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Gastropexy in Dogs

Gastropexy in dogs untwists a dog's stomach. It can be used to treat bloat, or to prevent it.
Bloat is more common in deep-chested dogs, like the German Shepherd, but it can happen to any dog. Credit: UH Photography | Getty Images

You may hear people talk about a surgery called a “gastropexy,” which is done if a dog has bloat. Some dog owners request a prophylactic gastropexy if they have a bloat-prone breed.

What is gastropexy? Gastropexy is a surgical procedure done to “tack” or attach the stomach to the body wall, so it can’t flip or twist. Bloat—a dangerous condition technically called “gastric dilatation and volvulus (GVD)”—is when the dog’s stomach fills with gas and twists. It is life-threatening. If the stomach flips, the odds of a good outcome go down dramatically. See “Bloat in Dogs Is Deadly.”

How Is Gastropexy Done?

Different surgical techniques are used to do gastropexy, but the goal is the same: Develop a permanent attachment of the stomach to the right abdominal wall to hold the stomach in place. This surgery reduces the likelihood of a bloat recurrence from 55% to 4%.

The original technique used stomach-wall flaps that were anchored to a rib. The attachments healed well, but there were often complications.

The current preferred technique fuses an incision in the gastric wall to a matching incision in the abdominal wall. This is a fast procedure, and while slightly weaker than the stomach-wall wrap version, is still very successful.

Twisted Stomach in Dogs

Many, if not most, gastropexies are performed as part of surgical correction for a bloat, especially if there has been a partial or total twist of the stomach. Your dog has had the torsion fixed, tissues including stomach, spleen, and intestines have been checked for any necrotic (dead) tissue, all vital signs are stabilized, and your veterinarian hopes to prevent a recurrence.

Prophylactic Gastropexy in Dogs

Many owners of bloat-prone breeds, such as Setters, Great Danes, German Shepherd Dogs, and even Dachshunds due to their deep chests, will elect to have a prophylactic gastropexy done to hopefully prevent a case of bloat or torsion ever happening. This can easily be combined with spay or neuter surgery, so your dog only has one round of anesthesia. While the procedure may not prevent basic bloat, it should keep the stomach from torsing.

Initially, there were concerns that gastropexy might interfere with normal gastrointestinal motility, but most experienced veterinary surgeons feel this is not the case.

Bloat Prevention in Dogs

An increased risk of bloat has been linked to:

  • History of bloat in a particular breed line (hints to a possible genetic predisposition)
  • Dogs who eat too fast (ingest excess air with the meal)
  • Using elevated feeding bowls (promotes ingestion of excess air with the meal)
  • Feeding dry food with heavy fat/oil content
  • Feeding a large meal vs. multiple smaller meals
  • Exercising on a full stomach
  • Drinking excessive amounts of water at one time

It’s smart to be careful about how your dog eats and drinks. Try to:

  • Feed small meals frequently.
  • Keep your dog quiet after eating.
  • If your dog has been running hard, limit his water intake to small amounts. So, let him drink, walk him a bit, let him drink again, etc.
  • Do not use elevated food or water bowls.
  • Try to minimize stress. Heavy panting may allow your dog to “gulp” a lot of air and predispose to bloat.

There is not much you can do about conformation, so breeds with narrow and deep chests will always have a higher risk. The World Association of Small animal Veterinarians says the lifetime risk for a large or giant breed dog developing GDV is 24% and 21%.

Know the initial signs of bloat, which include:

  • Pacing
  • Panting
  • Drooling
  • Trying to vomit but nothing coming up
  • Abdominal distension

Consider these signs of an emergency and head for the nearest veterinary emergency clinic and alert them that you are on your way with a possible bloat.

My 12-year-old male Belgian Tervuren was in surgery in less than an hour from the first sign I saw of bloat. Thankfully, the clinic was close by and when I got him there, they were ready. He came through from a partial torsion with flying colors and his gastropexy is well healed by now.

Your Dog is Aging. Should You Get A Puppy?

Introducing a puppy to an older dog can be done with patience and care.
Everyone wants to see a beautiful friendship between their old friend and their new pup. To get there, be patient! If you make sure your senior always has the option to escape the puppy—soon enough she may be seeking the puppy out. Credit: Kathy Callahan

As you see your beloved old dog’s muzzle beginning to gray, it’s natural to consider adding a puppy to the household. You’d love for the next generation to learn from the best, and honestly, you’re thinking it would soften the eventual loss to have another dog already in the family.

But balancing the needs of dogs at opposite ends of the age spectrum can be tricky. Sure, sometimes it’s immediate bliss, with the senior feeling revitalized and stepping up to mentor the puppy! But just as often, the elderly dog is miserable with all of the new bouncy energy in the house, and the humans end up feeling divided, and unable to give either dog what they need.

It’s hard to know beforehand where your individual household will fall on that spectrum, but it’s wise to be prepared—so you’re ready to jump in to make it a success after all. Here are some questions to consider as you ponder whether it’s the best time for you to add that puppy to the family. (For much more detail, check out our new book: Old Dog, New Dog: Supporting Your Aging Friend and Welcoming A New One.)

How Will You Protect Your Senior from Puppy Energy?

People reasonably assume that if their older dog has always played well with his buddies, he will love having a puppy to play with at home. But—unlike those solid adult dog friends—puppies have not yet developed their social skills. They constantly jump in faces, bite too hard, grab tender body parts, and pounce unexpectedly. They haven’t yet learned that other dogs don’t enjoy all of that.

Perhaps you’re thinking that your senior dog is just the one to teach the puppy canine manners and communication skills! Well, that can be true, to a point. But the best lessons are taught by a willing professor, not one acting under duress. Expecting your senior to babysit the rude toddler 24/7 is unfair. (After all, the dogs didn’t choose this living situation—the humans did.) If you want your senior to guide well, interacting with the puppy must be optional, or you’ll find your puppy gets the wrong lessons.

Puppies and senior dogs can get along, provided you tire out the puppy.
This is a rare sight: a calm 8-week-old pup earning the tolerance of an 11-year-old senior! Puppies always want the snuggle, but it’s the human’s job to make sure an older dog is okay with this invasion of space. In this case, Eli decided little Cheerio was just fine basking in his magnificence. Credit: Kathy Callahan

And here’s a key point that’s easy to miss: A typical senior has begun to decline physically. Mind you, even if you are a very caring owner, there may be diminishment that you are not aware of! They have anywhere from minor aches to obvious tender spots that they protect. They may have begun to lose some eyesight or some hearing. That means the incoming puppy missile is not just irritating but is, in fact, scary for them. That can result in unwelcoming behavior you never would have anticipated: “Oh my gosh, I’ve never seen her snarl like that!”

So, if you bring a puppy into the household, your first priority is to protect your senior’s peace—both physically and psychologically. If your older dog would normally relax into long naps, but is perpetually on guard because an enthusiastic, full-of-energy pup might barrel in at any moment, we’ve let her down. Just because she’s being “nice” about it—i.e., hasn’t growled, snapped, or bitten—doesn’t mean it’s OK! I often hear folks raving about how tolerant an old dog has been with a puppy, and I keep thinking, “Please don’t put that sweet old soul in a position where she constantly has to tolerate things.” She’s earned her peaceful, undisturbed days.

What can you do in the first weeks and months to set up both dogs for success?

  • Always provide an escape option for your senior.
  • Closely supervise the times the dogs have free access to each other, observing body language closely and cheerily redirecting when either of them is overwhelmed.
  • Never punish your old dog for growling; that’s good communication. If the puppy does not immediately adjust the behavior that elicited the growl, it’s time for you to step in to give your oldie a break by engaging the pup elsewhere.
  • When you can’t actively supervise, separate the dogs. Use pens, gates, crates, leashes, and a division of labor between the humans.
  • Build the dogs’ relationship by leading fun, joint, controlled activities—like a simple three-minute treat-filled training session or a 10-minute sniffari on leash. Dogs feel safer when a situation is predictable, so these moments create a positive association and a feeling of trust.
How to Introduce a Puppy to Your Senior Dog

Want your senior and your puppy to start off on the right paw? Don’t just wing it! Instead, the day before the puppy comes home, create a clear plan for the introduction.

Plenty of people will give you a detailed map of the one way that works. Hogwash. There are countless approaches that can succeed, as long as you commit fully to this principle:

  • AGENCY: Both dogs need to feel that they have the ability to give themselves the distance and time they need to assess the situation.

When you’re holding a puppy tight in your arms, or restraining your adult with a leash, it interferes with their sense of agency. That’s why the best introductions often happen through a see-through barrier (pen, fence, gate) when both dogs have four paws on the floor. That way they each have the option of moving closer to sniff or farther away to observe.

