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How Much Sleep Does Your Dog Need?

By
Dan Muse
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0
Huw many hours a dog sleeps is determined by factors like age, size, and breed.
For many people, a sleeping dog is a happy, content dog—especially if he’s a puppy or high-energy dog. Credit: Kohei Hara | Getty Images

Few things in life are as rewarding as the sight of your dog sleeping—seeing him curled up in a sunbeam or sprawled contentedly across the floor brings a sense of peace. And if you have a puppy or highly active dog, you might even feel a sense of accomplishment (or relief!).

However, when you get past that feeling of satisfaction, do you wonder how many hours a day do dogs sleep? The answer, like most things involving your pets, isn’t a one-size-fits-all one. A dog’s sleep requirements are influenced by their age, breed, activity level, and individual makeup.

Hours of Dog Sleep By Age

Puppies and power naps:  Puppies are boundless energy one minute, then a cuddly heap the next. Because their bodies and brains are constantly developing, they need a lot rest to fuel their growth. Little is known about how long puppies under 4 months of age sleep, according to a study in Animals. The study found that once puppies are 4 months old they slept more during the day and less at night than 12-month-old puppies. Puppies do tend to alternate between bursts of high energy and short naps as they explore and process the world around them. If you’re having trouble getting your pup to sleep, trainer Kathy Callahan has excellent ideas.

Adult dogs sleep more like a person: As your dog matures, their sleep needs gradually decrease. According to a 2020 study from “Current Opinion in Behavioral Sciences,” adult dogs, typically sleep between 7.7 and 16 hours a day for an average of 10.1 hours per day.

Senior dogs sleep like a pup: As dogs enter their golden years, their sleep needs often increase again. This increase can be attributed to several factors, including decreased physical activity levels, changes in cognitive function, and potential health issues that may cause fatigue and pain when sleeping.

A dog’s activity level can also influence sleep needs. Working dogs like Border Collies or Australian Shepherds bred for specific tasks like herding tend to sleep less than their more relaxed counterparts. These active workers expend a lot of energy throughout the day and may require only closer to 10 to 12 hours of sleep, according to Tractive, a company that produces sleep trackers for dogs and cats. And dogs can be disturbed when they sleep by nightmares, twitching, and incontinence, just as people are.

10 Signs Your Dog Needs More Sleep

While dogs sleep a lot, a sudden change in habits can signal exhaustion. Watch for these 10 signs based on suggestions from WitsEnd, a physiotherapy website for dogs:

  1. Like overtired toddlers, exhausted pups may act hyperactive.
  2. Tired dogs, like tired people, get irritable and lose self-control.
  3. Overexertion can lead to joint or heart problems in overtired dogs.
  4. Is your dog ignoring walks, toys or food? They might be sleep-deprived.
  5. Yawning is a common sign of tiredness but can also indicate stress.
  6. Confusion or forgotten commands could be due to exhaustion.
  7. An unusually lazy dog is likely in need of a rest.
  8. Frantic bursts of energy (aka, zoomies) in a normally calm dog can be a sign of overtiredness.
  9. Easily distracted dogs during training might be too tired to focus.
  10. Excessive panting or licking can indicate stress or fatigue, especially after activity.

If you notice these signs, allow your dog plenty of rest. And, of course, consult your veterinarian if the signs persist.

Nobody’s Perfect! Least of All Me!

By
Nancy Kerns
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11
Two of Nancy Kern's dogs against a mountain top backdrop.
On our first day, we took the dogs for a short off-leash hike from one lake to another.

I strive to be a good dog—I mean, a good dog owner. I leash my dogs when leashes are required by law or by the convention of good manners, I always pick up my dogs’ poop in public, and I strive to not let my dogs inconvenience others in any way, by barking, jumping, or peeing on stuff that shouldn’t be peed on.

 

But recently, I was stuck between being a responsible dog owner and being responsible for my dogs’ well being, and I broke a leash law in order to protect my dogs. And I got yelled at, a couple of times, and as a good dog, I still feel terrible about it—but I would make the same choice again if I had to (but I hope to never have to).

Last week, there was (once again!) a wildfire threatening my town, and indeed, my neighborhood. We evacuated on the first night, even though the evacuation level for our zone was at “warning,” because it was “mandatory” in the zone immediately next to us (and the last time we had a fire nearby, our neighborhood was ordered to evacuate at 11 pm!). The next morning, with the order still at “warning,” we went home and packed up for a planned camping trip out of town; what was unplanned, though, was the fact that we had to bring my two dogs with us.

My usual dog sitters are my sister and my friend Leonora. My sister’s neighborhood was under a mandatory evacuation, and she had bugged out to another town with her three dogs. Leonora lives so close to my house that saddling her with my dogs would not have been fair had the fire grown and she had to evacuate. And since we were camping at a dog-friendly KOA campground, I decided it would be best to just take them with us on an “evacu-vacation,” even though we were also experiencing quite a heat wave and having the dogs with us would strictly limit what we could do on our trip.

We drove to a small mountain town where we were going to meet friends who run in an annual July 4th footrace that raises money for local charities; my husband and grandson were registered to run as well. I was registered for the walking version, but, as dogs were not allowed in the scrum, I planned to watch from the sidelines and take pictures.

On our first day in town, we got camp set up and picked up our race-day shirts. Then we drove to a National Forest where we took a short hike from one lake to another. Dogs are permitted to be off-leash on the trails, and I allowed my dogs to walk with us mostly off-leash, though I carried their leashes in my hand and occasionally called them to sit on the side of the trail to let other people pass by, especially if anyone on the trail looked apprehensive about dogs. A number of people complimented me on how friendly and well behaved my dogs were, and I never felt like we negatively impacted any other trail users.

Dog's aren't allowed in foot race areas, but some may break the rules.
The next morning, I waited with the dogs in the shade for my husband and grandson to finish a fun run that raises funds for local charities.

The next morning, I just watched the start of the fun run and chatted with a lovely couple who stopped to admire my dogs while we waited at the finish. I did see a few dogs on leash with their owners in the field of runners—folks who were breaking the official rules—but the race was so short and the time of day so early, I didn’t feel like the dogs were endangered, and none of them looked like a threat to other runners or walkers. Still, I didn’t want to be a rule breaker, and my dogs and I were content to watch the event.

We spent the middle part of the day at a local lake, where dogs are welcome to swim and run off-leash.

Nancy's dogs swimming in a mountain top lake during a evacuation/vacation.
We spent the afternoon swimming at a small lake where dogs were allowed to be off leash.

 

In the evening, I took my leashed dogs to a restored wetland park with magnificent views of Mt. Shasta, and we walked on the raised boardwalks to view the sunset.

Two dog's enjoying a meadowland hike.
In the evening, I took the dogs for a leisurely walk on leash to a restored wetland park, where we enjoyed watching the setting sun and grand views of Mt. Shasta.

