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Apoquel Quickly Addresses Itchy Skin

A golden retriever scratching their ear.
Apoquel can soothe many itches in as little as four hours, although infections still need to be treated. Credit: More Than Words Photography by Alisa Brouwer | Getty Images

In 2014, Zoetis released an oral medication that significantly changed how itchy dogs are treated today. Apoquel (oclacitinib maleate) is an FDA-approved medication for use in dogs at least 12 months of age to treat atopic and allergic dermatitis. In 2024, a flavored, chewable form of Apoquel was made available (pork liver flavor, containing pork and soy). Apoquel has provided a way to quickly address itching in dogs, with relief possible in as little as four hours.

Controlling the Itch

Generally, the three primary reasons a dog might be itchy are:

  • External parasitism (fleas, mites, etc.)
  • Airborne allergies (atopic dermatitis)
  • Dietary sensitivity (allergic dermatitis)

Prior to the release of Apoquel, treating an itchy dog was difficult and largely disappointing. Typical treatments included:

  • Control of external parasites (spot-on topicals, flea/tick collars, oral medications, lime-sulfur dips)
  • Steroids (these had multiple side effects, including excessive drinking, urination, and appetite)
  • Modified cyclosporine (cost-prohibitive for many dog owners)
  • Hyposensitization therapy (injectable or sublingual, which can take months to years to have an effect, only 60% to 70% success rate),
  • Strict dietary therapy with a prescription diet (hydrolyzed or novel protein/novel carbohydrate)
  • Medicated baths
  • Oral antihistamines
  • Omega-3 fatty acid supplements

Enter Apoquel for Dogs

Apoquel is an immunomodulator (JAK inhibitor) that inhibits cytokines involved in the itch and inflammation pathways. Onset to relief is as soon as four hours. The approved dose of Apoquel is 0.18 to 0.27 mg oclacitinib/lb (0.4 to 0.6 mg clacitinib/kg) body weight, administered orally, twice daily for up to 14 days, and then administered once daily for maintenance therapy. Apoquel can be used seasonally, or throughout the year. Apoquel can be given with or without food. Apoquel is available in 3.6 mg, 5.4 mg, and 16 mg tablets and is a prescription medication. Follow your prescriber’s recommendation for dosages, but you can access the Zoetis dosing chart here.

Cautions With Apoquel

Apoquel should not be used in dogs less than 12 months old, dogs who are breeding, pregnant or nursing, or dogs who have severe infections. Apoquel can make a dog more susceptible to infection, including demodicosis (overgrowth of Demodex mite) or severe cancerous conditions. Dogs on Apoquel should be monitored for these potential conditions.

While Apoquel is not likely to increase the risk of new cancers, it can make pre-existing cancer worse. In other words, a pre-existing tumor may get bigger. Apoquel can be given with antibiotics and vaccines. According to Zoetis, Apoquel has not been evaluated for use in conjunction with steroids, cyclosporine, or other systemic immunosuppressive agents.

Apoquel Side Effects

The most commonly reported side effects in the post-approval period include vomiting, lethargy, inappetence, and diarrhea.

In the itchy dog, external parasites and infections will still need to be treated, as these disease states can cause more problems than just itching.

There are dogs whose itch cannot be fully controlled using Apoquel, and for those cases, a discussion with the dog’s veterinarian or a veterinary dermatologist is recommended for additional or replacement therapies.

Low-Fat Dog Food for Weight Management

Weight management dog food, along with exercise can help dogs lose weight.
A fat dog is not a happy dog. His excess weight makes for painful joints, so he doesn’t want to move, which only worsens the situation. Dogs love to eat, just as we do, but it’s up to us to control his weight.

The best dog food to help dogs lose weight is one that is formulated to provide fewer calories per serving, while still meeting the minimum requirements of essential nutrients, as defined by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). A label on the side of the food with the AAFCO Statement assures you nutritional needs are met. But what about low-fat dog foods and calorie levels?

In dogs, excess energy (calories) consumption is a common issue in weight control problems. This is due to a variety of factors including the high calorific density and palatability of many dog foods, low activity levels, and supplemental treats, toppers, and foods.

The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) estimates show that over 40% of dogs are considered overweight, or 10% to 15% above their desired body weight, and 25% of dogs are considered obese, which is 20% to 25% above their desired bodyweight.

Excess energy intake has several detrimental effects on dogs during growth, especially on the skeletal growth in puppies of large or giant breeds. Excessive energy intake during growth also impacts the total number of fat cells present in the body, meaning that overfeeding a puppy can contribute to obesity later in the dog’s life. Once a fat cell has been formed, it will never go away, and research has shown that individual fat cells produce hormones that increase appetite and hunger and help the fat cell to retain its stored fat.

Obesity has been linked to the development of orthopedic problems later in life, such as arthritis, as well as increasing the likelihood of diabetes, hyperlipidemia, pancreatitis, and heart failure. One study showed that by reducing the amount of food fed to a controlled group of labradors by 25% they lived an average of 1.5 years longer and had lower incidences of orthopedic problems, cancer, and metabolic diseases.

While we all strive to keep our companions in tiptop shape, changes in lifestyle, age, or environment can lead to weight gain, for both us and our pets. So, what is the best course of action if you have an overweight or obese dog, and what is the best dog food for weight loss?

Choosing a dog food designed for weight management is key to helping your pet achieve and maintain a healthy weight without causing any nutritional deficiencies. Weight management, weight control, and lite formulas are fancy ways to say “diet dog foods,” which focus on achieving nutritional adequacy while being low in calories. These diets are formulated to provide fewer calories per serving but still provide adequate essential nutrients, as defined by AAFCO. In addition, these diets also typically allow owners to feed their dog a larger volume of food, helping their pet to feel full and satiated longer.

When looking for a weight-loss formula, look for diets that contain high-quality proteins. Protein is essential for maintaining lean muscle mass, especially during weight loss. Dogs require protein to maintain and build muscle tissue, repair cells, maintain healthy skin and coat, and more. Protein can also be used as an energy source for dogs. Proteins are metabolized throughout the day, providing sustained energy levels. Lean meats, such as chicken, turkey, rabbit, kangaroo, and venison, are optimal as they are high in protein while also being low in fat.

While fat is an essential nutrient for our dogs, fat is very energy dense and should be avoided in excess. Because of this, weight-management formulas typically have a significantly lower fat content compared to conventional dog diets and may be marketed as low fat dog foods.

Diets that are higher in fiber can help your dog feel full and satiated without adding additional calories to the diet. You may see ingredients such as cellulose (plant fiber), miscanthus grass, or beet pulp added to weight-management diets to help add additional fiber. Many vegetables are also high in fiber, low in calories, and can provide beneficial vitamins and minerals to your dog.

Weight management dog food along with exercise can help your dog get to a healthy weight.
Keeping your dog at an optimal weight and physically fit is as critical to his health and longevity as it is to you. Credit: Vgajic | Getty Images

If your dog enjoys veggies, adding unsalted green beans to their food can help add bulk to their meals while also providing additional vitamins and minerals. Carrots, bell peppers, and zucchini make for a great low-calorie, nutritious snack or treat for pups striving for weight loss as well. While fiber is fantastic for aiding weight loss, excess fiber can cause flatulence, constipation, or diarrhea, so be sure to introduce vegetables to your pup slowly and in moderation.

Excess weight can put a lot of strain on joints, so look for a weight-management formula that includes ingredients to support joint health. Fish oils and marine microalgal oil provide a great source of omega-3 fatty acids, which have been shown to help reduce inflammation and support joint health. Glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate may also be added to the diet and may benefit overweight dogs prone to joint issues.

If the diet does not contain ingredients to support joint health, they can be added in the form of a joint supplement. It is important to note that fish oils, fatty fish, and green-lipped mussels are calorie dense, so they should be supplemented in moderation and carefully measured.

