: Effective for both recovery and anxiety
Price: $39 and up

Medical Pet Shirt
Notable features: Cotton-based fabric; strong seam construction
Benefits: Available in multiple styles for different recovery and other needs.
Price: $28 and up

Medipaw Dog Surgery Suit   
Notable features: Two-piece design for bathroom breaks. Removable bottoms can be left off if this area does not require protection.
Benefits Protects wounds, prevents licking/scratching

Identifying Dog Hip Dysplasia

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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1
A hip dysplasia stance can be an early sign of hip dysplasia, but a dog's gait says more.
The puppy who didn’t get up to run with his littermates in this beautiful group of Golden Retriever puppies may be a suspect for hip dysplasia. Behavior like lagging behind or abnormally bad coordination is more telling than a hip dysplasia stance. Credit: Zuzule | Getty Images

Hip dysplasia in a puppy is an abnormally developed hip joint. It is very rarely caused by trauma to the puppy’s hip bone cartilage. In most cases, the puppy was born with hip dysplasia.

 

 

What Is Dog Hip Dysplasia?

The hip is a ball-and-socket joint. The head of the femur (the long bone below the hip) is the “ball” that should fit comfortably into the acetabulum, which is the concave “socket” on the pelvis. Ideally, these two areas develop, fit, and grow together, fitting neatly.

With dysplasia, the two parts don’t fit together tightly and fully. The femur head may be totally out of the socket of the acetabulum, or the acetabulum may be flattened to some extent, so it doesn’t “cup” the femoral head. In hip dysplasia, there is joint laxity that will contribute to the development of arthritis over time.

When Does Dysplasia Show Up in a Dog?

Severe cases of hip dysplasia may show up in a puppy as early as 4 months of age, but generally owners or veterinarians notice problems at 9 months to 1 year of age. Mild cases may not get diagnosed until a dog is even older, usually with clinical signs due to secondary osteoarthritis.

It can be difficult to identify a hip problem in young puppies, especially if the problem is mild. Puppies tend to move a bit galumpy, especially large and giant breeds, which tend to have the highest rates of hip problems. Some people think there is a puppy dog hip dysplasia stance, which is described as a narrow hind-leg stance, but the puppy’s gait, or movement, is a more telling sign of hip dysplasia.

How Do You Know Your Puppy Has Hip Dysplasia?

Limping is an obvious sign of dysplasia. If both rear legs are affected, however, the gait may appear normal but with a short stride. Within a litter, an affected pup may take longer to get up and get moving. He may be consistently left behind when the others take off running. His movement may appear “wobbly” or ataxic (kind of clumsy).

A puppy who tends to “bunny hop” frequently often has an orthopedic problem. (Many pups will do this occasionally but grow out of it.) You might notice that the pup does not stand square on all four feet but “off loads” weight on one hind leg. You can tell this by looking at the paws. Do they both look the same when standing on level ground? You can also see if your pup reacts the same when you go to pick up one hind leg versus the other.

Puppies with dysplasia often are less active due to soreness. An affected pup may have more trouble doing stairs than littermates. While most puppies don’t show acute pain, some will. Those pups may snap or cry if you touch or try to manipulate the painful hip joint. Astute owners may notice a difference in muscle mass between the two rear legs if only one hip is involved.

Veterinary Diagnosis of Hip Dysplasia

An x-ray or other veterinary testing can confirm hip dyslpasia where a stance or gait only indicates it.
This X-ray shows an 8-month-old puppy with hip dysplasia. Note the subluxation on both hips.
Credit: CatPaws | iStock

Ortolani Sign. Your veterinarian may be able to predict hip dysplasia by checking for the Ortolani Sign, which is a way for your veterinarian to grade hip laxity. This manipulation is based on a test done on newborn human babies. According to the American College of Veterinary Surgeons, “Many primary care veterinarians can perform this exam during the early age, 10 to 16 weeks, often done at vaccination or wellness exams. If the Ortolani Sign is not present, there is a false negative possibility that can be resolved by the quantitative PennHIP method.”

 

 

PennHIP radiographs. The PennHIP evaluation for puppy joint laxity can be officially done as young as 16 weeks of age. For definitive diagnosis, the PennHIP radiographs are the way to go. PennHIP requires general anesthesia or heavy sedation, some special equipment, and a certification process completed by veterinarians performing the procedure. A big advantage to this evaluation is that if joint laxity is conformed, the puppy has multiple surgical options available to minimize potential lifelong disability. Some of those surgical procedures are best done by a year of age.

