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Dog Tail Signs: What’s Your Dog’s Tail Language?

Your dog's body language provides the context needed to interpret dog tail languages.
This article is about tails, but make sure you look at the tail in context; don't ignore what the rest of the dogs body language is expressing. This dog may have a naturally high tail; it's high, but she doesn't look aroused: Her eyes look soft, her mouth is open and relaxed, her ears are off to the side (not pricked hard forward) and she is leaning back slightly. It looks like she's asking the photographer to throw the toy for her.

Why do dogs wag their tails? Everybody knows that when a dog approaches you wagging her tail it means she’s inviting you to pet her, right? Wrong! We may have all grown up thinking a wagging tail means a happy dog, but that is not always true. Misinterpreting a wagging tail has gotten countless well-intentioned dog-lovers bitten, sometimes quite badly.

So, here’s the thing: A wagging tail does not necessarily mean a happy dog. It simply means arousal of some kind. That can be happy arousal, or fear, excitement, or even aggressive arousal. Here are some tips to help you decipher the canine tail-wagging lexicon:

DOG TAIL MEANINGS

high tail wag in a playful stance
Given the shelter setting, it’s likely that this dog’s high tail is due to arousal (most shelters are a high-stress environment). But the dog’s “play bow” posture is a clear sign that the dog is displaying happy, friendly arousal.

Tail wagging works well for dogs in the canine world. Since dogs communicate primarily through vision and body language, dogs are generally good at understanding each other’s tail wags. (And, yes, dogs who are born with short tails or whose tails are docked are at a significant disadvantage when it comes to dog tail language.)

In general, the higher the dog’s tail and the faster the wag, the greater the level of arousal. While a very high tail indicates high arousal, a very low-wagging tail most often denotes fear and appeasement.

High tail wag. A “flagging” tail – straight up or even curved slightly over the dog’s back – moving at blur-fast speed, is an indication of strong emotion. Of course, some dogs naturally carry their tails straight up or curled over their backs (Huskies, Pomeranians, Pugs, Basenjis, and more), so you need to take that into consideration when reading a dog’s tail.

high tail with slow wag meaning
A high tail with a slow wag may indicate a happy dog with a lower level of arousal, but again, look at the whole picture. Did the wag just stop? Did he just freeze? His backward-leaning stance, hard eyes, and closed mouth suggest he’s conflicted.

But how do you know if it’s a fun-and-games, fast-wagging high tail saying, “I’m so happy and excited to see you! Yes, please, pet me!” or an aroused and angry high tail telling you, “If you try to pet me, you’ll be toast!”?

The simple answer: body language. The “Pet me!” dog is animated and wiggly, with soft eyes and an inviting open-mouth grin. Sometimes her whole body seems to wag!

In contrast, the “I want to eat you!” dog is likely to have a tense body and hard eyes, with all his energy focused forward with no wiggling. Even still, a happy aroused dog can do damage in her excitement, so you are better off waiting to engage even with a happy high-tail wagger until she calms down a bit.

Meanwhile, a high-but-slower tail wag suggests less active arousal, but it still can be a caution sign. She may just be happy and not as aroused, or it might be that an elevated level of tension has slowed the aggressive dog’s tail. It could be the beginning of an agonistic freeze just before the bite happens. (“Agonistic” refers to a continuum of social behaviors including all aspects of aggression, from appeasement and flight at one end, to warning signals, threat and actual attack at the other extreme.)

Again, reading the dog’s entire body language will help you determine what the dog’s tail means, and if it might be safe to interact, or not.

happy relaxed dog wagging tail
A half-mast, open mouth, and bright eyes complete the picture of a relaxed, happy dog.

Half-mast tail wag. A medium-height tail wag is generally an indication of a calmer, less aroused dog. The speed of the wag can further indicate how calm the dog might be.

I like to look for what I call “the half-mast swish,” where the tail is gently wafting back and forth at about hock level. A faster wag indicates more energy on the dog’s part (happy or angry energy), and a fast wag that slows to a freeze is always a warning sign.

A dog with a half-mast wag can still bite you. Watch all the body language, not just the tail. Happy, relaxed tail wagging is usually accompanied by a happy facial expression. A happy dog usually has bright eyes, a relaxed open mouth, and possibly a gentle pant.

Circle tail wag. This is my favorite, and the most unambiguous of all the tail wags. Most often, a dog will wag her tail in a circle if she is particularly overjoyed to see someone special, especially someone she hasn’t seen recently. A very friendly dog may offer this wag in happy excitement any time she meets someone she wants to call her friend, even someone new to her.

Although I’m sure there might be exceptions, I have personally never seen a dog do a circle wag who had any aggressive intent.

Low tail wag. When the wagging tail goes below half-mast, the dog is likely feeling fearful and defensive. The lower the tail wag, the stronger the emotion. The low tail wag is often accompanied by a lowered body posture and, sometimes, submissive urination. Also, the faster that lowered tail is wagging, the more emotion the dog is expressing to you.

It may be tempting to try to comfort the low-tail wagger. Don’t! All that appeasement behavior she’s offering is her way of telling you that you are making her very uncomfortable and she wants you to leave her alone. She may even roll over on her back as she wags her tail. 

Sadly, this appeasement behavior is often misinterpreted as an invitation for a belly rub. Again, don’t. While some dogs may enjoy a belly rub, a low-tail wagger is likely pleading with you to go away; she feels very threatened by your proximity and is making a last-ditch effort to get you to leave her alone. Rubbing this dog’s belly is quite likely to result in a significant bite, often to the face of the person doing the rubbing, since you are probably bent over her for the rub.

dog with short pig tails
Compared to dogs with more tail to communicate with, dogs with docked or short “pig” tails are definitely at a disadvantage. Dogs with extensive facial wrinkles are even more difficult to “read” (for other dogs and humans!)

Absence of wagging. The lack of tail movement can also give you information – again, in context with the rest of the dog’s body language. 

If a dog is calm and relaxed, a motionless tail just means that the dog is being zen – not enough emotion happening to make the tail move. A fearful dog whose tail is still is likely shut down, afraid to move at all. An aroused, angry dog whose tail stops wagging may be doing the agonistic freeze mentioned above. And a happy aroused dog may be engaging in a whole-body “pause” prior to a play bow, a bounce, or some other play-invitation behavior. 

Tail Wagging Takes Sides

dog tail wagging language

A study done in Beijing in 2022, published in iScience, concluded that the direction in which a dog wags his tail may be a clue to what the dog is feeling. It’s not the first study to make this determination, which means there is validity to this theory.

In this study, Chinese researchers found that “tail wagging shifts from left side to right side as dogs familiarize with humans,” suggesting the shift as a “time-sensitive indicator of social familiarity.” In other words, dogs who wag their tail more to the right are likely happy or content.

The researchers added that, “Our results with laboratory Beagles and previously reported asymmetric tail wagging in pet dogs indicate that the left- and right-wagging bias might be indicators of negative and positive effects, respectively.”

Of course, the wise dog person pays attention to everything a dog is telling you, including his stance, eyes, general demeanor, and the situation at hand.

DOG TAIL LANGUAGE DURING DOG-DOG INTERACTIONS

The same interpretations of dog tail language hold true for dog-dog meet and greets. A high, fast tail wag indicates a significant amount of arousal; use caution with this introduction. Do parallel walking until the tails slow down and you can determine if the wagging is from happy excitement wagging or tension that could lead to a fight.

tail wagging communication between two dogs
Two high tails: Too high? Not really; they are aroused, but there are no signs of potentially aggressive overarousal. The white dog is looser (open mouth, playfully lifted front paw), but while the brown dog seems still, he doesn’t look frozen; he may be about to “bounce” in play-invitation.

Hock-level wags are more promising, and a circle wag is ideal. A low-tail wag during dog introductions tells you that the dog is unsure, perhaps feeling threatened. If the more assertive dog responds appropriately to this by slowing down and toning down his energy level, all may go well.

If, instead, he continues an energetic, assertive approach, the dog offering appeasement signals may become defensively aggressive and a fight can ensue. Often the more appeasing dog gets blamed for this fight when, in fact, it’s the fault of the more assertive dog for not responding appropriately to the other dog’s signals!

It’s imperative that you intervene before a fight happens when you see that an energetic assertive dog is not honoring the message sent by a low-wagging tail. Again, parallel walking and controlled interactions may serve to salvage this relationship.

low dog tail fearful dog
This dog’s tail is wagging – but the tail and overall low, tense posture is fear-based appeasement behavior. Many people would be tempted to try to comfort this dog, but the overall message she is sending is, “I’m scared to death! Please leave me alone!”

TAKE IN THE WHOLE DOG’S BODY LANGUAGE

Regardless of the likely dog tail meaning, you are safest when you let the dog approach you and initiate the interaction. Reaching out to pet a dog, even one with a soft half-mast swish, could trigger a defensive response. Let the dog come to you.

And regardless of whichever side a dog’s tail is wagging on, the more you pay attention to the whole dog, the better you’ll be able to understand what that wagging tail is really trying to communicate. Our dogs are talking to us all the time. Remember to listen with your eyes.

Dogs in Restaurants: Yay! Or Nay?

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A dog sits attentively under a table at an outdoor cafe.
This is a stock photo, so it's likely (hopefully!) staged and not actually an unleashed, alert dog with an inattentive owner at an outdoor cafe. But it's certainly possible! Photo by brightstars, Getty Images.

