A dog who doesn’t feel well usually appears depressed and uninterested in food and life around him. If your dog ignores food and water, call your veterinarian. Credit: Cavan Images | Getty Images
A dog who won’t eat is probably sick. If he has vomiting and diarrhea, a short fast may be all he needs to let his gastrointestinal tract settle before he starts eating again. A short fast of 12 hours may do the trick, provided he’s drinking water. If he’s not drinking water, call your veterinarian.
Consider offering small meals frequently. Some dogs will appreciate you offering spoonsful of food or holding up their bowl for them. Variety can be appealing.
Most sick dogs do best with a bland diet. Top choices include:
Cooked chicken breast with cooked rice. This is perhaps the most tempting food for dogs who don’t feel well. No butter, spices, or anything when making the chicken and rice.
Oatmeal works for some dogs. Cook his rolled oats with water and nothing else. Oatmeal has plenty of fiber, which can help with diarrhea, and lots of B vitamins.
Plain mashed potatoes. These are another favorite of sick dogs who aren’t eating well, but skip the butter, milk, and seasonings.
Smelly canned mackerel. This may do the trick, especially if the dog is having a respiratory issue and can’t smell his food.
Canned cat food. While you don’t want your dog on a steady diet of cat food, some small offerings are smelly and tasty. For short-term use, these are fine, but check with your veterinarian to be sure your dog can handle the high protein and fat content of many cat foods, especially if he has a history of pancreatitis.
Dog Sniffs and Walks Away
Very often a sick dog will walk over, sniff the food, and walk away. This could be from nausea, or he may not be able to smell well. Ask your veterinarian for medications if you think he is nauseous. Drooling and your dog’s facial expression are clues to nausea.
If he has a respiratory infection, keep your dog’s nose clean. Use warm compresses to loosen any crusts. Make his food savory by warming it carefully and/or adding a good smelling topping.
In the case of a respiratory infection, the bland foods listed above may need some smelly toppings. Low-sodium broth works well and will help with hydration. The juice from a can of tuna packed in water also adds plenty of aroma.
The most effective way to prevent odor is to clean up urine as soon as possible but there are still options for set-in stains and smells. Credit: Liudmila Chernetska | Getty Images
Your dog pees on the rug, you clean it up, and the stain remains. Worse, your dog keeps urinating in the same place, even after you apply recommended home remedies like white vinegar and baking soda. Still more bothersome is the smell that sometimes lingers even when the stain itself is no longer visible.
While vinegar and baking soda may mask urine odors for human noses (for a while), dogs have thousands more olfactory receptors than people do. Even if a treated stain initially smells fine to us, your dog can still find it — and dogs like to urinate where they or other dogs have urinated, so the cycle never stops.
Canine urine combines ammonia, bacteria, hormones, and uric acid. As it breaks down, urine’s ammonia becomes more concentrated and releases mercaptan, a putrid-smelling gas containing hydrogen, carbon, and sulfur. This is why it can be difficult to completely get dog urine smell out of carpet, upholstery, and even poorly sealed hardwood, concrete, or tile.
Where’s the Stain?
A blacklight is useful for finding pet urine stains that, while they may not be otherwise visible, can still stink. Credit: BackyardProduction | Getty Images
If you are having trouble tracking down the source of the dog urine smell in your house, shine a blacklight such as a Vansky UV Blacklight Pet Urine Detector or Escolite UV Blacklight Flashlight wherever you’ve noticed accidents, plus behind curtains, in dark corners, on or around the dog’s bed or crate, next to houseplants, and near entry doors.
Phosphorus and proteins in urine glow when exposed to blacklight’s wavelengths, so both old and new stains will be obvious along with previously treated stains that were insufficiently cleaned
Removing Dog Urine Step by Step
Whenever possible, treat the stain as soon as you notice it with a product such as an enzyme, mineral, or oxidizing cleaner. Fresh urine stains are easier to clean than those that have dried because they haven’t yet set into the carpet, floor surface, or upholstery fabric.
Read product labels carefully and check manufacturer websites for complete instructions and usage tips. Be sure the product is appropriate for use on your carpet, hardwood floor, tile floor, upholstery, deck, back yard, or other surface.
If the label recommends starting with a spot test, apply a small amount to an inconspicuous section following label directions, then check for discoloration or damage. If there’s a problem, use a different product.
Be sure you have enough product to completely cover the affected area because large or old stains may need more cleaner, take longer to treat, or need a second application.
Because urine can soak into carpet, its underlayers, and even subflooring, apply enough cleaner to penetrate as deeply as the urine did.
If recommended, blot the treated stain with absorbent towels to remove as much moisture as possible, then speed the area’s drying with open windows, fans, a wet vacuum, or carpet cleaner to prevent trapped moisture from causing mold or mildew.
How Enzyme Cleaners Destroy Urine
Enzymes are naturally occurring proteins that act as catalysts, speeding chemical reactions. Specific enzymes break down or “digest” the proteins, starches, and fats in urine stains so they can be wiped, rinsed, or vacuumed away.
