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Pros and Cons of Large Pet Food Companies

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A woman browses for pet food in a grocery store aisle.
There are benefits and disadvantages of feeding your dog every type of food imaginable. We tend to throw our lot in with smaller pet food companies who use high-quality, domestically sourced, whole ingredients in their products. Photo credit: lupengyu, Getty Images

I’m asked from time to time why we don’t include foods from giant dog food companies such as Mars PetCare (whose products include Royal Canin and Pedigree), Purina (who makes ProPlan as well as Dog Chow and Purina One), or Hills (Science Diet et. al.).

It might make the most sense for me to formulate a response in terms of pros and cons of feeding products from these corporate giants.

Pros:

  • Competitive pricing. These companies are global giants, with massive purchasing power and extensive manufacturing capabilities, so they are able to produce high volumes of product at a lower cost than smaller companies. Their products can be offered at lower price per pound than products made in smaller facilities. (However, in some cases, these saving may be offset by the enormous cost of marketing and research and development.)
  • Top-quality, professional processing. The dog food giants can afford to hire and retain a well-trained work force, and constantly upgrade their manufacturing facilities. Their plants are uniformly clean and well maintained, and usually have extensive in-house labs for running very frequent quality-control tests.
  • A plethora of R&D. The big companies maintain kennels of dogs (and cats) and teams of veterinarians and vet techs so they can test various diets and dietary innovations in feeding trials of their products’ taste, color, shape, and size, as well as the diets’ digestibility and ability to maintain the intended consumers’ health. They are more or less constantly tinkering with various ingredients (in order to maximize the products’ performance while minimizing their cost).

Cons:

  • Price pressure and global sourcing of ingredients can lead to inclusion of sketchy ingredients. Those of you who were pet owners in 2007 will immediately know what I’m talking about (the 2007 pet food recalls). The inclusion of less-expensive ingredients from China that had been adulterated with melamine and cyanuric acid (which artificially boosted the estimated amount of protein in the ingredients) led to the deaths and serious injuries of countless dogs and cats—perhaps in the thousands. An estimated 5,300 products were recalled as tests revealed the scope of use of the contaminated ingredients. Most of the largest pet food companies in the U.S. and Canada had multiple (sometimes hundreds) of recalled products; products were also recalled in South Africa and Europe. For months, as the extent of this disaster expanded, we held our breath, waiting to see whether any of the foods on our “Top Dog Foods” lists would be implicated—and none ever were. This strengthened our appreciation of smaller pet food producers who are committed to high-quality ingredients.
  • The largest pet food producers almost uniformly use already processed food by-products in the foods that they further process. Many of the dry foods made by the global pet food giants are made with meat meal only (without the inclusion of fresh or frozen meat) and/or meat by-product meal. Meat meals and meat by-product meals are already made through a fairly intense process—and then mixed with other ingredients into a dough that gets baked, or more commonly, cooked via high temperature and pressure in an extruder. Many of the carb sources used by these companies are by-products from human food manufacturing, such as tomato pomace, citrus pulp, beet pulp, brewers rice, etc. These ingredients may play a useful functional role in the formula (in addition to their nutrient content), such as providing useful fiber—but a whole ingredient, included without previous processing, may supply greater nutritional benefits. Given the potential for contamination, and the loss or degradation of nutrients that can occur with each processing step, we prefer products that include whole ingredients.
  • The largest producers tend to use lower-cost, lower quality sources of various nutrients. For example, beef fat is one of the lowest-cost ingredients available as a fat source for dog food, and it appears in many Pro Plan foods. Plant proteins, in the form of soybean meal, rice gluten, corn gluten, and wheat gluten, are commonly used by these food makers to support the amount of protein supplied by animal protein sources, which have superior amino acid profiles for canine nutrition. Some Royal Canin foods have corn as their first ingredient, rather than an animal protein!
  • All of the large food producers make their products in enormous This means, if there is a problem with an ingredient or formula, it can potentially affect many more dogs before the problem is identified and the product recalled.

Smaller Is Not Always Better

But don’t get me wrong; there are benefits and risks of buying products from smaller pet food makers, too. While they tend to use higher-quality ingredients, they sometimes lack meaningful control over the production of their products at third-party “contract manufacturers” or “co-packers”—or lack the resources to properly train or retain a reliable workforce or maintain clean facilities of their own. Production problems seem more common at smaller plants—but on the other hand, when foods are recalled, often the recalls affect only a small number of products, thanks to smaller production runs.

No Dietary Source Is Perfect

There is fairly clear scientific consensus that the least processed foods are healthier for every species of animal than highly processed foods. So many dog owners feel more comfortable making their dogs’ food themselves, with ingredients they have chosen. But if they aren’t equipped with reliable, well-researched recipes, or lack adequate knowledge of the dog’s unique nutritional requirements, they may unwittingly cause their dogs to develop nutritional deficiencies or imbalances that affect their health. There are risks and benefits of every way of feeding your dog (and yourself!).

Ultimately, you have to decide what you feel best about—and you have to watch your dog, with the understanding that nutrition does affect health. If you are aware of the hazards that could result from your choice, you can watch for signs of any acute adverse response to a food—or chronic signs that the diet isn’t maintaining your dog as well as another diet might.

And if your dog looks, seems to feel, and acts like a million bucks on his current diet—or, as we prefer, several foods that you rotate among—there may be no reason to change what you feed him.

Can Dogs Have Apples?

Dogs can have apples and apple products so long as they don't have artificial sweeteners.
Go ahead and share a bit of your apple with your dog—he’ll love it! Simonkr | Getty Images

Your dog may beg for some of whatever you’re eating—quietly with just his eyes if he’s been taught not to beg or a full-body “give me some” body wiggle if he just can’t resist—but you can’t give in on everything we eat. Apples, however, are a fine treat to share with your dog, as are many fruits.

Apples are so naturally yummy that they’re often included as an ingredient in commercial dog treats. They’re healthy, too. Apples contain fiber, vitamins A and C, potassium and more nutrients.

How Much Apple Can My Dog Have?

Limit apples to a couple of pieces/slices so you don’t risk digestive upset (maybe a tad more for bigger dogs and a bit less for the littles).

You can give the dogs the apple skin but not the seeds as they contain tiny amounts of cyanide. (Don’t panic if your dog does consume a seed or two because the amount of toxin in an apple seed is small; it’s just best to avoid them.) Don’t feed the apple core either, which could be a choking hazard.

Dogs love red apples, but they can eat green apples, too, like Granny Smiths. Be aware, however, that because green apples are tart, they may not be as well received by your dog as a sweet Red Delicious, for example.