The other general key to success: Be patient. If there’s good body language on both sides—obvious interest, no retreats, loose bodies, play bows—fantastic! Now, though I know you want the answer to be “remove the barrier,” continue to wait! Sometimes, to go fast you have to go slow. The more time you give these two to get to feel comfortable with each other while that barrier is still up, the faster you’ll get to the time when it’s safe to remove that barrier.

(For much more detail, check out our book Old Dog, New Dog: Supporting Your Aging Friend and Welcoming a New One.)

How Will You Enrich (And Tire Out!) Your Pup?

The happiest senior/puppy matches are the ones where the puppy has plenty of outlets—other than the senior—for all that puppy energy and curiosity. There are so many options, and the best approach is to combine them all:

  • Playdates with well-matched puppies or puppy-friendly dogs are absolute game-changers.
  • Brain games. A three-minute training session—sit, touch, spin, through, down, come—does wonders for a bored pup looking for engagement. Throw half a dozen of those into your day and your pup will be less desperate to obsess over your senior in the constant search for fun.
  • Outdoor time. Half an hour spent outside fulfilling natural canine needs (such as sniffing and digging) does wonders.
  • Give your puppy a way to forage “naturally” for food; ditch the bowl and offer meals in the form of food scatters, stuffed Toppls, puzzle toys, and homemade challenges, like kibble hidden in crumpled paper stuffed inside the cardboard box that came today.
  • Goofy human play. Structured games like fetch can be great, but don’t forget to relax and have fun bonding with your puppy by offering play bows, rolling around, etc.

When all of that happens regularly, puppies come back to their senior nicely spent. They say hi to their sweet old dog sibling with a nice sniff, and flop down to relax. Now that’s a puppy an old dog can start to like! You might even finally see the senior actually approach the puppy: “Hey, um, I haven’t seen you much today…”

Can You Make Time for Puppy Socialization?

Brand new puppies who have a senior to toddle after usually take to the idea of a leash walk weeks before singletons do. That’s great!

However, the key role of the first few months of walks is to socialize the pup. This is how we carefully introduce him to the world, helping him feel comfortable with all of the new things he’ll encounter. To do that well, it’s critical to note the puppy’s reaction in the moment and dial the intensity of each experience up or down to meet him where he is. For example, let’s say you want to get your pup to feel comfortable around kids, so you’ve approached a fenced playground where kids are having loud, fast fun. If the puppy is interested and moving toward the sounds, wonderful! If he’s hanging back or turning away, though, you’ll want to stop at a comfortable distance and allow him to observe.

What does that mean for your senior? If your senior is an absolute angel out in the world, and can constantly model a calm, confident reaction to loud trucks, fast scooters, barking dogs, unpredictable kids, and will have the patience to stop, wait, and turn around a dozen times each walk, then your senior is a wonderful addition to your socialization adventures! But for most of us it’s too hard to socialize a puppy well with any other dog also in tow.

So, think about how you might make sure to find time to socialize your puppy well—without depriving your senior. Maybe every day as you head out with your puppy, the pattern is that the senior always gets a frozen stuffed food toy, or special cuddle time with another member of the household.

What about When Your Senior Declines?

It’s natural to wish for new beginnings and some fresh joy when you begin to feel sad that losing your senior is around the corner. A puppy can be just the thing, truly! While the demands of puppyhood are high, there is so much sweetness, laughter, and new life folded into that package.

However, let’s picture that you’re just able to make it work and you’re keeping all of the balls in the air. But then . . . your senior’s health begins to decline. How will you feel as you’re navigating meds and diagnoses and how to best support your old friend—when at the same time you’re trying to find the time and energy to potty-train and socialize a puppy? Maybe it’ll feel like too much. Or maybe switching gears between those two dear dogs at that time is just what the doctor ordered for you. It’s different for everyone. We just want you to take a beat and think it through before diving in.

Of course, we hope your senior has years and years of good time left! You may get all the way through puppyhood with a very healthy senior, and then when she nears the end you’ve got a lovely young adult dog at your side who has been fully shaped by your dear old friend. That’s the dream.

In the Aftermath of a Dog Attack

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Dogs often have a completely different experience at events that their owners regard as happy and fun.
Dogs often have a completely different experience at events that their owners regard as happy and fun. The presence of strangers, noise, high-value resources (such as grilled meats), alcohol, smoke, and countless other factors can produce intense fear and aggression in some dogs. Credit: skynesher, Getty Images

Whenever there is a high-profile dog attack, it seems everyone with a dog weighs in with their opinions about the dog, the dog’s origin, the owners, the specific situation, and the resolution of the event. People share their opinions, variously blaming each party (again, the dog, the place where the dog came from, the owners, the situation…), with almost no useful or accurate information about preventing or dealing with canine aggression resulting from the account or coverage of the event.

We were just presented with an opportunity to use an upsetting high-profile incident as an educational tool. Someone sent us a link to a March 17 Instagram post by Sean Lowe, an American TV reality show personality best known for his role on the 17th season of ABC’s The Bachelor. In the post, Lowe sat with his wife by his side and described two incidents involving their dog Moose, a 7-year-old Boxer the family adopted last Christmas (about three months ago). Lowe was badly bitten by Moose in attacks that occurred just a few hours apart; the dog has been removed from the home to an as-yet undisclosed disposition.

How can a dog who was a much-loved and -trusted companion to a family with three small children suddenly turn on and maul a member of that family—not once but twice? Though every dog owner and trainer alive will express their own opinions, the only people who are professionally qualified to find the answers are veterinary behaviorists, who have advanced education and training in medical and and behavioral diagnosis and treatment.

In an effort to help people understand what factors can contribute to seemingly uncharacteristic aggressive behavior in dogs, and offer information about how to appropriately and safely deal with a dog who has aggressively mauled a human or another animal, we asked a veterinary behaviorist for his professional insights. Chris Pachel is a doctor of veterinary medicine (DVM), a board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVB), and a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (CABC). He is also the owner of the Animal Behavior Clinic in Portland, Oregon, where he and several other veterinary clinicians help people with their animals’ behavior problems.

A Thorough History Is Needed

One of the first things Dr. Pachel wanted us to understand is that an aggressive animal incident cannot possibly be explained from the victim’s or onlookers’ accounts alone. If he or another veterinary behaviorist was engaged by a dog’s owner in the aftermath of a traumatic incident, they’d start with the story of the incident, but then do a deep dive into the dog’s medical, training, and life history. Since Dr. Pachel did not have an opportunity to interview Lowe or examine the dog or the dog’s records, his comments here are speculation meant to demonstrate how complex it is to draw accurate conclusions about what really happened to precipitate the incident.

“It’s never as simple as the story that the witnesses tell,” Dr. Pachel says. “If I were seeing this dog clinically or working with a client on the on the heels of this event, there is much more information I’d need to make an informed diagnosis and recommendations for the treatment or outcome of the dog.”

How Veterinary Behaviorists View Aggressive Behavior

In almost every news story in both print and on TV, the phrase “vicious dog attack” was used in relation to Lowe’s incident. However, Lowe himself described Moose as a loving dog, ordinarily devoted to following Lowe around the house, accompanying him on walks and errands, and just wanting to be petted. But, shortly after a smoke alarm started blaring in Lowe’s home, Moose attacked his owner, causing serious injuries that require a trip to a hospital emergency room. The next day, after being locked out of the house overnight, the dog pushed through several doors and attacked his owner again—again causing serious injuries.

Animal behavior experts are unlikely to use the word “vicious” to describe a dog who usually presents as friendly and comfortable with humans but suddenly bites or even mauls a person. That word, which means deliberately cruel or violent, implies that the animal made a conscious, intentional decision to attack. That’s an improbable thing for a dog who is ordinarily so friendly that he has been trusted to sleep with and play with three small children daily for months.

In most cases where a dog’s behavior became quickly and drastically aggressive, there are precipitating events that exponentially increased the likelihood of such a behavior change—but the events are often evident only to canine behavior experts, or revealed in retrospect under questioning. In the case of Moose and Lowe, there was one obvious trigger—an “insanely loud” smoke alarm siren going off in the house, caused by smoke from an outdoor barbecue wafting into the house from open patio doors. However, it’s highly likely that there were several and perhaps many more factors that had pushed Moose into a stressed, hyper-aroused state well before the alarm went off.

