Some unenlightened trainers caution against playing tug with your dog, with dire warnings about dominance and aggression. Modern, educated trainers recognize that as long as you play tug in a manner that doesn’t reinforce unwanted behaviors, the game can be extremely beneficial. Tug is good exercise, can reinforce desirable behaviors, and has nothing to do with dominance. Here are a few important rules for safe and beneficial tug-play:
1. Your dog needs to wait for an invitation to play tug. Tell her to wait; then hold up the tug toy. If she jumps for it, say, “Oops!” and hide the toy behind your back. Repeat until you can hold up the toy and she doesn’t try to grab it.
2. Now give her permission to grab the toy with your “Tug!” cue. Let her fiercely shake it back and forth and growl in play, while you hang onto your end and encourage her to tug.
3. Occasionally ask her to “Trade” and offer her a treat in exchange for the toy. When she gives it up, return to Step 1 and ask her to “Wait” until you invite her to play again.
4. If at any time her teeth touch your skin or clothing, she gets an “Oops!” and the toy goes away for a few minutes. You can then initiate play again. If necessary to keep yourself safe, you can stand inside an exercise pen with her on the outside when you tug, until she learns the rules.
That’s it! I don’t care who “wins.” We can alternate! I don’t care who initiates play; he can bring me the toy and ask me to play, or I can pick up the toy and start the game. There’s just one last really important rule:
Finishing up my morning chores, I am sweeping the barn aisle when I hear ferocious growling erupt in the feed room. Do I drop my broom and run to break up a dog fight? No, I chuckle to myself and keep on sweeping. I know that two of my dogs are playing tug with their favorite rope toy and that the ruckus is nothing to be concerned about. I can easily interpret the tone of the growling, and recognize it as healthy, mutually enjoyable play. Also, my experience and education in canine behavior has led to my understanding that canine growling, in all of its various presentations, is a good thing, not a bad thing.
In the old-fashioned dog training world, generally all growling was perceived as bad – an aggressive threat. Anything that elicited a growl from a dog was bad, too, which is why many dog owners have been warned against playing tug with their dogs – because it encourages aggression, as evidenced by the dog’s growls. I give myself a mental smack on the forehead every time I hear this; it’s inconceivable to me that some dog training “professionals” still perpetuate this myth despite all the evidence to the contrary. My clients are invariably thrilled when I give them permission – no, encourage them – to play tug with their dogs.
Modern trainers know that dogs growl for a variety of reasons, and that all growling communicates important information to an educated dog owner.
So what are the various kinds of growling, and why are they all good?
1. Play Growl
Like my dogs in the feed room, dogs often growl while playing, just as they exhibit other behaviors in play that are often associated with aggression, such as bites, snarls, muzzle punches, and body slams. Whether the growls happen during a rousing game of tug or a more physical play encounter, the key here is that the dogs know they are playing. Often accompanied by play bows and other body language cues that telegraph to the playmates that it’s all in fun, pseudo-aggression is just part of the game.
Some owners, uncomfortable with any growling, stop perfectly healthy play, preventing their dogs from engaging in a normal, beneficial social activity. In reality, dog-human tug is a great game: it’s good exercise, an excellent reinforcer for other behaviors, and strengthens the bond between dog and owner when they engage in a mutually enjoyable game. (See “Rules for Tug,” at right.)
In healthy dog-dog play, if Dog A starts to escalate his level of arousal to a level that makes Dog B uncomfortable, Dog B signals his discomfort with appeasing body language and Dog A tones it down a couple of notches. Dog A happily rejoins the fun, and the growling and biting resume.
Aggressive, aroused play goes sour when Dog A ignores Dog B’s discomfort and continues to escalate. Rather than happily continuing to engage, Dog B clearly tries to avoid the activity – often unsuccessfully as Dog A continues his pursuit. When this happens, Dog B may escalate to defensive aggression in order to try to get Dog A to back off.
While Dog B often gets blamed for “starting” the fight, Dog A is really the culprit. The problem here is not the growling, but rather Dog A’s inappropriate play style and poor social skills. It is appropriate for the human to cheerfully intervene (before the fight happens!) when one dog is clearly not enjoying the interaction.
2. “Talking” Growl
There are several breeds of dogs that are well-known for growling as a way of “talking.” Rottweilers are the most notorious for this, but there are many more. Just as the submissive grin is often mistaken for a real snarl by uninformed humans, the growly talking dog is often misunderstood by people who may think he is being aggressive. Not so!
That said, you have to pay attention to the entire package of body language with growly “talkers.” Perhaps your neighbor’s Rottie is leaning against you in what seems like a friendly manner. You oblige with a good butt-scratch. As your fingernails find that spot just above his tail, you feel the rumble of a growl vibrate though him. Yikes! Is he about to bite you? Should you stop scratching? It depends.
If the dog is still leaning against you, with relaxed ears, eyes a little squinty, and an open, relaxed mouth, this dog’s growl is just expressing his pleasure; he’s really enjoying his canine massage. If, however, he stands up, his body tense and still, his eyes hard, and his mouth closed, then yes, he has taken offense.
There’s a good chance it’s the first scenario, not the second. If you’re sure he’s loving it, resume scratching. If not, sit still, avoid eye contact, and calmly ask the dog’s owner to call him away. When the dog has moved away, explain to the owner what happened, and ask for her interpretation. Owners of growly dogs are sometimes pretty good at being able to decode their dogs’ messages. (But not always, so trust your own instincts, too!)
These dogs may also growl-talk as a means of communication in other situations, and the tone of the growl can even vary slightly, providing even more information to the educated ear. That deep grumble might mean, “I’d like my dinner, please,” while a higher-pitched, more intense growl might mean, “I need to go out to potty, now!”
3. Alert Growl
Your dog may also growl to let the rest of his social group (including you) know there’s something to be concerned about. A noise outside, or elsewhere in the house, may elicit what I call the “alert growl,” meaning, “Hey, everyone, pay attention! There’s something out there and I’m not sure what it is, but it could be a threat. Someone might want to check it out!!”
Often, if you do check it out and assure your dog that all is well (and thank him for doing his job), he’ll relax and go about his business. Absent that, he may feel the need to continue to warn about the perceived possible threat or intruder.
Of course, checking it out isn’t a guarantee that he’ll stop alerting. If he feels that something more needs to be done, he may continue his efforts to warn you that danger is afoot. If so, it may help to actually show him the source of the noise, so he can reassure himself that all is well.
4. Warning Growl
As long as they have not been punished for growling (and we’ll talk more about that momentarily), dogs will usually issue a warning growl to humans or another dog if they are uncomfortable. It’s important to understand that a warning is a good thing!
Most dogs don’t want to bite or fight. Social groups work because members tend to avoid violence, so a system of communication develops to facilitate avoidance of aggression. The behaviors that signal pending aggression are intended, first and foremost, to warn away a threat. The dog who doesn’t want to bite or fight tries his hardest to make you go away. He may begin with subtle signs of discomfort that are often overlooked by many humans – tension in his body movements, a stiffly wagging tail, a freeze, and hard stare, and more. “Please,” he’s saying gently, “I don’t want you to be here.”
If you ignore those signals and continue to invade his comfort zone, his threats may intensify, with more tension, a hard stare, and a low growl. “I mean it,” he’s saying more firmly, “I want you to leave.”
If those are ignored, he may become more insistent, with an air snap, a bump of the nose (called a “muzzle punch”), or even open-mouth contact that closes gently on your hand or arm but doesn’t break skin. “Please,” he’s saying, “don’t make me bite you.”
If that doesn’t succeed in convincing you to leave, or to stop whatever you are doing that’s worrying him, the dog may feel compelled to bite hard enough to break skin in his efforts to protect himself, his territory, members of his social group, or other valuable resources.
