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Talking Buttons for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Dog talking buttons can enable dogs to communicate simple needs to their owners.
Can dogs really be taught to communicate their wants and needs using dog talking buttons? Credit: Bogdana Pashkevich | Getty Images

The talking button craze began when speech language pathologist Christina Hunger applied the same technology she used with children to her puppy, Stella. Hunger taught nonverbal children how to use talking buttons to express and explain themselves in a Language Acquisition through Motor Planning program called Augmentative and Alternative Communication, or AAC. With practice, Stella caught on and could soon tell Hunger what she wanted or how she felt. Today, Stella knows more than 50 words and arranges them in endless combinations.

By the time her book How Stella Learned to Talk was published in 2021, Hunger and Stella had appeared in People magazine and had thousands of internet fans. Today,  Hunger’s website offers information, talking buttons, accessories, online training, and instructions for dog lovers.

Followers of Hunger’s methods have produced their own books, videos, blogs, demonstrations, and appearances on social media. But are their dogs really using human language?

To examine talking buttons scientifically, Federico Rossan, director of the Comparative Cognition Lab at the University of California, San Diego, has spent four years collecting data for an independent study of dogs and talking buttons. When published, its results may settle the debate about whether dogs are truly using human speech. In the meantime, fans of talking buttons report improved relationships with happier dogs who enjoy creating meaningful word combinations.

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Getting Started

If you’d like to try for two-way conversations with your dog, several companies sell talking-button starter kits, such as:

Not every dog is a good match for talking buttons, so consider your dog’s age, physical condition, interest in games and puzzles, and ongoing efforts to share requests or information with you. Puppies have a head start as they are constantly in learning mode and interested in trying new things, especially things that have built-in rewards, but older dogs can enjoy talking buttons, too. Pressing the buttons doesn’t require much strength or coordination, but the task can be difficult for very small breeds or dogs with physical challenges. Another consideration is your interest in serious communication, your schedule, and your willingness to add frequent training sessions to your everyday life.

As your dog’s vocabulary expands, it’s easy to add additional buttons, arranging them on a mat or board designed to hold buttons in easily accessible positions. Several talking-button resources offer do-it-yourself instructions, and some manufacturers sell boards that hold buttons securely.

Position your dog’s buttons where they are easy for him to access and not in a busy hallway or noisy part of the house. The closer and more convenient the buttons are, the more likely your dog is to try them.

Most talking buttons allow users to record short words or phrases. Popular first words for starter kits are whatever your dog hears frequently, such as “go for a walk,” “play outside,” “time to eat,” “goodbye,” “bedtime,” or “love you.”

Build Your Buttons Vocabulary

Some talking-button boards are designed to hold 30, 40, or more buttons, but the best way to start is with a single button. The more you press the button and incorporate its word into conversation with your dog, the faster she will learn to press the button herself.

To create a word list, write down the words you use most often when talking to your dog and aim for words that your dog recognizes and enjoys. Choose one to start with and don’t rush to add more words because it takes time for dogs to learn how buttons work and what they mean.

Training Strategies

On her website, Christine Hunger describes three approaches to teaching your pet to talk. The first, called Aided Language Input, models words by playing a recorded button just before or after you say its word. For example, if you want your dog to learn how to say “go outside,” you could press the “go outside” button and say, “Let’s go outside” or “Want to go outside?” and then do exactly that – go outside. Pairing words with actions that match their meaning teaches your dog what the words mean and which buttons produce them.

The second strategy is Focused Language Stimulation, also known as repetition, repetition, repetition. By focusing on a single word during short training sessions, you create opportunities to use it, and all that repetition helps your dog remember it. Hunger recommends modeling the target word dozens of times in a short period.

The third approach she describes is Increased Wait Time. This means waiting patiently while your dog figures things out. Hunger recommends pausing for 15 seconds after each statement as you talk to your pet. As she notes, some of the most successful communication has come at the end of what feels like an eternity of expectant waiting.

Talking Button Books and Support

How Stella Learned to Talk: The Groundbreaking Story of the World’s First Talking Dog by Christine Hunger (William Morrow/Harper Collins, 2021).

Teach Your Dog to Talk: A Beginner’s Guide to Training Your Dog to Communicate with Word Buttons by Stephanie Rocha (Ulysses Press, 2021).

Teach Your Dog to Speak Human: Increase Your Bond with Your Dog by Using Buttons, Soundboards, and Easy Phrases by Lacy Nelson (Kindle Edition, 2023).

The Talking Dog Journal: Track Your Dog’s Progress Learning to Use a Soundboard to Talk (Talking Dog Press, 2019).

Facebook groups devoted to this subject include:

For more on another novel method of communicating with your dog, see “Teaching Your Dog to Read.”

The Importance of Mental Stimulation for Dogs

By
Kate O'Connor
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0
Walks and other activities are good mental stimulation for dogs.
From walks to enrichment toys, there are a lot of ways to provide good mental stimulation for dogs. Credit: alexei_tm | Getty Images

Dog or human, nobody likes being bored. While some boredom is inevitable—this is, after all, real life we’re talking about—proper mental stimulation for dogs can be a significant factor in a their overall quality of life.

Consistent periods of prolonged boredom can be frustrating for dogs, often leading to the dog trying to come up with her own entertainment to feel better. This often results in undesirable behaviors such as constant barking, nipping at human and dog family members for attention, or chewing on the furniture. A lack of mental stimulation can also contribute to a dog becoming disengaged and depressed, which can be harder to identify. How, then, do we provide good mental stimulation for dogs?

Is My Dog Bored?

