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All About Anal Glands in Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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0
Anal glands in dogs
Dog anal gland secretions have a distinctive fishy odor that can be difficult to remove from fur and furniture. Credit: Emilija Manevska | Getty Images

Anal glands in dogs are two little sacs that sit on either side of your dog’s anus (where the poop comes out). Picture your dog’s anus as a clock. The tail is at the twelve o’clock position. The anal sacs sit at the positions of four o’clock and eight o’clock.

Each anal sac is lined with sebaceous and apocrine glands—the same type of glands found in a dog’s skin. Unlike their skin cousins, anal sac glands produce a secretion that has a foul, fishy odor. Since they are lined with glands, these anal sacs have become more commonly known as “anal glands.”

Anal sacs are located just below the skin surface. They are sandwiched between two muscles that surround the anus. When a dog has a bowel movement, these muscles compress the sacs against the stool as it passes through the anus. It’s like squeezing the bulb of a turkey baster. This action squeezes the contents of each sac through a duct and onto the surface of the stool.

Anal sac secretions act as a scent marker on the surface of your dog’s poop. That scent marker is like a signature or a fingerprint—his anal sac scent marker is unique to him. It gives other dogs information about your dog’s approximate age, gender, health, and hormonal status (for those that are not spayed or neutered).

How to Know When Anal Glands are Full

Anal glands in dogs will continue producing secretions even if the anal sac is full. A full anal sac can feel like a dog has a marble stuck next to his anus. The pressure and pain caused by a full anal sac will make a dog uncomfortable.

Dogs with full anal sacs will try to relieve this pressure by scooting their butt on the floor or incessantly licking their butt just underneath the tail. They are trying to compress the anal sac to expel its contents and relieve the pressure.

Straining to defecate is another sign that your dog’s anal sacs may be full. The pressure created by full anal sacs can make a dog feel like they have to poop, even when there is no stool in the rectum. These dogs will squat and push in an attempt to relieve the sensation of pressure.

Anal sac secretions can range in consistency from liquid to a thick paste. Dogs with anal sacs that are overflowing with a liquid secretion may experience anal sac leakage when they are sleeping. If this occurs, you might find a small, foul-smelling brown spot where your dog was laying.

Some dogs may involuntarily express their anal sacs when they are frightened or anxious. This does not mean that their anal glands are full. Remember those two muscles that surround each anal sac? One of those muscles is under your dog’s control and the other one is not. The anus muscle that your dog does not have voluntary control over may contract when they are anxious or frightened, causing expression of the anal sac’s contents.

How to Express Dog Anal Glands

There are two methods for expressing a dog’s anal glands—the internal method and the external method. Most groomers use the external method. Veterinarians and veterinary technicians use the internal method.

There are a few supplies you will want to have on hand regardless of the method you use to express the anal glands. You will need exam gloves (latex, nitrile, or equivalent), paper towels, and a deodorizer (see the next section for suggestions).

The external method for expressing anal glands is just as the name suggests—squeezing the anal sacs from the outside of the anus. Don the exam gloves and lift your dog’s tail. Place your thumb and index finger on either side of the 4 o’clock position next to your dog’s anus. Gently squeeze your thumb and index finger together until a brown or yellow liquid emerges from your dog’s anus. Repeat for the 8 o’clock position next to your dog’s anus.

The internal method should not be attempted unless you have been shown how to perform it by your veterinarian or a licensed veterinary technician. Don the exam gloves and lubricate the index finger of your dominant hand with K-Y lubricating jelly. Lift your dog’s tail and gently insert your lubricated index finger about one inch into your dog’s rectum.

Feel for a small grape-sized sac at the 4 o’clock position of your dog’s anus. Place your thumb over the anal sac along the outside of the anus. Gently squeeze your thumb and index finger together until a brown or yellow liquid emerges from your dog’s anus. The anal sac should feel like a deflated balloon when it is empty. Repeat for the 8 o’clock position next to your dog’s anus.

Wipe your dog’s rear end clean with a paper towel. You may apply a deodorizer to rid your dog’s rear end of the foul anal gland smell.

How to Get Rid of Dog Anal Gland Smell

As Lynyrd Skynyrd so poetically sang, “Ooh, that smell!” There are few odors as noxious and distinct as the smell of anal gland secretions. That smell can be difficult to erase once it is on your dog’s fur, your clothes, or your furniture.

There are a few tricks that veterinarians and veterinary technicians use to rid your dog’s fur of that awful smell after expressing your dog’s anal glands. My favorite is an ear cleanser called Epi-otic (made by Virbac). Squirt a little Epi-otic on a gauze square and wipe the fur around your dog’s anus. Epi-otic has a pleasant, fresh scent that effectively neutralizes anal gland odor.

I have also used a product called AOE (Animal Odor Eliminator—made by Thornell). This product is available as a spray and a wipe—both can be used on the fur around your dog’s anus. The spray can also be used on surfaces (including fabrics) and as an air freshener.

Health Issues With Anal Glands in Dogs

There are a handful of problems that can affect anal glands in dogs—impaction, inflammation, infection, abscesses, and tumors. Thankfully, anal gland tumors are rare. But anal gland impactions, inflammation (also known as anal sacculitis), infections, and abscesses are fairly common. My very first case as a newly minted veterinarian was an anal gland abscess!

Anal gland secretions initially have an oily, liquid consistency. These secretions can become thick and pasty if they are not naturally expressed from the sac during bowel movements. Thick, pasty secretions clog the duct draining the anal sac. The glands lining the anal sac continue to produce secretions even if the sac is full. A full anal sac with a clogged duct is called an anal gland impaction.

An untreated anal gland impaction can quickly become an anal gland infection. Bacteria make the journey from your dog’s anus to his anal sacs every day. The bacteria comes from the normal skin flora around the anus and the normal gut flora in the colon. They get flushed out with the anal sac secretions when your dog has a bowel movement. But when an anal sac becomes impacted, the bacteria cannot leave. And then bacteria do what they do best—they grow and multiply. This leads to an anal gland infection.

As the anal gland infection intensifies, your dog’s body responds by sending white blood cells to the anal sac to fight the infection. This creates purulent material (also known as pus). The anal sac is now beyond full with both anal gland secretions and pus. The anal sac and the skin over it stretches so thin that both layers rupture, releasing the contents of the anal sac like a volcano. You may notice a small hole with blood and purulent discharge next to your dog’s anus. This is an anal gland abscess.

Anal sacs can become inflamed if they are expressed too often. This is called anal sacculitis. Anal sacculitis causes an increased production of glandular secretions so that the anal sacs fill faster than usual. In general, dogs should have their anal glands expressed only when needed and no more than once a month.

Dogs naturally empty their anal sacs every time they have a bowel movement. As I mentioned before, the muscles around the anus compress the anal sacs against the stool as it passes through the anus. The anal sacs will not be adequately squeezed if the stool is too soft, if the stool is firm but too small, or if your dog is having diarrhea.

Obese dogs may have difficulty emptying their anal sacs. Excess body fat will accumulate around the anus and between the anal sphincter muscles. Instead of compressing the anal sacs, the anal sphincter muscles will compress the layers of fat in the area around the anal sacs.

Dogs that have a skin condition called seborrheic dermatitis may experience increased production of anal gland secretions. These dogs produce anal gland secretions faster than they can get rid of them, leading to an increased risk of developing anal gland impactions, infections, and abscesses.

There are two types of cancer that can originate in the anal glands—anal sac adenoma and anal sac adenocarcinoma. Anal sac adenoma is a benign tumor of the anal gland that does not metastasize (spread) to other areas of the body. Anal sac adenocarcinoma is a malignant tumor that can metastasize to the lungs, lymph nodes, and abdominal organs. Unfortunately, the majority of anal gland tumors are adenocarcinomas.

Anal gland tumors can be detected during a routine physical examination. If a tumor is found, your veterinarian may recommend bloodwork, thoracic radiographs (chest x-rays), and an abdominal ultrasound prior to surgically removing the tumor and the affected anal sac.

Supplements for Anal Gland Health

Dogs that experience frequent anal sac impactions, infections, and abscesses may benefit from a daily anal gland supplement. Anal gland supplements provide a convenient source of fiber. Fiber creates a stool that is firm and bulky. This promotes proper expression of the anal sacs with each bowel movement.

Some anal gland supplements also contain prebiotics, probiotics and omega-3 fatty acids. Prebiotics and probiotics work with fiber to improve stool consistency. Omega-3 fatty acids may help resolve anal sacculitis. Glandex (made by Vetnique) is one of the more popular anal gland supplements that is recommended by veterinarians.

You can also try adding fiber to your dog’s diet to bulk up his stool. Canned pumpkin, cooked squash, and apple slices are good sources of fiber (and tasty, too!). Talk to your veterinarian about how much of these fiber sources to add to your dog’s daily diet.

Anal Sacculectomy

Dogs that have frequent and persistent issues with their anal glands despite medical and dietary therapy may benefit from having their anal sacs surgically removed. This procedure is called an anal sacculectomy.

