Thanks for including Safe Pain Relief in your May 2006 issue, about our study on arthritic dogs being treated with DGP (Dog-Gone Pain). As American BioSciences DGP product manager, I have personally spoken to many of your subscribers since the article appeared and am amazed, but not surprised, at how knowledgeable they are.
I would like the opportunity to respond to some of the letters you published in the June 2006 issue. I certainly appreciate caution when choosing a product that has a proprietary blend of ingredients. However, it can be very difficult for natural health product manufacturers to protect their formulations from copycat products. We use the designation proprietary blend on our label to keep our formulation confidential. We realize the importance for veterinarians to have complete knowledge of the ingredients, therefore all DGP ingredients are, and always have been, divulged to licensed vets or healthcare professionals who agree to maintain confidentiality.
Further, while there is substantial evidence (including results reported in the May issue) that DGP is safe and effective, American BioSciences has always prided itself on the science behind its products. With that said we are in the process of designing a much larger study to be conducted in a university setting. When this study is complete, you and your readers will be the first to know the results.
Stephanie Johnson,
American BioSciences
Blauvelt, NY
———-
I have been a subscriber to WDJ for more years than I can remember and have anticipated every issue. Your information and advice support my conviction that conventional medicines are in general unsafe and to be used only over the short term when there is no alternative.
My Lab-mix companion, Rebecca, almost 12 years old, has had ligament and joint problems. We endured two TPLOs on her hind legs and the subsequent removal of the plate in one. Though she is a happy dog and doing well, I often wonder just how much discomfort she is really in due to her slowed activity patterns and resulting limp when she overextends her enthusiasm with people and other dogs. Consequently your article on DGP immediately caught my attention. The glucosamine, MSM, Omega 3, and tumeric, in addition to other supplements that she has taken for many years, have helped but not totally alleviated her discomfort.
I placed an order for DGP through The Harmony Company. On the same day the product arrived I saw the follow-up letters you printed in the June issue. I usually eschew canine products for the reasons outlined questionable research, lack of precise ingredients, failure to adjust formulas in light of new information.
I immediately called American BioSciences and spoke to the product manager for DGP, Stephanie Johnson. I was impressed by her enthusiasm and the substance of her support. The thought of someone suggesting that DGP could work because it contains an undisclosed NSAID when in fact so much care went into the quality and production of the product without the opportunity of counterargument in the same issue was quite disturbing. It would have been nice to hear her argument before pushing my panic button. We wondered how many people will not use DGP when it could help without calling her as I did.
We spent a lot of time on the phone, and went over all the other supplements that I give Rebecca. On Johnsons advice I am going to discontinue, for the time being, glucosamine, MSM, and vitamin C because of the anticoagulant compounding of these supplements with DGP. Johnsons concern speaks volumes.
One thing more. Evidence-based medicine is often a chimera tainted with ego, politics, and economic concerns. Ill take homegrown anytime. I hope you are not in your room too long.
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Writing this column is always the last thing I do before sending an issue of WDJ to press. At this moment, I’m 24 hours away from taking my desk apart and loading it and my computer – the very last things in my former home and home-based office – into my car for the trip north to my new home-based office. With my attention (and family!) scattered all over the state, please forgive the news-dispatch style of this installment.
• You may start to see products on pet store shelves boasting a new label that looks like this:
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Companies whose products we have tested and/or reviewed favorably have long lobbied for a way to publicize those good reviews – and to distinguish themselves from companies who tell consumers, falsely, that something is WDJ-approved. We’ve developed an official “seal of approval” that recipients of our positive reviews can use to promote their products. Only this seal is the real deal; if it doesn’t look like this, check your back issues.
• We love you, Chicago! For the third year in a row, the Chicago Tribune has named WDJ to its list of Top 50 Magazines. “In ranking the magazines every year, we consider whether they’re interesting, whether they have great journalism, but most importantly, whether they are successful in fulfilling their mission and accomplish what they set out to do,” said Tim Bannon, editor of Chicago Tribune’s Tempo section. We’re so pleased to be counted among publications that meet that description.
• Check out the New York Times article “Modern Love: What Shamu Taught Me About a Happy Marriage,” published on June 25 (and available online at www.nytimes.com). It’s an excerpt from author Amy Sutherland’s new book, Kicked, Bitten and Scratched: Life and Lessons at the Premier School for Exotic Animal Trainers. In it, Sutherland discusses training her husband with modern behavior-altering techniques such as ignoring unwanted behavior and rewarding desired behavior – something, ahem! – that WDJ has been talking about for more than nine years. Glad to see the rest of the world catching up!
• There are some terrific articles in this issue. In our recent interview with Dr. Susan Wynn (“Building Credibility,” June 2006), the holistic veterinarian mentioned that she was very excited about recent studies touting the benefits of probiotics for dogs. In “Probing Probiotics,” CJ Puotinen offers a detailed guide to the uses and types of probiotics for dogs. Two articles on varying treatments for treating wounds and surgical incisions may come in handy this summer for many active dogs and their concerned owners. Pat Miller teaches us how men and women can work together best to train the family dog. And Dr. Randy Kidd offers compelling reasons to do what you already know you need to do: get out there and walk your dog more frequently and longer. Enjoy!
The San Francisco Bay Area, where Ive lived for the past 10-plus years, just might be the center of the holistic dog-care world. You are more likely to see dogs being walked wearing head halters or front-clip harnesses than choke chains. People trade information about the best holistic veterinarians in the area not just clues on how to find the only one in a five-county area. The pet supply stores carry a dozen different brands of top-quality dog foods, and raw frozen diets, too. Most of the health foods stores have pet care sections. Positive puppy socialization classes and daycare facilities abound.
Things are about to get interesting for me, since Im sort of moving back in time in terms of dog training and care. This month, right after I ship this issue to the printer, Im packing up both my home and my home-based office of WDJ and moving 150 miles to the north and east. Oroville is a small northern California town said to contain about 13,000 people; I suspect they have to reach pretty far outside the city limits to come up with a total that high.
My dad lives about 15 miles out of town, and Im looking forward to being close to him. Im also really looking forward to life in a much quieter town. Quieter, at least, except for the barking dogs! Thats going to take some getting used to (and I suspect I may get involved in a community dog-care education project).
Where I live now, many of my neighbors have a dog; some have two. All of the dogs in my immediate neighborhood spend most of their times indoors when they are not being walked or hanging out with their owners in the yard. But in Oroville, Ive noticed, there are many dogs who seem to live outdoors full time, in yards and chained to trees or porches. Lots of yards contain several dogs and lots of dogs arent contained in any way, shape, or form at all! Ive never before been in a town where you can spot several loose dogs in any given hour. On one memorable walk, as we scoped out available real estate, my husband and I were confronted on a sidewalk outside a school by a huge, growling, collarless St. Bernard, who was being egged on by a tiny, greasy, collarless Chihuahua-mix. As I said before, its going to be interesting.
Ill still spend a lot of time in the Bay Area; so many of WDJs models (canine and human) and friends are here. And I couldnt do what I do without the regular help and support of my holistic vet (Dr. Jenny Taylor, of Creature Comfort Holistic Veterinary Center) and famed positive trainer Sandi Thompson, who has taught thousands of puppy training classes in the Berkeley area.
Please note WDJs new editorial office addresses (PO Box 1349, Oroville, CA 95965 and 1655 Robinson Street, Oroville, CA 95965). This is the place to send letters to the editor (me!), questions about articles, and product information and samples. As always, inquiries about subscriptions (such as magazines not received, problems with payments, gift subscriptions) should be directed to the subscription services department. Questions about WDJs website, online access, and back issues should be directed to our customer service department in Connecticut.
Ten years ago, my dog Piglet woke me in the middle of the night, trembling violently and utterly terrified. It took me hours to track the source of her panic to a barely audible high-pitched beep that sounded once every two minutes, coming from a smoke alarm’s low battery indicator.
Thus began Piglet’s long history of noise phobias. Below is the story of my struggle to help her cope with these phobias and, eventually, generalized anxiety disorder. While I would urge anyone dealing with anxiety issues to first try natural methods of treatment, it is important to know there are medications that can offer your dog quality of life that may not be obtainable in any other way.
A brief history
For years, Piglet reacted only to high-pitched beeping noises, such as cell phones, pagers, the microwave oven, the theme from The Twilight Zone, etc. I tried many natural treatments, including T-Touch, an Anxiety Wrap, melatonin, flower remedies, dog appeasing pheromone (DAP) diffusers, counter-conditioning (scary noise = treat), and just about everything else I heard of that can help dogs with anxiety and phobias. Several of these helped a little, but none solved the problem. We dealt with her issues mostly by trying to avoid “scary noises,” including giving up some of my favorite TV shows!
Piglet was normally a confident dog, cautious with people but not fearful, comfortable with other dogs, eager to explore new places. When she was frightened by beeping sounds, she would pant, pace, tremble, try to hide, dig compulsively both indoors and out (to the point of making her nails bleed), and come to me for attention and comfort, though comforting her did not help. I knew enough not to reinforce her attention-seeking behaviors, but I did try various things, such as distracting her with clicker training (which would work only as long as I could keep it up, then she would go right back to her fearful behaviors), giving long, slow strokes, just putting my arm around her, sitting with her while completely ignoring her; nothing made any difference.
As we could avoid “scary noises” most of the time, her anxiety attacks were not frequent and she was able to live with her phobias pretty well.
This began to change three years ago, when my next-door neighbors completely rebuilt their house. We were out for a walk one day, soon after construction had started, when a stump digger close to us backfired loudly just as we were passing. After that, Piglet became reactive to all of the construction sounds from next door, which gradually generalized to any loud noise she heard while on our walks.
Sounds that had never before bothered her, such as lawnmowers, leaf blowers, loud trucks, and even the sound of other dogs barking, now frightened her. Most of our walks were spent trying to avoid these noises, and when she did hear them, she wanted to turn around and go home.
Eventually, Piglet was startled on a walk by a loud chirping noise from a ground squirrel. After that, she began waking at dawn, reacting to the sound of birds in my yard. Soon she was spending most of the night awake, pacing, panting, unable to rest and pawing at me to get up as well. Her noise phobias had escalated to generalized anxiety disorder (GAD). Neither of us could live like this. We had to find something to help.
Types of anxiety medications
There are several types of anti-anxiety medications (anxiolytics). Benzodiazepines are fast-acting and can be used on an as-needed basis, or combined with longer-acting drugs for a quicker response and when a little more help is needed. Tricyclic antidepressants (TCAs), selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs), and azapirones must be given continuously, and require several weeks to reach full effectiveness. Dogs with frequent or severe anxiety will benefit from these longer-acting drugs to decrease overall anxiety and reactivity.
All of these are prescription medications. It is important that you work closely with your veterinarian, or with a veterinary behaviorist, when using anxiolytic drugs. It is also important to do behavior modification as well, as drugs alone will rarely resolve a severe anxiety problem by themselves, just as behavior modification alone often will not work without drugs. A dog behaviorist (veterinary or otherwise) can help you with this.
Following is a summary of the different types of anti-anxiety drugs, what they are commonly used for, and what you need to know before using them. With the exception of clomipramine, the FDA has not approved the use of these drugs in dogs, as the drug companies have not submitted the necessary research. However, many of these drugs were tested on animals before use in humans, and they have been used off-label by many vets.
I’ve found Plumb’s Veterinary Drug Handbook to have the most current information on drug dosages and interactions. Some of the following is taken from that source, and some from various papers written by noted veterinary behaviorist Dr. Karen Overall and other veterinarians.
Benzodiazepines (BZs)
Benzodiazepines are fast-acting drugs that can be used on an as-needed basis for dogs that need periodic help with anxiety, such as those afraid of thunder or fireworks. They can also be used in combination with TCAs or SSRIs when first starting treatment to hasten the effects, or on an ongoing basis, either regularly or as needed to prevent or lessen acute anxiety episodes. For example, one might use a benzodiazepine with tricyclic antidepressants for a dog suffering from separation anxiety with a panic component.
