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How Much Do Dogs Understand Humans?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Dogs can understand humans, at least in part. How much they understand is still a topic of research.
While there are some limits to how much dogs can understand humans, most can figure out quite a lot when it comes to cross-species communication. Credit: chris-mueller | Getty Images

Any dog lover will tell you that their dog can understand them to one degree or another. We communicate with our dogs via words, facial expressions, hand signals, and body language, and our dogs respond.

And science is catching up to what we experience every day! Studies prove that dogs can understand our words and facial expressions. Some of this understanding is learned over time through life experience or intentional training, but some of it is innate.

Exactly how much dogs understand what we say and do can be difficult to measure, but we are starting to see more complex studies that are looking at how dogs interpret more abstract concepts, and even how they can learn to use language to “talk” back to us.

Can Dogs Understand Humans?

Absolutely. Dogs definitely learn the meaning of individual words and phrases (such as objects, names of people or other pets, and verbal cues that indicate a behavior or action), and understand our tone, facial expressions, and body language such as pointing.

For example, pointing at a toy and saying, “Get it!” uses several different types of communication. Your dog has likely already been taught that “get it” means to grab a toy and bring it to you. The presence of a toy in the room backs up that understanding, and by pointing, you are indicating which toy you want retrieved.

Most of our communication with our dogs is made up of these mixed-media interactions. Over time, this can develop into a unique “language” shared only between you and your dog—your unique relationship with your dog, from your experiences together to your knowledge of her breed and upbringing, all come together to form the human-animal bond and your ability to communicate with each other.

While there is overlap between many dog-human pairs, there are also things that only make sense to specific duos. For example, many dogs have been taught the cue “sit.” If you walk up to a strange dog and say, “Sit,” the dog will probably respond in kind. But your dog may also know something that other dogs don’t. For example, my dog has learned that three taps means to move to a different spot on the bed. If I tapped a strange dog, odds are he would think I didn’t know how to pet properly.

And it isn’t just context that allows our dogs to understand what we are saying. One study looked an MRI imaging of dogs’ brains when they were shown an object and a person said either the name of the object or something else (for example, held up a ball but said, “bowl”). The same parts of the brain lit up in dogs when shown a mismatched pair as happens with humans! The dogs clearly recognized when a familiar object was paired with the wrong but still familiar word.

Talking Buttons for Dogs

The development of talking buttons has been a fun evolution in how dogs understand humans and communicate back. The idea originally came from a series of buttons used to help children learn language.

You can teach your dog a word or phrase, and then record it onto a button and teach the dog to press the button. For example, your dog might press, “Outside,” when she needs to go out to pee. Or she might press, “Hungry” to request a treat.

Talking buttons have become popular all over the world, and some dogs have made amazing connections when communicating with their people. As dogs learn more words, their people add additional buttons to their boards.

A study just published in August 2024 used button boards to show that dogs know the meaning of the words without any context clues being given. For example, many of us ask our dogs if they want to go for a walk as we stand up and head for the door. Our dogs could be responding to the word “walk,” but could also just be responding to our body language indicating that we are heading outside and want the dog to come with. This study broke that down.

For the study, each dog’s button boards were covered so the experimenter didn’t know which one they were pressing. The experimenter then pressed a button and stayed still, while a second experimenter recorded what the dog did in response. The dogs responded appropriately to both words that indicated playtime (by grabbing a toy) or going outside (headed toward the door).

Do as I Do

Another innovative means of communicating with your dog is the “Do as I Do” method. Trainers who use Do as I Do teach their dogs to mimic their movements. This is called social learning because the dog is learning to perform a behavior by watching their person do it first.

Researchers in Italy have done several studies with dogs trained to Do as I Do, including one that compared how quickly and well dogs learned a new task through either shaping (clicker training) or Do as I Do. The task for this study was opening the sliding door of a cabinet. Handlers using shaping would gradually shape the dog to touch and then move the cabinet door, while the handlers using Do as I Do would demonstrate opening the door and then ask the dogs to, “Do it!” The dogs who knew Do as I Do were able to master the behavior faster, and had good memory of how to do it 24 hours later, even in a new location.

Limitations of Speech When Communicating With Dogs

While dogs can understand humans to a point, there are limits. Once we get into full sentences and abstract concepts, things seem to break down for our canine companions.

Dogs have been shown to know the difference between a familiar spoken language and nonsense words, and the difference between different languages. A few dogs can learn basic syntax, or the arrangement of words to change meaning. For example, your dog may be able to understand instructions like, “Take the ball to Peter,” or “Bring the elephant to the chair.”

Another concept that dogs seem to struggle with is learning the name of something that they can’t see by observing a human talking about it. A small trial with four dogs placed different toys in buckets so that the dogs couldn’t see them, and then each dog’s owner looked in a bucket and said the name of the item several times. Then the buckets were dumped so the dogs could see all of the toys briefly. The toys were then placed in another room and the dogs were asked to fetch the named toy. It didn’t go particularly well, though one dog may have been figuring out the game.

So while your dog probably won’t be debating philosophy with you any time soon, some genius pups may understand a little more than the average dog.

How Many Words Do Dogs Understand?

We don’t have any controlled studies evaluating how many words dogs can learn, but we do have lots of anecdotal reports. You have probably heard of Rico the Border Collie who knew over 200 words, and Chaser the Border Collie who knew over 1000 words!

Researchers collected information on how many words people’s dogs knew via an online survey. This study found that on average, dogs know the meaning of 89 words. Owners who participated in the study felt that their dogs understood at least 15 words, with the most accomplished dog in the group knowing 215 words. Herding breed dogs (like those overachieving Border Collies) and toy-companion breeds generally had the most extensive vocabularies.

Body Language is Where It’s At

Dog language is mostly made up of body language. And they read our body language very well.

Dogs understand human facial expressions quite well, especially the basics of a friendly expression versus an angry or threatening one. The more time a dog spends interacting with humans, the better she gets at reading emotional expressions. Dogs are especially good at reading the faces of people they know well, but they can also read other people’s expressions. Even free-roaming stray dogs read human expressions and then use that information to make decisions.

As well as expressions, dogs also understand our posture and many of our gestures, like pointing.

Unfortunately, humans are not as good at reading dog body language. Countless videos online show dogs giving signals that they are uncomfortable, and the humans continuing what they were doing anyway. In many cases the person is hugging the dog or petting her too forcefully.

Some dogs do come to enjoy hugs from their owners and close human friends, but many dogs do not understand nor enjoy this type of contact. Consider how you would feel if a stranger just walked up to you and hugged you tight. You would probably feel confused, stressed, and trapped. The dog only gets more distressed when her signals of being nervous are ignored.

Dogs show many of the same signs of stress as we do—tense posture, dilated pupils, rapid breathing, and either extreme stillness or constant fidgeting. A happy, relaxed dog, on the other hand, will show loose body posture and a happy wagging tail.

Other Ways to Communicate With Your Dog

Use your imagination to come up with other ways to communicate with your dog—and vice versa!

Most of my dogs ask to come back inside from the yard by barking. But my youngest dog, Bruni, preferred to smash the door. To save both her growing elbows and my door, I taught her to press a doorbell at dog nose height to ask to come in. Now I can get things done in the house while she plays outside, and then when she’s ready to come in, she rings her doorbell.

As our dogs age, we may need to come up with ways other than spoken words to communicate. When I start to notice signs of hearing loss in my older dogs, I start teaching them to come to a blinking light. When the dogs are out in the yard at bedtime, I flick the lights three times, then call them in. This basic pairing teaches the dog that flicking lights equals “come.” By the time my senior dog’s hearing is gone completely, she already understands the light system to call her in.