“Trigger stacking” is the phrase that behaviorists and trainers often use to describe the phenomenon that occurs when dogs are exposed to a number of stressful stimuli in a relatively short period of time (from hours to days), leading to heightened anxiety, fear, and aggression. While in Moose’s case, the smoke alarm may have been the factor that tipped his behavior into aggression, the “stack” of factors contributing to Moose’s fall into aggression probably started hours earlier.

Contributing factors could have included anything from the doorbell going off earlier as the barbecue guests arrived, the mere presence of Lowe’s friends in the house, loud and/or boisterous voices, the proximity of high-value food (meats on the grill!), and/or the presence of alcohol and/or smoke from cigars or cigarettes. “All of those are potentially cumulative and sequential arousal triggers,” says Dr. Pachel.

In Lowe’s account, it was the blaring of the smoke detector that “flipped a switch” in Moose. But Dr. Pachel noted that in Lowe’s account of the incident, there was a progressive escalation in Moose’s behavior. Lowe said when the smoke siren began blaring, he grabbed a dish towel and was waving it at a smoke detector in an attempt to clear the air when Moose grabbed at his hand, prompting Lowe to tell the dog, “No!” Then, he described, Moose started biting at Lowe’s feet—a behavior that he stated that Moose had done before, but not this intensely. This prompted Lowe to use a more stern “NO!”—and, Dr. Pachel observed, “That was when the conversation changed.” At that point, Moose aggressively grabbed Lowe’s arm, biting deeply, and causing Lowe to feel that he was fighting his dog for his life.

Lowe was eventually able to wrestle Moose into the back yard and close the door; he was then transported to a hospital for treatment. It’s not explicitly described, but it sounds like Moose was left outdoors overnight. The next morning, Lowe described that his parents came to take Lowe’s three children to their home while the next steps for Moose were being decided. In Lowe’s account, as the children were getting into the grandparents’ car, Moose somehow pushed open the back door to the house, and ran through the house and out the front door, making a beeline for Lowe and attacking him again. This time, Lowe and his parents were able to restrain the dog until police and animal control officers were able forcibly take the dog into custody. (Moose’s current status has not been disclosed.)

When a dog is involved in a violent interaction, his body is often flooded with cortisol, adrenaline, and norepinephrine. These “fight or flight” chemicals make the dog’s heart beat faster, increasing his blood pressure and blood sugar, and giving him more strength and energy. This physiological reaction occurs in response to a perceived threat to survival—and takes some time to dissipate. After a trauma, the dog’s cortisol and adrenaline levels may remain high for many hours, keeping the dog in an abnormally reactive state for some time. After a violent incident, it’s critical to truly secure the dog and seek help from professionals (see sidebar, “What to Do Immediately After a Dog Attack.”)

What a Veterinary Behaviorist Would Investigate

Though commenters on Lowe’s social media feed and news articles about the attack all seem to have strong opinions about what caused Moose to behave aggressively, a veterinary behaviorist will first collect a lot more information about the dog and his history before making any recommendations.

“If this family came to me with this incident, before I’d make any speculation about the cause of the event or recommendations for the dog, I’d want any pre-adoption records that may be available, any medical history, any training history,” Dr. Pachel says. Of course, in the case of a 7- or 8-year-old dog who was adopted from a shelter just three months prior, “We’ve got seven to eight years of learning history that are a black box; we have no way of knowing if the dog has history of any significantly traumatic events or forceful, scary, or painful training.” That said, in his experience, he has often observed that dogs who have had a learning history or experiential history that included painful or aversive outcomes from confrontational interactions from humans will frequently respond with defensive aggression to a stern verbal directive.

“I don’t know how much time elapsed between the smoke alarm starting and Moose’s aggressive response, but it doesn’t sound like it was ‘immediate,’” says Dr. Pachel. “I have a strong suspicion that there was actually more of a back-and-forth conversation. The noise of the smoke alarm may have been the source of arousal but I suspect that the reprimand-based interaction in the face of all of the arousal and chaos that I’m presuming was happening may have been at least a contributing factor.”

Even lacking any pre-adoption history, a veterinary behaviorist would collect information from the dog’s owner about the time that they have spent together—and this often includes information that the owners are unaware could be relevant to the dog’s abnormal or aggressive behavior.

“I’d want to know everything about the three months the family spent with the dog,” Dr. Pachel says. “The playful foot-biting thing that Lowe mentioned; what did that look like? Were there any family situations that the dog seemed uncomfortable with? All of that information has the potential to dramatically change the story from the armchair speculation that runs rampant in situations like this.”

Sometimes, there are clues in small things that the dog’s owner never realized were a sign of the dog’s stress or discomfort. For example, Dr. Pachel says, “Many dogs have a negatively conditioned association to smoke alarms or other alarm-type sounds; was this dog sensitive to the microwave, electronic beeps, cell phone sounds, or any other low battery alarms? Did he have a pre-existing history of arousal with food, visitors, doorbells, having mom and the kids away? Some dogs are sensitive to the presence of alcohol! I’ve had patients in my practice who are accepting of all sorts of human behavior unless alcohol is involved—and then everything is escalated in terms of the dog’s perception of threat. Just the presence of alcohol is significantly relevant from the dog’s learning history standpoint.” (Note: In Lowe’s account, he did not mention whether alcohol was present at the barbecue.)

Being veterinarians, veterinary behaviorists also collect as much information as possible about the dog’s physical history. “We know from recent research on the comorbidity between chronic pain—even at a low level—and older-onset noise-sensitivity or noise-aversion patterns that pain can induce an anxiety component. Did the dog have any medical conditions that could have been contributing to chronic pain or stress? Even perfectly healthy dogs can have behavior issues, but dogs who are not metabolically and neurologically healthy and normal are even more likely to exhibit abnormal or aggressive behavior,” Dr. Pachel says.

What a Veterinary Behaviorist Can Offer After an Attack

Moose’s owners have not yet disclosed what Moose’s outcome was or will be, though some reports have him currently staying at a secure boarding facility. There is a wealth of advice from commenters recommending either that Moose should be euthanized or given a chance to live out his days elsewhere. Once again, we’d recommend that owners of a dog who did something similarly violent consult only with a veterinary behaviorist, whether to help make a decision regarding the dog’s future—or to deal with a decision that’s already been made.

After a thorough history and examination of the dog has been completed, a veterinary behaviorist’s report will include the professional’s opinion about the dog’s behavior, and discuss risk factors that affect the likelihood of achieving a safe and successful outcome for the dog and his owners. If the owner decides to keep the dog, the clinician will develop a treatment plan, typically addressing the dog’s physical management, behavioral interventions, diet, exercise, and medication. Little is left to chance—but the owner will be primarily responsible for seeing such a plan through and keeping the veterinary behaviorist apprised of the dog’s progress or lack thereof. The clinician can also give the owner information about alternatives to treatment, such as rehoming or euthanasia.

“I got into veterinary medicine because of animals, but I got into behavior because of the people,” says Dr. Pachel. “After an incident like this, it can really help a family to help them understand what happened. This can both alleviate their anxiety about all the ‘What ifs?’—such as, what if the kids had been home and he attacked one of them?—and potentially inform their future interactions with dogs. Sometimes in the aftermath of a traumatic event it’s highly therapeutic to bring the entire family into the dialogue to help them understand what happened, allow them to express some of their concerns and anxieties, and bring some closure to the event.”

What to Do Immediately After a Dog Attack

If you’ve ever witnessed a bloody dog fight or dog attack, you probably remember the scene as chaotic and disordered. People often respond with screams or yelling and try to counter the dog’s violence with violence of their own—and in the immediate aftermath of such an event, the focus is often on any injured humans or victim animals.

We’d like to suggest that the very first priority is securely containing the dog who attacked. Putting the dog outside is woefully insufficient; putting the dog in a room or garage is a little better, but be advised that dogs who have been through a traumatic event and are physiologically aroused—full of adrenaline—are extraordinarily strong and may react quite abnormally for hours or days. Dogs in this state may jump or climb fences they were previously safely contained in, or chew and claw through hollow-core doors they never before challenged. Getting them into a strong crate, a room with a solid door (and inaccessible windows), or a car should be the first priority.

While the wounded are being transported for medical evaluation and help, summon professional help to deal with the dog. If the attack happened during regular business hours, contact your local animal control office; after hours, one generally has to call the local police or sheriff’s department, who will decide whether they will summon the animal control officers on call or try to deal with the dog themselves. If at all possible, insist on help from animal control officers, who will be equipped with the experience and special tools that they can use to capture and extract a dog who is still hyper-aroused and aggressive. (Law-enforcement officers who lack experience with dogs are all too likely to shoot dogs—sometimes even the wrong dog.)

