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Corticosteroids: Lifesaver or Killer?

By
Nancy Kerns
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There are almost as many opinions among veterinarians concerning the use of corticosteroids as there are veterinarians. Some feel that these drugs – prednisone, prednisolone, methylprednisolone, and dexamethasone foremost among them – are invaluable to every dog who itches; some feel that corticosteroids ought to be used only as a last resort, and only for short periods and in small amounts. Still others regard them as verboten. Why are these drugs so controversial?

Corticosteroids, also known as glucocorticoids, are used mainly for their anti-inflammatory and immunosuppressive effects. They have been modeled on the substances manufactured by the adrenal cortex, and can be administered in an injectable, oral, or topical form. These are powerful drugs that exert amazing effects on pruritic dogs – sometimes overwhelmingly positive, and sometimes negative. They can halt inflammation and itchiness within just a day or two.

However, due to their immunosuppressive action (which is responsible for quieting the hypersensitive response of the immune system), they can also leave a dog vulnerable to infections and can cause a host of other metabolic imbalances. “This is especially problematic in allergic patients, as their immune systems tend to already be weak,” says Dr. Lisa Pesch, a holistic veterinarian and owner of Animal Arts Healing Center in Sebastopol, California. “It’s important not to confuse a hypersensitive immune system with a strong one.”

Corticosteroids also affect water and electrolyte balance (making many dogs excessively thirsty, and thus, excessively in need of “going outside”); they can cause extracellular fluid retention (some dogs will take on a puffy appearance); and they often increase the dog’s appetite (and without owner awareness of the potential for problems, resultant gain of unhealthy pounds).

Most seriously, long-term use of these drugs can lead to increased incidence of infections due to immune suppression, liver disease, hair loss, skin problems, diabetes mellitus, and adrenal suppression. Every other day usage can help to minimize these effects.

Some veterinarians take a laissez faire stance on steroids, and prescribe them freely in cases of severe allergy. Others prescribe the drugs minimally.

Still others base their decision on their appraisal of the owner; faced with owners who fail to understand or embrace an intensive, multi-pronged treatment and management plan for their itchy dog, they will prescribe the drugs in order to stop the dog’s itching and increase his quality of life, at least in the short term. But given a motivated, educated owner who is willing to go to any lengths to help their dog get better, these vets will recommend a minimal reliance  on steroids, and work with the owners to find alternatives.

In her web-based consulting practice, veterinary internal medicine specialist Dr. Donna Spector offers second opinions, analysis, and oversight to pet owners and their veterinarians. When she’s consulted on a case of a dog with allergies, she bases her assessment on the ‘three strikes and you’re out’ rule. “If you’ve had your dog in the vet’s office three or four times, and you’ve come home with the same packet of antibiotics and steroids each time, and no other suggestions have been made regarding better environmental management or immunotherapy – to me, there is more we can do.”

It makes sense to regard these drugs as “heavy artillery,” even if your own veterinarian is casual about prescribing them on an initial visit. Ideally, veterinarians would advise using them as a last resort and just for a short time (two weeks or so), to help halt the itch/scratch cycle plaguing a severely pruritic dog. This, in turn, can give his skin time to heal, and other therapies time to begin working.

Spring Allergy Season Can Spell Trouble for Our Dogs, Too

By
Nancy Kerns
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I was beginning to think that it was the mere fact that I researched and wrote a long article about canine allergies for the April issue of Whole Dog Journal that made my dog Otto start itching. But the fact is, a quick glance at my calendar (where I note anything unusual about Otto’s health or behavior) reveals that I first noticed Otto licking and scratching himself on March 7 – and weather.com confirms that the pollen count in my area jumped from “low” to “moderate” around March 4.

The most common symptom of any allergy in dogs is itching. An allergy to flea bites is the most common type of allergy in dogs, but an allergy to something in the dog’s environment, such as pollen, dust, or exposure to dust mites (actually, the feces of dust mites), is the second-most common allergy. Food allergies are a distant third.