It’s important to note that a lack of activity doesn’t necessarily mean a dog is bored. Dogs do not need to be entertained every waking moment to be happy. In addition, individuals will have different needs. A high-energy thinker—imagine your stereotypical Border Collie—will likely need a lot of focused mental stimulation to be content. Others, like the lovely who-knows-what shelter dog I grew up with, seem to feel as though just living life (with, in her case, a bunch of active kids around to keep track of) is enough to be going on with.

The goal is to find the right balance of rest, play, and work for your individual dog. Pay attention to her body language and behavior. Some signs a dog might be bored include:

  • Excessive barking
  • Destructive behavior
  • Excess energy/zoomies
  • Overexcitement
  • Listlessness/lethargy
  • Anxiety
  • Short temper/grouchy

Luckily, there are several easy ways to get your dog engaged and mentally stimulated.

Training

One of the simplest ways to provide mental stimulation for dogs is to do some training on a daily basis. For this purpose, it doesn’t really matter what cues you are teaching your dog. Asking her to pay attention and figure out what you want her to do is what engages her brain and gets her thinking. Teaching something new can be especially useful if she seems bored with the cues she already knows. Picking a few simple tricks is a great place to start.

If that seems daunting, remember that training sessions don’t need to be long to be effective—5-10 minutes a few times a day usually works well. For me, I try to get in a brief training session right before the morning walk, another at lunch or when I wrap up work in the evening, and one more before bed. If you’re short on time, even one 5-minute session a day is worth it.

When life is particularly hectic, I have had good luck with signing up for a training class. While it may seem counterintuitive to take on one more thing when you are already really busy, I find that having a set spot on my schedule every week means I am more likely to make time for training. As an added bonus, going to class means my dog gets the extra stimulation of a trip to a new place with other people and dogs to interact with.

Mental Stimulation for Aging Dogs
Mental stimulation for dogs is especially important for senior dogs.
Even at 13 years old, Suki—pictured here in her sweater—loved to socialize and explore. Giving her plenty of safe opportunities to do so helped keep her mentally engaged. Credit: Kate O’Connor

While the way to provide mental stimulation for dogs may change over time, the need for mental stimulation itself does not. Aging and elderly dogs are often at risk of getting less than they need as their ability to move and play diminishes. It can be difficult to find good ways to compensate for the physical and mental challenges that come with old age, but it’s not impossible.

My dog Suki lived to see 13 and a half—a goodly age for an Airedale—but suffered from some health problems that affected her physically and cognitively as she got older. The long, rambling walks we used to go on fell by the wayside and there were times when simple cues she’d mastered as a puppy just didn’t make sense to her. She was still herself—sassy, dignified, and serene—just more frail and forgetful.

I floundered, trying to figure out how to adapt when the routines we’d had since she was a teeny ball of fluff no longer worked. I could see her beginning to disengage and shut down. It felt like I was failing her.

Around the same time, I started her on physical therapy. Before long, she was going to the PT equipment and asking for sessions. She didn’t always remember what she was supposed to be doing but she was all about doing it. I let go of some of my heartache over what she had forgotten and got back into a training routine. I reminded myself that there was nothing wrong with teaching a sit over and over again. It was new and exciting to her each time and that was what mattered.

Suki began to come back to me, becoming more alert and showing more interest in what was going on around her again. I started taking her on short trips. We even went to the beech, which I’d been avoiding since she didn’t have the strength to walk through deep sand. Instead, I carried her down to the edge of the water. She lit up when she smelled the ocean. For 15 minutes she was like a puppy again, playing in the waves and trotting after seagulls. That was all she had the energy for, but she came home happy and content in a way she hadn’t been in far too long.

As she continued to age and weaken, I went back to some of the early development work I’ve done with young puppies. I brought her fun things to sniff, played music she liked (she had STRONG preferences), and offered her objects in a variety of textures to explore as she lounged in her dog bed. We continued to play those games until the very end of her life.

It took time for me to understand that what had been missing was how to provide good mental stimulation for Suki in her senior years. When I got the message, it made all the difference. Her life—and mine—were far richer for it.

Exercise and Travel

Proper exercise is foundational when it comes to keeping your dog in a good mental place. That said, following the same old path, while good for keeping in shape, can get boring. There are a number of ways to make your walks more mentally stimulating:

  • Pick a different route: Even just following your usual path in reverse can make it more exciting for a dog who is used to doing the same thing every day.
  • Pause for training: Ask your dog for the occasional sit, down, or other cue that she knows as you are walking. You can even turn sections of the walk into heelwork practice. Build up the number and complexity of things you are asking for over time and don’t be afraid to get fancy with it. The trick to making a walk truly mentally stimulating is to mix it up and keep it fun. However, not every walk needs to be complicated—be sure to vary this type of “working” walk with more relaxed exploratory walks.
  • Go with friends: If your dog likes the company of other dogs and/or people, see about arranging a group walk. Bringing others along can add a layer of interest to an otherwise commonplace event.
  • Go somewhere different: Taking a walk at a park or around a store that allows dogs is a great way to get some variety.
  • Do something else entirely: If your dog is physically healthy enough, varying the type of exercise she is getting, such as going for a run or swim, can be beneficial.

Travel is another good way to provide mental stimulation for dogs. Even if you’re not going out with the goal of getting some exercise, visiting somewhere new—provided your dog does well in the car—is often an exciting break from the norm. These kinds of experiences engage your dog’s brain by offering a plethora of new things to see, smell, and explore.

Dog Sports

Signing up for a dog sport can be a great source of mental stimulation for dogs and their humans. Along with providing enrichment, participating in a dog sport is one of the best ways to build the bond between handler and dog. It’s also a whole lot of fun! Some of the many options include:

  • Agility
  • Scent work/tracking
  • Fast CAT (Coursing Ability Test)
  • Dock diving
  • Flyball
  • Herding
  • Canicross
  • Rally/obedience
  • Heelwork to music

A good way to get started in dog sports is to find a group or club that is actively involved in the one you are interested in. Such groups often teach classes for beginners or can direct you to a good, knowledgeable trainer who does. Be sure to do your research and make sure the group’s approach to the sport aligns with your own. If you are just looking to have fun, signing up with a highly competitive club—or vice versa—will likely end in disappointment.

