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Building Healthy Bone Structure

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The bones that dog owners are most familiar with are the ones they buy for their dogs to chew; ideally, these are moist, fresh (or frozen) cattle bones, still sporting tissues that dogs can tear and gnaw off and nutritious marrow to extract. Posing a great deal more risk to a dog’s teeth are the dead, nearly fossilized bones sold in many pet supply stores.

The bones inside the living dog barely resemble the dry, brittle bones sold as recreational chews. Rather, living bone is a dynamic, vibrant organ that is in a perpetual state of flux, constantly generating and dying, accumulating and being worn away.

Living bones perform a multitude of functions. They provide scaffolding for softer tissues and offer protection to inner organs; they are the levers that create movement around joints; their inner core produces all the blood that circulates throughout the body; and, as other body cells circulate through it, the skeleton’s scaffold creates a permanent communication center for kinesthetic, neurologic, and immunologic information to be processed. The skeleton as a whole is truly a multi-tasking marvel.

Physiology and function
Bone is perfectly composed to perform its most primary function: to provide a sturdy base that allows for movement and protects and supports the body’s softer tissues. From a chemist’s viewpoint, bone could be seen as an ideal conglomerate of several kinds of materials that each have a specialized function. The resultant composite that we call bone is a substance that is much like fiberglass: firm without being too brittle, flexible and somewhat rubbery without being too bendable, firmly tied together with a strong interweave of fibrous material.

The hard part of bone is mineral – mostly salts of calcium and phosphorous. Bone’s mineral deposits ultimately align themselves so they are positioned to withstand the normal stresses placed on the dog’s moving limbs and other body parts. Healthy bones carry an extra factor of strength – enough to withstand the extra stresses of the running, jumping, and turning of an active dog. Note that this reserve of weight-bearing capacity occurs in healthy bones, and is enhanced through exercise along with proper nutrition.

For optimal performance, bone needs to be heavy or dense enough to offer protection and to withstand the loads imposed by the dog, including excessive loads, yet light enough that the dog can still move around with ease. One way this is accomplished is with structures that are nearly hollow, with material of much lesser density in the middle, offering maximal strength with minimal weight.

The mineral part of bone is mixed within a matrix of collagen, a relatively rubbery, connective tissue mostly made up of proteins. Collagen is also present in tendons and skin, and it forms the cartilage that protects bone ends as they rotate against each other. Collagen fibers are interconnected throughout the mineral portions of bone via fibrous connecting links, and the collagen and fibrous tissues are aligned in a fashion that allows bones to withstand stresses applied from all directions – an accomplishment that would fascinate a structural engineer.

Veterinary practitioners, however, are more concerned with how to maintain healthy bones, prevent abnormal bone formation, and heal bones that are diseased or fractured. We rely on the basics of bone physiology to help us support these tasks.

Bone growth
If we look at living bone tissue under the microscope, we see mineralized tissue, a proteinaceous matrix, and several types of bone cells. Interestingly, in a healthy bone we’ll see one type of cell that is manufacturing mineralized tissue (osteoblasts) and another cell type that is eating or eroding away mineral (osteoclasts); often, the cells are almost side by side. (A third type of bone cell, the osteocyte, seems to be just sitting in the midst of bone matrix; we’ll see what it is doing later.)

At first glance this simultaneous growth and “decay” doesn’t make sense at all, but it becomes more comprehensible when we understand the dynamics of bone formation.

Bones constantly reorganize in response to the physical stresses placed on them and to the mineral needs of the body. (For more on the latter, see the sections on bone diseases caused by metabolic and nutritional problems, below.)

As a bone is subjected to the stress of bearing weight, the osteoblasts are stimulated to produce additional mineral mass to withstand the additional stress. However, if this went on indefinitely, the bone could grow to tree trunk size, and the dog would no longer be able to walk. So, along with the bone formation (mineralization), there is concurrent de-mineralization somewhere in the bone where the stresses are not as great. The result is a constant dynamic realigning of the bone, with more mineralized mass accumulating where it is needed. Note that this process is ongoing and normal throughout the life of the dog.

Bone lengthening in the growing dog is another almost mystical event. During the time frame when a puppy’s long bones are growing in length, the ends of the bones must maintain a cartilaginous and lubricated surface so they can move against one another through the joint. This means that the bone growth cannot occur at the very ends of the bones. Instead, a puppy’s bones grow outward from the epiphyses, near the ends of the bones. The new boney tissue actually emanates from a line of cartilaginous tissue called the physis or “growth plate,” that runs across the bone. It is evident in radiographs as an area of non-mineralized tissue within the bone.

When a dog (or other mammal) reaches maturity, the growth plates “close” or become mineralized, precluding further growth along the length of the bone. Damage to a growth plate during the dog’s growing phase (an epiphyseal fracture, for example, or the repeated and excessive compression of the growth plates caused by allowing too-young agility candidates to jump too much) can lead to a permanent cessation of long bone growth, with resultant shortening of the affected limb.

At the same time a pup’s bone is growing in length, it is adding more mass to support the pup’s gowing weight. The obvious way to do this would be to add mineralized tissue to the outside of the bone, but if too much bone were deposited, the bone could become enormous. So, once again, the bone balances the mineral that is laid along the outside of the bone with bone resorption along the bone’s inner core.

While this entire process is elegant in its conception, there are times when it goes awry. Prime examples of bone formation gone bad occur when there is abnormal joint movement, as when the dog suffers hip dysplasia or as a result of decreased mobility of a vertebrae. With abnormal joint movement, the bones surrounding the joint try to compensate with excess bone growth (exostosis) that we refer to as osteoarthritis. (We’ll discuss osteoarthritis and other diseases of joints in much more detail in a future installment of the Tour of the Dog).

Boney growths in or surrounding the joint often produce pain and result in a lack of mobility in the joint. If they are allowed to continue, these growths may ultimately totally fuse the joint.

The periosteum, a specialized connective tissue that covers all bones, is highly vascularized and has the ability to form bone. Irritation to the periosteum is painful, and can produce excess bone growth.

Other roles
Bone also produces blood cells. All the blood cells in the adult animal are produced in the bone marrow, located in the relatively hollow core of the bone.

Further, bone plays an important coordinating role in the body. Immune information is processed in the bone as blood circulates through the boney tissues – interesting, given that bone is one of the longest-living tissues in the body. In addition, the skeleton is a primary source (primarily through nerve sensors located in the joints) for providing kinesthetic information to the whole body, informing the animal of its posture at all times.

Unfortunately, boney tissues also provide an ideal microenvironment for trapping cancerous cells that are circulating through the body, and the growth of those tumor cells may continue within the bone.

And finally, we know that those osteocytes that we once thought were simply inert cells that had been isolated within the bone’s calcium matrix are actually intimately connected to one another throughout the entire structure of the skeleton. This interconnection of nervous and immunologic input within long-lived skeletal tissues may some day prove to be one of the most important sites for giving and receiving whole-body communications.

Fractures and fracture repair
Fractures are probably the most common bone “disease” in dogs. Any bone of the body may be involved, usually as a result of a traumatic incident (however, see metabolic diseases, below, for other causes of bone fractures).

When a bone is fractured, the surrounding blood vessels are also usually broken, and blood hemorrhages into the area and forms a clot. This clot is converted into a fibrous mass, and new blood vessels begin to interlace into this mass. As the clot continues to harden, it forms a structure (called a callus) that begins to hold the ends of the bone with reasonable firmness.

After about two weeks the adjacent periosteum produces fibroblasts that begin to develop osteoblastic characteristics. As more and more calcium salts are deposited, the tissue becomes more rigid osteoid or bone. This early bone (cancellous or spongy bone) is not yet organized into fully mature bone, and its relative softness may take months or even years to become fully organized, strong bone.

While most bones will ultimately heal on their own, they will heal much faster (and with less pain for the dog) if some form of stabilization is provided. Fractures in youngsters tend to heal much faster than in older dogs.

The prognosis is guarded, however, if the immature dog’s epiphysis is involved in the fracture. Healing may be prolonged, and/or premature closure of the growth plate – and resultant cessation of the growth of the affected bone – may result.

Infectious diseases
Infections, referred to as osteomyelitis, are a common cause of inflammatory disease of the canine’s bones. Typically a penetrating wound would be involved as the source of infection, or infections may occur following fractures or during surgical fracture repair.

Symptoms include pain (sometimes with refusal to bear weight on the affected limb), local swelling, and fever. As the disease progresses, draining tracts may occur. X-rays will reveal areas of bone lysis (areas where bone mass has been dissolved). If the condition continues, there may be boney growth surrounding the infection and areas where bone tissue has died.

Osteomyelitis may be instigated by many types of bacteria (the most common one being Staphylococcus aureus), but about half of all infections involve more than one species of bacteria. Treatment consists of antibiotic therapy, with culture and sensitivity often needed to accurately appraise the bacteria to match it to the appropriate antibiotic. If the case has become chronic, surgery may be needed to remove extra bone growth and any dead bone tissue resulting from the infection.

Note that there are also several mycotic (fungal) organisms that infect bone tissue, and these often require specialized diagnostic procedures to ferret out as well as specific medications to treat. The more common examples include:

• Coccidioidomycosis – A respiratory disease that occurs primarily in the Southwest U.S.; it also may infect bones.

• Histoplasmosis – A disease of the gastrointestinal tract that may extend to the skeletal system.

• Blastomycosis – A skin or generalized infection that may also involve bone.

• Actinomycosis – The Actinomyces organism is a normal inhabitant of the mouth of most dogs (and cats); penetrating wounds of the mouth may result in infections of surrounding bones.

• Nocardiosis – A respiratory infection that may spread to the skeletal system.

• Aspergillosis – An infection of the nasal passages, noticed as a chronic nasal discharge. Bone tissues may also be involved. Metabolic bone disease

There are a number of diseases that can loosely be categorized as “metabolic” in origin. The primary examples include the following:

• Renal hyperparathyroidism – This tongue-twisting disease is caused by chronic kidney disease, which results in an excessive rate of parathyroid hormone (PTH) secretion, which in turn causes a softening of the affected bones. Although the loss of hard boney structure is generalized throughout the body, the most noticeable area of involvement is the jaw, and the bone loss here is referred to as “rubber jaw.”

• Nutritional hyperparathyroidism has the same end result (rubber jaw), but in this case the causative agent is an improperly balanced diet – often from an all-meat diet fed to a growing animal. All-meat diets are too high in phosphorous and/or deficient in calcium, creating low blood calcium levels. The body attempts to correct this by demineralizing the skeleton, mining it for its calcium. This can result in bones that are vulnerable to fracture and deformity.

• Primary hyperparathyroidism is a rare disease, typically seen in the older dog. Its cause is a functional lesion of the parathyroid gland that results in a higher than normal level of PTH.

• Hyperadrenocorticism – Can be a result of Cushing’s disease or from prolonged and/or excessive administration of glucocorticoids. This can have several adverse actions on the maintenance of healthy bone. It can inhibit absorption of calcium from the gut (via an antagonistic effect on vitamin D), increase urinary excretion of calcium, and/or decrease proliferation and differentiation of fibroblasts and osteoclasts, thus affecting the elaboration of collagen and bone matrix. It can also have a catabolic (tissue destroying) effect on proteins, resulting in abnormal production of the bone matrix. The osteoporosis associated with this disease is usually prominent in the spine and long bones.

• Osteoporosis, a human disease that often affects postmenopausal women, is a disease that has not yet been reported in dogs, at least not in the same, hormonally-related form that is seen in older humans. There are, however, several diseases and toxicities that may result in thinning of dog bones (secondary osteoporosis), including: drug intoxications; the hyperparathyroidism and Cushing’s diseases mentioned above; hyperthyroidism ( a disease more common in cats than in dogs); hepatic toxicities; disuse due to immobilization of the limb; multiple myeloma; cysts; and tumors.

With any of these osteoporotic diseases in dogs (or humans) the telltale clinical sign is a fracture of one or more of the long bones or vertebrae. The prognosis for any of the osteoporotic diseases depends on the severity of the disease and on obtaining an accurate diagnosis for effective treatment.

Note that disuse osteoporosis can develop any time there is a prolonged period (two to three weeks or more) when the limb (or limbs) are not undergoing weight-bearing activity (making an excess of sofa-time, in my mind, as big a risk to skeletal health as anything).

This period of non-weight bearing may occur during the period of immobilization for fracture repair, and the de-mineralized bone will be more subject to fracture immediately after the dog returns to mobility. However, newer orthopedic techniques typically allow for weight bearing during immobilization of the fracture site, so this problem has been minimized. Total remineralization will occur rapidly as the limb begins to fully bear weight again.

Genetic diseases of bone
There are several genetic diseases that affect bones, the cartilaginous tissues between bones, and the joints. As a general rule these are rare diseases, often involving a disorder of the metabolic pathways that create bone or cartilaginous tissue, and are often limited to one specific breed.

A comment should be made about the malformed bones we have created in our dogs through breeding programs that emphasize cuteness, unique body and facial characteristics, and excessive variation in size and type, rather than normal and healthy function. Many of these genetic expressions we seem to treasure should be classified as genetic abnormalities, such as dwarfism and gigantism.

In many cases we continue to breed animals with genetic predispositions to a plethora of bone and joint diseases – hip dysplasia is perhaps the best example here. And we could use a whole litany of genetic-defect terms to describe the faces and mouths of our dogs, muzzles so shortened they can no longer hold a full complement of teeth, for example, let alone produce the normal scissor bite of the natural canine.

The farther we get away from the natural canine’s skeletal structure, the more problems we create; in contrast, the more the dog looks like the wolf or coyote from whence he came, the less apt he is to have debilitating skeletal problems.

Nutrition and bones
There are several generalized nutritional diseases that affect bones. Some nutritional deficiencies may potentiate genetic diseases; we have already seen how nutrition plays a role in metabolic diseases such as nutritional hyperparathyroidism.

Nutritional diseases of the bone have been reported as a result of the following:

• An imbalance of calcium and phosphorous (includes deficiencies and excesses of either or both minerals).

• An excessive intake of vitamin D, possibly from high intake of cod liver oil or other vitamin supplements.

• Too little vitamin D, usually from decreased absorption of the vitamin due to chronic administration of mineral oil.

• Hypervitaminosis A (too much vitamin A), especially from long-term ingestion of a diet limited to, or with excessive amounts of, liver.

• Too little zinc. Some dogs (particularly a familial line of Alaskan Malamutes) require supplementary zinc throughout their lifetimes.

The most critical point to retain is that overfeeding and oversupplementing dogs, especially growing pups (and most importantly, puppies of large breeds), must be avoided to prevent bone disorders. Numerous trials have demonstrated that dogs fed for maximum growth are predisposed to bone abnormalities including hip dysplasia, panosteitis, hypertrophic osteodystrophy syndrome, osteochondritis dissecans, and wobblers syndrome.

In addition, newer studies have indicated that restriction of caloric intake (by about 30 percent) both prolongs length of life and creates a healthier quality of life.

Bone tumors
Osteosarcoma, a malignant primary tumor of the bone and/or surrounding cartilaginous tissues, is the most common bone tumor in dogs, constituting an estimated 85 to 90 percent of all bone tumors in large dogs. It typically affects older dogs (from about seven years of age on), although it can occur at any age. Saint Bernards, Great Danes, Golden Retrievers, Irish Setters, Doberman Pinschers, German Shepherd Dogs, Boxers, and Collies all seem to have a higher incidence than other breeds.

Clinical signs of osteosarcomas include a rapid onset of lameness over a two- to five-day period, localized swelling around the lesion – most commonly involving one of the long bones of the limbs – and occasionally fever and anorexia. Fractures may occur. The tumor is often very active; growth rate is rapid and metastasis (most often to the lungs) occurs in a high majority (about 80 percent) of cases.

