The full length of this adult female's spay incision was tattooed, but some spay/neuter tattoos are not as long. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
Dogs who have been spayed or neutered may have a small tattoo on their abdomen, or “tummy.” Called a “sterilization indicator tattoo,” this short, straight line indicates that the dog has had his or her reproductive organs removed. Green is the most common tattoo color, and the most common placement is near or in the incision for male and female dogs. It’s mainly used in shelters and less so in private veterinary practices.
The tattoo idea was developed in 2010 to prevent unnecessary exploratory surgery when the spay/neuter status of a dog is unclear. In 2019, Dr. Meaghan Mielo, then an intern, surveyed shelters, spay/neuter clinics, veterinary colleges, and private veterinary practices about their awareness and use of sterilization tattoos in dogs and found that the tattoo was not routinely used. Her findings were published in the July 2022 edition of the peer-reviewed publication The Veterinary Journal. Dr. Mielo’s report recommended enhanced training for veterinarians to encourage the use of tattoos and protect animals from unnecessary procedures.
A Sterilization Tattoo on Dogs Is Important
The tattoo on this young male dog was applied to the incision used for his neutering surgery. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
While some spayed female dogs have a telltale surgical scar, it can be difficult to detect, forcing unnecessary exploratory surgery to determine her reproductive status. The tattoo, however, is easily seen, although hair may need to be shaved away on some dogs. However, some female dogs may still have their ovaries. Without a uterus, they are sterile, but the ovaries continue to secrete estrogen.
On a male, the lack of testicles would seem to be a clear indicator that the dog was neutered, it’s not that simple because:
A male dog may have a retained testicle (or two). In these cases, the scrotum appears empty, as if he had been castrated, but the testicle(s) may still be there, undescended and remaining in the dog’s abdomen. These dogs are generally infertile but still manufacture testosterone and develop secondary sexual characteristics like other intact males.
Dogs can also be sporting synthetic testicles (Neuticles), which make the dog appear to have testicles but doesn’t. These devices can be surgically implanted in place of a dog’s testicles during neuter surgery.
Male dogs may have had a vasectomy, so sperm can no longer be ejaculated, which may be done if the owner wants the dog to retain his testicles but be unable to impregnate a female dog.
Although no longer used, in another alternative sterilization procedure, called Zeutering, the ability of the testes to produce sperm was destroyed while retaining its ability to manufacture testosterone. (The manufacturer of Zeuterin stopped selling it in 2016.)
How Is the Dog’s Spay or Neuter Tattoo Applied?
In some cases, the tattoo ink is applied to a small, shallow incision made in the dog’s skin close to the site of their surgical incision. After the ink application, the skin is gently stretched and a tiny amount of glue is applied to the tattoo to prevent the ink from spreading. A video at the ASPCA website demonstrates that style of tattoo application. Other clinics prefer to apply the tattoo ink directly to a short section of the dog’s spay or neuter incision itself.
Natural ingredients such as aloe, honey, and vinegar can be useful
for treating your dog’s minor wounds at home. Credit: Ashley-Belle Burns | Getty Image
While serious injuries require medical attention, many common problems can be treated on the trail or at home with simple, inexpensive, do-it-yourself remedies. To be prepared, keep natural first-aid products or their ingredients on hand to treat wounds when they occur. If a wound is bleeding, press gauze, fabric, or a paper towel against the wound. Don’t rub or scrub the wound and don’t apply hydrogen peroxide or alcohol as they can cause additional pain, discomfort, or tissue damage. Contact your veterinarian at once if the wound is deep, might require stitches, is bleeding heavily, is located near the eye or on the face, or if your dog is in severe pain or discomfort.
What Not to Do
For generations, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide have been go-to remedies for minor wounds, but neither is your best choice for treating your dog’s cuts, burns, abrasions, and similar injuries. Rubbing alcohol, a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water, does kill germs but it actually slows rather than speeds healing. In a 2022 review of topical wound treatments, Ohio State Professor of Emergency Medicine Nicholas Kman, MD, explained that rubbing alcohol “can damage surrounding healthy tissue and shouldn’t be used to clean your wounds.” In 2007, the New York Times reviewed medical studies showing that hydrogen peroxide “has little ability to reduce bacteria in wounds and can actually inflame healthy skin cells that surround a cut or a scrape, increasing the amount of time wounds take to heal.”
First-aid Rinses
Because bacteria are everywhere, washing or rinsing the affected area can reduce the risk of infection. A simple wound-cleaning strategy is to pour a first-aid rinse over the wound from a cup, bowl, or water bottle, apply it with cotton balls, or apply it to the center of the wound with a syringe or turkey baster and add more rinse to the wound’s outer margins.
A plain water rinse removes dust, dirt, debris, and other contaminants from the wound’s surface, which reduces the risk of infection and promotes healing. Because water doesn’t contain harsh chemicals or additives, its gentle cleansing cools the wound and helps prevent irritation. The safest water to apply is sterile, meaning distilled water or tap water that has been heated to boiling and cooled. Blot moisture from around the wound and let it air dry.
A salt-water rinse has significant healing benefits, especially if you use unrefined salt, which contains minerals and trace elements. Natural markets carry several brands of unrefined sea salt, which draws moisture from bacterial cells through osmosis, which helps reduce the risk of infection. Calcium, magnesium, and other minerals promote rapid wound healing by providing essential nutrients to wounds, plus they reduce inflammation and skin irritation.
Yeas ago in my dog’s obedience class, a female German Shepherd Dog suffered from a sore that wouldn’t heal despite repeated trips to the veterinarian over several months. When her owner applied a solution of 2 tablespoons unrefined sea salt in 1/2 cup water, the sore improved that same day and healed within a week. That solution was more concentrated than most recommendations for wound rinsing, which are typically 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon of salt per cup of water, but nearly any salt-water solution will effectively clean wounds and speed their healing.
Herbal tea rinses made from skin-friendly herbs like chamomile, calendula, green tea, or lavender help reduce swelling, redness, and pain while inhibiting the growth of bacteria and other pathogens. To make an effective herbal rinse, place 6 teabags or 6 teaspoons (2 tablespoons) dried herbs in a 1-quart glass jar or ceramic tea pot. Fill the container with boiling water, close the lid, and let the tea stand until it cools to room temperature. Strain the tea before using. Most herbal teas stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to a week. For long-term storage, freeze herbal tea in ice cube trays, then keep the frozen cubes in labeled air-tight plastic freezer bags.
Willard Water Rinse: Willard Water, an antioxidant concentrate, can be added to water or herbal tea at the rate of 1 teaspoon per quart to help the liquid penetrate wounds and speed healing.
A vinegar rinse helps disinfect wounds while soothing the skin. Apple cider vinegar is often recommended as a wound rinse, but because it can stain white hair, use plain white distilled vinegar if your dog has a light-colored coat. In July 2022, the International Journal of Dermatology described vinegar’s proven antimicrobial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties. For dogs, dilute apple cider or white distilled vinegar with an equal amount of water before applying, or apply full-strength, then rinse after half an hour with plain water or an herbal tea.
