Advances in veterinary technology have helped extend our dogs’ lives, but it isn’t inexpensive. The PAWS Act is a big step in the right direction.
Credit: Mr. Vito | Getty Images
If you think veterinary fees have gone up recently, you’re correct. The Bureau of Labor Statistics shows pet services have risen 60% over the last 10 years—and over 7% in just the last year. Why? Guesses range from corporate greed to higher costs for more advanced technology. (I didn’t read any statistics that any individual veterinarians are focusing more on money than care; for most, their hands are tied, and it breaks their hearts to see clients leave with a sick pet because of cost.)
So, while corporations have the right to grow, expand, and set prices they think people will pay, our alternatives to fight back are limited. The options include:
Seek out privately owned veterinary clinics, which include around half of clinics nationwide. They may offer basic services at less than their corporate competitors. The downside is big, however: You may need to leave your favorite veterinarian and/or drive a distance.
Buy insurance for your dog—not just accident coverage—but real health coverage for the pricey things, like surgeries and many diagnostics. My dogs have pet insurance. When one dog needed emergency surgery, what the insurer paid totaled more than every premium I had paid! The outdated “establish a savings account for your pet expenses” advice pales when you’re faced with a surgery estimate of $7,500. And, God forbid, you’re told that your dog has cancer, but he can be cured. $15,000, please.
And here’s the biggie: Support a new bill proposed by two congresswomen that will amend IRS rules on the use of HSAs and FSAs to include pet expenses up to $1,000. They’re asking that benefits for verified service animals would be limitless.
Congresswomen Deborah Ross of North Carolina and Claudia Tenney of New York introduced the People and Animals Well-being (PAW) Act on September 10. The bill wants to “expand eligibility to include veterinary care expenses under tax-advantaged health care spending accounts, specifically Health Savings Accounts (HSAs) and Flexible Spending Accounts (FSAs). Additionally, the legislation supports veterans and people living with disabilities by imposing no limit on veterinary care expenses for service animals and by ensuring that the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) relies on an up-to-date federal definition of ‘service animal’ for HSA and FSA expenses, which includes animals trained to assist with both physical and mental disabilities,” says Ross.
“Our pets and service animals are cherished members of our families, and it’s essential that owners have the ability to pay for quality care. The PAW Act offers greater flexibility to pet owners by allowing them to use HSAs and FSAs for pet care expenses,” says Tenney.
No, this bill isn’t perfect and $1,000 isn’t a lot, but it will help. Our pets are part of our family.
With so many people struggling just to feed and care for their children, shelters are overflowing with homeless pets with heartbreaking stories. If this bill keeps just one dog in his forever home, I think it’s worth it. Tell your local representatives that this bill needs to be supported and passed.
The ocean liner Queen Mary 2 offers pet kennels for trans-Atlantic travel but you’ll need to book one well in advance since it can sometimes take over a year for a spot to open up. Credit: Debby Bradford
The biggest misconception about taking a dog to Europe or other overseas destinations is that a lengthy quarantine stay is mandatory. That’s old news, but there are still multiple hoops to jump through before you and your dog can jet off to an international locale, whether for a move, a vacation, or specialized pet medical care (yes, that’s a thing).
My husband and I recently put into play a longstanding plan to spend several months exploring Europe—and of course that meant taking our dog Sparkles along. Here’s what we learned about how to travel with a dog internationally, from planning to pitfalls, and how to avoid the latter. It’s not easy or inexpensive, but if you’re planning to stay for more than a month or to make a permanent move, it’s worth the effort.
Before you make travel reservations and start packing your bags, take into account the following 9 factors:
Destination(s) and how to get there
Size of dog and carrier
Pet travel documents
Packing for your pet
Food and medication
Where to stay
Dog-friendly activities
Finding a pet sitter when necessary
Getting back home
Doing research ahead of time, especially on the first four items, will save you a lot of anxiety and, potentially, money.
I See London, I See France
Where you’re going plays a huge role in determining your mode of travel. If you’ve been dreaming of taking your dog to Great Britain and have heard that there’s no longer a six-month quarantine, that doesn’t mean that taking your dog there will be a walk in Hyde Park. Britain has strict guidelines for pet entry. On flights to the United Kingdom, pets may not fly in the cabin but must be transported in cargo. The only exceptions are specific types of assistance or service dogs. (Those requirements aren’t addressed in this article, but more information is available at https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/travel-with-assistance-dogs-transport-companies-and-routes.)
You can only enter the UK directly with your dog if you’re traveling by private jet, including pet-friendly carriers such as Bark Air, or crossing the pond on the ocean liner Queen Mary 2, which has popular pet kennels that are generally booked a year or more in advance.
Start planning now if an Atlantic crossing is the way you want to go. Even though I knew our timeline wouldn’t allow for it, I looked into it just to see how it works. Travelers must reserve a cabin for a specific date first and then call to see if a pet kennel is available. If not, they’ll be placed on a waiting list and contacted when a spot is available. Flexibility is essential. Getting a pet spot can take up to two years or it can happen very quickly if someone cancels a reservation.
How to Travel With a Dog By Plane
Bark Air, Le Pet Express and other services offer free consultation during the paperwork process to make sure owners get it right and aren’t turned away at the border. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
Unless you have a NetJets membership, private jet charters are usually put together with a group of other pet lovers who also want to get to the UK or other destinations without flying their pets in cargo. To find potential charters, usually to the EU or UK, look for Facebook groups such as Chartered Air Travel With Pets. Finding the right charter that works for your destination and dog, not to mention budget, can take months of planning.
Bark Air has a regular schedule of flights to London and Paris and is planning to add other European destinations. It’s pricey, with flights from $8,000 and up each way, but there are no limitations on dog size. (They fly cats, too, if they’re in a carrier and vouched for by an accompanying dog.) Luggage weight is limited, so if you’re a couple or larger family planning a long stay, it makes sense for one person and pets to fly Bark Air or another charter flight, while the others fly commercial with the remaining bags.
For most people, including us, the easiest and most cost-effective way to take a small dog to the UK is to take a commercial flight to France, the Netherlands, or the Republic of Ireland—an EU member—with dog in cabin and then take a ferry or use a pet transport service through the Channel Tunnel, nicknamed the Chunnel.
