A few days ago, I read Jill Breitner’s post in a veterinary group about euthanasias that were stressful for both her and her pets. From the account, it would seem that the injection of the pre-sedative drug stung, causing a sudden panic reaction in the patient. While the procedures were uneventful after that point, the memory of the pets’ dramatic reactions haunted their guardian. (See “Pet Euthanasia Gone Wrong,” August 2017).
In more than 30 years as a veterinarian, I have heard of a number of accounts similar to this. In my career, though, I have dedicated my practice to using only low-stress techniques, especially at the end of life. This is the art of euthanasia.
The veterinarian did warn Jill that the injection of sedative might sting her pets, but she was completely unprepared for the degree of her pets’ reactions, which seemed aberrant and needlessly painful. And unfortunately, the pets’ startling reactions are a major part of the last memories she has of her animal companions.
It is not just the last breath. As a young veterinarian, I would wonder why owners would cling to their elderly dogs, asking only for a nail trim and refusing an exam. I finally asked one owner if I could examine her dog so I could help her
keep her pet healthy. She responded, “Okay, but don’t tell me I have to put my dog down.” I sincerely reassured her that this was not my agenda, and was finally able to examine the dog. As I worked, she shared the story of her previous pet’s euthanasia, and her fears about facing that event with her present senior dog. The grief-filled memory from 15 years earlier was ever-present in her mind, especially with her current senior dog.
Veterinary Industry in Transition
I didn’t have any training in euthanasia as a veterinarian. That may seem hard to believe, given that veterinarians may perform that procedure daily. All of my training came from on-the-job experience. Today, many vets receive training about client grief, and yet still learn little about the actual euthanasia procedure. Training in how to provide a peaceful relief of suffering is not standard in the veterinary educational system.
Pre-euthanasia sedation cocktails were first introduced by anesthesiologists in the 1990s. I attended a presentation on the topic in 1997 and never did a euthanasia without pre-sedation again.
At the North American Veterinary Conference in 2012, Dr. Dani McVety, founder of Lap of Love, a network of veterinary hospice providers, shared her euthanasia protocol, stressing the importance of a pre-euthanasia experience with no pain, reliable sedation, achieved with only one injection. She clearly defined the art of euthanasia. I felt good that my staff and I were already providing that care and had embraced it through our commitment to Low Stress veterinary practice.
The Patient Experience is Paramount
Providing a pain-free, smooth transition from awake, to asleep, then no longer alive, is not easy. The veterinarian and staff must have a plan for minimizing the patient’s pain, stress, and anxiety – before the appointment if possible. All thought must go to using drug mixtures that will not add to the patient’s present pain or anxiety. Drug delivery needs to be non-stressful to allow the body to respond in gradual relaxation.
That said, it’s important to realize that there is no single protocol or drug that will deliver this experience for every patient, under every circumstance. And in some practices, veterinarians and staff are held to strict protocols. In other practices, there may be a lack of understanding the holistic nature of euthanasia. Some pain with injection cannot be eliminated, yet one can choose the best route of administration to minimize this. Low-stress options include diluting injectable drugs, using local anesthetic creams to reduce the pain of injection, and using a butterfly needle rather than a catheter.
The setting for euthanasia is also not always the most calm. Yet the focus must be on a smooth transition from life to death, no matter what setting, age, or status of the patient. The best patient experience is what provides the best client experience. The last memory is always the one freshest in our minds and what we carry with us.
While I cannot make all euthanasia experiences perfect, I can take many steps and custom-tailor the products I use to each individual patient, in order to provide something as close to perfect as possible. I hope that the low-stress veterinary-care movement gains ground, and that education in the art of euthanasia becomes standard. Our patients and the people who love them deserve this.
Dr. Sally J. Foote is owner and head veterinarian of Okaw Veterinary Clinic in Tuscola, Illinois. Dr. Foote’s certifications include Low Stress Handling Silver Certified, Fear Free Professional, and Animal Behavior Consultant by the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. Dr. Foote is also currently the President of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior and the Executive Director of CattleDog Publishing, the legacy of Dr. Sophia Yin.
Thanks very much for the many compassionate messages of support and sympathy for the tragic loss of Tito and my former foster dog, Ruby. Many readers commented on the post I wrote on the Whole Dog Journal blog page about the incidents that led to the dogs’ deaths (one as a result of injuries, and one by euthanasia) – and many readers told their own heartbreaking stories dog-aggressive dogs that they loved and tried to rehabilitate. It’s impossible to refrain from blaming oneself for the many missteps that we can’t help but take when trying to manage such an unmanageable situation, but it helps to know that none of us are the only ones who have experienced it.
Speaking of euthanasia, this issue contains an important article about the emotional rending practice, and things to consider before making this final veterinary appointment for your terminally ill dog. While seeking a painless and peaceful end for two geriatric pets, trainer Jill Breitner had not one but two terrible experiences with a practitioner who claimed to practice “fear free” medicine. Breitner explains how to find a veterinarian who truly practices Fear Free or Low Stress handling, and why it’s critical to employ one of these professionals at the end of your dog’s life.
It shouldn’t come as a surprise to any of you that life with dogs is highly emotional. Our canine companions can make us laugh hard and cry hard, sometimes on the same day! But I, for one, wouldn’t trade my time with them, even the difficult ones, for anything else in the world. I’ve learned so much from working with them – and there is always more to learn. This month, I’m taking Training Editor Pat Miller’s article on “demand behaviors” to heart in order to deal with a budding problem with Woody’s newfound attention-seeking behavior. I feel just like any other dog-training student as I fail, again and again, to ignore his repeated efforts to engage me; he’s just so cute!
Euthanizing any pet is emotionally difficult. You know what’s going on, and the pet doesn’t; there is a lot of guilt around that. Even when the animal has been suffering, and is likely to suffer far more if you chose not to arrange for this humane assistance, most of us feel at least a little bit of guilt about bringing our friend to the vet (or a housecall vet to our pet) for that final visit. You may be experiencing anticipatory grief and sadness. You may also be feeling doubt: Is this really the time? Did we do everything we could?
I’ve attended the euthanasia of a number of animals, my own, and those who belonged to friends or relatives who felt they couldn’t be present. I’ve been present for the euthanasia of dogs and cats, my family milk cow, and several horses. It was wrenching emotionally every time – and yet, every single time, the process went smoothly. Every veterinarian who has helped my animal friends pass from consciousness has induced this calmly, professionally, and with great sensitivity. Given the difficulties with the medical or behavioral problems and trauma that necessitated each euthanasia, I couldn’t be more grateful to the veterinary professionals who provided this valuable service.
But I guess I’ve been fortunate; I’ve never been present for a “bad” euthanasia. It stands to reason that the drugs can’t always affect all animals they are administered to exactly the same way. Every drug can cause a bad reaction, or be ineffective, in some individuals. And not all vets or vet techs are equally skilled at handling pets (especially pets who are in pain); not all are kind and empathetic.