If professional help is not immediately available, be extremely cautious about approaching the dog over the next hours or even the next day. After a traumatic event, the dog may suffer from sky-high cortisol levels for days. Do not permit children or elderly or infirm people near the dog, and maintain the dog’s secure containment until he is either taken into custody by an animal control officer for a quarantine or until it’s clear that the dog is entirely himself again and can be safely quarantined at home (if appropriate). Note: It is not safe nor appropriate to quarantine a dog in a home with small children in it.

Once the wounded have been treated and the dog is secure, the next step is to confirm the dog’s rabies vaccination history, because the dog’s vaccination status will effect the treatment of anyone who got bitten. If you don’t have the dog’s complete medical history, get as much of the history as you can as quickly as you can.

Best Dog Food Toppers

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Dog food toppers can entice a dog to eat food when they're not eating and can add needed fiber and
The best dog food topper makes your dog’s meal more appealing, so he’s motivated to eat. Credit: Eva Blanco | Getty Images

One of the most common reasons pet owners use dog food toppers is to make mealtimes more exciting. Some dogs are more selective, while others may experience appetite loss associated with stress, illness, or aging. Adding a tasty topper can encourage them to eat while also providing some additional nutrients.

 

 

Whole Dog Journal’s Favorite Commercial Dog Food Toppers

Some popular palatability-enhancing toppers include bone broth, freeze-dried raw, and wet food or gravies. Not all toppers are made the same, of course, and some companies have types of toppers that may be the best topper for your dog. For Whole Dog Journal, the best dog food toppers, by type, are:

Best Pour-On Dog Food Toppers:

Both Open Farm and Stella & Chewy’s make toppers easy to use by offering premade bone broths that can be poured over your dog’s meals. You can make bone broth at home by boiling beef marrow bones or chicken feet in water (see more below).

Best Powdered Dog Food Topper:

Native Pet offers a good bone broth powder that can be added and rehydrated.

Best Freeze-Dried Dog Food Toppers:

Vital Essentials, Instinct, and Stella & Chewy’s offer good freeze-dried meal toppers. These toppers can be rehydrated with water or bone broth for additional hydration. Freeze-dried meat and organ blends can be added to your dog’s diet to help enhance palatability. The benefits of freeze-dried toppers include their long shelf-life, easy storage, and minimal processing.

Best Wet Toppers for Dog Food:

Wellness Bowl Boosters and The Honest Kitchen Pour Overs are good options for pre-made wet toppers. Wet toppers are also a fantastic choice for picky eaters, as they typically contain aromatic gravy.

When to Use Dog Food Toppers

Dog food toppers are an excellent way to enhance your dog’s meals, whether to add variety to mealtimes, provide additional nutrition, or support specific health conditions. When it comes to toppers, you can choose from simple, homemade additions like lightly cooked meats and vegetables to commercially available wet and freeze-dried toppers designed to provide targeted nutritional support.

Toppers can:

  • Improve palatability to entice picky eaters
  • Add nutritional benefits to your dog’s current food
  • Help your dog gain weight
  • Add whole foods to your dog’s diet
  • Enhance digestion
  • Support joint health
  • Provide skin/coat nutrients
  • Offer immune support

Dog Food Toppers in Your Kitchen

You may be surprised to find simple ingredients right in your kitchen may provide the support your dog needs in a simple topper:

Digestive support: Pumpkin puree and psyllium husk powder provide natural sources of fiber to aid digestion, relieve constipation, and help with loose stools. These ingredients promote regular bowel movements and support gut health by feeding beneficial bacteria living in the intestines. We have recipes for easy pumpkin dog treats!

Probiotics: Plain kefir or Greek yogurt, preferably lactose-free, is a great source of live probiotics that can help maintain a balanced gut microbiome. Fermented vegetables, such as sauerkraut (in small, unseasoned amounts), can also introduce beneficial probiotics to your dog’s diet.

Joint support: For senior dogs or canine athletes, green-lipped mussels contain omega-3 fatty acids and glucosamine to help reduce inflammation and support joint health and mobility. Another excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids are sardines or anchovies packaged in water. These small fish not only aid in joint support but also contribute to cognitive health and skin and coat health as well.

For an extra joint-health boost while also adding some moisture, bone broth is an excellent addition. To make it at home, simply source some marrow bones or chicken feet from your local butcher, add some water, a splash of apple cider vinegar, and cook in a slow cooker or pressure cooker. Bone broth is rich in collagen, which helps support joint, skin, and coat health.

Skin and coat: Omega-3 fatty acids are crucial for maintaining a healthy coat and skin. In addition to sardines and green-lipped mussels, flaxseed and chia seeds can provide plant-based omega-3s. Adding a bit of flaxseed oil or a sprinkle of ground flaxseed or chia seeds to your dog’s meal can support skin health, reduce itchiness, and enhance coat shine. Eggs, particularly their yolks, are a fantastic addition. Egg yolks are rich in biotin, essential fatty acids, and amino acids, which help maintain healthy skin and coat as well as overall health. However, eggs should be lightly cooked to improve protein digestibility and neutralize avidin, a compound in raw egg whites that binds to biotin and interferes with its absorption.

Immune support: Blueberries, apples, and strawberries are packed with antioxidants that help combat oxidative stress and support the immune system. When feeding fruit, it is important to do so in moderation and avoid toxic options such as grapes and raisins. Vegetables, such as carrots, steamed broccoli, and steamed or canned green beans are an excellent source of vitamins, fiber, and can assist pets who are on a weight-loss journey feel satiated for longer.

Additional protein: Muscle and organ meats are fantastic, palatable additions to your dog’s meals. Chicken and turkey offer lean sources of protein, and liver is an exceptionally dense organ meat packed with iron and B vitamins. When sourcing meat for your dog, opt for lean options such as poultry, lean cuts of beef, rabbit, and venison to avoid excess fat intake that can lead to stomach upset and pancreatitis. Avoid giving your pet fat drippings from cooking things like bacon, chicken, pork, or beef, as they contain high levels of fats that can cause digestive upset.

Dog Food Topper Warnings

When feeding toppers to your pet, remember that all treats and toppers combined should not exceed 10% of their daily intake. Feeding toppers and treats in excess can lead to nutritional imbalances, toxicities, or deficiencies. Introduce new toppers slowly to prevent digestive upset and be sure to check the ingredients to ensure there is not excess sodium or sugar added.

Dog food toppers are a fantastic way to enhance meals by improving smell, taste, adding moisture, and supporting specific health needs. Whether using wet food toppers, freeze-dried toppers, or homemade additions, incorporating the right foods can boost your pet’s interest in mealtimes and their overall well-being. By choosing high-quality ingredients and using toppers appropriately and in moderation, you can provide your pet with a more enjoyable and nutritious dining experience!

How to Teach a Dog to Sit

Teaching a dog to sit is more than just a trick. It provides a way to calm and shelter dogs.
Among many other practical purposes, teaching your dog to sit is also helpful for taking cute photos! Credit: Jae Thomas

Sit is one of the first things many people teach their dogs, and it’s a helpful trick. It’s the foundational skill for a sit-stay and can be used for future impulse control work. You’ll also see sits utilized for exercise in canine conditioning, and a good sit is important for dog sports like rally and obedience, too.

Read on for three different methods you can use to teach your dog to sit.

Step One: Use a Marker and a Reward

Before you can start to teach your dog to sit (or teach her anything for that matter), you need to know how to use a marker system and how to reward. Marking a behavior and rewarding your dog lets your dog know she’s doing the right thing and positively reinforces the behavior you’re looking for.

A marker is a verbal or audible cue that tells your dog the moment they did the correct behavior. It also tells them that a reward is coming their way. Many people use clickers as their marker, but you can also use a word, like “yes,” or make a clicking sound with your mouth. Whatever you decide to use as a marker, make sure you show your dog what it means, and use it often. Remember, if you mark, you have to reward!

To teach your dog what your marker means, you have to “load” your marker. Loading the marker is simple: just click your clicker, say yes, or make a clicking sound with your mouth, and immediately follow up the noise or word by giving your dog a tasty treat. They’ll soon learn that the marker means food is coming.

Now that you understand markers and rewards, here are three ways to get your dog to sit. Play around with each method to find which one works best for your dog.

Method One: Capture a Sit

Capturing is a method of training in which you reward your dog for things they do on their own. We don’t prompt, lure, or ask for anything, we simply mark and reward when it happens organically.

To teach a sit through capturing, you’ll mark and reward every time your dog sits of their own accord. Once you’ve rewarded a behavior multiple times, you can start to add the verbal “sit” cue to it. Say “sit” as your dog starts to sit, then click and reward. Eventually, she will pair the verbal cue with the action of sitting and will do it on cue.

