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Salmonella in Pet Food

By
Nancy Kerns
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A product recall warning symbol.
Not all food recalls are actually a huge cause for concern—for our dogs, at least. All dog owners should be aware of the potential for human bacterial illness posed by dog food and chews. Credit: Getty Images

A friend asked me the other day, “Aren’t you concerned about feeding food from [company name redacted]? Because of all the recalls they’ve had?” When she clarified that the recall she was referencing was for Salmonella in a raw food, I told her why that didn’t particularly worry me. However, some recalls for Salmonella in dry dog foods concern me a bit more. She found the explanation interesting, so I’m going to reiterate it here:

Salmonella is a nearly ubiquitous bacteria in the animal world. Cattle, chickens, rodents, reptiles, and amphibians commonly carry Salmonella in their intestines and show no signs of illness. According to the Merck Manual, salmonellosis is most prevalent in regions with intensive animal husbandry, where food-source animals live in densely packed spaces where contact with their feces cannot be avoided. More than 2,500 groups (called serotypes) of Salmonella have been identified, including around 100 that cause illness (called salmonellosis) in humans.

According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), humans commonly get infected with Salmonella by eating contaminated food, such as raw or undercooked meat and poultry products, raw or undercooked eggs or egg products, raw or unpasteurized milk and dairy products, and raw fruits and vegetables. Poultry is among the leading sources of Salmonella foodborne illness acquired domestically in the United States. Currently, according to Consumer Reports, a chicken processing facility is allowed to have Salmonella in up to 9.8 percent of all whole birds it tests, 15.4 percent of all parts, and 25 percent of ground chicken. Food producers and manufacturers are expected to take all steps possible to reduce the levels of bacteria in their products, but the fact that there are allowable amounts at all is due to the expectation that the meats will be cooked before being consumed, thus rendering the bacteria harmless.

Humans are much more prone to salmonellosis than dogs. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention:

“Each year in the U.S., there are about 1.35 million cases of salmonellosis, with 26,500 hospitalizations and 420 deaths. Contaminated food is the source for most of these cases. Salmonellosis is the second leading cause of foodborne illnesses in the U.S. (after norovirus), but is the leading cause of hospitalizations and deaths from food poisoning.”

In contrast to humans, dogs who consume Salmonella-infected food (or Salmonella-infected feces) rarely suffer symptoms of salmonellosis. Cases of salmonellosis in dogs seem to occur only if a dog has consumed a sufficiently large dose of a virulent serotype of the bacteria, in which case they may develop acute enteritis. Some studies assert that as many as 20% of dogs may be infected with Salmonella—some with more than one serotype—without any symptoms of illness. Dogs who are carriers of the bacteria can shed the bacteria in their feces and saliva and thus serve as sources of infection in humans.

This is why the FDA is concerned about Salmonella in pet food, treats, and chews—because of the risk to humans who handle pet food and dishes, and who have household contact with dogs who may become infected from eating/chewing contaminated food.

When Should We Worry?

Because of the relatively ample amounts of Salmonella in our meat supply, it should be understood that pet food that is meant to be served to our dogs uncooked may well contain some amount of Salmonella, unless that food has been treated in some way to kill the bacteria. In addition to cooking, pet food producers may use high pressure pasteurization (HPP), irradiation, lactic and acetic acid washes, and/or a new technique called refrigerated instantaneous temperature cycling (RITC), a direct steam injection and vacuum expansion chilling meat pasteurization system, to reduce or eliminate the pathogenic bacteria that may be present in their products.

If the producer of a raw meat-based pet food doesn’t take any of these steps, they stand a much higher chance of having Salmonella detected in their products by the FDA, who will then issue a recall for the entire batch or lot of food that delivered a positive test result—even though the chance of a dog getting sick from the product is vanishingly small. In this case, it’s the humans who live with the dogs who eat the food that the FDA is trying to protect.

Still, people who feed raw diets to their dogs are generally aware of the risks of Salmonella (and other pathogenic bacteria) that may be present in raw meat-based foods, and handle those products and their serving dishes accordingly. You’d never let your toddler or an immune-compromised person in your household handle raw chicken, and every raw dog food I’ve ever seen is covered with warnings to protect vulnerable humans from exposure to the potential presence of pathogenic bacteria in a similar fashion.

I have greater concern about foods that have been produced via a method that absolutely kills pathogenic bacteria—that is, extruded and baked dry foods—that have tested positive for Salmonella. Why? Because most people handle these products as if they do not contain potentially pathogenic bacteria. Lots of people use kibble as treats, using their bare hands. Few people wash their dogs’ bowls daily in hot water and with soap, or wash their hands well after handling kibble or their kibble scooper. Most of us handle kibble like a breakfast cereal, free of pathogens—because it is supposed to be, but it might not be!

Baking and extruding does kill pathogenic bacteria, so when a dry food tests positive for Salmonella, it’s evidence that the food was contaminated after it was baked or extruded, either by bacterial-contaminated equipment or contaminated coatings that are applied after the kibble is cooked. Either route of contamination indicates a faulty or sloppy process, which makes me suspicious of the producer’s abilities.

All of this is why I’m not particularly concerned when a raw-food manufacturer has a recall for Salmonella-contaminated food, but my hackles go up when a dry-food maker issues an identical recall notice. In neither case am I worried about dogs getting sick from Salmonella; rather, I worry about vulnerable humans (such as toddlers or immune-compromised people) getting sick from treating kibble as an absolutely safe product when it may not be.

How To Get Started in Fast CAT, the Best Sport for Speedy Dogs

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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Coursing is a sport that lets dogs who like to run show what they can do.
A type of lure coursing, FAST CAT challenges your dog to a timed 100-meter dash after a plastic lure. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

From the day we brought her home at 10 weeks old, my Rough Collie puppy, Dashi, was obsessed with flirt poles, toys on long strings or ropes, and anything she could chase or pounce on. As a herding dog, she’s extremely attracted to movement, and anything quick-moving triggers her instinctual herding and chasing drive.

Fast CAT–short for fast coursing ability test–can be an excellent activity for dogs like Dashi who love the act of chasing, and it’s an extremely beginner-friendly dog sport that doesn’t require much training. If your pup is obsessed with the flirt pole or just needs an appropriate outlet for their prey drive, look into trying AKC Fast CAT.

What is Fast CAT?

At its core, Fast CAT is a type of lure coursing sport. During Fast CAT tests, dogs run a timed 100-meter dash chasing a lure (a plastic bag or other piece of plastic) on a moving line down a fenced-in course. Dogs are released by one person at the beginning of the course and caught at the end of the course by another. They accumulate points towards titles based on a formula that takes into account the dog’s height and speed, and even get ranked against other dogs in their breed.

