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The Meanings Behind Different Dog Sounds

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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dog sounds

There are generally six types of sounds that dogs use in order to vocally communicate with humans or with other canines. Most noises dogs make indicate some form of frustration, like when a dog whines to go outside. But dogs will also vocalize pleasure – and happy dog noises don’t always sound too friendly! Here’s a rundown of what dog sounds might mean:

1. Barking

Why do dogs bark? Dogs bark for many reasons, including alert (there’s something out there!), alarm (there’s something bad out there) boredom, demand, fear, suspicion, distress, and pleasure (play). If you know how to tell between different kinds of dog barks, you can easily understand why your dog is so vocal in the first place! Believe it or not, dogs’ vocal communication methods aren’t just for annoying neighbors – they’re for telling you something important has happened!

The bark of a distressed dog, such as a dog who suffers from isolation or separation distress or anxiety, is high-pitched and repetitive; getting higher in pitch as the dog becomes more upset. Boredom barking tends to be more of a repetitive monotone. Alert bark is likely to be a sharp, staccato sound; alarm barking adds a note of intensity to the alert.

Demand barks are sharp and persistent, and directed at the human who could/should ostensibly provide whatever the dog demands. At least, the dog thinks so. Suspicious barks are usually low in tone, and slow, while fearful barking is often low but faster. Play barking just sounds . . . playful. If you have any doubt – look to see what the dog is doing. If he’s playing, it’s probably play barking.

2. Baying

Baying is deep-throated, prolonged barking, most often heard when a dog is in pursuit of prey, but also sometimes offered by a dog who is challenging an intruder. The scent hounds are notorious for their melodic baying voices. Some people interpret dog baying a long moaning sound.

3. Growling

Growls are most often a warning that serious aggression may ensue if you persist in whatever you’re doing, or what-ever is going on around him. Rather than taking offense at your dog’s growl, heed his warning, and figure out how to make him more comfortable with the situation.

If instead of a hostile growl, your dog is grumbling lowly, he may be perfectly happy! Dogs also growl in play. It’s common for a dog to growl while playing tug – and that’s perfectly appropriate as long as the rest of his body language says he’s playing. If there’s any doubt in your mind, take a break from play to let him calm down. Some dogs also growl in pleasure. Rottweilers are notorious for “grumbling” when being petted and playing, and absent any signs of stress, this is interpreted as a “feels good” happy dog noise.

4. Howling

Howling is often triggered by a high-pitched sound; many dogs howl at the sound of fire and police sirens. (Two of my own dogs howl when our donkey brays). Some dog owners have taught their dogs to howl on cue, such as the owner howling.

Howling is generally considered to be communication between pack members: perhaps to locate another pack member, or to call the pack for hunting. Some dogs howl when they are significantly distressed – again, a common symptom of isolation and separation distress.

Different Dog Sounds
© Dutchinny | Dreamstime.com

5. Whimpering Sounds/Yelping

A whimper or a yelp is often an indication that a dog is in pain. This may happen when dogs play, if one dog bites the other dog too hard. The whimper or yelp is used to communicate the dog’s distress to a pack member (or human) when they are friendly. The other dog or human is expected to react positively to the communication. Whimpers can also indicate strong excitement such as when an owner returns at the end of a long workday. Excitement whimpering is often accompanied by licking, jumping, and barking. Dog whimpering is softer and less intense than whining. Puppy crying sounds are just little whimpers.

6. Whining

Dog whining sounds are high-pitched vocalizations, often produced nasally with the mouth closed. A dog may whine when it wants something, needs or wants to go outside, feels frustrated by leash restraint, is separated from a valued companion (human or otherwise), or just wants attention. It is usually an indication of some increased level of stress for the dog. Most often the dog crying sound is an exaggerated whine or whimper.

Speaking Words?

Some dogs are capable of replicating human speech sounds. When these sounds are selectively reinforced, dogs can appear to be speaking human words, sometimes even sentences. It is most likely that the dogs have no concept of the meaning behind the words they are “speaking” – although as we learn more about canine cognition, one can’t ever be too sure.

It’s interesting to note that one of the phrases most frequently taught to dogs by their owners is some version of, “I love you…” Youtube provides some entertaining footage of talking dogs, like this one.

Guide to Reading Canine Body Language

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Reading canine body language is an important factor in understanding your dog.
Reading canine body language is important to getting the best results from training your dog. Credit: Nico De Pasquale Photography | Getty Images

Despite conventional wisdom, a wagging tail doesn’t always mean a happy dog. The following abridged guide to canine communications will help you become a skilled translator. [ See also, “Learn to Read Your Dog’s Body Signals,” here.]

Remember that breed characteristics can complicate the message; the relaxed ears and tail of an Akita (prick-eared, tail curled over the back) look very different from the relaxed ears and tail of a Golden Retriever (drop-eared; long, low tail).

Also note that if body language vacillates back and forth it can indicate ambivalence or conflict, which may precede a choice toward aggression.

Canine body language like an erect tail means the dog is excited, possibly due to happiness or alert to danger.
Forward posture and tail above horizontal suggest this dog is curious or on alert. The halfway-recumbent ear position signals that her arousal level is not high.
The canine body language of these two dogs suggest that they are alert and ready to respond to an intruder aggressively.
Forward ears, tight mouths, high tails and hard stares warn that these three junkyard dogs take their guarding job seriously.

Tail

Tucked under: Submissive/appeasing, deferent, or fearful

Low and still: Calm, relaxed

Low to medium carriage, gently waving: Relaxed, friendly

Low to medium carriage, fast wag: Submissive/appeasing or happy, friendly

High carriage, still/vibrating or fast wag: Tension, arousal, excitement; could be play arousal or aggression arousal

Canine body language can also be breed specific, as this Husky dog's tail being raised is just a part of how the breed carries itself.
Don’t be fooled! This Husky’s erect tail is normal tail-carriage position for the breed. His relaxed eyes, mouth, and ears tell us he is not aroused.