Dogs Can Eat Applesauce

Dogs can eat applesauce, too, but choose unsweetened varieties because dogs don’t need added sugar any more than we do. And, be especially careful to read the entire ingredients list on commercial applesauce to check to be sure the applesauce doesn’t contain xylitol, which is deadly to dogs.  Xylitol may also be listed as birch sugar, wood sugar, and birch-bark extract, according to the Food & Drug Administration.

Interestingly, apple cider vinegar is sometimes added to a dog’s water or food to help digestion and promote beneficial bacteria.

How to Groom a Dog

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Beyond just saving time and money at the groomer, doing some of your dog’s grooming at home can provide the opportunity to keep an eye on her overall health, spend time together, and work on any discomfort or anxiety she might have about grooming. While it can seem daunting at first, learning the basics of how to groom a dog is well within reach for many dog owners. Maintenance tasks like bathing, brushing coats and teeth, and trimming nails are a great place to start.

How to Groom a Dog at Home

When it comes to how to groom a dog at home, there are a few tools you will need for the job. Some things, such as what kind of brushes you will need, will depend on your dog’s coat type. The basics include:

  • Nail clippers and/or a nail grinder
  • Brushes
  • Toothbrush
  • Dog toothpaste
  • Dog shampoo/conditioner

There are also some items that are nice to have but not necessary such as:

  • Electric clippers
  • Dog blow dryer (cool air)
  • Grooming table
  • Shedding tools
  • Spray bottle
  • Bath/shower attachment

For more detailed suggestions on at-home grooming equipment, see “Supplies for Dog Grooming at Home.”

Grooming Anxiety

Before getting into how to groom a dog, it’s important to note that grooming should be a relaxed, stress-free process for both you and your dog. If your dog is anxious about being groomed—or even just inexperienced—you will need to develop a training plan to help her figure out that it’s not so scary after all. Remember that forcing her will often just frighten her more and make the process far more difficult in the long run.

If your dog struggles to stay calm for grooming, it often helps to practice beforehand using high-value rewards. Break the process down into easily attainable steps, keep the experience positive, and be prepared to practice daily. Above all, be patient and don’t be afraid to contact a good, fear-free trainer for help.

For further information on how to teach a dog to be calm for grooming, see “Tips For Grooming An Anxious Dog.”

Brushing Your Dog

The goal of brushing your dog is to remove loose hair, tangles, and debris from her coat. Brushing also helps distribute the natural oils in the coat and stimulates the skin, which helps to keep both healthy. Because of this, even short-haired dogs should be brushed weekly. Dogs with longer hair, curly or double coats (dogs like Huskies that have both an undercoat and topcoat) may need to be brushed daily.

The first step when brushing a dog is to pick the right brush for your dog’s coat. For single-coated dogs with shorter hair, try a slicker brush, bristle brush, or silicone grooming glove. In addition to slicker and bristle brushes, tools that are useful for double-coated or long-haired dogs include rubber or plastic currycombs, pin brushes, and undercoat rakes.

There are several things to keep in mind when brushing your dog:

  • There is no right or wrong place to start. Some people begin brushing at the dog’s head and work back to the tail while others do the reverse. Pick what’s comfortable.
  • When brushing, use gentle, firm strokes that get down to the skin but don’t scratch it.
  • Follow the direction of the dog’s hair.
  • Avoid brushing directly over sensitive areas such as eyes, noses, and genitals.
  • Take breaks if needed.
  • Go slowly to keep from tugging on any tangles or mats.

It’s important not to pull on any tangles or mats you find as this can be painful for the dog and may even damage the skin. If necessary, use a detangling product (follow directions on the label) and gently work to untangle the hair. In some cases, mats may need to be cut out with electric clippers or scissors. If you are not comfortable doing so, seek help from a professional groomer.

For more on how to choose the right brushes, see “Brushes and Tools for Shedding Dogs.”

Bathing a Dog at Home

You don’t need a professional grooming tub to give your dog a good bath. Depending on the size of your dog, a sink, bathtub, or shower will do. If it’s warm enough, you can also head outside and use a wading pool or hose. Anywhere that has access to warm (avoid hot or cold) water and can comfortably fit the dog is fair game.

Once you’ve selected a spot, gather your tools—you’ll need a brush, shampoo, conditioner (if wanted), and towels or a hair dryer. From there:

  1. Brush your dog thoroughly
  2. Wet with water
  3. Work shampoo into coat, avoiding eyes and ears
  4. Rinse
  5. Apply conditioner
  6. Rinse
  7. Dry your dog
  8. Brush while drying

Make sure the products you are using are gentle enough that they won’t irritate your dog’s skin. If you are looking for alternatives to commercially available products, you can also make your own dog shampoo.

For step-by-step instructions and bathing product suggestions, see “How to Bathe Your Dog.”

Trimming Nails

Why are nail trims so important? Over time, too-long nails can actually compromise a dog’s weight distribution and natural alignment, causing pain and making the dog more susceptible to injury, or even curve around and grow into the pad of the foot. The good news is that those issues are easily avoided with regular nail trims.

The most common methods for trimming dog nails use nail clippers, nail grinders, or a combination of both. There are also scratch pads available, which use abrasive material to help keep nails short.

Nail trimming is often a dog’s least favorite grooming task. As mentioned in the section on grooming anxiety, you will need to be prepared to work with your dog to make it a tolerable process for her. Also, if you choose to use a nail grinder, your dog will likely need time to get used to the sound. To help her, give her treats while it is running, first a few feet away and then, once she is comfortable, held close to her paws.

To trim a dog’s nails with clippers:

  1. Tuck back any loose hair so you can clearly see the nail.
  2. Identify where you are going to cut. For white nails, avoid the pink “quick” down the middle of the nail and just cut in solid white. For black nails, focus on the tapered part of the nail and not the wide base.
  3. Clip in one smooth steady motion.
  4. Praise and reward your dog.
  5. Trim sharp edges if using scissor-type clippers or use a nail grinder to smooth them down.

To trim a dog’s nails with a grinder:

  1. Once your dog is acclimated to the grinder, hold the grinder at a 45-degree angle to the nail.
  2. Apply light pressure so it files the nail back.
  3. Repeat on the other side of the nail to even it out.
  4. Smooth out any rough or sharp spots so the nail tip is rounded.

For further information, see “How to Trim Dog Nails.”

