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Dehydrated Dog Food Review 2014

Occasionally we are asked to rate the various options that owners have for feeding their dogs, based on the relative “healthiness” of each major type of food: home-prepared (raw or cooked); commercial raw, frozen diets and freeze-dried or dehydrated dog food raw diets; canned food, and kibble. Actually, in our opinion, that list of food types is ranked accurately right there, from best to worst, in terms of their potential for improving or supporting a dog’s peak health.

dehydrated dog food

On what do we base that ranking? While it’s difficult to get nutritionists to agree on just about anything, it’s likely that most would agree on the following general idea: that a diet that was formulated to be “complete and balanced” and comprised of fresh, lightly processed or unprocessed species-appropriate ingredients is healthier than a “complete and balanced” diet containing highly processed ingredients that are uncommonly consumed by a given species in nature. That general theory explains our high esteem for the dehydrated and freeze-dried diets that we’ve listed in the attached 2014 Dehydrated Dog Food Review

ATTENTION: In the April 2018 issue, Whole Dog Journal published a new, updated list of approved freeze-dried raw dog food.

We’ve lumped a lot of disparate diets into this category. Even though they vary widely in terms of ingredients, “rawness,” manufacturing process, finished form, and protein and fat levels, what all of these diets share is their high inclusion of high-quality animal protein and fats, and a method of preservation that only lightly alters or damages the nutrients in the food: drying. The idea is to remove moisture from the food; the less moisture that is contained in a food, the longer its nutrients will remain unspoiled and available to the consumer (your dog).

Drying can be accomplished at low temperatures, but it takes longer and leaves meats and fats vulnerable to oxidation (spoilage); most dried foods are prepared with temperatures of 140ºF to 180ºF. (Food can rot when kept in temperatures between 140ºF to 32ºF; If it’s held in temperatures colder than 30ºF, it freezes; if it’s exposed to temperatures higher than 180ºF, it will start to cook.) Dehydrators actually lightly cook the food as it dries, altering the cellular structure of meats, fruits, and vegetables. In contrast, proper freeze-drying doesn’t affect the appearance or taste of foods as much.
Freeze-dryers expose foods to low temperatures, freezing them relatively quickly, and then to high air pressure (freeze-drying machines resemble large pressurized gas tanks). When the pressure inside the chamber is high enough, small heating units are turned on, heating the trays that the food sits on, and causing the frozen water (a solid at that point) in the foods to transform into a gas (water vapor). Pumps pull the vapor out of the chamber while keeping the internal air pressure high. The term for freeze-drying is sublimation: the act of a solid shifting directly into a gas.

It sounds radical, but the process actually leaves most foods less damaged than dehydration. Freeze-drying doesn’t shrink or toughen most food ingredients, and it leaves most aromas and flavors in the food intact. There are some food compounds that don’t freeze-dry well; those that contain vinegar or alcohol don’t sublimate nicely, but these are not common ingredients in canine diets!

Some owners seek out these diets specifically for their rawness; they believe feeding raw meat is natural and beneficial to their dogs. If a raw diet is your chief motivation for considering these diets, avoid the products that contain dehydrated ingredients in favor of the ones that contain freeze-dried ingredients.

See a list of the best freeze-dried raw dog foods here.

Other Benefits of Dehydrated Dog Food

In addition to being (mostly) raw and lightly processed, dehydrated diets offer a number of other benefits to dogs – and their owners.

Very low-moisture foods can be stored longer at room temperature (in unopened packages) without spoiling or rancidity than conventional kibble. Most dehydrated diets contain less moisture than conventional kibble, which generally contains about 10 percent moisture. The less moisture there is in a food, the less biological activity can occur.

Dehydrated foods weigh less and are more compact than foods containing more moisture. This makes them especially well suited for travel. It also means they cost less to ship.

When rehydrated, these foods are highly palatable to most dogs. It may be due to the concentration of flavor in dehydrated food ingredients or their light processing.
As a generalization, the makers of these products are targeting the top end of the market, and have an extraordinary commitment to sourcing top-quality ingredients. In many cases, “human-quality” (“edible”) ingredients are used, though only one company can legally make this claim (The Honest Kitchen, because every single ingredient in the product is human-quality (the legal term is “edible”) and the products are made at a human food manufacturing plant.

The Different Kinds of Dehydrated Dog Food

As we mentioned earlier, the dried foods discussed here are diverse in content, appearance, and form. Some contain grains and some don’t. Some include lots of vegetables, fruits, and herbs, and some are almost all meat. Some utilize organic ingredients, and some don’t. And some manufacturers utilize pasteurization of some kind, and some don’t. (For more on this, see “Safety Issues,” below.)

Most of these products are meant to be rehydrated with water, though most can be fed without rehydration.

Some of these products are presented in a dried “patty” or “medallion” form; others have been dried into nuggets or dried and then sliced into cubes. Others are very powdery, which makes them turn into a sort of mush or gruel, depending on how much water you add. Still others have relatively large chunks of identifiable dehydrated meats, fruit, and/or vegetables mixed into a powdery meat base. This can be either an advantage (if your dog enjoys the contrast in taste and mouth-feel) or a disadvantage (if your dog seeks out only the chunks or mush and eschews the other).

The most significant difference between these foods and more conventional commercial products, though, is the high fat and, to a slightly lesser extent, high protein levels that most contain. Some are very high in fat and protein; others compare in these respects to conventional kibble. Always check the guaranteed analysis when switching to a product in this category; they are so nutrient-dense that you may have to significantly reduce the volume of food that you feed your dog in order to prevent him from gaining too much weight.

The Cost of Dehydrated Dog Food

The cost of feeding this sort of diet may be prohibitive for many dog owners. These products are pricey. In general, the freeze-dried products cost the most, because freeze-drying is an energy-intensive process. (For what it’s worth, however, shipping costs of these light-weight foods are minimal!) My guess is that they are fed mostly under the following conditions:

– Cost is not a factor (wealthy owner).
– Owner has one dog, or very small dogs (and so won’t need to buy large amounts).
Products are used as “complete and balanced” training treats, rather than sole diet.
Owner usually feeds a raw diet (home-prepared or otherwise) but is traveling, so one of these diets is used short-term replacement.
– Dog is extremely picky (and thin), but will eat these foods with relish. (We frequently hear about this with the freeze-dried foods, which seem to retain their palatability very well.)
– Dog’s health is generally precipitous, but currently well-managed thanks to one of these diets, so it makes the most sense to “pay for the food, rather than the vet.”
– Dog’s health is poor, and these highly palatable products are being used as a short-term tactic to keep him eating.

Safety Issues with Raw Dog Food

Raw diets aren’t for every dog or owner. These foods will be especially attractive to owners who already feed a raw diet to their dogs, or who have researched raw diets and who are ready to take responsibility for feeding their dog a raw diet (and perhaps, have the support already of a veterinarian who is comfortable with and knowledgeable about raw diets).

If you are fearful about the potential for exposing your dog to pathogenic bacteria such as Salmonella or Listeria, or you have an immune-compromised dog, you may want to either skip these diets, or seek out the ones who pasteurize their products and utilize a vigorous “test before releasing” program, such as Stella & Chewys.

Understand that experienced raw feeders, as they are known, are not afraid of these bacteria. They frequently point out that there have been far more recalls of conventional kibble that is “contaminated” with Salmonella than raw food products, and very few dogs have gotten ill as a result of eating these foods. Dogs have much sturdier digestive tracts than humans, and only very rarely have a problem eating food that is contaminated with these bacteria. (Dogs with compromised immune systems, like humans with similar conditions, would be most at risk.)

Some companies use high pressure processing (HPP, also known as high pressure pasteurization or Pascalization) to kill any pathogenic bacteria that might be present in the food; others use HPP only on products that contain poultry (the most likely meat to be contaminated with bacteria); and still others rely entirely on buying the best possible meats, handling them with care, and using superior sanitation throughout the manufacturing process. Ask the maker of the food you are considering what they do (or don’t do) to pasteurize their products.

Our List of Approved Dog Foods

ATTENTION: In March 2018, Whole Dog Journal published a new, updated list of approved freeze-dried raw dog food.

The companies we’ve highlighted on the following pages make extremely good dog foods, but as always, only you can determine which ones are right for your dog and your budget. As a comparison tool, we selected one variety from each manufacturer and listed its ingredients and guaranteed analysis. To help directly compare the unique formulation approaches taken by each company, we selected the “beef” formula whenever that variety was available.

Games for Building Reliable Recall Behavior for Your Dog

Games for Building Reliable Recall Behavior for Your Dog

I love incorporating play and training, especially when training recalls. The recall is a really important behavior – one that can mean the difference between your dog having to stay on leash or having leash-free romp time. It is also a life-saving skill – like when a dog is running toward a busy road, and you need him to respond to your cue to return to you, quickly! But teaching the recall behavior to your dog can be challenging – and sometimes a little overwhelming.