 

Ears

Pinned back: Submissive/appeasing, deferent,  or fearful

Back and relaxed: Calm, relaxed, friendly

Forward and relaxed: Aware, friendly

Pricked forward: Alert, excitement, arousal, assertive; could be play arousal or aggression arousal.

This dog's body language suggests that she is eager to make friends with a submissive display.
She’s the picture of appeasement: soft eyes, ears flattened, corners of mouth pulled back, body curved, and tail in neutral position.

Eyes

Averted, no eye contact: Submissive/appeasing, deferent, or fearful; may be a subtle flick of the eyes, or may turn entire head away

Squinting, or eyes closed: Submissive/appeasing, happy greeting

Soft, direct eye contact: Calm, relaxed, friendly

Eyes open wide: Confident, assertive

Hard stare: Alert, excitement, arousal; could be play aroused in play or aroused in aggression

This spaniels body language, the intense stare, indicates that it is alert and looking for trouble.
This could be trouble; the Cavalier King Charles is giving a very tense, hard stare at the Boxer, who calmly averts his eyes to avoid triggering a confrontation. NOTE: WDJ does not condone or recommend choke collars.

Mouth

Lips pulled back: Submissive/appeasing or fearful (may also be lifted in “submissive grin” or “aggressive grin”)

Licking lips, yawning: Stressed, fearful – or tired!

Lips relaxed: Calm, relaxed, friendly

Lips puckered forward, may be lifted (snarl): Assertive, threatening.

Hair

Piloerection: Also known as “raised hackles,” this is simply a sign of arousal. While it can indicate aggression, dogs may also show piloerection when they are fearful, uncertain, or engaged in excited play.

This dog's hackles are raised suggesting that it is wary but not yet aroused to anger.
The hair on this dog’s shoulders, back, and tail rose the moment he spotted a stray dog outside his fenced yard. This is an unconscious emotional reaction to the sight of the strange dog and does not automatically predict aggression.

Body Posture

Behind vertical, lowered; hackles may be raised: Could be submissive and/or appeasing or fearful

Vertical, full height: Confident, relaxed

Ahead of vertical, standing tall; hackles may be raised: Assertive, alert, excitement, arousal; could be play arousal or aggressive arousal

Shoulders lowered, hindquarters elevated: A play bow is a clear invitation to play; the dog is sending a message that behavior that might otherwise look like aggression is intended in play.

One of these dogs is looking to play, the other is declining the invitation.
This Jack Russell is offering a play bow – an invitation to the Pomeranian to play. The Pomeranian is politely declining, by avoiding eye contact and hiding under the stool.

 

These dogs are tense and alert, but aren't showing signs of anger. It could become an issue if they aren't supervised.
There is tension between these two (note the direct eye contact and raised tails) but it could be play tension. The Pointer’s lowered hindquarters, raised front paw, and relaxed mouth suggest that he may be about to do a play-bounce, inviting the Viszla to romp. NOTE: Shock and pinch collars are aversive, pain-causing tools – not recommended by WDJ. They are also highly dangerous hazards to safety at a dog park or anytime dogs are playing together.

READ: Do dog cry tears?

Guide to Stress Signals in Dogs

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Stiff movement: Tension can cause a noticeable stiffness in leg, body, and tail movements.

Anorexia

Stress causes the appetite to shut down. A dog who won’t eat moderate to high-value treats may just be distracted or simply not hungry, but refusal to eat is a common indicator of stress.

Appeasement/Deference Signals

Appeasement and deference aren’t always an indicator of stress. They are important everyday communication tools for keeping peace in social hierarchies, and are often presented in calm, stress-free interactions. They are offered in a social interaction to promote the tranquility of the group and the safety of the group’s members. When offered in conjunction with other behaviors, they can be an indicator of stress as well. Appeasement and deference signals include:

Avoidance
Avoidance: Dog turns away; shuts down; evades handler’s touch and treats.

Slow movement: appeasing/deferent dog appears to be moving in slow-motion

Lip-licking: appeasing/deferent dog licks at the mouth of the higher ranking member of the social group

Sitting/lying down/exposing underside: appeasing/deferent dog lowers body posture, exposing vulnerable parts

Turning head away, averting eyes: appeasing/deferent dog avoids eye contact, exposes neck

Appeasement or Deference Signals
The appeasing/deferent dog in this photo shows a lowered body posture and avoids eye contact with the other dogs.

Avoidance

Dog turns away; shuts down; evades handler’s touch and treats.

Brow Ridges

Furrows or muscle ridges in the dog’s forehead and around the eyes.

Displacement Behaviors
Nose-licking is a common displacement behavior.

Difficulty Learning

Dogs are unable to learn well or easily when under significant stress.

Digestive Disturbances

Vomiting and diarrhea can be a sign of illness – or of stress; the digestive system reacts strongly to stress. Carsickness is often a stress reaction.

Displacement Behaviors

These are behaviors performed in an effort to resolve an internal stress conflict for the dog. They may be observed in a dog who is stressed and in isolation – for example a dog left alone in an exam room in a veterinary hospital – differentiating them from behaviors related to relationship.

Clinging Behaviors
Leaning/clinging: The stressed dog seeks contact with her human for reassurance.

Blinking: Eyes blink at a faster-than normal rate

Nose-Licking: Dog’s tongue flicks out once or multiple times

Chattering teeth

Scratching

Shaking off (as if wet, but dog is dry)

Yawning

Drooling

May be an indication of stress – or response to the presence of food, an indication of a mouth injury, or digestive distress.

