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How To Build Strong Bonds

By
Editorial Staff
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Play with Your Dog Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpt from Play With Your Dog by Pat Miller

Everyone in the family, including children, should play with their dogs. Even young children can be suitable playmates for many dogs, with some important caveats. Assuming your dog likes to play, the more humans she gets to play with, the more humans she’ll think are wonderful because they make good stuff happen, and the better socialized she’ll be. Dogs who are will-socialized are far less likely to bite or otherwise engage in behaviors that are likely to get them into serious trouble.

In addition, the more that each family member has fun interacting with the dog, the more likely it is that the dog will stay in that home for her entire life. Play helps build strong bonds, and relationships that support lifelong loving homes for canine family members.

For ideas and advice on the best ways to play with your dog and the benefits to both you and your dog, purchase Pat Miller’s book, Play With Your Dog from Whole Dog Journal.

Canine Play Styles

By
Editorial Staff
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Play with Your Dog Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpt from Play With Your Dog by Pat Miller

Your best option for finding compatible playmates for your dog is to identify your dog’s play style and select dogs of similar size, energy level, and play style preference.

Size matters. No doubt there are dogs of significant size disparity who can play well together, but as a general rule, it’s wise to keep the difference in the realm of 25 pounds or less. A playful dog can easily injure a little dog, even without intent to do harm, simply by running over or jumping on the smaller dog. Of even greater concern is a phenomenon known as predatory drift in which something from a dog’s evolutionary past triggers the larger dog’s brain to perceive the smaller dog as a prey object – a bunny or squirrel – instead of the canine pal he’s played happily with for months or years. Often the trigger is the smaller dog running, yelping, or squealing. The bigger dog gives chase, and tragedy ensues.

To avoid this, good dog parks offer—and enforce—separate play areas for smaller dogs, and wise owners of small dogs don’t allow them to romp with canines who are considerably larger. Owners of big dogs sometimes mock owners of toy breeds for their “overprotectiveness,” but the risk is very real. There are plenty of examples of small dogs, especially tough small dogs (Jack Russells come to mind) who routinely hold their own with larger playmates, and lots of tiny dogs live long and happy lives with much larger dogs.

My own 8-pound Pomeranian shared his life unscathed with dogs in our family as much as ten times his size—although Dusty didn’t really play with his large siblings; it was more like a peaceful coexistence. If you’re actively lookingfor playmates for your dog, however, it’s safest to keep size cautions in mind, as well as play styles.

For more ideas and advice on the best ways to play with your dog and the benefits to both you and your dog, download Pat Miller’s ebook, Play With Your Dog from Whole Dog Journal.

Tug Games

By
Editorial Staff
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Play with Your Dog Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpt from Play With your Dog by Pat Miller

The game of Tug has an undeserved bad rap in some training circles, while others, most notably the Agility world, have fully embraced it as an excellent activity to create focus and high arousal. Those two extremes aside, it’s a great game just because it’s fun, many dogs adore it, it’s the perfect play activity for human family members who might otherwise want to get in appropriately physical with the dog and it’s a terrific energy-burner.

One of the most commonly-heard myths about playing Tug is that it makes the dog “dominant.” There’s so much misinformation passed around about hierarchy in dogs – this is just another log on the fire. If you are concerned about what Tug might do to your relationship with your dog, just remember that the definition of leader is “the one who controls the good stuff,” and orchestrate your Tug-play accordingly.

I’m solidly in the pro-Tug camp. I strongly recommend setting rules for canine and human players of the game to protect against the possibility of reinforcing unwanted behaviors, but with those in place, you and your dog can Tug to your hearts’ content. The rules are general guidelines for making Tug a positive training/relationship experience. The calmer and better-behaved your dog is, the less necessary it is to follow them strictly. The more rowdy and out of control your dog, the more closely you will want to adhere to them. By the way, don’t be alarmed by your dog’s growls during tug – it’s all part of the game. As long as his other behaviors are appropriate, let him growl his heart out!

For more ideas and advice on the best ways to play with your dog and the benefits to both you and your dog, purchase Pat Miller’s book, Play With Your Dog from Whole Dog Journal.

The Best Dog Toys for Serious Chewers

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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An adorable brown dog gnaws on a hard plastic toy.
: Finding toys that will stand up to serious chewing can be a difficult task. Credit: davidf | Getty Images

Are you in need of some indestructible dog toys to keep your furry monster entertained? I’m right there with you. While no toy is truly indestructible, there are products out there that can provide your dog with a safe and durable challenge.

When to Take a Toy Away

Even the best “indestructible” dog toys will one day succumb to the efforts of our fluffy destroyers. Here are some guidelines for how to ensure your dog’s playtime is safe, plus when to throw a toy away:

  1. Supervise play with all toys to be sure your dog doesn’t accidentally chew off and swallow part of a toy.
  2. Pick up any small toy bits, stuffing, and squeakers immediately so that your dog doesn’t accidentally swallow them.

Throw toys away when their structure has been compromised

Things to Look For

Here are some qualities to keep in mind when choosing nearly indestructible dog toys for your pup:

  • No small parts
  • Has some give—not brittle
  • Has some heft
  • Minimal seams
  • Appropriate size for your dog

No Small Parts

Small parts and pieces are just begging to be chewed off. If a toy has legs, horns, tentacles, or any other small projection, your dog will be able to easily fit it in the back of his mouth and saw it off with his carnassials and molars.

Also skip plastic eyes and noses. These parts are easy for any experienced canine surgeon to remove, which both creates a swallowing risk and exposes a weak point for the dog to dismantle the entire toy.

If your dog likes rope toys, keep an eye out for fraying threads. Chewed-off fibers are a choking hazard and could potentially cause an intestinal obstruction.

Resilient Dog Toy Material

The ideal toy for your master chewer should yield a little to chomps. Brittle toys are problematic for two reasons: first, they can shatter and create sharp edges that could harm your dog, and second, an unyielding chewing surface can break teeth.

Test toys with your fingernail. If you can mark the surface, it will likely yield to dog teeth. If you can’t, it is probably too hard.

For balls, you want the ball to collapse a little when squeezed, but then bounce back into shape. A round ball will last much longer than a collapsed one that creates folds for your dog to gain purchase on.