If nothing is available in your area, don’t lose hope! There are often online classes or video resources you can use to get started.

Playtime and Socialization

Taking time each day to play with your dog can go a long way toward alleviating her boredom. Playtime is a positive way to connect with your dog and get her thinking about how best to hunt down that ball! If your dog likes toys, you can keep her interest fresh—and keep the toys stimulating—by rotating them every few weeks. Some mentally stimulating games are:

  • Hide-and-seek: In addition to being mentally stimulating, hide-and-seek is a good game for improving a dog’s recall. To play, find a hiding spot—pick an easy one to begin with such as just stepping out of the room beyond the dog’s line of sight. Call your dog enthusiastically. When she comes to find you, praise her and reward her with a treat or toy. As she gets used to the game, you can move to more difficult-to-find hiding spots.
  • Fetch: To teach a dog to fetch, start with an object she is already interested in. Wiggle it around until she’s excited about it, then toss it. Keep throws short to begin with and take a few steps backwards when your dog starts to come back to you. For a more detailed explanation of how to successfully get your dog to play fetch and common mistakes to avoid see “How to Teach a Dog to Play Fetch.”
  • Find it: For the simplest version of this game, you can hide a treat in the palm of one hand, close both fists, and hold them out to your dog. When she noses the correct hand, praise her and let her have the treat. Once she has mastered that version, you can increase the difficulty by hiding a treat under a cup and having her search for it among several similar cups.
  • Tug: When properly taught, tug—where human and dog each take one end of a toy and pull—can be a great, mentally stimulating game to play with your dog. There are a few ground rules to keep it safe and fun for all involved. First, it should be an invitation only game, meaning that unless you initiate the game, don’t play. Next, teach your dog to release the toy when you ask. Keep in mind that tugging should be done sideways, not up-and-down, to avoid spinal injuries and should be kept gentle for puppies and elderly or frail dogs. For an in-depth discussion of how to play tug with your dog see “Eight Rules for Playing Tug of War With Your Dog.”

Playing and socializing with other dogs is also mentally stimulating. Regular playdates with friendly dogs can be a great way to help your dog stay mentally engaged, especially if she is the only dog in the house. It doesn’t have to be off-leash play. Going on walks with friends is good, too.

Mental Stimulation Toys for Dogs

On the play front, there are a lot of toys on the market these days specifically designed to provide mental stimulation for dogs. Interactive puzzle toys in particular can give a dog a lot to think about. As discussed in “The Best Dog Puzzle Toys,” the trick is finding puzzles that are difficult enough to engage your dog without being so hard the she gets frustrated and gives up. You’ll also need to be prepared to help out if she gets stuck and keep an eye on her while she’s working on them, as most puzzle toys are safest when used with supervision.

Food dispensing toys can also offer a lot of entertainment and mental stimulation for dogs. Among the many options available are snuffle mats, kibble dribblers, toys that can be stuffed with food, slow feeders, and electric dispensers. I usually feed my dog several meals a week via snuffle mat or kibble dribbler rather than her bowl—much to her delight.

For more on how to choose the right food dispenser for your dog see “The Best Food Dispensing Dog Toys.”

Dog Life Expectancy After Heartworm Treatment

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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0
Heartworms transmitted by mosquitos can dramatically lessen a dog's lifespan.
Heartworm is transmitted through a mosquito bite. If your dog contracts heartworm, the sooner treatment is started the better your dog’s life expectancy. Credit: taaree | Getty Images

Without treatment, heartworm disease will shorten a dog’s natural life expectancy. With treatment, especially if the disease is discovered early (hence the veterinary recommendation for annual heartworm testing!), many dogs will have close to a normal life expectancy. Even with treatment, once a dog is infected with heartworm, irreversible damage has been done, especially to the lung tissue. The treatment for heartworms is not without risk, and it can be inconvenient and expensive. Prevention is far wiser than risking disease.

Signs of Heartworm in Dogs

Clinical signs of heartworm disease can be easy to miss and vary depending on the severity of the disease but include:

  • Mild cases: May not have any clinical signs, or just a cough.
  • Moderate cases: May include a cough, exercise intolerance, and abnormal lung sounds.
  • Severe cases: May show abnormal heart sounds, difficulty breathing, liver enlargement, syncope (fainting), fluid accumulation in the abdomen, and death

The onset from the heartworm infection to these clinical signs varies depending on the number of worms in, the body size of the dog, and the dog’s activity level. In general, small, active dogs with higher worm burden have it worse.

How Heartworms Hurt a Dog

The harm that heartworms cause in an affected dog’s body includes:

  • Damage to the lungs and the blood vessels in the lungs
  • Dead and dying worms can cause thromboembolic events (clots)
  • Pulmonary hypertension
  • Kidney damage due to accumulation of antigen-antibody complexes
  • Large number of heartworms invading the right side of the heart (severe cases)

Heartworms take up much physical space in the heart and interfere with the proper functioning of the tricuspid valve, thus reducing the ability of the heart to pump blood to other parts of the body. This is called “caval syndrome,” and it is characterized by hemolytic anemia, lethargy, weakness, and other signs of right-sided heart failure. Caval syndrome requires urgent surgical extraction of the worms from the heart to save the patient.

Did You Know?

Heartworm is a parasitic disease of dogs and wild canids, including fox and coyote. It also can affect cats, ferrets, sea lions, and rarely, humans. The immature heartworm nematodes (microfilariae) are passed from an infected dog to another susceptible dog via an infected mosquito. After six to nine months of maturation, adult heartworms are 12 inches long and can start breeding to continue the life cycle. Adult heartworms can live for five to seven years.