OFA System. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, or OFA, is the best-known radiographic system for evaluating hips in dogs. This involves one film that is evaluated by three veterinary radiologists. A pup can have a preliminary report done at a year of age with a permanent evaluation done at two years of age.

Treatment for Puppy Hip Dysplasia

Owners of puppies with hip dysplasia have four surgical treatment options. These procedures should be done by board-certified veterinary surgeons as these are complicated orthopedic procedures. The future activity level of the puppy will vary with the procedure. Strict post-op care and rehabilitation will be important.

Mild cases of hip dysplasia. Luckily, most dogs with mild hip dysplasia do not require surgery for good quality of life. Diet and nutrition are extremely important. Puppies should not be allowed to get overweight and should be on a balanced diet suitable for puppies (with special consideration for large and giant breed puppies). Slow, steady growth is ideal. Moderate exercise is important as well. This means daily leash walking and low-impact exercise like swimming. You want to keep the affected joints from getting stiff from disuse but not overly strain them.

Rehab helps. If your veterinary clinic has a rehab department, it is ideal to work with them to come up with a program to keep your pup fit but not overstressed. That might involve exercises to do at home, use of a treadmill (dry or underwater), and a walking regimen. Avoid sports like leaping after a flying disc or agility.

Maybe to Supplements. Cartilage protection and joint supplements don’t have extensive clinical proof but, anecdotally, many of them help keep dogs with arthritis comfortable. Discuss which ones make sense for your pup with your veterinarian. Be aware that some dog foods already contain joint supplements, but the amounts included are rarely enough to be therapeutic.

NSAIDs for pain. For days when your pup is in pain, NSAIDS (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) may be needed for good quality of life.

Prevention of Hip Dysplasia

How can you avoid or prevent hip dysplasia? Start by getting a puppy with an extensive health pedigree for good hips—ask the breeder. This means his parents had hip evaluations, as well as aunts, uncles, grandparents, etc. While this is not a guarantee of good hips, since it is a polygenic trait with environmental influences, it is a great start.

Keep your puppy slim while growing up. Avoid high joint-stress exercise. That means no long runs, minimal trips up and down lots of steps, and no or minimal jumping while joints are still developing and growth plates have not closed.

How Much Does Dog Grooming Cost?

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
How much it costs to groom a dog varies by the type of dog and grooming needs.
The cost of getting a dog professionally groomed depends a lot on what services you are looking for. The more complex the haircut, the more expensive it will likely be. Credit: photokool | Getty Images

Some dogs look great and stay healthy with a good brushing and occasional bath while others need regular professional help. So how much does salon grooming cost and what can you do to make grooming more affordable?

Keep in mind that grooming costs can vary widely depending on factors such as:

  • Your dog’s breed, size, and coat type
  • Your location (regional area, city, suburbs, rural)
  • Your groomer’s training, experience, equipment, and grooming facility
  • Your dog’s coat condition and previous grooming experience

How Much Dog Grooming Costs on Average

Basic grooming sessions usually include a bath and brush-out, nail trimming, ear cleaning, and a simple haircut or trim. Based on size, nationwide averages for these basic dog grooming services are:

  • $30 to $50 for small dogs (up to 20 pounds)
  • $50 to $80 for medium-sized dogs (20 to 50 pounds)
  • $80 to $120 for large dogs (50 to 80 pounds)
  • $120 to $200 for giant breeds (over 80 pounds)

More extensive dog grooming services include a deep-cleaning bath, detailed haircut, anal gland expression, teeth brushing, or other specialized treatments. Comprehensive grooming packages average:

  • $50 to $80 for small dogs
  • $80 to $110 for medium-sized dogs
  • $110 to $150 for large dogs
  • $150 to $250 for giant breeds

Special dog grooming services add additional fees to basic prices. Examples include:

  • De-matting treatments that remove snarls, tangles, and mats ($10 to $100 extra depending on the coat’s condition)
  • Flea baths and flea treatments ($10 to $45 extra)
  • Medicated baths or specialized skin treatments ($15 to $45 extra)
  • Shed-control treatments (price depends on size and coat)
  • Stand-alone nail trims, which can often be done on a drop-in basis for an average fee of $15.

When to Go to a Professional Groomer

Professional grooming is most important when your dog has a complex coat, you don’t have time to perform thorough at-home grooming, or your dog has a skin condition that requires specialized care.