Get more details on excessive dog drooling here.

Excessive Grooming

Dog may lick or chew paws, legs, flank, tail, and genital areas, even to the point of self-mutilation.

Hyperactivity

Frantic behavior, pacing, sometimes misinterpreted as ignoring, “fooling around,” or “blowing off” owner.

Hyperactivity
Frantic, hyperactive “fooling around” behavior is a common sign of stress in dogs.

Immune System Disorders

Long-term stress weakens the immune system. Immune related problems can improve when overall levels of stress are reduced.

Lack of Attention/Focus

The brain has difficulty processing information when stressed.

Lowered Body Posture
“Slinking,” acting “guilty,” or “sneaky” (all misinterpretations of dog body language) can be indicators of stress.

Leaning/Clinging

The stressed dog seeks contact with human as reassurance.

Lowered Body Posture

“Slinking,” acting “guilty,” or “sneaky” (all misinterpretations of dog body language) can be indicators of stress.

Mouthing

Willingness to use mouth on human skin – can be puppy exploration or adult poor manners, but can also be an expression of stress, ranging from gentle nibbling (flea biting) to hard taking of treats, to painfully hard mouthing, snapping, or biting.

Panting
Rapid shallow or heavy breathing is normal if the dog is warm or has been exercising, otherwise can be stress-related. Stress may be external (environment) or internal (pain, other medical issues).

Obsessive-Compulsive Disorders

These include compulsive imaginary fly-snapping behavior, light- and shadow-chasing, tail-chasing, pica (eating nonfood objects), flank-sucking, self-mutilation, and more. While OCDs probably have a strong genetic component, the behavior itself is usually triggered by stress.

Panting

Rapid shallow or heavy breathing is normal if the dog is warm or has been exercising, otherwise can be stress-related. Stress may be external (environment) or internal (pain, other medical issues).

Stretching
Dogs often stretch in order to relax stress-related tension in muscles.

Stretching

To relax stress-related tension in muscles. May also occur as a non-stress behavior after sleeping or staying in one place for extended period.

Stiff Movement

Tension can cause a noticeable stiffness in leg, body, and tail movements.

Stiff Movement
Tension can cause a noticeable stiffness in a dog’s leg, body, and tail movements.

Sweaty Paws

Damp footprints can be seen on floors, exam tables, rubber mats.

Trembling

May be due to stress – or cold.

Whining

High-pitched vocalization, irritating to most humans; an indication of stress. While some may interpret it as excitement, a dog who is excited to the point of whining is also stressed.

Yawning

Your dog may yawn because he’s tired – or as an appeasement signal or displacement behavior.

Learn to Read Your Dog’s Body Signals

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Relaxed, open mouth; half-closed eyes, and ears partway to the side tell us that all is good with Otto’s world.

How many times have I heard a dog owner say, “If only they could speak!” And how many times have I bitten back my first retort: “But they can speak! You’re just not listening!”

We humans are a verbal species. We long for our beloved canine companions to speak to us in words we can easily understand. While they have some capacity for vocal communication, they’ll never be able to deliver a soliloquy, or carry on long meaningful conversations with their humans. English is a second language for them. Their first is body talk – body language communication in which they generally say, quite clearly, exactly what they mean. Our problem, and as a result theirs, is that we humans tend to listen with our ears, rather than our eyes, and miss much of what they are saying.

Dogs do use some vocalizations in their daily communication with us and with each other (see “Canine Vocalizations,”). However, their body language is both more expressive and more prevalent – it’s continual! – so observing them in action is of more use than just listening to them.

There are those who have spent a lot of time trying to understand dog behavior and have become skilled at reading canine body language. They seem to interact naturally with dogs, using their own subtle body language to communicate, as much as or more than they use words. But time alone doesn’t grant this skill; there are also those who have spent a lot of time with dogs but are still woefully inept at properly interpreting the canine message.

Grasping Dog Vocabulary

The more you learn about your dog’s subtle body language communications the better you’ll be at reading them – and intervening appropriately, well before your dog is compelled to growl, snap, or bite. It’s important that you not focus on just one piece of the message. The various parts of your dog’s body work together to tell the complete story; unless you read them all and interpret them in context, you’ll miss important elements. Be especially aware of your dog’s tail, ears, eyes, mouth, hair, and body posture. For a basic vocabulary, see the “Canine Body Parts Dictionary“.

Because dog communication is a constant flow of information, it’s sometimes difficult to pick out small signals until you’ve become an educated observer. Start by studying photographs of dog body language, then watch videos that you can rewind and watch repeatedly, finally honing your skills on live dogs. Dog parks, doggie daycare centers, and training class playgroups are ideal places to practice your observation skills. Sarah Kalnajs’ DVD set, “The Language of Dogs,” is an excellent resource for body-language study.

Oblivious to Your Dog’s Stress?

Dogs tell us when they feel stressed. The more aware you are of your dog’s stress-related body language, the better you can help him out of situations that could otherwise escalate to inappropriate and dangerous behaviors. Many bites occur because owners fail to recognize and respond appropriately to their dogs’ stress signals. Even aside from aggression, there are multiple reasons why it’s important to pay attention to stress indicators:

-Stress is a universal underlying cause of aggression.
-Stress can have a negative impact on a dog’s health.
-Dogs learn poorly when stressed.
-Dogs respond poorly to cues when stressed.
-Negative classical conditioning can occur as a result of stress.

Note: the reasons to pay attention to stress also apply to all species with a central nervous system, including humans.