In the August issue of WDJ, we’ve published accounts of two unpleasant euthanasia procedures – events that have left the owner involved feeling traumatized and guilty – and a discussion of how to do the most you can to ensure that your pet’s final vet visit is without fear, pain, or trauma. Of course, you can’t control the experience; you can only choose the veterinary hospital and veterinarian with whom you feel most comfortable, and then you have to sort of hope for the best: a calm, pain-free passage from this life to whatever comes next. The article offers a lot to think about, and a lot to ask your veterinarian, before scheduling an appointment for euthanasia.
Did you ever experience a traumatic event during the euthanasia of one of your pets? Was there anything you would have done differently?
We subjected the most
appealing balls on
the market to serious
Lab tests – well, a
serious Lab/pit bullmix. Some of the balls
were destroyed in the
process. Others were
ignored entirely. The
winners were chased
and chewed intensively
– and have survived for
months.
Not long ago, I took a walk with my dogs, a friend, and her two dogs. Three of the four dogs trotted ahead of us in happy exploration. The fourth dog is a “fetch addict” – the kind who focuses all his attention on two things: a ball, and any nearby human who looks like she might throw the ball. He’s either chasing a ball, bringing it back, or imploring his human companions to “Throw it! Throw it! Please throw it!”
But I was distracted by keeping track of the dogs, conversation with my friend, and the gorgeous nature all around us, and I somehow managed to fling the ball in a crazy direction into some waist-high grass. It went so off-course that Woody, my Lab/pit bull-mix – you knew he was the fetch addict, didn’t you? – completely missed seeing where the ball flew or landed.
I apologized to my friend, telling her I’d have to interrupt the walk to help Woody hunt for the errant ball. After a few minutes of searching through the field of weeds, my friend asked, “Is it really that important that we find it? I have dozens of old tennis balls I can give you . . .”
“YES we have to keep looking!” I told her. “It’s a $17 ball!”
To which she responded, “How on earth can a stupid ball possibly be worth that much?”
Please allow me to count the ways!
Quality Dog Toy Buying Criteria
When we buy dog toys of any kind, we’re looking for a few traits:
1. Some irresistible quality that attracts the majority of dogs they are offered to
2. Durability, so they last long enough to pay for themselves in terms of the number of hours that they kept the dog happy and occupied
3. Safety, so they pose very little or no risk when used as directed
We don’t always consider the cost of a thing. Of course we want a decent value, but that’s from a durability standpoint, not just the price tag. We agree that $17 sounds like a fortune to spend on a ball. But given that some far less expensive balls don’t last 10 minutes, we consider $17 to be a bargain for a ball that lasts for months and months of only lightly supervised chewing, and consistently provides hours of entertainment.
And, yes, we consider Woody’s favorite ball, the $17 one we spent 15 minutes looking for in waist-high grass, to be a fantastic bargain.
Balls are the Best for Fetch
Not all dogs who like to play with balls like to fetch; some dogs just like to walk around mouthing their favorite toy, or pushing balls around the house or yard with their noses. Fetch addicts like Woody often regard balls as the fetch item of choice. Flying discs have their proponents, but balls offer certain advantages over other toys and fetch items:
- They usually have some bounce, providing opportunities to leap and catch them in the air.
- Being round, they roll, so a smart dog can find ways to amuse himself when no one else will play fetch with him, by dropping the ball down stairs, off the sofa or porch, or down a slope outdoors. Similarly, they can be batted with a paw and made to roll under furniture, giving a dog a great excuse to ask his owner for help (and maybe, just maybe, getting an extra throw out of the deal).
- Balls fly well through the air – not as well as discs, to be sure, but better than sticks or retrieving dummies, especially if a dog is lucky enough to have an owner with a Chuckit! or other ball-throwing assistance device.
- Balls often have a great “mouth feel,” and are fun for many dogs to just mouth, chew, or carry around.
Types of Balls We Were Looking For
When we started collecting balls to consider for our review, we realized there are many more types of balls than we could possibly include in a single review. We limited our selection to balls that could be thrown easily for dogs who like to fetch; we also included balls that had a little something extra to offer – additional features that engaged our test dogs and made them want to play with the balls even when no one else was playing fetch with them.
What are those “extra” features? Some of the balls have squeakers; one has crackly material inside. Most have a little – or a lot – of flex; you don’t want a dog leaping up to catch a ball that is hard enough to break teeth. We tested one ball that glows in the dark and one that has a light inside for use at night.
We didn’t include soft, stuffed (fleece-type) balls, nor balls whose primary purpose is to dispense treats. Note that a few of the balls we included could have treats inserted in them, but this isn’t the primary design purpose of the ball.
It should be noted that we were looking for balls for medium to large-size dogs. While there certainly are toy and small dogs who like to play with balls, selecting safe, appropriate balls for them to play with is not quite as critical, since their jaws are usually nowhere near as powerful as those belonging to larger dogs. In other words, it’s much easier to find toys for them to play with that they can’t chew up.
Many of the balls we selected for testing can be thrown with the help of a ball-flinging tool such as the Chuckit! or Planet Dog’s Wood Chuck. The Wood Chuck comes in only one size, and is designed to fling balls that are 21/2 inches in diameter – the same size as those used in classic Chuckit! launcher. Chuckit! is also available as a “large” ball launcher, meant to accommodate balls that are up to three inches in diameter. (We’ve noticed that it takes extra effort to jam these larger balls into the cup before flinging; they don’t fit quite as nicely as 2 1/2-inch balls fit into the Classic Chuckit!)
Safety First
It has to be said that playing with toys is an inherently risky activity for a dog. If there is a way to swallow something they shouldn’t, get some part of their anatomy stuck in something and hurt themselves, or get so swept up in play that they run into something, they will. Safety guidelines for playing with balls should include:
• Make sure your dog has access only to balls that are too big for him to swallow. If a ball seems a little small in your dog’s mouth, it probably does pose a choking or swallowing risk.
• Supervise your dog when he’s playing with any ball. Many products can be chewed up; if the pieces are swallowed, they pose a risk of choking or gastrointestinal problems (“just” vomiting if you’re lucky; blockages or perforation if you are not).
• We worry about products made from materials that may not be safe for dogs to chew on or swallow. For this reason, we prefer to buy balls that are manufactured in the U.S. and made with chemically inert materials. Not being able to find out what a ball is made of is a red flag.
• Watch that bounce! Play fetch with your dog only in areas where he isn’t at risk of following a bad bounce into a street or into a river with a swift current.
2017 Toy Ball Reviews
DOG BALL RATINGS AND REVIEWS
4 paws=As good as it gets. We strongly endorse the product.
3 paws=A good product, with one or two significant flaws.
2 paws=The product has some value, as well as some serious flaws. Some of its features may be useful in certain applications.
1 paw=We are including the product only because of its potential for improvement.
0 paws=The product has no redeeming value that we can appreciate.