An herbal vinegar rinse combines the skin-healing, anti-inflammatory properties of medicinal herbs with the antiseptic properties of vinegar. For an effective skin tonic, combine fresh or dried rosemary leaves, calendula blossoms, rose petals, juniper berries, lavender stalks or flowers, lemon peel, orange peel, sage, or chamomile blossoms in any combination in a glass jar, loosely filling it to about 1/3. If using fresh herbs, fill to about 1/2 of the jar. Fill the jar with raw (unpasteurized) organic apple cider vinegar. Seal the jar tightly, leave it in a warm place, and shake the jar every few days for a month. Then strain the rinse, add an equal amount of distilled or boiled and cooled water to dilute it, transfer the rinse to sterile glass jars, and store them in a cool, dark place. Note that dark herbs and apple cider vinegar will stain light or white coats.
All-purpose Soothing Wound Treatment
WDJ contributor Mary Straus creates her own canine wound cleanser by combining 1 part aloe vera juice or gel with 3 parts witch hazel. In a 2-ounce bottle, this would be 1 tablespoon aloe vera and 3 tablespoons witch hazel, to which she adds 2 drops of lavender essential oil. “I shake it up before using,” she says. “I’ve found that it soothes any itch and helps keep a dog’s mouth off any wound or abrasion.” She applies the blend with cotton balls and lets the mixture air dry. None of the wounds she has treated for the past 30 years has become infected.
Witch hazel is rich in tannins, which are naturally occurring compounds found in plants, seeds, bark, and leaves and which have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Look for witch hazel products with no added fragrance and which contain little or no alcohol, such as Thayers or Dickinson’s.
Apply an After-Rinse Treatment
While this step isn’t necessary if the wound is minor, it helps to be prepared if additional treatments, such as the following, are needed.
Honey
Manuka or any high-quality raw (unpasteurized) honey can be applied as an ointment for burns, cuts, and other wounds. Clinical trials of human patients show that the application of honey as a wound dressing rapidly clears infection, inflammation, swelling, pain, and odor while speeding the sloughing off of necrotic (dead skin) tissue and the growth of new skin cells. Honey remains moist, seals and protects wounds, absorbs pus, reduces scarring, and prevents wounds from sticking to bandages. Unlike most topical antiseptics, honey prevents microbial growth without causing tissue damage.
Manuka honey from Australia is well known because of its scientific testing, but all raw organic honeys have medicinal benefits. In 2021, the journal Open Life Sciences published an updated review of honey as a wound healer and found that it significantly improved the healing of burns, abrasions, scratches, and infected wounds.
To use, rinse a burn or other wound, then apply a thick layer of honey. For burns, apply every 10 minutes until the pain subsides, and follow with a light bandage. It may be necessary to clip hair from the treated area and use a cervical or Elizabethan collar to prevent the dog from licking the honey.
Over time, raw honey can crystalize, forming sharp points and solidifying so it’s impossible to pour. To return honey to its original state, place it in a bowl that you warm in hot water or gently heat the honey at low temperature on the stove (don’t use a microwave), then cool before applying.
Coconut Oil
Coconut oil’s medium-chain fatty acids fight harmful bacteria, viruses, yeasts, fungi, and parasites, making it an effective salve or dressing for cuts and wounds of every description. Its only downsides are that most dogs love the taste and want to lick it off, and at temperatures below 75o F, it’s solid. If the wound is where your dog can’t reach, keeping it moist with a small amount of coconut oil can be an excellent idea. To soften coconut oil that has turned hard, keep some in a small jar or bottle for easy warming.
Aromatherapy
Many essential oils have antibacterial or disinfecting properties. For safety when treating dogs, essential oils should be diluted with a carrier oil or other liquid base. According to Colorado aromatherapist Frances Fitzgerald Cleveland, the best carrier for canine cuts, burns, abrasions, and other wounds is organic cosmetic-grade aloe vera gel, which is both soothing and healing.
Here is a blend you can create without having to invest in the expensive essential oils Cleveland uses in her FrogWorks pet aromatherapy products. “Use a clean glass jar with a nice lid,” she recommends, “and combine 30 ml (2 tablespoons or 1 fluid ounce) organic cosmetic-grade aloe vera gel with 20 drops lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) essential oil. Stir to mix thoroughly, then dab a tiny amount onto the wound.” This recipe is simple, safe, affordable, effective, and uncomplicated, making it ideal for dog lovers to try.
Styptic powder is a familiar grooming product that stops the bleeding of nails that are too closely trimmed. The veterinary product BleedClot, from the makers of the human product BleedStop, is an easy-to-apply powder that goes beyond styptic powder by stopping the bleeding of small, large, shallow, and deep wounds on contact. Nonstinging, sterile, and hypoallergenic, BleedClot does not stain tissue and is safe for animals even if ingested. Its main ingredient, amylopectin, acts as a dehydrating “sponge” when applied, soaking up water and blood plasma. This product is recommended for any bleeding wound.
Do You Need a Bandage?
A bandage’s main advantage is that it helps keep a wound clean and protected from contamination. However, bandaging a dog’s wound may not be necessary. If in doubt, consult your veterinarian, who can advise you on bandaging techniques.
: We recommend buying food from independent pet supply stores whenever possible, as these owners and managers are often better educated about nutrition and can help you make buying decisions based on your dog’s needs. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
It’s getting increasingly difficult to neatly categorize and select the best non-kibble dry dog foods. Freeze-dried foods, which once seemed novel, are now quite common, either as stand-alone diets or as meal “toppers” or treats. There are also ever-more dog diets being made with dehydrated meats.
Obviously, we include dehydrated diets—which range from low-moisture, powdery or muesli-like products, to chewy, jerky-like products with moisture levels that are a bit higher (12% to 14%) than those seen in kibble (usually, 9% to 10%)—in the same review category as freeze-dried. After all, these products all have a high inclusion of raw meat and animal organs (such as heart, liver, kidneys, lungs, and tripe), and just a few other ingredients.
Today, though, we’re seeing a burgeoning number of diets that incorporate freeze-dried or dehydrated raw meats but that are made in truly innovative ways, resulting in some novel, niche-defying products. Some contain higher inclusions of carbohydrate sources than most freeze-dried diets; some even resemble kibble in appearance and texture! “Cold-pressing,” steaming, and air-drying processes have also become much more common methods for manufacturing foods that are as lightly processed as possible, leaving the vitamins and vital enzymes in the products minimally damaged or reduced.
Our Favorite Freeze Dried and Dehydrated Dog Foods
Things we like: In our experience, this product is universally accepted and easily digested by most dogs. Company says 98% of the product is comprised of meat, organs, and fresh ground bone; organic fruits and vegetables are also used. Taurine is added to all of Stella & Chewy’s products.
Things we like: Ingredients include grass fed beef and many organic foods. Primal uses no synthetic vitamins in its formulas, just whole food sources of required nutrients. Probiotics are included on the guaranteed analysis.