Keep in mind that prices vary by region. In general, grooming prices are highest in large cities and lower in rural areas. In addition, mobile groomers, who come to your home, are more expensive than groomers who work in salons. In the end, everything depends on supply (the number of qualified, experienced groomers and the services they offer) and demand (the number of dogs and owners needing their attention). For accurate estimates in your area, contact local groomers and grooming salons.

Grooming Factors to Consider When Getting a Dog

If you are shopping for a dog or planning to adopt one, start with an understanding of the different breeds’ grooming requirements. If you don’t enjoy brushing dogs (for some breeds it’s a daily requirement) or if you can’t afford frequent visits to groomers, think twice about living with a dog with a high-maintenance coat.

For example, Poodles, Shih Tzus, and Afghan Hounds—and mixes with similar coat types—cost from $50 to $200 per grooming session. These dogs often need monthly appointments. Similarly, breeds that are heavy shedders like Alaskan Malamutes, Siberian Huskies, and German Shepherd Dogs can be expensive to groom when the seasons change. In contrast, short-haired and smooth-coated dogs typically cost $40 to $50 for basic grooming.

How to Reduce Grooming Costs

If you have a puppy or adult dog who isn’t used to professional grooming, start with short training sessions that will help him relax and enjoy the experience. Do this with short, gentle, reward-filled brushing sessions, massage your pup’s paws daily, gently touch his face and head with the back of a spoon or spoon handle (this will help him relax around scissors), set your phone to vibrate and simulate the vibration of clippers, and encourage him to stand still for bathing and brushing.

Ask for meet-and-greet introductions to any groomer you’d like to try. In a few minutes, an experienced groomer can recommend grooming options, explain their fees, answer your questions, and help your dog feel comfortable in the salon.

Your groomer can recommend combs or brushes to use at home, how often to brush your dog, how often to bathe and with what products, and other suggestions for routine maintenance.

If your dog’s coat has tangles and mats, bathing may worsen them and trap moisture on the skin, potentially causing more problems. There is no simple way to remove mats and tangles without shaving the dog, though in some cases they can be picked apart. A professional groomer will know what approach to take.

Why Is Dog Grooming So Expensive?

Dog grooming most closely resembles human hair styling. If you have a favorite hair stylist or barber, you’re likely to schedule regular appointments, tip well, and develop a personal relationship. You respect your stylist’s training, experience, equipment, and efficiency. As groomer Lara Fasekas explains, “Dog grooming can cost more than a human haircut because there’s so much involved. It’s also more physically demanding because groomers have to lift and position dogs of all sizes. Dog grooming equipment has come a long way with the help of innovations that cost money, like belly straps that fasten to the groomer’s wall to keep dogs closer and help them feel safer. Quality scissors and clippers are serious investments, costing hundreds of dollars. In addition, there is a nationwide shortage of experienced groomers, and all of this adds to the cost of grooming.”

Can Dogs Get Cold Sores?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Can dogs have cold sores? Dogs can have CUPs a condition that is similar to cold sores.
CUPS can mimic regular periodontal disease, so an accurate diagnosis may be difficult initially.

Dogs can get a bump that looks like a person’s cold sore—that small crater-like ulcer on the inside of your lip. But, cold sores in humans are caused by the herpes simplex virus type 1, which cannot be transferred to or from your dog. (Dogs can get the canine herpes virus, but the symptoms more closely resemble a respiratory infection than a cold sore. The virus can also affect the eyes and genitalia.)

While dogs can get a variety of lip sores and red bumps, but one of the most common is chronic ulcerative paradental stomatitis, or “CUPS.” (It’s also sometimes called canine chronic ulcerative stomatitis.)

CUPS Looks like a Cold Sore

CUPS is a very painful lip-sore infection. Dogs with CUPS have inflammation on their gums, the inside of their lips, and possibly even on the roof of their mouths and their tongues. CUPS may cause small ulcers that look like a human’s cold sores.

The base cause of CUPS appears to be an overactive immune response to the bacteria that accumulate in the mouth, especially as plaque on your dog’s teeth. Even a small amount of plaque can lead to this intense and painful reaction. Some breeds seem to have a genetic predisposition to this problem, including Maltese, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Greyhounds, and Labrador Retrievers.

Symptoms of CUPS

Signs that might tip you off to a problem vary with the severity of the condition but can include:

  • Excessive drooling
  • Thick saliva
  • Lack of appetite
  • Doesn’t drink water
  • Abnormally bad breath

Some dogs will develop lip-fold pyoderma as a secondary problem. Your dog’s mouth will be painful, and he may resist you looking in his mouth or working at his dental hygiene. Your veterinarian may sedate your dog to do a thorough oral exam.