Look for a ton of information about canine allergies in the April issue. Keep an eye peeled for an increase in your dog’s licking, chewing, and scratching as the pollen counts rise in your part of the country. And, if you’ve observed signs of allergy, let the rest of us know where you and your dogs are located – and what you’re doing to try to keep your itchy dog comfortable.

(Socializing Your Puppy or Dog #1) Socializing Your Puppy or Dog: Making a Lifelong Difference

By
Nancy Kerns
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You’d better get out there and get started!  There’s no such thing as overkill when it comes to properly done socialization. You can’t do too much. Pups who are super-socialized tend to assume that new things they meet later in life are safe and good until proven otherwise.

Dogs who are very well-socialized as pups are least likely to develop aggressive behaviors in their lifetimes. Pups who aren’t well-socialized tend to be suspicious and fearful of new things they meet throughout their lives, and are most likely to eventually bite someone.

If your pup comes to you from a socially impoverished environment, you’ll already see the signs of neophobia. You have no time to lose, and you may never be able to make up all the ground he’s lost, but you can make him better than he’d be otherwise.

  • Trainers talk about giving pups “100 new (positive) exposures in the first 100 days.” If your pup is already showing signs of timidity or fear, triple that to 300 exposures in 100 days. And get busy!

Please, Don’t Bring Home the Wrong Dog!

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

So, dog lovers, has this happened to you? You have a friend or relative who has been dogless for some time, by choice or situation or because they’ve been grieving the loss of their last dog. For some reason — the planets have realigned, they finally own their own home, they just got reduced to a part-time job, whatever – they have decided that they are now ready to get a dog, and they want one, and they know just what they want. They want a male Poodle or Bichon-mix because they have allergies, and it has to be friendly. Or they want a little dog, but good with kids and not a Chihuahua not matter what because they know several and don’t like them.

Despite the fact that you’ve promised to find them the perfect dog, one that meets their every wish in a dog, if they would only give you a bit of time, the next thing you hear is:

“Hey, we got our dog! We just couldn’t wait, and we went to the shelter to look, and we got this dog, she’s great, she’s so sweet, she’s a Cocker Spaniel-mix!” 

Or

“We adopted a dog! It turns out, he IS a Chihuahua-mix, but he’s so CUTE! And he’s been so great with the kids.”

And then the very NEXT development is that the Cocker is making both of them ill with allergies and she also bit the mailman when he tried to pet her. And the Chihuahua is adorable with the kids but how do they stop him from barking all day he’s driving them crazy!

How do you convince people to be patient and selective and wait for a dog who meets their criteria, instead of rushing in and adopting the first cute face in the shelter they see? A face that brings a body or temperament or coat that is all wrong for them, that is going to make that dog’s very existence in their home a challenge for all of them? I’m frustrated today, because I have two friends looking for a dog RIGHT NOW and they keep sending me photos from Petfinder of dogs that meet NONE of their stated requirements in a dog, and I foresee two more disasters in the works. And it might take a few weeks or even months, but I know in the very busy shelter where I volunteer, a dog who meets their every wish will be coming through those kennels, if they would just be PATIENT! And I don’t think they will!

Am I being hysterical? Should I just relax and let them discover the joys of the unexpected? Or is this a legitimate reason to gripe?

A Pet Owner’s Worst Nightmare: Fire

By
Nancy Kerns
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I’m dog-sitting Chaco, the last little foster dog I found a home for. I got a call from her new owner the other morning. Chris asked how I was, and then asked if I could possibly dog-sit Chaco for a few days or perhaps longer. “Of course!” I replied, “What’s up?” Her voice broke as she answered, “My house burned down yesterday!”

“Oh my goodness! Where are you? Are you alright?” I asked. She said she was okay, and explained that she had actually been out for a walk with her boyfriend and both of her dogs when she got a call from her mother. Her mom said, “Honey?  I got a call from your neighbor; she said your house is on fire and the fire department is there!”