Aggression is caused by stress. The stressor may be related to pain, fear, intrusion, threats to resources, and past association or anticipation of any of these things. (See “Understanding Aggression in Dogs,” WDJ October 2010.) An assertive dog acts aggressively because he’s stressed by the intrusion of another dog or human into his territory. A fearful dog bites because he’s stressed by the approach of a human. An injured dog lacerates the hand of his rescuer because he’s stressed by pain.
How to Respond to a Warning Growl
Lots of humans who understand that the above-described growling situations don’t indicate aggression may still overreact to a growl that clearly is a warning and a possible precursor to aggression. The problem here is a failure to understand that a warning growl is a really good thing; it means he is doing his best to not bite you. A warning growl says, “I am very uncomfortable here… please don’t make me bite.
The appropriate human response, in this case, is to quickly determine what is making the dog so uncomfortable, and remove the stressor so he doesn’t feel compelled to bite.
It’s usually not rocket science. If you are walking your dog and he sees someone coming toward you on the sidewalk and starts growling while looking at him or her, that person is scary to him; quickly do a U-turn or step off the sidewalk or take other immediate action to put some space between your dog and the person that is scary to him at that moment.
If you are trying to put a new coat on your dog, and hear a warning growl, stop what you are doing and give him some space. He’s just told you that a slower approach to the coat, with some counter-conditioning and desensitization, is in order.
Unfortunately, the all-too-common human response to growling is to take offense. Many owners immediately think, “How dare you growl at me!!” They grab the dog’s collar, smack him, and/or thrown him on the ground in a misguided “alpha roll.” In some cases, the dog might be intimidated into silence, but in many cases, the punished dog will be pushed into biting the very human he was trying hard not to bite.
It can seem intuitive to punish growling. Growling leads to biting, and dogs who bite people often are euthanized, so let’s save our dog’s life by punishing him at the first sign of inappropriate behavior. I can see how it seems to make sense, but when you have a deeper understanding of canine aggression, it’s easy to understand why it’s always the absolute wrong thing to do.
When you punish a growl or other early warning signs (such as a snarl or snap), you may succeed in suppressing the warning behavior, but this doesn’t remove the stress that caused the growl in the first place. Actually, you increase the stress, because now you, the dog’s owner, have become unpredictable and violent as well. If you succeed in suppressing the warning signs, you end up with a dog who bites without warning. He learns that it’s not safe to warn.
If a dog is frightened of men, he may growl when a man approaches. You, conscientious and responsible owner, are well aware of the stigma – and fate – of dogs who bite people, so you punish your dog with a yank on the leash and a loud “No! Bad dog!” Every time your dog growls at a man you do this – and quickly your dog’s fear of men is confirmed: men do make bad things happen! He likes men even less, but he learns not to growl at them to avoid making you turn mean.
In contrast, you think he’s learned that it’s not okay to be aggressive to men, because the next time one passes by, there’s no growl. “Phew,” you think to yourself. “We dodged that bullet!” Convinced that your dog now accepts men because he no longer growls at them, the next time one approaches and asks if he can pet your dog, you say yes. In fact, your dog has simply learned not to growl, but men still make him very uncomfortable. Your dog is now super-stressed, trying to control his growl as the man gets nearer and nearer, but when the scary man reaches for him he can’t hold back any longer – he lunges forward and snaps at the man’s hand. Fortunately, you’re able to restrain him with the leash so he doesn’t connect. You, the dog, and the man are all quite shaken by the incident.
It’s time to change your thinking.
A warning growl is a dog’s cry for help. It’s your dog’s way of telling you he can’t tolerate a situation – as if he’s saying, “I can’t handle this, please get me out of here!” Instead of making things worse, heed the warning. Help your dog out of the situation that’s causing him discomfort, and take behavior modification steps to help him become more comfortable with the stressor.
The next time your dog growls, don’t panic. Just determine what kind of growl it is, and respond appropriately. Now, go play some tug!
Author Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She and her husband Paul live in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where Pat offers dog-training classes and courses for trainers. Miller is also the author of many books on positive training. Her newest is Beware of the Dog: Positive Solutions for Aggressive Behavior in Dogs (Dogwise Publishing, 2016).
We’ve never published a dog gift guide before. But with the holidays coming up, we thought we would arm you with our best suggestions for Christmas and Hannukah gifts for dogs. After spending three days at Superzoo, a gigantic trade show for pet-industry retailers, we came home with so many brochures and fliers and dog product samples – and were so excited about some of the novel, useful, and fun products for dogs we saw there – that we had to share some of the best dog products we found with you. Some of these products will make great stocking stuffers for dogs – others your dog can unwrap under the Christmas tree. We hope you get some ideas for great gifts for dogs and all the dog owners you love!
Simply put, this is the nicest dog coat we’ve ever seen for warmth, fit, and comfort. Gold Paws Series makes its Stretch Fleece Coat from a buttery-soft, four-way stretch fabric that moves with your dog, no matter how active or exuberant he is. The fabric is light, adding just enough warmth without the possibility of overheating even an active dog. The design is well-tailored, so even though the coat has no bothersome zippers, Velcro, snaps, or straps, it stays on the dog without shifting, bunching, or rubbing. We threw a toy for our model for an hour, and didn’t have to adjust or straighten his coat even once.
The company is located in Oregon, and all of its products are sewn in the U.S., with fabric milled just for Gold Paw Series in a bluesign-certified mill (which ensures the mill is audited for energy, water, and chemical usage to help achieve long-term environmental improvement). That’s going the extra mile to do the job the right way.
This coat comes in 15 sizes, ranging from size 2 (for dogs who measure four inches or less from collar to tail) to 30 (for dogs who measure 29 inches or longer). If your dog is an odd size, for an extra $10, the company will make the coat to custom dimensions. The coats slip over the dog’s head, and easily stretch to accommodate maneuvering even the longest limbs through the arm holes. It’s available in 14 solid colors and four patterns (one leopard, three plaid).
Dogs in the coldest climates may benefit from the Duluth double Fleece, essentially a two-layer, reversible version of the same Stretch Fleece coat. The Portland Pullover is the same design with a waterproof and dirt-repellent shell.
Look on the company website for a retailer that carries these coats; once you feel the fabric, you’ll be a buyer.
A $30 dog bowl? Have we lost our minds? Nope! We found the first travel dog bowl we don’t ever want to live without.
It’s actually three pieces that fit together, allowing you to bring along a bowl of water, as well as a serving of your dog’s food, and keep them separate and secure. When you arrive to your destination, you pull apart the pieces so that the food and water can be served in their respective sections. And the water section of the bowl has a spill-resistant design, with a wide rim that keeps water from sloshing out (or being lapped out by a sloppy drinker). But wait, there’s more!
Removed and turned upside down, the lid serves as an extra bowl with an attached “saucer.” Pour a little water in the “saucer,” you now have an ant-proof dog food bowl.
If you fill the water bowl and freeze it, you can either allow it to melt during the day, keeping the water fresh and cold, or use it to keep your dog’s raw diet (stored in the food section of the bowl) fresh and cold for a feeding later in the day. Wow!
The bowl is made silicone, a, FDA-approved food-grade, baby-safe alternative to BPA-containing plastics. Plus, , silicone is freezer-, microwave-, and dishwasher-safe!
The Yummy Travel Bowl comes in two sizes; both are three inches deep but the smaller size is six inches wide and the medium is 7 1/2 inches wide. (The medium size is $10 more.) Both sizes are available in five attractive jewel-tone colors. We like to mix and match them.
We can no longer imagine spending a day in the car (or a night in a hotel) with our dog without one or two Yummy Travel Bowls along for the ride!
We’ve long been fans of the Planet Dog Orbee -Tuff Sol ball – or rather, we should say, the past two generations of our dogs have been fans. Planet Dog got the “mouth feel” of this dog ball just right to suit all the dogs we know: not so hard that the dog can’t squish them as they return from a retrieve, but not so soft that they get chewed and ground between the dog’s molars, either. That makes for a very short-lived toy!