Chondrosarcomas (affecting cartilaginous tissues) and fibrosarcomas (affecting fibrous connective tissues) are tumors that may occur within boney tissues. Both of these tumors are malignant, and clinical signs depend on the location of the lesion, the extent of invasion into tissues, and occurrence and site of metastasis.

All of these malignant tumors can present extreme treatment challenges. Depending on the tumor, surgical excision, amputation, chemotherapy, or radiologic therapy will be the conventional treatment of choice.

In many cases the prognosis will remain poor, no matter what treatment is used. The very few cases that I’ve thought I had any positive effect on the dog’s lifespan or quality of life were treated with classical homeopathic methods.

In addition, tumors from other sites in the body may metastasize into the bones, including carcinomas, melanomas, sarcomas, fibromas, lymphosarcomas, hemangiosarcomas, reticulum cell sarcomas, and meningiomas. This list is further indication that living bone is continually in contact with the blood and cells from other areas of the body – a resonating scaffolding that I like to think of as the “rhythm” section of the orchestra we call the body.

And finally, there are benign tumors that affect bone, including osteomas, chondromas, and osteochondromas. Some of these will not require any treatment; others will be better off after surgical removal. In my experience, many of the benign tumors respond favorably to alternative medicines such as homeopathic or herbal remedies, or acupuncture.

Unknown etiology
Panosteitis is an inflammatory disease of long bones, the cause of which has not yet been defined. It usually occurs in young, large breed dogs, most commonly German Shepherd Dogs. Symptoms include an acute onset of lameness unrelated to trauma. The lameness may go away spontaneously, only to recur later, and the pain may shift from one leg or bone to another. The only other obvious abnormality may be radiographs that reveal a thickness of the inner cavity of the bone.

An uneventful recovery is the usual course of the disease, and the conventional treatment consists of analgesics, cortico-steroids, and/or anti-inflammatories. Alternative medicines such as herbal or homeopathic remedies or acupuncture may be as effective as conventional drugs, without the increased potential for adverse side effects. Limiting activity may also be beneficial. With recovery, radiographs of the bone will show a return to normal.

Hypertrophic osteodystrophy (HOD) is another self-limiting disease with unknown etiology. It affects rapidly growing large and giant breed dogs. Symptoms include mild to moderate painful swelling of the periosteum at the ends of the long bones. The cause of the disease has not yet been clearly determined.

Although many holistic practitioners find therapeutic levels of vitamin C to be helpful for treating HOD, this is controver-sial. Conventional treatment consists of rest, analgesics, and for severe cases, cortico-steroids. Most dogs have a spontaneous remission within a few days to several weeks, regardless of the treatment. And, while some dogs may be left with permanent boney deformation, relapses of the painful portion of the disease are rare.

Bone cysts (areas of demineralization within the bone) are rare, and their exact etiology is unknown. They are generally benign and cause no problem unless the bone loss is severe enough to cause fractures.

Lead poisoning, caused by ingestion of lead paint, linoleum, or other lead-containing materials, can occur in dogs. Symptoms of lead poisoning are generally limited to neurologic, gastrointestinal, and hematologic abnormalities; asymptomatic bone changes (“lead lines,” dense bands of boney proliferation seen in the metaphysic of long bones of mature dogs) may coincidentally be seen on X-rays.

Hypertrophic osteopathy or hypertrophic pulmonary osteopathy (HO or HPO ) is an interesting disease of bones in that its origin is typically a tumor of the lungs. HO produces a generalized symmetrical swelling and periosteal reaction that results in lameness. Exactly how the lung tumor manifests itself in bone changes has not been determined. Treatment is aimed at the thoracic disease.

Alternative medicines
My approach when treating diseases involving the skeletal system is to try to return the function back to normal; if the disease has already changed the structure of the bone, I don’t expect that I’ll have much luck changing existing structures of the bones. What this means is that there are a lot of diseases of bones that I feel are better treated by Western medicine – fractures are a prime example here.

Having said this, I think that if we can help return the function of the bone and associated joints, we are helping the quality of life of the dog. And additionally, if we have enough patience, a functional change (changing the gait of the dog back to normal) has the potential for ultimately changing (via remodeling of the bone) the actual structure of the bone.

With all this in mind, my approach has been to first use chiropractic adjustments to help return abnormal joint movement back to normal. Then I’ll use acupuncture; herbal or homeopathic remedies; and nutritional supplements to help speed up and support the healing process. If indicated, I recommend physical therapy, massage, and/or ultrasound therapy, and although my personal experience is limited, I understand that magnetic therapy may be helpful for the healing process.

Note that I feel the chiropractic adjustment is absolutely vital whenever we’re dealing with a skeletal problem. To my way of thinking, if the animal can’t use his joints properly, or get back to some reasonable semblance of a normal gait, there is no hope for us to get him back to a normally functioning animal, whatever the problem is with his skeletal system.

Acupuncture is an excellent adjunct therapy for anything involving the skeletal system – it diminishes pain, allowing for more normal function, and it has been reported to speed up healing of both soft and boney tissues. The herbal remedy, Symphytum (comfrey) has been reported to aid bone growth, and a number of herbs can be used to counter inflammation or pain or to enhance the immune system.

Homeopathic remedies that apply to bone tissues include Symphytum (to help speed fracture repair), Silicea (where realignment of mineralization may be needed), Hepar sulphris or Hypericum (for pain), and Ruta graveolens (for early inflammation of the periosteum). The spectrum of Calcaria, Phosphorous, and/or Floricum remedies may be indicated for a variety of bone disorders.

It is important to remember that a certain portion of bone is protein and fibrous – proper protein nutrition is thus necessary for bone health and repair, and vitamin C is especially important for maintaining the interconnecting links between individual fibers. (Conventional veterinarians have been taught that a dog manufactures its own vitamin C and therefore does not need supplemental C; most holistic vets – me included – feel we see improved healing when we add supplemental C as indicated.)

Check with your holistic vet for dosage schedules for homeopathic, herbal, and nutritional remedies.

-Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

Letters 09/05: Debate About Kidney Diets

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Dear readers: In May 2005, we published an article by longtime WDJ writer and book author CJ Puotinen about dietary considerations for dogs with renal failure. Quoted several times in “When to Say No to Low-Protein,” was dog owner Mary Straus, a researcher who has exhaustively studied the veterinary literature regarding treatments for chronic renal failure (CRF).

In response to our article, we received a long letter from S. Dru Forrester, DVM, MS, Diplomate ACVIM (Small Animal Internal Medicine), a scientific spokesman for Hill’s Pet Nutrition. Dr. Forrester began his letter with a statement that our article contained inaccurate information, and that some of the recommendations in the article could cause “significant harm” to dogs suffering from chronic kidney disease.

However, after going through Dr. Forrester’s letter with a fine-tooth comb, we feel confident that our article contained no errors, but rather, statements that represent different opinions from those of Dr. Forrester and Hill’s.

We shared Dr. Forrester’s letter with Mary Straus, as, quite frankly, we needed some help finding and checking the 10 footnoted studies Dr. Forrester referred to in support of his critique of our article. Straus not only had the studies on hand, but also was familiar with them. Shortly after she received Dr. Forrester’s letter, Straus countered with an even longer letter, citing 30 footnoted references in support of her critique of Dr. Forrester’s letter.

There is some pretty fascinating stuff in these letters – fascinating, at least, to us dog food geeks! In recognition of the fact that not all of our readers may be similarly enthralled, we offer below an edited version of the two letters. Interested individuals can contact us if they are interested in receiving the complete text of both letters.

Hill’s pioneered the field of clinical veterinary nutrition, and has always been the leader of that new industry. Its founder, a brilliant and visionary veterinarian, Mark L. Morris, Sr., may have been the first modern veterinarian to recognize the therapeutic value of adjusting the diet of animals as part of a veterinary response to their disease; the company was founded on a product he developed in 1939 to treat dogs with kidney failure – a product that is still a company best-seller.

We respect Hill’s history and acknowledge its enormous contributions to the field, but also wish to note that its oldest product (Prescription Diet® Canine k/d®) has changed over the years in response to new developments – meaning it might change again, perhaps even to incorporate some of the research we cited in our article. Other companies now make foods for dogs with kidney failure, and the resulting products are not all alike.

“When to Say No to Low-Protein” expressed our support for some different ideas. We don’t believe that Hill’s currently possesses the only correct prescription for feeding a dog with renal failure, nor the best one.

–Nancy Kerns, Editor

Hill’s Scientific Spokesman Writes…
I discovered several inaccuracies when reading “When to Say No to Low-Protein.” The article summarizes dietary treatment for chronic renal failure (CRF), now known as chronic kidney disease (CKD), in dogs. The author recommends a new approach to feeding dogs with kidney disease and states that newer research has radically changed and fine-tuned dietary recommendations for canine CKD patients.

Some of the recommendations in the article are appropriate; however, others could cause significant harm to dogs suffering from CKD. The readers of your journal should be aware of this information when making decisions about what to feed their dogs with CKD.

The author is correct that newer research has radically changed and fine-tuned the dietary recommendations for canine CKD patients; however, current recommendations made by veterinary nephrologists contradict those made by the author of this article.

The most current findings available are from a clinical study of dogs with naturally occurring CKD conducted at the University of Minnesota by leading experts in the field of veterinary nephrology…These findings further support current recommendations made by veterinary nephrologists to feed a therapeutic food such as Prescription Diet® Canine k/d® to dogs with CKD. Therapeutic foods such as Prescription Diet® Canine k/d® are indicated before kidney disease becomes severe; they should be fed when serum creatinine concentration is greater than or equal to 2 mg/dl. Waiting until kidney failure is more advanced decreases patient survival time and quality of life and also may decrease acceptability of the therapeutic food.

When calculating dietary protein requirements, one must consider digestibility and quality of the protein source. Digestibility refers to the amount of protein available for absorption and subsequent use by the pet. High quality protein sources deliver essential amino acids, those that cannot be synthesized by the pet.

As the quality and digestibility of the protein source increases, the amount of protein required in pet food decreases. Prescription Diet® Canine k/d® contains proteins that are of high quality and digestibility, therefore, a lesser amount of protein can be used to meet maintenance requirements for dogs.

The role of dietary protein restriction in dogs continues to be debated amongst veterinary nephrologists. To date, studies have not shown a conclusive effect on delaying progression of experimentally induced CKD in dogs; however, there have been beneficial effects observed in dogs with naturally occurring kidney diseases.

It is generally accepted that reducing protein intake decreases blood urea nitrogen (BUN) concentrations and ameliorates clinical signs of uremia in patients with CKD. In addition, restricting dietary protein may help ameliorate effects of metabolic acidosis, common in CKD.

Although further evaluation is needed, dietary protein restriction is associated with reduced magnitude of urine protein loss (i.e., proteinuria) in dogs with glomerular diseases (i.e., kidney diseases characterized by increased permeability of glomerular blood vessels that allow protein leakage into the urine).

Protein supplementation (e.g., meat, eggs, tripe) is contraindicated in these patients because it may worsen severity of proteinuria and subsequent hypoalbuminemia (decreased protein concentration in the blood).

The reader should also be aware that feeding a food with reduced protein is only part of the picture when talking about therapeutic foods such as Prescription Diet® Canine k/d®. Other beneficial components of these foods include moderate phosphate restriction, moderate sodium restriction, increased supplementation with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), increased B vitamins, and increased buffering capacity (to counteract the tendency toward decreased acid excretion by the kidneys).

In the past, owners of dogs with CKD often found that therapeutic kidney foods were not very palatable. Prescription Diet® Canine k/d® dry and wet formulas have undergone several improvements in palatability during the past several years and most dogs with CKD readily accept these foods.

It is important to slowly transition a dog from the old food to the new therapeutic food over a seven-day period. Dogs with advanced CKD often are nauseated and will not be interested in any type of food. Clinical signs of nausea and vomiting should be controlled before attempting to introduce a new food.

There are no nutritional reasons that support providing excessive amounts of dietary protein; older dogs (> 7 years) do not require more protein than young adults. In fact, subclinical kidney disease may exist in apparently healthy older or geriatric dogs and kidney function can be worsened by feeding excessive protein (and phosphorus) to these patients.

In summary, your readers should be aware that kidney therapeutic foods are routinely recommended by veterinary nephrologists and small animal internists for managing dogs with CKD. Prescription Diet® Canine k/d® contains reduced amounts of high quality, highly digestible protein that is more than adequate for maintenance needs of adult dogs. To date, Prescription Diet® Canine k/d® is the only kidney therapeutic food that has been studied in dogs with naturally occurring CKD. Feeding Prescription Diet® Canine k/d® to dogs with CKD prolongs survival time and improves quality of life for these patients.

S. Dru Forrester, DVM MS
Scientific Spokesman, Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Researcher Mary Straus Responds…
I would like to respond to the allegations in the letter above regarding supposed inaccuracies in the WDJ article, “When to Say No to Low-Protein” – allegations I believe are wholly without foundation.

Dr. Forrester’s letter says that “current recommendations made by veterinary nephrologists contradict those made by the author of this article,” then goes on to give the results of a study that compared the use of Prescription Diet® Canine k/d® (here-after referred to as k/d) with maintenance kibble.

I do not believe that dogs with CKD should be fed maintenance kibble, nor does WDJ advocate this. The article clearly stated that dogs with CKD need a reduced phosphorus diet, and advocated feeding a home-prepared diet that reduces phosphorus without overly restricting protein.

I agree that diet should be modified before kidney disease becomes severe, and the WDJ article specifically suggests reducing phosphorus “even with early stage CRF.”

I do not agree that protein should be restricted at this stage, or that the level of phosphorus restriction in k/d is required for early stage renal disease. According to the Nutrition Support Service at Ohio State University Veterinary Hospital, “Results of recent research are changing our recommendations for nutrient modification in dogs with early signs of CRF. Restricting phosphorus intake to about 30 mg/pound/day [about half the amount found in normal diets] as soon as polyuria is recognized, and supplementing potassium intake (with alkalinizing salts if acidosis is a concern) to maintain serum potassium within the normal range may be all that is necessary until patients develop severe disease.”

There have been no studies done that I’m aware of showing that lower amounts of high quality protein do not cause problems due to protein deficiency in dogs with CKD. Suggestions I saw regarding the use of high quality proteins for dogs with kidney disease specifically suggested not reducing the quantity of protein below levels referenced above, but instead increasing the quality of protein fed.

I would also dispute Hill’s claim that it contains “proteins that are of high quality and digestibility.” The ingredients in Canine k/d are “brewers rice, pork fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid), dried egg product, flaxseed, corn gluten meal, chicken liver flavor, soy fiber,” plus supplements and artificial preservatives. Of these, only eggs would be considered high quality protein (and “dried egg product” is almost certain lower quality than fresh eggs). Corn gluten meal and brewers rice are poor quality and incomplete proteins. None of the other ingredients provide protein at all.

It is true that reducing protein decreases BUN, but this is only significant when BUN is high enough to cause signs of uremia (in general, over 80 mg/dl). Our article did advise reducing protein when a dog is uremic. But no studies have shown that reducing protein improves quality of life, extends life, or slows the progression of kidney disease when instituted before a dog is uremic.

The studies cited by Hill’s that purportedly show otherwise apply only to dogs with canine X-linked hereditary nephritis (a rare, breed-specific form of juvenile renal disease), and the first study only indicates that a protein restricted diet reduces proteinuria, which is a symptom (comparable to BUN) that is related to the amount of protein in the diet and does not mean that there is any actual benefit from the reduction. The first study also indicates that the dogs fed the low protein diet “did not maintain starting body weight or plasma albumin concentration within the normal reference range,” dangerous side effects of low protein diets, and that “unintended differences in digestibility of protein and energy prevented assignment of the diet effect exclusively to protein.” I would argue that this study actually supports WDJ’s contention that low protein diets can be harmful.