Choosing the right food for weight loss and management is essential for ensuring your dog reaches and maintains a healthy weight and enjoys a long, healthy life. By selecting a balanced, calorie-controlled diet that prioritizes high quality, lean protein, and is formulated with high-quality, whole, ingredients, you can support your dog’s weight management goals. Always monitor your dog’s progress and consult your veterinarian for personalized care and routine body condition score (BCS) assessments. Be sure to adjust feeding based on your dog’s activity levels and rate of weight loss. With proper diet and regular exercise, you and your dog can maintain a healthy weight for years to come.

Subscribers can search for dog foods that meet your pet’s specific needs using our WDJ Online Database of approved foods.

The 4 Best Chew-Proof Dog Beds

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Indestructible dog beds don't really exist, but there are very tough dog beds available.
While no bed is truly indestructible, there are some good, durable options available for heavy chewers. Credit: Jae Thomas

Not all dogs appreciate curling up in a plush bed and taking a nap. If your dog would rather pull all the stuffing out of her bed instead of resting in it, consider buying one specifically made for chewers. The best chew-proof dog beds will ensure your pup is comfortable and has joint support while sleeping while also keep you from constantly spending money to replace shredded dog bedding.

 

 

Traits We Want in a Chew-Proof Dog Bed

There are a ton of dog beds on the market that claim to be indestructible but can still be destroyed by a persistent pup. Look for these three things when shopping for a chew-proof dog bed:

A chew-proof warranty: Most high-quality “indestructible” beds will come complete with (at least) a 30- to 60-day warranty. Some of the products I tested have chew-proof guarantees for even longer—up to the lifetime of the product. If your dog chews through the beds within the warranty window, most companies will replace or fix your product, or refund your money. If you’re worried about dropping a lot of cash on a fancy bed that your dog might shred up immediately, a chew-proof warranty makes the risk a little more worth it.

Products made with chew resistant materials: Fluffy, fuzzy beds might seem more like a chew toy to your dog than a comfortable place to sleep. If your dog has destroyed a bed before, look for materials that discourage chewing, like metal or plastic frames, and strong ripstop or ballistic nylon fabric. Raised cots usually check these boxes and are typically a better-suited design for chewers than traditional foam or filled dog beds.

Minimal or no padding: There are chew-resistant cushioned dog beds, but if you have a super chewer who is prone to ripping foam and eating stuffing or fabric you should steer clear of anything with padding as a safety precaution.

Why Do Dogs Chew Their Beds?

Whether your dog is an adult or a puppy plays into why they might be deconstructing their bedding. According to Whole Dog Journal writer Elizabeth Vecsi, puppies and adolescents engage in “exploratory chewing” for as long as two years. An adult dog might chew up their bedding because of a lack of physical and mental activity, a stressful change in environment, or even for a medical reason.

If you’re dealing with a puppy who is chewing up their beds constantly, you can practice the trade game to discourage unwanted nibbling and give your puppy an appropriate outlet to chew (like a chew or toy instead of their bed). You may also need to only allow puppies bedding while they’re supervised to ensure they don’t ingest any fabric or wadding.

Know that even products marketed as indestructible dog beds are likely not 100% indestructible, even if designed to discourage chewing. If your dog or puppy is liable to rip up any fabric bed in his crate or otherwise, err on the side of caution. Taking away your dog’s bedding while you get to the root cause of the chewing is better than dealing with an intestinal obstruction caused by your dog ingesting pieces of a bed.

Read on for the best chew-proof and chew-resistant dog beds I tested for WDJ:

Best Chew-Proof Dog Beds

WDJ RatingProduct/ManufacturerPriceSizes/ColorsNotes
K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Rip-Stop Elevated Dog Bed$129-$199S-XXL

Obsidian, Sandstone, Blue Quartz
The best choice for strong, persistent chewers, this K9 Ballistics bed is designed to discourage dogs from biting it. The aluminum frame comes with reinforced corners connected by durable ballistic material for your dog to rest on. The bed has a little bit of give that offers comfort without the risk of extra fabric that can be chewed on. It works as a crate pad or a standalone cot and can be used with or without the detachable legs. You’ll also score a 120-day chew-proof warranty.
Primo Pads$31-$10513”x22”-36”x54"

Black, blue, green, pink, purple, red, tan
Primo Pads are the budget pick of this list with prices starting at $31 for small crate pads. They come in dozens of sizes for multiple different crate types and can even be custom ordered. I love how easy they are to clean—just hose or wipe them down and let them dry. The optional add-on lockdown system for wire crates will keep your pup from accessing the sides or corners to chew on. I wish Primo Pads came with a slightly longer warranty—the brand will only replace a chewed-up pad one time if it’s damaged within 30 days.
Orvis RecoveryZone ToughChew Couch Dog Bed$303-$423S-XL

Brown, Slate, Granite, Khaki
A supportive, padded option for light and moderate chewers, the Orvis RecoveryZone ToughChew has a tightly woven cover and firm foam inserts. I love that the foam is protected by a water-resistant material and that the main cover is machine washable. It stood up to digging/nesting by my tester dogs and the assembly was a breeze in comparison to other similarly sized foam beds I’ve tested.
K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Padded Elevated Dog Crate Bed$138-$209S-XXL

Obsidian, Sandstone, Blue Quartz
One step down in durability from its non-padded counterpart, this K9 Ballistics raised cot adds padding to the center for additional support and comfort. The padding, however, may be more enticing to dogs who like to chew.

The Best Chew Proof Dog Bed: K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Rip-Stop Elevated Dog Bed

The K9 Ballistics chew-proof dog bed is close to an indestructible dog bed.
With its aluminum frame and ballistic fabric, the K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Rip-Stop Elevated Dog Bed is built to stand up to some serious chewing. Credit: Jae Thomas

I was impressed with all of the chew-proof and chew-resistant dog beds I tested, but the K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Rip-Stop Elevated Dog Bed came out on top. It’s about as chew-proof as dog beds come with a sturdy aluminum frame, aluminum reinforced corners, and waterproof ballistic fabric. It’s raised off the ground, so dogs get circulation under them to stay cool in hot weather—a great feature for heavily coated breeds.

I liked how easy this bed was to put together—all I needed to do was screw the four legs on. It works well as a crate bed since it comes in most standard crate sizes. I found that it’s nearly impossible for dogs to chew on when used in a properly sized crate—the edges sit flush with the sides, and don’t allow much room for a dog to get their teeth around the edges or legs.

I work part time as a kennel and dog show assistant for a Malamute breeder who has 14 dogs and she has these beds in most of the dogs’ kennels. These working dogs are large, exuberant, and hard on their gear. The K9 Ballistics beds have been in the indoor and outdoor sections of the kennels for months with minimal to no signs of wear. They hold up to rain, being hosed down, and strong dog toenails.

This bed comes with K9 Ballistics’ 120-day chew-proof warranty which means the brand will offer you a one-time-only credit to replace the damaged bed within that time frame. I do wish that the warranty was longer than 120 days—other options on this list have chew proof guarantees up to a year or even for the lifetime of the product.

The Best Chew Proof Dog Bed for Crates

While not indestructible the Primo Pad is one tough dog bed.
Primo Pads provide sturdy comfort and fit well in most dog crates. Credit: Jae Thomas

Primo Pads have been loved by dog sport and dog show exhibitors for years and they’re one of the best options for a chew-proof dog bed for crates. They’re made of firm closed-cell foam and covered in a waterproof, dust-proof, and hair-proof outer material. There are no zippers or stitching on these beds since they’re heat-closed, making them less enticing for chewers. I tested Primo Pads in both an Impact Crate and in a normal wire crate, and even without the brand’s lockdown system, the fit is tight enough that most dogs won’t be able to pull it up and chew on it. The lockdown system is for use with wire crates and consists of reusable zip ties that secure the pad to the bottom of the crate. If your Primo Pad gets dirty, it can easily be wiped or hosed down, making it a good option for dogs who like to get dirty. Primo Pads are available for wire crates, Ruffland Kennels, Vari Kennels, Impact crates, East Coast kennels, Dakota 283 kennels, and in custom sizes. The main downside of Primo Pads is their chew-proof warranty—currently, the brand will only offer a single replacement pad if it’s chewed within 30 days of receipt.