Enzyme cleaners designed for pet use contain uricase, an enzyme that breaks uric acid into carbon dioxide and water, along with other enzymes that work on urine, vomit, fecal matter, stinky dog smells, and other organic stains and odors.
Product labels identify compatible surfaces, such as carpets, area rugs, hardwood floors, tile floors, upholstery, or outdoor locations. Many deodorizing products contain added fragrances, some of which can be intense or unpleasant. Consider starting with an unscented product or compare customer ratings while shopping.
Popular enzyme cleaners for canine urine stains and odor include:
Mineral-based deodorizers often list their ingredients as a “proprietary blend” or “biodegradable molecular complex” that breaks down urine, vomit, and fecal stains at the molecular level.
It’s impossible to know what they contain but that doesn’t matter to fans of mineral deodorizers because these products are designed to remove organic stains and odors on contact. Some formulas, like Pooph, deodorize waste-water treatment plants, landfills, recycling plants, farms, and hospitals. Some mineral-based products can be added to laundry; used to treat lawns, artificial turf, and decks; or are safe for direct application to your dog.
Oxidizing (oxy) cleaners are popular laundry products, and several pet stain removers rely on oxidizing hydrogen peroxide to treat canine urine and other stains. Oxidation breaks down and changes chemical compounds into odorless, inert substances. Most oxidizing pet stain removers can be used alone or in conjunction with other stain and odor products. See:
While enzyme, mineral, and oxidizing cleaners are the most commonly available, there are a few other products that also work for removing dog urine smell from carpet and other surfaces:
O.E Kennel Odor Eliminator contains a proprietary essential oil blend for indoor and outdoor applications at veterinary clinics, shelters, grooming salons, kennels, and pet homes.
Puppy strangles most often occur in dogs younger than six months old. If your puppy is showing symptoms, it’s time to take him to a veterinarian. Credit: Carolyn Ann Ryan | Getty Images
Puppy strangles—also known as canine juvenile cellulitis—is a rare condition in young puppies. Strangles primarily affects puppies between three weeks and six months of age. It is rarely seen in adult dogs.
Symptoms of Puppy Strangles
The first symptom of puppy strangles is sudden swelling of the face. The muzzle will appear swollen and the lips will feel thickened and warm. The skin around the eyes may become so swollen that a puppy cannot open his eyes. The ear pinnae (the floppy part of the ear) may also feel warm and swollen.
Raised bumps called pustules will develop on an affected puppy’s muzzle, lips, and ears within days of developing facial swelling. These pustules do not typically spread to other areas of the body, but they can rarely appear on a puppy’s paws or around the anus or vulva.
Many puppies with strangles will also feel tired and have a poor appetite. They may develop a fever. The pustules on their face may burst and then scab over. In rare cases, sores will develop in the skin over their swollen lymph nodes that rupture and drain pus. Some puppies may develop sore joints and either limp or walk with a stiff gait.
The lymph nodes under a puppy’s jaw will swell and be tender when touched. This is probably where the name “puppy strangles” came from. The swollen lymph nodes in a puppy with strangles look similar to those in horses that have strangles.
Causes and Diagnosis
The cause of strangles in horses is a bacteria called Streptococcus equi. However, the cause of strangles in puppies is not known. Puppy strangles is suspected to be an auto-immune disorder. This means that the puppy’s immune system is attacking the cells in the skin of the puppy’s face (and rarely other parts of the body).
There is no diagnostic test for puppy strangles—it is a diagnosis of exclusion. This means that other causes for your puppy’s symptoms need to be ruled out before starting treatment for strangles. Your veterinarian may recommend tests such as blood work, a skin scraping to look for mites, and a skin cytology of the pustules to look for bacteria.
Treating Puppy Strangles
If other causes of your puppy’s symptoms are eliminated, then your veterinarian may prescribe treatment for strangles. Treatment involves prescribing a steroid called prednisone to suppress your puppy’s overactive immune system. An antibiotic is often prescribed since puppies with strangles are susceptible to a secondary bacterial infection of their skin.
Puppies with strangles are often on prednisone for at least 4-6 weeks. The facial swelling typically resolves in the first several days of receiving prednisone. They start to feel more energetic and begin to eat better. It can take several weeks of therapy to resolve their skin pustules and swollen lymph nodes.
The dose of prednisone necessary to treat strangles will increase a puppy’s thirst and appetite. They will drink more water and will need to be let outside more often to urinate. They may have urinary accidents inside the home. They will act hungrier than usual and demand more food.
Most puppies with strangles make a complete recovery from their illness and do not have a recurrence of the disease.
This adorable Corgi pup seems to love his sock—until he eats it! Resist the urge to induce vomiting and call your veterinarian first. Credit: Oksana Shufrych | Getty Images
Recommended doses of how much peroxide it takes to make a dog throw up vary, but the standard is 1 teaspoon (5 ml) for 10 lbs of body weight. It helps to walk your dog around for a few minutes to sort of “stir” the peroxide around his stomach. Most dogs will vomit within about 10 minutes.