PRODUCT
RATING
PRICE
SIZES
NOTES
Orbee-Tuff Squeak Ball Planet Dog Westbrook, ME
(800) 381-1516
$17
3″
Patent-pending squeaker is molded into the center of the ball. Recyclable and free from latex, BPA, and phthalates. Material contains a small amount of essential peppermint oil for a subtle minty scent. Made in the U.S.
Orbee-Tuff Recycle Ball Planet Dog Westbrook, ME
(800) 381-1516
$15
3″
Made from recycled bits of Orbee-Tuff material left over from molding other Orbee-Tuff toys, and recyclable themselves. Soft and squishy and yet exceedingly durable. Hollow and light, so it’s challenging to throw as far as some of the other balls. Made in the U.S.
Chuckit! Max Glow Ball Petmate Arlington, TX
(877) 738-6283
$4 – $11
Small=2″ Medium=2.25″ Large=3″ XL=3.5″
Very durable hollow ball; stiffer than the Orbee-Tuff toys but still squishable in the dog’s mouth. Glows in the dark for about 20-30 minutes after only about 5 minutes of exposure to light. Manufacturer says it’s made of rubber. Made in Vietnam.
This ball is made of two pieces, one glued inside the other. The squeaker is built into the center of the ball; it’s not a separate piece that can be removed. Our test dogs were unable to destroy or disassemble this ball. Made in China.
Kong Squeezz Crackle Ball The Kong Company Golden, CO
(303) 216-2626
$3 – $5
Medium=2.5″ Large=3″ XL=3.5″
This ball is made of more than two pieces, one glued inside the other and containing some sort of crackly material in the center. Our test dogs were unable to destroy or disassemble this ball. Made in China.
Large size is too big for launchers like the Chuckit!, and is kind of heavy; we wouldn’t want a dog to get knocked on the head with an errant throw of this ball. This would be a great ball for a very large dog who ordinarily chewed up his toys; it’s too big to be easily chewed – and guaranteed against damage! Recyclable, BPA-, latex, and phthalate-free, non-toxic, FDA-compliant. Made in the U.S.
Rhinoplay Beast GoDog (a subsidiary of Worldwise, Inc.), Novato, CA
(415) 721-7400
$10 – $13
Jr.=3.5″ Large=5″
Junior size is difficult to find; large is too big for any except large dogs to pick up and carry. Very lightweight, unique, dense foam material. Ball is too lightweight to be thrown far – and yet very durable. Made in Taiwan.
These balls are not really for fetch, but are semi-soft, self-inflating, balls for play. They can be punctured and will still inflate. Company says its products are non-toxic and recyclable. Made in the U.S.
Chuckit! Firefly LED Ball Petmate Arlington, TX
(877) 738-6283
$11
2.5″
It’s difficult to get the lights in the ball to turn on; fortunately, they turn off by themselves after 20 seconds of no movement. Very bright and fun to play with at night (on grass or other soft surface). Made in China.
Bouncy yet squishy ball, made to fit in Chuckit! ball launcher. Dogs loved its squeak – but material was not durable enough to last beyond the first hour of play and chomping. Made in Vietnam.
Outwardly, very similar to Orbee-Tuff balls: hollow and squishy. But the inexpensive material it’s made of is not at all durable. Calling it a “treat ball” is a stretch; it’s no more so than a number of the balls here.
Squeaky Ball Ruff Dawg Worcester, MA
(800) 772-3726
$6
3″
Package calls it a “super tough toy” – it didn’t last one minute with our test dog. Made in the U.S. of non-toxic, recyclable material, a thermoplastic polymer. Made in the U.S.
Top Pick Dog Balls
The balls that rose to the top of our review are ones that survived months of playing by fairly aggressive chewers without much more than cosmetic damage – and that the dogs themselves returned to play with again and again. There were a few balls included in our review that the dogs almost never selected to play with; for some reason, they were less engaging than the others. We retained these in the review and noted which ones they were; dogs with different preferences may enjoy them, though owners should take note that these toys were not tested as severely as the ones that got chewed daily.
The unequivocal favorite of all our test dogs is the Orbee-Tuff Squeak from Planet Dog. As the name suggests, this ball has a squeaker inside it, and after months of playing and chewing, not a single squeaker has been silenced nor chewed out of any of the balls. Planet Dog rates this ball as “durable” and we’d have to concur. It’s nothing short of amazing, really – hence our stubborn refusal to let a badly thrown ball go missing.
In addition to squeaking, the Orbee-Tuff ball bounces, floats, and is soft enough for a dog to enjoy mouthing and squishing for hours and hours. It’s made in the U.S. of a nontoxic material that is free of latex, BPA, and phthalates. It comes in just one size, a Chuckit!-compatible 21/2 inches.
Get this: All of Planet Dog’s balls, including the Squeak, are guaranteed. If they get chewed or destroyed, or if your dog doesn’t like them, you can return them for a replacement or a refund. Squeak!
At first glance, the Orbee-Tuff Recycle ball doesn’t seem like anything special. It doesn’t squeak or “do” anything unique. It’s a very soft, squishy, hollow ball – and all of our test dogs loved mouthing it like it was bubble gum. Because it’s so soft, it’s a great ball for catching in the air; it wouldn’t hurt any dog even if it bonked him on the head. At the same time, it’s incredibly durable. We have one of these balls that’s more than two years old and still hasn’t been chewed up.
The Recycle ball is so named because Planet Dog makes it from scraps of material left over from the other Orbee-Tuff toys; the material is melted down and mixed together, eliminating any waste. We applaud the earth-friendly approach! Like the other Orbee-Tuff toys, it’s free of latex, BPA, and phthalates, and can itself be recycled.
This is a relatively lighter-weight ball, so it’s difficult to throw as far as some of the heavier balls.
Chuckit! Max Glow
The Chuckit! Max Glow ball is also a chompable hollow ball, but the material it’s made of is a little stiffer than the Orbee-Tuff products, providing a bit more resistance to being squished in the dog’s mouth and flying farther when flung or thrown. It’s still quite durable, however; none of our test balls received any damage.
Obviously, the Max Glow is a great choice for playing fetch at dawn, dusk, or even at night. It “charges” fully with only about five minutes’ worth of exposure to a light source, and glows brightly enough to be easily found in the dark for 20 to 30 minutes. It comes in four sizes, with the smallest suitable for small dogs.
Best Toy Balls Runner-Up
This is Kong‘s version of a squeak-removal-proof squeaky ball. It’s made of two pieces that are glued together, with the squeaker molded into the center. This makes it sounds like it could be chewed apart, but none of our test dogs were able to do so.
This ball is a little stiffer and heavier than the Chuckit! Max Glow, so it throws nicely, but it’s still hollow and squishable enough to be squeaked to your dog’s delight. And it keeps squeaking even if the ball is punctured!
We love how Kong constantly innovates new products and supports the dog-training community. On the other hand, the Squeezz and the Squeezz Crackle are made in China, which we’re not wild about.