As we stated in the main article, this category of foods tends to be very high in protein and fat, making it difficult (but not impossible) to find one of these products for dogs who require a low-fat diet.
Things we like: This is a “human-grade” food, made with human-grade ingredients in a human-food manufacturing facility. Several of The Honest Kitchen’s foods, including this one, have had their nutritional adequacy proven via AAFCO feeding trials—a rare accomplishment in this category of products.
First 10 ingredients: Chicken, chicken hearts, chicken liver, chicken gizzards, yams, apples, kale, collards, fish bone meal, dried kelp.
Many of the least expensive products in this category are made by The Honest Kitchen, who makes our overall favorite product. How do they do it, while using only human-grade ingredients and manufacturing in human-food manufacturing plants? Perhaps it’s because they’ve been making these products for longer than just about any other company.
Things we like: This is a “human-grade” food, made with human-grade ingredients in a human-food manufacturing facility. Several of The Honest Kitchen’s foods, including this one, have had their nutritional adequacy proven via AAFCO feeding trials—a rare accomplishment in this category of products.
Shared Traits of Dried, Dehydrated, and Freeze-Dried Dog Foods
First, all of these products are made with relatively low-temperature, slow processes that remove moisture from fresh ingredients while protecting and preserving their nutrients. The removal of moisture not only creates shelf-stable products, but foods that are light and inexpensive to ship.
Shipping might be the only thing that is inexpensive about them, however. The pet food makers who compete in this category tend to use very high-quality ingredients; many of them contain human-grade meats (the legal term is “edible”) and organic produce. And both freeze-drying and dehydration are energy-intensive processes; these foods are not cheap to make, so they are not cheap to buy, either.
However, the makers of these products would hasten to tell you that due to the superior digestibility and high energy density of these products, the cost of using them to meet your dog’s nutritional requirements is comparable to—or even less than—the cost of feeding a fresh refrigerated, canned, or frozen raw diet.
All of these products contain mostly meat and other animal ingredients (including organs, ground bone, and plasma or blood products). Many of the companies claim that their products consist of 80% or more animal protein sources; some claim to contain as much as 95%! The resulting diets are highly digestible and highly palatable.
Also, most of the products that we are lumping together in this category have a very low carbohydrate inclusion. Remember, dogs don’t require carbs; they can live on fat and protein alone, as long as they get the vitamins and minerals they need.
But also keep in mind that if you don’t include carbs in a diet, only protein and fat remain, and that fat contains more than twice the calories as protein or carbohydrates. (Carbohydrates and protein both contain 4 calories per gram; fat contains 9 calories per gram!) Many of these products may contain more fat than is healthy for dogs who are overweight and/or sedentary, or who are intolerant of fat (such as dogs who are prone to pancreatitis).
Not All Companies Use a “Kill Step” on Their Raw Products
Many of the products in this category of dog foods contain meat that is technically raw; it’s never been exposed to temperatures that kill pathogenic bacteria, such as Salmonella,Listeria, and E. coli. In order to avoid the potential of one of these pathogens making a dog sick—or, importantly, any humans who serve the dog’s food or come into contact with his food bowls—some of these companies subject their products to a different sort of “kill step” to eliminate pathogenic bacteria. Note that dogs are better equipped than humans are to consume pathogenic bacteria without getting sick, and there are thousands of people who feed fresh, raw diets to their dogs without any incidents. However, if your dog, you, or anyone in your household is immune-suppressed, it would be smart to buy and feed products that have been treated with a kill step so they are more likely to be pathogen-free. The most commonly used kill step in this industry is the use of high pressure processing (HPP), which subjects the food to such high pressure (in a pressurized tank of water) that kills any pathogenic bacteria that may be present in the raw meat. (See “High Pressure Processing in Dog Food,” WDJ April 2015 for more information about the process.) Irradiation is another safe kill step available to pet food makers, but we didn’t find any company disclosing their use of irradiation. It seems that while irradiation is in wide use for human food—and where irradiated products must be labeled as such by law—the stigma of irradiation seems to be too great for pet food makers to risk admitting its use. Also, they don’t have to admit it; there is no law that requires that an irradiated pet food must be labeled as such. Some manufacturers, however, believe so strongly in the benefits of raw foods that they refuse to use a kill step, relying instead on the quality of their ingredients and their own food “hazard analysis and critical control points”(HACCP) plans to prevent selling contaminated products. We respect the right of owners to feed raw foods that have not undergone a kill step – as long as they are informed about the risks to which they are subjecting themselves and their dogs. We also recommend that you consider buying products from companies that utilize a “test and hold” program whereby finished products are tested for pathogens and not released for sale until results indicate the products are uncontaminated.
Selection Criteria for Dehydrated or Freeze-Dried Dog Foods
“Well,” you may be saying. “These foods sound like a nice addition to my dog’s diet—or a replacement for my dog’s current diet. How do I choose which ones might work best for me and my dog?” Here are some bullet points to consider when making your choices:
For most of us, price will be a consideration. The high cost of these foods might not matter if you have one or two very small dogs or one very precious larger dog, or if you’re wealthy. But I couldn’t afford to feed them all the time to my two large dogs!
That said, I love having some on hand to use as treats and food toppers (to boost nutrition and the palatability of their regular food). And when I’m fostering sickly shelter dogs, freeze-dried foods are my magic remedy; I’ve helped all sorts of sick puppies back from the brink with these high-quality diets. So, though I could not afford to feed them full time, I fit a certain amount of these products into my monthly dog-food budget. You have to do what works for you.
Ingredients that work for your dog. It should be obvious, but you have to check product labels to make sure that any prospective diet doesn’t contain ingredients that are problematic for your dog. Is he allergic to or intolerant of certain proteins? (Are you keeping a food calendar or journal of what you feed and how your dog looks and feels? That’s the best way to learn about and keep track of that.)
Fortunately, many of these diets are limited-ingredient, with single sources of animal proteins in each formula. It’s much easier to find foods with a small number of ingredients in this category than in kibbled products.
Appropriate protein and fat levels. Look at the guaranteed analysis of any product you are considering. These diets are high, high, high in protein and fat. They can be just the thing for thin, young, active dogs, sport dogs, working dogs, and pregnant or nursing dogs, but they are likely not a great idea for your couch potato Labrador or the Dachshund who gains weight from breathing.
Complete information about products on the company website; ease of contacting company. In our view, there is absolutely no excuse for a company to fail to inform consumers about the nutritional adequacy of its products. If you are in the nutrition business, provide basic nutrition information!
We actually cut a few companies who have been on our “Approved Foods” list in past years for lacking basic information about their products on their websites or labels such as “nutritional adequacy statements.” These statements tell consumers which criteria the food met in order to qualify as a “complete and balanced diet” for dogs, and, importantly, which dogs the food is intended for. Adult dogs only? Dogs of all life stages? What about large-breed puppies? This statement is the bare minimum—and companies that don’t display this information for each of their products shouldn’t even be considered, in our opinion.