How to Get Started in AKC Fast CAT

Fast CAT has the fewest barriers to entry of almost any dog sport. As an instinct-based sport, many dogs who like to chase will be able to enter an event and start accumulating points and titles with little to no practice. There are just a few rules all participants must follow:

Lure coursing is a canine sport that allows fast dogs to show off their speed.
It doesn’t take much practice to get start in Fast CAT, but good conditioning can go a long way to improving your dog’s times. Credit: Runner Photography
  • Your dog must have an AKC registration number, or if your dog is a mixed-breed, an AKC PAL number.
  • Your dog must be over 12 months of age to do an official run. Some clubs will allow puppy bumps (a shortened course length) or fun runs for younger dogs, but these don’t count towards title points.
  • Your dog must be physically sound. Fast CAT organizers will have you trot your dog down and back when you check into a test to make sure your dog isn’t limping and is moving normally.
  • If you have an intact female, she can’t be in heat at the time of the run. Fast CAT organizers will ask you to do a “tissue test” wipe when checking in to make sure your bitch isn’t in season.

How to Find and Enter Fast CAT Events

The easiest way to find Fast CAT tests near you is to use the AKC Event Search tool. Once you’re on the event search page, just click on “performance events”, then select Fast CAT. You can then filter upcoming events by date, state, and more criteria. Once you’ve found an event you’re interested in, click on “View Complete Event Details,” and you’ll get information like the host club’s website, the event chair, the Fast CAT contact person, and more.

AKC’s Event Search doesn’t always give you a direct link to enter Fast CAT tests. You’ll sometimes need to do some extra digging to find the actual event through a club website, or you may need to email the contact person listed for more information. In addition to AKC Event Search, joining Facebook groups related to dog sports can be a good way to find out about upcoming Fast CAT tests. Fast CAT is often held in conjunction with all-breed dog shows too, so check out the premium lists of any upcoming dog shows in your area to see if Fast CAT will be offered.

Many Fast CAT organizers offer discounted pre-entry if you register for runs ahead of time. In terms of cost, fun runs or puppy bumps are usually around $10, and pre-registration for real runs can run between $20-$35 per run depending on the area and the lure operator. Day-of registration is sometimes available too but is often more expensive than the pre-registration cost.

Tips for Your First Fast CAT Event

A collie prepares to launch into a sprint during a lure coursing event.
To begin a Fast CAT run, the dog is released by a handler. A second person, usually the dog’s primary handler, stands at the other end to catch her. Credit: Jae Thomas

If you know someone who can release your dog for you at the start line, ask them to come along! Oftentimes, it’s recommended that the dog’s owner be the one to catch them at the end of a Fast CAT run, so they sprint fast to get to you. Event staff usually have an extra person on hand to help release dogs, but if your dog isn’t comfortable with strangers handling them, it may be less stressful to have someone they know release them.

The Fast CAT environment can be overstimulating for some dogs. Many dogs bark and get over excited when they see the lure, so it’s best to wait for your dog’s turn away from the actual course. It’s a good idea to bring a crate and some kind of crate cover so you can give your dog some space away from the commotion.

Lastly, make sure to warm your dog up before her run! You wouldn’t want to do a 100-meter dash right after waking up from a nap, so walk your dog around, jog a bit, or do some canine conditioning exercises to get her ready to run her fastest.

How to Calculate Fast CAT Points

An award winning dog poses with her beautiful prize ribbon.
Fast CAT is open to all breeds and mixes. Participating dogs can earn points toward titles. Credit: Jae Thomas

Once your dog has run her first Fast CAT dash, you’ll probably want to see how fast she ran and how many points she earned. To get the miles per hour calculation, divide 204.54 by your dog’s run time. To calculate points, multiply that number by your dog’s handicap. Handicap depends on height and is intended to even the playing field for dogs of all sizes. For dogs under 12” at the withers, the handicap is 2, for dogs between 12” and 18”, the handicap is 1.5. Sorry large dogs, any dog over 18” at the shoulder has a handicap of 1, meaning their score won’t change due to their height.

For example, my Collie’s most recent run time was 9.72 seconds. When I divide 204.54 by 9.74, I get 21.04, which is her MPH. She’s over 18” at the shoulder, so I’ll multiply that by 1, which leaves me with the same number. That means she earned 21.04 points for her 9.72 second run.

Once your dog starts accumulating points, you can aim to start collecting titles (which often come with fun ribbons and rosettes). Here’s the lineup of Fast CAT titles and the respective points needed to achieve them:

  • BCAT: 150 points
  • DCAT: 500 points
  • FCAT: 1000 points

FCAT2, FCAT 3, etc: Dogs can gain additional FCAT levels with every additional 500 points earned

Easy Recipes for Pumpkin Dog Treats

By
CJ Puotinen
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Pumpkin dog treats can offer a seasonal and healthy treat for your dog.
Dog treats made with pumpkin, like the pumpkin peanut butter biscuits and pumpkin, carrot, and coconut biscuits pictured here, are a perfect fall treat for your dog. Credit: CJ Puotinen

Even though it’s best known for improving symptoms of indigestion, loose stools, and diarrhea, small amounts of pumpkin are appropriate anytime. Most dogs love the taste and pumpkin’s prebiotic fibers support the microbiome. Best of all, pumpkin dog treats are easy and fun to make.

 

 

 

Start With the Right Kind of Pumpkin

Plain pureed canned pumpkin is your primary ingredient. Try a made-for-dogs product like  Nummy Tum Tum Organic Pumpkin for Pets or use a single-ingredient canned pumpkin, such as Libby’s Pure Pumpkin Puree, Farmer’s Market Organic Pumpkin Puree or Lucky Leaf Canned Pumpkin. Canned pumpkin pie mix, which contains sugar and spices, is not recommended.

To make your own puree from fresh pumpkin, use small pumpkins sold for pie making rather than the fibrous jack-o-lantern pumpkins associated with October 31st. Cut 2 small pumpkins in half, scrape the seeds out with a spoon, and place the pieces face-down on a baking sheet. Bake at 350ºF (177ºC) for 45 minutes or until the pumpkin is golden brown and fork-tender. Peel the skin off and place chunks in a blender or food processor, adding a small amount of water if needed. Pulse or blend the pumpkin until smooth. Alternatively, mash the pumpkin with a potato masher, press it through a potato ricer, or process it with a food mill.

Store pumpkin puree in an airtight container in your refrigerator for up to 7 days, or place it in a Ziplock freezer bag, press the air out, and freeze it for up to 6 months.

Basic Instructions for Pumpkin Dog Biscuits

When making pumpkin dog biscuits, combine dry ingredients with a mixer, food processor, or by hand, then add other ingredients to create a stiff or soft dough. Lightly grease cookie sheets or line them with kitchen parchment paper before baking to prevent sticking.

Stiff doughs can be rolled flat with a rolling pin (place dough between two sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap or on a floured surface before rolling) and shaped with a cookie cutter, pizza cutter, or knife. For dog-related cookie cutters, visit

LokiDokiDog Cookie Cutters, The Cookie Cutter Shop Dog Cookie Cutters, or

Cheap Cookie Cutters Dog Collection. You can also shape stiff dough as a log or cylinder, wrap it in plastic wrap, refrigerate until firm, then slice the roll into discs. To create small round pumpkins, roll dough into balls, pull up to create a little stem on top, and press vertical lines into the sides with a knife.

Soft doughs can be pressed into silicon molds, such as those sold by SodaPup or Etsy Silicone Dog Bone Molds.

