Hot concrete and blacktop can injure your dog’s paw pads. Try to stick with shaded routes, preferably in the morning or evening when it’s cooler. Credit: Jessica Peterson | Getty Images
Dog walks are the highlight of the day for most dogs. But what about when it’s hot and humid, with the sun beating down on that black asphalt? How do you know if it’s safe to walk your pup then?
Learn to identify the temperature of the area where you want/need to walk. Many experts recommend the “7-second rule.” Place your hand on the pavement/asphalt/surface for 7 seconds. If it’s too hot for you at that time frame or before you even reach 7 seconds, it’s too hot for your dog without protection.
While we find the 7-second rule to be the simplest, if you prefer, you can also use a digital infrared thermometer or consult the chart from the Extension at University of Georgia that lists air temperature and how it affects grass temperature, asphalt temperature, and more. For example, according to the chart, at 2 p.m., on a 91-degree day, the asphalt is 140 degrees. That’s too hot for your dog’s paws. This is your most basic and simplest dog walking temperature chart.
With the information at hand, you can best determine if surfaces like blacktop are too hot for your bare paw dog to walk over.
Summer Dog Walks Are Critical
Walks are important mental enrichment for dogs. It would be a sad thing for dogs to miss them simply because it’s hot outside. Learning how to do this safely is of utmost importance to both the dogs and humans in their lives.
Dog walks don’t always have to be high activity. They just need to be fun for your dog! If you can drive your dogs to a wooded area that offers an abundance of shade and sniffing opportunities, do this.
Bring plenty of water and a bowl for your dog to drink from. Walk slowly and simply allow sniffing and pottying without a goal of getting somewhere. Be mindful of how far away from your vehicle you are walking and allow for the energy needed to get back there safely.
If possible, aim for dirt/grass/mossy terrain versus asphalt and concrete. Know your dog’s limits and breathing abilities and consider their age/overall health/physical fitness levels as well as their color. Dark dogs get hotter faster as do floofy dogs. Double that for a dark floofy dog. Brachycephalic dogs do have breathing handicaps that are even worse when it’s hot.
Schedule Your Dog Walks to Avoid Heat
If you must walk in your own neighborhood that consists of primarily concrete or asphalt surfaces, do the longer walks early in the morning or later at night when it’s a bit cooler.
Make additional potty breaks short and purposeful. Invest in a paw protectant like Musher’s Secret, a highly recommended choice. This not only protects paw pads from ice/cold/salt in the winter, but it also protects from heat in the summer. Booties are also an option if your dog will wear them, but most dogs prefer the balm.
Take fresh water and go slowly and stick to grass when you can. The same rules as above apply. Keep it short with the goal of sniffing and pottying.
Provide extra indoor mental enrichment to make up for shorter walks. Examples can include snuffle mats, lick mats, puzzle toys, search games, and training time.
Tips to Make Hot-Day Dog Walks Safer
When it’s hot, do not take lengthy walks or runs. It doesn’t matter whether you can handle this heat, your dog cannot.
Take extra care with brachycephalic breeds like Pugs and Frenchies. These dogs cannot breathe normally. Don’t place them in danger.
Never leave dogs in your yard unattended in overly warm temperatures for longer than a very short time. Make sure that there is adequate shade available as well as fresh water and even a doggy pool if your dog enjoys such.
Check on them frequently, meaning every few minutes in some cases. It doesn’t take long for a heat-related issue to surface.
And, of course, never leave your dog in a vehicle in hot and humid temperatures for even a literal minute, even with AC on. In high-humidity temperatures, the AC and the car will be less reliable.
For most dogs, a slicker brush is an all-around favorite for keeping hair from tangling and developing mats. Choose the right size for your dog.
Credit: Connect Images | Getty Images
An abundance of grooming tools flood the market for dogs who battle hair mats. I urge you to do your due diligence if you prefer to handle much of your dog’s grooming yourself. All tools are not right for all dogs, making research and listening to user reviews very important. Also important, as you will see here, is keeping up with mats and grooming.
I have an Ovcharka (also known as a Caucasian Shepherd Dog) and a Chow Chow. These dogs are about as floofy as it gets. The same rake that I used with my previous Ovcharka is the one that I prefer with my current Ovcharka. Oddly though, the super expensive Chris Christenson slicker brush that was gifted to me for my previous cream Chow Chow does not work well for my current red Chow Chow.
My cream Chow Chow had cotton-candy texture fur that was thick but fine. That brush worked great with her almost delicate coat. My red Chow Chow has a very thick coarser coat that is better dealt with by the same rake that I use with my Ovcharkas. Dog coats can be very different, even within breeds.
Removing Mats From Dog Hair
Mats are painful for dogs and can irritate and pull their skin if left in. I prefer to finger-comb mats out when they are just starting, especially in the floofy parts and the back of the legs. Neck mats can often be minimized by simply keeping up with the rake several times a week to remove the excess.
A light touch is important to a low-stress grooming experience. If a mat is too difficult to remove easily without stressing the dog, I cut them out with my hair cutting scissors (place a human comb between the dog’s skin and the scissors to avoid cutting the dog’s skin when removing a mat with scissors). Of course, try to trim evenly. They don’t care if they look snappy, but their mom does!
Rakes: I use primarily rakes with my dogs. For shorter-haired dogs, Furminators work fine, but they seem to cause too much pulling in my longer-coated dogs. An undercoat rake removes fur more deeply but needs a light touch to not rip out fur harshly.
Slicker brushes: Among the long-haired-dog parents I polled on this subject, slicker brushes were favorites.
Deshedding blades: These tools can work with thicker coats. The Zoom Groom is a favorite for silker coated smaller dogs.
Dematting combs: A trusted colleague of mine recommends the Raw Paws dematting comb for her dogs. A regular dog comb can work just fine as well.
Clippers: There are no best dog clippers for removing mats. Leave that tool to the professionals.
Preventing Mats in Dogs
Remembering to demat regularly—at least once or twice weekly—and brush around the ears and tails, preferably daily. This can go a long way toward preventing mats. Remember that mats can form wherever there is hair, including on the inside of back legs or in the elbow area. There are spray detanglers for after baths, but nothing beats proper grooming maintenance.
Mats can become painful, especially when they get large, so use patience when removing the mat. It’s important to minimize potential stress on your dog. And keep up with regular grooming, there’s no better mat prevention technique.
Administered by a vet, Adequan is given to dogs to help manage osteoarthritis, which is common in senior dogs. Credit: Mariah Harper | Getty Images
Adequan is an injectable medication for the treatment of osteoarthritis in dogs. It is a disease-modifying osteoarthritis drug (DMOAD), meaning it can reverse some of the damage that occurs in arthritic joints.
Adequan contains polysulfated glycosaminoglycan (PSGAG), which has been shown to inhibit catabolic enzymes that contribute to the destruction of cartilage in arthritic joints. PSGAG has also been shown to stimulate the production of anabolic enzymes. Anabolic enzymes promote cartilage repair and enhance the quality of synovial fluid in arthritic joints.