Possible complications of anal sacculectomy include fecal incontinence, abscess, or the development of perianal fistula. Fecal incontinence is the most common complication and can occur in up to one-third of dogs undergoing an anal sacculectomy. This complication is usually temporary and resolves in the first few weeks. However, fecal incontinence can be permanent. The rate of complications with anal sacculectomy is greatly reduced if a board-certified surgeon performs the procedure.

Other Anal Problems

There are two other conditions that can look like an anal gland issue but are not. Perianal fistulas may look like a ruptured anal gland abscess. Perineal hernias will create a visible swelling along the side of your dog’s anus and look like an anal gland tumor or impaction.

Perianal fistulas are draining tracts that originate between layers of muscle, skin, and other tissues in the anal region. The anal sacs are sometimes involved but not always. Symptoms of a perianal fistula include one or more openings in the skin around the anus with a bloody or purulent discharge. Dogs may scoot their butt on the ground, lick their butt underneath the tail, or strain to defecate. Perianal fistulas can occur in any breed of dog but are most commonly diagnosed in German Shepherds.

Perineal hernias are when a portion of the rectum, intestines, bladder, or abdominal fat are pushed through the muscles around the anus and hind end (also known as the pelvic floor). Symptoms of a perineal hernia are a large, soft swelling on one or both sides of your dog’s anus. Dogs will strain to defecate and may go several days without having a bowel movement.

Perineal hernias can be caused by trauma (such as being hit by a car) and chronic excessive straining to defecate. Although rare, perineal hernias are most often seen in older, intact male dogs that have an enlarged prostate. The enlarged prostate compresses the rectum and the last part of the colon, causing a dog to excessively strain to defecate every time they poop. The chronic excessive straining weakens the muscles of the pelvic floor, causing a perineal hernia.

Thankfully, most issues with anal glands in dogs can be addressed through changes in diet or the addition of an anal gland supplement. Talk to your veterinarian about the best course of action for your dog’s anal gland issues.

Best Paw Balm for Dogs

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Dog paw balm helps protect dog paws from the environment.
Paw balm for dogs can be used to help protect pads from extreme weather, terrain, and some health conditions. Credit: miriam-doerr | Getty Images

Your dog’s paw pads act like the soles of our shoes, cushioning your dog’s stride and protecting her paws from damage. Weather conditions, strenuous activity, and some health conditions can all damage or strain your dog’s pads, making them unable to do their job effectively. Paw balm can help.

Does My Dog Need Paw Balm?

Palm balm for dogs is generally used for two purposes: softening an abnormally dry and hard pad or protecting the pads from conditions that could cause dryness and cracks. Most dogs do not need paw balms on a regular basis.

Dog paw balms are not a solution for cut pads or paw infections and they won’t protect your dog completely from extreme weather conditions. But they can provide an extra layer to help give the pads an extra boost so they can do their job.

Ice and Snow

Winter dries out dog paws just like it dries out our skin. Senior dogs in particular tend to get dry, cracked pads during the winter and may benefit from paw balm to soften the pads and keep them flexible (bonus—healthy, pliable pads will give your senior dog better grip and footing!).

For our younger, active dogs, playing outside in the winter exposes their paws to ice, snow, and ice melt products that can all dry out the pads. Balls of snow and ice may also become lodged between your dog’s toes, which is uncomfortable. Paw balms can be used to help keep the pads moist and soft, and also to prevent snow from sticking to the paws.

Hot Surfaces

Hot sidewalks and rocky paths can dry out your dog’s pads, especially if most of your dog’s walks are on hard surfaces. Paw balm can help to prevent the pads from developing cracks and will also provide a little protection from the heat.

To prevent burns to your dog’s paws during hot weather, encourage her to walk on grass when possible. Keep her moving when she is on hot surfaces so that her paws do not have sustained contact with the ground. If you have to spend a lot of time on hot surfaces, teach your dog to wear protective booties.

Rough Terrain

Many of our dogs love to run and play in natural areas, but rough ground can pose a threat to our pups’ paw pads. Running over hard surfaces can cause abrasions to the pads and gravel or other rough terrain can promote cracks and small cuts. Rocky terrain is the obvious one, but even packed dirt during a drought can be tough on paws.

If your dog is going to be running on hard ground for the first time in a while, or if you expect the terrain to be rough, you can apply paw balm to help keep the pads soft and resilient. Paw balms will also provide a little protection from some rough surfaces.

Hyperkeratosis

Hyperkeratosis is a condition where your dog’s body produces excess keratin. This usually occurs on the paw pads and/or nose. Keratin is what helps to make your dog’s pads so durable, but you can have too much of a good thing.

Dogs with hyperkeratosis look like they have hairy growths on their feet, but the “hairs” are thick and firm. These are rogue strands of keratin.

Some breeds, such as Bulldogs, Pugs, Boxers, Cocker Spaniels, and Labrador Retrievers, are predisposed to this condition, but it can affect any breed or mix. Hyperkeratosis can also be caused by an underlying immune condition or disease.

Once your dog has been checked out by a veterinarian to make sure she doesn’t have any underlying health conditions, you can use paw balm to soften the horny growths so that they will wear down as your dog exercises normally. In extreme cases, your veterinarian may remove some of the excess keratin and then have you apply paw balm to moisturize the paws afterward.

How to Apply Dog Paw Balm

Follow the instructions provided by your veterinarian or for your specific product when applying paw balm for dogs. That said, here are some general tips:

  • Warm firm balms in your hand to soften them, then apply a small amount at a time. Rub into the paw pad.
  • Less is more! The balm should be able to soak into the pad and not leave a thick layer of wet, sticky slime.
  • Cover the entire paw pad.
  • To prevent snow buildup, apply the balm between the toes too.
  • Apply paw balm before activities likely to dry out your dog’s paws as a preventive measure.
  • If you notice any cuts, sores, or irritation, stop using the product and contact your veterinarian.

Best Dog Paw Balms

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Here are some products we like:

  • Musher’s Secret has been around for quite a while and is a favorite with mushers and dog sport competitors. It absorbs quickly with no residue but helps to protect the paw from pretty much anything. It is also made with food-grade ingredients and is even safe to apply to dry noses.
  • Dermoscent BioBalm excels at repairing dry paw pads and helping to manage hyperkeratosis. It is made with organic ingredients and has little to no odor.
  • Pawmagik is a beeswax-based product used to protect the paws from ice and snow or heat. It also moisturizes dry pads to help prevent cracks. This product is made by Muttluks, a company also known for its wide range of dog boots to fit every paw protection need.
  • Bag Balm is a household name that works magic for many species—if it’s skin, and it’s dry, Bag Balm can help. Apply a little bit at a time to dry, cracked paws and let it soak in. If you accidentally put on too much, pop a baby sock or a bootie on your dog’s paw to prevent sticky pawprints throughout your house.

No Home Treatment for a Dog Tooth Abscess

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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A dog tooth abscess is a serious condition that requires medical attention.
If your dog has a tooth abscess, he needs veterinary treatment and antibiotics. Credit: Megaflopp | Getty Images

A dog tooth abscess is a painful infection that may resolve with antibiotics but will likely require surgery to remove the problem tooth. No home treatment can resolve a tooth abscess. If not treated and the bacteria in the abscess manage to work their way down into the pockets around the tooth roots, big trouble can start, including additional infections. A tooth infection is an emergency.

Slightly Squishy Swollen Face

An abscess is a pocket of pus, bacteria, white blood cells, and dead tissue that can develop when a wound or other enclosed space becomes infected.

In the case of a tooth root abscess, bacteria find pockets in the gums a perfect place to live—warm, wet, and little-to-no oxygen. The bacteria quickly reproduce, and then the immune system sends in white blood cells to fight the bacteria. All this can damage the surrounding tissues, resulting in a slurry of nastiness that forms the abscess.

Abscesses are painful because of the pressure they exert on the surrounding tissues. Since there isn’t much space in a dog’s jaw, the infection expands where it can around the infected root, usually resulting in a firm lump on the side of the dog’s face.

Any tooth can develop a root abscess, but the canine teeth (the big pointy ones in the front) and carnassial teeth (the big chompers in the back) are the most common culprits. These teeth have long roots that go deep into the jaw. Note: The crown of the tooth is the part that we can see, and then the root extends into the gums and attaches in the jawbones. The deep roots anchor the teeth in place and protect the nerves and blood vessels that keep the living parts of teeth healthy.

Tooth root abscesses usually only occur on one side of the face and will be a firm or slightly squishy swelling. The swelling may feel warm to the touch, and your dog will likely be uncomfortable and not want to have his face handled.

Symptoms of a Dog Tooth Root Abscess

  • Firm swelling on the side of the face, usually midway between the nose and eye or under the eye
  • Not wanting to chew on that side of the mouth
  • Poor appetite
  • Rubbing at the face
  • Fever
  • Acting subdued and uncomfortable

Treatment

Small tooth abscesses may resolve with antibiotics alone. If you suspect your dog has a tooth root abscess, take him to a veterinarian to make sure that is truly what is going on. An abscess can often be diagnosed via exam alone, but your vet may also recommend a skull X-ray to look at the jaw and see where exactly the problem is.