Most dog biscuit recipes call for wheat flour, but gluten-free flours are widely sold. Blends containing almond flour, coconut flour, arrowroot starch, tapioca starch, cassava flour, rice flour, or potato starch are designed to replace equal quantities of wheat flour. In the following dog biscuit recipes, use wheat flour or shop for a gluten-free or Paleo flour labeled as a one-to-one replacement for wheat flour.

All recipes are adjustable, so if a dough seems too liquid, add a little more flour, finely ground oats or other thickener. Baking times are approximate because cookie thickness, oven temperatures, and ingredients vary. I used Cup4Cup gluten-free flour to test the recipes given here.

For recipes using peanut butter, try made-for-dog brands that don’t contain xylitol, hydrogenated vegetable oils, sugar, or molasses. Examples include:

While baking dog treats, check the oven every 10 minutes and reduce or extend baking time as needed. Cool treats on a wire rack. Leaving treats at room temperature for a day or two helps harden biscuits to make them crunchier. Depending on ingredients, home-prepared treats may last several days to a week or more at room temperature or longer in the refrigerator. For long-term storage, freeze in air-tight containers. For holiday baking, mix cookie doughs ahead of time and refrigerate or freeze them until a few days before gift giving, then bake and gift-wrap.

Try These Easy Recipes

Cookies and biscuits are excellent pumpkin flavored treats for dogs.
Soft pumpkin treats are great for dogs who have tooth problems or don’t prefer crunchy biscuits. Credit: CJ Puotinen

Pumpkin Peanut Butter Biscuits for Dogs

  • 3/4 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup peanut butter
  • 1 egg
  • 2 cups gluten-free or equivalent flour

Combine the pumpkin, peanut butter, and egg yolk in a large bowl. Gradually add flour and stir until combined. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough to 1/4-inch thickness. Cut shapes by hand or with cookie cutters and place 1 inch apart on prepared cookie sheets. Bake at 375oF (190oC) for 20-25 minutes or until lightly brown.

Pumpkin, Carrot, and Coconut Biscuits for Dogs

  • 2 cups gluten-free or equivalent flour
  • 3/4 cup pumpkin puree
  • 2 tablespoons unsweetened peanut or almond butter
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 cup grated carrots
  • 1 cup shredded dried unsweetened coconut

Combine ingredients, roll to 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick and shape with cookie cutters. Bake at 350oF (177oC) for 30 to 35 minutes, or until lightly brown.

Soft Pumpkin Treats for Dogs

“Soft” treats are appreciated by dogs with tooth problems. Most contain vegetable glycerin, a plant-derived syrup that acts as a moisturizer and preservative. Food-grade vegetable glycerin from Glycerin Supplier, Starwest Botanicals, and other manufacturers is sold online and in natural food stores. If you don’t have vegetable glycerin, substitute honey, which also works well in soft treats.

  • 2 cups pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup grated apple or 1/4 cup applesauce
  • 1/4 cup honey or vegetable glycerin
  • 1 egg
  • 1-1/2 cups gluten-free or equivalent flour

Combine ingredients and drop dough with a teaspoon to form mounds on prepared baking sheets, placing them an inch or more apart. Bake at 350oF (177oC) for 20 minutes. Refrigerate in an airtight container to maintain soft consistency and prevent mold growth.

Frozen Pumpkin Treats for Dogs

Frozen pumpkin dog treats are quick to mix, but take time to freeze.
Though they take some time to freeze, pumpkin frozen yogurt treats are quick and easy to make. Credit: CJ Puotinen

 

Here are three simple variations:

Pumpkin Peanut Butter Frozen Treats

  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup peanut butter
  • 1/4 cup melted or softened coconut oil

Pumpkin Frozen Yogurt Treats

  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup Greek yogurt or regular yogurt that you strain overnight through cheesecloth or a mesh strainer to thicken it
  • 1/4 cup melted or softened coconut oil

Pumpkin Banana Frozen Treats

  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup mashed ripe banana
  • 1/4 cup melted or softened coconut oil

Mix ingredients and fill silicone molds or ice cube trays. Freeze for at least 2 hours, then remove treats from the molds or trays and store them in an air-tight freezer bag or container. Remove treats from the freezer a few minutes before serving.

Pumpkin Gummy Treats for Dogs

Gummy pumpkin dog treats are an intriguing change from the usual dog treat.
Pumpkin gummy treats are perfect for training or as a yummy topper for your dog’s dinner. Credit: CJ Puotine

 

Gelatin is the key ingredient in sweet or savory gummy treats. Unflavored gelatin powder is available from Great Lakes Grass-Fed Gelatin, Knox Gelatine, and other brands. Soda Pup sells Dogtastic Jelly Shots Gelatin with holiday-themed silicone molds. Gelatin is recommended for aging joints, increased mobility, improved digestion, strong bones, and skin and coat health. Unfortunately, gelatin does not freeze well. Use gummies as training treats or as additions to your dog’s dinner. Adding more gelatin will create firmer gummies.

For your first gummies, sprinkle 3 tablespoons gelatin powder over 1/4 cup unheated coconut water, bone broth, soup stock, water, or other liquid and let it stand a minute or two until the gelatin is absorbed. Heat 1/2 cup of the same liquid until almost boiling, add it to the gelatin, and stir to blend. Add 1/2 cup pumpkin puree and stir gently. Pour into a lightly oiled silicon mold, loaf pan, or tray. Refrigerate until firm. Remove gummies from silicon molds. If using a loaf pan, remove the single slab of cold gelatin and cut it with a knife or cookie cutters. Refrigerate gummies, tightly sealed, for up to 2 weeks.

Weathering Storms With Your Dog

By
Kate O'Connor
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Being prepared can save both you and your dog during an emergency.
Even if you don’t have to evacuate, strong wind, torrential rain, flooding, and infrastructure damage can keep you and your dog trapped in the house during and after a big storm. Make sure you have everything you need to be safe. Credit: Chalabala | Getty Images

Here in Georgia, the end of last week was windy, waterlogged, and a good reminder of how important it can be for everyone—especially pet owners—to be prepared for natural disasters. Although I’ve lived in hurricane-prone regions before, I moved to the area a month ago from the northeastern U.S. and neither my human nor dog hurricane kits are quite what they used to be. The impending arrival of Hurricane Helene not only called for refreshing them, it got me thinking about what I really needed on hand to feel like I could keep my dog safe.

Putting Together an Emergency Kit for Your Dog

Even if you don’t live in an area where natural disasters occur often, it’s a good idea to keep some kind of emergency kit on hand. I’ve only had to use mine a few times, thank goodness, but it’s been invaluable when I’ve needed it.

