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Canine Pain Management

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By Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD Pain may be the most enigmatic of all the disease symptoms of man or beast. It is a sensation we all have experienced at one time or another and in varying degrees. But, few of us can explain adequately how a particular pain feels, fewer still can give a reasonable explanation for why pain occurs; and despite all the recent scientific research that has gone into pain, we still have a minimal understanding for how it occurs – or truthfully, for how to consistently prevent or alleviate it. Now, couple all this with the fact that we are dealing with pain in an animal who can’t talk to us, who can’t tell us where or when or how it hurts, and we have further compounded the entire equation.

At its essence, pain is a language that says something is wrong. Ordinary or acute pain is a barometer of tissue health; much like an automobile’s warning system, it raises an alarm whenever something has penetrated the protective shield. Pain is a daily reminder that we and our best buddies are little more than a fragile collection of cells and fluids that can easily be pierced, burned, torn, or broken. Pain sensors occur in most organs of the body – from bone to skin, from nose to tail, and from the gut to the muscles, tendons, and ligaments. Some areas of the body are highly innervated with pain sensors – the areas around joints, for example, and areas that surround vital organs. Other areas, such as a dog’s foot pads, are relatively free of pain sensors. Anatomy of pain Nearly all areas of the body are supplied with pain receptors – actually, sensory neurons. These neurons are activated by inputs that are often very specific for the receptor involved – receptors geared to respond to cold, heat, or tissue damage, for example. Some receptors are more attuned to feeling somatic pain that originates on the skin or deeper in the musculoskeletal system. Other receptors respond to visceral pains that result from inflammation, compression, or stretching of the chest, abdominal, or pelvic viscera. Pain scientists have further defined pain receptors as being nociceptive (pain caused by an injury to body tissues), neuropathic (from abnormalities in nervous system), and psychogenic (pain that is related to emotional or psychogenic concerns). The important part of all this is to understand that there are many kinds of pain; each kind of pain feels different; and each kind of pain will require a slightly different form of therapy. After one or more of the pain receptors have been stimulated, the resulting sensation travels to the spinal cord where the pain messages release chemicals (neurotransmitters). These neurotransmitters activate other nerve cells in the spinal cord, which then processes the information and transmits it up to the brain. Not all pain messages reach the brain. Some are filtered at the level of the spinal cord where they encounter specialized nerve cells, called “gate keepers.” Strong pain messages, such as when an animal touches a hot stove, open the “gate” to wide open, letting the message take an express route to the brain. Weak pain messages, however, such as from a minor scratch, may be filtered out or blocked by the gate. We can affect the gate by altering the messages on the nerve fibers that transmit touch. For example, rubbing or heat decreases the transmission of pain signals. In addition, some of the pain killers, natural and otherwise, work by altering the way the gate opens or filters painful stimuli. Pain messages can also be intensified in the spinal cord where certain nerve cells can act to “wind up” or “sensitize” the pain input so it has more impact on the brain. A recent injury creates an area of hypersensitivity in the area surrounding the trauma that helps to transmit a heightened pain perception to the brain; perhaps this acts as a protective mechanism that tells the body to try to prevent any further damage from occurring at the site of the trauma. At the same time that all of this modulation of pain is going on, the instigator of the pain (a splinter, for example) may be causing local inflammation, and the products of inflammation cause more pain and swelling. Examples of inflammatory agents include bradykinin, several of the prostaglandins, and at least one of the enzymes that synthesize prostaglandins, cyclooxygenase 2 (Cox-2). The pain and swelling of inflammation may also act as a protective mechanism by isolating the injury, and the increased blood flow to the area speeds healing. Once the pain message reaches the brain, it interacts with nerve cells there, and these reactions can either subdue the pain or ratchet up the animal’s perception of the pain. There are numerous sites in the brain where pain is processed, including the reticular formation (which is responsible for producing an increase in heart and respiratory rates and elevation of blood pressure), and the thalamus and cerebral cortex, where conscious awareness of pain occurs. The brain contains natural painkillers, including endorphins and enkephalins, which diminish the pain messages. But the animal’s emotional or psychological state may cause him to perceive the pain at a higher level. Consider the dog who once had a painful experience at the vet’s office. The next visit, because the dog has been anticipating more pain from the moment he walks in the door, he screams bloody murder at the mere sight of the needle. Chronic pain All the above describes acute pain; chronic pain has a slightly different pattern. Chronic pain is any pain that persists beyond the time expected for an injury or illness to heal. With chronic pain, no longer can the pain be viewed as the symptom of another disease, but as an illness unto itself. Any pain that has persisted for six months or longer is considered to be chronic. Chronic pain may cause the same sensations as acute pain – jabbing, throbbing, stinging, burning, sharp, dull, tingling, or aching. (While we can’t be certain dogs can perceive pain as we do, their reactions to it indicate that they probably do.) Further, pain may be constant or it may come and go. Chronic pain often accompanies chronic diseases such as arthritis, cancer, diabetes, or some skin conditions, but long-term pain may also stem from the aftereffects of an accident, infection, or surgery. In addition, each and every critter (including each human) has his or her personal ability to tolerate pain. There are two terms used to describe the way an individual feels and responds to pain: Pain threshold is that point where we feel the sensation of pain; pain tolerance is that point where we feel we must remove ourselves from the source of the pain. Now, while the pain threshold may be relatively constant, an individual’s ability to tolerate pain is dependent on many factors. Different pain stimuli may affect an individual in different ways. Someone who can stoically leave his hand in ice water for long periods, for example, may want to scream from the pain of a minor needle prick. And, that same person may have “good” days and “bad” days – some days he can endure needle pricks with almost no sensation; other days are his “scream at the needle” days. Dogs are exactly the same. Some are pain tolerant for one type of pain, while that same dog will go absolutely nutty over another type of pain. And as individuals, they can have their good (stoic) days and their bad (wimpy) days. No one knows quite why this happens in humans or dogs, but added emotions – fear, depression, anxiety, for example – may have something to do with a lowered pain tolerance. Further, the very concept of pain and how we and our pets deal with it is related to the culture we were reared in, our gender, environmental factors, and the pain being suffered by others nearby. Certain dog breeds are known for their stoicism under pain and others wilt at the mere thought of pain. In humans, men and women are apparently very different when it comes to pain tolerance, but this has not yet been shown in dogs. Experimental evidence from trials on mice show that brain waves of those mice that were sitting placidly in a cage nearby, closely mirror the brain waves of the mice that were in obvious pain. Empathetic pain is apparently a very real phenomenon. Dogs do associate past painful experiences with the environment where they occurred, which is why the vet’s office may not be one of their favorite places. I have found, though, that we can create a holistic and comfortable environment, even in a vet clinic where many of the dog’s previous experiences were painful. All it takes is a soft rug to sit on instead of the cold metal tabletop, and perhaps some calming aromatherapy or flower essences added to the environment. Furthermore, animals who have experienced pain relief from past acupuncture or chiropractic treatments seem to be the most calm and accepting patients I have ever seen. One more point: animals definitely react to the way their caretakers are acting, and if the caretaker seems to be overly concerned, his dog will respond in kind. Remember that emotions, even emotions of the folks or animals that are nearby, can alter pain receptors and pain pathways to make the pain seem worse. The calmer the caretaker remains, the calmer – and more pain free – the dog. Aftereffects of pain Pain does not end with the pin prick; it is one of the primary stressors within the body. Pain interacts with and affects almost all body systems: musculoskeletal, immune, hormonal, and even the arrangement of the nerves themselves. Pain disrupts normal function. A primary example here is that any pain of the muscles, joints, or bones will affect the gait and comfortable posture of the affected individual. Gastrointestinal pain may alter intestinal motility and/or the pain may change the amount or kind of digestive enzymes being supplied to the gut. And a normally balanced hormonal output can be altered by pain. Any kind of pain, even minor pain, can be disruptive to normal sleep patterns. Loss of sleep, coupled with the anxiety of not knowing what is going on with one’s body often leads to depression. While I’m not sure we can say dogs suffer from true depression as we understand it, they can certainly have the appearance of a “depressed” animal when they are in pain. Chronic pain of any segment of the musculoskeletal system may lead to compensation. Out of necessity, wild animals are particularly adept at accepting pain, learning how to compensate for this pain, and moving on so they can perform the functions (however limited these functions become) that keep them alive. Four-legged animals thus quickly learn how walk and run on three legs to avoid putting pressure on the one sore leg. This compensatory gait is beneficial early on, but if it lasts long enough, the body begins to form a fibrous (and eventually bony) protective shield that spans over the sore joint. In addition, the animal’s patterns of posture and gait will be altered, and these alterations may occur far away from the original site of pain. As an example, a dog’s sore hind leg may cause it to bend his neck to create a balance that reduces the painful pressure on the sore leg. Animal chiropractors are well aware of how compensation often affects areas of the body that are far away from the initial site of the injury, and chiropractic adjustments are often necessary at the “faraway” site as well as at the site of the injury. Recognizing pain Symptoms that may indicate your dog is in pain include: • Behavioral changes. Licking and yawning are signs that a dog is nervous. Dogs who hurt do not want to be picked up, or even be touched, so they may lick their lips or yawn whenever you or anyone else tries to approach them. Dogs in pain are typically restless. If they can move without pain – for example, after a painful surgery – they will be up and down, up and down; they pace; they can’t sleep; and they can’t seem to get comfortable in any one position.

Some dogs will want to hide from any contact that might possibly hurt, and they may become aggressively grouchy to avoid that contact. Fear biting is common with dogs that hurt. Other animals may whine and want to be constantly held. All these behaviors are a result of the animal being out of control of its own body – a forerunner to becoming depressed, mentally and physically. • Abnormal gait or posture. Pain anywhere in the feet, joints, muscles, tendons, ligaments, or spinal column may cause the dog to have a noticeable limp. However, dogs are so adept at compensating for the pain (see above), it may be difficult to detect an abnormal gait pattern. Pain may also be detected by observing a stiffness or reluctance to move or rise from sleeping, or when climbing stairs or trying to jump onto the couch or bed. Pained animals may stand off center (trying to ease the pressure from the painful leg), carry their head or tail off center, or sit or lie down (or get up) only on one side of their body. Animals with hip or knee pain may “bunny hop” (a gait of the hind legs that looks like, well, like a bunny hopping), or they may “puppy sit” – a posture where they sit on their butts with hind legs extended to one side. • Vocalization. How an animal “talks” about his pain is perhaps the most variable of any of his symptoms. Some animals will not vocalize, no matter how much pain they are in. (These are the dogs we typically say have a high pain threshold. In reality, these “stoics” likely still feel the pain, but they have a high tolerance to that pain.) Other dogs tell you straight away they are in pain: whining, crying, moaning, groaning, yipping, growling, and/or howling. Again, the amount of verbal complaining you hear from the dog depends on the individual, not necessarily on the amount of pain he is experiencing. • Other pain symptoms. Animals who are experiencing abdominal pain are often reluctant to move. They may refuse to eat, and they may moan or bite at their abdomens or flanks. They may also vomit or have diarrhea. Chest pains cause shortness of breath and possibly an increased heart rate, both of which result in an inability to exercise. Some dogs don’t want to eat when they hurt. Increased heart and respiratory rates are fairly consistent symptoms of pain, but they may not be evident to the casual observer. There are two symptoms of pain (and relief from pain) that my clients have taught me over the years. One has to do with the dog’s eyes. A dog’s caretaker often notices that a dog in evident pain has “cloudy” eyes, or eyes that seem “empty,” as if there is nothing behind them. In my practice, I used chiropractic adjustments, acupuncture, herbs, and nutritional supplements, and after treatments, the caretakers would often report that their dogs’ eyes “brightened up,” that they were clearer, or seemed to have more “energy.” The other is a comment I’ve heard frequently after I had begun treatment on a canine patient: “I’ve got my dog back!” Interestingly, as a practitioner, I was not often able to see any noticeable difference in the patient; the dog might have almost the same amount of limp as when I began therapy. But, there was something about the dog that the owner recognized – something that told him that the dog was more “normal” than before. Conventional pain medicine Analgesics are medicines that are meant to relieve pain. There are three major categories of conventional medicines for pain control: local anesthetics, opioids, and non-opioids. This last category includes a large class of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), but also covers common but not fully understood drugs like acetaminophen and aspirin, which defy categorization. Local anesthetics provide pain relief by blocking pain stimuli from reaching the brain and spinal cord. They differ from the opioids and NSAIDs in that they abolish pain rather than diminish it. An example of a local anesthetic is lidocaine. The action of enkephalins and endorphins on pain receptors is the body’s intrinsic pain-suppressing system; it is the activity of these two hormones that makes the body feel good after jogging, sex, or an acupuncture treatment. Opioids (or opiates) bind to enkaphalin receptors along the pain pathways in the central nervous system, which effectively prevents the transmission of pain signals. Examples of opioids include morphine, codeine, methadone, Demerol, and Darvon. Most of the NSAIDs work by blocking the action of the pain-causing prostaglandins, and some of them achieve this by blocking the action of the prostaglandin-producing cyclooxygenase enzymes (Cox-1, 2, and 3). Examples of NSAIDs include ibuprofen and naproxen. Aspirin is considered by some to be an NSAID, but others disagree. While all these have been shown to be very effective, most of the time, there can be a tremendous variance among individuals. In fact, some of the analgesics may have an opposite effect on some individuals, actually causing more pain. In addition, each analgesic has a pretty potent list of adverse side effects. Not long ago, on an electronic bulletin board about veterinary complementary and alternative medicine, a number of veterinarians exchanged stories about their experiences with delayed healing for wounds or surgical incisions when the animal is given NSAIDs. In all cases, you will need to discuss with your veterinarian the potential risk/benefit ratio whenever you are choosing an analgesic for your dog. Natural pain relievers Fortunately, there are many alternative ways to approach pain control, and in my experience these are often not only less dangerous, they also can be more effective. As a general rule, alternative medicines take longer to act, and may not have the depth of activity that conventional medicines do. However, they are typically much safer to use, will not be addictive, and tend to have a much broader spectrum of activity – that is, they may help to relieve several kinds of pain, and they may also help alleviate some of the emotional components of pain as well as its physical aspects. Your holistic vet should be able to advise you on the best applications, dosages, and methods of use for the alternative forms of pain control. • Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM): Practitioners of TCM believe that pain is caused by a blockage of the flow of chi or “energy.” Thus when a joint hurts, for example, it is because the flow of chi is stuck there, causing pain. TCM uses acupuncture needles (and herbal remedies) to help re-create a normal flow of chi through areas of pain. In addition, acupuncture causes the release of enkephalins and endorphins, the body’s natural pain relievers. • Those who employ chiropractic believe that joints that are stuck – so that their normal range of motion has been altered – change the response of the pain receptors in the area, often causing pain. Also, a “stuck” spinal vertebrae that can’t move properly may also alter the pain messages being sent to the brain. Chiropractic adjustments are intended to restore the joint to its normal motion so that all nerve impulses are restored to normal. • I’ve had phenomenal results when using the combination of acupuncture and chiropractic for treating pain. The most dramatic results have come when treating musculoskeletal dysfunctions such as arthritis, but results when treating some deep or abdominal pains have also been very rewarding. • Homeopathy: One of the best of the natural pain medications, especially for bruises, sprains, or trauma to the eyes, is the homeopathic remedy Arnica. Hypericum, Bryonia, and Ruta are also excellent for many painful conditions. • There are several herbal remedies that have a long history of use for alleviating pain. Gastric pain may be eased with antispasmodics such as caraway, ginger, valerian, and wild yam. Willow bark contains the substance that is the active ingredient in aspirin. Herbal oats act as a nervine – a substance that balances the nervous system. Capsicum (red pepper) is an effective topical remedy for painful skin lesions, and it can be taken internally to help ease painful, arthritic joints. • Others: Supplements such as glucosamine, omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, B vitamins, inositol, and lipoic acid have proven beneficial for treating pain. It has been shown that glucosamine decreases the amount of NSAIDs needed to control pain in joint conditions, at least in humans, and it is likely that many of these supplements have similar beneficial properties. Don’t forget that there is almost always a mental or emotional component to pain, so calming herbs can be extremely helpful. Flower essence remedies are directed toward emotional distress. For example, the remedy Agrimony works well for the dog who appears to be distressed due to pain. And sometimes a calming aroma, such as lavender, wafted throughout dog’s resting places in the house, clears and calms the mind made nervous from pain. Conclusion There is evidence from medical research on humans that preventing pain is more productive than trying to stop it, that pain diminishes the body’s ability to heal, and that the recovery from any painful illness can be sped along with the addition of pain relievers. We have learned that beginning pain preventative therapy early, before the pain begins, is more effective than if we wait until the patient “tells” us he is in pain. We also know, because humans can talk to us and tell us, that any surgery and many chronic diseases are painful, including arthritis, diabetes, and certainly cancers. Some of these can be extremely painful. We know that severe pain can incite the inflammatory response and a stress reaction, which then induce the release of cortisol, diminish the immune response, induce tissue breakdown, and cause energy mobilization. Taken together, these and other responses to pain can actually shorten the patient’s lifespan as well as diminishing his remaining quality of life. And so, putting all this together, it just makes sense to begin pain control whenever there is the likelihood of pain (surgery, trauma, arthritis, cancers, etc.). We need to begin it early on and continue it as long as periodic reassessments indicate that pain may still be present. But in almost all cases, natural remedies are preferred – because they are non-addictive, likely to provide a broader spectrum of activity (reaching more pain mechanisms than conventional medicines, which are programmed to work at one site only), and there is no known rebound or tolerance effect (opiates, after prolonged use, may actually produce more pain rather than relieving it). Finally, and probably the most important, many of the natural remedies actually enhance healing, whereas conventional pain relievers typically retard the healing process. Examples here include acupuncture, which enhances the immune response; chiropractic, which returns joints to a more normal function, thus allowing the animal to move his joints and restore healing circulation and joint fluids; herbal remedies, which often contain healing antioxidants; and supplements (such as glucosamine), which help to regenerate joint cartilage. Having said all this, it is still important to use whatever pain reliever works. If you and your holistic vet feel that your dog needs a more potent analgesic, then by all means use it. Ongoing evaluation is most important, to help you determine which analgesic works best to relieve your dog’s pains. -Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