Antibiotics may be able to kill off all the bacteria and clear the infection, but a deep-seated infection can be difficult to clear. If the tooth abscess does not respond to antibiotics or if the swelling returns, your veterinarian will recommend scheduling a dental cleaning and extraction to remove the infected tooth.

Removing the infected tooth does several things. First, it removes the damaged tooth, which is probably painful if the nerves have been breached by the infection. Second, it opens up the area so that the abscess pocket can be flushed clean, physically removing bacteria and debris so the pocket can heal.

You will notice that your dog feels better within days after the dental extraction.

There is no effective dog tooth abscess home treatment. Unless the abscess bursts, you cannot access it to clean out the bacteria and dead tissue causing the trouble, and the bacteria will continue to thrive. take him to a veterinarian to make sure that is truly what is going on

What to Do if Dog Tooth Abscess Bursts

If a tooth root abscess goes untreated, it will continue to grow. For shallower teeth, like the incisors or premolars, the abscess may eventually drain into your dog’s mouth. But for those canine and carnassial teeth, it is a long way from the tip of the root to the surface of the gum. This is why abscesses around these teeth show up as bumps on the side of the dog’s face. Given enough time, some of these abscesses will burst through the skin and cause an oozy, bleeding mess.

A ruptured abscess is gross, but it does relieve the pressure on your dog’s face and jaw and open up the area. Your vet will flush and clean the wound, then prescribe antibiotics to kill any remaining bacteria and speed up healing.

Your dog may still need to have the affected tooth removed, as a root damaged by an infection can continue to be vulnerable to future abscesses.

Kangaroo Dog Food, a Potential Solution for Food Allergies

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Kangaroo meat dog foods provides a novel protein that may help allergic dogs.
Kangaroo meat is a good protein source in dog food, but the geographic location of wild kangaroo herds (Australia) makes it more expensive and difficult to source. David and Micha Sheldon | Getty Images

The quest for novel and alternative protein sources for use in pet nutrition has led to the emergence of kangaroo dog food using kangaroo meat. A novel protein to most dogs. With its unique nutritional profile and potential health benefits, kangaroo meat has garnered attention as a protein source for dogs with specific dietary needs, sensitivities, or allergies.

Kangaroo meat, sourced from wild kangaroos native to Australia, is a red meat that has been used as staple in the diets of indigenous Australians for centuries. With its lean protein content and rich nutrient profile, kangaroo meat has gained popularity as a premium protein source for pets as well, particularly dogs.

A Low-Fat and Low-Calorie Dog Food

Kangaroo meat offers several nutritional advantages that make it a good option for use in dog diets, including being a low-fat and low-calorie dog food. Kangaroo meat is exceptionally lean, containing high levels of high quality, highly digestible protein with minimal fat content. This makes it an ideal ingredient for dogs who require a low-fat diet due to health conditions or for those who need to lose weight.

Due to its low-fat content and high protein-to-calorie ratio, dog food made with kangaroo can help support weight loss and management efforts in overweight and obese dogs. The lean protein found in kangaroo meat helps to support lean muscle maintenance and development while minimizing fat deposition, aiding in weight loss while supporting muscle mass.

In addition to being a rich source of protein, kangaroo meat also provides many essential nutrients including iron, zinc, vitamin B12, and omega-3 fatty acids. When compared to chicken breast, kangaroo is comparable in protein content, while being higher in iron and lower in fat.

Kangaroo Dog Food For Allergies

One of the most helpful applications for kangaroo meat is as a novel protein. Many dogs suffering from food allergies or sensitivities are reacting to the animal proteins present in the diet. Owners of these dogs often struggle to find a novel protein source that will not trigger a worsening of symptoms. Compared to more common protein sources like beef, lamb, and chicken, kangaroo meat is less likely to trigger an allergic response, making it an excellent choice for pets managing allergies or sensitivities. Subscribers can learn more about the Whole Dog Journal Approved Dry Dog Foods and Approved Wet Dog Foods in our online reviews and use our searchable database to find the ingredients you want, like kangaroo.

While kangaroo dog food offers multiple benefits, availability and cost are two factors that may negatively impact its use. Depending on the geographic location, kangaroo dog food may be harder to source than dog food made with more traditional protein sources. Pet owners may need to seek out specialty pet stores or rely on online retailers to purchase kangaroo-based pet products. Kangaroo meat also tends to be more expensive than traditional protein sources, like chicken or beef. Sourcing and shipping novel proteins such as kangaroo add to the ingredient costs, which is then passed along to the consumer.

Kangaroo meat as a high-quality, novel protein in dog food provides a promising option for pet owners seeking a low fat or alternative protein source for their pets. With its lean protein, rich nutrient profile, and its potential for use as a novel protein, kangaroo meat offers multiple benefits to support the nutritional health and well-being of our beloved canine companions.

Home Remedies for Itchy Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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A dog can itch for several reasons, and home remedies for itchy dogs need to address the cause.
Once you have identified the underlying cause of your dog’s itchiness, there are a number of home remedies that can be used to help. Credit: chris-mueller | Getty Images

When itching starts, consider what might have caused that reaction. Home remedies for itchy dogs might help, but only if they address the cause of itching. If your dog has been getting frequent baths, the problem could be soap residues or products that strip the coat of its natural oils, leaving skin dry and irritated. Flea and mosquito bites cause itching, and so can environmental allergens like dust, mold spores, and pollen. Infections, including yeast infections, can trigger vigorous scratching. And if foods are the culprit, your dog may itch because of reactions to dairy products, wheat, soy, or specific proteins. Once you understand an itch’s underlying cause, addressing it can reduce ongoing problems. To help speed your dog’s recovery, the following home remedies are worth a try.

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera, known for its ability to soothe sunburns, rashes, and other skin conditions, is widely sold and considered safe for topical use with pets. Aloe vera juice or gel (ideally a single-ingredient product made without additives) is easy to apply where its anti-inflammatory properties can reduce redness, cool hot skin, and speed the healing of minor abrasions. Simply work aloe vera into your dog’s skin with your fingers or a rubber bath brush and let the coat dry.

Herbal Teas

Popular skin-soothing herbal teas include chamomile, calendula, comfrey, lavender, St. John’s wort, and green tea. Peppermint is a cooling herb, so in addition to smelling good, it helps take the heat out of any itch that feels warm to the touch. These herbs are widely sold in natural food stores, online, and in some supermarkets. They are compatible with one another, so you can use them in any combination.

To make an effective herbal rinse or skin spray, place 6 teabags or 6 teaspoons of dried herbs in a 1-quart glass jar. Fill the jar with boiling water, close the lid, and let the tea stand until it cools to room temperature. Alternatively, place the herbs in a 1-quart ceramic tea pot, fill it with boiling water, and leave its lid on until the tea cools.

Strain the tea and use it as a final rinse after bathing or spray it onto your dog’s wet or dry coat, working it in well so it reaches the skin. Let the coat air dry, then gently brush your dog.

My favorite herbal tea for rinsing dark-colored dogs like my black Lab contains equal parts calendula, comfrey, and St. John’s wort. Chamomile tea is recommended for dogs with brown, beige, or red coats. Because herbal teas can stain light or white coats, try a different method for your light-colored pup.

Oatmeal Baths

By far the most recommended home treatment for a dog’s itchy skin is an oatmeal bath. To try this traditional remedy, pulse or grind 1 cup of plain, unflavored instant, quick, slow-cooking, or steel-cut oatmeal in a blender, coffee grinder, or food processor at the highest setting until the oats form a very fine powder.

Fill a tub or sink with warm (not hot) water to a level that will be comfortable for your dog. Add the oat powder to running water while the tub is filling and stir well to disperse it. With your dog in the tub, use a cup or small bucket to pour the bath water over his body, massaging it into his skin. If possible, keep him soaking for 5 to 10 minutes.

If a tub doesn’t work, loosely wrap your dog in a towel, gauze fabric, or T-shirt that you soak with oatmeal bath water. Let the fabric stay in place for as long as possible while pouring oatmeal water over it to keep it wet. Rinse your dog well with warm water, then dry your dog with towels and, when the coat is completely dry, gently brush it.

Herbal Oatmeal Variations

Any of the dry herbs mentioned above can be combined with oatmeal to add anti-itch benefits to the bath. For example, to 1 cup of raw oats you could add 1/4 cup of dried lavender blossoms, then grind, blend, or process the combination to a fine powder. Follow the instructions for giving an oatmeal bath.

Apple Cider Vinegar

Apple cider vinegar or ACV contains a dark, cloudy substance that resembles dusty cobwebs. Called the “mother,” this substance contains naturally occurring pectin and apple residues that form strand-like chains. Raw and unfiltered, cider vinegar is usually beige or brown in color. It can be diluted half-and-half with water or, if stronger measures are needed, applied full-strength to itchy dogs.

Apple cider vinegar cools the skin when applied to burns, wounds, hot spots, and itchy areas. It can be sponged onto a dog’s coat after a bath to remove soap residues and improve hair condition. Raw apple cider vinegar’s acidity and live enzymes are said to kill bacteria that cause dander and other flaking skin conditions. Soak the coat to the skin and let it air-dry. This same treatment is said to repel fleas and ticks.  Please note that apple cider vinegar will stain the coats of lightly colored dogs, so for white dogs, substitute distilled white vinegar.