I’m generally a fan of places or experiences that dog owners can enjoy with their well behaved dogs—but not so much when it’s with other people’s unruly, reactive, or loud dogs. Couple any of that with owners who make no effort to limit their dogs’ intrusion into other people’s space or hampering wait-staff, and any progress that has been made to include dogs goes out the window.

 

I was visiting my sister-in-law and niece in a nearby town recently when we decided to walk to a nearby burger-and-brew sort of place that has an outdoor patio. It was a lovely evening, so we weren’t dismayed when we were told it would be at least a 30-minute wait for an outdoor table; we were catching up and in the meantime we could enjoy the view of the sunset and the perfectly lovely early-summer temperature. When I glanced around the patio, to see how far along most diners were in their meals (and gauge how much time we might have to wait), I was surprised to see a dog at nearly every one of the eight or nine outdoor tables—but hey, I’m a dog lover! No problem!

However, when a server directed us to a table on the far side of the patio and we made our way across the area, I had an immediate instinct that the situation was borderline dangerous. Several of the dogs in the patio were standing or sniffing at the end of fairly long leashes, which were being loosely held (or sat on) by people who looked frankly inattentive to their dogs. I thought to myself, “This situation is ripe for a dog fight!”—and that was before I saw, lying flat in the space between our table and the one next to it, a very large dog, taller and heavier than my own 70-plus-pound Pit/Lab-mix, whose leash wasn’t being held or tethered at all!

To take a seat on the picnic bench for our table, my niece and I either had to step over the dog, or ask the owner to ask his dog to move. My niece, who loves dogs, was about to do the former when I gently arm-blocked her; there is absolutely no way to know how a strange dog would respond to opening his eyes in time to see a strange person stepping over him! I made eye contact with the dog’s owner and said, “Do you mind asking him to move so we can sit down?” He looked down at the dog, and then at us, and said in a slightly annoyed tone, “He’s OK, he won’t do anything.”

I could have been argumentative and said, “Hey, you know, I’m not going to put my beloved niece’s legs at risk of a dog bite,” but instead I took a more direct approach: I whistled to alert the dog, who immediately sat up. I smiled at the dog and his owner and said, “Oh, what a good dog!” and slipped past the dog so I could pull out the bench for my niece and I to sit on. I didn’t think the guy would have brought an aggressive dog to a crowded patio, but I wouldn’t ask any snoozing dog—and especially one who probably outweighs my niece—to tolerate being stepped over by strangers!

I gained more and more sympathy for the servers every time I saw them wend their way through the crowded patio, pausing for owners to pull their distracted, restless dogs back toward their tables so the servers wouldn’t have to step over (or trip over) the dogs’ leashes—but I also wondered: How do these owners not see how they are inconveniencing (at best) or endangering the wait-staff and other diners?

The last straw (for me, personally) was provided by a couple who seemed to be waiting for a take-out order, accompanied by a clearly dog-reactive Husky-mix. They were lurking near the edge of the patio, and every time the Husky caught sight of one of the patio dogs, she would start barking—which would set off a wave of barking and active reactions from the dogs on the patio. Why couldn’t that couple have waited with the dog a few yards farther away, within sight of the restaurant door, but where their dog wouldn’t keep being triggered by the sight of the other dogs (and thus, triggering all the other dogs on the patio to react)? The entire experience was not dissimilar to eating dinner in the kennels at an animal shelter.

Personally, I’m mortified when my dogs do anything in a public setting that could inconvenience or concern other people; for me, it’s an indication that my management and training of my dogs is not as good as it should be in order to have my dogs in public. But none of the people dining on this patio with their dogs seemed to be conscious of their dogs doing anything wrong at all. Perhaps they rationalized that since all the dogs were being loud and obnoxious, theirs wasn’t standing out in any way?

Have you had a bad experience with other people’s dogs in public? Or would you admit it if your dog may have been problematic for people around you?

Dog Ear Infection Symptoms

Dog ear infections can occur follow water in the ear.
Most dogs will shake if they get wet, but if your dog is frequently shaking his head for no apparent reason, that may be a sign of an ear infection. Credit: VivaZa | Getty Images

It’s one of the most common questions we hear at a veterinary visit: Why is my dog shaking his head (or ears)? While inner-ear infections occur more in dogs with drop ears, like Cocker Spaniels, any dog can experience an ear infection. Causes can range from yeast to bacteria to mites or allergy, and we will explain the causes, treatments, and prevention here.

Signs of an ear infection include any of these symptoms:

  • Discharge from the ears
  • Odor coming from the ears
  • Redness in and around the ears
  • Rubbing ears on the ground or on furniture
  • Scratching his ears
  • Shaking his head

Infections can be in one or in both ears. Sometimes the ear canal is so swollen, the opening is obscured, making it difficult to see what is going on in the ear canal. This also makes getting topical medications in the ear more challenging.

Causes of Ear Infections

A proper diagnosis of ear discomfort will usually require ear cytology, a diagnostic test in which a sample of the ear discharge is smeared on a glass slide. The slide is then stained and examined under a microscope, so the laboratory can determine the cause of the ear infection. Different causes of ear infections have different treatments. Quick tip: Don’t clean out or treat the ears prior to the veterinary appointment! This could lead to misleading test results and an inaccurate diagnosis.

Ear infection causes in dogs include:

  • Yeast (Malassezia pachydermatis. This is a common cause of ear infections. While small numbers of yeast can normally be found in the ears and on the skin of dogs, overgrowth of this organism can cause problems. Yeast infections are treated with an anti-fungal medication.
  • Bacteria. Multiple species of bacteria can cause ear infections. These infections are treated with antibiotics. Occasionally, first-line antibiotic therapy is not effective, and in these cases, the ear discharge is cultured to find out what species of bacteria is causing the infection, and the bacteria’s sensitivity to multiple antibiotics is measured to determine the best antibiotic choice. What we often find in these cases is that the bacteria are resistance to one or more antibiotics. Knowing what the invading bacteria are sensitive to helps tailor the therapy to the specific medication that will work.
  • Ear mites (Otodectes cynotis). These are mites that live on the surface of the skin and can often be observed in an otoscopic exam. This ectoparasite is contagious via direct contact. There are multiple treatments for ear mites, including topical drops for the ear canal, one-time treatments that are administered directly into the ear canal, and other topical medications that also have action against fleas.
  • Allergy. Itchy ears also can be a consequence of an allergy. If the itchiness is caused by a seasonal allergy (atopy), controlling the itch during the season with either a steroid (oral or topical) or other anti-itch therapy (oral Apoquel, injectable Cytopoint) can bring relief.

Sometimes there are chronic ear problems that are non-seasonal, and these cases are often suspected to be related to dietary sensitivity (food allergy). The therapy of choice for a suspected dietary sensitivity is to do a hypoallergenic diet trial. The diet to try is one of two types: either a prescription hydrolyzed diet or a novel protein/novel carbohydrate diet (prescription or home cooked with recipe formulated by a veterinary nutritionist, to prevent contamination with other proteins that can often happen in over the counter foods and can confuse the results of the diet trial).

The trial would need to be at least 12 weeks in length and is very strict, which means no commercial treats, no table food, no counter surfing or garbage diving, no eating poop of a dog on a different diet.

During the duration of the diet trial, any other infections (see above) would need to be treated, as they will not magically go away without appropriate therapy.

When to See a Specialist

Ear infections should be treated under the direction of your dog’s veterinarian, or by a board-certified veterinary dermatologist.

Topical treatments are usually preferred, as the medication is placed in the site of the infection, and systemic side effects can be avoided. However, if the dog is too painful to treat topically, or is resistant to an owner administering medication at home, oral forms of the medications can be of benefit.

Follow-up visits to document success or failure of the treatment are important in managing each individual dog’s ear health. Don’t skip them! Ear infections left untreated or undertreated can result in chronic pain and inflammation, deafness, peripheral vestibular disease that can affect balance, or an aural hematoma, in which the ear flap (pinna) becomes distended as it fills with blood.

Aural hematomas, left to heal naturally, will result in scarring of the pinna that is similar to a wrestler’s cauliflower ear. American Cocker Spaniels are a breed that can develop ear canal issues even without infection.

When ear infections cannot be managed through medical therapy, total ear canal ablation (TECA) surgery may be considered. Even though this procedure essentially renders the dog deaf on that side (or totally deaf if both sides are treated), it provides relief to chronic pain and infection. The TECA surgery is also indicated if there are cancerous changes in the ear canal.

Prevention

Clearly, ear infections are no fun for dogs or humans! Dog owners can help prevent ear infections from starting in the first place by using these simple guidelines:

  • Work with your dog to accept procedures. As soon as a dog is adopted, owners should start work on cooperative care training, in which the dog is taught not only to accept, but consent, to veterinary procedures. At the very least, owners should be able to touch the ears and look down into the ear canals to monitor for changes. Getting a dog to accept regular ear cleanings is also extremely helpful.
  • Consider using an ear cleaner with a drying agent in it for frequent swimmers. Often ear infections are more likely to set up after exposure of the ear canal to water. This is particularly notable for dogs who swim. If the moisture is left to evaporate naturally, this can set up a warm, humid local environment in the ear canal, which is an ideal condition in which bacteria and yeast can thrive. To speed up the evaporation of excess water in the ear canal, flush the ear canal after the last swim of the day with an ear cleanser, preferably one that has a drying agent in it.
  • Stick with any prescribed dietary plans. If a dog has been diagnosed with a dietary sensitivity (see allergy above), stick to the strict diet plan to avoid an allergic flare, which can take weeks or months to calm back down.