Method Two: Lure a Sit

Luring is a helpful training method because it allows you to manipulate your dog’s position using a treat or a toy. To lure a sit, hold a treat in your hand and put your hand on your dog’s nose. Slowly move the treat up above her head, but don’t move it too high, as she might become disinterested in it. As your dog’s head moves up, her rear will go down. Once her rear hits the floor, you can mark and reward.

When the dog is consistently sitting with the lure, you can add a verbal cue. Say “sit” as you’re moving the lure above your dog’s head. If your dog turns around while you’re luring her, you can also try to lure her into a sit with their back to a wall, so she can’t spin as much.

It will take lots of repetitions for your dog to pair the verbal cue with the action, so stay patient and put in a lot of reps! Don’t forget to fade the lure once your dog understands the verbal cue.

Method Three: Shape a Sit

If your dog doesn’t like to sit or is becoming confused by luring, you can break up the behavior into small steps and reward for incremental steps toward your end goal. This type of training is called shaping.

To shape a sit, follow the same steps you would to lure a sit, but instead of waiting until the dog is sitting to reward her, reward when your dog tilts her head up to look at the treat. Slowly make your criteria harder when the dog is consistently titling her head up. For example, you might next reward her for looking up even further, or for bending her rear legs. Eventually, you raise the criteria so that your dog is sitting with each rep. If your dog fails, go back to the previous step and make your criteria easier.

More Tips for Getting Your Dog to Sit

Never push your dog’s bottom down or pull on her leash or collar to get her to sit. Keep training fun and upbeat, and if your dog is confused, make it easier for them by shaping and rewarding for small steps toward the desired behavior. This makes your dog successful more often, and the more successful they are, the more they’ll want to keep training with you!

Questions to Ask When Adopting a Rescue Dog

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A meet and greet is an important part of meeting a rescue dog.
It’s important to spend time with your potential rescue dog so you can determine he or she is a good fit for your family. Credit: Kail9 | Getty Images

Adopting a rescue dog is a great way to help a dog in need, but it is critical to make sure that you know what you are committing to and that the dog will be a good fit for your family.

The term “rescue” can cover a wide range of situations, from a well-organized operation that has protocols for providing care and an established network of fosters to one person with a bunch of dirty crates in a back room. Rescues may be 501c3 non-profits, although this does not necessarily indicate quality or lack thereof. Some specialize in particular breeds or mixes, others focus on special-needs dogs who require extra care, and others take all comers.

Green flags for a good rescue are when the volunteers can answer your questions about the dogs, provide veterinary records, and the dogs are clean, relaxed, and healthy.

The fun part is figuring out which dog speaks to you and will be your perfect companion. Here are some questions to ask when considering adopting a dog from a rescue.

Where Is the Rescue Dog From?

Some rescue groups only take in local dogs, but others may have networks across several states. This is particularly common with breed-specific rescues. Many breed clubs for show dogs have an affiliated rescue group that focuses on helping dogs of their breed, picking them up from shelters and placing them in foster homes that are familiar with their behavior traits and needs.

Why is it good to know the dog’s original location? Some regions have increased health risks. For example, dogs from the southern United States are more likely to have heartworms, and dogs from the Midwest are at higher risk of having the fungal infection blastomycosis. Knowing where the dog came from allows you to assess possible risks and plan appropriate veterinary care and testing that might be necessary.

Is the Rescue Dog Vaccinated?

Rescues should provide a vaccination history. Best-case scenario, the rescue will have vaccination records from the previous owner. Worst-case scenario, the rescue should start the dog on core vaccines such as rabies, distemper virus, parvovirus, and leptospirosis. Bordetella (kennel cough) is another common vaccine, especially if the rescue houses many dogs in the same facility.

Depending on how long the dog was with the rescue before being adopted, they may need boosters of one or more vaccines. The rescue should provide clear dates on when vaccines are next due.

Has the Dog Been Tested for Heartworm?

Heartworm is most common in warm, moist environments, but dogs have tested positive all over the United States and beyond. Heartworm is a critical issue for rescue dogs because treating a heartworm infection is expensive and dangerous. Not treating it at all will ultimately be fatal.

Ideally, dogs should be tested for heartworms once they reach 6 to 8 months of age. If the dog tests negative, she should be put on a monthly preventive medication and then tested again six months later. Why the second test? It can take six months for an active infection to show up on the routine tests, so that second test is verifying that your dog truly is negative for heartworm. Only testing once in a dog with unknown health care history could give a false sense of security.

It is up to you if you wish to adopt a dog who is heartworm positive. The rescue may be able to help cover costs of treatment, and many of these dogs go on to live normal lives. But you want to know the dog’s heartworm status before adoption so that you can make an informed decision.

What Breed or Mix Is the Rescue Dog?

Breed or mix gives you a rough idea of what the dog’s training and grooming needs will be. This is especially helpful for puppies, as it gives you an idea how big the puppy will be as an adult. Depending on how the dog came to be in the rescue, the rescue may not know the dog’s exact breed/mix, but they will give their best guess.

How Many Homes Has the Rescue Dog Had?

There is no hard-and-fast rule on this one. Some dogs get passed through multiple homes through no fault of their own, while others are serially rehomed because they have severe behavioral problems. Knowing how many previous homes the dog has been through just gives you an idea of what her life has looked like up to this point.

What Is the Rescue Dog’s Personality?

Ask what the dog is like in a familiar environment, what her play style is, and how she responds to loud noises or new people. Find out how the dog handles restraint for basic grooming and veterinary care. If you have children or other pets, ask if she has been around them and how it went. Try to talk to the person or people who have spent the most time with the dog, such as her foster.

Keep in mind that personality can change as puppies mature and as the dog settles into a new home. The information that you get from the rescue and foster homes is a baseline.

Does the Rescue Dog Have a Bite History?

Adopting a dog with a bite history could be problematic for your renter’s or home insurance. If the dog has bitten someone before, ask about the circumstances around the incident. It may be helpful to consult with a veterinary behaviorist to determine if you have the skills to train and manage this dog.

What Is the Rescue Dog’s Health Status?

All dogs taken in by a rescue should receive a veterinary exam and have urgent health needs addressed. The dog should be healthy before being adopted out, or you should be provided with detailed information on what health concerns the dog has and what care is needed now or may be needed in the future.

Keep in mind that for many rescue dogs, we do not have any information on their parents’ health or their past health history. Happy bouncy puppies may develop symptoms of hip dysplasia as they mature, or the dog may develop kidney failure because of untreated Lyme disease before they came into the rescue’s care. A clean bill of health today is not a guarantee that the dog will always be healthy as neither the rescue nor the veterinarian has a crystal ball.

Has the Rescue Dog Had Any Training?

Rescue dogs can run the gamut from completely untrained hooligans to perfect well-mannered canine citizens. This boils down to the training and socialization that they received in their “first lives,” how long they were with the rescue, and what training resources and abilities the rescue and/or foster may have had.

Consider if you are comfortable taking on a dog who is a clean slate, or if you need a dog with some features already installed. Things to consider are house training, crate training, walking on a loose lead, and basic commands such as sit, down, wait, and come. Adult dogs who have developed bad habits can be difficult to house train and require patience and persistence. If you do not have a fenced yard and will have to walk your new dog on a leash, adopting a dog who already has some basic leash skills may be a must.

What Is the Rescue’s Application Process?

The adoption process will vary widely among rescues. Most will have some sort of adoption application form and ask about your current and previous pets, who your vet is, and if you have a fenced yard. These questions help gauge if you have thought through what it takes to care for a dog and if the dog you are interested in is a good fit.

Some rescues may ask for references or to do a home visit. You also may be able to do one or more meet-and-greets to get to know the dog before adoption.

What If It Doesn’t Work Out?

Even with the best intentions and planning from both you and the rescue volunteers, sometimes a dog who looks like a perfect fit on paper just isn’t. Ask what the rescue’s policy is on returning a dog, and if there is a specific timeframe for you to do a trial run to see if the dog fits with your family and lifestyle.

How to Get Rid of Nasal Mites in Dogs

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Nasal mites in dogs can be the cause of mysterious respiratory problems like sneezing, nose bleeds, and breathing trouble.
Nasal mites are invisible to the naked eye but can cause symptoms including sneezing, nose bleeds, and difficulty breathing. Credit: Justin Paget | Getty Images

Nasal mites in dogs are tiny mites that like to make their home inside canine nasal passages. These mites are highly contagious and difficult to identify but can be treated with a variety of standard antiparasitic medications.