Take some pressure off by turning your recall practice into fun and games. This can help you and your dog enjoy the training and take it to the next level. Some of these games focus on a specific element of “Come,” while others help build enthusiasm for the recall.

The Keep Away Game

One of the most important elements of coming when called is what your dog does when he gets to you. Dog trainers call this the “finish” or end behavior. To play the “Keep Away” game, first think about what you want your dog’s end behavior to look like. Get a really clear picture in your head. Here is my picture: My dog runs up to me, flies into a sit, and makes eye contact. Some people want their dogs to run up and stand, touch a hand target, or run to their side into the heel position. All are great choices.

Now that you have a picture in your head, help your dog understand what you would like her to do. For a sit-in-front finish, back one step away from your dog, say “Come!” (or whatever your recall cue is) and encourage her to follow. As she comes up to you, ask for a sit, and when she does it, click – or use another marker, such as the word “Yes!” – and reward your dog with a tasty high-value treat. Practice your finish behavior in a low-distraction environment until your dog understands what to do when he hears “Come.” (Dogs usually get it in a few short sessions.) This is where the real fun begins!

Now that your dog knows that “Come” means move toward you and sit in front of you, you can make it more exciting and interesting by adding in the “keep away” piece. Complete the exercise as described above, and then, immediately after rewarding your dog, turn 90 degrees, and say “Come!” while moving a few steps away.

Click (or “Yes!”) and treat when your dog catches up and does the finish behavior. Repeat with the excited attitude of “You can’t catch me!” and then celebrate when your dog does! Gradually make this more fun and more difficult. For example, once your dog is finding your front easily, say “Come” and then turn and run in the other direction for a few steps before you stop. Your dog will enjoy the chase and have fun practicing the finish.

Tips: Be exciting. Use high-value rewards, such as great food treats, tug games, or chase games to build enthusiasm. If you can’t move quickly or run, try tossing your treat rewards a short distance away so that your dog has to run back to you to play again.

Whiplash Head Turn

Where the “keep away” game trains the end behavior of a recall, the “whiplash head turn” exercise trains the beginning – when your dog turns his head quickly away from something interesting and re-orients to you. There are tons of versions of this game. Here is one of my favorites.

Start with tossing a treat a few feet away from you so that your dog moves away to get the treat. I like to say, “Get it!” as I toss so she knows she has permission to eat it. As your dog is finishing the treat (but before she looks back at you), say her name. As her head turns in your direction, click or “Yes!” and give him a really awesome reward – something super special. Then repeat, gradually tossing the treats a little farther away as your dog’s confidence in the game grows.

A fun variation on this game is to toss a treat in one direction, tell your dog to “Get it,” and then, as he grabs that treat, say his name and toss another treat in another direction. Repeat until your dog is racing back and forth. For energetic dogs this is a great way to build excitement for the head turn.

Tips: Timing is important with this game. Be sure to click or “Yes!” when your dog’s head is turning back to you to encourage the speedy whiplash turn. If your dog loves to run, gradually toss the treats farther away so she gets to run more.

Hide and Seek

Hide and seek is a fun game to play in the house, in your garden, or on off-leash walks. It can be played with your dog knowing the game is afoot or as a surprise game, played at unexpected times throughout the day. It helps your dog learn to look for you when she hears your recall word and, when played randomly, it also helps your dog learn to come when she is otherwise engaged.

To get started with the basic game, have your dog wait in one place or one room. If your dog doesn’t know how to wait, you can also have someone restrain or distract her. Go into another room, behind a tree or around a corner and hide. Ask your dog to “COME find me” (emphasize your cue for the recall). When your dog finds you, give a great big happy reward: a game, happy petting, or a special treat. Repeat few times (stop while your dog is really engaged).

Once your dog understands the basics of this game, you can play the surprise version at various points during your day. For example:

When walking at the beach, when your dog is sniffing something, hide behind a nearby rock. Call her “Come find me” and when she finds you, get crazy happy and play one of your favorite beach games such as tossing the ball or running into the water together. Note: If your dog doesn’t head in your direction pretty quickly, pop up from behind the rock and wave your arms so she can get to you.

In the woods, duck behind a tree when your dog is just a little way in front. Call her enthusiastically and when she gets to you, reward her with a small handful of great treats.

When your dog is hanging out at home or cruising the backyard, hide and call, “Come find me!” Reward her with a great game of tug when she finds you.

Tips: When you are away from home, do not make the hiding place too difficult. This may cause too much stress for your dog, which will not be fun. In addition, time your calls so that you know your dog will disengage from his exploring easily. I do not recommend hide and seek as a way to frighten your dog into thinking you’ve abandoned him because he was not paying attention. Make this game fun, upbeat, and full of happy reconnections.

Round Robin Recalls

This is a great recall game that involves two or more people. It is also a great game to play after you’ve played “keep away” and “whiplash head turn.” “Round robin recalls” build on your dog’s ability to turn away from something she likes (a person who has just given her a treat) and run to the person calling her.

teaching dog to come

To get started, you and your game partners will stand about 10 to 12 feet away from each other. If you have two people, you will face each other. With three or more people, create a circle with all of you facing the center. Your dog is with one of the people or in the center of the circle.

One person calls the dog by saying the dog’s name and then “Come!” For example: “Jessie, come!” As the dog looks for the caller, the caller can encourage the dog to come by clapping, opening his or her arms, getting low, cheering, or running a few steps away; encourage your dog in any way except by saying her name or giving the recall cue again.

Once your dog gets to the caller, the caller will click or “Yes!” and reward the dog generously. Each person calls the dog randomly and in no particular order. At first, make it super easy for the dog by keeping the distance close, providing encouragement, and rewarding generously and with enthusiasm. As your dog gets the hang of the game, encourage her to do the “finish” behavior when she gets to the caller.

To make this game more exciting, increase the size of the circle so your dog really gets running. After a few play sessions, try having people move randomly in the area to new spots. This helps your dog start to look for and find the caller. (After dozens of play sessions, my dog will now run across the park to get to us when we play this game. We also move from place to place in the park so that she has to figure out where we are; it’s tons of fun and great exercise for us all.) Do remember that your dog runs a lot in this game; stop while she is enjoying it and before she gets too tired.

Tips: At first, have everyone who is calling the dog use the same treats. But after the dog learns the game, you can vary the types of treats between each person. Just make sure they are all things the dog really loves (silly play, great food treats, or a game of tug).

A Few More Games to Show Your Dog

Here are three more quick games:

Dinnertime recalls. Have your dog sit or down and stay while you prepare his dinner. When his meal is ready, move a few feet away and say, “Come!” When your dog gets to you, put his dinner bowl down. Once your dog is really good at this game, continue to have your dog stay while you take the food bowl into another room. Call your dog to you; getting to eat his yummy meal is the reward.

“You’re the most wonderful dog” recall. Call your dog to you. When your dog comes, get down on the ground and play, play, play for at least three solid minutes. (I love this game because my dog’s reward is also my reward!)

Get the Ball Recall. Have two balls ready. Call your dog to you, and as she comes to you, click or “Yes! for the sit or finish, and then instantly throw the ball. When your dog gets the ball and has turned back toward you, say, “Come!” – yes, even though your dog is already running your way! Click or “Yes!” when your dog gets to you, and throw a second ball in the other direction as the reward. This game can be fast and furious; it’s great fun for ball-crazed dogs.

Be careful to wait and call your dog back to you after she has the ball (so she doesn’t learn that getting the ball is part of the coming when called).

Recall Practice Makes Recall Perfect

Remember, just as when we play any new game with our dogs, it will take a few play sessions for your dog to learn the rules and goals of these “coming when called” games. But once your dog understands and enjoys them, you can get creative, adding challenges to the games, switching rewards, and building up by incorporating more distractions. In addition, make up new games to play and incorporate the things your dog loves into your recall practice. Practicing with games can motivate both you and your dog to train and play your way to a fantastic, impressive recall.

Author/trainer Mardi Richmond, MA, CPDT-KA, lives and works in Santa Cruz, California. She shares her life with her wife and a wonderful heeler-mix. She is the owner of Good Dog Santa Cruz, where one of her specialties is helping people work through recall issues.

Your Dog & The “Placebo Effect”

Most people are familiar with the concept of a “placebo effect,” the perception that a subject’s health improved after the subject unknowingly received an inert treatment that should have had no effect on the subject whatsoever. The assumption is that because we believe that we have received an actual treatment, our mind tells us that we should feel a bit better. Then, amazingly, we do feel better. We notice a reduction in symptoms and ultimately conclude that the “medicine” must be working. The irony is that placebos actually can be powerful medicine (or something), at least for some people, for some diseases, some of the time.

old dog

The effects of placebos in human medicine are well documented. The highest level of placebo effect is seen with diseases that have subjective symptoms that are patient-reported, difficult to measure directly, tend to fluctuate in severity, and occur over long periods (i.e., are chronic). Examples include depression, anxiety-related disorders, gastric ulcer, asthma, and chronic pain. In medical research, an average placebo response rate of 35 percent is reported, with rates as high as 90 percent for some health conditions. By any standard, that is a powerful effect!