Tooth Removal for Lip Infection

Now comes the shocking part: The best treatment is to remove all the dog’s teeth in the affected areas.

This is a difficult surgery that may be split into two sessions as it can take hours. Many of the teeth are not openly diseased or loose but still need to be removed. If any teeth are left, they need to be thoroughly cleaned. They may need to be removed in the future, if the condition recurs. Ideally, a board-certified veterinary dentist would do the surgery.

Aftercare involves pain medications and antibiotics to help prevent any secondary infections. Your dog may need soft, room-temperature food for a bit. Once the mouth is healed, most dogs happily go back to their normal diet, even if it is dry kibble. Any sutures that were needed will dissolve.

CUPS can mimic regular periodontal disease initially. That means an accurate diagnosis may not happen right away. A referral to a board-certified veterinary dentist may be needed to get the definitive diagnosis.

Can I Give My Dog Tylenol?

By
Dan Muse
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A vet sits with an ill dog and provides comfort.
Never give your dog Tylenol. If your dog is in pain, you need to get a diagnosis from your veterinarian and a safe treatment. Credit: Zontica | Getty Images

Tylenol, or acetaminophen, is a go-to pain reliever for humans, but it can be deadly to dogs. Do not give your dog any Tylenol for any reason. There is no safe Tylenol dosage for dogs.

As much as we hate to see our dogs in pain, you can’t assume the pain relievers we take ourselves are effective, or more importantly, are safe drugs for our dogs.

The answers to the questions “Can I give my dog Tylenol for pain?” and “How much Tylenol can I give my dog?” are short and simple: No and none.

Pain should always be diagnosed by a veterinarian before treatment, and the veterinarian will advise you as to the best and safest way to treat pain in your dog.

Why say ‘no’ to Tylenol and Acetaminophen

While sometimes used in veterinary medicine for dogs under strict guidelines, Tylenol, a common over-the-counter pain reliever for humans, can kill your dog.

When ingested, according to the FDA, acetaminophen can cause severe damage in dogs including:

  1. Liver damage, the higher the dose, the worse the damage and risk of liver failure.
  2. Red blood cell damage, which causes these cells to lose their capability to carry oxygen throughout the dog’s body.

According to the American College of Veterinary Pharmacists (ACVP), “It is important to note that acetaminophen may be present in multi-symptom cold and allergy products.” Any accidental ingestions of one of these types medications should be reported to your veterinarian immediately. Early intervention can significantly improve the chances of recovery, so if you suspect your dog has ingested Tylenol/acetaminophen, contact your veterinarian or a pet-poison hotline, like:
• ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, a 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435

There may be a charge for these calls.

Signs and symptoms of toxicity, according to ACVP, include weakness, rapid breathing, shortness of breath, blue/purple discoloration of skin or mucous membranes, jaundice, vomiting, significant decrease in body temperature, and facial or paw swelling.

Alternatives to Tylenol

The FDA suggests that veterinarians advise clients about controlling dog pain with NSAIDs (nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), which include these approved-for-dogs drugs:

  • Carprofen (brand and generic names)
  • Deracoxib (Deramaxx)
  • Firocoxib (Previcox)
  • Grapiprant (Galliprant)
  • Meloxicam (Metacam and generics)
  • Robenacoxib (Onsior)

Consult our online guide to pain medications, “Dog Pain Medication: A Guide to Common Drugs,” by Dr. Jennifer Bailey, for more information.

While not as toxic as acetaminophen, these are prescription drugs, so follow your veterinarian’s guidance. Monitor your dog while he is taking any of the NSAID listed above and for a little while after he or she has taken it.

“Every year veterinarians prescribe millions of doses of NSAIDs for dogs with good reason — but many side effects occur. As a group, NSAIDs may affect the kidneys, liver, and gastrointestinal tract. The FDA lists reported side effects in dogs and cats as “vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, depression, and lethargy.”

Most of these side effects are mild, but serious side effects may occur, especially if the drug is not used according to the label. These side effect include gastrointestinal ulcers and perforations and kidney and liver problems that, in some cases, can result in death.

If your pet experiences more severe reactions (e.g., seizures, is unconscious or losing consciousness, or having difficulty breathing), take your dog to your veterinarian or emergency veterinary clinic, along with the bottle that the drug came from. And always keep both prescription and over-the-counter medications stored in a place your dog can’t access.