The Most Comfortable Dog Bed for Chewers

The Orvis RecoveryZone ToughChew Couch Dog Bed is an option for dogs who aren’t extremely strong chewers. It’s a firm foam bed that offers significantly more support than other options on our list, and the tightly woven cover feels extremely sturdy. The assembly of the ToughChew Couch bed was simple and straightforward—the directions were well written, and the foam pieces are covered in nylon-like sleeves, so they were easy to position in the cover. The only downside of the assembly is that the zipper was somewhat difficult to close. Though the brand doesn’t claim that the ToughChew Couch is orthopedic, the two-layer foam in this bed is focused on taking pressure off your dog’s joints, helping them recover quickly, and keeping them at a comfortable temperature. This bed comes with a lifetime chew-proof warranty, but it gets three paws instead of four because some user reviews said that their very persistent pups were able to chew through the bed. If you have a small dog or a dog who is a moderate chewer, the ToughChew Couch could be a good option—just size up if your dog likes to spread out.

The Toughest Chew Proof Dog Bed with Padding

K9 Ballistics has a padded version of the Chew Proof Armored dog bed that adds in filling to the middle of the cot for joint support and comfort. This bed is made with the same aluminum frame and detachable legs as the non-padded version, but I docked it a star because the padded center is more enticing for dogs to chew. It could still be a solid choice for dogs who only tend to nibble on the corners of beds since the corners are made of aluminum. You’ll be able to take advantage of K9 Ballistics’ 120-day chew-proof warranty in case your dog decides to disassemble the padding.

Why Do Dogs Like Belly Rubs?

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Why do dogs like belly rubs? A combination of emotion and instinct.
Many dogs—like the one pictured here—enjoy belly rubs but pay attention to your dog’s body language to make sure she is having fun. Credit: LittleCityLifestylePhotography | Getty Images

You walk in the door after work and you’re greeted by your dog wildly wriggling and wagging, then flopping onto his back with his paws joyously waving in the air, tongue lolling out with a goofy smile on his face. Who could resist bending down to give that pup a belly a rub or two?

But have you ever thought about why your dog seems to like belly rubs so much? I know why I like to give them: the belly fur is generally the softest and silkiest, and caressing it simply feels wonderful. That begs the question: does my dog like it just as much?

It turns out the answer is yes…and no. It depends upon the dog, the situation, and who’s doing the rubbing.

The Science

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First, let’s talk about what we know, as opposed to what we think. Numerous research studies both here and abroad have shown that just a few minutes of petting can increase a dog’s oxytocin, a powerful endorphin linked to feelings of pleasure and happiness; at the same time, the level of cortisol—the hormone that triggers stress—decreases. (It won’t come as a surprise to most of you that the “petter” enjoys similar benefits!)

The same physiological mechanism applies to giving your dog a belly rub. Rubbing or stroking your dog’s belly instantly activates the scores of very sensitive nerves and sensory neurons, known as touch receptors, on her abdominal region. Not to go too Sandy Scientific on you, but these touch receptors travel along sensory nerves that connect to neurons in the spinal cord, then to the thalamus, and finally to the somatosensory cortex of the brain, which in turn triggers the release of oxytocin. All this happens in the flutter of an eyelash: the only thing we’re aware of is that our dog goes into a state of semi-bliss the moment we start rubbing her belly.

That being said, while science knows why dogs like being petted in general, there are no research studies on why dogs like belly rubs in particular. But for all intents and purposes, petting is petting, no matter where it’s done. It’s simply another way for dogs to bond with us, and we with them. Dr. Annette Louviere, DVM at Wisdom Panel, says that petting your dog, no matter where on the body, can be a form of communication between the two of you that acts as a bond. Dr. Stanley Coren, author of How to Speak Dog, concurs: “For some dogs, a belly rub is simply a variant of being petted. It is a form of social contact.”

Why Do Dogs Roll on Their Backs to Begin With?

Generally, there are two reasons why dogs roll on their backs: first is that they’re angling for affection and a belly rub. But don’t assume that a dog on his back automatically wants that: sometimes it’s a submissive gesture where the dog wants to appease you or another dog. Again, look at their body language: if the dog is ducking or leaning away, licking her lips, her ears are back, and she’s avoiding looking at you, those are sure signs that she doesn’t want to be touched. If you try to give a belly rub to a dog who is presenting her underside as a form of appeasement, she’ll probably become even more nervous or uneasy, and will do her best to get away.

On the other hand, if your dog’s body is loose and waggling, his mouth is open in what looks like a grin, his tail is relaxed and even thumping on the floor, you can almost bet the farm that he’s ready for a belly rub.

Do All Dogs Like Belly Rubs?

I’ve never had a dog that didn’t become positively delirious over getting a belly rub, but then, all my dogs have been Golden Retrievers, a breed that’s renowned for being pushovers for attention and affection. That being said, not every dog likes belly rubs. Remember that the belly is the most vulnerable spot on a dog’s body and some dogs may feel uncomfortable—or even threatened–when exposing their undersides.

Breed, genetics, and early life experiences can all govern whether or not a dog enjoys the intimacy of a belly rub. And even a dog that loves them won’t want them all the time or in every circumstance. (As much as you enjoy swimming, would you want to do it every day of the year, even when it’s 20 degrees outside?) Just like humans, every dog is different, with different likes, dislikes, and personality quirks.  It’s up to us as their caretakers to learn how to read their body language so we’ll know what’s pleasurable for them and what isn’t.

The Belly Rub Leg Kick

Chances are, you’ve seen this, or experienced it with your own dog. You’re giving him a nice, energetic belly rub, when suddenly one of his back legs starts kicking. What’s going on?

It’s called the scratch reflex, an instinctive, evolutionary response that allows an animal to get rid of bugs or irritants. Lore Haug, a veterinarian and animal behavior expert for Texas Veterinary Behavior Services, explains that dogs developed the scratch reflex as a way to defend against annoyances like invading bugs like fleas or ticks. The kicking is an attempt to dislodge the source of irritation, knock off some of the bugs, and relieve the itch.

There’s a collection of nerves located just under the skin that makes up the spot on a dog’s body that triggers the scratch reflex when he is rubbed or scratched: this is called the “sweet spot” or the “tickle spot.” Most often, this spot is somewhere on the belly or flank area, so when you rub your dog’s tummy and hit this spot, the nerves get activated and send a message to the hind leg to start kicking.

We don’t know for certain whether this reflex action is pleasant or unpleasant for the dog: like people who are ticklish, dogs can find tickles to be either enjoyable or infuriating. Watch your dog’s body language to see if he’s having as much fun kicking as you are when you’re watching him kick: if he pulls away or tries to turn over, he’s letting you know the fun is over.

So next time your dog rolls over on her back and gives you a big, silly smile, rub away!

Fishy Business: Selecting the Best Fish Oil for Dogs

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Fish oil for dogs can support their health.
Fish oil supplements for dogs are typically available in liquid form or as gel capsules. Credit: RHJ | Getty Images

Omega-3 fatty acids support cellular function, muscle activity, and more throughout the body. However, the body doesn’t produce omega-3s, so they must be obtained from food. Fish oil, which contains omega-3s in the form of eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), is a popular supplement to give dogs, but not just for overall health. It’s thought to benefit dogs with conditions ranging from osteoarthritis to heart disease, and there’s some good evidence for its effects:

*The latest guidelines from the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM), published in 2019, recommend omega-3 supplementation for dogs with current or past clinical signs of heart failure related to mitral valve disease, especially if they have decreased appetite, muscle loss or arrhythmia.

*A number of studies have indicated significant improvement of itchy skin and coat quality in dogs supplemented with fish oil.