But the company has outdone itself with its new Squeak ball. At three inches in diameter, it’s large enough for most dogs to hold and fetch comfortably, but also small enough that all but the tiniest dogs can get chomp down hard enough to make it loudly SQUEAK! Our dog Otto, a serious squeakaholic, just about went off the deep end in squeaking bliss with this ball.
The Squeak ball comes in just two colors, blue and orange. Like all Orbee-Tuff balls, Squeak is made in the U.S., non-toxic, durable, bouncy, chewy, buoyant, and always 100% guaranteed. But this is the only one that squeaks!!
Also, it’s not just the fact that the ball squeaks that makes it special, it’s how Planet Dog made the ball squeak that’s extra cool. A patent-pending squeaker is built right into the ball; it’s not a separate piece that can be “chewed out of” the ball.
At a suggested retail price of $15, this is a ball that you spend the time searching for when it goes astray in an errant throw. But you can feel good about spending your hard-earned cash on Planet Dog goods. The company gives two percent of every sale to the Planet Dog Foundation; more than $1 million has been given in the past decade to support the Foundation’s mission : promoting and supporting assistance dog organizations.
Dogs who prefer a harder, less squishy ball might prefer the Orbee-Tuff Diamond Plate ball or the original Orbee ball – the one with the raised facsimile of the continents. But for dogs who like to chomp a bit, we’d recommend filling their stockings with Sol or Squeak balls for a raucously happy New Year (and maybe some earplugs for their humans!)
Some of you don’t approve of giving your dog rawhide to chew, and that’s fine. The vast majority of rawhide chews on the market are horrible, anyway. They are generally either made of tiny scraps of rawhide glued together with dog-knows-what, or made from foreign-sourced hides that have been soaked in dog-knows-what chemicals in an effort to knock down the bacterial count. Your dog is better off without this sort of chew!
But what if we told you that there is a domestic manufacturer of rawhide chews, a company that uses fresh, refrigerated hides and nothing stronger than peroxide to clean and preserve them? And what if we told you that this company offers one product in particular that is made from a single sheet of rawhide – one large square sheet that is rolled up, without any little pieces of scrap hiding inside?
That’s the holy grail of rawhide chews, because a dog has to chew and chew to remove even tiny pieces of hide. True, you don’t want a dog eating a lot of it in any one session. But because it’s impossible to swallow large pieces, and it takes so much work to remove tiny pieces – and given the quality of the materials and manufacture – we feel confident that this is the safest rawhide chew out there.
We don’t recommend giving dogs rawhide as a regular thing throughout their lifetimes. But when your dog is seriously teething, from about six months through his young adulthood, there truly is nothing more satisfying to chew. For more information on rawhides, see “Finding the Right Rawhide Chew,” (WDJ, May 2009).
As with all things that you give a dog to chew, you need to limit his time with the Retriever Rolls, and supervise, supervise, supervise. Take the roll away and dispose of it when it gets anywhere close to small enough to be swallowed. With Woody here, that’s about three or four inches long; a small dog could maybe be trusted with it down to one or two inches.
We’ve found the Rolls in quality independent pet supply stores; there is a list of retailers on the Wholesome Hide website. We’ve also ordered from an online retailer who sells 10 rolls for $100. That should get Woody through the rest of his adolescence!
West Paw Design is another highly reputable pet company with a penchant for producing creative toys and other products for pets. But when we saw their line of stuffed Holiday Toys, we were initially less than impressed; the plush reindeer, bones, pine trees, stars, and bears seemed like your average stuffed toys – something we’d be picking up the pieces of in 15 minutes or so after Woody started playing with them.
But not only did the toys survive session after session of rough play (including tug of war between Woody and a puppy), after a trip through the washing machine, they looked nearly good as new! The Holiday Toys are tougher than they looked. Well, that’s what we would have expected from West Paw: good materials and good workmanship, and always handcrafted in Montana, U.S. of A.
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Most of the Holiday Toys come in two sizes, small and large, and there are a dozen different designs to choose from. West Paw also offers a number of non-holiday-themed stuffed toys to choose from, including cute flamingos, giraffes, and other animals in their “Floppy Dog Toys” line.
If you are looking for a more significant gift than stocking stuffers, don’t overlook West Paw Design’s wide variety of dog beds. Their luxurious yet durable beds come in crate friendly sizes. West Paw Design’s Heyday Bed Collection features low-profile, pillowy bolsters and double-stuff bases – not the thinly stuffed sort of beds that the giant chain stores tend to carry. These beds are truly comfortable, attractive, durable, machine-washable, and dryer safe.
It’s easy to forget just how miserable life in our human society can be for some dogs, especially if your time is spent almost exclusively traveling in a tightly scheduled, insular circle of home, work (or school), exercising, shopping, eating, and sleeping at home again. Most of us see our beloved dogs snuggled in their beds (or ours), romping in our yards or local parks or play groups, on walks along the most picturesque paths we can find, and then back at home, on the couch or by the fireplace. It’s easy to forget about all the homeless dogs, the ones who have homes but who are locked out of them in all weather, and those who are abused out of anyone’s sight.
I’ve been obsessing about this because for the past week, I have been preoccupied with two puppies with very different lives.
The first is a three- to four-month-old shepherd-mix whom I spotted in my local shelter’s kennels. She had been brought into the shelter by a good Samaritan who had seen her wandering by the side of the road on the outskirts of my town. She had gone unclaimed in the shelter for more than two weeks; I snatched her up the day she was made available for adoption – not because I need another dog; after spending an hour with her in the “get acquainted room” at the shelter, I thought she’d make a terrific pet for my seven-year-old niece, Ava, who has been wanting her “own” dog for the past two years.
I brought the pup home to stay with me for a couple of weeks so I could get her started on crate-training, house-training, and basic manners. Within days she was going potty outside on cue, sleeping in the crate without protest, and had learned sit, down, and a reasonably reliable recall for a pup of her age!
She and Ava hit it off right away. She’s since started life in her new home, where she’s never going to be hurt, scared, or locked outside. “Rosie,” as Ava named her, is spending her day romping at the heels of my niece, curled on her lap on the sofa, or snoozing in a deep, soft bed next to Ava’s bed. She’ll have daily visits from a dog walker for at least a few months, and will be enrolled in a puppy training class in a few more weeks. She’s going to have a great life, full of love and attention.
The second puppy is also female, three to four months old, and a ward of my local shelter who was saved by a good Samaritan. But this puppy, a pit bull-mix, came to the attention of my local animal control officers in the form of a 911 call reporting that someone had beaten and burned a puppy, and it was still alive and suffering. The responding officer rushed her to a 24-hour vet hospital, where she’s been fighting for her life ever since.
I’ve been following the daily reports of her condition, as well as helping the shelter staff in any way I can, writing press releases and Facebook posts asking people to please help police and animal control officers find out who so cruelly tortured this sweet puppy. I’ve donated money to help pay for her care, and will add another donation to a reward fund if her attacker isn’t found soon.
I wish all puppies had safe, secure, loving homes. If your dog or puppy does, please consider giving a dollar or two to your local animal shelter, to benefit the ones who have not been so fortunate.
Dogs can teach us lots of things. In watching dogs, I learn about enjoying the moment and finding your bliss. In training dogs, I learn about patience, consistency, and the importance of meeting dogs at their level. In being responsible for dogs, I sometimes learn more than I want to know about assorted health challenges – such as retained testicles and, most recently, low thyroid.
Earlier this year, my dog, Saber, unexpectedly gained eight pounds. He has the heavily muscled build of a working Golden Retriever, so it wasn’t glaringly obvious, but there was definitely less “dip” in his waist.