I told Chris I’d be right over, and jumped into the car. I was at her house in five minutes. At first glance, the house looked alright . . . until I saw the holes chopped into the roof by the fire department. Approaching the house, I saw piles of charred and sodden insulation, and smelled the acrid odor of a house fire. I pushed open the door, and oh my. The entire interior of the house was dripping wet, smelled smoky, and was covered with soot and burned insulation. Most of the frame of the house was intact, except for those holes in the roof and one spot on one wall. But it is completely uninhabitable due to the water and smoke damage.

Amazingly, both of the cats were okay; they had a pet door and evidently used it to escape. That’s kind of a miracle; often, cats try to hide from the heat and smoke of a fire by going under a bed or into a closet. The firefighters captured one kitty in the yard; the other one came out of hiding from goodness knows where in the middle of the night, after all the strangers were gone and my friends were still picking through the mess for clothes and photos and anything salvageable.

My friends will be okay; they have family and friends and places to stay and to help with the pets — and they have insurance! My dog Otto and Chaco were thrilled to see each other again, and immediately started chasing each other around my yard. Chris is grateful that no one was hurt – and that the fire didn’t break out at night when they were all sleeping (the fire fighters said it looked like it originated with some wiring in the attic). She had crates for each of her animals, and they (the dogs anyway) are habituated to and comfortable in the crates in the car. Also, all of her animals were wearing ID. That’s the start of a great emergency plan.

I just can’t stop thinking about what would happen if a fire broke out at my house and my dog and cat were trapped inside. I’m not sure I can think of anything scarier. All the animals, especially little Chaco, a foster dog once again for a few days, get extra hugs tonight.

(The Finer Points to Home- Prepared Dog Food Diets #2) Facts on Fish

By
Nancy Kerns
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Many people worry about the amount of salt in canned fish. It is true that canned fish is salty, but dogs require a certain amount of salt, and a homemade diet is naturally low in salt, so the amount in canned fish that is fed once or twice a week should not be a concern. If your dog suffers from heart disease or needs a low-sodium diet for some other reason, you can rinse the fish to remove most of the salt.

Rescue Hoarding

By
Nancy Kerns
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About a year ago, I became acutely aware of the fact that there are increasing numbers of animal “rescue” organizations that are doing anything but “rescuing” animals. I’m not talking about real rescue operations, where animals are well cared-for, the facility does not take on more animals than it can support in a healthy fashion, and the organization has a well-established and successful method of finding permanent homes for its charges. I’m talking about the places that end up in the newspaper, the ones that have spun out of control with too many animals, not enough money or caregivers, where the animals are found to be reproducing, sick, or dead. 

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Some of these fake rescues blatantly use homeless or unwanted animals to beg for money – supposedly used to support the animals, but mostly used to support the “rescue” operators. Others may have started as an honest attempt to help animals, but somehow developed into a nightmare/fantasy of an animal hoarder.

I’d read news articles about this phenomenon, but I never saw the grim results of such an operation until 100-plus dogs from one were brought into my local shelter, the one where I volunteer in the kennels and on the Board of Directors. With a single exception (an emaciated St. Bernard), all the dogs seized from a local “rescue” were all small dogs. (This didn’t make sense to me until our Executive Director explained that small dogs are the easiest to place and cost the least to feed – handy if you’re profiting on the “adoption fee” charged for the dogs.)

Almost all of the dogs were thin; some were skin and bones. They were starving – which caused immediate logistical problems in caring for them. Because there were far more dogs than my shelter had individual cages or runs, we had to kennel them in groups. And it became immediately apparent that the dogs were accustomed to fighting for their food. To prevent fights from breaking out over the food, we had to leave completely full bowls of food in the kennels at all times for a few weeks – and leave more bowls than there were dogs in each kennel. Sometimes, in those first few days, the dogs would spontaneously start fighting over any bowl that was placed on the floor of the run, even if there were half a dozen other full bowls of food already present.

Something else I never realized: Full bowls of food all day X 100 dogs = cleaning kennels ALL day for weeks on end.

