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Caring For and Preventing Your Dog’s Ear Infections

By
Lisa Rodier
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Severe and/or recurrent ear infections cause more than chronic discomfort or even maddening acute pain for your dog; inadequately or belatedly treated, they can cause total deafness. I once helped transport a rescued Bouvier who had suffered such serious chronic infections that she required a total ear canal ablation (TECA, a procedure in which the entire middle ear canal is surgically removed). While such operations are usually a last-resort effort to both reduce the dog’s suffering and preserve the dog’s inner ear (hearing organ) and ability to hear, in this case, the damage from her many past infections was already done and she was completely deaf.

While such drastic measures may occasionally be indicated for dealing with long-standing ear infections, taking a proactive approach to your dog’s ear health may save her from the need for radical treatment.

Signs of Trouble
If your dog frequently shakes her head, scratches at her head or ears, rubs her head along the carpet or furniture, sits with her head cocked to one side, or whines while doing any of the above, odds are that she has or is developing an ear infection. You may also see some redness at the opening of the ear, sometimes extending outward into the pinna (ear flap).

Normally, a dog’s ear has very little or no discharge, and what little you may observe is a beige/yellow waxy substance. In an infected ear, you may find anything from dry black stuff (usually associated with ear mites) to brown waxy discharge (normal, yeast, or bacterial) to pus (bacterial).

An infection brings inflammation to the area, as the body attempts to flood the infected tissue with pathogen-fighting agents and flush pathogens and damaged cells away. But inflammation is always a double-edged sword, for it also can cause pain as the tissue swells. This is never more true than when the swelling is inside the ear canal – already a small, sensitive space. As the tissue inside the ear swells, the dog’s hearing may be diminished, and his balance may be affected, too. Chronic inflammation can lead to ulceration, scarring, calcification, and even rupture of the ear drum.

The pain and irritation may cause him to shake his head and claw at the ear, damaging the tissue even further and causing even more swelling. Head-shaking and scratching can also cause blood vessels in the flap of the ear to burst, causing the ear flap to swell like a balloon. This very painful condition, known as an ear hematoma, requires immediate veterinary attention. If left untreated, it can cause permanent disfigurement of the ear flap. Chronic ear pain can also cause the dog to develop behavioral issues; he may grow increasingly cranky in general and specifically defensive about being touched on the head – so much so that he reflexively snaps at and bites an unsuspecting person who pats his head or fondles his sore ear.

It’s imperative to get ear infections cleared up as soon as possible and not expect them to resolve on their own.

At the Vet
Heading to your veterinarian for help with an ear infection is always a good idea, especially if you haven’t had previous experience with a canine ear infection and you aren’t certain what it looks like, or if a previously treated infection has recurred. If you are going to take your dog to the vet, don’t clean his ears that day; it maybe helpful for the veterinarian to see the appearance and amount of the discharge.

The vet will clean and examine the ears, and usually will take a look deep inside the ear canal with an otoscope – that is, if the swelling in the ear canal is not too severe. Some brave veterinarians will also put their noses near the dog’s ear and take a quick sniff; the odor of an infected ear is distinctive.

In mild cases, after cleaning the ear well, veterinarians will generally administer and give the owner a topical ear solution containing antibiotic, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory agents. This is typically used for a dog’s first or infrequent ear infection because, no matter what the causative organism, this type of topical will address it. In many cases, that’s all there is to the ear infection event.

However, if the infection recurs, it’s likely that the treatment was incomplete, whether because the solution wasn’t applied as frequently or as well as required (sometimes the outer ear looks good, but the infection continues to fester deep within the ear canal), or because the infectious organisms developed resistance to the antibiotic in the solution. In these cases, we may wonder why the infection keeps “coming back” when, in reality, it never ever went away.

When an ear infection recurs (if not before!), culturing a sample of the exudate is a must, to make sure that the next treatment is targeted to treat the specific pathogen.  Oral antibiotics may be indicated in such severe cases in addition to topical therapy. Note that oral antibiotics are not the first go-to for a one-off ear infection and are rarely successful as the sole therapy.

Chronic cases may also be helped by a Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine (TCVM) approach including acupuncture, and/or when used preventively such as prior to spring/summer if dealing with seasonal allergies. Also, acupuncture and laser therapy can relieve pain associated with infections.

Early Care
Integrative veterinarian Susan Wynn, DVM, CVA, CVCH, AHG, who practices at BluePearl Georgia Veterinary Specialists in Atlanta, believes that learning to identify and detect the earliest stage of infection is a dog owner’s best shot at preventing a serious infection and the need for veterinary attention. The switch from being normal and comfortable to infected can be subtle and fast; the ears may have no redness and then suddenly develop mild levels of redness and discomfort with minimal discharge.

A veterinarian is seen examining a small white dog's ear
This Maltese has a history of recurrent ear infections, and would have benefited from more frequent veterinary and owner care. On this visit, Dr. Diane Castle, of Union Hill Animal Hospital in Canton, GA, found his ear canals so swollen that they could not be examined with an otoscope.

“Infections are usually a secondary problem,” says Dr. Wynn. “People should be watching for the onset of that primary cause, rather than waiting for infections to develop.”

Be vigilant and check your dog’s ears regularly; the moment that you notice redness or discharge, you need to clean the ears. Yeast and bacteria are normal inhabitants of a dog’s ear – in small amounts. A variety of health conditions can cause yeast or bacteria populations to spike; the goal of cleaning is to create an inhospitable environment in the ear for this to occur.

Dr. Wynn likes Zymox Enzymatic Ear Solution, with or without the anti-inflammatory hydrocortisone. (Zymox is available in two formulas: an enzymatic ear cleanser for preventive maintenance, and an enzymatic ear solution for treating mild infections).

Another ear wash that may help prevent infection is Halo’s Cloud 9 Herbal Ear Wash. It contains a variety of essential oils in a base of witch hazel.

This dog’s ear barely resembles an ear. Chronic infections and long-term swelling have caused permanent tissue damage and blockage of the ear canal.

One of my favorite recipes for a cleansing ear wash comes from The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, by WDJ contributor CJ Puotinen. Combine 1/8 teaspoon lavender essential oil with ¾ cup witch hazel, 1 tablespoon powdered boric acid, and ¼ cup aloe vera juice or gel. Shake well before using.

Nancy Kay, DVM, DACVIM, author of Speaking for Spot, has a recipe for a homemade drying agent that involves mixing one part white vinegar, one part water, and one part 70% isopropyl alcohol (avoid the 90% variety). But she cautions that we not use this concoction in our dog’s ears before discussing it with a veterinarian. Dr. Wynn concurs; she says she no longer cleans ears with vinegar/water or vinegar/water/alcohol solutions. While inexpensive, the solutions can cause significant pain if the dog’s ear canals are ulcerated from chronic inflammation.

Others favor cleansing the ear with a solution containing apple cider vinegar, which is often touted for its infection-fighting properties. As healthy as it may be, please note that this vinegar also stings inflamed tissue.

How often you clean your dog’s ears depends on your dog and her lifestyle; for example, dogs who swim regularly may need frequent ear cleaning. But more is not necessarily better; over-cleaning can be too drying and may lead to other problems.

If your dog has very occasional signs of a mild ear infection, cleaning his ears well may stop the infection in its tracks. But if the infection persists or worsens, take your dog to the veterinarian as soon as possible for further investigation.

The Root Cause
In most cases of recurring ear infections, clearing up otitis (inflammation in the ear) is just the start of your work. Figuring out what caused your dog to develop the ear infection is your next assignment.

Far and away, allergies are the most common cause of ear infections. Chronic inflammation, leading to infection as a secondary effect, is most frequently caused by environmental allergies (such as pollen, mold, and dust mites), but food allergies can also cause inflammation. A visit to your veterinarian, or, best yet, a board-certified veterinary dermatologist, will be your best bet for identifying (and then avoiding) the triggers for your dog’s recurrent ear infections.