Concerning metabolic acidosis: I looked up the references cited in Dr. Forrester’s letter. The first one cited is the study noted above, which indicates that low protein diets led to loss of body weight and hypoalbuminemia. Proteinuria may lead to hypoalbuminemia as well, but not because there is too much protein in the diet, but rather because protein is being lost faster than it is being restored.

Proteinuria is a symptom, not a cause, of renal disease. In reality, higher protein diets may be required when dealing with proteinuria and hypoalbuminemia, due to the excessive loss of protein through the kidneys.

Dr. Forrester points our that feeding a food with reduced protein is only part of the picture when feeding dogs with CKD. The WDJ article recommended phosphorus restriction and supplementation with B vitamins. Supplementation with omega-3 fatty acids was also highly recommended.

Hill’s admits that their diets have not been palatable in the past, but claims they are improved now. I would suggest that they would have made the same claims in the past, and will at some point in the future likely make further changes that they will then claim make their food more palatable than it is now.

The fact is that low protein foods are inherently less palatable, and that commercial diets will never appeal as much to a dog as fresh food diets. Anecdotally, many people still report their dogs refusing to eat Prescription Diet® Canine k/d®. Even if some dogs are willing to eat this food, it is not unreasonable to suggest alternatives for those that will not, or additives that will make it more appealing, as well as healthier, for dogs with early to moderate stage CKD.

There are many recent studies that indicate older dogs, even those with kidney disease, may need more protein than younger dogs. As to older dogs that “may” have subclinical kidney disease, low protein diets have not been shown to benefit dogs that do have kidney disease, nor have they been shown to reduce the risk of kidney disease or slow its progression. There are no studies indicating that feeding excessive protein to older dogs is harmful. In contrast, research over the past 10 years or so has shown that protein does not harm the kidney of dogs.

In summary, I stand by the recommendations in the WDJ article. I will continue to recommend that dogs with kidney problems receive adequate amounts of protein, along with fish oil (not the flaxseed found in Canine k/d®) and high quality fresh foods that they enjoy, and that moderate, rather than severe, restriction of phosphorus is all that is needed for early stage renal disease. I also stand by the assertion that older dogs, including those with CKD, do not benefit, and may be harmed, by excessive protein restriction.

Mary Straus
Pleasanton, CA

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Two More Types of Collars to Consider
Regarding “The Collar of Money” (WDJ May 2005):

I don’t know how you left out the Lupine collars! They are very fairly priced, come in cool designs and best of all, Lupine will replace them even if chewed! Around here, all you have to do is bring the collar to the store you bought it from; you don’t even have to mail it to the company. All their designs are great and they change frequently. I recommend them to everyone in my classes, especially puppies. Lupine even offers matching leashes with the same guarantee. My dog is still wearing the same one after nearly five years and it looks great!

Nancy Freedman-Smith
Gooddogz Training
Portland, Maine

I don’t know how I missed mentioning Lupine, either. As you said, the collars are very reasonably priced and available in an amazing variety of patterns. See www.lupinepet.com or call (800) 228-9653 to locate a Lupine dealer near you.

You mentioned in “The Collar of Money” that many collar manufacturers fail to make sizes (with appropriate hardware) for little tiny dogs. I found the same was true for large and giant breed dogs. As the owner of three American Bulldogs, I have been repeatedly disappointed by the collars on the market that were intended for extra-large dogs and large working dogs. I have seen too many collars with plastic components or single prong buckles break when under the strain of a large, strong dog (creating an unsafe situation for the dog and bystanders alike).

To solve these problems, I started manufacturing special collars with these special dogs in mind. I use double-ply nylon webbing with an average break strength of over 12,000 pounds. The two-inch width spreads out the strain placed on the neck by pulling, putting less force on the dog’s trachea. I use only stainless steel hardware, and buckles with double prongs, reinforced by rivets that are capped on the underside for a better seal and no rough edges against the dog’s neck.

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All my collars are double-stitched on all edges with thread that is resistant to rot, mold, mildew and heat. An extra large D-ring makes it easier to grab, and I added a small D-ring is added specifically for ID tags. I also use brass grommets in heat-sealed holes to prevent stretching and fraying.

Blocky Dogs collars are available in nine colors in three styles. View them at www.blockydogs.com, or call for a brochure: (440) 668-0112.

Rebecca Reed
owner, Blocky Dogs
Chesterland, Ohio

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Teach Your Dog to Walk on Leash

Walking politely at your side doesn’t seem like it should be so difficult to teach a dog, but it often proves to be the most challenging behavior for dog owners to achieve. Dogs who are letter-perfect with their sits and downs, targeting, and “leave it” exercises in the training center happily drag their owners across the parking lot to and from their cars before and after class.

Why do so many dogs pull on leash? Because they can. Many dogs learn, from the time they’re wee pups, that pulling on the leash gets them where they want to go. They pull, owner follows. There are a number of other reasons that dogs pull:

• We are slow and boring, and the world is infinitely exciting and rewarding. If you take your dog for a hike in a safe place off leash, chances are good he’ll run several miles for every mile you trudge on your pathetic two human legs.

• It’s not a natural behavior. Rarely do dogs plod sedately side by side. They dash, dart, gallop, romp, run, and trot, but rarely do they plod, unless you have a senior citizen who’s feeling his years.

• Lack of consistency. Although they may understand the concept of polite leash training and would like their dogs to be a pleasure to walk, most owners are also eager to get where they’re going, sometimes. If you insist on a loose leash most of the time, but allow him to pull when you’re in a hurry or your attention is elsewhere, pulling is likely to be his first behavior choice when he really wants to get somewhere.

• Behaviors that are intermittently reinforced are very durable. If a dog has learned to pull and is occasionally rewarded for this (by getting to reach what he is pulling toward), he will continue to pull whenever the opportunity arises.

• Sometimes the dog pulls because the owner never gives him slack in the leash. Many owners suffer from “Floating Arm Syndrome” – no matter how many times you remind the owner to keep her arm at her side in order to keep slack in the leash, that arm mysteriously levitates to shoulder height, and the leash tightens, even when the dog is walking politely by her side.

• If I attach a rope to your belt and pull, you’re likely to pull back. If I push, there’s a good chance you’ll push back. This is the “opposition reflex,” a natural response that enables us to maintain equilibrium and stay upright. Dogs have it too, and it kicks in when the leash tightens on their collar – they pull against it.

• It’s not important enough. Some owners rarely put a leash on their dogs because they rarely take them anywhere. For these owners, it’s just not a high priority behavior to practice – so they don’t.

Perhaps it was my early “old-fashioned” obedience training, but I have a real aversion to a tight leash – I find it very annoying to have my dog yanking my shoulder out of the socket. Even though I live on a farm, where dogs don’t often have to be leashed, it’s worth it to me to practice.

Polite walking versus “heel”
Old-fashioned training classes assumed that everyone aspired to the level of precision required for obedience ring competition. We taught students to bark the “Heel!” command and stride forward, using leash “pops” or “corrections” – both euphemisms for punishing the dog with a sharp jerk on the choke collar if he dared stray an inch out of perfect heel position.

You can still find similar old-fashioned training classes today, but increasingly you’ll encounter pet dog training classes, where a cheerful “Let’s Walk!” cue replaces the “Heel!” command, and clicks and treats for reasonably polite walking replace physical punishment for minor missteps.

“Heel” means “walk precisely beside me.” However, a growing number of positive trainers are earning obedience and rally titles for their dogs with enviably high scores by teaching their dogs to walk precisely by their sides without ever jerking on a collar. Rather, sits, heel position, and other required exercises are all taught by shaping, clicking, and positive reinforcement – treats, play, and praise, with the trainer gradually fading the use of clicks and treats before setting foot into the show ring.

Whether your goal is winning trophies and titles in competition or strolling around the block in harmony with your canine pal, you can use the following dog-friendly training techniques and avoid potentially spine-damaging yanks on your dog’s collar. It’s best to practice in short sessions – perhaps 5 to 15 minutes apiece, and to quit while you’re ahead – when you’re having some success and you and your dog are both enjoying the training game.

Free walking
Start with your dog off leash in a safely enclosed area, indoors or out. Yes, you can teach your dog to walk on leash by working without a leash! Have a good supply of tasty treats, and your clicker or other reward marker handy.

Start walking around the enclosed area. Any time your dog is within three feet of you, click! (or use another reward marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and give your dog a treat. Your dog will discover that it’s very rewarding to stay near you and begin to walk with you, at least some of the time. Use a high rate of reinforcement – lots of clicks and treats – accompanied by cheerful praise, to convince your dog you’re more fun and rewarding than the world around him.

When your dog starts to “hang” with you as you walk, pick which side you want him to walk on and start clicking only if he’s on that side. At first, click and treat whenever he’s closer to your chosen side. As he begins to spend more time on that side, click and treat for positions that come closer and closer to your goal walking position. This is called “shaping” – breaking a desired behavior into small steps and reinforcing approximations of the final behavior, gradually tightening the criteria until you eventually have the final goal behavior.

You can use other reinforcers besides food. Pairing your click! and treat with cheerful praise will give your dog a positive association with voice rewards, and help you eventually fade (get rid of) the need for the click and treat. You can also use toys and play as rewards. Hide a small squeaky toy or tug rope in your pocket, and after a stretch of exceptionally nice walking, whip it out, squeak and toss, or play a bit of tug as your dog’s reward. Keep him guessing!

Choosing one side for polite walking will keep your dog from crossing back and forth in front of you and tripping you up. Traditionally, dogs are taught to walk on the left side – possibly a carryover from the time when owners routinely carried and used rifles in their right hands while hunting with their dogs. While some dog sports still hold with this tradition, notably obedience and rally, others, such as agility and canine freestyle (dancing with your dog), ask the dog to work on both sides. Choose the side that works for you and your training goals, and later you can train to the second side as well, if you desire.

When your dog is frequently walking by your side, it’s time to add the leash.

Leash walking
You can start with the leash attached and skip the free walking exercise if you want, but practicing off leash first helps you avoid falling victim to many of the reasons dogs pull on leash. Neither you nor your dog can pull on the leash if it’s not there!

Remember that your dog’s leash is not a steering wheel or handle. It’s a safety belt, intended to prevent your dog from leaving. It’s not to be used to pull him around. To position him by your side to begin walking, rather than dragging him there, use treats and body language to show him where you want him to be.

For left-side walking, start with your dog sitting by your left side. I suggest holding leash and clicker in your left hand (same side as the dog) and having a good supply of treats in your right hand. Make sure there’s enough slack in the leash so it stays loose when your dog is in the reinforcement zone you’ve identified for polite walking. You can also use a waist-belt or otherwise attach your dog’s leash to your body, as long as he’s not big enough to knock you down and drag you.

Use your “Let’s walk!” cue in a cheerful tone of voice and start walking forward. The instant your dog begins to move forward with you, click! and treat. At first, click! and treat very rapidly – almost every step. When your dog is attentively focused on his new, generous, treat-dispensing machine (you!), you can gradually reduce the rate of reinforcement.

Careful! If you reduce the rate too quickly or too predictably, you’ll lose the behavior. As you gradually reduce the rate of reinforcement, be sure to click! and treat randomly – so your dog never knows for sure when the next one’s coming. If he knows you’re going to reinforce every tenth step, he can quit paying attention for nine steps, and zero back in on you on the tenth. This phenomenon is called an interval scallop. We humans are creatures of habit, and easily fall into predictable patterns. Our dogs are masters at identifying patterns.

The manner in which you hold and deliver your treats is critical to success with polite walking. When you walk, have the treats in your right hand but hidden behind your right hip. If you hold them in your left hand where your dog can see or smell them, it will be harder to fade treats later on. If you hold them in front of you in your right hand, your dog will keep stepping in front of you to watch your hand (treats), and you’ll keep stepping on him.

To deliver treats, wait for a second or two after the click! as you keep walking, then bring your right hand across the front of your body and feed the treat just behind your left knee. Quickly move your hand behind your right hip as soon as you’ve delivered the treat. Feeding the treat where you want your dog to be – on your left side – reinforces that position. If you feed the treat in front of you, you’ll reinforce that position, and you’ll be stepping on him again.

Remember to click!, then treat after a brief pause. If you begin to move your treat hand toward him before the click!, he’s just thinking about food rather than what he did to make you click the clicker. For the same reason, you want to lure as little as possible during leash walking. Luring will keep him in position, but it interferes with his ability to think. Your goal is to get him to realize that walking in the desired reinforcement zone makes you click! the clicker and earns him a reward.

If your goal is a show-ring heel, continue to shape for a more precise position as previously described, until your dog will walk reliably with his shoulder in line with your leg. Then change your cue from “Let’s Walk!” to “Heel!” so your dog can distinguish between “now we’re going for a relaxed stroll,” and “now we’re working for that perfect 200-point score.”

The lure of the lure
Of course, it’s not always that simple. There will be times when your dog forges ahead of you and tightens the leash, or stops to sniff something of interest as you walk past him. There are positive solutions for those challenges as well.

When you have to pass a very tempting distraction, use a lure, briefly, to get your dog past the distraction. Put a tasty treat at the end of his nose (the more tempting the distraction, the higher-value the treat must be) and walk him past. As his polite walking behavior improves, your need for luring should diminish.

About face
Direction changes can be very useful in teaching polite leash walking. When your dog starts to move out in front of you, before he gets to the end of his leash, turn around and walk in the opposite direction.

Do this gently; you don’t want him to hit the end of the leash with a jerk if he doesn’t turn with you! As you turn, use a cheerful tone and a kissing noise to let him know you’ve changed direction. When he notices and turns to come with you, click! and offer a treat behind your left knee. He’s now behind you, so you’ll have ample opportunity to click! and treat while he’s in the zone as he catches up to you.

Be a tree
There will be times when your dog pulls ahead of you on a tight leash. This is a great opportunity to play “Be a tree.” When the leash tightens, stop walking. Just stand still – like a tree – and wait. No cues or verbal corrections to your dog. Be sure to hug your leash arm to your side so he can’t pull you forward.

Eventually, he’ll wonder why his forward progress has stopped, and look back at you to see why you’re not coming. When he does, the leash will slacken. In that instant, click! and feed him a treat behind your left knee. The click! marks the loose leash behavior, and he’ll have to return to the reinforcement zone to get it. Then move forward again, using a higher rate of reinforcement if necessary, until he’s again walking politely with you.

Penalty yards
If “Be a tree” is not working, add “penalty yards.” Your dog usually pulls to get somewhere – or to get to something. If he won’t look back at you when you make like a tree, back up slowly – with gentle pressure on the leash, no jerking, so he’s moving farther away from his goal. This is negative punishment – his pulling on leash behavior makes the good thing go farther away. When the leash slackens, click! and treat, or simply resume progress toward the good thing as his reward.

Go sniff!
Sniffing is a natural, normal dog behavior. If you never let your dog sniff, you’re thwarting this hard-wired behavior. He may become frustrated and aroused if he’s constantly thwarted, so when you’re doing polite walking together, you can sometimes give him permission to sniff.

If he stops to sniff keep walking, putting gentle pressure on his leash to bring him with you, giving him a click! and treat as soon as he moves forward. When you know you’re approaching a good sniffing spot, however, you can give him permission by saying “Go sniff!” Give him enough leash to reach the spot without pulling, even running forward with him if necessary. You can also use “Go sniff” as a reinforcer for a stretch of nice leash walking!

Proofing

Proofing is the process of solidifying polite leash-walking behavior in the presence of distractions. This works best with controlled distractions, starting at a distance where the temptation is not strong enough to compel your dog to investigate.

Practice his leash-walking behavior at a distance that works, then gradually bring the distraction closer. Increase the rate of reinforcement or the value of the reinforcer as needed, but try to avoid bringing the distractor so close you have to use a lure to get your dog past it. As you practice with various temptations at closer distances, your dog will learn to keep working with you and you’ll be able to reduce the rate of reinforcement again.