Heft

Flimsy toys don’t last long with chewers. Skip the dollar bin toys—thin rubber and gauzy fabric aren’t going to cut it.

Dense rubbery toys that feel a little heavy for their size are my favorites for chewers, as well as squeaky toys with a thick outer fabric.

Minimal Seams

Seams are weak points. One of my dogs systematically checks the seams on a new toy to identify the weakest spot and then proceeds to gut the toy. Fewer seams mean fewer opportunities for disembowelment.

Appropriate Size

The ideal toy for our heavy chewers is small enough for the dog to get in their mouth, but too big to get to the back of the mouth easily.

A toy that is too small can be lodged between your dog’s saw-like carnassial teeth and molars—game over. Tiny toys can also pose a choking hazard or swallowing risk.

A toy that is too big is impossible to grab or chew at all, and may frustrate or annoy your dog, causing him to ignore it.

The Best Indestructible Dog Toys

Here are some of the most long-lasting toys:

West Paw Rumpus

This toy has it all: compact, dense, resilient, tooth-friendly, not a seam to be seen, and comes in multiple sizes. It also floats and bounces and is made in the U.S. from non-toxic materials.

My Rumpus has served two years with a pack of three avid chewers.

West Paw Toppl and Rumbl

The Toppl and Rumbl are both treat-dispensing toys that can be filled with treats or dog food to keep your dog entertained. Freeze food inside for an added challenge for your pup.

I have Toppls of every size both to accommodate different snack sizes and to fit them together for an added challenge.

The Rumbl has been popular as a ball substitute even after my dogs get all of the goodies out.

The best part? They’re top-rack dishwasher safe for easy cleaning.

Planet Dog Balls by Outward Hound

If your dog is ball-crazy, these are the toys for you! Planet Dog balls are the only balls I trust my dogs to play with without direct supervision. They have enough give that they are fun to chomp and won’t damage teeth, but instantly bounce back into shape so your dog can’t rip off chunks.

These balls come in many variations. Smooth-surfaced options are the hardiest overall. The continents can be removed on the Earth balls, but are soft and nontoxic. The Orbee-Tuff material also smells minty fresh.

GoughNuts Rings

GoughNuts makes rubber toys in a variety of shapes and toughness levels. The colored rings are pretty darn sturdy and the black ones are the sturdiest of all. These toys are also made in the U.S.

One really cool thing about this company is that their chew toys have a red inner layer to indicate when the toy has been damaged—if the red layer is exposed, it is time to retire that toy.

Mighty Dog Toys

The Mighty Dog stuffed toys—such as Mighty Dog Toys Penny the Penguin or Mighty Dog Toys Herb the Hippo—are some of the toughest stuffed squeaky toys. These toys put up a decent fight for our canine toy destroyers.

In my experience, if one of these stuffed toys survives the first 5-10 minutes of play, it will be around for a while. If my dogs breach a seam, I remove the stuffing and squeaker and the “skin” still provides plenty of play and fun for weeks longer.

GoDog Dinos and Dragons Plush Dog Toys

These adorable squeaky toy collections don’t look as hefty as some stuffed toys, but the GoDog dinos and dragons hold up to some serious abuse thanks to their special reinforced lining. Several of them grace my dogs’ toy box!

Can Dogs Get Herpes?

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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Dogs can get herpes, and have their own form of canine herpes that is often fatal for puppies.
Young puppies are the most susceptible to canine herpes, which is often fatal to them. Credit: Mumemories | Getty Images

Dogs can get herpes, and have their own form of the herpes virus. Canine herpesvirus—also known as canine herpes—is a disease that is nearly 100% fatal in young puppies. It does not typically cause serious illness in older puppies and adult dogs. This virus is found worldwide. Canine herpesvirus only infects dogs and cannot infect humans.

 

How Do Dogs Get Canine Herpesvirus?

Canine herpesvirus is transmitted between dogs and puppies through direct contact with ocular, nasal, oral, or vaginal secretions. Nose-to-nose contact and sexual transmission are the usual routes of infection. This virus does not survive long in the environment and is easily killed by disinfectants.

After the initial infection, dogs become carriers of canine herpesvirus for life. They may experience periods of recrudescence (shedding of the virus). These dogs can transmit the virus to other dogs and puppies when they are actively shedding the virus in their tears or other secretions.

Puppies Are Extremely Susceptible

A pregnant dog that is exposed to canine herpesvirus in the last three weeks of her pregnancy may transmit the virus to her unborn puppies. These puppies may be delivered stillborn. Puppies that are born alive will often die within the first few days of life.

Puppies that are exposed to canine herpesvirus in the first three weeks of life are the most likely to die from this disease. Canine herpesvirus is able to replicate rapidly in a puppy whose body temperature is cool (about 95 degrees Fahrenheit).

Puppies younger than three weeks of age are unable to maintain their own body temperature. They rely on their mother, the additive warmth of their litter mates, and a warm cozy environment to maintain a normal body temperature between 96 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Puppies less than three weeks old that are not kept sufficiently warm are at the highest risk of dying from canine herpesvirus.

Symptoms of Canine Herpesvirus

Puppies younger than three weeks of age may develop a bloated belly, difficulty breathing, weakness, and be cool to the touch. This illness is painful and they will cry inconsolably. Death comes quickly, usually within 24-48 hours of becoming ill.

Adult dogs and puppies older than three weeks of age may develop signs of an upper respiratory infection, including coughing, sneezing, and nasal discharge. Signs of conjunctivitis—such as teary eyes, green or yellow ocular discharge, squinting, or corneal ulcers—may also develop. Blisters on the vulva of female dogs or the prepuce of male dogs may be observed.

Symptoms in adult dogs are typically mild and resolve without complications. Puppies older than three weeks of age may see their upper respiratory symptoms progress into a potentially life-threatening bronchopneumonia. Adult dogs that have been exposed to other viral or bacterial infections at the same time may also develop bronchopneumonia that can become serious or fatal.

Some adult dogs may become infected with canine herpesvirus but are asymptomatic. This means that they have no symptoms of illness when they become infected.