We feel equally strongly about companies that make it difficult to reach them. A few don’t publish their phone numbers anywhere; we’re not fans of this (though we haven’t eliminated a company from our consideration for this alone—yet). Some do publish their numbers but don’t answer their phones or return calls left in voice mailboxes! One company we called recently had a full phone mailbox—for days!
Ease of purchasing. Some of these products can be found in chain pet supply stores and online retailers. Others are sold only in independent pet supply stores and some can be purchased by subscription and are direct-shipped. All of these methods have pros and cons.
Approved Freeze-Dried/Dehydrated Foods
If you’re ready to try some of these products, we’re giving you dozens of candidates to choose from. Whole Dog Journal’s 2024 List of Approved Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Dog Foods includes companies that make diets that meet our selection criteria, which can be abbreviated thusly: No unnamed meats or fats; only whole, lightly processed, “real food” ingredients; and no artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives.
You can access information about the companies on our list in two ways:
1. Subscribers can download a PDF that contains contact information for each company, as well as information about their offerings in this dog-food category: how many varieties they make for dogs of each “life stage” (adult maintenance or “all life stages”), and the range of protein and fat that their products contain. This information is important, because virtually all of the products in this category are high in protein and fat. It might be impossible to find an appropriate diet in this category for a dog who cannot tolerate high fat levels.
We’ve also given the first 10 ingredients of at least one variety that each company makes. In most cases, we chose a beef-based variety, so similar products could be compared side by side. If the company offers several lines of disparate products, we highlighted the ingredients of two or three products made by that company.
2. Subscribers can also use our searchable database to look at in-depth information about each product made by the companies on our “2024 List of Approved Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Dog Foods.” This information gives the full ingredient list of each product made by each approved company, as well as each product’s protein and fat content; whether its nutritional adequacy was proven by AAFCO’s “nutrient levels” requirement or a feeding trial; what “life stage” it’s formulated for (adults only or dogs of all ages, including whether it’s appropriate for large-breed puppies or not); whether it is grain-free or grain-inclusive; and whether it was made by freeze-drying, dehydrating, or some combination of the two. The searchable database also provides a link to a location where each product can be purchased. Note: Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase food through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.
The best part about the searchable database is that you can use various filters to find foods that do or do not contain certain ingredients or that contain more or less than a certain amount of protein and/or fat. You can sort the database by the names of the companies or by the price of the individual products, as you wish.
We’re excited about the possibilities of this searchable database, and hope you find it to be helpful for finding good foods for your dogs. Keeping your dog’s individual needs in mind, try some new products, switch frequently – and always watch your dog! Note the date that you start feeding any new food on a calendar and record your dog’s physical responses to the switch, good and bad. If you pay attention, he’ll let you know what works for him (and what doesn’t) with his appetite, energy, skin and coat, stool, and weight.
Many of these foods are sold directly by the manufacturer, some by subscription. A few of the largest and oldest companies’ products can be found in chain pet supply stores, but the majority of these foods are sold in independent pet supply stores that specialize in premium or “holistic” foods.
Check out Whole Dog Journal's latest list of approved freeze-dried or dehydrated dog food products. Did your dog's food make the list?
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In most of the stock photos of people brushing a dog’s teeth, the dog model has short hair—for a good reason! It’s hard to see whether you are actually making contact with the dog’s teeth when there is a lot of hair in the way. Photo credit, wckiw, Getty Images.
I know that we’re supposed to be the experts here—but I need some advice, preferably from those of you with longer-haired dogs.
As I told you a few weeks ago, my 2-year-old dog Boone recently broke two of his front teeth. When he had surgery to remove the broken-off roots of those teeth, he also had x-rays and a thorough dental examination—during which the veterinarian found a significant accumulation of dental tartar and resultant inflammation along Boone’s gum line. He even had periodontitis—a gum infection that damages the soft tissue around teeth—in a couple of spots. And he’s not even 3 years old!
A photo taken by my veterinarian just before Boone’s recent dental surgery and dental cleaning. That redness along the gum line, and particularly, the dark line along the base of the biggest molar in the photo, is a sign that he had an active gum infection, due to a buildup of plaque and tartar.
Until now, I’ve been pretty lucky; my dogs have mostly managed to get by with just one or two veterinary dental cleanings in their entire lifetimes, even though I (true confession time) have never been good about brushing their teeth. Otto, who nearly made it to 16 years of age, had a couple of dental cleanings when he was under anesthesia to have cracked or broken teeth removed, but he never developed gum disease. And Woody, at age 8, has never had a dental cleaning, and his teeth and gums look pretty good! But Boone’s teeth are already a disaster.
Well, isn’t bad luck; this is more like the norm. WDJ’s authors have previously cited a widely reported statistic: 80% of dogs over the age of 3 years have active dental disease. And the statistic has finally caught up with me. It’s clear that with Boone in particular, I can either start brushing his teeth frequently in order to support his dental health, or plan to spend thousands on fairly frequent veterinary cleaning during his lifetime.
So I’m trying, and Boone is actually more or less cooperating; he likes the taste of the toothpaste! But here’s my dilemma: He’s got such a fuzzy face, and sort of frilly lips, that it’s hard to clear all of that fur and those lips out of the way in order to see whether I’m actually scrubbing his teeth! Someone among you must have solved this problem; please share any tips you have!
Making the SDMA blood test part of your older dog’s wellness workup can help detec t developing kidney disease. Credit: Fat Camera | Getty Images
A telltale sign of early-stage kidney disease in dogs is increased thirst, which results in increased urination. You may be filling the water bowl more during the day because your dog is so thirsty. Of course, your dog is asking to go out more often or he is having accidents in the house. His urine may have a strong odor.
Sadly, with chronic renal failure, this change can be so gradual that owners don’t notice until it is far along. And that’s frustrating because some chronic kidney disease cases are simply a result of old age. In other words, the dog’s tissues are wearing out.
In addition to the increased drinking and peeing, your dog’s appetite may be off, and he may be losing weight. Some dogs will be nauseous. Bad breath is common, and his gums may be pale. If your veterinarian checks a urine sample, the results may reveal excess protein or even some blood.
Fortunately, the kidneys are remarkable organs and can keep your dog humming along until close to two-thirds of their function is lost. If kidney disease is caught early enough, medical treatment can often give these dogs years of reasonable life.
Early Detection of Kidney Failure
As with so many health problems in our dogs, the prognosis is better if kidney failure is detected early. While kidney disease can’t be reversed, the progress of the disease can be slowed, giving your dog extra lifetime with good quality. Doing an annual complete blood panel and urinalysis starting at 7 years of age is ideal.
As chronic renal failure progresses, your dog may become anemic and lethargic. The buildup of toxins can lead to neurologic signs. Acute kidney failure is worse, such as from ingesting a toxic substance. These dogs are dramatically sick as there is an abrupt loss of ability to filter out toxins and retain the electrolytes and fluid that are important for good health.
What Causes Kidney Disease
Kidney disease is common in dogs, and it has many causes, ranging from congenital defects that cause problems early on to a secondary ailment in senior dogs. It can be an acute episode from a toxin or a gradual decline in renal function.