Size Matters When Travelling With a Dog
Once you make your own flight reservations, call immediately to make one for your dog as well.
Most commercial airlines limit the number of pets on board per flight as well as the animals’ size and weight. Pet fees range from $100 to $200 or more each way and sometimes each leg.
Lyme Regis, on the UK’s Jurassic Coast, has a statue honoring fossil collector and paleontologist Mary Anning and her dog Tray, who accompanied her on her searches. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
At 13 pounds, Sparkles is well under most airline pet weight limits. Air France limits in-cabin dogs to 8 kilograms, or 17.6 pounds. On American Airlines, the combined weight of carrier and pet can’t exceed 20 pounds. Delta recommends checking aircraft dimensions to make sure a carrier will fit comfortably beneath the seat in front of you. They suggest maximum dimensions of 18 inches by 11 inches by 11 inches, which work for most aircraft types. A soft-sided carrier can be compacted on the top and sides to ensure a fit.
Whatever airline you choose, get weight and carrier size requirements directly from its website, not from blogs or random Facebook commenters. Print a copy, bring it with you, and document any phone conversations beforehand with airline employees in case there’s an issue at check-in.
Airlines require that dogs be able to comfortably stand up and turn around inside the closed carrier. Sparkles was happy to do that at home with the enticement of a treat. Fortunately, she didn’t have to demonstrate at check-in. In 20-plus years of flying with Cavaliers, we’ve never had a gate agent ask to weigh a dog or measure a carrier, but that doesn’t mean it can’t happen.
We flew Air Canada from Los Angeles via Montreal to Toulouse, France, and expected to be in premium economy, but their planes aren’t configured to allow pet carriers in that section, so we upgraded to business class. Even that had drawbacks. With Sparkles in a carrier at my feet, it wasn’t possible to recline the seat very much and a shelf underneath the seat in front of me meant that her soft-sided carrier tended to slide forward on takeoff or whenever she moved inside it. Dogs are supposed to remain in the carrier during the entire flight, but overnight, flight attendants turned a blind eye to it being open so she could spread out more.
Documents Needed for Travelling Internationally With Your Dog
Pets need passports, too. Find requirements for specific countries at the website for the USDA’s Animal & Plant Health Inspection Service. Use the dropdown menu at the bottom of the page to select your destination and determine what your dog needs to obtain a health certificate for travel. Minimum requirements are an up-to-date rabies vaccination given at least 21 days prior to travel and a 15-digit ISO-compatible microchip for identification. Some countries such as Japan require additional testing, such as bloodwork for a rabies titer test, plus a seven-month waiting period before the dog can enter the country.
The health certificate paperwork must be completed by a USDA-accredited veterinarian and endorsed by the USDA within 10 days of travel. You can find a list of accredited veterinarians in your area on the APHIS website. Completed health certificates can be submitted to the USDA online or overnighted via Federal Express or UPS. Include an overnight return envelope to get the health certificate returned quickly in time for your trip.
If you are sending the completed paperwork to the USDA, don’t forget to include the printed rabies certificate (even though the vaccination is documented on the paperwork the veterinarian has completed) and the USDA fee of $38 to endorse the health certificate. We didn’t realize the rabies certificate needed to be included or that there was an additional fee, and it caused us an anxious couple of days as we worked with the USDA representative to get the certificate and payment to them. We were fortunate they alerted us immediately that our package wasn’t complete.
Fees for completing the health certificate can range from $30 to $50 (plus the normal cost of the veterinary visit/exam) to $750 or more. We paid $360 for Sparkles’ health certificate. Join Facebook groups such as Animal Health Certificates, Traveling With Dogs, or Travelling With Dogs in Europe/The United Kingdom to get an idea of how much fees can vary and recommendations for veterinarians who charge reasonable rates.
Bear in mind that if you are traveling to the EU and then plan to go to the UK, as we did, you will need to get an EU pet passport once you arrive in an EU country or get health certificates for both the EU and the UK and travel to the UK within 10 days from the date your dog’s health certificate is endorsed.
An EU pet passport makes it easier to travel with your dog between the EU and the UK, but it’s not always easy to get. Veterinarians in some countries such as Ireland and Belgium tend to be more willing than others to provide them. Those in France, Spain, and Portugal may require you to have an in-country address. We were fortunate to find one in France who did not make that a requirement, but we were prepared to drive to Belgium if necessary. If I had realized sooner that Ireland was an option, we might have gone that route. To find a French veterinarian, Google, Google Translate, and email were my friends.
Le Pet Express, the pet transport company we used to get from Calais, France, to the UK was invaluable in reviewing the pet passport to make sure it had been completed, dated, and stamped correctly by the veterinarian. We sent photos of the passport pages and they responded quickly as to whether they would pass inspection at the border. We had to have it redone before they were satisfied, resulting in a smooth experience. On the plus side, the veterinary fees were reasonable: $65 for the exam and passport, plus another $18 to redo the passport.
The final veterinary hurdle was a tapeworm (echinococcus) treatment required by the UK before Sparkles could enter. It had to be administered by a veterinarian at least 24 hours and no more than 120 hours before arrival and recorded in the pet passport or animal health certificate.
What to Pack for Your Dog
Sparkles is limited in where she can hike at home in California, but the Dorset coast offered many opportunities for her to explore. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
Here are the basics:
Food, treats and medication
A soft mat for a bed
Comb, brush or other necessary grooming tools
Poop bags
Wipes for cleaning
Copies of your dog’s prescriptions
We bring a sheet to throw over furniture. Sparkles isn’t into toys, but your dog may have a favorite that should come along. Since we were going to have a car, we also brought her stroller for hot days, crowded areas, or very long walks, and her Sleepypod car seat.
As far as food, we learned during our research that importing meat-based pet food into the EU or UK was not permitted, but fish-based food was okay. Now, nobody checked Sparkles’ suitcase (yes, she had her own) to see what was in it, but to be on the safe side, we switched her to a fish-based food a month or so before departure. Once we arrived, we searched pet supply stores for foods that were similar to the freeze-dried, turkey-based food she had been eating at home. We found an assortment, especially in the UK, and she readily ate what was provided without any stomach upset.