Prevent Heartworm

Effective preventatives can prevent this awful disease from affecting the health of your beloved dog. These preventatives are economical and convenient, available in oral, topical, and injectable forms. Some preventatives are combined with flea, tick, and intestinal parasite prevention as well.

Using heartworm prevention as directed by your dog’s veterinarian will help maximize your dog’s life expectancy. More information about heartworm disease, its treatment and prevention can be found at the website of the American Heartworm Society.

Why Is My Dog Losing Hair?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Your dog losing hair is upsetting, but hair loss isn't always harmful.
Regularly brushing your dog’s coat helps remove dead hair and keeps the dog’s coat shiny and healthy. Credit: Petko Ninov | Getty Images

Finding your dog losing hair in patches and scabs can be upsetting. Before you panic, however, remember that alopecia, which is hair loss, in dogs is natural. It’s when you see abnormal skin under those hair clumps that you can worry.

If you see hair loss, first rule out simple causes. Does your dog’s collar or harness rub on an area that is now bald? Does your dog routinely struggle to slide under furniture or fences, thereby rubbing off hair? In these cases, hair loss is generally symmetrical and the skin itself is fine.

Seasonal Alopecia in Dogs

Dogs shed. It’s normal, and the skin underneath is healthy and ready to grow more hair. Natural causes for alopecia include:

  • Routine seasonal sheds, when the coat turns over from season changes
  • The dog’s coat changing from puppy coat to adult hair
  • Coat “blowing” after a bitch has whelped and weaned her puppies

Some dogs will have minimal sheds, while others look like unkept dogs for a bit. Some dogs have what we call “pluckables,” which are clumps of free hair that are easily removed from the dog’s coat. A short-coated dog may just leave a bit of hair on your clothes or hand when you pet them. In these cases, the skin underneath should look normal, the coat overall is affected, and the hair will grow back.

Seasonal sheds/alopecia are affected by temperature and light, which influence the phases of hair growth. Some dogs lose hair faithfully every spring and fall, while others may only do so once a year. While there are products touted to help speed up or reduce shedding, the reality is that a good diet and regular grooming do as much good as any supplement when it comes to seasonal alopecia.

When to Worry About Dog Hair Loss

If the hair loss is patchy and accompanied by scabs, dandruff, inflamed areas, or obvious infection with pustules, seek veterinary help. “The most common cause of alopecia in dogs is trauma from scratching, chewing, pulling, or licking,” says William Miller Jr., VMD, emeritus professor of dermatology at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine.

The bare patches and scabs are secondary to chewing and itching. While some dogs are a bit secretive, most dogs will openly chew their own skin, making you aware you need to find the cause, such as folliculitis. Sebaceous adenitis is a disease of glands in the skin that can cause hair loss.

Dog Hair Loss and Parasites

Fleas and other external parasites lead the list for itchiness in dogs. With careful observation, you should be able to spot fleas. Look for scattering insects as you comb through your dog’s coat. You’ll usually find them around the tailhead or across the thinly haired area of the groin when your dog rolls over. Lice can be seen if you look carefully at hairs and spot the attached nits.

Mites are trickier. Sarcoptic mange mites stimulate severe pruritus but may be hard to find on skin scrapes. One anecdotal way to identify sarcoptic mange is to rub the edges of your dog’s ear together. If that sets off intense scratching, sarcoptic mange is a strong possibility. Demodectic mites are also found by skin scrapes.

Hair-Loss Diseases in Dogs

Once parasites are ruled out, finding the causes for hair loss becomes a bit more involved. Cultures for fungal infections like think ringworm may be recommended or an endocrine panel might be suggested. Endocrine panels might identify hypothyroidism. Some breeds have inherited alopecia conditions such as Alopecia X in Pomeranians, which causes hair loss and pigmentation of the skin.

Itching and scratching, of course, can also be due to allergies, such as from food that doesn’t agree with your dog.

Hydrolyzed Protein Dog Food

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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8
Hydrolyzed protein dog food is an option for dogs with allergies and sensitive stomachs.
Proteins in hydrolyzed-protein dog foods retain their nutritional value, ensuring your dog’s food is nutritionally complete and balanced.

Finding a suitable food for dogs with dietary sensitivities, allergies, or chronic digestive issues can be a challenge, and often veterinarians suggest foods that contain hydrolyzed proteins as a solution. By feeding a hydrolyzed diet, you can ensure your dog is getting complete and balanced nutrition while you methodically isolate and identify dietary triggers. So, what is hydrolyzed protein, why is it used, and are there any side effects to be concerned about when feeding it to your dog?

Protein Problems

When dogs have sensitivities or reactions to food, proteins are often the cause (chicken is the most common protein in dog foods). Proteins are large, complex molecules, with unique shapes and characteristics. Sometimes, the immune system can mistake these proteins as a threat and attack them, causing an inflammatory, or immune, response that can leave dogs feeling itchy, lethargic, and sick.

However, the process of hydrolyzation uses enzymes to break proteins down into smaller, more easily digestible pieces, such as amino acids and peptides. These smaller pieces are less likely to trigger an immune response in the body, making hydrolyzed-protein food an ideal choice for dogs with food sensitivities or allergies.

Hydrolyzed Proteins Are Nutritious

Despite being broken down into smaller pieces, hydrolyzed proteins retain their nutritional value. When dogs eat protein, their bodies break down the proteins into individual amino acids that can then be used to repair cells, build muscles, create enzymes, and more. But with hydrolyzed proteins, the hard work of digesting the protein down into those smaller components has already been done, making these proteins more bioavailable than intact proteins.