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WDJ Resources for Canine Health Problems

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I think if I was a dog with a health problem, I would want to live with Mary Straus. A gifted researcher and devoted dog owner, Straus has the ability to climb mountains of medical journals and emerge with the key points that can make a difference in the diagnosis, care, and treatment of a sick or compromised dog. I’m thrilled to have her writing for WDJ. Straus’ article “Involuntary Urination” is a wealth of information about helping dogs with urinary incontinence.

One point that Mary didn’t mention in her article – probably because it seemed too obvious to her – was that you should never punish or even admonish your previously housetrained dog if you suddenly start finding puddles of urine in odd places in the house.

They are probably as mystified and horrified by the discovery of their leakage as you are. Dogs who mark their territory by lifting their legs and urinating on significant items or prominent places in the house – that’s a different problem, one we covered in “Permanent Markers?” in the April 2003 issue. But if there are wet spots in places where your dog has slept – on the couch, on his bed, or on your bed – you need to make an appointment with your veterinarian right away to diagnose the cause of the incontinence and find the best treatment for your dog.

I would imagine that most of us have been to a dog park at some time. That probably also means that most of us have been struck by some of the rude and perhaps dangerous behavior manifested by some dogs – and people! – at some dog parks. These hazards are usually outweighed, however, by the benefits of a safely contained venue for off-leash play and exercise. In “Dog Park Etiquette,” Pat Miller offers some basic rules of etiquette that, if observed by a majority of park-goers, could vastly improve the enjoyment and safety of all puppy playground visitors.

Last month, CJ Puotinen offered a wealth of information about helping your dog quickly heal his wounds. Not covered in that article were hot spots and lick granulomas, which she remedies in this issue. See “Accelerated Wound Healing.”

Instead of fixing problems, this month, animal acupressure experts Nancy Zidonis and Amy Snow tell us how to try to prevent health problems from arising in our dogs in the first place. Give the “acupressure for health maintenance” session described in “TCM Doctors” a try, and see if your dog seems brighter and feels better.

Finally, holistic veterinarian Randy Kidd discusses canine pain: what causes it, and most importantly, what dog owners can do about it. See “Canine Pain Management” for a world of information.

Before I moved my home and home-office, I put out a call to all my past and current writers for extra submissions, to help me accumulate articles for the editorial “bank,” as a buffer against having too little time to write myself. Champions that these writers are, the articles are starting to pour in. I look forward to presenting our readers with their combined fun, wisdom, innovative solutions, and depth of experience. Until then, stay cool!

Involuntary Urination

By Mary Straus

When my dog Popcorn woke up one morning many years ago in a puddle of urine, I panicked, certain that only a deadly illness could cause this perfectly housetrained dog to wet her bed. I rushed her to the vet, where he did a thorough physical exam and urinalysis. I can still remember the relief I felt when my vet told me it appeared to be a simple case of incontinence.

As it turns out, incontinence, which is defined as involuntary urination, is quite common in dogs, especially spayed females, where about one in five dogs (20 percent) is affected.

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Estrogen responsive incontinence or hormonally responsive incontinence, commonly called spay incontinence, is the most frequent cause of involuntary urination in dogs. It can occur anywhere from immediately after spaying to 10 years later, with the average being around three years.

Low estrogen levels and other factors can lead to a weak bladder sphincter, resulting in anything from small urine drips to complete emptying of the bladder, usually while sleeping or resting. Leaking can happen daily or just periodically. Large breed dogs are more commonly affected than small breeds, and German Shepherds, Boxers, Spaniels, and Doberman Pinschers appear to be more at risk than other breeds.

A recent study showed that early spaying (before the first heat) reduced the chance of incontinence, from 18 percent to 9.7 percent in large breed dogs, but increased the severity when it occurred. It is possible that spaying midway between heat cycles may help prevent spay incontinence, but this is just speculation, as no studies have been done. Hormone-related incontinence can also affect neutered males, though much less commonly than females.

Incontinence can occur for many other reasons, including urinary tract infections, bladder stones, congenital structural defects (e.g., ectopic ureters), spinal cord disease, and excess water intake. Older dogs, overweight dogs, and dogs with neurological problems may develop a weak bladder sphincter. These causes of incontinence can affect dogs of both genders, whether intact or neutered.

When additional symptoms such as frequent urination, painful urination, trying to urinate without success, or blood in the urine are seen, then urinary tract infection (UTI) or stones (uroliths) are likely. Keep in mind that about 20 percent of UTIs will not show up on urinalysis alone, so it’s important to do a urine culture to rule out infection.

Neurological problems should be suspected when signs such as weakness in the rear, stumbling, or incoordination are present. Ectopic ureters are the most common cause of incontinence in young female dogs (under a year); they are uncommon in males.

Most causes of incontinence other than weak bladder sphincter can be identified from a urinalysis and urine culture, but sometimes it is necessary to see a specialist. Additional tests that can be done to find the cause of incontinence include X-rays or ultrasound to look for bladder stones or structural defects, dye contrast studies, and exploratory surgery.

In addition to being a problem for the owner who has to clean up after a leaky dog, incontinence can be very distressing to dogs who are housebroken, and can also lead to urinary tract infections, vaginitis, and sometimes skin ulcers caused by urine scald and licking.

Incontinence should be suspected as a contributing factor in dogs with recurrent bladder or vaginal infections. Incontinence aids such as doggie diapers and pads to protect furniture and dogs beds are available, but it’s very important to keep the dog clean and to get the incontinence under control, if at all possible. Baby wipes can be used to keep the skin clean, and will also soothe irritation, as does aloe vera gel. Use only those lotions that will not be a problem if a dog licks and ingests them.

Treatment
Treatment of incontinence is usually simple and effective. There are many different ways of treating incontinence, and the choice may depend on the cause. Phenylpropanolamine (PPA), a decongestant that helps to tighten the sphincter muscle, is the most commonly used treatment for incontinence in both male and female canines.

Spay incontinence can also be treated with estrogen supplements, usually in the form of DES (diethylstilbestrol), but estradiol, a more natural form of estrogen, can be used. Neutered males with hormonally caused incontinence may respond to monthly testosterone injections, though these can also lead to urine marking and an increase in aggressive behavior.

Ectopic ureters, where the tubes leading from the kidney do not properly connect to the bladder, require surgical correction. A new surgery using collagen injections is now available for incontinence that does not respond to any other form of treatment.

Natural treatments are frequently helpful for incontinence, once more serious conditions have been ruled out. Herbs, acupuncture, chiropractic treatment, and homeopathic remedies have each helped many dogs. Feeding a homemade diet can also make a difference.

Conventional treatment options
PPA (phenylpropanolamine) is the most commonly used veterinary treatment for incontinence in both male and female dogs. It is a decongestant that works by tightening the sphincter muscle from the bladder. PPA is effective in controlling incontinence in about 70 percent of dogs who try it, with improvement in most of the rest. A veterinary PPA product called Proin comes in chewable tablets made for dogs, and is also available in liquid form.

PPA must be given daily, usually two or three times a day, as its effect lasts only 8 to 12 hours. It can be used on an as-needed basis for dogs who have only occasional problems with incontinence. Most dogs tolerate PPA without any problems, but side effects can include irritability, nervousness, panting, restlessness, rapid heartbeat, and excitability. PPA should not be given to dogs with high blood pressure or heart disease. PPA has been removed from over-the-counter human products due to an increased risk of stroke, but this side effect is not a concern with dogs.

DES (diethylstilbestrol), a synthetic form of estrogen, can be used to treat spay incontinence. It is given daily for the first week, and then dosage is dropped to once or twice a week. It’s important when using this treatment to experiment and find the lowest possible dose that will work to control the incontinence, once it has been found to be effective. Estrogen supplements are considered relatively safe, but in rare cases they can cause bone marrow suppression leading to anemia that does not go away when the treatment is stopped. Higher doses and non-DES forms of estrogen are more likely to cause this effect. DES is readily available thru compounding pharmacies.

PPA can be combined with DES when needed to control difficult cases. Imipramine (Tofranil), a tricyclic anti-depressant that causes urine retention in some patients, is occasionally combined with PPA for dogs who do not respond to other medications.

A natural estrogen supplement called Genesis Resources Canine Incontinence Support is available for treating spay incontinence, as are ovarian glandular products. I have heard reports of each of these working for some dogs.

Herbal treatment options
There are several natural treatment options for incontinence, including a number of different herbs. Corn silk is the herb most commonly used to treat incontinence. It can be given in capsules, brewed into tea, or made into a tincture.

Beth Teffner of Ohio has a four-year-old Doberman, Inga, who was rescued from a puppy mill. Inga has spay incontinence, which Teffner has treated successfully with corn silk. “We first tried giving her Proin, but it made her cranky,” says Teffner. “Inga now gets three capsules of corn silk (425 mg) a day, two in the morning and one in the evening, opened and sprinkled over her food. She leaks only when extremely tired. She is dry 90 to 95 percent of the time.”

Teas made from corn silk (and other herbs) may be more effective than capsules. To make an herbal tea, add 1 tablespoon of fresh or dried herb per 2 cups of boiling water. Give 1 teaspoon of strong tea per 20 pounds of body weight, twice a day. Other herbs that can help with incontinence include raspberry leaf, horsetail, saw palmetto, nettle root, couch grass, uva ursi, agrimony, marshmallow, and plantain.

Glycerin tinctures (also known as glycerites) containing these herbs in any combination are another alternative. Give 12 to 20 drops of glycerite per 20 pounds of body weight, twice a day.

There are also commercial herbal blends made for dogs with incontinence. Products that have worked for some include Azmira’s Kidni Kare, Animals’ Apawthecary’s Tinkle Tonic, and Vetri-Science Bladder Strength for Dogs.

Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) also offers herbal combinations for controlling incontinence. Chinese herbs helped Ben, a 13-year-old Border Collie owned by Laura Miller of Lovetteville, Virginia, after the dog started leaking urine about six months ago. The leaking began with a urinary tract infection, but continued after the infection was gone.

“While Proin controlled the problem, it seemed to make him grouchy to the point where the other dogs in the house were avoiding him,” says Miller. “With the help of a veterinarian who practices both conventional and holistic medicine, we were able to switch him to a Chinese herbal combination that has been as effective as the Proin, without the grumpiness.”

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The formula her vet prescribed is called Sang Piao Xiao San – Mantis Formula 524, from Sun Ten. (Note: Chinese herbal formulas are typically custom-prescribed for the unique needs of the patient, rather than indicated for specific sumptoms. Your veterinary TCM practitioner may prescribe a different Chinese herbal forumula for the same condition in your dog.)

Diet can make a difference
Some dogs stop being incontinent when all grains are removed from their diet. Maizey, a 12-year-old Bull Terrier owned by Shari Mann of San Francisco, is one of those dogs. “Soon after she was spayed, Maizey started dribbling, especially at night or when taking a long nap,” Mann says.

“Maizey has eaten a raw, grain-free diet since 12 weeks of age. The only grains she ever got were in my home-baked cookies made from liver and organic wheat. I stopped giving her the cookies, in an effort to help with a yeasty ear problem. To my utter surprise and delight, not only did her ears clear up, but her dribbles also stopped. I did not believe it. Just to be sure, I again gave her one cookie a day for two weeks, and she began dribbling again.” Maizey has been off all grains, and free of incontinence, for 10 years.

Judi Rothenberg’s Doberman Lucy is another dog who responded to the elimination of grains from her diet. Although DES was effective in controlling Lucy’s spay incontinence, Judi preferred something natural. “I give Lucy corn silk (¼ teaspoon twice a day), but removing grains from her diet helped the most. As long as I remember not to give her treats with grains in them, Lucy no longer needs the DES.”

Sometimes, just a homemade diet can help, even if it includes grains. Judy Coates of Pennsylvania had two male beagles, Guillaume and Darwin, who were neutered in April 2003, when Guillaume was 10 and Darwin was 9 years old.

“At the time of neutering they were eating a high quality dry food,” Judy says. “After a few months they started leaking while they were relaxed or sleeping. I increased the amount of fresh food I added to their kibble, and eventually began feeding all home-cooked meals at the beginning of 2005. As soon as they started to get fresh food, their water intake dropped and the leaking went away. Even now, with Guillaume testing positive for Cushing’s and drinking more water than he did, he still has no problem with leaking.”

When preparing homemade diets, keep in mind that certain vegetables, such as parsley and celery, have diuretic properties and may increase leaking.

Other natural treatments
Incontinence may respond to alternative treatments such as chiropractic adjustments and acupuncture. Acupuncture may be particularly effective if done on the spay incision.

Maggie is a 10-year-old Vizsla owned by Maisie Griffiths in Canberra, Australia, and fed a raw, grain-free diet. “Maggie began to have some episodes of incontinence about a year ago, just dribbles that only occurred in her sleep,” says Griffiths.

“The leaking increased at the same time that she began to show more obvious signs of the effects of her spondylosis. My vet is also a chiropractor; we began to give Maggie chiropractic treatments. The urine dribbles turned into floods for a few days following each treatment and then returned to dribbles. We continued the treatments as her movement was improving. Gradually, the incontinence following each treatment completely disappeared, along with the original dribbles.” Griffiths reports that Maggie now moves better than she did two years ago and has no incontinence at all.

Homeopathic remedies, both individual and combinations, have helped many dogs. Jo Wells of Euless, Texas, has a 10-year-old Rottweiler mix also named Maggie who was diagnosed with spay incontinence about a year ago.

Wells says, “We tried corn silk capsules with no success. The homeopathic formula Leaks No More from Homeopet worked for us, but I quit using it because of the expense. It comes in such a small bottle and using it three times a day it only lasted about 10 days for a large dog. I switched to Herbasaurs Bedwetting homeopathic formula made for children. It has worked for us and a bottle lasts me for three to four weeks. I just put it in her food and she scarfs it right down.”