Cleaning Teeth

At-home dental care for dogs is often overlooked but is extremely important for combating periodontal disease—alongside regular veterinary checkups and professional dental cleanings. While brushing your dog’s teeth daily is ideal, even just three times a week has been shown to be beneficial. As with other grooming tasks, you’ll want to start slow when getting your dog used to having her teeth brushed and keep the experience positive.

Begin by just running your finger or a soft, damp washcloth over the outer surfaces of your dog’s front teeth. Once she gets used to that, move to the outer surfaces of the back teeth and then to the inner surfaces. When your dog is comfortable with having all of her teeth touched, introduce a toothbrush followed by dog toothpaste.

When picking dental hygiene items for your dog, it’s best to get a toothbrush either made specifically for dogs or one made for human babies. Also, dog-specific toothpaste is a must. Human toothpaste as it is not designed to be swallowed and may not be safe for a dog’s gastrointestinal tract. If your dog won’t tolerate having her teeth brushed, there are options in the form treats, chews, and food/water additives that can help.

For more on how to care for you dog’s teeth at home, see “At-home Dental Care for Dogs.”

Haircuts

Giving your dog a haircut is one of those areas where it’s usually best to at least consult a professional groomer before trying it out at home. There are a lot of things to watch out for that, if you are new to dog grooming, can be a struggle to get right. Mistakes can be uncomfortable or even painful for your dog.

Adding to the complication, different coat types need to be handled in different ways. While some dogs do best with regular shaving, some—such as most double-coated breeds—shouldn’t be shaved at all except in special circumstance. A groomer will be able to advise you on what haircut, if any, would be best for your dog.

If you do decide to try cutting your dog’s hair at home, make sure she is able to stand calmly while being groomed and is comfortable with the sound and feel of electric clippers or scissors. Before getting started, familiarize yourself with your dog’s anatomy so you don’t end up accidentally hurting or cutting her—even electric clippers can snag a nipple or burn sensitive skin if handled incorrectly.

None of this is meant to imply you can’t learn if you want to! Just use caution and get someone knowledgeable to teach you first.

Treating a Red Rash on a Dog’s Belly

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A red rash on a dog's belly or inner thighs is usually due to allergies but may indicate a serious problem like mange.
When your dog rolls over for that awesome belly rub, take a minute to be sure his skin isn’t raw or red, or that he’s starting to develop a rash. Credit: Little City Lifestyle Photography | Getty Images

Your dog rolls over for a belly rub, and you notice a red rash on his stomach or thighs. It may or may not itch, but it’s decidedly not normal. How do you treat a red rash on a dog’s belly?

Usually, a red rash on a dog’s belly and inner thighs is due to allergies. It could be because of new carpets or bedding, or from running through tall grass or brush, or a host of other things. However, a red rash on the belly can also be the first sign of a serious skin issue like mange, which is caused by mites.

If it’s the first time you’ve seen a rash on your dog’s belly, it’s wise to make a veterinary appointment, especially if your dog is itchy or uncomfortable. Getting a correct diagnosis helps target the best treatments for whatever issue your dog is experiencing and helps resolve it most quickly.

If you’re not able to quickly see a veterinarian, some first-aid treatments that are generally safe to try at home on a rash include:

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Bathing: Bathe your dog with a mild dog shampoo to remove allergens he may have picked up in his coat. Mild shampoos are often marketed as for sensitive skin or as hypoallergenic, such as Allergroom or Epi-Soothe from Virbac. If bathing is not possible, you can use an unscented baby wet wipe. Be sure to wipe down not only his belly, but also all four limbs.

Triple Antibiotic Ointment: If there are lesions that look like pimples or scabs, you can use over-the-counter topical triple antibiotic ointment on the lesions twice a day for up to seven days. Watch him closely for 10 to 15 minutes, and do not let him lick it off.

Cortisone Cream: If there are no lesions, just overall redness, it is usually OK to apply over-the-counter topical 1% cortisone cream twice a day for one to three days. When using cortisone cream this way, if anything seems to worsen instead of improving, stop using the cream immediately and see your veterinarian. Never use cortisone topically for more than a few days without consulting your veterinarian first. And, again, don’t let the dog lick it off.

Antihistamines: Some oral antihistamines are generally safe to use in dogs when an allergic reaction is suspected. Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) is the most common choice. The dosage for dogs is 1 mg per pound of body weight two to three times daily (once every 8 to 12 hours). So, a 25-lb. dog would take 25 mg. A 50-lb. dog would take 50 mg, and so on. Always be sure you look at the label on the box to see how much medication is in the product you’re purchasing. Regular diphenhydramine contains 25 mg per tablet, but extra-strength medications may contain 50 mg per tablet. Choose the tablet form and put it in a pill-hiding treat of some type.

If Benadryl doesn’t seem to help, talk to your veterinarian about other over-the-counter antihistamines that are safe for you to try and at what dosages. These might include loratidine (Claritin), ceterizine (Zyrtec), and chlorpheniramine (Chlor-Trimeton). Make sure your veterinarian knows what, if any, other medications your dog is taking.

Can a Dog Have a Mole?

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vet checking for moles on dog
If you’re not sure what that new spot is on your dog, go to the veterinarian to have it checked. It’s not worth the risk of assuming it’s a mole, when it could be a cancerous lesion. The longer you wait, if it’s cancer, the more difficult it will be to eradicate. Photo Kerkez | Getty Images

Dogs get moles just like people do. A mole is a small growth on the skin, also called a nevus. Moles are not the same as skin tags, in that moles tend to be flatter with a broader base. Skin tags protrude more from the skin and are usually connected by a slender stalk. Either way, both these lesions are benign.

Your dog may get pink, white, gray, or black moles. They are typically small, less than a quarter inch in diameter. They usually hairless and have a smooth surface, as opposed to a wart, which has a cauliflower-like surface.

The first time you see any skin growth on your dog, it’s a good idea to have it checked by your veterinarian just to be sure it isn’t something more harmful. There are two cancerous skin lesions that can initially look like a mole: mast cell tumors and malignant melanoma. Your veterinarian may take a sample using a fine needle aspirate and submit it for testing (cytology) to rule out these malignancies.

Be advised, ticks and moles look a lot alike upon cursory inspection. Before you start trying to pull off that mole, thinking it’s a tick, look closely, using a magnifying glass if necessary. If it’s a tick, you should be able to see the legs sticking out. Your dog will not appreciate your efforts toward removing a mole, and you will likely get it irritated and bleeding.

Once it’s been confirmed that your dog’s skin growth is a mole, there is no need to have it removed. Careful monitoring, however, is advised. Benign lesions don’t change much. Causes for concern include any change in color, size, or texture. Irregular, jagged edges forming in an originally smooth border is suspicious, as is a previously quiet lesion that suddenly seems to be bothering your dog. If any of these things are happening, get to the vet.