So, what exactly does this mean for dogs suffering from osteoarthritis? Let’s take a look at the basic structure of joints to get a better understanding of how Adequan works.
Understanding Canine Joint Structure and Osteoarthritis
A joint is the junction of two or more bones that allows movement, such as the back-and-forth movement of the knee. The ends of the bones are capped with a smooth, glistening substance called cartilage. Think about the last time you ate a chicken wing (or watched someone else eat a chicken wing, if you don’t eat meat). That smooth white cap on the end of the chicken wing bone is cartilage.
Cartilage protects the ends of the bones from damage and provides a smooth surface for movement of the joint. The ends of the bones are connected by ligaments—strong, fibrous bands of tissue that keep the joint aligned and prevent it from moving in inappropriate ways.
The joint is surrounded by an envelope of fibrous tissue called a joint capsule. The joint capsule creates a sealed space around the joint which is filled with synovial fluid. Synovial fluid is produced by cells that line the inside of the joint capsule. It is viscous (thick) so that it can provide shock absorption within the joint and lubricates the joint to keep everything moving smoothly.
Cartilage requires nutrition and oxygen to perform its functions. Blood is the primary source of oxygen and nutrients in the body. Cartilage does not contain any blood vessels and therefore has no direct source of nutrition and oxygen. It can obtain some of these vital ingredients from blood vessels in the ends of the bones the cartilage covers. However, most of its nutritional needs are met by absorbing oxygen and nutrients from synovial fluid within the joint.
Joints affected by osteoarthritis experience inflammation and degradation of cartilage. Inflamed cartilage releases catabolic enzymes which cause further degradation of the damaged cartilage. This turns into a vicious cycle of inflammation and degradation that makes cartilage thin and brittle.
Bones that are capped by thin and brittle cartilage do not have the same protection as those covered by thick, healthy cartilage. Bones that do not have adequate protection within joints become damaged and painful. Adequan slows the progression of osteoarthritis and improves joint health.
How Adequan Works
Adequan inhibits the production of catabolic enzymes in inflamed joint cartilage. Catabolic enzymes destroy molecules that are necessary for maintaining healthy joints. These molecules include:
Proteoglycan—an important building block of cartilage.
Collagen—this structural protein is the basis for cartilage, ligaments, and tendons.
Hyaluronic acid—a lubricant in synovial fluid.
Adequan also enhances the activity of anabolic enzymes inside joints. Anabolic enzymes stimulate production of collagen, proteoglycans, and hyaluronic acid. These are necessary to repair damaged cartilage and keep synovial fluid happy and healthy. Adequan has also been shown to reduce inflammation in arthritic joints.
Treating a Dog with Adequan
Adequan can be an effective part of a multi-modal therapeutic plan for the treatment of osteoarthritis in dogs. It is administered by intramuscular injection and, once injected, it moves from the muscle into the bloodstream. Then it passes from the bloodstream into each joint’s synovial fluid. Joint cartilage absorbs Adequan from the synovial fluid.
Adequan is given twice a week for four weeks for a total of eight doses. Peak concentration of Adequan in the bloodstream is achieved about 20 to 40 minutes following intramuscular injection. It takes about two days for Adequan to reach peak concentration in synovial fluid. Adequan persists at peak concentration in the joints for an additional three days.
The concentration of Adequan in synovial fluid and cartilage will be higher than that found in the bloodstream once the series of injections has been completed. Cartilage damaged by osteoarthritis will take up more Adequan than joints unaffected by osteoarthritis.
Adequan is only indicated for the treatment of non-infectious arthritis and degenerative joint disease. It is not for use in dogs with septic or infectious arthritis.
Side Effects of Adequan
The most common side effect of Adequan is pain at the injection site. Other side effects are transient and include vomiting, diarrhea, and decreased appetite. These side effects typically resolve quickly and without intervention.
Adequan shares structural similarities with a compound called heparin. Heparin is an anticoagulant that is used to prevent formation of clots in the bloodstream. Abnormal bleeding in the first 12 hours after administration of Adequan is rare but has been reported. Adequan should be used with caution in dogs that have a bleeding disorder.
Adequan for Dogs: Cost and Dosage
Adequan is purchased by the vial and is dosed by a dog’s weight. Bigger dogs require a larger Adequan dose than smaller dogs. Therefore, it costs more to treat a bigger dog with Adequan.
Adequan is the only FDA-approved DMOAD available in the United States. Cartrophen is a DMOAD that is available in other parts of the world, including Canada, Australia, and Europe. Do not confuse Cartrophen with the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) called carprofen (also known by the brand name Rimadyl).
We trail-tested six dog water bottles to determine which were the best for hiking hydration. Credit: Jae Thomas
You need to stay hydrated while hiking, and so does your dog! Giving your dog plenty of water while hitting the trails will ensure they stay cool and avoid heatstroke, especially in the hot summer months. That’s where portable dog water bottles come in. A dedicated dog water bottle will make it easy to carry your pup’s water and make it easier to offer them a drink more frequently.
We tested six different dog water bottles, including ones that had collapsible bowls attached, soft-sided bottles that your dog can carry in a dog hiking backpack, and options with fun features like a detachable treat compartment. Read on for our top picks:
Traits We Want In a Dog Water Bottle for Hiking
Portability: The best dog water bottles for hiking should be portable enough to throw in a hiking backpack (or even a belt bag/treat pouch), but big enough to carry an adequate amount of water. The typical rule of thumb is to carry eight ounces of water per dog for every hour spent hiking. For one dog, a 16-ounce water bottle is a good starting point if you’re planning on hiking for 1-2 hours.
It’s nice to have a carabiner clip on a dog water bottle as well, so you can easily clip it to a hiking backpack while adventuring with your pup.
Leak-proof design: If you’re going to carry your dog water bottle in a backpack or fanny pack, a leak proof design is paramount. We tested all the bottles on this list for leak-proofness and noted any that were prone to spilling.
Extra features: Extra features like an attached bowl are helpful if you don’t want to carry a separate travel bowl. Water bottles with attached bowls also typically suck up any unused water back into the bottle, so you don’t waste any
Easy cleaning: If easy cleaning is a must, opt for a dog water bottle that can be cleaned in the dishwasher. This will likely limit you to hard-sided bottles, as the ultra-portable soft-sided options are usually hand wash only.
This squeeze-style bottle has an attached silicone bowl and a handy lock on the outside of the bowl. However, it didn’t always drain fully during testing.
For backpacking or longer day hikes, this soft-sided bottle from Ruffwear is a good option. It carries a full liter of water, and even fits into dog hiking backpacks, so your dog can carry their own water.
For short hikes or park walks, this lightweight bottle is super packable and even fits in most fanny pack style dog treat pouches. Just remember to bring a separate collapsible dog bowl.
24-ounce bottle, 8-ounce treat compartment, 13-ounce silicone cup
Though it’s a bit too bulky for hiking, this insulated bottle is a great pick for car travel and includes a separate treat compartment and a silicone bowl.