Young puppies can suffer from congenital defects such as renal dysplasia and polycystic kidney disease. While these dogs can be managed, most have shortened lifespans.
Amyloidosis is another genetic kidney problem, often associated with Chinese Shar Peis. Puppies with early onset renal failure often drink and urinate excessively and may be difficult to house train. They are often noted as “failure to thrive,” lagging behind their littermates in growth and development.
Once we go beyond genetic defects (and some of those can show up clinically as late as 6 or 7 years of age), we are left with secondary kidney diseases. Toxins are high on the list for both acute kidney disease and chronic renal disease.
Acute poisoning, such as from acetaminophen (Tylenol), grapes and raisins, or ethylene glycol (antifreeze) can cause severe kidney disease, even fatalities. Immediate treatment can minimize damage, and some dogs recover completely. Toxic dogs are very sick dogs, however. You may notice vomiting, collapse, intense thirst, and seizures.
Infections can damage kidneys, sometimes irreversibly. As Lyme disease (a tickborne illness) has become more prevalent, veterinarians are watching for Lyme nephritis. The first sign is generally protein spillover into the urine. Any bacterial or viral infection that affects the kidneys may cause kidney failure.
What to Do If Your Dog Shows Signs of Kidney Disease
Like many diseases, kidney disease has “staging” protocols that recommend different treatments for each stage. The International Renal Interest Society has four stages for dogs in renal failure, using objective data from serum creatinine levels, plus looking at blood pressure and protein spills in the urine.
Depending on your dog’s stage, medical treatment will take into consideration hydration and nutrition first. Canned food, adding water to your dog’s meals, and eventually giving fluids subcutaneously can help to keep your dog hydrated.
From a dietary point of view, you want a diet with a lower protein amount—but still high quality for overall health—less dietary sodium and phosphorus, more B vitamins, more omega 3 fatty acids, and plenty of fiber. Several prescription diets that fit these parameters, or your veterinarian can guide you to sites that can provide custom balanced recipes for your dog, like Balance It.
Dialysis is rarely used for dogs with chronic kidney disease but can truly be a lifesaver for a dog with acute, toxic renal failure. In these cases, dialysis is generally done for a short period of time. Unfortunately, there are very few places, primarily veterinary colleges, that currently offer dialysis.
While kidney transplants are done with some frequency in cats, they have not been as successful in dogs. There must be a compatible donor (which you are then responsible for adopting) and follow-up care is extensive, requiring immunosuppressive drugs for the lifetime of your dog. Transplants have not been as successful in dogs as cats.
SDMA Senior Bloodwork
SDMA stands for symmetric dimethylarginine, which is an amino acid. This is used as a biomarker to evaluate kidney function in dogs and cats. This is one of the earliest and most sensitive tests for changes in renal function, showing increased levels with as little as 25% of kidney function being compromised. In addition, it is not as sensitive to some of the environmental factors that can influence tests for kidney health such as muscle mass and diet.
SDMA is now included in many senior pet blood panels, but if not, you should request it for your older dog. Test results over 14 micrograms/dl suggest renal problems developing, so further diagnostics will be recommended.
The bottom line: If caught early on, many dogs can have years of reasonable quality of life with a kidney problem. They will require consistent, and sometimes, comprehensive care, but they can be active and comfortable.
Periodontal disease is extremely common in dogs but can often be prevented with a good combination of at-home and veterinary dental care. Credit: Hillary Kladke | Getty Images
Most of us have or know a dog who has bad breath. Your face scrunches in disgust when they pant near your face or you are snuggling close on the couch. Veterinarians and veterinary technicians label that smell as “sewer mouth.” It is one of the signs of periodontal disease in dogs.
Periodontal disease is the inflammation and infection of the periodontium. The periodontium are the structures that support and surround the teeth. This includes the gingiva, cementum, periodontal ligament, and alveolar bone. Let’s examine the role of each structure in protecting and maintaining your dog’s oral health.
Each tooth has two parts—the crown and one or more roots. The crown is the part of the tooth you can see. Its role is to tear, chop, and grind food. The crown extends to just below the gumline. The roots anchor the tooth in the jaw and provide a blood and nerve supply to each tooth.
Each tooth root sits in a socket in the jaw. The socket is made of alveolar bone lined with a protective layer called cementum. The socket surrounds and supports each root. The root is attached to the cementum and alveolar bone by a periodontal ligament. Gingiva (also known as the gums) is the pink or pigmented fleshy tissue that covers the alveolar bone and the first part of the crown.
Infection and inflammation of these supporting structures leads to destruction of cementum and alveolar bone, loosening and destruction of the periodontal ligament, and gingival recession. Without the support of these structures, teeth become diseased, loose, and fall out.
What Causes Periodontal Disease in Dogs?
Periodontal disease begins with the accumulation of plaque on the crown of each tooth—both the part you can see and the part just below the gumline. Plaque is a combination of food particles, proteins and minerals in saliva, and bacteria that normally exist in the mouth. Think about that fuzzy feeling you get on the surface of your teeth if you haven’t brushed them in over a day—that’s plaque.
Plaque is initially soft and can be easily broken down and removed if the teeth are brushed. But left undisturbed, plaque continues to accumulate layer by layer on the teeth. Over time, minerals in saliva harden plaque and create calculus. Calculus is the hard, brown layer that you might see on your dog’s teeth.
Although calculus on the crown of the tooth looks awful, it’s the plaque and calculus under the gumline that starts the process of periodontal disease. Think about the last time you ate popcorn. Inevitably, the thin skin that covers a popcorn kernel gets stuck in your teeth, prompting you to perform an impromptu flossing. That kernel skin is actually getting stuck in the thin space between the crown of your tooth and the gingiva.
Plaque and calculus that accumulates in that thin space induces an inflammatory response in your dog’s mouth. Inflammation causes the gingiva to become red, irritated, and painful. This is gingivitis and is the first stage of periodontal disease.
Irritated and inflamed gingiva begins to break down and separate from the tooth and alveolar bone. This creates a space known as a periodontal pocket. Plaque and calculus move into this pocket, creating more inflammation. Destruction of alveolar bone and cementum begins, exposing each root under the gumline. The gums may bleed easily when touched. This is the second stage of periodontal disease.
As the periodontal pocket expands and fills with more plaque and calculus, more alveolar bone and cementum are destroyed. The strength of the periodontal ligament holding the tooth root in the socket is compromised and the tooth becomes loose. This is the third stage of periodontal disease.
The fourth and final stage of periodontal disease is characterized by greater than 50% alveolar bone loss around the roots. The tooth can now be easily moved in all directions within the socket.
All dogs are at risk for developing periodontal disease. Small and toy breed dogs are particularly predisposed to periodontal disease. Periodontal disease is more prevalent in dogs that have diabetes mellitus or hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease). Dogs with a malocclusion (misaligned teeth) or crowded teeth in a small mouth are particularly at risk for developing periodontal disease.