Joel Griffies, DVM, a board-certified veterinary dermatologist (DACVD) who practices at the Animal Dermatology Clinic in Marietta, Georgia, explains that there are four factors involved in ear infections:

Primary: Allergies or diseases causing immunosuppression

Secondary: Bacterial and yeast infections (many people focus on this, but elimination of the bacteria and yeast often results in only temporary relief)

Perpetuating: Related to swelling of the ear (i.e., anatomical changes such as scarring) that accompanies infections

Predisposing: Excess hair in ear canal, pendulous ears, or very long ear canals

Dr. Griffies feels that the role of swimming (water in the ears) in the development of ear infections is exaggerated. “Most dogs who get ear infections from swimming already had an ear prone to infections. That bit of water may have just pushed the infection over the edge,” he says.

Dr. Wynn emphasizes that it’s important to understand the cause when choosing a treatment. In the case of allergies, she notes, “Most people don’t seem to know that the dog’s allergies must be controlled to prevent the infections, and that isn’t always easy to do.” Treating this kind of recurrent infections with conventional or holistic strategies will fail, she says; finding and preventing the cause (rather than the symptoms) of the infection is the only permanent solution.

Dr. Wynn shares a cautionary tale about a client who had a wonderful agility dog who suffered from recurrent ear infections. When herbal/essential oil treatments didn’t work well, the client consulted with a homeopath – long-distance. Not a veterinarian, and unable to see the dog’s ears, the practitioner  recommended homeopathic treatments and suggested that the continued inflammation of the ear was essentially okay. Two years later, Dr. Wynn saw the dog again. The dog’s ear canals were calcified and the dog had become aggressive due to her constant pain.

The best way to avoid ear infections? Dr. Griffies says, “Probably the best answer can be obtained after an ear infection has occurred. Diagnosing and managing the underlying problem that is causing ear infections is the best method. We have many dogs who initially present for chronic otitis, but once their food allergies or environmental allergies are managed, they no longer suffer from recurrent infections.”

Whole Dog Journal’s Gear of the Year 2014

By
Nancy Kerns
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Toys

Orbee-Tuff® Snoop®

Orbee-Tuff Snoop dog toy

The bulk of Sandi Thompson’s 26 years as a dog trainer has been spent teaching group puppy classes and hosting weekly puppy socials at Bravo!Pup, her training business in Berkeley, California. So she’s been asked (thousands of times) to suggest good toys for puppies and bored dogs. She strongly recommends the use of food-stuffed, interactive toys to help dogs and puppies develop the habit of entertaining themselves. She usually advises owners to buy several types of toys and see what works for their individual dogs, because dogs have their own preference for the “mouth feel” of various toys. Also, she has yet to find a single toy that appeals to all dogs. Or has she?

A couple months ago, Thompson found the Orbee-Tuff Snoop at a dog show, and thought it looked interesting enough to buy and try with her own dogs. The Snoop is made of a squishy, translucent material, and it’s designed to have its center pulled out (it’s hard to describe, see the photo below), so treats can be poured inside and the inner layer folded back into the toy. Dogs can see, smell, and even feel the treats through the material, but they really have to work to get them out – and they do! Some interactive toys are too difficult for puppies; often, they don’t persist long enough to be rewarded with the treats. But with the Snoop, puppies keep at it! Thompson provides three different types of treat balls on the floor at her puppy socials – and says that all the puppies prefer this one. Best of all, unlike a lot of the treat-dispensing toys, the Snoop is soft, so it doesn’t make a lot of noise rolling around on hardwood floors. Note that the Snoop is intended for puzzle-play, it’s not meant for chewing.

Orbee-Tuff Snoop dog toy inside out

You can also make it more difficult for puzzle-savvy dogs to get the treats. After you fill it with food, you can insert a ball (Planet Dog recommends their other Orbee-Tuff balls, but tennis balls work fine) into the center, so the dog has to figure out how to remove the ball before he can start getting the treats. Thompson says, “My dogs love the Snoop, and so do my clients’ dogs and puppies.”

Orbee-Tuff Snoop – $18 
Planet Dog, Westbrook, ME. (800) 381-1516

Soggy Doggy Doormat and Soggy Doggy Super Shammy

Most of us who share our homes with dogs have doormats and employ old towels at the threshold of our homes, in an attempt to reduce the amount of water, mud, sand, and other debris that our canine companions track into the house. A dog who is wet from rain or snow is a particularly potent threat to wood or laminate floors (and of course, carpets and upholstery).

Soggy Doggy Doormat and Soggy Doggy Super Shammy

Here are some products that look better (and work better) than old towels for getting water and mud off of a dog’s coat and paws:

Soggy Doggy discovered a micro-fiber chenille material that can absorb five times as much water as cotton, dries quickly, and is long-lasting and durable. The company uses the material in a doormat (that has a no-slip backing), a dog-drying shammy (featuring pockets at the ends for your hands), and other products. We haven’t tried the other products, but we absolutely love the shammy and the doormat. The mat looks nice, and both tools trap and hold an astonishing amount of water, debris, and hair, and yet can be shaken out easily and quickly dried.

Soggy Doggy Doormat – $40
Soggy Doggy SuperShammy – $20
Soggy Doggy Productions
Larchmont, NY
(877) 504-4811

SafeStix

The Kong Company developed this toy with two canine activities in mind: safe retrieving and tugging (they are not chew toys). Safestix are molded out of a bendable plastic in a shape that will prevent all the kinds of injuries that dogs can suffer from playing fetch with wood sticks. The ball shapes at either end prevent throat punctures or choking (if a dog happens to grab for one end as it hits the ground); and the flexibility of the material means that the dog won’t break a tooth or get hurt if he misjudges the flight of the stick and gets hit in the head when he tries to catch it in the air.

SafeStix dog toy

A Kong representative told us that people who train dogs for law enforcement asked the company to develop a toy that could be used for a quick session of tug as a reward – but one that wouldn’t continue to stimulate the dog when the handler stopped tugging. Apparently, it can be difficult to get these high-octane dogs to let go of (“out”) rope toys, since the rope moves in the dog’s mouth even after the handler stops pulling. So Kong made the toy with a plastic that would be gummy enough to invite a dog to bite down on it, durable enough to resist damage from all that mouthing, but rigid enough so that it would be immediately clear to a tugging dog when the handler said the game was over.

Safestix come in three sizes, from 12 inches to 27 inches. They come in several neon colors for easy visibility, and they float in water, too.
safestix – $6-12 (depending on size)

The Kong Company, Golden, CO. (303) 216-2626

Tucker’s Chicken Breast Treats

We were not fans of dried chicken chews even before China-sourced products began causing dogs to become ill and even die – mostly because these products are so dry that it’s like feeding sharp splinters to your dog. Tucker’s solved both the questionable sourcing and over-dried issues and has completely won us over with its moist chicken treats.

Tucker’s Chicken Breast Treats

The treats are relatively expensive, and if we were feeding something like this to our dogs every day, we’d probably just keep fresh-roasted chicken on hand. The benefit of these is their convenience; they can be kept for weeks or months in your purse, car glove box, or desk, and pulled out just when you need an irresistible, safe, wholesome training treat for your dog.

Tucker’s sources all of its meats in the U.S. and Canada, and only partially dehydrates them before slicing, hand-rolling, and packing each treat in individually vacuum-sealed packages.

The anaerobic environment keeps the meaty treat moist and soft, but prevents degradation or bacterial growth without the use of glycerin or preservatives, so when you peel apart the package, the treat is chewy and appealing as fresh meat to your dog.
All of Tucker’s products are manufactured in a USDA-inspected plant in Wisconsin with human-quality (“edible”) meats. The chicken breast treats come in four varieties: just chicken breast, and chicken breast rolled around a strip of either bacon, dried apple, or dried banana.