It’s up to you to decide whether you want your dog to walk politely on leash or heel precisely at your side. Dogs want good stuff, and they do what works to make it happen. If walking on a loose leash makes good stuff happen for your dog, the two of you will stroll happily side-by-side into the future together.

Keeping Your Dog Fit and Healthy

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By Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD Compare the actions and functions of the musculoskeletal system to a finely tuned symphonic orchestra. Each and every instrument (each of the dozens of independent muscles in the dog) contributes to the whole. For one instrument to be heard above the rest, the sounds from other instruments must be softened – and for one set of muscles to flex or contract a joint, that joint’s muscles of extension must relax, and vice versa. The music of the muscles is this month’s stop on the Tour of the Dog. Anyone who loves the symphony knows that the individual instruments resonate or play off one another to create an apparent experience of one musical “organism.” This same resonance exists within an animal’s musculoskeletal kinesthetic system. (Kinesthesia is the sense by which movement, weight, position, etc., are perceived; commonly used to refer specifically to the perception of changes in the angles of the joints.) Thanks to his constant kinesthetic feedback mechanism, a healthy dog automatically knows where his legs are, and his nervous system tells him exactly where to place each foot as he travels down the road. But enough of this analogy; let’s see how the real muscle tissues work (and don’t work) in our canine friends. And, let’s see if there are some ways we can help keep our dogs’ muscles fit, to keep them from becoming soft and under-productive. Note: The musculoskeletal system is generally considered as one unified system because that’s the way it operates. The musculoskeletal system includes bones, muscles, tendons, ligaments, nerves, and the biochemicals and nutrients that are required to energize and move the system. The system’s functions include propelling the dog from one site to another, providing architectural stability, and the protection of internal organ systems. In this article we will stick with the muscular portion of the system, and cover bones and joints in later editions. Anatomy and physiology A single muscle fiber is a cylindrical, elongated cell, and may vary in length from very short (for example, the muscles controlling eye movement) to the length of a dog’s thigh (the sartorius muscle extends across the anterior thigh, wrapping around from the outer hip to below the inner knee, thus it is actually longer than the dog’s thigh). Between and within muscle cells is a complex latticework of connective tissue, resembling struts and crossbeams that help to maintain the integrity of the muscle during contractions and straining. Crossbeams within muscles can be seen using a microscope and are responsible for the muscles appearing “striated.” Other muscles in the body, such as those found in the intestine, bladder, and blood vessels, are non-striated. Cardiac muscles are striated, but they have a slightly different microscopic appearance from skeletal muscles. Organizationally, thousands of muscle fibers are wrapped by a thin layer of connective tissue (called the perimysium) to form a muscle bundle (or “fascicle”) that is surrounded by another sheath of connective tissue (the epimysium). Muscle bundles (which, when taken together, are named – the biceps for example) are joined at each end into tendons, which attach to bones. The muscles function by contracting across joints and using the joint as a fulcrum, causing movement. The contractile machinery of the muscle fiber is organized into structural units called sarcomeres, with several sarcomeres lining up to form into a contractile unit of myofibrils. Muscle length is determined by how many sarcomeres are lined up in series, one next to the other. Muscle thickness ultimately depends on how many sarcomeres line up in parallel (one on top of the other). The sarcomere structures consist of two important proteins, actin and myosin (comprising about 85 percent of the muscle cell’s volume); other proteins such as troponin and tropomyosin are also present. Today’s accepted theory for how muscles contract involves the action of actin and myosin sliding over each other, increasing the amount of overlap and thus shortening the length of the muscle cell. Muscle fibers can be excited into shortening by chemical, electrical, or physical means. Muscular activity requires energy input, and prolonged activity necessitates the oxygenated “burning” of metabolizable nutrients. Muscle cells contain an abundance of interconnected mitochondrial powerhouses, the organelles that contain the enzymes that utilize oxygen during exercise (via the conversion of fats, carbohydrates, and proteins to ATP). This entire network is supplied with zillions of capillaries – a cross section of one square inch of muscle contains 125,000 to 250,000 capillaries. Exercise is the vital component for improving overall muscular function. It enhances the efficiency of the mitochondrial power-packs (and over time increases their numbers), and increases the number of functional capillaries per square inch of muscle for better overall energy supply and enhanced waste product removal. Muscle fibers are innervated and activated by motor neurons. Each motor neuron activates, on average, some 600 muscle fibers. Large muscles may have as many as 2,000 fibers per motor unit; the tiny eye muscles may have only 10 or so fibers per motor unit. When stimulated, a motor unit will fire all the fibers it is in contact with, not just a few. In addition, there are several mechanisms that insure muscle-use efficiency by firing only those muscles needed for the task at hand and by using the more efficient, oxygen-consuming energy pathways whenever possible. Smaller muscles have fast-twitch fibers – muscle fibers that are activated early, require more energy to function, and thus tire faster. Larger muscles contain more slow-twitch fibers – more energy-efficient fibers that are recruited when a heavier load of work is required. As an animal continues to exercise, more and more slow-twitch fibers are recruited into action. Eventually even the larger muscles tire, and ultimately the dog becomes so tired he can go no farther. Anytime a dog moves he relies on all the systems working in healthy unison. Whenever dogs need to extend their activity range, they rely on their previous exercise history and their current nutrient status to provide them with healthy muscles. Exercise not only enlarges muscle mass by stacking muscle cells on top of one another, it increases the blood supply to the muscles, and it adds more mitochondria to the cells – thus enhancing cellular metabolism and function. If there is any one medicine especially made for muscles, it is exercise, liberally applied, several times daily. Diseases of the muscles There are several diseases that are muscular in origin, and several more that affect the muscles secondarily via the nervous system, nutrient deficiencies, and other sources. Following are some of the more important of these diseases. • Pain. While pain may not be a specific disease, it deserves a brief note here, especially since much of the pain animals contend with comes from the musculoskeletal system, and since many of our dog’s conditions of the muscular system involve nothing more than mild strains that cause variable amounts of pain. As prevalent as pain is, it is curious how little we really know about it in animals – most of what we think we know is conjectural or theoretical. One thing we do know, however, is that pain perception is a purely subjective phenomenon, whether we are talking about humans or other animals. An important concept to keep in mind is that, although pain perception appears to be quite constant across species, actual tolerance of a painful stimulus may vary widely even within a single species – that is, all of us (animal and human) have similar pain thresholds, but some individuals can tolerate a higher level of pain than others without showing clinical signs. Thus, one dog may scream and howl with nothing more than a pinched toe; another will seemingly have no pain after severe injuries that would leave most of us debilitated. From a practical standpoint, this means to me that I consider the treatment of pain an important component of anything that seems like it could cause pain, even if the animal isn’t showing obvious outward signs of experiencing pain. Mild pain relievers contained in herbal remedies, acupuncture, chiropractic, trigger point therapy, massage, and homeopathic remedies are my treatments of choice for pain. Western medicine relies on analgesic drugs (narcotics and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories), but I’d just as soon avoid the adverse side effects seen with these. There are two basic kinds of pain, superficial and deep. Superficial pain or fast (first) pain can be described as pricking, bright, or sharp. Descriptors for deep or slow (second) pain include dullness, burning, aching, or throbbing. To get a sense for the two types of pain, consider how it feels when you cut yourself with a sharp knife. Initially you feel a sharp first or fast pain, and then a few seconds later you feel the throbbing, dull, slow, or second pain. The combination of pains is referred to as double pain and is common after tissue injury. Before you (or your dog) are able to feel any pain, pain receptors (nociceptors) in the affected organ or structure must first be stimulated above their thresholds. In both first (acute) and second (chronic) pain, a naturally occurring inflammatory process causes firing of the pain receptors. Pain mediators such as histamine, serotonin, and prostaglandins are released from various cellular structures during the course of the inflammatory process, and they cause the initiation and continuation of pain. Pain receptors found in joints, muscles, and tendons combine with proprioceptors (nerve bundles that detect the position of body structures) to help keep limbs and joints within a normal range of motion. If they detect pain or a joint that is approaching its normal limits of motion, the receptors fire and cause a tightening or loosening of the muscle masses that control the structure, thus preventing structural damage. If structural damage occurs, the pain receptors will fire and instigate the inflammatory process. Most (about 80 percent) of a joint’s protection comes from the stabilizing ability of the muscles and tendons; ligaments contribute only about 20 percent – yet another reason to keep your dog’s muscles in shape with exercise. • Hereditary conditions. There are several hereditary conditions that affect dogs’ muscles. Muscular dystrophy (MD) refers to a group of genetic disorders associated with a deficiency or dysfunction of the muscle protein, dystrophin. A primary interest in canine MD is its potential similarity to the human disease. The disease complex has been reported in several breeds of dogs; the one that has been best characterized is a sex-linked disease of Golden Retrievers. Muscular dystrophy’s major symptom is muscle wasting, and clinical signs in Goldens include generalized weakness, enlargement of the tongue, and difficulty eating. Most affected dogs die while still young, but some survive to three to five years of age, eventually dying from cardiac disease. Blood chemistries and muscle biopsies are necessary for accurate diagnosis. Scientists are currently working on “gene surgery” to repair the affected DNA segment of MD, and the technique seems to hold some promise for Goldens and potentially for humans. Myasthenia gravis is another disease that has been reported (rarely) in dogs as well as in humans. It occurs as both an acquired, autoimmune disorder and a congenital, familial one. The consistent symptom is severe fatigue that is relieved with rest and anticholinesterase therapy. It is thought that both the acquired and congenital forms are due to a diminished number of cholinesterase-responsive chemical receptors on the muscle cell walls (acetylcholine receptors). While the exact cause of the immune-mediated condition has not been defined, one can suspect the usual factors: excess use of corticosteroids, diminishing the immune capacity; vaccine-related; and excess exposure to toxins (especially suspect here would be pesticides). Treatment is challenging, and in Western medicine it would include the use of anticholinesterase drugs, followed up with corticosteroids or other immune-suppressors. Alternative therapies would ultimately attempt to enhance the balance of the immune system rather than trying to shut it down. Fibromyalgia (literally meaning pain in the muscles, ligaments, and tendons) is another complex of diseases seen in humans that has so far eluded attempts to define or treat it. Of interest for dogs is the fact that fibromyalgia’s symptoms – chronic fatigue, muscle and joint pain and stiffness, and cognitive dysfunction – are the same as those seen in some chronic cases of Lyme disease. In fact, Lyme disease may progress to a chronic multi-symptom form that appears much like fibromyalgia. What we ultimately learn about how to treat Lyme disease may thus be a good indicator for how we will eventually treat fibromyalgia in humans. Most treatments for fibromyalgia are geared toward improving the quality of sleep and reducing pain. Massage and trigger point therapy may be helpful. Interestingly, fibromyalgia in humans is one of many diseases that responds very well to canine therapy: fibromyalgia sufferers who have companion dogs seem to fare better – in terms of pain reduction, depression, and the ability to continue exercising – than those who go it alone. Other rare hereditary diseases affecting dogs include myotonia (a condition in which muscle contraction persists after stimulation), a number of disorders of glycogen metabolism that influence the metabolic processes within muscles, and several diseases of the muscles that are found in one or only a few breeds. Hypothyroidism has been associated with myopathy and neuropathy in humans, and there is some evidence it may also be a contributing factor in some dogs. Hyper-adrenocorticism (Cushings disease) is a rare disorder that may create a variety of clinical signs of muscular dysfunction that ultimately result in muscle weakness and/or stiffness. Myositis (inflammation of the muscles) Generalized inflammatory myopathy of dogs has been associated with toxoplasmosis, systemic lupus, and leptospirosis. Clinical signs include weakness, pain, fever, muscular atrophy, and stiffness. Almost all cases of myositis have an autoimmune component, and some can be diagnosed using immunological testing and/or muscle biopsy. A disease of juvenile Collies has been described that is characterized by concurrent dermatitis and myositis, symptoms that often wax and wane over time. There are several inflammatory conditions reported that affect the masticatory (jaw) muscles, collectively referred to as masticatory muscle myositis (MMM) or masticatory muscle disorders (MMD). Some of these involve an eosinophilic infiltrate, and most are thought to be immune-system related. The dog has difficulty opening his jaw, and as the disease progresses, eating becomes progressively more difficult, and the jaw muscles atrophy. Corticosteroids may be helpful, although symptoms tend to recur. Alternatively, acupuncture or homeopathy may be effective. Parasites of the muscles Sarcocystosis is an invasion of muscles and other soft tissues by protozoans of the genus Sarcocystis, a coccidia-like organism. The life cycle of the organism requires two hosts. Predator animals (dogs) are typically the final host; prey animals are the intermediate hosts where the organism forms cysts within the muscle mass. Dogs (and other predators) then pick up the cysts by eating infected meat; cattle (and other “prey” animals) are infected by sniffing predator feces. Most often the cysts are asymptomatic, but occasionally they become so numerous and large that they cause muscle soreness. In some animals the cysts become large enough that they can be seen as white spots scattered throughout the muscle tissues. There have been a few reports of serious illness and death in dogs (as the final host), associated with sarcocystosis, and under some rare conditions, dogs can become the secondary host with invasion of cysts into muscle tissues. However, the real significance of the disease is that one mode of transmission is via ingestion of raw, infected meat. Muscle tumors Primary skeletal muscle tumors can be benign (rhabdomyoma) or malignant (rhabdomyosarcoma). Tumors may also spread or metastasize secondarily from other tissues, and local tumors may invade adjacent muscles. Treatment is surgical incision, chemotherapy, or radiation, depending on the tumor type. Acupuncture or homeopathic remedies may be tried. Overexertion and everyday maladies The most commonly seen muscle problems are those that occur with the normal use and abuse that comes with daily living: sprains, strains, contusions, bruises, abrasions, lacerations, and infections extending from cuts and scrapes. But some cases of overuse can be serious, including: • Exertional myopathy (also known as Monday morning disease, rhabdomyolysis, or tying up), a disease that may produce muscle necrosis as a result of excess lactic acid buildup from overwork. • Malignant hyperthermia, a condition most frequently seen in heavily muscled dogs, typically after anesthesia and stress. • Severe muscular trauma that may cause muscular contraction and/or tendon rupture. Most of these conditions are limited to large or heavily muscled dogs or to working dogs such as racing greyhounds. Most of the everyday maladies, however, if they need any treatment at all, respond well to alternative therapies: herbal antiseptics and antibiotics, alternative pain relievers, simple massage, or just an easy walk to enhance healing blood flow through the affected areas. Remember that any strain of muscular tissues will cause the dog to compensate; four-legged animals compensate quite easily, quickly learning to walk on three legs. Whenever an animal alters his gait or posture, the compensation will extend into the spine, and a chiropractic adjustment will often be necessary to return the animal to normal function. Alternative medicines In my opinion, alternative medicines offer the perfect solution for most conditions of the musculoskeletal system – oftentimes creating more effective and longer-lasting healing than any Western medicine I ever tried. In fact, alternative medicines are so much better than Western medicines for most musculoskeletal problems I encounter, I almost always recommend them as my first and preferred treatment. Acupuncture is good for almost any condition of the musculoskeletal system, because it decreases pain, allowing for enhanced mobility, which often speeds healing; enhances the flow of energy through areas where a blockage of natural flow has occurred; and enhances the immune system (many causes of musculoskeletal disease are immune-related). Chiropractic is indicated for any condition that involves both the nerves and muscles. Almost all muscle and joint problems also involve input from nerves, thus I typically recommend the combination of acupuncture and chiropractic for any condition of the musculoskeletal system. Herbal remedies can be added to enhance healing, to decrease pain, and to help relax the animal. Many herbs also have very high levels of antioxidant activity, to help speed healing. Check with your herbalist for herbs to use, dosages, and methods of use. Homeopathic remedies are helpful, especially for pain. Arnica is the classic remedy for treating muscular pain and joint sprains. Rhus tox is good for what homeopaths call the “rusty gate” syndrome: sore muscles and joints that improve with movement. Bryonia alba may be beneficial for the animal that gets worse the longer he walks or exercises. Pain that comes from irritated or damaged nerve endings may respond to Hypericum, and Ruta graveoleus may work on deeper pain. Check with your homeopath for doses and dosage schedules. Nutrient therapy can be used to enhance the growth and healing of muscle tissue. A deficiency of vitamin E and selenium, for example, has been shown to cause muscle damage in some animals, and these and other antioxidant vitamins are excellent supplements for muscle health. Massage and physical therapy are vital in cases of muscular problems. Massage is the prescription for sore muscles, and physical therapy can be used to help return an ailing musculoskeletal system to normal function. There are literally dozens of different “schools” of massage, ranging from very light touch to deep massage of inner connective tissues. There are also scads of massage practitioners who work on animals at every level of proficiency – from those who have seen a video on animal massage to those who have completed several hundred hours of training; the quality of the massage is thus highly variable. Ask about the prospective practitioner’s training, and ask for references. (See “Lay Your Hands On Dogs” and “How to Select a Canine Massage Provider” in WDJ July 2004.) Physical therapy is often limited to animals recovering from surgery or severe injury, and should thus be a specific methodology aimed at the condition. Currently there are a few dozen people across the country who have studied physical therapy and are applying standardized techniques of the specialty to animals. Massage, on the other hand, is a technique all of us can use on a routine basis. Simply rub and enjoy. Your dog will let you know what feels good and which body parts are sore – go gently on the sore areas. If you want to learn more about massage, there are several good books and videos on the subject, or you can attend one of several schools devoted to animal massage. Finally, the best part about massage is that both the giver and the give benefit. Studies have shown that simply rubbing your pet slows both your and your pet’s heart and respiratory rates, enhances both your immune systems, and is whole-body calming for the two of you. Also With This Article Click here to view “The Healthy – Properly Functioning Canine Immune System” Click here to view “The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook Top #2” -Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