We also had to keep these little dogs completely segregated from the rest of the dogs in the shelter, which turned out to save the lives of all the dogs in the shelter, after some of the new dogs proved to have distemper. Most shelters have a standard protocol in place calling for euthanasia of all the homeless animals in the facility if distemper breaks out. Through assiduous infection control, we were able to contain the infection. Only the seized puppies that were less than six months old had to be euthanized.  

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Puppies? In a “rescue” operation? Yes. There were several litters, and several more pregnant dogs seized from the “rescue.” Reproduction is an abomination in an environment with more dogs than one can feed.

The dogs had a wide array of health problems, such as mange and other skin ailments; cuts and bite wounds (no doubt from their desperate fights for food); infected ears and eyes and paws. One sweet old Cocker Spaniel had end-stage cancer. Another mixed-breed senior couldn’t stand up, her arthritis was so bad.  

 I’m writing about this for two reasons: One is that the case I’ve described above is about to go to trial. I plan on attending; several of the animal control officers and shelter staffers have been subpoenaed.

The other is because I just received a link to an article about an even bigger case, involving almost 350 dogs confiscated from “One More Chance Rescue and Adoption” in Piqua, Ohio. Seventy six dead dogs were also found on the property.

I receive articles like this at least a couple times a month. Cases like these can strain legitimate animal control agencies or shelters to the breaking point.

Whatever you do, please don’t offer any financial support to “rescues” or “sanctuaries” that you haven’t seen personally, or that are not open to the general public for frequent inspection. You may be inadvertently supporting a death camp for dogs and cats instead.

(Proper Greetings #3) Stop Your Dog from Jumping on People

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

There’s a common misconception that dogs jump on people to establish dominance. Balderdash! Dogs jump on people because there’s something about jumping that is reinforcing for the dog – usually the human attention that results from the jumping. If you want your dog to stop jumping on people, you have to be sure he doesn’t get reinforced for it. Here’s what you can do to prevent your dog from jumping on people:

Educate. Tell friends, family and even temporary acquaintances what you want them to do if your dog starts to jump up. Insist they not reinforce jumping up behavior – even those friends who claim they don’t mind! Educational options include telling them to:

  • Greet your dog before he jumps, perhaps even kneeling to greet a small dog.
  • Turn and step away from your dog until he sits, or at least has four feet on the floor, then turn back to greet the dog.
  • Ask your dog to sit and reinforce by petting him if/when he does.
  • Back away from your dog (if you have your dog on leash) and wait for him to sit before greeting or petting him. If he jumps up while you are petting him, simply stop the petting and take a step backward. Resume petting only if he sits.
  • Toss a toy conveniently provided by you to redirect the dog’s behavior before the jump happens.
  • Walk away from your dog through a gate or door and close it behind them to keep the dog on the other side.

For more training tips and advice on how to keep your dog from jumping up on people, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Proper Greeting: Stop Your Dog from Barking and Jumping when the Doorbell Rings.

Home-Prepared Dog Food Diet Books

By
Mary Straus
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Over the past few months, I’ve read more than 30 books on homemade diets for dogs. Many offered recipes that were dangerously incomplete; a smaller number provided acceptable guidelines but were confusing, unduly restrictive, overly complicated, or had other issues that made me recommend them only with reservations. A few were good enough to recommend without reservation.

Home-Prepared Diet

This review is about the cream of the crop: three relatively new books (or new editions of an older book) whose authors have taken the time to analyze their recipes to ensure that they meet the latest nutritional guidelines established by the National Research Council (NRC). All three books offer boneless recipes as well as some that include raw meaty bones (RMBs), giving you the option of choosing either style of feeding, or a combination of the two, depending on what works best for both you and your dogs.