Some things to include in an emergency kit are:

  • Food: I prefer to have a minimum of two weeks of food on hand. If your dog is on a special diet, remember that supply lines can be affected if the damage is bad enough. It might be worth storing more if you can.
  • Water: It’s generally recommended that you have at least 3 days’ worth of clean drinking water available. That’s typically calculated as 1 gallon of water per person per day plus extra for pets. I plan an extra gallon per day for my Airedale, Carmen, who weighs about 50 pounds.
  • Medications: If your dog is on medication, make sure you have several weeks’ worth available. Again, you don’t want to be frantically searching for an essential medication if disaster damage slows down shipments.
  • First-aid kit: A basic pet first-aid kit can be a big help for minor injuries, especially if you can’t make it to a veterinarian. For some suggestions on what to include, see “12 Items to Include in Your DIY Dog First-Aid Kit.”
  • Paperwork: It’s a good idea to keep printed copies of your dog’s vaccine records, vet contact info, microchip information, food and medication schedules, and a photo in your emergency kit. If you need to send your dog with someone else—for example, if you were badly injured and had to be taken to the hospital—this can make all the difference in keeping her safe and healthy until you can get back to her.
  • Extra collar and leash: It’s always a good idea to have spares in case something breaks.
  • Crate or carrier: It’s important to have an easily transportable, secure way to contain your pet. If you have a large dog, consider a collapsable travel crate. The last thing you want is for her to bolt in a strange place.
  • Bowls and bedding: While not essential, it’s a huge help to have food and water bowls on hand. I keep a water bucket that I can clip to the crate door. Familiar bedding can help a dog feel more comfortable in an unfamiliar environment.

Preparing for Evacuation

Evacuating with dogs can be difficult, especially if you have multiple animals or if they are not used to car travel. If you think you might need to evacuate, go as early as you can. Pack the car well in advance. If you need to get several crates or carriers in the car, I’d recommend doing a test run to make sure everything fits the way you think it will. Trying to outrun a storm is the wrong time to discover that you need an extra inch of clearance to get the travel crates in the back seat.

You’ll also need a plan for where you are going to go and where you will stay when you get there. Pet-friendly hotels can book up fast. Some states, of which Georgia is one, provide resources for evacuating pet owners that include lists of pet-friendly places to stay.

Pack your emergency kit and, if at all possible make sure your dog is wearing a collar or harness with a current identification and rabies tags.

Sheltering at Home

For the most part, the things you need to shelter at home with your dog during a natural disaster will be in your emergency kit: food, medication, first-aid kit, and so on. Although I don’t use them day-to-day, I do stock potty pads in case taking my dog outside to relieve herself is unsafe. As a note, if you decide to use something similar, you will need to work with your dog first to be sure she’s comfortable using them.

Keep in mind that the intensity of a hurricane or tropical storm can be frightening to your dog even if she is not usually afraid of storms. The same goes for blizzards, floods, fires, and other natural disasters. Extreme conditions can be scary for all involved. Watch for signs of stress and be prepared to comfort your dog if she needs it.

Finally, if you find yourself stuck inside with an energetic young dog (which is exactly what happened to me last week), it doesn’t hurt to have some entertainment planned. It’ll help keep you both sane until the weather clears.

The long and short of all of this is that being prepared can save a lot of stress and potential heartache. If you’re not sure what to do, the U.S. government, along with organizations such as the American Red Cross, offer resources aimed at helping pet owners prepare for emergencies. If you haven’t done so already, I highly recommend making an emergency kit for your dogs and spending a bit of time thinking through what you might need to do in the event of a natural disaster.

Dog Sedation For Grooming

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dog sedation for grooming is an option for dogs that find it stressful or taumatic.
Some dogs think going to the groomer is great fun! Others do not. If your dog is in the latter category, consider time and training whenever possible instead of sedation.

In some cases, a dog may need to be sedated for grooming. For example, if you have a new rescue dog who is badly matted, sedation may be the kindest way to get him shaved and nails trimmed. Beyond that, though, some questions need to be asked and training seriously considered before allowing sedation.

Acepromazine for Dogs

Acepromazine is a commonly used drug for dog sedation, but it is not a good choice. It has no effect on pain and does not reduce anxiety—all it does is keep your dog somewhat immobile—not the best way to get a dog accustomed to being groomed. Acepromazine is also on the list of drugs to use with extreme caution in dogs with the MDR1 genetic defect.

Acepromazine can lower blood pressure and interacts with a variety of gastrointestinal medications and flea and tick treatments. Acepromazine is not reversible, and some dogs take a long time to completely come out of its sedative influence.

Veterinarians are more likely to reach for trazodone, which is a human medication used for depression. It also has some interactions and side effects, of course, but your veterinarian will guide you. If your dog truly needs full sedation for grooming, you need to find a safe option.

OTC Dog Sedative for Grooming

If your dog doesn’t really need full sedation but just the excitable “edge” taken off, you might want to try some over-the-counter options. Many herbal and oil combos can mellow a dog, such as Canine Calm, which is an essential oil mix that can help your dog to view grooming more positively.

Hemp bites and chews may help your dog through the stress of grooming, but before you buy any, ask your veterinarian for reputable sources as some brands are not consistent from batch to batch.

Dog pheromones help settle some dogs. Try an Adaptil collar, bandana with spray, or find out if they have a diffuser in the grooming salon.

With any of these OTC options, you need to experiment to see how long it takes your dog to respond to the products. Not all dogs are affected the same way.

Skip Sedation for Nail Trimming

Nail trimming is over so quickly that sedating your dog is basically overkill. The OTC options may work, but the best way to handle nail trimming for a phobic dog is to use time, patience, and baby steps.

First, handle your dog’s toes and feet while providing treats until he doesn’t pay any attention to that. You can add in snapping the clippers so your dog can hear them, also while feeding a couple of great treats. You may need to repeat this for several days before moving beyond this step.

Once he seems to think “treat” instead of “scary noise,” gradually bring the clippers closer until you can clip a small portion of one nail. You may end up trimming one nail a day eventually, but that is still progress.

Some dogs are OK for a regular nail clipper and others prefer a Dremel nail grinding tool. (Careful! Don’t care tangled up in them!) Experiment to see what’s best for your dog.

Don’t dismiss the idea of a muzzle. If your dog has been trained to accept a muzzle, many dogs calm down as soon as it is put on. Again, this requires effort by you ahead of time.

Choose Your Groomer Wisely

Find a groomer willing to work with you and your timid dog, but you should also be prepared to pay extra. Schedule your dog when he is the only one at the salon. Less activity means less stress. Only do as much as your dog is ready to handle, so you may need a bunch of 15-minute appointments. Your dog might be better with you there to hold his paw, or he might be better behaved and less stressed if you’re not there. This is especially true if YOU are stressed.

A Long Line: The Surprising Problem-Solver

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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Long line training allows dogs room to explore without pulling their owners around.
Tired of being pulled by your sled-dog around the block? Start fresh and build a new, loose-leash pattern with a long line in a big park. Credit: Kathy Callahan

There are lots of tools out there designed to solve your dog problems, but you know what might be your best bet?  A no-frills, inexpensive, 20-foot lead.

This least sexy of all tools addresses the three most common frustrations we trainers hear about from dog owners: leash-pulling, reactivity, and a refusal to come when called. The trick, of course, is learning how to use that extra length to teach the good stuff.