Tucker’s Chicken Breast Treats – $27 for 1 lb bag

Tucker’s Bones, Pleasant Prairie, WI. (800) 219-3650

Beds

When we go into pet-supply stores, we’re always drawn to the dog beds; we’re on a perpetual quest for products that are thick enough to provide real cushioning, and yet easy to wash. What we generally find are mats that are thin (though easy to launder) and beds that are thick but either difficult to wash (with covers that are hard to get on and off), that don’t hold up well to washing (we’ve had some that literally fell apart after two washings), or unwashable (with non-removable covers and heavy stuffing). The thin ones – feh! What’s the point of buying something that your dog doesn’t want to sleep on? We admit we have bought our share of inexpensive thick ones that need to be thrown out at some point (because they can’t be laundered), but we don’t feel good about it; it’s a waste of money and bad for the environment. The following products provide the perfect solution: comfortable, washable, durable beds that can stand the test of time.

West Paw Design’s “Eco Nap”

West Paw Design's "Eco Nap" dog bed

Desperation drove us to West Paw Design’s Eco Nap mat. In Otto’s first two years with us, he destroyed at least half a dozen dog beds. If they contained stuffing they got chewed open and de-stuffed. The Eco Nap was the first bed he didn’t eat – and five years later, it’s still attractive and still one of his favorites. The bed is basically a pad made (in Bozeman, Montana!) with a very thin layer of West Paw Design’s “exclusive Intelliloft® fibers” sandwiched between two layers of synthetic fleece (made of the same material, which derives from recycled plastic bottles). The outer edge is stuffed thicker than the center, and yet never drew Otto’s chewing attention the way most “stuffed” beds did. Best of all, while the material is thick enough to provide enough cushioning to draw all the animals in the house to it, it’s light enough to be washed in a regular top-loading washing machine and dryer – no special trips to the heavy-duty machines at the laundromat required. The price might seem high given the simplicity of the product, but these beds hold up to everyday use and washing so well, they have paid for themselves several times over. The Eco Nap comes in five sizes and six colors.

Now that Otto is older and wiser and doesn’t eat beds anymore, we use an Eco Nap on top of a bed that is made with a thick slab of foam (but which has one of those not-durable, hard-to-wash covers).

Eco Nap – $29 (xs, 14″ x 19″) – $99 (xl, 29″ x 41″)

West Paw Design, Bozeman, MT. (800) 433-5567

Purple Pebble’s Cuddle Mat

Purple Pebble’s Cuddle Mat

The Cuddle Mat is a similar “flat mat” type of bed, but is made in the U.S. without any stuffing, out of a high-pile synthetic fleece material that washes easily and dries quickly. Purple Pebble says the material is hypoallergenic and stain-resistant, making the Cuddle Mat ideal for puppies, convalescing dogs, or dogs with sensitive skin.

Because it does not contain stuffing, the cushioning is consistent even after many trips through the washer and dryer – no lumps! We’ve used a Cuddle Mat for over a year, most recently with a teething adolescent dog, and it’s holding up perfectly. The mat comes in one color (“natural”) and eight standard sizes and an “SUV” size. (The company will also make custom-sized products at no premium.) Fold a large one in two, and you may have to physically prevent the dogs and cats from fighting over who gets to sleep on it.

two dogs on Purple Pebble Cuddle Mat

Purple Pebble offers two additional styles of the Cuddle Mat: one with an attached pillow, and one made for use in crates, with a bumper on three sides. (The bumper is the same material as the mat, with scored sides extending about 5″ up the sides of the crate. The bumpers don’t take away from the dog’s space in the crate, nor do they pose a potential safety risk if chewed and ingested).

Cuddle Mat – $28 (xs, 13″ x 22″)- $120 (xxxl, 37″ x 54″)

Purple Pebble, Waldwick, NJ. (201) 444-7439

Cubby

Okay, just one more bed. This one is not only novel, but also fabulously flexible.

Cubby dog bed

“I’m a connoisseur of dog beds, from those impossibly cheap, sawdust-filled rounds of fabric sold at wholesale stores to princess-caliber, canopied numbers worthy of Downton Abbey,” says Denise Flaim, a Rhodesian Ridgeback breeder and regular contributor to WDJ. “By far my favorite is the Cubby. Easily washed and available in lots of fashionable faux furs – chinchilla, anyone? – these are the Transformers of dog beds: They can be flat little circles of plushness, stuffed into themselves to make little nests, or folded in half into den-like ‘cubbies’ that my kids have dubbed ‘dog tacos.’ Whatever you call them, neither my dogs nor I would be without them.”

Adds Flaim, “Bonus: If you have a favorite heirloom blanket or vintage chenille spread that has seen better days, Good Dog Beds can convert it into a fetching custom bed. Now, that’s recycling.”

Cubby beds are made in California, and are available in four sizes and a wide variety of fabrics.

Cubby – $52 (s, 17″ opening) – $202 (xl, 60″ opening)

GoodDogBeds.com, Huntington Beach, CA. (714) 319-0353; 

Help ‘Em Up Harness

The Help ‘Em Up harness is a favorite of canine rehabilitation professionals and puts to shame the idea of using a towel to lift or support a mobility-impaired dog. This well-made, heavy-duty, machine-washable harness is ergonomically designed with soft, comfortable padding and waterproof Neoprene. The harness offers great support for dogs who have mobility issues, allowing them to maintain independence with just a little help from their people. An additional benefit of the harness comes in the form of neuro-stimulation: with the hind-end support linked to the front, the dog’s entire nervous system continues to receive stimulation, reminding his brain that he still has a hind end!

The harness consists of front and back pieces that are detachable from one another, and features two strong, comfortable, rubber handles. The harness can be placed on your dog even when he’s lying down, and is comfortable enough to leave on him all day. For the best fit, consult a veterinary rehab professional.

New for 2014 are features that make using the harness more comfortable for the human handler: a “walking handle” and a “walking leash/shoulder strap,” to provide additional walking assistance and extra leverage when lifting and/or walking.

“I used a Help ‘Em Up Harness with our elderly Bouvier in his later years, and it changed all our lives for the better,” says WDJ contributor and and K9 Nose Work instructor Lisa Rodier.

Help ‘Em Up Harness –
$75-120 (depending on size)

Blue Dog Designs, Denver, CO
(720) 237-6852

The Dog Anatomy Workbook: A Guide to the Canine Body

Anyone with an interest in canine health or canine athletes should run to buy this book. Participants in canine sports and owners nursing dogs with sports injuries would also benefit. The book not only clearly shows all the structures in the dog’s body, but explains how they work, both alone and with related structures – and discusses some of the most common things that can go wrong, from malocclusion of the teeth to hip dysplasia.

Edited by Andrew Gardiner, a veterinarian and clinical lecturer at the Royal School of Veterinary Studies at the University of Edinburgh, and illustrated by Maggie Raynor, a sought-after animal illustrator who lives in Sheffield, England, the book is not an anatomy textbook, but a true workbook. Though there are illustrations, photographs, and even x-rays that depict every muscle, bone, and organ, the book also contains opportunities to color and label bones, muscles, ligaments, organs, and all other systems of the canine body, in order to most thoroughly learn and understand them.
The book has a hard cover but is spiral-bound, enabling the book to lay flat enough to draw and write on. Instruction is given on the proper method for learning anatomy (such as creating lists, devising acronyms, and labeling diagrams), and the “language of anatomy” (directional terms such as cranial, caudal, rostral, etc.) is explained.

The Dog Anatomy Workbook – $45 
Trafalgar Square Books, N. Pomfret, VT. (800) 423-4525

Kool Chamois Pad

The Kool Chamois Pad is a lightweight, PVA chamois pad that, when wet, acts as a cooling mat. Made by long-time dog enthusiast Sandy Teague, the mat is easy to wet, and doesn’t get heavy or bulky like other cooling mats do when water is added.
Lisa Rodier lives in Georgia with a thick-coated dog, Atle, a Bouvier des Flandres (seen modeling with the Kool Chamois Pad). Rodier says she wouldn’t consider making a summer car trip with Atle without the Kool Chamois Pad along for the ride. “We used the mat in Atle’s car crate during multiple-day road trips in the searing summer heat, and he stayed cool and comfortable throughout,” Rodier says. “Although the pad didn’t require frequent re-wetting, doing so was easy.”