The next morning in the campground, I scowled at a gentleman who was walking with a cup of coffee in either hand while his large dog walked ahead of him off-leash—but I scowled only because I was walking my dogs to the campground’s “dog potty yard” on-leash, and his dog started advancing on my two, growling. I said to the loose dog, “HEY!” and the guy finally noticed and called his dog back.

All of this is supposed to establish me as a mostly good dog—a responsible dog owner—even though what came next is an example of the opposite.

On the last day of our evacu-vacation we decided to take one more hike before driving home. We selected a trail that followed the path of a small river and took in three separate scenic waterfalls. The weather was still terribly hot, but since the trail was mostly in the shade and there were ample opportunities for the dogs to get in the water, I thought they’d do fine.

In spite of the shade and water, the weather in this scene was too hot for the dog's paws.
But the hike on our last day of vacation, intended to be an easy hike alongside a cool river to view waterfalls, turned out to be too hot for the dogs’ feet—a bad choice.

There was just one thing I hadn’t considered: There were short stretches of the trail without shade, and on those stretches, the ground was very hot. Woody didn’t show any discomfort, but on one longer stretch (perhaps 50 yards), Boone suddenly started kicking his back feet as if he was walking on hot lava. (Well, he was; the soil in this area is largely volcanic.) His ears flattened and he looked panicked. The moment I realized what was happening, I dropped both dogs’ leashes and said, “Run! Let’s go!” and ran with them to the next shade. When we all stopped in the shade I poured the last water I had in my water bottle on Boone’s feet, examining each one for any signs of blisters or sores. There were none (thank dog!) but I’m sure they felt burned.

That’s where we turned around, but not before I left the dogs with my husband in the shade, and went further down the trail to refill water bottles from the river and thoroughly wet down my dogs’ paws and lower legs. I took their leashes off and said, “Let’s go!” and let them run down the exposed part of the trail to another patch of shade. I did that each time we got to a highly exposed bit of trail, hoping that this would prevent their feet from blistering (it did). And I let them enter the river a half-dozen times in the mile-and-a-half that it took to get back to the car, so they could cool their feet and drink.

But here’s the “bad dog owner” part. This is a very popular trail and it was a holiday week, so we passed other people nearly every minute. Every time I saw another dog coming toward us, I leashed my dogs (just like they had been leashed the entire way outbound) but otherwise I left them off-leash so they could speed past any hot parts on the trail and then slow down in the shade. This meant that they passed other hikers off leash, both hikers going the opposite way on the busy trail and hikers who were walking slower than us. And twice, someone snapped at me about this. “They’re supposed to be on leash,” called one woman who was sitting with a man on the side of the trail as we trotted past. I kept going but called back, “I know, I’m sorry!”

An older gentleman in a fisherman’s vest and carrying a fishing rod was madder as my dogs passed him going the opposite way, with me about 15 feet behind them. “Put your damn dogs on a leash! It’s the law!” he shouted. My emotions were raw because I was feeling so bad about potentially hurting my dogs, and breaking the rules, and I started crying as I babbled my apologies to him. All I could do was make lame excuses about being evacuated from a fire and not planning to bring the dogs and not realizing that their feet would be burning on this trail. I sounded like an idiot, I’m sure! And I felt like one!

Well, we made it back to the car in one piece, and neither dog had any visible blisters or sores. Even so, I still feel like a criminal for taking so long to realize that the ground had gotten so hot—too hot for barefoot dogs! The experience really marred my memory of our otherwise nice hike in an absolutely beautiful area.

Ugh! Have you ever been that “bad dog owner”—even if you are usually quite responsible? Someone tell me I’m not alone!

Dog Food With Probiotics

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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5
Dog food with probiotics can help support your dog's health.
: Choosing dog food that contains probiotics is a smart move for your dog’s overall health. Credit: Anastas | Getty Images

Dog foods with added probiotics offer dog owners a convenient and effective way to support their dog’s health every day, without having to purchase additional supplements. Probiotics work best with consistent, long-term use, at the proper dosing amount. Having them already incorporated into the diet ensures your dog receives them with every meal and takes the guesswork out of proper dosing. In this article, we will delve into probiotics, their health advantages, and why choosing dog food with added probiotics could be beneficial for your pet.

Do Dogs Need Probiotics?

In recent years, the topic of probiotics for dogs has gained in popularity. Probiotics convey many health benefits, from improving digestion, decreasing stress and anxiety, amplifying the immune system, supporting cognitive health, and more. While they used to only be available as a supplement, probiotics are now being incorporated into dog food formulas as well.

What Are Probiotics for Dogs?

Probiotics are live microorganisms that are beneficial to the host animal and provide health benefits when consumed in adequate quantities. These beneficial bacteria help maintain a healthy balance of gut microflora, which is vital for not only healthy digestion, but overall health and wellness. While probiotics colonize and inhabit the gut of your dog, their impact is systemic. Research is now showing the importance of gut health on immune function, with 70% of your dog’s immune system residing within the gut, cognitive support, with gut health impacting the brain through the gut-brain axis, and aging.

Probiotics in Dry Dog Food

You may notice that probiotics are only offered in dry foods and not wet or fresh diets. Why is that? While probiotics are live organisms, many have the ability to go dormant, or sleep, until conditions are right for them to replicate. The key ingredient for many of them to wake from their dormant state is water.

Kibble, freeze-dried, baked, and air-dried pet foods have low enough moisture levels to keep the added probiotics dormant for the duration of their shelf life. Once your dog consumes them, they become active and begin to replicate and colonize your dog’s gut.

The probiotics in these formulations are added to the outside of the food in the final step of manufacturing prior to bagging. Because of this, proper storage is vital to keep the probiotics viable and prevent spoilage; keep your dog’s food out of extreme heat, sealed from humidity, and out of direct sunlight.

Choosing Dog Food with Probiotics

When looking for dog food with probiotics, opt for brands that use high-quality, easily digestible ingredients. Look for foods that contain specific strains known to benefit dogs, such as Bifidobacterium and Lactobacillus species.

Some foods may contain prebiotic fiber as well. This prebiotic fiber supplies the probiotics with a reliable food source, promoting their growth. Good sources of prebiotic fiber include chicory root (a source of inulin), oats, and psyllium. If your dog has specific health conditions or dietary requirements, be sure to consult with your veterinarian prior to switching diets.

Incorporating probiotics into your dog’s food offers numerous benefits for your dog’s digestive health, immune system, and overall wellbeing. By choosing a high-quality dry dog food with added probiotics, you ensure your pet is receiving consistent, properly dosed, probiotic supplementation. Investing in your dog’s diet by giving them added probiotics is not just a trend, but a proactive step toward supporting their health from the inside out.