 

 

 

Learning Not to Pull

The ever-changing outdoor environment is wildly exciting for our dogs. Alas, when they enthusiastically zigzag after every scent, bike, or friend, they yank us along with them.  Caught without a plan, we end up pulling right back. Very quickly, a pattern becomes ingrained: walks consist of a constantly taut leash, and conflict.

To break free, start fresh! Head to a new spot, with a different approach. Ditch the 6-footer and grab a long line, which is essentially a longer, thinner, lighter leash. This beautifully simple device can allow you and your dog the graceful distance to begin learning how to move through the world together in sync, without constant two-way tugging. (I don’t use retractables for many reasons, including the fact that it teaches a dog that constant leash pressure is normal.)

This dog is taking advantage of its long line training to explore and sniff.
The combination of a long line and a big park helps anxious and reactive dogs to gather the data they need to feel more comfortable in this world. They have the agency to sniff at their own pace and observe others at what feels like a safe distance. Credit: Kathy Callahan

Give it a try. Take a 20-foot lead, grab a pouch full of terrific treats, and head to a big park at a time that’s not too busy so that you’ve got some room. As soon as you get out of the car, reward your dog for some things that are easy for her to do even amid distraction. (It’s okay if that’s just “find it” as you keep tossing a treat right in front of her!)  Now she knows you have the stuff she loves best— dried liver? tiny bits of cheddar?—on board.

Next, let your dog follow her nose, perhaps encouraging her to the edges of the wilder-looking areas where animal smells will naturally slow her down. The beautiful thing here is that she can enjoy her sniffari—scenting back and forth, leaping forward, then lingering—without pulling that very long leash taut. If you tried to do this with a six-footer you might already be in conflict, and annoyed.

Now, here’s the big moment that will be the cornerstone of your future loose-leash walks around the block: After at first being too absorbed in her surroundings to check in with you, your dog is finally going to look in your direction. The very second she does, reward her! Give a happy “yes!” and a taste of the very best you have, maybe the salmon-flavored Bark Pouch.

It is so very easy to miss this incredible moment! Don’t. Train yourself to watch for and reward every single voluntary check-in: the head swivel in your direction, the quick moment of eye contact, the move closer to you, the circle back to hang next to you. Remember, you’re not asking for or cueing this engagement, you’re waiting for her to offer it. That’s the dynamic we want to set up for the future! We don’t want you to have to constantly ask for her to move with you through the world—we want her to choose it.  This simple, beautiful activity teaches just that.

Once you’ve been rewarding simple check-ins for a while, and she’s choosing to hang out near you, the next stage is to offer an easy “find it” as you walk along.  Is she sticking with you even though she’s got 20 feet of freedom? Now you know she’s in a perfect state to learn that it feels great to engage with you on leash. You can start asking for whatever she does easily at home—maybe that’s just sits and touches, or maybe it’s downs and stays. Maybe you’re going fast, slow, fast, slow, encouraging her as she matches your pace. At this early stage, there are treats galore as you work to instill a deep sense that hanging close to you is the most rewarding choice no matter the environment. That understanding is the prize, and it’s what will eventually allow you and your dog ready to walk in sync on a 6-foot leash around your own block.

Build a Great Recall

A long line is also an incredible tool for teaching a terrific recall. Perhaps your dog is happy enough to come when you call him at home, but the second you’re anyplace more interesting—forget it! That’s a typical stage in recall training, and many people stall out there.

Enter the long line. Start with exactly the scenario outlined in the previous section: 20-footer, great treats, big park, and a sniffari. Wait for those voluntary check-ins, and reward a few. Now we’re ready to teach a great recall.

Giving your dog a treat when they return of their own accord will help with long line training.
A high-value treat at this key moment—when she has opted on her own to circle back even though she was 20 feet away exploring—teaches this dog that it’s always a great idea to check in. That’s the first step to a great recall. Credit: Kathy Callahan

Here’s the crazy-sounding key to training your dog to respond to the cue “Come!”: Don’t call him until he is already coming to you! If, in the beginning stages of training, you call him when he’s completely engaged in a scent, or staring at a bird, the odds are low that he’ll respond. If you do that over and over, the word “come” will become background noise that is, if anything, just annoying. Instead, wait for an obvious win for you both. When he finishes sniffing a particular plant, turns to you and begins to meander over, cheerily start calling him, and then reward with something terrific.

Here’s the important next step: then encourage him to go off and have more fun. So often, dogs don’t hear “come” until the end of the adventure, right before they have to get in the car and go home. An enormous part of successful recall training is making sure that negative link does not get established. Right after you reward that “come,” follow up with “Let’s go sniff some more!”

Then . . . repeat, and repeat. Spend a lovely hour at the park, marking and rewarding engagement, calling your dog as she is already coming. Now it’s going to be really sinking in that engaging with you is like winning the jackpot.

If you’re like the rest of us, you’ll now be tempted to push it. You see your dog at the end of the long line, staring at another dog across the park, and you want to call her, just to see if it worked and you now have a great recall. I know it’s tough to resist, but I promise that the tortoise really does win the race. Don’t call a dog who is having a great time doing something else until way, way down the line in your training. Great dog training is like watching paint dry, folks. It’s really boring—but then at some point the result is actually beautiful.

You can definitely build on your recall training by doing all of this off leash in your own yard, but the benefit of the long line is that it mimics the situations where you’re really going to want that recall. If your dog is used to being pretty far from you in an interesting new place and still coming when called, that’s a big win.

Decreasing Reactivity through Observation

One of the things I most like “prescribing” to a client who’s upset about her dog’s reactivity is to go hang out in a park with a long line. It’s easy, it’s relaxing, and it helps—sometimes dramatically.

It’s jarring when your dog who’s so sweet at home turns into Cujo on a walk, barking and lunging at dogs, people, cars, bikes, or whatever else. It’s easy to interpret that response as angry aggression. But very often it’s fear, based on lack of familiarity: “I don’t know what the heck that is but it’s probably a threat and I’d better make sure it doesn’t get closer!”

It’s time for—I know you know the answer by now, so say it with me—a long line and a big park! Why? Because our dogs can’t read books or browse the internet. The only parts of the world they can learn about are the teeny tiny slivers we show them. So of course many dogs are anxious and bark out their big feelings when they head outside of their home cocoons and see new things that are fast, loud, looming and unpredictable.

Dogs need to gather data to feel better about their world, and a long line in a park is a terrific, safe-feeling way to do that. Distance is the worried dog’s best friend, and he needs you to arrange it for him. Ponder the best spot and the best time. Get out of the car only after making sure the coast is clear. Maybe that sounds like a lot of work, but surprises are the enemy of feeling safe. Just because you know that little barking leashed chihuahua isn’t a threat doesn’t mean your dog knows that!

Here’s how we teach him. Let him first catch sight of that chihuahua from a long distance. Let him watch. Let him process what he sees, hears, smells. If he’s barking or lunging, he needs more distance. Back up until he can observe calmly. Then just sit together and gather data. (You don’t need a long line to do this part, but it can help establish a sense of his having agency during this experience.)