My Collie loved drinking out of this bottle. Multiple times while hiking, I offered her a bowl of water or a drink out of the Flip Dog Bottle, and every time, she chose the Flip Dog bottle. I think she even drank out of this bottle when she wasn’t thirsty, just because she liked it that much.
This squeeze bottle has a silicone bowl attached to the top that flips up for use and down for travel. When you squeeze the bottle, the bowl fills with water, then you can hold it in front of your dog to drink. Once they’re done, any leftover water drains back into the bottle when you stop squeezing it. If you don’t want to keep squeezing the bottle as your dog drinks, you can also lock it, so the water doesn’t suck back down into the bottle. The lock also means water can’t squeeze out of the bottle by itself when not in use. In addition, the bottle comes with a convenient carabiner clip that’s easy to clip onto backpacks, bags, or dog treat pouches.
This bottle is easy to use and didn’t leak at all during testing, even when I took it with me on a weekend trip and tossed it in multiple bags over three days. My only qualm with it is that if you want to lock the amount of water in the bowl, you have to stick your fingers into the water to turn the lock. I’d much prefer it if the lock was outside of the bowl, but my dogs didn’t mind drinking while I held the bottle, so I rarely had to use this feature.
If your dog is shy about drinking, skip the squeeze-style water bottles and opt for a normal travel bottle and a collapsible bowl so they can have a little extra space while they sip.
Best Budget Dog Water Bottle for Hiking: LESOTC Outdoor Dog Water Bottle Dispenser
While not our top pick overall, the LESOTC Outdoor Dog Water Bottle is a solid option for dog owners on a budget. Credit: Jae Thomas
If you’re not sure if your dog will drink out of a handheld water bottle with a bowl attached and you don’t want to invest as much money, the LESOTC Outdoor Dog Water Bottle is worth a look. It’s often priced between $12 and $14 on sale, so trying it out won’t cost much.
This bottle is a squeeze style with an attached, flippable bowl, similar to the Springer Pets Flip bottle. I liked the locking mechanism on this LESOTC bottle better than the Springer Pets one, simply because it’s completely outside the bowl, so you don’t have to stick your fingers in the water to lock it.
However, this bottle was kept out of the winning spot because the water didn’t always drain back into the bottle if my dog didn’t drink all of it. That left me having to dump out a little bit of water occasionally, somewhat defeating the purpose of the squeeze design. With that being said, this bottle is reasonably priced, has a nice big silicone bowl attached to the top, and is easy to squeeze, so folks on a budget should consider it if they don’t mind having to dump a sip or two of water out when their dog is done drinking.
Best Dog Water Bottle for Backpacking: Ruffwear 1L Collapsible Water Bottle
Designed to fit in most running belt pockets, the Ruffwear Trail Runner Soft Flask is a great choice for short runs or hikes. Credit: Jae Thomas
If you’re planning an overnight backpacking trip (or a long day hike) with your dog, the Ruffwear 1L Collapsible Water Bottle is a good pick. The larger capacity ensures you have enough water for multiple hours of hiking and the design fits perfectly in a dog backpacking pack.
I use this water bottle for my dogs with the Ruffwear Approach Dog Backpack, and it fits perfectly in a side pouch. The soft-sided design is super portable and doesn’t add much weight or bulk. When it’s empty, it’s even more portable, and can be rolled up to save space.
This bottle does require carrying an additional travel bowl, or else you risk wasting a lot of water by letting your dog drink directly from the stream. It’s nice to use on day hikes though, since you and your dog can both use the same water (bottles with included bowls suck up your dog’s backwash after they’re done drinking—not great for sharing).
Like human water reservoirs, the Ruffwear 1L Collapsible Water Bottle can only be hand washed and needs a little bit of extra care to dry fully before storing it. Ruffwear recommends using chopsticks to hold it up while drying, then inflating it and putting it upside down to get any excess water out after washing.
Most Portable Dog Water Bottle: Ruffwear Trail Runner Soft Flask
It’s a bit on the heavy side, but the Frisco Water Bottle is a good option if you’re looking for something that can carry both treats and water. Credit: Jae Thomas
Frequent runners and hikers know about Hydrapak bottles, so they’ll be thrilled to hear that the Ruffwear Trail Runner Soft Flask is the result of a partnership with the hydration brand. The soft-sided design is super portable, and while it’s meant to fit in running belt pockets for running with your dog, it also fits in fanny-pack style treat pouches, making it a great option to bring along for walks where you don’t want to carry a backpack.
At a little over 12 ounces, this bottle is best suited for short runs, walks, and hikes. Anything longer will likely require you bring more water for your dog. I use this bottle for park walks since it’s so packable—but I always have to remember to bring an extra travel bowl with me for my dogs to drink out of.
Similar to the other soft-sided bottle on this list, the Ruffwear Soft Flask can’t be put in the dishwasher. You’ll need to hand wash it, stand it up to dry, and inflate it to get rid of any lingering moisture before storing it.
The Wilderdog Plant Based Water Bottle is a light-weight, eco-friendly choice that fits well in most bike bottle cages and running belt bottle compartments. Credit: Jae Thomas
For frequent car rides or longer travel, the Frisco Water Bottle does it all. It features a 24-ounce water bottle, an 8-ounce treat compartment, and a 13-ounce silicone cup that acts as a water bowl.
This bottle is primarily metal and is similar in weight to a Hydroflask or other human metal water bottle. For this reason, I found it too heavy for hiking in most cases. It has a carabiner on the back of it to hook onto a backpack, but during testing, the weight caused my hiking pack to sag more than I liked. It’s also a little bit too inconvenient to unscrew the bottom treat container and grab snacks for your dog while walking.
Instead, this bottle is a good pick for folks who go on longer car rides with their dogs. Whether you go on frequent cross-country road trips or drive multiple hours to find a good dog-friendly camping or hiking spot, this bottle is a great car companion. The silicone cup attachment acts as a separate bowl for dogs who don’t like drinking out of a handheld bottle and the treat compartment is great for refilling an empty treat pouch before you hit the trails.
The water section of this bottle is insulated, so you can fill it with cold or ice water and it’ll actually stay cold in the summer heat. I traveled with this bottle in a bag in the back of my car on a weekend road trip and it didn’t leak at all. It’s also dishwasher-safe for easy cleaning.
Best Eco-Friendly Dog Water Bottle: Wilderdog Plant Based Water Bottle
The hard-sided, eco-friendly Wilderdog Plant Based Water Bottle is made out of corn and is a good size for most water bottle pouches on backpacks. It also fits most bike bottle cages and running belt bottle compartments, so if you regularly bike, bikejor, or do canicross with your dog, this is a good option. The rigid design makes it much better suited for bottle compartments than its soft-sided counterparts.
I’m a big fan of the Wilderdog Mega Hip Pack for hiking, and this bottle fits perfectly in the side water bottle pouches of the pack. The bottle itself is super lightweight, so I’d be okay with carrying two at a time for longer hikes.