Dog-Friendly Lodging, Restaurants, and Activities
Our London hosts were Cavalier fans, although their new dog is a doodle puppy, and they had no objection to Sparkles being on the furniture or bed. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
Whether you’re staying in hotels or homes, it’s easy to find pet-friendly lodging using website filters. Always confirm before you commit.
It’s almost impossible to find restaurants that don’t allow pets, although there are a few. Sparkles went with us for dim sum in Bordeaux, traditional French in St. Emilion, and pubs in the UK. Like most of the other dogs we saw, she hung out beneath the table, sleeping or watching the passing parade. (Okay, we sneaked bites to her once in a while.)
You won’t be able to take your dog inside museums or stately homes or chateaux, but the grounds are often dog friendly. We take turns going inside, with the other person walking Sparkles or hanging out at a café with a coffee or glass of wine. Our best day was at Marble Hill, just outside London, which had vast lawns and river paths where dogs could safely walk and play off leash.
Many pubs and restaurants in Europe allow dogs but be sure to check before sitting down for a meal. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
On occasion, you may need a pet sitter. When we were going to be gone all day on a tour of World War II sites in Normandy, we checked Rover to find a local pet sitter. If that hadn’t worked out, I would have skipped the tour and explored Bayeux on my own with Sparkles.
Getting Your Dog Back Home
Just before we flew to France, the Centers for Disease Control changed the entry requirements for pets returning to the United States. If you have been only in rabies-free or low-risk areas like EU member countries and the UK, complete a free Dog Import Form online. The emailed receipt can be stored on your phone. Present it on return if asked for it. You can find out more on the CDC’s website.
Cleanliness and being sure the puppies are nursing all the teats can help prevent mastitis.
Credit: Fabio Filzi | Getty Images
Breeding and raising a litter of puppies can be an extremely rewarding experience. It can also be fraught with complications for the puppies and for the mother herself. One of those complications is mastitis.
Mastitis is an inflammatory condition of the mammary glands of intact female dogs. It can involve infection (bacterial or rarely, fungal). Mastitis is most likely to occur in situations of sudden decrease in milk consumption by puppies, for example, after abrupt weaning of the litter, or after death of nursing puppies. Sometimes mastitis can occur in late pregnancy, or in female dogs who experience pseudocyesis (false pregnancy).
Note: Swollen mammary glands in dogs not pregnant may be caused by a variety of problems, including cancer, so the dog should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.
Signs of Mastitis in Dogs
Clinical signs of mastitis involve abnormal changes to the mammary glands: redness or other discoloration, firm swelling, heat, and pain. Milk might be difficult to express, bloody or discolored. In severe cases, there can be fever, ulceration of the mammary glands, development of abscesses, or necrosis. In mild cases, the only clinical sign might be nursing puppies who fail to gain weight.
If mastitis is suspected, a physical exam by a veterinarian is recommended. A complete blood count might be normal in the early stages; more severe cases will result in an increase in white blood cells. Milk cytology will show an increased neutrophil count. Milk should be cultured from an aseptically obtained sample to direct antibiotic therapy.
Treating Canine Mastitis
Treatment of mastitis involves broad-spectrum antibiotics for suspected infection. Antibiotic choice will need to take into consideration whether there are puppies still nursing from the patient, and duration of treatment is usually for two to three weeks.
Cabbage leaf compresses can be used to address inflammation. Raw cabbage leaves can be applied to the affected glands and secured in place with a wrap for two to three hours, then removed for three to four hours (puppies can nurse when the cabbage leaves are removed). Therapeutic cold laser can also be helpful to address inflammation.
For nursing mothers, expressing the milk in the affected gland every six hours can help with swelling and pain. Massage and warm compresses can also help bring blood flow into the affected tissue and break up the congestion within the gland. Pain management should be considered.
If there is systemic illness, hospitalization might be necessary for intravenous fluid therapy and antibiotics. In severe cases, especially those involving gangrene, surgical debridement or mastectomy is necessary.
Note: If the patient is in a false pregnancy, do not express milk, as that will encourage more milk to be produced. Try to remove the objects she treats as her “puppies” to help decrease the production of the hormone prolactin, which also stimulates milk production. There is an oral medication that can help decrease prolactin levels (cabergoline).
Preventing Mastitis in Dogs
Prevention of mastitis involves keeping the nursing environment as clean as possible. It’s wise to try to prevent trauma to the mammary glands by eliminating sharp objects in the whelping box and trimming the puppies’ toenails. Make sure the puppies are nursing from all the teats to keep the glands drained (in small litters, rotate through each of the teats).
Mastitis can be a stressful complication of raising a litter of puppies, but it is rarely life-threatening if long as prompt veterinary attention is sought as early in this disease process as possible. Breeders should monitor the state of the mammary glands starting prior to whelping through past weaning to catch those early clinical signs.
Some dogs will remove food from a bowl and move it to another spot in the house or yard before eating it. Credit: Credit: Alexandra Jursova|Getty Images
It’s dinnertime, and you’ve put your dog’s filled food bowl on the floor in its normal place. A couple of minutes later, you walk into your bedroom and hear a crunch underfoot, only to discover pieces of kibble scattered everywhere, and your pup happily devouring it, piece by piece.
No, it’s not because your dog is suddenly terrified of his food bowl, or that he’d rather have a blue bowl than a red one, or that he just likes to make a mess. However, even researchers and dog behaviorists can’t say with absolutely certainty why some dogs exhibit this carrying-food-to-another-place behavior. The best these experts can offer are theories about why some dogs prefer to eat their food somewhere other than their food bowl.
As with so many dog peculiarities like digging, or licking, or circling before lying down, there’s general agreement that part of the answer lies in the domestic dog’s wolf ancestry. When the pack made a kill, the parents would feed first, after which the juveniles would have to compete for the best pieces, then drag them away to avoid having to fight the rest of the pack for them. “Fighting is obviously very risky,” explains Dr. Julie Albright-Keck with the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine, “so most animals, especially subordinate ones, will go to great lengths to avoid an altercation.”
A slightly different take comes from some experts who think that dogs who feel chronically vulnerable or who exhibit a lower social status could be more motivated to carry their food to a different place so no other dog can get to it—even if they’re the only dog in the home. Again, this could be related to the tendency among the dog’s wild ancestors for young or more passive members of the pack to grab their share of the kill, then take it somewhere else to guard it from competitors. “Even though a domestic dog may not be in danger when eating, it may be that instincts override everything else,” explains veterinary health expert Dr. Gary Richter.