The smart, aware owner is always on the alert for signs that her dog is stressed, so she can alleviate tension when it occurs. Owners whose dogs are easily stressed often become hyper-vigilant, watching for tiny signs that presage more obvious stress-related behaviors, in order to forestall unpleasant reactions. If more owners were aware of these subtle signs of stress, fewer dogs would bite. That would be a very good thing.

A Canine Stress Dictionary lists some stress behaviors that are often overlooked. With each behavior the appropriate immediate course of action is to identify the stressor(s) and determine how to decrease the intensity of that stressful stimulus. In many cases you can accomplish this by increasing the distance between your dog and the stressor, be it a child, another dog, uniforms, men with beards, etc.

If possible, remove the stressor from your dog’s environment entirely. If he’s stressed by harsh verbal corrections, shock collars, and warthogs, those are all things you can simply remove from his existence (unless you live in Africa, in which case warthog removal might prove challenging).

For those stressors that can’t be eliminated, a long-term program of counter-conditioning and desensitization can change your dog’s association with a stressor from negative to positive, removing one more trigger for stress signals and possible aggression. Another strategy is to teach the dog a new operant (deliberate) response to the stressor – for example, teaching your dog that the sound of the doorbell means “Run to your crate to get a high value treat.” (See “Knock, Knock,” WDJ February 2010.)

Ears flat back, a hard stare, lowered body posture, and tension in the closed mouth are signs of a fearful dog. Approach with caution; better yet, don’t approach at all.

Bitten “Without Warning”

The number of times a person has been bitten gives big clues as to his or her capacity to read, understand, and properly respond to canine communications. No sane person wants to be bitten by a dog. If someone has been on the receiving end of canine teeth numerous times, they aren’t paying attention to what the dogs are saying, or they aren’t responding appropriately.

Before they bite, dogs almost always give clear – albeit sometimes subtle – signals. The mythical “bite without warning” is truly a rare occurrence. Most of the time the human just wasn’t “listening.”

Happy Talk

We tend to focus on aggression signals because they are the most impressive and can predict danger. But any observant and aware dog owner knows that dogs offer a lot of happy communications as well. Behaviors such as jumping up, pawing, nudging, barking, and mouthing are often about happy excitement and attention-seeking.

Look for the signals that tell you your dog loves your new boyfriend, adores playing with the neighbor’s kids, enjoys riding in the car, is happy to romp with your brother’s dogs, and totally digs chasing the tennis ball. It’s important to pay attention to those communications as well so you know what makes him happy.

Your dog speaks to you all the time. Remember to listen with your eyes.

Jean Donaldson’s Prep Training for Orthopedic Brace Casting

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

The following protocol was written with a specific process in mind: preparing a dog to happily hold still long enough to make a cast of the dog’s leg (needed for making a custom-fit mobility brace). But with a little imagination, you can customize Donaldson’s protocol to train your dog to accept any equipment.

Wearing a Supportive

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You will need 1) Glad Press ‘n Seal Wrap; 2) a roll of gauze; 3) a measuring tape; 4) six jars of meat baby food; 5) your dog’s normal ration for one meal (to be hand-fed); 6) six days lead time before your casting day. Plan on spending about 5 minutes per day in place of one of your dog’s meals; don’t cram multiple sessions into one day.

Any time she fusses or vacates the area, just say, “Oh, too bad!” and wait for her to come back and re-volunteer; whatever you do, don’t coerce her.

Day 1

– Decide where the casting area will be; standardize this and train here every day.

– Assemble all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Put it all down, then pull out a length of the Press ‘n Seal and crinkle it.

– Hand-feed your dog her ration.

– Pull out another length of Press ‘n Seal and wrap it around your dog’s upper (injured) leg.

– Open one jar of baby food and let your dog lick it all out of the jar.

– Unwrap your dog’s leg just before she finishes the baby food, then put everything away.

Day 2

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Wrap your dog’s upper leg in Press ‘n Seal and then hand-feed her meal as before.

– Unwrap her before she finishes eating.

– Pause a minute or so.

– Wrap her upper leg again in a fresh piece of Press ‘n Seal.

– Open a jar of baby food and let her eat it as before, unwrapping just before she finishes.

Day 3

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Wrap your dog’s upper leg in Press ‘n Seal and then hand-feed her meal.

– Unwrap before she finishes eating.

– Pause a minute or so.

– Wrap her entire leg in a new piece of Press ‘n Seal.

– Give her the jar of baby food, unwrapping just before she finishes.

Day 4

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Wrap your dog’s entire leg in Press ‘n Seal and hand-feed her meal.

– Once she finishes, wrap her leg with dry gauze over the Press ‘n Seal.

– Feed her the baby food, unwrapping everything just before she finishes.

Day 5

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– With the measuring tape, do all kinds of measuring of your dog’s leg (length-wise, circumference, lots of messing around) before wrapping her or feeding anything.
 
– Hand-feed her a couple of handfuls of her ration.

– Wrap her leg in Press ‘n Seal and hand-feed the rest of her meal.

– Pause briefly.

– Wrap the gauze over the Press ‘n Seal.

– Feed her the baby food, unwrapping everything just before she finishes.

Day 6

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Do some measuring, then feed her a couple of handfuls.

– Wrap her leg in Press ‘n Seal and feed her a couple more handfuls.

– Pause briefly.

– Wet the gauze, then wrap that over the Press ‘n Seal.

– Feed her the rest of her ration followed by the baby food, unwrapping before she finishes.

For the actual casting, have really good treats and a few jars of baby food on hand and be generous with these throughout the procedure.

Orthopedic Equipment for Dogs that Increase Joint Support and Overall Mobility

By
Lisa Rodier
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In our March 2011 issue, we introduced you to a very small sampling of some of the neat “assistive equipment” options that are available to help our canine companions who have limited mobility or other physical issues. We received such a great response that we thought we’d share with you a few more finds that can help make life easier for you and your dog, particularly if he or she is aging or has orthopedic or neurologic issues.