The mat’s stock size is 17″ x 27″ and sells for $17. For a large dog like Atle, WetCoat.com is happy to customize the product; Teague sewed two mats together to make one large (33″ x 27″) pad, for just $34. The Kool Chamois is machine-washable, and should be air-dried between uses. While WetCoat.com uses the same material in its cooling coats (the main product they sell), in a pinch, the mat can be draped over your dog’s back to be used as a cooling coat. Simplicity itself!

Kool Chamois Pad – $17 
WetCoat.com, Orlando, FL. (407) 422-2345

Training Your Dog to Be Polite

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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dog relaxing in crowded area

One of the great things about sharing your life with a dog is . . . sharing your life with your dog! True dog lovers always look for opportunities to include their canine companions in their activities. Decisions about recreational selections are often made based on whether the dog can participate or not. A hike in the woods wins over a kayaking trip. An outdoor café gets the nod over a fancy restaurant. Relatives who frown on canines sharing holiday festivities might get passed over in favor of those who welcome your furry family member and even buy her presents.

We applaud those of you who seek to integrate your dogs as fully as possible into your lives. At the same time, we cringe when we see humans in public places allowing their canine pals to commit socially unacceptable acts. Each time this happens, it increases the odds that more public places will be deemed off-limits to dogs, even dogs whose humans are responsible.

There was a time when our society was much more tolerant of “dogs being dogs.” Dogs normally bark at things that are alarming to them, jump on those whom they are glad to see, and eliminate when and where they want to; these are normal behaviors – but not socially acceptable to human society. Our culture’s sensitivity to normal dog behavior (to say nothing of canine behaviors that are louder or larger or more aggressive than average) makes it even more imperative that those who take dogs out in public invest the time and energy to make sure those dogs are model canine citizens. The more crowded, noisy, and busy the environment, the more solid the dog’s behavior should be.

training dog to be polite

This starts, of course, with basic good-manners training, or what some still call “obedience” training. (We prefer the concept of “good manners,” implying the dog’s voluntary self-control, rather than the phrase “obedience,” which suggests submission to authority.) Dogs can learn good manners from a skilled owner working on her own, but for best results, we recommend well-run group classes (positive reinforcement methods, of course!). Group dog-training classes provide guidance and instruction, additional motivation to do the work, an opportunity to practice in the presence of distractions, a controlled situation for dog-and-human socialization, and a supportive social setting for the human to interact with other dog lovers.

In addition, some trainers offer specialized classes to help your dog learn how to integrate into the real world, including sessions that take place on city streets. These classes may be called things like “Real Life Class,” “Downtown Hound, or “K9 Ice Cream Social,” but what they all have in common are lessons to teach your dog to navigate scary sewer grates and manhole covers, and how to relax and be polite when joggers, skateboards, delivery trucks, and parents with baby strollers go past.

Model k9 citizen skills
The model canine citizen should at least be able to do the following half-dozen behaviors fluently and reliably if he is going to be out in public with you:

Walk politely on-leash. This requires that you spend time teaching your dog good leash manners in low-distraction environments, and gradually add distractions as he proves capable of handling them. He should be able to pass by humans and other dogs without trying to investigate or greet them, and sit or lie down quietly at his human’s side if she stops to chat or window-shop. (See “In Pursuit of a Loose Leash,” October 2012.)

Polite greetings. Fortunately there are still plenty of people out there who love dogs, and there will, inevitably, be people who want to interact with your dog in public. Your dog needs to be well socialized so that he can greet people safely, and well trained to greet people politely. Teach him that a self-controlled sit will elicit attention from strangers. If he tends to jump up after the initial polite greeting takes place, end greetings by turning quickly away and tossing a treat for him to chase away from the person he just met. He’ll start to anticipate the turn-and-treat instead of jumping up for more attention. (See “Keeping Four on the Floor,” May 2008.)

training dog to respect ducks

Settle. That outdoor café we mentioned earlier? If you want to take advantage of the ones that allow dogs to frequent the patio, you’d best have a dog who can lie quietly at your feet throughout the meal. You can use a formal “down-stay” or a less formal “settle” or “wait” behavior, but having your dog beg at, or worse, sample food from the table, is unacceptable. (See “Wait a Bit, Stay a While,” May 2001.)

Come. Much of the time your dog is in public he will be on a leash. But if you do have access to off-leash areas or if, heaven forbid, he should somehow slip his collar or otherwise get away from you, you have to be able to get him back. The secret to a solid recall (come) cue is a word that has tons of positive association for him and is never poisoned (i.e., never given a negative association). (See “Rocket Recalls,” September 2012.)

Leave it. Whether you’re walking on a city street or visiting friends in the country, your dog is bound to come across tempting items that you don’t want him to have, whether a bag of fast-food leavings in the gutter, a brazen skunk in the trail, or a baby’s face that’s just begging for a quick kiss! Your cheerful “Leave it” cue will forestall all kinds of trouble. (See “Request for Leave,” August 2008.)

Trade. For those times when the “Leave it” cue didn’t quite come in time, a practiced “Trade” can sometimes save the day. It won’t help much with the skunk, but your dog will promptly relinquish that bag of KFC chicken bones if you’ve taught him a solid “drop” behavior. In a pinch you can offer high-value treats to entice him to drop his prize (or scatter treats on the ground), but you’re safer training it in advance.

With your trained dog at your side, as long as you both refrain from committing other socially inappropriate acts, the two of you will be good ambassadors for the “dogs in public” crowd.

walking dog in crowds

“Oh dear,” you may be thinking to yourself. “What socially inappropriate acts is she talking about? Has my dog committed any? Have I?” We bet most WDJ readers are not likely to be guilty of the most egregious violations. But if you want to do a self-assessment, here’s a checklist of the societal faux pas we find most offensive:

Failure to scoop. It’s hard to believe that anyone today isn’t savvy enough to clean up her dog’s solid waste, but it happens. There is simply no excuse for this. If you happen to get caught out in public without a plastic bag (it can happen), you can always find a trash receptacle with newspaper, plastic, or some other material you can use to scoop.

Peeing on the Pansies. Of course dogs urinate in public, and we don’t expect you to carry around a cup to catch their liquid output. However, we do hope that you are considerate about whereyou allow your dog to pee. Canine urine can cause yellow spots on grass, which your suburban manicured-lawn neighbors are sure to resent. The urine can also kill flowers, stain walls and fences, and leave a strong ammonia odor, especially if your dog pees in the same spot every day.

poodle waiting outside cafe

If you’re hiking in the woods, this is not a big deal. But if you walk in groomed parks, suburbs, or cities, please “curb your dog” – that is, direct him to urinate in areas where humans aren’t likely to come in contact with it. Don’t allow him to pee on parking meters, newspaper boxes, bicycle racks, flower boxes, lovingly nurtured gardens, kiddie play equipment, or sports fields.

Kissing Babies. I may be a firm believer that exposure to dog germs is good for baby-human immune systems, but the parent of the child in that approaching stroller may disagree. Unless a child’s parent or caregiver invites your dog to make intimate contact and unless you know for a fact your dog adores children, your dog needs to stay out of the faces of babies and toddlers. Leave the baby-kissing to the politicians.

Tied Up on the street.This one is a major “don’t” – and yet we still see it happening all the time. Do not leave your dog tied up outside the store while you run in “just for a second” to grab something you need. You are putting your dog at huge risk if you do this – of being teased, stolen, injured, frightened – and perhaps feeling the need to bite someone in self-defense. There is no excuse, ever, for leaving your dog unattended in a public place.

child meeting dog

Violating Leash Laws. I know: In some communities there are few, if any, places where your dog can legally run off leash. And off-leash dog parks can be risky to your dog unless they are among the minority of well-monitored public parks or privately owned and run. Still, scoffing at leash laws makes all dog owners look bad, and gives non-dog folks a very legitimate gripe. Bite the bullet, obey the laws, and spend some time cultivating friends with large fenced backyards where you can take your dog, or better yet, rural acreage where you can go hike with your pal.