I confirmed the weight gain while consulting with our vet about his then pending re-neuter surgery to extract the undescended testicle not found when neutered with his previous owners. My vet warned that, with the reduction of testosterone, he’d be prone to weight gain. I reduced his daily intake by half – to just one cup of high-quality kibble per day. We are avid walkers, and he gets regular off-leash exercise, so I was certain the weight would melt away.
It didn’t.
As the weeks passed, I realized he wasn’t growing coat at the shaved surgical site, and the area experienced a series of pigment changes. He seemed a bit less energetic, but not alarmingly so, and I initially attributed that to his newfound maturity as a four-year-old dog. His coat, overall, had taken on a dull appearance, and he seemed to lack what little undercoat he’d ever had. He also developed a hotspot on the underside of his tail. We went back to the vet.
I suspected a thyroid issue. My vet agreed, and outsourced a comprehensive thyroid panel to the Diagnostic Center for Population & Animal Health at Michigan State University. Ten days later, our suspicion was confirmed: autoimmune thyroiditis.
Dog Thyroids 101
The thyroid is a small, butterfly-shaped gland in the neck, in front of the trachea. It’s part of the endocrine system, and is responsible for producing two main hormones, T3 (tri-iodothyronine) and T4 (thyroxine), that regulate metabolism. We often associate metabolism with how quickly bodies burn calories in relation to weight gain or weight loss, but the body’s metabolism affects a variety of vital functions such as breathing, heart rate, body temperature, central and peripheral nervous systems, muscle strength, cholesterol levels, and more.
Hypothyroidism (underactive or low thyroid) is a common disorder in dogs. A variety of breeds are known to be genetically predisposed, including the Labrador Retriever, Golden Retriever, Dachshund, Boxer, Doberman, and Cocker Spaniel. (It’s normal for sighthounds such as the Greyhound to have relatively low thyroid levels as a result of their unique physiology; these levels are not a sign of pathology in these breeds.)
Inbreeding of close relatives has predisposed individuals to many health issues including autoimmune thyroiditis. According to Sally Lane, DVM, who specializes in integrative and complementary care in Southern California, genetically inherited autoimmune dysfunction of the thyroid gland (autoimmune thyroiditis) is thought to be responsible for the majority of cases – up to 80 percent.
We don’t yet fully understand what triggers the dysfunction, but the veterinary community is exploring several ideas. One theory is that widespread nutrient depletion in the soil impacts the food chain, creating foods that are lower in iodine or selenium, minerals necessary to proper thyroid function.
Another theory is that individuals with low thyroid may have some component of adrenal depletion due to excessive cortisol release from stressors to the system and metabolic demands, which can disrupt thyroid function. Over-vaccination, highly processed foods, widespread use of antibiotics, and exposure to anesthesia all strain the body, which could potentially push a genetically predisposed individual over the edge into clinical hypothyroidism.
Physical damage to the thyroid, from strong pullers straining on leash, or at the hands of owners issuing collar corrections on training collars, is another theory being considered as a cause of hypothyroidism.
Common Clinical Symptoms of Hypothyroidism in Dogs
Saber presented with a laundry list of the most common clinical symptoms: weight gain; dry, flaky skin; recurring hot spots; and lack of energy. Other possible symptoms include cold intolerance, muscle weakness, especially in the rear, fertility issues, and even behavior changes, such as the sudden onset of anxiety or aggression.
(Note: The latter is why good trainers always recommend a full medical workup when clients report sudden behavior changes. All the behavior modification in the world can’t overcome an issue with a medical component!)
If left untreated, dogs with low thyroid can experience seizures, liver and kidney problems, and reproductive issues – not to mention the health and quality of life issues that accompany prolonged skin conditions and obesity.
The Western Approach to Hypothyroidism
In cases of full-blown autoimmune thyroiditis, the thyroid has been damaged by the body’s own abnormal antibodies. As a result, it is no longer able to produce sufficient amounts of hormones to support the body. In these cases, treatment typically involves replacing the lacking hormone, traditionally with a synthetic thyroid medication such as levothyroxine, commonly sold under the brand name Soloxine, or more recently, ThyroKare.
The synthetic hormone is usually given twice per day, ideally at 12-hour intervals. Some vets feel absorption is improved when given away from meals. Other patients report just as much improvement when the medication is given at mealtimes. Blood levels must be re-checked after starting or adjusting medication dosage, as well as annually to ensure hormone levels remain in a healthy range.
Holistic Treatments for Canine Hypothyroidism
Patients wanting a more natural approach to hormone replacement can consider Nature-Throid, a natural thyroid hormone designed to boost the T3 and T4 levels. Dr. Lane says Nature-Throid is more drug-like in that it’s very targeted in its purpose – to help boost lagging thyroid values – but unlike synthetic levothyroxine, it’s a natural product made from dried pig thyroid. Both the synthetic and natural replacement hormones are dosed similarly, and blood values must be closely monitored to ensure proper dosage. According to Dr. Lane, it sometimes takes a bit more fine-tuning to determine the right dosage of a natural replacement hormone as compared to the synthetic hormone.
With either product, Dr. Lane encourages owners to discuss the benefits of an adaptogenic herb such as ashwagandha, which is known for its immune-modulating effects, with their dog’s treatment team. Adaptogens help the body adapt to stress, and exert a normalizing effect on bodily processes. Products such as Vet Ashwagandha by Ayush Herbs or Withania Complex by Standard Process can help support thyroid function, but do not directly treat hypothyroidism.
The good news is, with either the natural or synthetic replacement hormone, the dog is likely to experience swift relief from many symptoms – especially the weight gain and lethargy. The bad news? Once a thyroid replacement product is started, it’s likely the patient will need it for life, because once the replacement hormones are on board, the thyroid says, “Oh, we have enough of these hormones, I don’t have to work harder to make more.” Dr. Lane says it’s entirely safe to switch from a synthetic product like ThyroKare to a natural product like Nature-Throid while monitoring blood levels to ensure proper dosing.
Integrative Thyroid Support for Dogs
Ideally, potential thyroid issues are recognized early, when they can likely be reversed via supportive care (see “Catching Problems Before they Start,” below). Once the gland has become so damaged that replacement therapy is considered the best option, there are several alternative modalities also thought to be beneficial. They include:
Dog Diet and Nutrition
Feeding minimally processed, whole foods is always a wise choice to help improve overall nutrient absorption and reduce strain on the organs from filtering impurities. However, with any known medical condition, it’s wise to learn about possible disease-specific considerations in order to make educated food choices.
For example, many green, leafy vegetables such as broccoli, kale or bok choy, contain goitrogenic substances that disrupt the production of thyroid hormones by inhibiting iodine uptake. Dr. Lane says green leafy vegetables are important in the diet, as they help with detoxification, metabolic function, and cancer prevention, but they should be steamed to reduce the iodine-blocking effect, or fed raw in moderation. Some whole foods thought to support thyroid function include foods high in omega-3 fats such as sardines, salmon, eggs, summer squash, and sweet red peppers.
Certain supplements can be beneficial, such as milk thistle to support liver detoxification, fish oils to support skin and coat health, and biotin to promote coat growth in dogs experiencing thyroid-induced alopecia.
Chiropractic Help for Dogs
Chiropractic puts the body in a better position to support overall wellness. Dr. Lane says chiropractic adjustments can also be helpful in cases of hypothyroidism where it’s possible trauma to the neck, potentially via a collar, may have contributed to thyroid dysfunction.
Traditional Chinese Medicine and Acupuncture for Dogs
TCM serves to support and strengthen the body as a whole, which allows the body to more effectively combat the effects of symptoms commonly associated with hypothyroidism, and return to balance.