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On Vacation

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Lots of people take vacations in the summer and I know, because I usually babysit their dogs when they leave! I enjoy having my friends and family members dogs come and stay, and of course, while they are here, I press the canine members of the family into service. They have to model for the magazine, eat the foods, treats, and chews that we’re reviewing, sleep on test beds, wear test collars and leashes, etc. Fun for me, and I hope, fun for them, too.

But as I write this (in mid-June) I’m about to leave for my own vacation the first two-week vacation I’ve taken in my adult life! This has required that I get this issue to the printer a little earlier than normal no small feat and arrange for a dog-sitter for my dog, Mokie.

On several occasions, Mokie has stayed for a night or two with my good friend and frequent model for the magazine, trainer Sandi Thompson of Sirius Puppy Training (seen in this issue, again!, modeling proper loose-leash training techniques). But for a dog-sitting duty of more than two weeks, you have to look to family.

So Mokie is going to my sister Pam’s house. Pam and her husband Dean have two Jack Russell Terrorists (er, Terriers), Patrick and Sophie. You’ve seen their pictures occasionally, usually when I needed a picture of a dog doing something naughty! These dogs don’t know the definition of the word sit, much less down, shush, or for crying out loud, OFF! But they completely adore my sister, who worships them, and they appear to love Dean, too. Does Dean love them? I think Dean really loves Pam, the dogs amuse him, and he’s an awfully good sport.

Mokie loves it at Aunt Pam’s house. They have a dog-door, a yard full of squirrels, and baskets full of toys, and they let the dogs sleep with them on and even in the bed, which Mokie loves to do. Plus, there is a lot of delicious food there (Pam is a chef), and it is shared so freely with dogs that all a dog has to do is make a little whimper and voila! Bits of steak or something equally delectable fly into that dog’s mouth! Those dogs have trained Pam well. I’ve had Mokie on a little diet getting him ready for the weight he’s sure to gain on his vacation. He’s going to have a blast, and so am I!

———-

Top products?
Don’t forget that we are still looking for extra- cool dog care or training products to feature in our year-end Gear of the Year showcase. We need plenty of time to order and test these products ourselves (plus we’re always working a couple of months ahead of the cover date), so get some information about your favorites to us as soon as possible! You can mail your suggestions to the editorial office address, or e-mail them to WDJTopProducts@aol.com. Please include some clues about how we can find the product: its manufacturer’s name and location, for example, and/or the name and location of the place you found it. And, yes, if you have a picture of your dog enjoying the product, we’d love to have that, too!

I’m most looking forward to coming home from my vacation to test one product that I had only a tantalizingly short experience with a couple of years ago. For the scoop, check out Letters in this month’s issue. Ciao!

-Nancy Kerns

Your Dog’s Pet Peeves

Eavesdrop on a group of dog owners discussing their dogs, and along with a lot of brags about newly trained behaviors and hard-won trophies and titles, you’re likely to hear a fair number of complaints about the annoying things their canine companions do. Well guess what? If you could eavesdrop on a pack of dogs at the dog park, you might well hear a litany of things that humans do to annoy their dogs!

Of course, dogs can’t talk, and aside from a few animal psychics we can’t claim to really know what they’re thinking, but we can make some pretty good guesses. If we could take a survey, compile the results, and list our dogs’ top five pet peeves, I’m guessing here’s what they might tell us:

1.) They treat me like a monkey!
Dogs are canids; humans are primates. Our two species have hardwired behaviors that make us what and who we are. The physical differences are obvious – dogs have fur and tails, and walk on four legs. We are naked and tailless, walk on two legs, and have opposable thumbs.

The behavioral differences aren’t always as noticeable, but they are well-documented. To their credit, dogs are far better at observing, analyzing, and manipulating the behavior of humans than most humans are of dogs. For example, current thinking about the history of the dog-human relationship now holds that rather than humans deliberately domesticating dogs, it’s more likely that dogs adopted humans, recognizing early man’s leavings as a reliable source of food, with the boldest and tamest members of the dog packs self-selecting for ever-bolder-and-tamer genes in their pups. Eventually, Dog was sleeping at the hearth of Man.

Still, they are dogs, not furry, four-legged humans, and as dogs, they have an inherited package of social behaviors that differs significantly from ours. We approach other humans head-on, make direct eye contact, and reach out to shake hands, hug, and kiss. Dogs generally approach each other from the side, avoid direct eye contact unless they intend to challenge, and if one dog puts a paw “around” another, it’s probably an aggressive move (unless done in mutually agreeable play).

Yet we insist on imposing our primate greetings on dogs. Not just on our dogs, who might reasonably be expected to tolerate rude behavior from their own humans, but even on strange dogs we encounter. Watch any random group of humans greet dogs that they don’t know. From very young children all the way to senior citizens, the majority will try to pat dogs on top of the head, gaze meaningfully into their eyes, even hug and kiss them.

Even those of us who know better do this! I hug and kiss our dogs, especially Dubhy, the Scotty, who is most tolerant of my monkey-ness. I can’t help it – he’s so huggable! He puts up with my attentions in exchange for the pleasure of lying on his back in my lap and getting a tummy rub, which he adores. I used classical conditioning – associating the joy of tummy rubbing with the less desirable hugging – to get him to accept, perhaps even enjoy, human arms around his fuzzy body and human lips on the top of his head and the tip of his nose. I’m much more careful to use appropriate greetings with dogs I don’t know, however!

You have a couple of options if you want to avoid annoying dogs with primate social behaviors. With strange dogs, your best bet is to avoid direct eye contact, offer a hand slowly, palm up, and reach under the chin to scratch rather than over the head to pat, kneel to greet rather than bending over from the waist, and DON’T HUG OR KISS! With your own dogs, you can either avoid egregiously primate behavior, or condition your dog to enjoy pats, hugs, and kisses by associating them with really good stuff – like tummy rubs, treats, ear scratches, toys, and play.

Remember, this is not just about greeting. If your dog barely suffers your head-pats, and you think you’re rewarding him for a desirable behavior by patting him on the head, think again – you could actually be punishing him, thereby decreasing the behavior rather than reinforcing it. Watch him the next time you reach to pat his head. Does he close his eyes blissfully and lean into your hand? If so, then he really likes it! But if he moves away, flattens his ears, ducks his head or otherwise looks less than joyful, it’s time to rethink your primate behaviors.

2.)They leave me alone too often!
Canids and primates are both social species; it’s one of the reasons we get along with each other as well as we do. In addition to the need for food, water, and some amount of shelter from the elements, we share an inborn need for close and regular interaction with others from our social group.

My husband and I moved to Maryland from a state whose culture held the common view that dogs belong in the backyard, preferably in a pen. My husband, who was director of the city animal services division, was taken aback by the number of calls he got from owners asking for help catching their own dogs. In each case, the dog had escaped from his pen and, although still in a fenced yard, could not be recaptured by the owner. Paul finally asked one caller why he even had a dog, if all he did was keep it in a pen in the yard. The owner answered, “I just like looking out the window and seeing him there.”

Keeping a dog in a pen 24/7 falls woefully short of meeting a dog’s needs for mental and physical stimulation. I doubt there are many WDJ readers who would consider a pen in a yard to be an adequate environment for a canine companion. Still, I would bet that many otherwise responsible dog guardians fall somewhat short of meetings their dogs’ needs. If your dog is crated at night and lies around on his foam dog bed all day waiting for you to come home from work, you’d best be setting aside some quality morning and evening time for Rover.

An on-leash walk around the block is an exercise hors d’oeurve for many dogs. Barring physical infirmity or other frailty, every dog deserves a good aerobic workout – if not every day, at least every other day. If you don’t feel like a hike in the hills with your dog frolicking on a long-line, or off leash with a solid recall, at least give him a good round of Frisbee or tennis ball in the backyard on a reliably frequent basis. Not only will he be healthier, but it will help with behavior problems as well. A tired dog is a well-behaved dog.

While you’re at it, don’t forget mental exercise. When’s the last time you and Rover learned something new together? Maybe it’s time the two of you signed up for a class on freestyle or rally obedience. Other brainteasers? Find a good book on teaching tricks, or a copy of the “My Dog Can Do That” board game, and start having more fun with your dog while challenging canine and human brain cells.

Next time your dog brings you his leash or a toy, and says he wants to go for a walk or play with you, don’t dismiss him in annoyance and promise him a walk on the weekend. If you just want something to look at, get a picture of a dog and hang it on your wall. Life is short – play now!

3.) They ignore me when I’m good!
Dogs may not be able to articulate the principles of operant conditioning, but they understand them perfectly – especially the part about “Behaviors that are reinforced will increase.” The flip side of that says, “Behaviors that are not reinforced will decrease and eventually extinguish.”

We are a busy culture. We tend to ignore our dogs when they are behaving themselves, and pay attention when they are being difficult. By doing so, in essence we are punishing appropriate behaviors, and reinforcing inappropriate behaviors. That’s backward!

Dogs must find it frustrating when they perform a beautifully appropriate and rewardable behavior (such as sitting to greet you) and you are oblivious.

“Hey!” your dog thinks. “I’m sitting! Don’t I get a Click! and treat? Or at least a word of praise and a scratch behind the ear?” Preoccupied with planning dinner, or tomorrow’s budget meeting, you walk right past your sitting dog.

“’Scuse me,” your dog says as he puts his paws up on your $400 business suit and snags a thread. “Aren’t you supposed to reward me for sitting to greet you?”

“Not now, Rover!” you snap as you push him away.

“Well,” he sighs, “at least she spoke to me and touched me. I’ll have to try jumping up again next time.”

It’s easy to forget to pay attention to good behavior. You’re busy on your computer keyboard, and he’s sleeping quietly in the corner. He’s finally calm, and you don’t want to rile him up again. Just quietly croon to him, “Goooooood boy,” in a low voice. Or lean over and gently drop a treat in front of his nose. Make a pledge to notice (and reinforce) your dog’s good behavior at least three times a day. You’ll be surprised how easy it really is.

4.) Humans are so inconsistent!
Dogs don’t understand special occasions, or “just this once.” They do best with structure and consistency. If you let your dog up on the sofa today, don’t be surprised if he jumps up and makes himself at home tomorrow while you’re off at work. The best-behaved dogs are generally those who live in structured, consistent environments – where they can learn early on what works, and what doesn’t.

The best way to avoid confusing your dog with a lack of consistency is to set clear house rules and make sure the whole family follows them. Some of the things you may want to address in your family “Dog Rules” meeting might include:

• Is the dog allowed on any furniture? Some furniture? All furniture?

• Where will the dog sleep? In a crate? On someone’s bed? In whose room?

• When and where is he fed? Who is responsible for making sure he gets fed?

• Where is his bathroom? In the backyard? Anywhere in the yard, or in a designated spot? Who is his bathroom monitor?

• Who will train him? One person? The whole family? How do we make sure everyone is using the same training methods, philosophies, and cues?

• What games are okay to play? What are the “rules” of the games?

• What do we do about undesirable behavior? What if we “catch” him having an accident in the house? What if he tries to nip? What if he barks too much? What if he chews something? What if he chases the cat?

• Who will walk him? Exercise him?

Keep notes at the meeting, and write up the results. Post a list on the refrigerator of agreed-upon rules so everyone can remember to be consistent with the dog. If something isn’t working, discuss it and modify rules as needed.

Then remember that every time you are with your dog, you are training him. Make mental notes of behaviors he does that you like, and figure out how to consistently reinforce those. Make note of those you don’t like, and devise a plan to manage the behaviors so he can’t get rewarded for them. When he tries, divert him to a more acceptable, incompatible behavior. For example, if he jumps up, consistently reinforce sitting instead – he can’t jump up and sit at the same time.

The more consistent you can be with your reinforcements and your management, the sooner your dog’s world will make sense to him and the easier life will be for you both.

5.) Humans’ expectations are so unreasonable!
Imagine how upsetting it would be if your spouse announced one day that you were going to be his training partner for preparing to run the Boston Marathon – and you have bad knees and asthma. It’s not any different than if you decided you wanted your English Bulldog to start training for competitive agility – especially if his favorite activity is napping with you on your recliner. Certainly, a Bulldog could have fun doing agility, but if you expect him to outrun Border Collies, you’ll both end up upset and frustrated.

Your relationship with your dog will be much more rewarding for the two of you if you know and understand your dog’s talents and limitations, and work with them. If you have a Beagle or a Bloodhound, rather than being annoyed that his nose is always on the ground, get excited about a future in tracking. Maybe you can do Search and Rescue together, or develop a new career finding missing pets! If your Australian Kelpie drives you crazy chasing things that move, don’t lose your cool over your herding fool – get yourself a flock of sheep or Indian Runner ducks for her to round up and give her a meaningful job to do. Compatible cats may do, in a pinch.

Your Pomeranian may never win the Iditarod, but he could be a lovely freestyle partner, or the “size” dog on a flyball team. Be open to whatever gifts your dog has to share with you, and let them guide you to activities that you can find mutually rewarding. As Leslie Nelson, noted author and trainer, said at the 2004 Association of Pet Dog Trainers conference, “Appreciate (and love) the dog you have, not the one you wish you had.”

If you are successful at fixing the things you do to annoy your dog, you may be pleasantly surprised to find that he does fewer things to annoy you as well. Then, the next time you’re standing around with a group of dog owners who are complaining about their dog’s annoying behaviors, you’ll happily have nothing to contribute. Wouldn’t that be nice?

 

Savvy Salves for Dogs

Making Herbal Salves for Dogs: Overview

1. Below, learn how to make your own herb-infused oils and salves for fast, effective first-aid or protective treatments.