Do Humane Certifications Influence Your Dog Food Buying Decisions?

By
Nancy Kerns
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Ethical dog food is an increasing concern. Does it affect your pet food buying?
Evermore Pet Food just won an award for their exclusive use of chicken raised with the most stringent humane standards possible.

I received a press release recently from Evermore Pet Food, who makes one of the foods on our list of the best frozen commercial dog diets. Evermore’s products are are cooked (using a low-heat culinary methods [sous-vide]) in a human-food production facility and contain only “obsessively sourced” human-food ingredients. From the company’s inception, the founders committed to using only the most humanely raised food-source animals in their products.

This commitment was acknowledged last month by an organization called Compassion in World Farming with a “Better Chicken Award,” given in recognition of the company’s as the first commercially prepared food and second overall company in the world* to fully implement the Compassion in World Farming’s “Better Chicken Commitment (BCC).” This standard does more than just requiring chicken farmers to provide the potential for birds to go outdoors (making them “free-range” or “cage-free”); it more fully encompasses the environment the birds live in. This includes the density of the birds in their living area, referred to as “stocking space,” giving them more room to flap their wings and walk comfortably. The BCC calls for an enriched environment, with more light provided than standard “growing barns” provide (conventional factory farms keep the light low, to keep overcrowded birds calm), clean and dry substrate underfoot, as well as giving them roosts and elevated platforms to sleep on. The BCC also addresses the genetics of the chickens—promoting breeds that don’t grow so quickly that they are unable to stand when they reach slaughter weight—and humane slaughter methods.

Having grown up in Petaluma, California, once the “egg capital of the world” (and still home to many chicken and egg producers when I lived there), I have seen factory chicken farms. One of my best friends in high school lived in a rental house that was situated on the property of one of these farms, and not only was the smell and noise of the highly concentrated chickens evidence of the suffering we couldn’t see going on inside the barns, we regularly witnessed farm workers removing the birds that died in the barns before they were mature enough to harvest; their carcasses were horrible to behold, as sick and dying chickens often get attacked and maimed by their peers. The ones that lived didn’t look much better! We’d see them only when they were loaded into trucks (usually at dusk or dawn, when the low light kept them calm), but even these “healthy” birds looked awful, only half-feathered and with skin raw from ammonia burns—a side effect of living their entire but short lives in their own mess.

Anyway, I applaud any efforts made by food producers to buy and use humanely raised meat sources in their products—and wholeheartedly admire companies like Evermore. It’s awesome that they have managed to make a high-quality food for dogs at a price that is not out of line with their competitors, using ingredients that are demonstrably far better than just “cage-free.”

*By the way, Campfire Treats, located in a town not far from me, is the first company in the world to meet all the standards of the BCC. I’ll be checking out their dog treats soon!

Do humane certifications or humane claims influence your buying decisions? Please tell us why or why not!

Why Do Dogs Lick Wounds?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Dogs lick their wounds to remove dirt and other debris to help the wound heal.
While your dog licking a wound is a natural response that initially clears away debris, it is not the idea way to care for an open sore. Credit: LovelyDay12 | Getty Images

Dogs lick their wounds because licking helps remove dirt from the wound and relieve pain. In addition, dog saliva is mildly antibacterial.

The act of licking physically removes any debris that may be contaminating the wound. This can include dirt, rocks, plant matter, hair, glass, and even dead and damaged tissue. It can also physically remove some bacteria that may be in the wound.

Wounds hurt because the damaged nerves in the area send pain signals to the brain. While it may seem counterintuitive to touch a wound to provide pain relief, overloading the nerves can decrease the overall pain. Your dog licks his wounds for the same reason that we rub at cuts, bumps, and bruises.

Dog saliva is antibacterial, but only to a point. Studies have shown that it has a mild antibacterial effect on a few species of bacteria. Unfortunately, dog saliva also has other types of bacteria, which can in turn infect the wound.

Should I Let My Dog Lick His Wound?

No, don’t let your dog lick his wound. Proper first aid and veterinary care will do everything that licking can do, but better. Dogs also tend to keep licking past the point of benefit and can damage the wound further and prevent it from healing.

For small wounds, you can gently clean them at home with a clean cloth, water, and a diluted antiseptic such as chlorhexidine. You can also try a natural antiseptic like a vinegar rinse. Deep or large wounds will require veterinary care to fully clean them and remove any debris, plus determine if sutures are necessary to promote healing.