Other homeopathic remedies recommended for dogs with incontinence are Sepia, Solidago (goldenrod), and Hyland’s EnurAid.

A combination of treatments
For some dogs, the treatment isn’t so simple. Mindy Fenton of Southern California adopted a two-year-old Chow also named Maggie who leaked urine continuously. Maggie was diagnosed with an ectopic ureter using a dye test. Fenton explains, “The ureter was attached to the kidney but at the distal end it emptied right out instead of going into the bladder. The vets said it was probably genetic. Maggie could hold no urine; her bladder never filled. She would squat and try to pee but she also constantly leaked.”

Maggie required surgery to correct this defect. The surgery was successful and allowed Maggie to urinate normally, but she continued to have problems with dribbling during any kind of stress. “The specialist had told me at the time of surgery that it is common for dogs with an ectopic ureter to not be fully continent post-surgery. Within a couple of months after surgery, Mags was greatly improved but she would still leak from time to time, and the leaking made her susceptible to bladder infections.”

Fenton tried DES, which didn’t help at all, but she had success using Proin. She preferred more natural methods, however. “I used a number of supplements, including vitamin C, cranberry capsules (which help prevent bladder infections), and Animals’ Apawthecary’s Tinkle Tonic. I would make my own tincture using corn silk in an alcohol (brandy) base and I added uva ursi. I tried adding corn silk directly to her food, but that did nothing. Switching to a raw, grain-free diet helped quite a bit. Mags was nine years old when I made the switch.”

This approach worked most of the time, but under stress, the dribbles would return. “When she would drip, I would give her PPA, twice a day, which I usually had to do only for about three days at a time. I also used PPA as a preventative when I knew there was going to be stress and thus a high likelihood that she would drip.”

Incontinence secondary to other diseases
Sometimes incontinence is secondary to other disorders, so treatment is directed at the primary disease. Any illness that causes the dog to drink excess amounts of water, including diabetes mellitus, kidney disease, liver disease, Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism), and more, can lead to incontinence. Most of these can be ruled out by blood tests. Certain drugs can also cause increased water intake.

Kathy Moffett of Le Roy, Illinois, has a Brittany Spaniel named Abby who began having major incontinence issues associated with drinking lots of water at age 11. “Abby turned out to have a rare condition called diabetes insipidus,” Moffett explains. “The only symptoms of this condition are drinking lots of water and increased urination, including problems with incontinence.”

The treatment for DI involves injections twice a day with desmopressin, which controls the excess drinking and also the incontinence. (Note that there is no relationship between diabetes insipidus and the more common diabetes mellitus. See “Yo Adrenals!” July 2006.)

My own dog Nattie developed some incontinence when she was diagnosed with kidney disease and put on subcutaneous fluids. I did not give her medication for this, but solved the problem by getting up during the night to let her out one extra time, and by using washable waterproof pads under her bedding to protect the beds and furniture.

I found the mattress pads and liners made for children’s beds to be the most cost-effective and reliable way to keep dog beds and other places she liked to sleep dry. You can also find waterproof liners and pads made for dogs and dog beds in pet supply stores and catalogs. Diaper garments made for both female and male dogs can also be purchased.

Incontinence has also been known to develop following corticosteroid treatment. Steroids such as prednisone cause excess drinking, which may lead to temporary incontinence, but sometimes, the incontinence continues even after the steroids are stopped.

Steroids also suppress the immune system, which can lead to increased risk of urinary tract infections. In addition, steroids can push a dog with a tendency toward diabetes into exhibiting symptoms. It makes sense to have a urinalysis done if your dog develops incontinence following the use of prednisone.

Dawn Lange of Duluth, Minnesota, has a retired racing Greyhound named Sly who experienced problems following the use of prednisone.

“Sly’s incontinence started at about eight years old, almost immediately after receiving multiple steroid injections for pannus.” says Lange. “It took about six months before the incontinence gradually stopped. None of the treatments that are used for spay incontinence worked. We chose to diaper her during the problem period, using Female Pet Bloomers from Drs. Foster & Smith, with a maxipad inside.”

Surgical options
Once in a while, you may have a dog who does not respond to any of the traditional or natural treatments for incontinence, or who cannot take them for various reasons. In those cases, surgery may help.

One older procedure for female dogs, colposuspension, surgically tacks the vagina to the belly wall, compressing the urethra.

Colposuspension surgery has been shown to be effective in curing incontinence in 40 to 55 percent of dogs initially, though many relapse within the first year. Most dogs show improvement, which is often increased when medications are added back in. Male dogs can have a similar procedure called a cystourethropexy.

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Collagen injections (performed under anesthesia) into the area around the urethra offer a newer and more effective surgical method for controlling incontinence in female dogs. Studies show these injections to be completely successful in up to 75 percent of the dogs who receive them, with most of the rest improved and many of those responding to the use of PPA after surgery when they did not before.

The major drawback to this approach is cost, which can run more than $1,000 – and the treatment may have to be repeated, as the body removes the collagen over time. Retreatment with collagen is usually easier and may be less expensive. The average duration of effectiveness was 17 months in one study, though the effects can last more than five years. It has few side effects, usually only transient problems with urination immediately after surgery in a small percentage of dogs. There is a current study of this procedure being done at Purdue University.

Beth Teffner is involved with Hand Me Down Dobes, a rescue group in Columbus, Ohio, that recently took in a two-year-old Doberman named Reese. Surrendered by her original owner due to incontinence, Reese would leak urine while standing and walking around, even immediately after urinating. Exploratory surgery did not find a cause.

The group contacted Ohio State, where the collagen injection procedure is being studied on Dobermans. “Fortunately, our group had an angel who donated money, and Reese has had the injections. She did not need additional surgery and is leak-free,” Teffner says. “She is now in a foster home waiting to be adopted.” (If you can help, contact Hand Me Down Dobes at 614-470-2851 or www.handmedowndobes.org.)

Experimental treatment
A recent report from Europe involves the use of use of GnRH (gonadotropin releasing hormone) analogs to control spay incontinence that does not respond to traditional treatments.

In one small pilot study, seven of 11 dogs treated this way once or twice were cured for periods ranging from two months to two years, with all but one of the remaining dogs becoming continent when PPA was added. This treatment is still experimental and has not yet been approved, though GnRH is used with dogs for other purposes involving reproduction.

Be persistent
With the many different treatments available for incontinence, it’s important to keep trying various remedies when needed. Many people try a number of different remedies before finding the one that works best for their dogs. Don’t give up when your dog does not respond to the first or second remedy you try.

When natural treatments and traditional medications do not work, look for other possible causes, and if needed, consider surgical options. Almost all dogs with incontinence can be successfully treated with persistence.

 

-Mary Straus does research on canine health and nutrition topics as an avocation. She is the owner of the DogAware.com website. She lives in the San Francisco Bay Area with her dog Piglet, a 14-year-old Chinese Shar-Pei.

Dog Park Etiquette

[Updated January 16, 2018]

Depending on who you talk to, dog parks are either the greatest invention since microwave ovens or the devil incarnate – either the perfect place to exercise and socialize your dog, or the best environment in which to traumatize your dog, make him dog-reactive, and perhaps get him killed. We’re told that perception is reality, but these two perceptions are worlds apart. Which one is right?

They both are. Your local dog park can be a terrific place to take your dog, provided it is well-constructed, well-maintained, and well-monitored. It can also be you and your dog’s worst nightmare. What determines which perception will be your reality?

In a word, it’s all about etiquette. If you understand the rules of dog park etiquette – and if other park users also understand and follow the same rules, you can be in dog park heaven. When etiquette goes by the wayside, you have a classic recipe for disaster.

dog park

Create a Dog Park Culture

It only takes one renegade to spoil a park for other users. The best dog parks are those whose users band together to create a sense of community, who use education, peer pressure and, when necessary, call in the appropriate authorities to help regulate those who won’t follow the rules of etiquette and common sense.

One of the early dog parks, Remington Dog Park, created in Sausalito, California, in the early 1990s, initially held informal wine-and-cheese parties every Friday evening, to encourage camaraderie, a sense of community, and to create a social opportunity for humans as well as their dogs. The group developed a strong culture and close friendships. Park regulars were thus able to work together to monitor dog park behavior, educate new users, and keep park problems to a manageable minimum.

Most of the early dog parks were public/municipal parks – owned and operated by local government, with park upkeep and management sometimes delegated to a users’ group, sometimes performed by the parks and recreation department, sometimes the animal services (control) division, sometimes even the local police department.

More and more communities across the country are developing new municipal “bark parks” as dog owners lobby for recreational facilities for humans and their dogs and insist on claiming their share of local park resources.

In addition, there are a growing number of privately owned dog parks where owners pay a membership fee for the privilege of sharing dog park play in a more controlled environment. Private parks are often more closely supervised, dogs are more carefully screened before being granted privileges, and rules more promptly and effectively enforced.

Whether private or public, rules of dog park etiquette generally fall into three categories: Appropriate dog behavior, appropriate human behavior, and rules of engagement – what to do when someone doesn’t follow the rules.

Common Dog Park Rules

Park rules will vary from one location to the next. Rules should be posted prominently near park entrances; if they’re not, ask about them prior to bringing your dog to the park. Listed below are many of the dog park rules you are likely to find. For more rule suggestions, see the 2018 version of this list.

1. Dogs over the age of 6 months must be spayed/neutered – or, alternatively, no females in season allowed.

2. All dogs must be currently licensed. • No unsupervised dogs. Dogs may not be left unattended.

3. Owners must clean up after dogs. (So, owners must really watch their dogs, to be able to clean up after them!)

4. Aggressive dogs are not allowed. Do not bring dogs with a history of aggression toward dogs or humans. Dogs who demonstrate aggressive behaviors toward dogs or humans in the park should be removed from the park and not return.

5. Children under the age 8 (or some other designated age) should not enter the off-leash area of the park. Alternatively, children under the age of (designated age) must be directly supervised at all times in the park. No running or loud or rough play allowed.

6. No more than three dogs per person (or other designated number).

7. No choke, prong, or shock collars. All extra gear (harnesses, collars other than plain buckle collar) should be removed before entering park.

8. Keep dogs on-leash until you enter off-leash area. If a separate area is provided for small dogs, please honor the size restrictions.

9. No smoking or eating within the fenced dog park area.

10. Be polite and considerate of other park users.

What is Appropriate Dog Park Behavior?

Not all dogs are good candidates for dog-park play. A dog park is not the appropriate place for dogs who have serious behavior problems in relation to other dogs or humans. Dogs with these kinds of “issues” should be carefully socialized in environments that are far more controlled than a dog park while their owners do behavior modification work. Consider the following carefully before taking your dog through the gate into your local dog park.

• Dog-park dogs should be friendly and outgoing, without being overbearing, obnoxious, or bullying.

• Your dog should be reasonably confident and social. Those who are fearful, aggressive, or reactive are not appropriate for dog parks.

• Basic good manners are a park prerequisite. Your dog should not body-slam, mouth, jump on kids, or mark (leg-lift) humans in the park, nor should he jump into laps of random sitting humans without invitation.

• Your dog should be responsive to basic cues – at least “come when called,” “sit,” and “leave it/off,” so you can get control of him if necessary, and prevent him from harassing others.

• Barking should be kept to a reasonable level, both for the comfort of other park users as well as nearby neighbors. Occasional barks of joy are acceptable. Non-stop barking of a “fun police” type dog is not, nor is barking with more serious aggressive intent.

• Only healthy dogs should visit dog parks. Obviously, communicable diseases and parasites are unacceptable as these can affect and infect other dogs. Structural un-soundnesses that can cause pain (hip dysplasia, arthritis, etc.) are a high risk factor for causing aggression when a dog is hurt or stressed by the anticipation of being hurt.

Human Behavior at Dog Parks

This is even longer than the dog behavior list. We humans are responsible for our dogs’ behaviors, hence we play a critically important role in making sure proper etiquette is adhered to, by our dogs as well as ourselves.

• As a new park user, visit the park without your dog to observe park culture and practices. Arrange to take your dog to the park the first time at non-peak use hours to allow both of you to acquaint yourselves with the environment without the stress and distraction of multiple dogs.

dog park

• Obey all posted park rules, even if you disagree with them.

• Don’t bring small children inside the dog park. Occasionally, dogs who are running fast in a chasing game will accidentally run into a grown-up, sometimes even knocking down a full-sized man. Imagine what could happen to your toddler – and that’s just from an accident, not even from the attention of a large dog with a strong prey drive who has never been socialized to small children!

• Limit your use of toys or food treats as necessary to avoid dog/dog conflict. This may vary depending on the dog population at the park during any given visit.

• Keep puppies under the age of four months at home. They aren’t fully immunized yet, so are at higher risk for contracting diseases, and are very vulnerable to being traumatized by another dog’s inappropriate behavior.

• Be harshly realistic about your dog’s potential as a park playmate. The dog park is not the appropriate place to work on fixing your dog’s behavior problems.

• Watch park play for several minutes before you take your dog in to be sure there are no dogs present who are inappropriate play partners for your dog.

• Remove your dog’s leash as soon as you enter the off-leash area. Mixing on-leash and off-leash dogs can cause stress in the leashed dogs, which may lead to aggression.

• Supervise your dog’s play. This is not the time to bury your nose in the latest copy of WDJ or your favorite novel. Be prepared to interrupt inappropriate play – whether your dog is the perpetrator or the victim.

• If someone complains about your dog’s behavior, be prepared to consider his perspective before defending your dog or just blowing off the complaint. Apologize if your dog has been inappropriate, and be willing to leave the park if your dog is being too rough. If you really disagree with the person’s assessment of your dog’s behavior, ask someone you respect for her honest and frank opinion.

• Be polite, even if someone else’s dog is inappropriate and the owner isn’t controlling her dog or is unwilling to take her own dog out of the park.

• Keep the dog-human ratio manageable. A standard recommendation is no more than two or three dogs per human – assuming those two to three dogs can be reasonably managed by one human!

• Remember: not all dogs enjoy playing with others. Be willing to leave if your dog isn’t having a good time. Some dogs enjoy a small circle of intimate friends but aren’t keen on crowds. Some enjoy park play as youngsters, but less so as they mature. If you love going to the park but your dog doesn’t, go without him! Go with a friend who has a more gregarious canine, or go dogless and socialize with other owners.

• Avoid disciplining another park user’s dog. If you must use force to break up a fight, so be it, but do not attempt to “punish” someone else’s dog once the conflict is ended. If you find another dog’s behavior unacceptable, take your own dog out of the park rather than “correcting” someone else’s dog.

• Honor the posted dog-park hours. They are set for a reason – often for your own safety, or to maintain peace and harmony with nearby neighbors.

• Of course, as always, clean up after your dog religiously both inside and outside the park. Be willing to clean up unclaimed piles of dog poo from visitors who don’t know or don’t follow the rules of dog-park etiquette, or perhaps who just didn’t notice their dog leaving a fecal souvenir.

Rules of Dog Park Engagement

As Patrick Swayze says in the movie, “Road House”, “Be nice – until it’s time to not be nice.” If a human or his dog is behaving inappropriately, assume they don’t know any better, and do your best to educate gently and politely.

If you’re uncomfortable doing so, seek out the help of another park user for support. Don’t wimp out! As a responsible dog-park user, you have an obligation to report inappropriate actions of other users that put the safety of dogs and humans at risk. How would you feel if you turned a blind eye to a potentially dangerous behavior, only to have another person or dog injured – perhaps seriously or fatally – if an incident happens in the future that you might have been able to prevent?

Examples of positive phrases for confronting an owner at the dog park might include:

• “Excuse me, but perhaps you didn’t realize that this side of the park is for dogs under 25 pounds…Your Lab is really handsome; I bet he’d love to play with the Golden Retriever on the other side of that fence.”

• “Hey, that sandwich looks tasty – and there’s a St. Bernard headed this way who’s eyeing it with great interest. It might be safer if you finished eating it outside the fence and then brought your dog back in to play.”