If your dog has sensitive skin, test a square inch of bare skin by applying a small amount of vinegar. Check the area every few hours for up to 24 hours. If redness or irritation develops, dilute the vinegar and try again or discontinue use. This type of patch test is not necessary when applying vinegar that will be washed or rinsed off within a few minutes.

Vinegar/Herbal Tinctures

You can combine treatments by mixing apple cider vinegar with dried herbs to create a tincture, which is a concentrated herbal extract. A simple way to do this is to place 1 cup of dried herbs, such as any combination of chamomile, calendula, comfrey, lavender, St. John’s wort, or green tea, in a 1-quart glass jar. Fill the jar with apple cider vinegar and leave it in a warm, dark location, such as a kitchen cupboard, for at least two weeks. Shake the jar or turn it upside down every day to distribute its contents. When ready to use, filter the tincture through cheesecloth or gauze and store in a cool, dark location.

To use an herbal tincture on your itchy dog, dilute 1/4 cup tincture in 1 cup water and apply it to your dog’s wet or dry coat. Work it in with your fingers or a rubber bath brush, let it dry, then brush your dog.

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Astringent Healing Skin Rinse

Here is a recipe from herbalist Gregory Tilford, co-author of the book Herbs for Pets: The Natural Way to Enhance Your Pet’s Life  for an effective skin rinse.

Combine equal parts juniper leaf or uva-ursi leaf, calendula flowers, and peppermint leaf in a glass or stainless-steel pot. Cover the herbs with water and bring it to a gentle boil over moderate heat. Simmer for 10 minutes, then remove from heat and allow it to stand until cool. Strain the cooled fluid through a sieve, then soak the dog’s skin and coat and let the dog drip-dry.

Add Essential Oils

In her book Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals, Kristen Leigh Bell recommends German chamomile essential oil (also called blue chamomile) for its skin-soothing, anti-inflammatory effects on allergic reactions and skin irritations; lavender essential oil for its gentle, anti-itch and relaxing effects; and peppermint for its relief of pain and itching.

Essential oils are not water-soluble, so they float to the surface of water or vinegar, but you can dissolve them with a small amount of alcohol. Don’t use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol for this purpose but rather vodka or another neutral distilled spirit. For example, add 4 to 6 drops of lavender, German chamomile, or peppermint essential oil to 1 tablespoon vodka, then add that combination to 1 cup of herbal tea rinse, apple cider vinegar, or diluted vinegar tincture.

Carbonated Water

Here’s something even simpler. According to Karen Becker, DVM, in her book The Forever Dog Life, plain carbonated water can be an effective remedy for itchy skin because it increases blood flow without negatively affecting any skin functions. Just apply and let dry.

Baking Soda Paste

Baking soda, also known as sodium bicarbonate, can be mixed with an equal quantity of water to create a paste. Apply the paste to itchy areas, let it stand for 15 minutes, and then rinse. For extra moisturization, replace the water in this formula with aloe vera juice or gel. Baking soda isn’t toxic in small quantities, but preventing your dog from licking it is a good idea.

Helping Your Dog Feel Better

Dry skin in dogs contributes to dull coats, dander, hair loss, skin odor, and injuries that result from excessive scratching. Simple, effective home remedies can help itchy dogs of all ages look and feel better.

How to Teach a Dog to Come When Called

By
Kate O'Connor
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2
Teaching a dog to come reliably is one of the most important skills to teach.
A reliable recall can take time to teach but the rewards are worth it. Credit: supersizer | Getty Images

How to teach a dog to come when called is simple…at least in theory. In reality, newer handlers—and plenty of experience ones, too—often struggle with feeling like the process is taking too long or that the dog isn’t ever going to come back reliably. Understanding what you are trying to accomplish, getting to know the individual dog you are working with, and having the patience to not jump ahead too quickly are invaluable tools when it comes to teaching a good recall.

The goal with a recall is for the dog to respond to the “come” cue automatically, enthusiastically, and without hesitation. This is safety-critical behavior. especially for off-leash walking. If your dog gets out through an open door and heads toward a busy road, for example, coming to you when you call her could save her life. So how do we teach a dog to reliably come when called?

How to Teach a Dog to Come

  1. Pick a cue: Before you start working on teaching your dog to come, you’ll need to pick the word you want to use as a cue. Until the behavior you want is established—meaning your dog comes when called—do your best to avoid using the cue word to call her outside of training sessions. Don’t use it sitting around the living room or outside in the backyard as a “test” to see if she understands it yet. If the dog gets used to hearing the word and not responding, you’ll need to start again with a different cue. The same is true if you’ve tried teaching a recall before but it hasn’t really stuck. Pick a new word and try again. “Come” and “here” are common choices for recall cues.
  2. Charge the cue: “Charging” a cue essentially means adding value to it. We do this by teaching the dog that something good is coming when she hears the cue. To begin:
    1. Get some treats your dog really likes.
    2. With your dog standing or sitting close to you, say the cue word in an excited voice.
    3. When your dog looks at you, give her the treat.
    4. Repeat 10-15 times.
    5. Do this several times a day for roughly 2-3 days.
  3. Ask the dog to follow: Once the cue is charged, you will begin asking your dog to follow along with you while you are moving. For this step, the goal is to have your dog chase excitedly after you for 5-10 feet. To teach it:
    1. In a quiet, low-distraction environment, put your dog on a leash. I use a 6-foot nylon lead clipped to a flat collar or martingale—do NOT use a choke chain or slip lead that could tighten around her neck if she runs past you or stops suddenly.
    2. With her standing near you, give her the cue (“Come!”) in the same excited voice you used to charge it.
    3. At the same time, quickly move several steps away from her. The leash should remain loose the whole time. Avoid dragging her or tugging on the leash—it’s only there to keep her from wandering off.
    4. When she follows, run—or walk quickly for a smaller dog—a few more steps with her.
    5. Reward her. If your dog likes toys, a game of tug can add some fun and excitement to the lesson. Treats are also a good option.
    6. Practice for 5-10 minutes several times a day—I try to aim for three short training sessions six days a week.
    7. Repeat for 3-4 days.
  4. Add distance: This step increases the distance between you and your dog before asking her to come:
    1. Put your dog on a leash.
    2. Get some distance between you and your dog. If she starts anticipating the game and won’t let you move away from her, you can toss a treat on the ground a few feet away and tell her to “Get it” (or whichever cue you use to let her know it’s okay for her to eat it). If you use this method, let her eat the treat before asking her to come so she’s not torn between two attractive options.
    3. With the dog somewhere around 5 feet from you, use your cue to call her.
    4. When she comes toward you, move quickly away just as you did on the previous step.
    5. When you and your dog have run together for about 10 feet, reward her.
    6. Practice for 5-10 minutes several times a day.
    7. Repeat daily until she is running toward you consistently.
  5. Move to a long line: The goal here is to increase the distance between you and your dog even further:
    1. Put your dog on a long line instead of a leash—once again, the long line is only there to prevent the dog from wandering off and getting distracted. It shouldn’t be used to pull the dog toward you. As a note for those who haven’t encountered them before, a long line is a flat, super-long leash, usually at least 10 feet in length—I use a 30-foot horse lunge line, but a smaller dog might need something lighter-weight. A long line is NOT the same thing as a retractable leash and they are not interchangeable.
    2. Repeat the same process as the previous step (call your dog, move away quickly, run 10-15 feet together, reward), but start with 10 feet between you.
    3. Practice for 5-10 minutes several times a day until your dog is coming enthusiastically from 10 feet away and then increase the distance to 15 feet, then 20 feet, and so on.
  6. Remove the leash: It’s time to go off-lead:
    1. Pick a quiet, low-distraction location in the house or other location where the dog is contained. Do not assume that because your dog did great on the long line that she’ll be just as good without a leash.
    2. Start with your dog close to you just as you did during the “ask your dog to follow” step.
    3. Cue her in an excited voice and quickly move several steps away.
    4. When she follows, take a few more steps and reward her.
    5. Practice this for several days.
    6. Repeat the “add distance” step minus the leash.
    7. Practice for 5-10 minutes several times a day until you’re sure she’ll come quickly and easily with 5 feet between you.
    8. Increase the distance between you to 10 feet, 15 feet, etc.

Adding Distractions

Once your dog has mastered coming when called on and off the leash in a quiet, contained environment, you can begin to add distractions. Start with small things, like another person standing quietly in the room or a less-valued toy sitting off to one side on the floor. If your dog successfully ignores these distractions, you can slowly make it more difficult by having your helper move around, make some noise, or talk to the dog. If you are training alone, you can do things like throw toys or place small obstacles—I use more toys or cones—along the dog’s path.

This is also a good time to start training in locations—such as your backyard or a park—that offer more natural distractions. As with the human-made distractions discussed above, start slowly with locations that are just a little bit more interesting than where you started and build up. Keep your dog on a leash or long line when practicing outside of the house or fenced yard.

If your dog gets distracted and fails to come back to you at any point, put her back on the leash and practice distraction-free recalls for a day or two and work your way back up. It can be tempting to rush it, especially if your dog seems to be doing well and progressing quickly. However, one of the biggest tricks when it comes to teaching a reliable recall is to not try to do too much too soon.