What Are Nasal Mites in Dogs?

As far as dog mites go, nasal mites are one of the stranger characters. Formally known as Pneumonyssoides caninum or Pneumonyssus caninum, these mites spend their entire lives in the nasal passages and paranasal sinuses of dogs. They feed on keratin from the epidermis and live for about three weeks.

The mites are extremely small—only about a millimeter long—and can’t be seen with the naked eye.

Canine nasal mite infections have been found in dogs worldwide. They are usually transmitted by direct contact between dogs when an infected dog and an uninfected dog sniff each other. Indirect transmission may also be possible, as the mites have been found on other parasites such as fleas, lice, and flies which could potentially transport them from one host to another. They can survive in the environment for a couple of weeks.

Any dog can get nasal mites. Some studies have suggested that adult dogs over three years of age and large-breed dogs (with their larger noses!) may be at higher risk. The primary risk factor for contracting nasal mites is being around a lot of other dogs, as this increases the chances of coming across an infected dog.

The good news is that nasal mites in dogs will not spread to humans.

Does My Dog Have Nasal Mites?

Symptoms of a dog nasal mite infection include:

  • Sneezing
  • Runny nose
  • Nosebleeds
  • Head shaking
  • Rubbing the face
  • Reverse sneezing
  • Noisy breathing
  • Difficulty breathing
  • Trouble smelling

The symptoms of a nasal mite infection are not specific. This means that they can be caused by a variety of health problems. If your dog is showing any of these symptoms, he might truly have nasal mites, but he could also have something stuck in his nose, an upper respiratory infection, dental disease, an oronasal fistula (draining tract between the nasal passages and the mouth or throat), or even nasal cancer. Because of these wildly different possible causes, it is important to schedule a veterinary appointment to figure out the root of your dog’s symptoms.

Finding Nasal Mites in Dogs

Your veterinarian will start with basic bloodwork to check for signs of inflammation, infection, and a variety of common diseases. If your dog is experiencing nosebleeds, she may also run tests to check for bleeding and clotting disorders.

A nasal swab might show mites when your vet looks at it under a microscope, but it is often difficult to capture them. Using an external heat source may draw the mites out enough to be caught on a swab or seen with a magnifying glass. Swabs are usually more useful to send out a culture to check for common respiratory viruses and bacterial infections.

A CT scan is the best way to view the structure of the nasal passages and sinuses, checking for damage, foreign objects that were inhaled, and tumors. Regular x-rays may be helpful in some cases but often don’t give adequate detail to determine the cause of your dog’s symptoms.

If your veterinarian suspects that your dog truly does have nasal mites, she will probably recommend either rhinoscopy or a nasal lavage. Both of these procedures are performed under anesthesia because they can be disconcerting and stressful for the dog.

A rhinoscopy is when a tiny, flexible camera is inserted into the nasal passages to have a look around. The rhinoscope will allow your vet to look at the condition of the nasal passages and to see actual mites living deep in the nasal cavity.

For a nasal lavage, your vet will flush the nasal passages with saline and then suck it out several times. This fluid is then checked for nasal mites or any other debris that may have been dislodged. It can also be sent out for culture to check for viral and bacterial causes.

How to Get Rid of Nasal Mites in Dogs

Thankfully, the prognosis for nasal mite infections is excellent, and many dogs make a full recovery.

Even if your vet is not able to find nasal mites, she will still start treatment if she suspects mites are the cause of your dog’s woes. Treatment has two prongs: killing the mites and relieving your dog’s symptoms.

There hasn’t been much research done on nasal mites in dogs at this point, so we don’t know the ideal treatment. Ivermectin and milbemycin oxime, both common anti-parasitic drugs used in dogs, are the most commonly used. Topical selamectin may work as well.

To relieve your dog’s symptoms, your vet may prescribe steroids to reduce inflammation and/or antihistamines to reduce itchiness. If your dog also has a bacterial infection in his nose, he will receive antibiotics too. Sedatives may be necessary if your dog is highly excitable and is having difficulty breathing when he gets worked up.

If your dog is not responding to treatment and his symptoms stay the same or get worse, he probably has an additional health problem as well as the nasal mites. This is common. Now is the time to go back and do diagnostic testing that you might have bypassed initially, or to repeat cultures for viral and bacterial infections.

Home Treatment for Nasal Mites

Do not try to treat nasal mites at home without getting a diagnosis. Many different infections and illnesses can cause the same symptoms as nasal mites, and giving the wrong medication can have dire consequences.

Preventing Nasal Mites in Dogs

Regular preventive medications used to keep your dog free of fleas, ticks, and mange mites may also prevent nasal mite infections. Giving your dog these products year-round and keeping your dog away from dogs with a known nasal mite infection are the best ways to protect your dog from this parasite.

What If You Get the Wrong Dog?

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Sometimes the right dog ends up with the wrong person, and the best option is rehoming.
Remember, the traits that drive you crazy in a dog may be the key to winning some other person’s heart! Credit: Capuski, Getty Images

It’s a sad fact (but a fact nevertheless) that sometimes people adopt a dog or buy a puppy that turns out to quite unsuited for life with those people. Sometimes, it’s predictable—and could have been prevented, if only someone who knew better had been able to intervene in time—like the couple in their 80s who bought a high-octane small breed or a strong large-breed puppy because they had always had that type of dog before, or the super-busy family who buy a dog who needs a ton of exercise and grooming. In other cases, maybe they selected a dog of a breed and size that should have been appropriate for their family, but ended up with an individual with a personality and interests that are simply not well-suited for a peaceful, fun life with that family.

Note that I’m not talking about a dog with a dangerous propensity for serious resource guarding or unprovoked aggression—that’s a problem for another day. I’m just talking about dogs who are just a bad fit for their family, such as a dog with more energy than the family can possibly channel through enrichment or exercise, or a dog who turns out to be deeply uncomfortable with children in a family overrun with kids, or a dog who is committed to a couch-potato life (doesn’t like hiking, is scared of the outdoors, or just wants to snuggle on the sofa) in a family who enjoys outdoor activities daily. If no one is enjoying the dog in the first few weeks or months—and the dog doesn’t seem to be thriving in their home, either—what then?

I strongly believe that rehoming the dog quickly is the best course of action for all concerned, even though it can be difficult to cut both your financial losses (price of a pup, plus spay/neuter surgery, vaccinations, microchipping, etc. plus investment in training, crates, beds, gates, etc. etc.) and emotional ties. But when you compare the cost of all of the things you invested in during the first few months against the investment you will make over at least 10 to 15 or more years with a dog you just don’t enjoy—and who doesn’t enjoy you so much, either!—it should be apparent that it’s the right thing to do.

Finding an appropriate home in which to place your dog is not easy, however, even if the dog is an attractive or trendy breed. People often have an attachment to the concept of being a dog’s first owner—they want that personal history of the dog’s babyhood with them! If you have been experiencing a rough puppyhood with the dog, this might not make sense to you, but try to remember back a few months earlier, when YOU were the one who wanted a clean-slate puppy.

Be aware that it can be difficult to tap into a population of people who are shopping for their next dog. When most people make the decision to adopt, they tend to look for breeders or shelters; not nearly as many look on Craigslist.

Tips on Rehoming a Dog

If you’ve made the decision to rehome your dog, consider these tips:

  • Discuss returning the dog with the shelter, rescue, or breeder you got him from. Most rescues and shelters use a contract that requires you to return the dog to them if you choose not to keep him. So do good breeders!

Note that I am talking about returning a dog to the shelter only if you got him from the shelter. I don’t support the decision to bring a dog to a shelter simply because you have decided he’s not the dog for you—largely because the shelters are already full of dogs who are there because people couldn’t afford them or lost their housing, or their owners died. There are far more tragic stories than yours; personally, I don’t think “a poor fit” is enough justification to warrant surrendering to a shelter. I think those kennels should be reserved for true hard-luck cases where no other safety-net option exists to help.

  • Ask your friends and family members if they are interested in adopting your dog.
  • Make a post asking for help in rehoming the dog on your social media pages. Be honest; don’t misrepresent the dog, but be prepared to disclose the reasons why you need to rehome the dog to people who contact you. Be honest! If the dog has a problematic behavior—such as nuisance barking or housetraining failures—tell the person who is interested in him, and also tell them why you think you’ve been unable to deal with that behavior. Hiding the true reasons that have motivated you to rehome the dog is not only unethical, but it can set up the dog for abuse in his new home. (Also, what is a problem for you may not be a problem for someone else; for example, barking may not be as problematic for someone who lives in the country instead of an apartment; housetraining issues may resolve with a move into a home with a yard and dog door.) Finally, ask your friends to share the post.
  • If you’ve taken classes with a trainer, enlist the trainer for help with finding a new home. Ask if she can post a courtesy listing for your dog on the training business’s social media pages.
  • Ask your veterinarian’s staff if they have suggestions; they may know someone who recently lost a dog and might be looking for another one soon. Also, they, too, may have a social media presence where they could provide a courtesy listing for your dog, or even a bulletin board in their waiting room.