Understanding Alternative Therapies for Canine Hypothyroidism
Many of these modalities draw on some version of the body’s energy. In TCM, that energy is called “qi.” Practitioners of homeopathy often refer to it as the “vital force.” It can be a challenging concept for those raised on conventional veterinary medicine, but Wendy Jensen, DVM, a homeopathic practitioner from Bow, New Hampshire, and author of The Practical Handbook of Veterinary Homeopathy, explains it this way:
“Think about the last time you were getting a cold. You probably knew something was wrong before you were stuck in bed. But if you had gone to the doctor at that point, nothing would’ve shown up – there’d be nothing on your blood work, and you didn’t have a fever. That’s the energetic level; it hasn’t changed anything in your body yet, but your energy has been impacted. That’s the energy where illness starts, and that’s the level we treat,” Dr. Jensen says.
In holistic medicine, practitioners are more concerned with what they’re seeing in the animal in front of them, rather than in the patient’s diagnostic label.
“You note the Western component, but you don’t treat with specific herbs based on that Western diagnosis,” Dr. Lane says. “You’re looking at lots of things with the goal of supporting the body. In Traditional Chinese Medicine, we might look at the tongue and the pulse, and if what we’re seeing there corresponds with dry skin, we’d pick an herbal therapy to enhance circulation.”
Dr. Jensen takes a similar approach as a homeopathy practitioner. It’s not about picking the homeopathic remedy that is designed to treat hypothyroidism; its about looking at all aspects of the individual – from physical issues, to emotional and behavioral issues – and identifying which remedy best supports those symptoms. Whereas as a vet of traditional Western medicine is likely to look at an ear infection and dose antibiotic ointment designed to treat the infected ear, Jensen will dig deeper, often inquiring about personality changes or even if there was difficulty housetraining the dog. This all serves as important information to help detect – and correct – imbalance. “I’ve never known my patients as well as I do now,” she says.
As the unique imbalances are addressed, the body is put into a better position to heal itself to the best of its ability, which leads to an overall improvement in health.
Individual Dogs are Unique
With so much information available at our fingertips, it can be tempting to scour the Internet in search of a magic bullet. A quick Google search offers a well-stocked list of proprietary tonics and tablets, many advertised as “natural” or “holistic.” Owners should always discuss new therapies with a member of their dog’s healthcare team, as even seemingly harmless vitamin supplements can be contraindicated in some cases. Proper holistic care relies heavily on looking at the patient as an individual.
Thyroid Treatment Experiences Among Dogs Vary
On the recommendation of my primary vet (a member of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association whom I would describe as being “largely conventional, but alternative-savvy”), we started Saber on a combination of synthetic thyroid replacement (ThyroKare 0.4 mg) and a Standard Process thyroid supplement.
His T4 levels were checked in 30 days, where the 0.4 mg dose was determined to be too high, as evidenced by blood work (the desired range is 0.8-3.5; he tested at 5.8!) and some telltale clinical symptoms of his hormones being thrown into high gear, such as a voracious appetite and mild panting, even at night and early in the morning. The dose was lowered to 0.2 mg and, when re-tested again, his T4 measured at a comfortable 2.2. This is why regular monitoring is important.
Saber’s energy level increased, and he lost the excess weight within a very short time of starting this protocol. But he was still left with itchy, flaking skin, re-occurring hotspots, and intermittently “gunky” ears.
He also started losing massive amounts of coat; he went from a sparsely coated Golden I could brush and hardly pick up any coat, to a dog I’d brush twice per day and get multiple brushfuls each time! My vet assured me the hair loss would cease as the medication worked to normalize the recent roller coaster of hormone levels, and it did.
However, as the other symptoms remained, I switched him to a raw diet and decided to work with a Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) practitioner. We are still early in this course of treatment, but so far, she has recommended a couple of minor dietary changes specific to Saber, not as a hypothyroid dog, but based on how he presents as an individual. She also started him on a homeopathic thyroid support product (Professional Formula’s Thyroid Liquescence), has counseled us on supplements both for whole-body support and for specific needs, and has performed two acupuncture treatments.
So far, he’s still itchy and very prone to hot spots. With this news, our TCM practitioner is re-visiting Saber’s intake notes to see if she feels a specific Chinese herbal remedy would be beneficial.
Integrated Approach to Canine Hypothyroidism
While some people have an overall approach they are steadfastly most comfortable with, Dr. Lane believes treating hypothyroidism doesn’t have to be about choosing between “conventional” or “alternative” options.
“It’s important to take an integrated approach,” she says. Whether or not it’s determined the patient needs hormone replacement therapy (a more conventional veterinary medical treatment, even when using a natural hormone replacement product), an integrated approach – designed to support the whole dog, not just the thyroid – can help produce better patient outcomes.
In contrast, some alternative practitioners, such as Dr. Jensen, do feel their modalities work much better when not paired with more traditional approaches to medical care. They believe traditional approaches interfere with the “vital force’s” attempt to restore balance with the help of alternative therapies.
In the end, we believe what’s most important is for dog owners to be willing to educate themselves about available options, consider their resources (both in terms of access to qualified alternative practitioners, and financial resources), and choose a course of treatment, or combination of treatment options, with which they are most comfortable.
Catch Your Dog’s Thyroid Problems Before They Start?
Since it’s rare to successfully wean dogs off of thyroid replacement products (synthetic or natural) once a dog has a well-established hypothyroid condition, one idea is for owners of breeds genetically predisposed to thyroid issues to proactively look for changes in thyroid numbers. Subtle changes in blood work will precede clinical signs. According to Hemopet, classical clinical signs will appear only after more than 70 percent of the thyroid gland is damaged.
This requires a more complex thyroid panel, traditionally offered by Hemopet or Michigan State University, but when findings reveal subtle changes, or show a dog as being in the “low normal” range, Sally Lane, DVM, who specializes in integrative and complementary medicine, says that’s the perfect time to start supportive treatment.
“The conventional approach might be to not do anything other than make a note to re-check the numbers in 6-12 months, but, from a holistic medicine perspective, we’re trying to give the thyroid a little boost of support and see if that helps the individual,” Dr. Lane says. Additionally, Wendy Jensen, DVM, a homeopath from Bow, New Hampshire, notes dogs who develop hypothyroidism are more likely to eventually develop megaesophagus and laryngeal paralysis, making it even more important to prevent full-blown thyroid disease whenever possible.
When caught early, Dr. Lane typically recommends supportive treatment such as a whole-food glandular product given in combination with a high-quality vitamin and mineral supplement matched to the dog’s diet. Glandulars are supplements made from organs and tissues of mammals, and are based on the idea that an extract of a specific organ can strengthen the organ. Dr. Lane often recommends T-150 by Xymogen, or one of the Standard Process thyroid products such as Canine Thyroid Support.
Kelp is often touted as a beneficial supplement for dogs with hypothyroid, due to its high iodine content. In the early stages of thyroid dysfunction, Dr. Lane says a high-quality kelp product can be beneficial. However, dogs who are being treated with some form of thyroid replacement (synthetic or natural) should not be given additional iodine or iodine-rich seaweed supplements, such as kelp, as it can create iodine excess and interfere with medication. A commercially prepared food, or high-quality vitamin and mineral supplement for dogs fed home-prepared diets, will offer sufficient and safe amounts of iodine to help support proper thyroid function without compromising medication.
“Once the dogs are already hypothyroid, adding kelp or something rich in iodine can cause this cascade effect where the body reacts by destroying the thyroid gland even more,” Dr. Lane says. “But when it’s a case where we’re looking at a low-normal and we want something to boost the system, kelp can support the body and, in certain individuals, it may help prevent the dog from developing hypothyroidism.”
A Shift in Medical Thinking
Similarly, Dr. Jensen encourages dog owners to develop a willingness to look at health challenges as potential puzzle pieces to a bigger picture, not just as stand-alone incidents. For example, in a young dog with reoccurring ear infections or other skin issues, it’s important to consider why these issues are developing.
“Ears don’t just get infected,” she says. “It comes from the inside out; the whole dog is involved in creating that gunky ear. The cells that affect that ear are coming from somewhere else inside the body – the whole dog is producing the gunky ear. When you can treat the whole body versus just making the symptoms go away, the dog will have a much healthier life.”