Survivors of canine herpesvirus will become carriers of the virus for life. The virus hides and lies dormant in the trigeminal nerve of the face and in lymph nodes and salivary glands. Viral replication and shedding will begin during periods of stress or illness—this is called recrudescence. Dogs that are receiving immunosuppressive doses of prednisone may also begin shedding the virus.

Carrier dogs that are experiencing recrudescence may squint one or both eyes and have increased tear production. They may sneeze and have nasal discharge. Some may develop corneal ulcers. And then there are dogs that are actively shedding the virus but have no symptoms at all!

Any dog that is actively shedding the virus can transmit canine herpesvirus to puppies and other dogs. This includes dogs that are showing symptoms of canine herpesvirus, dogs that are acutely infected but asymptomatic, and carrier dogs that are actively shedding the virus in their oral, nasal, and ocular secretions.

Diagnosis

Canine herpesvirus can be diagnosed with a simple blood test. A blood sample from your dog can be submitted to an outside laboratory for a PCR test. It can take several days to run this test, so your veterinarian may begin treatment for canine herpesvirus before knowing the results of the test.

A puppy that dies acutely for an unknown reason can undergo a necropsy to help determine the cause of death. A necropsy is like an autopsy, but for animals instead of people. Samples from the puppy’s organs can be tested for canine herpesvirus and other infectious diseases.

Treatment for Young Puppies

Treatment for puppies less than three weeks of age that become ill with canine herpesvirus is typically unsuccessful with a nearly 100% fatality rate. The following interventions may be able to save the remaining puppies in a litter that have not yet become ill:

  • Keep all of the puppies warm with a body temperature between 96 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. You can achieve this by making sure their environment stays a toasty 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the first 4 days of life. The ambient temperature can be gradually lowered to 80 degrees Fahrenheit by 7 to 10 days of age and then gradually to 72 degrees by the start of the fifth week of life. Keeping them warm will lower the replication rate of the virus inside their bodies. Use warming devices made for puppies, such as incubators or heat lamps. Do not use heating pads made for people as this may cause thermal burns.
  • Serum from an adult dog that has antibodies against canine herpesvirus can be administered to each puppy. This provides them with antibodies that can fight a canine herpesvirus infection.
  • There is limited evidence that antiviral medications—such as famciclovir and acyclovir—are effective against canine herpesvirus. Not much is known about effective dosages and potential adverse effects of these medications. Use them with caution and only under the direction of a veterinarian.

Treatment for Dogs and Older Puppies

Treatment for dogs and puppies older than three weeks of age is largely supportive. Symptoms and complications are treated as necessary. Dogs and puppies with corneal ulcers caused by canine herpesvirus may benefit from ophthalmic antiviral medications, such as idoxuridine, trifluridine, or cidofovir.

Prevention

Canine herpesvirus is easily transmitted between dogs and rarely causes serious illness in adult dogs and mature puppies. The only way to truly prevent your dog from getting canine herpesvirus is for your dog to never have contact with other dogs. This is just not possible nor advisable.

Prevention tactics are aimed at the most vulnerable of our population—young puppies and puppies not yet born. Pregnant dogs should be isolated from other dogs in the last three weeks of their pregnancy. Puppies and their mothers should be isolated from other dogs in the first three weeks following whelping.

There is no vaccine for canine herpesvirus currently available in the United States. A vaccine has been available in Europe since 2001.

Complementary Therapies To Help Your Dog’s Arthritis

By
Editorial Staff
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Pain Relief for Canine Arthritis eBook from Whole Dog Journal
The black dog lies quietly during the laser beam treatment. A physiotherapist performs laser therapy on a dog.

There are many wonderful complementary treatments for dogs with OA. None will cure or heal the arthritic joint, but a combination of treatments can very well restore vitality and decrease discomfort, making a happy walk in the park a reality once again.

Omega-3 fatty acids, glucosamine and chondroitin, and avocado and soybean unsaponifiables (ASU) can all work to slow joint degeneration. The combination of these over several months can improve function and decrease pain. Can also be used as preventive.

Turmeric and curcumin together are a potent anti-inflammatory.

Adequan is a synthetic, injectable medication, available by veterinary prescription only. It’s thought to help increase the viscosity of the synovial fluid, which acts as the lubricant in a joint. It may be administered subcutaneously or intramuscularly. One school of thought is that the earlier Adequan is administered, the better it will modulate the arthritic progression.

Hydrotherapy is ideal for arthritic dogs. The buoyancy of the water takes weight off the joints, allowing movement without pain and building strength in muscles that otherwise may become atrophied.

Acupuncture is widely accepted by conventional veterinary practitioners, as it is highly effective at reducing pain and the heat that goes along with inflammation. Many dogs relax and fall asleep during treatment and there can be a noticeable improvement in function.

Laser therapy can penetrate deeply, down to a cellular level, depending on the type of laser used. At its most powerful, it exponentially increases circulation and works to repair damaged tissue. It is a highly effective pain and inflammation reducer.

Practiced under the supervision of a veterinarian and/or physical therapist at canine rehabilitation facilities, strength-building, balance, and conditioning exercises are the ultimate in helping your arthritic friend.

Conventional veterinary treatments include NSAIDS and steroids. These can be highly effective, but given in high doses or for long periods of time, they can cause serious side effects. Consider these as “heavy artillery” and reserve their use for severe cases and when none of the gentler therapies can relieve your dog’s pain. Also, make sure you and your veterinarian follow through with regular blood tests, to monitor whether the drugs are compromising your dog’s liver function.

Don’t forget massage therapy! It can provide relief and improves the healing of soft tissues that are irritated or inflamed, breaks up scar tissue that may form around arthritic joints, relieves stiffness, and promotes better flexibility and range of motion.

To learn more about the many ways to help your dog live better with arthritis, buy Pain Relief for Canine Arthritis from Whole Dog Journal.

Location Guarding

By
Editorial Staff
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Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpt from Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs by Jean Donaldson

Dogs may guard food and/or food bowl, coveted toys or objects, their owners, or choice sleeping locations. Dogs often present with more than one kind of guarding and may also have body-handling problems. Of course, resource guarders may happen to also have any of a number of other behavior problems, but the most common constellation will involve guarding more than one kind of resource and being uncomfortable about certain kinds of body handling.