And don’t overlook body language and signals. The “slow blink” is a well-know calming signal for dogs. If your dog seems a little stressed and you want to reassure her, make eye contact and then slowly blink. This signals to her that everything is okay and you are relaxed enough to take your eyes off the situation. When working with a stressed dog who doesn’t know you, you can make her feel more at ease by angling your body to the side and making sure your posture is loose. This helps her to feel less pressure and less threatened.

Bottom Line

Dogs really can understand humans quite a bit, from body language and facial expressions to words and phrases and our vocal tones. But while a few talented dogs may learn to understand some more complex syntax, most dogs tap out when you get to complete sentences and abstract concepts.

Liver Cancer in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Liver cancer in dogs is a slow process that requires you to pay attention to your dog's quality of life.
With liver cancer, the question of euthanasia will be raised. It’s a decision that requires you to “listen” to your dog. Credit: Artur Debat | Getty Images

Primary liver, or hepatic, cancer is rare in dogs. Most commonly, a dog who develops a mass in the liver has a secondary (metastatic) cancer. Still, any liver tumor should be diagnosed and not ignored.

True liver cancer tends to grow slowly, but your dog can be uncomfortable and feel sick. Many metastatic cancers that settle in the liver, such as hemangiosarcoma, have shorter survival times and may be painful. Keep in mind your dog’s quality of life when making decisions about euthanasia due to liver cancer.

Many dogs will do well for months, or even years, despite having hepatic malignancy. You should be alert to changes such as the development of jaundice and lethargy. Loss of appetite and weakness can both signal that your dog is losing his battle with cancer.

Track his quality-of-life status. Is he eating? Can he still do the things he loves, like taking hikes in the woods or chasing his ball (even if you roll it for now)? Be prepared to schedule euthanasia for his sake, despite your pain.

Liver Cancer Symptoms

Common liver cancer symptoms in dogs are nonspecific with a few caveats. Many dogs will be “off.” They may seem nauseous, have a lack of appetite, and are lethargic or depressed.

Abdominal pain is often evident on palpation. Gastrointestinal upsets may occur. Some dogs will have weight loss but appear normal due to fluid buildup in the abdomen. Liver cancer can strike at any age but is mostly seen in older dogs.

If your dog becomes jaundiced, a liver problem jumps to the top of the list of possible reasons. Jaundice, or icterus, is associated with the destruction of red blood cells, liver disease, or gallbladder problems, particularly problems with the bile duct. With jaundice, you will notice a yellow discoloration to gums, the inside of ears, pale skin in the groin area, and in the sclera of the eyes.

Another sign pointing toward liver disease is neurological problems, which can range from zombie-like behavior to full-blown seizures.

Metastatic cancers in the liver tend to follow clinical signs of the primary cancer. For example, with hemangiosarcoma, your dog’s liver may be fragile, and he may suffer from periodic bleed outs, which can be fatal.

Types of Liver Cancer in Dogs

Hepatocellular adenocarcinoma: The most common type of primary liver cancer in dogs is hepatocellular adenocarcinoma. Hepatocelluar adenocarcinoma accounts for about 50% of all primary liver cancers in dogs. Male dogs are more prone to this type of liver cancer than females. If confined to one lobe of the liver and removed early on, this cancer can be controlled. Masses in the left lobe are easier for surgery.

Left to grow, the cancer cells may spread to other organs or cause bleeding into the abdomen. Liver failure is possible if the cancer grows unchecked as the tumor cells will overtake the normal liver cells and reduce liver function. If the mass has spread beyond one lobe, the prognosis is poor.

Hepatocellular adenoma: This is a benign version of hepatocellular adenocarcinoma. It is unlikely to spread, so surgical removal tends to be easier and can be curative. Despite being slow growing, it should be removed to proactively prevent rupture with a subsequent bleed out.

Bile-duct carcinoma: This is the second-most common primary liver cancer in dogs. Some might argue that these are gallbladder cancers, but many originate within the liver. Female dogs are more likely to get this form of hepatic cancer. Bile-duct carcinomas have a high rate of metastasis. They can also be tricky to totally remove surgically.

Hemangiosarcoma: The most common secondary or metastatic cancer in the liver is hemangiosarcoma. There are few options for treating hemangiosarcoma, and currently none of them are highly successful. The primary site, often the spleen or heart, would need to be treated as well. Plus, it’s important to consider the fact that it has already obviously spread to the liver, which means there is microscopic spread elsewhere. Palliative and hospice care is often your best option for this cancer.

Diagnosing Liver Cancer

A diagnosis of liver cancers usually involves a blood chemistry panel with elevated liver enzyme values and/or an ultrasound exam showing a liver mass. Special blood chemistry tests such as bile acids may be run.

Radiographs are not as helpful as an ultrasound exam. A biopsy is required for a definitive diagnosis. Since the liver is involved in most clotting pathways, care must be taken with any surgery on the liver, even a needle biopsy. A coagulation profile is routinely recommended before any invasive procedure.

Metastases Affect Treatment Options

Once the type of cancer is determined, treatment options will be discussed. A plus to the liver is that it has multiple lobes and amazing regenerative powers. If your dog’s cancer is confined to one area, surgery may be done to remove the tumor. Your dog can easily get along with a lobe, or even two, of his liver removed.

Before undertaking any surgery, your dog should be fully evaluated for metastases. This evaluation should include X-rays of the lungs. Histopathologic evaluation of nearby lymph nodes should be done, if possible.

The ideal treatment for liver cancer is surgery. However, if there has already been metastasis, surgery is not recommended. Chemotherapy has not been highly effective with liver cancer in dogs, but radiation, either before surgery to reduce the size of the mass, or post-surgery if there aren’t clear margins, can prolong survival.

Corticosteroids and palliative radiation can gain some quality time for your canine companion.

Supportive care is important. Liver supplements such as milk thistle may help the healthy liver tissues maintain normal functions. Keeping your dog in good physical shape is always a plus, which means appropriate exercise, other supplements for joint health and cognitive care, and a good diet.

Vaccinations

Currently, there is lots of research into immunotherapy and vaccines for various cancers. There is nothing definitive for liver cancer at this time, although hemangiosarcomas have stimulated lots of interest.

Preventing liver cancer, other than vaccinating for canine hepatitis (included in most multi-vaccines), is non-specific. Avoiding unnecessary exposures to toxins such as avoiding herbicide usage on your property can help.

As with any cancer, report any physical changes in your dog or unusual behavior immediately. Early detection and treatment remain our best weapons against liver cancer, or any cancer, for that matter.

Sorting Through My Books

By
Nancy Kerns
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8
Books are beloved stores of information for dog training, and for dog owners.
Here are 96 pounds worth of essential reference books, headed to WDJ’s new editor.

Here’s a sign of changing times: I am working to reduce the amount of stuff in my office, and my bookshelves are my current target. For years, I have held to my limit of three 6-foot by 3-foot shelves to hold my resource library of dog-related books, but as I reduce my responsibilities for WDJ, I would like to gain space in my office for other uses.

Keeping my book collection to only three tall shelves has taken ongoing effort. At least once a year, I’ve had to give the shelves a critical pruning, throwing away titles that contained either incomplete or poor information and donating to my local library books that were of good quality, but not something that I planned to refer to again and again.

 

The books that contain incontrovertibly useful, accurate information—the ones that I still consult when in doubt about someone’s facts, or to check their spelling or description of a medical condition—I have boxed up and mailed to WDJ’s new Executive Editor, Kate O’Connor. With a receipt from the United States Postal Service in hand, I can tell you that I have shipped 96 pounds of books to Kate. Some are veterinary school textbooks—massive, weighty tomes that we use to fact-check articles. Some are expert compilations of information on using herbs, nutritional supplements, massage, acupressure, and other alternative or complementary healthcare methods. All of the books written by Pat Miller, WDJ’s guiding light on training and behavior for many years—Kate can use these to make sure WDJ’s training advice is consistent and clear.