This food-moving behavior doesn’t appear to be associated with specific breeds. While some studies show that smaller dogs do this more than larger dogs—many going so far as to carry their entire food bowl elsewhere—other experts have found that more wolf-like dogs such as Siberian Huskies, Malamutes, and Great Pyrenees also tend to take their food to other places to eat it.
Another theory is that some dogs may take their food to another place to eat it because of the desire for companionship. We know that wolves hunt and eat in a pack, and there’s a chance that your dog wants its “human pack” with him while he eats. “By nature, dogs are social creatures and the company can motivate them to eat,” says canine behavior expert and trainer Shelby Semel.
Dr. Liz Stelow of the University of California Davis School of Veterinary Medicine echoes this sentiment, explaining that the reason some dogs want companionship at mealtime may be because they receive an emotional reward for eating. “Some owners create a relationship with the dog around food,” she says, “especially if he has a history of being a picky eater.” Over time, the dog has come to expect—and enjoy—his caretaker’s verbal encouragement, possible hand-feeding, and general attention. This can lead to the dog feeling more rewarded by eating in the caretaker’s presence than alone.
Another possible reason your dog might be taking food from his bowl is the bowl itself. “If you’re feeding your dog from a metal bowl,“ explains Dr. Holly Ahlgrim, Urgent Care veterinarian at the Animal Medical Center of Seattle, ”it’s possible that the clinking sound created by food being pushed around, or a dangling collar tag, may be irritating or upsetting your dog. They may be chewing their food away from the bowl to avoid the sound.”
A related issue is the dog who, contrary to taking his food somewhere else to eat it, won’t let anyone near it. It’s a perfectly normal canine behavior to protect a food source, since in the wild, food protection behavior evolved to keep other dogs away from a meal. Even though in most cases the modern family dog doesn’t really need to protect his food from a scavenger, this behavior is innate, harkening back to the dog’s past as a wild animal. This is related to a behavior called caching, where an animal hides or buries a food resource to save it for the future.
But even in wolves, food guarding is less often actual aggression than it is a threat display. This can include growling, baring of teeth, or snapping and while this kind of behavior can be disturbing to us, it seldom results in a bite. In a study of 3,226 dogs, 41 percent of the dogs showed vocal behaviors towards humans during resource guarding, but only 15 percent escalated to biting, and of those, less than 10 percent caused an injury. Regardless, any time a dog exhibits this type of threat display, you need to be extremely careful in your approach to avoid being bitten. If you are at all uncertain of how to address this issue, consult with a qualified behaviorist.
One other strange behavior some dogs exhibit around food is covering the food bowl. Veterinary researcher Dr. Myrna Milani explains that most of the time, the dog that tries to hide their food—whether with a blanket, a pair of socks, or anything else they can find—is uncomfortable with something in their immediate environment that makes them not want to eat at that specific time or in that specific place. “If an animal doesn’t feel secure in its space it won’t eat, no matter how tempting the food you offer it,” she says. Any number of things can spark that insecurity, including an unfamiliar human or other animal nearby, unusual activity in the home, or even a change in where the dog is being fed. If this behavior happens often, it’s worth doing some detective work to figure out what’s bugging your pup.
In the end, if your dog decides to transport his kibble to the living room to eat it, the worst case scenario is that you step on an errant pellet and have to clean it up. But other than that, there’s nothing to worry about: it’s perfectly normal, if a little exasperating, dog behavior!
A growing number of organizations provide support and housing for victims of domestic violence and their pets. Credit: Hailey Seelig, Getty Images
The headline that caught my eye was, “Dog Thief Arrested After Helicopter Pursuit.” I thought, “Wow! That’s a terrific response to a dog-napping!” But when I read the article, I realized that the story was darker than the headline seemed to suggest.
You see, the article wasn’t actually about a dog-napping; it was about a man who was arrested after violating a protection order and threatening a 26-year-old woman at her home, and then taking her dog. Several people called 911 after witnessing the man threatening the woman, and reported that the man had a gun and left in a car. When the responding officers couldn’t find the woman, they initiated a search for the car and, upon spotting it, initiated a pursuit. They discontinued the pursuit as the vehicle was being driven recklessly, but after the driver crashed the car, a law-enforcement helicopter spotted the man and followed him until he was apprehended. He was charged with domestic violence felony harassment, domestic violence theft in the third degree (for the theft of the woman’s dog), unlawful possession of a firearm, driving with a suspended license, hit-and-run of an attended vehicle, domestic violence violation of a no contact order, and obstruction. (According to the article, the woman was found and the dog returned to her, and both are “OK.” I would submit that “OK” is probably an inadequate description of how the woman is likely to feel, even if she and her dog were not physically harmed.)
People who commit domestic violence rarely abuse only the people with whom they have been in a relationship; they often target anyone or anything that their victims care about, and frequently this includes pets who belong to their victims. Consider these facts, compiled by RedRover, a national animal welfare nonprofit:
71% of women in domestic violence shelters report their abuser threatened, injured, or killed a pet. (Source: National Coalition Against Domestic Violence)
Nearly half of victims stay with an abuser rather than leave their pet behind. (Source: Carlisle-Frank, Frank and Nielsen (2004), Pets as Pawns.)
52% of survivors in shelters leave their pets with the abusers. (Source: National Coalition Against Domestic Violence)
As many as 25% of survivors will return because the abuser is using their pet as a means to get the person back. (Source: ASPCA)
Fortunately, there is a growing number of organizations that provide support to pet-owning victims of domestic violence, and others who are working to help domestic-violence shelters become pet-friendly. If victims have resources that can safely accommodate their pets, they are more likely to seek help and shelter for themselves.
Only an estimated 18% of domestic violence shelters allow the people they admit to bring their pets. Since 2019, Purina has invested over $2 million through its Purple Leash Project and partnership with RedRover to help domestic violence shelters make the changes needed to accept pets. When Purina and RedRover began this work only 4 percent of shelters accepted pets. However, through the Purple Leash Project, and over $500,000 in grants awarded last year alone, 18 percent of domestic violence shelters are now pet-friendly. But there’s more work to be done. Purina’s goal to help ensure at least 25 percent of domestic violence shelters become pet-friendly by 2025.