Hind-End Harness

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Remember: the products mentioned here are only the tip of the iceberg. There are numerous companies making innovative assistive products; what we’re hoping to do here is to get you thinking about some of the possibilities!

No Slip Solutions

My husband and I purchased our home, in large part, to suit our dogs. What could be better than a one-level home with hard wood floors and no stairs to navigate? The single-level layout worked well as our dogs aged, but in their senior eyes, the hardwood floors have become a skating rink.

I dreaded the thought of buying carpet runners. They’d need a rug pad so they wouldn’t slip; they’d have to be vacuumed regularly; carpet is a breeding ground for fleas (especially here in the hot, humid south); and often, runners come with a dreadful chemical smell that takes a while to dissipate.

I was thrilled when I discovered a relatively inexpensive product called CarpetSaver, a lightweight, cotton blend, foam-backed terry runner that’s machine washable. I ordered a remnant roll and was able to cut the fabric easily with household scissors to varying lengths. Although this product will never make the cover of House Beautiful and is only available in four basic colors, I’ve been pleased with the quality, durability, and wash-ability of the product, along with the ease with which my elderly Bouvier, Jolie, now navigates through the house without missing a beat. I’ve gotten a return on my investment many times over! Suggested retail price is $20 and up; remnants and overstock sometimes available.

In some areas of our house, I’ve put down yoga mats for improved traction. They’re easy to keep clean; just pick up and shake out or vacuum. I recently learned that yoga matting is available in bulk rolls. A trainer friend lined the cargo area of her Honda Element with roll matting, making her English Mastiff very happy. The matting offers a great, grippy surface to walk on, but I’ve also found that guest dogs in our home gravitate to the mats as a comfy place to nap. Although I purchased Jolie’s yoga mats at a discount store for about $10 each, I recently found a 24″ x 104″ x ¼” roll of matting online for $125.

Front Limb Care

The signature product of DogLeggs Therapeutic & Rehabilitative Products is their Standard Adjustable DogLeggs. This product offers coverage, padding, and protection for elbow joints, and is regularly used to treat and prevent elbow hygromas – fluid-filled swellings at the point of one or both elbows, which can arise as the result of trauma or even from a dog lying for long periods of time on hard surfaces. In that case, over time, the point of the elbow bone traumatizes the soft tissue, causing inflammation and leading to the formation of a fluid-filled sac. 

Carpet­­Saver Runners

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Standard Adjustable DogLeggs can also be used to help with a variety of other conditions, including elbow arthritis, decubital ulcers, pressure sores, and calluses, and a full length model for more coverage is available as well.

Consumers can measure their dogs themselves and order this product direct from the company; however, company spokesman John-Henry Gross believes that the best results are achieved when the client works with her dog’s veterinarian to measure and order the leggings. It’s also important to involve your veterinarian to be sure that what you’re looking at on your dog is a hygroma. Suggested retail: $108 (standard); $128 (full).

Hind-End Support

In our March issue, we talked about full body harnesses. In some cases, such as when a dog requires only hind-end assistance (i.e., post surgery), a full body harness might not be necessary. For those times, the Walkabout Back Harness (as seen on the facing page) is a great option. It’s made of a neoprene fabric with polypropylene webbing straps. It’s sturdy; has long, substantial handle straps (to save our backs!); and fits both male and female dogs.

To put the harness on, lay it flat on the floor and put the dog’s hind legs through two holes; the harness then wraps up over the dog’s back, closing with Velcro and buckles. I’ve had the chance to see the harness in action while being used to get a large dog (post-surgery, with two fractured hips) up and outside to eliminate, and it worked very well. While homemade works in some situations, I’ve seen firsthand that a product like this beats the old towel-under-the-belly, hands down. Suggested retail: $35 – $78.

Also in March, we mentioned one canine wheelchair, suggested by a veterinarian who specializes in canine rehab, as an example of the canine wheelchair-type products available. There are a number of other canine wheelchair makers, and each has products with unique features, benefits, and drawbacks. If your dog would benefit from a mobility cart, check out the offerings from the following companies to see what might work best for your dog, situation, and budget:

Doggon’ Wheels
888-7-DOGGON; doggon.com

Eddie’s Wheels
(888) 211-2700; eddieswheels.com

K9 Carts
(800) 578-6960; K9-carts.com

Healing Heat

Heat can offer our pets’ aching joints relief from pain, especially in cold, damp weather. The HipHug is a 100 percent cotton, rice-filled pad that you can heat in the microwave. What’s unique about the HipHug is that its cute bone shape is actually utilitarian: the way the pad is cut, it envelops and shapes to the dog’s hips and lower back nicely. The rice creates moist heat, easing joint pain and relaxing muscles.

Standard Adjustable DogLeggs

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As someone who spent this past winter getting up early to heat a pad to warm 14-year-old Jolie’s back and knees before her morning walk, I can attest that heat used properly can make a big difference in loosening up painful joints. Suggested retail: $13 – $25.
 
DogLeggs offers a similar product, the Buddy Bag, for hot or cold therapy.

How to Introduce New Equipment

Trainer and behaviorist Jean Donaldson posted a short video on YouTube of her Chow Chow, Buffy, gleefully accepting and wearing a stifle brace. In December 2010, then nine-year-old Buffy was diagnosed with a CCL (cranial cruciate ligament) tear. Donaldson chose to manage the injury conservatively, rather than subject Buffy to surgery, and opted for a stifle (knee) brace from OrthoPets. The brace helps prevent re-injury while the dog builds scar tissue and muscle around the injured knee.