After a while, your dog will realize that the Chihuahua is not a threat and turn to you. That’s a huge moment. He’s just come to a conclusion: “Hey, that thing over there is no big deal. It won’t affect us.” Offer a treat. Offer some easy cues (sit, touch). If he’s stealing glances at the chihuahua and then back to you, he might need a bit more time to observe. If not, he’s ready to move on until there’s something else he needs to learn about. Kids playing basketball? A group of folks on a picnic? Another dog playing frisbee? Get yourself to a distance that feels safe to your dog and let him watch until he doesn’t need to anymore.

A lot of the very best dog training looks like doing nothing! If I made a video of one of these sessions, it would seem like not much is happening.

Untrue. An enormous shift is occurring. A dog is beginning to feel safe in his world. Let’s give him the distance and time he needs to fully absorb that lesson.

Long live the long line.

Understanding Canine Dysfunctional Behavior

By
Dr. Kate Mornement Phd, CAAB
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1
Canine dysfunctional behavior in dogs is roughly equivalent to autism in dogs.
Symptoms of canine dysfunctional behavior can include obsessive compulsive behaviors, inappropriate responses to situations or stimuli, and poor communication skills. Credit: Jena Ardell | Getty Images

Does your dog exhibit autism-like behavior? I have had several clients ask me if their dog could have autism and whether this could explain their dog’s behavior. In humans, autism spectrum disorder (ASD) is characterized by persistent deficits in two core areas from early in a child’s development. These include socio-communication (e.g. poor communication and social skills, impaired emotional connection) and restricted, repetitive patterns of behavior (e.g. stereotypic movement, fixated interests and insistence on rigid routines). In dogs, these behaviors are more commonly known as canine dysfunctional behavior.

What is Canine Dysfunctional Behavior?

Canine dysfunctional behavior is an idiopathic condition, meaning that we don’t yet know what definitively causes it. It is believed that dogs with canine dysfunctional behavior are deficient in mirror neurons, which are believed to be important for helping dogs and puppies “mirror” other dogs’ behaviors when socializing. Canine dysfunctional behavior is currently poorly understood but is thought to mimic a number of autism-like behaviors in humans. Indeed, researchers have identified dogs as a model for many human neuropsychiatric conditions, including ASD due to the similarities in symptoms.

Symptoms of Canine Dysfunctional Behavior

Although a definitive list of symptoms of canine dysfunctional behavior is currently lacking, there are a number of common symptoms that are believed to indicate canine dysfunctional behavior. These include:

Obsessive compulsive behaviors

These include repetitive or stereotypical movement or actions such as tail chasing, circling, fly snapping, excessive licking or chewing, or pacing in the yard along a well-worn path. Obsessive compulsive behaviors interfere with normal function and can negatively impact wellbeing and welfare.

Inappropriate responses to situations or stimuli

A dog with canine dysfunctional behavior may overreact in response to stimuli or situations considered quite normal for a dog. For example, they may yelp in response to gentle touch, over-react to sudden noises, or shut down and retreat from unfamiliar environments or situations.

Poor communication

Dogs with canine dysfunctional behavior may be poor at communicating their feelings and emotions with us and other dogs through their behavior and body language. For example, avoiding eye contact.

Trance-like behavior and episodic aggression

Sudden explosive aggression and trance like behavior have been observed in dogs and is believed to be linked to canine dysfunctional behavior.

How Is It Diagnosed?

Canine dysfunctional behavior is difficult to diagnose due to its similarity to several other conditions such as canine compulsive disorder, canine anxiety disorders, and other neurological disorders. Furthermore, canine dysfunctional behavior is not yet well understood. If you believe canine dysfunctional behavior is the cause of your dog’s behavioral issues, it’s best to seek professional help from your veterinarian for a thorough examination and informed diagnosis. This may involve a referral to a veterinary specialist for further investigation.

What Does the Research Say?

Currently, very little research exists investigating canine dysfunctional behavior in dogs. However, the available research has found that some dog behavioral issues such as tail chasing in Bull Terriers may serve as an indication of autism-like behaviors. Tail chasing is a stereotypical behavior closely associated with owner-directed explosive aggression, trancing, social withdrawal, and a persistent obsession with objects (Topál et al., 2019) [1]. Furthermore, dogs that tail chase have been found to cope poorly with stressful situations. Interestingly, male dogs are affected more often than females (Moon-Fanelli et al., 2011 [2]) which is also the case with autism in humans.

In another study, results from a dog owner survey on the social behaviors of Miniature and Standard Poodles indicated autism-like behaviors in individuals of these breeds (Zamzow, et al., 2017 [3]). It has also been found that puppies that react negatively to being touched by a human handler are more likely to be withdrawn from the guide dog training program than more sociable subjects (Asher et al., 2013 [4]). In a study by Protopopova et al. (2014 [5]), dogs that showed a predisposition for stereotypic behaviors differed from the normal population in terms of their cognitive flexibility. The researchers found that they showed increased resistance to extinction in a reversal learning task.

How To Manage Canine Dysfunctional Behavior

There is no known cure for canine dysfunctional behavior. However, identifying your dog’s triggers can be help you manage or avoid the situations that may set your dog off and exacerbate their behavior. It is also important to understand that some aspects of canine dysfunctional behavior may not improve, such as your dog’s social interaction skills, and these dogs are best managed in a way so as to avoid causing distress.

Dogs that have been diagnosed as having canine dysfunctional behavior may benefit from the implementation of a consistent routine including regular exercise and mental stimulation to help minimize stress and anxiety. They may also benefit from behavior modification training to improve their ability to cope with triggering stimuli or situations, and in some cases, your veterinarian may prescribe medications to help reduce anxiety and compulsive behaviors.

References:

[1] Topál, J., Román, V., & Turcsán, B. (2019). The dog (Canis familiaris) as a translational model of autism: It is high time we move from promise to reality. Wiley Interdisciplinary Reviews: Cognitive Science, 10(4), e1495.

[2] Moon-Fanelli, A. A., Dodman, N. H., Famula, T. R., & Cottam, N. (2011). Characteristics of compulsive tail chasing and associated risk factors in Bull Terriers. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, 238(7), 883-889.

[3] Zamzow, R. M., Lit, L., Hamilton, S., & Beversdorf, D. Q. (2017). Characterizing autism-relevant social behavior in poodles (Canis familiaris) via owner report. Journal of Comparative Psychology, 131(2), 139.

[4] Asher, L., Blythe, S., Roberts, R., Toothill, L., Craigon, P. J., Evans, K. M., … & England, G. C. (2013). A standardized behavior test for potential guide dog puppies: Methods and association with subsequent success in guide dog training. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 8(6), 431-438.

[5] Protopopova, A., Hall, N. J., & Wynne, C. D. (2014). Association between increased behavioral persistence and stereotypy in the pet dog. Behavioural processes, 106, 77-81.

 

 

Can Dogs Get Food Poisoning?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
Dogs can get food poisoning from consuming an animal they find dead, or by eating unsafe or harmful foods.
Dogs can easily consume a pathogen that causes food poisoning just sniffing along a trail and grabbing something to munch down on. Credit: Mike Linnane 500px | Getty Images

Food poisoning is an illness caused by food contaminated with bacteria, viruses, or parasites. It may seem like dogs are immune to food poisoning, as they often eat things that would land us in the hospital, but they are susceptible to many of the same pathogens that impact humans. The difference is that, in a healthy adult dog, a larger pathogen load may be required to induce illness. This makes dogs seem impervious to food poisoning compared to people. It’s a common misconception.