• “What a cute baby! If she were mine I’d be worried about having her in the park here with all these energetic dogs. I’ve read some pretty scary stories about dogs grabbing babies out of adults’ arms – I’d hate to see your little girl get hurt! And actually the park rules say kids should be 8 years or older to be in here…”

dog park

If the inappropriate actions are putting you or your dog at risk and the other dog owner isn’t receptive to education, take your dog and leave the park until you can ask the users’ group or other park authorities to handle the situation.

If you don’t know and can’t get the dog owner’s name and contact information, try to get his license plate number. If that’s not possible, write down a detailed description of both dog and human, and note any times you’ve seen them at the park, to help authorities make contact. Also write a detailed and unemotional description of the behavior(s) you felt were inappropriate.

The positive approach generally works better with humans, just as it does with dogs. A dog owner on one of my training lists recently posted a message about her dog who occasionally became aggressive with other dogs at her local dog park. Other list members gently explained to her why the dog park was not the appropriate place to work on modifying her dog’s reactive behavior, and offered other options for doing behavior modification work with him. I’m pretty sure from her responses that she understood. At least I hope she did, for her dog’s sake, and the sake of other dog-park users in her community.

DOG PARKS: OVERVIEW

1. Evaluate your dog realistically to determine whether she is a good dog-park candidate. If you’re not sure, ask your dog behavior professional for her perception of your dog’s park potential.

2. Check out the dog parks in your area to determine if any appear to be suitable for your dog.

3. The first time you take your dog to a dog park, ask a friend who is knowledgeable about dogs and dog behavior to accompany you and help troubleshoot.

4. Have fun with dog-park play!

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor.

Probiotics Boost Canine Overall Health

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[Updated August 22, 2018]

FEEDING PROBIOTICS TO DOGS

1. Give probiotics to any dog under chronic or acute stress, or who receives antibiotics.

2. For dogs with allergies or digestive problems, use a variety of probiotics with several strains of benefical bacteria.

3. When buying food sources of probiotics, look for the freshest products possible. The live cultures in products such as yogurt and kefir lose potency as they sit on shelves.


Who hasn’t heard of “friendly” or “beneficial” bacteria? Even acidophilus, once a confusing tongue-twister, has become as familiar as yogurt, in which it’s the active ingredient.

One reason beneficial bacteria have worked their way into the public’s consciousness is the excellent press they have received for helping repair damage done by antibiotics. Broad-spectrum antibiotics target not one but all strains of bacteria, leaving us thoroughly disinfected.

But no antibiotic kills 100 percent of the body’s bacteria. A few always survive, some harmful and some essential to good health. Often the harmful organisms thrive and reproduce, overwhelming the beneficial strains that normally keep them in check, resulting in a host of new health problems. According to the Royal Society of Medicine of Great Britain, fully 90 percent of chronic diseases are caused by an unhealthy intestinal system.

probiotics for dogs

This helps explain why antibiotic drugs have long-term as well as short-term side effects. Their long-term side effects include impaired digestion, gastrointestinal discomfort, diarrhea, chronic or systemic yeast or fungal infections, lowered immunity, and the creation of drug-resistant or “super germ” bacteria that worry public health officials around the world.

Bacterial Homeostasis: the Body’s Balancing Act

Homeostasis is a Greek word meaning stable and balanced. When the body’s systems are in homeostasis, they maintain a stable body temperature, a constant blood pH, balanced blood sugar, normal blood pressure, and a healthy population of microorganisms. For the last to occur, the body needs more beneficial than harmful bacteria. In fact, most experts estimate that for optimum health, the body should contain 80 percent beneficial bacteria and no more than 20 percent harmful bacteria.

Even those who haven’t taken antibiotics may lack beneficial bacteria because of poor diet, stress, illness, prescription drugs, travel, or environmental factors. Anything that interferes with the growth and reproduction of beneficial bacteria interferes with good heath.

Just as our dogs share many human health problems, they are adversely affected by the antibiotics they routinely receive from veterinarians as well as by environmental toxins and diet. Many pet foods contain ingredients that nourish harmful bacteria, such as sugars and starches, along with ingredients that damage good bacteria, such as chemical preservatives.

In both species, healthy intestinal bacteria typically consist of dozens or hundreds of different species. These bacteria produce enzymes; improve digestion; lower the risk of colitis, irritable bowel syndrome, and similar disorders; prevent diarrhea; synthesize vitamins; detoxify the body; and protect against toxins. In dogs, conditions that coincide with bacterial imbalances include digestive disorders, flatulence, constipation, diarrhea, urinary tract infections, allergies, diabetes, arthritis, vitamin B deficiencies, chronic ear infections, skin and coat problems, susceptibility to bacterial or viral infections, bad breath, poor immune response, and, in some cases, confusion or behavioral problems.

Keeping Bad Bacteria in Check

Healthy intestinal bacteria inhibit the growth of pathogens such as viruses, fungi, parasites, and harmful bacteria.

Escherichia coli, or E. coli, is usually a harmless inhabitant of human and animal intestines, but the strain E. coli O157:H7 produces a powerful toxin that can cause severe illness. It was first identified during a 1982 outbreak of bloody diarrhea that was traced to contaminated hamburger.

Investigative journalist Jo Robinson has documented many benefits of feeding cattle on grass instead of in commercial feedlots. Among other things, a natural grass diet provides ideal conditions for the growth of beneficial bacteria in the gut of the cattle. Recent research at Cornell University shows that grass-fed cattle have less than 1 percent of the E. coli bacteria found in feedlot cattle, while other studies show that grass-fed chickens carry significantly lower amounts of E. coli than chickens raised indoors on factory farms.

Robinson explains that because a grain diet increases the acidity of bovine digestive tracts, the E. coli that grows in feedlot cattle is less affected by hydrochloric acid in the human stomach, which would otherwise destroy it. Beneficial bacteria in the digestive tracts of dogs and people help prevent acid-resistant E. coli from proliferating when they eat beef from feedlot cattle.

The Salmonella family includes more than 2,300 types of one-celled organisms, two of which, Salmonella enteritidis and Salmonella typhimurium, are the most common. Salmonella can contaminate meat, poultry, dairy products, eggs, seafood, and some fruits and vegetables, but it is especially associated with chickens and eggs from factory farms. Beneficial bacteria help keep Salmonella bacteria in check.

Clostridium difficile is a rod-shaped bacteria that produces two toxins that interact to cause a serious, potentially fatal disease that produces diarrhea, abdominal cramping, inflammation of the colon, and meningitis-like symptoms. In June 2006, the Centers for Disease Control alarmed therapy dog organizations by publishing a report from researchers at the University of Guelph in Ontario, Canada, in which a therapy dog was shown to carry a human epidemic strain of C. difficile.

The study’s lead author, Sandra L. Lefebvre, explained, “One particular strain of C. difficile has been implicated in outbreaks of Clostridium difficile-associated disease (CDAD) in hospitals in North America and Europe and appears to be spreading internationally at an alarming rate. We report this toxin-variant strain of C. difficile in a healthy four-year-old Toy Poodle that visits persons in hospitals and long-term care facilities in Ontario weekly. C. difficile was isolated from a fecal sample collected in the summer of 2004 as part of a cross-sectional study evaluating pathogen carriage by visitation dogs . . . CDAD cases were occurring at increased frequency in the facility around the time the dog’s fecal specimen was collected.”

While this is the first documented case of the human epidemic strain of C. difficile in a dog, the study does not prove that interspecies transmission of C. difficile oc-curs. “However,” it states, “that possibility exists, as is becoming apparent with other pathogens, such as methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus. The recurrent exposure of this dog to human healthcare settings suggests that the animal acquired this strain during visits to the hospital or long-term care facility, either from the healthcare environment or contaminated hands of human contacts. We recommend that future studies evaluating the dis-semination of this strain and investigations of the movement of C. difficile into the community consider the role of animals.”

According to Pennsylvania State University College of Medicine professor Kelly Dowhower Karpa, PhD, in her book Bacteria for Breakfast: Probiotics for Good Health, numerous studies show that the beneficial bacteria Saccharomyces boulardii has cleared C. difficile in an encouraging number of cases.

In other studies, Dr. Karpa writes, one strain of Lactobacillus given at high doses (10 billion live bacteria daily) for as little as 7 to 10 days following conventional antibiotic therapy has cured patients experiencing relapsing C. difficile diarrhea.

Because beneficial bacteria are the body’s first line of defense against pathogens, maintaining a large and vigorous population of these friendly microbes can help prevent all types of infection as well as their transmission from people to animals and vice versa.

Good Bacteria to the Rescue

Thanks to the growing popularity of beneficial bacteria, it isn’t difficult to increase their population for improved health and immunity.

Several strains are grown in laboratories for use in supplements, including the familiar Lactobacillus acidophilus. Other popular bacteria include L. bulgaricus, L. rhamnosus, L. casei, L. plantarum, Streptococcus faecium, S. thermophilus, and Bifidobacterium bifidum, formerly known as L. bifidus. L. acidophilus, which resides mostly in the small intestine, is the strain most associated with animals, while B. bifidum, which resides mostly in the large intestine and colon, is most associated with humans.

Many yogurt producers have recently changed their formulas in response to consumer demand for probiotics. Stonyfield Farm, a leading maker of yogurt and organic dairy products on the East Coast, now adds six live cultures to every product: L. bulgaricus, S. thermophilus, L. acidophilus, bifidus, L. casei, and L. reuteri. As the company’s website explains, “Probiotics protect us from pathogens such as Salmonella and others by preventing their attachment to the intestinal lining. They interfere by blanketing all available surfaces, thus limiting the growth of microscopic invaders like Giardia, Candida yeast, and bacteria such as E. coli.

“Studies have shown that probiotic cultures benefit health in several ways – by suppressing pathogenic bacteria, helping control antibiotic-associated diarrhea, helping prevent traveler’s diarrhea and leaky gut syndrome, improving lactose tolerance, producing some vitamins and enzymes, decreasing toxins and mutagenic reactions, improving carbohydrate and protein usage, strengthening innate immunity, creating a barrier effect in the intestinal tract, and reducing infant food allergies and eczema.”

Beneficial bacteria have an ancient history, for people have been using them to culture and preserve foods for millennia. They are ingredients in traditionally fermented foods like sourdough bread, yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, tempeh, miso, and amazake.

Probiotics for Your Dog

The word probiotic literally means “for life,” as opposed to antibiotic, which means “against life.” Probiotics are strains of beneficial bacteria sold as supplements for human or pet use. All health food stores and many pet supply stores carry several brands of L. acidophilus and other strains that can help improve your dog’s digestion and immune function.

Probiotic supplements are especially beneficial for newborn puppies, to increase the number of desirable organisms in their digestive tract. They are also well-suited to help dogs of all ages cope with stress – travel, intensive training, competition, and boarding. It’s smart to use them to boost the immune system following surgery, parvovirus infections (which affect the small intestine), chronic diarrhea, and whelping. They should also be a standard prescription during and after the use of any antibiotic.

probiotics for dogs

Buying a probiotic supplement and following label directions is the simplest way to introduce a new supply of live beneficial bacteria to your dog’s digestive tract. Some brands require refrigeration; others have a long shelf life at room temperature. The supplement may be sold as a powder, liquid, or in tablets or capsules, some of which are enteric-coated to survive stomach acid and break apart in the small intestine. Depending on the brand, label instructions may recommend feeding the product on an empty stomach between meals, with food, or immediately before or after eating.

Some products contain a single strain of beneficial bacteria, such as L. acidophilus, while others contain multiple strains. Experts disagree as to which approach is better. Single-strain products tend to be backed by more clinical research, but some advocates favor multiple strains because that’s what the body contains.

The newest probiotics on the market are not bacteria; they are homeostatic soil organisms, or HSOs, which literally come from dirt. Soil contains so many different microorganisms that science has defined less than 1 percent of the estimated total. One gram of soil (about a teaspoon) can contain as many as 10,000 microbe species.

Until recently, dogs, cats, and people all over the world ingested a constant supply of HSOs. That no longer happens in the U.S., where indoor lifestyles and cleanliness keep HSOs out of our mouths and food supply. Now medical researchers are linking asthma, allergies, and other common health problems to a lack of exposure to everyday dirt, germs, and HSOs, especially during early childhood. Some vets make the same connection to puppies and kittens.

The manufacturers of HSO supplements grow organisms discovered in pristine parts of the world where the number of beneficial microbes in soil is unusually high. These microbes are chosen for their ability to destroy molds, yeasts, fungi, viruses, and harmful bacteria, and are usually combined with several strains of beneficial bacteria.

Time to Heal

How long does it take to repair the body with probiotics if your dog has taken antibiotics? Estimates from researchers and veterinarians range from several weeks or months to a year or several years.

The fastest recoveries are experienced by dogs who have a good supply of surviving native bacteria – that is, beneficial bacteria that they obtained from their mothers’ milk or from supplements within hours of birth – which are supported by a diet that feeds them instead of one that feeds their harmful competitors.

Another way to recover quickly is to be a good host for the beneficial bacteria introduced in supplements, so that the dog’s system provides what these bacteria need in order to reproduce and colonize.

Not all beneficial bacteria colonize or continue to multiply after the patient stops receiving probiotic supplements, but some will if given the right growing conditions, and even beneficial bacteria that don’t colonize can improve the digestive tract for as long as they are taken.

Feeding Beneficial Bacteria

Probiotics are beneficial bacteria. Prebiotics are the foods that feed them. In addition to supporting beneficial bacteria that are added to the system by probiotic supplements, prebiotics nourish whatever native bacteria survive antibiotic treatment.

In his book Cultivate Health from Within, Khem Shahani, PhD, one of the world’s leading research authorities on the role of Lactobacilli and gastrointestinal bacteria, explains the conditions for a food to be an effective prebiotic:

• It must pass through the upper gastrointestinal tract without being absorbed or hydrolyzed;

• It must be selectively fermented by a limited number of potentially beneficial bacteria in the colon;

• It must improve the composition of intestinal bacteria in favor of beneficial strains; and

• It should improve the host’s health.

Dr. Shahani lists several foods and food ingredients that satisfy these criteria and which belong to a special class of carbohydrates called oligosaccharides. Garlic, bananas, chicory, and milk are examples. Several oligosaccharides, including FOS (fructooligosaccharides) and GOS (galacto-oligosaccharides) are sometimes used as ingredients in yogurt, cultured dairy products, and other foods as well as in probiotic supplements. FOS and GOS ingredients are most popular in Europe and Japan, where they are used in more than 500 foods and nutritional supplements.

Another popular FOS prebiotic is the Jerusalem artichoke or sunchoke (it’s a member of the sunflower family), which contains inulin, a favorite food of lactobacteria. Jerusalem artichoke flour, for use in cooking, is widely sold in Japan.

Sweet whey, the part of milk that is separated out in the cheese-making process, is high in lactose, making it an ideal food for intestinal bacteria.

“In theory, prebiotics consumed alone might be able to deliver benefits, provided that the beneficial bacteria are indeed present in the GI tract in sufficient numbers,” says Dr. Shahani. “Today many probiotic supplements available in the marketplace now contain prebiotics. Such products (where probiotics and prebiotics are com-bined) are called synbiotics. This approach may provide an efficient mechanism for introducing and then enriching health-promoting probiotic bacterial.”

Prebiotics such as sweet whey and FOS should be introduced gradually, however, because they ferment in the large intestine, producing gassiness, abdominal discomfort, belching, bloating, and flatulence until the body adjusts.

Foods such as sauerkraut and other lactofermented vegetables contain and feed beneficial microbes, making them both probiotics and prebiotics. Lacto-fermentation breaks down and releases gases before these foods are consumed, making them far less likely to cause adverse reactions. In fact, dogs receive far more nutrition from lactofermented vegetables than from the same untreated vegetables, even if they are pureed or juiced. This is because lactofermentation breaks down, tenderizes, and predigests vegetables, increasing their vitamin content. Many natural food markets sell raw, unpasteurized sauerkraut, kimchi (Korea’s traditional sauerkraut), and other lactofermented fare. But these foods are easy to make at home, with or without special equipment. (For details, see “It’s All in How You Make It,” March 2001.)