Although the reasons that we respond to placebos are not completely understood, medical researchers universally accept the importance of considering them when studying new treatments. Studies of new drugs or medical interventions include placebos as control groups to allow unbiased comparisons with the treatment or intervention under evaluation. Any effect that the placebo group shows is subtracted from the effect measured in subjects who receive the actual medication. The difference between the two is considered to be the degree of response attributable to the treatment. If a placebo control group was not included, it would be impossible to differentiate between a perceived response (placebo) and a real response to the treatment.

Today, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials are considered to be the gold standard of study designs by medical researchers. (The “double-blind” part refers to the fact that in addition to having both a placebo group and a treatment group, neither the researchers nor the subjects know which subjects receive the treatment and which receive the placebo until the trial is concluded.)

Placebos and Our Dogs

So, what about dogs? Can a placebo effect occur with dogs? Possibly, but things work a bit differently where our dogs are concerned.

The first major difference is that dogs are basically always blinded to treatments. Although they may understand that something different is being done to them (or that there is a strange pill buried in that piece of cheese), most people will agree that dogs do not understand that they are being medicated for a particular health problem or are on the receiving end of a new behavior modification approach. As a result, unlike human patients, dogs will lack the specific expectations and beliefs about health interventions that are necessary for a placebo effect to occur directly.

However, in cases where owners or caregivers are required to observe and report symptoms and changes in health regarding the dog’s response to a given treatment, a different type of placebo effect may occur – a “caregiver placebo effect.” As with human maladies, the conditions for which this type of placebo effect has been described in dogs are those that involve subjective measures of health (pain, activity level, appetite) and that have a tendency to fluctuate in severity.

When evaluating a drug for its effect on something that can be measured with objective tools, such as blood pressure, blood sugar, or hormone levels, our subjective opinion of the dog’s response is not relevant. But when the treatment is aimed at something like pain – something that can’t be easily measured with medical tests – our vulnerability to the placebo effect arises again, as recorders and reporters of our dogs’ health and symptoms. While highly communicative in many ways, dogs cannot specifically tell us what part of their body hurts, how intense the pain is, whether it is abating, or by how much. We use our knowledge of a dog’s behavior and body language for clues about how he feels – but how we feel about his situation, symptoms, and treatment may color what we “see.”

Let’s look at two situations where the caregiver placebo effect in dogs has been well observed: osteoarthritis and epilepsy.

Caregiver Placebo Effect Studied

The most common form of arthritis, osteoarthritis occurs when the protective cartilage on the ends of bones wears down over time. It’s a painful and progressive health problem that can seriously impact a dog’s quality of life. Fortunately, a variety of medical and nutritional treatments are available for afflicted dogs, including nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS, such as deracoxib and meloxicam), nutrient supplements (e.g., glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate), and complementary or alternative medicine approaches (such as acupuncture or cold laser therapy).

Researchers who have studied these treatments often use subjective measures of lameness in which dogs’ owners and veterinarians numerically rate their dog’s degree of pain, mobility, and interest in daily activities in response to treatment.

Some studies also include objective measurements of arthritis symptoms – such as recordings of the weight distribution of each leg while standing or the amount of force that is exerted by each limb during movement. In a “static weight bearing” test, the dog is positioned with each limb on a separate scale; dogs with joint pain usually distribute their weight in such a way as to reduce weight bearing on the limbs that are most painful and increase it on the other limbs. In a “force plate” or “force platform” gait analysis, instruments measure the force of the strike of each limb as the dog moves.

In virtually all placebo-controlled studies of osteoarthritis treatments, a substantial proportion of owners (and veterinarians!) have reported improvement in the placebo-treated dogs. However, when measured using weight-bearing techniques, far fewer dogs show actual improvement.

The study: Caregiver placebo effect osteoarthritis1 – Two researchers, Michael Conzemius and Richard Evans at the University of Minnesota’s College of Veterinary Medicine, analyzed data from the placebo control group of another study – a large clinical trial that was testing the effectiveness of a new NSAID. 

All of the enrolled dogs in the NSAID study had been diagnosed with osteo-arthritis and had clinical signs of pain and changes in gait and mobility. This was a multi-centered design, which means that each dog’s own veterinarian conducted the biweekly evaluations of gait and lameness. Both owners and veterinarians completed questionnaires that asked whether the dog showed improvement, no change, or worsening signs of arthritis over a six-week period. Neither the owners nor the veterinarians knew if their dog/patient was receiving the placebo or the new drug.

dog medication

Keep in mind that Conzemius and Evans had nothing to do with the NSAID study; they simply examined data from the study’s placebo control group.

Results: The ground reaction force (GRF) tests remained largely unchanged for the dogs who were given placebos during “treatment.” Of 58 dogs, five (8.6%) had GRFs that worsened over the course of treatment; seven (12%) had GRFs that improved; and 46 (79.3%) had GRFs that remained unchanged.

However, half (50 percent) of the owners whose dogs received placebos stated that their dog’s lameness was improved during the study. Forty percent reported no change, and 10 percent said that their dog’s pain had worsened.

When these owner reports were compared with actual change as measured by the force platform, the caregiver placebo effect occurred in 39.7 percent of owners.

The dogs’ own veterinarians performed no better. A placebo effect occurred 40 to 45 percent of the time when veterinarians evaluated the dogs for changes in gait or pain.

This means that not only were the owners strongly invested in seeing a positive outcome, so too were their veterinarians. This effect occurred despite the fact that all of the human participants were aware of the 50 percent chance that their dog was in the placebo group not the drug group, and that there was no way to be certain which group their dog was in.

The study: caregiver placebo effect and canine epilepsy2 – Veterinarians from North Carolina State University College of Veterinary Medicine and the University of Minnesota used an approach called a “meta-analysis,” which means that the researchers pooled and then reexamined data collected from several previous clinical trials. They reviewed three placebo-controlled clinical trials that examined the use of novel, adjunct treatments for canine epilepsy.

During the treatment periods in each of the epilepsy studies, owners were asked to record all seizure activity, including the length of the dogs’ seizures, the intensity of the seizures, and the dogs’ behavior before and immediately following seizures.

Results: The majority of owners (79%) of dogs who were (unbeknownst to the owners) receiving a placebo reported a reduction in seizure frequency in their dogs over the six-week study period. What’s more, almost a third of the owners (29%) said that the seizure activity decreased more than 50 percent, the level that was classified in the study protocols as indicative of a positive response to treatment.

Why Do Placebos Work So Well?

What’s going on? Well, several things, it appears. The most obvious explanation of the caregiver placebo effect in dogs is that owners expect a positive response when they assume an actual treatment is being administered to the dog.

Whenever we introduce a new medication, diet, or training method and anticipate seeing an improvement in our dog’s health or behavior, we naturally tilt toward seeing positive results and away from seeing no change (or worse, a negative effect). This is a form of “confirmation bias” – seeing what we expect to see and that confirms our preexisting beliefs.

In fact, an early study3 of the caregiver placebo effect in dogs found that when owners were asked to guess which group their dog was in, the owners whose dogs were actually in the placebo group but said that they were certain that their dogs were in the treatment group demonstrated the strongest positive (placebo) response.

Such expectations may be an especially strong motivator when we are dealing with maladies that have affected our dogs for a long time, conditions that infringe upon our dogs’ ability to enjoy life, and for which we feel that we are running out of options.

Osteoarthritis and seizure disorders were the conditions studied in these papers, but I can think of several other common canine health problems for which we caregivers may easily succumb to the power of the placebo effect. These include chronic allergies, adverse reactions to food ingredients, anxiety-related behavior problems, and even cancer.

Another factor that may contribute to the caregiver placebo effect is finding oneself in a state of contradiction. When we invest time and money (and hope) into a new treatment for our dogs, it follows that we will naturally have high expectations that the treatment will work. If it does not, we may experience cognitive dissonance, the uncomfortable feeling caused by holding two contradicting beliefs in one’s mind at the same time. For example, “I was told that giving my dog dried gooseberry rinds would cure his chronic itching; these rinds are expensive and hard to find. He doesn’t seem any better . . . This isn’t a good feeling.”

Psychologists tell us that our brain reduces this discomfort for us – without our conscious awareness – by simply changing our perceptions. In this case, convincing oneself that the dog does seem a bit less itchy, her coat is a bit healthier, and overall, she does really seem to be feeling better, immediately solves this problem for the brain and for our comfort level.

Finally, a related phenomenon that is common enough to have earned its own name is the Hawthorne Effect, also called observation bias. This is the tendency to change one’s behavior (or in our case, how we might report our dog’s behavior) simply as a result of being observed. The Hawthorne Effect suggests that people whose dogs are enrolled in an experimental trial may behave differently with their dogs because they know they are enrolled in a trial that is measuring many aspects of the dog’s life.