Symptoms of Food Poisoning in Dogs

Symptoms of food poisoning in dogs include:

  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Bloating
  • Loss of appetite
  • Lethargy
  • Dehydration

Depending on the pathogen consumed, some dogs also may show neurological signs:

  • Tremors
  • Loss of coordination

Preventing Food Poisoning in Dogs

Clearly, protecting dogs from food poisoning means keeping things they shouldn’t eat out of their mouths.

Garbage and compost should be kept out of reach as they pose multiple hazards. Cooked bones can shatter and perforate intestines, and corn cobs are a common cause of intestinal obstruction.

However, the bacteria and fungus present in rotting food poses the largest risk for food poisoning. As meat spoils, bacteria such as Salmonella, E. Coli, Listeria, and C. botulinum multiply. These bacteria produce toxins that are harmful to dogs and persist in the spoiled food even if the bacteria are killed.

Because of this, dogs should not eat expired foods or meat, even cooked. Like meat, rotting fruits and vegetables harbor harmful bacteria, but they also provide a perfect substrate for mold growth. Some molds produce mycotoxins, which can cause a variety of symptoms, from gastrointestinal (GI) upset to neurological issues, depending on the type and quantity ingested.

Dead Animals

Dead animals contain dangerous bacteria, viruses, and parasites that can be incredibly harmful to your pet as well. Be sure to keep your four-legged friend away from any dead and decaying items roadside, in the woods, or in the yard.

Feces, which many of our furry companions consider to be a delicacy, contains high levels of potentially harmful bacteria, such as Clostridium and Giardia, but it can also have parasites, such as hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms. Regardless of the species of origin, consumption of fecal matter can be the cause of an upset stomach in dogs and should be prevented if possible.

Harmful Foods

Recalled dog food and treats can also cause food poisoning in our pets. Diets may be recalled if they are found to have bacterial contamination, mold, or toxins present. While rare, recalls have occurred for all formats of food and treats, so be sure to keep an eye out for announcements from the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

Raw and undercooked meat, eggs, and unpasteurized dairy products can also be a source of harmful bacteria. For dogs on a raw diet, food or ingredients should be high-quality and fresh from a reputable source. Proper storage and handling practices are essential to ensure the health and safety of our companions.

Contact Your Veterinarian

If you suspect your dog has food poisoning, practice safety measures when handling and cleaning up after them, as the pathogens making them ill can also cause illness in humans.

Wearing gloves, sanitizing bedding and surfaces, and quarantining your sick pup will minimize the spread to people and other animals in the home. If your dog is showing signs of food poisoning, especially severe symptoms like persistent vomiting, diarrhea, bloody diarrhea, lethargy, or neurological signs, contact your veterinarian immediately and seek treatment.

Psychiatric Service Dogs and Flying

By
Nancy Kerns
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17
A animal rides in a cabin with their owner.
Is it an overheated service animal? Or a stressed pet owned by someone who has lied about its training? It’s pretty much impossible to know. Photo by alefeldt, Getty Images.

If you have flown anywhere lately, you are likely aware that there are many dogs flying with their owners these days. Take a stroll down any airline terminal, and you will see a number of dogs strolling on leash with their owners—and quite a few behaving in ways that are quite uncharacteristic of trained service dogs. I’ve seen dogs relieving themselves in airline terminals, barking or growling at other dogs, pulling on their leashes, and panting and showing other signs of stress.

I have chalked all of this up to the fact that so-called Emotional Service Animals (ESAs) were permitted to fly with their owners on airplanes for free, and that more and more people were willing to call their pet dogs an emotional service animal. But I was unaware until recently that in March 2021, after a lengthy public comment period and analysis, the Department of Transportation (DOT) changed the rules in its Air Carrier Access Act (ACAA) concerning emotional service animals (ESAs) on airplanes. At least when it comes to air travel, ESAs have been reclassified as pets, with no greater rights or privileges on airplanes as any other pets. Today, only service dogs—dogs who have been individually trained to do work or perform tasks for the benefit of a person with a disability—can fly with their owner outside of a pet carrier.

Undoubtedly, some owners who previously claimed that their dogs were emotional service animals are now claiming that their dogs are service dogs, trained to perform specific tasks if they detect their owner is having or about to have a psychiatric challenge or crisis. Owners of a psychiatric service dog must now submit forms to the airline they plan to travel with, attesting to their service animal’s health, behavior, and training.

As daunting as that may sound, a person who just really wants to fly with their reasonably well-behaved dog in the cabin with them will not find it difficult to lie on these forms—though I must mention that the forms state at the top, “It is a Federal crime to make materially false, fictitious, or fraudulent statements, entries, or representations knowingly and willfully on this form to secure disability accommodations provided under regulations of the United States Department of Transportation.”

I love seeing calm, well trained service dogs in public—and I hate seeing stressed dogs who are clearly being pushed past their comfort zone being dragged through public places. I find it hard to believe that there at genuinely that many people with trained psychiatric service dogs traveling by air, but maybe I am just flat wrong.

What’s your experience with dogs in airports and on airplanes?

When Can Puppies Start Eating Hard Food?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Puppies can start eating hard food in between 3 and 4 weeks old.
Puppies may need to be fed three to four times a day until they are at least 6 months old. Credit: BusyBee CR | Getty Images

Transitioning a puppy from a milk-based diet to solid foods is an important milestone in a puppy’s growth and development. Understanding when and how to introduce hard food is important as it can influence your puppy’s health, growth, and overall well-being.

Most puppies can start transitioning to solid foods between 3 and 4 weeks of age. At this stage, they are typically ready to start exploring solid foods as their teeth start coming in and they begin to show interest in more than just their mother’s milk. The first introduction to solids is typically soft food mixed with milk replacer and is a very messy ordeal, so be sure they are in a place that can be easily cleaned.

Choosing a Puppy Food

When choosing a food to introduce to puppies, opt for a high-quality food that is specifically formulated for the growth and development of puppies. This is especially important for large-breed puppies.

Start with a food that is easy to chew. Some brands offer smaller, softer kibble, or food that is designed to be soaked in water, which can help to ease the transition from a milk to solid diet.

Begin by mixing a small amount of solid food with puppy formula to create a porridge-like consistency. This will help the puppies adjust to the new texture, flavor, and aroma of hard foods. Gradually decrease the amount of liquid and increase the proportion of solid food over the course of a week or two. A slow transition can help prevent digestive upset and allows time for the gastrointestinal tract, and the microbiome of the gut, to adjust to the change in diet.

Puppies have very small stomachs and high energy needs. They typically require three to four meals a day until they are about 6 months old. Follow the feeding guidelines for the type of solid food you choose and adjust the portions based on the puppy’s growth and activity levels.

Puppies are in a state of constant change, which means they may go through growth periods and require more food. Both overfeeding and underfeeding can lead to health issues, so flexibility and adjustments in feeding amount and frequency are important.