RedRover’s Relief Safe Escape grant program helps families with pets safely escape domestic violence together. Funding is mainly provided to help with the cost of temporary pet boarding while a survivor is in a domestic violence shelter, though other costs associated with boarding (like vaccinations) can be considered. Assistance does not typically cover pet boarding once the survivor has moved from the safe house into transitional housing.
Greater Good Charities and RedRover have teamed up to create effective and sustainable programs for people and pets in crisis. Their expert team works with organizations around the country to help build pet-inclusive housing programs that keep families together. See Don’tForgetThePets.org for more information.
The National Domestic Violence Hotline has information about how to include pets in a plan to escape from an abuser.
The Animal Welfare Institute maintains a guide to teach advocates and attorneys who represent pet-owning domestic violence survivors, to teach the advocates how to get the pets of domestic-violence survivors included in domestic violence protection orders. The guide is tailored for the laws in California—but may be helpful as a model for attorneys in other states.
If you or someone you know is in an unsafe or abusive relationship and concern about their pets is preventing them from getting help, please share these resources with them. You just may help them save their lives—and those of their beloved animal companions.
Wet food, like canned foods, offers a multitude of benefits for your senior dog.
Credit: Monica Bertolazzi
As dogs age, their nutritional needs and dietary preferences may change. Dog food recommended for senior dogs is usually soft, wet, or canned. The wide variety of soft foods on the market makes it easy to find one to fit your senior’s specific needs, as you will see here. The higher aroma of wet foods, which can be increased if you warm the food a bit in a microwave, may get your old friend chowing down the way he used to eat.
Soft dog food is great for senior dogs because, compared to dry foods, it offers:
Ease of consumption
Higher palatability
Hydration
Increased digestibility
Stronger aroma
Soft food does, however, come with the drawbacks of a higher cost, refrigerated storage, and a short shelf-life after opening it.
Variety of Formulations
Canned food comes in multiple formats, from patés to chunks in gravy and is formulated to meet every life-stage, from puppies to seniors. These formulations use a variety of different protein sources, from conventional proteins like chicken and beef, to novel protein sources, such as venison and rabbit. Veterinary formulations are also available for dogs who need specialized nutrition for health reasons, and there are foods formulated specifically for senior dogs.
Old Dog Dental Issues
Canned food is often easier for senior dogs to chew and digest compared to dry kibble. As dogs age, they can experience dental issues or reduced jaw strength, making softer food a more comfortable option than dry, hard foods.
For seniors with dental issues, eating hard food can be painful and may lead to reduced food intake. Often, dental cleaning or tooth extractions are needed to solve the problem, but feeding wet food can help provide some relief to your pet in the meantime.
Canned Food Is More Appetizing to Dogs
In addition to being easier to eat, soft food may be more palatable due to its higher moisture and strong aroma. As dogs age, a decrease in their sense of smell can have negative impacts on their appetite. For dogs that have diminished appetites, or are historically picky eaters, selecting a strong-smelling food, such as a canned diet, may help entice your senior at mealtimes.
Benefits of a Wet Food
The higher levels of moisture in canned foods are not only beneficial for palatability, but also for hydration. Senior dogs are more prone to dehydration than their younger counterparts, so providing moisture during their mealtimes will help ensure they have the water necessary to maintain healthy bodily functions, including supporting kidney and urinary health.
Canned Food Is Gentler
Canned dog food can be gentler on the digestive system than conventional kibble, which is advantageous for older dogs with sensitive stomachs. Wet foods typically contain higher inclusions of meat ingredients, which are protein-rich and highly digestible. High-quality protein sources are important, especially for seniors who often struggle to maintain lean muscle mass. Finding a canned food that is formulated specifically for seniors can also provide additional benefits for our aging companions, as senior formulas are often enriched with nutrients to support joint health, decrease inflammation, and promote digestion.
Downsides of Soft Dog Food
Despite all the pluses to feeding soft food to senior dogs, there are some cons. Canned dog food generally has a shorter shelf life compared to kibble, especially after it has been opened. Proper storage and refrigeration after opening are necessary to prevent spoilage. This can result in increased food waste if your dog does not consume it quickly enough.
Feeding a diet of only soft dog food is more expensive than feeding kibble, which may make it cost-prohibitive, especially for those with multiple pets or large breeds. Because of the water content present in canned foods, the volume you need to feed to meet your dog’s energy and nutrient requirements is much higher than that of a dehydrated diet.
If your older dog—or any dog—stops eating, be sure to consult with your veterinarian to be certain he isn’t ill. And, while you’re there, talk to your veterinarian for help determining the best diet for your senior dog and their health needs.
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status hereorcontact customer service.
Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.
Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.
Subscribenow and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!
Heeling will keep your dog right beside you when needed but shouldn’t be overused on walks. Credit: alexei_tm | Getty Images
Sometimes we need our dogs to follow tucked up close to us in a heel position, so it’s a valuable skill for your dog to learn. While most often useful for safety, it can also be helpful for foundational work in canine freestyle and other activities. That said, unless you’re training for competition in the obedience ring, save heel for times of need. Dogs shouldn’t be forced to walk in a strict heel for their entire walks. It’s restrictive, boring, and provides little, if any, stimulation for the dog.
Heel is good day-to-day when:
In a crowded environment
Crossing the street
Around unfamiliar children
Passing other dogs
How to Teach a Dog to Heel
When teaching your dog to heel, start indoors with little to no distractions. Grab some very small but very yummy snacks.
Ask your dog to sit on your chosen side. Try luring him into position from behind you so he’s facing forward. Use a high rate of reinforcement here: treat handsomely when he reaches the desired position.
Put the treats behind your back. When your dog isn’t looking at the treat or you, but still sitting beside you, mark and reward.
Encourage him to follow at your chosen side as you walk around the room (make kissy noises, tap your thigh, etc.). When your dog is at your chosen side, mark and reward.
When you stop, ask your dog for a sit. Hand signals are helpful here. Mark and reward.
Once your dog is able to follow along at your side, introduce the verbal cue “heel” or “close” and repeat steps 1 through 4.