Making your dog vomit should not be taken lightly. Hydrogen peroxide is an irritant to your dog’s stomach lining. Do not give more than 2 doses with a maximum of 3 tablespoons for a large dog.
Should You Make Your Dog Vomit?
Before making your dog vomit, consider some things. First, do you truly need to make your dog vomit? And, second, is it safe to make your dog vomit?
Making your dog vomit after eating a sock might work, depending upon the size of the dog and the size of the sock itself. A better choice is to call your veterinarian first—or an emergency clinic—and get their advice.
If your dog eats chocolate, making your dog throw up may not be necessary. What to do if your dog eats chocolate depends on the type of chocolate the dog ate, how much he ate, and how big your dog is. Sometimes, you may just need to keep an eye on him and watch for symptoms like vomiting, diarrhea, increased thirst, panting, restlessness, excessive urination, and racing heart rate. In severe cases, you may see muscle tremors, seizures, and heart failure.
There are many good “chocolate calculators” that can give you an idea if the candy your dog ate is likely to be toxic. This will vary with the size of your dog and the type of chocolate. Overall, milk chocolate is safer than dark chocolate because milk chocolate has a lower amount of theobromine (the main alkaloid in the cacao bean), which is toxic dogs. Chocolate also contains caffeine, which is toxic to dogs as well. They cause similar symptoms, but the effects of theobromine last longer.
When to Not Induce Vomiting in Your Dog
Some substances do more damage if you make your dog throw them up, such as caustic items like drain cleaner or sharp items like broken glass. Some dogs have problems that make them susceptible to serious problems like aspiration pneumonia if they vomit. That includes brachycephalic breeds and dogs with laryngeal paralysis or megaesophagus.
Keep a fresh, unopened bottle of hydrogen peroxide 3% in your pet first-aid kit, but before using it put in a quick call to your veterinarian or one of the pet poison centers. The Pet Poison Helpline at 855-764-7661 or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435 both charge a fee (which is covered by some pet insurances), but they are worth the cost for expert advice. Both centers are open 24/7, just for emergencies like a 2 a.m. sock snack.
Bringing home a new dog is an exciting time and it can be made easier by being well prepared. Credit: Kate O’Connor
Even if you grew up in a family that had dogs, getting a dog of your own for the first time is a big step. From picking a vet to coming up with a training plan, there’s just so much to figure out! So, once you’ve decided to go for it, what do you need to know as a first time dog owner?
One of the most important things to understand as a first time dog owner is that by bringing a dog into the family, you are taking responsibility for a living being. Far too many dogs end up in rescues or shelters for being “difficult” or “unmanageable,” often in ways that could have been avoided with more knowledge, better training, and good exercise. You can save a lot of heartache by making—and sticking to—a good plan and by consulting with experts promptly when an issue arises that you aren’t sure how to deal with.
In addition to training and exercise, caring for a dog requires regular health care, grooming, a diet plan, and some basic equipment. You will also want to decide where the dog will eat, sleep, and play before she arrives.
First Time Dog Owner Checklist
Before bringing your new dog home, be sure to complete the following checklist:
Gather all available information about your future dog.
Set up the dog’s area with crate, bowls, bed or blanket, and toys.
Do a complete check of your house and yard.
Schedule a training class.
Stuff to Buy
While they may not be pretty to look at, stainless steel dog bowls are easy to clean and can stand up to a lot—including being carried around. Credit: Kate O’Connor
If you are a first time dog owner, chances are you won’t have a lot of dog equipment on hand. To get started, it’s a good idea to have the following before you bring your new dog home:
A collar or harness and leash: You will need a safe way to keep your dog with you in public. Never assume a puppy or dog will just follow along with you—a rock-solid recall takes time and effort to train and, even if you achieve it, there are plenty of places where leashes are required. A well-fitted flat collar or martingale and a soft nylon leash is my go-to. For a look at some of the top products we’ve found, see “The Best Dog-Walking Gear.”
Bowls for food and water: While it’s not fancy, stainless steel is the best way to go for dog bowls. It’s easy to clean, durable, and will not leach chemicals into the dog’s food or water. As discussed in “Safe Dog Food Bowls (and How to Keep Them That Way),” dog bowls should be cleaned regularly to avoid any buildup of harmful bacteria that can make the dog sick.
A selection of toys: Toys can be a great source of mental stimulation—along with giving the dog things she is allowed to chew on and play with—but finding the right ones can be tricky. What works for one dog may not work for another, even if they are the same age and breed. I recommend picking up a few to start with and getting to know your new dog before introducing more. If you have a puppy, you will need to consider puppy-appropriate toys. If you end up with an aggressive chewer, be aware that she may be able to rip even sturdy toys into potentially harmful, swallow-able bits in minutes. Be sure to take a toy away if your dog starts to pull it apart.
An appropriately sized dog crate: While some people prefer not to crate train their dogs, I’m a firm believer in teaching both puppies and older dogs to happily hang out in a crate. When properly used, a crate provides the dog with a place where she can feel safe and can’t get into any trouble while she’s getting used to her new home. Make sure you have a good understanding of how to crate train before attempting to crate your new dog—it’s important that she learns to associate the crate with good things. For more on the types of crates available and how to get the right size for your dog see “What is a Safe Dog Crate?”.