These three books take an approach that’s very different from the books that focus on just raw meaty bone diets, which I reviewed in December (“Reliable Guides for Raw Diets”). Those books provided dietary guidelines rather than recipes, relying on common sense and mimicking the evolutionary diet of the wolf rather than nutritional analyses to provide diets that are complete and balanced. I believe such an approach is valid and follow it myself, but the guidelines are often misinterpreted, leading to diets that are missing critical ingredients or overloaded with others, and thus nutritionally unbalanced and incomplete.

The books reviewed also differ from the boneless diet books I reviewed in the January issue (“No Bones About It”): none of those books provided recipes that had been analyzed to ensure that they met NRC guidelines. The best of those books gave good guidelines for creating a complete homemade diet, but each required careful attention to the text to ensure that nothing was left out. People who just follow the recipes are likely to end up feeding an incomplete diet.

The three books included in this review are quite specific about what you should feed and what supplements you need to add. They offer peace of mind for those concerned that the diet they’re feeding may not meet all of their dog’s nutritional needs. They provide a reliable alternative for those who are not able to feed, for whatever reason, the wide variety of foods needed to provide a complete and balanced diet without supplementation. They offer help to people whose dogs are experiencing health problems that could be related to their diet. And for those of us who just want to understand more about where essential nutrients come from in the diets that we feed, and what might be missing, the information they provide is fascinating.

Two of these books provide recipes that meet requirements for all life stages, while the third can be used for adult maintenance only. It’s important to pay attention to this factor when you’re looking for books to help you feed your puppy or pregnant or nursing female.

I can’t recommend these books highly enough, not only for those interested in starting their dogs on a homemade diet, but also for people who already feed one. Reading through them has made me look more carefully at the diet I feed my own dog and the dietary guidelines that I give others, particularly regarding supplements. When I’m done with the book reviews, I plan to write about the changes I’m making based on what I’ve learned from these books.

A new approach

Two books published fairly recently include recipes for both boneless and raw meaty bones (RMB) meals. These two books have similarities, as the authors have worked together in the past and relied on much of the same research. Both are particularly appropriate for those concerned that their homemade diets meet NRC guidelines, as all recipes have been designed and analyzed to ensure that they do.

These are the only homemade diet books that address the issue of balanced fats, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. Modifying fats may be beneficial for dogs with skin problems and other inflammatory conditions. Both books stress feeding lean meats, which they recommend feeding raw, but light cooking is acceptable for boneless meat. Both also advise using bone meal, or other supplements that combine calcium and phosphorus such as MCHC or dicalcium phosphate, rather than plain calcium to balance the boneless recipes. The extra phosphorus is needed to meet requirements for puppies, as the recipes are designed for all life stages.

Both books omit dairy products and grains (except for one recipe with a small amount of oat bran in Brown’s book), and limit the amount of starchy vegetables. This can be beneficial for some dogs, particularly those prone to weight gain or inflammation from health issues such as allergies and arthritis. Carbohydrates, however, reduce the cost of a homemade diet. Those with large dogs who do not feed RMBs (which are usually less expensive than muscle meats) may find these diets cost-prohibitive. Very active dogs and females used for breeding can also benefit from more carbohydrates in the diet.

The winners are:

1. Dr. Becker’s Real Food for Healthy Dogs & Cats is the perfect book for those who want simple, clear recipes that meet NRC and AAFCO requirements for both puppies and adult dogs. I loved the 2009 edition that I originally read, but I’ve also had a chance to preview the 3rd edition and it’s even better. The basic recipes are the same, but the new edition provides many more details, including nutritional analyses of all recipes. The authors still recommend feeding all of the foods in their original recipes, but the new edition offers options for omitting certain foods, telling you what additional supplements need to be provided in those cases.

2. For those who really want to understand the whys and wherefores of homemade diets, Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet is ideal. Author Steve Brown delves into the ancestral diet of the dog and compares it to the latest NRC guidelines. Brown is the creator of Steve’s Real Food for Dogs (he no longer owns the company) and See Spot Live Longer Homemade Dinner Mixes. Step by step, he investigates the nutrients supplied by different foods, and how to go about combining those foods to achieve balanced meals that meet NRC guidelines without the use of synthetic supplements (he adds vitamin E and also includes bone meal in recipes that don’t include bone). Particular attention is paid to ensuring that fats are properly balanced, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3.