The best place for bad or incomplete books for
: I had kept, but am now recycling, an embarrassing amount of bad dog books; there is no sense in shipping or donating bad or incomplete information.

There were many, many books that contain great information on specific topics: caring for senior dogs, managing kids and dogs, doing agility with dogs, teaching tricks to dogs, puppy training, dealing with housetraining problems, and so on—way too many books to send to Kate, but also, probably far too many to donate to my local library. Happily, my friend Sarah Richardson, owner of The Canine Connection (a boarding, daycare, and training facility in Chico, California), said she would be happy to host a dog-book lending-library at her facility, and so I delivered several boxes of books there. I am thrilled to know that I can visit the books there and even borrow some back if need be.

As much as I want to clear my bookshelves entirely, I kept finding myself holding onto certain books—even ones that I know Kate would find helpful. There are a bunch of books about pet food that I can’t part with yet; I know I will be referring to them for years to come. I also kept books written by people who have either become my friends, or who feel like old friends because of my familiarity of appreciation for their words. And I couldn’t yet part with a small stack of books on canine cancer that I haven’t had time to fully explore yet.

Some books are irreplaceable and worth keeping just for your personal reference.
I’m not ready to part with some parts of my library, such as this stack of books on canine cancer. I still want to absorb some of this information so I can write about it in the future.

So, beyond just two shelves of the books I’ve kept, now all I have to do is slowly file the rest of the books into my recycling barrel. You see, in addition to all the books I loved and consulted, over the years, I also kept several shelves of really bad books for reference. Do you know how many books of recipes for home-prepared dog diets are out there that fail to provide complete and balanced recipes for dogs? SO MANY BAD RECIPE BOOKS! Many of them provide recipes that lack ingredients that supply critical minerals, some omit discussion of customizing recipes for dogs with health problems, some fail to address the needs of large-breed puppies, and others omit measurements of protein, fat, or calories provided by the recipes they publish.

Hey! We need to publish an updated article about the BEST books on home-prepared diets (was our last article on that topic really in 2011??). I’ll talk to Kate about that.

I also kept bad training books for occasional reference—usually, when I was just trying to track down the source of some garbage advice or theory, such as the idea that owners should eat before their dogs are served, or how pinch collars replicate a mother dog’s grasp on her errant puppies’ scruff.

But honestly, I think the recycling bin is the best spot for the bad books; while they couldn’t cause any trouble on my shelves, I wouldn’t want them to inadvertently fall into the wrong hands.

How Long Is Kennel Cough Contagious?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Kennel cough is very contagious and you need to keep your dog isolated until you're sure it is gone.
Kennel cough will spread rapidly among a group of dogs if even just one of them is sick. Credit: Foto Zlatko | Getty Images

Most dogs recover from kennel cough in two to three weeks, but if your dog is still coughing you need to assume he might be contagious. To be truly safe from being the bane of your dog’s social circle, I would keep him out of his activities for a week after the last cough. While this may seem like an excess of caution, it is far better than spreading the illness to other canine households.

The classic sign of kennel cough is a dry, honking cough, possibly with a little gagging. The coughing can irritate the respiratory tract. If the illness is complicated by a bacterial or viral infection, the dog may have a fever, congestion, nasal discharge, lethargy, and a lack of appetite. A diagnosis from your veterinarian is money well spent in these cases.

How Long Is Kennel Cough Contagious?

Everyone wants a nice black and white answer to how long kennel cough is contagious, but there simply isn’t one. Part of the problem is that kennel cough can be caused by a variety of bacteria and viruses (that’s also why it’s been renamed “canine infectious respiratory disease” or CIRD). Each cause has a different course of illness.

Kennel cough is very contagious. One sneeze or cough can spread illness via droplets directly or by coating the environment, including blankets, dishes, and toys. One sick dog can potentially infect an entire kennel, shelter, or daycare.  If your unvaccinated dog has been exposed to a dog with active kennel cough, the odds are that your dog will get ill. Even vaccinated dogs may get kennel cough but, as with the human flu vaccine, symptoms tend to be milder, and recovery is faster.

Kennel Cough and Antibiotics

Most cases of kennel cough are not treated with antibiotics. If your dog’s case is purely viral, antibiotics will have no effect. If your veterinarian suspects the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica is involved, an antibiotic makes sense.

In these cases, doxycycline is the most likely antibiotic to be prescribed. Once your dog starts an appropriately prescribed antibiotic, you should see clinical improvement in 24 to 72 hours. Theoretically, contagiousness should decrease by then, too, but I would still hold to the “no cough for a week” standard before allowing your dog near other dogs.

A pure, viral kennel cough is non-productive and dry. If your dog’s cough changes to a “wet” cough, as in coughs up discharge or has quite a bit of nasal discharge, he probably has a secondary infection and may progress to pneumonia. Difficulty breathing and a fever are signs that pneumonia may be involved. If a secondary infection like this has set in, an antibiotic such as doxycycline may come into play.

Healing from Kennel Cough

As your dog’s system fights off the virus or bacterial cause, he still needs time for tissue healing. Often his respiratory tract is inflamed or irritated from the coughing. This is why your veterinarian recommends keeping him quiet and using a harness as opposed to a collar while he is ill. The worst case of kennel cough I have had was a young Golden Retriever who coughed for six weeks. I suspect his exercise was not restricted as I had instructed the owner, so he simply kept irritating his trachea and coughing.

Most of the recommended care is supportive. The use of nebulizers or vaporizers, even just shutting your dog in the bathroom while you shower, can help irritated tissues. While many dogs don’t require cough medications, you can discuss the use of an antitussive such as guaifenesin (Mucinex) or simply use a small bit of honey, which can help dogs with a severe cough.

If your dog appears to be ill, or getting worse, he may need veterinary attention. Cases that move on to pneumonia may require hospitalization with IV fluids and supplemental oxygen.

Prevent Kennel Cough

The best solution is to vaccinate your dog for at least Bordetella and parainfluenza, adding canine influenza if there is an outbreak in your area or your dog goes to dog activities with dogs from all over (sports events, training classes, and dog shows). Outdoor events have lower risk than big indoor events, just as in places people get COVID.

Remember, while some dogs with kennel cough sound horrible but most recover with home care. Be courteous to fellow dog lovers, and if your dog is coughing, keep him home.

How to Get a Sick Dog to Drink Water

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Getting a sick dog to drink water can be a challenge but there are several ways to encourage drinking.
Most dogs prefer fresh, cool water in a clean dish. Changing water every day and cleaning the water bowl are important to ensuring he drinks well. Credit: Alexei Tn | Getty Images

Whether your dog is sick, feeling a little off, or has an acute or chronic illness that makes him avoid water, he still needs to drink enough to stay hydrated. Dehydration is a serious state you want to avoid!

Getting a sick dog to drink can be tough to do, but we have ways to entice a dog to drink. Start with the most basic requirement: Cool, clean, and fresh water. If I notice one of my dogs drinking, I get up when he is done and rinse and refill the bowl. My older male Belgian Tervuren leaves the water bowl rather “slimy,” and my girls prefer a clean bowl and water. In hot weather, many dogs will drink more if you put some ice in their bowl.

Note: An elderly dog or any dog post dental work might prefer room-temperature water, as cool or cold water might be painful.

Flavorings for Dog Water

Beyond cool and fresh, you can add some flavoring to see if that helps increase your sick dog’s water intake. You can try:

Low-sodium bouillon. A small amount of bouillon in the water bowl is a tasty option with a nice aroma that even provides a little nutrition.

Tuna juice. Many dogs love the juice from tuna canned in water. The tuna juice also has an inviting smell that may inspire a sick dog to drink.

Chicken soup. We all laugh about chicken soup for sick people, but the attractive odor will get many a dog to lap some up. Once again, you provide a few nutrients, too. Just be sure to test that it is not hot!