The effects of BZs do not last very long, usually only a few hours. When used continuously, they are addictive (create physical dependency).
Benzodiazepines commonly used with dogs include alprazolam (Xanax), clonazepam (Klonopin), and diazepam (Valium). These drugs are used to treat anxiety, noise phobias (including thunder phobia), panic attacks, and separation anxiety. They should be used with caution in fear-aggressive dogs, as they may lower fear-based inhibition and increase the likelihood of the dog biting.
Their safety range is very wide, and they can be combined with most other medications, including TCAs and SSRIs, as well as with pain medications such as tramadol. They can also be used together (with dosage of each reduced). As with all anti-anxiety medications, you should start with a low dose and increase only as needed. “The key to treatment for noise phobias and panic is to give the benzodiazepines early and often,” says Dr. Overall.
Alprazolam is Dr. Overall’s drug of choice for dogs with storm and noise phobias and dogs who panic. It takes effect very quickly, within 20 minutes of being given, and does not tend to cause sedation. Alprazolam has some effect if given after the dog becomes anxious, but it works far better if given ahead of time. For dogs with thunder phobia, it should be given whenever a storm is expected, rather than waiting until it arrives, though more can be given at that time, if needed. The recommended dosage range is quite wide, with the highest dose being 10 times the lowest dose.
Clonazepam is used less frequently than alprazolam, as it takes a little longer to be effective, but it is also longer-lasting. There are two recommended dosage levels for clonazepam: one for seizure control, and one for anxiety. It is important to be aware of this, as the dosage for seizure control is much higher than that used for anxiety. I was reassured to realize how high a dose could be given without being dangerous.
Diazepam is more sedating than the other drugs in this class, and may have less anxiolytic effect, so it is generally not recommended for anxiety. It is the shortest-acting of this drug class in dogs, and does not take effect as quickly.
In Piglet’s case, benzodiazepines were a lifesaver. I found an article by Dr. Overall that discussed the use of alprazolam for noise phobias (see “References” sidebar). I started Piglet at 0.25 mg (0.017 mg/kg), but that had little effect, so I went to 0.50 mg (0.03 mg/kg), which did help. I started by giving Piglet this dosage of alprazolam whenever she would wake me up, which was generally a couple of hours after we went to sleep. She would usually settle down within an hour after getting the medication. It helped, but wasn’t enough.
My vet then suggested that I give an increased dosage of alprazolam at bedtime, before Piglet became anxious. Rather than giving her 0.5 mg (barely enough to help) after she had awakened me with her anxious behavior, I began giving her 1 mg (0.07 mg/kg) at bedtime. This made a huge difference. The alprazolam did not sedate Piglet; it just relaxed her enough to be able to sleep, without anxiety waking her up during the night. By giving it to her before she became anxious, she was able to sleep through most of the night.
After consulting with a veterinary behaviorist, I started giving Piglet 1 mg alprazolam every eight hours, to try to prevent her from becoming anxious. Her anxiety was under control, but she seemed to be on something of a roller coaster, becoming more reactive each hour after the alprazolam was given. I generally had to get up once during the night to give her a dose, as it was too short-acting for her to be able to make it all the way through the night without waking and becoming anxious.
I decided to switch to clonazepam, as its effects last longer. Because the recommended dosage range of clonazepam for anxiety in dogs is similar to that for alprazolam, I tried giving Piglet the same dosage (1 mg), but quickly found out that was not enough. I increased the dosage to 2 mg (0.13 mg/kg), still well within the recommended range. I gave this amount twice a day, at bedtime and after breakfast. With clonazepam, Piglet was able to sleep through the whole night.
Azapirones
There is only one drug in this class used with dogs: buspirone (BuSpar). Buspirone is used to treat cats for inappropriate urination, but is now also being used to treat dogs for phobias and other anxiety disorders, including fear aggression, especially if accompanied by signs of poor socialization. It is not helpful for panic disorders, but is effective for more generalized anxiety.
Because buspirone has few side effects and does not cause sedation, it is an excellent first choice for treating dogs with aggression or anxiety that is not too severe. It must be given continuously for at least four to six weeks in order to determine whether or not it will help. Again, it’s best to start at a low dose and increase if needed. Buspirone can be combined with TCAs or SSRIs, though it is questionable whether this helps or not.
I learned about buspirone from Amy Cook, a dog trainer in Oakland, California, who has a special interest in fearful dogs. Amy has dealt with fear and anxiety in many dogs, including two of her own, and has learned a lot about the medications used for treatment.
Buspirone helped a number of Amy’s clients, as well as the dog of a colleague that had developed noise phobias and was unable to continue her flyball participation because of it. That dog responded wonderfully to Buspirone and was able to return to her flyball team with the help of this medication.
We started Piglet on a low dose (10 mg, or 0.7 mg/kg) twice a day for a month, and then increased to 15 mg (1 mg/kg) twice a day for another month. Unfortunately, it did not help, and I weaned her off it.
Tricyclic antidepressants (TCAs)
Tricyclic antidepressants are used with dogs to treat anxiety, panic, phobias, and obsessive compulsive disorders, such as shadow chasing and lick granulomas. They are also used to treat aggression that is caused by underlying anxiety.
The tricyclic antidepressants most commonly used with dogs are amitriptyline (Elavil) and clomipramine (Clomicalm). The general recommendation is to start with a low dose, then increase every two weeks as needed. These drugs do not take effect immediately, and several weeks’ treatment may be needed before their effectiveness can be fully ascertained.
The most common side effect of TCAs is sedation. Anorexia (loss of appetite) is also common, but usually goes away after a few days. Giving with food and dividing the dosage between meals may decrease gastric side effects.
My own vet prefers to use amitriptyline as a first choice when treating anxiety, not because it’s the most effective drug, but because it is inexpensive and he feels it is safer than clomipramine.
Amitriptyline’s most common side effects are dry mouth and sedation. It is well suited to dogs with relatively mild anxiety disorders, including anxiety-related aggression and submissive urination. It is not useful for compulsive disorders.
Amitriptyline can relieve chronic pain, and also has some action as an antihistamine.
Clomipramine is best suited for situations involving anxiety, including separation anxiety, as opposed to reactivity. Clomi-pramine is also very effective at treating compulsive disorders.
TCAs can cause bone marrow suppression. It’s important to do blood work a couple of weeks after starting this drug (as well as before, for older dogs), then monitor every six months to a year thereafter.
I tried giving Piglet amitriptyline for her noise phobia before she developed generalized anxiety disorder. With my veterinarian’s guidance, I started Piglet on 25 mg (1.7 mg/kg) twice a day, then increased it to a very high dosage of 25 mg three times a day after a month.
Piglet tolerated the drug very well, and she did not have problems with sedation or other side effects. However, as time went on, I noticed no improvement in her behavior, even after we increased the dose, so I weaned her off it.
After Piglet’s anxiety worsened, my vet and I decided to try clomipramine (Clomi-calm). We started at 20 mg (1.3 mg/kg) twice a day. After two weeks, I increased to 25 mg (1.7 mg/kg) twice a day. Again, Piglet tolerated it well; she had no stomach upset, and her blood work was normal after two weeks. She was on clomipramine for a total of only three weeks before I began weaning her off, as I did not feel it was helping, but in retrospect, I realize that she got much worse when I weaned her off the drug. It is very important not to give up too soon when giving TCAs or SSRIs.
Selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs)
SSRIs are antidepressants and anxiolytics, used to treat aggression, separation anxiety, generalized anxiety, panic disorders, and obsessive-compulsive behaviors. SSRIs are stronger, more effective, and longer-acting than TCAs, and may take longer to fully assess their effects. They are considered safer than TCAs, but they can have side effects, including gastric upset and sedation.
It is important to do blood work before starting, especially for older dogs, and monitor periodically after that. SSRIs can be combined with TCAs using low-end doses of each, which may help them take effect faster and lessen the chances of side effects.
Fluoxetine (Prozac) is the most commonly used SSRI with dogs, and has the longest half-life in people. Others include sertraline (Zoloft) and paroxetine (Paxil), all with similar potential side effects, though paroxetine is more difficult to wean off and may have a shorter half-life, leading to more variation in its effects.
The usual methodology is to start with a low dosage, and then increase if no improvement is seen after three to four weeks. Treatment must continue for at least six to eight weeks before you can know for sure whether it helps.
Fluoxetine is used to treat aggression, obsessive-compulsive disorders, separation anxiety, and panic and avoidance disorders, including post-traumatic stress disorder. Fluoxetine works well for conditions involving reactivity, including some forms of aggression. Paroxetine is used to treat depression, social anxiety, and agitation associated with depression. Sertraline is useful particularly for generalized anxiety and panic disorder.
After consulting with the veterinary behaviorist, we started Piglet on fluoxetine, at a low dose of 10 mg (0.7 mg/kg) once a day, and then increased to 15 mg (1 mg/kg) after two weeks.
Piglet did have some loss of appetite with this medication. Fortunately, after about a week, this problem went away. It also seemed to sedate her for the first couple of days, but she was normal after that. Her blood work was fine when we rechecked it a couple of weeks after starting the drug.
The fluoxetine helped, but I still felt that she was on edge and overly reactive.
I decided to make one further change and switch her to sertraline instead of fluoxetine. Sertraline is long-acting, similar to fluoxetine, which is desirable. I did discover that it is much more expensive, as there was no generic available (a generic version is expected to be released sometime in 2006). We started Piglet on a once-a-day dose of 25 mg (1.67 mg/kg).
Other factors influencing anxiety: chronic pain
Shortly after switching her to sertraline, Piglet underwent surgery to remove a broken carnassial (the largest tooth in the mouth), as well as a small tumor I had discovered between her toes. Because many medications can be dangerous to combine with SSRIs or TCAs, I had to be careful what pain medication was used.
I wanted to use tramadol, an effective prescription pain reliever, but had seen warnings about combining it with SSRIs, due to the risk of serotonin syndrome, though I later learned that this could be done with caution.
Instead, my vet suggested using Buprenex (buprenorphine), which is put into the cheek pouch and absorbed through the mucosal membranes (this works very well with cats; they don’t really know how well it works for dogs).
After she recovered from surgery, Piglet’s anxiety level reduced. In fact, she became almost normal again. I believe that she must have been experiencing some chronic pain that lowered her anxiety threshold. Although I know for certain that the tooth had just broken, it’s possible it was cracked and painful for a while before it was removed; she had stopped being an avid chewer some time before that, although my vet could find nothing wrong with her teeth. I also think that the small tumor in her foot may have been bothering her for a long time, though I was unaware of it.
For the next few months after the surgery, Piglet did not have a single anxiety attack. She had a few minor episodes, where she became restless, with some pacing and attention-seeking behaviors, but no panting, trying to hide, waking me up at night, etc. These episodes did not last very long, usually only about 20 to 30 minutes, before she was able to settle down again. At this time, I was giving her sertraline (25 mg once a day) and clonazepam (2 mg, twice a day).
Setback
Suddenly, Piglet became progressively worse over several days, culminating in a full-blown anxiety attack; I don’t know what caused it. I first suspected a defective batch of clonazepam, which I had just refilled, but when I switched to the name-brand Klonopin, she continued to have problems.
I spent another couple of months trying different things. I took her off Metacam (a prescription arthritis pain reliever), thinking that it might be upsetting her stomach, but that didn’t help. I put her back on Metacam and added tramadol, in case pain was still contributing to her anxiety, but that also did not help. She was not as bad as she had been originally, but she was still having full-blown anxiety attacks periodically, and was on edge most of the time.
After discussion with my veterinarian and veterinary behaviorist, we increased Piglet’s clonazepam to 3 mg (0.2 mg/kg), on the high end of the range for anxiety, but still well below the dosage used for seizures. This helped some, but not enough.