Dog-Dog Greetings. There are some trainers (I am one of them) who suggest that allowing dogs to greet while on leash is not wise, due to the potential for creating leash-restraint frustration issues. Other trainers, however, help their students teach their dogs how greet other dogs politely on leash.

Whichever you prefer, it is still incumbent on you to make sure the owner of the other dog is agreeable to the dog-dog greeting. “It’s okay, my dog is friendly” is not an appropriate answer when another dog owner asks you not to let your dog approach. Always ask permission; don’t assume you can let your dog greet other dogs.

If your dog does not like to be approached while on leash, check out the DINOS (Dogs In Need Of Space) program and equipment (see www.dogsinneedofspace.com). The Yellow Dog Project is another resource for dogs who need space: see theyellowdogproject.com.

Jumping Up. Nothing turns off people about dogs in public faster than dogs who rudely plant their paws on a person’s clean clothes. If your dog hasn’t learned to greet politely as described above, don’t let him greet at all until he does.

Barking and Biting. This should go without saying, but if your dog goes over threshold in public and barks threateningly or even bites, he shouldn’t be there. Period. If you are doing behavior modification with him, you need to do it in an environment where he can stay below threshold and not threaten the safety of others who have a right to be in public places, too. Even excited barking can be frightening, especially to non-dog people. Work with your dog in places that are less arousing until he is ready for the real world.

If you somewhere without access to quiet, uncrowded places where you can take your dog for walks or exercise, or if you are having difficulty teaching him basic good-manners behaviors, seek the guidance of a qualified positive-behavior professional to help you manage his behavior while you help him learn how to cope with city life.

Trading With Your Dog to Combat Resource Guarding

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

It’s important to be able to ask your dog to give something to you, especially something he is not supposed to have, and especially if you’re frequenting public places where he might pick something that belongs to someone else or that might be harmful to him. If you only take things away that are forbidden to him, he’ll learn to play the keep-away game, or worse, he may learn to resource-guard. The “trade” game will help you avoid these problems.

resource guarding dog training

To teach “trade,” give your dog a toy or other object that he likes to play with. When he’s happily holding it in his mouth, offer him a high-value treat and as he drops the toy to take the treat, click the clicker (or use a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and feed him the treat. Then give him back the toy or object. If he is reluctant to give up his toy at first, use a higher-value treat, and/or scatter-drop several treats on the floor.

Note: This is a two-handed exercise. Be sure to keep your dog’s mouth busy eating treats from your hand while you pick up the toy with your other hand.
When you know he’ll drop the toy as you present the treat, start giving the “Trade!” cue just before you offer the treat.

training dog not to resource guard

Vary the length of time between giving the cue and offering the treat, until your dog starts dropping the toy on cue even before you present the trade treat. (Continue to give him the treat after you click, even if he drops the toy on cue.) Do lots of repetitions until he drops the toy on cue every time.

Now do this with higher-value items, such as stuffed Kongs, hoof chews, and raw meaty bones. Slowly work your way up to very high-value objects. Because your dog has learned you will give the valuable object back each time, he should continue to be willing to trade even very high-value items in exchange for a treat, followed by the return of the item.

train against resource guarding

Of course, when he grabs a bag of chicken bones on the street you won’t give it back, but that will happen so infrequently that he’ll learn to happily give you things when you ask.

Note: If your dog shows any signs of resource-guarding when you try to teach him “Trade” (unwillingness to give up object, tension, hard stare, growl, snap, or hovering over or moving away with the object) we recommend you seek the assistance of a qualified positive-behavior professional.

Do not try to forcibly take the object from him.

How to Catch a Dog on the Loose

By
Denise Flaim
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1

Generations ago, the assumption was that Lassies just simply came home. They may have meandered, they may have wandered, but for the most part, a dog on the loose wasn’t something anyone batted an eye at.

Today, of course, that’s all changed. In many parts of the country, a more diligent dog culture – and increased compliance with leash laws – has ensured that the majority of companion dogs are safe behind secure fences, or inside houses or kennel runs when their owners cannot supervise them. When you do see a dog trotting around the neighborhood, the assumption is that he has escaped or was dumped, and is lost and/or imperiled. And the first impulse of most “dog people” is to try and catch him, before he wanders into traffic or another equally life-threatening situation.

dog on the loose

Of course, like people, dogs have different personalities. Gregarious, well-adjusted dogs are typically easy to catch; they’ll just amble up to you, tail a-wagging, and the game is over. But other dogs may be insecure, timid, reactive, or undersocialized, and for them the experience of being out in the wide, wide world can be extremely disorienting, if not downright terrifying. In these cases, catching a panicked dog is something of an art. You need to know what will spook her, what will soothe her, what precise move you need to make, and when to make it.

Here are some dos and don’ts for landing a lost dog back home, safe and sound. And that applies to both of you.

DON’T Grab

This really is common sense, but sometimes, in the excitement of trying to secure a dog on the loose, instinct takes over – with unfortunate results. Consider a news report from January, in which a California woman attempting to rescue a pit bull from an interstate ramp in West Sacramento grabbed for the dog and got badly bitten in the ear.

Suffice it to say that that’s a blueprint for how not to capture a loose dog: Don’t make sudden moves, and don’t try to immobilize a loose dog by clutching him to your bosom. That lady would have been better off opening her car door and trying to entice the dog to jump in, using the vehicle as a “trap” of sorts until help could be summoned.

“If you lunge, dogs may bite because they’re afraid,” says Bonnie Folz of Howard Beach, New York. She first got involved in finding lost dogs with the case of Vivi the Whippet, the dog who famously found herself loose on the tarmac at New York’s John F. Kennedy Airport on the way home from competing at the Westminster dog show in 2006. Vivi was sighted for months, but never caught. Folz was inspired to continue helping owners of lost dogs, especially lost sighthounds, which can quickly turn feral when on the lam.

DON’T Chase

You’ll need to override your biological programming here: It’s human nature to run after something you want. The problem is, the dog will likely run even faster, sometimes directly into danger – in particular, oncoming traffic. When trying to catch a lost dog, often less is more.

The same applies if you see a dog wandering in traffic, in particular a highway or busy road: Don’t jump out. Instead, put on your flashers and follow the dog as best you can, provided you do not create a traffic disturbance. Or pull over somewhere safe, and call highway patrol to see if an officer can assist in stopping and slowing traffic. Bottom line: Don’t take any chances in getting hit yourself.

DON’T Talk

It is incredibly counterintuitive, when you see a loose dog, not to call to him, slap your leg encouragingly, or otherwise send an auditory signal that you are happy to see him and would like him to get closer. But that’s exactly what you shouldn’t do, says Kat Albrecht, a police officer turned pet detective from Federal Way, Washington, who founded the non-profit Missing Pet Partnership in order to help communities develop services to find lost companion animals.

animal control officer

 

“When dogs are flooded with adrenaline, they are very reactive, and they make associations with things,” she explains. “The first person who encounters a lost dog might call the dog or pat their leg or whistle, and if the dog is already in that fight or flight mode, he will likely panic.” The dog may then associate those overtures with something frightening and overwhelming, and bolt whenever he hears them, even if it’s his owner who makes them; he may simply react without processing any of that information.

DO Use Calming Signals

On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals, the 2005 book by Norwegian dog trainer Turid Rugaas, popularized the concept of mimicking the body language that dogs use to communicate peaceful intentions, avoid conflict, and defuse tension.

Calming signals include yawning, using peripheral vision and blinking (never long, direct stares), and oblique approaches (moving from the side, not head on).

You’re not very likely to catch a dog if you are moving toward him in a direct line, standing ramrod straight and staring at him. “What you’re doing with this is mimicking a predator,” Albrecht says.

DO Go “Low and Slow”

The key, Folz explains, is to get down to the dog’s level, and be extremely patient. She recalls a friend who has Pharaoh Hounds who once spent three long hours sitting nearly motionless in a field before a dog who had escaped at a nearby show decided to go over and check him out – and try his treats.