In the case of the arthritis studies, owners may have altered how regularly they exercised their dogs, began to avoid behaviors that worsened the dog’s arthritic pain, or began to pay more attention to the dog’s diet and weight.

The point is that when people are enrolled in a research trial or are starting a new medical treatment, or diet, or training program and are being monitored, they will be inclined to change other aspects of how they live with and care for the dog as well. These changes could be as important (or more important) than the actual treatment (or placebo). This is not necessarily a bad thing, mind you, but is another reason why we always need control groups. It’s important to be aware that the thing that we think is working for our dog may not actually be what’s doing the trick.

Take Away Points for Dog Owners

When trying something new with our dogs, might we, at least some of the time, in some situations, be inclined to see improvement when it does not truly exist? When interpreting our dog’s response to a novel therapy or supplement or training technique, are we susceptible to falling for the sugar pill.

It seems probable, given the science. It is reasonable to at least consider the possibility that a placebo effect may influence our perceptions of our dog’s response to a new or novel food, supplement, training technique, or treatment. This is especially true if the approach being tried has not been thoroughly vetted by research through double-blind, placebo-controlled trials.

While the development of new medications, foods, supplements, and training methods is exciting and important, we must avoid the tendency to see improvement from something that is novel simply because we expect and desire it to be so.

Cited References:

1. Conzemium MG, Evans RB. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical 
Association 2012; 241:1314-1319.

2. Munana KR, Zhang D, Patterson EE. Placebo effect in canine epilepsy trials. Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine 2010; 24:166-170.

3. Jaeger GT, Larsen S, Moe L. Stratification, blinding and placebo effect in a 
randomized, double blind placebo-controlled clinical trial of gold bead implantation in dogs with hip dysplasia. Acta Veterinaria Scandinavica 2005; 46:57-68.

Linda P. Case, MS, is the owner of AutumnGold Consulting and Dog Training Center in Mahomet, Illinois, where she lives with her four dogs and husband Mike. She is the author of anew book, Dog Food Logic, and many other books and numerous publications on nutrition for dogs and cats. Her blog can be read at thesciencedog.wordpress.com.

Treatment for Your Dog’s Ear Hematomas

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[Updated January 10, 2019]

If eyes are the windows to the soul, then the ears are its curtains: Whether they are minimalist Roman shades or fringed swags that would make Scarlett O’Hara blush, a dog’s ears frame her face and set off her expression. In other words, while they have a utilitarian function (and an important one at that) they have a cosmetic one, too. So imagine my dismay when I noticed that my handsome old Rhodesian Ridgeback, Blitz – he of the two gorgeously symmetrical triangles held crisply and smartly against his graying face – had what appeared to be a frankfurter growing on the edge of his right ear.

dog ear hematoma

The purplish, sausage-like lump turned out to be an aural hematoma. An accumulation of blood in the ear flap resulting from a broken blood vessel, hematomas are common in drop-eared breeds like mine, though they occur in dogs of all ear types. They are believed to be caused by trauma to the relatively thin tissue of the ear flap, or pinna, often as a result of head-shaking.

The good news about hematomas is that, if left untreated, they are eventually reabsorbed. They will not burst – even though by all appearance they look ready to pop – and the dog is left no worse for wear, except for having to endure the discomfort of a large blood blister weighing down her ear. (There is a great diversity of opinion about just how painful ear hematomas are for dogs, and the only ones who know for sure aren’t talking.)

The bad news is that allowing nature to take its course can have aesthetic implications: As the blood-filled ear flap heals and contracts, scar tissue often develops, causing thickening and wrinkling that make it often noticeably different from its non-clotted counterpart. It’s sort of the doggie version of “cauliflower ear” in boxers (the pugilists, not the canines), whose battered outer ears can become swollen and misshapen, resembling the texture of the vegetable that lent its name to the condition.

In Blitz’s case, I took him to a veterinarian whose expertise in traditional Chinese medicine I greatly admire. But acupuncture and herbs were not options in this case. “Chinese medicine is good for a lot of things,” the vet said with a smile. “But not everything.” His preferred treatment for aural hematomas was to insert a small drain into the ear, which we did. Blitz’s hematoma eventually resolved, and his ear was slightly smaller and a little thicker than it had been before. Not an ideal outcome, but not a terrible one, either.

chihuahua ear hematoma

That seems to be the general theme when it comes to aural hematomas: There are many different methods for treating them, and none is perfect. The overriding challenge is that the hematoma separates the skin from the ear cartilage – sort of like a calzone, to use another food comparison. The inability to get those layers to reattach is what causes the ear to shrivel and become misshapen.

Below are some methods for treating hematomas. Some are mainstays that most veterinarians will recognize; others are relatively new approaches that try to maximize the effort to get the skin and cartilage to start talking to each other again, and one has been used as far back as the time of the Pharaohs – on humans, at least. Remember, though, that taking action is a choice, not a necessity: If you’re okay with that frankfurter shriveling up into a cauliflower, then you can do nothing. Your dog probably couldn’t care less.

Early Intervention

For those who like to incorporate alterative modalities into their dog’s health care, holistic medicine offers maddeningly few options for quickly clearing up hematomas to avoid scarring. Shawn Messonnier, DVM, of Paws & Claws Animal Hospital in Plano, Texas, says he has had “pretty good success” using the homeopathic remedies hypernicum and arnica on smaller hematomas – those that take up one-fourth or less of the ear. “Very often those remedies will help resolve hematomas when they are really small,” he says. But as time progresses, and the hematoma begins to clot and harden, homeopathy can be less effective.

Because eosinophils (a type of white blood cell), and mast cell infiltrations have been found in hematomas, some experts speculate that the blood blister may be a component of an allergic reaction. Veterinarians who use only conventional medicine sometimes prescribe steroids such as prednisone to reduce inflammation, though a 2011 review of treatments for aural hematomas in dogs for the Evidence-Based Veterinary Medical Association found the effectiveness of steroids in resolving hematomas and preventing their recurrence to be inconclusive. Some practitioners use cold-laser treatments to help shrink the hematoma and destroy inflammatory cells.

Ways to Treat a Dog’s Ear Hematoma

Dr. Leni Kaplan, a faculty member in the Community Practice Service of Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine in Ithaca, New York, says if she does decide to treat a hematoma, she will insert a small sterile tube to help the ear drain. (Some vets use a specific draining tube called a cannula; Dr. Kaplan prefers a bovine teat cannula, used to treat mastitis in cows, or just sterile IV tubing sewn inside the ear.)

More important than the kind of drain used is the follow-up care that the dog receives. “The main thing is that the owners have to gently massage the ear” to keep the hematoma draining, Dr. Kaplan explains. “If the owner the doesn’t do any home care, it’s a bloody mess.”

The purpose of a drain or cannula is to keep fluid moving out of the hematoma so that it reduces in size, but a downside is that this method doesn’t do much to compress the skin and cartilage together.

A new surgical approach by Rachel Seibert, DVM, and Karen M. Tobias, DVM, DACVS, at the University of Tennessee, takes the idea of having an active drain a step further by creating negative pressure to constantly suck out liquid even as it brings the separated layers together. With their technique, a large needle is inserted into the hematoma to empty it, then a vacutainer (a sterile tube that creates a vacuum so blood can be drawn out easily) is attached to the ear using a butterfly catheter.

“We started using this technique because it is less invasive than surgery, does not require general anesthesia, and has a similar success rate to surgery without the risks,” Dr. Seibert explains. “The reason this technique works is that it is successful at maintaining contact between the skin and cartilage with constant negative suction.”

Dr. Seibert says the success rate with the negative-pressure drain is similar to treatment with drainage followed by steroid injections, with a recurrence rate of 22 percent. “The pinna is typically minimally distorted or wrinkled using this technique,” she says, “and most cases should resolve within seven to 10 days.”

Though the technique is fairly straightforward, challenges include successfully bandaging the whole affair so that it stays on but doesn’t restrict the dog’s breathing; and making sure the owner replaces the tube at regular intervals, because once it fills to a certain point, suction is impaired.

Surgical Removal of Ear Hematomas

In the quest to get the skin and cartilage of the ear to reattach, many (if not most) veterinarians opt for surgery. The drawback to any kind of surgery is that the dog must undergo anesthesia, and post-operative recovery is relatively more painful.

The procedure involves opening the hematoma surgically with an incision on the inner flap of the ear running in a wavy line; the incision drains the hematoma. Then the incision is stitched up, and more stitches are used in what looks just like a “quilting” technique, with knots on both sides of the ear flap, preventing any part of the ear flap from puffing up with fluid again. Many small stitches are used so there are no large unstitched areas where the blood can accumulate again. (Some vets actually stitch shirt buttons to both sides of the ear to exert more and wider pressure on the flap, literally pressing it together!)