Treating Periodontal Disease
Early periodontal disease (stages 1 and 2) in dogs may be treated with a professional dental cleaning under general anesthesia. Removing the plaque and calculus that has accumulated under the gumline is essential to treating periodontal disease—the only way to safely accomplish this is when your dog is anesthetized. See the article “Dog Teeth Cleaning” for more information.
Treating moderate to advanced periodontal disease (stages 3 and 4) requires more advanced techniques to save the teeth. These advanced techniques include open root scaling and planing, gingival curettage, and installation of bone grafts and protective membranes. A board-certified veterinary dentist is the most qualified professional to complete these techniques.
Teeth affected by periodontal disease that cannot be saved will need to be extracted. Tooth extractions can be done by most general practitioners. Teeth that have become brittle, abscessed, or ankylosed in the socket by scar tissue may need to be extracted by a veterinary dentist.
Preventing Periodontal Disease in Dogs
The best way to prevent periodontal disease in dogs is with proper at-home dental care and annual comprehensive oral health assessment and treatment (also known as a dental cleaning or dental prophylaxis) performed by your dog’s veterinarian.
Brushing your dog’s teeth every day disrupts plaque as it forms on the teeth and prevents the formation of calculus. See the article “At-home Dental Care for Dogs” for more information on how to brush your dog’s teeth and promote good oral health at home.
Your dog should undergo a comprehensive oral health assessment and treatment once a year. This is a dental cleaning, visual examination of the teeth, probing of gingival pockets, and radiographic assessment of the tooth roots and alveolar bone. Gingivitis can be treated and reversed during this procedure before it progresses to more advanced stages of periodontal disease.
With proper at-home oral care and annual oral exams by your veterinarian, your dog’s oral health and life span can be improved. And that’s good news for us dog lovers that want to have as much time as possible with our canine best friends!
Unfortunately for some multi-pet households, dogs can be allergic to cat dander. Credit: chendongshan | Getty Images
Dogs can be allergic to a wide variety of environmental allergens including pollen from trees, weeds, and grasses. Other potential allergens include molds, dust and storage mites, insects, and dander from humans, birds, or other animals. This includes cat dander.
Symptoms of Cat Allergies in Dogs
Dogs that are allergic to cat dander may have symptoms of allergic conjunctivitis. These symptoms include redness of the inner eyelids and whites of the eyes, squinting, rubbing the eyes, and ocular discharge. Ocular discharge may be clear or white but may also be yellow or green.
Other symptoms of a cat dander allergy in dogs include itchy skin, coughing, sneezing, and runny discharge from the nose. Dogs with itchy skin will incessantly scratch and lick at their paws, face, ears, tailbase, and the underside of their body.
Dogs with a cat dander allergy are often allergic to other things in their environment. Your veterinarian may recommend allergy testing to determine which allergens are the most troublesome for your dog.
Treating Dog Allergy Symptoms
One aspect of treating a cat dander allergy and other environmental allergies is relieving the symptoms of the allergy. This may include antihistamines, eye drops for allergic conjunctivitis, and shampoo or other topicals to alleviate itchy skin.
The other part of treatment is modulating the immune system’s response to specific allergens. This may include medications—such as steroids, cyclosporine, Apoquel, or Cytopoint. This may also include allergy hyposensitization therapy—also known as allergy injections.
Additional Considerations
There are many other illnesses that can cause the same symptoms as allergic conjunctivitis. Your veterinarian will conduct a complete eye exam with an ophthalmoscope. She may recommend testing your dog’s tear production with a Schirmer tear test, determining your dog’s ocular pressures with a tonometry device, and staining the surface of your dog’s eyes with fluorescein to look for corneal ulcers.
With apropriate treatment, allergic conjunctivitis due to a cat dander allergy can be managed, leaving your dog with more comfortable eyes.
Cheatgrass awns can burrow into a dog’s skin, causing serious, potentially deadly injuries and infections. Credit: MoKa | Getty Images
Cheatgrass (Bromus tectorum) is well named. The invasive species—also known as downy brome—overwhelms native grass species, reducing wildlife habitat and livestock forage; increases the risk of wildfires in Western ecosystems; and is dangerous, even deadly, to dogs when its sharp, barbed seeds, called awns, enter the skin, typically through paws, ears and nose.
Cheatgrass usually appears early in the year soon after snow melts. It grows rapidly, producing a nodding head that droops with the weight of seeds. When they drop or are brushed against, they cling to socks and dog fur. Once trapped in a dog’s fur, there’s no place for the seed to go but in—and that’s when the trouble starts.
How Cheatgrass Harms Dogs
If they’re not removed, cheatgrass seeds burrow beneath skin, often entering at the toes or ears. They can also be inhaled into the nose or throat. They make their way through skin layers and can end up anywhere in the body: lungs, chest cavity, spinal column, eyes, muscles, and other areas. They can lodge in tissues and cause abscesses, inflammation, infections, and breathing difficulty from a buildup of fluid. Some dogs die if the problem isn’t discovered in time. In some cases, canine patients who died of peritonitis were later necropsied and found to have grass seeds in the abdominal cavity.
Most at risk are hunting, hiking, and farm or ranch dogs, who can encounter cheatgrass awns in grasslands, pine forests, and pastures. Seeds may be more likely to glom onto dogs with furnishings such spaniels, setters, and some retrievers. Doodles and other curly- or wire-coated dogs are also cheatgrass magnets.
Take your dog to the veterinarian if you can’t find any reason for violent headshaking or sneezing, ear scratching, or paw chewing. Development of a hematoma or abscess may be the least of your worries. Depending on where grass awns migrate, the extent of the infection or injury, and whether exploratory surgery or hospitalization is required, an encounter with cheatgrass can be an expensive proposition.
Signs that an awn may have migrated beneath skin or into tissues include little bubbly blisters between toes, unexplained gagging or coughing, increased respiratory rate or panting for no reason, bloody discharge from the nose, or excessive licking of a particular area. After sedation, your veterinarian can use a scope to examine ears, nose and throat and remove awns with long, narrow alligator forceps. Radiographs can indicate the presence of fluid in the chest cavity or lungs.
Bad Seeds
Other grasses with awns that can be harmful to dogs include Canada wild rye, foxtails, and needlegrasses:
Canada wild rye is often found in seed mixes because it produces ground cover quickly. Avoid purchasing seed mixes that contain it.
Many species of grass create seedpods that resemble fluffy foxtails, hence the name. Like cheatgrass awns, they can burrow beneath the skin. To find out more, see “Symptoms and Treatment of Foxtail Invasions in Dogs.”
Needlegrasses (members of the genus Stipa) produce barbed seeds that are difficult to remove once in a pet’s skin or tissues.
The website www.meanseeds.com was created by dog lovers to provide information on hazardous grass awns.
What To Do
Dealing with cheatgrass is an instance of an ounce of prevention being more than worth a pound of cure. Any time your dog has been outdoors where cheatgrass is present, do a thorough body check after you return home.