3. Monica Segal’s book, K9 Kitchen, offers guidelines and sample recipes for diets based on raw meaty bones, cooked diets, and combinations of the two. Segal’s moderate approach encourages you to pick the style of feeding that you’re most comfortable with and that works for your dog. Sample weekly recipes for all three styles of feeding are included for dogs of various weights and activity levels.

Much more information about these books – their strengths and weaknesses, as well as their prices, length, and where you can find them – can be found in the March issue of WDJ, A Review of the Best Books on Home-Prepared Dog Food Diets on the Market.

Mary Straus investigates canine health and nutrition as an avocation. She is the owner of the DogAware.com website. She and her Norwich Terrier, Ella, live in the San Francisco Bay Area.

5 Things to Do When a Neighbor Complains About Dog Barking

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Neigbors complaining about dog barking may have a valid point.
A barking dog is a valid reason for a neighbor to complain. Defusing the situation is the best response.

The natural thing to do when a neighbor complains about dog barking is to get defensive. “My dog? Causing a problem? How dare you?!”

Don’t go there. Defensiveness exacerbates hostilities, escalates tension, and encourages your neighbor to make a mountain out of what you perceive to be a molehill. Remember, it’s all about perception, and your neighbor’s perception is his reality. Instead of being defensive, try these things:

1. Listen intently to your neighbor’s complaint.

Unless one of you plans to move, defusing the situation beats all-out war. Set defensiveness aside, and listen to what your neighbor says. Assume there’s some nugget of truth to his complaint. You need to find it, so you can figure out what to do with it. He says your dog barks all the time, underneath his bedroom window, and wakes him up. That may be an exaggeration, but chances are your dog is barking some of the time, especially if you leave her out in the yard, or if she has free backyard access through a doggie-door.

2. Empathize and apologize for your dog barking.

Without admitting guilt, empathize with your complainer. “It must be frustrating to have to listen to barking dogs when you’re trying to sleep.” Be sincere. Tell him you’re sorry he’s being disturbed by barking. Reassure him that you don’t want your dog to be a nuisance, and you want to help find a solution to his concerns. Ask him to bear with you while you work on the problem. Bake him chocolate chip cookies.

3. Investigate your dog’s nuisance behavior.

Ask questions that won’t make your neighbor defensive. “Is there a time when it’s most annoying?” “Are there other dogs that are barking too?” “Other than giving up my dog, what would make you happy?” Set up a video camera or voice-activated tape recorder to document your dog’s activities when you aren’t home. Alternatively, take a day off and watch your own house from a distance, to see what goes on that might make your dog bark. Check the neighborhood to see if there are other dogs whose barking might be blamed on your dog. Ask other neighbors if they hear your dog, and if so, when and how much.

4. Respect all community dog laws.

Make sure your dog is currently licensed, and obey all local animal control laws. Maybe your neighbor is complaining because your dog runs loose and he feels threatened (even though you know your dog is a pussycat), or because you don’t clean up when you take her for walks. Those are legitimate grounds for complaint (as is excessive nuisance barking) even if your dog is a pussycat. You don’t want animal control to find you in violation of anything. Obey leash laws and scoop laws, and respect your neighbor’s discomfort with your dog – don’t let her off-leash even if you’re just walking out to your car. If she runs over to happily greet him, you’ll fuel the fires.