Another easy addition to your dog’s diet is homemade yogurt. Goat milk is often recommended for dogs because it’s easier to digest than cow’s milk, and when its lactose is broken down through fermentation, it’s far less likely to cause digestive problems than other dairy products.

Commercially produced yogurt, including “live culture” brands, lose potency as they sit in stores, even on refrigerated shelves. Making your own in an electric yogurt maker is the easiest way to insure that your dog receives the maximum number of live cultures possible. If you let yogurt ferment undisturbed for 24 hours, beneficial bacteria will break down 100 percent of its lactose for maximum digestibility.

Kefir, another fermented dairy product, is even easier to make because it doesn’t require heat. Kefir’s vigorous beneficial bacteria, which easily colonize in the digestive tract, include Lactococus spp., Leuconostoc mesenteroides, Lactobacillus kefyr, Kliyveromyces marxianus, and Saccharomyces unisporus.

Don’t underestimate the health benefits of lactofermented foods. In 2005, researchers at Seoul National University in Korea announced that a culture fluid of Leuconostoc kimchii, a beneficial bacteria in kimchi, showed clear remedial effects for chickens suffering from bird flu, Newcastle disease, and bronchitis. Previous research showed that Pediococcus pentosaceus, another lactic ferment from kimchi, successfully prevented infection from harmful bacilli, including Helicobacter, which causes gastritis, and Listeria and Shigella sonnel, which cause food poisoning. Some research suggests that traditional European sauerkraut may help protect dogs and people from cancer.

Beneficial bacteria may be tiny microbes, but they’re big supporters of your dog’s immune system. Yours, too!

A long-time contributor to WDJ and author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs & Cats, and other books, CJ Puotinen lives in New York with her husband, a Lab, and a tabby cat.

Consistent Dog Training With Regards to Men and Women

By Pat Miller

Science and common observation tells us that male and female brains are different. That’s no surprise to anyone who has noticed the gender-related differences that often occur in relationships between men, women, and their canine companions. Some of the differences can be beneficial, while others may be detrimental to domestic tranquility as it relates to life with the family dog.

The question is, which differences should be nurtured and encouraged? Which ones need to be addressed to prevent the dog from being confused and creating behavior problems? And how can that be accomplished?

In general, men tend to be more physical with their dogs, and more assertive, enjoying rough-and-tumble wrestling games and expecting the dog to understand and obey. Women tend to be softer, more into cuddling than wrestling, and take more interest in teaching the dog to understand the complex world of primate (human) communication. Of course, these are generalizations; there are certainly men who like to cuddle their dogs and women who are into canine wrestling matches!

A time to be physical

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The same physical behavior may be appropriate with one dog and inappropriate with another. My own husband enjoys more physical interaction with our dogs than I do. This works out fine with Tucker, our 70-pound Cattle Dog-mix, who gets a wild-eyed look and a huge grin on his face when Paul starts pushing and grabbing at him, or teases him by slapping at his paws. With excellent bite inhibition, Tucker enjoys the interactions with open mouth and fierce growls, but in 13 years of rough play has never put a tooth on human skin.

For Tucker, Paul’s physical games are appropriate and acceptable. Just last week, however, I had to remind my beloved that paw-slapping is not appropriate play for Lucy, our two-year-old Cardigan Corgi. This is especially true when she’s chewing a bone, because she has mild resource-guarding behaviors that could easily be exacerbated by confrontational games, and has always tended toward being mouthy.

When a family member insists on physical interactions with a dog like Lucy, the solution is to agree on physical games that don’t reinforce inappropriate behaviors. My favorite for this is Tug of War – with rules. (See “Tug: Play It by the Rules,” October 2004.) The dog’s teeth are directed to an acceptable tug object rather than human skin, and dog and human can be as rough as they like as long as it’s mutually enjoyable to both parties, and both can play by the rules. A valuable side effect to Tug is that, properly played, it reinforces a healthy hierarchy between dog and human, as the human most often ends up in possession of the tug prize. A good leader controls the good stuff.

On the gentler side of Tug, the game can be used to elevate status for a dog like our Bonnie Wee Lass, a Scottie/something mix who, at the age of one year, is finally outgrowing her submissive urination behavior. Because I play more softly than Paul, I’m a better Tug partner for Bonnie, deliberately avoiding rough play that might intimidate her, and letting her win the game far more often than I let her assertive packmate, Lucy, end up with the prize.

Other more physical interactions that may appeal to the “Men Being Men” dog-owning set include high-arousal canine activities like agility. Even men who aren’t into canine competition (which seems to be more popular with women, perhaps because of the precision and discipline required) can romp with their dogs just for fun over agility and natural obstacles. Many men revel in their dogs’ athletic ability as they leap over jumps and navigate teeters and fallen logs. Dock diving, where dogs leap long distances off docks and splash-land in water to retrieve objects, also tends to appeal to many men.

It’s important to recognize and acknowledge the value of physical games. They can be great exercise when done appropriately. They’re also great relationship builders. A rousing game of Tug can be a great stress and exercise reliever for a high-energy canine suffering from cabin fever due to inclement weather. Don’t grudgingly tell your partner, “All right, if you must roughhouse with the dog, go ahead, as long as you do it the right way . . .” Instead, let him know how much you appreciate him playing with and exercising the dog. Help him understand why game rules are important, and reinforce him for playing by the rules. Humans respond well to positive reinforcement, too!

Presence

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The male voice is more intimidating to most dogs than softer, higher-pitched female tones. Without even thinking about it, men can “command” obedience from dogs, eliciting appeasement behaviors with their naturally deeper, louder voices, larger physical form, and generally more assertive presence.

Of course, men can overdo intimidation, causing dogs, especially those with soft personalities, to shut down, withdraw, even become fearful in response to the male presence. In fact, if the male partner overdoes the intimidation thing, constantly using a stern voice to get the dog to comply with “commands,” it can interfere with a female partner’s ability to succeed with a gentler training approach.

Women are often magically adept at helping a soft or shy dog build confidence and getting dogs to happily buy into a training program. Their softer body image, higher pitched voices, and greater willingness to be silly can result in dogs who offer uninhibited, joyful behaviors in training and relationship. On the other hand, some women can overdo “soft and silly,” to the point the dog may have difficulty taking them seriously.

It’s vital to recognize the value in both the male and female style of interacting with dogs. Each gender can benefit by deliberately learning to use tools of the other and to dampen their own gender-related behaviors when appropriate to enhance their communications skills with their dogs. Dogs can benefit if partners have discussions about how their personal styles and relationships with their dogs differ, which parts benefit the training program, and which of their own human behaviors they might strive to modify to achieve the greatest success.

Tips for mom ’n pop training:
If you and your partner don’t yet have a dog, talk about gender-related differences and how closely you each fit your gender stereotype or not. Be sure to look for a dog who can accommodate your styles. If either partner is very loud and assertive, avoid very soft canine personalities. If either partner is very soft and non-assertive, avoid very strong, pushy dogs. It’s not fair to get a dog who’s poorly suited to one human style or the other and expect the partner to change overnight to be able to cope with the dog’s training needs.

If you already have your dog, you can:

• Acknowledge that there are good and not-so-good things about both gender training styles and agree to work on them together. Sit down with your partner and discuss how your training and relationship styles and preferred activities differ.

• Make a list of interactions that each partner has with the dog, and agree on which are beneficial and which are detrimental. A sample list might look something like this:

Man – Can get the dog to sit or come reliably and consistently using a deep, calm voice (beneficial); encourages the dog to jump up (detrimental); plays Tug with the dog (beneficial) but doesn’t always play by the rules (detrimental); usually feeds dog (beneficial) but is too casual about feeding, setting the bowl onto floor as dog dances around and jumps up (detrimental); always requires the dog to sit calmly to attach leash to go for walk (beneficial) but yells at the dog if he doesn’t sit promptly (detrimental); and takes the dog for long hikes (beneficial).

Woman – Takes dog to training classes and practices daily (beneficial), but often “chatters” to the dog during training, to the point that the dog tunes her out (detrimental); is consistent about using treat rewards and other reinforcers for desirable behaviors (beneficial), but sometimes reinforces inappropriate behaviors because they’re “cute” (detrimental); routinely grooms the dog, using positive reinforcement and desensitization to help dog enjoy the grooming experience (beneficial); has the dog sit at the door to go outside (beneficial), but sometimes lets the dog out anyway if she can’t get him to sit (detrimental); chases the dog when he grabs something he’s not supposed to have (detrimental).

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• Agree to acknowledge (reinforce) each other for all the good stuff on the lists. The partners might agree to put a quarter (or a dollar!) in a rewards jar every time they see the other perform one of the beneficial activities. When the tally in the jar reaches a pre-determined amount, the partners can use it to pay for a fun date together (a weekend at a dog-friendly B&B?), or to buy something they both want.

• Agree to work on self-awareness corrections for detrimental behaviors. Whenever one partner realizes that s/he did one of the detrimental activities a quarter (dollar) goes in the corrections jar. Partners should avoid correcting each other; nothing goes in the jar for correcting your partner! Partners can use the money in the jar to buy agreed-upon toys, treats, and training equipment for the dog.

• Agree in advance to do it all in good humor, always remembering that it’s in the best interests of the dog, and of family harmony. Viva la difference!

Dog Trainers Note How Men and Women May Train Differently

Men are from Mars. Women are from Venus. Dogs are from Neptune. A well-known trainer recently made a public comment about men’s inability to act silly with their dogs, to the detriment of their ability to use positive training methods effectively.

Are we really three alien species, destined to live forever in a world of miscommunication and misinterpretation? Is one gender truly better suited to bridge the communication gap between the human and canine species? We fervently hope the answer to the first question is “No!” – and strive to offer Whole Dog Journal readers new information and resources every month to help cross the species barrier. If the 38 trainers who responded to our casual survey on this topic are right, the answer to the second question may be, “Not better, just different!”

For starters, it appears that women are significantly overrepresented, at least in the positive dog-training community, which is where we posed our questions. In a survey of its members a few years ago, the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, then about 3,000 strong, found that approximately 80 percent of its membership was female. Respondents to our recent questionnaire were 95 percent female (36 of 38). Here are some of their thoughts on the subject of men versus women in the pet-dog training world.

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Question: Among your clients, what approximate percentage are male and what percentage are female?

Answer: Women appear to be overrepresented on the client side of the equation as well as the professional side, although not as overwhelmingly – about 2 to 1 instead of close to 20 to 1. One trainer responded that her clientele was 50/50 male and female. The rest were heavy on the side of female clients, ranging from 60 to 98 percent women. The average of all the answers was 68.8 percent female, 31.2 percent male.

Are there generalizations you would make about the differences between the training styles of men and women?

The general consensus was that women are less likely to use force, are more verbal, more patient, better at listening to instruction, more willing to follow instruction, better at paying attention to and reading dog body language, more supportive of the concept of force-free training – and less likely to be consistent and structured in their training. Trainers noted that men are more likely to want fast results, more apt to use physical strength, more likely to participate in discussions, more interested in “how” than “why” – and less willing to use animated body language and “happy voice.”

Trainer comments
• Kathie Compton, mARFa Dog Training, Marfa, TX: “Generally, men tend to be more reluctant to give enthusiastic praise and are less animated with their dogs. Men and women take to positive training about equally, but women seem to have an innate understanding of the concept – perhaps because they value the importance of communication in a relationship and tend to be primary caretakers.”

• Maggie Blutreich, CPDT, Bravo! Force-Free Training, Wingate, NC: “Women seem more flexible and patient, able to assess many options before arriving at an action or conclusion. Some men seem less able to reward successive approximations – waiting for or even insisting on the entire behavior to manifest before marking and rewarding. Also, men can be quicker to physically react.”

• Susan Shaulis, Cedarwater Dog Training, Germantown, MD: “I think it’s more that men and women have a different way of going about things. Men have an easier time becoming the pack leader and disciplining, and women have an easier time praising and relaxing the dog.”

• Ritsa Larkin, CPDT, Happy Hounds Dog Training, Selden, NY: “I need to encourage men more to find their ‘inner happy voice’ and not be so monotone when communicating with their dogs. I sometimes need to remind women not to use so many words – they can have conversations with their dogs all day (I know I do) – but in training, simple and concise is best.”

 

Do you tend to teach men differently from women? If so, what are the differences?

Answers to this question varied, but the majority of the trainers who responded emphasized that they try to use teaching styles based on individual needs rather than gender assumptions. This speaks well for the pet-dog training profession, and is a pronounced change from old-fashioned training methods, where there was usually one way to do things and you were expected to do them that way, regardless of your own (or your dog’s) learning style and personality, or relationship with your dog.

• Felicia Monteforte, MVP Dog Training, Sayreville, NJ: “I don’t look at gender when training, I look at personality and go from there. If there are differences, it would generally be to have men try to loosen up a bit, and teach the women how to click with long nails.”

• Susan Brumbelow, CPDT, Douglasville, GA: “I’m not aware of differences in my training methods based on gender. But I do vary my methods based on an individual’s skill, coordination, and patience.”

• Ann Dupuis, Your Dream Dog, Randolph, MA: “I try to tailor my teaching style to each individual. Some people want to see something demonstrated multiple times before they try it; others like to jump right in and try it out. Some really appreciate learning the why’s and how’s behind what I’m teaching; others just want to see it work. I haven’t noticed any quantifiable differences based on gender.”

• Marni Fowler, CPDT, Class Act for Dogs, Gainesville, FL: “I may be a little more touchy-feely with my comments and praise when it comes to women. I may tend to make more comments on how cute the dog is, whereas with a man I may comment more on the dog’s cleverness or physical fitness. But it really depends on the individuals as to what I think would work better for them.”

• Mary Elizabeth Van Everbroeck, Pet Guardian Education and Animal Advocacy Services, Inc., Warminster, PA: “Yes, men are results-oriented and tend to become bored more quickly than women. I tailor my instruction to accommodate this difference between the sexes. Men are generally more apt to be ‘focused’ while women are more ‘contextual.’ Effective instruction requires an appreciation for both skills in order to help pet owners and their dogs.”

• Peg Dawson Harrington, The Happy Hound, Nashville, TN: “I’m not really conscious of teaching differently; the physical stuff is the same. I do use different analogies when speaking to men; I’ll liken clicker training to ‘just another video game.’ And then there’s the ‘spit the treats into the dog’s mouth’ thing that doesn’t go over as well with my women clients, but the guys – for the most part – seem to like it.”

 

Do you find that it’s easier for men or women to learn clicker skills, or about the same?

Trainers were all over the map on this one. Many found gender-linked clicker skills to be about the same. Others found distinct differences. This supports the concept that training skills are less about gender and more about individual personality and ability.

• Jo Jacques, WiggleBums! Dog-Friendly Training & Behavior Counseling, Salem, MA: “About the same, but I find women tend to stick with it longer.”

• Mary Lou Carroll, Puppy-Luvs Dog Training, Elizabeth City, NC: “Women generally seem to pick up on the timing more quickly. Perhaps their observational skills tend to be a little better, on average? Men seem to fumble more with all the ‘stuff’ – clicker, gear, treats, etc.”

• Jim Barry, Rhode Island Dog Guy, Middletown, RI: “This seems not particularly related to gender but rather to manual dexterity, which is gender-neutral. I do find that probably a higher percentage of women are open to carrying a clicker around, and young men in particular seem to find it a little ‘dorky.’ ”

• Sabine Hentrich, Four Positive Paws LLC, Greenbelt, MD: “For whatever reason, in my experience men tend to be better at learning clicker skills. They can be faster, have better timing in general, and are good at observing their dogs. They also tend to be less inhibited about making mistakes and can laugh at their own blunders more easily than their female partners. The clients I have the most trouble with are elderly female clients, and I frequently encourage them to use a verbal marker instead.”

• Pam Parrish, Pamadona Weimaraners/Weimaraner Rescue of the South, Huntsville, AL: “Men seem to be intimidated by the clicker. I suggest they use a voice marker instead, and they seem to like that better.”