Other items that are less essential but still very helpful include dog beds, brushes, nail trimmers, training treats, a pooper-scooper and clean-up bags for handling dog waste, dog shampoo, baby gates to control access to the house, a dog car seat or seatbelt, and enzyme cleaner for any messes.
That said, don’t start your dog on her new food immediately. If at all possible, find out what food she has been eating and get a bag of that as well. Dogs can struggle to transition to a new diet so it’s important not to change foods too quickly—switching diets should take seven to ten days. For a guide on how to safely change foods, see “How to Transition Dog Food.”
Like humans, dogs can have allergies or sensitivities to certain ingredients in their food. In addition to obvious gastrointestinal trouble such as vomiting, diarrhea, or constipation, signs that your dog may need a different kind of food can include being overweight or underweight, a dull coat, flatulence, itchiness, hot spots, paw licking, chronic ear infections, listlessness, and hyperactivity. If your dog is experiencing any of those symptoms, talk to your veterinarian to see if he or she thinks it might be food related—especially since many of those indicators can also be symptoms of other ailments.
Healthcare
Speaking of veterinarians, it is important to choose a vet and schedule a checkup for the first week your dog will be with you. Even if the dog is exhibiting no outward indicators of health problems, the veterinarian will be able to do a more thorough check to help identify any hidden issues. Bring any medical records you have for the dog including proof of previous vaccinations. You may also be asked to bring a stool sample which will be used to check for parasites.
Along with verifying the dog’s health, the checkup will officially establish a relationship with the veterinary practice so you’re not scrambling to find someone to see your dog if she gets sick or injured. In addition, a well-check is a good time to ask any questions you might have about your dog’s health needs. Topics to cover with the vet may include:
Vaccination recommendations for your region
When you should spay or neuter your dog
Health concerns to watch out for given the dog’s age, breed, and the area where you are living
Flea/tick and heartworm prevention medications
Care plan/next recommended appointment
Training
Training is not just about getting your dog to perform certain behaviors on cue. It is about developing a relationship with your dog so that you can live a good life together. No matter how old your new dog is or where she comes from, you will need a training plan. Especially if you are a first-time dog owner, it is highly recommended that you sign up for a basic obedience class as soon as possible with a good, fear-free dog trainer. There’s no one better to help you learn to speak dog.
You will also need to consider how to go about training your dog not to relieve herself in the house. Even dogs who have previously been house-trained may have accidents in a new environment. Be prepared to deal with the mess—and the learning process—without getting mad at the dog. Housetraining a puppy is usually pretty straightforward, though it takes commitment and constant vigilance in the early stages (see “Puppy Potty Training: Simple, But Not Easy”). Older dogs who have never been housetrained can take more work, depending on why she may be having trouble with it (see “How to Housetrain Your Adult Dog”).
Socialization
While similar to training, socialization is more about getting your new dog used to her environment and the other living beings in it. It is one of the most important things you can do for your dog. While socialization works differently for puppies who are in the process of learning about the world and older dogs who have already developed opinions on it, the basics remain the same:
Keep experiences positive (food is great for helping this along!).
Do not force or lure your dog into a situation she doesn’t want to be in. Give her time and support to figure it out.
Be calm and positive. Dogs can be very good at picking up on what humans are feeling. If you are nervous or uncomfortable, take a break until you are in a better place.
Start small. A two-minute good experience is much more effective than twenty minutes of practice that ends with something not as great happening.
Don’t be afraid to call it quits for the day. Sometimes it’s best to take a break, go do something fun, and try another day.
Get help. If you aren’t sure what to do or don’t seem to be making progress, don’t be afraid to go to a trainer, behaviorist, or veterinarian for help and advice.
There is one place where you need to be prepared to work on socialization right away. If you have children or other pets, have a plan for making introducing everyone a positive experience. Make sure any kids understand that they will need to go slowly and be gentle with the new dog, no matter how excited they may be. Supervise play closely and make sure the dog can get away from the children—and that they respect her decision to do so—if she feels the need for some quiet time. It is also helpful to engage children in the training process.
When it comes to introducing your new dog to other pets, the rules are similar. Give both pets a safe space to be away from each other, create positive associations and experiences, and don’t rush. For a detailed look at pet introductions, see “How to Introduce a Cat to a Dog.”
Exercise
As a first-time dog owner, it is essential to understand that dogs need daily exercise. For many, a quick walk or meandering around a fenced in yard just isn’t enough. Age, breed, and individual preference all play a part in how much exercise a dog needs with some working breeds (and crossbreeds) needing up to two hours of exercise a day. Before you get a dog, be sure you have the time—or can hire someone—to exercise her.
Along with the fitness-related health benefits, good exercise helps promote good behavior in dogs. An under-exercised dog tends to get bored and frustrated. This often leads her to try to find ways to entertain herself such as chewing on or shredding things, barking at anything interesting passing by the window, and pestering you non-stop.