In many cases, the willingness to think proactively and explore what is creating the susceptibility to ear infections or other reoccurring, seemingly minor issues – rather than simply suppress the symptoms – can reduce the likelihood the dog will experience thyroid or other issues later in life, Dr. Jensen says.
Another sign to watch for, she adds, is the cessation of symptoms – the dog who used to get ear infections, but hasn’t had one in a long time, or the dog who used to battle digestive issues, but now has a calm GI tract. This seems like it would be a good thing, but, for Dr. Jensen, it’s a red flag that an underlying disease is getting deeper and attacking the organs and glands. For her, it can be a clear warning sign of thyroid problems.
Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Southern California.
In a July 2015 blog post, Peter Dobias, DVM, notes the high rate of thyroid disease among large breeds of dogs who often pull strongly when on-leash. “It seems obvious that the collar actually pushes on the throat exactly in the area of the thyroid gland,” he says. He postulates that the trauma created by the pulling can inflame the thyroid, triggering an aggressive immune response when the body tries to remove the inflamed thyroid cells.
In a January 2013 issue of Dr. Jean Dodds’ Pet Health Resource Blog, she addressed the issue via a reader-submitted question about collars and thyroid health. She said, based on the location at the front of the neck, the thyroid gland and neighboring salivary glands “can be easily injured by trauma and sudden pressure forces, like could occur from the slip ring and chain of a metal collar, and a metal prong or hard braided leather collar,” recommending harnesses or head halters for strong-pulling dogs.
Additionally, in 2011, Anders Hallgren studied the connection between problem behavior and back problems in dogs. In looking at 400 dogs, Hallgren found dogs who were strong pullers, or who were exposed to collar corrections, were most likely to display cervical injuries. In discussing the findings in his book Back Problems in Dogs: Underlying Causes for Behavior Problems, Hallgren notes, “The soft tissue at the front of the throat could also be injured, depending on how you handle the leash.”
Pulling on leash is problematic for many reasons. It’s likely uncomfortable for the dog (even when the desired forward motion trumps the discomfort); it’s uncomfortable for the human handling the dog; and it skews natural dog body language, potentially contributing to conflicts between dogs.
We’d say the additional potential for contributing to the development of thyroid disease, particularly in breeds known to be genetically predisposed, makes using a well-fitted front-clip harness a wise choice.
(Note:WDJ is working on a review of the 10 leading front-clip harnesses on the market; it will appear in an upcoming issue.)
We want our dogs to live forever, but they don’t remain puppies for long. By the time they reach middle age, most dogs start to slow down because of arthritis, illness, injuries, or the aging process. Being overweight makes all of these problems likely to occur at a younger age.
Exercise is essential for dogs of all ages. It helps maintain muscle tone, a healthy weight, joint flexibility, good circulation, and overall health and happiness – but when movement causes pain, it’s only natural to slow down or stay still. That creates a vicious cycle in which inactivity contributes to pain, pain reinforces inactivity, and the dog’s health deteriorates.
How can you safely help your sedentary older dog resume an active lifestyle? Here are some exercise do’s and don’ts.
DO:
1. Go to the vet.
Before starting an exercise plan, take your best friend to your veterinarian, who can check his weight, overall condition, and range of motion. (When you schedule the appointment, be sure to let the staff know that you want an in-depth wellness examination, not a cursory appointment.) Your vet can then help you plan an effective exercise strategy.
2. Consider physical therapy.
Consider seeing a Certified Canine Rehabilitation Therapist (CCRT), the veterinary version of physical therapists for humans. CCRTs design exercise programs for individual dogs to help them recover from injury and safely improve their strength, balance, and range of motion.
Help your overweight dog lose weight, as that’s one of the best things you can do to help an older dog remain mobile. It also helps to feed a diet that doesn’t contribute to inflammation.
Note: An article on “Weight Loss for Older Dogs” will appear in the January 2017 issue.
4. Start exercising your dog little by little.
Help your dog start exercising gradually, starting with short, low-impact walks on smooth or flat surfaces. Watch for symptoms like limping, wanting to rest, or other signs of discomfort, and let your dog take breaks as needed. When starting an exercise program, soreness the next day indicates that you did too much. Exercise can be increased gradually as long as it doesn’t make the dog feel worse.
5. Go swimming!
If she enjoys the water, take your dog swimming, as swimming puts less pressure on sore joints than walking or running. Some veterinary clinics have therapeutic swimming pools or underwater treadmills that help arthritic dogs exercise without stressing their joints.
6. Play games!
Play games that your dog enjoys to keep him active and interested, such as hide and seek. Keep the game short (10 minutes or less) and simple.
“I have to put in a plug for nose work and sniffing games,” says WDJ contributor Mary Straus, “because they tire dogs out without strenuous activity. We have dogs competing in nose work at very advanced ages who are no longer able to participate in other activities.” For more information about K9 Nose Work, see “Sniff This – You’ll Feel Better,” (WDJ, April 2013) and the National Association of Canine Scent Work.
7. Try supplements for dogs.
Experiment with nutritional supplements (“Identifying Arthritis in Dogs,” WDJ October 2016), medicinal herbs (“Herbal Remedies for Arthritis Pain,” November 2016), essential oils (“Therapy That Smells Great,” this issue), and other remedies that may increase your dog’s range of motion and activity level.
8. Give your dog a massage.
Hire a canine massage therapist or learn basic massage techniques and use them to improve your dog’s flexibility, circulation, and muscle tone. Massage helps relieve stiffness and joint discomfort, and speeds recovery from accidents and injuries. As a bonus, massage can deepen the bond between pets and people. For guidelines, search for books on canine massage at DogWise.com or visit petmassage.com or dogmassage.com.
DON’T:
1. Strain your dog.
Don’t strain your arthritic dog’s joints by playing catching games, spinning, running on sand or other soft surfaces, running on streets and other hard surfaces, racing up and down stairs, or expecting your older dog to jump onto or off of furniture, car seats, or other heights, even if she shows no signs of pain or discomfort. Keep movements slow and steady, and provide assistance or a support ramp or pet steps as needed.
2. Be inconsistent with your dog’s exercise.
Don’t be a weekend warrior. Just like their human companions, dogs who exercise infrequently are more likely to injure themselves than those who do a smaller amount every day. A few minutes of daily or twice-daily exercise will produce greater benefits than longer sessions once or twice a week.
Let your dog show you what her comfortable pace is, and respect that. “For the last few years of my Shar-Pei Piglet’s life,” Straus says, “I let her choose where, how far, and how fast we walked. She knew her limits and never went farther than she could handle, though she would stop and rest in a shady spot for a while when she needed to before continuing on. Despite severe arthritis in all four limbs, she was still mobile when she passed away at age 17.”
3. Be too rough with your dog.
Avoid roughhousing games, even if your dog loves them. Too-vigorous activity can damage arthritic joints, surrounding muscles, and supporting ligaments. This includes racing around with other dogs and crashing into each other.
4. Exercise your dog without a warm-up.
Don’t ask your dog to get up from a prone position and immediately take off with you as you run or jog. Warm-ups are crucial. Start with five to 10 minutes of slow, gentle movement, such as a slow-paced walk. If your dog is comfortable moving faster, increase the pace for another five, 10, or 15 minutes, depending on your dog’s condition and ability.
If he enjoys games like running from one person to another when called, or searching for someone who’s hiding, take time to play. Then, before going home or back into the house, spend five to 10 minutes cooling down with a slow-paced gentle walk.
5. Let your dog gain weight.
Don’t let your dog gain weight, especially if he isn’t as active as he used to be. Reduce food portions as needed, and pass over high-fat or high-carbohydrate diets in favor of foods with high protein levels, which help maintain lean muscle mass.