Diabetes in Dogs

Weight and Fitness eBook
Diet and weight play an important role in managing diabetes in dogs.

Picture it: You have just returned home from a dinner party to find that your dog has urinated on the kitchen floor – again. She has always been a good dog about going outside to do her business. Why is she suddenly leaving large puddles of urine in the house? Increased urination is one of the telltale signs of diabetes. Could your dog be battling canine diabetes mellitus? Maybe. The incidence of diabetes in dogs is on the rise, according to the North American Veterinary Community.

Symptoms of diabetes in dogs include:

  • Increased urination
  • Unusual peeing accidents in the house
  • Drinking large amounts of water
  • Urinating more often and in large amounts
  • Changes in appetite (eating more or less)
  • Weight loss despite good appetite
  • Cloudy eyes/development of cataracts
  • Increased infections, including urinary tract and skin

How Diabetes Is Diagnosed in Dogs

Diabetes is defined as persistent hyperglycelmia (high blood glucose) and glucouria (glucose in the urine). If your dog is exhibiting signs of diabetes, your veterinarian will want to run blood tests (including a complete blood count and a chemistry panel) and collect a sterile urine sample for a urinalysis.

The chemistry panel for a dog with diabetes will show elevated blood glucose and sometimes will also show elevated cholesterol, triglycerides, and liver enzymes. The urinalysis will show glucose in the urine but may also reveal the presence of protein, ketones, and bacteria. Many dogs with diabetes mellitus have a concurrent urinary tract infection (UTI), so a urine culture and sensitivity will be recommended to confirm the presence of bacteria and determine the correct antibiotic for treating the UTI.

What Causes Diabetes in Dogs?

In dogs, diabetes is almost always caused by a decreased production of insulin. Insulin is produced by special cells in the pancreas called beta cells. When beta cells either produce less insulin or are destroyed by an episode of pancreatitis or an immune-mediated disease, the result is diabetes mellitus.

alphaTRACK
The AlphaTRAK 2 blood glucose monitoring system starter kit contains a monitoring meter, test strips, lancets, a lancing device, a control solution and a carrying case.

There are some conditions in which diabetes is caused by insulin resistance. In these circumstances, the dog’s beta cells are still producing insulin, but his or her body has a decreased capacity to utilize it.

Intact female dogs who are either pregnant or between heat cycles are at an increased risk of developing transient diabetes.

Dogs who are obese or are receiving certain chronic medications (such as steroids, progestins, and cyclosporine) are at risk for developing insulin-resistant diabetes.

Dogs who have a concurrent endocrine disorder, such as hyperadrenocorticism (also known as Cushing’s disease) or hypothyroidism, are also at risk for diabetes development.

Certain breeds of dogs are known to be more likely to develop diabetes mellitus during their lifetime. These breeds include Australian Terriers, Beagles, Samoyeds, and Keeshonden.

Treatment for a dog with diabetes

The mainstay of diabetes treatment in a dog is insulin therapy. Long-acting insulin is injected under the skin twice a day. The needle and syringe used to administer insulin are small. Dogs hardly even notice the injection, especially if they are being distracted by food or a treat! Your veterinary team will give you a demonstration on how to give insulin and will help you become comfortable with this process.

Vetsulin Pen
People who have difficulty reading the numbers on a syringe and feel uncomfortable with handling syringes may have an easier time with the Vetsulin pen.

There are three different types of insulin that are used to treat canine diabetes. Two of these insulin types are approved by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) for use in dogs while one of them is not (but is still commonly used).

Both Vetsulin and ProZinc are FDA-approved insulins for use in dogs. Vetsulin is given twice a day and is available in two forms – vial and pen form. With the vial form, you draw up the appropriate dose in an insulin syringe and inject the insulin into your dog. With the pen form, you select the appropriate dose on the pen, insert the needle under your dog’s skin, and press the button to inject the insulin. People who have difficulty reading the numbers on a syringe or who feel uncomfortable with handling syringes may have an easier time with the Vetsulin pen.

ProZinc is given either once or twice a day depending on your dog’s response to the insulin. This insulin is only available in the vial form. Therefore, it requires the use of an insulin syringe to draw up and inject the insulin. Both ProZinc and the vial form of Vetsulin require U-40 size insulin syringes – this is different than what is used by humans with diabetes, who require U-100 size insulin syringes.

Novolin N and Humulin N are insulins used to treat diabetes mellitus in people. They are not FDA-approved for use in dogs but have been used “off label” for many years to treat diabetes in canines.

Options for insulin for dogs used to be limited and expensive. Vetsulin was approved by the FDA in 2013 and ProZinc was approved for use in dogs in 2019. Novolin and Humulin were also very inexpensive compared to the products approved for dogs. Fortunately, now both Vetsulin and ProZinc are typically less expensive than Novolin and Humulin. Vetsulin and ProZinc also last longer and function better in the canine body than Novolin and Humulin.

Diet for Dog Diabetics

Diet plays an important role in managing diabetes in dogs. Dogs who are overweight should be started on a weight-loss plan. It’s important not to lose weight too quickly and to weigh your dog once or twice a month to ensure weight loss is occurring at an appropriate rate. Your veterinarian may recommend a prescription weight-loss diet that is high in fiber to help achieve weight loss and better daily control of blood sugar.

Dogs who are at an ideal body weight or are underweight may also benefit from a diet that is high in both soluble and insoluble fiber. In certain circumstances, the addition of high-fiber vegetables (such as canned pumpkin or green beans) or fiber supplements (such as psyllium) may be beneficial. Talk to your veterinarian before instituting any diet change or adding any supplements.

There is no way to treat diabetic dogs without insulin. But there are two classes of medications that may help to improve glycemic control (daily control of blood sugar) in diabetic dogs. Acarbose works by inhibiting the absorption of glucose by the small intestine. This medication may be recommended in dogs for whom insulin therapy alone is not enough to control their high blood sugar.

Medications in the incretin class of drugs (such as Byetta, Bydureon, and Victoza) are hormones that work primarily by stimulating insulin secretion from the pancreas. These medications can only be used in conjunction with insulin. They are not substitutes for insulin therapy.

Monitoring a Diabetic Dog

The goals of treating a diabetic dog are to resolve the symptoms of increased thirst, urination, and appetite; to keep the blood glucose from becoming too low (hypoglycemia); and to keep the blood glucose below the level at which glucose enters the urine. This is different than the goals of treating a diabetic person, in which tight control of blood sugar is achieved through frequent monitoring of blood glucose and daily adjustments to the insulin dose.

There are several methods for monitoring diabetic dogs to ensure appropriate management. Your veterinarian will likely recommend a blood glucose curve be performed in their hospital, especially after the initial diagnosis. This is to ensure that your dog is not developing hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) when starting insulin therapy. A properly completed blood glucose curve will help determine the correct dose of insulin for your dog.

During a blood glucose curve, a very small sample of blood is obtained every two hours to measure the dog’s blood glucose. The blood glucose values are charted over a 12-hour period to see how your dog responds to his or her current insulin dose.

A blood glucose curve should be completed after starting insulin therapy and seven to 14 days after changing the dose of insulin. Then it should be completed at least once every three months to ensure your dog’s diabetes remains well-controlled. It should also be done when symptoms of diabetes return in a previously well-controlled diabetic or when hypoglycemia is suspected.

For dogs who are stressed by the idea of spending a day at the veterinary hospital, completing a blood glucose curve at home may be an option. The AlphaTRAK 2 blood glucose monitoring system starter kit from Zoetis contains everything you need to complete a blood glucose curve at home. Zoetis has videos available on their website that show you how to use the glucometer (blood glucose meter) and how to obtain a blood sample using the lancet that comes with the starter kit.

The AlphaTRAK 2 glucometer is calibrated to read blood glucose in both cat and dog blood. It only requires a very small drop of blood to obtain a blood glucose reading. Glucometers made for humans are not calibrated for use with dog blood and are not as accurate as the AlphaTRAK2. Your veterinarian probably uses the AlphaTRAK 2 to read your dog’s blood glucose in the hospital.

Zoetis also has an app for your phone that allows you to record your dog’s blood glucose readings and share them with your veterinarian. Talk to your veterinarian about the specific logistics of completing an at-home blood glucose curve if you are interested in this option.

For people who want to complete a blood glucose curve at home but are hesitant about collecting blood samples from their dog, there is a continuous glucose monitoring system called the FreeStyle Libre from Abbott. The FreeStyle is a small device about the size of a half-dollar that is temporarily attached to the skin on your dog’s back. The device reads your dog’s glucose every 15 minutes over a 14-day period. The glucose readings are sent to an app on your phone and can be shared with your veterinarian. Although the FreeStyle is not calibrated for dog blood, unlike other glucometers made for people, this device has been shown to be relatively accurate for dogs.

Urine glucose strips are used to detect the presence of glucose in urine. Although this seems like an easy way to monitor your dog’s glucose, urine glucose strips will not give you a complete picture of how well your dog’s diabetes is being managed. The urine glucose strip gives only an average reading over the period of time it takes your dog’s bladder to fill with urine. There may be moments during that period of time where your dog’s blood glucose is too low, normal, or too high. But the urine glucose strip will only show the average glucose over that time period rather than the potentially dangerous highs and lows. The only way to truly know how well your dog’s diabetes is being managed is by completing a blood glucose curve.