When your dog is responding to the verbal cue, begin to fade the lure, meaning reward intermittently, then randomly.
Now that your dog is following alongside you, change it up: vary your speed and change direction, all while encouraging your dog to be at your side.
Finally, practice on-leash inside, then take it to the streets. Start with low-level distractions then work up to busier, noisier environments.
Tips for Teaching a Dog to Heel
Because heading out into the world presents a challenge, go back to using treats here at first. Fade shortly after.
If your dog isn’t doing well on one of the steps, don’t keep moving on: hang out there until you’re both ready to proceed.
Learning takes time: be patient.
This is a very unnatural ]behavior for dogs (much like leash walking), so cut him some slack and shape the behavior if necessary.
Dogs respond to human stress in any number of ways including snuggling close, getting nervous or withdrawn, or becoming highly excitable. Credit: yavdat | Getty Images
Most dog owners don’t need a scientific study to tell them that dogs can pick up on—and be affected by—the emotions of the humans around them. If I’m having a rough day, I can fully expect to find a chin on my knee and big, worried brown eyes gazing up at me. Even if I think I’m hiding my stress well, maintaining a normal routine, and interacting with my dogs as I usually do, the dogs respond.
It makes sense that my dogs would know me well enough to catch on to my emotional state. We live our lives together and I’m their primary handler and caregiver—they’ve had plenty of time to figure out what’s normal for me. But how quickly do dogs pick up on stress in someone they don’t know? Pretty darn quickly from what I’ve seen. Just watch a therapy dog at work.
Beyond my anecdotal observations, canine responses to human stress were documented in a recent study led by the University of Bristol. Published in July 2024, the study found that “dogs experience emotional contagion from the smell of human stress, leading them to make more ‘pessimistic’ choices.”
To determine ‘optimistic’ and ‘pessimistic’ reactions, researchers started by teaching the dogs participating in the study that a food bowl placed in one location always had a treat in it while a bowl placed in another location was always empty. From there, they put bowls in spots between the two original locations and waited to see how quickly the dogs went to go check the new bowls for treats. According to the study, “a quick approach reflected ‘optimism’ about food being present in these ambiguous locations—a marker of a positive emotional state—whilst a slow approach indicated ‘pessimism’ and negative emotion.”
Trials were then done to see how quickly the dogs approached a bowl in an ambiguous location when there were no additional scents present and after the dogs were exposed to “sweat and breath samples from humans in either a stressed (arithmetic test) or relaxed (listening to soundscapes) state.”
Researchers found that dogs exposed to the smell of stressed human were slower to approach ambiguously located bowls, especially those nearer the empty bowl location. The smell of relaxed human seemed to have no effect. Interestingly, the study noted that “the team also found that dogs continued to improve their learning about the presence or absence of food in the two trained bowl locations and that they improved faster when the stress smell was present.”
“Dog owners know how attuned their pets are to their emotions, but here we show that even the odour of a stressed, unfamiliar human affects a dog’s emotional state, perception of rewards, and ability to learn,” says the paper’s lead author, Dr. Nicola Rooney. “Working dog handlers often describe stress travelling down the lead, but we’ve also shown it can also travel through the air.”
While the study’s conclusions didn’t surprise me, I found it to be a good reminder to pay attention to how much stress my dogs may be picking up from me and other people around them. While stress is often unavoidable, it’s worth remembering that, especially if things have been unusually tense for a few days, it may be time for a quiet walk around the neighborhood, gentle brushing, or other calming activity. It’ll be good for dog and human both.
If your dog enjoys the water and loves playing fetch, dock diving might be the sport for him. Credit: Julia Bri Photography
Do you have a dog who zooms into lakes, creeks, and rivers at first sight? Does your dog live for fetch and toy play? If so, dock diving may be the sport for her.
What Is Dock Diving?
Dock diving combines jumping, swimming, and toy retrieval into one splash-filled, competitive canine sport. Dock diving at its core requires dogs to jump off a platform (or dock) into a pool. There are three different events or disciplines in canine dock diving: distance jump, hydrodash, and air retrieve.
Distance jump requires you to throw a toy for your dog while they get a running head start and try to jump as far as possible down the pool. In hydrodash, dogs aim to swim as fast as possible towards a fixed toy in the pool and retrieve it. In air retrieve, dogs shoot to jump and grab or knock down a toy that’s fixed above the pool, gaining lots of vertical distance. Note that these events may have slightly different names based on the organization you’re competing in.
How Do You Get Started in Dock Diving?
Dock diving is open to any breed or mix. Credit: Courtesy of K9cation
Whether or not you’re interested in competing in dock diving, pretty much any dog can try it out. According to Bri Benton, a long time dock diving instructor, dock manager, and dock competitor based in Spring, Texas, puppies and dogs don’t need to know how to swim to begin learning the initial skills for dock diving.
“I incorporate many foundations from other sports such as disc, agility, and flyball into my training foundations and I will focus on relationship building, confidence building, and toy drive exercises with my young dogs,” she says. “While I encourage swimming and retrieving at a young age, I generally do not start training them on the dock until they are 8 to 12 months old.”
Benton recommends finding knowledgeable instructors in your area to try out dock diving. She also recommends going to local competitions to observe, learn, and volunteer. “Most competitors are always happy to help beginners find training resources and competitions around their area,” she says.
Once you’ve found a dock diving instructor in your area, you and your dog will start with foundational training. Though many dogs love water, they’re likely used to getting into bodies of water with sloped, gradual entries like lakes and ponds. Dock diving pools can be intimidating, since dogs need to jump off the elevated surface into the water below.
Dock diving is a great way to build a dog’s confidence and strengthen the relationship between dog and handler. Credit: Julia Bri Photography
Kelly Roll, dock diving competitor and owner of K9cation dog training and boarding in Hudson, Colorado, says that the best intro to dock diving involves building your dog’s confidence. In foundation training, Roll says that K9cation clients often get into the pool with their dog. Dogs start by entering the water from a ramp before building confidence to swim out into the pool and are always heavily praised and rewarded.
“Once a dog is confidently entering the pool and sticking their face in the water to retrieve a toy, we work on a dog gaining an arch while jumping off the ramp,” Roll says. “This shows us the dog has potential to dive off the dock.” Roll says that once a dog is getting arch while jumping off the ramp and confidently sticking their face in the water, training will move to the dock to begin to teach the dog to jump off it. Dogs that have a hard time gaining arch or distance may be better suited to hydrodash than the other two dock disciplines.