I finally decided to increase her SSRIs, though both my vet and the veterinary behaviorist were concerned with this. Because fluoxetine (Prozac) is considered to be two-and-a-half times as effective as sertraline (Zoloft) at the same dosage level in humans, but the dosage ranges given for dogs are similar, I twice tried to switch Piglet from sertraline to fluoxetine, but both times she got much worse and I switched her back. I then increased her sertraline dosage from 25 mg to 37.5 mg (2.5 mg/kg) once a day. Within a few days, she was back to normal.
That was over three months ago, and she has continued to do great since. On the rare occasion that she starts showing signs of anxiety, or if I have to leave her alone for too long, I give her melatonin (3 mg) plus a very small dose of alprazolam (0.25 mg). I am in the process of very slowly reducing her clonazepam dosage (it is addictive, so I am making only small changes every two weeks), and she is continuing to do well with the reduced dosage.
Don’t stop too soon
In hindsight, I believe that the SSRIs (fluoxetine and sertraline) and the TCAs (particularly clomipramine) helped more than I realized at first. Because they must be given for a few weeks before they reach full effectiveness, and because Piglet needed the addition of benzodiazepines, which are quicker-acting, I discounted the effect of the other medications.
I no longer question the impact of these slower-acting drugs. I would encourage anyone who tries TCAs, SSRIs, or buspirone to not give up too soon, keep using them for at least one to two months and preferably longer, before deciding that they’re not working and trying something else. If needed, you can combine them with the quicker-acting benzodiazepines to get some relief while waiting for the other drugs to take effect.
Piglet enjoys her walks and explores new places again, and no longer avoids areas where she might hear loud noises. Although they still disturb her a little, she doesn’t try to head for home when she hears them. She sleeps through the night peacefully and is relaxed during the day, even playful again. She is more interested in everything. It’s a small miracle, at her age (she is now 14), to see such improvement.
Although only the benzodiazepines are physically addictive, it is important to wean off all anti-anxiety medications slowly, reducing dosage gradually every one to two weeks, rather than stopping abruptly. Stopping SSRIs and TCAs too quickly can result in symptoms returning. Stopping benzodiazepines too quickly can lead to seizures; they must be weaned slowly as they create physical dependence.
Final (I hope!) notes
Piglet’s current drug regimen consists of sertraline (37.5 mg/day) and clonazepam (2 mg twice a day, and decreasing).
I have learned that when you find medications that work, you need to continue to give them for some time. A dog must be treated with SSRIs or TCAs for a minimum of three to five weeks before you are able to assess the effects; then, you must maintain treatment until all the dog’s symptoms are gone or are at the same low, consistent level, for at least another one to two months. Treatment should be continued after that for at least as long as it took to achieve that level, before even beginning to think about weaning them off. Total length of treatment should be a minimum of four to six months.
One of the mistakes I made was always trying to give the minimal drugs possible; every time I would see improvement, I would try to reduce the amount of drugs she was getting, and then she would get worse again. I have learned that it takes time to overcome anxiety disorders; they do not go away overnight.
If needed, I am prepared to keep Piglet on these drugs for the rest of her life. She is tolerating them well, with no side effects and continued normal blood work, and the improvement in her quality of life is so dramatic that I no longer fear having her on them. I have come to realize that there is no harm in relying on drugs when they are needed.
In hindsight, I wish I had tried using alprazolam for our walks when Piglet’s reaction to outside noises first escalated; I think she would not have gotten so bad if I had treated the problem early. I would never recommend anxiety drugs as a first choice, before trying to address anxiety with natural methods, but when a dog’s quality of life is at stake, the drugs can perform miracles. They have given Piglet back her life, and for that I am grateful.
-Mary Straus does research on canine health and nutrition topics as an avocation. She is the owner of the www.DogAware.com website. She lives in the San Francisco Bay Area with Piglet.
Teddy’s owners were distraught as they explained to me on the phone why they had called. Their veterinarian had told them that their nine-week-old Golden Retriever puppy was “dominant aggressive” because he was biting their hands. He had advised them to alpha-roll the pup every time he tried to bite or otherwise challenge their authority. They’d been following the vet’s instructions for a week, and Teddy’s aggression was getting seriously worse. They feared they would have to euthanize their pup. We made an emergency same-day appointment for a behavior consultation.
I found Teddy to be a somewhat assertive puppy, who enjoyed actively exploring the world with his mouth, as normal puppies do.
Like many assertive, excitable pups, Teddy also got increasingly aroused when his owners protested his needle-sharp-toothed explorations on their skin. The more they protested, the more excited (and mouthier) he got. Hence the veterinarian’s all-too-common misdiagnosis of “dominance aggression” and his woefully inappropriate prescription of alpha-rolling the pup to put him in his place.
Rolling the dice
The alpha-roll consists of physically rolling a dog onto his side or back and holding him there until he stops resisting or struggling, supposedly submitting to your superior authority.
Popularized by the monks of New Skete in their dog-training books (such as How to Be Your Dog’s Best Friend) in the 1980s, the technique is a truly unfortunate and dangerous interpretation of a normal canine social behavior. When approached by a higher-status dog, a lower-ranking member of the pack may first avert and lower his head and shoulders, then voluntarily lie down on the ground and perhaps roll onto his side or back as an appeasement or deference gesture. Typically, when an appeasement gesture is used, the higher-ranking canine has no need to assert himself by forcibly flattening the lower-ranking dog to the ground; the subordinate is already there!
Job Michael Evans, one of the New Skete monks responsible for writing “How to Be Your Dog’s Best Friend,” later left the order, and subsequently stated he regretted including the now-controversial technique in the book. While he didn’t go as far as to say the alpha roll was ineffective or inappropriate, he did say he felt it wasn’t safe for use by the general public.
Modern behavior professionals who are well-educated in the science of behavior and learning go much further, denouncing the risky technique along with other methods based in faulty dominance theory.
The most obvious negative consequence of techniques that encourage owners to physically overpower and intimidate their canine companions is the possibility of scaring or coercing the dog into defending himself. He reacts aggressively in return, angering or frightening his owner, who often responds by escalating his own level of violence. Before you know it, the relationship between the two is seriously, sometimes irreparably, damaged.
Despite compelling evidence that physical intimidation does more harm than good, some trainers today (indeed, some very high-profile ones) are stubbornly attached to the forced roll-over, cloaking it in new-age terms and turning a blind eye to the damage done to relationships between dogs and their humans in the process.
Questions of appropriateness aside, it takes someone skilled in handling dogs to be able to alpha-roll a dog without significant risk to human safety – which is at least in part why one television show where the technique is frequently used includes a “Don’t try this at home”-style disclaimer. It’s also why trainers who employ methods such as the alpha roll talk about being bitten as “part of the job,” while those who use more appropriate, nonconfrontational approaches are more likely to keep their skins intact.
Canine as a second language
Again, the alpha roll is supposed to mimic the behavior of the “top dog” in a pack, and send the message, “I’m the boss of you!” But one huge error in alpha-roll logic is the belief that we can successfully pretend to be dogs in our interactions with our canine companions. Dogs know we’re not dogs, and any attempt on our part to mimic their language is doomed to failure.
Dogs are masters at speaking and reading canine body language. Their communications to each other are often subtle and nuanced, a furry ballet designed to keep peace in the pack. Our efforts to use canine body communications are oafish in comparison – and I imagine that our dogs are alternately amused, confused, nonplussed, and terrified by our clumsy attempts to speak their language.
Violence occurs between dogs within established social groups when the communication system breaks down; it’s a sign of an unhealthy pack relationship. Ethology studies from the 1970s and 1980s suggest that canine social structure holds together because appeasement behaviors are offered by subordinate members, not because higher-ranking members aggressively demand subservience. Instead, successful pack leaders were observed to calmly control the good stuff – an approach frequently suggested by today’s modern, positive trainers as a much safer, more appropriate, and effective method for creating a harmonious mixed-species social group.
In her book, Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals, Dr. Karen Overall agrees, stating, “The behavior of the lower status individuals, not the higher ranking one, is what determines the relative hierarchical rank. Truly high-ranking animals are tolerant of lower-ranking ones.”
Methods that encourage dogs to offer deference behaviors, and then reward them for it, are a much closer approximation of actual pack behavior – and easier for us to emulate successfully – than any application of force. Use biscuits (training treats), not (alpha) rolls!
Establishing leadership
The Monks, and others like them, didn’t have it all wrong. It is important that your dog perceive his humans as higher-ranking member of your collective multi-species social group. It is far better, safer, and ultimately more effective, however, to accomplish this through offered deference rather than forced dominance.
In his text, Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Volume Two: Etiology and Assessment of Behavior Problems, Steven R. Lindsay, a dog behavior consultant in Philadelphia, says, “A wise lupine leader avoids unnecessary dominance contests and assertions of authority.”
Lindsay also cites a 1988 study (E. Fonberg, “Dominance and Aggression”), noting that dominance that is established without resorting to aggression appears to be more stable than dominance that is maintained by constant vigilance and displays of strength.
There is a multitude of ways to establish appropriate social hierarchy without resorting to aggression. No, you don’t have to go through all doorways first, nor do you have to eat before your dog does. You can simply wait for and/or encourage your dog to offer deference behaviors in order to make good stuff happen, while at the same time you make sure that pushy behavior doesn’t result in him getting good stuff.
Your dog’s driving ambition in life is to get good stuff. Some owners and trainers express concern that teaching the dog that he can get you to click! and give him a treat by offering certain behaviors elevates his status because he’s controlling you. In reality, a dog’s psychological response to deference behaviors appears to so hardwired that if a dog repeatedly performs them, he becomes deferent. It’s not just a role he’s playing, like an actor. If he does deference, he is deferent. He can’t help it.
Deference behaviors you can use to your relationship advantage include:
• Wait at the door. Dog sits and waits to go through a door, even a wide open one, until you give him permission to move forward (good stuff = go out and have fun).
• Wait for your dinner. Dog sits and waits to eat his meal until you give him permission to eat (good stuff = eat food!).
• Wait to get in car. Dogs sits and waits outside car while door is opened, hatchback is lifted, or tailgate lowered, until you give him permission to jump in (good stuff = go somewhere in the car and have fun).
• Wait to get out of the car. Dog sits and waits in vehicle while car door is opened, hatchback is lifted, or tailgate lowered, until you give him permission to jump out (good stuff = get out of car and have fun).
• Wait to get out of kennel, crate, or exercise pen. (Good stuff = get out of kennel, crate, or pen and get attention and have fun.)
• Sit for your leash. Dog sits calmly to go out for a walk while leash is attached to collar (good stuff = go for walk).
• Ask to be petted. Dog sits and waits politely at your feet to be petted rather than jumping up, pawing, or nudging you for attention (good stuff = petting and attention).
• Ask for permission to jump on sofa or bed. Dog sits and waits to be invited onto furniture instead of jumping up uninvited (good stuff = lying on soft, comfortable surface and getting attention).
In each case, the dog learns to offer deference behavior in order to get the desired “good stuff” result. Appropriate (deference) behavior moves him closer to his goal; inappropriate behavior makes the good stuff go away (see “Oops, You Lose!” below).
Happy endings
That phone call from Teddy’s owners came almost 10 years ago, early in my career as a professional behavior consultant. Although I had handled many aggressive dogs during the 20 years I worked at the Marin Humane Society, I had not yet worked with a lot of aggression-modification cases professionally. I agreed to see Teddy, with the understanding that I would refer him to someone more experienced if I felt I wasn’t capable of handling his case.
He turned out to be one of the simplest aggression cases I’ve ever worked with. He just needed his people to stop frightening him with their unpredictable eruptions of violence so he could stop having to defend himself.