In the video, Buffy was pretty happy to have Jean put on her brace. Donaldson spent time desensitizing Buffy to the brace before asking her to wear it. In fact, she first prepared Buffy for the casting procedure performed by Buffy’s veterinarian Anne Reed, DVM, which was required for fabrication of the brace. Dr. Reed was so impressed with Buffy’s cooperation during the casting that she asked Donaldson to write up a protocol for her to share with other brace clients. Donaldson graciously agreed to share it with us as well (see below).

After the casting, Donaldson prepared Buffy for the brace itself. Here’s how, in her words: “Show brace, then big pay-off (chicken). Touch leg with brace, then big pay-off. Hold brace against leg, then big pay-off. Add duration, paying off throughout. Add duration, pay off at end. Put brace on briefly, paying throughout. Put brace on, pay with intervals between installments. Put brace on, short walkies. Longer walkies.” She says it took only a few days for Buffy to willingly accept the brace but admits that the training she did for the casting likely sped up the process.

Buffy was rested for about eight weeks, then exposed to a gradual increase in length of walks and activity level, given supplements, and kept lean. Donaldson reports, “Buffy wears the brace for any activity where she might attempt a ‘sudden sprint.’  OrthoPets’ recommendation is for a dog to wear it for a maximum of eight hours a day.  Buffy’s not a bouncing-off-the-walls kind of dog, so indoors she doesn’t wear it.” The plan is to gradually reduce the time Buffy wears the brace. See the video, “I’m Too Sexy for My Brace,” at tinyurl.com/buffybrace.

Lisa Rodier shares her home in Georgia with her husband and senior Bouvier, Jolie.

5 Steps to Preventing Heat Stroke in Dogs

By
Nancy Kerns
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Dogs can suffer from heat stress in just a few short minutes, even when the temperature doesn’t seem that hot to us. How will you know if a dog is at risk for overheating? There is not an exact answer to this question; it depends on the dog and the situation.

Preventing Heat Stroke
If you’re lucky enough to have access to a safe, dog-friendly body of water, move your daily dog walk to that location during heat waves.

All dogs are at risk in extreme temperatures. But a dog who is accustomed to 90° weather may have less risk on a very hot day than a Seattle pup vacationing in the Arizona desert. Also, the air temperature is only one consideration; humidity, sun exposure (or lack of shade), amount of time in the heat, level of exertion, and availability of water can all affect how well a dog tolerates heat. Be alert for signs of heat distress, such as excessive panting or drooling, reddened gums, listlessness, or rapid heartbeat.

Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to help prevent your dog from getting so overheated that he suffers heat stress or heatstroke.

1. Avoid exposing your dog unduly to extraordinary heat.

Again, this is a relative recommendation; a dog who is acclimated to a fairly hot environment can tolerate more than a dog who is not. But when temperatures rise beyond what are average, give your dog greater respite from the heat. Leave him home! And if left at home, make sure he’s got ample methods for staying cool: shade; lots of fresh, cool water to drink; and perhaps the cooling breeze of a fan. If you must take him out, try to keep him out of the sun – and make sure he has constant access to cool drinking water.

2. Modify your dog’s exercise routine in hot weather.

Walk him after dark or before dawn. Find a pond, creek, or beach where dogs are safe and welcome, and incorporate swimming or water play into his usual game of fetch. During severe heat waves, he can forego any sort of rigorous exercise for a few days.

3. Get him wet.

Hose him down, put him in the tub, mist him with a spray bottle, or wipe his coat with a sopping wet towel. In a dry climate, the evaporation will help lower his body temperature; in a humid environment, you’ll need to get some extra air flowing over him for a wet coat to help him cool down. Ceiling fans are terrific; battery-powered fans that attach to your dog’s crate or x-pen work well, too.

4. Provide ample water.

Make sure your dog has lots of fresh, cool water – preferably from more than one source. Dogs always seem to drink more when they have options.

If you’re out with the dog, offer water frequently. Stop in a shady spot, and really encourage him to relax and drink. Some dogs get distracted by their environment and pass up the chance to drink in favor of gawking. Make it clear that you’re not going on until they take at least one quick drink.

5. Use an evaporative cooling vest,  coat, bandanna, or mat.

There is a wealth of products for keeping dogs cool on the market, available from many pet specialty store or online pet supply catalogs. Look for garments that are wetted and gradually release water through evaporation, such as the HyperKewl Evaporative Cooling Dog Coat by TechNiche International, winner of the “best new dog product” at SuperZoo 2010.  But in a pinch, even a plain cotton T-shirt or bandanna, wetted and worn by the dog, can help provide some evaporative cooling.

Preaching to the Choir

By
Nancy Kerns
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I had this thought on Tuesday, July 5, and I’ve been thinking about it on and off since then: Is any progress being made at all in the world of dog ownership?

This was prompted by my brief custody of two small stray dogs, the ones I found trotting down my street the morning after fireworks were going off all over town.

Assisting Stray Dogs

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Fortunately, Otto was with me in the yard as I watered our roses and azaleas, and the dogs came in my gate to greet him; I was able to close the gate behind them. They wouldn’t come to me at first; once they realized the gate was closed, they trotted up and down the fence line a few times, to confirm they were, in fact, trapped in my yard. They also raised their legs on every bush and fence post, allowing me to see that they were both males. Both dogs appeared to be American Eskimo Dog- or Pomeranian-mixes.

After 10 minutes or so of exploring the yard, the smaller one approached me, wagging his tail. I was able to feel underneath his thick coat to ascertain that while he was wearing a collar, there were no tags on it. His coat was matted and dirty. Then the larger dog came up to me. He, too, was matted and dirty. He did not have a collar on.