Can You Use MiraLAX for Dogs?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Dogs can take Miralax to deal with constipation.
Signs of constipation in your dog include straining to defecate, small and hard poop, an infrequent bowel movements. MiraLAX may help. Credit: HyperStory | Getty Images

MiraLAX is an over-the-counter laxative. It is an unflavored powder, which makes it perfect for mixing into your dog’s food or a little bit of water. MiraLAX works by pulling water into your dog’s GI tract, making the stool softer and easier to pass.

The active ingredient in MiraLAX is polyethylene glycol 3350. Many generic versions include the “LAX” in their names but read the ingredients label to ensure you’re getting the right medication.

While MiraLAX is generally safe, it’s wise to only give this medication under the guidance of your dog’s veterinarian. Giving too much could result in diarrhea or even dehydration. And you need to be certain the dog simply constipated and not battling something more serious.

When to Use MiraLAX for Dogs

MiraLAX is generally used to resolve and prevent constipation.

Symptoms of constipation in dogs include:

  • Straining to defecate
  • Small, hard stools
  • Infrequent defecation
  • Blood on stool
  • Discomfort when pooping
  • Distended abdomen
  • Poor appetite
  • Vomiting

While dogs can have a single bout of constipation that doesn’t recur, constipation also can be caused by a variety of medical problems, some of which are serious. Many signs of constipation are also symptoms of different health problems.

Constipation at the Vet’s Office

Your veterinarian will do an exam and possibly an X-ray to verify that your dog truly is constipated. He or she may recommend additional testing such as bloodwork, a fecal exam, or an abdominal ultrasound to determine why your dog is constipated. This is especially important if your dog suffers from frequent constipation.

In severe cases, your dog may need an enema or deobstipation under anesthesia to manually remove large amounts of hard, stuck stool from the colon.

If this is your dog’s first time being constipated and your veterinarian doesn’t find anything alarming, he or she may recommend MiraLAX for just a few days to get your dog’s bowels moving properly again.

Dogs who have chronic bouts of constipation or are on medications that can cause constipation may stay on MiraLAX long-term.

Dog Laxative Dosing

Your veterinarian will recommend a specific dose of MiraLAX for your dog based on her size, stool quality, and overall health.

In general, small dogs start at 1/8 or ¼ teaspoon of powder twice a day, while large dogs might get ½ to ¾ teaspoon twice a day. Depending on how your dog responds, your veterinarian may have you increase or decrease the dose.

You will work toward the dose that makes your dog’s poop soft but still formed. Liquid stool means the dose is too high, while hard stool means the dose is too low.

MiraLAX Caution With Dogs

This is worth repeating: Do not give MiraLAX to your dog without consulting your veterinarian. Giving a laxative when it is not needed could complicate some health situations, such as an intestinal blockage from eating a toy or giving too much could cause dehydration.

How to House Train a Puppy

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Learning how to recognize your puppies signs is part of house training a puppy.
Learning to recognize how your puppy signals that she needs to go out is key in the potty training process. Credit: Christopher Biggs | Getty Images

House training your puppy is all about consistency, attention to detail, and taking advantage of your puppy’s natural behaviors. Most puppies are potty trained by six months of age, but this can vary depending on a number of factors.

Potty training is actually more about training you than it is about training your puppy. You have two goals:

  1. Read your puppy’s body language so you know when she needs to go outside.
  2. Be proactive to prevent accidents from happening in the first place so that your puppy quickly develops good habits.

Understanding Your Puppy’s Needs

Young puppies have very small bladders and are still developing muscle tone. Because of this, when they need to go, they go! And this happens frequently.

Puppies naturally want to keep their living space clean. However, for a puppy, your house is a big place. It will take time for your puppy to understand that first an entire room and then the whole house counts as their living space.

Key times that puppies frequently need to pee or poop include:

  • After naps
  • After meals
  • When a play session starts to wind down

Your puppy is already able to tell you when he needs to pee or poop. The trick is you learning to recognize his signals, and then over time improving your communication with each other.

A Crate is Your Best Friend

Crates are the very best tool when house training a puppy. Even if you don’t intend to use a crate frequently throughout your dog’s life, crate training is a life skill that every dog should have for both their peace of mind and ours, and it makes house training much easier!

Choose a crate that is big enough for your puppy to comfortably lie down, but not much bigger. For large-breed puppies, you will need to increase the size of the crate as your puppy grows (some crates come with a divider so you can change up the space your puppy has over time). Why the small size? If your puppy has a large space at his disposal, it is very easy for him to choose one section of the area as his napping and playing space, and another corner as the peeing and pooping spot. Not what you want. You want the crate to be small enough that your puppy prefers to not pee or poop in there.

The crate should have a blanket or bed that is appropriate for the climate, and a couple of toys that your puppy can play with. I recommend feeding meals in the crate to help make it a positive place for your puppy.

Using a Crate at Night

Place the crate right next to your bed. This way your puppy knows you are close by, and you can even reach down with your hand for him to nuzzle. The other plus to having your puppy close is you can hear any fussing.

If your puppy wakes up in the middle of the night and needs to pee, he will fuss rather than make a mess in his crate. For some puppies this is just a little whining, while others may bark or scream. When you hear your puppy fussing, quickly either carry him outside or encourage him to run to the door and yard. Place him in the grass and praise when he pees or poops.

Once done with your little bathroom break, place your puppy back in his crate with a treat and go back to bed.

Tips:

  • The first couple nights home with a new puppy may be challenging. This is normal, and your puppy will settle in to his new routine.
  • Use a treat that takes a couple minutes to chew as a bedtime snack. This helps to encourage your puppy to settle down and calms him at bedtime.
  • No playtime during midnight pee breaks. Some older puppies may try waking you up for a game of tug or chase—don’t give in. The rule is that when your puppy fusses, he gets a trip outside for a short walk, then back to bed.
  • Stay calm, even when you’re exhausted (we’ve all been there). Your puppy is learning and growing, and these things can take time.

Using a Crate During the Day

As much as you are able, you will want to be watching your puppy directly and interacting with him (more on that later). But this is not always possible. Whether you are getting some work done, making dinner, running errands, or taking a nap, the crate will help you maintain house training criteria when you can’t be watching your pup every minute.

Set the crate up somewhere that you can hear and/or see your puppy. Give your puppy a treat or toy when putting him in the crate so he has something to do. Take him out for regular bathroom breaks—with puppies 8-12 weeks old, I like to do this every hour if possible. It can feel excessive, but bringing your puppy outside frequently gives him lots of opportunities to take care of business, reducing the risk of accidents in the house.

Listen for signs that your puppy is waking up from a nap or getting fussy, as these indicate that it is time to go outside.

As your puppy gets older and you get a feel for his schedule and bladder strength, you can gradually increase the amount of time between bathroom breaks. A general rule of thumb is that puppies can go one hour for each month of age—for example, a five-month-old puppy can go five hours without peeing. But this can vary between individual puppies.