Training for the sport should always include positive reinforcement methods. “We never want to pressure a dog so much that the dog is frustrated, and we definitely never shove the dog off the dock,” says Roll. “Dogs that are forced against their will to enter a pool are not allowed at competition and we do not allow it at training because it causes a loss of confidence and is just not a good way to get dogs to have fun and be confident in this sport.”
What Are the Different Dock Diving Organizations to Compete In?
Similar to other dog sports like agility, there are multiple venues for dock diving competitions and figuring out which organization to register and compete with can be confusing. According to Benton, there are currently several Dock Diving organizations to compete with, the most popular being:
“Each organization offers different formats for competing as well as different titling structures,” she says.
How Do You Compete in Dock Diving?
Distance jump is just one of the disciplines available for dock diving dogs. Credit: Courtesy of K9cation
Each of the dock diving organizations requires a separate registration plus a registration fee before you can compete at events. Registration fees typically sit around $30 to $35. Once you’re registered, you can use the organizations’ event search features on their websites to find local dock competitions and enter them. Entry fees typically run about $25-$40 per jump, and pre-registration will usually get you a discount.
According to Benton, there are also tons of helpful Facebook groups that will post details for upcoming competitions. “When in doubt, asking other competitors or trainers local to your area can be helpful too,” she says.
Not sure if your dog is ready for a competition yet? Roll says dogs are typically ready to enter trials when they are confidently and consistently jumping off the dock. If you think your dog is ready for the competition environment but you just want to try it out in a more low-stakes way first, many dock diving events offer “try-its” or discounted practice runs that don’t count for points but allow you and your dog to get the feel for a real trial. Try-its are usually around $10 per splash.
Should I Try Dock Diving With My Dog?
Whether or not you decide to compete, dock diving can be a fun activity for you and your dog to enjoy together. “At the end of the day, this sport is all about having fun with your dog,” Benton says. “Your dog has no idea how far they jump or how many ribbons they win, they just know that they’re getting to play their favorite game with their favorite person! It is so important to never lose sight of why we compete in dog sports and that is to enjoy our dogs and bond with them on a deeper level.”
Daily brushing can improve the overall health of your dog’s coat and help reduce dandruff. Credit: sonsam | Getty Images
Dandruff in dogs isn’t a life-threatening disease, but dry skin flakes are messy, itchy, and unattractive. Worse, they can trigger allergic reactions in humans and signal health problems in your pup. What causes dog dandruff, how can you prevent it, and what can you do to improve your dog’s coat?
Causes of Dandruff in Dogs
Flaking dandruff can be caused by seborrhea, a condition where new skin cells move too quickly to the skin’s surface often accompanied by overactive glands that cause greasy skin. Researchers suspect a genetic connection because the condition is common among certain breeds, like American Cocker Spaniels, English Springer Spaniels, Doberman Pinschers, Dachshunds, German Shepherd Dogs, and West Highland White Terriers.
If your dog’s dandruff outbreaks coincide with dry winter weather, the trigger may be a lack of humidity combined with indoor heating, both of which dry the skin. Too-frequent bathing or the use of harsh shampoos can also cause skin to crack and flake.
Environmental and seasonal allergies can cause or worsen dog dandruff by exposing dogs to pollen and other substances that contribute to dry, flaky, itchy, or inflamed skin. Nutritional deficiencies, including insufficient or poor-quality protein or a lack of Omega-3 fatty acids, have a similar effect.
Itchy paws, flaky skin, and an unpleasant skin odor can also be signs of a yeast infection such as Malassezia. If simple home remedies don’t eliminate dandruff, schedule a vet visit to check for yeast, fungi, mites, or other underlying factors. In some cases, hypothyroidism (an underactive thyroid gland) or auto-immune diseases cause dandruff in dogs.
How to Reduce Dog Dandruff
Gentle daily brushing is an important treatment for your dog’s skin and coat because it stimulates blood flow, promotes natural oil production, and distributes oils throughout the coat.
Slicker brushes covered with short, tightly packed wire pins angled to avoid skin scratches are recommended for most pups, including long-coated, wire-coated, or curly coated dogs.
Pinhead or wire-pin brushes with medium-spaced wire pins that may have rubber tips to protect the skin are recommended for most breeds, finishing long coats, smoothing hair, and removing dust and dirt.
Bristle brushes made with natural or synthetic bristles work well on short-haired dogs and dogs with silky coats.
Rubber or silicone brushes with short, flexible bristles are also called bath brushes because they can be used to massage shampoo or conditioner into the coat as well as brush short coats between baths.
Grooming mitts, which are gloves with silicone or rubber ridges or nodules that remove dead hair and smooth the coat, combine grooming with petting, which may help anxious dogs relax and help owners feel closer to their pets while improving their coats. Increasingly popular, grooming mitts or gloves come in a variety of shapes and sizes for left and right hands.
Visit pet supply stores or grooming salons to compare brushes and ask a groomer for advice about which will work best for your dog. Look for a brush with a comfortable handle or ergonomic design that will be easy for you to use. Frequent brushing helps the coat shine, helps prevent tangles and matting, and reduces dandruff.
Improved nutrition changes a dog’s coat, especially when the quality of a food’s protein is upgraded. As explained in How to Find Healthy Dog Food, look for foods that name animal protein sources at the top of the ingredient list. Add fresh foods like eggs, meat, fish, yogurt, or cottage cheese to your dog’s dry food to improve its nutritional content. Try an Omega-3 fatty acid supplement like salmon oil or other fish oil to support the skin’s elasticity, making it less brittle and less inclined to crack or flake. Dehydration contributes to dry skin as well, so help prevent it by placing extra bowls of fresh water in convenient locations for your dog.