Your veterinarian can also prescribe safe pain medications for your dog. These might include both oral pain pills and a topical numbing gel on the wound.

Your veterinarian may also prescribe appropriate antibiotics that will be effective against all harmful bacteria that may have contaminated your dog’s wound.

What to Put on Dog Wounds to Stop Licking

To prevent your dog from licking a wound, you can:

  • Use an Elizabethan collar (cone) or similar device to prevent your dog from reaching the area
  • Use a T-shirt, surgery suit, or light bandage to cover the wound and prevent access
  • Spray something that tastes bad, such as Bitter Apple spray, on the area to deter your dog from licking

Remember that just because the wound has started to scab over doesn’t mean you can trust your dog yet. Scab formation can be itchy, enticing your dog to lick and chew at the area before it is fully healed.

Why Do Dogs Lick Human Wounds?

Our dogs can’t tell us why they try to lick our wounds, but it’s considered an instinctive response to an open wound. Dogs also lick us as a sign of affection or submission, and the act of licking releases the feel-good chemical serotonin in your dog’s brain.

Unfortunately, dog licking human wounds does not help healing. Just like our dogs, we are much better served by cleaning our wounds with proper medical supplies and seeking medical care for pain medications and antibiotics if needed.

Are Christmas Trees Toxic to Dogs?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Christmas trees aren't toxic to dogs, but they can still make a dog sick.
Cute as this photo is, the potential Christmas hazards to this puppy are numerous. Christmas trees are not safe for an unattended dog. Credit: Stefan Cristian Cioata | Getty Images

Chewing on Christmas tree branches can hurt your dog. While touching the tree here and there won’t harm him, ingesting the branches, needles, and/or sap can.

Signs that your dog may have tasted the Christmas tree:

  • Excessive drooling
  • Shaking head or pawing at mouth
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Irritated mouth
  • Not wanting to eat
  • Lethargy
  • Weakness

Dogs are more likely to experience stomach upset and other issues if they eat a large amount of the Christmas tree (or lick up a bunch of sap). Small dogs are, of course, at higher risk than big dogs.

If the Christmas tree sap or needles irritate your dog’s mouth, even a small amount can cause drooling and other signs of discomfort. This can also happen simply because your dog doesn’t like the taste.

Most mild symptoms should go away quickly. If your dog has diarrhea or is vomiting for more than a day, call your veterinarian to get medications to calm his system down.

The more concerning symptoms are ones that are more severe, such as both vomiting and diarrhea at the same time, muscle weakness, or symptoms that persist over time. Vomiting and diarrhea at the same time is an emergency due to rapid dehydration. If your dog has a poor appetite and doesn’t seem to feel well, he may have an intestinal blockage or perforation from the branches or pine needles. These problems will require surgery.

Pets Drinking Christmas Tree Water

Christmas tree water carries the risk of sap, but it can also contain worse things for your dog. These potentially dangerous toxins include fertilizer and preservatives intended to keep the tree alive longer, as well as bacteria and mold that can build up over time.

Avoid treating your Christmas tree’s water with any fertilizers, and if purchasing your tree off a lot, ask if it has been treated with preservatives. Change the water regularly to prevent buildup of mold and bacteria.

Note: Poinsettias and mistletoe are both toxic holiday hazards for pets.

Are Artificial Trees Safer?

Artificial Christmas trees have some of the same risks if our dogs chew on them. Older fake trees may shed needles, which your dog might eat. Your dog may also choose to chew on the branches. Eating part of an artificial Christmas tree can cause injuries in the mouth and/or an intestinal blockage.

How to Keep Dogs Away from Christmas Trees

Need to keep pets away from your Christmas tree? Try these tips:

  • Use a baby gate to keep pets out of the room with the tree
  • Use a short decorative fence to keep dogs away from the tree and presents (this will likely not deter cats)
  • Place fragile and tempting ornaments (fuzzy animals, balls, candy canes, popcorn strings, etc.) high up on the tree where your dog can’t reach
  • Crate your dog in another room when you can’t supervise him around the tree
  • Have plenty of fresh water available in the usual locations so your dog isn’t tempted to try to tree water
  • Cover the tree water with a tree skirt or other covering
  • Anchor the tree so it can’t tip over
  • Don’t “invite” your dog to every holiday gathering.