If you want to have a mole electively removed for whatever reason (e.g., cosmetic, groomer keeps nicking it, the dog keeps licking it, it keeps bleeding), this is usually easily achieved. Many veterinarians now have cryotherapy units and can quickly and painlessly freeze the mole off. Alternatively, most moles can be easily surgically removed using just local anesthesia.

Does My Dog Have Pneumonia?

Dog pneumonia is first diagnosed by listening to a dog's lungs and then confirmed by x-ray.
In making a diagnosis of pneumonia, the veterinarian will listen to your dog’s lungs. Credit: Dima Sidelnikov | Getty Images

Canine pneumonia is a respiratory infection that has moved into the dog’s lower respiratory tract, the bronchioles and lungs themselves. The location of the infection alone makes it harder for your dog to get relief by coughing.

Some dogs with pneumonia may cough, bringing up some discharge. Others will have rapid or painful breathing but lie quietly and not really cough unless they get up and are active. Nasal discharge, generally thick and often pus-like, may be noticed. Most of these dogs seem to feel sick, lying around and not eating or drinking well. Fortunately, the survival

Causes of Dog Pneumonia

The causes of pneumonia are numerous, with some more serious than others. How does a dog even get pneumonia?

There are four categories of pneumonia:

  • Bacterial
  • Viral
  • Fungal
  • Aspiration

Almost always, the dog must have inhaled a pathogen or infectious agent. He might have inhaled some droplets when another dog sneezed or coughed nearby and released viral particles or bacteria. Walking in the woods, he may have snorted in some fungal spores. While vomiting, he may have inhaled some food particles.

Less commonly, your dog may breathe in smoke or other toxic fumes. All these possible causes interfere with the normal exchange of carbon dioxide for oxygen in your dog’s lungs. The alveoli (air sacs) in the lungs may fill with fluid, pus, or inflammatory cells and interfere with oxygen movement.

Diagnosis of Pneumonia

The suspected cause of the pneumonia will influence treatment and prognosis. Your veterinarian will start with diagnostic procedures. Initially, auscultation (listening to your dog’s chest with a stethoscope) will give your veterinarian an idea of the problem. A complete history will provide possible exposures to various pathogens. Pneumonias often have multiple causes, such as bacteria acting with viruses to cause the illness.

The next step is usually X-rays. Some pneumonias will have a characteristic appearance on a film. Throat or nasal swabs may be taken and sometimes a tracheal wash (flushing some sterile fluid into the trachea and then drawing it back up) will be done. These lab techniques may identify bacteria or fungi and provide material for cultures, so your veterinarian can prescribe the most efficacious antibiotics.

Treatment of Dog Pneumonia

Treatment will depend on the pneumonia severity. Very ill dogs will need to be hospitalized, given intravenous (IV) fluids and supplemental oxygen, along with specific medications to battle the pathogen responsible.

Dogs who are still eating and drinking may be sent home with restrictions on activity. Nebulization can help, either with a nebulizer or simply keeping your dog in the bathroom while you shower. The warm steam helps to loosen debris in the lungs, making it easier for your dog to cough it up.

Coupage can help. In this nursing technique, which can be done at home, you use a cupped hand to lightly rap on your dog’s chest. This can help to loosen debris. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to do this.

Overall, about 80% of all dogs with pneumonia survive. Puppies, elderly dogs, and dogs with other chronic health conditions have a lower survival rate. Fungal pneumonias are notoriously difficult to treat and have a worse prognosis than bacterial pneumonia.

My Dog Is Not Eating

Boy sneaking dog food from the table
If your dog is otherwise healthy and normal, you may have to grab your detective hat to decide why your dog isn’t eating. Credit: John Howard | Getty Images

If your dog skips his meals for a day or two but is otherwise acting fine – no diarrhea, no vomiting, normal heart and respiration – you should be OK holding off on a veterinary visit. But not any longer than a day or two! And, if the fasting dog is a senior, a dog with any chronic health condition, a puppy, or appears at all ill, at a minimum, you need to call your veterinarian for advice.

 

 

Loss of Appetite in Dogs

Some health conditions can lead to a loss of appetite. A dog with kidney or liver problems may feel nauseous and not want to eat. Many of these dogs will approach their meals, drooling even, but will turn and walk away.

Check your dog’s mouth for any sign of injuries such as ulcers, a stick or bone caught across the roof of his mouth – it happens more often than you may think! – or an electrical burn from chomping on a cord. Many of these dogs will act fine, at least for a while, despite not eating.

Some dogs just seem to be naturally finicky, like, this week beef is the favorite protein but last week only salmon would do. This is where it pays to know your dog.

Loss of Appetite in Breeding Dogs

If your dog is an intact male and you have an attractive girl in heat (basically ANY girl in heat is attractive), your boy may be perfectly healthy but in lust. This includes any bitch in the neighborhood, not just in your household.

For most males this will only last for a couple of days, right around when the female is in “prime time.” Provided he does not have any health problems that could be exacerbated by fasting for a few days, simply figure you are saving on dog food.

Another healthy-but-not-eating scenario can occur in a female who is pregnant and suffering from something similar to morning sickness. This tends to happen around two to three weeks post breeding. Generally, these females will eat something at some point during the day. Occasionally, even false-pregnant bitches will do this, too.

Adolescents

On to the non-sex-related anorexic dogs, although somewhat related. Adolescent males often will not eat well. Despite your most tempting offerings, they will walk on by. Meanwhile, they are burning up calories and can get quite thin. This is usually a stage somewhere in between 6 to 12 months of age. Most of them do eat something, but it can be very frustrating to owners. This too shall pass.

Canine Secret Eating

Then we get to the tricky non-eaters. First, be sure that someone else is not feeding your dog. Another family member, a kind neighbor, your cat (usually inadvertently on the cat’s part). Some dogs are such gluttons that they will eat these extras plus their own meals, but others admit they are full. This includes dogs who hunt and scavenge on their own. If your dog is out catching and eating squirrels or rabbits, he truly may not be hungry. It could also be a change in the dog’s bowl you haven’t noticed.

If your dog won’t eat, you have a small window of time to evaluate the situation, The better you know your dog, the easier it is to decide. Taking the dog’s temperature, pulse, and respiration and watching for diarrhea, constipation, and changes in urine output is wise. Keep your veterinarian in the loop if your dog is at all very young, old, or battling a chronic disease. We don’t want you to take chances, but you usually don’t have to panic either.