Make a slurry. If your dog has a favorite food, you can often add water or put it in the blender and make a slurry. Canned food has more moisture than kibble, so try feeding some canned food for extra hydration.

How Much Water Should a Dog Drink?

Most internal medicine specialists generally agree that normal water consumption for healthy adult dogs, resting in a temperature-controlled environment, is 50 to 80 milliliters of water per kilogram of the dog’s body weight per day (mls/kg/day). To convert this to ordinary household measures, there are 30 mls in an ounce, 8 ounces in a cup, and .45 kg in a pound of body weight. What this works out to is rather simple: Normal water consumption is about an ounce of water per pound of the dog’s weight per day.

While this guide gets you in the ballpark of normal water consumption for an average dog, there are individual factors to consider:

  • Active dogs (and yes, some dogs will chase a ball even when ill), need extra fluid.
  • Dogs who are panting, whether due to hot weather or activity, need extra water. Dogs lose fluids via panting
  • Brachycephalic dogs (think short muzzles and faces, like Pugs), pant routinely and need extra water.
  • Sick dogs, especially with a fever, need extra water to stay properly hydrated.
  • Dogs battling liver or kidneys problems require plenty of fluid.
  • Any dog who has a gastrointestinal illness and is vomiting or has diarrhea or both is losing fluids and needs extra fluid intake to stay hydrated.

Warning Signs of a Dehydrated Dog

There may be times when you can’t stay ahead of your dog’s hydration needs despite your best efforts and he becomes dehydrated. His gums may be tacky to the touch and his mouth looks dry. If you tent his skin over his withers (highest point of his shoulders), it stays up (means he is really dehydrated) or returns to place slowly (somewhat dehydrated). Dehydration with no willingness to drink indicates a trip to the veterinarian for the possible administration of fluids (usually administered subcutaneous, or under the skin).

In many cases, your veterinary clinic staff can teach you how to administer subcutaneous fluids, so you can bring some home with you. Be sure to follow the protocol carefully to keep everything clean. These fluids will be absorbed over a couple of hours and can supplement anything you give orally. For severe cases, your dog may need to stay in the hospital and receive IV (intravenous) fluids.

Assessing Frailty in Dogs

By
Cindy Foley
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Dogs like people grow more frail as they age, and it is heartbreaking to see.
Draco, just a few days before he kept his appointment at the Rainbow Bridge. Credit: Cindy Foley

If we’re lucky, our dogs live a long, healthy life and, when their bodies wear out, they close their eyes and make that journey to the bottom of the Rainbow Bridge, where they romp with others until we arrive to cross the bridge with them into heaven. Unfortunately, a simple death like that is rarely the case, even in an ill dog, leaving owners with the agonizing decision about euthanasia and judging quality of life.

What Is Quality of Life in a Dog?

Veterinarians don’t have crystal balls that say it’s time to let your frail, elderly dog go, but they do have the education and experience to offer advice. Dr. Alice Villalobos, a renowned veterinarian, created a widely accepted way of judging your dog’s qualify of life using the “HHHHHMM Scale.”  The letters stand for Hurt, Hunger, Hydration, Hygiene, Happiness, Mobility, and More good days.

The HHHHHMM scale uses a scoring system to assess the dog. It’s still subjective, but it gives you a score. Some veterinarians advise that you score an ill dog every month, or every few weeks, to watch the dog’s progression. Quality of life is a tough thing to judge, and this scale, with its numerical final score, helps.

Judging Frailty in a Dog

So, what does “frail” really mean? It’s not a measure of age. I believe it’s a subjective measure of thriving. According to the Morris Animal Foundation: “Frailty is a physical state in which health reserves are limited, decreasing response to stress, and increasing death rate.”  In other words, a frail dog’s overall health and mental response to life are worsening. The likelihood of recovery is nonexistent, and the decision about euthanasia is no longer a matter of “should we?” but a decision about when. Pain is most certainly a factor in that decision.

A study funded by the Morris Animal Foundation and published September 24, 2024, in Frontiers in Veterinary Science, offers veterinarians a way to predict mortality within a six-month range using frailty. The North Carolina State University researchers hope to provide a way for veterinarians and dog owners to make decisions about what to do or not do to prolong a dog’s life. “Frailty is a well-defined clinical syndrome in humans caused by accumulation of impairments which result in loss of reserve capacity and increased vulnerability to disability, dependence, and death. Dogs are of particular interest in studies of frailty due to the similarities they share with people in their environment, lifestyles, and age-related diseases,” say the researchers.

They developed a frailty phenotype that is predictive of all-cause short-term mortality regardless of age, sex, and weight. Interestingly, the study found that breed was a significant factor in the analysis, with purebred dogs having 1.85 times higher mortality than mixed breed dogs. It does ask veterinarians to assess the dog’s body and muscle condition, which they routinely do at every veterinary visit.

“The tool—when coupled with simple assessments of body and muscle condition by the veterinarian—can predict the likelihood of short-term (within six months) mortality and provider important data to owners faced with treatment and quality of life decisions for their aging dogs,” says the news release from North Carolina State University.

No Desire to Stay Alive

The timing of this study’s release was tough for me. Some years ago, in the early fall, my frail husband was confined to a nursing facility due to a long illness. We both knew his time was short. We had four dogs, and I had finagled a way so I could bring one dog for a short visit. I expected my husband to choose the puppy we bought before he became ill, as he had never seen her. He didn’t. He asked for Draco, who was battling an inoperable tumor. I told him I would bring Draco on my next visit, hoping the visit would cheer them both up. Unfortunately, he never got to see Draco, as my husband died the next day.

Less than two weeks later, Draco, at age 16, indicated it was time to go. It was agonizing. I believe my husband arrived at the Rainbow Bridge and, after looking around, said, “Draco, come!” It’s comforting to think they are together.

So, while it’s still no crystal ball, frailty matters. Happiness matters. Pain matters. And sometimes, maybe, the timing matters. Meanwhile, this frailty study is another good tool we can use to help make the best decision for our beloved dogs.

Warning Signs After Spaying a Dog

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Warning signs after spaying a dog include swelling and discharge around the incision.
The veterinary surgical team will work to ensure your female dog’s spay incision heals well, but things can go wrong. It’s your responsibility to report any spay warning signs immediately. Credit: Anna Reshetnikova | Getty Images

Most dogs who have spay surgery go through the spay incision healing process without problems. It takes time for the incision to heal, which means the dog is on restricted activity for 10 to 14 days after the surgery.

You may notice a small amount of clear serum, or even some blood leaking from the incision post op. This should stop after a day or so. You need to gently clean this from around the incision and watch for any skin irritation.

Some dogs experience “clipper burn” from their hair being shaved and may appreciate some lotion on the red areas. Problems like an infected (red, inflamed) or swollen spay incision should be reported to your veterinarian immediately. As a guideline, consider that:

Minor concerns require observation and reporting to your veterinarian if they worsen. These include:

  • Small amount of swelling with no or minimal clear discharge (might be pink tinged)
  • Slight red irritation around incision (like clipper burn)

More serious concerns should be reported to your veterinarian. These include:

  • Swelling, discharge that might look like pus
  • Swelling is red and/or painful
  • Fever, not eating well
  • Continued bleeding (small amount) from the incision

Emergency concerns mean get to the vet now. Call the veterinarian or emergency clinic immediately to say you’re on your way if you notice:

  • Swelling that is painful with an opening to the abdomen palpable
  • Gastrointestinal signs such as vomiting or diarrhea
  • Incision is open to the abdomen, possibly intestines outside the abdomen
  • Non-stop bleeding from the incision

Most dogs come through spay surgery just fine and are back to normal activity and a flat belly in no time. Healing tissues are fragile, however. It is your responsibility to make sure your dog stays quiet. Overexertion can cause a post spay hernia.