Tina Wolfe, DVM, of Poland Veterinary Centre in Poland, Ohio, prefers the incisional method for a hematoma that is chronic – when it has become firm as a result of clotting and is beginning to be reabsorbed.

“The incisional technique allows for a more complete evacuation of the hematoma once a significant clot has formed, which can help decrease the rate of recurrence,” she explains, noting that the sutures help to promote scar tissue and decrease the space for an additional hematoma to form.

For acute hematomas, where a significant clot hasn’t yet developed, Dr. Wolfe opts for a different surgical technique. With a small skin-biopsy punch – which is traditionally used to extract small circles of tissue to be sent to a laboratory for analysis – she makes a series of small staggered holes along the hematoma on the inner surface of the ear flap. After the hematoma has drained, she places a single stitch through each of the small hole punches, tacking the exposed cartilage to the skin without closing the hole.

Newly formed acute hematomas “are more soft and fluid in nature and will drain readily though the biopsy sites, which allows for continued drainage of the hematoma,” she explains. “The punch-biopsy method also tends to have a high success rate, is quickly and easily performed, and has a good cosmetic result.”

As with the quilting technique, no bandages are necessary, though an Elizabethan collar or other protective device is recommended to make sure the dog does not scratch or shake the ear.

“I prefer either of these techniques to drainage alone or cannulas due to higher rates of success and cosmetic outcomes,” Dr. Wolfe concludes. “Both the incisional and punch-biopsy methods have a lower rate of recurrence than cannulas and needle drainage because the sutures help to promote scar tissue and decrease the space for an additional hematoma to form.”

In a paper published in July, Drs. András Gyorffry and Attila Szijártó of Semmelweis University in Budapest, Hungary, outlined still another operative technique for aural hematomas. With this approach, the hematoma is opened with an incision on the inner flap of the ear running perpendicular to the ear tip. Absorbable sutures that run parallel to the wound are then placed inside the ear tissue, binding together the cartilage and subcutaneous tissue, but not penetrating the skin. After all the stitching is done, the two edges of the incision do not meet, but rather are left a millimeter or two apart, permitting fluid to continue to drain as the ear heals from the inside out.

In a retrospective study of 23 dogs with aural hematomas that were treated with this technique between 2006 and 2012, the authors reported that all but two – or more than 90 percent – healed without any deformity to the ear, and none required additional surgery or had a recurrence. The two cases of misshapen ears were due to a bacterial infection in one and misaligned stitches that permitted wrinkling in the other.

“The new method offers a minor risk of postoperative complications while accomplishing high healing rates,” the authors concluded in their paper.

Leeches for Ear Hematomas

We’ve saved the best – or at least, the most unconventional – for last. In a word: leeches.

These slithery, blood-sucking worms have been used for centuries, dating back to ancient Egypt. Even today in human medicine, leeches are used to drain pooled blood after a digit has been surgically reattached, to treat varicose veins and blocked arteries, and to lessen pain from osteoarthritis. And in dogs, they are most commonly used to treat ear hematomas.

Shelley R. Epstein, VMD, CVH, of Wilmington Animal Hospital in Delaware, has blogged about her experience with leech therapy, formally called hirudotherapy. “No anesthesia is needed; the leeches inject a numbing chemical into the site,” she writes. “It may take a month for the hematoma to fully heal, but the ear is usually normal in appearance afterward.”

According to Biopharm in Hendy, South Wales (“suppliers of leeches since 1812”), ear hematomas in dogs usually call for two to three leeches, and the sooner they are applied, the better. “Leeches can still be used on hematomas that are slightly older and firmer, but in these cases two leech treatments may be required in order to best decongest the blood,” the company explains on its web site. After the leeches are removed, the wound can continue to bleed steadily for as many as 10 hours – ideal in the case of hematomas, where active drainage is needed.

Biopharm describes leeches as “perfectly designed” sucking machines. Leeches have three sets of jaws containing approximately 100 teeth each, and leave a bite mark that resembles the Mercedes-Benz emblem. Along with the natural anesthetic that helps dull the pain of their initial chomp, leeches release several compounds when feeding, including hirudin, an anti-coagulant that maintains blood flow during feeding; and calin, which inhibits clotting for a period afterward. Biopharm acknowledges that as with any treatment, there is a risk of allergic reaction or infection, but notes that it is rare.

In the United States, medicinally farmed leeches are considered a “medical device” by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and their use is regulated by federal law. “Vets have ordered from us,” a terse-sounding spokesperson from Leeches U.S.A. in Westbury, New York, told us; she did not know for what purpose the leeches had been ordered.

Leeches are used for only one treatment, and most meet their demise thereafter. In Dr. Epstein’s practice, they are “retired, and kept in a bowl to swim around.”

The Bottom Line

In the end, it can seem there are as many ways to treat hematomas as there are dogs who develop them. And, depending on whom you talk to, the end results can vary dramatically.

Even though surgery is said to be the best method to avoid scarring and malformation, “I’ve see the ones that have gone to surgery and half of those are as scarred down as those that haven’t,” Dr. Kaplan observes. “And I’ve seen ones where the owners did nothing and their ears look great.”

Still, there are a few constants when it comes to caring for a dog with a hematoma:

If you opt for veterinary intervention, seek it out sooner rather than later, before the hematoma hardens and becomes more difficult to treat.

After the insertion of a device or procedure to drain the hematoma, be meticulous about after care, following your vet’s instructions to keep the hematoma draining and stop fluid build-up.

Avoiding further concussion to the ear is vitally important if it is to stabilize and heal. As annoying or awkward as it is, be sure your dog wears some type of Elizabethan collar to deter scratching and minimize the effects of shaking.

Treat the underlying cause of the head-shaking that produced the hematoma. Otherwise, you are only addressing the symptom and not the cause.

If Blitz were around today, and I had another shot at treating his hematoma, I’d likely pursue some of the newer treatments outlined in this article. Heck, I might even give leeches a try. I’d like nothing better than to find an approach that actually works for this infuriating ear condition – and to keep that head “drapery” as handsome as ever.

Don’t Shake Your Head!

Though the cause of hematomas hasn’t been definitely identified, most veterinarians point to head shaking as the likely culprit. Vigorous or repeated head-shaking can cause a blood vessel in the ear flap to burst and cause acute swelling – but we’ve also seen dogs whose own ID tags have injured their ear flaps during head shaking, initiating the hematoma spiral. So, to keep hematomas from recurring – and to avert their formation in the first place – it’s important to get to the root cause of head shaking and resolve it.

Ear infections are a prime cause of head shaking, and can be persistent and difficult to treat. But once the infection has been brought under control, your work is not done: You need to find out of the source of the imbalance that produced the infection to begin with. Pay attention to whether there has been a change in the dog’s food, supplements, or probiotics; I noticed that even changing my dogs’ diet from raw to home-cooked resulted in an uptick in occasional ear infections.

Another, less obvious cause of head shaking – and the likely cause in Blitz’s case – is a lack of household humidity. Especially in wintertime, household air tends to dry out, and with it the dogs’ skin. An increase in dander makes them itchier, which in turn makes them shake more.

Running a humidifier, boiling a kettle of water, or simply leaving a bowl of the wet stuff out atop a radiator and regularly refilling it can restore much-needed moisture to the household – and stop Fido from flapping.

Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three Ridgebacks, 10-year-old triplets, and a very patient husband. 

Ways to Combat Your Dog’s Indoor Urine-Marking

[Updated August 6, 2018]

I can still remember the day, more than a decade ago, when I first realized with horror that our Scottish Terrier, Dubhy (pronounced “Duffy”), was marking in the house. We were trying to sell our Tennessee home at the time, which made the indoor leg-lifting behavior doubly disturbing. Homes with urine stains and odors don’t show particularly well. Dubhy was young, just over a year old. I wrote off the amber-colored stains I found on the heater vent to not-quite-finished housetraining, redoubled my management efforts, and stepped up the “potty outside” routine. It didn’t help. I began to question my professional dog-trainer credentials. Personally faced with persistent indoor marking, one of the more frustrating challenges dog owners encounter, I was not succeeding at resolving it.

urine marking

Leg-lifting is a natural, normal behavior for dogs, especially (although not exclusively) for males. Of course, like lots of other natural, normal dog behaviors, it’s unacceptable to most owners. Fortunately, most male dogs learn pretty quickly that humans, for some unfathomable reason, don’t appreciate their efforts to tell the world that the house, and all items within in it, are the property of the dog and his family. “Keep your paws off!” he is saying to the world.

Indoor marking is also often a function of stress. Dogs who are anxious about their environment are more likely to mark indoors than those who are relaxed and calm. Stress-related marking is harder to modify than the simple “This is my stuff” leg-lifting. Dubhy was a calm, easygoing, laid-back dude. The idea of stress-induced marking didn’t even enter my mind.