How to Get Porcupine Quills Out of a Dog

Getting porcupine quills out of a dog is important to prevent infection.
Porcupine quills are painful and can carry infection. You need a veterinarian to help remove them, unless you’re sure the dog only received a couple of quills. Credit: MollyAnne | Getty Images

The worst case I have had of porcupine quills in a dog was a nightmare—literally. At 2 a.m., my veterinary technician and I tallied up the last of the 252 quills we pulled out of a dog who engaged a porcupine. That dog attacked, killed, and then rolled on his porcupine opponent. There were a lot of quills.

Let’s hope your dog is more cautious than the dog in this case. Most dogs usually gently poke a porcupine with their nose or dab at it with a paw, walking away with a sore nose or foot and just a few quills to be pulled.

But some dogs do go all out, attacking and killing the porcupine, leaving the scene with a face full of quills.

What Are Porcupine Quills?

Porcupine quills are modified hairs. They have barb-like scales on the hairs that help them to attach, and then, if not quickly pulled out, can migrate farther into your dog’s skin and body.

Porcupines don’t fling quills at potential attackers. Your dog must come up and touch them to get quilled.

If your dog is one of few sensible canines who only has two or three quills in his nose or muzzle, you might be able to remove them at home using needle-nose pliers. Your dog will have to be restrained, however, because it will hurt. The big concern is that your dog may have rubbed or chewed off some quills, so there are more in his skin than you think.

Veterinary Visit to Remove Quills

Most dogs get a muzzle or paw full of quills and often have quills in their mouths. Removing the quills requires a veterinarian and sedation. It hurts.

With your dog sedated, your veterinarian will do a thorough, full-body check for quills. With hairy dogs, you must run your hands over each inch of the dog’s body, feeling for quills or quill stumps. Often missed sites include between toes or in the mouth under the tongue or along the gum line inside the lips.

The skin and underlying tissues will be inflamed where the barbed quills penetrated deeper. It must be assumed that the quills carry infection and introduce bacteria into your dog. Most clinics will dispense pain medications and antibiotics. You will also need to observe your dog carefully for any swollen areas or areas that remain painful after a day or so.

The quills can migrate through tissues in your dog’s body. On rare occasions, a dog will develop a granulomatous abscess from a migrating quill. This can occur weeks or months later. Dogs have had abscesses in their lungs, liver, muscles, and sadly, on rare occasions in the brain.

Obviously, it’s best to avoid letting your dog interact with a porcupine. If you know of a porcupine den in your area, avoid it, and keep your dog on a leash. A porcupine is not going to come looking for trouble and, if left alone, will simply waddle away. If your dog pesters one, it will fling its tail about but not charge your dog unless it is defending porcupettes (baby porcupines).

Addressing Common Dog Behavioral Issues

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Jumping is one of the most common dog behavioral issues.
Jumping up to greet people is a common problem dog owners face but there are training techniques that can help. Credit: SolStock | Getty Images

There are quite a few behaviors that are normal and natural for dogs that just don’t work very well in the human world. Whether it’s humping other dogs or barking at the neighbor’s cat, these behaviors can be disruptive and, in some cases, can even lead to a dog being surrendered or rehomed. Luckily, there are often training solutions for these common dog behavioral issues.

 

 

How to Stop a Dog from Digging

Digging is a natural, normal behavior for many dogs but that doesn’t mean you have to put up with holes everywhere. To stop a dog from digging, you first need to understand where the behavior is coming from.

There are a number of reasons dogs dig including to explore, relieve boredom or stress, create a cool spot to rest in, escape, chase underground critters, or just for the fun of it. Given that digging often stems from boredom or looking for some fun, one of the best ways to reduce the urge is by making sure your dog is getting enough mental stimulation and exercise. Walks, training, enrichment toys, playtime, and socialization can all help liven up a dog’s life and keep him from turning to behaviors—like digging—that you would prefer he avoid.

The more your dog loves to dig, the harder it will be to get him to stop. You can remove temptation by:

  • Locating any areas in the yard that might be particularly inviting for digging—such as gopher holes and loose dirt piles—and keeping your dog away from them. To do so, you will need to supervise your dog in the yard or use a dog run or exercise pen.
  • Giving your dog an area where he is allowed to dig can also help prevent holes in spots you’d rather keep un-dug. If your dog is already an established digger, try creating a digging pit for him by filling a kid’s sandbox or plastic wading pool with sand or dirt and burying his toys in it. Introduce him to the game by showing him the digging pit and helping him uncover a few toys.
  • Replacing most of the dirt and an already-dug hole, adding collected dog feces to the hole, and covering it the rest of the way up. With several repetitions, this may discourage some dogs from digging.

Finally, if your dog is digging to get out of a fenced yard or pen, you will probably need to build a better fence. If you can’t be there to supervise, there’s no easy way to compete with all of the excitement on the other side of a barrier.

For a closer look, see “What to Do if Your Dog Digs Where You Don’t Want Him To.”

How to Stop a Dog from Eating Poop

“Coprophagia,” or poop eating, is one of the grosser things—from a human perspective—that dogs do. While eating poop is normal for dogs, the behavior can cause problems beyond just the ick-factor since it puts dogs at risk of contracting intestinal parasites and diseases such as parvovirus. It can also be a symptom of an underlying medical condition or nutritional deficiency.

For this reason, the first step you should take if your dog is eating poop is to have her examined by a veterinarian to rule out any possible medical causes. If she gets a clean bill of health, your best bet will be developing strategies for managing the behavior. These can include:

  • Cleaning up after your dog as soon as possible.
  • Removing access to other animal feces such as putting cat litterboxes out of reach.
  • Teaching a ‘leave it’ cue and supervising your dog.
  • Training your dog to be comfortable in a basket muzzle. (As with any new equipment, do NOT just put a muzzle on a dog who has never worn one before. You will need to develop a training plan that creates a positive association with the muzzle.)

Coprophagia can also be caused by boredom, stress, and anxiety. Increasing the amount of mental stimulation your dog is getting and working with a trainer to identify and address any stress or anxiety your dog is feeling may help stop a dog from eating poop.

For further information, see “Help! Why Does My Dog Eat Poop?

How to Train a Dog to Stop Barking

Barking is one of the primary ways dogs communicate but it can become a problem when a dog barks too much, too loudly, or at the wrong time for her human companions. To train a dog to stop barking, you first need to figure out why she is vocalizing. Depending on the reason, you can use techniques such as counterconditioning and desensitization, training a positive interrupt, and ignoring the behavior to help modify excessive barking.