 

If you use a marker other than the clicker, do you find that it’s easier for men or women to learn the marker skills, or about the same?

With verbal marker skills, there seemed to be more of a consensus among trainers that gender doesn’t seem to matter.

• Frances Dauster, CPDT, P’s and Q’s Dog Training! LLC, Grand Bay, AL: “About the same. It seems like the men work harder at good timing, whereas the women more often have it naturally.”

• Elaine Berg, Golden Rule Dog Training, Keller, TX: “I have found women will try harder to remember the verbal marker than men – at least in front of me. I don’t know what happens when they are doing their homework.”

• Ann King, Canine King, Yonkers, NY: “I truly believe this one is dependent on the individual. Although, I often wonder though if I changed my marker word from ‘Yes!’ to ‘Score!’ if it would be a breeze for men to mark the behavior…”

• Margaret A. Johnson, CPDT, CC-SF SPCA, The Humaner Trainer, Austin, TX: “I think people are all over the map on this one. Doesn’t seem to matter if they are men, women, engineers, artists… It’s who has the best observational skills and timing. The best person I’ve had was a deaf student – probably because she reads a lot of body language when interpreting the world. Next best are kids.”

 

Is there anything else you’d like to say on the topic of Men v. Women in dog training?

• Silvia Golz, CPDT, Best Friends Companion Dog Training, Appleton, WI: “I think that the women clients take a woman trainer more seriously than they would a male, and vice versa for the men. My male clients tend to be the “Yes, but . . .” clients more so than the women.”

• Bea Pludow, CPDT, Canine Behavior Specialist, El Cajon, CA: “Women generally appear less dangerous to dogs. Men generally appear more dangerous, in my experience, because there are fewer of them involved in the training and socialization process, and they are bigger and stronger-sounding and -smelling than females. Although I have met some ‘really dangerous’ women trainers!”

• Ali Brown, CPDT, Great Companions, Slatington, PA: “I only wish I saw more men in the rally ring, the agility ring, and in my classes.”

• Lisa Giesick, CPDT, Ohana Pet, Marina, CA: “I think it would be wonderful to have more men as positive trainers. If more men embraced positive training, I think it would get rid of the thinking that positive trainers are ‘foo foo’ trainers who are just afraid to show their dog who is boss!”

• Joan Hunter-Mayer, CTC, The Inquisitive Canine LLC, Ventura, CA: “As long as there is a constant increase in positive reinforcement methods and a decrease in aversive techniques, I don’t care about the gender of the trainer, human client, or poochie client.”

Supported by science
So there you have it: an industry-insider look at the differences between the sexes as we relate to our canine companions. Is there any scientific basis to our perceived differences? One list reader sent us this quote from Mind Wide Open, a book about the physiological differences between male and female brains:

“It is inevitable that natural selection would craft slightly different toolboxes for each sex. Viewed with modern imagining technologies, men’s and women’s brains are nearly as distinct from each other as their bodies are. They have reliably different amounts of neurons and gray matter; some areas linked with sexuality and aggression are larger in men than in women; the left and right hemispheres are more tightly integrated in women than in men. And of course, those brains – and the bodies they are attached to – are partially shaped by the two different kinds of hormones, the androgens and estrogens, which play a key role both in development and adult life experiences.”

Modern, positive trainers strive to base their training programs on scientific data rather than anecdotal evidence alone. The information provided by imaging technologies affirms and supports professional intuition regarding gender-related differences in training.

The trainers we surveyed were aware of and receptive to the idea of sex-based differences in training; dog training is clearly as much about people as it is about dogs. Trainers who are aware of gender tendencies can watch for them and use them to everyone’s advantage when working with human clients. Even better are trainers, such as those we surveyed, who can use gender tendencies to best advantage while also working with the learning styles and skills of each dog owner as an individual, not as a stereotype. The best of both worlds!

Natural Remedies for Cleaning Dog Wounds

cleaning dog wounds

NATURAL REMEDIES FOR CLEANING DOG WOUNDS: OVERVIEW

1. Clean cuts, abrasions, or wounds with skin-soothing herbal teas or an herb-vinegar rinse.

2. Spray or apply skin-healing hydrosols, essential oil blends, salves, or other topical products that stimulate cell growth, fight infection, and speed repair.

3. Give your dog enzymes and other supplements that help heal wounds from the inside.

4. Keep natural first-aid products on hand to treat bites, cuts, scrapes, and other wounds as soon as they occur.

Your dog just had surgery, stepped on broken glass, caught her tail in a door, has a puncture wound, got bit or scratched, tangled with barbed wire, or has an abrasion that came from who knows where. You want the wound to heal quickly without bleeding, pain, or infection. The following strategies help with cleaning dog wounds.

Topical Remedies for Cleaning Dog Wounds

Herbal Tea Rinses

Any wound can be cleaned and encouraged to mend with a strongly brewed herbal tea, which can be applied as a spray, rinse, wash, or compress.

Herbs known for their skin-healing properties include comfrey (Symphytum officinale) leaf and root, St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) blossoms, calendula (Calendula officinalis) blossoms, broad- or narrow-leaved plantain (Plantago spp.) leaves, and lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) leaves and blossoms. Most herbal supply companies and natural foods markets sell dried herbs that can be used for wound treatment, or you can plant your own. Comfrey and lavender are easy-to-grow perennials, calendula is a self-seeding annual, and plantain and St. John’s wort grow wild in much of the U.S.

Comfrey is important to wound-healing because it contains allantoin, a cell growth stimulant. The plant used to be called “knit bone” because it helps heal broken bones when applied topically. Comfrey works so quickly that it should not be applied to sutures that will have to be removed or to puncture wounds in which bacteria might be trapped by rapidly healing skin, but it is highly effective on scrapes, burns, cuts, insect or spider bites, and other injuries.

Teas containing soothing anti-inflammatory herbs like German chamomile (Matricaria recutita), Roman chamomile (Anthemis nobilis), or lavender help reduce itching and discomfort when sprayed or applied topically.

To brew an herbal tea for wound cleansing or treatment, use 2 teaspoons dried herb or 2 tablespoons fresh herb per cup of boiling water. Cover and let the tea steep until cool. Strain, refrigerate, and apply as needed, up to several times per day.

Vinegar Rinse

Apple cider vinegar has long been used for first aid. Applied to cuts, wounds, dull fur, skin infections, calluses, and itchy areas, vinegar soothes skin, improves the coat, aids healing, and helps repel fleas and ticks.

For an old-fashioned skin tonic, try this simple blend of herbs in vinegar. Combine fresh or dried rosemary leaves, calendula blossoms, rose petals, juniper berries, lavender stalks or flowers, lemon peel, orange peel, sage, cinnamon, cloves, and/or chamomile blossoms, in any combination. Arrange herbs loosely in a glass jar (fill only one-third full with dried herbs) and cover with raw (unpasteurized) organic cider vinegar. Seal tightly and leave the jar in a warm place, in or out of the sun, for a month or longer.

Strain, transfer to storage bottles, and keep in a cool, dark place. Shake well before using to improve coat condition, rinse wounds, heal sores, repel insects, and soothe irritated skin. For dogs with white or very light coats, substitute plain white vinegar.

Willard Water

Willard water concentrate can be added to water, herbal tea, or hydrosols at the rate of 1 teaspoon per quart to help the liquid penetrate and speed the healing of burns, cuts, wounds, and other injuries.

Unrefined Sea Salt

Mineral-rich unrefined sea salt can be added to any tea that will be used to treat wounds.

Lightly salted and strained chamomile tea makes an excellent eye wash. Add 1/8 teaspoon salt per cup of tea.

To make an effective spray for any skin disorder, cut, or wound, combine 4 cups of any herbal tea, such as those described above, with ¾ cup aloe vera juice or gel and ½ cup unrefined sea salt.

Even plain salt water is a wound-healing treatment. Years ago in my dog’s obedience class, a female German Shepherd Dog suffered from a sore that wouldn’t heal despite repeated trips to the veterinarian over several months. When her owner applied a solution of 2 tablespoons unrefined sea salt in ½ cup water, the sore improved the same day and healed within a week.

Aromatherapy

Hydrosols are the “flower waters” produced along with essential oils during steam distillation. Hydrosols contain trace amounts of essential oil as well as all of the distilled plant’s water-soluble components. As a result, hydrosols are like a strong herbal tea combined with very dilute essential oils, making them safe for topical application even on young puppies and weak or elderly dogs.

Hydrosols are less expensive than essential oils, but they have a shorter shelf life. For best results, buy hydrosols from a reliable distributor and keep them refrigerated.

Leading hydrosols for wound care include the previously mentioned lavender plus helichrysum, also known as immortelle or everlasting (Helichrysum italicum); tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia); oregano (Origanum vulgaris); and witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana).

Essential oils have significant healing properties, but most essential oils – even those of the highest therapeutic quality – are so concentrated that they can overwhelm a dog’s sensitive olfactory system, causing discomfort, or have a harsh effect on the wound itself. Because they’re so powerful, essential oils can be greatly diluted without losing their effectiveness. Kristen Leigh Bell, author of Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals, recommends approximately 10 drops of essential oil per tablespoon of base oil for canine use. Diluting threapeutic-quality essential oils makes them both gentler and more affordable.

Ten drops of essential oil, such as those from plants listed above, in a tablespoon of base oil is an effective blend for cuts, wounds, scrapes, irritations, burns, bruises, and post-operative incisions.

An even more effective combination would be to use calophyllum or tamanu oil (Calophyllum inophyllum), which is pressed from the fruit and seed of the tamanu tree of India and Polynesia, as the base oil. Calophyllum oil is one of the most prized oils for healing wounds, burns, rashes, insect bites, broken capillaries, skin cracks, eczema, psoriasis, and other skin conditions. This oil can be used full-strength or diluted with equal parts jojoba, olive oil, or other base oil.

Any herbal oil can be turned into a salve by adding beeswax or other thickeners, as described in “Healing Oils For Your Dog“.

Coconut Oil

Coconut oil’s medium-chain fatty acids fight harmful bacteria, viruses, yeasts, fungi, and parasites, making it a perfect salve or dressing for cuts and wounds of every description. The only down side to coconut oil is that in temperatures below 75oF, it’s solid. Keep some in a small jar or bottle for easy warming in hot water.

Coconut oil is an excellent carrier oil for essential oils. But there is another down side – most dogs love the flavor and will quickly lick it off. If the wound is where your dog can’t reach, keeping it moist with coconut oil is an excellent idea.

EMT Gel

Many products are sometimes marketed as a first-aid kit in a tube, jar, or bottle, but EMT Gel truly is. Its key ingredient, collagen, is a fibrous protein found in connective tissue, muscles, ligaments, skin, bone, and cartilage.

EMT Gel’s specially processed bovine collagen acts as a tissue adhesive, providing a matrix for new cell growth while sealing and protecting wounds and significantly reducing pain, bleeding, scarring, wound weeping, and the risk of infection.

One of EMT Gel’s success stories comes from Shannon Rogers-Peisert of Liberty, Missouri, whose black Labrador Retriever, Cody, severed an artery while jumping a fence. “There was blood everywhere,” she says. “I had a sample of EMT Gel and thought to use it before taking Cody to the emergency clinic. The vet said it kept Cody from bleeding to death.”

In New Mexico in 2002, Troy Sparks and a friend spent quail season’s opening day hunting with Lucy, his Llewellyn Setter. When they returned to the truck, he noticed a blood clot on Lucy’s neck, and as he began to clean it, blood poured down her neck. Sparks applied EMT Gel, gauze, and vet wrap to hold it in place, then drove straight to Lucy’s veterinarian two hours away. When the vet removed the dressing, Sparks says, a six-inch stream of blood shot out. After getting stitches, Lucy recovered quickly.

Once applied, EMT Gel can be left undisturbed, which simplifies dressing changes. The collagen forms a plug that stops bleeding by encouraging clotting, and its occlusion of nerve endings reduces pain. Veterinarians in research universities and clinical practice recommend EMT Gel for abrasions, lacerations, skin ulcers, gunshot wounds, bites, first- and second-degree burns, electrical injuries, frostbite, post-surgical incisions, suture and IV sites, skin graft sites, and other wounds.

Sample sizes are no longer available. EMT Gel is sold in 1-ounce tubes and has a two-year shelf life.

The company also makes an EMT Gel Spray for the treatment of scrapes, scratches, and other minor skin injuries. In addition to wound-healing collagen, the nontoxic spray contains an extremely bitter taste that deters dogs from licking it off.

Tree resin, Pitch, and PAV Ointment

Tree resin or pitch contains powerful antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal ingredients. In fact, pitch from America’s coniferous trees has been a folk remedy for centuries to treat skin infections, black widow and brown recluse spider bites, flea and tick bites, wasp and bee stings, gum infections, poison oak and ivy rashes, ringworm, staph infections, burns, scalds, surgical incisions, and other injuries.

The medicinal use of pitch had all but died out when it was resurrected in the 1970s by Forrest Smith, a retired logger from Northern California. Now his NATR (North American Tree Resin) company is the leading source of resin from the pitch of Pacific coast Douglas fir, yellow pine, and other coniferous trees.

Smith became interested in the healing properties of pitch when a medical missionary took some to South America. The physician spent years in remote areas, where he routinely performed surgery without sterile equipment or antibiotics. Before closing every incision, he covered the area with pitch and applied more before bandaging the wound. He was a steady customer for over 15 years because none of his patients developed an infection and all experienced rapid healing.

Smith recounts a friend’s experience years ago when he tried to help a dog that had been hit by a car. The dog was everyone’s friend, so the man did his best to patch him up even though his entrails were covered with sand as he lay by the side of the road. “My friend had some pitch with him,” says Smith, “and he poured it over the sandy intestines and shoved them back into the abdominal cavity. Then he covered the wound with more pitch and tied the dog together, no stitches, with rags wrapped around his body. That dog healed completely and lived in good health for several more years.”

More recently, a customer called to say that when her small dog was bit on the foot by a copperhead snake, the foot swelled quickly. “Not knowing what to do,” she said, “I found your resin bottle and covered the dog’s foot with it and wrapped it up. Soon he quit complaining and the next day he was running around as if nothing was wrong.”

Smith does not prescribe tree resin for snake bites or any other medical condition, but pitch has a long record of use for venomous bites and stings.

Pitch can be used full-strength or added to herbal salves and oils in any proportion. Mixing pitch with olive oil or another carrier helps it spread and reduces its stickiness. NATR’s products include full-strength pitch, pitch diluted with olive oil, a Hot Spot Pet/Livestock formula, and the company’s most popular product, PAV salve, which stands for Pitch and Vaseline petroleum jelly. All are safe for pet use. Avoid eyes and mucous membranes, and keep flammable pitch away from fire or flame.

Internal Supplements to Accelerate Your Dog’s Healing Process

Several vitamins and minerals are known to have healing properties, but zinc is especially important for wound healing. Supplementing the diet with a product like Standard Process Dermal Support, which contains zinc and other skin-healing ingredients from whole-food sources, provides the body with easily assimilated nutrients that help repair damaged tissue.

Zinc and other trace minerals are found in unrefined sea salt. Salt’s electrolytes and the enzymes they help produce are important to healthy immune function, rapid wound healing, adrenal health, and the regulation of bodily fluids. Add up to 1/8 teaspoon unrefined sea salt per 25 pounds of body weight per day to food.

Seacure

High-quality protein is essential for wound healing and for the repair of damaged fur and skin. Seacure, a deep-sea fermented whitefish powder, is predigested so that its amino acids and peptides, the building blocks of skin and hair, are immediately absorbed and utilized. The product is available in chewable dog-treat tabs and as a powder as well as in 500-mg capsules.

To help dogs recover from surgery, cuts, wounds, broken bones, or other trauma injuries, give at least twice the label’s recommended maintenance dose of 1 capsule, 1 tablet, or ¼ teaspoon powder per 10 pounds of body weight.