Complications of Diabetes

Dogs with diabetes are more likely to develop certain bacterial and fungal infections. These include infections of the bladder, prostate, skin, and lungs. Diabetes can also cause accumulation of lipids in the liver resulting in hepatomegaly (enlargement of the liver). Another possible complication of diabetes mellitus in dogs is the development of cataracts.

There are two life-threatening complications of diabetes in dogs: diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA) and diabetic hyperosmolar nonketotic syndrome (DHNS). Both conditions are caused by persistently high blood glucose levels. In DKA, the body tries to derive energy from fat since there is not enough insulin available to use glucose freely circulating in the bloodstream. The process of deriving energy from fat in the absence of insulin results in the production of ketones. The accumulation of ketones and glucose in the blood causes dehydration, abnormal electrolyte levels, and increased kidney values and liver enzymes. Dogs in DKA will often be vomiting, very lethargic, and will not eat. They may initially drink a lot of water. As the condition progresses, they may lay with their head next to or on the water bowl but not drink at all.

Dogs with DHNS also try to derive energy from fat, but there is just enough insulin available to prevent them from producing ketones. Dogs with DHNS are dehydrated and may have abdominal pain. They often vomit and decline to eat. They will be depressed and may even become comatose.

Although there is no final stage of diabetes, dogs who develop DKA or DHNS are sometimes euthanized because of the level of care they require to stabilize and correct their condition. Dogs with DKA or DHNS typically require hospitalization for two or more days in the intensive care unit of a hospital that is open 24 hours a day.

Canine Diabetes Survival

The median survival for dogs with diabetes mellitus is two years, but there are many dogs who live much longer than that. The faster a diabetic dog’s symptoms are recognized and he is diagnosed and receives proper treatment, the better his prognosis. With proper weight control, a well-managed diet and treatment, and regular veterinary assessments, dogs with diabetes can enjoy full, high-quality lives.

Learn more about managing your dog’s diabetes. 

Pancreatitis in Dogs: Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment

Pancreatitis in dogs can be caused by the ingestion of high fat foods like butter.
Counter surfing can “reward” dogs with a potentially high-fat food that may lead to pancreatitis. Credit: Yurikr | Getty Images

Pancreatitis in dogs is inflammation of the pancreas, a glandular organ in the abdomen that produces digestive enzymes and insulin. Signs of canine pancreatitis include not eating, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and fever. While there are hundreds of reasons for a dog not eating, pancreatitis is always a possibility, especially if the dog has any of the signs listed below. And, make no mistake about it, acute pancreatitis is life-threatening.

Signs of Worsening Pancreatitis

Signs of pancreatitis include vomiting, loss of appetite, painful abdomen (which can look like a hunched up appearance, or the dog may posture like the yoga pose downward dog), lethargy, and fever.

Pancreatitis can be acute, meaning it comes on all of a sudden with no warning, or chronic. Acute pancreatitis can be severe and life-threatening. Many of these dogs must be hospitalized for intravenous fluids and supportive care. Chronic pancreatitis tends to cause waxing, waning symptoms repeatedly over time. Chronic pancreatitis requires careful, long-term management.

Signs of worsening pancreatitis in dogs include:

  • Protracted vomiting not controlled with medication
  • Unrelenting abdominal pain despite pain meds
  • Weakness
  • Shock
  • Abnormal bleeding (due to disseminated intravascular coagulation)
  • Collapse
  • Trouble breathing
  • Death

If you believe your dog is suffering from pancreatitis, get to the veterinarian immediately. This is an emergency. Call the clinic on the way to give them a heads up that you’re arriving. (This is yet another reason to know the name, phone number, and location of the nearest 24/7 emergency veterinary clinic.)

Pancreatitis also occurs in a chronic-active form, with milder symptoms that come and go. These dogs will intermittently need the help of antiemetic and pain-relieving medications and should always be fed low-fat food forever.

Causes of Canine Pancreatitis

The most common cause of pancreatitis in dogs seen in general veterinary practices is dietary indiscretion with ingestion of high-fat food, aka getting into the garbage or stealing butter or other high-fat foods off counters.

Other causes of pancreatitis include hormone imbalances, certain medications, trauma to the abdomen (like if dog is hit by car), and obesity. Some breeds are more predisposed to pancreatitis than others including Miniature Schnauzers, Yorkies, Poodles, and Cocker Spaniels.

Risk Factors for Pancreatitis

Schnauzers sometimes suffer from a condition called hyperlipidemia, which predisposes them to pancreatitis. Otherwise, predisposing factors for pancreatitis include:

  • Obesity
  • Diabetes
  • Cushing’s syndrome (overactive adrenal glands)
  • Some medications

Diagnosis of Pancreatitis

If your dog is showing signs of pancreatitis, your veterinarian will likely take an abdominal X-ray to rule out other potential causes. Baseline blood work is done for the same reason. Your veterinarian may also run a blood test called specific canine pancreatic lipase (SPEC cPL), which is much more sensitive and specific for pancreatitis than the older tests veterinarians used to have to rely on (lipase, amylase). Many veterinary hospitals can run this test in-house. With results immediately available, your dog can get the treatment he needs right away.

For chronic cases, your veterinarian may recommend an abdominal ultrasound, as this can provide useful information regarding severity, which helps in determining prognosis.

Treatment for Pancreatitis in Dogs

Treatment for acute pancreatitis in dogs usually involves hospitalization. Intravenous fluids are administered to combat dehydration, restore circulation to the pancreas and aid healing, and to prevent shock.

Pain management is of the utmost importance. Pain medications are administered by injection in the hospital because vomiting dogs cannot hold down medications.

Anti-nausea and anti-vomiting medications (antiemetics) are also administered by injection. Once vomiting has stopped, small amounts of low-fat food will by started by mouth.

Panoquell-CA1 (fuzapladib) is an intravenous medication conditionally approved by the FDA for treatment of acute pancreatitis in the veterinary hospital. This drug prevents damaging white blood cells from entering the pancreas where they exacerbate the damage to the inflamed organ. This is exciting news, as anything that helps prevent worsening pancreatitis in dogs is paramount to a successful outcome with this serious illness.

Dogs who recover from severe, acute pancreatitis may suffer from diabetes in the aftermath, depending on how severe the damage to the pancreas was (remember, the pancreas produces insulin).

Once the pancreatitis is under control, your veterinarian may discuss low-fat dietary changes with you to for long-term maintenance.

The 5 Best Dog Martingale Collars for Escape Artist Pups

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Martingale collars are designed to prevent dogs from slipping out of them.
Fit, durability, and comfort are all important factors when picking out the best martingale collars for dogs. Credit: Jae Thomas

If you’ve ever had a dog slip their collar and run off into the sunset, a martingale collar might be a good pick for your four-legged escape artist. When I first adopted my rescue dog, Miso, she panicked at pretty much everything: loud noises, bikes, and men walking by us on the sidewalk among other things. Miso was originally from a shelter in Kentucky and was transported to a rescue in New York City where I adopted her, so the new environment was extremely loud and scary for her.

Because she was so nervous, I wanted to make sure she wouldn’t back out of her collar if something scared her. She had absolutely no recall and was so easily frightened that she was a flight risk. From the day that she came home, I made sure that she wore a martingale collar, also known as a limited-slip collar, as a safety precaution.

What is a Martingale Collar?

Martingale collars look similar to standard flat collars with the addition of a small section that tightens when pulled. Unlike a slip lead or slip collar, martingale collars only tighten a fixed amount—usually a few inches. These kinds of collars are good options for dogs who might be considered flight risks or those who are gifted at getting out of their collars.

“A martingale collar can add an extra safety component over a standard collar,” says Emily Martin, owner and trainer at Pawsitively Pets, located in Denver, CO.  “Often rescues will use martingale collars when working with new dogs to add a layer of safety and prevent collar slipping.”

While martingale collars can be used with an added level of safety in mind, they aren’t a magic tool. “These collars aren’t 100% non-slip proof,” says Martin. “There are always a few Houdini dogs out there that can more or less get out of anything.”

If you and your dog could benefit from the added safety factor of a martingale collar, read on for the best ones WDJ has hands-on tested.

Traits We Want in a Martingale Collar

With any dog product, fit is an important factor. Similar to flat collars, you should follow the two-finger rule when sizing a martingale collar. That means that when properly sized, you should be able to fit two fingers underneath the collar, but that it shouldn’t be able to slip over the dog’s head. With that being said, collars that have a wide variety of available sizes were prioritized — especially for martingale collars that can’t be adjusted or need to be pulled over dogs’ heads.

Durability and comfort are both paramount for dog collars, so we looked for high-quality materials that were flexible and soft enough for comfortable wear, but durable enough not to take damage in day-to-day testing. We thoroughly tested the material, closures, and attachment points of each collar on our list for flaws over multiple weeks.

We also evaluated how easy or difficult each martingale collar was to put on, take off, and adjust. Because martingale collars tighten when pulled on, they can pose a safety risk to dogs when left on them while they’re alone. This makes easy removal even more important, so pet parents are encouraged to remove collars when they’re done walking their dog. Buckle martingales were the winner in these tests — not only are they easier for humans to put on and take off their dogs, but they’re also good for dogs who are head-shy.