2. Shop for organic, cold-pressed seed or nut oils that are fresh, not rancid. Refrigerate for maximum shelf life.

3. Use carrier oils to protect wounds, speed healing, and improve skin and coat.

4. Combine carrier oils with essential oils to provide your dog with aromatherapy.

Whenever you’re blending a massage oil for your dog, diluting an essential oil, making a salve, or simply looking for ways to speed the healing of wounds or abrasions, reach for the right carrier oil.

Also called fixed oils or base oils, carrier oils literally carry or deliver essential oils or herbal ingredients where needed. Most are vegetable oils pressed from fruits, seeds, or nuts, and they contain important healing properties of their own.

materials needed to make homemade salve
Even a small batch of homemade salve will go a long way. Fill a variety of glass jars to make wonderful, inexpensive presents for all your dog-owning friends.

The carrier oils recommended here are appropriate for use on dogs of all ages (and on humans, from infants to elders).

Any vegetable oil will work as a carrier oil, including the cheapest cooking oils in your supermarket. Those oils, usually corn or soy, will dilute essential oils, moisturize, soften the skin, and provide a layer of protection, but they are avoided by most holistic practitioners because they contain solvent and pesticide residues. In addition, because unsaturated fats deteriorate rapidly, supermarket cooking oils are highly refined to retard spoilage, which changes their chemical composition and removes nutrients. For best results, shop local health food stores or online sources for organic oils. Check for rancidity; don’t use any vegetable oil that smells “off” or spoiled.

Carrier Oils for Herbal Remedies

The three types of carrier oils are basic, additive, and infused or macerated.

Basic carrier oils can be used by themselves or with essential oils for body massage and to moisturize and protect the skin. They tend to be pale or colorless, light rather than thick, and usually have little, if any, odor.

Additive carrier oils are heavier, more expensive, thicker, and often have a pronounced odor. Most are diluted with basic oils for topical application or used full-strength on small areas.

Infused or macerated carrier oils result when plant material is added to a basic oil (usually olive or sunflower) and gently heated, then strained. The plant’s oil-soluble compounds are transferred to the carrier oil, increasing its therapeutic qualities.

A favorite infused oil is calendula, made with fresh or dried blossoms of the European marigold, Calendula officinalis. Calendula is famous for its treatment of broken veins, varicose veins, bruises, burns, inflammation, skin lesions, and other skin problems. The retail price of four fluid ounces of organic calendula carrier oil ranges from $9 to $20, but you can make your own at a fraction of that cost.

St. John’s wort blossoms (Hypericum perforatum), which produce a deep red macerated oil, and comfrey leaves (Symphytum officinale), which produce a green oil, are prized for their ability to stimulate rapid wound healing, speed recovery from burns, reduce inflammation, repair nerve tissue damage, and heal the skin. These herb-infused oils are often combined with calendula oil for use as a stand-alone oil, as a carrier for essential oils, or as a salve.

However you create them, infused oils can be applied to a dog’s cuts, wounds, burns, or abrasions, or to dry, cracked skin on the nose or paw pads. Any essential oil can be added to infused carrier oils for therapeutic purposes, usually at the rate of three to five drops essential oil per teaspoon of carrier oil, or 10 to 15 drops per tablespoon.

Occasionally, carrier oils are used to dilute essential oils that are taken orally. All of the basic oils listed here are safe for a dog to lick, especially if from organic sources. However, try to keep your dog from licking salves and oils off as soon as they are applied. If the problem is a cut or wound that threatens to become a lick granuloma, more serious preventive measures, such as an Elizabethan collar, may be needed. For optimal healing, wounds should be treated, then left undisturbed for as long as possible.

Calendula Carrier Oil Recipe:

To make this infused or macerated oil, start with one quart or one liter of organic olive oil or a blend of olive and other oils, such as equal parts olive and jojoba, sunflower, safflower, or sweet almond oil, or use any basic oil or blend of oils.

If you have access to fresh calendula, which is easy to grow in sunny locations, infuse its orange or yellow blossoms just after picking. Bulk herb suppliers sell dried calendula, and some herb farms or herbal supply companies sell fresh blossoms in season.

In the top of a double boiler that has water in the lower pan, combine one quart oil and eight ounces (by weight) of fresh calendula blossoms or four ounces (by weight) of dried calendula. Cover the upper pan and bring the lower pan to a simmer.

Alternatively, loosely fill a glass canning jar with fresh or dried calendula blossoms, then fill the jar with oil to about an inch from the top. Wipe the rim to be sure it is clean and dry, then close the lid. Place the jar on a rack in a pot of hot water and bring the water to a slow simmer. For best results, use a pot large enough for water to surround the jar.

Or simply combine oil and blossoms in a ceramic slow cooker set to low heat. If making a small batch (less than one quart), use the “keep warm” setting and extend heating time.

Using any of these methods, let the blossoms infuse for four hours or longer. Check to be sure the oil doesn’t get hot enough to smoke or burn. The heat should be gentle. If using a double boiler or glass jar, replenish simmering water as needed. Infusing for 12 to 24 hours produces a deeper yellow/orange color. Turn heat off and let the oil stand until cool, then strain through cheesecloth. The oil will be clear and golden. Add the contents of a 400-IU liquid vitamin E capsule for each fluid ounce of oil (eight capsules per cup or 32 per quart) as a preservative.

To create a solar infusion, combine fresh or dried calendula with oil in a clean glass canning jar and leave it in hot summer sunlight as long as possible. A jar with a tightly sealed lid can be left outdoors for months, absorbing the sun’s energy. Many herbalists consider solar infusions superior to those made by other methods.

How to Make A Salve

Infused carrier oils, with or without the addition of essential oils, can be turned into salves for the treatment of wounds, skin cracks, abrasions, burns, and other injuries. Simply warm strained oil over gentle heat and add one to two ounces beeswax (available from beekeepers or herbal supply companies) to each cup of oil. Continue warming the oil until the beeswax melts.

Place a tablespoon of the salve in the freezer until it’s cool, then check the consistency. If it’s too hard, add more oil to your mix; if it’s too soft, add more beeswax. Aim for a salve that is thick but not solid. Soft salves are easy to apply without applying pressure to injuries. When the salve is perfect, pour it into small jars and label. If desired, add several drops of essential oil just before or after pouring into jars. The result will be a versatile, soothing, healing salve for human and canine use.

All About Basic Carrier Oils

All of the following can be used full-strength or combined with other oils. For best results, buy organic, cold-pressed, unrefined oils and check for spoilage before use. Most of these oils benefit from refrigeration. To use vitamin E as a natural preservative, add 400 IU liquid vitamin E to each fluid ounce of oil.

Some carrier oils and additives are especially well suited to specific conditions, helping you choose from what may seem like a bewildering assortment of possibilities. Other factors are availability and cost. Most health food stores carry several good-quality carrier oils, but their selection of special additives tends to be limited. Visit the Web sites or send for catalogs from our recommended resources (bottom of page) for additional information and recommendations.

• Almond oil (Prunus amygdalus). Also called sweet almond oil, this popular carrier oil contains protein, glucosides, minerals, and vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, and E. Almond oil is very pale yellow and has a subtle fragrance. Widely used as a massage oil because it lubricates and protects without being quickly absorbed, almond oil is recommended for skin conditions such as eczema, dryness, inflammation, muscle soreness, and itching. In addition, it helps heal burns.

• Apricot kernel oil (Prunus armeniaca). Rich in vitamin A, apricot kernel oil is pale yellow and has a light, pleasant texture. Appropriate for all skin conditions, it nourishes and helps heal sensitive, delicate, dry, inflamed, or aged skin.

• Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera). There are three types of coconut oil: fractionated, refined (also labeled RBD, for refined, bleached, and deodorized), and virgin or unrefined.

a dog with a dry, cracked nose
Cracked, dry skin on your dog’s nose or paw pads will improve with just a few applications of a healing, moisturizing ointment made from olive oil and calendula.

Because fractionated and refined oils have been stripped of every possible contaminant, they have an unlimited shelf life and keep for years without refrigeration. They are also rich in lauric acid and contain saturated fats, making them more compatible with skin than most vegetable seed oils.

Fans of unrefined or virgin coconut oil consider this type superior because it contains more nutrients and is a more natural product. Unrefined coconut oils usually have a pronounced coconut fragrance, while refined and fractionated coconut oils are odorless. Unlike fractionated coconut oil, both RBD and unrefined coconut oils are solid at temperatures below 75° F, so in cold weather, they have to be warmed before application, or they can be blended with vegetable seed oils, which remain liquid.

• Emu oil. No, it’s not a vegetable oil, but emu oil (from the Australian birds that resemble ostriches) has become a popular treatment for muscle pain, sore joints, arthritis, eczema, psoriasis, hair loss, skin fungus, and other conditions. It works well as a massage oil and as a carrier oil for essential oils, has a mild fragrance, and is quickly absorbed.

• Grapeseed oil (Vitis vinifera). This colorless, odorless, light oil penetrates quickly, toning and tightening the skin. A gentle, non-greasy emollient.

• Hazelnut oil (Corylus avellana). Hazelnut oil contains protein, vitamins, minerals, oleic acid, and linoleic acid. Slightly astringent, it strengthens capillaries, stimulates circulation, and is quickly absorbed.

• Jojoba (Simmondsia californica). Technically a plant wax or ester, jojoba contains protein, minerals, and myristic acid. It closely resembles sebum, making it an excellent treatment for psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, dandruff, and all skin and hair conditions. Jojoba is an antioxidant, which helps preserve other carrier oils in blends. It never goes rancid and does not require refrigeration.

• Olive oil (Olea europaea). The world’s most widely used carrier oil, olive oil is green in color and contains protein, minerals, and vitamins. It’s been used for thousands of years for skin and hair care, as a massage oil for rheumatic joints, and to soothe and heal wounds. But olive oil has a pronounced fragrance, and the less refined and more natural the oil, the more it smells like olives, enough to overwhelm all but the most strongly scented essential oils.

Herbalists often use olive oil to prepare herbal oil infusions (macerated oils) that are used as lotions or thickened to make salves. Olive oil is useful for all skin and hair conditions, as well as bruises, sprains, and joint inflammation.

Use it full-strength or in any dilution. Unlike most vegetable oils, olive oil does not require refrigeration or the addition of antioxidants to retard rancidity.

Squalene is a moisturizer extracted from olive oil. It is also a natural component of young skin, and its decline after adolescence contributes to the aging process. Clear and colorless, squalene looks like water. Because it both moisturizes the skin and creates a barrier that seals in moisture, squalene is an ideal ingredient for blends that treat chapped, dry, or scaly skin, eczema, or contact dermatitis. Some aromatherapy supply companies sell squalene.

• Safflower oil (Carthamus tinctorius). High in linoleic acid, protein, vitamins, and minerals, safflower oil is very light and odorless. It’s useful for all skin types and helps relieve the inflammation of painful sprains, bruises, and painful joints.

• Sesame oil (Sesamum indicum). Thick and with a strong fragrance (even stronger if you buy toasted sesame oil), this seed oil contains vitamin E, minerals, proteins, lecithin, and amino acids. It’s an effective treatment for psoriasis, eczema, rheumatism, and arthritis, and it softens the skin.

• Soy oil (Gllycine soja). Soybean oil is the most widely used vegetable oil in America’s food supply, but almost all of it is solvent-extracted from pesticide-treated plants that are genetically engineered. The exceptions are sold in health food stores and by some aromatherapy supply companies. A light oil with a mild scent, organic soy oil is suitable for all skin types.

• Sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus). High in unsaturated fatty acids and containing vitamins A, B, D, and E plus minerals, lecithin, and inulin, sunflower oil has a light texture and is easily absorbed. Beneficial for all skin types, sunflower oil is used to treat leg ulcers and skin disease, bruises, diaper rash, and cradle cap.

Not Recommended for Use As Carrier Oil:

• Mineral oil, a petrochemical by-product used in most baby oils, is not recommended for pet use or for aromatherapy. Mineral oil is a harsh laxative when taken internally (or licked and swallowed), and its large molecules interfere with the absorption of essential oils.

Add These Oils to Your Salve:

You can blend some of these with your carrier oil for added benefits. Most aromatherapists recommend that additives like those listed below make up no more than 10 to 15 percent of the carrier oil blend because of their expense, because some of them can irritate the skin or eyes when used in large quantities, or because of their consistency. All of the additive oils work very well in blends.

• Avocado oil (Persea spp.). Dark green, thick, and heavy, avocado oil is pressed from the fruit of the avocado and contains protein, vitamins, lecithin, and fatty acids. It is recommended for all skin types, especially dry, dehydrated skin, and it is often used in blends that treat eczema. Use up to 10 percent in a carrier oil blend.

• Black currant seed oil (Ribes nigrum). High in gamma linolenic acids, black currant seed oil is similar to evening primrose and borage seed oils. Use up to 10 percent in a carrier oil blend.

• Borage seed oil (Borago officinalis). Best known as a nutritional supplement for menopausal problems and heart disease, borage seed oil contains gamma linolenic acid (GLA), vitamins, and minerals. This pale yellow oil is an effective treatment for psoriasis, eczema, and aging skin. Deeply penetrating, it stimulates skin cell activity and regeneration. Use up to 10 percent in a carrier oil blend.

• Calophyllum or tamanu oil (Calophyllum inophyllum). Pressed from the fruit and seed of the tamanu tree of India and Polynesia, calophyllum oil is thick, rich, and delicately nutty or spicy. It is also one of the most prized oils for healing wounds, burns, rashes, insect bites, broken capillaries, skin cracks, eczema, psoriasis, and other skin conditions. This oil can be used full-strength but usually makes up 25 to 50 percent of carrier oil blends.

• Evening primrose oil (Oenothera biennis). Like black currant and borage seed oils, evening primrose oil is a rich source of gamma linolenic acid as well as vitamins and minerals. As a food supplement, it’s used to treat premenstrual tension, multiple sclerosis, and symptoms of menopause. As a topical oil, it treats psoriasis and eczema and speeds the healing of wounds. Use up to 10 percent in a carrier oil blend.

• Flax seed oil (Linum usitatissimum). Flax seed oil is high in essential fatty acids, vitamin E, and minerals. Although usually sold as a nutritional supplement, its topical application benefits skin, speeds wound-healing, prevents scarring, and treats eczema and psoriasis. Use 10 to 50 percent in a carrier oil blend. This is a fragile oil, so freshness and refrigeration are important.

a variety of edible oils on a shelf at a health food store
If you look at your local health food store, you might be surprised by the variety of healthy oils it carries.

• Kukui nut oil (Aleurites moluccana). This rapidly absorbed nut oil is high in linoleic and oleic acids, soothing skin irritations, burns, and lesions. In addition to leaving dry, rough skin feeling soft and smooth, kukui nut is said to prevent scarring when applied to wounds or abrasions. Use 5 to 10 percent in a carrier oil blend.

• Rose hip seed oil (Rosa mosquette, R. rubiginosa). Pressed from the seeds of wild roses that grow in the Andes Mountains, rose hip seed oil is reddish orange in color and rich in nutrients that regenerate damaged skin, reduce scar tissue, and help heal wounds, burns, and eczema. Use full-strength on wounds or scars; add up to 25 percent to carrier oil blends. Spoils easily; check for rancidity.

• Shea butter.Unrefined, this nut butter can be brown and smelly, but most refined shea butter is processed with hexane, which herbalists and aromatherapists try to avoid. Look for filtered shea butter (solid at room temperature), as this is a rich emollient that thickens carrier oils. Use up to 10 percent in oil blends, more in salves.

Recommended Resources for Using Aromatherapy on Dogs

Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals: A Comprehensive Guide to the Use of Essential Oils and Hydrosols with Animals by Kristen Leigh Bell (Findhorn Press, 2002).

Auroma USA, Wheaton, IL. Carrier oils.