“There is no maximum dose,” says Dee Eckert, the manufacturer’s director of operations. “Several years ago my Basset Hound, Fergison, was attacked by another dog and suffered a severe puncture wound to his snout. I immediately took him to the vet, who said he would have a scar and that the hair on his nose would never grow back. Since he is allergic to many medications, surgery was not an option.

“After the vet thoroughly cleaned the wound, I took him home and gave him 3 tablespoons of Seacure daily. Within 48 hours, the wound closed and scabbed over. By the following week, it had completely healed and the hair was growing back. Fergison’s case was not unusual, for many pet owners, breeders, and vets have sent reports about how quickly wounds heal when Seacure for Pets is added to the animal’s diet.”

Colostrum Supplements

Colostrum, the “first milk” produced by mammals after giving birth, has become a popular supplement because of its immune-boosting properties. Some holistic vets, like Stephen Blake, DVM, of San Diego, feed colostrum to injured animals and also apply it to their cuts and wounds.

“I have found colostrum to be the best topical agent for healing any possible wound,” he says. “It works twice as fast as any other products I have used in the past 33 years. Colostrum contains EgF (epithelial growth factors) and IgF (insulin-like growth factor). Without adequate growth factors, the body cannot repair damaged cells, no matter how well the patient is being fed.”

Because research has shown that salivary amylase and hydrochloric acid in the stomach improve the activity of colostrum’s growth factors, Dr. Blake recommends offering the powder by itself on an empty stomach half an hour or more before a meal. “I give it once per day, first thing in the morning,” he says. “I haven’t yet met a dog who doesn’t like it that way, but if one exists, I would add it to food.”

To help injured dogs heal quickly, Dr. Blake recommends giving twice to three times the recommended maintenance dose of one 500-mg capsule or 1/3 teaspoon powder per 25 pounds of body weight per day. For an injured 50-pound dog, this would be 4 to 6 capsules or between 1 and 2 teaspoons powder per day.

For topical application, Dr. Blake mixes colostrum powder with enough water, herbal tea, or hydrosol to create a thin paste, which can be applied directly to wounds. “Your dog will want to lick it off,” he warns, “so keep him busy for five minutes while it gets absorbed, then let him do what he likes. Leave the wound open to breathe and apply colostrum twice a day until healing is well under way.”

Wobenzym

Wobenzym is a German enzyme product that is taken between meals on an empty stomach. Just as it’s given to human accident victims and surgical patients in large doses to speed healing and prevent swelling, tenderness, and bruising, it can be given to dogs immediately after injury or surgery.

Corneal ulcers, bruises, cuts, trauma injuries, and surgical incisions respond quickly to Wobenzym, which prevents swelling, breaks down inflammation, and speeds healing. Most dogs respond well to 1 tablet per 10 pounds of body weight (up to a maximum of 5 tablets at a time) given every 1 or 2 hours until improvement is seen. That dose is continued for several days or as needed. Once recovery is under way, a typical maintenance dose is up to 5 tablets twice or three times per day. See the October article for detailed instructions.

Wobenzym thins the blood and is not recommended for dogs with bleeding or platelet disorders, and caregivers should watch for small blood spots on the gums, pale gums, bloodshot eyes, or any abnormal bleeding. Reduce or discontinue the product if these unusual side effects occur.

Arnica Tincture

An important first-aid item, arnica tincture is best known for its dramatic effect on bruises and trauma injuries – and for its “external use only” labels. European physicians have long prescribed arnica tea or tincture as a cardiac agent, but it is such a powerful heart stimulant that most American herbalists believe arnica should never be taken internally or used on open wounds.

By taking such a cautious approach, say some experts, users deprive themselves of arnica’s most important potential. In small doses, arnica can stop internal bleeding and stimulate healing, especially after trauma injuries. For emergency use, give 1 drop of arnica tincture directly on the tongue or diluted in water per 15 pounds of body weight two to four times daily.

This simple therapy saved the life of Rosie, a cat whose encounter with a taxi resulted in a broken sacrum and broken tail. Because they believed she would never urinate or defecate normally, Rosie’s vets recommended putting her to sleep. But after a week of taking Herb Pharm’s arnica extract twice per day, Rosie was eliminating normally and made a rapid recovery.

Ed Smith, the founder of Herb Pharm, told me that Rosie’s story is typical and that arnica treats injury-caused incontinence and other problems in people as well as pets. A highly regarded herbalist and researcher, Smith finds no justification for the warning labels on arnica products. In addition to its internal use, he recommends applying arnica tincture to bleeding wounds and other injuries to reduce swelling, pain, and bruising. The sooner it is used after injury, he says, the better it works.

Barefoot Outdoors

Mother Nature’s healing aids include unfiltered natural light, which all of us need for optimum health, and direct (barefoot) exposure to earth or grass. Insufficient natural light can disrupt endocrine function and slow healing. Most dogs seek natural light, just as they seek contact with the bare earth or grass.

According to San Diego health researcher Dale Teplitz, “Clinical research suggests that standing on the earth can decrease inflammation and increase circulation to accelerate healing in dogs and people. When we are wounded, the immune system springs into action sending scavengers to the site to break down damaged tissues for removal from the body. Earth contact provides an unlimited supply of free electrons to neutralize excess free radicals that cause inflammation.”

Freelance writer CJ Puotinen is the author of  The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and many other books.

Post-Operation Acupressure for Dysplastic Dogs

[Updated February 8, 2018]

During the past decade, conventional veterinary surgery has made great strides in helping dogs lead more comfortable and fuller lives. But an ancient therapy – acupressure – nicely augments the more modern medical practice and increases its benefits.

Oak, a Golden Retriever puppy, is a good example of how one of the newer surgical procedures benefited and extended his life, and how acupressure improved the surgery’s effectiveness.

golden retriever hip dysplasia

As in many service dog breeding programs, Oak was bred for one particular trait: his temperament. In this case, Oak and his Golden Retriever littermates were bred to be calm, easygoing, highly social, and trainable. When breeding for a single trait, often the health of an animal is compromised in other ways. Unfortunately, every puppy in the litter had orthopedic problems and none were able to fulfill their intended mission of being a service dog.

By the time Oak was 10 months old, it was clear that he had severe hip dysplasia. Radiographs confirmed that there was literally no hip socket on his right side.

After consulting with three veterinary surgeons, it was decided that the best course of action was a triple pelvic osteotomy (TPO), where the hip is reformed to create a socket. This procedure was considered experimental 10 years ago when Oak was much in need of it. Today, it is a common surgery for hip dysplasia.

Traditional Chinese Medicine for Post-Op Healing

Immediately following the surgical procedure, Oak received an acupressure session specifically for post-operative issues to support him in his recovery. Acupressure, like acupuncture, is based on Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). The intent of Oak’s acupressure sessions was to bring more chi (pronounced “chee” and also seen as Qi or Ki), the life-promoting energy that the ancient Chinese saw as essential for all life; and increase “Blood” flow, to optimize the healing process while maintaining the body’s energetic balance.

In TCM, “Blood” is not only the nutrient-rich, red fluid that flows through our veins; it is more broadly defined as fluids that nourish and moisten the body’s organs, bones, and other tissues.

acupressure for hip dysplasia surgery

Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute

According to TCM, there are energetic pathways (called meridians) where chi and Blood flow through the canine body. Along these meridians there are specific points, or acupoints, where we can apply pressure and actually influence the flow of chi, Blood, and other body fluids. When there is an interruption or blockage of chi along the meridian, acupoints are used to restore the natural harmonious flow of chi and Blood so that the body can heal itself.

From a Chinese Medicine perspective, any surgical procedure represents an insult or injury to the body that disrupts the flow of chi and Blood. To support the animal’s healing process, we select acupoints that can:

• Help with pain management;
• Clear the effects of anesthesia;
• Minimize the building of scar tissue;
• Reduce swelling and collection of body fluids; and,
• Enhance the circulation of chi and Blood to ensure the removal of toxins and provide nourishment to the injured area.

Canine Acupressure Points for Post-Surgical Healing

canine bladder meridian

Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute

POINT FUNCTION & LOCATION
BL 17 Improves Blood and chi circulation. Lateral to the caudal border of the spinous process of the 7th thoracic vertebrae.
BL 60 “Aspirin Point” relieves pain in the body. Located at the thinnest part of the hock, lateral aspect.
LI 14 Relieves pain, promotes circulation of protective chi and Blood. Benefits the immune system. Located at webbing of dewclaw.
ST 36 Promotes chi and Blood flow and benefits the immune system. Located just lateral to the tibial crest.
SP 6 Promotes Blood and chi circulation. Located about three inches above the tip of the medial malleolus.
LIV 3 Helps remove toxins, regulates and tonifies Liver Blood. Found between the 1st and 2nd metatarsal bones.

Recovering from the Triple Pelvic Osteotomy

Oak’s acupressure sessions began within an hour after surgery, while he was still under the influence of the anesthesia. For the first four days, he received a session every 24 hours. For the following two weeks he had an acupressure session every third day.

A week after his extensive TPO surgery, Oak went back to the surgeon for a check-up. As he walked down the hall and into the examination room, the surgeon, while watching him walk asked, “Is Oak here for his month check? He is walking very well.”

Within a week, Oak had gone from being in extreme pain and almost completely immobilized to being able to walk comfortably and evenly on both flat terrain and up and down stairs. Thanks to his basic good health and acupressure sessions, Oak’s rapid recovery took the surgeon by surprise.

Because of the advancements in conventional medicine and the powerful healing capacity of TCM, Oak, now 10 years old, is still able to jump into the back of an SUV, run up and down hills, play with buddies, and swim in ponds.

My Golden Retriever’s Acupressure Session

Start by finding a comfortable location for both you and your dog. Take a few even breaths in and out while thinking about how you want to help your dog.

Rest one hand on the dog’s shoulder. Using the heel of your other hand, place it at the top of his head and gently stroke down his neck, just off the midline. (For smaller dogs, use your index and second fingers to stroke down the dogs neck.) Staying just to the side of the dog’s spine, continue to trace the path of the Bladder Meridian (see illustration, next page), going toward his tail and over his rump, then down the outside of his hind leg to the tip of his outside toe.

Repeat this intentional stroking procedure three times on each side of the dog following the Bladder Meridian. In the illustration (right), note that the meridian is located on both sides of the spine, so you should work on both sides of the dog.

Begin working on the points by resting one hand on your dog wherever it feels comfortable; this is your anchor hand. You can move it whenever you need to for comfort. You can use either the thumb or two-finger technique to perform the point work, depending on which is more comfortable for you and your dog.

• Thumb technique: Place the fleshy tip of your thumb directly on the acupressure point at a 90-degree angle and hold the point gently but with intent. Count to 30 before moving to the next acupoint.

• Two-finger technique: Put your middle finger on top of your index finger and then place your index finger at approximately a 90-degree angle to the point. Gently, but with intentional firmness, apply pressure directly on the acupoint and count to 30; then move to the next acupoint. The two-finger technique tends to work best for smaller animals and in places where it is difficult to reach.

Once you have finished stimulating the acupressure points on one side of your dog, be sure to hold the points on the other side. Doing both sides will ensure a balanced and more complete treatment.

Observe your dog’s reaction to the work on the points. “Energy releases” mean your session is working. Healthy energy releases include yawning, deep breathing, muscle twitches, release of air, deeper relaxation, licking, and softening of the eye. If your dog is overly reactive to a particular point or exhibits a pain reaction, skip it, and try that point again at a later session.

Complete your acupressure session by resting your hand comfortably on your dog’s shoulder just the way you did when starting the treatment. Place the heel of your other hand, or index and middle fingers, just off the midline of the top of his head and stoke down the Bladder Meridian: down his neck, over his back to his hindquarters, keeping your hand to the side of his spine, and down the outside of his leg to his outer toe. Your opposite hand can lightly trail along the same path as the working hand.

Repeat this procedure three times on each side of your dog. It can take 24 hours for the effects of an acupressure treatment to be fully experienced.

Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis are the authors of The Well-Connected Dog: A Guide to Canine Acupressure, Acu-Cat: A Guide to Feline Acupressure, and Equine Acupressure: A Working Manual. They founded Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute, which offers a practitioner certificate program and training programs worldwide, plus books, meridian charts, and videos.

Is Your Dog Overweight?

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By Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD This has become a nation of fat people – and fat dogs. Once again our dogs are mirroring us, no matter how bad that picture looks. It has been estimated that (depending on the survey and the way “obese” and “overweight” are defined) from about 25 percent to more than half of dogs seen by veterinarians are overweight or obese, and many practitioners feel that even these numbers grossly underestimate the true extent of the problem. For more perspective we can refer to numbers from a medical database maintained by Banfield, The Pet Hospital (a chain of 500-plus veterinary hospitals). Its data indicate that of the 3.5 million animals seen in the chain’s hospitals each year, almost 83 percent are categorized as exceeding their recommended weights. More worrisome, the obesity trend seems to be accelerating in recent years, much as it has in humans. The percentage of heavy dogs seen at Banfield increased from 49 percent to 83 percent from 1999 to 2004. The problem of defining obesity in dogs stems in part from the wide variance that exists in “normal” weights for different breeds. Most fat experts define an “overweight” dog as being 10 to 15 percent above the ideal weight for the breed; an animal is obese when he weighs 15 to 25 percent or more than the breed’s ideal weight. Another way to look at obesity is to look at it structurally rather than limit its definition to a set weight standard. Under this guideline, obesity can be defined as an increase in body weight beyond the limitation of its skeletal and physical requirements, resulting from an accumulation of excess body fat.