The Squeezz Crackle is also a squishable, hollow ball made of pieces that are (fortunately securely) glued together. The material has glitter of some kind embedded in it, and the center of the ball has some sort of crackly material inside. Kong says the material is “durable and nontoxic.” If our dogs were to chew this ball open, we’d remove it from them quickly. Fortunately, none were able to puncture it.
Kong Squeezz Crackle
The Squeezz Crackle is lighter and squishier than the Squeezz Squeak, and all of our test dogs enjoyed chomping on it.
West Paw Design offers a lot of interesting and beautiful products for dogs, and this is one of our favorites. Zogoflex is West Paw Design’s proprietary blend of recyclable plastic; Zogoflex Air is less dense than Zogoflex; it’s slightly squishy and lighter, making it safer for a dog to catch in his mouth than Zogoflex.
West Paw says the material is latex-, BPA-, and phthalate-free, FDA compliant, and non-toxic.
Zogoflex Air Boz
It’s also highly durable. Our test dogs did their best to puncture or chew a piece off of this solid (not hollow) ball. After months of play, the ball has some tooth punctures in it, but is otherwise still intact. The ball is made in the U.S. and is guaranteed against dog destruction.
Rhinoplay Beast
We first saw Rhinoplay toys at a pet products show last summer. We absolutely loved their light weight and unique, puncture-proof material. The company claims the foam is environmentally safe and nontoxic, and guarantees the product. If your dog doesn’t like it, or destroys it in a fit of enthusiasm, the company will replace it.
But even the small-sized ball is too big to fit into a ball launcher, and both balls are too light to throw very far, so neither is a great prospect as long-distance fetch items.
That said, our big test dogs really liked batting the toys around the house.
Jolly Ball‘s Bounce ‘n Play holds a similar appeal; it’s a hollow, semi-soft ball that can be punctured again and again but re-inflates by itself. It’s not really a good candidate for playing fetch, but the big dogs enjoyed knocking it around the house.
Easily Destroyed Balls
Then there were the balls that our test dogs really enjoyed – for a few minutes apiece. They are shown in the photo on the right, going clockwise from the left side.
• Chuckit! Firefly LED Ball: Just a few chomps, and the cap protecting the battery and light inside this ball had popped off. Once it was put back together, it was fairly difficult to get the light to turn on. It does light up beautifully, and is great for fetch on grass at night. If it bounced on hard ground, though, it’s likely the cap would fly off and you’d never find the pieces.
• Chuckit! Ultra Squeaker Ball: The squeaker was removed and the ball chewed up within an hour.
• Grinz Treat Ball: All the dogs liked the squishiness of this ball, but it had no durability whatsoever. It, too, lasted about an hour.
• Squeaky Ball: A super lightweight ball that might be fun for the very smallest canine fetch-fans out there. Our bigger dogs flattened it within a minute.
Nancy Kerns is the editor of WDJ. Her dog Woody chewed up all the balls shown here (and more).
If your dog has learned to scratch at the door to get you to let him in or out, he can easily learn to do some other behavior – one that’s more acceptable to you – to communicate his need to enter or exit. This time, you will teach him what behavior will get him the result he wants.
DEMAND BEHAVIORS IN DOGS OVERVIEW
– Reframe your thinking about “demand behaviors” so that you can value your dog’s attempts to communicate with you.
– Teach your dog a more acceptable “ask” behavior to avoid frustration for both of you.
– Teach your dog a “That’ll do” cue so you can communicate clearly to her that it’s time to stop asking – for now.
Your dog wants another treat. She barks at you, her shrill voice grating on your ears like fingernails on a blackboard. You’re typing at your computer and your dog wants you to toss her beloved tennis ball. She nudges your arm persistently with the treasured yellow orb clenched firmly in her jaws, and paws at you when you ignore her nudging. Your dog needs to go out, and you hear her scratching at the back door, adding new gouges to your recently repainted door frame.
These are demand behaviors, often regarded in the dog world as annoying and inappropriate. But what if we looked at them from a different perspective?
A dog’s demand behavior is her effort to communicate her wants and needs to you. Her demand behaviors increase in intensity because she is frustrated when she doesn’t get what she wants. Imagine how frustrating it would be to keep asking for something and have someone deliberately ignore your requests. No wonder she gets frustrated!
When you think about it, it is a true marvel of our unique relationship with the canine species that they are able to communicate so effectively with us, and we with them. Rather than spurning this gift, perhaps we should value and appreciate our dogs’ attempts to make the world work for them – a world in which they often have very little choice or control.
“The power to control one’s own outcomes is essential to behavioral health.” This compelling quote is from Dr. Susan Friedman, faculty member in the Department of Psychology at Utah State University. (See “Training a Dog to Make Choices,” November 2016.) Susan is an outspoken advocate of changing behavior through facilitation rather than force. With this quote in mind, I propose we reframe our perception of demand behaviors in order to give our dogs more power to control their own outcomes. Instead of calling these behaviors annoying, we could look at them as invaluable communications with potential to enhance the behavioral health of our canine family members, and figure out how to facilitate those communications.
Does that mean we have to always give our dogs everything they ask for? Not at all. It means that we need to give our dogs an acceptable forum for communicating their wants and needs. And we must also be clear about when we are not willing or able to give them what they want, in order to teach them to stop asking when we have signaled “Not right now!”
Let’s look at how this communication could work for demand behaviors like scratching at the door, pawing, nudging, and barking. Then we’ll discuss how to install the “off” switch.
Scratching at the Door
Many dogs learn this behavior as a way to communicate to their humans that they need or want to go outside. It’s important to make a distinction between the two.
Years ago, I had dinner with a friend whose blue heeler, Ranger, scratched at the door to go out – or come back in – literally every three minutes throughout the entire dinner. There is no way this dog had to eliminate that often, but to my friend’s everlasting credit, she calmly got up and let him out – or in – every time he asked. Annoying indeed, but my friend never raised her voice or refused her dog’s request. After dinner, he settled calmly on the living room rug as we chatted.
Some years ago, the dog training world came up with the idea of teaching dogs to ring a bell when they wanted to go out, thus saving thousands of door frames from potty-request damage. Humans who teach their dogs this behavior can now proudly boast of their dogs’ brilliance and bell-ringing prowess. That alone, however, would not have forestalled Ranger’s frequent door requests. Some humans know their dog’s elimination schedules, and just don’t respond to the bell when they know the dog is “playing” them to go out. That risks frustration on the dog’s part, as well as the possibility of human error, with a serious consequence of not letting the dog out when she really does have to go.
What if, instead, you taught your dog two different cues – one that means “I have to go to the bathroom,” and one that means “I want to go out and play”? They are, after all, two distinctly different behaviors!
You can stick with the bell-ringing behavior as your dog’s potty-break cue, and use a different mechanism altogether, such as a buzzer or talking button (such as the Staples “Easy” button), for the play-break cue. Or simply acquire two bells that look and sound very different, one for potty and one for play. To make it easiest for your dog, you could install the potty bells at one door, and your second sound device – let’s say a buzzer – at a different door.