The downside of this bottle is that, aside from being made of eco-friendly material, it’s not much different than a typical water bottle with a sport cap. If the corn material isn’t a draw for you, I’m sure you can find a similarly sized water bottle made for humans to use for your dog.
Nystagmus or rapid eye movement in older dogs often just comes down to supportive care, ensuring he’s safe, comfortable, and eats and drinks.
Credit: UK Mal | Getty Images
If your dog’s eyes are rapidly moving, seeming uncontrolled, your dog may be suffering from nystagmus. It’s usually part of vestibular disease, which is common in older dogs. Your dog may be walking in circles with his head tilted, in addition to the rapid eye movement. He also may have ataxia, which is indicated by a wobbly, unbalanced gait.
The affected dog’s eyes can move rapidly back and forth (horizontal nystagmus), up and down (vertical nystagmus), or even in a circular motion (rotary nystagmus). The movement is involuntary and usually occurs in a steady rhythm. While a mix of movements are possible, most often the eyes move to one side then back.
When anything messes with the vestibular system, which is responsible for the dog’s balance, the dog’s eyes are potentially affected too. Normally, when your dog moves his head, his eyes adjust to the movement. With nystagmus, the eyes move even when the dog’s head is still. Not surprisingly, the dog usually becomes nauseous.
What Causes Nystagmus in Dogs?
The vestibular system is a part of the brain and includes middle and inner ear components. Injuries or infections of the deep ear structures may cause nystagmus. Sometimes something as simple as a thorough ear cleaning at the vet clinic may cause a short bout of nystagmus. Brain lesions such as encephalitis, certain viral infections, and cancers may cause nystagmus as well.
Old dog vestibular disease is generally of unknown cause but appears in senior dogs and usually resolves, or almost completely resolves, in a few days to a week or two. The nystagmus may stop before the head tilt and circling signs subside.
How Do You Treat Nystagmus in a Dog?
There are no “magic eye drops” for this condition. The goals are two-pronged: You want to identify the cause, if possible, and treat it or provide supportive care.
Diagnostics usually start with a thorough physical examination, including looking into the ears. A neurologic exam could provide information about the overall neurological health of your dog. X-rays, bloodwork, and possibly even an MRI may be indicated in some cases. With a senior dog, your veterinarian may suggest that diagnostics can wait while you see if your dog responds on his own.
Treating Nystagmus in Dogs
Supportive care generally requires you keep your dog safe. He can’t move around safely with this condition. Block off steps, go back to leash walks instead of free yard time. Crate him when you are not around.
Your dog will be nauseous, so your veterinarian may prescribe some anti-nausea medications. It is important that your dog eats and drinks. You may need to hand feed and resort to special treats to get him to eat. You can hold the bowls for him if that helps. If he does not drink, the veterinary staff can show you how to give subcutaneous fluids at home.
Most dogs show improvement in 24 to 72 hours. Complete recovery may take two to three weeks. In most dogs, nystagmus will clear first, then the head tilt and circling will end.
With consistent training and rewards, your dog will learn to read your hand’s sign language and understand what you are asking them to do.
Credit: Jarih | Getty Images
Do you use hand signals to communicate with your dog? You should! When dogs know both hand signals and verbal cues, they are far more likely to respond to the hand signal than a verbal cue. A study published in Animal Cognition shows that “while dogs respond to both gestural and verbal requests, gestures are more salient than words.”
Yes, dogs are tuned in with body language, both of each other and of humans, so training hand signals is an important part of training. They can sense the intent of action from body language displayed by us and therefore understand us more clearly. Deaf dogs, of course, are dependent on those hand cues, and teaching them now can help if your dog loses hearing function as they age.
Dogs Read Body Language First
When I taught group classes, I would explain to my students that if they said one thing to their dogs with their voice and another thing with a hand signal, their dogs would be far more likely to respond to the hand signal than the verbal cue. I have always taught a hand signal for some things before I ever get to the verbal equivalent.
An example of that is teaching a sit or a down cue. My dogs have always learned the hand signal first. I eventually add a verbal cue, simply because I feel like I should but usually months later. What I personally use more frequently are hand signals.
If you’ve already taught basic cues using verbals like sit, wait, stay, and down, you can still add hand signals. Just start doing it. You will be surprised at how quickly your dog understands what you mean. If your starting your training from scratch, this article by noted trainer Kathy Callahan can help you get started, using hand signals first, then adding verbals.
Hand Signals to Teach Your Dog
Dogs learned to read our body language to determine our intent, especially movement and action. While you can use whatever hand signal is comfortable for you, examples of the hand signals that I teach my own dogs include:
Sit: Fist made with thumb on top of closed fingers presented with knuckles facing the dog and fingers on the upside. You can teach it this way with a treat inside of your hand initially and the hand signal still looks the same sans treat inside. When actionable, it resembles a hand pulling a zipper up.
Down: Fist made the same way as above but fingers/thumb facing down and knuckles facing up. Again, treat can be inside initially and easily relinquished with a proper down completed by simply opening the hand after flipping it up. This hand signal also looks the same sans treat.
Touch: The usual way, flat palm, fingers tightly closed, palm up initially started literally right in front of the nose but underneath a bit to not look threatening.
Chin Rest: Flat palm, fingers tightly closed, offered level under/near the chin but sideways positioned to the dog’s head, underneath the chin.
Wait: Flat palm, fingers tightly closed, positioned with the fingers pointing to the sky with a brief push forward when initially offered.
Paw: Mirror image hand offered palm up slightly cupped just in front of either front leg.
By Me: Slightly extended arm with hand horizontally aligned, thumb up, with a waving motion in my direction aimed near my chest area. This is for a busier environment when on leash to keep my dog close.
Can I Have That? (my name for Drop It): Palm up, fingers closed, positioned with fingers slightly cupped aimed towards the dog’s mouth just in front of such.
Here Here (means come inside the house or come closer to me, period): Standing sideways to the dogs on my porch, using either arm extended while making a welcoming motion with my hand towards the door or myself.
Stand: When the dog is seated, I use a flat palmed aimed down horizontally aligned hand positioned sideways to their nose and move the hand away from their nose to cue a stand.
Spin: Primary finger pointing with thumb extended as well, other fingers closed, while making a circular spinning motion. One dog is a leftie, so his hand signal is reversed in position.
All Done: Jazz hands to indicate we are done training for the moment, no more treats.
Left and Right Turns: Pointing in the direction to go with arm extended. I used to hike, and trail run with multiple dogs on leash, so they were trained to look to me for which way we were heading when reaching a trail split. I am no longer that energetic but maybe you are?
I asked some fellow trainers which hand signals they use with their own dogs and was rewarded with these gems from Denise O’Moore, a trainer in Ireland:
Distance Recall: Closed fist in the air.
Go Play: Open hand.
Come and Sit: Open hand to the side.
Fast Distance Recall: Touching her bag means there is a toy so come at record speeds please.