A Note on Rewards

Rewards for recall training should be things the dog values a lot such as a favorite toy or a treat she gets rarely and finds particularly tasty. It also helps to vary the rewards. If the reward for the first round of recall practice was boiled chicken, the next may be a super-fun tug toy, and so on. Given that having your dog come when you call is one of the best tools for keeping her safe, success in recall training should yield high-value rewards.

Recall Games

There are a number of great games to play that can make teaching a dog to come when called much more fun and engaging for both dog and handler. You can mix these in with the training steps covered above. I like to do two short sessions a day for “regular” recall practice and one for a game session.

  • Keep Away: In most ways, keep away is a high-energy version of the same thing we’ve been doing in recall training. To begin, have your dog sit in front of you. Take one step back and call her to come. When she does, ask her to sit in front of you again and reward her. Practice that for a few days until she’s regularly sitting in front of you when you call her. Then, immediately after you have rewarded her for sitting, turn 90 degrees and run a few steps, calling her again. Let her catch up and reward her. Immediately turn in the other direction and repeat the process, encouraging her to run back and forth with you, stopping and rewarding her when she “catches” you at each direction change.
  • Hide-and-Seek: Start by finding a hiding spot—pick an easy one to begin with such as just stepping out of the room beyond the dog’s line of sight. Once you are “hidden,” call your dog enthusiastically. When she comes to find you, praise her and reward her with a treat or toy. As she becomes familiar with the game, move to more difficult-to-find hiding spots.
  • Search-and-Return: Also called the “whiplash head turn” exercise, the goal with this one is to have your dog turn toward you quickly no matter what else is happening. You’ll need two types of treats for this game—something that the dog likes okay (like regular kibble) and something she LOVES (like hot dog). To play, start with your dog near you and toss one of the ‘okay’ treats a short distance away. Say something like “Get it” or “Search” as you prefer (pick one word to avoid confusion) to let her know it’s okay to eat it. Allow the dog eat the treat and, right as she is finishing, say “Yes!” and offer her the treat she loves. Repeat several times, picking up the pace to add excitement.
  • Round-Robin: This game requires at least two humans. To begin, stand about 10 feet away from your training helper. If you have multiple people helping, stand in a loose circle with the dog in the middle. Take turns calling the dog to come, rewarding her when she gets to you. Once she gets comfortable with the game and is regularly coming to the person who calls her, you can begin to increase the distance between people and have them move to new spots.

For a more detailed description of how to play these games, along with several other great recall exercises, see “Games for Building Reliable Recall Behavior for Your Dog.”

How to Teach a Stubborn Dog to Come

“She’s just being stubborn!” is a phrase I hear a lot when people tell me they are struggling with how to teach a dog to come. The truth is, there are lot of reasons a dog gets labeled stubborn and, while it’s certainly among the personality traits dogs can demonstrate, it’s rarely the whole story when it comes to why a particular dog isn’t picking up a desired behavior. Understanding what is contributing to your dog’s unwillingness to do what you are asking of her can go a long way toward figuring out how to teach her. Factors that play into how quickly a dog learns a cue can include:

  • Breed: It helps to be aware of the genetic factors that might predispose your dog to certain types of behaviors. Humans have bred dogs for specific tasks for a long time. Behaviors that fit with what a breed was developed for are often easier for members of that breed (and mixes of that breed) to learn while behaviors they were not bred for may be more difficult. As an example, a Jack Russell terrier may be called stubborn if she refuses to come whenever a rogue squirrel flicks its tail in her direction. However, humans have been selectively breeding these terriers for their rat-catching instincts for generation upon generation. Asking her to ignore a small, scurrying rodent is like asking a Border Collie not to herd. It’s possible, but those instincts will make it much harder since she must first learn a whole lot of self control to overcome her natural drive. For more on teaching self control see “Help Your Dog Learn Self Control.”
  • Intelligence: Nobody likes to admit that their beloved dog might not be a genius learner, but the truth is that some dogs are better able to figure their way through a problem than others. Sometimes, a lack of understanding can be mistaken for stubbornness. Again, this is not to say that a less naturally intelligent dog can’t be taught. It just might take additional time, repetition, and patience.
  • Learning Speed: Separate from intelligence, learning speed varies from individual to individual. Some very smart dogs take time to process and assess a task while others seem to jump right in and want to try new behaviors immediately. Pay attention to what your dog does over several days of training sessions. A dog who isn’t ready to attempt a behavior may just need a bit more time to think it through. It can help to switch back to practicing a cue she knows well before trying the new one again.
  • Individual Preference: As anyone who has lived with a dog for long knows, dogs have their own likes and dislikes. A behavior that is fun for one—such as racing back to her handler when called—may not be nearly as exciting to another who perhaps prefers to sniff interesting scents. It’s normal to avoid behaviors that don’t seem like much fun in favor of those that do. If your dog doesn’t seem very interested in recall training, try keeping training session short and fun with better treats, speaking in an excited voice, and favorite toys.

Practice, Practice, Practice

There are no shortcuts to a reliable recall. When you are teaching your dog to come when called, it’s going to take a lot of repetition. Daily practice will make all the difference. Even when your dog knows the cue, you’ll want to do regular refreshers to make sure the behavior stays sharp.

Most Satisfying Moments in Dog-Ownership

By
Nancy Kerns
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5
Well trained dogs make leash walking a calm and relaxed time.
Their leashes are taut at this moment, but they aren’t pulling. I generally use longer (6-foot) leashes, which is probably why the leashes aren’t more slack, but I really like these 4-foot ones from Baumutt, which are comfortable in the hand and light.

Of course we love our dogs 24/7, but we’re not always swollen with pride over them. Seeing our beloved companions snack on some cat poop, or (I think it’s worse somehow), their own poop, can bring us down to earth again, but for a moment, let’s celebrate the stuff that makes dog-ownership such a gratifying experience.

Two training accomplishments above all others are the most pleasurable for me—and thus the most important for me to work on with my dogs: a tack-sharp recall and the ability to walk on leash without pulling. These are the two skills I practice—and highly reinforce—the most frequently. Truly, I do almost no other training with them, unless I need to teach them to do something to illustrate an article in WDJ!

We practice recalls daily. Some are just for practice, though I look for real-life opportunities to call them away from distractions such as squirrels, utility workers (such as meter readers or people delivering packages). But other opportunities are genuine, such as when I call them away from barking at someone who is walking by our (fully fenced) rural property, or, on an off-leash walk, calling them back to me immediately after they’ve spotted a deer or jackrabbit on the trail ahead.

One of the most beautiful moments in my dog-owning lifetime happened recently, and as a direct result of all of our practicing. I was on an off-leash walk with two other people and three other dogs, and my dogs went over the riverbank we were walking near to get a drink of water. Suddenly, Boone, my younger dog, came bounding up the embankment, bouncing like a kangaroo and looking very aroused. I ran a few steps to the edge of the embankment and looked for Woody.

I was very surprised to spot two figures swimming downstream in the river: In the lead was a large male deer with a big rack of antlers, and about 10 feet behind him, Woody. They were both swimming strongly, and the current of the river, swollen by California’s generous winter rains, was taking them downstream at quite a clip! My companions both shrieked, “Oh my god! Nancy! Woody!” I shouted at them to SHUSH! so Woody could hear me, and then yelled, “WOODY, OFF! HERE!” To my friends’ amazement, and my absolute delight and relief, Woody immediately made a graceful U-turn in the water and swam for shore (the deer kept swimming and we saw that he was going to make the far shore easily). Upon reaching shore, he shook off and bounded back up the embankment, seemingly full of pride and happiness at having flushed the deer into the river. I know had tears of pride and happiness in my eyes about his recall! That was one of those instances where I dumped the entire contents of my bait bag into my hands and let him have ALL the treats.

Much less dramatic, but nearly as pleasurable: Walking with my dogs on a loose leash. I am fine with them walking ahead of me, as long as they are not pulling, and they are fantastic at this skill. My sister who lives far away from me was visiting this week, and she’s not a huge dog-lover, but even she noticed and complimented me on how easy it was to take a walk with me and my dogs. She said, “I have some friends who spend the whole walk yelling at or struggling with their dogs, and I don’t enjoy walking with them, because they won’t go without their dogs and their dogs are not fun!”

Well mannered dogs are a delight around children.
Woody is drawn to babies like a magnet. He’s happiest when a baby likes being licked by his giant tongue.

Here’s another moment that fills me with pleasure: When Woody is allowed to greet babies or small children. He is a giant softy, drawn to the small and unsteady. If a parent is game, and their children are reaching for him, I allow him to greet them how he likes to, by licking them in the face or on their sticky hands. His tail is always wagging, his body loose, his eyes soft; he just loves children, even if they shriek at his tongue or grab at his face. Not every parent trusts a big, big-headed dog making right for their baby’s face, it takes some courage and trust in me as his handler, but I know I can count on his consistently kind, gentle response. If I see that a child looks apprehensive, I can ask him to sit still and let them approach him, but his tongue will start licking the air before they even reach him. (However, he can and will restrain himself from licking them if I insist.)