Keeping your older dog mobile depends on the right exercise as well as the right diet, and learning what works is worth the time and effort involved. Best of all, helping your dog feel better and remain active is a project you can both enjoy.
CJ Puotinen is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books.
A warning growl is a dog's cry for help. It's your dog's way of telling you he can't tolerate a situation - as if he's saying, "I can't handle this, please get me out of here!" Instead of making things worse, heed the warning. Help your dog out of the situation that's causing him discomfort, and take behavior modification steps to help him become more comfortable with the stressor.
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In my family, thanksgiving was always the big annual holiday. We always had the usual family, friends, and food, but also lots of extended family – which includes dogs – and lots of dog-walks in the day and music at night.
Happily, my sisters and I have carried on the tradition. My sister Susan has driven over from Colorado – no small feat – and dinner itself is being hosted by our other sister Pamela, who moved with her husband and their dogs to my town about a year and a half ago when her husband retired.
Sue is a little sad; she’s brought her (adult) daughter’s little long-haired Chihuahua, Riot, who is heading to a new home. Her daughter, like so many young adults, adopted the dog in her last year in college, but hasn’t found the time to properly care for and exercise the cute little dog while working to support herself “in the real world.” The inevitable house-training and problem barking ensued, and my niece actually had to move twice because her roommates were unhappy with the dog. She started leaving the dog more and more with my sister, who likes dogs but does not actually want to own one. My sister has felt sorry for Riot, but also resentful of being “stuck” with her so much, and pressed her daughter to rehome Riot, for Riot’s sake.
The last time my sister visited here, we had breakfast with a friend of mine, who told Sue she knew someone who was looking for just the right little dog to join her family. Many months later, after innumerable texts, photos, and yesterday, an in-person interview, Riot is going to live in a new home here in my town, with a super nice older couple who live on a large piece of property where they farm oranges with their extended family. After all the time she’s spent with Riot, my sister is sad to see the dog leave, but she’s glad the cute little dog will have a more consistent, solid family with people who are always home and who LOVE dogs.
No one could love dogs more than my other sister, Pam. She and her husband have three: Daisy, a little rescue Jack Russell Terrier-mix; Dinah, one of my former fosters, a Chihuahua/Dachshund-mix; and Bo, a scruffy Schnauzer-mix. Last year, writing a blog post, I mentioned that Bo was about 10 years old. Some months ago, Bo’s original owner came to my sister’s house for dinner and to visit the dog, whom she left with my sister about four or five years ago, when her life was in turmoil. Pam was telling her about a series of small strokes that Bo had suffered; each one leaves him a little less sharp, but he’s still eating well, pottying outside appropriately, and going for (slow) walks with the “pack” each day. Pam said, “He’s still doing good for a 10-year-old dog!” The former owner said, “Pam, he’s 16!” She recounted the math: She got the dog as a puppy for her son’s 10th birthday, and that son is 26 now… Well, Bo is getting a lot more respect now.
Out of respect to Pam’s much-more-senior-than-we-knew-dog, my own dogs (9-year-old Otto and 1-year-old Woody) and my guest dogs who will be in town will spend the actual Thanksgiving dinner-time at my house, or my office/house. My son is coming with his hound, Cole, and Woody will be overjoyed to have the chance to play fast and rough with his . . . cousin? uncle? I won’t try to describe that dog relationship in human terms; I’m no good at genealogy, ha ha.
Also hanging out at my house, but not for much longer, is Rosie, the five-month-old presumed Shepherd-mix, whom I’ve been working with daily for a few weeks, getting her ready for life with my sister-in-law and her 7-year-old daughter, Ava. Rosie is going to be Ava’s first “own” dog, and I’m going to have to hand it to myself on making a great match.
I spotted Rosie in my local shelter’s kennels, and snapped her up the day she became available for adoption. She’s super friendly, happy to meet any dog or person with a wag, confident without being over-bold, and doesn’t seem to have any odd fears or phobias. She’s been in the accelerated class and learning fast what she may and may not chew on, and where she may and may not potty, and getting straight A’s. She walks more nicely on a leash than my dogs – perhaps because I’ve been working her more on the skill than I do with my dogs, hmmmm. She actually looks like a nice little obedience dog, walking smartly at my side looking up at me for clues as to when to stop and plop fast down into a sit. She spent six days with Ava and her mom when I was traveling for a conference, and bonded quickly with them. When I picked her up again when I got back, for more training, Ava’s mom texted me and said how much they missed her, immediately. They are taking her home for good the day after Thanksgiving, and I know she’s going to help that family feel a little more joyful, a little fuller, in the absence of my brother and his dog (both of who passed two years ago).
A rescue Boxer, also named Rosie, is one of our guest dogs; she belongs to my husband’s brother and his wife, who will join us for a few days of feasting and hiking with dogs. During one of last Thanksgiving’s hikes, my sister-in-law took a great photo of their Rosie and my Otto, and submitted it to a Boxer rescue group for their annual fundraising calendar. Otto and Rosie are the September 2017 dogs! http://www.zazzle.com/beautiful_boxers_2017_calendar-158195861511460764
I’m hoping for more great photos from this year’s hikes.
Joining us at the table on Thanksgiving day will be my friend Leonora and her husband. Leonora owns Samson, Woody’s tiny best friend, as well as two senior dogs. My friends and Samson will join us on our Thanksgiving day hike, but the seniors’ hiking days are over, alas. We’ll save them some turkey, instead. Leonora is currently fostering two adorable pit-mix puppies, about 7 weeks old now, for our local shelter.
Also fostering puppies for our shelter is my new friend Mary, who posted an ad on a neighborhood site a couple months ago looking for a playmate for her 1-year-old pit-mix dog, Izzy, and found me. Whether this is a good thing or a bad thing, she’ll have to tell me in a few weeks. On one hand, we’ve been taking lots of great hikes together with all of our dogs (she also owns a tiny Chihuahua/terrier-mix), but on the other hand, there’s this: When she asked me if there is anything she can ever help with at the shelter, I promptly set her up with a litter of five Lab-mix puppies, about 5 or 6 weeks old, to foster until they are old enough to be spayed/neutered and adopted. For now, she’s enjoying the wealth of puppy breath, and the puppy poop has not yet overwhelmed her, so I don’t think she’ll be shooting daggers at me across my sister’s Thanksgiving table.
I’ll be toting my camera on our walks, and visiting all the foster pups. I hope you all get out for a nice walk with your dogs, too! I’ll make a post on the WDJ Facebook page, and ask you to upload your Thanksgiving Day dog-walk photos there. Then we can all share how thankful we are to share our lives with dogs!
One of the things I goofed on was giving one dog her pills in the presence of another dog. I was dog-sitting my friend’s two Chihuahuas: 10-pound S’Mores, who needs blood pressure medication and a diuretic, and Samson, who weighed less than four pounds and was about six months old at the time. S’Mores spit out one of her pills, and Samson dived for it, swallowing it faster than I could grab him.
I had to call their veterinarian – who is also MY veterinarian – and confess to my mistake, and ask if there was something I should do; make Samson vomit, perhaps?
Thank goodness, the vet thought the dose was low enough that the one pill wouldn’t cause Samson any harm. But I started using a baby gate to make sure that only the dog who was supposed to receive the pill was in the room, until it was clear the pill had gone down the chute, so to speak.
I also confessed my error to my friend. She told me that it was indeed a challenge at her house, because she also has a third dog, Lena, who receives a strong pain medication each day, and who is a master at spitting pills out.
My friend knows her dogs well, and is careful, but she wasn’t using the “baby gate” technique I used after my mishap – though she is now.
Last Saturday morning, she was giving her two elderly dogs their meds, when 75-pound Lena spit out her Tramadol pill, and four-pound Samson dived for it and gobbled it down. My friend said she couldn’t believe how fast he was. Just as quickly, she called our local emergency veterinary clinic, and asked what she should do. The receptionist asked what the medicine was, what the dose was, and how much Samson weighs, and put her on hold for a minute. Then she came back and said that the veterinarian on call said she should bring Samson in, immediately. Mind you, the emergency clinic is a good 30 minutes away. And the closest clinic wouldn’t open for another 30 minutes.