Location Guarding

The most common location guarding scenarios are:

  • A dog who won’t let the owner or a spouse into the bed or bedroom once the dog is lying on the bed
  • A who is grumpy and aggressive when jostled on
  • A dog who threatens passersby and/or dogs when he is in his crate or car

An interesting feature of all resource guarding is that its severity may not only be tied to the value of the resource, but also to who is approaching. Location guarding, such as a dog who seems to let the wife but not the husband in the bed, is a prime example.

For more types of resource guarding, ways to recognize them and modify this behavior purchase the book Mine! from Whole Dog Journal.

The Challenge of Defusing Intra-Pack Aggression

By
Editorial Staff
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Managing A Multi-Dog Household eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpt from Managing A Multi-Dog Household by Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, CDBC

Aggression Modification

My first choice with most clients is this: changing the dogs’ opinion of each other through counterconditioning and desensitization (CC&D).

CC&D for intra-pack aggression involves changing your dogs’ association with each other from negative to positive. The easiest way to give most dogs a positive association is with very high-value, really yummy treats. I like to use chicken – canned, baked, or boiled, since most dogs love chicken and it’s a low-fat, low-calorie food.

Here’s how the CC&D process works:

  1. Determine the distance at which your dogs can be in each other’s presence and be alert or wary but not extremely fearful or aroused. This is called the threshold distance. If one dog has a greater threshold hold distance than the other (often the case), work at the greater distance.
  2. With you holding Dog A on leash, have your helper appear with Dog B at threshold distance “X.” The instant your dog sees the other, start feeding bits of chicken, non-stop. Your helper will feed chicken to her dog, too, the instant he notices your dog.
  3. After several seconds, have the helper step out of sight with Dog B, and you both stop feeding chicken.
  4. Keep repeating steps 1-3 until the sight of the other dog at distance “X” consistently causes both dogs to look at their handlers with a happy smile and a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” expression. This is the physical presentation of the dogs’ conditioned emotional response (CER); each dog’s association with the other at threshold distance “X” is now positive, so they can deliberately look at you to get their chicken, rather than staying intensely focused on each other.
  5. Now you need to increase the intensity of the stimulus by increasing the length of time Dog B stays in sight. Continue to feed chicken when they are in view of each, occasionally pausing to let them look at each other again, and immediately feeding chicken when they do.
  6. When length of time seems to make no difference to either dog – you’re getting a consistent “Yay, where’s my chicken?” response regardless of how long Dog B stays in view, increase the intensity again, this time by increasing Dog B’s movement. Have the handler walk back and forth with her dog, still at distance “X,” slowly at first, then with more energy, even adding in some other behaviors such as sit, down, and roll over.
  7. Now you’re ready to starting decreasing distance by moving Dog A a little closer to the location where the Dog B will appear. When you obtain consistent CERs from both dogs at each new distance you can decrease the distance a little more, until both dogs are happy to be very near each other.
  8. Then return to your original threshold distance and increase intensity stimulus by having Dog B move around more and more, as you gradually decrease distance and obtain CERs from both dogs along the way, until they are delighted to be near each other.
  9. Now go back to your starting distance and increase intensity again, by having both dogs move more naturally as the distance decreases, offering CERs at each new distance before you come any closer, until they can be within six feet of each other, moving around, still relaxed and happy about chicken.
  10. Finally, find ways for your dogs to engage separately in mutually enjoyable activities together. If they both enjoy car rides, take them for a drive, but be sure they are seat-belted or crated far enough apart to avoid any tension. If they love hiking, take them on “parallel” walks, one with you, one with your training partner, with humans between them at first, and eventually with dogs between humans when you’re sure their emotions are appropriate. Parallel swims, for dogs who love the water, can work well too.

When you feel the dogs are ready to finally interact with each other again, be careful not to undo all your hard work. You might first let them greet through a barrier, such as a baby gate or exercise pen.

Need more help managing your multi-dog household? Check out Whole Dog Journal’s exclusive ebook Managing a Multi-Dog Household.

5 Best Dog Friendly Vacations

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Parks and outdoor areas make for dog friendly vacations.
Ship Harbor, located in Maine’s Acadia National Park, is a great spot to explore with your dog. Credit: Kate Basedow

Ready for a vacation but don’t want to leave your dog behind? Dog friendly vacations take a little more planning, but many destinations boast lodging that allows dogs, outdoor dining options, and activities that you and your dog can enjoy together. I know my dogs love seeing me pack up their food and their favorite toys!

So, if you’re looking for the best dog friendly vacations or some spots for dog friendly weekend getaways, here are some great spots!

Acadia National Park

If you are looking for a good hike to take with your dog, head for the summit of Gorham Mountain. Credit: Kate Basedow

This incredible park in Maine is not only one of the best dog friendly vacations, but can be done on a budget! Camping is the way to go to enjoy this stunning chunk of Maine’s coastline.

Hotels fill up fast for the peak summer season and can get quite pricey. Camping, on the other hand, will only set you back about $30 a night ($60 if you will have several tents grouping together in a large campsite).

My personal favorite is Seawall Campground because you are within walking distance of the ocean—there’s nothing like being lulled to sleep by the waves! Our two dogs enjoyed lounging by the campfire and then taking a moonlit stroll out to the beach to stargaze.

During the day, drive to your chosen hiking and exploring spots. Here are some of the sights and activities my dogs enjoyed:

  • Gorham Mountain—a fun hike even if you aren’t a serious hiker with amazing ocean views. The trail is mostly on large rocks and would be too much for a puppy. Don’t forget water for your dogs!
  • Schoodic Point—a bit of a drive from the main part of the park, but well worth it for the big flat rocks, open ocean, and a chance to spot some whales or dolphins.
  • Ship Harbor—easy flat walking paths and a great spot to wade and play in the water.
  • Otter Cove—another great place to play in the water. It also has some of the best cell service on the island—perfect for uploading photos of your dog on vacation.

If you’re going to be on the coast, you have to eat at a fish or lobster shack. Nothing beats fresh seafood! Most of these spots have picnic tables where your dog can join you.