What are your favorite moments with or watching your dogs?

How to Handle Dog Skin Conditions

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Dealing with a dog's crusty skin condition can be unpleasant.
If you notice itching, crusting, or hair loss, you can try an over-the-counter medicated shampoo and flea control (if you see fleas), but if you don’t see immediate results, you need to contact a veterinarian. Credit: Bun_Visit | Getty Images

Dogs can have many different skin conditions. Some skin problems are minor and easily fixed, while others are trickier to diagnose. Some may be controllable but not curable, while others can be cured. Diagnosing skin problems in dogs takes a good detective, which starts with you, the dog owner. One thing’s for sure, don’t wait if your dog is losing hair or has abnormal skin crusting or scaling.

At-Home Simple Remedies

It makes sense with any skin condition to begin with basic treatment options, like parasite control if you see fleas. Medicated shampoos, mousses, and creams can help provide many dogs with comfort to relieve itching and act as therapy as well.

If you don’t see immediate results and these simple treatments don’t help, it’s time to bring in the veterinarian—the longer you wait, the more out of control the skin condition may become.

When you get to the veterinarian’s office, be prepared to give as thorough a history as you can, including when and where you think the problem started and any changes in your dog’s life that might help your veterinarian narrow things down to the most likely causes first.

In many cases, skin scrapes and fungal cultures are done. If necessary, antibiotics or antifungals may be prescribed. For difficult cases, cytology, biopsy, and/or bloodwork (for endocrinopathies, more on that below) may be suggested.

Corticosteroids or NSAIDs (nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) may be used, at least initially, to provide your dog some relief, especially if he is highly pruritic (extremely itchy). While some skin problems aren’t curable, most can be managed to provide a reasonable quality of life for your dog.

Fleas First

The first step is to rule out external parasites. William Miller, Jr., VMD, emeritus professor of dermatology at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, says he has seen that most hair loss in dogs is related to biting, itching, and chewing due to parasites such as fleas and mites.

Some dogs will do minor biting and licking, primarily around the tailhead and in the groin area with a flea infestation, but dogs with a flea allergy will dramatically “go to town” and end up with bare, oozing patches of inflamed skin from even one flea bite. Crusty patches follow as the skin secretions dry up.

How to Check for Fleas

To check for fleas, look deep into the dog’s coat for small, brown fast-running insects. They can most easily be seen if you roll your dog over and look at the relatively hairless groin area. You can also scruff the hair over your dog’s back while standing on a white sheet of paper or other light-colored surface. Flea dirt, a mixture of flea poop and flea eggs, looks like salt and pepper and feels a bit gritty. If you add a drop of water, it will turn pink from the blood in the flea poop.

Be sure to check all the pets in the household as they can all share fleas. You will need to treat all the pets and the house and will want to consider using a flea preventative.

Mites on Dogs

Detecting mites usually requires a visit to your veterinarian for skin scrapings to locate the mites imbedded in the skin. Sarcoptic mange mites cause intense itching but are difficult to find even with a skin scrape. Mites are contagious, so multiple pets may be itching.

If your veterinarian strongly suspects sarcoptic mange, which is caused by mites, he or she may dispense treatment even if no mite is found. Topical treatments have now pretty much replaced the old sulfur baths and dips.

Bacterial Infections

Staphylococcus species of bacteria are the most common bacterial skin infections. These can cause patchy crusts and itching on their own or occur secondary after damage from your dog traumatizing his skin. While bacterial infections do respond to antibiotics, the rise of antibiotic-resistant staph species has led to an increased interest in handling these infections with topical therapy, such as medicated baths.

Depending on the severity of the skin condition and if your dog has other health problems, you may need to do both oral antibiotics and baths to get rid of the bacterial infection. A culture to isolate the exact bacterial species involved and determine which antibiotics it is susceptible to may be recommended, especially for severe or recurrent cases.

Fungal Infections

Fungal infections include both ringworm and yeast. Classic ringworm causes round, patchy areas of hair loss, often with dry crusts. (Cats are more susceptible to ringworm than dogs, so check your cats too.) Your veterinarian may use a special light to look for fluorescence and do a culture from a hair in the affected area to make the diagnosis.

Yeast Skin Infections

Yeast infections tend to be moist, oozing patches that rapidly expand. Crusts are soft and easily displaced. Typical “hot spots” (moist eczema) are most common in hot, humid weather, often a combination of bacterial and yeast infections. Treatment for yeast and fungal infections generally starts with topicals such as medicated baths, but some dogs will require oral antifungal medications as well.

Seborrhea In Dogs

Seborrhea can be the bane of existence for some dogs, just as it is in some people. In dogs, there are two versions of seborrhea. One is primary and has no treatment but can be managed medically. The other is secondary to a different primary skin problem. Once the primary problem is resolved, the seborrhea will clear as well.

Sometimes seborrhea is oily, due to the overproduction of sebum by skin sebaceous glands. In this case, your dog has flaky skin with soft crusts. The hair coat can feel oily when you pet your dog. Dry seborrhea is like dandruff in people with lots of dry skin flakes and crusts. Seborrhea often responds to medicated shampoos.

Infections in Otherwise Normal Skin

Some canine skin conditions come with what appears to be normal skin. In other words, no rash, oozing areas, or itching noticed. Dr. Miller says dysplasia of the hair follicles and endocrinopathies such as Cushing’s disease and hypothyroidism as possible causes of these problems.

Black-hair follicle dysplasia is noted in a wide range of breeds. As expected from its name, it primarily affects black hair. Signs may be evident as early as 4 weeks of age. This is an autosomal recessive genetic trait, meaning it can occur in males and females and both parents, while appearing normal, are carriers of the defect. Other dogs can manifest different variations of hair follicle dysplasia, usually starting slightly older, around 2 to 4 years of age. Unfortunately, there is no treatment for inherited skin problems beyond simply medical management.

Dogs with diseases of the endocrine glands like the thyroid or pancreas that cause hair loss and crusts often require skin biopsies and bloodwork for a definitive diagnosis. These problems can be medically managed, and your dog may return to a normal, or nearly normal appearance. Auto-immune problems can also cause skin eruptions.

As stated earlier, the sooner you get any abnormality on your dog’s skin or hair treated, the better. These infections can spread quickly, and your dog—and you!—will both be miserable.

Talking Buttons for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Dog talking buttons can enable dogs to communicate simple needs to their owners.
Can dogs really be taught to communicate their wants and needs using dog talking buttons? Credit: Bogdana Pashkevich | Getty Images

The talking button craze began when speech language pathologist Christina Hunger applied the same technology she used with children to her puppy, Stella. Hunger taught nonverbal children how to use talking buttons to express and explain themselves in a Language Acquisition through Motor Planning program called Augmentative and Alternative Communication, or AAC. With practice, Stella caught on and could soon tell Hunger what she wanted or how she felt. Today, Stella knows more than 50 words and arranges them in endless combinations.

By the time her book How Stella Learned to Talk was published in 2021, Hunger and Stella had appeared in People magazine and had thousands of internet fans. Today,  Hunger’s website offers information, talking buttons, accessories, online training, and instructions for dog lovers.

Followers of Hunger’s methods have produced their own books, videos, blogs, demonstrations, and appearances on social media. But are their dogs really using human language?

To examine talking buttons scientifically, Federico Rossan, director of the Comparative Cognition Lab at the University of California, San Diego, has spent four years collecting data for an independent study of dogs and talking buttons. When published, its results may settle the debate about whether dogs are truly using human speech. In the meantime, fans of talking buttons report improved relationships with happier dogs who enjoy creating meaningful word combinations.

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Getting Started

If you’d like to try for two-way conversations with your dog, several companies sell talking-button starter kits, such as:

Not every dog is a good match for talking buttons, so consider your dog’s age, physical condition, interest in games and puzzles, and ongoing efforts to share requests or information with you. Puppies have a head start as they are constantly in learning mode and interested in trying new things, especially things that have built-in rewards, but older dogs can enjoy talking buttons, too. Pressing the buttons doesn’t require much strength or coordination, but the task can be difficult for very small breeds or dogs with physical challenges. Another consideration is your interest in serious communication, your schedule, and your willingness to add frequent training sessions to your everyday life.

As your dog’s vocabulary expands, it’s easy to add additional buttons, arranging them on a mat or board designed to hold buttons in easily accessible positions. Several talking-button resources offer do-it-yourself instructions, and some manufacturers sell boards that hold buttons securely.

Position your dog’s buttons where they are easy for him to access and not in a busy hallway or noisy part of the house. The closer and more convenient the buttons are, the more likely your dog is to try them.

Most talking buttons allow users to record short words or phrases. Popular first words for starter kits are whatever your dog hears frequently, such as “go for a walk,” “play outside,” “time to eat,” “goodbye,” “bedtime,” or “love you.”

Build Your Buttons Vocabulary

Some talking-button boards are designed to hold 30, 40, or more buttons, but the best way to start is with a single button. The more you press the button and incorporate its word into conversation with your dog, the faster she will learn to press the button herself.