Albrecht also recommends dropping to the ground, then faking indifference. Her favorite move is to pull out a bait bag that makes a lot of noise when touched – crinkly potato-chip bags filled with hot dogs are a favorite – and pretend to indulge in a movable feast, dropping morsels on the floor all the while.

“Say ‘Nummy, nummy,’ and make lip-smacking noises – that’s a universal language to a dog,” Albrecht says. “If you focus on a hot dog you dropped on the ground, and maybe act like you’re eating food off the ground, right away their guard drops because they think you’re not even watching them.”

Albrecht recommends sitting down, or even lying down flat with the food on your stomach, and watching the dog only from your peripheral vision – again, no staring. “It could take 45 minutes to an hour, or longer, for the dog to advance toward you,” she says. If they get close enough at this stage, some dogs will catch the scent of a familiar person and “go through an immediate recognition,” Albrecht says. “Owners describe case after case where a dog starts whining and wagging his tail” after recognizing “his” human at long last.

What To Do If The Lost Dog Is Yours

When a dog goes missing, time is of the essence: Not only can canines cover a lot of ground in a day, leaving them miles away from where they were separated from their humans, but there’s also the risk that a “Good Samaritan” will pick them up and transport them who-knows-where.

lost dog signs

 

Here are some lesser-known but highly effective tips for raising awareness about your lost dog, and generating leads and sightings:

Tag Your Car

Dog rescuers have discovered that turning their cars into moving billboards spreads the word about missing dogs quickly and effectively. Use fluorescent neon markers to draw the most attention. (Albrecht recommends the ½-inch broad-tip

“Neon Car Glass Markers” from neoplexonline.com.) Because the letters need to be three to four inches tall for maximum legibility, Albrecht recommends a maximum of four lines, each in a different color, containing three key pieces of information: the breed or dog description; the location (city, intersection, or neighborhood name), and your phone number.

Circulate a Flyer

Again, Albrecht recommends you go neon here, too: Those plain white sheets of copier paper are easy to overlook. Instead, post the flyers on oversized neon poster paper and place them at major intersections where your dog has been lost or sighted.

As with the car tagging, Albrecht recommends that you make certain words highly visible: Ideally, five words in big type, so that they can be processed in five seconds by passersby. (Additional information can be provided in smaller type.) At the top of the neon poster, put “Reward” in big block letters; at the bottom, the words “Lost Dog.” The flyer should be taped in the middle of the poster in a clear plastic sheet protector for weatherproofing; there should be a photo of the dog in the center and words describing the dog’s breed, appearance or color (“White Greyhound,” “Rottweiler Blue Collar”).

Put the neighborhood on speed dial. Anyone who searches for lost dogs knows that it’s important to place flyers prominently at local businesses and other locations that get lots of community traffic – such as local parks, bus stops, the post office, and grocery and convenience stores. But it’s often impractical (and in some municipalities, illegal) to leaflet private homes. Which is where neighborhood robocalls can come in handy.

Services such as FindToto.com act as “Amber Alerts” for missing dogs, computer-dialing homes in a designated area and playing a recording about the missing dog. Make sure the service is reputable and has a high rating with the Better Business Bureau, as scams in this field are not uncommon.

Keep your team synchronized. These days, many people have smart phones or tablets, and are able to harness technology such as mapping to help with a search. The pet-recovery website helpinglostpets.com allows you to coordinate search teams to target your efforts and optimize your results.

Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three Ridgebacks, 10-year-old triplets, and a very patient husband. 

Bonding With Your Adopted Dog

By
Nicole Wilde
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5

[Updated August 24, 2018]

As a trainer, I am hyperaware of the dynamics between dogs and their owners. I have watched countless human-canine teams in group classes blossom together in beautiful demonstrations of communication and cooperation. Unfortunately, I have also seen people struggle. Teaching a dog a new skill can be difficult for any owner, especially if the person has never practiced it before. A good coach can help solve the sticking points in training…but more troublesome is when an owner’s bond with a dog seems very weak, or non-existent.

dog with sock on bed

Some dogs almost never check in with their owners during an entire class, and it’s more than just a case of being distracted. They simply don’t look to the person for direction or affection. Likewise, some owners continually dismiss their dogs as “stupid” and don’t seem especially proud of them when they do master a skill. This dynamic is less about the actual learning than it is about the bond – or the lack of it. I remember one in-home private training session where the owner informed me, sniffling through her tears, that she just didn’t feel at all close to her adopted dog, who had been in the home for the past four months.

I can bond with pretty much any dog in point-five seconds. At least, I could until we adopted Bodhi (then called Bazooka, for reasons I would later come to discover) from the shelter. An adolescent Malamute-mix, he was full of energy. That was expected.

What we hadn’t anticipated were his incredibly high levels of anxiety, which he expressed as destruction, aggression, and horrendous manners. I literally could not take a few steps across the floor without Bodhi leaping at me and clamping his jaws around my arms or legs. He shredded every object within range, including things he grabbed off shelves, even if I was in the next room with the door open. One evening when he and Sierra, our other adopted dog (with whom I had bonded instantly), were left home alone longer than usual, he ate the couch. I don’t mean he gnawed on it – he completely disemboweled it. He also ate a mini-fridge, which I hadn’t even thought possible.

There were other issues with Bodhi, including his reactivity toward other dogs, fighting with Sierra, and clearly not wanting to be handled. My most-used phrase became, “It’s a good thing you’re cute.” That might have been funny, but the situation was not. My husband’s and my home life became incredibly stressful. It was the first time in my life that I felt incapable of bonding with a dog.

As I wrote in my book Hit by a Flying Wolf (which, in addition to containing stories about rescuing and living with wolves, describes the trials and tribulations of cohabitating with Bodhi and Sierra): “I’d had an immediate feeling of connection upon seeing Bodhi’s photo, but I just wasn’t feeling it in person. The situation was completely alien, and it worried me. But, I reasoned, not feeling warm and fuzzy toward a being who’s turned your life upside down was certainly understandable.”

Frustration Does Not Help with Bonding

At the crux of not feeling bonded with a dog often lies a feeling of helplessness that accompanies having had one’s life and house turned upside down.
To improve the situation, it is necessary to create a feeling of togetherness. Gentle, positive training methods can help immensely, both in improving the dog’s behavior and in creating a bond. If a group class is not helpful enough, a private trainer can pinpoint where issues lie and how the owner and dog can better communicate.

For example, an owner might be continually yelling at the dog to get off the couch – but the dog might not understand at all that his presence on the couch is what suddenly makes his owner “aggressive.” Teaching the dog a specific cue (such as “off” or “go to your bed”)would help the dog understand what’s expected, improve his behavior, and lessen the person’s frustration. The owner soon begins to feel less irritated and more kindly toward the dog.

Teaching tricks can be especially helpful in relationship-building. Trick training is fun, and does not carry the air of seriousness that obedience training sometimes can. I have observed countless times how the very same owners who were almost grim when teaching an obedience exercise would smile and become joyful when teaching tricks. The dogs enjoy it too. Having fun together creates wonderful chemistry.

There are other enjoyable ways to encourage bonding. Depending on the dog’s age, breed, and health, and what the owner is able and inclined to do, possible activities could include K9 Nosework, agility, rally, tracking, urban mushing, or canine freestyle. A variety of dog sports and activities are available, but the real trick is finding one that both partners enjoy. The camaraderie created by experiencing improvement and success together builds long-term companionship in a big way.

Act “As If”

With Bodhi, in addition to behavior modification and training, I did something that might sound strange at first; I mounted a “cuddle offensive.” Have you ever heard it suggested to act “as if”? For example, if you’re nervous about giving a speech, you act “as if” you’re confident, and eventually you do become confident in those situations. Well, I decided to act “as if” I felt close to Bodhi. I had already been rewarding him with attention for good behavior, but I made a special effort to pet him more often in long, calming strokes, to talk to him softly, and to surround him with a feeling of love and acceptance whenever possible.