Common reasons for barking include:

  • Alarm/Alert: Dogs will bark to let human and canine companions know that there is something dangerous or interesting nearby. Counterconditioning and desensitization and use of a positive interrupt can help.
  • Anxiety: Some dogs will bark when they are nervous or afraid. Consult with a professional behaviorist to better assess how to manage your dog’s anxiety.
  • Boredom: As with many other “problem” behaviors, a lack of mental stimulation and exercise can result in a dog who barks for entertainment. Whether it’s taking her with you to run errands or introducing her to puzzle toys, find more for the dog to do.
  • Demand: Some dogs will bark when they want something—like attention or treats. To reduce demand barking, ignore your dog when she is barking and reward her when she is quiet.
  • Frustration: While similar to demand barking, frustration barking is directed at the thing the dig can’t have. Use a positive interrupt along with counterconditioning and desensitization.
  • Greeting/Excitement: Dogs will often bark when they are excited or to say hello—like when you come home after a long day at work. As with demand barking, ignore your dog until she is calm and greet her once she is quiet.
  • Play: Many dogs bark during play. If it gets to be too much, a “time-out” technique where you remove your dog from play for a few minutes—usually by putting her on a short leash—can help. You can also teach her to hold a toy in her mouth.

For a more detailed look at types of barking and how to modify them, see “How to Stop a Dog from Barking.”

How to Stop a Dog from Humping

Despite common misconceptions, humping behavior in dogs is generally not due to either an intent to reproduce or displays of dominance. It is normal canine behavior and both male and female dogs will hump other dogs—or furniture, toys, cushions, and even humans—for reasons including play, stress or anxiety, excitement, attention-seeking, and masturbation. It can also (rarely) be a symptom of obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD).

While humping behavior is natural for dogs, it can become a nuisance to humans and other dogs alike. To stop a dog from humping try the following steps:

  • First, speak with your vet to rule out any potential medical causes for the behavior.
  • Increase how much exercise and mental stimulation your dog is getting.
  • Reduce stress.
  • Train and use a positive interrupt such as “Walk Away” to stop the behavior while it is happening.
  • Train for good manners (polite greetings, down, touch, place, etc.).
  • Consult with a reputable fear-free trainer or behaviorist if the behavior persists.

For an in-depth discussion, see “Why Do Dogs Hump (and What You Can Do).”

How to Stop a Dog from Jumping on People

From muddy pawprints to knocking someone over, jumping up on people is not a behavior to encourage. There is no single answer for how to stop a dog from jumping on people. Dogs jump up for a number of reasons—to get attention, to say hello, to get information, or for comfort—and each requires a different approach.

If your dog is jumping on people to get attention or to say hello, the best method for stopping the behavior is by training and generously reinforcing incompatible behaviors. The goal is to teach your dog that attention comes when she sits politely:

  • Be prepared and reward her with treats or attention before she has a chance to jump up.
  • When out in public, let people who ask to say hi to her know that they can pet her if she sits but to please stop and back up if she jumps.
  • If she has trouble sitting still (or just for fun!), teach other cues incompatible with jumping such as “Search” or have visitors throw a toy for her when they walk in the door.

If your dog is jumping on people to get information about them—which can happen when a dog is uncertain or cautious around new people—it’s best to prevent direct interaction until the dog is more comfortable. Do not let the new person pet or approach the dog—or the dog approach the person—until the dog is relaxed and comfortable.

If your dog is jumping up to seek comfort, it’s okay to comfort her. If possible, comfort her before she has a chance to start jumping. Stay calm, remove the frightening thing if possible, and figure out what works to make her feel better (holding her, petting her, doing some training exercises, favorite treats, etc.). If nothing seems to work or if the behavior worsens, don’t be afraid to contact a behaviorist or trainer for help.

For more information, see “How to Stop Your Dog From Jumping on People.”

Finally, don’t forget that you are not alone! For any dog behavioral issues where you are feeling stuck, seek help from a force-free trainer or certified behaviorist.

What Works—and What Doesn’t—to Help Your Dog Through Adolescence

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Adolescent dogs can be a handful
Adolescent dogs can get into world-class trouble, especially if they who have too much unsupervised time on their paws, a poorly managed environment, and/or not enough physical and mental stimulation.. Photo credit: Steve Cicero, Getty Images

When I was first introduced to what was then referred to as “positive dog training,” my son was about 5 years old. What I learned about this style of working with dogs—and especially puppies—jibed completely with how I wanted to raise my son. Principles like “catch them doing something right” (offer praise and reinforcement frequently for behaviors that are freely offered and are the things you’d like to see them doing), managing the environment to set them up for success, and communicating clearly about what behaviors you want (instead of forbidding/simply saying “No” to behaviors you don’t like) made perfect sense to me. I often say that positive dog training is responsible for my son turning out so well. At age 32, he’s successful, kind, responsible, a great dog owner, and soon to become a parent himself!

Recently, though, I have become more and more obsessed with how what is now called “force-free” dog training can help adolescent dogs in particular. I see so many parallels between the most effective ways to raise a teenager and how to get a dog through adolescence without ever feeling like you want to put them up for adoption.

I am not being flippant; adolescent dogs are at the greatest risk of being abandoned or surrendered to shelters and euthanized there. Walk through any animal shelter or flip through photos on rescue websites and you will quickly see that there are more homeless adolescent dogs than dogs of any other ages. Adolescents—generally, dogs between about 6 and 24 months—are surrendered to shelters more frequently than dogs of any other age, and they are often the most difficult to find homes for, especially after their behavior gets worse and worse as they grow increasingly frustrated and stressed in a shelter. Humans clearly have a difficult time dealing with dogs in this age bracket!

And it’s understandable! Adolescents are undergoing physical and chemical changes that give them a biological imperative to explore their worlds, become more independent, and to seek out food, social opportunities, and entertainment—but, restricted by the human environment and our schedules, these natural, normal impulses are often obstructed. Struggling with frustration and boredom causes many young dogs to behave in ways we don’t like, as our formerly perfect puppies develop new hobbies of chewing or otherwise destroying things in our homes, demand-barking, agitating other animals in the gamily, fence-running or fence-fighting, and more.

Just as some parents threaten (or follow through on threats) to send their misbehaving teenagers to military or boarding school, some dog owners become tempted to send their rambunctious, “uncontrollable” canine adolescents to a training “boot camp” or “board and train” facility. The conceit is that you send your obnoxious, naughty dog away and receive a polite, better-behaved dog back—but believe me when I say that this approach is fraught with peril. I can’t count how many news articles I’ve read about dogs who were injured, starved, neglected, and even killed by so-called trainers who “guaranteed” good results from their training program. But perhaps even more frequently, I’ve heard from trainers who told sad stories about dogs who came back from harsh training boot camps with a newfound fear and mistrust of humans, or a brand-new tendency to respond to their owners’ approach with defensive aggression.