Learn Your Puppy’s Signals

When you are able to keep an eye on your puppy, she can roam more freely. But remember your two goals—reading your puppy’s body language and being proactive to set your puppy up for success and prevent accidents.

Every puppy communicates in their own way, but there are common signals that a puppy needs a trip outside. Watch your puppy for one or more of these behaviors:

  • Circling
  • Wandering away from play
  • Whining

If you see your puppy do one of these things or notice any other sudden change in behavior, take her outside to see if she needs to go.

When in Doubt—Go Out!

False alarms can be frustrating, but it is much better to take your puppy out when she doesn’t really need it than to cause her to have an accident.

Over time, your puppy will learn that she has the ability to “make” you take her outside. By responding to her subtle signals that she needs to pee or poop, you are giving those signals value and strengthening them over time.

One of my dogs has a particular whine and pace that he does when he really needs to go out. Another stares at me like she’s trying to fry my brains with her laser eyes. And the third gets my attention and then leads me to the door to ask to go out (yes, she has spoiled me!).

Praise for Good Habits

Praise and reward your puppy for peeing and pooping outside. Tell her what a brilliant and perfect puppy she is, and pet her or give her a treat. You can also play a little after she eliminates outside.

You are trying to build the pattern for her that the urge to eliminate means it is time to go outside, which is a really good thing!

How Long Does It Take to Potty Train a Puppy?

Six months of age is a rough ballpark for when your puppy should be fully housetrained. That said, some puppies are house trained as early as four months, while others may take a full year.

Young puppies will take longer to house train, while older puppies generally catch on quicker (plus they have better bladder control).

Small and toy breed puppies tend to take longer to house train because of their tiny bladders and small size.

Your puppy’s upbringing before coming to your house will also impact house training. If your puppy was in a really messy situation, he may not value cleanliness at first. And if your puppy has only eliminated on cement in a kennel run, he may be confused about the new rules about needing to eliminate on grass. Be patient.

How Long Can a Puppy Go Without Peeing?

As stated above, the general rule of thumb is that a puppy can go one hour for each month of age. So a three-month-old puppy can go three hours, a six-month-old puppy can go six hours, etc.

This can vary based on your individual puppy’s bladder strength and any extenuating factors, such as drinking a bunch of water after playing.

Overnight is the exception. Most 8-week-old puppies are capable of sleeping through the night but may not always, so keep the crate close so you will hear your puppy fuss if she needs to go out. But you do not need to set alarms every two hours for walks—as long as your puppy is resting, you can too.

Handling Long Stretches Between Walks

Despite our best efforts, sometimes we can’t stick to our puppy’s ideal potty break schedule. In these situations, set your puppy up with a larger space and a couple of pee pads to provide an okay place to go if she needs to.

Accidents Happen

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No matter how awesome of a puppy mom or dad you are, sooner or later you’re going to slip up and your puppy will have an accident in the house. It’s okay! Here are some things to keep in mind:

  • Your puppy isn’t a bad puppy. Poop (and pee) happens.
  • Yelling won’t help. Your puppy has no idea why you’re yelling—all she knows is that you are being really scary.
  • If you catch your puppy in the act, scoop her up and rush her outside, then praise for finishing the job in the yard.
  • Try to identify what “went wrong.” Maybe your puppy stood up in a funny way and you weren’t quite sure it meant she needed to pee. Maybe you got too caught up in the World Cup and forgot that it was time for a trip outside.
  • Nature’s Miracle is great stuff, and safe on most rugs and carpets. Clean messes up thoroughly using an enzymatic cleaner so that the area doesn’t have a residual smell.

Be patient with both your puppy and yourself through house training. Potty training a puppy is a process—you’ve got two different species learning to communicate with each other, and one of those beings is growing rapidly and having to relearn her body on a weekly basis.

If you stay consistent about taking your puppy outside frequently to set her up for success, praise for eliminating outside, and use a crate to help when your attention needs to be elsewhere, you and your puppy will get there!

Additional Tips

  • Use baby gates or exercise pens to create smaller sections in your house. This gives your puppy a little more freedom during the day, but still keeps her partially confined and limits how far away from you she can get.
  • Ask your puppy’s breeder if they litter box training the puppies or what material they used in the puppies’ bathroom area. For example, if your puppy is used to eliminating on wood chips, placing some wood chips in your yard can help clue your puppy in to that area being the designated bathroom spot.
  • When taking a shower, bring your puppy in the bathroom! This can be a fun alternative to going in the crate, and keeps your puppy close enough you can make sure she isn’t getting into trouble.
  • Housetraining will take longer if your puppy was raised in unsanitary conditions. Be proactive and take these puppies outside as often as possible so you can minimize accidents and maximize opportunities to praise for eliminating outside.
  • Housetraining can take longer for small and toy breed puppies. These guys are just so little that they can’t fathom why it is a problem to poop in a corner of the living room—and their tiny bladders don’t help either. Be proactive about taking these puppies outside frequently, and use crates and baby gates to limit your puppy’s space when you can’t watch her closely.
  • If your puppy had been doing well with housetraining but is suddenly peeing in the house frequently, take a urine sample to your veterinarian to have it checked for a UTI.
  • If your puppy has diarrhea for more than 24 hours or if at any point she is both vomiting and having diarrhea, call your veterinarian. Puppies can get dehydrated rapidly and she may need medical care.

Best Supplements to Fight Arthritis in Dogs

By
Cindy Foley
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2
Glucosamine for dogs is a join supplement to prevent or alleviate osteoarthritis in dogs.
A wagon ride isn’t as much fun for your dog as you may think. He’d rather be walking right with you and exploring. Glucosamine, chondroitin, fish oil, and hyaluronic acid are supplements that may help joint health. Stonena7 | Getty Images

When it comes to recommended joint supplements for dogs with arthritis, most veterinary professionals start with a product that combines glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate. Other top oral supplement ingredients to consider for your dog’s arthritis are fish oil and oral hyaluronic acid (HA). Joint supplements can slow the development of arthritis and ease joint pain.

The combination of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate has been used as a joint supplement for decades. Glucosamine and chondroitin are both naturally found in joint cartilage. Both have anti-inflammatory properties, help with pain, and cushion the dog’s joint, therefore easing the pain associated with arthritic joints.

While joint supplements help dogs with early arthritis, it’s wise to begin the treatment sooner rather than later. Active dogs, like agility dogs, often begin to take a joint supplement like glucosamine when they are around 1 year old to help support joint cartilage and slow the development of arthritis.

Many people cling to the decades-old belief that supplements to help arthritis don’t work. Well, that’s not entirely true. Joint supplements are preventatives that help slow the development of arthritis in your dog. They are not cures. Despite the belief that research is too inconclusive to believe, even as late as in a study released in 2023, huge numbers of anecdotal reports from veterinarians who recommend joint supplements to their clients show that joint supplements do help dogs with arthritis.