The Best Martingale Collars

WDJ RatingProduct and MakerPriceSizes and ColorsNotes
Ruffwear Web Reaction martingale dog collar with buckle.$2011 - 14 Inches
14 - 17 Inches
17 - 20 Inches
20 - 23 Inches

3 colors
(Basalt Gray, River Rock Green, Blue Pool)
An easy on/off buckle, durable fabric, reflective stitching, and a strong leash attachment point make the Ruffwear Web Reaction collar the best martingale collar for most dogs. The martingale section on this collar is just big enough for safety — it offers enough cinching that a dog can’t back out of it but doesn’t go overboard.
Ruffwear Chain Reaction martingale dog collar$2511 - 14 Inches
14 - 17 Inches
17 - 20 Inches
20 - 23 Inches
23 - 26 Inches

3 colors
(Basalt Gray, River Rock Green, Blue Pool)
Though the chain on this collar gives more room when loose and less room when tightened than other collars we tested, we found that the chain is mostly unnecessary. The materials here feel very heavy duty, but the chain tangled in long double coats during testing.
Non-stop Dogwear Rock Collar 3.0$33Xxsmall
(27 - 32 cm)

Xsmall
(31 - 36 cm)

Small
(35 - 40 cm)

Medium
(39 - 45 cm)

Large
(44 - 50 cm)

XL
(48 - 55 cm)

XXL
(53 - 60 cm)

XXXL
(58 - 65 cm)

1 Color
(Black)
This design is light and breathable, yet durable. Though it doesn’t have a buckle and can’t be adjusted, it comes in eight different sizes making it suitable for most dogs. The HexVent mesh fabric is ventilated for hot summer days, and it dries incredibly quickly if your dog takes a dip in a lake or stream. It’s easy to put on and take off if measured properly, and during testing, it did not cause matted hair or chafing.
2 Hounds Buckle Martingale Collar (Cherry Blossoms)$16⅝”, 1”, 1.5”
Small
(10 - 14 Inches)

⅝”, 1”, 1.5”
Medium
(14-18 inches)

⅝”, 1”, 1.5”
Large
(16-20 inches)

⅝”, 1”, 1.5” XL
(20-26)

⅝”, 1”, 1.5” XXL
(26-34 inches)

200+ colors, patterns, and fabrics
This is a good choice for dogs who fit squarely within the size ranges, but we had some qualms about the width offered in the size small collar, since it seemed a tad too thin. The material is softer than the 2Hounds Nylon option, and feels less durable than the Ruffwear Web Reaction, but it makes up for this flaw in solid hardware and a nearly overwhelming selection of design choices.
2 Hounds Nylon Martingale collar$10 - $13⅝” 1” XSmall
(7-11 inches)

⅝”, 1” Small
(10-14 inches)

⅝”, 1” Medium
(14-18 inches)

1” Large
(16-20 inches)

1” XL
(20-26)

1” XXL
(26-34 inches)

200+ colors, patterns, and fabrics
The budget pick of the bunch, the 2 Hounds Nylon Martingale collars come in an impressive array of colors, sizes, thicknesses, and more. The normal martingale version needs to be slipped over the head and is the cheapest option (starting at just $10). This is a no-frills type of collar, with durable metal hardware, some adjustability, and a classic thick nylon material. If a buckle is non-negotiable, you can upgrade all of the 2Hounds nylon options to buckle collars for a few dollars more

The Best Martingale Collar: Ruffwear Web Reaction

Ruffwear's Martingale Collar is our top pick
Whole Dog Journal tested out five dog martingale collars with Ruffwear’s Web Reaction coming out on top. Credit: Jae Thomas

The best martingale collar we tested was the Web Reaction collar from Ruffwear. It features Ruffwear’s signature durable nylon material, a heavy-duty metal V-ring as a leash attachment point, and has added reflective webbing that makes your pup more visible at night and on busy roads. It also features a plastic side buckle that makes putting it on and taking it off easy, quick, and safe.

In addition to durable construction, we liked the amount of cinch this collar offered in comparison to other options. The collar gets around 2.5 inches tighter when pulled than when it’s loose. We found that this was just the right amount to keep the collar on our dogs and prevent them from backing out of it, but it didn’t choke them or cause any discomfort when sized properly. It comes in sizes ranging from 11 inches up to 26 inches, and is best for medium sized dogs or larger, since it only comes in 0.75-inch and 1-inch widths. Smaller, lighter dogs who need a thinner collar should opt for the similar (but thinner) 2Hounds Buckle Martingale, or the 2Hounds Nylon Martingale for extended small dog sizing if you don’t require a buckle closure.

The Best Budget Martingale Collar: 2Hounds Nylon Martingale Collar

As a budget pick, we like the 2Hounds Nylon Martingale Collar. Its durable construction almost seems too good to be true considering the low price (ranging from $10-$13 depending on size). It has thick metal hardware including a large D-ring for attaching a leash. The normal martingale version needs to be slipper over the head since it doesn’t have a buckle for easy on/off. This makes correct sizing more important than your average collar, and may not be the best pick for head-shy dogs. It comes in nearly 20 different colors and has the largest size range of all the collars we tested, from 7 inches up to 34 inches, with two different widths. The one potential downside of this collar is that the martingale section is quite large, meaning that it tightens quite a bit more than other options on this list when a dog pulls, so it may not be the best pick for dogs who are sensitive to leash and collar pressure.

The Best All-Weather Martingale Collar: Non-stop Dogwear Rock Collar 3.0

We also liked the Rock Collar 3.0 from Non-stop Dogwear, but at $33, it’s best for specific use cases. We’d choose this collar for dogs who need performance in all weather. The Rock 3.0 collar dries incredibly quickly — ideal for pups who like to swim, or sport dogs who may be running in rain, sleet, or snow. The thickness of this collar was preferable to others we tested, since it seemed to distribute light pulling force more evenly around the dog’s neck than thinner options.

The Most Stylish Martingale Collar: 2Hounds Buckle Martingale Collar

There wasn’t quite the ideal size for our medium 45 pound tester dogs in the non-nylon Buckle Martingale Collar from 2Hounds, but it could be a good pick for dogs whose measurements are right in the middle of the size ranges. Our dogs required a size small for the circumference of the collar, but 2Hounds unfortunately only makes small collars in ⅝ inch thickness — which felt too thin for a medium sized breed. The material is much softer and more flexible than the 2Hounds Nylon option, but it also feels less durable than all of the other collars we tested. If you’re looking for a large variety of designs and patterns, this is the collar to get — searching “buckle martingale collar” at 2Hounds yields nearly nine full pages of different colors, patterns and fabric options.

The Best Martingale Collar for Strong Dogs: Ruffwear Chain Reaction

Though we loved its all-webbing counterpart, the Ruffwear Chain Reaction collar felt like overkill. If you have an incredibly strong dog that warrants a thick metal chain collar, a martingale might not be the best tool to use anyway. You’d likely be better off with a different tool while teaching your dog to walk nicely on a leash, or with the Ruffwear Web Reaction collar if a martingale is on your must-have list.

Are Martingale Collars Good for Dogs who Pull?

Martin says that while martingales are sometimes used to teach leash pressure, that this isn’t always the best method. “Personally, as a positive reinforcement-based trainer I do not incorporate martingales in my training plans,” she says. “Some dogs can be very sensitive to pressure that is applied when the collar tightens. I do not use slip collars or martingales unless it is for a safety reason.”

Martingale collars (or any collar, for that matter) aren’t the tool of choice for intense pullers. “When using flat collars, martingale, or slip collars if forceful or constant pressure is applied there is the risk of trachea damage,” says Martin.

A martingale collar will likely not help with your dog pulling on walks. “While many types of collars and harnesses can help decrease the amount a dog pulls, the only true fix is implementing a training program to teach them to walk nicely,” says Martin. “I’ve seen way too many dogs learn how to pull through all sorts of collars/gear and end up choking themselves out on walks.”

Signs of Rabies in Dogs

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Rabies symptoms in dogs start with behavior changes, progress to aggression, and then paralysis.
While direct wildlife encounters are generally rare, they do happen, which makes the rabies vaccination even more important for your dog. Credit: Harvey Anderson

Rabies is a fatal viral disease that is usually transmitted by a bite from an infected animal, although infected saliva simply contacting a break in the skin can transmit it too. The virus travels along nerves from the site of the bite to the central nervous system and brain, and finally to the salivary glands. The incubation period (time from exposure to onset of signs) is highly variable, anywhere from three weeks to six months. Rabies can affect both humans and animals.

Stage 1: Prodromal Phase

The earliest signs of rabies in dogs are anxiety, nervousness, mild agitation, unusual behavior changes, itchiness, and fever. These usually last two to three days before getting worse and include anxiety, nervousness, mild agitation, unusual behavior changes, itchiness, and fever before progressing to the aggression stages.

Stage 2: Rabies Furious Phase

The next phase, called the furious phase, lasts one to seven days with signs including aggression, unpredictability, attacking their crates if confined, snapping at apparently nothing, disorientation, incoordination, tremors and seizures. Depression, lethargy, weakness, and any neurologic derangement (e.g., blindness, circling, head pressing) may occur. Death can occur at any time during this phase.

Stage 3: Rabies Paralytic Phase

The final phase of rabies infection is called the paralytic phase. Dogs will begin to drool as they can no longer swallow. There may be a noticeable change in their voice, they will lose jaw tone and function, and they will become progressively paralyzed. Death usually occurs within two to four days.

It’s important to know that an animal could have rabies virus in their saliva up to five days BEFORE showing any signs of rabies, making it prudent to use caution around any unvaccinated dog who suffers a bite wound from an unknown animal for a full six months.