We began training with clicks and treats. Teddy loved the clicker game, and caught on very quickly to the concept that a “click!” equals “treat” – and even better, that he could make the click! happen by offering one of a growing list of desirable behaviors. We used a tether to restrain Teddy during training so if he did do inappropriate mouthing we could simply say “Oops!” and step out of reach of his nasty-sharp baby teeth.
In the very first session his arousal and biting lessened noticeably. By the time I returned for the second, the mouthing problem was 95 percent resolved, Teddy’s owners were tearfully grateful, and we happily moved on with his basic training.
Since Teddy, I’ve lost count of the number of “aggression” cases I’ve handled where the alpha roll was the clear and present cause of a dog’s increasing aggression. A frightening number of puppy/dog owners are still counseled by their veterinarians, trainers, other animal professionals, and well-intentioned friends to alpha roll their uncooperative canines.
It’s always better to get your dog to voluntarily buy into your desired behaviors than to try to force him. That’s the challenge, the joy, and the excitement of positive training. As the supposedly more intelligent species, we should be able to figure out how to get dogs to want to do what we want, including being deferent to us, without the use of force. Biscuits, not rolls!
-Pat Miller, CPDT, is WDJ’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center.
Readers of canine health books and magazines, including this one, can be forgiven for assuming that holistic dog care or natural pet care is a recent breakthrough, something developed during the past two or three decades by a handful of revolutionary veterinarians and researchers.
Not so. Today’s holistic dog care movement began over 70 years ago when Juliette de Bairacli Levy defined “natural rearing.” Now in her 90s and living in Switzerland, Levy holds a place of honor in the history of natural pet care.
Born to a wealthy Jewish family (her father was Turkish, her mother Egyptian) and raised in England with chauffeurs, maids, cooks, and gardeners, Levy knew in childhood that she wanted to be a veterinarian. She attended two universities and was in her final year of veterinary school when she decided that conventional medicine had none of the answers she sought, and she embarked on a lifetime of travel and study with nomadic people, first in England, then around the world.
“I realized that if I wanted to learn the traditional ways of healing and caring for animals, I had to be where people still lived close to the land and close to their flocks,” she says. “From Berbers, Bedouins, nomads, peasants, and gypsies in England, Israel, Greece, Turkey, Mexico, and Austria, I learned herbal knowledge and the simple laws of health and happiness. I never tired of traveling with my Afghan Hounds, always living with and learning from those around me.”
An inexhaustible writer, Levy shared what she learned in letters, travel books, novels, poems, and books about herbs and animals. In the 1930s, she published three canine herbals. The Cure of Canine Distemper described protocols she developed for her highly successful distemper clinic in London. Puppy Rearing by Natural Methods and Medicinal Herbs: Their Use in Canine Ailments were reprinted for a wider audience in London in 1947. All three were soon translated into German and other languages.
Just over 50 years ago, in 1955, she combined these works in The Complete Herbal Book for the Dog. Now in its sixth edition and called The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat, this is the book that brought Levy’s natural rearing philosophy to breeders, trainers, and dog owners throughout the world.
Five Rules of Natural Rearing
Levy’s basic rules of natural rearing for dogs require:
1) a correct natural diet of raw foods;
2) abundant sunlight and fresh air;
3) at least two hours of exercise daily, including plenty of running exercise outside any kennel enclosures;
4) hygienic kenneling, with the use of earth, grass, or gravel runs, never concrete; and
5) herbs, fasting, and other natural methods in place of vaccinations and conventional symptom-suppressing drugs.
Levy’s first rule has gained acceptance over the years. Many holistic veterinarians recommend feeding a home-prepared diet of raw foods, including meat and bones. Some use the diet of wild wolves as a model. Levy and her followers feed a variety of foods, including raw meat, dairy, eggs, minced herbs, and small quantities of fruit, vegetables, powdered seaweed, and grains such as oats soaked overnight in raw goat milk or yogurt.
“I introduced seaweed to the veterinary world when a student in the early ’30s,” she says. “It was scorned then, but now it is very popular worldwide.” She credits kelp and other sea vegetables with giving dark pigment to eyes, noses, and nails, stimulating hair growth, and developing strong bones.
In addition to providing ample quantities of pure water at all times, Levy recommends one meatless day and one fasting day (no food, just water) per week for adult dogs. Where raw bones are concerned, Levy recommends feeding them after the day’s main meal, on a full stomach, so that the bone is cushioned by food, and with a small amount of soaked bran, shredded coconut, or other fiber to help sweep bone fragments from the digestive tract.
All of Levy’s dietary recommendations are accompanied by traditional herbal formulas for everything from daily health maintenance to birthing aids and weaning foods, disinfecting herbs that help protect dogs from harmful viruses, bacteria, and parasites, and herbal first-aid for dozens of conditions and illnesses.
Researchers who study the connection between natural light and the endocrine system agree with Levy’s recommendation that dogs spend as much time as possible outdoors. They blame malillumination, the lack of unfiltered natural light, for a host of chronic illnesses. Glass windows prevent the transmission of full-spectrum natural light, but open windows and doorways provide it.
Daily outdoor exercise, including running and play, does more than burn calories; it stimulates lymph circulation, strengthens bones, improves immunity, and keeps dogs happy as well as healthy.
Levy’s advice about kenneling dogs in close contact with earth or grass rather than concrete is interesting in light of research cited by cell biologist James Oschman, PhD, in his book “Energy Medicine: The Scientific Basis of Bioenergy Therapies.” Dr. Oschman links modern health problems to our insulation from the natural supply of free electrons that reside on the surface of the earth. Barefoot contact with the earth, he says, supplies free electrons in abundance.
As San Diego health researcher Dale Teplitz explains, “Animals know that, and when given a chance they will choose to be in contact with the earth. This barefoot contact can improve sleep, reduce inflammation that causes pain, balance hormones, enhance circulatory and neurological function, and much more.”
As one would expect, Levy has no use for pesticides, weed killers, or other lawn chemicals, and she recommends feeding dogs organically raised and pasture-fed ingredients.
Levy considers vaccinations unnecessary and inappropriate, both because natural methods treat illnesses successfully and because vaccines disrupt the body’s immune system.
“You cannot discount the hundreds of canine distemper cures that Juliette and her students achieved,” says Marina Zacharias, who has studied natural rearing for over 20 years. “And I have witnessed her parvovirus treatments first-hand with great success. When you know that these ailments can be successfully treated with natural methods, it removes the fear that has been instilled in us. I know that in my case she definitely empowered me to take an active and preventive role in my animals’ health care. Our society does not teach you that.
“Juliette encourages you to think for yourself and not blindly follow established methods just because you are told to. Her attitude is rare, especially today. She has witnessed almost an entire century, and through all the technological breakthroughs of modern science, she still advocates natural rearing methods, as they continue to prove themselves effective.”
Fasting for Healing
To most of us, fasting – depriving a dog of food – seems unnatural. Surely the right thing to do is to encourage a dog to eat at every mealtime. But fasting is Levy’s choice of treatment for all animals, including humans, who are ill.
Well-known author and trainer Wendy Volhard learned about fasting and natural rearing 39 years ago when these methods saved her dog’s life and started her on a fascinating new career.
In 1967, Volhard traveled from New York to Germany, where she met 17- and 18-year-old Landseer Newfoundlands. It’s also where she acquired Heidi, an exceptionally healthy young female, as the foundation of her breeding kennel.
“I was in my early 20s then,” says Volhard, “and I wanted to do everything in the most scientific manner. I talked and worked with veterinarians at every opportunity, so I knew the importance of vaccinating every dog for everything and, of course, feeding the finest quality commercial dog food. That was the only way to go.”
But instead of thriving, Heidi declined, and at age five, she was given a month to live. “She had total deterioration,” says Volhard. “Her kidneys, liver, and heart were failing, and she had skeletal problems. Her whole body was falling apart.”
In desperation, Volhard returned to Germany and asked for help. She learned that Heidi’s long-lived, healthy relatives were fed raw, natural foods, nothing out of a box or can, and none were vaccinated. The English breeders she visited on her way home used the same methods, and they gave her as a parting gift Levy’s Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog.
Volhard read the book on her return flight to New York and laughed heartily at Levy’s advice to fast sick animals and build them up with herbs and natural foods. But at home with her dying dog, she thought, “What else can I do?” The finest veterinary medicine wasn’t helping.
Over the strong objections of her husband, who thought Heidi should enjoy a steak every day for whatever time she had left, Volhard fasted the dog for three weeks, feeding her only fluids, honey, and herbs. “I followed Juliette’s guidelines absolutely,” she says. “I had nowhere else to go. And every day that my dog didn’t eat, she got better. At the end of three weeks, we started her on a natural diet, and she regained her strength, recovered completely, got her Utility title, and lived an active, happy life until she died seven years later at age 12.”
At the time, Volhard was a Wall Street Journal reporter, with one foot in the scientific “prove it” community. She decided to compare Levy’s natural rearing diet, with its a-little-of-this-and-a-little-of-that approach, to the National Science Foundation’s nutritional guidelines for dog food, the only scientifically tested pet food standard at the time.
“It took me 12 years and many interviews with experts,” she says. “Then my veterinarian helped with final adjustments, which we made as the result of hundreds of blood tests.”
In 1984 Volhard published her diet, and the book that resulted, Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, is now in its second edition.
Several years later, she met Levy at a seminar. “I thought, Oh my, if I were in her shoes and met a woman who had taken my work and fiddled with it and then published it, how would I feel? With trepidation, I finally met her, and she said, ‘I’ve been waiting to meet you for years. You’ve done a fabulous job. Thank you for taking my work and carrying on.’ She was incredibly gracious.”
Volhard adjusted the ratio of calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus in Levy’s diet, but she calls the natural rearing philosophy as important and effective today as it was when Levy first proposed it. “Juliette did the very best she could with the knowledge available at the time,” says Volhard. “She did a magnificent job. She is truly the grandmother of the entire holistic dog care and animal care movement. She’s like Adele Davis in the human health food movement. She started it up.”
Herbal Wisdom
Traditional herbal medicine had all but disappeared in the United States when, in the 1960s, a new generation began turning away from conventional therapies and looking for alternatives. Rosemary Gladstar, now one of America’s leading herbalists, was part of that movement.
“Juliette has done amazing things for dogs, cats, and farm animals, but she has also done wonderful things for people,” says Gladstar. “Her early books had an extraordinary influence on herbalists everywhere. She single-handedly rescued a body of knowledge that would otherwise have been lost or ignored, and she put it directly into the hands of her readers.”
As valuable as Levy’s recipes and instructions were to her and other herbalists, Gladstar recalls that it was Levy’s ability to inspire her readers that changed their lives. “There is no doubt about it,” she says. “She sparked and awakened something in me, just as she did in hundreds of others, far more than any other herbalist at the time. I think it was because she was so connected to the earth and to plants, and she was able to transmit and pass on that feeling of connection. Juliette made herbal medicine fully accessible to everyone.”
Gladstar has followed Levy’s nutritional recommendations for all of her dogs, including Deva, a Bernese Mountain Dog.
“Deva came to me with all kinds of problems,” she says. “She had major personality disorders, which I think stemmed in part from her body being so uncomfortable from mange and hot spots. Her coat was in terrible shape, with huge bald areas and weeping eczema. She looked really awful, and she was so unhappy. Deva is now over nine years old, which for a Berner is elderly, and for years her health problems have been about 99 percent gone. She has a wonderful personality and a wonderful life, thanks to natural rearing.”
Gladstar began a correspondence with Levy in the 1970s after reading A Gypsy in New York and Traveler’s Joy. “Though these were not really herb books,” she says, “I loved them and wrote to the author in care of her publisher. To my surprise, she wrote back, and we became pen pals.”
In the 1980s, Gladstar organized an herbal tour that visited Levy in Greece, where she lived on a small island. “I decided then and there that I wanted to bring her to the United States so that people who used medicinal plants and raised their animals with the help of her books would have a chance to meet her.”