Hand signals are a sign language for dogs. They are such a clearer communication method than verbal cues. There are so many things that can be more easily conveyed to dogs with hand signals and body language than with verbal cues. Dogs are experts in body language. Subtle differences in how you hold your hand when signaling to your dog what you want from them can make a huge difference. Being precise and consistent with your communication makes for less misunderstandings. Adding dog training hand signals to your repertoire with your dogs can only improve your mutual understanding so try it today.
I took this photo on the day I first met Leroy at my local shelter in 2011. I picked him out as one of two dogs at my local shelter I wanted Stephen and his partner to meet and potentially adopt; they were looking for a small but not tiny dog. His fun-loving but compliant demeanor was on display from our first meeting. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
In the past few days, I’ve exchanged dozens of texts and phone calls and one FaceTime session with a long-time friend regarding his dog Leroy. Stephen and his partner adopted Leroy from my local shelter in September 2011—and in the 13½ years since, we’ve probably exchanged hundreds of texts and emails and phone calls about the happy, clever little dog.
Leroy was the first dog Stephen had ever owned, and was the first dog his partner had owned as an adult, and they often had questions about the joyful, willful little mixed-breed dog! As Stephen’s long-time friend and adoption facilitator (I selected Leroy, who was then an estimated 7 to 9 months old, as a good candidate for my friends following a disastrous adoption failure from another shelter), I was asked for advice regarding Leroy’s diet, training and behavior, boarding/pet sitting, and, starting in Leroy’s middle age, advice about his health issues.
Stephen and his partner made a sizeable donation to my local shelter after adopting Leroy. At the time, a pet supply store chain in their area would have a giant poster made with your dog’s photo when you showed proof of a donation of a certain size to a shelter. Their donation enabled Leroy’s poster to be made and hung in one of the stores—as well as another giant poster for my dog, Otto! Photo by Mark Rogers, for Petfood Express.
Leroy had some intermittent lameness, which eventually resolved with a costly but effective spinal surgery; in the past two years, he started having urinary tract issues, which were eventually traced to cancerous tumors. Stephen and Scott spent a small fortune on chemotherapy and surgery, with the hopes of giving the little dog an estimated four to six more months to live; he made it 15 months before his kidneys failed. Despite having to wear an incontinence garment indoors in the past few months, until just a week ago, Leroy still enjoyed his meals, going for walks with his owners, rolling in the grass at the park, greeting his many friends in dog-friendly stores in his neighborhood, and living his sweet comfortable life with his owners.
But in the past few days, his health took a sudden nosedive. At the veterinary ER, he was put on IV fluids for two days in an attempt to improve suddenly off-the-charts-bad lab results indicating that his kidneys had more or less quit functioning; those values didn’t budge even with rehydration therapy. He stopped eating. Stephen and his partner made the decision to bring Leroy home and make the call to a veterinarian who would euthanize Leroy after they had one more day to spend with him.
I spoke to Stephen several times during Leroy’s last day. Stephen stayed home from work and spent every minute watching the little dog and working to keep him comfortable. He administered subcutaneous fluids, which, in combination with an anti-nausea medication, made Leroy feel good enough to eat some chicken and some baby food. But Leroy mostly slept.
Stephen had second thoughts about having a vet come to euthanize Leroy; with another day or two on IV fluids, might his kidney function improve enough to give him another couple of days or weeks? One of the vets who saw him on his last day at the emergency clinic thought it might. Stephen wanted to know what I thought.
I told him that the decision absolutely sucked, it was awful, and no one could tell him what was the right thing to do. That it’s our responsibility to do our best to make the decision that would spare our friends the most pain, without robbing them of the potential for more good days, and that it’s impossibly difficult to know if you’ve made that calculation accurately. That no matter what, we are likely to feel like we didn’t make the right decision. I shared with him that I am haunted by the idea that I had my beloved Otto euthanized too early, when perhaps he had another good day or two in him; but one of my best friends is haunted by the idea that she had her dog euthanized too late, and the dog had a painful last day and a traumatic last hour. You just have to do what you think is best for your dog.
Stephen asked me to observe Leroy, and we switched our call to a FaceTime video. I teared up when I looked at Leroy’s darling foxy little face, now with a distinguished grey muzzle. His cloudy eyes were open as he lay there; he looked exhausted, near death. But then suddenly he sat up and licked some baby food out of a jar that Stephen offered him, and then walked over to one of his other dog beds and emphatically rearranged the fleece blanket in the bed to his liking before curling up to go back to sleep. It was easy to see that he didn’t feel good, and yet he was still himself.
I told Stephen, “We should be so lucky, to have such a nice last day. He’s home, not in the hospital. You’re home, and Scott will be home soon. Leroy is failing, but given the help from all his meds, he’s not in agony—but that pain is barely being held at bay. If you ask me, it’s time—but you have to make the decision.”
Stephen and his partner kept the appointment with the housecall veterinarian; Leroy passed easily and peacefully. But my friends are still in shock at Leroy’s sudden decline and that they didn’t have more time to weigh the euthanasia decision. I am doing my best to offer them some comfort—but I also know that living with doubts about whether or not you made the right call is par for the course.
Does you ever feel like you did exactly the right thing at the exact right time? How do you cope if you feel you didn’t handle things perfectly?
Chicken and rice will help get digestive issues under control, but it’s not an option for feeding more than a few days.
Credit: Hxyume | Getty Photo
A chicken and rice diet is a common home remedy for dogs experiencing digestive upset, especially diarrhea. The bland combination is typically palatable for dogs and can help provide some nourishment during recovery. But how much chicken and rice should you feed, how long should your dog be fed chicken and rice, is it safe to feed your dog chicken and rice every day, and is there a better alternative? Let’s break it down.
The combination of chicken and white rice is easy on the stomach and provides easily digestible protein and carbohydrates. When your dog has diarrhea, switching to a bland diet gives their digestive system a break from heavier, harder-to-digest ingredients, like fats. The chicken you use should be unseasoned, boneless, skinless chicken breast; the legs, thighs, and skin of chicken all have a higher fat content that can worsen diarrhea and cause further gastrointestinal (GI) upset.
How to Boil Chicken and Rice for Your Dog
When cooking the chicken, boil it until it reaches an internal temperature of at least 165°F (74°C). Do not feed raw chicken, as the bacteria present can worsen your dog’s illness, especially with an already compromised system. The rice should be plain white rice and should not include any butter, oil, or seasoning.
How Much Chicken and Rice to Feed a Dog
When determining how much chicken and rice to feed, a good starting place is about 2% to 3% of your dog’s body weight per day in total food. When feeding a temporary chicken and rice diet, aim for a 2:1 ratio of rice to chicken and split up the daily amount into multiple small meals given throughout the day. You don’t want to overload your dog’s digestive system. For example, a 22-lb. (10 kg) dog should eat around 0.55lbs (250 g) of food daily, which is roughly 165 g of rice and 85 g of chicken.