Only after several years had passed did I realize that Dubhy’s indoor marking coincided precisely with the start of his dog-reactive behavior. The dog reactivity emerged as the result of a pair of roaming Labradors Retrievers (who lived a mile away) who repeatedly breached their underground shock fence, visited our yard, and fought through our fence with our indomitable Scottie. I eventually realized well after the fact that the two behaviors were connected. Duh. The stress of the two intruding Labradors set off Dubhy’s marking.

Neutering Usually Stops Urine Marking

In Dubhy’s case, my initial analysis of incomplete housetraining, although incorrect, was not entirely off base. Indoor marking often begins in adolescent males because it is a natural behavior. Those “easy” cases often respond well to standard housetraining protocols: increasing the dog’s management to reduce his opportunity to mark, taking him outdoors to potty far more frequently, reinforcing appropriate elimination outside, and interrupting any leg lifts you happen to see with a reminder: “Oops! Outside!”
Of course, housetraining and/or behavior-modification efforts need to be accompanied by a good clean-up program using an enzymatic cleaner, to eliminate any lingering odor of urine (which invites the dog to mark again). It’s also important to rule out or treat any urinary-tract infections as possible contributors to inappropriate elimination. And don’t forget neutering!

According to Dr. Nicholas Dodman, veterinary behaviorist at Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University, about 60 percent of intact male dogs will stop urine-marking within weeks or months if they are neutered. Other sources claim as high as a 90 percent success rate post-neutering.

Suffice it to say that neutering is a good first step if your dog reverts back to peeing in the house. This is at least in part because intact male dogs will mark everything in response to the scent of a female in season somewhere in the area, and in part because testosterone in general contributes to the motivation to make a “this is mine” statement. Marking by female dogs will also usually resolve with spaying. Of course, the older the dog and the longer your dog has been practicing the marking behavior, the less likely it is that sterilization alone will fix the problem.

Dubhy, however, was neutered some five months before he started marking. That clearly wasn’t the answer to our dilemma. Nor did our return to a basic housetraining protocol stop his behavior.

Stress Generally Causes Dogs to Mark the House

The 10 to 40 percent of dogs who don’t stop their marking after neutering and remedial housetraining efforts are probably, like Dubhy, marking because of stress. In some cases, identifying stressors and removing them can eliminate marking. There are a variety of different strategies for removing stressors. The more stress you can remove, the more likely it is the marking will cease. Other than his reactive aggression toward other dogs, however, Dubhy was a pretty laid-back, mellow guy. We had talked to the neighbors on several occasions about keeping their wandering Labrador Retrievers at home, but Dubhy really didn’t seem to have a whole lot of additional stress in his life.

Exercise is an excellent stress reducer that can help your indoor-marker feel less compelled to lift his leg in your living room. Vigorous off-leash aerobic outings can work wonders with a variety of behavioral issues, as can force-free training routines that require a dog to think, and that tire him mentally. Products such as Adaptil (plug-in pheromone diffuser) can also be effective in decreasing stress levels for some dogs, as can calming massage, aromatherapy, and musical products from Through a Dog’s Ear (see “5 Things to Do if Your Dog Needs Cage Rest,” (August 2014).

How to Manage Urine Marking Indoors

Dr. Dodman suggests that dogs who persistently mark indoors and don’t respond to neutering and housetraining protocols almost always need anti-anxiety medication to resolve the problem. Indeed, pharmaceutical intervention can be quite successful, especially when combined with an ongoing behavior modification program.
Many dog owners prefer to avoid medication if possible, and choose, instead, to use a belly band for their indoor male markers (diapers are necessary for females). This is a reasonable solution to a vexing problem, if the dog accepts the device easily. If the dog can routinely Houdini his way out of the band, or is clearly distressed by wearing it, then it’s not a viable option and medication is a better choice.

We opted for management with Dubhy. He happily accepted his belly band, lined with a sanitary pad, and stood quietly when I told him it was time to put his pants on. Delivering a treat after applying the belly band helped keep him happy about the procedure. He would still mark into the band, so I had to change it as needed to prevent urine burns on his sensitive, bare abdomen.

Our earlier housetraining effort had at least succeeded in convincing Dubhy not to mark in our presence, so he could go pants-free when the family relaxed together evenings in the living room, and for sleep-time overnight in our bedroom. We used baby gates and closed doors to keep him in view. It was only for his unsupervised house-time that the band was required. Sure, I occasionally grumbled internally about the inconvenience of replacing pads and laundering belly bands, and groused out loud when he occasionally managed to pee out from under the band and I had to do clean-up duty, but it allowed us to have a peaceful life with our boy who might otherwise have been the source of much angst over the years.

We lost our beloved Dubhy a few months ago to lymphoma – a nasty and aggressive cancer. We miss him a lot. I’d give anything to have the privilege of putting belly bands on him again.

Ways to Approach Your Dog’s Pee-Inducing Stressors

I utilize five strategies for dealing with stressors. When I’m working with a client whose dog has stress-related behavior issues such as marking, aggression, or generalized anxiety, we list as many stressors as we can think of, assign one or more strategies to each stressor, and agree on which ones we will actively work on. Removing stressors doesn’t necessarily make the unwanted behavior go away, but it does make your behavior-modification efforts much more likely to be successful.

Here are the strategies:

1. Get rid of it

Get rid of anything aversive that causes unnecessary pain or stress, including shock collars, choke chains, and prong collars, and penny cans or throw chains. Even head halters, considered by some trainers to be positive training tools, are aversive to many dogs.

2. Manage your dog’s exposure to the stressors

If your dog isn’t fond of small children and there are none in your life (and he doesn’t encounter them regularly in your neighborhood), you can manage him (as I did) the one time each year your sister comes to visit with your young niece and nephew, by keeping him in another part of the house when the kids are awake and about.

3. Change his association to the stressors

Convince him that something that stresses him is actually very wonderful by pairing it consistently with something else wonderful. If your dog is stressed by men with beards, you can convince him that men with beards always make chicken happen by having a bearded man appear, and feeding your dog bits of chicken, over and over and over again, until he wants furry-faced men to appear so he can have more chicken. The key to successful counter-conditioning, as this process is called, is to always keep the dog below threshold; you want him a little aware of and worried about the aversive stimulus, but not quaking in fear or barking and lunging. (See “Counter-Conditioning,” below.)

4. Teach him a new behavior around the stressors

Perhaps your dog becomes highly aroused by visitors coming to the door. He’s not fearful or aggressive, but the high arousal is a stressor. You can teach him that the doorbell is his cue to run and get in his crate, where he’ll receive a stuffed Kong or other doggie delectable (see “Unwanted Barking at the Front Door,” February 2010). Or you can teach him that visitors will toss toys for him to chase if he sits politely when the door opens.

5. Live with the stressors

You don’t have to actively do something about every stressor in your dog’s world; every dog can tolerate some level of stress and a few stressors. Just try to do something about the ones that are easy to manage or remove from his environment, and be conscious that when he’s being exposed to the ones that you can’t do much about (say, sounds of construction coming from the building project next door), he may be more likely to exhibit urine-marking or other stress-related behaviors at that time.

Counter-Conditioning Urine Marking

Counter-conditioning involves changing your dog’s association with a scary or arousing stimulus from negative to positive. The easiest way to give most dogs a positive association is with very high-value, really yummy treats. I like to use white meat from chicken – canned, baked, or boiled, since most dogs love chicken and it’s a low-fat food.

Here’s how the process works:

1. Determine the distance at which your dog can be in the presence of the stimulus and be alert or wary but not extremely fearful or aroused. This is called the threshold distance.

2. With you holding your dog on leash, have a helper present the stimulus at threshold distance X. The instant your dog sees the stimulus, start feeding him bits of chicken, non-stop.

3. After several seconds, have the helper remove the stimulus, and stop feeding chicken.

4. Keep repeating steps 1-3 until the presentation of the stimulus at that distance consistently causes your dog to look at you with a happy smile and a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” expression. This is a conditioned emotional response (CER) – your dog’s association with the stimulus at threshold distance X is now positive instead of negative.

5. Now you need to increase the intensity of the stimulus. You can do that by decreasing distance to X minus Y; by increasing movement of the stimulus at distance X (a child walking, skipping, or swinging her arms); by increasing number of stimuli (two or three children, instead of one); increasing the visual “threat” (a tall man instead of a short one, or a man with a beard instead of a clean-shaven one); or by increasing volume (if it’s a stimulus that makes noise, such as a vacuum cleaner). I’d suggest decreasing distance first in small increments by moving the dog closer to the location where the stimulus will appear, achieving his new CER at each new distance, until he is happy to be very near to the non-moving stimulus, perhaps even sniffing or targeting to it.

6. Return to distance X and increase the intensity of your stimulus (move the vacuum a little; have two children instead of one; have the man put on a hat, or a backpack), gradually decreasing distance and attaining CERs along the way, until your dog is delighted to have the moderately intense stimulus in close proximity.