Glucosamine Dosages for Dogs

Overdoses of glucosamine are rare but can occur and usually show first as diarrhea and/or vomiting. Because the right amount of glucosamine to give your dog depends upon multiple factors, including what else is in the supplement, follow the manufacturer label instructions for your dog’s weight.

Most products recommend a short period of double dosing, which is called the “loading dose.” The loading dose jump starts the process, helping the glucosamine and chondroitin build up in your dog more quickly. You can do it with regular dosing, but it will take a lot longer to see results. Even with loading doses, it can take a month to six weeks to see a difference. Don’t give up too soon.

Note: Choose supplements made for dogs rather than sharing your human supplements, which may contain ingredients like xylitol that are toxic to dogs.

Fish Oil and HA  Are Effective Joint Supplements

Many brands of glucosamine-chondroitin for dogs include additional active ingredients like fish oil and HA. Fish oil has strong research showing it  to be a viable part of a pain-relieving treatment protocol for dogs battling arthritis, and was recommended by Dr. Joseph Wakshlag in Cornell DogWatch. In addition, a study on HA shows HA’s ability to increase the synovial fluid in a joint. HA has been long used as an injectable to promote joint health and ease arthritis, but many dogs, especially older ones, are responding extremely well to oral HA, which helps increase lubricating synovial fluid in the joints and avoids giving the dog an injection.

Best Brand of Glucosamine for Dogs

Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.

When choosing a brand of glucosamine for your dog, look for a seal from the National Association of Supplement Companies (NASC), which verifies that the product you are buying contains the ingredients and amounts listed on the labels. We would avoid companies without that seal, with one exception: Products from Nutramax, maker of brands like Cosequin and Dasequin.

Nutramax has been an undisputable leader in joint-health research on supplements for animals for over 30 years. The lack of a seal on Nutramax products is not an issue for us.

Consult Your Veterinarian About Lameness

If your dog suddenly seems lame or sore when moving or getting up, don’t just guess arthritis, especially since arthritis has a gradual onset. The soreness your dog has may be due many problems besides arthritis. Never assume, even with an old dog, that glucosamine or fish oil for dogs are cure-alls. They aren’t.

If your dog is already limping from arthritis, chances are the pain is beyond the scope of a joint supplement. He may need a pain medication, such as the recently released Librela, which is an injectable drug that is helping a large number of dogs with serious arthritis.

Finally, keep your dog at a healthy weight. Maintain regular, appropriate exercise, like long walks and low-impact games. Tell your veterinarian if you see any evidence of early arthritis. The sooner oral supplements are started, the better the results. For active dogs, beginning joint-support supplements like glucosamine at an early age may have preventative properties and slow the onset of arthritis.

Why Do Dogs Sit on You?

By
Joan Merriam
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0
Why does your dog sit on you? Most likely affection.
Caption: Affection, safety, and positive reinforcement are among the most likely reasons your dog chooses to sit on your lap. Credit: Nevena1987 | Getty Images

I don’t know about you, but I’ll freely admit I can’t speak dog or read a dog’s mind. If I could, I might be able to answer that question—and whole lot of others!—with authority. However, since we can never fully know the answer to why dogs sometimes sit on our feet or laps, we have to look to what experts understand about dog psychology.

Back in the late 20th century, people—and even trainers—believed that this kind of dog-sitting-on-us behavior was related to the dog’s desire to assert their dominance over humans. This idea arose from earlier studies of captive wolves in zoos, where packs were dominated, often violently, by a single wolf. Investigators then applied this dominance theory to wolves in the wild, and eventually to the family dog.

Luckily, science has now roundly dismissed this dominance theory as, in a word, bunk.

So, if your dog isn’t trying to dominate you by sitting on your feet or cuddling with you, what’s going on?

They Want Social Interaction

We know that dogs are social animals who have evolved to have close, affectionate relationships with humans, especially those who make up their human family. They show that affection through actions like licking (“dog kisses”), wagging their tails and wriggling their body, encouraging petting, ear-scratching, or belly-rubbing, and generally inviting physical contact with humans.

Veterinary Behaviorist and member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons Sagi Denenberg explains that a dog’s relationship with humans is related to attachment, not flawed theories of hierarchy or domination. That need for social connection drives much of dog behavior, from the desire to follow their caretakers around the house, to wanting to sit on their feet or lap.

“Often when dogs sit on our feet, it’s because they want to be close to us,” says Dr. Mary Burch, a certified applied animal behaviorist and director of the AKC Canine Good Citizen Program. “It’s one way a dog shows affection. Think of your dog sitting on your feet as the canine version of a hug or cuddle.”

This can apply to people outside the dog’s immediate human family as well: thanks to the tens of thousands of years they’ve been living with us, dogs have become acutely tuned to our emotions, which includes recognizing when we’re with people we like or care about. That means your dog may end up on the feet—or laps—of close friends and neighbors that are spending time in your home.

They Want Safety and Reassurance

Sometimes, your dog may feel the need for extra safety or reassurance. Maybe he heard gunshots, fireworks, or thunder. Maybe there was a strange dog outside. Maybe someone came in who looks different (perhaps a man with a beard or wearing a hat). Maybe it was a child, whom the dog has never been exposed to. My last dog Joey was struck with terror when he first met my kind and gentle brother, who wore a long beard and a hat.

Unfamiliar locations—your new house, a hotel room, or someone else’s home—and situations can also cause stress and anxiety, which often triggers the dog’s need to be physically close because he feels unsure and insecure. On the other hand, if your dog suddenly plops down on your feet when she’s never done it before, you might want to try figuring out if something’s distressing her.

Dogs can also “claim” their caretaker when they sense a need to protect them. It can be something as simple as that strange man with the hat, whom your dog sees as a threat. Sometimes a dog’s protectiveness has its roots in jealousy: for instance, your pup climbs onto your lap and tries to put himself between you and the person who sits down on the couch next to you. (It’s important to distinguish between a dog being protective and exhibiting protective aggression.)

They Want Rewards

Whether your dog is lolling on your feet or sprawled in your lap, you’re probably petting them, or kneading their ears, or scratching them under the chin, or just talking to them. In the dog’s mind, you’re rewarding them for doing what they’re doing, which is the definition of positive reinforcement.

Through your actions, you’re letting your dog know that his behavior is a good thing…which guarantees he’ll continue with that behavior to get what he wants: your attention!

In the end, there’s no single, definitive answer to why your dog likes to sit on you, whether it’s in your lap or on your chest or your feet. (My take has always been that since a dog’s sense of smell is so much keener than ours, one of the reasons they choose to lie on our feet is because our feet contain so many wonderful smells from places we’ve been!) One thing you can be sure of, however, is that your dog isn’t trying to be the “alpha” or “pack leader.”

Maybe the real answer is that they’re just being a dog!