To create a word list, write down the words you use most often when talking to your dog and aim for words that your dog recognizes and enjoys. Choose one to start with and don’t rush to add more words because it takes time for dogs to learn how buttons work and what they mean.

Training Strategies

On her website, Christine Hunger describes three approaches to teaching your pet to talk. The first, called Aided Language Input, models words by playing a recorded button just before or after you say its word. For example, if you want your dog to learn how to say “go outside,” you could press the “go outside” button and say, “Let’s go outside” or “Want to go outside?” and then do exactly that – go outside. Pairing words with actions that match their meaning teaches your dog what the words mean and which buttons produce them.

The second strategy is Focused Language Stimulation, also known as repetition, repetition, repetition. By focusing on a single word during short training sessions, you create opportunities to use it, and all that repetition helps your dog remember it. Hunger recommends modeling the target word dozens of times in a short period.

The third approach she describes is Increased Wait Time. This means waiting patiently while your dog figures things out. Hunger recommends pausing for 15 seconds after each statement as you talk to your pet. As she notes, some of the most successful communication has come at the end of what feels like an eternity of expectant waiting.

Talking Button Books and Support

How Stella Learned to Talk: The Groundbreaking Story of the World’s First Talking Dog by Christine Hunger (William Morrow/Harper Collins, 2021).

Teach Your Dog to Talk: A Beginner’s Guide to Training Your Dog to Communicate with Word Buttons by Stephanie Rocha (Ulysses Press, 2021).

Teach Your Dog to Speak Human: Increase Your Bond with Your Dog by Using Buttons, Soundboards, and Easy Phrases by Lacy Nelson (Kindle Edition, 2023).

The Talking Dog Journal: Track Your Dog’s Progress Learning to Use a Soundboard to Talk (Talking Dog Press, 2019).

Facebook groups devoted to this subject include:

For more on another novel method of communicating with your dog, see “Teaching Your Dog to Read.”

The Importance of Mental Stimulation for Dogs

By
Kate O'Connor
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0
Walks and other activities are good mental stimulation for dogs.
From walks to enrichment toys, there are a lot of ways to provide good mental stimulation for dogs. Credit: alexei_tm | Getty Images

Dog or human, nobody likes being bored. While some boredom is inevitable—this is, after all, real life we’re talking about—proper mental stimulation for dogs can be a significant factor in a their overall quality of life.

Consistent periods of prolonged boredom can be frustrating for dogs, often leading to the dog trying to come up with her own entertainment to feel better. This often results in undesirable behaviors such as constant barking, nipping at human and dog family members for attention, or chewing on the furniture. A lack of mental stimulation can also contribute to a dog becoming disengaged and depressed, which can be harder to identify. How, then, do we provide good mental stimulation for dogs?

Is My Dog Bored?

It’s important to note that a lack of activity doesn’t necessarily mean a dog is bored. Dogs do not need to be entertained every waking moment to be happy. In addition, individuals will have different needs. A high-energy thinker—imagine your stereotypical Border Collie—will likely need a lot of focused mental stimulation to be content. Others, like the lovely who-knows-what shelter dog I grew up with, seem to feel as though just living life (with, in her case, a bunch of active kids around to keep track of) is enough to be going on with.

The goal is to find the right balance of rest, play, and work for your individual dog. Pay attention to her body language and behavior. Some signs a dog might be bored include:

  • Excessive barking
  • Destructive behavior
  • Excess energy/zoomies
  • Overexcitement
  • Listlessness/lethargy
  • Anxiety
  • Short temper/grouchy

Luckily, there are several easy ways to get your dog engaged and mentally stimulated.

Training

One of the simplest ways to provide mental stimulation for dogs is to do some training on a daily basis. For this purpose, it doesn’t really matter what cues you are teaching your dog. Asking her to pay attention and figure out what you want her to do is what engages her brain and gets her thinking. Teaching something new can be especially useful if she seems bored with the cues she already knows. Picking a few simple tricks is a great place to start.

If that seems daunting, remember that training sessions don’t need to be long to be effective—5-10 minutes a few times a day usually works well. For me, I try to get in a brief training session right before the morning walk, another at lunch or when I wrap up work in the evening, and one more before bed. If you’re short on time, even one 5-minute session a day is worth it.

When life is particularly hectic, I have had good luck with signing up for a training class. While it may seem counterintuitive to take on one more thing when you are already really busy, I find that having a set spot on my schedule every week means I am more likely to make time for training. As an added bonus, going to class means my dog gets the extra stimulation of a trip to a new place with other people and dogs to interact with.

Mental Stimulation for Aging Dogs
Mental stimulation for dogs is especially important for senior dogs.
Even at 13 years old, Suki—pictured here in her sweater—loved to socialize and explore. Giving her plenty of safe opportunities to do so helped keep her mentally engaged. Credit: Kate O’Connor

While the way to provide mental stimulation for dogs may change over time, the need for mental stimulation itself does not. Aging and elderly dogs are often at risk of getting less than they need as their ability to move and play diminishes. It can be difficult to find good ways to compensate for the physical and mental challenges that come with old age, but it’s not impossible.

My dog Suki lived to see 13 and a half—a goodly age for an Airedale—but suffered from some health problems that affected her physically and cognitively as she got older. The long, rambling walks we used to go on fell by the wayside and there were times when simple cues she’d mastered as a puppy just didn’t make sense to her. She was still herself—sassy, dignified, and serene—just more frail and forgetful.

I floundered, trying to figure out how to adapt when the routines we’d had since she was a teeny ball of fluff no longer worked. I could see her beginning to disengage and shut down. It felt like I was failing her.

Around the same time, I started her on physical therapy. Before long, she was going to the PT equipment and asking for sessions. She didn’t always remember what she was supposed to be doing but she was all about doing it. I let go of some of my heartache over what she had forgotten and got back into a training routine. I reminded myself that there was nothing wrong with teaching a sit over and over again. It was new and exciting to her each time and that was what mattered.

Suki began to come back to me, becoming more alert and showing more interest in what was going on around her again. I started taking her on short trips. We even went to the beech, which I’d been avoiding since she didn’t have the strength to walk through deep sand. Instead, I carried her down to the edge of the water. She lit up when she smelled the ocean. For 15 minutes she was like a puppy again, playing in the waves and trotting after seagulls. That was all she had the energy for, but she came home happy and content in a way she hadn’t been in far too long.

As she continued to age and weaken, I went back to some of the early development work I’ve done with young puppies. I brought her fun things to sniff, played music she liked (she had STRONG preferences), and offered her objects in a variety of textures to explore as she lounged in her dog bed. We continued to play those games until the very end of her life.

It took time for me to understand that what had been missing was how to provide good mental stimulation for Suki in her senior years. When I got the message, it made all the difference. Her life—and mine—were far richer for it.

Exercise and Travel

Proper exercise is foundational when it comes to keeping your dog in a good mental place. That said, following the same old path, while good for keeping in shape, can get boring. There are a number of ways to make your walks more mentally stimulating:

  • Pick a different route: Even just following your usual path in reverse can make it more exciting for a dog who is used to doing the same thing every day.
  • Pause for training: Ask your dog for the occasional sit, down, or other cue that she knows as you are walking. You can even turn sections of the walk into heelwork practice. Build up the number and complexity of things you are asking for over time and don’t be afraid to get fancy with it. The trick to making a walk truly mentally stimulating is to mix it up and keep it fun. However, not every walk needs to be complicated—be sure to vary this type of “working” walk with more relaxed exploratory walks.
  • Go with friends: If your dog likes the company of other dogs and/or people, see about arranging a group walk. Bringing others along can add a layer of interest to an otherwise commonplace event.
  • Go somewhere different: Taking a walk at a park or around a store that allows dogs is a great way to get some variety.
  • Do something else entirely: If your dog is physically healthy enough, varying the type of exercise she is getting, such as going for a run or swim, can be beneficial.

Travel is another good way to provide mental stimulation for dogs. Even if you’re not going out with the goal of getting some exercise, visiting somewhere new—provided your dog does well in the car—is often an exciting break from the norm. These kinds of experiences engage your dog’s brain by offering a plethora of new things to see, smell, and explore.

Dog Sports

Signing up for a dog sport can be a great source of mental stimulation for dogs and their humans. Along with providing enrichment, participating in a dog sport is one of the best ways to build the bond between handler and dog. It’s also a whole lot of fun! Some of the many options include:

  • Agility
  • Scent work/tracking
  • Fast CAT (Coursing Ability Test)
  • Dock diving
  • Flyball
  • Herding
  • Canicross
  • Rally/obedience
  • Heelwork to music

A good way to get started in dog sports is to find a group or club that is actively involved in the one you are interested in. Such groups often teach classes for beginners or can direct you to a good, knowledgeable trainer who does. Be sure to do your research and make sure the group’s approach to the sport aligns with your own. If you are just looking to have fun, signing up with a highly competitive club—or vice versa—will likely end in disappointment.

If nothing is available in your area, don’t lose hope! There are often online classes or video resources you can use to get started.