Staples sells a touch-activated button that all but very small dogs can press to make it exclaim, “That was easy!” in your choice of 12 different languages. Tiny dogs have better success with a classic “call bell” – the sort of thing you’d find on a hotel’s front desk. Wireless, battery-operated doorbells are an even better choice if your house is large; you can stick the adhesive-backed button literally anywhere that’s convenient to your dog, and put the ringer in a central part of the house, so you can hear it from anywhere.
First, teach your dog how to activate each sound device by shaping her to touch them with a nose or paw. (For more information about shaping, see “Shaping Your Dog’s Behavior,” January 2017, and “Methods to Produce Better Behavior,”August 2014.) Then add your verbal cue – a different verbal cue for each sound device.
Say, “Want to go potty?” (or whatever phrase you plan to use), and encourage her to ring the bells. A jingle gets a verbal marker and an escorted trip outside to her favorite bathroom spot. (I use “Yes!” as my verbal marker – but you could say “Click!” if the word “yes” creeps into your vocabulary too often, which could weaken its power as a marker.) When your dog eliminates, click, treat, and praise, and take her back inside.
When she is doing this easily, hang the bells at her potty door, and gradually ask the question from farther and farther away, until she gets the idea of going to the bells herself from anywhere in the house to ask to go out.
Meanwhile, add your cue for the play buzzer, by saying “Want to go out and play?” and encouraging her to activate the buzzer. When she does, give your verbal marker and take her out for a round of her favorite game – fetch, chase, dig, or whatever she loves. Sometimes you can just let her out to play on her own, assuming you have a safely enclosed yard.
Again, when she is doing the behavior easily, attach the buzzer near the play door and gradually increase distance until she will go to the buzzer on her own to ask to go out.
Now you’re ready to add the “off” switch. (See “Install an ‘Off Switch’ on Playtime“.) If she buzzes to go out to play, you can let her out to play or, if it’s not a good time or you think she’s been out enough, use your “That’ll do!” cue to let her know that there’s no point in asking again. You can also do this with the potty bells, but only if you are absolutely sure she doesn’t really have to go out. Err on the side of generosity with this one, but if you routinely take her out, wait for her to go, click, treat, and then bring her back in, she’s less likely to give false signals with the potty bells.
Barking, Nudging, and Pawing
Dogs bark for a lot of reasons, but when they are barking at you with “that look” in their eyes, it’s usually because they want something from you. This behavior can be particularly unwelcome because the repetitive barking can be quite annoying – to your neighbors as well as to you. Persistent nudging and pawing tend to not disturb neighbors, but can still be bothersome when you are trying to focus on something else.
Nudging for attention can be quite annoying, especially when you’re engaged in some other activity that involves your hands, like typing on your computer, drawing, painting, or embroidery. Reinforce your dog generously for performing a behavior that is incompatible with nudging. Photo by Pat Miller
As with scratching at the door, your first line of defense for these behaviors is to teach your dog a more polite way to ask for what she wants, whether that’s a treat, a toy, or your attention.
If you want this to work, you will need to be sure to be observant so that you see and can reinforce the new “ask” behavior a good percentage of the time. If you don’t, she’ll likely revert to the old barking, nudging, and pawing – because those almost always work to at least get your attention. It’s hard to ignore a dog who is barking in your face, or putting long scratches down your arm! Here are some more acceptable behaviors that you can teach your dog to perform in order to “ask” for your attention:
- Go lie down on an “ask mat” provided specifically for this purpose.
- Nose-target to a plastic container lid attached to the wall. (One in each room, for easy communication.)
- Pick up a specific designated “ask toy” and drop it at your feet.
- Lie down and roll over or play possum (lying on back, tummy-side-up).
- Push a talking button provided for this purpose.
- Stand with front paws on a stool provided for this purpose.
You can see that the possibilities are endless – pick a favorite behavior or teach your dog something entirely new to be her “ask.” Then, anticipate and preempt her barking, nudging, or pawing by cueing her “ask” behavior when you see her heading for you with intent in her eyes. Be sure to reinforce the behavior when she does it! Also, watch for her to offer her “ask” behavior, and reinforce her when she does.
Meanwhile, studiously ignore any inappropriate barking, nudging, or pawing so these behaviors can extinguish. Be aware that when you extinguish a behavior by removing all reinforcement, the behavior may get worse before it gets better. This is called an extinction burst, as the dog tries very hard to obtain reinforcement for a behavior that’s worked well for her in the past.
Be careful! If you inadvertently reinforce your dog during an extinction burst, you will have taught your dog that the increased intensity level of behavior gets reinforced, and she will go there more quickly next time. (Note: If you have neighbors who will be inconvenienced by your dog’s barking during the extinction process, I strongly recommend you let them know you are working on it – and provide a dozen home-baked chocolate-chip cookies when you do.)
Finally, be sure to use your “That’ll do” cue when you end your reinforcement for the “ask” behavior; then, avoid reinforcing any “ask” behaviors that your dog engages in after your “That’ll do.”
He Can’t Always Get What He Wants
The bottom line here is that you get the behaviors you reinforce. If your dog does things you don’t like in her efforts to communicate her needs and wants, help her to learn how to communicate more effectively, thereby reducing frustration for both of you. It’s up to you to find a more appropriate way to help her control her own outcomes and be behaviorally healthy. You’ll both be happier for it!
When a dog is this cute, it’s hard to resist his attempts to get you to play – at least, until you’ve had to change your clothes twice before going to work, as he slimed your slacks or muddied your Manolo Blahnik’s with a dirt- and slobber-encrusted ball he wanted you to throw. But you must resist once you’ve given the “All done!” cue. If you give in after you’ve given your cue, you are in for a lot more of the same.
I adopted my first Australian Kelpie in the mid-1980s. This is a breed I cheerfully describe as “Border Collies on uppers” – and I quickly realized that my ball-crazy Keli was going to drive me crazy if I didn’t teach her an “off switch” cue.
I used her favorite toy – a tennis ball – to teach her that “All done!” meant there was absolutely no point in continuing to ask me to throw the ball. This then translated easily to other situations where I needed to tell her that we were done with whatever activity we had been engaged in – whether it was play, training, or casual interactions.
Here’s how you can install an “off switch” in your own dog:
1. Start with a long play session – long enough that it’s reasonable to expect that your dog will be able to end the game and relax.
With Keli, sometimes tossing the ball in the yard for a while was enough; sometimes it took climbing to the top of a steep hill and tossing the ball down the hill for her to fetch – over and over and over again.
The goal is to have him more or less ready to quit on his own – at least when you start teaching “All done!”
2. Give your “All done!” cue, and put the toy somewhere your dog can no longer see it – in a cupboard or in a backpack – and ignore any of your dog’s efforts to re-engage with the toy.
3. Notify any other humans in the vicinity to also ignore your dog’s attempts to get them to play.
NOTE: Training humans to ignore your dog’s attempts to get them to play fetch might be the hardest part of this! You have to be very assertive with them! Alternatively, you can just leash your dog and move away from the most insistent dog lovers.