Make an Evacuation Plan Today

By
Nancy Kerns
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4
Frequent emergencies demand emergency preparedness.
Here we go again. Fire season has arrived at our doorstep and the sky is full of smoke and fire-fighting air tankers dropping fire retardant. Fortunately, we have been here before and know what to do. Do you? Credit Nancy Kerns

I am sure this is tiresome, having me write one of these every year, but it seems to come up frequently here in northern California. We have a fire burning close by, and neighborhood after neighborhood has been evacuated today as the fire has progressed, close and closer to my house. The phone has been screeching with emergency alerts and updates from the Watch Duty app—a tool that has become the most critical and timely source of information about where the fire is, what resources have been deployed to fight it, and what zones people need to evacuate from.

First my sister’s boyfriend got evacuated, and he brought his two small dogs and cat to my sister’s house. My sister called me with this news, and I managed to tell her then that if she got evacuated, she should head to my house; it’s farther from where the fire started. By the time her neighborhood got evacuated, neither our cell phones nor text messages were working, but since I had recently put the Watch Duty app on her phone, she got word of the mandatory order and packed up her own dogs and essentials and she and her boyfriend caravanned to my house.

When she arrived, I was busy packing up my own essentials, just in case the fire spreads even more. It went from 10 acres at 11 am to 2,200 as I write this at 6 pm. My computer, back up drives, and cameras are in a plastic container by the door. The dogs’ gear is in a bag, also by the door. We were planning to leave for a three day camping trip tomorrow, so I had already loaded my car with a tent, sleeping bags, a cooler, and so on— but we’ll have to see what tomorrow brings. If my neighborhood gets evacuated, well, then we will go camping! And my sister and her boyfriend will head for our sister-in-law’s home 60 miles away.

Counties prepare evacuation maps to keep their residents informed.
Know your zone! Most counties make maps and designate each part of the county with a number zone. Evacuation orders generally are delivered by emergency service texts by zone.

 

We’ve been through this so many times in the past eight or so years, that it’s more or less automatic: Make sure the cars are full of gas. Plug the cell phones in while we still have power. Charge the cell phone battery backups. Fill a cooler with ice in case the power goes out and we have to put all our refrigerated food in coolers. Pack the car with tablets and a “go-bag” of toiletries, medicines, and enough clothing for a few days. Dog leashes and harnesses and food and medicines.

These sites have good information about getting ready to evacuate from a disaster. Even if you don’t have a disaster looming on the horizon, review the information so you can have some idea of what you might need to do if a tornado, hurricane, flood, fires, landslide, earthquake, or whatever might make you have to leave home.

https://www.ready.gov/plan

https://www.ready.gov/evacuation

This site, put together by animal rescue volunteers in my county, has excellent information about having to evacuate with animals:

https://www.nvadg.org/how-to-be-ready-to-evacuate-with-pets/

 

How To Teach A Dog Her Name

By
Kate O'Connor
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1
Teaching a dog their name is one of the most important cues.
When done right, teaching a dog to respond to her name is usually an easy and fun experience. Credit: Mary Swift | Getty Images

Asking for a dog to pay attention by calling her name is one of the most commonly used cues in everyday life with our canine companions. That makes it easy to teach, even by accident. Most dogs will figure out their names eventually even without being specifically taught because it is repeated and reinforced so often. Call your dog’s name when it’s time for dinner or a walk and she will quickly learn that her name means it’s time to check in to see if something good is happening. That said, you can speed the process up a lot by learning how to teach a dog her name.

Do Dogs Know Their Names?

As young children, humans learn by repetition (saying the name over and over again) and reinforcement (providing feedback when the baby responds) that their names refer to them as individuals. In a broad sense, the same is true for how dogs learn their names. However, what names mean to them is likely quite different.

For humans, a name is part of our identity, providing a series of sounds that refer to a specific individual. Just imagine what it would be like trying to navigate human society without a name. Though the communication barrier prevents us from asking, observations of dog behavior suggest that dogs respond to names more like any other learned cue.

As best we can tell, dogs identify individuals (both human and canine) primarily by smell, sight, and sound. Even if a dog never learns her humans’ names—though many do—the smell of a familiar person or the sound of a known voice will set her tail to wagging. A dog knows and remembers individuals by these characteristics first and only learns a word for that individual, such as a name, if there is a benefit to doing so. Therefore, if you want her to respond to such a word, you will need to teach her.

How To Teach A Dog Her Name

Before you begin teaching your dog her name, pick the exact name you are going to use to ask for your dog’s attention (see the sidebar below regarding nicknames). From there:

  1. Get some treats your dog really likes and find a quiet spot with as few distractions as possible.
  2. With your dog standing or sitting close to you, say her name in an upbeat, excited voice.
  3. When your dog looks at you, give her the treat. You can also use rewards such as toys, praise, or cuddles.
  4. Repeat 10-15 times.
  5. Practice several times a day until she begins to look at you as soon as you say her name.

Once your dog is reliably responding to her name when she is near you, you can begin increasing the distance between you. From 5 feet away, repeat the steps above. When she is looking at you reliably from 5 feet, move to 10 feet, and so on. Remember, this is not a ‘stay’. It’s okay, even desirable, if she moves toward you when you say her name.

When your dog is regularly looking at you when you say her name from anywhere in a quiet, distraction free room, you can move to a slightly busier location and start the process again. You’ll want to begin with her close to you and add distance once you’re sure she’s still responding well.

Once busier locations pose no problem, you can start adding distractions such as tossing a toy right before saying her name or having another person walk into the room. If she starts losing focus at any point in the process, back up a step and practice closer and with fewer distractions for a few days before trying again.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

There are a few mistakes that are easy to make but best avoided if you want your dog to learn and respond to her name quickly. These include:

  • Saying a dog’s name in anger or frustration: It’s extremely tempting to use a dog’s name when she has done something naughty. However, if she comes to associate her name with unpleasantness—even if it’s only that you are upset—she will be much more likely to either ignore it or leave when she hears it rather than turning her attention to you.
  • Saying a dog’s name repeatedly without reinforcement: Especially in the early stages of teaching a dog her name, it is important to provide positive reinforcement whenever she hears her name and responds. Failing to do so can turn it into just another word she hears that doesn’t mean anything special.
  • Using nicknames or variations of a name: While nicknames aren’t a bad thing, they can be confusing for a dog. For example, if you start teaching your new dog to pay attention when you say ‘Harriet’, but also call her ‘Harry’ and ‘Princess’ expecting her to respond the same way, it’s going to take longer to teach her that all of those sounds mean you want her attention. You are essentially asking her to learn multiple cues for one behavior at the same time, which will likely slow down the learning process.

Changing Names

Many dogs come to their new homes having already been given names. Rescues and shelters regularly name the dogs they are entrusted with and many breeders name their puppies. When it comes time for the dog to relocate to a forever home, her new family will often want to change the name she came with. I’ve been asked more than once if that is a hardship for the dog.