5. Take action to modify your dog’s behavior, and your own behavior.

Make changes to accommodate your neighbor and protect your dog. If his complaint is early-morning noise and she’s barking when you let her out at 6:00 am while you shower, alter your routine. Get up earlier and go out with her. Let her eliminate, then play with her. Keep her quietly occupied rather than leaving her to find her own entertainment. If it’s random throughout-the-day backyard barking while you’re away, bring her in and close the dog door. She doesn’t have to be outside all day. If things get ugly, leaving her out unattended exposes her to great risk from an irate neighbor. If necessary, pay someone to let her out for a noon potty break. If the complaint is about barking even when you are home, behavior modification is in order. (See “Modifying Your Dog’s Barking Behavior“.) If it’s something other than barking, determine how you can modify the situation to mitigate the problem. Some examples:

-Your dog charges the fence. Your neighbor fears for his children’s safety. Make the fence solid, or put up an inner fence so there’s an “airlock” between dog and kids. See, “Solve Fence Aggression with a Better Designed Dog Fence,” for more info on fencing.

-Your dog came over and attacked his dog. You think your dog was just playing, but whatever. Vow that your dog is never off her leash in your neighborhood. Even just walking to your car.

Keep your neighbor informed of your efforts to address his concerns. Document your actions in a journal in case you do have to face animal control. Ask your neighbor to let you know if he sees improvement – and document that. Save receipts for anything you buy to modify your dog’s environment. If you see your neighbor deliberately antagonizing your dog, document that with a video camera. Keep your dog safe. Be considerate. Keep baking chocolate chip cookies.

Protect Your Dog – It’s OK to Disagree with a Dog Trainer or Your Veterinarian

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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0

It’s awkward at best, devastating at worst, when your trainer or other animal care professional wants to do – or actually does – something to your dog that goes against your strongly held beliefs about how dogs should be treated. This is most often something involving the use of coercion or force, but also includes other things, such as feeding something you don’t want your dog to ingest, and reinforcing a behavior you don’t want rewarded. Professionals, at least good ones, are supposed to be well-educated and know what they’re doing. Who are you to object?

Disagreeing With Dog Trainers And Vets

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Actually, you’re the only one who can object. You are your dog’s protector, that’s who, and he depends on you to do what’s right for him.

So what do you do when your trainer, veterinarian, groomer, or other professional starts to do something you find disturbing?

-Intervene. You have the absolute right – no, the moral obligation and duty – to stop someone from doing something inappropriate to your dog. It doesn’t matter who they are, or how many letters they have after their name. Be assertive. In a loud, clear, firm voice, say, “Stop!” Then calmly take your dog from the person and keep him with you while you and the person discuss the situation, and your concerns. A true professional will respect you for standing up for your dog’s best interests, even if they disagree with the basis for your concern.

-Discuss. Do your professional the courtesy of discussing the situation with her. Calmly explain why you are uncomfortable with what she was doing, or about to do. Let her explain to you why feels she needs to do whatever it is. Listen to her explanation with an open mind. Ask if there are any alternative ways to accomplish the goal before you, and see if you can agree on a different approach. If so, be sure she is completely clear that she is not to use the tools or methods that you find objectionable.

-Think critically. As you listen and discuss, I suggest you use three filters to evaluate the information your trainer gives you about the tool or technique she wants to use that triggered your concern.

-Scientific filter: Does her explanation of the procedure or piece of equipment make sense?

-Philosophical filter: If something is scientifically sound but you’re not comfortable with it, don’t use it.
 
-The reality filter: Let’s say that after listening to your professional’s explanation, you decide that you’re comfortable proceeding. You can still stop the procedure at any time if you don’t like what you see, or even if you agree that it’s benign, but it doesn’t seem to be working. Each dog is different, and what works for one may not work for another, even if it’s philosophically acceptable.

When you’re done filtering, you can advance your status as a critical thinker by educating yourself further on the issue. Read books, join online discussion groups (whether it’s about training based on positive reinforcement, natural diet, or holistic healthcare) and consult with other professionals whose perspectives you respect.

-Trust your instincts. Don’t let your animal care professional make light of your concerns, or talk you into something you don’t want to do. Trust your instincts. Countless dog owners tell me they regret succumbing to pressure and letting a trainer, vet, or other professional convince them to allow them to use a tool or method that they objected to. Still others regret not speaking up at all, until it was too late. Stand firm. You are your dog’s protector.