Gladstar listed Levy as the keynote speaker at the first International Herb Symposium, which was held in 1988 in Framingham, Massachusetts. “The response was overwhelming,” she says. “We had a huge audience. It was especially exciting for Juliette because this was the first time in her elder years that she was able to see and meet people whose lives had been affected by her books. She started spending more time in the U.S. and in fact lived here for long stretches of time, and her books began to sell again.”
One of Levy’s West Coast disciples was Marina Zacharias, who imported her NR (Natural Rearing) brand of herbal supplements from England and sold her books. By the late 1980s, Levy’s London publisher, Faber & Faber, had run out of The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat but planned not to reprint the book until a sufficient number of orders arrived. The delay could be lengthy, so Zacharias ordered 2,000 copies and kept the book in print.
Like Gladstar, Zacharias organized a large seminar featuring Juliette de Bairacli Levy, this one in Seattle. “People flew in from all over the country,” she says. “They came not only to hear her speak but to actually meet her in person and hear her stories. I think every one of us that day walked away knowing that we had touched history and that we had been very fortunate to meet such a master herbalist and animal advocate.”
Zacharias first read Levy’s book in the mid-1980s when she was preparing to bring home her first show-quality Basset Hound puppy. At the time, she had two mixed-breed toy dogs who seemed to have every possible canine disorder.
“When I read Juliette’s book,” she says, “it was as though someone hit me over the head with a brick. With great certainty I knew this was what I needed to do for my dogs. Her logic regarding natural rearing combined with her clinical experience was impressive. I immediately switched my dogs from Purina chow to raw food and never looked back.”
Zacharias values Levy’s advice because it has stood the test of time. “She will tell you that these methods are not ‘her’ diet and herbal inventions but rather foods and medicinal plants as they have been used for generations and centuries,” she says. “Juliette is an herbal historian.”
Juliette’s Legacy of Holistic Dog Care
When we asked Levy what she would most like to be remembered for, she replied, “My Turkuman Afghan Hounds became famous for their vitality and speed, and I still prize the Time magazine photograph of one of my hounds after he won Best in Show at Westminster, with the simple caption ‘Best hound in all of America.’ I would like to go to my grave or fly to heaven breeding Afghans.
“Another thing I would like to be remembered for is curing canine distemper, which became my specialty. Indeed, the veterinarians of the King of England sent me their important cases to cure during World War II at my distemper clinic in London.
“I would also like to be remembered for curing 3,000 condemned sheep by herbal methods in England in 1947, clearing their diarrhea and other symptoms with green plants and molasses while vast numbers of sheep in neighboring fields received conventional care and died. Saving the sheep remains one of my proudest moments.”
To her fans and friends in the United States and around the world, and especially to their dogs, she sends appreciation and best wishes.
Levy, who lives with her daughter in Switzerland, is still a traveler. As this article went to press Levy was in Germany visiting her remaining Afghan Hound, Malika (Shirini Shades of Velvet), who lives on a friend’s farm. She welcomes e-mail messages, which can be sent to her at info@michaelis.ch, but regrets that she will not be able to send individual replies.
-A long-time contributor to WDJ and author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs & Cats, and other books, CJ Puotinen lives in New York with her husband, a Lab, and a tabby cat.
Mick, a five-year-old Labrador Retriever, has flaky skin and smells more “doggy” than usual.
Katrina, a two-year-old mixed-breed, has goopy eyes and oily fur. She has been eating a lot of grass and vomiting almost every day. Lately her stool has been covered with mucus.
Joe, a 12-year-old Beagle, has a fatty tumor on his right side. He also has a cyst behind his left ear.
All of these individuals share something in common: their bodies are working to push toxins and waste materials out by a natural process called detoxification.
In mainstream medicine the mechanisms of detoxification are often viewed as unpleasant symptoms of illness that need to be remedied. Eye drops are administered for goopy eyes, dandruff shampoos for flaky skin, surgery for removal of cysts, and so forth.
However, when taken into a more holistic perspective, such measures only amount to removal of outward signs of an underlying state of imbalance. Detoxification, as unpleasant as this natural process may appear to the onlooker, is seen as a natural part of the healing process that should be supported, not suppressed.
In essence, the primary goal of the holistic healer is to help the body in its natural abilities to heal itself and remain healthy. Rather than ignore the causes of disease in favor of eliminating only symptoms, as many conventional drug or surgical interventions do, the natural care provider works in concert with the body’s efforts of correcting itself.
Natural detoxification
The body’s detoxification system, being extremely complex and very efficient, has the job of eliminating anything that may be harmful to the body, by whatever means necessary.
Routine detoxification is ordinarily handled by waste removal mechanisms in the digestive tract and liver, the filtering activities of the lymph system, and at immune system levels – where a complex army of antibodies, toxin-scavenging cells, and special chemicals weed out, destroy, and eliminate toxic waste.
However, if any of these systems become overburdened with too much waste or toxic overloads, or are rendered dysfunctional in any way by injury or disease, the body may resort to other, less effective means of elimination. The body will try to push potentially harmful excesses out, any way it can.
If pushed through the skin we see the eruption of rashes, dandruff, an oily coat, or pustules. If the body attempts to push excess waste through mucous membranes we see runny eyes or nose, diarrhea, or mucus discharge at the rectum or urethra.
If these last-ditch efforts fail, the potentially harmful waste compounds that the body is trying to eliminate may accumulate to cause any number of disease problems – ranging from urinary tract disease, dry nose, conjunctivitis, arthritis, chronic allergy and inflammation, skin conditions, to even cancer.
Looking at the big picture
From a holistic perspective, such occurrences bring to mind two questions: First, what may be causing or contributing to the underlying dysfunction or imbalance? Second, what can be done to help the body detoxify and correct itself?
Finding answers to each of these questions begins by simplifying the body’s job of keeping itself clean.
First and foremost, your companion’s food should be comprised of good quality, highly digestible meats and vegetables. The diet should be free of artificial preservatives, colorings, and flavorings. Cheap fillers, such as soy, corn, and grain by-products should be removed from the food dish, as should excess sugar and salt. These ingredients do not serve positive roles in canine nutrition. In fact, they may be contributing, in large part, to the excess waste that is the burden of an already overworked detoxification system.
Second, take a hard, critical look at your dog’s living environment. Toxic lawn chemicals and household cleaners may also be contributing to your companion’s toxicity issues, as might secondhand cigarette smoke, mold and mildew, air pollution, or even potentially allergenic weeds in the backyard. Anything that presents the potential of causing toxic excess in the body should be removed from the scenario, whenever possible.
Digestive enzymes and probiotic supplements should be added to the food, as these will help with digestion and elimination of waste. Green foods, such as spirulina, wheatgrass, or barley grass may also be beneficial, as they are rich with antioxidants and help feed digestive flora that are necessary in the breakdown of waste in the intestine.
To help expedite elimination of waste, fasting may be indicated as well; talk with your holistic vet to find out what type of fasting may be appropriate for your pet.
Provide plenty of clean water
Water is essential in the process of detoxification. Encourage your companion to drink copious amounts of clean, filtered water. Avoid water that contains chlorine, fluoride, chemical residues, harmful bacteria, or parasites (i.e., avoid ditch or stream water).
Depending on circumstances, it may be wise to provide distilled water for a few days. Because distilled water is virtually void of the minerals that are naturally found in most water, it tends to pull minerals, including some metals, and chemicals away from the body before it exits in the form of urine. This can be very beneficial in cases where metal toxicity or chemical poisoning is suspected. However, keep in mind that long-term consumption of distilled water may deplete your companion’s body of some of the trace minerals it needs.
Detoxify with herbs
A variety of herbs may be useful in supporting the detoxification process.
Herbs that strengthen liver functions, such as dandelion root (Taraxacum officinale), nettle leaf (Urtica spp.), yellow dock root (Rumex crispus), Oregon grape root (Mahonia aquifolium), or turmeric (Curcuma longa) may help improve digestion and the body’s abilities to remove toxins from the blood.
Lymphatic herbs, such as red clover (Trifolium pratense), cleavers (Gallium aparine), or red root (Ceanothus velutinous) may help support the lymph system clear toxins from the tissues.
To help with the removal of intestinal mucus and the toxins it collects, ground flax seed, or perhaps a mild dose of senna or another herbal laxative, is in order.
These and many other herbs stand as viable options in support of your companion’s detoxification. To find out which herbs are best for your companion and her needs, consult a veterinary practitioner who is versed in the use of herbal medicines.
Among the many formulas used by holistic vets is Detox Blend by Animals’ Apawthecary. [Editor’s note: This is the company headed by author Greg Tilford.] This is a sweet-tasting liquid combination (in a glycerin base) of dandelion root, burdock root, red clover, licorice, and other herbs that help to safely support the liver in its job of filtering waste from the body.
Most importantly, remember that detoxification is, and should remain, a perfectly natural part of the healing process. Although the circumstances that trigger detoxification may warrant the attention of your veterinarian, the means by which your companion’s body eliminates toxins should be supported, not suppressed. That all begins with cleaning that pup up – from inside out!
1. If symptoms such as hair loss, lethargy, weight loss, and sudden onset of excessive thirst and urination are seen, get the dog to your vet ASAP.
2. Avoid giving your dog corticosteroids for chronic conditions or long-term use. Steroidal drugs are a prime cause of Cushing’s disease.
3. Give licorice root to any dog with Addison’s disease or adrenal fatigue. The herb’s activity actually helps balance the adrenals.
The adrenals are small glands located just forward of the kidneys. They are so small, in fact, they were virtually ignored by early anatomists for centuries. Although small in size, they are extremely important in the overall hormonal balance of the body and its ability to maintain homeostasis.
The adrenal glands also interact with the hypothalamus and pituitary gland; the collaboration of the three glands is known as the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis (HPA axis). Their joint activities help control the body’s reactions to stress, whether it is physical or psychological. They also help regulate body processes such as digestion, the immune system, and energy usage.
The adrenals consist of two distinct parts: the outer cortex and the inner medulla. These two areas are entirely different in their function, their cellular structure, and their embryological origin, so it’s odd (at least in terms of our current understanding of the complex gland) that they are “built” into the same structure.
Adrenal Medulla
The center of the adrenal gland, the adrenal medulla, produces two important hormones that are secreted in times of acute and severe stress, in what is known as the “fight or flight” mechanism.
The first, epinephrine (commonly known as adrenaline), plays a central role in short-term stress reactions. It increases the heart rate and force of heart contractions, facilitates blood flow to the muscles and brain, decreases stomach and intestinal activity, and helps with conversion of glycogen to glucose in the liver – all actions that would promote a lifesaving fight or flight.
The second hormone produced by the adrenal medulla is norepinephrine, also known as noradrenaline. Norepinephrine’s primary action is to increase blood pressure.
Adrenal Cortex
Whereas a dog could survive the surgical excision of his adrenal medulla, the adrenal cortex is essential to life. The cortex is divided into three layers or zones. The zona glomerulosa, the outer zone, is responsible for the secretion of mineralocorticoid hormones. The zona fasciculata, the middle and largest zone (about 70 percent of the cortex), is composed of cells that secrete the glucocorticoid hormones. The zona reticularis, the inner zone, is responsible for secretion of sex hormones.
The secretions of the adrenal cortex (and the commercially available drugs that mimic them) are often lumped into one category – corticosteroids, or simply, steroids – but they perform separate functions.
The mineralocorticoids (from the outer, zona glomerulosa) comprise a small portion of the overall mix of corticosteroids in the body, but play an important role. Their principle effect is on the transport of important ions such as sodium and potassium across cell walls. Aldosterone is the most potent mineralocorticoid, and is responsible for accelerating the secretion of potassium and retention of sodium from the tubules of the kidney, which in turn helps maintain the body’s water balance by increasing resorption of water. Sweat glands are also under the control of the ion-pumping action of mineralocorticoids.