In my experience, it is perfectly fine to switch a dog’s name. Even if she knows and responds to the old one, think of it as asking her to learn a new cue. The trick is to teach the new name with joy and affection so she associates it with great things.

What About Nicknames?

All of my dogs have nicknames. It just seems to happen. They come into the family, a name is decided on, and next thing I know the dog is being called several things that may or may not have anything to do with the original name. So how do I avoid confusing my dogs?

It’s pretty simple, actually. Nicknames are for downtime. Each dog has one name that is used for when I want their attention. That name is what I call them during training, mealtimes, and any other time I need them to look at me. I treat that name like a cue that only gets used when I want a specific behavior and am prepared to reinforce it.

By contrast, nicknames are casual. I usually use them during playtime, talking to the dogs (which happens a lot), or while discussing the dogs with other people. My dogs have tended to get the idea eventually, but I don’t expect or need a response to a nickname and I don’t actively reinforce it. In short, don’t hold back on the nicknames but be sure to decide ahead of time what you want your dog’s ‘real’ name to be!

What is Littermate Syndrome in Dogs?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Littermate syndrome happens when one puppy receives more attention leading the other to look to their littermate for guidance.
It’s tough to manage one puppy, let alone two, and it could cause the puppy who gets less attention to look to his littermate for guidance, something called “littermate syndrome.” Credit: Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images

“Littermate syndrome” is a general term used to describe what happens when things go wrong when trying to raise two puppies at once.

Puppies are a lot of work. Housetraining, frequent meals, teaching household manners and basic life skills, midnight pee breaks. It’s seemingly endless! These little guys are learning how to be real dogs and how they fit into our world, plus coping with the changes that come with growth and maturity. As the owner of a puppy, you are that puppy’s guide on this journey.

If you’re trying to raise more than one puppy at once, it’s easy to fall short on providing enough guidance. If each of the puppies isn’t getting all the attention, socialization, and training that they need, they can become dependent on a sibling and develop a wide variety of behavioral issues.

Littermate Syndrome Is Not a Disorder

Veterinary behaviorists do not recognize littermate syndrome as a disorder because it isn’t the presence of a littermate that causes the issues. Instead, these dogs’ behavioral problems are the result of insufficient socialization and enrichment. We can even see these problems in puppies who were raised by themselves and not given the support and training they need.

Puppies who don’t get proper socialization and training may show aggression, fear, separation anxiety, and lack of trust. None of these things are fun to deal with.

It is possible to raise two littermates—or two unrelated puppies that are the same age—at the same time and do it well. The key is to embrace each puppy as an individual and recognize that each one may have unique needs as they grow up.

Socialization

Socialization is the process of safely exposing your puppy to a wide range of people, places, and things so that she can be a confident adult dog.

Children are socialized by bringing them along to stores, parks, restaurants, and other people’s houses. We can do many of the same things with our puppies. Allow your puppy to observe the world and experience places and situations that will be part of her life.

It is critical that each puppy gets individual socialization outings, without their sibling. Each puppy may have different tolerance levels for new places and things, so you will need to adjust their experiences accordingly. During socialization, you want your puppy to always feel safe, so that she trusts that new things are usually fine and that you will never put her in a situation that she can’t handle. She needs to learn how to navigate the world on her own.

For example, some puppies might love greeting groups of people from the get-go. Other puppies might be more comfortable with one-on-one greetings with strangers at first. If one puppy is sensitive to loud noises, you will want to keep her farther away from things like construction zones so that she can take in the scary sounds at a distance where she is still relaxed.

Housetraining

Just because two puppies are littermates doesn’t mean that they will housetrain at the same rate. Remember that a large part of housetraining is us learning to read our puppy’s body language and understand when she is telling us that she needs to go outside. If you are raising two puppies, you will need to keep an eye on both and learn their individual signals.

Enrichment and Training

Both puppies need to learn things like sit, down, wait, coming when called, and to walk on a leash. You might be able to train both puppies at once sometimes, but it is usually best to give each puppy individual training time. This helps to foster your bond with each puppy and minimizes confusion as they learn new things.

It can be easier to teach puppies to walk nicely on a leash one at a time. If they are together, they are more likely to bounce and play, egging each other on and causing more pulling. Set a good foundation of leash manners individually, then practice group walks.

When doing play or enrichment activities with your puppies, be sure that each one is getting their fair share of fun and attention. Sometimes one puppy likes to hog the toys, or each puppy prefers different games. Foster each puppy’s unique preferences and have individual play sessions to improve your bond and learn more about each puppy’s personality.

Pepto Bismol for Dogs: Can Dogs Have It & How to Use It Safely

By
Dr. Kathryn Allen
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19
dog vomit
Pepto Bismol helps dogs with vomiting and diarrhea. @Cunaplus_M.Faba/Getty Images

Vomiting and/or diarrhea are no picnic for you or your dog. It’s only natural to want a home remedy that will offer relief as quickly as possible. Since Pepto Bismol helps our upset stomachs, you may wonder, “Can I give my dog Pepto Bismol?” Generally, yes, you can.

The active ingredient in Pepto Bismol and generic versions is bismuth subsalicylate, an antidiarrheal medication that can safely reduce a dog’s symptoms of diarrhea, nausea, heartburn, gas, and stomach pain. Note: If using a generic version of this product, read the label to be certain it does not contain xylitol, which is a sweetener that is deadly to dogs.

Will Pepto Bismol stop my dog’s vomiting and diarrhea?

Pepto Bismol coats the irritated surfaces in the dog’s gastrointestinal (GI) tract, reducing inflammation of the stomach lining, just as it does in humans. This slows or stops the release of excessive fluid into the digestive tract, reducing the dog’s discomfort and slowing or stopping diarrhea. Be aware that giving Pepto Bismol to dogs may temporarily change the color of her poop to a gray/greenish-black color.

How much Pepto Bismol should I give my dog?

Liquid Pepto Bismol is available in original strength and an ultra-strength formula. It’s also available as caplets, liquid-caps, and chewable tablets. For accurate dosing, choose the original-strength liquid formula.

A generally accepted safe canine dose of original-strength liquid Pepto Bismol is 0.25 to 2 ml per kg of the dog’s body weight, which is 0.1 to 0.9 ml per lb of body weight. Dosage is a maximum of three to four times a day. Note: Dosing your dog may be easiest using a pet dosing syringe marked in ml (milliliters). The cup that comes with Pepto Bismol holds up to 30 ml and is awkward to use to administer the medicine to a dog.

Can I give my dog Pepto Bismol with other medications?

Do not give your dog Pepto Bismol if she receives anti-inflammatory medication (such as prednisone, carprofen, meloxicam, or aspirin), heart medication (furosemide, enalapril, benazepril), or is pregnant or nursing. Also, Pepto Bismol can interfere with radiographs (X-ray studies), so don’t use it if you are planning a visit to the veterinarian within 24 hours.