Boston Jojoba, Boston, MA. Jojoba oil.

Florapathics Organic Living, Houston, TX. Carrier oils.

Jaffe Brothers, Valley Center, CA. Carrier oils.

Jean’s Greens, Schodack, NY. Herb-infused carrier oils, bulk herbs.

Mountain Rose Herbs, Eugene, OR. Herb-infused oils, carrier oils, herbs.

Nature’s Gift, Madison, TN. Online orders preferred. Carrier oils.

Simplers Botanicals, Sebastopol, CA. Herb-infused oils.

SunRose Aromatics, Bronx, NY. Carrier oils.

Shopping for Nutritional Supplements For Your Dog

By Shannon Wilkinson

Every two weeks I faithfully fill the pill organizers for my Boxer, Tyler. He receives a number of supplements, some for general nutrition and well-being, and some specific to his particular health challenges, including Addison’s disease.

I’m not the only one performing this ritual. According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, about nine percent of all dogs receive vitamins regularly; perhaps an even greater percentage of WDJ readers give supplements to their canine companions.

The pet supplement market has erupted into a billion-dollar industry – yes, that’s billion with a B. There is a dizzying array of pet specific supplements available in stores, catalogs, and online, and the choices are growing all of the time. While this means there are more options available for your dog, it also means that you may have a more difficult time making the right choice.

“This is a buyer-beware industry,” says Bill Bookout, president of the National Animal Supplement Council, based in Valley Center, California. Bookout cautions, “There are responsible producers and there are opportunistic suppliers, and there’s no easy way to tell the difference.”

The National Animal Supplement Council, formed in 2001, is attempting to help consumers identify which manufacturers are the responsible ones. The NASC’s mission is to ensure the continued availability of animal supplements and to standardize quality in the industry.

To that end, the group has established quality guidelines for supplement manufacturers and has created a seal for manufacturers to include on their labels and marketing materials to signal to consumers that the company and its products meet those guidelines. The NASC’s guidelines were developed with help and input from members of the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine and Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO).

When choosing products for your dog, the NASC is a good place to start. “With a very few exceptions, I would avoid companies that are not members of the NASC,” advises holistic veterinarian Susan Wynn, of Acworth, Georgia. She adds, “You know these companies care about elevating the standards of the industry, doing the right thing regarding adverse events, good manufacturing practices, etc.”

Paying the annual dues doesn’t guarantee a company membership in the NASC. In fact, Bookout says that some companies have been asked to leave the organization for failure to comply with its standards. The self-regulating organization has a number of stringent requirements for its members, including:

1. The company must have a quality manual in place that provides written standard operating procedures for production process control.

2. The company must have an adverse event reporting/complaint system in place to continually monitor and evaluate products, and must report monthly to the NASC any adverse events, or confirm that there were no adverse events to report.

3. The company must follow proper label guidelines for all products, avoiding the use of statements that suggest that the product diagnoses, treats, prevents, or cures any disease.

4. The company must include any specific warning and cautionary statements recommended by the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine and the NASC Scientific Advisory Committee, or any other recommendations made by the NASC Scientific Advisory Committee.

5. A company representative must attend at least one NASC meeting annually to stay abreast of industry developments.

Choose animal-specific products when available
Experts agree, the best choice for your dog is a supplement formulated specifically for dogs. “In my opinion, owners should only use animal products. These products have the correct dose listed on the label and the manufacturer bears some responsibility if something happens related to administration of the product,” says Dr. Wynn.

Bookout adds, “Animal products are formulated for animal metabolisms by people who know animals.” In addition to his position in the NASC, Bookout is the founder and president of Genesis Ltd., maker of supplements for cats and dogs under the Resources brand name.

Joan Holden and her husband Frank started making supplements specifically for animals more than 10 years ago, when there weren’t many options on the market. “We tried to use people products for our Golden Retrievers, but the dosages were off, and we couldn’t find exactly what we were looking for,” she explains. The Holdens founded Merritt Naturals, which is now called Animal Essentials after its merger with herbal products developer Animals Apawthecary.

Quality ingredients
“Cheap products are cheap for a reason,” says Bookout. For example, active ingredients, such as chondroitin, are available in widely varying levels of purity; this affects the cost of the raw ingredient. While some ingredients are available for a good value, if a product is significantly less expensive than similar items, there is probably a good reason.

Conversely, higher cost doesn’t always translate to a better product. Companies have different marketing and advertising costs, as well as distribution systems, such as only through veterinarians or specific retailers, all of which may increase or decrease the price. One way to understand the real value of a product is to compare the active ingredients per dose.

Animal Essentials uses only human-grade ingredients in its products, choosing organic and natural options when available. “We don’t add any sugars, fillers, or preservatives, nothing to entice [dogs] to eat the products,” says Holden. She adds, “If you need your dictionary to know what an ingredient is, it’s probably not necessary.”

There are a number of common inert ingredients that are used to help form the active ingredients into the proper form or consistency, such as a tablet or capsule. Called excipients, these ingredients are generally considered to be safe. However, they may be the hidden cause of allergic reactions. For example, the gelatin used to make a capsule could cause a reaction in an animal highly allergic to beef. For this reason, it may be best for some animals to choose products with the fewest ingredients possible, in a natural form, such as a powder.

Clear information on labels
The label should be clear and easy to read. It should contain a complete listing of ingredients, including the active as well as the inactive, or inert, ingredients. It should also say how much of each active ingredient is in each unit or dose, whether it’s a scoop, tablet, or dropper. This information will help you ensure that your dog will get a therapeutic dose of the active ingredient in an easy-to-administer amount. It also allows you to compare different products with similar ingredients.

Also, look for an expiration date and a lot number on the package. “A lot number shows the company is tracking the product and has an eye toward quality. If there’s a problem, without a lot number, the company can’t do a recall,” explains Bookout.

Reputable companies
Contact information should be easily found on the label. If the company isn’t a member of NASC, visit the company’s Web site. Call the company and ask about its quality program, who formulated its products, and what customer support the company provides.

Avoid overzealous marketers and products that promise miracles. Manufacturers of supplements are not allowed to make claims about a product’s ability to treat or cure disease. However, statements regarding how the supplement can impact structure or function of the body are acceptable. For example, a glucosamine/chondroitin supplement can say that it contributes to healthy joints, but it cannot say that it cures osteoarthritis.

-Shannon Wilkinson is a freelance writer, life coach, and TTouch practitioner in Portland, OR. She remembers to give her dog and cats their supplements every day, but rarely remembers to take her own vitamins.

What Would You Do?

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What do you do, what do you say? When you’re out in the world somewhere and you’re the token “dog person” and you’re witness to a dog (or a dog owner) engaged in some behavior that so appalls you that you feel kind of guilty by association?

For example, a few weeks ago, I was enjoying an early breakfast with my husband at our favorite bagel shop. Into the restaurant and up to the takeout counter walks a lady with a large mixed-breed dog on a leash. The counter person, a shy young Asian girl, smiles uncomfortably at the health-code violation, but simply asks the woman what she would like – no doubt hoping it’s something she can hand to the woman quickly and get her out of there.

But the woman orders something complex, and then sits down at a table in the restaurant, prepared to wait – with the dog wandering around the table, sniffing for scraps.

My husband – not a dog lover – gives me a look. I look at him and make a face, and then look pointedly back at my newspaper. Out of the corner of my eye I see other diners exchange eye rolls and looks of distaste, but no one says anything to the lady with the dog.

Then the dog somehow slips his collar and comes trotting over to our table, where he dives underneath for a crust. His owner seems not the slightest bit distressed, but comes over and hauls him by the scruff out from under our table, apologizing, sort of, for the collar! My husband is looking very disgusted, but I bury my head in the paper, pretending I’m not seeing this. I can tell he’s on the verge of erupting.

Finally her order is ready and the woman goes to the register to pay. The counter girl reaches to hand over the food, and – the coup de grace – the dog jumps up on the counter with his front paws to reach for what he undoubtedly thought was a treat for him. The girl lets out an involuntary shriek . . . and my husband has had enough.

“Ma’am?” he barks. “Are you aware it’s illegal to have a dog in a restaurant? Not to mention rude? Not to mention you have no control over that dog?” Of course she’s aware of that! Before he says more she smirks with a fake smile and says, “Oh, gosh, thanks!” and walks out, leaving my husband fuming. “These are your people,” he says to me, as if I’m somehow responsible for all dog owners.

Am I?

I’ll admit I was being a chicken, hiding behind my paper and hoping the woman and her dog would go away. I had barely even started my coffee. But I know plenty of other people who would have gone over to the lady and asked her – politely or not – to take the dog outside. I have friends who probably would have offered to go outside and hold the dog’s leash (and tightened his collar!) while the lady paid for and picked up her order.

I’ve been thinking about it for a few weeks, and I think I erred in not saying or doing something. People like that lady – and people who don’t pick up their dogs’ poop, or allow their dogs to run up to and jump on people (with the famous cry of, “He’s nice! He won’t hurt you!”) – make all of us dog owners look bad. The next thing you know, the restaurant owners may ban dogs from their outdoor tables. But how do you effectively handle one of these inconsiderate people without being a jerk yourself? Ideas?

 

-Nancy Kerns

Puppy Training Classes Teach Self Control

by Caryl-Rose Pofcher

Hera is an nine-year-old spayed English Bulldog. Today I know to describe her as “reactive.” She has also been called aggressive, stubborn, willful, dominant, stupid, bad, and even conniving.

She is a “crossover dog,” meaning that we, her humans, started off using techniques that included jerking and pulling on her leash and collar, a choke collar, a prong collar, and even growling at her. Of course, we also used praise and some treats. Later, we “crossed over” to using only positive techniques and relied heavily on the clicker.

During the first four years of her life, when we used those earlier techniques, Hera became more reactive. She became faster to “launch” into a mindless fit of barking, growling, and pulling, more intense in her reactions. Although it was her reactivity to other dogs that we focused on, it wasn’t limited to dogs: roller bladers; skateboarders; bicycles; wheelbarrows; big trucks; buses; motorcycles; flags fluttering overhead; people walking past her with fluttery or dangly things like handbags, briefcases, long flowing skirts, or belts dangling from trench coats; an upstairs window opening as she walked past – and then there was the day she eyed an electric wheel chair! Squirrels weren’t safe from her attempts, nor was the occasional horse we’d see in parks or police horseback patrols.

I write this with a certain lightness of tone but make no mistake: Hera’s lunges were frightening. A Bulldog has muscle and strength, a low center of gravity, large chest, big head, big neck, and strong jaws with a large, tooth-filled mouth. She would lunge and snarl furiously. While engaged in these outbursts she displayed a glazed intensity that was frightening and potentially dangerous.

My husband, Billy, and I were the barely effective anchors at the end of her leash, preventing her from getting full speed and achieving her goals. Sometimes I would almost be knocked off my feet by her sudden sprint after something or other. On multiple occasions, in desperation, to stop being dragged forward, I hooked my arm around a parking meter or lamppost. My shoulder was wrenched many times. When in reactive mode, Hera, a 68-pound Bulldog, could and did pull me, a 115-pound woman, down the street almost at will. Those parking meters were part of my safety strategy!

Unlike the typical phlegmatic image of the bulldog, Hera is agile, fast, strong, and athletic. And highly reactive.

How did this happen?
We started a 12-week puppy training class when Hera was 10 weeks old (it actually lasted 15 weeks because of a few interruptions in the schedule). We were told Hera was skittish, timid, stubborn, and fearful and that we had to show her we were in charge and expose her to a lot of new things.

To demonstrate these pronouncements, the assistant instructor once picked up a large dictionary and briskly walked straight toward us. As she approached, Hera turned her side to the approaching human and sidestepped back a bit. The assistant dropped the book to the floor with a great “slam,” inches from Hera, who skittered back and pulled to move away further. We were told to prevent her from getting further away and to ignore her.

Hera didn’t recover from that startle; she never came forward to curiously sniff the offending object, but continued trying to get away until the instructor finally said we could walk away with her.

In retrospect, I believe this and other events helped our skittish puppy learn that the world was not safe and that we, her humans, did not protect her.

We were the “bad apple” in puppy class, told by the instructor that we needed a choke collar and had to teach Hera who was in charge before it was too late. “Too late” raised dire images in our minds but we dared not asked for clarification, afraid we’d be told our beloved puppy was going to be a vicious monster. We were told her neck was very strong and we had to yank very hard in order to communicate with her.

We worked harder and followed instructions; Hera became harder to control, more apt to lunge, and less and less attentive to us. So we tried harder.

Hera knew how to “sit” prior to class. I’d read a dog training book and learned to lure her into a sit with a treat held over her head and moved back toward her tail. It worked quickly and was a game that we both seemed to enjoy. She loved to do “sit,” sometimes earning a treat or piece of kibble for the act, always earning praise. I looked forward to the class teaching us how to get a “down” in a similar fashion.

It didn’t happen that way. In class, we were told to teach “sit” by pushing on her butt and pulling up on the leash while saying “Sit.” We said she already knew. We were told she would now learn a new way. We were told to push. We pushed. She resisted. By the end of the class, “sit” had gone to hell in a handbasket!

We tried to obey our instructors, but a lot of what we were told to do felt wrong and uncomfortable to us, and so we complied erratically. Not surprisingly, Hera’s behavior became worse.

Hera always seemed excited about class, pulling to get inside, winding up as soon as we’d drive into the parking lot. On the way home, she was increasingly hard to control, lunging and pulling at every dog, a leaf blowing across our path, or a sudden sound.

At home she was our dear puppy, the love of our lives. However, we were disappointed she never snuggled. She stayed close but shunned curling up with us. She was also face shy and didn’t like grooming.

Hera was 25 weeks old at the end of the class. She had gained a great deal of strength and we had started to worry. She got her “diploma” but we also got a “look” when it was handed to us. We knew we had failed.

The owners’ education begins
Over the next few months, I started reading about dog behavior and training. My husband was happy to leave it in my hands. He was the one who wanted a dog in the first place, but this wasn’t what either of us anticipated! I think he was relieved that I took on the project.

I talked with the owners of Hera’s parents and learned that her father was equally reactive and reactive to similar triggers. His owners described him as “energetic and interested in everything.” But when I got details, and later watched them walk him down a city street, I saw he was highly reactive to most of the same triggers as our girl. He spent most of his life on a prong collar, kept on a short leash.

Hera’s mother exhibited reactivity less often, perhaps because in general she was a more sluggish dog. Her owners described her as “feisty” but only if something got close enough. Ah yes, Mom had a hair trigger when something was within her range.

I saw that we were probably dealing with a combination of genetics and our own lack of understanding. I started to seriously educate myself, becoming more selective about techniques I would use and would not use. As you’ll see, this education lead me on a life path I’d never anticipated.

Trying “teenage” times
At adolescence, Hera’s troubling behaviors outside the house intensified. She had been “the cute Bulldog puppy” at the dog park, but she soon became “that bad dog.” She had some spats, and would run across the dog park to jump on various dogs, snarling and growling when she reached them. We tried to identify trends in what would set her off, and thought we did see some, but there were exceptions to every “rule” we observed. She jumped some dogs who seemed to be minding their own business as well as dogs who seemed to be approaching her. She ignored other dogs who seemed to be minding their own business and some who seemed to be approaching her.

The good news was that she had good bite inhibition; she never broke the skin of the other dog. (She did, however, knock them down and mouth them, looking for all the world like she was tearing their throats out.) And often she played with other dogs, wrestling, taking turns being on top or bottom, mouthing gently and being mouthed. She chased and was chased, but generally couldn’t keep up with the longer-legged pups. She had favorite playmates at the park, a German Shepherd Dog pup who would drag her around by her scruff and a Pit Bull with whom she loved to wrestle.