Our chart on how much chicken and rice to feed your dog breaks everything down for you:
Dog Weight
Total Daily Food
Chicken
Rice
5 kg (11 lbs)
100 – 150 g (0.22 – 0.33lbs)
33 – 50 g
70 – 100 g
10 kg (22 lbs)
200 – 300 g (0.44-0.66lbs)
65 – 100 g
130 – 200 g
15 kg (33 lbs)
300 – 450 g (0.66 – 1lb)
100 – 150 g
200 – 300 g
20 kg (44 lbs)
400 – 600 g (0.88 – 1.32lbs)
130 – 200 g
270 – 400 g
25 kg (55 lbs)
500 – 750 g (1.1 – 1.6lbs)
170 – 250 g
330 – 500 g
30 kg (66 lbs)
600 – 900 g (1.3 – 2lbs)
200 – 300 g
400 – 600 g
35 kg (77 lbs)
700 – 1050 g (1.5 – 2.3lbs)
230 – 350 g
470 – 700 g
40 kg (88 lbs)
800 – 1200 g (1.7 – 2.6lbs)
270 – 400 g
530 – 800 g
You should feed your dog chicken and rice for no longer than two to three days, or until their stool becomes firm and regular. Once diarrhea stops, start reintroducing your dog’s regular food slowly over the next few days by mixing it with the chicken and rice:
Day 1: 75% chicken and rice, 25% regular food
Day 2: 50% chicken and rice, 50% regular food
Day 3: 25% chicken and rice, 75% regular food
Day 4: 100% regular food
If diarrhea continues for longer than three days, or if additional symptoms such as vomiting, lethargy, blood in the stool, or loss of appetite occur, contact your veterinarian.
How Long Should I Feed My Dog Chicken and Rice?
A diet of chicken and rice does not constitute a complete diet for your dog and should not be fed long-term. It lacks essential nutrients and feeding it daily can lead to nutritional deficiencies over time.
For this reason, a better option is available for dogs with upset stomachs that both vets and nutritionists prefer: canned sensitive stomach dog food.
These specialized diets are typically more effective and are nutritionally complete and balanced, ensuring your dog has all the nutrients needed to support your dog’s health during and after their upset stomach resolves without risking nutritional deficiencies.
Canned sensitive stomach dog food recipes typically contain easily digestible proteins, such as chicken, turkey, salmon, or hydrolyzed proteins. This is especially advantageous for dogs that have sensitivities to chicken, as it provides alternative proteins that will not further exacerbate the GI issues. Sensitive stomach formulas also contain low-fat contents that provide the essential fatty acids your dog needs in their diet without causing pancreatic strain, easily digestible carbohydrates like rice, oats, or barley, and soluble fiber to help firm up the stool and promote regular bowel movements. I recommend canned or wet formats over dry, as dogs with diarrhea can typically benefit from the additional hydration.
Sensitive stomach formulas take out the guesswork when it comes to preparing your dog’s meal. Feeding chicken and rice requires boiling and preparing each portion and measuring out the correct ratio for your dog. Even with the best intentions, homemade meals can be inconsistent. Sensitive stomach foods provide consistency and balance and are easy to keep on hand in case your dog suddenly comes down with an upset stomach. This can help make mealtimes easier and take out the guesswork when you are juggling cleanup and care.
When to Switch from Chicken and Rice for Your Dog
Chicken and rice should only be fed for a maximum of two to three days and is not designed for extended feeding. If diarrhea or stomach upset lasts longer, you risk nutrient deficiencies on chicken and rice alone. Sensitive stomach dog foods, however, are safe for extended or even lifelong feeding, especially for dogs with chromic conditional such as inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), sensitive digestive tracts, food allergies, and recurrent pancreatitis.
While chicken and rice can be helpful in a pinch, it is best reserved for very mild cases of diarrhea or vomiting, particularly when your dog is refusing to eat their usual food or needs a gentle, short-term diet. This bland combination is suitable for temporary use—typically no more than 1 to 3 days—to give your dog’s digestive system a break.
However, if your dog’s symptoms persist beyond just a few days, or if they have underlying health conditions, chicken and rice may not provide the complete support they need. In contrast, sensitive stomach dog food is specially formulated to address digestive issues while offering balanced nutrition. It is a more consistent, long-term solution that not only supports your dog’s recovery, but also helps prevent nutritional deficiencies, promotes healthy digestion, and ensures your dog is getting all the essential nutrients they need. Regardless of diet, if your dog’s symptoms persist for more than a few days, worsen, or if your dog stops eating and drinking, be sure to consult your veterinarian.
Caption: A puppy who is properly crate trained will understand they can stay calm when alone and that you’ll be back.
Credit: PongMoji | Getty Images
How do you help a puppy with separation anxiety? Well, note that true separation anxiety in a puppy would be rare. Most puppies suffer from separation distress because they were never trained to be alone or separated from their humans. It’s still traumatizing for both the puppy and the human so properly addressing this is important to move forward successfully without creating true separation anxiety in the future.
Note: If your puppy is suffering from true separation anxiety, which includes destructive behavior like eliminating nearly immediately after being left alone (even if they have just done so before you left) or causing harm to themselves trying to get out of the crate or an enclosed area, then you should speak with either a veterinary behaviorist or a separation anxiety specialist as that is a true mental health emergency.
Puppy Separation Anxiety vs. Distress
Although technically not separation anxiety, separation distress can include whining and crying, perhaps howling but no self-harm or destruction. It can include periodic elimination when left alone but that result in of itself is not specific to just separation anxiety. Panting and drooling as well as paw sweating can be additional signs of separation distress. Pacing is another sign as well as the overall inability to relax when alone.
Training a Puppy to Accept Separation
Helping a puppy to feel safer when left alone is a multi-layered process. The space that the puppy is left in when alone, whether it is a crate or an ex-pen or even a dog-proofed room, should be a space where they regularly spend happy time with you in, such as your kitchen, bedroom, or family room. It should not be a crate in a basement that the puppy only gets placed in when their humans are leaving. That opens the door for anxiety.
Your puppy should have sufficient mental and physical enrichment and exercise prior to an extended period alone. A nice long walk with lots of sniffing (sniffari), as well as interactive play with you and calming enrichment such as a snuffle mat after energizing physical activity will go a long way toward creating a calm stress-free baseline. Your puppy should have been fed recently and allowed sufficient time to eliminate so that need doesn’t create anxiety in him when you are gone. Knowing your puppy’s elimination habits can be very helpful to timing this properly.
Crate training in a positive manner in advance of leaving your puppy alone is the kindest act that you can do for them to have a calmer puppy when they are alone.
Starting by simply leaving your puppy alone when you visit the bathroom can be a good option. Gradually leading up to perhaps showering or doing laundry on another floor can be helpful. Going out the door to grab the mail is among the next steps. I like to add these things into the day as soon as I get a puppy. My current puppy was taught to be alone at the breeders (with other dogs), but when I got him and crated him initially, with my other dog in an ex-pen next to him, he panicked. I added Vetriscience Composure (now called Calm and Confident) at an appropriate dose about 30 minutes before exits and that helped, as did leaving him an easy to empty puppy Kong as well as all the other previous steps that I mentioned.