After my mishap just days before with Woody (who swallowed a too-small ball), my friend had just bought a new bottle of hydrogen peroxide to keep on hand for emergencies like this. She asked the ER receptionist, “Should I make him vomit up the pill first? I have hydrogen peroxide.” But the receptionist told her no, she should just bring Samson to the vet, fast.
My friend said she told the receptionist she was at least a half hour from being able to get Samson to any vet; surely she should make him vomit first? And the receptionist told her, “No, it’s risky.”
My friend called me on speaker as she was hurriedly dressing, telling me all that had transpired. I jumped on my laptop and started Googling; was there a reason she shouldn’t make Samson vomit up a Tramadol pill? I was aware that there are certain things that you should not make a dog vomit – anything caustic, for example, or petroleum-based substances. I couldn’t find any reason that vomiting up the medication would be contraindicated, but neither I nor Google are veterinarians, so…
She drove Samson to the local vet, arriving a few minutes before they opened, and started banging on the door. Thankfully, they opened the door and the vet saw Samson before he had a chance to put on his white coat. He asked, “Did you make him vomit?” She said, “No! The emergency clinic told me not to!”
He said, “Well, that’s what we are going to do!” He whisked Samson into the back, and gave him an oral dose of hydrogen peroxide – not the injectable morphine-based medication that the ER gave Woody days before, to make him vomit up the ball. Within minutes, Samson vomited up the medication, but given the time elapsed (about 40 minutes at that point), the pill was dissolved. Given the high dosage of the pill, the veterinarian also recommended giving Samson some activated charcoal, to help absorb the medication and prevent it from being absorbed in his bloodstream, and subcutaneous fluids, to help dilute the effects of the medication and push it through his excretory system as quickly as possible (pee it out).
Long story short: Samson is fine. My friend’s bill:
$56 office visit. $25 for inducing vomiting. $15 for charcoal. $25 for the fluids. A bargain, compared to Woody’s visit for (sort of) the same thing (throw up what you shouldn’t have swallowed!).
My friend was annoyed with herself (as I was with myself, days earlier!) for failing to control the situation – and for not yet pulling the trigger on veterinary insurance for Samson. She and her husband had been discussing the cost just that morning, and the event stiffened her resolve to fit it into their budget.
Last week, I was stressed with too many demands on my time, and trying to finish the December issue in time to travel to Florida for a dog trainer’s conference (Pet Professional Guild, http://petprofessionalguild.com/). But Woody (my adolescent dog) and even Otto, my 9-year-old solid (canine) citizen, were both telling me they needed a run. So, instead of taking them out for an hours-long hike, as I prefer to do, I headed for a school field I know, to throw a ball for them for a while, instead.
A friend called a little while before I left and asked if I was walking that evening. When I told her my alternative plan, she asked if she could meet me with her dogs. Sure, why not?
I brought a Chuckit and a Chuckit Glow ball. Woody strongly prefers tennis balls, but he’s developed a bad habit of chomping on them so hard that he splits them open within minutes, and then they don’t fly far. He hasn’t been able to tear or chew these rubbery balls, and the fact that they glow in the dark means I can run him at night and still find the ball if it takes a crazy bounce.
My friend got to the field at the same time I did, and unloaded her two dogs. The larger dog is not particularly interested in fetch games, but her little terrier/Chihuahua-mix is. For the first time ever since we’ve met, my friend brought a small tennis-style ball for her little dog to chase, and a tennis racket with which to hit it. My brain registered this fact, and I said to myself, “Oh crap. I’ve got to keep Woody away from that little ball.”
Given that the field belongs to an elementary school, I was distracted by watching the three dogs in my care, and my friend’s two, to make sure that none of them pooped out of our sight or attention; it’s simply not acceptable for dog poo to go unnoticed and un-picked-up on a school field.
I was also trying to throw Woody’s ball in the opposite direction than my friend was throwing the small ball for her dog. But twice, my distractible dog was returning to me with his big ball in his mouth when my friend hit the small tennis ball for her dog, and Woody just dropped his ball and ran in pursuit of the little one. And at almost this same moment each time, one of our dogs squatted and pooped. I ran in pursuit of the poop, but I was forming a sentence to call out to my friend. “Hey!” I was just about to say, “This isn’t a good idea; Woody is going to choke on that ball!”
I got as far as “Hey!” And Woody promptly swallowed that ball. We had been on the field for about four minutes.
The good news was, he didn’t choke!
I thought I had better go home immediately and investigate. How big, exactly, was the ball he swallowed? Could he pass it through his system? If I gave him some hydrogen peroxide to make him vomit the ball back up, could he choke on it then?
I asked my friend to investigate the package of balls she had at home. What were the ball’s dimensions? The answer came back: the ball was 1.65 inches in diameter.
I called the emergency veterinary clinic, and discussed the matter with the receptionist. He, too, was concerned about the likelihood of Woody choking on the ball as it came back up. I dropped off my other dogs at home, and headed for the clinic so I could consult with a veterinarian, not just the receptionist.
It was a fairly busy night at the clinic, so I had time to do some googling in the waiting room. I found one veterinarian’s site that helpfully said that a medium-sized dog could easily vomit up anything that was 1.5 inches in diameter or smaller, but that anything bigger might require surgery or endoscopy to retrieve. Oy! How exasperating!
Also exasperating: Two weeks ago, while watching this exuberant young dog fly through the air and contort himself in crazily athletic maneuvers while fetching, I decided I really better buy pet health insurance for him. I just can see him pulling and ACL or hurting his back. I chose an insurance company and a plan, and sent them money for a year’s worth of coverage. The company responded quickly, and sent me a letter of acceptance, indicating that coverage would commence . . . three days from the day I was sitting there in the veterinary ER waiting room. ARGH!
When Woody and I finally got into an examination room, and a veterinarian finally came in – so much for the fetch session being faster than a hike! – we conferred about our options:
1: We wait and see if he vomits the ball on his own. (I rejected this plan right away. I was leaving town in three days for almost a week. With my luck, he’d vomit and choke while I was gone. No way.)
2: We make him vomit that night at the clinic with the vet standing by, ready to deal with a potential blockage if the ball gets caught in his throat on its way back up.
3: We give him general anesthesia, and use an endoscope to remove the ball from his stomach. The starting cost: $1,500. Ouch.
4: Surgery. I didn’t even ask about the cost of that.
I chose option #2. It wasn’t just the money. He swallowed that ball so easily, I just thought it would come back up fairly easily, too. After I made the choice, the veterinarian told me she thought this was the option she would take if it was her dog; she had confidence that even if the ball got stuck, that she and the other veterinary staff on duty would be able to get it out.
She also said that because Woody hadn’t eaten since that morning, she would feed him a can of wet food first, so there would be some soft mass helping push the ball out of his stomach.
The vet took Woody into the back, and I went out to the lobby to plug in my dying phone and pace.
It didn’t take even 10 minutes. Apparently, vets don’t use peroxide like we do; they use an injection (a $100 injection, lol) to induce vomiting. He vomited three times, and the ball was in the second batch.
Then they gave him an injection of an anti-nausea drug, to stop the vomiting, “so he doesn’t splatter your car on the way home.” That shot was $80!
I shouldn’t grouse about the money; I’m so happy to have a great 24-hour clinic not far away, and happy it turned out just fine for Woody. It was simply a costly lesson in “If you see something, say something . . . FAST!” I had a bad feeling about that little ball, but didn’t act on it quickly enough. That’s just one more mistake I’ve made with a dog that I never will again! And I hope that none of you who are reading this will make this mistake, either!
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