No Treatment for Rabies

There is no treatment for rabies, which is why the emphasis is on prevention. The foundation of rabies prevention is vaccination. The rabies vaccine for dogs is called a “killed” vaccine. This means there is no live virus in the vaccine so it can never accidentally infect a dog. It also makes the vaccine is generally very safe. Having said that, any time any vaccine is given there is always the risk of side effects.

Reactions to any vaccine may be mild (general malaise and inappetance lasting 24 hours or less), moderate (hives, facial swelling, vomiting/diarrhea), or severe (anaphylactic shock which may be life-threatening). There may be fever and localized pain at the injection site. The rabies vaccine sometimes leaves a bump under the skin (granuloma) which may takes months to go away. And finally, there are reports of a rabies vaccine-induced vasculitis occasionally occurring. Vasculitis is inflammation of blood vessels, and it can result in loss of blood supply to tissue. It starts near the site of the injection and can cause hair loss, swelling, pain, and skin damage.

The first rabies vaccine can be given to puppies at 12 weeks of age. A booster is recommended one year later, then every one to three years depending on state and local laws. Boosters every three years is typically the norm but be sure to check with your veterinarian and local municipality.

Will a Fox Attack a Dog?

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A fox can attack a dog, but it's very unlikely it will.
Seeing a fox while out walking your dog is not unusual. Backing slowly away from the fox, while making a lot of loud noise is usually your best bet. Credit: Henrik Karlsson | Getty Images

If you’ve been seeing more foxes in your neighborhood, you’re not alone. As deer, bear, and fox inch close to our homes during the day, it’s not unusual for a fox to be seen out and about in the daylight. Your first thought might be to be impressed by these beautiful creatures, but your second thought might be, will a fox attack a dog.

Odds are probably not, however, it’s a possiblity that responsible dog owners need to be prepared for and take precautions to prevent.  Most foxes weigh 15 pounds or so and consume mainly fruits, berries, mice, and rabbits. They are skilled hunters and physically gifted athletes. They can run around 30 miles per hour and jump up to six feet high. So, yes, your dog may be a possible target.

Will a Fox Attack a Small Dog?

Foxes do pose more of a risk to smaller pets than large dogs. While foxes are generally shy and avoid confrontations, they are opportunistic predators, and a chirpy Chihuahua or pernicious Pug might look like food, competition for food, or a threat to their young, according to The Humane Society of the United States. If your dog weighs less than 10 pounds, be especially cautious and vigilant if foxes settle in your neighborhood.

Will a Fox Attack a Dog on a Leash?

While you may feel like your dog is a sitting—or walking—target when she’s tethered to you, a fox attacking a dog on a leash is less likely than a fox attacking a free-range dog.  While some dogs are reactive on leash when they feel threatened, in this case restricting movement is a good thing and makes it more difficult for your dog to initiate a fight with a fox.

Your presence to your leashed dog is valuable for two reasons: First, you’re able to intervene if a fox approaches and, second, foxes are wary of humans and will likely avoid a confrontation.

That said, there are still times when leashing your dog won’t prevent an attack. It’s unusual for a fox to be aggressive or fearless around humans, so if the fox seems unafraid, get out of there. The fox may simply be guarding pups or battling rabies.

If you do encounter a fox or other wildlife that doesn’t run away from you, try to:

  • Put your dog on a leash ASAP (preferably, she was already on leash!).
  • Back away from the fox (or other approaching wildlife) slowly. Never turn and run, which experts say make you look like prey.
  • Keep your dog close to you or pick her up, if possible.
  • Be very loud and fierce as you slowly back away, yelling in a deep, scary voice. If you carry a noise device, like a whistle or horn, use it.
  • Make yourself appear as big as possible, such as if you’re wearing a hoodie or large jacket. Put the hood up and hold out your arms. If you happen to be carrying an umbrella, open it.

Be Careful Out There

However unlikely it is that a fox attacks your dog, prevention will put the odds even more firmly in your favor. Four ways to keep your pup safe are:

  1. Never leave a small dog unattended in your backyard, especially at dawn and dusk when foxes are most active.
  2. Close up any holes in fences to deter foxes from entering your property.
  3. If you live in an area with a high fox population, keep your small dog on a leash during walks.
  4. Regularly pick up dog poop around your property and when you’re walking your dog.

Foxes are beautiful creatures, and we are encroaching on their environment. It’s understandable that we see more wildlife on our walks with our dog. Be prepared by knowing what to do if you see a fox when with your dog.

Where to Buy Dogs

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If you are looking to buy dogs be sure it is from an ethical breeder.
If you are looking for where to buy a dog, an ethical, experienced breeder is the way to go. Credit: Image Source | Getty Images

With so many dogs needing good homes, deciding to buy a puppy rather than adopt one from a shelter or rescue can be a controversial decision. In my experience, people choose to buy dogs for several reasons. Many, myself included, get attached to a specific breed or want a dog who is more likely to demonstrate certain traits and behaviors. Often, people feel more comfortable knowing where their dog is coming from, his genetic and health history, and how he has been handled and socialized. That said, if you are looking for where to buy dogs, you have some work ahead of you to ensure that you really are getting the puppy of your dreams and are not supporting breeding practices that lead to poor health, animal abuse, and crowded shelters.

Where Not to Buy Dogs

Before discussing where to buy dogs, it is important to talk about where NOT to buy them. It shouldn’t surprise anyone that puppy mills are at the top of the list of places to never, ever purchase a dog from. The goal of a puppy mill is to produce dogs as products to be sold for profit. The wellbeing of the animals and the overall health and vitality of the breed very rarely play any part in that equation. It’s worth noting that, while the American Kennel Club (AKC) does have a kennel inspection program, not all kennels listed with the organization are inspected and having “AKC registered” animals does not guarantee that a breeder isn’t a puppy mill. You have to do your research and pay attention to any warning signs you might see.

There are a number of things to look for when it comes to identifying a puppy mill including:

  • Lack of cleanliness: While dogs do make unexpected messes, take a look at the overall condition of the dogs themselves and the environment where they are being kept. The dogs should be healthy-looking and well-groomed—nails trimmed, no matted coats, good weight, etc. Bedding, yards, crates, and kennels should be clean. If the breeder won’t let you see where the dogs are kept, walk away.
  • Under-socialized dogs: Dogs present at the breeder’s house or facility should be used to people and comfortable with them. If multiple dogs show signs of being shy, aggressive, or fearful, it is likely that time isn’t being put into socializing and handling them. That will also be true of any puppy you get.
  • Dogs in cages: If it looks like dogs are living in cages, the breeder is likely a puppy mill. A proper kennel will usually have crates where dogs go to eat or rest, but the dogs will spend most of the time (when they’re not in the house sleeping on the couch) in runs or yards where they can move easily and relieve themselves in a different place from where they stand.
  • Many different breeds: Most ethical breeders specialize in only one or two breeds. If a breeder is selling dogs of many different breeds, it should raise a red flag.
  • Dog has had too many litters: Puppy mills will breed a dog as often as they can to maximize profit. Ask how many litters the mother has had. If the answer is more than three, be cautious. It is very rare that an ethical breeder will have four or more litters from one mother—not only can it be hard on her health, it also puts a lot of genetic eggs in one basket.
  • Multiple litters at once: While some bigger kennels have the people-power to properly support more than one litter at a time, most don’t. If there are many young puppies present from several different mothers, the breeder is probably a puppy mill.

Pet stores are another place to avoid when it comes to buying a dog. Ethical breeders will never sell their puppies that way. If the puppy isn’t going to a new home, he should be AT home getting loved on and socialized—not sitting in a store window. As a note, this refers only to stores that offer dogs—usually “purebred” puppies—for purchase. I fully support pet stores that hold adoption events or sponsor adoptable animals in partnership with local shelters or rescues.

Please remember that you are not “saving” a dog when you purchase one from a pet store or puppy mill. You are providing resources for unethical and unhealthy practices to continue. Yes, it’s heartbreaking to see an animal stuck in those conditions but funding the people who create the situation will only make it worse.

Similarly, you should exercise extreme caution if you are thinking about purchasing a dog or puppy from an individual not associated with an established kennel. The odds that the dogs involved were ethically bred and well taken care of just aren’t good.

Where to Get a Dog

The best place to buy a dog is from a good, ethical breeder who specializes in the breed you are looking for. Unless you already know someone, finding the right breeder is going to require time and research. Some breeders have websites but many don’t.

I recommend contacting breed-specific clubs or organizations to see if they have events you can attend or have members who are willing to answer questions. Ask them where they got their dogs and which breeders they might recommend (and why). Going to dog shows can also provide some leads to explore. In addition, check with veterinarians in your area to see if they know of any local breeders with good reputations.

When you do start getting names, don’t be afraid to contact the breeder directly. Have a list of questions ready and be prepared to answer some yourself. If you like them but they don’t have a litter planned, ask if they might be able to recommend someone who does.

Is Breeding Dogs Ethical?

My family has been breeding Airedales for going on four decades so it should come as no surprise when I say I strongly believe that breeding dogs can be done ethically. However, doing it right isn’t easy. Every decision about which dogs to breed and when needs to be made with knowledge and care. Temperament, health, ability, lineage, and conformation all play a part in selecting which dogs to breed—and which dogs not to breed.