Side Effects of Hydrolyzed Protein Dog Food

While there are many benefits to feeding diets that contain hydrolyzed protein, there are some downsides to them as well:

  • Price: Hydrolyzed proteins are more expensive than traditional proteins due to the specialized processing they must undergo. This added cost makes the resulting food expensive, especially for large breeds who need to eat large quantities of food, or for dogs who need to be on these specialized diets long-term.
  • Palatability: While intact proteins tend to be tasty, amino acids can be bitter, making some hydrolyzed foods less tasty than traditional diets. Because of this, pickier dogs may not be willing to consume hydrolyzed diets.
  • GI Upset: While hydrolyzed proteins are generally easier to digest, some dogs may experience gastrointestinal upset during the transition period onto the new diet. Temporary diarrhea, vomiting, and flatulence may occur as your dog’s digestive system adjusts to the new food.

Diets using hydrolyzed proteins can be a valuable solution for dogs with food sensitivities, allergies, or digestive issues. Hydrolyzed diets can offer benefits such as reduced allergenicity and improved digestibility, while still providing your dog with complete and balanced nutrition. Of course, cost considerations and a dog’s willingness to eat the diet due to palatability concerns are factors that need to be weighed when choosing a hydrolyzed diet for your pet. As always, consult your veterinarian if your dog requires specialized dietary support.

Updates on Some Blog Posts From the Past Year

By
Nancy Kerns
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1
DJ has sadly left his family behind and will be missed.
Why are some of the nicest dogs in the world given terrible bodies? I’m grateful that he at least enjoyed love and comfort to the very end.

As dog owners, we all know ups and downs. As my friend Dr. Sarah Richardson would say, “Life with dogs is so emotional!” I thought I’d share some of the recent happy and sad outcomes to some of the stories I’ve shared with you this year, starting with the most recent and going back in time.

 

 

 

All I Want For Christmas

A few weeks ago, I told you about an accident that befell Boone—one that I directly caused by unthinkingly tossing a ball toward Boone and Woody in the living room. Woody made a grab for the ball but it bounced out of his mouth toward a steel-framed end-table, with Boone in hot pursuit. He lunged competitively toward the ball and ran smack into the edge of the table, whereupon I heard a distinct CRACK! I turned to see Boone licking his lips, a dismayed expression on his face, and realized that the sound may have been his teeth. I looked in his mouth, and sure enough, I saw that the two teeth in the top, front, and center of his mouth were neatly broken off at the gum line.

Do not throw balls in the house! Not even little soft tosses!

Boone underwent surgery to remove the tooth roots, and x-rays indicated that the roots of the adjacent teeth are, so far, looking OK. Hopefully, the two front ones are the only ones he’ll lose.  Interestingly, the vet told me to soak his food (or feed wet food) and hand-feed him all of his meals by squeezing his food into little meatball shapes for more than a week; she didn’t want him shoving his face into a bowl of food until the incision was well on its way to healing. That was a good tip!

Boone is recovering nicely after surgery for his broken teeth.
The surgical site where Boone had the broken-off roots of his two front teeth removed is healing nicely. The roots of those seemingly small teeth are very long, and the incision was a big one.

However, I did get a stern talking-to about the need to brush Boone’s teeth. The veterinarian showed me photos of some gum recession and periodontitis she spotted in the back of Boone’s mouth, which called for a thorough veterinary dental cleaning while he was under anesthesia for the tooth removal. He’s only two years old! But dogs experience the accumulation of dental plaque at various rates, and even though 8-year-old Woody has not needed a dental cleaning yet, Boone did! I need to get and stay on top of that.

Placing an Angel

In a post about “home-to-home fostering,” I mentioned how I was fostering a dog whom I hoped might be a good fit for a 90-year-old friend of one of my neighbors. When we think of 90-year-olds adopting dogs, we probably mostly think that a small dog would be the best fit, but Ursula, the 90-year-old in question, previously owned a succession of Boxers and Boxer-mixes, and she really wanted another one. I found a 3-year-old candidate in my local shelter, a white female dog with blue eyes whom the shelter was calling Angel. I brought Angel home for a few days, to assess whether she might be calm and well-mannered enough to live safely with Ursula, and I grew more and more impressed with how sweet and well-adjusted the dog was.

I brought Angel to Ursula’s home for a short visit, and the two of them hit it off. After keeping Angel for a trial weekend, Ursula called me to say she was sure, she wanted to adopt Angel, but she was going to name the dog Cassie. When I explained that would be fine, because the dog didn’t really even know the name Angel (unclaimed strays get named by the shelter, so they don’t have to be called by numbers), Ursula was happy. I’ve visited the pair a couple of times since the adoption went through—once, by happenstance on Ursula’s birthday— and Ursula told me that, despite the flowers and balloons and phone calls she received while I was visiting, Cassie is the best birthday present she’s had in years.

Home to home fostering offers dogs a smoother more well socialized route to adoption.
Cassie in her new home with toys, treats, beds, and whatever blankets she prefers.

Woody’s Weight Loss Journey

Back in January, I mentioned that somehow, Woody had ballooned into an 80-pound dog over the past year. (I am not going to talk about my own weight gain during the same period! Ack!) I took the opportunity of bringing Boone to the vet to weigh Woody on the vet’s scales, to see how much progress we had made in slimming him down some. He’s six pounds lighter! I want to get him at least two or three pounds slimmer still, but we’re on track.

A Favorite, Forever Altered

Last October, I shared the story about discovering that Woody’s favorite toy of all time—the Orbee Tuff Squeak Ball—seemed to have been discontinued, and that a similar-looking ball masquerading as Woody’s favorite was being shipped in its place. I promised that I would order some of the new balls and try them out.