Bruce Peninsula National Park

This gem is another great option for a dog camping trip. Bruce Peninsula National Park is up in Canada, so any human travelers from the U.S. will need a passport and canine travelers will need a rabies certificate (check before you travel for any additional requirements). Camping in the park offers the usual options plus yurts that can be reserved year-round.

Georgian Bay on the eastern side of the peninsula has crystal clear water. The body of Lake Huron on the western side tends to be warmer for swimming.

Spots in the park and rest of the peninsula to check out with your dog include:

  • Singing Sands—an incredible sandy beach with extensive shallows perfect for wading and playing! There is also a boardwalk trail with educational signs about the animals and plants that call this area home.
  • Georgian Bay Trail—an easy walk from the campground through the woods and past small lakes that leads to Indian Head Cove and the Grotto. Both of these are beautiful photo spots. Watch out for the biting flies though!
  • Little Cove Provincial Park—a beautiful cove with a rock and pebble beach perfect for paddle boarding and swimming. Reserve parking ahead of time and keep your dog on leash at all times to protect wildlife. Little Cove is also one of the spots on the Bruce Trail, which runs from Tobermory all the way to Niagara.

Tobermory Brewing Company and Grill welcomes dogs on their outdoor patio. Looking for a tasty sandwich to bring on a hike? We stopped at the Foodland on Route 6 every day of our visit.

The Finger Lakes and Ithaca, New York

I’m a little biased because I lived in this area for four years, but it is a wonderful place to visit with dogs!

Here are some great spots to check out with your dog:

  • Taughannock Falls State Park—a nice walking trail and an amazing waterfall! You can also enjoy a typical park with picnic tables, playgrounds, and lots of open grass across the road—not to mention Cayuga Lake.
  • Buttermilk Falls State Park—these trails are a bit more effort, but well worth it to view the stunning waterfalls.
  • Ithaca Falls Natural Area—easy access to a beautiful waterfall. In college, my dog and I loved to sit and read by the waterfall during the summer.
  • Long Point State Park—another great spot to play in the water plus plenty of picnic tables to enjoy a leisurely afternoon. The docks are also a popular fishing spot.
  • South Hill Cider—a beautiful cidery near Buttermilk Falls that offers cider tastings, cheese boards, smoked meat sandwiches (plus falafel for vegetarians), and music nights throughout the summer. Dogs are welcome in the outdoor areas.

My favorite place to stay when visiting Ithaca is the Best Western University Inn. Be sure to grab breakfast at Collegetown Bagels right next door in East Hill Plaza! They offer the same menu as the original CTB down next to Cornell University’s campus but with the convenience of an actual parking lot.

On the topic of Cornell, the campus is dog friendly and a beautiful place to walk. The iconic Arts Quad is a must-see spot, and then you can make your way over to the Cornell Botanic Gardens to enjoy mature trees, flower gardens, sculptures, and a lily pond.

If you’re a wine lover, the Seneca Lake Wine Trail and Cayuga Lake Wine Trail don’t disappoint. Many of the wineries welcome dogs with a special shoutout to Boundary Breaks which even has a fenced area for dogs to run!

On the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail, Americana Vineyards and Swedish Hill Winery both have a special place in my heart. Be sure to say hello to the resident farm animals at Swedish Hill, though it may be best to keep your dog out of reach.

Agate Beach, Oregon

You and your dogs can play on by the water at the Agate Beach State Recreation Area. Credit: Kate Basedow

This spot would make a perfect dog friendly weekend getaway or you could make it one stop on a longer tour of the northwest.

Start your trip by booking one of the dog friendly suites at the Agate Beach Motel in Newport. This lovely little motel is right on the ocean and offers cozy accommodations and a sun deck with each suite.

Then take your dog to the Agate Beach State Recreation Area and you are all set for a relaxing weekend. This huge sandy beach offers plenty of space for dogs to play on and off leash. It is easy to spend hours strolling on the sand, investigating tide pools, and listening to the birds and waves.

Another neat spot is the Devil’s Punchbowl State Natural Area. This unique landmark was probably created when the top of a system of underwater caves collapsed resulting in a large “bowl” that fills and empties with the tides.

Restaurants with dog friendly patios in nearby Newport include The Taphouse at Nye Creek, Rogue Bayfront Public House, Nana’s Irish Pub, and South Beach Fish Market.

Flagstaff, Arizona

While I haven’t been there myself (yet), Flagstaff has a fantastic reputation as being a dog-friendly destination.

Places to stay:

  • La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Flagstaff—located right off I-40, this hotel is modern and offers free breakfast (for human guests, though you could bring some eggs back to the room for your dog).
  • High Country Motor Lodge—this hotel has designated dog friendly rooms and allows dogs to stay in the room unattended as long as they are in crates and well behaved (no barking or howling!). There is also a dog park nearby.
  • And many more! If you have some reward member points for a particular hotel chain, see if they have a Flagstaff location and if it honors the dog friendly attitude of the city.

Things to do:

  • Bright Side Bookshop—an independent community bookstore where well-behaved, leashed dogs are welcome.
  • Riordan Mansion State Historic Park—dogs can’t go inside the mansion but can stroll the grounds.
  • The Arboretum at Flagstaff—a stunning 200-acre conservation area with walking trails to enjoy the nature and plant life of northern Arizona. The current dog admission fee is $2 which I think is kind of adorable and well worth it to encourage the venue to continue to allow dogs.
  • Arizona Nordic Village—a great place to hike in the summer and ski or snowshoe in the winter.
  • Historic downtown Flagstaff—stroll down Leroux St. where many of the shops and restaurants have dog-friendly patios or allow well-behaved canine shoppers.

Places to eat:

  • Mother Road Brewing Company—sliders and other tasty tidbits from a food truck, plus of course the beer!
  • Satchmo’s—barbecue and Cajun food.
  • Josephine’s Modern American Bistro—a diverse menu and brunch on the weekends.

Shoutout to Love’s Truck Stops

If you’re on a cross-country road trip with your dog, keep an eye out for Love’s truck stops. Many of these have dog parks so your pup can have a chance to run and take care of business off leash. In my experience, these fenced areas have been clean and secure, perfect if you are traveling with young dogs who need to let off some steam.