7. Now, back to distance X, increase intensity again, by having your helper turn the vacuum on briefly, feed treats the instant it’s on, then turn it off, and stop the treats. (Or turn up the volume, or add more children, etc.)

8. Repeat until you have the CER, then gradually increase the length of time you have your dog in the presence of the increased-intensity stimulus, until he’s happy (but not aroused) to have it present continuously.

9. Begin decreasing distance in small increments, moving the dog closer to the stimulus, obtaining his new CER consistently at each new distance.

10. When your dog is happy to have the higher-intensity stimulus close to him, you’re ready for the final phase. Return to distance X and obtain his new CER there, with a full-intensity stimulus – a running, moving vacuum; multiple children laughing and playing; a tall man with a beard wearing a hat, sunglasses, and a backpack. Then gradually decrease distance until your dog is happy to be in the presence of your full-intensity stimulus. He now thinks the stimulus is a very good thing, as a reliable predictor of very yummy treats. In the case of a human stimulus, you can gradually work up to actual interaction with the human(s) at this stage, by having the person(s) drop treats as they walk by, then letting him take treats from their fingers – without direct eye contact, and eventually working up to normal interaction.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog-training classes and courses for trainers.

Consider Dehydrated Dog Foods for Your Dog!

Occasionally we are asked to rate the various options that owners have for feeding their dogs, based on the relative “healthiness” of each major type of food: home-prepared (raw or cooked); commercial raw, frozen diets and freeze-dried or dehydrated raw diets; canned food, and kibble. Actually, in our opinion, that list of food types is ranked accurately right there, from best to worst, in terms of their potential for improving or supporting a dog’s peak health.

honest kitchen dehydrated dog food

On what do we base that ranking? While it’s difficult to get nutritionists to agree on just about anything, it’s likely that most would agree on the following general idea: that a diet that was formulated to be “complete and balanced” and comprised of fresh, lightly processed or unprocessed species-appropriate ingredients is healthier than a “complete and balanced” diet containing highly processed ingredients that are uncommonly consumed by a given species in nature. That general theory explains our high esteem for the dehydrated and freeze-dried diets that we’ve listed and described in our WDJ 2014 Dehydrated Dog Food Review 

We’ve lumped a lot of disparate diets into this category. Even though they vary widely in terms of ingredients, “rawness,” manufacturing process, finished form, and protein and fat levels, what all of these diets share is their high inclusion of high-quality animal protein and fats, and a method of preservation that only lightly alters or damages the nutrients in the food: drying. The idea is to remove moisture from the food; the less moisture that is contained in a food, the longer its nutrients will remain unspoiled and available to the consumer (your dog).

Drying can be accomplished at low temperatures, but it takes longer and leaves meats and fats vulnerable to oxidation (spoilage); most dried foods are prepared with temperatures of 140ºF to 180ºF. (Food can rot when kept in temperatures between 140ºF to 32ºF; If it’s held in temperatures colder than 30ºF, it freezes; if it’s exposed to temperatures higher than 180ºF, it will start to cook.) Dehydrators actually lightly cook the food as it dries, altering the cellular structure of meats, fruits, and vegetables. In contrast, proper freeze-drying doesn’t affect the appearance or taste of foods as much.

Freeze-dryers expose foods to low temperatures, freezing them relatively quickly, and then to high air pressure (freeze-drying machines resemble large pressurized gas tanks). When the pressure inside the chamber is high enough, small heating units are turned on, heating the trays that the food sits on, and causing the frozen water (a solid at that point) in the foods to transform into a gas (water vapor). Pumps pull the vapor out of the chamber while keeping the internal air pressure high. The term for freeze-drying is sublimation: the act of a solid shifting directly into a gas.

It sounds radical, but the process actually leaves most foods less damaged than dehydration. Freeze-drying doesn’t shrink or toughen most food ingredients, and it leaves most aromas and flavors in the food intact. There are some food compounds that don’t freeze-dry well; those that contain vinegar or alcohol don’t sublimate nicely, but these are not common ingredients in canine diets!

Some owners seek out these diets specifically for their rawness; they believe feeding raw meat is natural and beneficial to their dogs. If a raw diet is your chief motivation for considering these diets, avoid the products that contain dehydrated ingredients in favor of the ones that contain freeze-dried ingredients.

Check out our complete review of the top Dehydrated & Freezer-Dried Dog Foods by clicking here or following the link at the top of the page.

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What Your Dog Remembers

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It never fails to surprise and amaze me: we were hiking recently along on a trail where we haven’t been for months and months and Otto stopped suddenly and started scanning a certain tree. The other dogs paused for a second, too, taking their cues from Otto, as if to say, “What’s up, guy?” And then, just as quickly, they moved on, even as Otto stood transfixed, sniffing the air and scrutinizing that tree – the one where he came closer than he did before or has since to catching a squirrel. Obviously, that close call with the squirrel was not as significant for me as it was for Otto, but when he stops and clearly remembers that place and looks for signs of other potentially catchable squirrels, of course, then I remember, too.

And it’s obvious to me that he does remember that moment, because clearly he’s seensquirrels in countless places, and chased them in dozens of places. But only in that one place did he catch a squirrel so unaware, running up so swiftly behind it, that it caught a glimpse of Otto and sprang for the tree with only inches to spare. Otto could practically feel the squirrel’s tail hair on his nose. And then, of course, it clung to the tree above him, chattering and chirping with alarm and, perhaps, squirrel verbal abuse, and knocking bits of bark down around him. A dog remembers that sort of stuff; I don’t, until Otto stops and stares at the tree where it all happened one day, at least three years ago.

There is one other place that Otto always remembers, where we once startled a veritable herd of deer, at least 20 of them, early one morning. The herd took off bouncing and leaping through the brush and across a ravine; we were on one side of it, and they crossed the creek and bounded up the other side. He had started to chase them and I called him back; then, when they were all out of sight, I let him run down into the ravine and fill his nose with their scent. It must have been very powerful – perhaps the whole herd had been sleeping there – and he spent a long time running back and forth in the ravine, sniffing. Every time we walk down the dirt road that leads to that ravine, he will at some point stop trotting and slow to a walk, and the closer we get to the spot where we saw all the deer, the slower he will walk until he is stalking, one paw at a time, while scanning the ravine and lifting his nose for any deer scent.

Of course, our dogs remember our friends’ and relatives’ houses, and going to the vet, groomer, boarding kennel, daycare, or dog park. In some of these places, they exhibit behavior that looks fearful or apprehension, and in some of these places they exhibit what looks like joyful anticipation. I suppose that behavior experts would say that it’s simply that they have formed positive or negative associations with things that happened to them, and have expectations that the similar positive or negative things might happen to them again in those places. I think those things are true – but I’m also certain that Otto remembers that squirrel, and the sensation of its tail hair on his nose, and the way it rained down tree bark and abuse on him.

Do your dogs remember certain places or events? 

Do Dogs Dream?

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My old Border Collie Rupert used to herd in his sleep. Which was funny, because he was a failed sheepdog who never showed a sign of wanting to herd any animal when he was awake. But when he dreamed, his ankles flexed in a galloping rhythm and his lips curled and his eyes rolled around as he herded sheep. I’m sure of it.

Do dogs dream? And if so, do they dream about what it looks like they dream about? I am not aware if there has ever been a brain-wave researcher with enough time and funding on his hands as to try to determine if dogs really do dream, but I hope so. And why do all dogs seem to have different dreaming recurrent themes, much as we do?

Rupe always seemed to be dreaming about running and dodging about. Otto has much more stressful guarding/fighting dreams. He growls and woofs and makes very fearsome snarling faces, and sometimes, immediately after a bout of sleep-growling, he’ll whimper and yelp as if hurt or scared, and wake up with a start. He will then immediately look somewhat embarrassed. It’s exactly that, “Oh man, did I just have the scariest dream!” look.

Do Dogs Have Nightmares?

But this is the cutest thing, and why I was finally inspired to write this blog: Cole, my son’s almost one-year-old coonhound-mix puppy, wags his tail in his sleep. And he had a big, long, thumpy coonhound tail, which is what has alerted me to this phenomenon. At least five times in the past couple of weeks as I’ve been dog-sitting my son’s dog, I’ve been working at my computer when I heard a loud “Thump thump thump thump” behind me, and when I turned to see what was making the noise, there is Cole, sound asleep, with his tail wagging up a storm. His eyes are twitching in REM sleep, and he has twitchy muscles elsewhere, but mostly, that tail is going. I have tried and cannot ever seem to get the video camera on my phone going in time to capture this – my chair squeaks as I turn to reach for it or something, and he wakes up – so you are going to have to trust me when I say it’s about the cutest thing ever. He’s a sweet, sweet, easygoing guy, very mellow and fun-loving, and it totally fits that if he’s having dreams, he’s wagging his tail in them. I just wish I could capture it on video.

Do your dogs dream, do you think? Do they seem to have recurring dreams?