I called my local shelter, and the receptionist took my address and said she’d send an animal control officer to pick them up. When he arrived, he scanned both dogs; no microchips. He also determined that both males were intact. He was kind enough to call me later to tell me that he had found their owner; the dogs live about 10 blocks away, and had supposedly escaped the night before during the fireworks.  I say “supposedly,” because I saw the same two dogs trot by my house a few days later. When I went out my front door, they bolted in the direction of their home.

I just keep thinking: No ID, intact, matted, and free to wander (and be hit by a car).

And I think about WDJ’s readers: involved, concerned, educated owners, who surely have ID on their reasonably groomed dogs, who are, if not neutered, are at least minimally trained, well-socialized, and safely enclosed. In your letters and comments, I see ample evidence that there are many owners who are aware of the need to both vaccinate their dogs and limit those vaccinations; to train and socialize their dogs; and to provide more than the minimum of care.

I’ve been wondering: How can I help to reduce the “class” differences between dogs like the ones wandering my neighborhood and the ones owned by WDJ readers?

I’d love to hear about things you do to help educate, guide, and inspire owners to improve their dog care practices.   

(Puppy Basics #3) Puppy Basics – Keys to Bringing a Puppy Into Your Home

By
Nancy Kerns
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The key to bringing a puppy into your home is to think things through well before the big day.

Most people spend months preparing for the arrival of a new baby. They’re just as likely, however, to bring a baby dog home on a whim, without any preparation at all. Small wonder they find themselves playing catch-up for weeks, months, years, or even “getting rid of” the dog as they struggle to recover from the mistakes made in the pup’s formative months. The wise puppy-owner-to-be puts much thought into pre-puppy preparation.

Rules and routines are especially important if there’s more than one human in the house, to encourage consistency, an important element of successful puppy-raising. When your pup joins your family, she’ll experiment with different behaviors to try to figure out how the world works, and how to make good stuff happen – a dog’s main mission in life. The more consistent everyone is, the quicker she’ll figure it all out.

Your rules and routines will reflect your dog-raising and -training philosophies. Here are some issues for your family to discuss and agree on:

Where will your puppy sleep?

Will she be allowed on the furniture?

Where will she be during the day?

What games will she be allowed to play?

Who will feed her; when, and what?

Who will train her and how?

How will you correct her for making mistakes?

For more details and advice on pre-puppy preparation, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Puppy Basics.

Deja Vu

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

Why, oh why, does Consumer Reports even “go there”? I have the utmost respect for the magazine’s reviews of vacuums and DVRs and such, but pet food is beyond their ken. Yet they persist. In “Tame Your Pet Costs” in the August issue, its authors advise readers not to “pay a premium for ‘premium’ dog food.” They put the quotes on premium dog food, to indicate their apparent opinion that there is no such thing. Sigh.

Nancy Kerns

288

A quote: “Premium or otherwise, any food you see on supermarket and pet-store shelves that’s labeled ‘complete & balanced,’ ‘total nutrition,’ or ‘100 percent nutritious’ should meet the minimum standards for nutrition set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials. That indicates that it’s adequate for the vast majority of healthy pets.” The short article goes on to indicate that the best buy the authors found was Ol’ Roy at Walmart, “for just 34 cents per pound.”

Can you think of anything nutritious you can buy for 34 cents per pound? No; just sawdust comes to mind. Sprinkle on some fat from a vat of road kill and a vitamin/mineral mix of dubious origin and call it a day!

I just don’t know how anyone could regard a dog (carnivore) food whose ingredients list starts with  (as one example) turkey, chicken, and chicken meal as “just as good” as one that starts with corn, “meat and bone meal,” and soybean meal – even if the protein, fat, and vitamin levels in the two foods were equivalent.

“Bargain” prices are always an indication of cheap, low-quality ingredients. I will agree with Consumer Reports, however, that high prices may not necessarily correlate with high-quality ingredients; there certainly are plenty of high-priced foods competing in the “premium” niche whose ingredients don’t necessarily explain the price of the product.  So many factors go into pricing that you have to look past the price to the ingredients to determine the quality of a food. 

Allow me to rave positively about something else. Recently, two of our favorite behaviorists/authors, Patricia McConnell, PhD, and Karen London, PhD, published a great little book, Love Has No Age Limit: Welcoming an Adopted Dog into Your Home. They wanted to address a little-known problem having to do with dog adoptions: the fact that up to a third of dogs who get adopted in some areas end up being returned to the shelter. The goal of the book is to help guide folks with newly adopted dogs through the first few days, weeks, and months post-adoption – to avoid the most common mistakes that people make, and set up the dog and family for success.

Best of all, to make sure the book is affordable to cash-strapped animal welfare organizations, everyone involved with the book’s production agreed to discount the compensation for their work, so the book could be sold far below a typical retail price. Order it today from Dogwise for just $9.95; dogwise.com or (800) 776-2665.

Study Reveals Most Common Diseases in Dogs

By
Mary Straus
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Banfield Pet Hospital has issued a report analyzing the most common diseases in dogs and cats. The “State of Pet Health 2011 Report” collected data from 2.1 million dogs seen at Banfield’s 770 veterinary hospitals in 2010.

Flea Infestation Increases

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Some of the more interesting findings included increases in diabetes, dental disease, ear infections, and flea infestations since 2006. Hookworms and whipworms in dogs also increased during that time period.

Incidence of diabetes mellitus in dogs rose 32 percent since 2006, a startling finding. The number of dogs affected, however, is still low, with 17.5 cases per 10,000 dogs seen. Diabetes is associated with being overweight or obese, one of the top five diagnoses in adult dogs in 2010, which might help explain the increase. Diabetes is also more common in small breeds, whose popularity has risen considerably in the last 10 years, with Chihuahuas and Shih Tzus leading the way.