*Omega-3 fatty acids may help to reduce production of inflammatory compounds, reducing oxidative stress to the kidneys and slowing the progression of chronic kidney disease. Diets containing omega-3s have been recommended for dogs with CKD.

*In a 90-day randomized double-blinded controlled study of pet dogs with lameness from osteoarthritis, dietary supplementation with fish oil significantly improved the dogs’ ability to walk and bear weight.

*A 2023 study found that fish oil supplementation enhanced learning ability in puppies.

Does that mean that all dogs should receive fish oil supplements? Not necessarily. Dogs in good health with great coats are probably doing fine without fish oil. Here’s what else to consider before adding fish oil to your dog’s daily routine.

Is Fish Oil Right for Your Dog?

While fish oils usually do not have significant side effects, some dogs are sensitive to fish oil, especially in high amounts. Dogs who respond to fish oil with vomiting or diarrhea may be in this category. Pregnant or nursing dogs may also not respond well to fish oil. To reduce the risk of gastrointestinal upset, start with a low dose and gradually increase it.

If your dog takes prescription, herbal, or over-the-counter medications or has a blood-clotting disorder, diabetes, or a history of pancreatitis, talk to your veterinarian first before adding fish oil to your dog’s diet. Some medications or herbs may interact with fish oil in negative ways.

For dogs with health or skin conditions that could benefit from omega-3s, don’t double the amount. Too much of anything, no matter how natural or healthy, can cause side effects.

Some foods are already fortified with omega-3 fatty acids. If the label doesn’t indicate a guaranteed amount, contact the manufacturer and ask about the percentage of fatty acids in the food. The answer can help you and your veterinarian determine whether it’s appropriate to supplement with additional omega-3 fatty acids.

The Best Fish Oil for Dogs

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Not all fish oils are created equal. The U. S. Food & Drug Administration does not regulate pet supplements such as fish oil. Consider these factors when deciding which one to purchase for your dog:

  • The label should specify the amounts of EPA and DHA.
  • The manufacturer should use third-party testing to evaluate purity and freshness and can provide a certificate of analysis on request.
  • The oil should be made from fish such as anchovies, cod, mackerel, pollock, sardines, and wild-caught salmon, which are low in heavy metals and other impurities.
  • The product should be formulated for pets so you know your dog isn’t receiving an excessive amount and that it doesn’t contain ingredients that could be harmful to pets.

As stated above, the best fish oil for dogs should contain the omega-3s DHA and EPA. Colorado State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital recommends choosing a product evaluated for purity and freshness via third-party testing. Some products are audited by the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC), meaning they must meet certain quality-control criteria. We like the following products:

Before giving fish oil to your dog, smell or taste the oil to make sure it isn’t rancid. You may think your dog won’t care—he may scarf up worse things than old fish oil—but he won’t see benefits from it and may experience one of the side effects you’re trying to prevent: inflammation.

When it comes to administering fish oil, some dogs will swallow a gel capsule whole while others may prefer to take their fish oil in liquid form, pumped onto their food from a dispenser or squeezed onto food from a punctured capsule.

Heat Exhaustion in Dogs

Providing your dog with shade can help avoid heat exhaustion.
Be sure your dog has access to shade when he’s outside for a long period. Credit: Giovanni Bortolani | Getty Images

The first signs of heat exhaustion in dogs are easy to miss, like the dog who normally plays fetch for at least 10 throws but slows down after five. He’s panting, but it isn’t the usual happy and excited pant you’re familiar with. It’s more intense and heavier than usual. If your dog is panting heavily, he needs to cool down.

Your dog’s tongue can be key to detecting increasing heat stress. If your dog is panting and his tongue looks abnormally long and wide, and/or his lips are pulled back to expose more of his gums and oral tissues, he is trying to maximize his evaporative cooling process through his mouth. His drool may look thick, and his mucous membranes may be bright red. All this adds up to a dog working hard to cool off.

Stumbling Into Heat Stroke

A dog moving into an emergency level of heat exhaustion, called heat stroke, may appear weak and even stumble. This dog needs immediate veterinary care. You may also notice:

  • Muscle tremors and weakness
  • Increased heavy panting
  • Increased thirst but nose/mouth dry
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Elevated pulse (check in the groin area)
  • Abnormal gum color
  • Increasing dehydration

Check for dehydration by gently pulling up a small amount of skin. The skin “tents up” when you squeeze it and doesn’t immediately slip right back into place. If your dog’s mouth is dry or his saliva is thick, flush his mouth with cool water and encourage him to drink.

Never Leave Your Dogs in the Car

We all know children and dogs can die if left in a hot car and, sadly, stories abound about people who still do this. Some vehicles now allow you to lock the car and leave it running, which may tempt you to leave your dogs in the car. Don’t do it.

Literally, as I write this article, I read about a heat-related dog tragedy at a dog event in the Northeast. The owner parked her car in the shade and left it running with the air conditioning on. She did checks every 30 to 40 minutes. On her last check, the car was still running but the AC had quit. Three dogs were dead, one was seizuring, and three were in critical condition.

In another incident earlier this year, dogs were left in an RV with air conditioning running and a temperature monitor in the RV. Sadly, both the AC and monitor malfunctioned, and the dogs died. Don’t leave your dogs unattended.

As the heat exhaustion worsens and the body temperature elevates, the dog’s gums change from bright red to pale. The dog begins hyperventilation. His blood pressure will drop, and he may become unconscious, collapse, or go into seizures. With high enough body temperatures (such as 107 degrees F), organ failure sets in. Put your dog in the car, blast the AC, and get him to a veterinarian immediately.

What to Do for Heat Stress in a Dog

If your dog is panting excessively or collapses, get him cool!  Putting him in a tub of cool water is ideal. If not, pour cool water or run a hose over him, targeting thin-haired areas like the “arm pits” and the groin area (just hosing off his back is inefficient, especially if he has a thick coat, because the water just rolls off the coat and doesn’t quickly get down to the skin).

If you can monitor temperatures, try to get him down to 104. Add fans once he is in your car and turn up the AC, letting it blow on him.

How Dogs Stay Cool

Dogs cool off through evaporative cooling, although they do sweat a bit through their foot pads. Evaporative cooling occurs via panting, so your dog must be well-hydrated to get the full benefit of the panting. Dogs also will shift blood flow to surface areas: vis vasodilation to help cool things off so you might notice your dog’s ears being very red for example.

Avoid Heat Stress

Packing water and cooling supplies can help prevent heat stroke in dogs.
Your dog loves outings like hikes as much as you do! Be sure you have water and cooling supplies in a backpack for your dog, too. Credit: Tommasolizzul | Getty Images

Clearly, prevention is the best way to minimize heat stress and avoid heat stroke. To do this:

  • Limit play and training during hot weather.
  • Stick to shaded, grassy areas if possible, including for rest.
  • Always have fresh, cool water available in the shade and add ice cubes.
  • If your dog is working, considering using cool treats, such as frozen-low sodium bouillon, doggy ice cream, or watermelon.
  • Provide a kiddie pool (be sure water is fresh and cool), splash pad, or misting water sprinkler.
  • Make your dog take a periodic break from playing.

If you are hiking, choose trails that are shaded and not too strenuous. Let your dog wade in a running creek. Caution: Avoid stagnant bodies of water as algae buildups can be toxic. Be sure you have drinking water for your dog (and you!) with you.

High-Risk Dogs

With dogs at high risk for heat stress include older dogs, overweight dogs, and brachycephalic dogs (the ones with short faces and muzzles), it is best to leave them safely at home. If not possible, someone should always be with them.

Some dog-sports competitors use dog cool coats to help protect the dog from the intense rays of the sun. These are coats that can be wet down and reflect the sun.

When I travel with my dogs in the summer, I leave my car open (minivan), with open weave shade cloths covering it, and fans on when I am parked. I park in shade if possible and orient my car to catch any breeze. I have extra fans and batteries. I stay with my dogs as much as possible.