Pay attention to the instructions you receive post-surgery, which may include very short leash walks and no running or romping with other dogs. The less movement in the area, the faster the tissues can heal.

Stop Licking or Chewing at the Incision

It is vital to prevent your dog from licking or chewing at the incision. She might remove sutures well before the outer layer is healed, which then allows her access to inner layers too. Your dog’s mouth and saliva are not sterile so she could introduce bacteria into the damaged tissues and cause an abscess.

If licking and chewing lead to infection, your dog will need to go on some antibiotics. She may also need warm compresses to help any abscessed area drain.

Licking and chewing can be stopped in many ways:

  • The infamous Elizabethan collar. This is the inexpensive a wide, hard plastic collar we’re all familiar with. It is effective, but dogs tend to not adapt well to them.
  • A soft donut-shaped collar. Kind of like a wide pillow around her neck that she can’t reach around.
  • A neck brace. Be very careful with fit to be sure your dog sure your dog can’t reach around and still lick or chew.
  • A post-surgical suit. These suits look like close-fitting pajamas that protect the incision site from licking and chewing. An inexpensive option is to try a human baby onesie, which will cover the incision and fit closely enough to protect it.

If you choose to use a surgical suit or a onesie, be sure your dog can eliminate without getting the suit soiled, which may entail you unbuttoning it. Most importantly, it should be comfortable for your dog to lie down in, walk around in, and sleep with it on.

Understanding Spay Incision Healing

A spay incision has a multilayer closure. After removing the uterus and ovaries, your veterinarian sutured the abdominal wall, the subcutaneous tissues, and the skin. The skin closure may have obvious sutures or may be closed with subcuticular stitches (you can’t see any sutures with this method). Other options are wound glue, which is not used very often, and skin staples.

Incisions heal side to side and not end to end, so a long incision heals as fast as a short one. Older dogs, chubby dogs, and deep-bodied dogs often require slightly longer incisions for your veterinarian to safely tie off all blood vessels and remove both ovaries and the uterus. Don’t go comparing incision lengths with your friends! It will be different for each dog.

With a perfect recovery, your dog will basically have a flat abdomen. If she gets swelling at the incision site it could be a couple of causes:

A seroma. In this case, the body puts some fluid in the area due to irritation or a mild allergic reaction to the suture materials. In this case, there is no redness, minimal heat or pain associated with the swelling. With time, the fluid will resorb, and your dog will be svelte once more. Warm compresses may be recommended to speed up resorption times.

A post-surgery hernia. This is an uncommon event but requires a veterinary visit ASAP. In this case, the inner suture lines have broken down. That leaves an opening from the abdomen to under the skin. Unfortunately, intestines could be trapped there with serious consequences, especially if they twist and the blood supply is cut off, which can lead to necrotic, dead tissue. Most dogs with a hernia will show pain, many have gastrointestinal upsets, and an opening may be palpable. If the incision totally opens, it is an immediate emergency!

Most Spays Are Simple

If your dog is young with a good weight, and healthy, her recovery will go quickly and smoothly. Even so, I would wait for three to four weeks before doing things like herding sheep or running agility, especially if the dog is older. Remember that your dog has lost some muscle and fitness with the time for surgery recovery, so plan to build her back up a bit.

If your dog’s spay was in conjunction with a C-section, pyometra (infected uterus), or cancer surgery, expect her recovery to be a bit slower. She will most likely be put on antibiotics and may have more extensive restrictions on activity. If she was producing milk, you will need to watch for signs of mastitits: a red, swollen, painful gland; fever; unusual discharge (not normal milk).

Why Do Dogs Have Whiskers and Should You Cut Them?

By
Dan Muse
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A dog's whisker serve an important sensory function and should not be cut.
A dog’s whiskers serve important sensory and protective functions for your dog. Credit: Boy Anupong | Getty Images

When you think of whiskers, you probably picture cats, but dogs also possess a set of whiskers on their muzzle, cheeks, and above their eyes that serve important specific purposes.

Whiskers, also known as vibrissae, play a crucial role in your dog’s perception of the world around him and trace back to his breed’s ancestry. For example, hounds and terriers have longer, more pronounced whiskers, while other breeds without the genes for hunting and tracking may have shorter or less-prominent whiskers.

While whiskers may vary in appearance across breeds, all dogs have them and understanding their function will help you make informed decisions about their care and answer questions such as should you cut your dog’s whiskers (no!).

Why Do Dogs Have Whiskers?

Whiskers are sensitive and embedded in follicles that connect to nerves, allowing dogs to detect even small movements and changes in their environment. The role of whiskers includes:

  • Navigation. Whiskers help dogs navigate their surroundings by providing information about objects, obstacles, and potential threats. This is particularly important in close quarters because dogs’ sense of sight is better suited for longer distances. Supplemental vibrissae extensions have even been found to assist blind dogs
  • Sensory awareness. Whiskers are sensitive to touch and pressure, detecting even the faintest breeze or the presence of nearby objects, enabling dogs to react quickly to changes in their environment.
  • Detecting prey. In their primal days, whiskers were crucial for hunting. They helped dogs detect prey, track their movements, and avoid obstacles in the dark.
  • Expressing emotion. Along with body posture, tail position, and vocalizations, whiskers play a subtle role in expressing a dog’s emotions. For example, when a dog is relaxed, their whiskers typically rest in a natural position. If a dog is curious, whiskers may become more erect or twitch. When a dog feels threatened or aggressive, their whiskers might flare out sideways or downward, indicating discomfort or a readiness to defend themselves.
  • Protection. Whiskers can serve as a protective mechanism. For example, those near your dog’s eyes may trigger a reflexive blink when they are touched, helping to shield the eyes from potential harm.

Can You Cut Dog Whiskers?

While your dog’s whiskers will grow back if you cut them, it’s important to remember that you’re compromising their sensory abilities. Trimming whiskers might tempt you for aesthetic reasons, especially if you’re showing your dog and need to meet specific requirements.

“If you touch his whiskers, your dog will often reflexively blink because of the information the whisker transmitted to the brain: Something is near the face, protect the eye! Whiskers serve an important sensory and protective function for your dog,” says Syracuse, N.Y., veterinarian and Whole Dog Journal contributor Dr. Andrea Lee. This sensory area is particularly concentrated in the regions associated with whiskers, which highlights their importance for a dog’s neurological function.

If your dog’s whiskers are becoming overly long or matted, consult with a professional groomer who can trim them carefully without compromising their functionality. Your veterinarian can also provide advice on how to maintain your dog’s whiskers and keep them clean and healthy.

Salmonella in Pet Food

By
Nancy Kerns
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A product recall warning symbol.
Not all food recalls are actually a huge cause for concern—for our dogs, at least. All dog owners should be aware of the potential for human bacterial illness posed by dog food and chews. Credit: Getty Images

A friend asked me the other day, “Aren’t you concerned about feeding food from [company name redacted]? Because of all the recalls they’ve had?” When she clarified that the recall she was referencing was for Salmonella in a raw food, I told her why that didn’t particularly worry me. However, some recalls for Salmonella in dry dog foods concern me a bit more. She found the explanation interesting, so I’m going to reiterate it here:

Salmonella is a nearly ubiquitous bacteria in the animal world. Cattle, chickens, rodents, reptiles, and amphibians commonly carry Salmonella in their intestines and show no signs of illness. According to the Merck Manual, salmonellosis is most prevalent in regions with intensive animal husbandry, where food-source animals live in densely packed spaces where contact with their feces cannot be avoided. More than 2,500 groups (called serotypes) of Salmonella have been identified, including around 100 that cause illness (called salmonellosis) in humans.