A Guide to Dog Allergy Medications

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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5
Dog allergy medication can help with a dog's constant itchiness, and other symptoms.
There are a number of medications that can provide relief for dogs experiencing symptoms related to allergies. Credit: Wavetop | Getty Images

There are several manifestations of allergies in dogs, including atopic and flea allergy dermatitis, allergic rhinitis and bronchitis, hives, and insect bite hypersensitivity. Symptoms may include pruritus (itchiness), sneezing, coughing, clear nasal discharge, or raised welts on the skin.

Pruritus due to hives and insect bite hypersensitivity are caused by the release of histamine and other inflammatory mediators. Over-the-counter dog allergy medications like antihistamines are typically effective at relieving this form of itchiness. More severe cases may require the addition of a glucocorticoid to reduce inflammation.

Using Glucocorticoids to Treat Atopic Dermatitis

There was a time when glucocorticoids were the primary form of treatment in relieving pruritus (itchiness) associated with atopic dermatitis. Glucocorticoids are effective for this purpose but come at a price.

Glucocorticoids may increase your dog’s thirst and hunger. When they drink more water, they naturally have to urinate more often. This can lead to urinary accidents in the house. They may pant for no apparent reason and act lethargic.

Long-term chronic use of glucocorticoids can cause thinning of the skin and haircoat. Dogs may develop comedones (black heads) of their skin, particularly on the underside of their belly. Wounds may take longer to heal. Muscle wasting may occur because of catabolic changes to their metabolism. Dogs may become obese due to increased appetite and caloric intake. There is an increased risk of developing bacterial or fungal infections, adult-onset demodectic mange, and diabetes mellitus.

Today, there are many alternative and equally effective medications that relieve the pruritus associated with atopic dermatitis. These medications are generally safer than glucocorticoids when used long-term. However, there may still be instances when glucocorticoids are an appropriate choice to manage pruritus.

The following principles should be followed when using a glucocorticoid to treat your dog’s pruritus:

  1. Any underlying disease that is contributing to your dog’s pruritus should be identified and treated. Using a glucocorticoid without completing a diagnostic workup first can mask an underlying disease and make your dog’s overall condition worse.
  2. The least potent glucocorticoid should be used at the lowest effective dose for the shortest amount of time necessary to control your dog’s symptoms.
  3. Your dog should be rechecked by your veterinarian at regular intervals while taking a glucocorticoid.

Allergic rhinitis and bronchitis may be responsive to the antihistamine cetirizine (commonly known as Zyrtec). Coughing due to allergic bronchitis may require an antihistamine and glucocorticoid combination, such as trimeprazine and prednisolone (Temaril-P).

Itchy skin associated with atopic and flea allergy dermatitis is not always responsive to antihistamines. Medications that target specific itch receptors in the skin may provide dogs with more complete relief from their pruritus than antihistamines. See the article “Allergies in Dogs” (WDJ website) for more information on other treatments that may help your dog.

The following is an information guide to many of the common medications that are used to treat allergy symptoms in dogs.

Cetirizine

Common trade name: Zyrtec

Drug class: Antihistamine (non-drowsy)

Indicated for: Hives, insect bite hypersensitivity, allergic rhinitis and bronchitis. Not shown to be effective for atopic dermatitis.

Contraindications: None.

Potential side effects: Vomiting, hypersalivation

Formulations available: Available over-the-counter as tablets, chewable tablets, oral solution, and gel capsules. Avoid using oral disintegrating tablets as this formulation may contain xylitol which is a known toxin in dogs. Avoid using combination products that contain pseudoephedrine.

Clemastine

Common trade name: Dayhist

Drug class: Antihistamine

Indicated for: Hives, insect bite hypersensitivity, atopic dermatitis

Contraindications: Use with caution in dogs with glaucoma or heart disease and in male dogs with an enlarged prostate.

Potential side effects: Lethargy, hyperexcitability, dry mouth

Formulations available: Available over-the-counter as tablets and oral solution.

Chlorpheniramine

Common trade name: Chlor-trimeton

Drug class: Antihistamine

Indicated for: Hives, insect bite hypersensitivity, atopic dermatitis

Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs that have glaucoma, high blood pressure (hypertension), or heart disease.

Potential side effects: Lethargy, diarrhea, vomiting, constipation, loss of appetite, dry mouth

Formulations available: Available over-the-counter as tablets. Avoid using extended-release tablets as this formulation may contain sodium benzoate, a known toxin in dogs. Avoid using any of the available syrups as these formulations may contain other ingredients, including decongestants, acetaminophen (Tylenol), or antitussives, as these other ingredients may be toxic to dogs.

Diphenhydramine

Common trade name: Benadryl

Drug class: Antihistamine

Indicated for: Hives, insect bite hypersensitivity, atopic dermatitis. May prevent motion sickness or vomiting. Sometimes used as a sedative.

Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs that have glaucoma, high blood pressure (hypertension), heart disease, or seizures.

Potential side effects: Lethargy, constipation, dry mouth. Some dogs may experience paradoxical excitability rather than sleepiness.

Formulations available: Available over-the-counter as tablets, capsules, chewable tablets, gelcaps, liquid, elixir, and syrup. Also available as an injection for veterinary use only. Some liquid, elixir, and syrup formulations contain alcohol, which is toxic to dogs. Avoid using any formulation that contains other ingredients, including decongestants, acetaminophen (Tylenol), or antitussives, as these other ingredients may be toxic to dogs.

Fexofenadine

Common trade name: Allegra

Drug class: Antihistamine

Indicated for: Although this is an antihistamine, there is limited research to support its use in dogs.

Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs with the MDR-1 mutation. Other contraindications are not known due to limited research on the use of this medication in dogs.

Potential side effects: Lethargy, diarrhea, vomiting

Formulations available: Available over-the-counter as tablets, gelcaps, and suspension. Avoid using oral suspension as this formulation contains xylitol, a known toxin in dogs. Avoid using any of the formulations that contain other ingredients, including decongestants.

Hydroxyzine

Common trade name: Atarax, Vistaril

Drug class: Antihistamine

Indicated for: Hives, insect bite hypersensitivity, atopic dermatitis. Sometimes used as a sedative.

Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs that have glaucoma, high blood pressure (hypertension), heart disease, or seizures.

Potential side effects: Lethargy, constipation, dry mouth, tremors, seizures. Some dogs may experience paradoxical excitability rather than sleepiness.

Formulations available: Tablets, capsules, and syrup. All formulations require a prescription. Also available as an injection for veterinary use only.

Trimeprazine/Prednisolone

Common trade name: Temaril-P

Drug class: Antihistamine and corticosteroid

Indicated for: Atopic dermatitis, coughing

Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs with systemic fungal infections. Should be used with caution in dogs that have high blood pressure (hypertension), heart disease, kidney disease, liver disease, stomach ulcers, corneal ulcers, hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease), diabetes mellitus, or congestive heart failure. Should be used with caution in puppies.

Potential side effects: Lethargy, low blood pressure, cardiac arrhythmias, and development of hyperadrenocorticism with long-term use.

Formulations available: Tablets by prescription only.

Oclacitinib

Common trade name: Apoquel

Drug class: JAK inhibitor

Indicated for: Atopic dermatitis, flea allergy dermatitis. May also be helpful at managing some auto-immune disorders (such as pemphigus or cutaneous lupus). May help relieve pruritus associated with sarcoptic mange.

Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs less than 12 months old. Should not be used in pregnant or nursing dogs or in dogs intended for breeding. Should be used cautiously or not at all in dogs that currently have cancer or a serious infection of any kind.

Potential side effects: Vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite can be seen in some dogs—these side effects typically resolve quickly on their own. May increase susceptibility to infections. Dogs with a history of urinary tract infections (UTIs) may experience an increased occurrence of UTIs.

Formulations available: Tablets and chewable tablets by prescription only.

Lokivetmab

Common trade name: Cytopoint

Drug class: Monoclonal antibody

Indicated for: Atopic dermatitis, flea allergy dermatitis

Contraindications: No known contraindications.

Potential side effects: Vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, pain at the injection site, loss of appetite, or lameness can be seen in some dogs—these side effects typically resolve quickly on their own.

Formulations available: Injection for veterinary use only.

Cyclosporine

Common trade names: Atopica, Cyclavance, Neoral, Gengraf

Drug class: Immunosuppressive

Indicated for: Atopic dermatitis. Also used off-label for the treatment of some immune-mediated diseases.

Contraindications: Should not be used in puppies less than six months old. Should not be used in dogs with malignant cancer or that have a history of malignant cancer. Should be used with caution in dogs with diabetes mellitus or kidney disease.

Potential side effects: Vomiting, diarrhea, or loss of appetite can be seen in some dogs—these side effects typically resolve quickly on their own. May increase susceptibility to infections. Other side effects that have been seen in dogs include gingival hyperplasia (increased growth of the gums), development of diabetes mellitus, excessive fur growth or shedding, and small benign skin growths. Liver damage and blood clots are rare side effects. Dogs with a history of urinary tract infections (UTIs) may experience an increased occurrence of UTIs.

Veterinary formulations available by prescription: Capsules (Atopica) and oral solution (Cyclavance)

Human formulations that can be used in dogs by prescription: Capsules (Neoral, Gengraf) and oral solution (Neoral)

Human formulation that should NOT be used in dogs: Sandimmune (capsules and oral solution). This formulation is not bioequivalent to the other formulations available and should not be used in dogs.

Prednisone/Prednisolone, Methylprednisolone, and Dexamethasone

Common trade name: Prednisone/prednisolone has no common trade name and is available as a generic drug. Methylprednisolone may be known as Medrol, Depo-Medrol, or Solu-Medrol. Dexamethasone may be known as Azium or Dexasone.

Drug class: Glucocorticoid

Indicated for: Inflammatory conditions including atopic dermatitis, flea allergy dermatitis, hives, insect bite hypersensitivity, and allergic rhinitis and bronchitis. Also used for many other conditions, including hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s disease), immune-mediated diseases (such as immune-mediated hemolytic anemia), and cancer (such as lymphoma).

Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs with systemic fungal infections, viral infections, hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease), corneal ulcers, or gastrointestinal ulcers. Should be used with caution in dogs with congestive heart failure, high blood pressure (hypertension), liver disease, or kidney disease.

Potential side effects: Increased thirst, hunger, and urination. May also cause panting and lethargy. See sidebar for potential long-term side effects.

Formulations available: Prednisone and prednisolone are available as tablets and oral syrups/solutions. Many oral syrups/solutions contain alcohol and should be avoided in dogs. Methylprednisolone is available as tablets and as an injection for veterinary use only. Dexamethasone is available as tablets, oral solution, and as an injection for veterinary use only. All formulations require a prescription.

The Difference Between Prednisone and Prednisolone

Many drugs are metabolized in the body and converted to both active and inactive forms. Prednisone is converted by the liver into the active metabolite prednisolone. Humans and healthy dogs are readily able to make this conversion, so most pharmacists treat prednisone and prednisolone as bioequivalent drugs. They do not know that there is a difference between prednisone and prednisolone in veterinary patients. Dogs that have liver disease may not be able to readily make this conversion—these dogs may be prescribed prednisolone instead of prednisone. Incidentally, healthy cats and horses are not efficient at this conversion and should be prescribed prednisolone instead of prednisone. If your veterinarian has specifically prescribed prednisolone for your dog, it may be up to you to ensure that your pharmacist has filled the correct medication.

No Balls in the House!

By
Nancy Kerns
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3
A dog can break their teeth playing in the house.
took this photo right after Boone ran into the table. His front two teeth snapped off right at the gum line. I am hoping beyond hope that the adjacent teeth are OK.

I took a nap last week on the couch. That’s not my normal napping place, but I was reading and dozed off. When I woke up, I found Boone sprawled next to the couch and Woody curled up at my feet. And a ball on top of the blanket that I had pulled over me. Both my dogs are fetch enthusiasts; it could have been either one of them that left me the present.

I picked up the ball, threw the blanket back, and stood up, ball in my hand. Both Woody and Boone had jumped to their feet and were facing me, expectant. Not quite awake and definitely not thinking, I absent-mindedly tossed the ball toward Woody, who is a great catcher. But Boone lunged toward the ball first – and he’s not a good catcher – so the ball bounced past me toward a steel and stone side-table, with Boone in pursuit.