Regular veterinary check-ups are important to monitor and ensure proper growth and development; your vet can provide personalized feeding recommendations based on your puppy’s individual needs. Always provide fresh water alongside hard food in a puppy-safe bowl. Proper hydration is crucial for digestion and overall health.

Keep an eye on the puppy’s stool and overall health during the transition. Loose stools or vomiting can indicate the change is too abrupt and you may need to slow down the transition process. If you notice persistent digestive issues, consult your veterinarian. Puppies can decline quickly and may require medical intervention to prevent disastrous outcomes.

By 8 weeks of age, puppies should be fully weaned and completely transitioned to solid food. This is typically when most puppies are also ready to go to their new homes, so most new owners do not have to worry about the messy transition period during weaning. Having a puppy comfortable eating solids is vital for their continued growth and development, so be sure to thank your breeder, fosterer, or shelter for helping to get your new puppy through this important transitionary stage.

How to Treat Limping Dog at Home

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Treating a limping dog at home can be effective for minor injuries like a sprain.
If your dog was fine but comes in with a sore leg, you can begin treatment at home by first trying to localize where he is hurt. Credit: CriDam | Getty Images

Your dogs were out in the yard, and you call them in. One is limping on her front leg. It’s Saturday night, and you’d like to avoid a visit to the emergency clinic. Luckily, the odds are in your favor. Your dog’s pain may be from something simple, like a sprained front paw.

Usually, acute (sudden onset) lameness is a minor problem. Toe injuries on your dog’s paw are especially common.

What to Do for a Sore Dog at Home

Start by calmly examining your dog’s good leg. Yes, the good one. You know that leg doesn’t hurt, which gives you a comparison for when you get to the injured leg. If your dog is not comfortable bearing weight on the injured leg, have her lie down. Once the sound leg is examined, move on to examine the sore leg.

Carefully palpate the leg, gently flexing and extending each joint. A sprained toe or paw usually results in a “yipe” from your dog. A few dogs might snap, so be careful, while a stoic dog may simply change her breathing.

Check each toe carefully and feel between the toes and between the paw pads. Look at the paw pads for cuts and scrapes. Check to be sure nothing is stuck in the pad. Make sure the dog doesn’t have a broken or cracked nail, which can be very painful.

As you go up the leg, feel for warmth and swelling. Remember, you have a good leg to compare to, so use it! Follow the same procedure if it is a back leg that is lame and sore.

If there is a wound, flush that out thoroughly with clean water. Once clean, you can apply some antibiotic ointment (yes, you can use the family’s generic triple antibiotic ointment on your dog). If it is a large wound that might require sutures, won’t stop bleeding, or it is from a wild animal, you need to call your veterinarian. Antibiotics and possibly a rabies booster shot may be in order. Note: Be very careful if the wound may be due to a tangle with a wild animal. Contact with saliva from an infected animal can infect you with rabies.

Home Treatment for Sore Dog Leg

In most cases, the dog has a pulled muscle. My immediate home treatment is to run a cold hose over the injured leg for five minutes. You must time the five minutes, however, because after 30 seconds or so, it feels like an hour! If you have a helper, one of you can hold your dog’s head while the other hoses the leg.

If it is winter or you don’t have a hose available, put your dog in the shower or bathtub and use a handheld shower head. If no good options are available, place a cold compress on the area where you feel any resistance from your dog. You can use a bag of frozen veggies or put ice in a plastic bag. Keep it there until the area feels cold (maybe five minutes or so). You can always repeat the treatment later.

I prefer running water, if possible, because it massages the leg as it runs down and it stays cold. I repeat the cold-water treatment in eight to 12 hours. In my experience, about 90% acute lamenesses are better by the next morning. That said, even if the dog seems 100% better, restrict exercise for a few days. Call your veterinarian if you feel an anti-inflammatory or pain medication is warranted.

Broken Bones

None of the advice above applies if your dog has a broken leg. In that case, you need to head directly to your veterinarian or an emergency clinic. Keep your dog as quiet as possible. If you face a long drive, you may try to gently splint the leg with rolled up newspapers or magazines around the leg and taped together. The inner cardboard roll from paper towels or wrapping paper can also work. In most cases, you are best off simply confining the dog on soft bedding and hustling to the clinic.

A Law to Help With Veterinary Fees

By
Cindy Foley
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11
New bills would help with affording veterinary procedures and care.
Advances in veterinary technology have helped extend our dogs’ lives, but it isn’t inexpensive. The PAWS Act is a big step in the right direction. Credit: Mr. Vito | Getty Images

If you think veterinary fees have gone up recently, you’re correct. The Bureau of Labor Statistics shows pet services have risen 60% over the last 10 years—and over 7% in just the last year. Why? Guesses range from corporate greed to higher costs for more advanced technology. (I didn’t read any statistics that any individual veterinarians are focusing more on money than care; for most, their hands are tied, and it breaks their hearts to see clients leave with a sick pet because of cost.)

So, while corporations have the right to grow, expand, and set prices they think people will pay, our alternatives to fight back are limited. The options include:

  • Seek out privately owned veterinary clinics, which include around half of clinics nationwide. They may offer basic services at less than their corporate competitors. The downside is big, however: You may need to leave your favorite veterinarian and/or drive a distance.
  • Buy insurance for your dog—not just accident coverage—but real health coverage for the pricey things, like surgeries and many diagnostics. My dogs have pet insurance. When one dog needed emergency surgery, what the insurer paid totaled more than every premium I had paid! The outdated “establish a savings account for your pet expenses” advice pales when you’re faced with a surgery estimate of $7,500. And, God forbid, you’re told that your dog has cancer, but he can be cured. $15,000, please.
  • And here’s the biggie: Support a new bill proposed by two congresswomen that will amend IRS rules on the use of HSAs and FSAs to include pet expenses up to $1,000. They’re asking that benefits for verified service animals would be limitless.

Congresswomen Deborah Ross of North Carolina and Claudia Tenney of New York introduced the People and Animals Well-being (PAW) Act on September 10. The bill wants to “expand eligibility to include veterinary care expenses under tax-advantaged health care spending accounts, specifically Health Savings Accounts (HSAs) and Flexible Spending Accounts (FSAs). Additionally, the legislation supports veterans and people living with disabilities by imposing no limit on veterinary care expenses for service animals and by ensuring that the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) relies on an up-to-date federal definition of ‘service animal’ for HSA and FSA expenses, which includes animals trained to assist with both physical and mental disabilities,” says Ross.

“Our pets and service animals are cherished members of our families, and it’s essential that owners have the ability to pay for quality care. The PAW Act offers greater flexibility to pet owners by allowing them to use HSAs and FSAs for pet care expenses,” says Tenney.

No, this bill isn’t perfect and $1,000 isn’t a lot, but it will help. Our pets are part of our family.

With so many people struggling just to feed and care for their children, shelters are overflowing with homeless pets with heartbreaking stories. If this bill keeps just one dog in his forever home, I think it’s worth it. Tell your local representatives that this bill needs to be supported and passed.

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