Alas, the new ball neither had the same molded-in squeaker, nor the same mouth-feel, nor the same durability that Woody and I had enjoyed so much. However, we’ve been making do with two other balls that Woody finds nearly as enjoyable: Planet Dog’s Orbee Tuff Baseball and the Chuckit Max Glow Ball. He likes the squishiness of these two balls, and doesn’t try to chew them to bits. (Balls that are made of firmer material get chewed to bits, including the new version of the Squeak ball. Bummer!)

Foster Dog Heartbreak and Success

Last summer, I fostered two litters of puppies who were born to mothers (likely sisters) who both came into my local shelter from a hoarding situation. One litter I took on fairly early, as the mother was protective of the pups in the shelter, which did not endear her to the kennel workers; the other litter I took on a bit later, when it was time for them to be weaned. The first litter was healthier, and got adopted fairly quickly; but the four pups from the second litter weren’t so lucky.

I discussed two of the four pups at length: one was socially very strange, almost autistic; and the other was one of the sweetest and friendly pups ever, but had a variety of strange health conditions.

In that linked blog post, I reported that the sweet puppy whom the shelter had dubbed “Junior” had been diagnosed with Ehler Danlos Syndrome; this explained all the weird conditions he had been plagued with: swollen joints, a knee that seemed like it kept popping out of place, and skin that tore like paper. The diagnosis came after a family had met and fallen in love with the puppy, and though they could have pulled the plug on his adoption, knowing that they were potentially in for a lot of veterinary bills, they adopted him anyway and called him “DJ.”

About the time that DJ got adopted, one of the other puppies in the same litter started experiencing the exact same injuries that we had seen in DJ early on: ball-like swelling on his hocks and elbows, and unexplained skin tears. Given that the dogs involved in this cruelty/neglect/hoarding case had all been related, and likely highly inbred, it was assumed that both pups had inherited the condition. Since no one had shown any interest in that pup in the shelter, and with a likely diagnosis of the same untreatable disease plaguing DJ, the shelter euthanized him.

And tragically, despite living in a home with a family who took every precaution to keep him safe , DJ kept getting hurt. He suffered from a multitude of skin tears, no matter how they tried to manage his activity (even when just playing at home); each one required very careful treatment from the veterinarian who diagnosed him with EDS, as stitching or stapling the fragile skin was fraught. The laxity of his first (and then also second) knee joint got worse and worse, but the vet didn’t think that even surgery to try to stabilize the joints would work; his skin and connective tissue was just too delicate. He had to be maintained on pain medication, and his mobility got worse and worse with his knees dislocating constantly.

All the love and the care in the world could not keep DJ in one piece, and a week ago, amid great sorrow, his family and their veterinarian agreed that it was time to end his suffering. They spent one last weekend lavishing love and attention on the sweet little dog, and when they awoke on the morning of his euthanasia appointment to find a huge new skin tear that he apparently suffered in his sleep, they took it as a sign they were doing the correct but very hard thing. The dad sent me a photo of him they had taken over the weekend, saying, “Thank you again for allowing DJ into our lives. I took this picture of him last night. It hides most of his cuts so I think it’s a great picture.”

Oh, my sweet puppy. I am so glad you had such a loving and devoted family for your short life. And I’m so sorry—and continue to be so angry—about people who allow their dogs to breed indiscriminately, without any regard for the suffering their carelessness inflicts on the dogs they create.

Chrissy continues to be adorable and friendly.
Thank goodness, Chrissy has not shown any sign of having the same inherited condition as her brothers

One bit of happier news: After crying for a day about DJ, I screwed up my courage and contacted the woman who adopted the puppy with the strange aloofness—the one who seemed to have some sort of autism. I was scared that she might report that Chrissy (her new name) might be suffering some of the same symptoms as her brothers, DJ and the unnamed puppy. Thankfully, the owner reported that Chrissy was perfectly healthy, if still somewhat aloof and apprehensive about humans she didn’t know. Her owner said that even with her quirks, Chrissy is a much-loved member and fully accepted member of her family.

Symptoms of Dog Hypothermia

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dogs can get hypothermia even in warm weather if they get wet during a swim or rainstorm.
Warm a dog experiencing hypothermia slowly by bringing him into a warm room and wrapping him in a towel or blanket. Credit: Alexandra Jursova | Getty Images

When you think “hypothermia,” you likely think winter, however, a dog can get hypothermic even in summer if he is swimming and playing in cold water. Remember that wind and wet add to chill factors along with just temperature.

At first, with mild hypothermia, the symptoms or signs you will see are your dog shivering and lying down all curled up tight in an attempt to stay warm. At lower body temperatures, your dog’s body will start to shut down, slowing metabolism, and shifting blood flow to essential areas.

As the body temperature continues to drop, heart and respiratory rates increase briefly, trying to get things back to normal but then gradually slow down. Your dog’s gums may be pale with a slow capillary refill time. The dog will act depressed or logy and may lose consciousness in severe cases.

Technically, hypothermia is when your dog’s internal temperature drops to abnormally low, which is generally 98 to 99 degrees Fahrenheit or lower (normal canine body temperature is 101 to 102.5 degrees F).

How Long Does It Take to Get Hypothermia?

Neonatal puppies can develop fatal hypothermia quickly. Healthy adult dogs are more resistant to environmental factors due to body size, especially if the dog is heavily coated. Many of the livestock guarding breeds, if acclimated, are comfortable down to well below freezing temperatures, especially if they are dry and can get out of the wind.

My Cirneco dell’Etna dog, who weighs about 30 lbs and has a very short coat, loves to run and play in the snow. The minute he slows down, however, he starts to chill. He needs a coat, sometimes with fleece PJs underneath. My Belgian Tervurens, however, stay out much longer in cold weather and will happily lie down in snow and hang out.

How Long Does It Take A Dog To Recover From Hypothermia?