To me, following ethical breeding practices means working with veterinarians who specialize in canine reproduction, following protocols for pre- and post-natal care of the mother dog, having the knowledge and skill to identify and respond to birthing complications, and understanding how to support a dog’s physical and emotional development. When the puppies arrive, there should be plans in place to care for, socialize, train, and find good placements for them. As discussed in the main article, there should also always be room for any dog that came from the kennel to come home again.

I believe an ethical breeder only breeds a litter with a goal in mind, taking into account which specific traits they are trying to preserve or eliminate and why. It should not be attempted casually or without the resources to handle any potential problems. Breeding dogs can only be done ethically if the health and wellbeing of the animals is the top priority.

What to Look for in a Breeder

So how do you tell if a breeder is doing their best to breed and raise dogs in an ethical way? Look for someone who:

  • Has a good reputation: Your first introduction to a breeder will often be through the things other people say about them. Listen closely to what people who have gotten puppies from a breeder report about the experience.
  • Conducts interviews: It is a good sign if the breeder asks you a lot of questions before agreeing to sell you a puppy. A breeder should care about where their puppies are going. It is their job to make sure you understand and are prepared for the kind of dog you are getting.
  • Welcomes visits: Look for a breeder who is happy to set up a time for you to come visit the kennel, meet the dogs, and see the puppies. If you live too far away, ask if they might be willing to give you a video tour. At the family kennel, we sometimes set up a webcam so future puppy families can watch their dogs grow up. In my experience, good breeders are excited to show off their dogs.
  • Keeps records: A good breeder will keep extensive records on their dogs—from family trees to health information. These are necessary to ensure that reasoned, informed breeding decisions are being made. While most of this information isn’t usually of much value or interest to non-breeders, a breeder should provide you with any health records related to your puppy including vaccination information and a complete health history. They should also be able to answer questions about the puppy’s parents and why they chose to breed the litter.
  • Willing to discuss common temperament and health issues: Even the best, most ethical breeders can’t produce perfect temperaments and health every time. A good breeder recognizes that and will talk with potential puppy families about issues common to the breed and what to do about any problems that arise. Avoid any breeder who tells you they have never bred a dog with a difficult personality quirk or have never had a dog that suffered from health issues. They either haven’t been breeding dogs very long or they are not being honest with you.
  • Has a plan for problems: Along the same lines, look for a breeder who has a plan for what they would like to have happen if any health issues develop or if the puppy ends up not being a good fit for the family. A good breeder will ask that you tell them about any problems your puppy might develop so that they can better understand any genetic components and help ensure the best life possible for the dog. Make sure you understand and agree with their approach.
  • Plans for the lifetime of the dog: As I recently discussed at length in an article on what to do when your dog is in heat, I believe that a breeder is responsible for any dog born on their watch for the life of that dog. A good breeder will talk to you about what they would like to have happen if the time ever comes when you can’t keep the dog. Most will ask that you bring the dog back to them or, if you’ve found a new home for the dog, that you let them know where the dog will be going.

While finding the right place to buy a dog can be time-consuming, it is worth the effort. Beyond just selling you a puppy, a good breeder can be a source of support and knowledge for your dog’s entire life. And you won’t have to go home wondering about the wellbeing of the rest of the dogs living there.

Can Dogs Eat Shrimp?

Dogs can eat shrimp, but there are some caveats.
In small quantities, shrimp can be a nice treat for dogs. Credit: knape | Getty Images

From head to tail, boiled or fried, crustaceans are delicious, but can dogs eat cooked shrimp? The answer is yes—with reasonable precautions. For most of us, shrimp are a treat, not an everyday meal, and it should be the same for dogs. While shrimp are a good source of protein and contain omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that promote heart and brain health, it’s best to save them for special occasions. Here’s how to share them when your dog is angling for a bite.

Healthy Choices

Boiled, steamed, or grilled shrimp with no spices or sauces is the way to go if you want to share one or two with your dog. Dogs don’t need spicy or sweet sauces to enhance the flavor of shrimp and unusual ingredients could upset their stomach.

Dogs love crunchy, savory foods. Can dogs eat fried shrimp? Because of the higher calories and potentially spicy seasoning, it’s not the best choice for them, but one small bite—not the whole thing—typically isn’t going to cause problems. If you want to give your dog shrimp with crunch while keeping the caloric level low, try air-frying it without breading. Test the temperature before feeding to make sure it’s not too hot.

Avoid giving shrimp on wooden skewers or leaving them where dogs can reach them. If swallowed, the skewers can perforate the wall of the stomach and even migrate out of it, requiring surgical intervention.

Raw vs. Cooked

Raw shrimp is a delicacy in many cultures—including canine—but it comes with risks. Raw or undercooked shrimp can carry bacterial pathogens such as Vibrio and Salmonella. Their effects can be highly unpleasant for humans but rarely affect dogs. However, if you accidentally drop a raw shrimp on the floor and your dog snarfs it up, it’s smart to keep an eye out for problems.

Signs your dog may have eaten contaminated shrimp:

  • vomiting
  • diarrhea
  • lethargy
  • fever
  • appetite loss

Even if dogs don’t show signs of infection, they can shed bacteria in their feces and saliva, potentially spreading it to you or family members. Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling shrimp, dog food (which can be contaminated by salmonella in the manufacturing process), or used pet food and water dishes.

Other Potential Hazards

Vomiting and diarrhea combined with unexplained itchiness could signal that your dog has a shellfish allergy. That’s uncommon, but it is something to be aware of.

Can dogs eat shrimp tails? My dogs have enjoyed them on rare occasions, but in the back of my mind I worried about whether it was okay to give them. Depending on the size of the dog, tails with shells could be a choking hazard and eating too many could cause an intestinal blockage. To be on the safe side, remove the shell first.

Don’t go overboard. Depending on the size of your dog, half a shrimp to one or two is plenty. Treats should make up no more than 10 percent of your dog’s daily calories. The good news for dogs is that unless they’re fried, shrimp are a low-calorie treat.

Proposition: You Don’t Really Want to Train Your Dog

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A dog being trained with a clicker.
Tell me honestly: Have you ever even once used a clicker for training? I’m not judging; I don’t use them myself. But I do use other reward markers and will discuss their relative strengths and weaknesses about them with you all day long, if you’d like. But you probably don’t. Credit: PavelRodimov, Getty Images

It recently occurred to me that most people don’t really want to train their dogs. Sure, almost everyone wants their dog to be reasonably well behaved, but few people are really that interested in training.

This should not be much of a surprise, and yet, to me—a person with a lifelong interest in animal behavior, whose canine companions were her best friends as a small child and who once pursued a horse-training career—it is an actual revelation. The thing that I most love thinking about and talking about and writing about and doing? Most people don’t give it much though at all, no matter how many dogs they have. It seems that most people more or less teach their dogs to sit and call it good. Any other behavioral expectation they have of their dogs just works itself out as their dogs accompany them through their lives.

This idea occurred to me after my car started making a funny noise, and I had taken it to a mechanic for diagnosis and repair. The mechanic quickly identified the problem and fixed it, and as he was explaining the issue to me, and warning me about what to be alert to in the future—and my eyes were probably glazing over—I had this thought: I don’t want to know about how a car works, I just want it to work!  Most people aren’t interested in learning theory and the timing of the dopamine release and whether a dog is intentionally signaling aggression when his hair stands up—but I am fascinated by all of those things and can’t even resist telling you right here and right now that he’s not! The mechanism by which a dog’s hair stands up is an involuntary reflex; it’s a result of how the dog is feeling! He can’t make it happen on purpose! I’d love to tell you more—what it actually does mean and what you can do to help your dog display this less—but you probably don’t actually care, like me and my car.

Maybe I am wrong—and at any rate, I’m likely taking this thought to the wrong people: You guys are probably more like me than the average dog owner. You wouldn’t be reading this post if you weren’t interested in dogs and dog behavior and helping our dogs be happy and to live harmoniously with us. But do me a favor and think about everyone else you know: Do your friends and neighbors actually train their dogs, or seek to know anything credible about dog training?

All About Anal Glands in Dogs

Anal glands in dogs
Dog anal gland secretions have a distinctive fishy odor that can be difficult to remove from fur and furniture. Credit: Emilija Manevska | Getty Images

Anal glands in dogs are two little sacs that sit on either side of your dog’s anus (where the poop comes out). Picture your dog’s anus as a clock. The tail is at the twelve o’clock position. The anal sacs sit at the positions of four o’clock and eight o’clock.

Each anal sac is lined with sebaceous and apocrine glands—the same type of glands found in a dog’s skin. Unlike their skin cousins, anal sac glands produce a secretion that has a foul, fishy odor. Since they are lined with glands, these anal sacs have become more commonly known as “anal glands.”

Anal sacs are located just below the skin surface. They are sandwiched between two muscles that surround the anus. When a dog has a bowel movement, these muscles compress the sacs against the stool as it passes through the anus. It’s like squeezing the bulb of a turkey baster. This action squeezes the contents of each sac through a duct and onto the surface of the stool.

Anal sac secretions act as a scent marker on the surface of your dog’s poop. That scent marker is like a signature or a fingerprint—his anal sac scent marker is unique to him. It gives other dogs information about your dog’s approximate age, gender, health, and hormonal status (for those that are not spayed or neutered).

How to Know When Anal Glands are Full

Anal glands in dogs will continue producing secretions even if the anal sac is full. A full anal sac can feel like a dog has a marble stuck next to his anus. The pressure and pain caused by a full anal sac will make a dog uncomfortable.