Grooming
While specific grooming needs are dependent on the dog’s coat type, even short-haired dogs must be groomed. Many grooming tasks can be performed at home with a little research (and practice), but you may want to visit a professional groomer for some of them. To keep a dog healthy, grooming tasks will include:
Brushing: Brushing is good for any coat type but dogs with thick or long hair will need regular—sometimes daily—attention to keep clean and free of mats. Matted hair can pull painfully on the skin and lead to skin problems if left unaddressed.
Toenail Trims: On average, dogs require nail trims on a monthly basis. If a dog’s toenails get too long, they can cause difficulty walking or even curl around and grow painfully into the dog’s paw pads.
Dental Care: Just like with humans, it is recommended that dogs get their teeth brushed daily to help prevent tooth loss and disease. For more information canine dental care, along with how to choose the right toothbrushes and toothpaste for your dog, see “How Often Should You Brush Your Dog’s Teeth?”.
Haircuts: Some dogs do better with regular haircuts while others should never be shaved. Consult with a professional groomer and see “Should You Shave a Dog?” to determine what is best for your dog.
Baths: How often you will need to bathe your dog is going to depend a lot on her coat and environment. If you have a soft-coated dog who spends a lot of time digging in the muddy backyard, she’s going to need more baths than a wire-coated dog who mostly walks on sidewalks. For more information on how and when to bathe your dog see “Tips and Techniques for Bathing your Dog.”
How to Take Care of a Dog in the House
Finally, there are a lot of things around the typical household that can cause problems for our dogs. Kids’ toys and small knick-knacks can be choking hazards. Certain plants, cleaning products, and common household chemicals can be poisonous. You’ll need to do some research and conduct a thorough sweep of the house and yard before bringing your new dog home. If a dog can put something in her mouth, assume she will. When I’m puppy-proofing a space, I often sit on the floor to see what catches my eye from dog eye-level.
The pharmacist made a typo on the last name of this prescription, but the dog’s first name is spelled correctly.
Shirley Zindler is the president and founder of the Dogwood Animal Rescue Project, a foster-based, nonprofit animal rescue organization based in Sonoma County, California. Zindler started Dogwood after retiring from working as an animal control officer for the county animal control department for many years and has built a large network of dedicated volunteers who foster animals and fundraisers who support the rescue work.
Through her Facebook page, Zindler as frequently shares information about her husband Paul and grown children as she recounts recent experiences in animal control and her current adventures in rescue through her Facebook page. So I wasn’t sure what sort of post I was reading when I saw this photo and story:
“Well, here we are, Paul and I, at our age. After 40 years together and not much has changed. We’re still crazy, passionately in love. And he’s still willing to do anything to make me happy, including picking up a prescription for Viagra.
“For the dog!
“Who knew that a new treatment for megaesophagus in dogs (our foster boy Ryder) includes Viagra?”
Actually, we knew that sildenafil, the generic name of the drug also known as Viagra, Revatio, Aphrodil, Vizarsin, and Granpidam, was a treatment for megaesophagus, a condition that causes dogs to regurgitate their food shortly after (or while) eating. It was a promising new treatment when veterinarian Catherine Ashe wrote this article for WDJ about the condition, but the drug is proving to work so well for this life-threatening condition, that it’s a standard part of the treatment today.
But I love all of Zindler’s stories, which are just as likely to make you laugh out loud as make you cry. She’s got some doozies from her many years in the field, and she’s shared many of them in two books that she published, mostly as a fundraiser for the rescue group she founded.
Fleas are easily picked up on walks, and it’s strongly believed there’s a connection between fleas and the bacteria Bartonella. Credit: Kobkik | Getty Images
Bartonella may make you think of cat-scratch fever, but it is being recognized as the cause of a potentially serious illness in dogs and people. Bartonella is a bacteria spread by fleas, although it is widely believed—but not definitively proven—that a dog also may contract bartonellosis from a tick or cat scratch or bite.
What’s worrisome is that, in cats, this disease is mostly an asymptomatic or transient problem until it is shared with a person or a dog. In both people and dogs, bartonellosis often shows up with cardiac signs. Endocarditis of the aortic heart valve with large lesions can lead to arrhythmias and inefficient cardiac performance. Lymph nodes may blow up and become inflamed. Nasal cavities may be involved, and you might notice nosebleeds. Researchers from North Carolina State believe some joint problems and neurologic symptoms such as weakness may also be attributable to bartonellosis.
Serology is not always accurate, and cultures take time. These “stealth” bacteria hide in blood cells and many other cells and are not detectable on smears. The bacteria may remain in your dog’s body, not causing any problems until years later when your dog’s immune system is compromised for some reason.
Treating Bartonella in Dogs
Treatment is done to reduce the bacterial load, but most researchers say it will not eliminate the infection. At this time, researchers recommend only treating dogs with clinical signs of bartonellosis. Treatment involves antibiotics such as doxycycline, amoxicillin, enrofloxacin, or rifampin. These drugs must be given for a month or six weeks.