Moisturizing shampoos and conditioners relieve flakiness and irritation. Human dandruff shampoos are considered too harsh for pups, but gentle products designed for dogs can make a difference. Oatmeal and aloe vera are popular ingredients, and natural anti-itch sprays or conditioners applied after bathing or between baths help reduce symptoms. Products recommended for dogs with dandruff include
Canicross is open to any breed or mix, but be sure you and your dog are healthy and well-conditioned before getting started. Credit: Raquel Pedrosa | Getty Images
Canicross—the name comes from the words “canine” and “cross-country”—is, essentially, the sport of long distance trail running with your dog. It began in Europe with sled dog competitors who were looking for a way to condition their dogs during the summertime. Without snow to provide a surface, mushers needed to run with their dogs to keep them in good shape. From that necessity, canicross was born.
In the early 2000s, canicross began to catch on as a sport in Europe and by 2015 championship events were being held in the U.K. In 2018, Brian Thomas, owner of Wisconsin-based specialty running and canicross store Kenosha Running Company, started forming CanicrossUSA chapters across the U.S. Today, there are chapters in every part of the country and two national canicross organizations.
Picking the Right Canicross Gear
Many people enjoy jogging with their dogs, but canicross is more than just running with your dog in tow. In canicross, your dog pulls you, which creates a completely different sensation than just running with the leash in your hand. Canicross teams use special equipment that enables the dog to pull while also protecting the safety of both dog and runner and helping the team to run faster.
Dogs participating in canicross wear a pulling harness that is designed to rest on the dog’s breastbone, leaving the neck unencumbered so the dog can breathe freely as he runs. The human partner in the team wears a running belt that attaches to the dog’s harness. The running belt has an elastic attachment that protects the runner should the dog lunge forward or to the side. It’s similar to a rock-climbing harness and wraps around the hips and through the legs.
“Proper gear is so important for the dog and human,” says Thomas.
While the human running belt is easily adjustable for just about anyone, your dog needs to be properly fitted for the pulling harness. A properly fitted harness will allow your dog to run freely without undo strain on his joints and ligaments.
“We have fitted probably 1,000 dogs over the past 7 years for the correct fitting harness, either in person or in a very detailed manner over the phone, exchanging pictures and measurements by email,” says Thomas.
Is Canicross Right Dog for Your Dog?
You don’t need a particular breed of dog to do canicross because the sport is open to every breed and mix. That said, the best dogs for the sport are ones that are healthy, naturally athletic, and have good, open airways. Brachycephalic breeds like Bulldogs, Pugs, and Shih Tzus are not considered good candidates for a canicross team.
A dog’s age should also be a factor when considering participating in canicross. As with other high-impact sport such as agility, dogs shouldn’t begin canicross until their growth plates have closed. That can occur anywhere between 12 and 24 months based on factors such as breed and size with small dogs typically maturing faster and giant breeds taking longer. Remember, doing high-impact activities with a dog who hasn’t finished developing can result in health issues later in the dog’s life.
In addition, a dog can be too old for canicross. Senior dogs suffering from arthritis or other orthopedic or health problems aren’t good candidates for the sport.
If you have a dog who is athletic, in good health, and loves to run, have your veterinarian examine him before you participate in canicross. Let your vet know that you plan to start running with your dog so she can be sure he’s healthy enough. You’ll vet will perform a physical exam and may recommend bloodwork to help ensure your dog’s metabolism and major organs are up for a sport that requires endurance.
If you are thinking about getting a dog you can compete with in canicross, focus on breeds that are known for running. Siberian Huskies, Greyhounds, and sporting breeds such as pointers and retrievers are common breeds seen at canicross events. If you’d like to rescue a dog and make him your canicross partner, pick one that has athletic breeds in its mix.
“One of the great outcomes is to see how many of our trail runners have gone out and adopted a rescue dog so they can start entering our canicross events,” says Thomas.
Join a Canicross Club
Participating in canicross is often the most fun when you do it in a group. CanicrossUSA clubs around the country hold events where you can meet other dog owners in the sport and can learn how to pace yourself and your dog. You can also find other canicross runners in your area by using MeetUp or Facebook and searching for “canicross”.
While some people participate in canicross just for fun, others enjoy competing in the sport. In Europe, some organizations are even working toward making canicross an Olympic event.
One organization in the U.S. dedicated to the competitive side of the sport is North American Canicross (NAC), which started in 2019 for the purposes of promoting canicross as a competitive event. The organization’s programs include Lifetime Achieved Miles, which emphasizes conditioning and training in both dog and human; Race Dog Distance titles, which include Sprint Distance Class and a 5k Distance Class, with emphasis on speed, endurance and athleticism; and Championship titles, which are awarded to dogs who have completed a variety of race distances including 5k, 21k and marathons. The elements of a dog and human running together as a team are highlighted, with strength, confidence, speed, communication and athleticism being recognized in all these categories.
Winners in NAC events are awarded Challenge Coins at each Titled achievement, and any dog 18 months of age or older is eligible, regardless of breed or mix. NAC doesn’t hold its own events, but recognizes achievements accomplished by dog and human teams in other canicross events and dog-friendly runs.
How To Start Canicross
If canicross sounds like the sport for you, you’ll need to start working on training your dog and conditioning both of you.
For dogs to compete in canicross events, they need to know basic obedience cues and respond to your voice. Even though your dog will be on a leash during canicross events, he still needs to pay attention to you. Your dog will be out in front of you, pulling you along, so you want him to be under control. Be sure he is well-behaved around other dogs and people he doesn’t know. The last thing you need is to lose control of your dog because he is reacting to another dog or to a passing stranger.
Many canicross competitors teach their dogs directional cues, such as “go,” “stop,” “left,” and “right” to help direct the dog during a run. Your dog is in the lead when you are running, but you are the one telling him where to go. Using your voice to cue your dog to slow down, go fast, and make turns will make your run a lot smoother—and faster.
Conditioning for both you and your dog is mandatory before you sign up for a canicross event. If you are already running regularly with your dog, you may both be in good enough shape to start participating. You will just need to get used to running with your dog in a canicross harness attached to your running belt. You’ll want to practice with your new canicross gear so you and your dog are comfortable with it before you sign up for a run.
If you want to try canicross but you’ve only been taking your dogs on walks, start a slow but steady conditioning plan. Add about five minutes of running to your walks each day, and gradually increase how much you are running each week. If your goal is to eventually do 5k canicross events, build up to this distance over a month or more. Keep an eye on your dog to make sure you aren’t pushing him too hard. Alongside preventing injuries, you want him to enjoy this!
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