4. Watch your dog, so you notice and can reinforce him for any appropriate behavior that is not attention-seeking. If your dog stops staring at you and, instead, retreats to his bed, go to him and praise and pet him calmly (assuming he likes petting).
5. Make sure to give your dog plenty of opportunities to engage in ball-chasing and other favorite activities daily. You don’t want your dog to feel deprived after you tell him that you are done for the moment, but confident that he will have another opportunity later.
6. Generalize your “All done!” cue by using it in other training situations and recreational activities, so that your dog will realize that the cue means the end of whatever he is doing when he hears it. For example, you can use the cue when you’ve allowed your dog-who-loves-to-lick to kiss your face several times and then you’ve had enough.
Herding dog trainers commonly use “That’ll do” as a “off switch” cue – and the expression was popularized by the movie “Babe.” (Remember? It’s when the talented swine was told: “That’ll do, Pig!”)
You can, of course, use whatever cue you want. But stick with it! Trust me, you will find it well worth the time and effort it takes to teach your persistent dog that enough is enough when you say it is.
If your dog is a purebred, or is a mixed breed dog that greatly resembles a specific breed, look into the historic origins of the breed to determine what sort of work the dog was developed to perform.
Give your dog the opportunity to use his inherited gifts during recreation or work. For example, allow dogs that are known for scent work to smell, and dogs who were bred to herd or work to run (a lot!), whether at the dog park or on a jogging path.
Look for opportunities to train your dog for activities that harness the skills and predispositions of his breed or type.
No one knows whether dogs chose humans or humans chose them, but whatever the case, we’ve been partnered for a long time. We welcomed canis lupus familiaris into our fold – and then much later began carefully and strategically breeding them to produce dogs who would readily perform various specialized tasks. They helped humans hunt, gather, and retrieve game, rid us of vermin, herded and guarded our flocks, and protected us from dangerous interlopers. Even the smallest toy breeds were ratters by day, and lap warmers by night.
Our liaison was one of mutual convenience. We provided food, warmth, and shelter, and in turn, they performed services we needed – but their work didn’t preclude them from acting on their instincts and expressing behaviors that came naturally to them. It was a great working partnership that still exists in some parts of the world.
In this country, though, few pet dogs have any sort of job to do. Seem like a nice gig? Free food and lodging, with almost no expectations? Well . . . except for the fact that they have to give up the right to act on their instincts and may no longer express many behaviors that come naturally to them. For a dog, it’s maybe not such a good deal after all.
As a dog trainer and behavior consultant, I feel that it’s no wonder that many of the “problem dogs” I’m paid to work with are expressing undesirable behaviors; they’d likely be perfectly fine if they were living in a different time and circumstance, able to perform the work and do the things they most enjoy doing. The simplest prescription? Adopting a program of training and activities that suit dogs of their background can greatly enhance the dogs’ lives and enable them to live more successfully in our world.
Why Do We Choose Certain Dog Breeds?
Many people choose their canine companions based on aesthetic reasons; they like dogs who are a certain size or color, or who have a certain type or length of coat. Some will admit they chose their dog because it looked “just like” one on TV or in the movies, or out of nostalgia for a childhood dog, conjuring fond memories of times gone by. They may have read or heard that dogs of a certain breed are “good with kids” or “hypoallergenic,” or make “great apartment dogs.” But how many people select their dogs based on what that type of dog was originally bred to do? Very few!
While the majority of dogs in the U.S. are mixed-breeds, the rest (an estimated 40 to 45 percent) are purebreds. Not all purebreeds are recognized by the American Kennel Club (AKC), but the AKC is the largest registry of purebred dogs in the U.S. It recognizes around 200 breeds, which it organizes into formal “groups,” based on the work that the dogs where originally bred to do. According to statistics based on AKC registrations, among the current top 20 most popular breeds, five are working breeds; three apiece are in the sporting group, herding group, toy group, and “non-sporting” group (this is merely a catch-all group for dogs that don’t specifically fit in any other category); two are in the hound group, and one is in the terrier group. It’s safe to say that the majority were bred with specific characteristics and behaviors that helped make them more efficient at their jobs.
Specific characteristics and a predisposition to certain behaviors are also inherited by mixed-breed dogs; the more genetic contribution a mixed-breed dog receives from a purebred gene pool, the more likely he is to act like his purebred ancestors.
Why does this matter? Knowing what drives and motivates a dog’s forebears can inform his owner as to what is most likely to motivate him, lead to greater harmony and training success for that dog.
This is not to say that every individual dog within a breed should be expected to behave the exact same way. However, there are some distinctive breed-typical characteristics that have been selected and concentrated throughout that breed’s history that could very likely affect behavior.
Sporting Dog Breeds
Sporting breeds – Pointers, Retrievers, Setters, and Spaniels – were bred to work alongside and help the hunter on land and in water, with a strong prey drive and the strength and stamina to hunt and swim all day if needed. Does this mean all Labradors will be natural swimmers? No. Or will all Pointers and Setters be “birdy”? Not necessarily. However, most that I have met through the years have been full of energy – and when that energy is not directed toward productive activities, it can manifest in a host of undesirable behaviors such as reactive behavior, destructiveness, excessive barking, and hyperactivity. The result can be the dog being deemed as stubborn and untrainable, which couldn’t be farther than the truth.
These breeds were specifically bred to follow cues and direction, making them extremely biddable – when their physical activity needs are met, which isn’t always easy. A walk around the block or a 20-minute game of fetch when you come home for work just might not be enough.
This doesn’t mean you must take up hunting! You can simulate that work by participating in field trials and hunt tests. These sports train your dog to use his instincts to point to, flush, and retrieve game. There are fewer things as exciting as watching a young dog’s instinct kick in! A baby Irish Setter who’s never seen quail before “pointing” at one hidden in the brush without ever being taught is a sight to behold.
Agility, bikejoring, fly ball, cani-cross, dock diving, and scootering are some of the other sports and activities that can provide both physical and mental exercise for active breeds. They also promote team work between dog and owner, and help the dog’s build confidence.
Barbara Long of Chapel Hill, North Carolina, has shared her life with Gordon Setters for quite a few years and currently has two. “If they get enough exercise, they can be quite calm in the house,” writes Barbara. “Mine have been biddable but outwardly directed, independent, and persistent, which is pretty characteristic of the breed.” Barbara regularly participates in rally, tracking, and canine freestyle with her dogs.
At this writing, there are more than 24,000 Labs and Goldens alone listed for adoption on petfinder.com, and thousands of other sporting breeds and predominant sporting breed-mixes. I wonder how many of those dogs could have had been more successful in their homes if they’d had access to these types of activities?
Working and Herding Breeds
Working breeds, such as Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, Boxers and Great Danes, were bred to be keepers of the castle and ward off trespassers, so it never surprises me when I receive a call from a worried owner of a 10-month-old Mastiff who seems wary of strangers. It starts to make even more sense when I learn the dog has never been to a group training class and rarely leaves the house or yard.