Panting is how your dog keeps his body from overheating. A dog with a very long, wide tongue like this one is too warm. A stressed dog may or may not have a long, wide tongue but will show other signs of stress, like tail down, tense posture, ears slightly back.
Dogs also pant when they are stressed. This could be due to a loud noise, being in a place that your dog doesn’t like, or general anxiety. Other signs that your dog is distressed include tense face and posture, ears turned back and the whites of the eyes showing, and carrying her tail low and close to her body. She may also whine and pace or show destructive behaviors.
More concerning is the dog who is panting because she is having trouble breathing. Senior dogs can develop laryngeal paralysis, where the vocal folds in the throat are unable to move properly and can block the airway. These dogs frequently pant as a means of forcing air through. Other causes of difficulty breathing include respiratory infections, pneumonia, cancer in the lungs, and heart failure.
Other signs that your dog isn’t getting enough air include:
Pale, bluish, or purple tongue and gums
Stretching the head and neck out straight from the body
Collapse, especially during exercise
Abdomen moving in and out dramatically as the dog breathes
My Dog Keeps Panting and Won’t Settle at Night
We get it: A dog endlessly pacing and panting at night is annoying at best. It can prevent you from sleeping, which is a problem.
Dog May Need to Go Out
Not wanting to settle may mean that your dog needs to go outside, especially if she is a young puppy or a senior dog. These guys don’t have quite the bladder capacity of adult dogs in their prime. If your dog tends to pee only a small amount at a time, walk her long enough that she can completely empty her bladder before coming back inside.
Urinary tract infections and gastrointestinal upset that leads to diarrhea may cause your dog to need more frequent bathroom breaks. This discomfort can also lead to panting because your dog is stressed. Some medications, such as prednisone, can also make your dog urinate larger amounts and more often.
If your dog settles after a quick bathroom break, nothing to worry about. If these extra trips outside become a frequent issue, however, it is time for a vet visit.
Stress
Dogs may pace and pant at night if they are stressed. Possible triggers could be an alarm sounding somewhere in the house, moving to a new home, adding a new family member, fireworks, or storms.
If you can identify something that is stressing your dog, try to eliminate the cause or dampen its sound. You can also make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise before bedtime so that she is tired and more likely to go to sleep.
If your dog has more generalized anxiety that shows up during the day or just doesn’t resolve, she may need anti-anxiety medications from your vet or a veterinary behaviorist.
Pain
Pain can cause dogs to pant and pace. If your dog is hurting, she will have trouble getting comfortable, and may keep moving in an effort to find a better spot to rest. Pain also causes stress, resulting in the panting.
If you suspect your dog is in pain, schedule a veterinary exam to find out where your dog hurts and why so she can be treated appropriately.
Cognitive Dysfunction
Just like humans, dog brains can get a little bit addled as they age. Doggy dementia is called canine cognitive dysfunction, or CCD. Classic signs of this disorder are senior dogs wandering around, especially at night, and then sleeping at weird times of day. Your dog may also seem disoriented or have other personality changes.
Thankfully, there is a treatment for canine cognitive dysfunction. The medication selegiline (brand name Anipryl) is helpful for many dogs, and can restore your dog to her normal personality and habits. Enforcing a normal sleep schedule by keeping your dog active during the day can also help.
Sanitary diapers, like the washable pair shown in this picture, can be a big help when your dog is in heat. Credit: Kate O’Connor
There is no easy way to figure out when your young dog will go into heat for the first time and, other than surgical intervention ahead of time, there is no way to stop it from happening. Identifying what is typical for dogs of a similar breed and size can narrow down the timeline, but it will still only be an approximation. Any time between about 6 months and a year and a half is considered normal, though some smaller dogs may start as young as 4 months and some large breeds as old as 2 years.
If you haven’t been through a heat cycle before with a dog, it will help to learn what it looks like so you can recognize it when it happens. If in doubt, don’t be afraid to call your veterinarian for confirmation—a potentially silly question or the expense of an office visit is far better (and cheaper) than an unplanned pregnancy.
Signs your dog is in heat can include:
bloody discharge from her vulva
enlarged vulva
licking genital area
behavioral changes
change in tail posture
possible changes in mood, including crankiness
Why Not Have a Litter?
Puppies are born with their eyes and ears closed. They grow up fast but require a lot of care in order to thrive. Credit: Kate O’Connor
Given that I come from a family that has bred Airedales for decades, I understand the appeal of raising puppies. Not only are they adorable little bundles of potential, there’s something amazing about meeting the sons and daughters of a dog who is a beloved member of the family. The work it has taken to preserve and improve this very special line of dogs has been monumental—full of joy and loss, sleepless nights, and any number of difficult decisions.
That is, perhaps, why it almost always makes me cringe when I hear someone say, “I love my dog. I’m thinking of breeding her.” Most people, even well-intentioned ones, just aren’t prepared to make informed breeding decisions and raise puppies well. And it is the dogs who suffer for it.