Use drive-ups to get food and drinks instead of going into a restaurant. When purchasing gas, pull your car up so it is in shade.

So far, I have not had problems, but if it is truly hot, we stay home. Heat-related problems are serious. Even dogs who seem fine may show signs of organ damage a few days later. This is a health problem to avoid.

House-Training Is Simple, But Not Always Easy

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A young but house-trained puppy.
It’s been challenging to be as assiduous about watching this small-breed foster puppy as I need to be in order to whisk her outside every time she looks like she has to urinate. At least I can count on the first-thing-in-the-morning pee.

Have you ever visited a friend’s or relative’s house and, upon walking in the door, detected the unmistakable aroma of dog pee? No one wants this to happen to their home, but a failure to house-train or otherwise manage a dog can easily lead to this upsetting and unhealthy result.

There are lots of reasons that a house-training failure can occur. Perhaps the dog has a particularly small bladder or had a urinary tract infection at some point, causing them to need to urinate far more frequently than they were given the opportunity to do so outdoors. Perhaps the owner wasn’t able to let the dog outside as frequently as needed to support the house-training habit, or didn’t have the means or ability to manage the dog’s environment to increase the likelihood of house-training success.

I know some folks who, in their late 80s, lost their nearly 20-year-old Dachshund, and after a few months of extreme sadness, bought a Dachshund puppy; they had owned Dachshunds their entire lives, they didn’t want to be without one! But their declining mobility resulted in the puppy not getting taken outside as much as she needed to be, and their large-open plan home gave the puppy many opportunities to relieve herself in places her owners couldn’t detect. The couple’s adult children, nearly senior citizens themselves, will have to grapple with both the un-house-trained dog and her effects on the house at some point.

With this in mind, I am currently working hard to provide a small-breed puppy, a foster puppy from my local shelter, with a solid house-training foundation before finding her an adoptive home.

The most effective method to house-training a dog is not complex, but it can be difficult. Generally, you use a crate or pen to confine the dog or puppy into a small space for periods of sleeping or just when they can’t be actively supervised. Most pups instinctively avoid soiling their “bedrooms” or resting spot (unless they have no alternative). When the pup awakens or you are ready to let the pup out, you immediately take the pup outdoors and cue him or her to eliminate. It doesn’t matter what cue is used—“Go pee!” or “Hurry up!” are common cues—but being consistent in the presentation of the cue and rewarding the pup for eliminating on cue will speed his or her comprehension of the requested task.

After the pup pees and/or poops outside, they can be given a short period of freedom in the house, though they need to be highly and actively supervised during this period. You have to be alert for signs that they need to “go” again, and get them outside before they have any opportunity to eliminate in the house. If you’re not going to be able to watch the pup for any period of time, they need to be sequestered in either a crate or small pen (which they should feel reluctant to soil) or a larger pen or gated-off space where they are supplied with pee pads or a litterbox option. (The house-training process is explained in greater detail in “How to House Train a Puppy.”)

The challenge, however, is being attentive to your puppy every minute that they are loose in the house—and I am finding it challenging, indeed. Perhaps more so because this particular puppy is so tiny! Her bladder likely doesn’t hold more than a tablespoon or so of urine!

Maybe that’s garbage. Bladder size must be proportional to the dog; it just seems like most of the larger-breed puppies I’ve fostered over the years can “hold it” longer than this tiny puppy can. But maybe it’s also my attention span; I think I’ve gotten more distractible as I’ve aged! I have to admit that I’m not watching the puppy as zealously as I should be for maximum effectiveness; she’s had at least one “accident” a day in the house when I got caught up in a conversation or was making dinner, for example, and took my eyes off her for a few minutes—a few minutes after an over-long period of playing loose in the house, that is.

While I definitely work on house-training with every untrained puppy or dog whom I foster, I don’t generally take responsibility for having this accomplished before sending a dog or pup off to their newly adopted family. It’s helpful if I have started the process, and know something about the dog’s habits—how often and when they generally go poop, for example—so I can offer “technical support” and advice if the new owners have trouble. But because I have been finding the frequency of this puppy’s urination to be higher than I seem to be capable of managing, I am worried that other people might have trouble with house-training her, too, and I don’t want her to get returned due to unreliable house-training.

Things I have done that have helped:

  • Picked up all doormats in and outside the house (she was drawn to peeing on these, even the outside ones! She preferred peeing on the outside doormats over peeing on the front lawn or anywhere else outside, until I removed them).
  • Removed the rug from my living room (the only carpet in my whole house).
  • Placed a puppy pen across both ends of my kitchen, so she can’t leave the room and pee out of my sight. (When we’re in the same room, I can and do notice when she’s starts walking around and looking like she has to “go.”)
  • Put a couple treats in the pocket of everything I wear, so I am ALWAYS ready to reward and celebrate each and every outdoor elimination.

What are your favorite house-training tips? Info from small dog owners particularly wanted!!

Pet Insurance vs. Wellness Plans

Pet insurance and wellness plans can provide some needed help when your dog is sick.
Pet insurance and wellness plans cover different circumstances, but both are designed to help ease the financial burden of caring for your dog. Credit: Ivan-balvan | Getty Images

We’re always looking for ways to save money and with rising veterinary costs, saving money on your dog’s healthcare has never been more important. Pet insurance and dog wellness plans are growing in popularity as ways to lessen the sting of veterinary bills.

Pet insurance and dog wellness plans are not the same thing. Let’s look at the way these two cost-saving measures differ.

Pet Insurance

Pet insurance is for the unexpected medical events in your dog’s life. Accidents and illnesses can happen when you least expect them. If your dog ends up in the emergency room or needs specialized care, the cost of that care can quickly lead to a case of sticker shock.

Most pet insurance carriers require that you pay the veterinary hospital directly for services, then submit a claim to be reimbursed. Most veterinary hospitals require payment in full at the time services are rendered.

Emergency and specialty hospitals typically require a deposit of 50-75% of the high end of the cost estimate before services can be rendered. Some emergency hospitals require payment of an emergency consent fee at the time your dog is triaged (assessed by a veterinary technician). This fee includes the emergency exam and what may be necessary to stabilize your dog, such as placing an intravenous catheter, obtaining point-of-care diagnostics, and administering pain medication.

The amount of the emergency consent fee will depend on the severity of your dog’s illness. The consent fee only covers examining and stabilizing your dog. It does not include laboratory diagnostics—such as full blood work, urinalysis, and radiographs—or treating your dog’s illness. The total cost of your dog’s emergency veterinary care will inevitably be more than the emergency consent fee.

Since most pet insurance carriers work on a reimbursement model. That means you still need a way to pay for veterinary services upfront. Many veterinary hospitals no longer offer payment plans (also known as payment agreements). Acceptable methods of payment may include cash, major credit and debit cards, CARE Credit, and ScratchPay. Acceptance of personal checks is becoming increasingly rare due to the potential for fraud.

Wellness Plans

Wellness plans are for the preventative care necessary to keep your dog healthy. Preventative care includes vaccines, routine screening tests, and heartworm and flea/tick preventatives. Some wellness plans include routine dental cleanings.

There are several different types of wellness plans available. Some pet insurance carriers offer a wellness plan option. This type of wellness plan will reimburse you for certain preventative care services up to a set dollar amount. If the cost of preventative care exceeds the reimbursement amount, then you are responsible for the balance.

You can also purchase a wellness plan from a third-party vendor without pet insurance. These wellness plans work similarly to the wellness plans that are bundled with pet insurance.

Some veterinary hospitals offer wellness plans that can only be used at their hospital or network of hospitals. These wellness plans offer a package of preventative services that you pay for in monthly installments over the course of one year. This allows you to budget a set dollar amount each month towards your dog’s preventative care instead of paying for their annual wellness visit all at once.

Other veterinary hospitals may offer wellness plans that include an unlimited number of sick and recheck exams. You will not be charged for sick and recheck exams but you will be expected to pay for any other services provided during those visits. Be sure to look at the fine print—many of these plans do not include emergency, last minute fit-in, and specialty service exams.