A lack of mineralocorticoids ( Addison’s disease) may result in a loss of sodium and retention of potassium, a condition that, in its extreme, may prove to be fatal.
The zona fasciculata, or middle zone of the cortex, secretes two glucocorticoid hormones: cortisol and corticosterone. The glucocorticoids have a wide range of physiological activity in the body, whether they are present as natural hormones or as commercially produced drugs. As prescribed drugs, they are used for a wide variety of diseases and conditions – and are the most overused and abused drugs in the conventional veterinarian’s pharmacy. Most holistic vets, on the other hand, try to limit prescribing of glucocorticoids to an absolute minimum.
Glucocorticoids have an especially profound impact on the immune system and the metabolism of carbohydrates, proteins, and lipids. The metabolic action of the glucocorticoids is to enhance the production of glucose (the body’s primary energy sugar from digestion), which results in a tendency toward hyperglycemia (increased blood sugar levels). In addition, glucocorticoids decrease fat production and increase the breakdown of fatty tissues, which results in the release of glycerol and fatty acids, readily available sources of energy.
Glucocorticoids suppress both inflammatory and immunologic responses. By suppressing inflammation, they may inhibit tissue destruction and fibroplasia (scarring). However, glucocorticoids also reduce resistance to bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which in turn favors the spread of infection. And they have a profoundly negative effect on healing.
The third type of hormones originating from the adrenal cortex are the adrenal sex hormones. Secreted in relatively small amounts by the zona reticularis (inner zone of the adrenal cortex), these include progesterone, estrogens, and androgens. The effect of the adrenal sex hormones is usually masked by the hormones from the testes and ovaries, but may take on more significance in the spayed or neutered animal.
Synergistic Steroids
As I just explained, all the adrenal “steroids” have specific functions. Complicating the picture is the fact that they also perform some overlapping functions. Their activities are all-pervasive, affecting a multitude of organs in a complex manner. What’s more, dogs may have a wide range of responses to steroids, depending on a number of factors. Practitioners can only guess what any individual dog’s response will be to any dose of steroid they choose to prescribe.
This means that any steroidal drug that is prescribed by a veterinarian with the intention of having one effect may well have other unpredictable and unwanted effects. This is why drugs that are supposedly strictly glucocorticoid in action may well cause a dog to experience excessive thirst and urination (a mineralocorticoid-effect). Because of the functional overlap of these steroids, there is no way to separate their beneficial effects from their potentially harmful ones, no matter how hard the drug companies try to convince us otherwise.
Let’s say, to give an example, that you have chosen to treat your dog’s skin condition with a prescribed steroidal product (likely a glucocorticoid), because it has potent activity as an anti-inflammatory agent. Unfortunately, that same steroid will have an adverse effect on the immune system, slowing your dog’s normal immune response and retarding healing. He may also experience increased thirst and urination.
In addition, glucocorticoid hormones (either naturally produced or from prescribed medications) stimulate the adrenal medulla. There are several potential results of this low-level adrenal stimulation: the increased load on the heart may cause heart failure; the chronic excess blood glucose may lead to diabetes mellitus; and the persistent stimulation of the adrenals may lead to “adrenal fatigue” or ultimately to adrenal failure (Addison’s disease).
Diseases of the Adrenals
There are two major diseases of the adrenal glands. One involves a hypersecretion of the hormones of the gland (Cushing’s disease, or hyperadrenocorticism). The other, Addison’s disease or hypoadreno-corticism, is the result of a hyposecretion.
Cushing’s Disease
Hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s) may be the most frequent endocrinopathy in adult to aged dogs. The lesions and clinical signs associated with the disease result primarily from chronic excess of cortisol. Animals can exhibit any number of a wide variety of clinical signs, making proper diagnosis a challenge, even after evaluating a number of appropriate laboratory tests. The disease tends to be insidiously, slowly progressive.
There are three primary ways in-creased cortisol levels can create a “Cushinoid” reaction in dogs: tumors of the pituitary, functional tumors of the adrenals, and long-term administration of cortico-steroids.
Pituitary tumors affect the adrenocorticotropic (ACTH) -containing cells of the pituitary; this form of the disease is referred to as pituitary-dependent hyperadreno-corticism. Functional adrenal tumors are a far less common cause of the disease in dogs; the ratio of pituitary-dependent to primary-adrenal disease is about 80 percent to 20 percent. Many of us in the veterinary business worry that the most common cause of Cushing’s is drug-induced – excessive corticosteroid therapy given over a prolonged period.
Clinical signs of Cushing’s, no matter its primary cause, may include one or most of the following:
• Polyuria (increased frequency of urination), polydipsia (increased thirst), and polyphagia (increased, ravenous hunger).
• Weakening and atrophy of the muscles of the extremities and abdomen, resulting in gradual abdominal enlargement, lordosis (sway back), muscle trembling, and weakness.
• Weight loss. While most dogs appear fat, they may actually lose weight due to the loss of muscle mass.
• Fat deposits in the liver, resulting in diminished liver function.
• Skin lesions are common and are often the most recognizable symptoms of the disease. The skin may thin, or mineral deposits may occur within the skin, especially along the dorsal midline. The dog may also exhibit hair loss in a non-itchy “hormonal pattern” (bilateral and symmetrical hair loss, not patchy as typically seen with allergies, and often associated with thinning of hair and poor regrowth, rather than a complete loss of hair). This hair loss may be concentrated over the body, groin, and flanks, and spare the head and extremities. In chronic hormonal conditions the hair thinning may be associated with a thickening and a black discoloration of the abdominal skin called acanthosis.
• Behavior changes: lethargy, sleep-wake cycle disturbances, panting, and decreased interaction with owners.
A tentative diagnosis may be inferred from the clinical signs, but positive diagnosis requires laboratory confirmation. Differentiating pituitary-dependent from primary-adrenal Cushing’s is impossible without lab tests.
Cushing’s syndrome due to the administration of corticosteroids is easy to diagnose by asking the question: “Is your dog being treated with corticosteroids?” This form of the disease is easy to treat by discontinuing the drug. Note that glucocorticoids come under many brand names, and each type of glucocorticoid drug supposedly has its own specific activities, potency (compared to naturally occurring hormones), onset and duration of action. Also, the mineralocorticoid potential of all of these are affected by the individual animals’ responses to the drug.
A recently described condition called “adrenal hyperplasia-like syndrome,” mimics Cushing’s in the way its symptoms appear, but is likely due to a congenital imbalance in either the dog’s growth hormone or its sex hormones. (All of this offers further evidence for the interconnectedness of all the adrenal/pituitary hormones.) To date this disease has been well defined in a line of Pomeranians, and has also occurred in Samoyeds, Chow Chows, toy Poodles, and Keeshonds.
In most cases, the dog’s clinical signs have led the practitioner to suspect Cushing’s, and initial testing may help to differentiate this from diseases that present in a similar fashion.
Almost any hormonal condition may produce skin lesions similar to the Cushinoid dog, and increased thirst and urination may be due to a variety of diseases such as diabetes mellitus, diabetes insipidus, or renal failure. Also, normally aging animals may have many of the same symptoms as Cushing’s.
After other differential diagnoses have been ruled out, there are several tests available to help ascertain the cause of the syndrome – pituitary-related or adrenal. Your vet may need to run a series of tests to help understand the causal pathway of the disease.
For example, tests are available to evaluate the functional capability of the steroid-secreting cells of the adrenal, to evaluate the effect ACTH has on the secreting ability of the gland, and to measure plasma concentrations of circulating steroids and ACTH under certain conditions. Radiographs, ultrasound, or computerized tomography (CT), or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) may also be helpful.
The conventional medical treatment for Cushing’s is aimed at attempting to shut down the excess production of hormones. There are several drugs that are specific for destroying the functional capacity of the particular cells from the area of the pituitary or the zone of the adrenal that is affected. In some cases, surgery may be used to remove the affected cells.
In all cases, the drugs will be effective only against certain cell lines (thus the need to ascertain which cells are the culprits). Furthermore, all drugs that have been used to date have a wicked list of adverse side effects – user beware! Surgery is also a difficult option; cutting into the pituitary that lies on the base of the brain is not an operation for the novice, and tumors of the adrenal tend to be microscopic in size and scattered throughout the gland.
Addison’s Disease
Hypoadrenocorticism, better known as Addison’s disease, is uncommon in young to middle-aged dogs. Unlike Cushing’s, which is a more insidious and chronic disease, Addison’s can have rapid and fatal consequences.
Many of the ongoing symptoms of Addison’s disease are not specific; they are more into the category of the ADR patient (Ain’t Doing Right): slowly progressive loss of body condition, failure to respond to stress, and recurrent episodes of digestive problems (gastroenteritis). The dog may lose weight (often an excessive amount), urinate more frequently, refuse to eat, and suffer bouts of vomiting and/or diarrhea.
As the disease progresses, though, a lack of aldosterone, the principal mineralocorticoid, results in marked changes in blood serum levels of potassium, sodium, and chloride. These alterations in electrolytes may lead to an excess of serum potassium, which then causes a decrease in the dog’s heart rate (bradycardia), and this, in turn, predisposes to weakness or circulatory collapse after even light exercise. The diminished circulation may be severe enough to trigger renal failure.
The condition may progress to complete failure (true Addison’s syndrome), and the dog may collapse. Without treatment, these dogs may die.
Diagnosis is often presumed from the dog’s history and clinical signs, and laboratory results may be used to confirm the condition. Changes may be seen in the blood picture, electrocardiogram (ECG), and sodium:potassium ratio.
An adrenal crisis is an acute medical emergency. The dog will need fluids, emergency doses of glucose and perhaps glucocorticoids, and supportive immediate therapy. Long-term therapy will likely be indicated; you need to consult with your holistic vet for alternatives to the corticoid drugs that will likely be recommended by a conventional vet.
The Pituitary Gland Connection
The pituitary gland is mentioned here because it is a prime regulator of adrenal secretions, as well as providing regulatory functions for many other endocrine glands.
The pituitary is a very small endocrine gland located on the underside of the brain. It is attached to the hypothalamus, a portion of the brain that collects and integrates information from all parts of the body, which is then used to regulate the secretion of hormones produced in the pituitary.
For such a small gland, the pituitary secretes a veritable plethora of hormones, many of which are the prime instigators/initiators for the secretion of other hormones from endocrine glands located in other areas of the body. It is almost as if the pituitary is the on/off switch for many of the body’s hormones.
While the connections between the pituitary and the adrenals are directly evident, the adrenals and their secretions are also secondarily involved in many other glands and functions of the body. For example, DHEA, an androgenic hormone produced by the adrenals, may be involved with obesity and aging. And the functioning capabilities of the thyroid may be indirectly linked to adrenal function. And let’s not forget that all forms of hormones, including those produced by the adrenals, act in the central nervous system as neurotransmitters or neuromodulators – further evidence for the importance of the mind/body link.
Other Adrenal Diseases
Diseases of the inner zone of the cortex, the zona reticularis, are relatively rare. They are generally associated with neoplasia (tumors) and as a rule they create an excess secretion of hormones associated with the specific cells involved with the tumor. Depending on which steroid is secreted in excess, the dog’s sex, and his or her age at onset, the affected animal may exhibit virilism (the development of masculine traits in the female), precocious sexual development, or feminization.
Because the primary hormones secreted by the adrenal medulla (epinephrine and norepinephrine) are related to stress, its primary disease is usually related to a chronic overstimulation, which in turn might create adrenal fatigue and/or lead to other conditions, such as diabetes mellitus or heart failure. One type of tumor of the medulla, the pheochromocytoma, while uncommon, has been occasionally reported. Because the tumor increases the secretion of hormones, its symptoms include increased heart rate, edema, and an enlarged heart.