As emotionally difficult as it can be for the humans involved, having a great personality does not make a dog a good breeding prospect. Alongside temperament, it’s important to thoroughly test and assess the health and abilities both parents. Ask yourself what you are trying to preserve and what it could look like if the puppies inherit only the least desirable traits—including any health issues—from the parents’ genetic lines.
Then there are the puppies themselves who require significant time, money, and care. Even if there are no expensive medical complications (like needing an emergency C-section), the best outcomes require understanding the canine reproductive process, good pre- and post-natal veterinary care, maintaining a safe and healthy environment for the mother and puppies, and knowledge of early development and training. At the risk of sounding harsh, if you don’t know how to properly cut an umbilical cord or glove up and assist if a puppy gets caught in the birth canal, don’t breed your dog. Yes, the majority of dogs can give birth by themselves, but your job as your dog’s caretaker—and the one who allowed her to get pregnant—is to be prepared if she and her puppies need help.
Finally, if you are thinking about breeding your dog, ask yourself if you are able and willing to provide a home for her puppies for the rest of their lives. I firmly believe that if we humans—accidentally or on purpose—bring a dog into this world, then we need to ensure he or she always has a safe place to go. Even following best practices for finding good placements for any puppies you’re not keeping, sometimes it doesn’t work out. It’s then up to you to bring the dog home, no matter how many years it has been.
What to Do When Your Dog is in Heat
Once a dog’s heat cycle starts, there are several things you will need to do. First, keep an eye out for anything unusual. While bloody or straw-colored discharge is normal, it should not be thick or mucousy. A discharge that is mostly mucous can be a symptom of a uterine infection (pyometra). This condition can be life threatening and requires immediate veterinary attention.
You will also need a plan for how to keep your dog away from any intact male dogs. Avoid spots where dogs might interact off leash such as dog parks or doggy daycare. Even if you have a fenced yard, she should not be left alone outside for any length of time. A fence—no matter how good—won’t keep a determined suitor out.
In addition, you will want some supplies on hand to handle the discharge. There is no way to stop a dog from bleeding when she is in heat, but there are some tricks to managing the potential mess. Most dogs will keep themselves clean, but if you have a long-haired or thick-coated dog, she may need some help. If the fur on her back legs or around her vulva is getting dirty, you can use a soft cloth dampened with warm water to clean her up. Be gentle—her vulva will be more sensitive than usual.
The amount of discharge during a heat varies from dog to dog and cycle to cycle. If it is on the heavier side, sanitary diapers can be used to keep the discharge from getting on floors and furniture. Dog diapers come in two varieties: washable and disposable.
In my experience, washable diapers often fit better but usually require a disposable pad to catch any leaks. Disposable diapers are great at absorbing discharge but can be a choking/swallowing hazard if your dog decides to remove hers and chew it up. Whichever you choose, be sure to change it regularly—every three to four hours—to avoid sores and infections.
For lighter discharge, you can often leave the diaper off in favor of covering your dog’s bed and usual hang-out spots with an old towel or potty pad. Again, be sure to change them out when they get dirty.
As discussed in “How to Comfort a Dog in Heat,” changes in hormone levels during the heat cycle can cause symptoms including clinginess, grouchiness, decreased appetite, and lethargy. You can help your dog by providing comfort, support, and in-home enrichment to keep her engaged when she can’t go out as much.
While spaying your dog is the best way to prevent pregnancy, it is generally not recommended when the dog is in heat. Most veterinarians will advise waiting to perform the surgery until at least three weeks after her cycle has ended to lower the risk of complications.
More On Heat Cycles
There are a few things it’s important to know when it comes to canine heat cycles:
If your dog is in heat, assume she can get pregnant.
Most unspayed female dogs have one to two cycles a year.
Heat cycles usually run two to three weeks but can last longer.
While bloody discharge and an enlarged vulva are typical, a dog can cycle (and get pregnant) without showing any external signs—called a “silent” heat.
If you notice your dog persistently licking the same area, consult with your veterinarian to try to find and treat the primary cause before it develops into an acral lick dermatitis or granuloma. Credit: Olaser | Getty Images
Acral lick dermatitis is easy to spot. For one thing, you will notice your dog constantly licking his body over and over in the same spot. Over time, that area will become bald with raised skin that may ulcerate or bleed. The hair around the bald spot is often stained a dark reddish-brown from your dog’s saliva.
What Causes Acral Lick Granuloma in Dogs?
Acral lick dermatitis is a secondary problem that usually starts because of another health problem. The primary health condition causes pain, irritation, or itchiness, which causes the dog to lick, and over time the licking causes more irritation which makes the dog lick even more. Sometimes we’re not sure why the dog is licking, but we do know it can be difficult to break this cycle.
The first thing your veterinarian will do is try to figure out why your dog is fixating on a specific spot and licking that area so much. Underlying conditions that can lead to acral lick dermatitis include:
Your dog may also have multiple things going on; for example, skin inflammation from allergies often leads to secondary bacterial infections.
Treating Acral Lick Dermatitis
The treatment for your dog’s acral lick granuloma will depend on his unique case. The three primary prongs of treatment are preventing further licking, treating any existing infection, and addressing the underlying cause.