It worked! Within a week’s time, he became visibly more relaxed – and so did I. My affection toward Bodhi had been buried under layers of resentment and stress. Over time I began to actually feel closer to him, as my emotions followed my actions.
I’m not suggesting that you can make any dog fit into any home; if it truly is a mismatch, the dog should be rehomed. But if you feel that you’re not bonding with your dog, ask yourself why. If it’s behavioral, seek help from a professional trainer. Whether the cause is behavioral or not, get involved in activities together. Even if you don’t feel quite warm and fuzzy just yet, try acting “as if.” You might be surprised at the depth of the bonds you create.

April 2014 Letters & Corrections

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

Correction:
In the list of WDJ-approved dry foods presented in our February issue, we reported incorrect ranges for the amounts of protein and fat in some of the dry foods made by Dogswell. The products in the company’s Live Free dry food line contain 36% to 40% protein and 14% to 18% fat. The products in Dogswell’s dry Nutrisca line contain 30% to 32% protein and 16% to 18% fat. We regret the errors.

Regarding “Spot the Problem” (WDJ January 2014): Where can I find dosage charts by dog weight, not by brand name, that show the different drugs used for these products? I need to re-visit my choice of treatment.

My 3-year-old Lab became very ill, and now I wonder if it was the Trifexis we use. The vet kept asking if we gave her anything “different” than usual. The answer was “No.” She is 65 lbs, and the vet will only sell us the BROWN 65-120 lb strength. I really think I am over-dosing!

Susan Wright
Via email

If your dog has become ill within a week of being treated with either a topical or oral flea/tick/heartworm prevention drug or pesticide, we would recommend not using that drug or pesticide again, nor any preparation that included the same active ingredients as the one that caused the problem.

As the article suggested, we also would recommend using the smallest dose that would adequately protect your dog. When your dog’s weight is right on the line between products with different dosages, we’d recommend using the lower dosage. And we’d discontinue using the services of any veterinarian who wouldn’t be more sensitive to the possibility that the Trifexis, particularly at a potentially too-high dose, could have caused your Lab’s illness.

Are dog foods required to meet AAFCO standards/guidelines in order for you to include them in your list of recommended foods (“Dried and True,” WDJ February 2014)? I understand the difference between “meets AAFCO standards” and “AAFCO certified.”

Name withheld
via email

Only foods that are “complete and balanced” as per the AAFCO guidelines appear on our list of “approved foods.” But you may misunderstand the terms you referenced.
AAFCO (the Association of American Feed Control Officials) does not “certify” any foods; it is not a certifying or inspecting entity, but rather, an advisory group that develops model regulations that are, almost uniformly, adopted by and used by each individual state. Dog foods are regulated by state laws and subject to inspection by state feed control officials. Each of the United States has adopted the recommendations as to the definitions of “complete and balanced” that have been developed by AAFCO.

In order to use the phrase “complete and balanced” on its label, a product must have met one of two possible sets of requirements (both of which were developed by AAFCO), and it needs to use a specific phrase that describes which of the requirements it met. It will either state that, “(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO nutrient profiles,” or “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (product name) provides complete and balanced nutrition for (life stage).” Again, all of the products we include on our lists have met one of these requirements.

We’ve published many articles about AAFCO and the various ways that foods qualify as “complete and balanced,” including articles that discuss the problems and strengths of each method of qualification. Use the “search” feature on wholedogjournal.com for a list of relevant articles.

Regarding the article “It’s in the Bag” (February 2014) you recommend storing food in the original bag, and the bag in a container.

I need some clarification. I live in the southwest; mice and cockroaches are prevalent in my area. We need a “critter proof” container and fresh dog food! How truly safe is the dog food in a plastic container, while remaining in its bag? (After opening the bag, I fold down and clip the bag prior to storing.) I am aware of BPA and other possible toxin releases. The plastic containers are hard plastic.

Sharon Maughan
Albuquerque, NM

As long as you leave the food in the bag, it’s protected from any container you put the bag in. Pet food bags are designed to protect the food and recent innovations in packaging have made them safer and more impermeable than ever. The potential for contaminating the dog food lies in the practice of dumping the food directly into the plastic container without its bag. The fat in dog food can chemically interact with many plastics and facilitate the transfer of chemicals from the plastic into the food. We recommend keeping dry dog food in its bag (even if you use supposedly “safe” plastic containers).

I have four Dobermans and I walk them every day. I consider them my friends and exercise machines.

When Sony invented the Walkman, particularly the Walkman radio, my dog walking was taken to new heights. I could keep abreast of the news. I would walk the dogs and the radio up and down Signal Hill, the most easterly city in North America, every morning, often before dawn. Life was good. The dogs and I were happy.

Then my wife read in WDJ that wearing headphones while dog walking was bad, so I stopped. Life became, well, dull. I see today in your March 2014 issue (“Walk On!”) in which you repeat your advice: “No headphones. Ever.”

What if I give each dog his or her own headphones? Would that solve the problem? Thanks for an otherwise fine magazine.

Clifford Grinling
St. John’s, Newfoundland

So sorry to make your walks so dull, but it’s a safety issue. Wouldn’t you rather hear that runaway truck behind you, or the shouts of “Watch out for the crazed moose!”? You’re welcome.

Download the Full April 2014 Issue PDF

By
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Rescue a Coonhound — please!

By
Nancy Kerns
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1

I admit, I’m conflicted.

I think there may be no more commendable work than that performed by rescue groups who pull dogs from shelters where they might be (or are slated to be) killed, foster them, address their medical and behavioral problems, and find them homes.

Then there are other people who pull dogs from shelters and, without meaning to (I hope), plunge those dogs into even worse circumstances. What’s worse than death? In my opinion, living in filthy, overcrowded conditions, without enough to eat, clean water, or medical care of any kind, and without hope of escape — that’s worse than death, in my mind. And all too many so-called rescues, founded with good intentions by people who truly love animals and want to help them, start out as the first type of group, and end up as the second.

Just a few recent examples:

http://www.wyff4.com/news/local-news/anderson-news/100-dogs-seized-from-animal-rescue/24570644

http://www.grenadastar.com/contentitem/369096/1218/charges-filed-against-owner-of-neglected-dead-donkeys

http://www.vvdailypress.com/articles/lucerne-45181-rescuers-valley.html

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/03/11/300-dead-birds-animal-rescue-volunteer-gretchen-rell_n_4941831.html?utm_hp_ref=green

One of the ingredients for a “failed” rescue seems to be when just one or two people are behind the rescue effort for too long. Caring for a lot of animals can wear anyone down, and if you try it without sufficient help or ample funds, it can be exhausting and depressing — not to mention, financially challenging.

Also, once shelters or individuals know there is a “no-kill” option in their area, they are often all-too-fast to try to surrender animals to the “rescue” — without doing due diligence, to make sure the organization is healthy and well. It’s easy for a soft-hearted person, trying to do good work, to get buried under an avalanche of animals needing homes, and not enough time to market those animals to potential new owners. A “good” rescue sometimes says no; they don’t take in more animals than they can care for. And in this case, I think they are doing the animals a disservice.

But, as I said, I’m conflicted. I recently pulled a dog out of a shelter, and brought it to a rescue group — one that is doing terrific work. And yet, I felt guilty for bringing one more dog to a group who is already trying to place LOTS of similar dogs.

My local shelter didn’t want to give a particular dog a chance, citing his size, lack of training, and “drive”. He is a Redbone Coonhound, and typical for the breed: tall, strong, and yes, loud. And yet, he wasn’t aggressive, wasn’t a cat killer, wasn’t dying of heartworm or anything else — he was just another big, active, loud, untrained young dog. He was sweet and trainable, but the powers-that-be decided he was not a good adoption candidate. Sometimes that means the animal himself is unsuited for life in any human society, but in this case, it seemed that someone thought it was unlikely that he’d find a suitable home in our community any time soon. I hate that sort of decision — and I understand that it’s why many people hate and speak disparaging of “so-called shelters”.