Do Fleas Die in Winter?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Fleas do not die in winter, they can withstand cold temperatures and hitch a ride on your dog.
Fleas can withstand cold winter temperatures, waiting to catch a ride on your unsuspecting dog. Credit: Roberto Machado Noa | Getty Images

Yes, dogs can get fleas in the winter. With the right conditions, dogs can still pick up fleas outside even in the winter. Freezing temperatures will slow down their life cycle, but there is still risk.

And your house is perfect for fleas all year round. Even if the outdoor weather is sufficient to eliminate fleas, every life stage will be nice and cozy in our warm homes that are complete with nooks and crannies to hide and hosts to feed on.

This is why indoor-only pets can get fleas, too. The initial flea might have hitched a ride on another pet or your clothing, or could have traveled from a neighboring apartment. And mice can bring fleas into our homes to infest our pets. And, yes, ticks are active in the winter, too.

The Flea Life Cycle

A flea’s life starts as an egg. Female adult fleas lay their eggs on their hosts and in the surrounding environment, so flea eggs can be both on your dog and in his bed, the carpet, your sofa… you get the picture. Eggs can hatch as soon as one day after being laid if the conditions are right. Other times they might incubate for 10 days before hatching.

When the egg hatches the flea enters the larval stage. Flea larvae live wherever their parents were hanging out, eating their feces (flea dirt) as well as blood. This stage lasts five to 20 days depending on the conditions.

Next the larvae spin protective cocoons and become pupae. Pupae are safe inside their cocoons and can stay like that for months. This is the primary stage that gets dog owners in trouble during the winter! You may think that all the fleas in your yard are dead because of the cold, but the pupae are still there, waiting for a warm day.

The adult flea waits to emerge from the cocoon until both the conditions are favorable, and a host (your dog) is nearby. All it takes is your dog lying in a pile of leaves on a surprise warm day in the middle of January to restart a flea infestation.

From there the adult fleas bite your dog to drink blood, mate, and lay eggs to continue the cycle.

Breaking the Cycle

If you find fleas on one of your pets, you will need to treat all pets in the household and your home itself for three consecutive months to break the cycle. Severe infestations may require longer if you miss some pupae when vacuuming and they hatch after you have stopped treating your dogs.

I usually treat my dogs and cat for fleas year-round. Even residents in the northern United States are seeing more popup days in the winter with temperatures above freezing. My dogs travel with me and attend dog shows, where they could potentially be exposed, and while my cat is primarily indoors, she does hang out on our screened porch. I would much rather prevent a flea infestation than have to try to eradicate one.

How To Identify a Dog Allergic Reaction

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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1
Swollen runny eyes are one way to identify a dog allergic reaction.
Swollen, runny eyes can be a sign that your dog is having an allergic reaction. Credit: Hugo1313 | Getty Images

Dogs can experience allergic reactions just like humans do. Often these are low-grade, chronic problems such as a food or pollen allergy, but dogs can have severe or anaphylactic reactions too.

Any time your dog is having difficulty breathing, it is an emergency and she needs veterinary care immediately. For mild allergic reactions, diphenhydramine (Benadryl) may be appropriate.

 

 

Allergic or Toxic?

Allergic reactions happen when your dog’s immune system overreacts to something that normally is not harmful. Toxicity, on the other hand, happens when your dog’s body is directly damaged by something harmful.

Many of the symptoms of toxicity and allergic reactions are the same, so it can be difficult to tell the exact cause of the symptoms.

If there is any chance that your dog consumed or came in contact with something toxic before she started showing her symptoms, contact your veterinarian or a pet poison hotline. Both of these services are superb:

Pet Poison Helpline (855) 764-7661

ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (888) 426-4435

These hotlines do charge a fee, but it gives you access to experts who know all of the latest details about what things are toxic to our dogs and how they can best be treated.

How Do I Know if My Dog is Having an Allergic Reaction?

Recognizing allergic reactions in dogs depends on what the dog is reacting to. Plants, bugs, household cleaners, and other chemicals are common causes of dog allergic reactions, but food and medications can also cause a reaction.

Dog allergic reaction symptoms include:

  • Red, irritated skin
  • Hives
  • Chronic itchiness
  • Sudden increase in itchiness
  • Itchy ears
  • Chronic ear infections
  • Runny eyes
  • Runny nose
  • Sneezing
  • Swelling
  • Difficulty breathing (severe)
  • Vomiting (severe)
  • Diarrhea (severe)
  • Pale gums (severe)
  • Abnormal heart rate or cardiac arrest (severe)
  • Collapse (severe)
  • Tremors (severe)

Severe allergic reactions can result in death.