Breaking the lick cycle is critical. Your dog may need to wear a cone or have a light bandage to prevent him from continuing to lick the area and make it worse. Bitter sprays may help too.
Medications that your dog may receive include antibiotics, pain medications, mite and flea treatments, or anti-anxiety drugs depending on your dog’s case. Veterinarians often use a combination of topical meds that you can apply directly to the sore and systemic medications that your dog takes by mouth. Acupuncture can be helpful.
In some cases, your veterinarian may recommend surgery to remove the damaged skin, close the wound, and give your dog a fresh start.
Patience Is Key
Treating acral lick dermatitis takes time and persistence. It can take weeks or months for the skin to heal and hair to grow back. Licking the same spot also can become a habit for the dog even after the initial cause is addressed. Be relentless about preventing your dog from continuing to lick.
With time, persistence, and some trial and error, you and your veterinarian will find the ideal treatment plan for your dog and break the itch-lick cycle.
: Start training your dog to shake by shaping the exercise and using yummy treats. Before long, your dog will willingly shake paws with anyone! Credit: Thai Liang Lim | Getty Images
No matter what you want to teach your dog at home, the first thing to figure out is what your dog wants for a reward. Most dogs will do anything for a yummy snack.
Dog training for beginners: If your dog is not food-motivated, your first job is to figure out what motivates and excites him. Maybe it’s a favorite toy he likes to have tossed or tugged with. It might be as simple as excited accolades from you. You must figure this out before trying to teach anything. There must be something in it for them.
Don't Forget to Have Fun!
It’s important to ensure the dog remains engaged and happy and that sessions end on a good note (quit sooner, not later). Practice every day, even if the session is shorter.
Never:
-Get impatient, angry, or frustrated
-Force your dog’s behavior
-Reward your dog for the wrong behavior
-Introduce too many tricks at once
Always:
-Keep sessions short; 10 minutes or less
-Use rewards that are high value to the dog
-Work in a quiet, distraction-free environment
-Be consistent in what you ask and what you reward
Once you’ve got that figured out, dog training at home starts with teaching the trick a little bit at a time, which is called “shaping.”
Shape the Trick
When teaching dogs tricks, shape the behavior, rather than demand, bribe, force, manipulate, or coax. Shaping behaviors requires patience and plenty of time allotted for your first few sessions. When behaviors are shaped and not forced the behavior becomes your dog’s choice. It makes your dog your partner or teammate in a game, not a servant. Shaping creates an interested, engaged, thinking, interactive, and motivated dog.
So how do you shape a behavior? Basically, you wait until the dog offers on his own something (anything!) resembling what you’re after, and you pay that.
Teaching your dog to shake is a good example of how to shape a behavior. Start by sitting with your dog sitting facing you. Have a treat hidden in your hand. Hold your closed hand toward your dog, palm up. Don’t say anything. Many dogs will naturally paw at the hand to try to get the cookie. If/when he touches your hand with his paw say, “Yes!” and give him the cookie.
Note: Take it off your palm with your other hand and give it to him with your other hand. Don’t just open your “shaking” hand and let him eat it.
Repeat this step until you’re confident he understands what he needs to do to get paid. Then wait a few seconds before rewarding while he keeps his paw on your hand. Gradually increase length of time with paw on your hand before rewarding. Once he fully understands he must keep his paw on your hand (as opposed to pawing or scratching at you) to get paid, you can add the word. To do this, start your regular routine and as he starts bringing his paw toward your hand simply say, “Shake.” This will attach a verbal cue to the desired behavior. Don’t forget to say “yes” and reward as usual for each advancement.
Eventually, you can turn your hand sideways if you prefer, like you would to shake a human’s hand. Once you’ve shaped that added behavior, you can add the up and down motion of a handshake.
Dogs may lay on our feet to ensure you we can’t leave the room without them noticing or simply to show affection. Credit: Anita Kot | Getty Images
Dogs show signs of affection in many ways, including laying their head on your feet. Other ways experts believe dogs show affection include:
Making eye contact with “soft” eyes
Happy greetings with loose, relaxed posture
Wagging tail
Slow blink
Seeking physical contact
Licking
Bringing you toys
Leaning against you
Following you around
Why Do Dogs Lay Their Head on Your Feet?
We think that dogs may lay their head on our feet as a way to show they love us by being close. Even dogs who don’t care for full-body cuddles on the couch or bed may enjoy being curled up at your feet, just barely touching. Others may just want to gaze in our eyes.
Some dogs may also use this technique to get our attention. “Hey human, you’ve been on the computer a long time—don’t forget you have a dog!” Of course, canine facial expressions can tell us a lot, too.
I think some of my personal dogs lay their head on my feet to be sure they will know if I get up and leave. My pack follows me from room to room, and napping on my feet ensures that I can’t “escape” without them knowing!
While we won’t know for sure why dogs lay on our feet until they can tell us themselves, a sign of affection feels right. After all, dogs use body language as a way to communicate and, if we feel warm and fuzzy when our dogs are close, why wouldn’t they feel the same?
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