Some experts will tell you to ignore your puppy when you leave and return instead of acknowledging them. I disagree. I am in the camp that believes you should not do drama over either but still acknowledge that you are saying bye and hi to a family member, just like you would with any other family member. I choose to say, “I’ll be back.” And I name where I am going (work, store).
When I return, I verbally acknowledge my dogs and act happy to see them. I am relaxed and not acting urgently to release them. I think relaxed versus drama is important, especially to drama-prone puppies as mine was when he was younger. I believe ignoring them when leaving and returning unless they are calm creates more neediness.
The bottom line is that being casual about exits and returns as well as providing a good foundation that allows for all possible needs having been met before extended absences will be your magic wand for easier separations.
If you notice your dog obsessively licking or scratching one particular area, keep an eye on things as it may be an indication something is wrong and that constant licking and itching can cause a hot spot.
Credit: Elizabeth Beard | Getty Images
Hot spots, also known as acute moist dermatitis, are a common, painful skin condition in dogs. These raw, inflamed, and sometimes oozing lesions can appear suddenly and worsen quickly if left untreated.
Hot spots are typically the result of an underlying issue that leads a dog to excessively lick, scratch, or chew a particular area, causing irritation and infection. Understanding the causes, treatment options, and preventative measures can help you effectively manage and prevent future hot spots for your dog.
Hot Spots Are Infections
Hot spots are localized areas of inflammation and infection of the skin. They usually present as red, moist, irritated patches that can be painful and prone to rapid enlargement. The affected area may have missing fur, a sticky or crusty texture, and an unpleasant odor due to bacterial infection.
Hot spots develop when a dog persistently licks, chews, or scratches a particular area, causing skin damage and allowing bacteria to thrive. Several underlying factors that can trigger this excessive self-grooming behavior include allergies, external parasites, skin infections, trapped moisture, and underlying pain or stress.
Causes of Hot Spots on Dogs
Hot spots can occur anywhere on a dog’s body, but they commonly occur on the limbs, head, neck, and hips. Causes include:
Environmental allergies. Pollen, dust mites, and mold can trigger an allergic reaction in dogs, causing itchy skin.
Food allergies. Dogs who are sensitive to certain ingredients in their food or treats can lead to inflammation, which then causes excessive scratching, licking and chewing.
Flea-allergy dermatitis occurs in dogs who have a reaction to flea saliva. These dogs can develop intense itching from even a single flea bite, leading to hot spots. Fleas themselves can also cause itching, as can skin mites and ticks. Staying on top of monthly parasite prevention can help minimize the risk of your pet getting fleas or ticks.
Bacterial or fungal skin infections. Skin infections can cause localized irritation that prompts dogs to lick and chew the area, worsening the condition. These infections can be caused by multiple factors, but trapped moisture from swimming, bathing, or humid weather can create a warm, damp environment that is perfect for bacterial and fungal growth.
Matted fur. Tangles of matted fur prevent air circulation and trap dirt and moisture to the skin. Really bad mats can pull on the skin, which leads to sores. Breeds with long hair and breeds with skinfolds should be monitored closely for these infections and kept as dry as possible.
Joint pain or arthritis may cause dogs to lick certain areas as a form of self-soothing.
Stress, boredom, or anxiety can also lead to excessive licking as a coping mechanism.
Treating a Hot Spot on a Dog
Once a hot spot appears, prompt treatment is essential to prevent it from worsening. Follow these steps to treat a hot spot:
Carefully trim the fur from around the affected area to allow for better air circulation. It also makes it easier to clean and treat the wound.
Gently cleanse the area with a mild antiseptic solution such as diluted chlorhexidine or betadine. Avoid using hydrogen peroxide as it can damage healthy cells and slow the healing process.
After cleaning, gently pat the area dry with a clean towel. Keeping the spot dry is crucial for healing.
Consider a topical treatment. A veterinary topical spray, ointment, or medicated cream that contains antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties. Some commonly used treatments include hydrocortisone creams to help reduce itching and irritation and antibiotic ointments to prevent bacterial infections.
If an underlying allergy or irritation is causing excessive scratching, talk to your vet about antihistamines, allergy medications, hypoallergenic diets, or flea treatments. If the hot spot worsens, spreads, or does not improve within a few days, consult your veterinarian. In severe cases, oral antibiotics, anti-inflammatory medications, or prescription-strength topical treatments may be necessary.
Preventing Canine Hot Spots
Preventing hot spots is possible with good hygiene, parasite control, and addressing any underlying issues. Regular grooming through brushing and bathing can remove loose fur and dirt and can prevent mats from forming in the coat.
Be sure to keep your dog as dry as possible, drying them thoroughly after swimming or bathing. A high velocity dryer or hair dryer can be helpful to reach the skin and drive off moisture that a towel cannot.
If your dog suffers from seasonal allergies, consult your vet about allergy medications or specialty diets. You can also supplement your pet’s diet with omega-3 fatty acids to support skin health.
If your pet is licking or chewing due to joint pain, work with your vet to find ways to manage and reduce pain to keep your companion comfortable.
Chew toys, food puzzles, walks, training, and interactive play can all help to manage boredom and stress-induced licking. For anxious dogs, work with your vet to find calming aids or medications to manage anxiety and reduce undesirable stress behaviors.
Hot spots can be frustrating to manage, but with early intervention and proper care, they can be effectively treated and prevented. By identifying the underlying causes, keeping your dog’s skin healthy, and addressing excessive licking and scratching behaviors, you can help your pet stay comfortable and free from recurring hot spots. If in doubt, or if things worsen, consult your veterinarian to ensure the best course of action for your furry friend.
Although no dog cases of bird flu have been reported in the current outbreak, it makes sense to keep your dog away from birds.
Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images
However, dogs can become infected with “H3N8 or H3N2 influenza viruses, but those are different forms than the current outbreak of H5N1,” according to Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine.
Dairy Cattle. Milk cows usually have a mild infection, but it can contaminate their milk.
Human dairy workers have gotten mild cases of this flu virus, primarily as eye infections, from working around infected cows.
Bird flu is commonly fatal in cats. Neurologic signs are generally the first clue that this is more than a standard respiratory infection and sudden death may be the first indication of a truly serious problem. Farm cats have been infected via raw milk, feral and outdoor cats have gotten infected from catching ill birds, and indoor only cats who have eaten raw foods made from infected poultry have died.
Foxes and Mink. In Finland, fur farms have lost large numbers of foxes and mink due to avian flu.
Managing your Dog’s Exposure to Bird Flu
While bird flu tends to run somewhat in cycles, it is spread by migrating birds. Obviously, you can’t put your dog in a bubble to prevent all potential bird exposure.
What you can do is sensible management:
Don’t feed raw milk or dairy products made from raw milk. While the processing to make cheese or yogurt might kill the H5N1 virus, no one knows for sure at this time.
Avoid feeding raw diets that contain poultry. While your dog might not die, he can get sick if the meat is contaminated and his feline buddy could very well die. Practice good food handling techniques if you feed any raw diet. Freezing and freeze drying do not kill the virus
Keep your dog away from dead or ill birds. Don’t frequent parks, ponds or any areas where large flocks of birds congregate. This is especially important in spring and fall when there are large migrations. This includes songbird migrations as well as waterfowl.