Dogs with full anal sacs will try to relieve this pressure by scooting their butt on the floor or incessantly licking their butt just underneath the tail. They are trying to compress the anal sac to expel its contents and relieve the pressure.

Straining to defecate is another sign that your dog’s anal sacs may be full. The pressure created by full anal sacs can make a dog feel like they have to poop, even when there is no stool in the rectum. These dogs will squat and push in an attempt to relieve the sensation of pressure.

Anal sac secretions can range in consistency from liquid to a thick paste. Dogs with anal sacs that are overflowing with a liquid secretion may experience anal sac leakage when they are sleeping. If this occurs, you might find a small, foul-smelling brown spot where your dog was laying.

Some dogs may involuntarily express their anal sacs when they are frightened or anxious. This does not mean that their anal glands are full. Remember those two muscles that surround each anal sac? One of those muscles is under your dog’s control and the other one is not. The anus muscle that your dog does not have voluntary control over may contract when they are anxious or frightened, causing expression of the anal sac’s contents.

How to Express Dog Anal Glands

There are two methods for expressing a dog’s anal glands—the internal method and the external method. Most groomers use the external method. Veterinarians and veterinary technicians use the internal method.

There are a few supplies you will want to have on hand regardless of the method you use to express the anal glands. You will need exam gloves (latex, nitrile, or equivalent), paper towels, and a deodorizer (see the next section for suggestions).

The external method for expressing anal glands is just as the name suggests—squeezing the anal sacs from the outside of the anus. Don the exam gloves and lift your dog’s tail. Place your thumb and index finger on either side of the 4 o’clock position next to your dog’s anus. Gently squeeze your thumb and index finger together until a brown or yellow liquid emerges from your dog’s anus. Repeat for the 8 o’clock position next to your dog’s anus.

The internal method should not be attempted unless you have been shown how to perform it by your veterinarian or a licensed veterinary technician. Don the exam gloves and lubricate the index finger of your dominant hand with K-Y lubricating jelly. Lift your dog’s tail and gently insert your lubricated index finger about one inch into your dog’s rectum.

Feel for a small grape-sized sac at the 4 o’clock position of your dog’s anus. Place your thumb over the anal sac along the outside of the anus. Gently squeeze your thumb and index finger together until a brown or yellow liquid emerges from your dog’s anus. The anal sac should feel like a deflated balloon when it is empty. Repeat for the 8 o’clock position next to your dog’s anus.

Wipe your dog’s rear end clean with a paper towel. You may apply a deodorizer to rid your dog’s rear end of the foul anal gland smell.

How to Get Rid of Dog Anal Gland Smell

As Lynyrd Skynyrd so poetically sang, “Ooh, that smell!” There are few odors as noxious and distinct as the smell of anal gland secretions. That smell can be difficult to erase once it is on your dog’s fur, your clothes, or your furniture.

There are a few tricks that veterinarians and veterinary technicians use to rid your dog’s fur of that awful smell after expressing your dog’s anal glands. My favorite is an ear cleanser called Epi-otic (made by Virbac). Squirt a little Epi-otic on a gauze square and wipe the fur around your dog’s anus. Epi-otic has a pleasant, fresh scent that effectively neutralizes anal gland odor.

I have also used a product called AOE (Animal Odor Eliminator—made by Thornell). This product is available as a spray and a wipe—both can be used on the fur around your dog’s anus. The spray can also be used on surfaces (including fabrics) and as an air freshener.

Health Issues With Anal Glands in Dogs

There are a handful of problems that can affect anal glands in dogs—impaction, inflammation, infection, abscesses, and tumors. Thankfully, anal gland tumors are rare. But anal gland impactions, inflammation (also known as anal sacculitis), infections, and abscesses are fairly common. My very first case as a newly minted veterinarian was an anal gland abscess!

Anal gland secretions initially have an oily, liquid consistency. These secretions can become thick and pasty if they are not naturally expressed from the sac during bowel movements. Thick, pasty secretions clog the duct draining the anal sac. The glands lining the anal sac continue to produce secretions even if the sac is full. A full anal sac with a clogged duct is called an anal gland impaction.

An untreated anal gland impaction can quickly become an anal gland infection. Bacteria make the journey from your dog’s anus to his anal sacs every day. The bacteria comes from the normal skin flora around the anus and the normal gut flora in the colon. They get flushed out with the anal sac secretions when your dog has a bowel movement. But when an anal sac becomes impacted, the bacteria cannot leave. And then bacteria do what they do best—they grow and multiply. This leads to an anal gland infection.

As the anal gland infection intensifies, your dog’s body responds by sending white blood cells to the anal sac to fight the infection. This creates purulent material (also known as pus). The anal sac is now beyond full with both anal gland secretions and pus. The anal sac and the skin over it stretches so thin that both layers rupture, releasing the contents of the anal sac like a volcano. You may notice a small hole with blood and purulent discharge next to your dog’s anus. This is an anal gland abscess.

Anal sacs can become inflamed if they are expressed too often. This is called anal sacculitis. Anal sacculitis causes an increased production of glandular secretions so that the anal sacs fill faster than usual. In general, dogs should have their anal glands expressed only when needed and no more than once a month.

Dogs naturally empty their anal sacs every time they have a bowel movement. As I mentioned before, the muscles around the anus compress the anal sacs against the stool as it passes through the anus. The anal sacs will not be adequately squeezed if the stool is too soft, if the stool is firm but too small, or if your dog is having diarrhea.

Obese dogs may have difficulty emptying their anal sacs. Excess body fat will accumulate around the anus and between the anal sphincter muscles. Instead of compressing the anal sacs, the anal sphincter muscles will compress the layers of fat in the area around the anal sacs.

Dogs that have a skin condition called seborrheic dermatitis may experience increased production of anal gland secretions. These dogs produce anal gland secretions faster than they can get rid of them, leading to an increased risk of developing anal gland impactions, infections, and abscesses.

There are two types of cancer that can originate in the anal glands—anal sac adenoma and anal sac adenocarcinoma. Anal sac adenoma is a benign tumor of the anal gland that does not metastasize (spread) to other areas of the body. Anal sac adenocarcinoma is a malignant tumor that can metastasize to the lungs, lymph nodes, and abdominal organs. Unfortunately, the majority of anal gland tumors are adenocarcinomas.

Anal gland tumors can be detected during a routine physical examination. If a tumor is found, your veterinarian may recommend bloodwork, thoracic radiographs (chest x-rays), and an abdominal ultrasound prior to surgically removing the tumor and the affected anal sac.

Supplements for Anal Gland Health

Dogs that experience frequent anal sac impactions, infections, and abscesses may benefit from a daily anal gland supplement. Anal gland supplements provide a convenient source of fiber. Fiber creates a stool that is firm and bulky. This promotes proper expression of the anal sacs with each bowel movement.

Some anal gland supplements also contain prebiotics, probiotics and omega-3 fatty acids. Prebiotics and probiotics work with fiber to improve stool consistency. Omega-3 fatty acids may help resolve anal sacculitis. Glandex (made by Vetnique) is one of the more popular anal gland supplements that is recommended by veterinarians.

You can also try adding fiber to your dog’s diet to bulk up his stool. Canned pumpkin, cooked squash, and apple slices are good sources of fiber (and tasty, too!). Talk to your veterinarian about how much of these fiber sources to add to your dog’s daily diet.

Anal Sacculectomy

Dogs that have frequent and persistent issues with their anal glands despite medical and dietary therapy may benefit from having their anal sacs surgically removed. This procedure is called an anal sacculectomy.

Possible complications of anal sacculectomy include fecal incontinence, abscess, or the development of perianal fistula. Fecal incontinence is the most common complication and can occur in up to one-third of dogs undergoing an anal sacculectomy. This complication is usually temporary and resolves in the first few weeks. However, fecal incontinence can be permanent. The rate of complications with anal sacculectomy is greatly reduced if a board-certified surgeon performs the procedure.

Other Anal Problems

There are two other conditions that can look like an anal gland issue but are not. Perianal fistulas may look like a ruptured anal gland abscess. Perineal hernias will create a visible swelling along the side of your dog’s anus and look like an anal gland tumor or impaction.

Perianal fistulas are draining tracts that originate between layers of muscle, skin, and other tissues in the anal region. The anal sacs are sometimes involved but not always. Symptoms of a perianal fistula include one or more openings in the skin around the anus with a bloody or purulent discharge. Dogs may scoot their butt on the ground, lick their butt underneath the tail, or strain to defecate. Perianal fistulas can occur in any breed of dog but are most commonly diagnosed in German Shepherds.

Perineal hernias are when a portion of the rectum, intestines, bladder, or abdominal fat are pushed through the muscles around the anus and hind end (also known as the pelvic floor). Symptoms of a perineal hernia are a large, soft swelling on one or both sides of your dog’s anus. Dogs will strain to defecate and may go several days without having a bowel movement.

Perineal hernias can be caused by trauma (such as being hit by a car) and chronic excessive straining to defecate. Although rare, perineal hernias are most often seen in older, intact male dogs that have an enlarged prostate. The enlarged prostate compresses the rectum and the last part of the colon, causing a dog to excessively strain to defecate every time they poop. The chronic excessive straining weakens the muscles of the pelvic floor, causing a perineal hernia.

Thankfully, most issues with anal glands in dogs can be addressed through changes in diet or the addition of an anal gland supplement. Talk to your veterinarian about the best course of action for your dog’s anal gland issues.

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