Recovery from a bout of hypothermia depends on many factors, including how low the body temperature became. A dry, cold dog can be warmed up faster and more easily than a wet, cold dog.

Warm the dog slowly. Bring your dog into a warm room and wrap him in a warm towel. Dry him off carefully. Do not do a lot of rubbing. If your dog has any degree of frostbite, rubbing can injure those susceptible tissues. That is especially true of tissues like ears and toes. Dogs with severe hypothermia may benefit from a veterinary visit to evaluate frostbite risk and for administration of warmed IV fluids.

Do Dogs Have Taste Buds?

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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Dog taste buds work in a different way than human taste buds do.
Dogs have 1,700 taste buds, ultimately making them a bit less picky than humans when it comes to food. However, dogs use their sense of smell deciding what to eat. Credit Aleksandr Potashev | Getty Images

Dogs have taste buds on their tongue and in the back of their throat. Taste buds, of course, are little bumps that carry taste receptors.

Dogs have approximately 1,700 taste buds, less than 20% of what humans have. This difference in number of taste buds might help to explain why dogs can be much less discriminating in what they prefer to eat, compared to their humans.

 

Where Are Specific Taste Buds?

  • Sweet – These taste buds tend to be located in the front of the tongue.
  • Salt – These taste buds tend to be located closer to the front of the tongue and are less sensitive than in humans.
  • Bitter/sour – These taste buds are located on the back of the tongue.
  • Meat/fat – These taste buds are thought to have their origin in the diet of ancestral canids being meat-based.
  • Water – Water is not tasteless in dogs as it is for people. These taste buds are located at the tip of the tongue, and they become more sensitive if the dog is thirsty, or after eating a meal.

Just Say No to Sour or Spicy

Dogs tend to avoid sour or spicy foods, as these flavors are often associated with unsafe foods in the wilderness, such as food that has spoiled. Spicy foods are not favored because many spices can cause digestive system discomfort, from the oral cavity, and throughout the rest of the gastrointestinal system. Be careful with all seasonings when feeding your dog.

Dogs also use their sense of smell (the most sensitive of the five senses in the dog) when deciding what to eat. If your dog does not have a good appetite, making the food more aromatic (moist food instead of dry kibble, slightly warming the food) might help.

Help Has Arrived

By
Nancy Kerns
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Whole dog journal editor Kate O'connor with her dogs.
Kate O’Connor with her Airedales, 2-year-old Carmen and 13-year-old Suki.

Eagle-eyed subscribers may have noticed the addition of new names to the WDJ masthead. Here’s what’s up with that:

I’m taking a step back—but not walking away from—the day-to-day duties of WDJ. Those of you who read WDJ’s online version are likely aware that we post a lot more content on our website than we can fit in the print edition. It’s a ton of work—more than I can keep up with—so our publisher has summoned some fresh horses, as it were.

Please welcome Kate O’Connor, who previously edited other publications for Belvoir Media Group and is a dyed-in-the-wool dog lover. Kate was practically raised in a dog kennel; her aunt has bred and raised champion Airedales from her Wildwood Kennel for more than 40 years—almost longer than Kate has been alive! Kate grew up working in her aunt’s kennel, as well as in veterinary hospitals (including the vet school at Tufts University) and dog-training facilities. She occasionally fosters Airedales and of course has her own young Airedale, Carmen, with whom she “participates” in rally and agility (Kate says “competes” isn’t applicable to their event-ring efforts quite yet). Kate has jumped right into the tasks at hand, writing two of the articles in the June issue and assigning many more.

Whole Dog Editor Cindy Foley walking two paillons on the beach.
Cynthia Foley and her Papillons, 10-year-old Aries (left) and 3-year-old Twisty.

For the past two years—since the initial expansion of our online-only content—I’ve also been assisted by Cindy Foley, another talented colleague from Belvoir Media Group. Cindy is the Executive Editor of DogWatch, which is published in partnership with Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine. Cindy also competes in agility, with dogs at the other end of the size scale: two very athletic Papillons!

I’m thrilled to say that Kate and Cindy are going to take on the lion’s share of assigning and editing articles for WDJ. This will give me an opportunity to write more in-depth pieces on topics that are near and dear to my heart. I’m relishing the opportunity to spend more time on our coverage of the dog-food industry, for a start. I’ve never had as much time as I’ve wanted to dig into pieces on ingredients, formulation, production, and product development and testing, to name just a few food-related topics. I’m also going to be teaching a few classes at a friend’s dog-training facility and will be fostering more pups for my local shelter, which will surely inspire even more fresh fodder for WDJ.

Editor Nancy Kerns walking her dogs and her friends dogs.
Nancy, now getting a chance to do some hiking with her dogs and friends and friends’ dogs!

 

Cooling Vests for Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Cooling vests for dogs can help to keep your pup comfortable on hot days or long hikes.
The Chillybuddy Dog Cooling Vest has a reflective mesh that helps deflect the sun’s rays and an inner lightweight cotton mesh you can wet to help keep your dog cool. Credit: Photo Dr. Eileen Fatcheric

Cooling vests for dogs can help your dog stay cooler in hot weather. The best cooling vests, or coats, for dogs are lightweight, breathable, loose-fitting, and light in color. Anything heavy, tight, or dark will result in more heat absorption and retention, which is obviously not what we want. As the owner of a black sporting dog, I have investigated dog cooling coats extensively, and I have two favorites to share with you:

Dogs Overheat Quickly

It’s important to know when it’s too hot to walk your dog and how to keep your dog cool in summer. While dogs do have sweat glands, they do little to cool a dog’s body on a hot day.  The strongest mechanism dogs have for cooling their bodies is panting, which is also not the most efficient cooling system, unfortunately. That means it is on us, the pet owners, to keep our dogs safe during the dog days of summer. Dog cooling vests are one way to help us help them.