Whatever the definition and true statistics are for overweight and obese dogs, obesity is the most common nutritional disorder in dogs, and many practitioners feel it is today’s number one health danger for dogs. According to existing statistical evidence, the increased incidence of obesity (in both dogs and humans) has dramatically risen only over the past 10 years or so. Obesity is a, well, growing problem without an end in sight. And for fat people and fat dogs, this is not a good sign. It is interesting to note that it is not just dogs and their people that are overweight; overweight and obese cats are also a concern, and the Banfield survey mentioned above found that many exotic pets – birds, ferrets, and rabbits – are overweight too, again with the percentages of overweight animals increasing over the past few years. Being fat is not healthy Obesity in dogs may be associated with the following diseases: hypothyroidism, hyperadrenocorticism, diabetes mellitus, non-allergic skin conditions, arthritis, and lameness. Increased weight puts added stress on bones and the ligaments and tendons of joints, making them more susceptible to traumatic injury. Fat dogs don’t ambulate as well; they become couch potatoes, resulting in “stuck” joints that cause the dog to want to lie about even more – a cycle that ultimately leads to a painfully immobile animal. The immune system is compromised when an animal is overweight, making him more susceptible to infections and autoimmune diseases. Being overweight adversely affects the intricate balance of many, if not all, the body’s hormonal systems, resulting in any number of hormonally related diseases. Being overweight also adversely affects the skin; overweight animals typically have dull, lusterless skin that is in turn more susceptible to disease processes. No matter how you look at it, the obese animal has a poorer quality of life than his trimmer counterpart. He also actually has a shorter life. Purina Pet Institute’s 14-year study showed that dogs who ate 25 percent less food than their well-fed counterparts in the study lived longer – on average 13.5 years, compared to the average age of death of 12.2 years for their chubbier trial mates. In addition, the less-stuffed dogs had fewer signs of aging (grey muzzles, etc.) and a much lower incidence of hip dysplasia than did the overfed dogs. My dog, fat?! Determining this may take more than a good long look at the dog. In the first place, folks who are overweight tend not to see the fat in front of their eyes. Many studies have shown that most overweight folks don’t realize they are carrying excess baggage, and other studies indicate that folks who are overweight also tend to have overweight pets – and they don’t recognize the added pounds in either themselves or their pets. Another problem is that dog breeds have so many distinct body types it is often difficult to see through the normal body type into the fat of the matter. There is help, however, and it comes in two forms: a body condition score, developed by Purina, and the availability of an unbiased opinion. The body condition score (BCS) is a chart that provides a numerical ranking from 1/emaciated to 5/obese for dogs and cats. (1 = emaciated; 2 = thin; 3 = moderate; 4 = stout; 5 = obese.) The chart is easily accessible on the Internet, and it comes complete with examples of how the typical animal within each ranking would appear. Most veterinary clinics also have a copy of the chart for easy viewing. The best way to use the chart is to first compare your dog to the chart and then use your hands to feel for body condition. A fit dog should have an indented waist and the waist line should tuck-up slightly behind the ribs. (Remember that some breed standards may vary somewhat from this ideal.) Dogs tend to put on fat over their shoulders, ribs, and hips and around the tail head. You should be able to feel individual ribs and the space between each rib, and the shoulder blades, hips, and tail head should be readily palpable. Since folks tend not to notice just how fat they or their animals are, it’s probably a good idea to get an unbiased opinion – check with your vet, and ask for an honest fat appraisal. One caveat here: It may be best to have a thin and fit vet do the evaluating; out-of-shape vets might also tend to overlook fatness in their patients, and they will almost certainly minimize the importance of exercise for overall health. There are also several newer ways to evaluate the fatness of your dog that may prove to be more valid than the more subjective BCS. Leptin is a peptide hormone synthesized and secreted primarily by fatty tissue. Increased plasma levels of leptin correlates with body fat, probably better than either body weight or the BCS. There is now a simple blood assay for leptin that may prove useful for quantitative obesity assessment in small animals. Other methods of assessing body fat that are more hi-tech (and usually more expensive) include ultrasonography, bioelectric impedance (determines the amount of various body fluids as well as measuring leanness); DEXA scan (Dual Energy X-ray Absortiometry – determines bone mineral content and density, muscle mass, and percent of body fat), and the D2O dilution method (deuterium oxide dilution – determines total body water, a measurement of body fat). How obesity happens In dogs (and their people) obesity has become a health problem of epidemic proportions. The solution to the problem of fat dogs can actually be reduced to a simple equation (more exercise; fewer calories). But there are many instigating factors associated with obesity. A truly holistic approach to keeping your dog’s weight within its ideal range will consider these, along with an exercise program and a diet that provides the requisite number of calories for the amount of “work” the dog does. Specialists in bariatric medicine – the study of overweight, its causes, prevention, and treatment – feel that obesity may have numerous causes that can loosely be categorized into: environmental, behavioral, available foods, and biological components. So far, bariatric medicine is primarily a human specialty (one could predict that the specialty will soon develop in veterinary medicine), but many of its methods can, by extension, be applied to animals. In fact, some of the work that is used to help define and treat human obesity was originally done on laboratory animals, including dogs. There are at least two potential obesity-causing components of the environmental factors to consider: the dog’s social environment and his physical environment. The number one cause of obesity in our dogs is humans. “Over-love” is an important part of why our dogs are overeating; we want to make them happy! They beg, and we reinforce the behavior (making it more likely to happen again) by feeding them. The more they beg, the more we feed them, the more they beg – and the weight goes on. Giving our dogs treats – often as we wolf down a fatty, carb-loaded, nutritionally empty treat ourselves – has become an American way of life. There’s another social aspect to overeating: often, in multiple dog families, the presence of other dogs encourages some of them to overeat. Apparently the social aspect of being in a “pack” of dogs creates the competitive desire to wolf down the available food before the other dogs can get their fair share. A dog’s social environment is also an important consideration for how much he will weigh as an adult. Every practitioner will tell you that the fat dog often has a fat person at the other end of the leash. The way we humans have adapted our physical environment is also involved in our pet’s propensity to be fat. In a few short decades we have moved from a mostly rural population to a society where most of us live in cities or suburbs. Back when I started veterinary practice, the greatest majority of the dogs who visited my practice could be considered “free range” dogs – they were country dogs with several acres to roam over, or they had an in-town backyard to play in that would be considered huge by today’s standards. Today’s dogs are often enormous dogs, kept in small apartments, and their backyard “playground” is the size of a postage stamp. Further, the art of walking and chatting with the neighbors has been lost – and along with it, the evening walkabout that once upon a time gave the family dog some time to stretch out, run around, and rub noses with the other neighborhood dogs. Our own sedentary lifestyle and the way we have sardined ourselves into a living environment surrounded by concrete has made it difficult for us to help our dogs get the amount of daily exercise they need. Recent surveys show that even when folks know full well that they are overweight, that their dogs are overweight, and that exercise is the answer to the problem, they still will not take the time to walk their dogs the 150 minutes per week that is considered the minimal time necessary for maintaining body condition. There’s more: One theory says that pollutants in the air may be partly responsible for obesity. Organochlorines are fat-soluble chemicals that are almost ubiquitous in today’s environment – they are a continuing contaminant in our air, coming from a variety of sources including the outgassing of plastics (such as polychlorinated biphenyls, PCBs) and pesticides such as chlordane, aldrin, endrin, dioxin, dieldrin, and DDT/DDE. Their presence may be related to a biochemical process that results in weight gain in animals.

The organochlorine (OC) theory basically works like this: Obese animals have higher concentrations of OCs in their bodies. With weight loss, the blood concentration of OC increases as they are released from fatty tissue. An increased blood OC level has been associated with reduced fat oxidation, reduced resting metabolic rate, and reduced skeletal muscle oxidative capacity (reduction in the muscle’s ability to work and use up calories) – all these effects may be due to a decreased effectiveness of the thyroid gland. The end result is that as the animal loses weight, he releases OCs from fat reserves into the blood, which decreases his ability to metabolize carbohydrates effectively … which ultimately allows the weight that he has lost to return as weight gain. All this spells yet another reason to avoid pesticides whenever possible, and to avoid plastics if possible – for example, use glass or stainless steel feeding and watering bowls instead of plastic ones. Lots of contributors For eons the canine species roamed the forests and fields, hunting and scavenging for whatever morsel of food they could find. Being a carnivore is hard work, sometimes exciting in the extreme, and it takes a certain amount of skill to fill one’s belly with any regularity. For our pets, all that is gone now; the only effort and skill required is the ability to find the food dish. And the food dish is mostly filled with processed carbohydrates, not the meaty proteins a dog’s digestive system is adapted for. And so, our obese dogs have reason to blame the foods they eat for some of their problems. Many commercial pet foods, over the years, have increased dietary fat levels and improved the palatability of their foods. Most commercial foods simply contain too little meat-derived protein, too many grain-based carbohydrates, and too much fat. Fat adds to a food’s palatability and, in the case of kibble, is sprayed onto the extruded food so the dog will eat it. Just as their human counterparts, dogs vary widely in their level of physical activity and in the amount of food they want to eat each day. Since these behaviors are innate, the best we can do is to notice them and then offer compensatory actions to counteract their tendency to create an overweight dog. For instance, most Border Collies will probably not need to be encouraged to exercise more; they tend to be hyperactive enough. A pooch who wants to sleep all day, however, may need a little encouragement to get into his daily walk. You may be able to appease the dog who is a perpetual beggar by feeding him very small amounts of food several times a day, being sure that the total amount of food stays within the recommended amount of calories for the dog’s ideal weight. Again, like their human counterpoints, dogs have a wide range of resting metabolic rates. Those with a high metabolic rate can seemingly eat anything and everything and never get fat; the animal saddled with a low metabolic rate can literally look at food and get fat. The key is to recognize these differences and to compensate for the dog with the low metabolic rate by limiting his daily food intake and being certain he is getting enough exercise. • Spaying and neutering: Both of these two operations have an effect on the animal’s potential for future weight gain. Information (from Ohio State University) indicates that when an animal is spayed or neutered, his or her energy needs decrease by about 25 percent. Other factors that add to a spayed or neutered animal’s propensity for weight gain include: a) lack of roaming – males, especially, don’t roam as much after neutering; b) no expenditure of energy for reproduction, gestation, and lactation; and c) perhaps the most important, an owner who has demonstrated his devotion to the dog by having him or her neutered or spayed; owners who care may also be the type who simply must feed a begging dog treats throughout the day. The bottom line here is that spayed or neutered animals will not get fat just because they lack their gonads. True, they will likely need fewer calories, after the surgery – but so long as they are fed foods that provide them with some caloric reduction, and so long as they continue to exercise adequately, they will not gain weight. • The genetic hypothesis: Some breeds of dogs, including Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Cairn Terriers, Basset Hounds, Shetland Sheepdogs, Dachshunds, and Beagles tend to be more prone to obesity. While the genetic hypothesis has merit, not all dogs with genetic susceptibility to obesity become overweight, and any individual of any breed of dog or mutt will become obese if he is fed too much for the energy he expends. It should also be noted that in humans there have been several gene-loci identified as associated with obesity, and each of these loci has in turn several additional, associated genes that have been identified as contributing to the overall propensity for the individual to be obese. In other words, genes may be important, but trying to find the one that is the contributor to obesity is like searching for one particular flake of Parmesan in the spaghetti sauce. • Age: As an animal ages, his metabolism slows, and often creaky joints and the simple lack of a burning desire to chase all things interesting can lead to a diminished expenditure of calories. The result can be a gradual increase in weight – unless we watch the calories and decrease them as the animal ages. • Stress: Chronic stress can have a huge impact on a dog’s weight. Stress causes the adrenals to secrete excess amounts of glucocorticoids that alter glucose metabolism, which (via a complex of enzymatic and hormonal reactions) ultimately leads to an accumulation of body fat. In addition, stress can lead to alterations in the homeostatic systems of the body to the extent that other diseases occur. • Diseases: It’s been estimated that diseases account for less than five percent of the total number of cases of obesity in humans, and a like percentage probably occurs in dogs. In reality, it is often impossible to determine which comes first: the disease causing the obesity, or the obesity precipitating the disease. Diseases that may be associated with obesity in dogs include: hypothyroidism, Cushing’s (hyperadrenocorticism), diabetes, insulinoma (tumor of the insulin-secreting cells of the pancreas), and diseases of the pituitary. The “cure” As you’d expect whenever you have a disease process that counts so many patients, there are a plethora of “cures” for obesity on the market. Seemingly, humans will try anything – from crazy diet plans, to stapling their stomachs, to filling themselves with non-nutrients to create a sense of satiety. Drugs abound: drugs to increase metabolism (amphetamines and others); drugs to stop the absorption of fats; drugs to fool the brain into thinking the belly is full or into thinking its caloric needs have been met, and on and on. None of these high-tech solutions to obesity have worked long-term in humans or animals – unless the intervention is coupled with long-term social and behavioral modification and most importantly unless an adequate amount of weekly exercise (approximately 150 minutes per week) is included in the program. There are several diet foods available in today’s marketplace, and these often combine a lowered amount of carbohydrate, low fat (5 to 8 percent dry matter basis), and a food source with increased levels of fiber (10 to 25 percent dry matter basis). A reducing diet should begin with a goal that recognizes the animal’s ideal weight compared to the standard for its breed or type. A program of gradual weight reduction – somewhere between 3 to 5 percent of body weight per week initially and about 1 percent of body weight per week as the dog nears ideal weight. The amount of weekly weight loss to shoot for will depend on the current weight of the animal, his age, and general health. To achieve this weight reduction, the diet should provide enough food to meet about 50 to 70 percent of the requirements for the animal’s ideal or normal weight. Instead of one or two daily meals, small meals may be fed frequently during the day, and snacks and table foods should be eliminated entirely. The burden of resisting a constantly begging dog can be lessened by feeding small amounts (1 tablespoon or so) several times a day and carefully monitoring future food allotments once the desired body weight is attained. It may be best to have a veterinarian monitor the animal’s progress on a monthly basis – again because folks are often too close to their animals to see that they are overweight, and it can be difficult for many of us to create an environment of tough love. One study, for example, showed that caretakers who were allowed to institute a diet program on their own were unsuccessful (probably too many treats given to the begging dogs on the side); whereas the same diet, monitored by a veterinarian, produced the expected weight loss during the time frame of the trial. There is evidence that acupuncture may be effective for helping to reduce weight. Acupuncture is evidently extensively used to aid weight reduction in China; it operates by enhancing the digestive system, thus making nutrients more bioavailable and quenching the desire to overeat. Remember, too, that acupuncture and chiropractic will help keep your dog’s joints “oiled,” and thus make it easier for him to get out and about every day. Some herbs have also shown some promise for helping an animal reduce its weight – when they are combined with a long-term program of behavioral modification and exercise. Due to the recent interest in an easy-fix for fatness, the list of weight-reducing herbs has become endless, but some of the following may be helpful: aloe vera, astragalus, chickweed, dandelion, fennel, fenugreek, green tea, plantain or psyllium, red pepper, and Siberian ginseng. Check with an experienced herbalist for dosages and methods of use for these herbs. One of the more promising of the weight-loss supplements for dogs appears to be DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone), although its popularity for weight reduction in dogs has come as the result of one study only. Animals in this study were fed a high-fiber, low fat diet, with half of them receiving high doses of DHEA. All dogs on the study lost weight, but the dogs fed DHEA lost almost twice as much – 10 percent vs 5.5 percent. Several years ago DHEA was a popular human supplement, used as the cure-all for aging, among other things, but it went out of favor when it was discovered it also had some adverse side effects. So, to my way of thinking, the jury’s not yet out on DHEA for dogs; check with your holistic vet. Simple, if you can do it Today’s sophisticated science often overwhelms common sense and rational thinking, and thus we have come up with a variety of reasons to explain why our dogs (and ourselves) are getting progressively fatter. While some of these explanations can be used to help prevent obesity in predisposed animals, most don’t offer us much more than an excuse for feeding our dogs unhealthy foods or for not exercising adequately. The real answer to the problem is to feed fewer calories, especially empty calories, and to exercise more. Couple this with an environment that values fitness and a life-style that enhances playful interaction with other critters (four-legged and two-legged) and you have all the prescription you and your dog need for staying fit and trim. -Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

New Information about Wolbachia may Change Heartworm Treatment

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For some time, biologists have been aware of and studied an organism called Wolbachia that lives symbiotically inside heartworms. But recently, study of this microscopic creature has given researchers new ideas about how to combat its host (the heartworm) to benefit its host, the dog.

Wolbachia is a genus of rickettsial organisms, a microorganism positioned somewhere between viruses and true bacteria. Like viruses, they grow only in living cells, but like bacteria, they are vulnerable to antibiotics. Bacteria in the Rickettsia genus are carried as intracellular parasites inside a number of what we have always thought of as tiny parasites (such as ticks, fleas, and lice). Rocky Mountain spotted fever is a disease caused by a rickettsial organism carried inside ticks.

Recent studies indicate some of the adverse effects of both heartworm infection and heartworm treatment, including inflammation, embolism, and allergic reaction, may actually be due to the presence of Wolbachia inside the heartworms, in addition to the heartworms themselves. Researchers have learned that treating a heartworm-infected dog with doxycycline for 30 days to kill the Wolbachia parasite weakens the heartworms and makes them unable to reproduce, and greatly reduces the chance of adverse reaction during heartworm treatment.

The takeaway message? Any dog that is currently infected with heartworms should be treated with doxycycline for 30 days. If the infected dog will be treated with Immiticide (fast-kill method), it is best to give the doxycycline prior to beginning Immiticide treatment. This should make the treatment much safer, by greatly reducing the potential for embolism and allergic reaction to the death of the worms. There may also be benefit in continuing to give doxycycline during treatment.

Doxycycline should also be given to dogs that are being treated with monthly Heartgard (slow-kill method) or any type of alternative heartworm treatment method, as it will weaken the heartworms, prevent them from reproducing, and reduce the chance of adverse effects caused by the heartworm infection itself, and by the worms dying.

It appears unlikely that the Wolbachia parasite persists in the body after the heartworms have been cleared, though researchers do not know for certain at this time. To be safe, it may be best to give doxycycline for 30 days to any dogs that have completed heartworm treatment in the past, to clear any possible remaining Wolbachia.

Because Wolbachia is a rickettsial organism, similar to those that cause tick disease, it may be advisable to use the higher dose of doxycycline that is recommended for treatment of tick disease, which is 10 mg/kg, twice a day.

Veterinarians may contact Merial, the manufacturer of Immiticide, for more information on this topic. For updates, see www.dogaware.com/heartworm.html.

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