Alternative Therapies for Conditions of the Adrenals
It should be obvious from the discussion of the adrenals that they are an integral part of a complex of interacting organ systems, all with independent, but overlapping functions. Put all this together and you’ve got a real challenge for trying to select the best therapeutic regime. On the other hand, since they typically work with entire body systems, alternative medicines may offer the best approach to overall and long-term healing.
Note that an Addisonian crisis (see above) is a medical emergency and requires immediate veterinary attention.
A general approach to treatment for either Cushing’s (hyperadrenocorticism) or adrenal fatigue (hypoadrenocorticism) might include the following:
• Discontinue chronic use of glucocorticoids if at all possible. The number one cause of Cushing’s syndrome in dogs is the prolonged use of corticosteroids. Find a good holistic vet to help you slowly wean your dog from steroidal drugs.
• Proper nutrition. Use of a fresh, healthy, balanced diet will assure proper organ system functioning. Natural, fresh foods won’t contain toxins that compromise the functions of organs.
• Minimize life’s stressors. Important components include proper exercise, correct weight for the breed, socialized behavior to live at ease with humans and other animals, and a well-defined place in the hierarchy of the family’s relationship. Most of all, let your dog be a dog.
• Minimize exposure to toxins. Plastics, pesticides, and herbicides have been shown to affect sex hormones. Preservatives and other artificial additives in foods and vaccines may adversely affect hormonal output.
• When indicated, use whole-body therapies. Acupuncture and homeopathy are examples of techniques that, when used properly, offer balance to the whole body.
• Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) is specific for the adrenal glands, especially for fortifying them after Addison’s or adrenal fatigue. Since the herb’s activity actually helps balance the adrenals (as well as most other organ systems), I often recommend it for any condition that might stress those glands. Check with a qualified herbalist for dosages and best uses of the herb.
• Finally, avoid the temptation to “chase symptoms.” Conventional medicine is notorious for “take-a-shot-and-run” treatments that address current symptoms and do little for the long-term health of the individual. With diseases of an organ system as complex as the adrenals, this approach may be satisfying for the short term, but may never result in a complete resolution of the disease. Have your holistic vet come up with a long-range plan of action that both of you are comfortable with, and follow the plan until you see some results.
Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.
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When I first saw Laney, she was across the parking lot from the agility class I was teaching. Laney was a spinning, barking mass of black and white dog. Whenever the dogs in my class moved, Laney would leap in the air and start spinning and barking again. Her person, Bonnie Vogt, looked confused and distressed.
“I had no idea what I was getting myself into,” Vogt told me at a later date. She’d met Laney just a few days earlier at a dog camp. Laney was attending the camp with her foster person and Vogt took a fancy to the young dog. The attraction was obvious; Laney was athletic, smart, driven, and eager to please. It wasn’t until Vogt brought Laney home and took her to observe the agility class that Vogt discovered Laney’s somewhat crazier side.
Laney is certainly not alone in her high arousal behavior. Many dogs have something that gets them really worked-up – skateboards, cats, and bicycles are common. For Laney, it can be anything that moves, including cars, balls, or dogs running an agility course.
“Look” is a behavior that can help you manage your dog’s response in these situations. It is an especially useful behavior for dogs whose excitement is triggered, at least in part, by movement, a prey drive, or the desire to fetch or herd.
“Look” can be part of an overall program to help your dog learn to behave better in the presence of those things that make her crazy.
“It really works,” says Vogt. Today, Laney can walk politely down busy streets (with cars rushing by), past moving dogs, and even ignore skateboards. Vogt acknowledges that Laney’s success at overcoming her crazies began with the Look.
There is a lot to it
Look is a combination behavior. It is more than the “Leave it” or “Off.” It is more than the ever-popular “watch me.” It involves the dog breaking eye contact with the arousing object, person, or animal (whatever triggers the dog’s manic behavior); turning his head away from that trigger; making eye contact with you; and holding that eye contact until you give a release signal. This is a behavior that a dog can do while sitting still or moving, on leash or off. The Look is most effective when the dog learns to do all of this as soon as he notices the thing that makes him crazy – without you asking!
With a dog who gets overexcited when he sees skateboarders, for example, the Look works like this: You are walking down the street and a skateboarder comes around the corner. As soon as your dog notices the skateboarder, instead of barking and lunging, he looks at you and keeps looking until the skateboarder is past and you give the release signal. You lavish your dog with fantastic treats, praise, or attention until the skateboarder is past.
Teaching and reinforcing the Look can certainly help a dog behave better in the presence of his triggers. But there is an added benefit for dogs whose reactive behavior is also motivated by uncertainty or fear. Generously rewarding the Look may also result in counter-conditioning the scary thing, so that it becomes less scary.
Steps to training the Look
The key to being able to effectively use Look to help manage a dog who gets worked-up around dogs, skateboards, cars, cats, or anything else, is to train the behavior thoroughly before you ever use it around the things that make the dog “lose it.” Here are the steps for building a strong and reliable Look.
• Step one: Similar to “Leave it”
The first step is to teach your dog to leave something alone that he or she wants.
To begin, arm yourself with a handful of super delicious treats (such as fresh cooked chicken) and some rather boring treats (such as ordinary kibble). Put a boring treat in your left hand. Have the super good treats in a pouch, behind your back, on a table, or in some other way close at hand but not available to your dog.
Present the boring treat to your dog in a closed fist (so he or she can smell it, but can’t get to it). Allow your dog to lick, sniff, and try to get to the treat. The moment your dog backs or looks away from your closed hand a tiny bit, mark the behavior (with the word “Yes!” or the click! of a clicker, for example), and give your dog one of the top-quality treats from your other hand. Be very patient; some dogs will lick and mouth your hand for several minutes before they back off the first time.
Repeat several times until your dog immediately backs away from the treat.
Move the boring treat to your right hand and repeat the exercise.
• Step two: Make eye contact
The second step to the “Look” behavior is teaching your dog to make eye contact with you when he backs off of the treat.
Practice the step one exercise until you are confident your dog will immediately back away from a closed hand holding a treat. Now, when he backs away, instead of clicking or saying “Yes!” immediately, wait for him to glance up at your face. Then click! or say “Yes!” and give your dog one of the super-delicious treats. Once again, be patient. At first, your dog will not know that you have raised the criteria for a reward. She may go back to the hand and sniff and lick some more. Wait. The moment she looks at you to figure out what you want, click! and give her a terrific treat.
Practice this several times with the boring treat in each hand. Don’t worry if your dog is not staring into your eyes; just looking up at your face is enough.
Please note: Some dogs are not comfortable making or holding eye contact with people and have not learned that it is a rewarding behavior. For these dogs, looking at your face can be a little more difficult. If you have not already taught your dog that making eye contact with you is a valuable and rewarding behavior, practice it separately from this exercise. Try taking a treat and bringing it up to your eye. When your dog follows the treat and looks at your face, click! or say “Yes!” and reward with a treat.
• Step three: Put it on cue
At this point, your dog will probably start “offering” you the look without you asking; this is great! In the long run, you will want to continue reinforcing the offered or automatic look. (See step six, below, for more on the automatic look.) But teaching your dog to respond to the Look cue when you ask can also be helpful.
You are ready to put the behavior on cue once your dog has the idea of looking away from the treat and into your eyes. Immediately before you present the fist with the boring treat, say “Look!” After he associates the word with the action, you can present the fist first, then say, “Look!”
A fun and added benefit of using the word “look” instead of something more common like “leave it” or “off” is that it is an easy word to slip into normal sentences. Think how impressed your neighbors will be when you can walk down the sidewalk and say to your dog, “Now don’t even LOOK at that kitty,” and he whips his head around and pays attention to you instead of the cat!
• Step four: Make it more difficult
Once your dog can easily look away from a temptation and hold eye contact with you for about 10 seconds, raise your criteria in two ways: increase the length of time your dog holds eye contact, and increase the level of temptation offered by the thing he is supposed to be resisting.
Start this latter process by having your dog resist the temptation of very attractive treats, by having him look away from treats in an open palm, or by having him look away from a treat on the floor. You can work with different items, too. Practice with boring objects (such as a hat or towel) and gradually build up to more exciting objects (like his favorite toy or a ball). Practice with things your dog would normally want to investigate, such as trees he’d like to sniff when you are on walks. For your dog to get really good, you may need to practice with as many as 30 or more different items.
Increase the length of time your dog needs to hold eye contact, too. At first, mark the desired behavior with a click! or “Yes!” and give him a treat for just glancing at your face, then for holding it for a half a second, then a whole second, then two seconds, etc. Work up to a minute or longer.
Practice each of these increasingly demanding criteria separately. If you work on the length of time, use a boring treat in a closed fist. If you work on a more difficult object (like a better treat in an open palm), click at first for simply looking away, then for making eye contact, and then for holding the eye contact. Then put them together and practice with more difficult objects for longer periods of time.
At this point, start varying the rewards, giving less interesting treats for easier responses, and better treats for more difficult responses. Note: Do not yet practice with the thing that makes your dog crazy!
• Step five: Vary locations, positions
Practice in different locations and with your dog in different positions, by setting up practice sessions in new places. Also practice with various levels of distraction. Again, start with the easier distractions and then make it more difficult.
Practice with your dog in different positions, too: in front of you, next to you, on either side, standing, sitting, or walking.
Practice both on leash and off leash. At first, do off-leash practice with items that are easier to resist or with some type of “safety” in place (like a screen over the top of a bowl) so that your dog cannot get the treats or toys you are practicing with.
Try setting up a Look “course” where you have multiple items such as treats, toys, and odd objects set around your yard or the park. Include people and other dogs, too. Walk your dog past and around each object, person, or animal.
• Step six: The automatic look
The automatic response is part of what makes Look a powerful behavior. At various points while training this, your dog will most likely “offer” the look without your “asking.” This is GREAT and should be rewarded generously, with the best treats possible, and with jackpots (rapidly feeding 10 or more treats). You want your dog to volunteer the Look any time he is unsure of himself.
Practice this behavior around a variety of items, some easier and some more difficult to resist. With enough practice, the Look will become one of the things your dog does when he doesn’t know what else to do! You’ll soon find that your dog will automatically look at you when he spots a former trigger; notice and reward this!
Trying it in the real world
Be sure your dog is ready to begin practicing in the presence of the thing that makes your dog crazy by testing him with different objects in different locations first. Make sure he can offer the Look in the presence of many different triggers, in many locations, and while in different positions. You want him to really understand this behavior, and have it well generalized, before practicing with the thing that makes your dog crazy.
To set up your dog for success, arrange your practice sessions so that you can control the distance between your dog and his trigger. At first, practice with the thing that makes your dog crazy far enough away that your dog doesn’t actually get worked-up. Practice repeatedly so that your dog automatically looks at you every time he sees his former trigger.
Use the absolute best rewards possible. This is the time to bring out the roast beef, smelly sardines, or canned chicken.
Gradually (over several practice sessions or possibly over several weeks of practice) move your dog closer and closer until he can do the behavior with the thing that makes him crazy within a few feet.
Continue watching for those “offered” Looks. Reward generously and give jackpots. This helps your dog learn that he can disengage on his own and that you will notice and appreciate it!
“Look” is a great foundation
I’ve seen the Look work wonders with many dogs, including Laney and one of my own dogs. I’ve watched dogs with high prey drive learn to ignore cats and squirrels and look at their handlers instead. I’ve known dogs who would like to chase joggers, skateboarders, and bicyclists learn to Look instead of lunge. I’ve watched dogs who are reactive with other dogs learn to walk through groups of strange dogs while looking at their person.
Look is a powerful foundation tool for managing high-arousal problems. When a dog can Look reliably when asked and offers the behavior in the face of potentially arousing stimuli, he is well on his way to learning calm behavior in any situation.