Perfect Playmates

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Is there anything as good as the perfect playmate for your young, playful dog? One who is about the same size and weight and has the same style of play as your dog?

I’m dog-sitting my son’s dog, Cole, for three whole weeks while he travels out of the country for his sport. Cole is a coonhound/Lab-mix, just about at the one-year mark – grown-up enough to not offend my now-seven-year-old Otto with his very presence on the planet, but young enough to still crave daily sessions of play. In preparation for his stay, I bought extra Tricky Treat balls (by Omega Paw, love these) for him to bat around, as well as extra raw bones. Plus I’ve been taking all the dogs (my big mixed-breed dog Otto, Chihuahua-mix Tito, and Cole) out for off-leash runs and swimming sessions in the river – anything to try to tire him out and keep him well-behaved and out of trouble (that is, out of the chicken pen, out of my raised beds in the garden, out of the neighbors’ hearing range, etc.).

But absolutely nothing trumps the entertainment value of playing with another young dog – and Cole hit the jackpot today. My husband and I rent rooms in the house where I have my office (two blocks away from our home) to students who attend a local trade school. There is a new term every four months, and today some new students arrived. One young man was accompanied by his older brother, who had attended the same school a few years ago and who brought his 11-month-old female Boxer along for the car ride. I asked whether the dog could play with Cole, and the Boxer’s owner said that would be great – and for the next two hours, the young dogs played, and played, and played.

Both young dogs enjoyed racing around the backyard, chasing each other up and down the stairs to the back porch, and wrestling on the porch sofa with toys. They grabbed each other’s legs, chewed each other’s necks, and threw themselves on top of and underneath each other in total joy, and with total comfort with each other. Neither dog was overwhelming to the other one, neither one was afraid of the other; it was as if they were raised together since they were puppies. It was a warm day, and their tongues were soon dragging, so I took the opportunity to hose off the dusty porch, and both dogs enjoyed running through the spray, which helped keep them cooler. It was a beautiful thing to see. And more beautiful yet: since they left, Cole has been sound asleep for about four hours. I’m not sure he’s going to move until tomorrow. If only that dog lived close by!

Adoption Counseling

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In early June I wrote a blog post about helping a friend find an appropriate dog for his family, which includes a two-year-old girl. He hadn’t owned a dog for many years, and had lots of questions before and after taking custody of a prospect I found for him in my local shelter. In the blog post, I marveled at the number of things we discussed over a few-week period regarding the dog’s behavior, training, health, and diet. I offer all of my friends and relatives free “tech support” for any dog they adopt through my local shelter, both to help them select the best candidate for their home, family, and circumstances, and to make sure that they all get off on the right foot together.

If only my local shelter, and ALL shelters, had funding to support an adoption counselor who could provide this service to all of their adopters. There are an unbelievable number of things that can go wrong, or cause an adopter to have reservations about their new dog, that can quickly doom the dog’s placement.

For example, the dog I placed with my friend and his family: It didn’t work out, but not for lack of trying. The family really liked the dog, but over time, it became evident that the dog was not comfortable with the child. Because I strongly feel that dogs who live with kids ought to be especially forgiving of human behavior and sincerely like kids, I had spent a few weeks with the dog before placing her in my friend’s home. I observed that the dog was uncomfortable with small kids at first ­ she would actually emit small growls when they first approached her, though her body language stayed loose. I also saw that within a day or two, she grew quite comfortable with both of the kids I introduced her to, my four-year-old niece and my two-year-old grandson. I made sure both kids fed her (or tossed to her) lots of treats, threw a ball for her, kicked a soccer ball with her, and rubbed her tummy (her favorite thing), and as a result, within a few hours, with careful management of both kids and dog, she quickly began greeting both children with eager tail-wagging. She also would grab a toy and attempt to initiate games of fetch with them. So I thought she might do the same with my friend’s daughter.

My friend and his wife really tried to make the placement work, but it was not to be. They experienced some housetraining issues, which I suspected had to do with the dog’s mild separation anxiety. We talked through solutions (baby gates to keep the dog from having access to carpeted areas, supervised pottying rather than putting the dog outside unaccompanied) and got a handle on that. We discussed how one might keep a couch-loving dog off the couch, and whether the household changes they would need to put in place (more gates and closed doors) were worth it to them. But the biggest bugaboo was the fact that the dog and the child did not mesh well. After a two-week trial, though my friend had reportedly carried out all the things I had recommended to improve the dog’s comfort with his daughter, the dog was still frequently greeting his daughter with growls, and had, on several occasions, added an air-snap when the two-year-old approached the dog too exuberantly. I recommended we pull the plug on that placement, for everyone’s safety. I brought the dog back to my home; I’ll keep my eyes peeled for another dog for them – one with no reservations about kids whatsoever.

If my friends hadn’t had a resource to consult, and they had selected the dog right out of a shelter, the dog may have been returned on the first day, after her first potty-in-the-house offense. Or surely, after the second or third day, when they reported that she barked a lot when they left her outside the house alone. They needed some advice for solutions to get through these crises – advice that few shelters can offer. It would have been a real shame for them to give up on a dog over issues that are easy to solve (with the right advice).

It also would have been a real shame if they hadn’t given up the dog over the potentially far more serious problem: her discomfort with the child in the house. They really liked the dog – so much so that they might have hesitated longer to return her, had I not insisted that a two-week trial was more than enough to determine that she was, in fact, getting less tolerant of their daughter, not more comfortable. If this had been a typical shelter adoption, they may have weathered the initial problems they experienced with the dog on their own – only to fall victim to a worse situation.

After near-daily reports from my friend that the dog was still growling at the child, despite their efforts to manage the dog/kid interactions and use counter-conditioning and desensitization, I felt certain that this particular dog/kid situation was untenable – at least without major commitment to scrupulous management and extensive coaching (preferably in-home, private training with a good trainer). In the space of those two weeks, the dog’s growling had not vanished or diminished; she had actually increased the “volume” of her message of discomfort to include air-snaps. The next step was likely to be a bite as the dog tried to get more space between herself and the child.

I shudder to think about how many dogs go home and are put in situations like this where they just can’t win, and when they make an inevitable mistake, are returned to a shelter and forced to pay for it with their lives (because many shelters will consider a dog who bit someone in one home to be too much of a risk to place in any other home). I was proud of my friend for making the difficult decision to return the dog to me, before anything happened that couldn’t be taken back.

I’m now in the process of counseling another friend through early days with the same dog. This friend is single and childless, and loves all the dog’s stock-dog quirks and playfulness. However, my friend works longs night shifts, which pose a challenge for this dog’s separation anxiety. We’ve had to employ melatonin, food-stuffed Kongs and raw bones, a tall baby gate, an extra comfy dog bed, and even an overnight visit with one of my dogs (Tito), to convince the dog that sleeping in the house all night without humans isn’t a sign that her world is crumbling or that she may have been abandoned. Once again, without some guidance, my friend probably would have given up on this dog in the first few days – only this time, it seems like the counseling and advice might result in long-lasting solutions and a solid, happy adoption.

Goodness knows, I’m not perfect. I may have made a mistake in the dog’s initial placement, and a professional trainer would probably have given both of my friends better advice about handling this nice little dog (no dog is perfect, either). But what do most people do when they adopt a dog and then find themselves struggling with behavior or health problems they’ve never before experienced with a dog? In an ideal world, they would have a trainer and a veterinarian all lined up and available to help them, but I’m not sure a single person I have ever known has put these precautions into place ahead of time. And adoption counselors? I’ve heard of them at large shelters in good-sized cities, but my local (small, underfunded, rural) shelter doesn’t have any money to spare for someone of that job description – even though I think they’d have far better adoption rates if they did. A well-trained behavior counselor might even be able to help address the problems that people have with dogs who were not adopted at the shelter — to reduce the owner-surrender rates, too.

Does your local shelter have a behavior and/or adoption counselor? Tell us how they do it.

(The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook Tip #1) Speed Eaters Anonymous

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“I feed my two dogs together, and the smaller one seems to gobble her food without chewing it and then throws it back up a few minutes later. Why does she do this?”

She may be worried that if she doesn’t wolf down her food, your other dog will get some of it. This is rational fear, but her coping strategy isn’t ideal. How about feeding your dogs in separate rooms so the little one feels less pressured by the presence of the bigger dog? If she still eats so fast that she vomits even when she eats in private, then spread out her food over a large surface (such as a cookie sheet) or in several small bowls in different parts of the room so she can’t hoover up her entire meal in one breath. And if you now feed your dogs only once a day, divide the food into two or three smaller meals per day instead. Knowing that her next meal is just around the corner may help your gobbler to relax and enjoy her food less anxiously.

If these measures don’t work and the vomiting continues, make an appointment with your vet to check into the possibility that she’s regurgitation rather than vomiting.

For answers to all your canine health questions – big and small – buy The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook by Betsy Brevitz, D.V.M from The Whole Dog Journal.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”