Remember, the traits that drive you crazy in a dog may be the key to winning some other person’s heart! “Too much energy” for your family may develop into someone else’s champion flyball or agility dog; a dog who is inactive and not very interactive might make an ideal companion to an older person who sit on a couch a lot! Do your best to find a family who is better suited for those dogs, so they can thrive!

Why Alpha Dog Training is Outdated

Alpha dog training stems from a misunderstanding about dog social groups, and has done immense damage.
Fear-free, positive reinforcement dog training techniques focus on building trust and respect between dog and handler. Credit: Mr Vito | Getty Images

The world of dog training can be a very confusing place for dog guardians, especially first-time owners looking for information about how to train their new puppy or adult dog. The internet only adds to this confusion with so much conflicting advice and opposing views. Outdated practices and philosophies of dog training, such as dominance training or the need to be the “alpha” pack leader persist, despite being debunked by modern science. Let’s take a brief look into the history of dog training to understand where practices like alpha dog training originated.

A Brief History of Dog Training

The rise of contemporary dog training began in the early 1900s with the publication of a German book called Training Dogs. This “how-to” manual was written by a police colonel called Konrad Most and the techniques within it resembled army drills designed to force obedience in recruits using corrections and punishment. Although his book was not translated into English until the 1950s, his methods reached Western society via his students, one of whom founded the Hollywood Dog Training School and became famous for training dogs that appeared in films such as The Wizard of Oz.

Later, the monks of New Skete published their bestselling book: How to Be Your Dog’s Best Friend with a similar emphasis on discipline and dominance. Indeed, they introduced the “alpha-roll”—a technique to force submission—and solidified the master-servant relationship between owner and dog. Simultaneously, the book cemented confrontational and punishment-based methods of training while amplifying the perception of dogs as wolves in human homes who must submit to their masters (Greenebaum, 2010).

By the early 1980s, dog training was becoming much less the domain of men with military pasts. The field began attracting scientists and university students studying biology, ethology, and psychology who were interested in dog behavior and how to train dogs more effectively. These people led the change that saw scientifically proven methods introduced to the wider dog training community (Pręgowski, 2015).

The last two decades have seen an explosion in a branch of science called canine science—the study of dog behavior, learning, cognition, emotion, and welfare. We have also witnessed the human-dog relationship shift from being human-centered and one-sided to a two-way bond of mutual benefit. These new discoveries overwhelmingly support the efficacy and benefits of reward-based positive reinforcement training over the punitive alpha/dominance/pack leader philosophy.

Despite these discoveries, current methods used to train dogs range broadly with some using rewards and other non-invasive techniques (reward methods), others using mainly aversive stimuli (aversive methods), and still others using a combination of both (mixed/balanced methods) (Vieira de Castro et al., 2021).

What is Alpha Dog Training?

Alpha dog training stems from “traditional” dominance-based method of training endorsing obedience by using a human-centric approach that places dogs in a subordinate position in order to maintain their place in the family. Whereas the “reward-based” behavior modification method promotes a dog-centric approach that highlights companionship over dominance and promotes harmony between human and dog desires and needs (Pręgowski, 2015).

Alpha dog training relies on dominating and punishing a dog whenever she exhibits unwanted behavior. Common tactics include the “alpha roll” (physically forcing your dog to roll over on their back to make them submit to you), eating before your dog, not allowing the dog on the bed or furniture, ensuring you walk through doors before your dog, and always having your dog walk at heel when on lead. These tactics are meant to show your dog that you are the boss or the leader of the pack.

Issues Caused by Alpha Dog Training

Alpha dog training can cause a range of behavioral and emotional issues in dogs and even exacerbate the problems proponents claim the method solves. This is because these techniques rely on dominance and punishment and often cause fear, stress, and anxiety resulting in a loss of trust in the caregiver. Aversive training techniques like alpha rolls and physical corrections may suppress behavior temporarily, and appear to be effective, but they do not address the underlying cause(s). This can lead to increased aggression, more generalized fear, or even learned helplessness. Dogs trained using intimidation may comply in the moment due to fear rather than a true understanding of what is being asked of them.

Why Alpha Dog Training is Not Recommended

Alpha dog training is not recommended for several reasons. First, this method of training is based on an outdated and debunked perception of dogs and how we relate to them. Our understanding of dogs—particularly their emotional lives and behavior—has advanced significantly in recent years, thanks to an explosion of research in the area of canine science. This body of research, collected over the past 20 years or so, clearly demonstrates that showing dominance over your dog negatively impacts welfare and the human-animal bond.

Second, a body of research now demonstrates that common strategies utilized under the alpha dog method, such as physical punishment (yanking on a choke chain, hitting or kneeing a dog, or yelling at them) cause pain and fear and can harm the relationship between owner and dog. Rather, this research shows that using positive reinforcement training is not only more humane, but results in improved training outcomes and a better bond between owner and dog.

For these reasons, prominent veterinary, animal behavior, and animal welfare organizations, as well as fear-free trainers, do not recommend training your dog using “alpha” or “dominance” training techniques.

How to Train Your Dog Without Using Dominance

As stated above, our understanding of dog behavior has evolved significantly in recent years and it’s clear that force and intimidation are not only unnecessary but also counterproductive in training. Modern, science-backed dog training methods prioritize humane, positive reinforcement techniques that strengthen the bond between dogs and their guardians while improving learning outcomes.

Positive reinforcement training focusses on rewarding desired behaviors rather than punishing unwanted behavior. This approach helps motivate dogs while also ensuring they feel safe, understood, and eager to learn. By reading and responding to a dog’s body language and emotional state, trainers and guardians can communicate more effectively, reducing stress and frustration for both themselves and their dogs.

Fear-free and positive reinforcement trainers embrace these principles, using techniques including treats, praise, play, and life rewards to encourage desired behavior. They also understand the importance of setting dogs up for success by managing the environment and reinforcing desired behaviors.

By adopting reward-based training methods, dog guardians can build a trusting and cooperative relationship with their pets—one based on mutual respect and understanding rather than outdated notions of dominance.

Train a Dog to Ring a Bell

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Bell training a dog means creating an association between the ringing out the bell and going outside for potty.
The most important part of training your dog to ring a bell to go out is creating the association that ringing that bell means potty. Credit: Petra Richli | Getty Images

My dog Siri trained herself to ring a bell that I had on the doorknob of the door leading into the yard. She used to just go and stand next to the door and stare at me if I was in the room. One day, I heard the bell ring and went into that room to see why. She was waiting patiently by the door, so I let her out (after telling her what a splendidly smart girl she was, of course). She took that to heart and from that moment on, she rang the bell anytime she wanted to go out into the yard. Sometimes right after she had just come in. It was sure cute, though!

So, the first thing I want to mention is that, although many dog parents want to train their dog to ring a bell to go outside (usually for pottying purposes), this is the option that dogs most frequently learn to use for alternate purposes, especially if you combine pottying with walks or if you have a fenced yard. I am careful to use alternate terms for simply going out to enjoy the yard as well as for walks.

What Kind of Bell Will a Dog Ring?

The type of bell you choose depends on the door location and the height of your dog. Some dog parents choose the type that hangs from a door handle. Others prefer a button-style that sticks on a wall. I start by making sure that the dog sees the bell and hears its sound before initiating the training. Please determine that it doesn’t frighten your dog beforehand.

Steps to Train Your Dog to Ring a Bell

  1. If your dog knows how to hand target train (and they should!), that is your starting point. I often use a sticky note, like a Post-it, added to my hand when asking for the “touch” or whatever word cue you use for that behavior. I personally use a marker word (yes!) versus a clicker, but you can use either. Obviously, I immediately follow the marked behavior with a high value food reward.
  2. Once the dog is reliably targeting the hand with the sticky note, I will transfer the paper to the bell/button. I still use my hand-targeting word cue at this point.
  3. Once the dog is reliability responding to the request to target the note on the bell/button, I create a new cue word for such. I say the original targeting cue and add the new cue immediately afterwards. Eventually, I will just use the new cue.
  4. Now, the most important part is creating the association that ringing that bell can result in you taking them out to potty. My go-to at this point is asking them if they need to go potty when they most likely do. Use your own term, obviously. They will usually visibly show you the answer is yes. Then you can request the bell-targeting behavior. If they don’t respond to that cue then, you can ring it yourself while repeating the “do you have to go potty?” request and then immediately take them outside to take care of business.