Vomiting and diarrhea are common in dogs and, often, Pepto Bismol can help, as can a short fast followed by a bland diet. If, however, your dog is markedly distressed or does not improve after 24 to 48 hours, the GI problems could be a sign of something more serious and she should see her veterinarian immediately.

Why is My Dog Farting So Much?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
A dog farting a lot can indicate that their diet isn't best for them, or a digestive issue.
While much of the time flatulence is normal for a dog, particularly foul-smelling or frequent farts could be a sign of a dietary or health problem. Credit: Lourdes Balduque | Getty Images

An occasional toot here and there is one thing, but if your dog’s nether regions can clear a room, it may be time for some detective work and even a visit to the veterinarian.

Causes of Flatulence

Flatulence—farts or passing gas—is a perfectly normal part of being a dog (or a human!). Your dog’s digestive tract is full of bacteria which aid in digestion by helping to break foods down. As food is broken down, gas is sometimes produced. This gas then escapes the body as a fart.

Your dog can also get gas in his digestive tract by swallowing air. Brachycephalic dogs with short muzzles, such as Pugs, Boston Terriers, and Bulldogs, tend to swallow more air than other dogs because of the structure of their head and neck. This leads to more frequent flatulence. Dogs of any shape can swallow air when panting, wolfing down food, or chugging water.

The food that your dog eats can also increase flatulence. High fat, high fiber, and spicy foods all come with an increased chance of farts. Also, most dogs are lactose intolerant which makes dairy products a risky business. And then of course there are the things that your dog eats even though he shouldn’t such as trash, stolen table scraps, spoiled food, or dead things found in the yard.

Here is a list of possible causes for dog farts:

  • Swallowing air when eating or drinking too fast
  • Swallowing air while panting after exercise
  • Eating cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, peas, or beans
  • High fat or high fiber diet
  • Dairy such as cheese or ice cream
  • Spicy foods
  • Dietary indiscretion
  • Changing to a new food too quickly
  • Stress
  • Overweight

If you find yourself asking, “Why is my dog farting so much all of a sudden?” these are some easy causes to identify and then avoid in the future. While the toxic gas from a garbage can raid isn’t pleasant, it will pass.

But there are more concerning causes of flatulence in dogs. Health problems in the digestive tract can cause increased or excessively stinky farts. There are even some problems with the heart or lungs can contribute.

These are some health problems that may contribute to dog farts:

  • Food intolerance
  • Food allergy
  • Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD)
  • Irritable bowel syndrome (IBS)
  • Pancreatitis
  • Intestinal parasites
  • Inflammation of the colon
  • Small intestinal bacterial overgrowth
  • Exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI)
  • Cancer in the GI tract
  • Respiratory disease or cancer in the lungs resulting in increased breathing rate
  • Heart disease causing an increased breathing rate

When to Call a Vet

If your dog just farts once in a while or there is a very clear reason why he is extra stinky today (i.e., he stole a bowl of ice cream from your visiting nephew), you don’t have anything to worry about.

A vet visit is in order if your dog has frequent flatulence, or if it suddenly becomes worse in frequency or strength. In many cases bad gas is not an emergency, but it is still helpful to figure out why your dog is so stinky and make a plan to address it.

You should definitely call your vet if your dog has other symptoms of illness including:

  • Diarrhea
  • Bloody stool
  • Vomiting
  • Painful abdomen
  • Poor appetite
  • Weight loss
  • Lethargy or depression
  • Loud gurgling in the abdomen
  • Constant panting even in a cool environment
  • Difficulty breathing

If your dog is struggling to breathe or has both vomiting and diarrhea, this is an emergency.

Your veterinarian will use a variety of tests to determine why your dog has bad gas. First, she will ask lots of questions about your dog’s usual diet, any treats he regularly gets, changes to his diet, and if he has gotten into anything recently. Then she will do a physical exam to assess your dog’s overall health including palpating his abdomen. From there she will recommend testing based on what she thinks is the most likely cause of the stinky farts.

Testing may include bloodwork, a fecal exam, rectal exam, diet trial, x-rays, ultrasound, and/or endoscopy of the GI tract with biopsies. If a medical problem is found, appropriate treatment should help to resolve the farts along with any other symptoms.

Why Do My Dog’s Farts Smell So Bad?

Many different factors can impact the intensity of your dog’s farts.

  • High fiber foods—these take longer to digest resulting in more gas buildup in the intestines
  • Foods containing sulfur that is released during digestion
  • Spoiled food
  • Bacterial infections
  • Inflammation within the GI tract
  • Stress, medications, or an illness that causes food to travel too quickly or too slowly through the digestive tract

Adjusting your dog’s diet if needed or treating medical issues can help to decrease the pungency of your dog’s farts.

How to Decrease Dog Farts

If your dog has an underlying medical issue that is contributing to his farts, treating the illness will help to resolve the farts. For example, EPI is treated by adding digestive enzymes to your dog’s meals to help him digest food normally.

Food allergies and intolerances can be difficult to diagnose. True food allergies usually come with skin issues such as chronic ear infections, itchy red skin year-round, and chronic paw infections. Food intolerances are less severe but can still be unpleasant if they cause bloating or abnormal stools. If your veterinarian suspects one of these issues, she will likely recommend trying a novel diet with ingredients that your dog has not had before. If his symptoms go away after 8-12 weeks on the new diet, he probably has a food allergy or intolerance. It may take several rounds of diet trials to identify the ingredient causing the trouble, but protein sources such as beef, chicken, or eggs are the most common offenders for food allergies.

Here are some general tips to decrease stinky farts in your otherwise healthy dog:

  • Avoid dairy products
  • Feed “farty” vegetables such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, or beans in moderation
  • Feed small, frequent meals rather than one or two big meals
  • Use a slow feeder bowl to prevent your dog from gulping down his food
  • Keep your dog active—exercise and lean body condition improve digestion
  • Consider switching to a food that is easily digestible and low in fat and fiber
  • Add dog-specific probiotics to your dog’s meals
  • Choose low-fiber dog treats
  • Skip the table scraps
  • Secure garbage bins so your dog can’t get into them
  • Consider supplements that include Yucca shidigera or zinc acetate
  • Ask your veterinarian about the medication simethicone or starting your dog on an antacid

We hope these tips help your family to breathe easy!

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Latest Blog

Most trainers don't recommend adopting littermates.
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Don’t Adopt Littermates

Nancy Kerns 13
STOP! Don’t do it! Whether the idea of adopting two puppies just occurred to you, or you had been planning to adopt two all along, every trainer I’ve ever met would advise you to think twice and adopt just one. Because training and socializing littermates well is more than twice as difficult as training and socializing one puppy.
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