Willard Water is one of life’s mysteries. Most people have never heard of it. Those who have, tend to use it religiously, even though they aren’t sure what it is or how it works. They say it improves digestion, reduces migraine headaches, relieves arthritis, improves skin health, heals burns and wounds without scarring, helps balance blood sugar, treats gum disease, supports detoxification, lowers high blood pressure, alleviates pain, and is helpful in the treatment of dozens of other conditions, including cancer.
Its manufacturer makes no medical claims beyond reporting that Willard Water may have anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties, and that free-radical scavenger tests show it to be a powerful antioxidant.
What helps set Willard Water apart from other “wonder” products is that it was examined by a Congressional subcommittee on health and long-term care in 1980, investigated by the “60 Minutes” TV program that same year, and tested by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. To date, all evidence has found Willard Water to be safe and nontoxic.
While some veterinarians might scoff at the claims made by Willard Water proponents, other holistic practitioners credit the product with amazing abilities to heal and balance. For example, Roger DeHaan, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Kings Mountain, North Carolina, has recommended Willard Water for his canine patients since 1983. He mixes the liquid concentrate with drinking water for improved hydration and applies it to cuts, wounds, and other injuries. He even adds a small amount (10 cc) of full-strength concentrate to each liter of Lactated Ringers Solution before administering subcutaneous fluids.
History of the catalyst
What exactly is this stuff? Its ingredients (water, fossilized organics, sodium meta silicate, sulfated castor oil, calcium chloride, and magnesium sulfate) don’t sound like much – but their combined action redefines the behavior of water.
The addition of Willard Water concentrate to water is said to change water’s molecular structure from a very stable tetrahedron to a chain of water molecules attracted by strong electrostatic bonds to very small electrically charged colloidal particles. The result, which its inventor called Catalyst Altered Water because it literally alters or changes water, penetrates where normal water can’t.
Willard Water was developed in the 1960s by John Willard, Ph.D., a professor of chemistry at the South Dakota School of Mines. While consulting for an oil company, he searched for a way to remove the sludge that plagued oil wells. He found it in a formula he had previously developed to remove soot from Pullman railcars.
When Dr. Willard accidentally burned himself, the only water at hand was a dilute solution of the sludge-removal formula. To his surprise, the treated water immediately eliminated his pain and the burn quickly healed without scarring. He began to experiment on himself and his family, then asked friends and relatives to try his Catalyst Altered Water. Through the 1960s and ’70s, word spread.
Soon people in South Dakota were using dilute solutions of Willard Water to treat burns, sprains, bruises, and other injuries. They added it to their drinking water, laundry detergent, shampoo, and bath water.
Farmers, gardeners, and greenhouse operators discovered that plants treated with Willard Water needed less fertilizer and had better root structure, stronger stems, higher yields, and more foliage, even during drought conditions.
Dr. Willard found that farmers consistently reported improvements in cattle within three weeks of switching to Willard Water. Livestock raised on Willard Water showed greater resistance to shipping fever, a condition caused by the stress of crowded transportation, as well as reduced stress during weaning, branding, dehorning, and castration. Those on Willard Water recovered faster than control animals.
Pet use
For all animals, Willard Water seems to act as a whole-body tonic. That is, it’s safe to use in small amounts for long periods of time, during which it apparently helps to bring into balance all of the body’s systems.
The following doses have worked well for dogs, but so have other concentrations. If you’re experimental, try a little less or more and observe your dog’s response.
For best results, use good-quality filtered, bottled, or uncontaminated water from a reliable source. Reverse-osmosis filtered water is highly recommended. Hard water, which contains high concentrations of minerals, is supposed to interfere with or slow the action of Willard Water.
Willard Water comes in two forms, dark and clear. “I use the dark concentrate,” says Dr. DeHaan, “because it contains lignite and dozens of important trace minerals. I’m convinced that those minerals make a difference.”
One fluid ounce (2 tablespoons) concentrate per gallon of water is the strength recommended for daily human consumption as well as for topical application on pets and people. This same strength is a good daily drinking water for animals with acute or chronic health problems or for any animals during hot weather or times of stress. (Note that these recommendations are for Clear Willard Water and Dark XLR-8 Plus Willard Water. The greatly diluted Dark XXX product requires 2¼ times the amounts listed here.)
The recommended maintenance water for healthy dogs, cats, cattle, and other animals not under stress is far more dilute, such as ¼ ounce (½ tablespoon, or just over 1 teaspoon) concentrate per gallon of water.
Use this solution to fill your dog’s water bowl, which should be available at all times. Add it to dry, canned, or raw food. If you include grain in your dog’s home-prepared diet, consider soaking it overnight in diluted Willard Water to improve digestibility. To increase the grain’s nutritional content, drain the jar and leave it open and on its side for a day or two. Grind or puree the sprouting grain before adding to food. Leftover pureed grain keeps well in the refrigerator for several days.
In her book, Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, Wendy Volhard, another longtime user of Willard Water, recommends adding diluted Willard Water to your dog’s drinking water when traveling to keep stress levels under control.
“Taking your own supply of drinking water is preferable,” she says, “but if that is not possible, use what is available on your trip and add 2 tablespoons of diluted Willard Water to each bowl, so that your dog is not affected by the change.”
Dr. DeHaan’s only caution is to start slowly. He introduces Willard Water gradually and in small doses, giving small dogs 1 to 2 tablespoons of the dilute solution daily, adding it to drinking water or food. Medium-sized dogs receive 4 tablespoons per day, and large or giant breeds start with ½ to ¾ cup (4 to 6 ounces).
“Too much too fast can accelerate the detoxification response,” he explains. “If your dog gets diarrhea, ease off a little until his system catches up.” This temporary symptom is the only adverse side effect Dr. DeHaan has seen while treating thousands of dogs with Willard Water.
In Priest River, Idaho, Ralph and Rita Huddleston were distressed when their eight-year-old West Highland Terrier, Kramer, stopped acting playful and was unable to jump on their laps or into his favorite chair. He seemed to suffer from pain and a lack of energy.
“We ourselves have felt so much better since using Willard Water,” they say, “that we decided to give it a try for our little friend. His condition disappeared as fast as it began, and Kramer is now his old happy self again. He knows when we are drinking our Willard Water and sits at our feet begging for a little sip, which we give him out of our hand. Of course, he drinks whatever he wants from his water dish.”
Two years ago, Janice Walters of Belen, New Mexico, noticed that after using Willard Water for a few months, she had more energy and her prescription medications seemed to be working better.
She started giving Willard Water to her dogs and cat. “The first thing I noticed was they were drinking more water than usual,” she says. “The cat has her own bowl, and the dogs share two half-gallon self-watering bowls. Previously I had to fill those containers every two days. Now it’s every day. The dogs got more energetic, and Vixen’s coat started looking shiny.”
Vixen, a Golden Retriever/Shepherd-mix, is now 12, and Darby, a Lhasa-mix, is 11. “Our new dog, Chance, is a two-year-old Boxer-mix,” she says. “He keeps the girls busy, and they keep up with him.”
Walters, an animal rehabilitation specialist, is vice-president of a local rescue group. “I recommend Willard Water for everyone, but especially the dogs,” she says. “I’m convinced it’s one of the best things you can give an animal.”
Cancer
Willard Water’s testimonials include many reports about cancer patients, including dogs who outlive their prognoses, or, in some cases, completely recover.
“Willard Water doesn’t cure cancer,” says Dr. DeHaan, “but it definitely supports the cancer patient. It does this in part by improving digestion and the assimilation of nutrients, which strengthens immunity.”
For canine patients with cancer or other serious illnesses, the recommended concentration is the same as the maintenance amount for humans, 1 fluid ounce (2 tablespoons) concentrate per gallon of water.
Spraying or applying the same dilution to skin cancers is another support strategy. Diluted Willard Water can be sprayed or applied to any canine tumor or skin growth several times per day. Simply apply thoroughly and let dry.
Any conventional, complementary, or alternative cancer therapy may work more efficiently in combination with Willard Water, which seems to improve the effectiveness of many prescription drugs, medicinal herbs, and supplements.
Topical application
To use Willard Water topically, dilute 1 teaspoon concentrate in 1 quart water or use 2 tablespoons per gallon. Use this solution as a wash or rinse to clean and treat cuts, burns, wounds, or abrasions. Pour it directly on the affected area or use a spray bottle. Repeat the application several times per day.
Diluted Willard Water is said to be as effective in reducing pain in animals as it is in humans. Spray or apply it to sprains, bruises, trauma injuries, arthritic joints, and any area that is swollen or tender.
Wendy Volhard swears by Willard Water as a hot spot treatment. “It dries up the inflamed areas overnight,” she says. “I also spray it on cuts to stop the bleeding and on insect bites to reduce the swelling and irritation.”
An easy way to treat injured paw pads is to briefly soak the affected foot in a bowl or pan of diluted Willard Water, then let it air-dry.
To create a compress, soak a washcloth in the dilute solution and hold it in place for several minutes, or secure it with a wrapped towel or bandage. Repeat the treatment two or three times per day.
You can increase the effectiveness of any herbal compress or wash by brewing the herbal tea in a dilute solution of Willard Water, or simply add ½ teaspoon Willard Water concentrate to each pint (2 cups) of tea. You can add ¼ teaspoon Willard Water concentrate to 1 cup (8 ounces) of any aromatherapy hydrosol (See “Essential Information,” January 2005) to make the hydrosol more effective. Spray the treated hydrosol full-strength or add a teaspoon or a tablespoon to your dog’s drinking water.
To improve your dog’s coat, spray it with diluted Willard Water or treated hydrosol before brushing or grooming. Willard Water helps prevent dander, freshens the coat, and helps most dogs smell better.
Increase the effectiveness of your dog’s shampoo by mixing ¼ cup shampoo with 1 cup diluted Willard Water. According to users who reported their results to Dr. Willard, this actually helps calm excitable or nervous show animals.
Use this mixture to scrub, rinse, reapply, and rinse again. If you use a conditioner, which may no longer be necessary, mix it at the same proportions. Finish with a final rinse of dilute Willard Water solution, an herbal tea made with diluted Willard Water, or a solution of 1 tablespoon hydrosol in 1 quart diluted Willard Water. A caution for humans: Willard Water added to shampoo, conditioner, or rinse water has stripped color from some dyed hair.
To treat any eye condition, spray diluted Willard Water directly into the dog’s eye. Willard Water helps clear up conjunctivitis and other infections, and it’s an effective first-aid rinse for the removal of debris. Clear Willard Water concentrate is usually recommended for use in the eyes, but many users report excellent results from rinsing or spraying eyes with dark Willard Water solutions. If desired, add a pinch of unrefined sea salt to make the solution slightly salty. Tears are saline, and adding a small amount of salt makes the solution more comfortable.
Whenever you brush your dog’s teeth or give her a tooth-cleaning rope toy to chew on, spray the toothbrush or toy with diluted Willard Water.
Diluted Willard Water can be used as an ear cleaner, too. Or you can add a few drops of full-strength concentrate to any liquid ear cleaner. Willard Water helps the solution reach farther and loosen wax and debris.
Cleaning green
In addition to adding Willard Water to shampoos and conditioners, you can add it to any soap or cleanser, making housecleaning a safe, pet-friendly activity.
In 1991, shortly before Dr. Willard’s death at age 84, I corresponded with him about Willard Water’s effect on chlorine. He confirmed that extensive laboratory testing proved that small amounts of Willard Water neutralize or destroy chlorine. In fact, he warned against adding Willard Water to any load of laundry using chlorine bleach. “The bleach won’t work,” he said.
In reply to my questions about whether Willard Water concentrate would help preserve raw milk, he recommended adding 1 ounce per gallon. “We discovered this with an old Swiss cheese maker. Milk tastes richer and keeps fresh longer. You can do the same with raw juices.”
-A long-time contributor to WDJ and author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs & Cats, and other books, CJ Puotinen lives in New York with her husband, a Lab, and a tabby cat.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”