But our last day at the dog park was the day that I heard someone say, as we approached the dog park gate, “Hera’s here!” and someone else respond, “I was just about ready to leave anyway.”

More unhelpful training
When Hera was about 18 months, we went to an adult dog training class. This instructor told us to use a prong collar. We bought one but often we “forgot” to bring it to class. We walked her with it a couple of times but just couldn’t get ourselves comfortable with the tool even after we’d followed the instructor’s directions to put it around our own thighs and jerk so we’d know it didn’t hurt terribly much. Bulldogs have a very thick, muscular neck and a very high pain threshold. Still, we didn’t use the prong collar much or consistently.

When the class practiced loose leash walking by zigzagging around the room, Hera would lunge at the other dogs. Hera was the only dog who didn’t pass the Canine Good Citizen (CGC) test in the class. She was given a diploma, but again, we knew it wasn’t “earned.”

During this time, Hera began exhibiting a new frightening behavior: jumping on anyone holding a live thing, such as a baby, another dog, or a cat. She would jump with a glazed look in her eyes, pupils dilated, seemingly obsessed. She didn’t bite or grab, but she would keep jumping until one of us could tackle her and manhandle her away.

This behavior made it more and more difficult to take Hera anywhere “safe” to let her off-leash. One spring morning, on a weekday about 6 a.m., when I thought it would be safe to take Hera to the beach for an off-leash romp, Hera spotted a man walking carrying an infant. I caught up with her as she was making her second or third jump up the man’s leg, and I body-tackled her. She squirmed away. Terrified, I grabbed her again and managed to instruct the understandably upset man to, “Please go away!” He asked what was the matter with my dog. I wished I knew!

So when Hera was about three years old, we brought in a dog behaviorist who met with us in our own home to see Hera’s environment and behavior. We were introduced to the concept of “nothing in life is free” (NILIF), where the dog has to perform some sort of behavior, on cue, before he “earns” any sort of reward – attention, food, a toy, affection, going outside, jumping up on the couch, etc. And we were told to repeatedly practice a very good “sit” and “down” so she would sit on command instead of jumping or lunging.

But the trainer also asked us why we didn’t put this dog down and get the dog we had intended: a malleable, obedient dog who would walk quietly on leash and sit beside me at cafes. We were frightened by the implication that her behavior was so bad the behaviorist was indirectly suggesting she be killed.

Even so, the consultation was helpful. NILIF gave us a good tool, and Hera’s sit became better, although it never was “strong” enough to interfere with her jumping or lunging. When she did a “down” at all, it was never for more than two seconds.

Concerned that all the pulling that she did on leash could damage Hera’s small Bulldog trachea, we changed to a harness. This eliminated pressure on her throat but also gave her even greater pulling leverage.

Life-changing events
When Hera was four, life changed for all of us. I moved to Washington, DC, for a four-month work assignment. I took Hera with me, since I would have ample time to spend with her after work. I vowed to spend the four months with a dog trainer who didn’t use physical force and who would work with us individually to make our walks less fraught with peril. Literally, that was my goal. I still have it written down on the form I completed for the instructor, Penelope Brown, of Phi Beta K-9 in DC.

Brown introduced me to the clicker and positive training, and I think of her as our turning point, our savior, who changed our lives. I tried to argue her out of the clicker, saying, “But I already have the leash in one hand, treats and poop bags in my pocket, a water bottle for the dog, and maybe, just maybe, I’d like to carry a coffee mug for me!” She was patient, knowledgeable, humorous, and persistent. I learned to use a clicker, stopped trying to carry a coffee mug, and learned to consider all of our walks as training opportunities.

Under Brown’s tutelage, Hera and I had a great four months! Not only did our walks become “less fraught with peril,” Hera finally learned to walk past other dogs without lunging, as long as I worked with her and we had a space of about 12 feet between them.

When we started, Hera’s “launch point” was two blocks away from another dog, with the dog on the opposite side of the street and walking away from us. I learned to read her body language and to scan our environment. Hera would see a dog and I’d “click” before she launched and shove a handful of treats in her face, as both classical conditioning to change her underlying emotional response to the sight and presence of other dogs, and, increasingly, as a reward for not launching herself toward the other dog.

I also learned to position treats in such a way so as to break her gaze and lure her away from the other dog. If she launched before I could do that, I learned to turn us away anyway and use that same handful of treats for classical conditioning.

We progressed. After about six weeks, Hera’s launch point had changed from two blocks to one. At this point, I added operant conditioning in that second block distance. When she looked at the other dog but did not display any aggression, I clicked and gave her a treat. In time, she learned to look at the dog and then turn to look at me on her own.

After about another month, if the dog was on the other side of the street, it could be coming toward us and pass (on the other side of the street) without a noticeable reaction from Hera. After another two or three weeks, the dog could be on the same side of the street walking in front of us/away from us, or behind us/not catching up, at a distance of about half a block. If I kept clicking and giving her treats at a rapid rate, she didn’t launch.

I continued to build on her progress, by spacing out the clicks, allowing her to look longer, one moment at a time, at the other dog. I became far more adept at reading her body language, and saw that now she would see another dog and “freeze,” not instantly launch. I observed that if the freeze lasted more than about two or three seconds, there was a higher likelihood that she would launch. If she broke the freeze before that, she was likely to initiate play if the dog was close or simply keep moving if the dog was farther off. So I would click and treat (if the other dog was far enough away for me to safely introduce food into the scene) after a two-second freeze. Hera would turn to me for the treat and that broke the freeze. Then she could look back at the dog and we’d repeat.

Sometimes I’d click and treat as I walked us away. I tried to judge the amount of tension Hera could tolerate before going “mindless.” The more we worked with positive techniques, the more self-control Hera gained.

More positive help
Hera and I returned home after my four-month assignment with a whole new bag of tricks to teach my husband! It was clear at this point I had become Hera’s primary trainer.

I looked for and found another wonderful positive trainer, this one near Boston. Emma Parsons, of The Creative Canine, in North Chelms-ford, Massachusetts, had personal experience with a dog-aggressive dog. She brought us further along our path and served as a living role model, proof positive that at least one woman and one dog had come out the other side of this nightmare. Parsons’ dog had been in competitions, could walk through a show area full of dogs, and lived at home with other dogs. I was heartened.

Parsons put us together with a local dog training club that kindly let us walk around on the edges of their classes. Hera and I could practice being calm in an environment full of dogs – an inside environment, very different and actually much harder for Hera than outdoors. Parsons was very patient and creative in teaching us what we needed to learn.

Sometimes it helps to see how someone else does something to make the words of instruction “real.” I had thought I was giving Hera lots of treats as we walked through dog-filled sections of the room but still she would frequently lunge at the other dogs. Then our trainer showed me, using her own dog, what she meant by giving treats “frequently” – at least five times the rate I was using! That was a major breakthrough in my learning and in Hera’s behavior.

I also learned that Hera was more stressed by a dog coming right at us than by a dog coming toward us at an angle. So, if a dog was coming right at us, we’d veer off and angle our direction.

I learned to walk while giving a lot of information to Hera: frequent clicks for calm behavior with lots and lots of really great treats, treats shoveled into Hera’s mouth as she took non-lunging step after non-lunging step. I was lucky. Some reactive dogs become so stressed that they won’t take even high-value treats, but Hera almost always took them.

My goal expanded from being able to walk my dog on city streets past other dogs, to being able to walk with her safely on a beach, where loose dogs could approach us without Hera exhibiting aggressive behavior. Eventually, we actually got there.

Advanced education: Dealing with loose dogs
First, Hera began to have more dog friends, walking companions. She’s always had at least a couple, so we had that to build from. Each dog was introduced to our social circle slowly and carefully, with me orchestrating the meetings until the dogs were at ease, usually for three or four meetings. I let them see each other at a distance, with lots of clicks and treats for Hera, zigzag walking around, progressing to some parallel walking, sometimes on opposite sides of the street, sometimes with the other dog on the same side and ahead of us.

Gradually I would close the distance for brief periods, extend the periods, close a bit more but for shorter periods, then gradually lengthen those periods.

Vivid in my memory is the day Hera was startled by the sudden appearance of a dog coming out of a door just yards in front of us. She froze, stared, and turned to look at me on her own! She had made the choice to look away in a highly charged situation! Treats flowed into her mouth for that, a jackpot like no other jackpot!

After that, I’d keep Hera’s attention ping-ponging between other dogs and me by clicking/treats for her voluntary head turn or clicking/treats to break the stare if I felt it was going on too long. When I misjudged and waited too long, she would launch. But “too long” varied and generally was getting to be a longer and longer time.

I learned to take things in smaller steps than I’d ever considered. When I could control the situation, I kept these sessions short (two to five minutes). When I couldn’t (dog off leash with no handler), they lasted as long as they lasted.

When Hera did play with another dog, while she was playing, I frequently repeated “Friend, Hera, it’s a friend!” I used a particular tone of voice and rhythm saying this phrase. For several months, I used it only when she was relaxed and playing with another dog.

Later, on the beach, if a loose dog came toward us, I would click and treat while it was at a safe enough distance to introduce food. When the other dog moved closer, I would start my “Friend, Hera, it’s a friend!” cue. I watched Hera and the other dog and if needed, I would step between them to break any intensity Hera might display. As the distance closed, I kept Hera’s attention ping-ponging between the dog and me, as described above. The dogs often got to meet but I orchestrated the lead-up and the actual meeting. I ended the meeting if I saw too much tension.

If the other dog was loose and seemed threatening, simply rude, or determined to come greet Hera when I could see Hera did not want this, I would sometimes toss some treats at the feet of the approaching dog to distract him. If he took those, my next toss would be over his head or to his side so he would turn for them. That made it much easier for Hera to turn away, too. Sometimes I looked at the other dog and said “SIT!” Amazingly, this sometimes worked, too.

Yet sometimes nothing would work, and Hera was sending clear signals she did not want to meet the oncoming dog or that she would behave aggressively. Then I would cue her to a U-turn (a technique advocated by Patricia McConnell in her book, Feisty Fido), chant my “Friend!” cue, and click and treat when possible. Often those things would do the trick and we would either avoid the meeting or the meeting would be brief and uneventful. Yet even now, there are occasions when Hera will lunge. She has come a very long way, but she is not, nor will she ever be (in my opinion), a “normal” dog.

About this same time, I saw the debut of the SENSE-ation Harness (see “Making Headway,” WDJ February 2005). I purchased one to replace her old-style walking harness. The leash clasps in front at the dog’s chest and this gives great control to the handler. This was another tool that really helped us.

By the time Hera was 6½, she could pass another dog on the sidewalk if I managed the situation. She no longer needed a 12-foot buffer zone; two feet would do. At that time, it was usually my preference to cross the street to avoid the stress it put on me and on Hera.

Pulled into a new career
If it sounds like I was immersed in dog training almost all the time, it’s because I was! The more I researched positive, effective dog training methods, the more interested I became in the field. I was excited when I learned about the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) and attended one of its annual educational conferences. I had gone to absorb information about positive training, but it turned out to be a significant step in my new career path!

As Hera and I learned and changed, I realized that I had a new passion, a new career. I wanted to be a pet dog trainer, and help others avoid going as far down the dismal road that we had traveled, and help them come back if they were already on it.

I found a positive trainer in my area, explained I was preparing myself to become a positive pet dog trainer, and asked to volunteer with her. I also added a part-time job to my day job, working at a doggie day care. There, I learned more about how “nice” dogs interact freely with each other and how to read their body language, intervene effectively, redirect behaviors and attention, and practice what I’d learned from Norwegian dog trainer Turid Rugaas’ tapes and booklet.

I joined Clicker Solutions, a Web site and e-mail list “dedicated to helping pet owners improve the relationship with their pets by teaching training and management techniques which are understandable and reinforcing to both human and animal.” On this and other lists that discussed positive training for aggressive dogs, I coined “Hera-the-WonderDog!” as Hera’s identifier, because I saw she truly was a wonder dog!

When Hera was seven years old, with the help of other wonderful positive trainers who also let me assist them, plus an abundance of workshops, seminars, conferences, journals, e-lists, books, etc., I started “My Dog, LLC,” my pet dog training business. Of course, for me, it had all started with my dog.

Presently present

Today, Hera is nine years old. She will never be the dog who sits ignored at my feet at a cafe, nor the dog ambling beside me on a walk, while I ignore her and chat with my friend. I am always watchful and managing and training. But now, sometimes, I take my plastic coffee mug on our neighborhood walks. (Yes, there have been a few times when I’ve dropped the coffee to manage a surprise situation!)

Outside, Hera is my focus. I glance around at trees, houses, and storefronts, but I also scan for other dogs, roller bladers, skateboarders, cats, squirrels, Canada geese, infants in arms/small dogs being carried, big trucks, or fast moving vehicles of any sort moving right at us. I watch her body language to know when she is stressed. She teaches me what concerns her, and I do my best to give her enough information to get through it or I manage the environment to reduce or remove the stressor.

The clicker is my main communicator. And treats. Even today, when we go to local parks, the waiting room at her vet’s, and pet supply stores -places frequented by people with their dogs – we train with clicker and treats. When we sit at a table outside my favorite coffee shop, I have my coffee, clicker, and several different treats at my fingertips. We enjoy the weather, watch the world go by, and train. Always, we train.

Much of the time now, Hera seems interested in meeting the other dog, so I orchestrate by ping-ponging her attention, zigzagging and blocking approaches, happy talk, cuing “friend!” and using clicks and treats as much as possible, as well as keeping first sniffs brief. I turn her away and come back, and end the meeting while all is still going well. Often, now, Hera ends the meeting on her own!

If I am in doubt as to Hera’s stress level, her ability to handle the situation, I get us out of the situation. I say, “Let’s GO!” and we turn and trot away. Click and treat for both of us! We don’t need to do that very often any more, but knowing it is there, our safety net, helps me feel more comfortable. And we practice a quick U-turn. I’ve taught it to her on the cue “Wow!” because I simply can’t sound panicked and stressed when I say “Wow!”

Hera now has doggie friends. I value each of them. We meet for walks. We make new friends carefully, with disclosure of Hera’s reactivity and how we manage our greeting rituals. Each new friend, each acquaintance she tolerates, is a major delight! Some dogs (more and more all the time), she simply meets and greets. I can’t say she does it “normally” because I believe that under the surface, the reactivity is still there. But now she has a much thicker surface, a greater buffer of resilience before her reactivity is triggered.

Take nothing for granted
Obviously, this training approach has become our lifestyle. With a reactive dog, you take nothing for granted. Building a solid base and watching the dog to evaluate and reevaluate when and how fast to progress is critical.

In November 2003, she received – and deserved! – her Canine Good Citizen certification, and in early 2004 she participated in a “clicker tricks” class and did very well.

I love this dog. I wish I could go back and change those first four years, but I can’t.

What I can do is use positive techniques with her for the rest of her life. I can and will keep learning to better help her at every stage.

I encourage her to use her lovely, bright, eager mind. We play games, she does backyard agility, and she does tricks. She visits folks in a local nursing home weekly. She holds a lovely long “sit” and has a pretty “down.” She greets people with a sit and a “high five” or a “wave,” as cued, and shakes paw when asked, all learned with the clicker and positive reinforcement – all learned with glee, not pain, not stress, not resistance.

Hera now makes up games and initiates play. She snuggles with me, lets me clean and care for her face wrinkles, and accepts brushing. She’s truly my wonderful, wonderful, wonder dog.

Editor’s note: Caryl-Rose’s husband Billy was diagnosed with cancer in mid-2004 and he passed away that September. With his support of and involvement with Hera’s behavior rehabilition, Billy was an important contributor to Hera’s success. She returns the favor by loving and supporting Caryl-Rose in Billy’s absence.

Caryl-Rose Pofcher is owner of My Dog, LLC, in Amherst, Massachusetts. This is her first contribution to WDJ.

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