Pet insurance can help alleviate financial concerns when your dog becomes ill. Wellness plans can help you budget for keeping your dog healthy. See our articles on pet insurance and wellness plans for more details about shopping for these benefits.

What Happened to Payment Plans?

There was a time when many veterinary hospitals offered payment plans (also known as payment agreements) for clients who could not pay for veterinary services in full at the time services were rendered. This would allow a client to pay for services already provided in monthly installments until the bill was satisfied.

While many people would fulfill the agreement and continue payments until the bill was satisfied, some people did not. Some people would make one or two payments and then make no further attempt to satisfy their bill. Others would sign the agreement and make no payments at all.

Not paying for veterinary services means more than just not paying your veterinarian. The cost of veterinary services includes the overhead of running a hospital. Overhead includes employee salaries and benefits, utilities, rent, laboratory services, medical supplies, and maintaining medical equipment.

The impact of one person not paying their bill may be negligible, but 100 people reneging on their agreement to pay a balance of $500 or more quickly adds up. This negatively impacts a hospital’s bottom line and impairs their ability to provide services for the pets that need them. And a closed hospital is of no help to anyone.

How to Re-Introduce Dogs After a Fight

Reintroducing dogs after a fight has a good prognosis if the fight was mild.
Re-introducing dogs after a fight requires careful management but can often be done successfully. Credit: anakeseenadee | Getty Images

Fights amongst dogs living in the same home are common and can be a very scary experience for dog guardians and their dogs. Dog fights can vary in severity from relatively mild, consisting mostly of noise (barking and growling) and minimal, if any, injuries, through to severe, resulting in serious injuries and even death.

 

As a Certified Applied Animal Behaviourist (CAAB), I’ve helped many pet parents re-introduce dogs after a fight. The good news is that, in most cases, the successful re-introduction of the dogs is possible. That said, in some cases reintroduction is either not possible, for safety and welfare reasons, or is unsuccessful in which case rehoming or behavioural euthanasia is the kindest option.

Firstly, let’s try to understand why dogs fight in the first place.

Why Do Dogs Fight?

It’s important to understand that aggression is a normal part of the canine behavioral repertoire and serves an important function in terms of canine communication. However, its expression is highly undesirable. Aggression is influenced by the environment, biology, and prior learning and, consequently, its expression varies significantly among individuals[1].

There are several reasons why dogs living in the same home might fight. One of the most common reasons is competition for access to high value resources (e.g. food, treats, toys, beds, attention, etc). When two dogs both value the same resource highly, they are more likely to compete to gain access to it. Over-excitement and proximity in confined spaces have also been identified as risk factors[2].

I have personally observed that two dogs closely matched in age and size are more likely to compete for resources compared to two dogs of different ages and sizes. Two female dogs living in the same home are more likely to fight compared to a male/male or male/female combination[2], as are littermates; known as littermate syndrome [2]. The onset of social maturity is another contributing factor often triggering fighting between dogs living in the same home. Similarly, I have also witnessed that a dog reaching old age can result in the onset of dog fights as older dogs are often less adept at reading the other dog’s body language due to vision loss and cognitive decline.

Research shows that the risk of dog fights increases with age, probably due to experience and the increased likelihood older dogs experience pain due to common health conditions like osteoarthritis[3]. Other risk factors include increasing age at acquisition and number of dogs in the household[1].

How to Stop Dogs from Fighting in the Same Household

The first step to stop dogs from fighting is to physically separate them to prevent any further fighting. This is incredibly important because, generally, the higher the frequency and intensity of the fights, the harder it is to repair the relationship and the greater the risk of injury.

Separation also prevents the aggressor from exhibiting the problem behaviour and avoids further injuries and further fear-provoking interactions with the victim dog2. Crates, muzzles, baby gates, doors, and tethered leads can be very helpful in this situation. However, it’s best to seek expert advice tailored to your individual dogs, situation, and circumstances.

Ensure the dogs are thoroughly examined by a vet to identify and treat any health issues that may have contributed to the aggression.

Next, write down all known triggers for the fighting such as specific resources, attention, over-excitement etc., so the triggers can be removed or avoided. Stopping dogs from fighting in the same home is possible but it takes time, commitment, good management, and behaviour modification training to work to help them to get along.

How to Get Dogs to Get Along

Helping dogs living in the same home to get along after a fight typically involves separating them, both physically and visually, initially and then gradually reintroducing the dogs during short training sessions using desensitization and counter-conditioning. This process of gradual exposure paired with high value treats starts to build a positive association between the dogs over time, helping to repair their relationship. Outside of the training sessions, the dogs must be safely separated.

Triggers for fights, such as high value resources, must be identified and either removed from the environment entirely or provided in a way as to eliminate competition for access.

Research has identified that aggression between dogs living in the same home is less likely to improve when triggers for aggression between the dogs are unpredictable and when the aggressing dog is younger than the victim dog; when people are injured in the process of breaking up dog fights; and when fights occur more frequently than once per week[4].

Do Dogs Hold Grudges?

Whilst it’s difficult to know for sure whether dogs are capable of holding grudges, dogs certainly remember negative or traumatic experiences associated with dog fights, such as painful injuries or needing emergency vet treatment. However, every dog is different and some dogs cope better in the aftermath of a dog fight than others. In my experience as a CAAB, I have seen some dogs bounce back really quickly, while others have been severely impacted and continue to show fearful and anxious behaviour in response to the presence of the aggressor dog for weeks, even months, post-fight.

What’s the Prognosis After a Dog Fight?

For most dogs, the prognosis after a dog fight is generally good, especially if fights are few and far between and the injuries inflicted have been relatively minor. As long as dog guardians are able to commit to safely separate, appropriately manage, and gradually desensitise and counter-condition their dogs appropriately, many will successfully reintroduce their dogs following a dog fight with time and consistency.

If, however, the dogs have had many fights, have caused significant injuries, or cannot be appropriately managed to prevent further incidents, then it’s likely these dogs cannot continue to live together safely. Rehoming or behavioural euthanasia must be considered as the next step in these cases.

If your dogs have been involved in a dog fight it’s important to seek help from a qualified and reputable professional who will thoroughly assess your dogs, the environment, and your circumstances to determine the best path forward.


[1] Matos, R. E., Jakuba, T., Mino, I., Fejsakova, M., Demeova, A., & Kottferova, J. (2015). Characteristics and risk factors of dog aggression in the Slovak RepublicVeterinární medicína60(8).

[2] McGreevy, P. D., & Masters, A. M. (2008). Risk factors for separation-related distress and feed-related aggression in dogs: Additional findings from a survey of Australian dog ownersApplied Animal Behaviour Science109(2-4), 320-328.

[3] Casey, R. A., Loftus, B., Bolster, C., Richards, G. J., & Blackwell, E. J. (2013). Inter‐dog aggression in a UK owner survey: prevalence, co‐occurrence in different contexts and risk factorsVeterinary Record172(5), 127-127.

[4] Feltes, E. S., Stull, J. W., Herron, M. E., & Haug, L. I. (2020). Characteristics of intrahousehold interdog aggression and dog and pair factors associated with a poor outcomeJournal of the American Veterinary Medical Association256(3), 349-361.

Hemorrhagic Gastroenteritis (HGE) in Dogs

Regular veterinary exams are important for identifying HGE in dogs early.
Prompt treatment can make a significant difference for dogs with HGE/AHDS. Credit: tdub303 | Getty Images

The symptoms of hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (HGE) begin like any other gastrointestinal illness—soft brown stool, not eating, and perhaps some vomiting. But over a 24-hour period, that soft stool will progress to a watery, bloody, and explosive diarrhea. Dogs with HGE feel nauseous and may not drink enough water to keep up with the fluid loss associated with their diarrhea. This leads to dehydration that may become severe and life-threatening.