While all dogs need and benefit from early socialization, anyone choosing a working breed should expect to socialize, socialize, socialize; and when they think they’ve done enough, socialize some more! Dogs of working breeds should be introduced to new people and places regularly – while young, and through adolescence and adulthood. Group training classes are a great place to accomplish this. The dogs will have the opportunity to meet new people and dogs of all kinds in a controlled, predictable environment.
Sports and activities that involve thinking and problem solving, such as tracking, scent work, competitive obedience and rally obedience, are great to try with many of the working breeds. Of course, many of the working breeds are used in the specific activities for which they were developed, such as water rescue (Newfoundlands, Portuguese Water Dogs), drafting and carting (Saint Bernards, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs, Leonbergers), and sled pulling (Siberian Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes).
Jill Greff of Ottsville, Pennsylvania, has had Bernese Mountain Dogs since 2001. “I have done obedience, rally, agility, and herding with my Berners. Mostly I found they respond best to positive reinforcement and are both food- and praise-motivated,” says Greff. “Berners do things in their time. It may look like they are moving slow, but in their mind they are hurrying! Patience is key.”
Primarily bred to herd sheep and cattle on working farms, today most herding breeds in the U.S. rarely live that lifestyle. Instead they live in metro areas and suburbs, and occasionally in townhomes, condos, and apartments.
How does that work? Well, one thing is certain: if there is herding instinct there, they will still find a way to express it, often by herding the children, family cat, or worse, by chasing cars and any fast-moving object, which can be very problematic and dangerous. The challenge is finding activities that can help satisfy that urge safely and constructively.
Treibball is a great sport for herding breeds. Created in Germany a dozen or so years ago, this sport requires a dog to “herd,” or gather and drive large exercise balls into a soccer goal. It is a skill that does take quite a bit of precision training, but herding breeds tend to be very quick learners. Additionally, many herding breeds excel at dog agility and competitive obedience and rally as well.
Hounds, Terriers, Toy, and “Non-Sporting” Breeds
Both hounds and terriers were bred to work independently of man – meaning, rather than directly follow our cues and directions, they followed their own instinct and drive. Hounds use their noses to locate everything from fox, rabbits, raccoons, wild pigs, and bears (and then use their keen sight and speed in pursuit). Terriers go to ground, using their powerful claws and shoulder muscles to dig for vermin and rodents.
This is important to know when training one of these breeds, as it can save your hours of frustration when they don’t seem to be listening and become easily distracted! I’ve found it most successful to first use the highest-value rewards to motivate them to work with you, and then shape the desired behavior by rewarding increasingly close approximations of that behavior until you get the behavior you want. This can help keep a dog motivated when they otherwise might be distracted.
Most hounds and terriers have a strong prey drive, so take extra care when they are around small animals. Many toy breeds have terriers and other working breeds in their backgrounds, so one should never be surprised when a strong prey drive pops up.
A catch-all for a variety of breeds that don’t specifically fit in any of the other groups, the “Non-Sporting” group is quite a misnomer, as quite a few of the breeds so categorized were bred to be working dogs. Dalmatians are a good example of this, and a breed that is near and dear to my heart. I currently share my life with two of them, and they are the greatest Dalmatians most people meet, so I am told.
There’s a reason for that! Originating in Croatia, the Dal has performed various work through the years. They were war dogs that guarded the borders of Dalmatia, and were used to hunt vermin and wild boar, and as gun dogs, trail hounds, circus dogs, and, most notably, as carriage and coach dogs. Affectionately known as “firehouse dogs,” Dalmatians were trained to run alongside fire carriages to protect the horses and guard the firehouse.
It takes a lot of energy and stamina to run with horses for miles, and many today still have that same energy and stamina. Unfortunately, many are not given adequate outlets for that excess energy; my dogs do receive lots of daily exercise, and that’s likely the reason I receive so many compliments. I train them in competitive obedience, rally, and agility, tricks, and even coach-dog training. My dogs run with horses! And when I can’t do this, they run alongside my bike. In addition, they have an opportunity and environment that allows them to play so hard, it’s likely the equivalent of running several miles. These are the necessary activities that result in not only “the most well-mannered Dalmatians” many have ever seen, but also, the most content and happy ones, too!
Get the Dog You Want, Work with What You Get
When it comes to dog selection, it’s similar to picking your significant other: “The heart wants what the heart wants.” Regardless of what breed or type of mixed-breed dog you choose, you can enhance both of your lives if you acknowledge the instincts of his ancestors and focus on constructive ways to work with them, rather than trying to change your dog. Only then can we stop thinking something is “wrong” with our dogs, and start looking for ways to help them become the dogs their genes are telling them to be.
Canine education specialist, dog behavior counselor, and trainer Laurie Williams is the owner of Pup ‘N Iron Canine Fitness & Learning Center in Fredericksburg, Virginia.
It shouldn't come as a surprise to any of you that life with dogs is highly emotional. Our canine companions can make us laugh hard and cry hard, sometimes on the same day! But I, for one, wouldn't trade my time with them, even the difficult ones, for anything else in the world. I've learned so much from working with them - and there is always more to learn. This month, I'm taking Training Editor Pat Miller's article on "demand behaviors" to heart in order to deal with a budding problem with Woody's newfound attention-seeking behavior. I feel just like any other dog-training student as I fail, again and again, to ignore his repeated efforts to engage me; he's just so cute!
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A friend just posted an article online about the launch of a brand-new pet treat manufacturing company in California – that is, a California-based subsidiary of a Chinese pet food manufacturing company, Gambol Pet Group. The company is already the largest provider of private-label pet treats for Walmart in the U.S. and Canada.
This is bound to set off a predictable avalanche of negative comments about Chinese manufacturers of dog foods and treats – which I, myself, strenuously avoid, due to concerns about lax controls over the food industry in China. However, this U.S.-based subsidiary will have to follow U.S. laws and inspections, and, in our opinion, really shouldn’t be regarded with any more or less suspicion than any pet food or treat manufacturer.
That said, I’m not a big fan of any private-label treats; in fact, the only dog treats I’d ever buy are from well-established companies with a long-standing perfect record of safe manufacturing. I look for companies I know and trust – and scrutinize the ingredients list, anyway, for any low-cost or “filler” type ingredients, artificial colors and flavor, and sugar and other palatants.
Truth be told, I don’t like buying treats at all; I use real food as treats, instead. Most dogs strongly prefer this, anyway, and will work far harder and more enthusiastically for tiny cubes of roasted or canned chicken, cheese, hot dog, roast beef, ham, etc.
But the treat industry is so huge, people must really like buying them, for reasons that escape me. So many treats – virtually all the ones you can buy in big-box stores and supermarkets – contain sketchy ingredients and loads of artificial colors. Fake bacon? Why not . . . bacon?
Do you buy commercially made treats for your dog? Why?