Grooming the entire body is key. Brush or comb fur thoroughly, getting down to the skin for a good look, especially if you have a double-coated breed. Keep hair trimmed, especially on paws, so cheatgrass awns are less likely to become trapped in it. You may also consider having your dog wear booties in cheatgrass areas.
Push gently up beneath paw pads to cause toes to spread out so you can check between them more easily. To remove any cheatgrass you find in your dog’s paw, take a pair of needle nose pliers that you’ve sterilized with boiling water or by soaking in isopropyl alcohol for 60 seconds. Grasp the feathery end of the cheat grass—think grabbing a badminton birdie by the flared end—and pull to remove. Do this only if you can see the feathery end; otherwise take your dog to the veterinarian. Do NOT use this technique to remove awns in the nose or ears or any that have already penetrated the skin; you could injure your dog further.
Know what cheatgrass looks like and avoid areas with it when possible. Go elsewhere when the plants are noticeably reddish and dry, usually early summer and into fall. This is when seeds are more easily dislodged and become embedded in fur or skin.
Cheatgrass Killer 101
Environmental groups, government agencies, farmers and ranchers, hunters and dog lovers are all interested in eradicating cheatgrass. On your own land, nontoxic, low-tech methods are hand-pulling, hoeing, or weed-whacking it early in the season before it matures and produces seed. Shallow, short, branching roots make it easy to pull. Bag plants and toss them in the trash so they don’t have a chance to germinate elsewhere. If you have goats, sheep, or horses, intensive grazing from late fall through mid-May is a good form of biological control. Find out if your county or state has programs to help fight cheatgrass.
Rototill the soil and plant native grasses and plants such as sagebrush species or bluebunch wheatgrass, choosing a beardless variety without awns. It will take a few years to see results, but your efforts can make a big difference.
: If you suspect your dog may have had a stroke, it is important to seek veterinary care right away. Credit: Anita Kot | Getty Images
At one time, strokes and mini-strokes were thought to only occur in people. When I was in veterinary college, I was taught that strokes almost never occur in our small animal patients. But with the increased use of magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) in veterinary medicine, we are finding out that strokes and mini-strokes in dogs are not impossible.
Thankfully, strokes (also known as cerebrovascular accidents, or CVAs) and mini-strokes (also known transient ischemic attacks, or TIAs) remain rare in our canine companions. CVAs and TIAs tend to happen in middle-aged to older dogs, although younger dogs with certain underlying conditions may be at increased risk. Strokes are seen more often in Greyhounds, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and Miniature Schnauzers.
What is a Stroke?
A stroke is an acute onset of one or more neurologic symptoms. It is caused by an interruption of blood flow to a particular section of the brain. This blood flow interruption could be partial or complete. A TIA is partial interruption of blood flow to a section of the brain. A CVA is the complete interruption of blood flow to a section of the brain.
A TIA is like the dimmer switch for a light. When you turn down the dimmer switch, you are reducing the amount of electricity reaching the light. The result is a light that still works but is not as bright as it would be if the dimmer switch was turned all the way up. A clot (also known as a thrombus) is like the dimmer switch. In a TIA, a thrombus partially occludes a blood vessel and reduces the amount of blood flowing to that section of the brain. The functions performed by that section of the brain are temporarily slowed and impaired.
Most dogs recover from a TIA within 24 hours. Dogs may continue to have TIAs in the future unless the underlying cause can be found and treated. TIAs may serve as a precursor to a CVA.
A CVA is like a clogged sink drain. When a drain is clogged, no water can get through the pipe. In a CVA, a thrombus completely occludes a blood vessel in the brain. The section of the brain served by that blood vessel quickly dies and then gradually swells. The swelling begins to subside after one to three days.
Another type of CVA is caused by a ruptured blood vessel. This is like a water main break. A break in a water main under the street results in a sudden rush of water from the pipe. The foundation under the street swells with water and causes the overlying pavement to collapse, flooding the street. A ruptured blood vessel in the brain is like that water main break. The brain tissue surrounding the ruptured blood vessel swells with blood and quickly dies.
Dogs that experience a CVA will have an acute onset of neurologic signs that gradually become worse over one to three days. After the swelling of the affected brain section subsides, most of these dogs show some improvement but may not make a complete recovery.
Causes of Strokes
Causes of strokes and mini-strokes can be divided into four categories: diseases that cause high blood pressure (also known as hypertension), diseases that cause clots or high amounts of lipids in the blood, and diseases that cause uncontrolled bleeding. The fourth category is idiopathic, meaning that the cause of a stroke cannot be found.
Hypertension can be seen in dogs that have chronic kidney disease or heart disease. Certain adrenal gland diseases—such as hyperaldosteronism and an adrenal gland tumor called a pheochromocytoma—can cause hypertension in dogs. Sometimes hypertension in dogs has no identifiable cause—this is called idiopathic hypertension. Hypertension can cause a blood vessel in the brain to rupture, resulting in a CVA.
The release of blood clots in the bloodstream can cause a TIA or a CVA. Heart disease, cancer, heartworm disease, infections of the brain, and sepsis are all diseases that can cause a thrombus to form. A condition called hyperlipidemia can cause a phenomenon similar to a thrombus. Diabetes mellitus, hypothyroidism, and hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease) are all associated with hyperlipidemia.
Spontaneous bleeding in the brain can cause a CVA. Brain tumors and head trauma can cause sudden brain hemorrhage. Immune-mediated thrombocytopenia is a condition in which there are not enough platelets to prevent spontaneous hemorrhage. Congenital clotting disorders, sepsis, and ingestion of an anti-coagulant rodenticide can also cause bleeding in the brain.
Diagnosis of a Stroke
If your veterinarian suspects that your dog may have had a stroke or a mini-stroke, she may recommend an MRI of your dog’s brain. This will allow your veterinarian to see if there is an occluded blood vessel or an area of brain hemorrhage. The cause of the stroke may also be visible on MRI, such as a brain tumor or congenital brain abnormality.
A sample of cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) may be obtained at the time your dog is undergoing an MRI. CSF can be analyzed for the presence of infection or inflammation—this can help to identify the underlying cause of a stroke.
Your veterinarian may also recommend bloodwork, including a complete blood count, chemistry panel, thyroid panel, coagulation panel, and heartworm test. Radiographs (x-rays) of your dog’s chest and abdomen may also be recommended. These tests can help identify the cause of your dog’s stroke.
Stroke Treatment
There is no specific treatment for strokes in dogs. Thrombolytic drugs (also known as clot-busting drugs) that are used in people have not been well-studied in dogs. Anecdotal reports of the use of thrombolytic drugs in dogs have identified serious side effects, including death. Thrombolytic drugs are only appropriate for strokes caused by a blood clot and may not be indicated for all dogs that have experienced a stroke.
Therapy for dogs that have experienced a stroke is aimed at maintaining proper blood flow to all parts of the brain, not just the part affected by a stroke. Therapy may include drugs to reduce pressure on and swelling within the brain, oxygen therapy, and drugs to normalize blood pressure. Identifying and treating the underlying cause of a stroke will minimize the risk of experiencing additional strokes.