To put it bluntly, trying to force a dog into compliance in any abbreviated time span, absent a loving, attentive, understanding owner, is a recipe for disaster.

Here’s what works well with adolescents of all species, to help them pass through and past the challenges of “teenagehood” and into a well-behaved, enjoyable adulthood:

What Are the Different Types of Assistance Dogs?

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Service dogs come in many different types and can help with multiple conditions.
Service dogs for the blind are probably the most widely known type of assistance dog, but now dogs are also trained to detect illness, provide emotional support to those with PTSD, and more.

Service dogs are more than just well-behaved canine companions adorned in cool vests. These dogs are highly trained partners, each uniquely equipped to provide life-changing assistance to individuals with a wide range of disabilities. They are also a testament to the deep bond between humans and dogs, offering not just practical help but also emotional support and a sense of security.

“Any dog can be a service dog,” says Michelle Cote, a Connecticut-based trainer specializing in service-dog certification for veterans, first responders, and civilians struggling with conditions like post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), anxiety, and depression.

A good service dog must possess certain key qualities. Cote says they need to be “easy to train and have a will to please, but they also need a sense of civil disobedience to do what they have been trained to do—they need to know what’s right and make independent decisions.”

They also need a keen sense of observation. But perhaps most importantly, they require a remarkable sense of calmness and focus, allowing them to work effectively in public spaces amid distractions.

5 Different Types of Service Dogs

While there are many types of service dogs, these are the most common types:

  • Psychiatric-services dogs are trained to assist individuals with mental health conditions such as anxiety, depression and PTSD. These dogs offer emotional support, performing calming behaviors like nuzzling or providing deep pressure therapy
  • Visually impaired service dogs, arguably the best-known service dogs, guide dogs are trained to assist individuals who are blind or visually impaired and help them navigate through public spaces, alerting them.
  • Hearing-impaired service dogs are trained to assist individuals who are deaf or hard of hearing. They are trained to detect and alert their owners to sounds like doorbells, smoke detectors, and phones.
  • Mobility assistance dogs serve individuals with limited mobility and are trained to perform tasks like retrieving dropped items, opening doors, and pulling wheelchairs, and even providing balance support.
  • Autism service dogs support those on the autism spectrum. For children, they provide physical safety and emotional support. Cote said autism service dogs also provide support to families, helping them engage in activities as simple as going to the park or out for dinner.

Specialized Medical Service Dogs

The field of service dogs is constantly evolving to meet individual needs and several types of specialized service dogs are emerging:

  • Diabetic service dogs can detect changes in blood sugar levels, alerting their diabetic handler to take corrective measures.
  • Allergy detection dogs are trained to identify allergens like peanuts and help individuals with severe allergies stay safe.
  • Seizure alert service dogs detect the onset of seizures and are trained to help keep their handler safe during an episode.

Service Dogs Allowed

The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) protects the rights of handlers and their service dogs. With few exceptions, services dogs are allowed anywhere their handlers frequents.  The ADA defines a service animal as a dog that:

  • Is individually trained to do work or perform tasks for a person with a disability.
  • The tasks performed by the dog must be directly related to the person’s disability.
  • The disability can be physical, sensory, psychiatric, intellectual or mental.

Business owners, managers and staff cannot ask for documentation or medical information of any kind and may ask only two questions, according to the ADA:

  1. Is the dog a service animal required because of a disability?
  2. What work or task has the dog been trained to perform?

A Lesson For All Dog Owners

Beyond the assistances service dogs provide their owners, a study by Purdue University’s Human-Animal Bond Research Institute suggests the bond goes deeper.

The study involved 120 individuals with disabilities and measured their levels of anxiety, depression, anger, loneliness and sleep quality compared to before they started working with their service dogs.

The results showed a significant decrease in anxiety, anger, and loneliness after partnering with a service dog. While the study focused on service dogs and their handlers, the findings are a reminder of the mental benefits dogs provide to all owners.

The Best Dog Scratch Pads for Fear-Free Nail Trims

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Dog scratch pads provide an alternative to clippers for keeping dog nails trimmed.
Whole Dog Journal tested four dog scratch pads looking for the best options for fear-free nail trims. Credit: Jae Thomas

A ton of dogs find nail trims scary and stressful. If your dog wiggles, pulls their paws away, or becomes overly stressed when you trim their nails, there are other options than just using nail clippers or a dremel. Namely, the best dog scratch pads will allow force-free, cooperative care nail trims that your dog can opt into.

What are Dog Scratch Pads?

A dog scratch board or scratch pad is usually a wooden or plastic board with an abrasive material like sandpaper adhered to one side. Some scratch pads have additional features like treat compartments to make training easier, while others are puzzle toys with an abrasive surface built in for use while playing.

Dog scratch boards are used to train dogs to file down their own nails, without the anxiety that may come from using a nail clipper or dremel. Scratch boards are great cooperative care options for dogs who don’t like having their feet touched.

Traits We Want in a Dog Scratch Pad

A product that’s designed to be pawed and scratched at should be durable enough to grind down thick dog nails, and easy to train your dog to use. Here are three things to look for when buying a dog scratch pad:

  • A durable, abrasive surface: A scratch pad needs to be strong enough to grind down even large dogs’ nails, so a strong surface is a must. We tested each scratch board on this list, and recommended the options with the most resilient material. If you need to constantly change out the sandpaper or other abrasive material, you might be less inclined to use the board often.
  • Training resources: If you’ve never taught your dog how to paw at something, training resources for a scratch pad are extremely helpful to get you started. We preferred the scratch pads that came with written and video resources, and one that we tested even comes with lifetime access to a dog trainer to answer any questions or troubleshoot the training process.
  • Extra features: Though not necessary, we did notice that extra features sometimes made training easier, depending on the dog. If you know your dog likes to dig, a built-in treat compartment can help them understand the scratch pad better. If your dog already knows how to target objects with their front paws however, extra features will likely be unnecessary.

Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.