Chillybuddy Dog Cooling Vest

The Chillybuddy Dog Cooling Vest’s outer layer is made of a lightweight, woven plastic with a reflective aluminum coating. It is breathable and reflects the sunlight away to minimize radiant heat absorption by your dog. The inner layer is a perforated light cotton mesh that you can soak with cool water to enhance evaporative cooling for your dog. You can make the most of this by carrying cool water with you and rewetting the vest as needed. The Chillybuddy Dog Cooling Vest is machine washable, durable, and comes in multiple sizes so you can find the best fit for your dog. Prices start at $58.

K9 Cool Coat

Saratoga Horseworks’ K9 Cool Coat is also lightweight, light-colored, and breathable. It is made of one layer of a polyester mesh that can be soaked in cool water to enhance its overall cooling effect. The K9 Cool Coat also provides UVA and UVB protection, so it is especially appealing for dogs with sparser coats who are more prone to sunburn. The K9 Cool Coat is machine washable, durable, and comes in multiple sizes. It costs $49, but you can add features like embroidery for more money.

When Is It Too Hot to Walk a Dog?

Cooling vests can help keep your dog cooler on a hot day, but they are not a free pass to exercise your dog for as long as you want in extreme heat. To keep your dog safe and cool in summer, use common sense: If it’s hot and uncomfortable for you, it’s too hot and too uncomfortable for them.

As a veterinarian, I can tell you that there is no specific temperature that means it’s too hot to walk your dog. Many individual variables are involved in that decision, including your dog’s general health and fitness level, coat color, airway conformation (brachycephalic breeds like Pugs, Bostons, and Bulldogs overheat more easily), and the dog’s degree of acclimatization to the heat.

Pay attention to your dog and familiarize yourself with the early signs of heat stress:

  • Glazed eyes
  • Heavy panting
  • Noticeable tongue enlargement
  • Frothy drool
  • Disorientation

To help keep your dog cool while exercising in hot weather:

  • Choose shady routes as much as possible.
  • Shorten your excursions.
  • Exercise in the early morning and late evening hours when the heat and ferocity of the sun are lowest.
  • Make sure your dog is well-hydrated and has access to water before, during (yes carry water for your dog!), and after exercise.

Training Your Dog To Use Steps

By
Editorial Staff
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Taking Care of Your Senior Dog eBook from Whole Dog Journal

If your dog has never negotiated any kind of steps, here are some things to try. Place the steps against a wall in the common living area of your home – somewhere your dog already enjoys spending time with you. You can play games with your dog near the steps, have a fun training session near the steps, let your dog enjoy a stuffed Kong beside them, and even feed meals from a bowl on or near the steps. Do this for a few days until your dog is fully comfortable being near and passing the steps.

I use a clicker as a marker signal, though you can also use a short word such as “Yes!” to mark the behavior, which will then be reinforced with a piece of food.

Place the steps where your dog will need to use them. Get some pea-sized pieces of yummy food that your dog really loves, such as baked chicken or cheese (try to use a food the dog doesn’t get on a daily basis). Take a piece of food, put it at your dog’s nose and lure him to the first step, mark and reinforce. Take another piece of food and toss it slightly away from the steps (you’re resetting the dog to return to the steps). Because you’re sitting or standing near the steps and you just fed him at the step, he’ll likely quickly return to you.

Going down can be more challenging for dogs. Again, move at your own dog’s pace. You’re going to repeat the same process of luring, marking, and reinforcing your dog for successful negotiation of each step.

If he bypasses the steps by jumping down and around them, no worries. Just lure him back up the steps, then begin again to lure him down. If you move at his pace, your efforts will likely be met with success. If he bypasses the steps several times in a row, end the training session and start again several hours later or even the next day. Each dog gains confidence at a different pace and there’s no need to rush the process.

For more practical advice on supporting your aging dog, download your copy of Taking Care of Your Senior Dog today!

Other Options To Consider

By
Editorial Staff
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Stop Jumping eBook from Whole Dog Journal

There are many other creative options for programming or modifying doorbell behavior.

Here are three:

  1. Try changing your doorbell sound. If your dog has a very strong emotional response to the existing doorbell, it will be easier to give her a new association with a new sound. Don’t actually use it as your new doorbell until you’ve conditioned a very positive response for your dog (or trained her to perform an appropriate operant behavior in response to the new chime). When your training is completed, then substitute the new doorbell in place of the current one.
  2. Get a toy: You can teach your dog that the doorbell is her cue to run to fetch a toy. You can toss the toy for her to fetch (have her offer a sit first!), and thus focus her energies on the toy instead of the doorbell or your guests. You can also teach her to take the toy to your visitors, and construct a polite greeting behavior that includes sitting until they toss the toy for her.
  3. Treat ‘n Train: This unique remote treat-delivery gadget was developed by veterinary behaviorist Sophia Yin for a variety of training and behavior applications, including door manners! The concept is simple. When you push a button, the unit beeps and delivers a treat. Your dog makes the classical association between the “beep” and treat, and quickly learns (operantly) to run to the machine when she hears the beep. The beep becomes the cue to run to the machine.

    Then add the doorbell as the new cue to run to the machine, as in Step 4 of the “mostly operant” approach, above. Ring the doorbell, beep the beep, and the machine delivers. When the doorbell alone sends your dog to the machine, fade the beep cue by utilizing the “mute” feature of the remote: you press the button to deliver a treat but no beep occurs; the doorbell alone sends your dog to the machine for her treat. Gradually increase your dog’s distance from the machine so the doorbell sends her running to her Treat ‘n Train from anywhere in the house.

For more training tips and advice on how to keep your dog from jumping up on people, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Stop Jumping.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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