Remove bird feeders. This is especially important if there are reports of avian flu in your area. In those situations, consider taking feeders down for a while to discourage birds hanging out in your yard.
No Bird Flu Canine Vaccine
There is no vaccine for avian flu, and your dog’s canine flu vaccination will not provide cross protection. So far, there are no cases where a sick person gave a dog bird flu or vice versa, but the potential is there. The more cases of bird flu occur, the greater the likelihood of mutations that would allow the spread to more species.
Currently, work in the United States on bird flu has been greatly curtailed, but it has been considered a virus possible of causing a pandemic if mutations allow for more spread.
Usually, dogs bark for a reason. It’s up to you to figure out what it may be. Clues may include the time of day, what’s going on outside the house, or strange noises in or around your home.
Credit: Ulkas | Getty Images
A dog’s bark is a natural form of communication, a way to alert us to danger, express excitement, or simply voice their presence. However, excessive barking can become a problem, disrupting neighbors, causing stress for owners, and even leading to housing and legal issues.
This has driven a market for dog-barking deterrents, ranging from simple whistles to more controversial methods. But which solutions are effective, and more importantly, which are humane?
Dog Barking Deterrents: Is Anti-Barking Surgery an Ethical Option?
One controversial measure that often surfaces is anti-barking surgery, also known as debarking or canine devocalization (or ventriculocordectomy). The procedure involves surgically removing or altering the dog’s vocal cords to reduce the volume or eliminate their bark entirely.
According to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), “If behavioral and management interventions have failed to reduce barking, performing the procedure may prevent relinquishment or euthanasia.” However, AVMA points out that “devocalization reduces the noise associated with barking, but not the motivation or behavior. This could result in the impression that the issue has been resolved when the dog’s needs are still not being met.”
The AVMA adds that the surgery also brings “significant risks and complications, including pain, are associated with the surgery. “
The American Animal Hospital Association concurs. “Devocalization for inappropriate and excessive vocalization is often ineffective in achieving the desired results, can present risks to the animal, and can deprive canines of the ability to perform a normal behavior.”
Also, several states outlaw devocalization. According to Michigan State University’s Animal Legal and Historical Center, nontherapeutic devocalization is banned in Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Washington. And that number could increase. “Current trends point to more states banning nontherapeutic procedures. Public perceptions towards procedures like devocalization are changing, with more pet owners opposing the practice, according to the center.
Other Barking Deterrents: Muzzles, Whistles, and Collars
The question of cruelty is central to any discussion of barking deterrents. The answer isn’t a simple yes or no, as it depends on the specific method used and how it’s implemented. Some deterrents are designed to be aversive, meaning they create an unpleasant sensation to discourage barking.
Aversive options include anti-barking collars, citronella collars, ultrasonic devices, and muzzles. “Because these devices punish a normal behavior, we don’t recommend these because of the behavioral side effects,” Kohanski says. “Punishing a normal species behavior isn’t humane.”
According to a report by the National Library of Medicine (NLM), anti-bark collars, as a form of remote punishment to reduce the vocalization of dogs, are capable of delivering different forms of aversive stimuli such electric shocks or high-frequency sounds.
The shocks are triggered by vibrations from the dog’s larynx when the dog barks and punishment is delivered immediately. Also, because punishment delivered by collar and is not connected with the owner, it reduces the likelihood that the dog learns to fear or become aggressive towards its owner.
However, high-intensity shocks can cause skin lesions, chronic stress, and fear and pain responses, according to the NLM. For humane reasons, dog owners are likely to prefer less-punishing solutions to their dogs’ barking behavior. In one study, the NLM reports that dog owners preferred citronella-, or lemon-spray collars, which deliver a spray of citronella when a microphone detects barking, over shock collars, because they perceived them as more humane.
Should You Use a Dog Whistle to Stop Barking? Dog whistles, which emit high-frequency sounds inaudible to humans, are a popular and generally considered humane barking deterrent. The idea is that the sound startles the dog and interrupts its barking. However, Kohanski notes, “It’s easier to use a verbal cue like ‘quiet,’ though, as you don’t have to keep up with the whistle.”
Why Dogs Bark
“Because barking is a normal dog behavior, we want to be careful with how we address unwanted barking,” says Nicole Kohanski, founder, dog behaviorist and trainer at Wiggle Butt Academy in Dallas, Texas. “When we punish normal, natural behaviors, we can get unwanted consequences like escalation, redirection, learned helplessness, or increased fear and anxiety.”
Before exploring deterrents, it’s important to understand why your dog is barking. Is it boredom? Anxiety? Territoriality? Pain due to health issues? Addressing the underlying cause is often the most effective way to curb excessive barking.
“I like to use the metaphor of a baby crying to help pet parents understand,” said Kohanski. “If our child was crying, we would use the communication as a clue to investigate what the baby needs. The same goes for our dogs. Because barking is communication, it’s the same type of signal.”
While it may seem like your noisy pup is just barking for the sake of barking, they always have a reason.
“Knowing that your dog has a reason for barking helps resolve issues with compassion and understanding,” according to Cornell DogWatch. If you address the cause of the barking, you’ll be more successful and reduce your dog’s stress more than by using negative enforcement devices.
Why Do Dogs Bark?
Nicole Kohanski breaks barking reasons into four categories and subcategories:
Communication and Alerting Alarm barking: Reacting to sudden noises or movement (e.g., doorbells, strangers).
Territorial barking: Warning of perceived intruders in their space.
Play barking: Expressing excitement and engagement during play.
Greeting barking: showing excitement when seeing familiar people or dogs.
Emotional Responses
Fear barking: Responding to something scary or unfamiliar.
Frustration barking: Occurs when a dog is restrained from something they want (e.g., leash reactivity).
Separation distress: Barking due to anxiety when left alone.
Attention-seeking barking: Trying to get interaction, food, or play from a person.
Physical and Environmental Factors
Boredom barking: Lack of mental and physical stimulation.
Excess energy barking: A way to release pent-up energy when under-exercised.
Medical-related barking: Pain, sound sensitivity, cognitive decline (especially in senior dogs), or hearing loss.
Learned Behaviors Reinforced barking: The dog has learned that barking gets him what he wants (e.g., attention, food, or opening a door).
Breed tendencies: Some breeds are more vocal due to genetics (e.g., beagles, huskies, shelties).
Finding the Pattern for Barking
It’s helpful to look for patterns. Pay attention to when and where barking occurs. That is, is there a time of day when barking occurs? Maybe it’s an event that your dog monitors like the arrival of the mail or is there a context that results in more barking, such as your grandkids are visiting, says Cornell DogWatch.
If your dog barks at the window, look beyond the immediate area. Check any yards and roads that your dog can see. Listen for unusual sounds, even ones that seem distant. Remember that dogs have great hearing, and they might be reacting to rodents or a noise from a neighbor’s pet.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