According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), humans commonly get infected with Salmonella by eating contaminated food, such as raw or undercooked meat and poultry products, raw or undercooked eggs or egg products, raw or unpasteurized milk and dairy products, and raw fruits and vegetables. Poultry is among the leading sources of Salmonella foodborne illness acquired domestically in the United States. Currently, according to Consumer Reports, a chicken processing facility is allowed to have Salmonella in up to 9.8 percent of all whole birds it tests, 15.4 percent of all parts, and 25 percent of ground chicken. Food producers and manufacturers are expected to take all steps possible to reduce the levels of bacteria in their products, but the fact that there are allowable amounts at all is due to the expectation that the meats will be cooked before being consumed, thus rendering the bacteria harmless.

Humans are much more prone to salmonellosis than dogs. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention:

“Each year in the U.S., there are about 1.35 million cases of salmonellosis, with 26,500 hospitalizations and 420 deaths. Contaminated food is the source for most of these cases. Salmonellosis is the second leading cause of foodborne illnesses in the U.S. (after norovirus), but is the leading cause of hospitalizations and deaths from food poisoning.”

In contrast to humans, dogs who consume Salmonella-infected food (or Salmonella-infected feces) rarely suffer symptoms of salmonellosis. Cases of salmonellosis in dogs seem to occur only if a dog has consumed a sufficiently large dose of a virulent serotype of the bacteria, in which case they may develop acute enteritis. Some studies assert that as many as 20% of dogs may be infected with Salmonella—some with more than one serotype—without any symptoms of illness. Dogs who are carriers of the bacteria can shed the bacteria in their feces and saliva and thus serve as sources of infection in humans.

This is why the FDA is concerned about Salmonella in pet food, treats, and chews—because of the risk to humans who handle pet food and dishes, and who have household contact with dogs who may become infected from eating/chewing contaminated food.

When Should We Worry?

Because of the relatively ample amounts of Salmonella in our meat supply, it should be understood that pet food that is meant to be served to our dogs uncooked may well contain some amount of Salmonella, unless that food has been treated in some way to kill the bacteria. In addition to cooking, pet food producers may use high pressure pasteurization (HPP), irradiation, lactic and acetic acid washes, and/or a new technique called refrigerated instantaneous temperature cycling (RITC), a direct steam injection and vacuum expansion chilling meat pasteurization system, to reduce or eliminate the pathogenic bacteria that may be present in their products.

If the producer of a raw meat-based pet food doesn’t take any of these steps, they stand a much higher chance of having Salmonella detected in their products by the FDA, who will then issue a recall for the entire batch or lot of food that delivered a positive test result—even though the chance of a dog getting sick from the product is vanishingly small. In this case, it’s the humans who live with the dogs who eat the food that the FDA is trying to protect.

Still, people who feed raw diets to their dogs are generally aware of the risks of Salmonella (and other pathogenic bacteria) that may be present in raw meat-based foods, and handle those products and their serving dishes accordingly. You’d never let your toddler or an immune-compromised person in your household handle raw chicken, and every raw dog food I’ve ever seen is covered with warnings to protect vulnerable humans from exposure to the potential presence of pathogenic bacteria in a similar fashion.

I have greater concern about foods that have been produced via a method that absolutely kills pathogenic bacteria—that is, extruded and baked dry foods—that have tested positive for Salmonella. Why? Because most people handle these products as if they do not contain potentially pathogenic bacteria. Lots of people use kibble as treats, using their bare hands. Few people wash their dogs’ bowls daily in hot water and with soap, or wash their hands well after handling kibble or their kibble scooper. Most of us handle kibble like a breakfast cereal, free of pathogens—because it is supposed to be, but it might not be!

Baking and extruding does kill pathogenic bacteria, so when a dry food tests positive for Salmonella, it’s evidence that the food was contaminated after it was baked or extruded, either by bacterial-contaminated equipment or contaminated coatings that are applied after the kibble is cooked. Either route of contamination indicates a faulty or sloppy process, which makes me suspicious of the producer’s abilities.

All of this is why I’m not particularly concerned when a raw-food manufacturer has a recall for Salmonella-contaminated food, but my hackles go up when a dry-food maker issues an identical recall notice. In neither case am I worried about dogs getting sick from Salmonella; rather, I worry about vulnerable humans (such as toddlers or immune-compromised people) getting sick from treating kibble as an absolutely safe product when it may not be.

How To Get Started in Fast CAT, the Best Sport for Speedy Dogs

By
Jae Thomas
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Coursing is a sport that lets dogs who like to run show what they can do.
A type of lure coursing, FAST CAT challenges your dog to a timed 100-meter dash after a plastic lure. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

From the day we brought her home at 10 weeks old, my Rough Collie puppy, Dashi, was obsessed with flirt poles, toys on long strings or ropes, and anything she could chase or pounce on. As a herding dog, she’s extremely attracted to movement, and anything quick-moving triggers her instinctual herding and chasing drive.

Fast CAT–short for fast coursing ability test–can be an excellent activity for dogs like Dashi who love the act of chasing, and it’s an extremely beginner-friendly dog sport that doesn’t require much training. If your pup is obsessed with the flirt pole or just needs an appropriate outlet for their prey drive, look into trying AKC Fast CAT.

What is Fast CAT?

At its core, Fast CAT is a type of lure coursing sport. During Fast CAT tests, dogs run a timed 100-meter dash chasing a lure (a plastic bag or other piece of plastic) on a moving line down a fenced-in course. Dogs are released by one person at the beginning of the course and caught at the end of the course by another. They accumulate points towards titles based on a formula that takes into account the dog’s height and speed, and even get ranked against other dogs in their breed.

How to Get Started in AKC Fast CAT

Fast CAT has the fewest barriers to entry of almost any dog sport. As an instinct-based sport, many dogs who like to chase will be able to enter an event and start accumulating points and titles with little to no practice. There are just a few rules all participants must follow:

Lure coursing is a canine sport that allows fast dogs to show off their speed.
It doesn’t take much practice to get start in Fast CAT, but good conditioning can go a long way to improving your dog’s times. Credit: Runner Photography
  • Your dog must have an AKC registration number, or if your dog is a mixed-breed, an AKC PAL number.
  • Your dog must be over 12 months of age to do an official run. Some clubs will allow puppy bumps (a shortened course length) or fun runs for younger dogs, but these don’t count towards title points.
  • Your dog must be physically sound. Fast CAT organizers will have you trot your dog down and back when you check into a test to make sure your dog isn’t limping and is moving normally.
  • If you have an intact female, she can’t be in heat at the time of the run. Fast CAT organizers will ask you to do a “tissue test” wipe when checking in to make sure your bitch isn’t in season.

How to Find and Enter Fast CAT Events

The easiest way to find Fast CAT tests near you is to use the AKC Event Search tool. Once you’re on the event search page, just click on “performance events”, then select Fast CAT. You can then filter upcoming events by date, state, and more criteria. Once you’ve found an event you’re interested in, click on “View Complete Event Details,” and you’ll get information like the host club’s website, the event chair, the Fast CAT contact person, and more.

AKC’s Event Search doesn’t always give you a direct link to enter Fast CAT tests. You’ll sometimes need to do some extra digging to find the actual event through a club website, or you may need to email the contact person listed for more information. In addition to AKC Event Search, joining Facebook groups related to dog sports can be a good way to find out about upcoming Fast CAT tests. Fast CAT is often held in conjunction with all-breed dog shows too, so check out the premium lists of any upcoming dog shows in your area to see if Fast CAT will be offered.

Many Fast CAT organizers offer discounted pre-entry if you register for runs ahead of time. In terms of cost, fun runs or puppy bumps are usually around $10, and pre-registration for real runs can run between $20-$35 per run depending on the area and the lure operator. Day-of registration is sometimes available too but is often more expensive than the pre-registration cost.