Playtime and Socialization

Taking time each day to play with your dog can go a long way toward alleviating her boredom. Playtime is a positive way to connect with your dog and get her thinking about how best to hunt down that ball! If your dog likes toys, you can keep her interest fresh—and keep the toys stimulating—by rotating them every few weeks. Some mentally stimulating games are:

  • Hide-and-seek: In addition to being mentally stimulating, hide-and-seek is a good game for improving a dog’s recall. To play, find a hiding spot—pick an easy one to begin with such as just stepping out of the room beyond the dog’s line of sight. Call your dog enthusiastically. When she comes to find you, praise her and reward her with a treat or toy. As she gets used to the game, you can move to more difficult-to-find hiding spots.
  • Fetch: To teach a dog to fetch, start with an object she is already interested in. Wiggle it around until she’s excited about it, then toss it. Keep throws short to begin with and take a few steps backwards when your dog starts to come back to you. For a more detailed explanation of how to successfully get your dog to play fetch and common mistakes to avoid see “How to Teach a Dog to Play Fetch.”
  • Find it: For the simplest version of this game, you can hide a treat in the palm of one hand, close both fists, and hold them out to your dog. When she noses the correct hand, praise her and let her have the treat. Once she has mastered that version, you can increase the difficulty by hiding a treat under a cup and having her search for it among several similar cups.
  • Tug: When properly taught, tug—where human and dog each take one end of a toy and pull—can be a great, mentally stimulating game to play with your dog. There are a few ground rules to keep it safe and fun for all involved. First, it should be an invitation only game, meaning that unless you initiate the game, don’t play. Next, teach your dog to release the toy when you ask. Keep in mind that tugging should be done sideways, not up-and-down, to avoid spinal injuries and should be kept gentle for puppies and elderly or frail dogs. For an in-depth discussion of how to play tug with your dog see “Eight Rules for Playing Tug of War With Your Dog.”

Playing and socializing with other dogs is also mentally stimulating. Regular playdates with friendly dogs can be a great way to help your dog stay mentally engaged, especially if she is the only dog in the house. It doesn’t have to be off-leash play. Going on walks with friends is good, too.

Mental Stimulation Toys for Dogs

On the play front, there are a lot of toys on the market these days specifically designed to provide mental stimulation for dogs. Interactive puzzle toys in particular can give a dog a lot to think about. As discussed in “The Best Dog Puzzle Toys,” the trick is finding puzzles that are difficult enough to engage your dog without being so hard the she gets frustrated and gives up. You’ll also need to be prepared to help out if she gets stuck and keep an eye on her while she’s working on them, as most puzzle toys are safest when used with supervision.

Food dispensing toys can also offer a lot of entertainment and mental stimulation for dogs. Among the many options available are snuffle mats, kibble dribblers, toys that can be stuffed with food, slow feeders, and electric dispensers. I usually feed my dog several meals a week via snuffle mat or kibble dribbler rather than her bowl—much to her delight.

For more on how to choose the right food dispenser for your dog see “The Best Food Dispensing Dog Toys.”

Dog Life Expectancy After Heartworm Treatment

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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0
Heartworms transmitted by mosquitos can dramatically lessen a dog's lifespan.
Heartworm is transmitted through a mosquito bite. If your dog contracts heartworm, the sooner treatment is started the better your dog’s life expectancy. Credit: taaree | Getty Images

Without treatment, heartworm disease will shorten a dog’s natural life expectancy. With treatment, especially if the disease is discovered early (hence the veterinary recommendation for annual heartworm testing!), many dogs will have close to a normal life expectancy. Even with treatment, once a dog is infected with heartworm, irreversible damage has been done, especially to the lung tissue. The treatment for heartworms is not without risk, and it can be inconvenient and expensive. Prevention is far wiser than risking disease.

Signs of Heartworm in Dogs

Clinical signs of heartworm disease can be easy to miss and vary depending on the severity of the disease but include:

  • Mild cases: May not have any clinical signs, or just a cough.
  • Moderate cases: May include a cough, exercise intolerance, and abnormal lung sounds.
  • Severe cases: May show abnormal heart sounds, difficulty breathing, liver enlargement, syncope (fainting), fluid accumulation in the abdomen, and death

The onset from the heartworm infection to these clinical signs varies depending on the number of worms in, the body size of the dog, and the dog’s activity level. In general, small, active dogs with higher worm burden have it worse.

How Heartworms Hurt a Dog

The harm that heartworms cause in an affected dog’s body includes:

  • Damage to the lungs and the blood vessels in the lungs
  • Dead and dying worms can cause thromboembolic events (clots)
  • Pulmonary hypertension
  • Kidney damage due to accumulation of antigen-antibody complexes
  • Large number of heartworms invading the right side of the heart (severe cases)

Heartworms take up much physical space in the heart and interfere with the proper functioning of the tricuspid valve, thus reducing the ability of the heart to pump blood to other parts of the body. This is called “caval syndrome,” and it is characterized by hemolytic anemia, lethargy, weakness, and other signs of right-sided heart failure. Caval syndrome requires urgent surgical extraction of the worms from the heart to save the patient.

Did You Know?

Heartworm is a parasitic disease of dogs and wild canids, including fox and coyote. It also can affect cats, ferrets, sea lions, and rarely, humans. The immature heartworm nematodes (microfilariae) are passed from an infected dog to another susceptible dog via an infected mosquito. After six to nine months of maturation, adult heartworms are 12 inches long and can start breeding to continue the life cycle. Adult heartworms can live for five to seven years.

Prevent Heartworm

Effective preventatives can prevent this awful disease from affecting the health of your beloved dog. These preventatives are economical and convenient, available in oral, topical, and injectable forms. Some preventatives are combined with flea, tick, and intestinal parasite prevention as well.

Using heartworm prevention as directed by your dog’s veterinarian will help maximize your dog’s life expectancy. More information about heartworm disease, its treatment and prevention can be found at the website of the American Heartworm Society.

Why Is My Dog Losing Hair?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Your dog losing hair is upsetting, but hair loss isn't always harmful.
Regularly brushing your dog’s coat helps remove dead hair and keeps the dog’s coat shiny and healthy. Credit: Petko Ninov | Getty Images

Finding your dog losing hair in patches and scabs can be upsetting. Before you panic, however, remember that alopecia, which is hair loss, in dogs is natural. It’s when you see abnormal skin under those hair clumps that you can worry.

If you see hair loss, first rule out simple causes. Does your dog’s collar or harness rub on an area that is now bald? Does your dog routinely struggle to slide under furniture or fences, thereby rubbing off hair? In these cases, hair loss is generally symmetrical and the skin itself is fine.

Seasonal Alopecia in Dogs

Dogs shed. It’s normal, and the skin underneath is healthy and ready to grow more hair. Natural causes for alopecia include:

  • Routine seasonal sheds, when the coat turns over from season changes
  • The dog’s coat changing from puppy coat to adult hair
  • Coat “blowing” after a bitch has whelped and weaned her puppies

Some dogs will have minimal sheds, while others look like unkept dogs for a bit. Some dogs have what we call “pluckables,” which are clumps of free hair that are easily removed from the dog’s coat. A short-coated dog may just leave a bit of hair on your clothes or hand when you pet them. In these cases, the skin underneath should look normal, the coat overall is affected, and the hair will grow back.

Seasonal sheds/alopecia are affected by temperature and light, which influence the phases of hair growth. Some dogs lose hair faithfully every spring and fall, while others may only do so once a year. While there are products touted to help speed up or reduce shedding, the reality is that a good diet and regular grooming do as much good as any supplement when it comes to seasonal alopecia.

When to Worry About Dog Hair Loss

If the hair loss is patchy and accompanied by scabs, dandruff, inflamed areas, or obvious infection with pustules, seek veterinary help. “The most common cause of alopecia in dogs is trauma from scratching, chewing, pulling, or licking,” says William Miller Jr., VMD, emeritus professor of dermatology at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine.

The bare patches and scabs are secondary to chewing and itching. While some dogs are a bit secretive, most dogs will openly chew their own skin, making you aware you need to find the cause, such as folliculitis. Sebaceous adenitis is a disease of glands in the skin that can cause hair loss.

Dog Hair Loss and Parasites

Fleas and other external parasites lead the list for itchiness in dogs. With careful observation, you should be able to spot fleas. Look for scattering insects as you comb through your dog’s coat. You’ll usually find them around the tailhead or across the thinly haired area of the groin when your dog rolls over. Lice can be seen if you look carefully at hairs and spot the attached nits.

Mites are trickier. Sarcoptic mange mites stimulate severe pruritus but may be hard to find on skin scrapes. One anecdotal way to identify sarcoptic mange is to rub the edges of your dog’s ear together. If that sets off intense scratching, sarcoptic mange is a strong possibility. Demodectic mites are also found by skin scrapes.

Hair-Loss Diseases in Dogs

Once parasites are ruled out, finding the causes for hair loss becomes a bit more involved. Cultures for fungal infections like think ringworm may be recommended or an endocrine panel might be suggested. Endocrine panels might identify hypothyroidism. Some breeds have inherited alopecia conditions such as Alopecia X in Pomeranians, which causes hair loss and pigmentation of the skin.

Itching and scratching, of course, can also be due to allergies, such as from food that doesn’t agree with your dog.

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