Most dogs with HGE will need to be hospitalized and treated with aggressive intravenous fluid therapy to resolve their dehydration. Antiemetic medications—such as Cerenia and ondansetron—are administered to alleviate the nausea associated with HGE. Probiotics to promote healthy gut flora and fiber to provide nutrition to cells lining the colon are started.

Some dogs with HGE have such profound losses of protein and fluid from their diarrhea that they require one or more transfusions of blood products. Blood products used to treat HGE include albumin (a protein found in blood) and fresh frozen plasma (the fluid portion of blood).

Eating a high quality, easily digestible diet provides nutrition to the cells that line the gastrointestinal tract and helps them heal. But dogs with HGE are unlikely to begin eating right away during the acute part of their illness. Your veterinarian may recommend placing a nasogastric tube to deliver a liquid recovery diet to your dog until he starts eating on his own.

A nasogastric tube is a thin feeding tube that is inserted into one of your dog’s nostrils. The tube passes down the back of his throat, through the esophagus, and into the stomach. The nasogastric tube does not interfere with your dog’s ability to eat or swallow. Most dogs do not seem to mind having a nasogastric tube in place.

Dogs with HGE require close monitoring of their electrolytes, blood pressure, hydration status, and vital signs. This is best accomplished in the intensive care unit (ICU) of a 24/7 emergency and specialty hospital. A veterinary technician that specializes in caring for ICU patients will be dedicated to monitoring your dog’s vital signs and providing treatments to your dog. A board-certified veterinary criticalist or an emergency veterinarian trained to care for critical patients will help your dog recover from HGE.

Dogs that are hospitalized for treatment of HGE spend an average of two to three days in the hospital. They are discharged from the hospital once they are eating, no longer vomiting, and have returned to having soft or semi-formed stool.

What Causes HGE in Dogs

HGE is caused by an overgrowth of a bacteria called Clostridium perfringens. Clostridium perfringens is a part of the normal gut flora of the dog’s colon. The normal gut flora has a system of checks and balances that keeps any one species of bacteria from growing out of control.

It is not currently known why this system of checks and balances suddenly allows Clostridium perfringens to begin proliferating uncontrollably. There is speculation that dietary indiscretion (such as eating a toy or getting into the garbage), a change in diet without an appropriate transition period, intestinal parasites, food poisoning, or stress may be contributing factors.

There are five types of Clostridium perfringens. These include types A, B, C, D, and E. Clostridium perfringens type A produces a toxin called NetF. The NetF toxin creates pores, or openings, in cells that line the inside of the colon. This causes the cells to swell with fluid and burst like a balloon, destroying the cells.

The cells that line the inside of the colon act like a permeable barrier. This permeable barrier allows a controlled amount of fluid and electrolytes to move back and forth between the lumen of the colon and the blood vessels in the colon wall. The NetF toxin damages that permeable barrier, allowing some blood and massive amounts of fluid to enter the colon lumen. The result is a profuse watery, bloody diarrhea.

As the disease progresses, the population of Clostridium perfringens type A migrates from the colon to the small intestine. The NetF toxin produced by this bacterial species damages the mucosal lining of the small intestine. This worsens the diarrhea that is produced by the large intestine.

The damage done by the NetF toxin is confined to the small and large intestines. The NetF toxin does not affect the stomach. The term gastroenteritis refers to inflammation of the stomach and the small and large intestines. Since HGE does not affect the stomach, this condition was recently renamed acute hemorrhagic diarrhea syndrome (AHDS). This reflects the damage that occurs to just the intestines rather than the entire gastrointestinal system.

Diagnosis

There is no specific test for AHDS. Diagnosis is based on the acute onset of watery, bloody diarrhea, severe dehydration, and the exclusion of other causes of your dog’s symptoms. Your dog may be suspected of having AHDS if he meets the following criteria:

  • One or more episodes of vomiting that start about 10-12 hours before the onset of diarrhea
  • Sudden onset of watery, bloody diarrhea that looks like straight blood. Sometimes this can look like raspberry jam if there is mucus mixed in with the diarrhea.
  • Young age (median age is 5 years)
  • Small breed dog (median weight is 25 pounds)
  • A packed cell volume (PCV) of 57% or greater. This is a blood test that examines the ratio of red blood cells to plasma (also known as the fluid component of blood).
  • Relatively low total protein level in the blood

Your veterinarian may recommend additional diagnostic tests to rule out other causes of bloody diarrhea. These tests may include a complete blood count (CBC) and chemistry panel, a coagulation panel, abdominal radiographs (x-rays), and abdominal ultrasound. If your dog is not vaccinated for parvovirus or is a puppy in the middle of his parvovirus vaccination series, your veterinarian may recommend testing your dog for parvovirus.

Prognosis

Most dogs that receive timely and appropriate intervention for AHDS will make a complete recovery. However, serious complications can occur if appropriate treatment for AHDS is not started early in the disease process.

Dogs with AHDS may continue to have soft stool for 7-10 days following resolution of diarrhea. Their stool quality should improve a little each day during their recovery period.

Some dogs will develop chronic diarrhea following their recovery from AHDS. Diarrhea may be ongoing or intermittent. It may resolve with a change in diet or addition of a probiotic. Some cases may require treatment with medication to resolve the diarrhea.

Antibiotics—Yes or No?

You may have noticed something missing from the discussion of treating AHDS—antibiotics. At one time, antibiotics such as metronidazole and ampicillin or amoxicillin were routinely administered to dogs suspected of having AHDS. It has since been discovered that using antibiotics to treat AHDS may do more harm than good.

Antibiotics can have a negative impact on the normal bacterial flora of the small and large intestine. Antibiotics will promote the growth of some bacterial species while inhibiting the growth of others. Simplistically, this could be looked at as the inhibition of good bacteria and the growth of bad bacteria. But in reality, it is much more complex than this.

AHDS is caused by the overgrowth of Clostridium perfringens—one of many bacterial species in the gut. While antibiotics will decrease the population of Clostridium perfringens, they will also cause the other bacterial species in the gut flora to become unbalanced. This may worsen the already altered permeability of the intestines. Healing of the intestines is delayed and chronic diarrhea can develop even after recovery from AHDS.

Probiotics and fiber are now part of the treatment for AHDS. Probiotics can help restore the correct bacterial balance in the gut flora. Fiber provides nutrition to the cells that line the colon and helps these cells heal.

There are circumstances in which the use of antibiotics in treating AHDS is warranted. Dogs that have developed sepsis (a blood infection that causes multi-organ failure), have an abnormally low white blood cell count, or that are not responding to the typical treatment protocol for AHDS may need one or more antibiotics added to their treatment plan. But most dogs with uncomplicated AHDS do not require antibiotics to recover from their illness.

Human-Grade Dog Food Choices

Human grade dog food is not necessarily the same as quality dog food.
The desire to feed human-grade dog food is understandable, but there are downsides, such as that many may have a short shelf life. Credit: Yana Tikhonova | Getty Images

In recent years, there has been a significant shift in the pet-food industry, with owners prioritizing the health of their pets by focusing on improved nutrition. Of the emerging trends, human-grade dog food has grown considerably in popularity among pet owners. But what exactly does “human grade” mean in the context of dog food and what sets it apart from conventional foods?

The term “human grade” refers to pet food that is made both with ingredients and in facilities that meet the same standards as those used for products intended for human consumption. This means that all the ingredients used for human-grade dog food are sourced from suppliers that provide food primarily for human consumption.

Human-Made Dog Food Brands

Human-grade dog food brands typically prioritize premium-quality ingredients that often include real meat, whole grains, fruits, and vegetables. Unlike conventional pet food, which may be produced in facilities with lower-quality control standards, human-grade dog food is manufactured in facilities that adhere to the strict regulations and safety standards established for producing human food.