Tips for Your First Fast CAT Event

A collie prepares to launch into a sprint during a lure coursing event.
To begin a Fast CAT run, the dog is released by a handler. A second person, usually the dog’s primary handler, stands at the other end to catch her. Credit: Jae Thomas

If you know someone who can release your dog for you at the start line, ask them to come along! Oftentimes, it’s recommended that the dog’s owner be the one to catch them at the end of a Fast CAT run, so they sprint fast to get to you. Event staff usually have an extra person on hand to help release dogs, but if your dog isn’t comfortable with strangers handling them, it may be less stressful to have someone they know release them.

The Fast CAT environment can be overstimulating for some dogs. Many dogs bark and get over excited when they see the lure, so it’s best to wait for your dog’s turn away from the actual course. It’s a good idea to bring a crate and some kind of crate cover so you can give your dog some space away from the commotion.

Lastly, make sure to warm your dog up before her run! You wouldn’t want to do a 100-meter dash right after waking up from a nap, so walk your dog around, jog a bit, or do some canine conditioning exercises to get her ready to run her fastest.

How to Calculate Fast CAT Points

An award winning dog poses with her beautiful prize ribbon.
Fast CAT is open to all breeds and mixes. Participating dogs can earn points toward titles. Credit: Jae Thomas

Once your dog has run her first Fast CAT dash, you’ll probably want to see how fast she ran and how many points she earned. To get the miles per hour calculation, divide 204.54 by your dog’s run time. To calculate points, multiply that number by your dog’s handicap. Handicap depends on height and is intended to even the playing field for dogs of all sizes. For dogs under 12” at the withers, the handicap is 2, for dogs between 12” and 18”, the handicap is 1.5. Sorry large dogs, any dog over 18” at the shoulder has a handicap of 1, meaning their score won’t change due to their height.

For example, my Collie’s most recent run time was 9.72 seconds. When I divide 204.54 by 9.74, I get 21.04, which is her MPH. She’s over 18” at the shoulder, so I’ll multiply that by 1, which leaves me with the same number. That means she earned 21.04 points for her 9.72 second run.

Once your dog starts accumulating points, you can aim to start collecting titles (which often come with fun ribbons and rosettes). Here’s the lineup of Fast CAT titles and the respective points needed to achieve them:

  • BCAT: 150 points
  • DCAT: 500 points
  • FCAT: 1000 points

FCAT2, FCAT 3, etc: Dogs can gain additional FCAT levels with every additional 500 points earned

Easy Recipes for Pumpkin Dog Treats

By
CJ Puotinen
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Pumpkin dog treats can offer a seasonal and healthy treat for your dog.
Dog treats made with pumpkin, like the pumpkin peanut butter biscuits and pumpkin, carrot, and coconut biscuits pictured here, are a perfect fall treat for your dog. Credit: CJ Puotinen

Even though it’s best known for improving symptoms of indigestion, loose stools, and diarrhea, small amounts of pumpkin are appropriate anytime. Most dogs love the taste and pumpkin’s prebiotic fibers support the microbiome. Best of all, pumpkin dog treats are easy and fun to make.

 

 

 

Start With the Right Kind of Pumpkin

Plain pureed canned pumpkin is your primary ingredient. Try a made-for-dogs product like  Nummy Tum Tum Organic Pumpkin for Pets or use a single-ingredient canned pumpkin, such as Libby’s Pure Pumpkin Puree, Farmer’s Market Organic Pumpkin Puree or Lucky Leaf Canned Pumpkin. Canned pumpkin pie mix, which contains sugar and spices, is not recommended.

To make your own puree from fresh pumpkin, use small pumpkins sold for pie making rather than the fibrous jack-o-lantern pumpkins associated with October 31st. Cut 2 small pumpkins in half, scrape the seeds out with a spoon, and place the pieces face-down on a baking sheet. Bake at 350ºF (177ºC) for 45 minutes or until the pumpkin is golden brown and fork-tender. Peel the skin off and place chunks in a blender or food processor, adding a small amount of water if needed. Pulse or blend the pumpkin until smooth. Alternatively, mash the pumpkin with a potato masher, press it through a potato ricer, or process it with a food mill.

Store pumpkin puree in an airtight container in your refrigerator for up to 7 days, or place it in a Ziplock freezer bag, press the air out, and freeze it for up to 6 months.

Basic Instructions for Pumpkin Dog Biscuits

When making pumpkin dog biscuits, combine dry ingredients with a mixer, food processor, or by hand, then add other ingredients to create a stiff or soft dough. Lightly grease cookie sheets or line them with kitchen parchment paper before baking to prevent sticking.

Stiff doughs can be rolled flat with a rolling pin (place dough between two sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap or on a floured surface before rolling) and shaped with a cookie cutter, pizza cutter, or knife. For dog-related cookie cutters, visit

LokiDokiDog Cookie Cutters, The Cookie Cutter Shop Dog Cookie Cutters, or

Cheap Cookie Cutters Dog Collection. You can also shape stiff dough as a log or cylinder, wrap it in plastic wrap, refrigerate until firm, then slice the roll into discs. To create small round pumpkins, roll dough into balls, pull up to create a little stem on top, and press vertical lines into the sides with a knife.

Soft doughs can be pressed into silicon molds, such as those sold by SodaPup or Etsy Silicone Dog Bone Molds.

Most dog biscuit recipes call for wheat flour, but gluten-free flours are widely sold. Blends containing almond flour, coconut flour, arrowroot starch, tapioca starch, cassava flour, rice flour, or potato starch are designed to replace equal quantities of wheat flour. In the following dog biscuit recipes, use wheat flour or shop for a gluten-free or Paleo flour labeled as a one-to-one replacement for wheat flour.

All recipes are adjustable, so if a dough seems too liquid, add a little more flour, finely ground oats or other thickener. Baking times are approximate because cookie thickness, oven temperatures, and ingredients vary. I used Cup4Cup gluten-free flour to test the recipes given here.

For recipes using peanut butter, try made-for-dog brands that don’t contain xylitol, hydrogenated vegetable oils, sugar, or molasses. Examples include:

While baking dog treats, check the oven every 10 minutes and reduce or extend baking time as needed. Cool treats on a wire rack. Leaving treats at room temperature for a day or two helps harden biscuits to make them crunchier. Depending on ingredients, home-prepared treats may last several days to a week or more at room temperature or longer in the refrigerator. For long-term storage, freeze in air-tight containers. For holiday baking, mix cookie doughs ahead of time and refrigerate or freeze them until a few days before gift giving, then bake and gift-wrap.

Try These Easy Recipes

Cookies and biscuits are excellent pumpkin flavored treats for dogs.
Soft pumpkin treats are great for dogs who have tooth problems or don’t prefer crunchy biscuits. Credit: CJ Puotinen

Pumpkin Peanut Butter Biscuits for Dogs

  • 3/4 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup peanut butter
  • 1 egg
  • 2 cups gluten-free or equivalent flour

Combine the pumpkin, peanut butter, and egg yolk in a large bowl. Gradually add flour and stir until combined. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough to 1/4-inch thickness. Cut shapes by hand or with cookie cutters and place 1 inch apart on prepared cookie sheets. Bake at 375oF (190oC) for 20-25 minutes or until lightly brown.

Pumpkin, Carrot, and Coconut Biscuits for Dogs

  • 2 cups gluten-free or equivalent flour
  • 3/4 cup pumpkin puree
  • 2 tablespoons unsweetened peanut or almond butter
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 cup grated carrots
  • 1 cup shredded dried unsweetened coconut

Combine ingredients, roll to 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick and shape with cookie cutters. Bake at 350oF (177oC) for 30 to 35 minutes, or until lightly brown.

Soft Pumpkin Treats for Dogs

“Soft” treats are appreciated by dogs with tooth problems. Most contain vegetable glycerin, a plant-derived syrup that acts as a moisturizer and preservative. Food-grade vegetable glycerin from Glycerin Supplier, Starwest Botanicals, and other manufacturers is sold online and in natural food stores. If you don’t have vegetable glycerin, substitute honey, which also works well in soft treats.