Dogs who are allergic to something that they inhale from the environment or to a food item usually have generalized itchiness and skin irritation. Chronic ear infections are a classic sign of a dog with allergies. Even if your dog is being treated for allergies, she may have breakthrough reactions if she misses a dose of medication or if she gets a particularly big exposure. In most cases, these allergic reactions are not life threatening, but they can be annoying for both you and your dog.

When a Dog Allergic Reaction is an Emergency

A dog allergic reaction is an emergency if she has:

  • Difficulty breathing
  • Pale mucous membranes (gums)
  • Vomiting and diarrhea
  • Weakness or collapse
  • An abnormal heart rate
  • Severe swelling, especially if it does not respond to antihistamines
  • Unconsciousness

If your dog has any of these symptoms, contact an emergency veterinarian immediately. Your dog will likely need intravenous medications to stabilize her condition and prevent or treat anaphylactic shock, as well as supportive care to restore hydration and keep her comfortable.

What Can I Give My Dog for an Allergic Reaction?

If this is your dog’s first allergic reaction, or if it is more severe than previous episodes, we strongly recommend seeking veterinary care. Most allergic reactions that start out mild stay mild, but they can progress rapidly and put your dog in danger.

Antihistamines such as diphenhydramine (Benadryl), loratadine (Claritin), and cetirizine (Zyrtec) are safe for most dogs to temporarily alleviate allergic reaction symptoms. Call your veterinarian to get the right dosage for your dog. Always check the ingredients before giving any over-the-counter medication to your dog—avoid combination meds that contain multiple active drugs and avoid anything that has the artificial sweetener xylitol in the inactive ingredients, as these can be extremely toxic to dogs.

Diphenhydramine is typically given every eight hours until symptoms resolve or you have been able to get your dog to the vet’s office. This medication is generally very safe for dogs, but it is still always best practice to speak to a veterinarian before giving it to be sure it is appropriate for your dog.

For bug bites and stings, you can ice the area of the bite to decrease circulation in the area and relieve some of the discomfort and itchiness.

For contact allergies to something like a new laundry detergent or a floor cleaner, a bath with a gentle shampoo or with Dawn dish soap may be helpful to get the offending substance off your dog’s skin.

If your dog has previously been diagnosed with allergies and is experiencing a flare-up of her chronic symptoms, treat according to your veterinarian’s instructions. If you are out of meds and can’t get to the vet right away, a bath with an oatmeal shampoo can help to soothe irritated skin.

Even if your dog responds to treatment at home, touch base with your veterinarian to let them know what happened. She may be able to help guide you in identifying the cause of the allergic reaction or come up with a plan to prevent future reactions.

Common Canine Allergens

Flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) is a common allergy in dogs. These unlucky canines experience sudden, severe itchiness when even a single flea bites them. Dogs suffering from FAD often have red, bumpy, irritated skin, especially on the hind end. They may also have hair loss from all of the scratching and inflammation. Thankfully, FAD is easy to manage—treat all pets in your household for fleas year-round so that your allergic dog doesn’t get exposed to stray fleas. And be sure to treat the dog with FAD with a product that repels or kills fleas on contact and does not require a bite.

Household cleaners and chemicals usually cause reactions on the part of your dog that comes into contact with them. For these cases, your dog might have signs of a reaction on her paws, muzzle, side, or belly. For example, if she has an allergic reaction after lying on a bed washed in a new detergent, the redness and irritation will appear on parts of her body that touched the bed. Dog allergic reaction bumps may be itchy or may just show up as raised skin. Symptoms of the allergic reaction will go away once the dog is no longer exposed to the trigger.

Wasp stings, spider bites, and other bug bites typically cause localized reaction symptoms, but these can range from mild to severe. For example, one of my dogs gets big welts any time she is bitten by a bug. This is not an emergency, but it is uncomfortable for her.

Spider bites and severe reactions to wasp stings can cause dramatic allergic reactions in dogs, with severe swelling, difficulty breathing, itchiness, and even shock. The swelling from bug bite reactions is usually located right around the bite, but severe reactions can cause swelling throughout the body.

 

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Most trainers don't recommend adopting littermates.
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Don’t Adopt Littermates

Nancy Kerns 13
STOP! Don’t do it! Whether the idea of adopting two puppies just occurred to you, or you had been planning to adopt two all along, every trainer I’ve ever met would advise you to think twice and adopt just one. Because training and socializing littermates well is more than twice as difficult as training and socializing one puppy.
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