-Walk away. If you and your professional can’t find a compromise, or you don’t think she can be trusted to respect your feelings and beliefs, fire her. You can do it nicely; just calmly explain that you feel the two of you are philosophically too far apart, and that you need to find an animal care provider whose approach to training and handling is more closely aligned with yours. Then calmly walk away, forever your dog’s superhero, protector, and defender.

Pat Miller is WDJ’s Training Editor.

Five Steps to Take if Your Dog’s Food Has Been Recalled

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

[Updated November 3, 2017]

Over the past few years, owners have become uncomfortably aware that their pets’ food can be suddenly declared dangerous, due to contamination of the product or its ingredients or some sort of processing malfunction. What should you do if you learn about a recall of your dog’s food?

Not sure how dog food recalls works? Check out this Dogster report.

Dog Food Recalls

1. Check the brand, variety, package size, and lot numbers. 

If you hear about a recall of food involving a company whose products you recently fed your dog, you need to do some further (and fast) research. The best source of information is the Food and Drug Administration’s website, where recalls are announced. That’s unfortunate for those of you who don’t use a computer. You can call the FDA, but it might be difficult to get through, especially if the recall was extensive. The goal is to determine whether the product you have in your possession is truly involved in the recall. You’ll need to compare the variety, package size, and lot numbers of the recalled food.

This is why we recommend that owners always keep their pets’ dry food in its original bag. There are a number of problems that can arise from dumping dry dog food into another container; not having the package (and lot numbers) in case of a recall is a big one.

Not long ago, I a brand of food I was currently feeding my dog was recalled. It turned out that I had the same brand and variety as one that was recalled, but the bag size and lot numbers were different. I put that food aside for another few weeks until I was certain that the recall didn’t expand to include the lot I had.

2. Stop feeding the recalled food. 

If you determine that you do have possession of the product being recalled, don’t feed any more of it to your dog! You may even do as I did and hold off feeding a product that is the same brand and variety, but a different size or lot number, until the involved parties (pet food company, FDA) are certain they have identified all the affected product. Buy another product to feed your dog for now.

Also, don’t throw the recalled food away, but keep it in a place where it can’t be eaten or accidently fed to your dog.

3. Check your dog for signs of illness. 

Your urgency on this point should be congruent with the reason for the recall. If the recall was caused by the discovery of Salmonella on your dog’s food, and he hasn’t had diarrhea since eating the food, there is little cause for concern; most dogs can handle a little brush with Salmonella.

However, if the recall was due to a more serious threat, such as such as aflatoxin (a toxin produced by fungus) or a dangerous excess of a potentially toxic nutrient, such as vitamin D or copper, you might want to schedule a veterinary examination. If your dog’s health has been sketchy, or you’ve noticed any change in his well-being or activity since feeding the food, ask your vet for an immediate appointment.

4. Contact the food’s maker.

It may be difficult to get through to the pet food company’s toll-free number, but persevere. If given the opportunity to leave a message, speak slowly and clearly, and give your name, phone number/s, mailing address, and e-mail address. Keep the dog food package near the phone, so you can confirm the brand, variety, size, and lot number to the representative. Inform the company how much recalled food you have, how much you have left, and what condition your dog is in (seemingly fine? not quite right? seriously ill?). Ask what they will do next, and what you should do with the product that you have left over. They may ask you to send some of the food to them for testing; don’t send all of it.

5. Follow through with the pet food company.

If your dog becomes ill after eating a recalled food, follow through. The manufacturer has a legal obligation to report adverse affects caused by their products, but it might not be easily convinced of its culpability. Go ahead and file a report with the FDA; there is a simple (but long) form for this purpose online. Keep assiduous records of your dog’s ongoing health issues and save your veterinary receipts. Keep the pet food bag and the receipt for the food (if you have it). Send copies of these things if requested, but don’t lose the originals. Stay in constant contact with the pet food company until you have been reimbursed for the food and for any vet bills you’ve had to pay. 

Nancy Kerns is Editor of WDJ.

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