  • 2 cups pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup grated apple or 1/4 cup applesauce
  • 1/4 cup honey or vegetable glycerin
  • 1 egg
  • 1-1/2 cups gluten-free or equivalent flour

Combine ingredients and drop dough with a teaspoon to form mounds on prepared baking sheets, placing them an inch or more apart. Bake at 350oF (177oC) for 20 minutes. Refrigerate in an airtight container to maintain soft consistency and prevent mold growth.

Frozen Pumpkin Treats for Dogs

Frozen pumpkin dog treats are quick to mix, but take time to freeze.
Though they take some time to freeze, pumpkin frozen yogurt treats are quick and easy to make. Credit: CJ Puotinen

 

Here are three simple variations:

Pumpkin Peanut Butter Frozen Treats

  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup peanut butter
  • 1/4 cup melted or softened coconut oil

Pumpkin Frozen Yogurt Treats

  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup Greek yogurt or regular yogurt that you strain overnight through cheesecloth or a mesh strainer to thicken it
  • 1/4 cup melted or softened coconut oil

Pumpkin Banana Frozen Treats

  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup mashed ripe banana
  • 1/4 cup melted or softened coconut oil

Mix ingredients and fill silicone molds or ice cube trays. Freeze for at least 2 hours, then remove treats from the molds or trays and store them in an air-tight freezer bag or container. Remove treats from the freezer a few minutes before serving.

Pumpkin Gummy Treats for Dogs

Gummy pumpkin dog treats are an intriguing change from the usual dog treat.
Pumpkin gummy treats are perfect for training or as a yummy topper for your dog’s dinner. Credit: CJ Puotine

 

Gelatin is the key ingredient in sweet or savory gummy treats. Unflavored gelatin powder is available from Great Lakes Grass-Fed Gelatin, Knox Gelatine, and other brands. Soda Pup sells Dogtastic Jelly Shots Gelatin with holiday-themed silicone molds. Gelatin is recommended for aging joints, increased mobility, improved digestion, strong bones, and skin and coat health. Unfortunately, gelatin does not freeze well. Use gummies as training treats or as additions to your dog’s dinner. Adding more gelatin will create firmer gummies.

For your first gummies, sprinkle 3 tablespoons gelatin powder over 1/4 cup unheated coconut water, bone broth, soup stock, water, or other liquid and let it stand a minute or two until the gelatin is absorbed. Heat 1/2 cup of the same liquid until almost boiling, add it to the gelatin, and stir to blend. Add 1/2 cup pumpkin puree and stir gently. Pour into a lightly oiled silicon mold, loaf pan, or tray. Refrigerate until firm. Remove gummies from silicon molds. If using a loaf pan, remove the single slab of cold gelatin and cut it with a knife or cookie cutters. Refrigerate gummies, tightly sealed, for up to 2 weeks.

Weathering Storms With Your Dog

By
Kate O'Connor
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Being prepared can save both you and your dog during an emergency.
Even if you don’t have to evacuate, strong wind, torrential rain, flooding, and infrastructure damage can keep you and your dog trapped in the house during and after a big storm. Make sure you have everything you need to be safe. Credit: Chalabala | Getty Images

Here in Georgia, the end of last week was windy, waterlogged, and a good reminder of how important it can be for everyone—especially pet owners—to be prepared for natural disasters. Although I’ve lived in hurricane-prone regions before, I moved to the area a month ago from the northeastern U.S. and neither my human nor dog hurricane kits are quite what they used to be. The impending arrival of Hurricane Helene not only called for refreshing them, it got me thinking about what I really needed on hand to feel like I could keep my dog safe.

Putting Together an Emergency Kit for Your Dog

Even if you don’t live in an area where natural disasters occur often, it’s a good idea to keep some kind of emergency kit on hand. I’ve only had to use mine a few times, thank goodness, but it’s been invaluable when I’ve needed it.

Some things to include in an emergency kit are:

  • Food: I prefer to have a minimum of two weeks of food on hand. If your dog is on a special diet, remember that supply lines can be affected if the damage is bad enough. It might be worth storing more if you can.
  • Water: It’s generally recommended that you have at least 3 days’ worth of clean drinking water available. That’s typically calculated as 1 gallon of water per person per day plus extra for pets. I plan an extra gallon per day for my Airedale, Carmen, who weighs about 50 pounds.
  • Medications: If your dog is on medication, make sure you have several weeks’ worth available. Again, you don’t want to be frantically searching for an essential medication if disaster damage slows down shipments.
  • First-aid kit: A basic pet first-aid kit can be a big help for minor injuries, especially if you can’t make it to a veterinarian. For some suggestions on what to include, see “12 Items to Include in Your DIY Dog First-Aid Kit.”
  • Paperwork: It’s a good idea to keep printed copies of your dog’s vaccine records, vet contact info, microchip information, food and medication schedules, and a photo in your emergency kit. If you need to send your dog with someone else—for example, if you were badly injured and had to be taken to the hospital—this can make all the difference in keeping her safe and healthy until you can get back to her.
  • Extra collar and leash: It’s always a good idea to have spares in case something breaks.
  • Crate or carrier: It’s important to have an easily transportable, secure way to contain your pet. If you have a large dog, consider a collapsable travel crate. The last thing you want is for her to bolt in a strange place.
  • Bowls and bedding: While not essential, it’s a huge help to have food and water bowls on hand. I keep a water bucket that I can clip to the crate door. Familiar bedding can help a dog feel more comfortable in an unfamiliar environment.

Preparing for Evacuation

Evacuating with dogs can be difficult, especially if you have multiple animals or if they are not used to car travel. If you think you might need to evacuate, go as early as you can. Pack the car well in advance. If you need to get several crates or carriers in the car, I’d recommend doing a test run to make sure everything fits the way you think it will. Trying to outrun a storm is the wrong time to discover that you need an extra inch of clearance to get the travel crates in the back seat.

You’ll also need a plan for where you are going to go and where you will stay when you get there. Pet-friendly hotels can book up fast. Some states, of which Georgia is one, provide resources for evacuating pet owners that include lists of pet-friendly places to stay.

Pack your emergency kit and, if at all possible make sure your dog is wearing a collar or harness with a current identification and rabies tags.

Sheltering at Home

For the most part, the things you need to shelter at home with your dog during a natural disaster will be in your emergency kit: food, medication, first-aid kit, and so on. Although I don’t use them day-to-day, I do stock potty pads in case taking my dog outside to relieve herself is unsafe. As a note, if you decide to use something similar, you will need to work with your dog first to be sure she’s comfortable using them.

Keep in mind that the intensity of a hurricane or tropical storm can be frightening to your dog even if she is not usually afraid of storms. The same goes for blizzards, floods, fires, and other natural disasters. Extreme conditions can be scary for all involved. Watch for signs of stress and be prepared to comfort your dog if she needs it.

Finally, if you find yourself stuck inside with an energetic young dog (which is exactly what happened to me last week), it doesn’t hurt to have some entertainment planned. It’ll help keep you both sane until the weather clears.

The long and short of all of this is that being prepared can save a lot of stress and potential heartache. If you’re not sure what to do, the U.S. government, along with organizations such as the American Red Cross, offer resources aimed at helping pet owners prepare for emergencies. If you haven’t done so already, I highly recommend making an emergency kit for your dogs and spending a bit of time thinking through what you might need to do in the event of a natural disaster.

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Most trainers don't recommend adopting littermates.
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Don’t Adopt Littermates

Nancy Kerns 13
STOP! Don’t do it! Whether the idea of adopting two puppies just occurred to you, or you had been planning to adopt two all along, every trainer I’ve ever met would advise you to think twice and adopt just one. Because training and socializing littermates well is more than twice as difficult as training and socializing one puppy.
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