Heartworm disease is one of the three top health risks for pets in the Southern states, with the highest rate of infection found in Mississippi, where 6.7 percent of dogs tested were found to be infected. Heartworm disease was diagnosed in dogs in all 43 states in which Banfield has hospitals, and the American Heartworm Society reports dogs testing positive in all 50 states. Incidence of heartworm disease was similar in 2010 to 2006.

Dental disease is the most common health issue in dogs, affecting about three-quarters of all dogs over 3 years of age. Many dogs aged 1 to 3 years are affected as well. Dental disease can affect the heart and kidneys, and causes pain that is not readily apparent. There has been a 12.3 percent increase in dental disease in dogs since 2006. While tartar was the most common finding, periodontal disease grade 1 (of 4) made the top 10 list of diagnoses in all dogs, and grades 1 and 2 were both in the top 10 for small dogs. Older dogs have greater risk of developing more severe forms of dental disease. The top breeds most likely to develop periodontal disease include the Toy Poodle, Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese, Pomeranian, and Shetland Sheepdog. The best way to prevent dental disease in dogs is with daily brushing.

Otitis externa (infection or inflammation of the outer ear canal) was the second most common diagnosis in dogs, with a 9.4 percent increase since 2006. In 2010, 15.8 percent of dogs seen in Banfield hospitals were diagnosed with otitis externa. Recurrent ear infections are usually linked to allergies. Breeds that are predisposed to otitis externa include the Basset Hound, Beagle, Bulldog (American and English), Cocker Spaniel (American and English), Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Lhasa Apso, Poodle (all sizes), Pug, Shar-Pei, and English Springer Spaniel.

Incidence of flea infestation increased 16 percent in dogs since 2006. Tick infestations were also more prevalent, with a 6 percent rate of increase over the past five years. In addition, the number of dogs diagnosed with Lyme disease more than doubled since 2006. Fleas increase during spring and summer months before peaking in October, while ticks were most commonly found in May and June. Fleas are most prevalent in Southeastern states and along the West Coast.

Hookworm prevalence in dogs increased 30 percent and whipworms 8 percent over the last five years. Hookworms are most common in Southeastern states, while whipworms are more prevalent in Midwestern and Eastern states. Tapeworms were the most common parasite found in dogs.

Knowing which diseases are most common can help pet owners be proactive in protecting their pets through preventative care, such as keeping dogs lean; toothbrushing; using heartworm, flea, and tick preventatives as needed; and having a veterinary examination at least once a year.

– Mary Straus

For more information:

Banfield Pet Hospital State of Pet Health 2011 Report
tinyurl.com/banfield

Intelligent Refusal

By
Nancy Kerns
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dog with small kitten
Sometimes, if Otto was just resting quietly, the kittens would seem to forget he was a living thing, and run toward or even start to climb him. He's expressing his distress with a little tongue-flick, but, knowing he's not supposed to make any sudden moves around the kittens, he stays in one place. ©Nancy Kerns

Here’s a memory that just came up: A blog post from July 2011 – 12 years ago!

I’ve been having a nice dialogue with a reader who objected to my promotion of the word “cue” over “command.” He made some good points – but something Otto did the other day gave me ammunition for one more point in support of why I prefer “cue.”

Copying their mama, the last two of my foster kittens (now MY kittens) have developed a classic behavioral response to Otto (and every dog, to be fair to kind, patient Otto): they puff up, spit, growl, and flatten their ears every time they notice him in the room. Frankly, they are often so occupied with play that sometimes this “noticing” happens when they actually run into his sleeping body, but whatever.  I keep praising and rewarding Otto for his calm, gentle behavior around them, and for turning instantly away from them any time he starts looking too interested in joining their chasing games.

The other day, as a reward, I initiated a game with Otto and his current favorite toy: bunny-shaped stuffed animal with a squeaker inside. (It’s from Premier Pet Products, and it’s ingenious; the belly of the bunny contains a rubber cage that enables the squeaker to roll about, making its position unpredictable. Otto LOVES mouthing the bunny in search of the ever-elusive squeaker.) I said, “Where’s your toy?” This is the cue I use to ask Otto to go get a toy. Otto looked thoughtful about this for a moment (as he often does), and then I saw the light bulb go on (as it almost always does) and his expression brightened before he bounded out of my office to go find the bunny. I could see it; it was in the middle of the living room floor.  But just as he arrived at the toy, one of the kittens launched from out from under the couch, right onto the bunny (the kittens like it, too).

Okay, a dilemma. Otto was asked to do something; he also knows he’s not supposed to chase or harm the kittens. If he “obeyed” my “command” to get the toy, he’d surely get in trouble for being confrontational with the kitten. He had to use some judgment – and I want to develop and nurture that judgment. In the real world, I really don’t want a robot, who follows orders no matter what.

I can only imagine that service dogs are trained similarly. They must do what their owners ask, but sometimes, their owners ask them to do something they know is dangerous, like walk in front of a car that their blind and deaf owner doesn’t know is coming too fast. They have to understand that in some cases, a refusal is the right thing to do. In this case, the word “cue” really is more appropriate than “command.” I’d love to hear from service dog trainers about how they cultivate this trait, without creating a dog who “refuses” when it suits his needs, rather than his handler’s.

In this case, I’m proud that Otto knew to “disobey” me. He quickly stepped back from the spitting kitten, and looked at me, tail wagging, for further instructions. “Yes!” I applauded him, jumping up from my chair and skipping into the kitchen to get him something extra yummy from the fridge. “Good dog!” And when the coast was clear of kittens, he got another reward. “Otto! Where’s your toy?”

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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