When looking at foods that have human-grade claims, it can sometimes be tricky to understand the label. A food is only considered human grade if all the ingredients in the formula are of human-grade quality and the food is also manufactured in a facility that produces human food. Many brands will utilize specific human-grade ingredients to add the “human grade” claim to their packaging but use conventional ingredients and manufacturing practices for the rest of the food. If this is done, you will see the specific human-grade ingredients called out, such as “made with human-grade beef,” but the food itself is not considered human grade.

The Best Human-Grade Dog Food

The best human-grade dog food brands make diets that are complete and balanced formulations that meet American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) requirements of nutritional adequacy for your dog’s intended life stage. Many human-grade dog foods are made with limited, whole, ingredients, which may make them a good choice for dogs suffering from known food allergies and sensitivities. There are many different forms of human-grade dog food on the market to choose from, including fresh, gently cooked, air dried, and freeze dried.

Despite the benefits, there are a few downsides to human-grade foods. Human-grade dog food often comes with a higher price tag compared to conventional pet food. The use of high-quality ingredients and human-grade manufacturing facilities drives up production costs, resulting in a higher retail price for consumers. Human-grade dog food also typically has a shorter shelf life compared to conventional pet foods. Many human-grade formulas lack preservatives and additives, meaning the food may spoil more quickly once opened, or may require specialized storage and handling to maintain its freshness and nutritional integrity.

While these downsides are worth consideration, many pet owners find that the benefits of human-grade dog food outweigh the potential drawbacks. Choosing human-grade dog food provides pet owners with assurance that they are feeding their companions a nutritious diet made with the same care and quality as their own food.

Do You Know How To Play With Your Dog?

Getting down to their level is a great way to play with your dog.
Caption: Relaxed, low-arousal play with your dog can be a great way to build connection, confidence, and trust. Credit: Kathy Callahan

Do you know how to truly play with your dog?

It sounds like a silly question, I know. But I’m dead serious, because a lot of caring dog owners actually don’t. Sure, they play fetch or tug, but that’s not what I’m talking about. What I love to encourage in a human-dog team is a less formal, goofier play connection—one that’s less top-down, less structured. I want to see a human on the living room floor with her dog, trading off gentle hip checks and soft head butts.

Why is this kind of play so important? What magic does this interaction have that fetch and tug don’t? For me, the answer is that our dogs spend most of their days having to work pretty hard just to navigate Planet Human. Imagine the relief as you signal to your dog that, for a few minutes, the two of you can just hang together, goofing around as pals.

Sometimes, I walk into a client’s home and see a dog who doesn’t quite know what’s up. She hangs back and hesitates. My strong impression is that she’s not sure what to make of where she’s landed or of these people she’s wound up with. That’s when I want to see if bringing some real play into their relationship might shift the dynamic, building confidence and connection.

Dogs Loosen Up, Reveal Another Side with True Play

A while back, I had a Zoom consult with a woman who was baffled by her rescue dog. They’d been together for months, but something felt off. She reported that the dog seemed “fine,” but just kind of sat around and stared at her a lot. Half a dozen theories were bouncing around in my brain when she mentioned that her dog sitter had little kids. I was bracing for a scary story about a bite when she added, “… and he just loved playing with them! I’ve never seen him act that way. He looked so happy.”

Ah ha! I asked her how she tended to act and move around the house:

  • Do you work at your laptop a lot?
  • Are you pretty purposeful and focused about the way you move around the home?
  • Do you then come to check in on the dog and stand staring at him and wondering why he’s not acting more like a dog? A laugh, and a yes.
  • Finally, is your overall vibe just kind of…serious? Big, honest

Fantastic! We’ve found a likely source of the vague sense of disconnect: This dog doesn’t know his owner can be fun. His human’s body language is not telegraphing a happy, joyful invitation. When the dog sitter’s little kids came in with their relaxed, naturally playful body language, the dog understood it immediately and responded in kind with darling, goofy interactions that the owner had never seen before.

The trick was to help this serious, adult woman—with big responsibilities and stress, like so many dog owners—figure out how to tap into her ability to let go and really invite her dog to play with her.

Mimic Dog Play

Sometimes playing with your dog involves getting to their level.
Don’t be afraid to get on the floor and play with your dog! Credit: Kathy Callahan

“Just mimic the way two dogs lazily engage with each other on the TV room floor after a long day,” I tell people. Their blank stares remind me yet again that I really need to learn to rephrase that because not everyone has spent the past 30 years living with dogs draped on every couch. But our family has and I’m sure that’s why we all instinctively imitate that gentle two-way push-wrestle with our dogs.

Here’s what it looks like:

  • We’re on their level. We’re not looming from above. We’re likely on all fours or lying around on the floor or the couch.
  • Our body language is inviting. We are suggesting play to our dogs with unthreatening, canine-style cocked heads, dipped shoulders, and play bows. We flirt!
  • We take turns. We invite with, say, a gentle head butt. Then we pull back and wait. If there’s no response, we let it go. But likely there’s a head butt back, and maybe a twist and a lap flop. We respond with a roll away on the floor which entices the dog to follow and maybe nudge our neck so we lift our face. The point is, it’s give and take. Both the human and the dog are choosing to engage, over and over.
  • We pause. Great dog-dog play is filled with polite pauses that allow everyone to regroup and then deliberately re-engage. This is critical: After we nudge, we pull back and wait for a response.
  • There are no cues or “commands.” This should feel like mutual, free play. Cues would turn this into a different kind of interaction.

As simple as this description may sound, it can be incredibly difficult for humans! Just the other day a guy was telling me how he was sad that his dog wouldn’t play with him. I asked him to show me what he was doing to kick things off and he demonstrated outstretched hands reaching toward the dog as he made exaggerated monster steps with an “I’m gonna get you” voice. While that may be huge fun for his little human nephew, that doesn’t signal trustworthy play to a canine. I’m not at all surprised that his dog slinks away and doesn’t engage. What he does is too front-facing, too handsy, too big, too unrelenting. In pursuing connection, he’s actually pushing his dog away.

Low-Arousal Play as Therapy Tool

Some lucky readers may have already stumbled on the brilliant canine play expert Amy Cook—CBDC and PhD—who developed the Play Way system. (See “The Play Way for Shy and Fearful Dogs,” WDJ May 2020.) Cook has taken the examination of dog-human play beyond building cross-species connection and into using what she calls “social play” as the most reliable indicator of a dog’s emotional state. Used skillfully, it then becomes a wonderful therapy tool.

Trainers used to counsel that a dog was feeling okay if he was able to eat. But that’s not quite true, as we all know dogs who’ll continue to gobble up treats while nervously scanning for threats. Similarly, a ball-obsessed dog may still play a high-arousal game of fetch even though concerned about the strangers or noises nearby. It’s simply too good to resist!

That brings us to the beauty of the low-arousal play we’re talking about in this article. Cook encourages owners of shy/scared dogs to build up their skill at this chill type of engagement—the kind that’s fun but not SO fun that the dog will play no matter what. This way, they’ll be able to feel certain that as long as their dog is responding to their little game of nudges and hip checks, he’s feeling just fine (“under threshold”). In contrast, if he’s not engaging, that’s key information! What has him stressed/distracted/worried—and how can we help?

But Won’t This Teach the Wrong Things?

Part of the reason many folks don’t play in this spontaneous, give-and-take way with their dogs is that they’re worried it’ll teach the wrong things. They’ve absorbed from decades-old dog training culture that we humans should be in charge at all times.

If you ask me, that belief is a bummer and it robs both the human and their dog of an easy-to-reach daily joy.

Of course, I don’t ever recommend freewheeling high-arousal play that could end in anyone feeling scared or getting hurt! When play is high-arousal then indeed it is important to structure it with rules and cues to keep everybody safe—i.e. the game doesn’t start until the dog sits, the game ends when the toy’s put away, etc.

But we’re talking here about a quieter, calmer version of play. And far from being threatening, there’s something beautiful about your dog having the Planet Dog freedom to choose, and to playfully nudge his friend—you!—to engage.

Check out Amy Cook’s Play Way website for added nuance on exactly how to strengthen your play game.

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