My son’s dog – my granddog – just stayed with me for three weeks, while my athlete son was traveling for his sport. Cole, an all-black Black and Tan Coonhound, is about four years old now. I personally selected him for my son from my local shelter when he was only about four or five months old, and he’s stayed with me many, many times. He has *perfect* manners, gets along well with both my dogs (goofy adolescent Woody and serious senior Otto) and my cats (both the super-shy one and the one who swats the dogs daily). I absolutely adore this dog – and yet, I was glad when my son returned from his travels and Cole went home. As much as I love dogs in general and Cole in particular, for me, three dogs is just a bit much.
Two dogs is just the right number for me. Three (or more) get a bit chaotic; it seems like one of the three has always just vomited or had a runny poo, or is coughing or something. With three or more, it feels like I can never get the house clean; as fast as I vacuum all the hair, muddy footprints appear somewhere behind me. The water bowl is always empty (or full of slobbery backwash), with drips on the floor in a 10-foot radius around the bowl.
My sister has four little dogs, each of whom, individually, is a nice little dog. Collectively, though, it feels like a circus to me – especially since none of them are trained in any way. Bark, bark, bark, bark! Yikes!
In contrast, having only one dog is a bit intense. It feels almost too intimate, like being on a date, as opposed to going out with the whole family. Does that even make sense?
I guess this is why I like short-term fostering only; I try to avoid fostering any dog that might need months and months of training and behavioral rehabilitation because after a few weeks, it feels more like a burden and less like fun.
What about you? What’s the right number of dogs for you?
My husband, who is not at all what I would call a dog person, nevertheless makes some uncannily good observations about dog behavior sometimes. He’s the one who, about a year ago, stated that he thinks Woody is going to be our best chance at having a non-neurotic dog. And darned if he’s not right.
Otto, who will be 10 in November, is, by and large, a content and confident dog, but he does have fears and concerns about certain things, including floors that he suspects might be slippery. He lights up at the sight of a tennis racket, because that means a game of fetching tennis balls, but runs from the room if you pick up a fly swatter, because fly-swatting . . . well, I don’t know why fly-swatting is so terrifying. He could not care less about gunshots; several of our favorite places to hike are within easy earshot (pun not intended) of a shooting range, but fireworks? Well, every single year, he gets more and more reactive to the sound of fireworks.
This year, fireworks were being set off all around town starting days before Independence Day. Every time we could hear one pop off close by, Otto would come to me and park himself by my chair, shaking and panting. For the actual holiday, I sent him to my sister’s house; she lives out of town, where fireworks are strictly illegal due to the fire hazard. He spent a very restful afternoon and night there, thank goodness.
My town actually welcomes fireworks – it’s a much safer place for them than anywhere in the outskirts, where any spark poses a huge threat of wildfire in the tinder-dry grass, tall from last spring’s record rainfall. People from outlying areas all around us come to town to light their fireworks. Every parking lot in town, I swear, was sparkling and crackling all afternoon and well past midnight, when I finally fell asleep.
Woody could not care less. Not about the booming ones, the crackly ones, nor the ones that sound like a missile is shrieking down toward our house. He slept through them all. Ah, that’s nice.
How did your dogs do? I’m particularly interested to hear how many of you tried the new medication Sileo on your dogs this year, and how it worked – particularly because I think I’m going to be trying it on Otto soon enough.
Warnings about pets and fireworks are so ubiquitous on social media today, that it seems like repeating the obvious to warn pet owners that they should take extra steps to secure their pets for the holiday. However, there are some fine points to consider that I’d like to add to the suggestions that are most commonly shared.
The warnings all discuss taking various precautions to prevent your pet from being traumatized or escaping on the July 4th holiday. Actually, you had better ramp up those preparations NOW, since many people who buy fireworks start celebrating days in advance! With the holiday on Tuesday this year, I would expect to hear lots of snap, crackle, and pops this weekend.
Every pet safety warning says to make sure your pet is wearing identification. I’d add that you should check – right now! – your dog’s tags to make sure they are still legible. The engraving on many tags gets rubbed off (by the other tags on your dog’s collar) over time, and may not be readable. Also check to make sure that the tag has your CURRENT phone number! Along the same lines, if your dog has a microchip (and why wouldn’t he?!), check with the chip registry to make sure it has your current contact information.
Make sure whatever social plans you have in place for the 4th take your dog’s needs into consideration. If you are going out and leaving your dog at home (very likely the safest and most comfortable and familiar place for him to be), double-check all the doors and windows to make sure they are securely fastened. Consider turning up the TV or stereo to help cover the sounds that your dog might hear. But if your dog has exhibited a serious fear of fireworks in the past – to the point where she has escaped or caused damage in your home – and you won’t be home, she may be safer and more comfortable if she is boarded at a veterinary clinic or kennel (preferably, one with 24-hour staff). It’s rather late to make these reservations, however, so…
If your dog has exhibited extreme fear of fireworks (or gunshots) in the past, though, you may be better off staying home with her and helping her through the experience. Close the doors and windows tightly, and turn up the TV! Some people say that you shouldn’t “coddle” your dog when she’s exhibiting fear, in case you reinforce her fearful behavior. But most animal behavior experts today agree that it’s a good idea to comfort a dog who is shaking or panting in fear. Bring her up on the couch with you, cover the two of you with a heavy blanket (with a fan on you, if necessary!), and turn up the sound of your stereo or TV as loud as you can handle it during the peak fireworks hours. Feed her some tiny, super-delicious treats (if she’ll take them).
Again, if your dog has a past history of dramatic reactions to fireworks, I hope that you have already discussed this with your veterinarian, and received and filled a prescription for an appropriate behavior-modifying medication, such as Sileo. (I’m going to assume that you all know that while veterinarians used to commonly prescribe a tranquilizer, Acepromazine or “Ace”, for treating dogs with fear of fireworks, we now know that this can actually make the dog’s fear worse. Ace sedates the dog but doesn’t reduce his anxiety; he may still be terrified, just unable to move in a coordinated fashion! Many people have reported that their dogs get worse after being treated with Ace while exposed to fireworks.)
If your dog is young, and either hasn’t been exposed to fireworks yet or last experienced them as a very young puppy, you may not even know whether she will be fearful until the day approaches. Arm yourself now with treats – tiny cubes of cheese, canned chicken, roast beef. Any time you hear fireworks popping off in the days before the 4th, try clicking a clicker or using an excited, happy verbal marker such as “Yay!” and run to give your dog a treat. In this way, you can build a happy association between the sound of the explosions and receiving a treat and praise.
Finally, don’t take it for granted that your older dog, who may have never responded negatively to the sound of fireworks before, will keep his cool in the face of the booming or cracking sounds for the rest of his life. A dog’s hearing changes as he ages, and he may register the sounds very differently as a senior dog than he did in middle age. Senior dogs with cognitive losses, too, may be less composed on Independence Day than they once were. Take all the precautions for these precious seniors that you would for a dog with a long history of firework phobias.
Happy 4th! Like most dog owners, I’ll be glad when it’s over!
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