Dogs that have lost functional use of their limbs may benefit from physical therapy. Physical therapy includes passive range-of-motion exercises, hydrotherapy, exercises to strengthen balance and coordination, and laser therapy. Many veterinary practices offer physical and rehabilitative services for dogs. Ask your veterinarian about what services they offer or inquire about referral to a practice that offers physical therapy.
Your dog’s ability to recover from a stroke will depend on the location and severity of the stroke, the underlying condition that caused the stroke, and your dog’s overall health. Some dogs may make a complete recovery while others may have a greatly diminished quality of life. You will need to work closely with your dog’s veterinary care team to determine the best treatment plan for you and your dog.
Everyone loves a playful puppy, but you should regulate your puppy’s exercise, so he doesn’t overdo it. Elbow dysplasia is an inherited developmental disease of the joint. Credit: Brighton Dog Photography | Getty Images
Your 6-month-old puppy is off on his left front leg. He seems to worsen with activity, but he is rarely three-legged lame. This may be a sign of dysplastic elbow, or “elbow dyspasia.” (Dysplasia means a developmental abnormality.) Elbow dysplasia is second to osteoarthritis as the most common lameness in dogs.
Elbow dysplasia results from a defect during the final development of the elbow joint in a puppy. The elbow is a complicated joint, involving the meshing of three bones: the humerus (big bone coming down from the shoulder) and the radius and ulna (two smaller bones that make up the forearm). Any change from normal in how these bones meet to form the elbow joint can lead to arthritic changes and corresponding lameness.
Can you prevent elbow dysplasia? Certainly, you can reduce the risk in an individual dog by only breeding, or purchasing from, parents with normal elbows per OFA report. Note: Some breed clubs consider Grade I to be basically the same as Normal, but others recommend only breeding dogs with a Normal rating. Selecting parents with normal elbows can reduce the incidence of elbow dysplasia in a breed over time. Keep in mind that this is thought to be a multifactorial problem, so it is not a simple fix. Diet, environment, and genetics are all interacting. In addition, it helps to:
-Keep your young growing dog at a good weight.
-Use an appropriate diet for your growing puppy.
-Regulate exercise for your growing dog. Limit jumping up and down, pounding on hard surfaces, etc. until your dog is fully developed.
-Discuss when to spay or neuter your dog with your veterinarian.
In most cases, when only DJD is marked on an OFA report (see sidebar), it can be assumed that lesions associated with coronoid process disease are present. This accounts for most elbow dysplasia cases.
What Is the OFA?
Elbow dysplasia is seen in a wide range of dogs, affecting over 79 breeds according to Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) statistics. The OFA screens dogs for inherited health conditions to help breeders improve genetic health within dog breeds. It is voluntary screening, done with an examination and forms from your own veterinarian who submits the results to the OFA, which then issues a certification score. The statistics can help breeders make better breeding choices to avoid inherited disease. Dogs do not have to be purebred to be part of the OFA and get screened.
The breeds with the highest rate of elbow dysplasia according to OFA statistics are the Chow and Bulldog. Interestingly, Beagles and Pyrenean Shepherds have no recorded cases of elbow dysplasia.
OFA Grades the Joint
If the joint isn’t normal, OFA grades it as the level of changes in the joint. The classifications for elbows are:
Grade I Elbow Dysplasia:Minimal bone change along anconeal process of ulna (less than 2mm).
Grade II Elbow Dysplasia: Additional bone proliferation along anconeal process (2-5 mm) and subchondral bone changes (trochlear notch sclerosis).
Grade III Elbow Dysplasia: Well-developed degenerative joint disease with bone proliferation along anconeal process being greater than 5 mm.
These grades are based on the amount of degenerative joint disease noted on radiographs. The bony degenerative changes are the result of joint defects. It is recommended to do elbow evaluations at 2 years of age. Over time, normal wear and tear on your dog’s elbow joints may lead to some bony arthritis changes, obscuring any genetic developmental problems.
Severe elbow dysplasia can be debilitating, but dogs with mild dysplasia may not show any lameness until later in life. Male dogs are more frequently affected. Both overweight and very active dogs are at risk for joint damage. Estimates of 30% to 80% of dogs will be affected bilaterally, which makes a diagnosis tricky. These dogs may not show the typical head bobbing we commonly associate with front-leg lameness but instead have an overall shortened stride and decreased range of motion. Both legs will show pain upon manipulation. If your dog is lame on one front leg, it is always wise to radiograph the other leg as well in case it is also affected.
With severe elbow dysplasia, the dog may have a swollen front leg at the elbow joint. Bony changes can lead to an almost fused joint, which will feel firm on palpation. In early stages, there may be warmth, fluid buildup, and inflammation, but this will change over time.
Diagnosis of Elbow Dysplasia
Diagnosis starts with a lameness exam, including flexing and extending the elbow joint as well as watching your dog move. Your veterinarian will likely recommend X-rays of the elbow joint. For OFA evaluation, an extreme flexed-joint X-ray view is required, but your veterinarian may take other views as well to determine the extent of the problem. If there is a question about the diagnosis, a CT scan or arthroscopy may be recommended, along with referral a board-certified veterinary surgeon.
Medical treatment can make your dog comfortable, but it won’t really slow down the progression of arthritis. Medical therapy may include painkillers, joint supplements, and rehabilitation plans to strengthen muscles and minimize strain on the joint.
What to Expect With Surgery
Surgery is generally recommended for the best prognosis for quality of life for your dog. The exact surgery done will vary depending on the exact defect.
Any bony or cartilage fragments will need to be removed. This can be done arthroscopically in many cases. If the joint needs to be realigned, more extensive surgery is required.
In rare cases, total elbow replacement may be suggested. There are limited facilities prepared to do replacement surgery, and elbow replacement is associated with potential complications. These include:
Infections of the surgery site
Instability of the prosthesis
Fractures around the prosthesis site
These complications tend to occur early on post operatively, with a rate of 15% complications in the first year. On the positive side, 75% or more dogs who have had elbow replacements are considered successful with a great decrease in pain and ability to resume normal, or near normal, activities.
Postoperative care and rehabilitation are important for elbow dysplasia cases. Your veterinarian will provide you with a full plan, starting with limited activity for healing to take place, and then exercises to gradually build back muscles.
The American College of Veterinary Surgeons emphasizes that surgery is not a cure, stating: “Once arthritis is established it will slowly progress regardless of any treatment. On average, with treatment 85% of cases will show some degree of improvement in lameness and comfort despite progression of arthritis on X-rays. The aim of treatment is to slow the progression of arthritis and prolong the patients’ use of the elbow. Unfortunately elbow dysplasia cannot be cured but it can be well managed, and our patients can have a good long-term prognosis and outcome with a combination of surgical and medical management.”
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STOP! Don’t do it! Whether the idea of adopting two puppies just occurred to you, or you had been planning to adopt two all along, every trainer I’ve ever met would advise you to think twice and adopt just one. Because training and socializing littermates well is more than twice as difficult as training and socializing one puppy.