I couldn’t stand by and watch him get euthanized for no good reason — I also can’t foster a dog of his size and lung capacity without alienating my husband, my own animals, and neighbors. Fortunately, I know this one terrific rescue group, the American Black and Tan Coonhound Rescue (www.coonhoundrescue.com), which was started as a strict Black and Tan rescue, but which also takes in hounds of other breeds. They have an active national network of people working for the hounds: some who provide foster homes, training, and socializing for the dogs; some who provide transportation services, moving dogs to available foster homes, or in the best case scenario, transporting dogs long-distance from foster to permanent adoptive homes; and donors, people who have or have had coonhounds and want to help.

I asked, and got permission to transport this dog to the West Coast coordinator for the group — who is already hosting a dozen or so equally needy hounds! She operates a boarding and daycare facility, so it’s not like her home is buried under hounds, but still — that’s a lot of extra work.

So, I’m going to make a donation to the group, and I’ve offered to help transport dogs when I can. And I’d certainly like to help publicize the group; they do amazing work. Their good-news stories appear daily on their Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/groups/90624386172/). And I’d also recommend these dogs to anyone looking for their next dog; they may not all be as calm as the famous Maddie the Coonhound (http://maddieonthings.com/) but they are smart, funny dogs who do mellow after those first couple of years.

(Help For Your Fearful Dog #2) Leadership

By
Nicole Wilde
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A dog who regards his humans as a strong leader will feel more secure in threatening situations.  For example, Shiloh the Shetland Sheepdog is nervous when strangers approach on the street.  Without confidence in his owner, Shiloh might feel the need to take matters into his own paws, barking and lunging furiously to drive the stranger away.  But if he sees his owner a capable leader, Shiloh can relax and let her handle the situation.  Leadership has its benefits for you, the owner, as well.  If you feel that you have more control over your dog, you will be able to remain calmer when confronted with potentially anxiety-producing situations.

Good leaders use psychology to lead and teach.  There is no need to prove to your dog that you are in charge by being physically overpowering.

The Language of Leadership

The unruffled, self-assured manner of a strong leader is reflected in the tone of voice and body language.  Speech is succinct.  Instructions are clear and direct.  A good leader is fair, consistent, and patient.  Although it might ne difficult to define a good leader by listing personality traits and mannerisms, the aura of a true leader is unmistakable.  Even if you do not naturally exude leadership qualities, you can learn to approximate them well enough that your dog will be convinced that you are in charge.

Here’s how:

–   Maintain an air of calm confidence.  Whenever you feel yourself becoming tense, take a few deep breaths.

–   Give verbal cues once in an even tone of voice.  Do not repeat cues with escalating volume!  Your dog can hear a potato chip hit the carpet in the next room-she heard your request the first time.

–   Keep verbal cues simple: do not surround them with extraneous chatter.  It’s not, “Hey buddy, come on, come here now!”  It’s “Buddy, come!”

–   Be clear in your hand signals and body language.  Do not use unnecessary movements.  Stand tall and communicate calmly and clearly.

–   If your dog does not respond to a verbal cue immediately (assuming it is one she understands and has practiced), count to 30 silently.  If she complies during that time, reward her.  The time between the cue and the response-known as latency-will get shorter with repeated attempts.  If your dog does not comply, a consequence should follow.  The consequence might be your walking away and ignoring her for two minutes, withdrawing a potential reward (like the treat you were about to give), or gently placing her into the requested position.

–   If you must interrupt a behavior, use a soft but sharp “Eh-eh!” rather than a frantic or whining “No, no, noooo, stop doing that right now!”  Once your dog has ceased the inappropriate behavior, calmly redirect her to another activity such as chewing an appropriate chew toy.  (Ask for a sit before giving her the chew toy so she is being rewarded for the sit rather than for the inappropriate activity.)

For more on owning and training a fearful dog, purchase Help For Your Fearful Dog:  A Step By Step Guide to Helping Your Dog Conquer His Fear by Nicole Wilde, CPDT.

What would you do?

By
Nancy Kerns
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A number of people commented on last week’s blog to say, in essence, “Why didn’t you straighten out that irresponsible dog owner?” All I can say is that it goes against my nature to give advice to people who aren’t asking for some — especially random strangers. I was deeply exasperated with him — but he wasn’t asking me for advice. I may have been negligent in failing to help the dogs . . . but what would you do, really? And what would you do if some stranger in a store told you what you were doing with your dog is all wrong?

This is actually something I’ve struggled with for ages. When my son was a baby I became newly aware and observant of other parents and babies in public places, and sometimes I wouldn’t like what I’d see, such as when (as one example) a parent would yell at or threaten a screaming baby or toddler at the end of his or her rope. I’d think, geez, that baby looks tired and hungry and probably shouldn’t be getting dragged through a supermarket right this second, and yelling at him certainly isn’t going to help anything. But would I go up to a nearly out-of-control parent and tell her that she is just making things worse? Ask her to please not yell at the baby, because there is a better way? Ack! Maybe a person should do that, but I’ve never been able to. I’m always too afraid that the attention will just unhinge the person even more.

And, haven’t most of us been on the receiving end of unsolicited advice? It’s often unappreciated, if not resented. And sometimes, it’s just plain wrong! Not long ago, a supermarket checkout person asked me what I was going to do with the chicken necks I was buying. When I said I was going to give them to my dogs, she reacted strongly. “Oh my goodness, that’s so dangerous!” she gasped. “Dogs should never be given bones!” I smiled and said my dogs eat and chew bones all the time and are no worse for wear. I didn’t resent her, not at all, but neither was I going to try to discuss a complex topic like the BARF diet (bones and raw food) with a stranger.

Finally, where do you draw the line? There are other things I do with my dogs that would horrify other dog owners, such as feed dry food (actually, I feed every type of food — raw, canned, dehydrated, dry, home-cooked, etc. — but mostly they eat kibble) and allow them to ride in my car without being buckled into a seat belt or crated. I know a home-prepared diet is healthier, and yet I choose not to feed it daily. I know it’s dangerous for them not to be crated or seat-belted, and yet I take the risk of them being flung out of my car if I get in an accident.  Should I be admonished — and equated with the guys who drive with dogs in the back of their trucks completely untethered? What about those who let their dogs drive down the highway with their heads (and shoulders and front paws) hanging out the car window?

I don’t have any answers here, but I am interested in what you think. When would you admonish a stranger for “doing it wrong” with their dog? And how would you do it? What would you say?

And how would you respond if someone approached you and your dog in a public place and told you, “You know, that’s not a great idea to do with your dog . . .”?

(Don’t Leave Me! #2) The Connection Between Nutrition and Separation Anxiety

By
Nicole Wilde
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You’re probably wondering what on earth your dog’s diet has to do with his stress levels when left alone. The answer is, plenty. Have you ever drank one cup of coffee too many and gotten that jittery, wired feeling? You might have snapped at your co-workers, been more impatient than usual when waiting in line, or reacted with vitriol when someone cut you off in traffic. Likewise, have you noticed the way kids act when they’ve eaten too much sugar? They can become cranky and hyperactive. What we ingest has a direct effect on our nervous system. A long-term diet of sweets and processed foods will surely impact our health, but it may also cause us to feel less emotionally balanced, and even depressed, anxious, or angry. By the same token, eating a healthful diet contributes to a state of well being both physically and emotionally. It’s no different for dogs.

Dog food that is built on inferior protein sources and laden with unhealthy chemicals, preservatives, and excess sugars can contribute to issues such as hyperactivity, restlessness and nervousness. A healthful diet will go a long way toward allowing your dog to feel physically calmer, which will set the stage for a tranquil emotional state. Making wise nutritional choices will also result in better overall health for your dog, which will be especially beneficial as he ages.

For additional information on how food and other external factors can affect your dog’s behavior, purchase Don’t Leave Me! by Nicole Wilde from Whole Dog Journal. 

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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