Repetition with this process is your friend. However, be sure that you will be able to hear this bell anywhere in your home so choose your bell wisely. And remember to differentiate. Trips outdoors through the same door whether for enjoying the yard or going for a walk versus potty should get different word cues to prevent confusion.  Happy bell ringing!

Livestock Guardian Dogs: Characteristics, Breeds, and Roles

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Great Pyrenees are a breed of livestock guardian dogs that also make good family dogs.
Great Pyrenees, like the dog shown above, are one of the breeds commonly used to guard livestock in the U.S. Credit: DMU | Getty Images

Archeologists have found skeletons of livestock guardian dogs lying side-by-side with sheep and goats in sites dating back 6000 years. Their images appear in pictographs found in the ruins of Babylon and Nineveh in ancient Mesopotamia, and in third to second millennium B.C.E. petroglyphs in central Kazakhstan. They likely arrived in Europe with nomadic shepherds from the Caucasus in the 6th century B.C.E.

Livestock guardian dogs (LGDs) are an ancient class of dogs whose sole purpose is to guard livestock such as sheep and goats. (Livestock guardians are very different from herding dogs such as Border Collies and Australian Shepherds, which help herdsmen move their stock from place to place.) First brought to the U.S. by Spanish settlers in the 1500s, livestock guardian dogs were nevertheless virtually unknown by most American ranchers  until the late 1970s. Since then, these dogs have become a staple for hundreds of ranchers throughout the country.

Characteristics of Livestock Guardian Dogs

Three crucial traits for any livestock guardian dog are:

  • Trustworthiness (not likely to roam, and not aggressive with livestock),
  • Attentiveness (situationally aware of threats)
  • Protectiveness (able to drive off predators)

Physically, LGDs are often in excess of two feet tall and upwards of 100 pounds with large, blocky heads, floppy ears, and water-resistant coats. Their coat color typically reflects not just their breed, but also the appearance of the animals that they guard: white dogs with white sheep, brown or grey dogs with dark-colored sheep or goats.

LGDs are usually introduced to their livestock as puppies—as young as 4 to 8 weeks of age. Because of this early bonding, the dogs are more likely to follow and protect the flock as if they were part of it. At one time, it was a widely-held belief that an LGD needed to be raised without human contact in order for them to form this bond. Yet historically, these dogs have always been part of traditional pastoralist families, and today’s ranchers have come to understand that human socialization is vital during the bonding process, and an important part of a LGD’s care and training.

Common Breeds Used as Livestock Guardian Dogs

Even though many people think of livestock guardian dogs as a “breed,” there is no single breed that exemplifies these dogs. Rather, there are many breeds which have been used over the millennia as livestock guardian dogs. Today, more than 30 distinct LGD breeds are found throughout the world, most of them associated with just one country or region. Here in the U.S., five breeds dominate: the Great Pyrenees is the most popular, along with the Akbash, Maremma, Anatolian Shepherd, and Komondor.

Great Pyrenees

The Pyrenean Mountain Dog (known in the U.S. as the Great Pyrenees, commonly called a “Pyr”) is a French breed that originated in the Pyrenees Mountains. Large and heavily built, the Pyr has a short, full neck, with a deep chest and long tail that hangs low much of the time, but curls over its back when the dog is aroused. This is one of just a few breeds with double dewclaws on its hind legs. Most commonly, the Pyr’s coat is white and extremely thick. When well socialized and trained, Pyrs can be gentle, affectionate, and devoted to members of their families.

Akbash

The Akbash is an ancient breed, native to western Turkey. After being brought to the U.S. in the 1980s, the Department of Agriculture began using these dogs as livestock guardians. Like the Great Pyrenees, Akbash are typically gentle dogs who can make affectionate, calm family pets; but also like the Pyr, they tend to be suspicious of strangers and can be aggressive if an unknown dog approaches their territory. They are large, lean, and muscular, and can weigh as much as 140 pounds. With a white coat, wedge-shaped head, and floppy ears, they have a long tail that curls over their back when excited.

Maremma

The Maremmano-Abruzzese Sheepdog, also known as the Maremma or Abruzzerse Sheepdog, is another ancient breed with its roots in central Italy. Today the breed is widely employed to protect livestock (particularly sheep) in Italy, the United States, and Canada. Because they share so many physical and temperamental traits—thick white coat, large head, floppy ears, devotion to their owners, and wariness of strangers—it’s long been suggested that the Maremma, Great Pyrenees, and Kuvasz from Hungary may share the same ancestor. The first Maremma Sheepdogs were brought to the U.S. in the 1970s for a research project exploring the effectiveness of livestock guardian dogs.

Anatolian Shepherd

The Anatolian Shepherd is a very large LGD that, like the Akbash, traces its lineage to ancient Turkey. With males weighing up to 150 pounds, this dog’s size alone could easily intimidate any predator threatening its flock. These dogs made their way to the U.S. in the 1950s; since then, their fierce ability to protect livestock has made them a highly coveted LGD. Unlike the Pyr, Akbash, and Mareema, the Anatolian Shepherd’s coat is mostly light brown, with a black face-mask.

Komondor

The Komondor’s appearance alone makes this breed stand out: its white coat is made up of long, white, felt-like cords, which grow longer with age and help the dog blend in with the sheep it guards. This LGD is the largest of all Hungarian breeds, thought to be descended from Asian shepherd dogs brought to Hungary around the tenth century. Although bred to guard flocks of sheep from predators, they are typically loving lapdogs with their families; however, like most LGDs, they are often suspicious of strangers and other dogs.

The Role of Livestock Guardian Dogs in the U.S.

Although a fairly recent addition to American ranches, LGDs have proven to be extremely effective deterrents to hunters like coyotes—which hold the distinction as being our most common sheep-killing predator—domestic dogs, mountain lions, bears, foxes, and bobcats. They’ve also shown themselves to an important part of alleviating  conflict between livestock, which ranchers necessarily need to protect, and predators, many of which are themselves endangered or threatened species. LGDs also offer a way for ranchers and ecologists to coexist, providing humane alternatives to lethal control methods such as poisoning and shooting, while supporting biodiversity and  conservation.

Do Dogs Have a Sense of Time?

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Dogs do have a sense of time, and can tell when you are behind schedule.
Your dog may not be able to tell you that it’s 7 a.m. and time to get up, but he knows you’re supposed to be awake now and downstairs with him. Credit: jules Clark | Getty Images

Dogs use natural circadian rhythms based on light cycles for much of their version of telling time. Dogs also tell time by the routines of humans in their lives. Waking, working, school, recreational activities, etc. all have telltale actions and accessories that help the dogs that we live with know what might happen next. They know that potty usually comes first when awakening, then perhaps breakfast and maybe followed by a walk. Or if you are part of the 9-to-5 workday crew, maybe walks take place after coming home from work and your dog spends the day sleeping.

And dogs love routine, which helps them develop a sense of time, even when home alone. The sounds of your neighborhood change with the time of day. Dogs can sense when you are due home by the sounds and even the smells of what is happening outside. Dogs can even tell whether your exit will be a typical routine exit or something altogether different based on your actions preceding such, the clothing that you choose to wear and even the smell of your body.  Different emotions create different smells in our bodies. They may act differently if your exit routine is different than usual as that may create more of an uncertainty about your return time frame.

And, yes, dogs are bothered by Daylight Savings Time changes.

Dogs and the Passage of Time

Dogs don’t tell time by a clock, but they can tell time “passage.” So, what happens when you go on vacation and are gone for longer than a workday or a dinner out? Well, ideally, you get your dog acclimated to something like that when they are young so that it’s not such a shock when they are say, 5 years old and you suddenly get a yearning to vacation overseas.

Will they notice how long you are gone? The short answer is yes, they notice by waking and sleeping cycles and meal cycles and how they typically pass the time. I think it’s likely more traumatic for them when they are boarded if this is not something that they have previously experienced versus staying in their own home with a known person. But every dog is different.

They cannot count hours or days like humans can. But they can tell that the time passed is different. Their greeting when you return will be far more exuberant than when you come home from work or dinner out. But again, if this is just another routine part of their lives that started as a puppy or an adolescent, then the extra time passage is less traumatic than it would be coming suddenly as an adult dog.

That said, routines are the bottom line here for helping your dog to better understand the passage of time, no matter what that routine consists of.

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