Read on for the best dog scratch pads tested for Whole Dog Journal:

WDJ RatingProduct Name/MakerPriceSizes/ColorsNotes
OriginalScratchPad for Dogs$42Medium, coarse, or combo abrasion level

Single or double sided design

Option for refill package
A straightforward design, extremely durable sandpaper, free shipping, free trainer support, and a reasonable price make the Original ScratchPad the best dog scratch pad we tested.
DiggerDog nail file$79, or $66 for models with slight cosmetic imperfections +$41 for shipping to the U.S. from
Diggerdognailfie.com

$149, or $119 for models with slight cosmetic imperfections with free shipping from Amazon.
Only one size/color optionThe center treat compartment of this scratch board made it the easiest to train dogs to use. However, it’s more than times the price of our top pick stainless steel plate doesn’t need to be replaced.
De'Vora Scratch Square$35 - $55 based on sizeSmall, medium, large sizesThe medium size was too small for our tester dogs, and though this is supposed to be a 3-in-1 enrichment toy, tug toy, and nail file, none of the functions worked quite as well as they were supposed to.
Zenly Paws Dog Nail File Toy$35Only one size/color optionA complicated two-step puzzle toy that may be too difficult for some dogs. Our tester dogs had issues scratching, pushing the button to release treats, and then figuring out how to get the treats.

Whole Dog Journal’s Pick for the Best Dog Scratch Pad: Original ScratchPad for Dogs

The original Scratchpad was the top rated dog scratch pad of those reviewed.
Effective and easy to use, the Original ScratchPad for Dogs was the best of the dog scratch pads tested. Credit: Jae Thomas

Of the four models we tested, the Original ScratchPad for Dogs is the best dog scratch pad. It has a large abrasive area appropriate for all sized dogs (even large breeds), and the professional-grade sandpaper filed down our tester dogs’ nails the quickest. ScratchPad also offers a quality guarantee on the sandpaper insert on the board, and will offer a replacement pack for free if it wears out before six months.

The biggest downside of the Original ScratchPad is that it may take longer to train your dog to use it than our runner up option, the DiggerDog Nail File. We tested both options on six different dogs, and all six of our tester dogs learned how to use the DiggerDog the quickest. Some dogs that we tested the ScratchPad with didn’t quite understand targeting a flat board with their paws, but five out of the six dogs at least partially figured it out within one 30-minute session. If your dog already knows how to target objects with their front paws, it’ll likely be easy to teach them to scratch the ScratchPad.

Though it was one of the scratch boards that took longer to teach some dogs during testing, don’t let this deter you from trying. The brand has online training resources to get you and your pup started on cooperative nail care, and also offers free, unlimited lifetime training support from a professional trainer to troubleshoot any training problems that may pop up while using the product.

Runners Up for the Best Dog Scratch Pad

Diggerdog was the second best of the dog scratch pads reviewed.
The sliding treat compartment on the DiggerDog nail file made it easy for all of the tester dogs to figure out. Credit: Jae Thomas

The DiggerDog nail file is a great option for most dogs, especially dogs who don’t have any paw targeting training. The DiggerDog features a sliding compartment in the center for treats, which can be opened by the handler once a dog paws at the board. All six of our tester dogs (one of them being a nearly 11-year-old collie) easily figured out that digging at the center compartment would release the treats. Turns out that you can teach an old dog new tricks.

The DiggerDog is by far the quickest and easiest scratch pad to train your dog to use of the options we tested. In comparison to the ScratchPad however, the DiggerDog’s surface filed down dogs’ nails slightly less during testing.

The main downside of the DiggerDog is the price. Handmade in Australia, the units run $79 on the brand’s direct site and $66 for units with minor cosmetic imperfections, with shipping to the U.S. costing around $41 to most areas of the country. On Amazon, the scratch boards have free shipping, but cost $149 for brand-new models, or $119 for units with minor cosmetic imperfections. The DiggerDog prices are more than double every other option we tested, but if you have the cash and want a scratch pad your dog will learn to use almost immediately, we recommend it.

The De’Vora Scratch Square didn’t quite live up to our expectations. Though the Scratch Square is supposed to do triple duty as a nail file, a chew/tug toy and a fillable enrichment toy, we had qualms with all of the features. The actual nail file section seemed too small in the recommended medium size for our 40–45-pound tester dogs. There isn’t enough area for dogs to efficiently grind down their own nails. In comparison to the DiggerDog and the ScratchPad, the Scratch Square material was less abrasive and less effective at grinding down nails.

Dogs can potentially use the Scratch Square as a tug and chew toy, but this doesn’t seem necessary. Some user reviews remarked that their dogs ended up chewing the abrasive section of the toy instead of just the handles. The fillable enrichment section also doesn’t quite work as advertised. The idea behind this feature is to fill the middle of the Scratch Square with treats, then have your dog scratch and paw at the toy to get the treats. However, the treat compartment in this toy isn’t directly correlated to the act of scratching or digging — all of our tester dogs simply went for the middle treat compartment, bypassing the scratching/pawing altogether.

The dog scracth pad offering from Zenly was a better puzzle than nail file.
The Zenly Paws Dog Nail File was more effective as a puzzle toy than a nail file. ToyCredit: Jae Thomas

Similar to the Scratch Square, the Zenly Paws Dog Nail File Toy has too many features that didn’t quite work as expected. Built like a fillable enrichment puzzle toy, the Zenly Paws scratch pad has a central compartment that you fill with food, which acts as a big button when a dog presses it. The top of the button is covered with a sandpaper-like material. When a dog presses this button, food is released into smaller compartments that are covered with plastic doors that the dog then needs to open with its nose or paw.

The main issue with the Zenly Paws toy is that dogs who learn to scratch the sandpaper on the top may not actually put enough pressure on the button to legitimately press it and release the food. Vice versa, dogs may learn to simply press down on the button without using their nails to scratch at the sandpaper. Some of our tester dogs also had trouble with the two-step puzzle of this toy, since they needed to press the button, then lift the plastic doors to get the food. This is not a beginner level puzzle toy, and dogs who haven’t worked on two-step puzzles before will likely get frustrated or become disinterested in it.

What is Cooperative Care?

According to Nancy Bureau, DVM, CVA, FFCP of fear-free certified Left Hand Animal Hospital in Niwot, CO, “Cooperative care is partnering with the animal and allowing them to be part of the decision to proceed or not with the care you are offering.” Bureau says that to train a dog to opt into cooperative care, you can reward them with treats, toys, or praise.

The most popular method of cooperative care for dog nail trims is to use a dog scratch pad to teach your dog to grind down their own nails. Using a marker system and rewards, you can train a dog to use their front paws to dig or scratch on the abrasive surface of the scratch board. This method allows dogs to have agency in their care and can make nail trims feel more like a fun game that they’re rewarded for instead of a scary thing they’re forced to do.

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