In fact, he pursued so hard, he smashed his face right into the edge of the steel table, and I heard a distinct “Crack!” He handed licking his lips; the contact obviously hurt. “Oh my dog!” I exclaimed and called him to me, lifting his lips to see if he had bitten his tongue or his lip. In fact, it was worse: He hit the table edge with the top teeth, and snapped off the middle two teeth right at the gum line.

This is reason 4,652 of why we don’t play with balls in the house! My poor baby! And it’s all my fault! What was I thinking?!

I’ll tell you what I was not thinking. I was not thinking about injuries that might cost thousands of dollars, but I should have been!

When dogs get break a tooth like this, it exposes the sensitive pulp in the innermost core of the teeth where blood vessels and nerves are located, causing severe pain. I immediately called my veterinarian’s office and asked, “What should I do?!” I still wasn’t awake!

I’m so grateful that my vet loves Boone (he looks very similar to one of her long-gone heart dogs). She shoehorned him into a very early morning appointment the next day to assess the broken teeth. She said immediately that the roots of those teeth will have to come out – that is, be removed surgically. And while she couldn’t schedule this for another 10 days or so, she said that might be a blessing, because it may develop that Boone smacked other teeth hard enough to crack them and/or injure the pulp. If some of the adjacent teeth are badly damaged, they may die and have to be removed also. She suggested that x-rays taken in a week or 10 days will give us more information about how those teeth fared. And in the meantime, I can give Boone medication for pain – and keep him from chewing or playing with anything that might hurt.

Some dogs with broken-off or cracked teeth refuse to play with toys or even eat. Boone has to be on death’s door to refuse food, but he did grab a rope (which was attached to my grandson’s zipline) and try to initiate a game of tug – and almost immediately yelped in pain and dropped the rope.

Our urgent care visit, with a blood test which will ensure his anesthesia will be uneventful and prescriptions for pain medications from now until surgery and more after surgery, was about $270. I have an estimate for $1,400-$2,000 for extracting at least two teeth (and perhaps more). I’ve been warned that the roots of those teeth may be an inch or longer; even though the teeth look small, their roots are long. The incision will be long and it will be painful for Boone for a while.

So, take it from me: Don’t throw – or even just casually toss! – balls in the house!

PS: After I had panicked and called my vet, I thought, “I should have looked on the WDJ site for an article about broken teeth! I know we’ve published some!” If your dog has ever broken a tooth, you may want to look them up yourself; everything I needed to know can be found in “Your Dog’s Chipped or Broken Tooth,” “Tooth Extractions in Dogs,” and “Fractured Teeth in Dogs.”

Emergency: My Dog Ate Rat Poison

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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1
A rat terrier playing in a bar where there is a chance the dog could eat rat poison if unsupervised.
Dogs playing in barns can easily get in trouble if rat poison is being used to keep unwanted rodents away. Credit: K. Thalhofer | Getty Images

If your dog ate rat poison, call ASPCA Poison Control (888) 426-4435 or Pet Poison Helpline (855)764-7661 immediately. Have your credit card ready as there is a fee, but this is typically the first thing your veterinarian is going to tell you to do anyway. Before you hang up, get your case number from the representative, then call your veterinarian with the case number and tell the office you are on your way. Alternatively, you can call your veterinarian, give them all the details and have them call Poison Control while you are on your way, but this isn’t my first recommendation.

There are a few different types of rat poison, which is why it’s vitally important to know which kind your dog ate and hopefully approximately how much. Your veterinarian and Poison Control will use this information to formulate the best plan for saving your dog.

Do NOT wait for symptoms of poisoning to appear (see below).

Rat Poison Ingestion

When a dog eats rat poison or MAY HAVE eaten it, the first step, regardless of type of poison, is to make the dog vomit as soon as possible. It’s an important part of the decontamination process. Less is always better when it comes to rat poison, so if we can get some or most of it out of there it’s a good thing.

How to Make Your Dog Vomit

If you live far away from the veterinarian’s office, consider starting the decontamination process at home. To make your dog vomit, fresh 3% hydrogen peroxide dosed at 1 ml per kg of body weight can be given by mouth and repeated in 5 to 10 minutes if no success the first time. There are 15 mls in a tablespoon. This computes to 1.5 tablespoons for a 50-pound dog. No dog, regardless of weight, should be given more than 3 tablespoons per dose.

Activated Charcoal

The second part of the decontamination process is oral administration of activated charcoal, which binds to the toxin in the gastrointestinal tract, minimizing the amount of poison that is absorbed systemically as it makes its way through the GI tract. Activated charcoal is a form of carbon that filters out toxins and is administered by your veterinarian.

Prognosis Depends on the Rat Poison

The next step and prognosis depend on which poison the dog ate and how much.

The anticoagulant rat poisons (brodifacoum, bromadiolone, diphacinone, warfarin) are treated with vitamin K, usually for several weeks.  Fortunately, this is an effective antidote. It can take 36 to 72 hours for symptoms to appear. Don’t wait for symptoms to develop. Symptoms of anticoagulant rat poison include:

  • Bruising
  • Petechial hemorrhages (red dogs on the skin)
  • Bloody urine
  • Blood in stool
  • Bleeding gums
  • Distended abdomen (internal bleeding)
  • Trouble breathing (bleeding into or around the lungs)
  • Weakness
  • Lethargy
  • Death

Unfortunately, there is no antidote for the neurotoxic rat poison (bromethalin), so you pray they didn’t eat too much. With rapid and prolonged decontamination and supportive care, some dogs will recover and survive. Symptoms of neurotoxic rat poison with high doses include (within 4 to 36 hours):

  • Drooling
  • Vomiting and diarrhea
  • Fever
  • Tremors
  • Seizures

With low doses (within 1 to 4 days) symptoms include hind-limb weakness and incoordination that progresses over seven to 10 days to depression, tremors, hind-limb paralysis, and death.

Rat poison is one of the most toxic agents found in households. Store it wisely, and keep all pets away from it.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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