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Conventional and Holistic Veterinarians Working Together

Every day the already dazzling array of options for caring for your dog grows even more. There are myriad modalities in the realm of holistic care, including complementary and alternative options, as well as conventional veterinary medicine, with its low- and high-tech diagnostic and treatment procedures. Which way do you go when your dog has a health concern?

Choosing caregivers

Dog Health Care

There are a number of ways to integrate holistic and conventional care for your dog. Some veterinarians practice “integrative medicine,” using both holistic modalities and conventional care, in a fully equipped clinic. This situation is the easiest to manage because you are only working with one practitioner. “Unfortunately, some practitioners with [full] clinics are sometimes more conventional that you would hope,” says holistic veterinarian Eugene Aversa, DVM, of Santa Fe, New Mexico.

There are an increasing number of veterinary practices that include vets who practice conventional veterinary medicine and some who use holistic therapies. While you may work directly with two or more vets, these integrated clinics simplify sharing information between the vets. They facilitate active involvement of all parties in the care of your dog.

Unfortunately, these clinics tend to be the exception and not the rule. If you aren’t lucky enough to live close to such a clinic, it’s best to form your own team of veterinarians who are willing to work together. If you are already working with a veterinarian, and you have a strong relationship, open a dialogue with him or her about bringing another practitioner into the mix.

“The thing to do is find a [conventional] veterinarian who’s open minded to holistic and complementary approaches – more and more are,” says Allen Schoen, DVM, who practices integrative holistic animal health care in Sherman, Connecticut. Keep in mind that it is just as important that your holistic veterinarian is open to conventional diagnostic procedures and treatments if you decide to pursue them.

Regardless of whether your primary veterinarian is holistically oriented or very conventional, know his or her limitations regarding care for your dog. What are the clinic hours – is there any availability for emergencies? Does your veterinarian have surgery facilities? What about access to labs and other diagnostic procedures?

How some choose
For Janine Adams, of St. Louis, Missouri, her first call is almost always to holistic veterinarian, Dr. W. Konrad Kruesi. “Unless it’s a life-threatening emergency, I always try to contact Dr. Kruesi before I do anything,” she says. A holistic practitioner based in North Clarendon, Vermont, Dr. Kruesi provides Adams with critical initial guidance on what diagnostic tests to ask for, what treatments to consider immediately, and which to forego.

Adams second call is to her local, conventional veterinarian, Dr. Patrick Tate. He acts as the eyes, ears, nose, and hands for Dr. Kruesi, and runs blood work and any other diagnostic tests that might be necessary. Adams says, “I’m fortunate that both of my vets are very open and willing to work with each other within these parameters.”

After a thorough exam and necessary diagnostic tests at Dr. Tate’s clinic, Adams shares all of the results with Dr. Kruesi. He then formulates the holistically oriented treatment.

Lauren McCall, of Portland, Oregon, usually opts for a trip to her conventional veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment recommendations. Then, depending on the situation, may choose to go with the allopathic recommendations or consult a holistic veterinarian.

“While I generally think holistically, I’m not opposed to a short, sharp shock [with medication] to get the situation under control, then treat the issue holistically,” explains McCall.

When her Bernese Mountain Dog, Byron, was recently diagnosed with cancer, this was the exact approach McCall used. First she took Byron to her conventional veterinarian, who used standard conventional methods for diagnosing the tumor. Then she consulted with a veterinary oncologist to determine the optimal treatment plan for Byron. The tumor was surgically removed, and Byron’s diet was changed and supplemented. However, McCall opted not to pursue further conventional treatments.

“The oncologist wasn’t sure that chemotherapy would be of much benefit to Byron, and it would likely be very difficult for him physically and emotionally. We decided to consult with a holistic veterinarian and pursue an alternate treatment in an attempt to prevent the recurrence of the cancer,” she explains. So far, six months after diagnosis, he remains cancer-free.

In Connecticut, Dr. Schoen focuses on complementary and alternative modalities, but he requires that all of his clients also have a conventional primary care veterinarian. “Whenever possible, I like to have a ‘Western’ diagnosis for a client,” says Schoen. With that, he can then help the client explore the options of conventional versus complementary treatments, including the risks and benefits of each.

Dr. Schoen believes it is crucial to remain unattached to any particular modality or therapy, as he quips, “Don’t let your dogma kill my karma.” Instead, he always asks himself, what’s best to help this animal?

New Mexico’s Dr. Aversa also looks for a conventional diagnosis with a patient, to determine the best course of treatment in any particular situation. “Most of the time it’s pretty clear which road to take,” he explains. Just because you get a Western diagnosis, he says, doesn’t mean you have to use the conventional treatment.

Dr. Aversa may opt for a completely holistic regime, including homeopathy, nutrition, and chiropractic care, or, if appropriate, focus more on a conventional treatment, although he nearly always adds in some level of holistic therapy as support.

Chronic health conditions
When Janine Adams’ late Poodle, Kramer, developed several autoimmune conditions, her conventional veterinarian was running out of options and recommended that she seek advice from a holistic practitioner. After some exploration, she began working with Dr. Kruesi.

Many dog owners converted to holistic care after dealing with chronic health conditions, for which their conventional medical practitioners had no answers. Or, side effects from the allopathic treatments were too detrimental.

For instance, in the case of allergies, Dr. Schoen is likely to try natural approaches first, such as diet changes and supplementation, rather than the conventional allergy treatments including steroids and antihistamines. “Although, each animal is different and each client is different,” he says.

While many chronic health conditions can be successfully treated with holistic or alternative care, Dr. Aversa says, “there are plenty of instances where chronic disease or circumstances require conventional care.”

This is the case with my dogs. Both have Addison’s disease, an autoimmune condition that destroys the adrenal gland, rendering it unable to produce certain hormones. Booker requires conventional medication, as well as regular blood tests, to stay alive. At the same time, he’s received acupuncture, chiropractic adjustments, herbs, nutritional supplements, homeopathic remedies, and other holistic treatments over the years to improve his health.

By combining conventional and holistic approaches, Booker’s medications have been reduced to less than one-third the normal dose for a dog his size. And he’s a happier, healthier dog than if he were just receiving treatments from one side or the other.

Acute crises
“In a true emergency, you shouldn’t be putzing around with remedies at home,” says Dr. Aversa. It’s better to have a veterinarian, holistic or conventional, look at the animal, to ensure you aren’t dealing with a life-threatening condition.

When Adams’ dog, Kramer, developed bloat she rushed him to the emergency clinic. At the clinic, they took X-rays and were successful in decompressing his stomach. He was kept under observation for the night, and released the next day.

In the morning, Adams consulted with Dr. Kruesi. He provided valuable advice to aid Kramer in a swift recovery, and also helped Adams and her husband decide against prophylactic gastropexy surgery (stomach tacking) to prevent torsion in the event of a future bloat episode.

Communication
Some people may be reluctant to tell their conventional veterinarian that they want to (or are already) consulting with a holistic veterinarian. And the opposite may be true as well, for those using a holistic practition-er who are interested in pursuing a conventional Western diagnosis or treatment protocol.

“It can be hard to stand up to an authority figure, but we are our animals’ advocates,” explains Adams. “Besides, when you are up front with your conventional veterinarian about how you prefer to treat your animals, you have the opportunity to inform and educate him or her – helping him or her understand another way of thinking.”

When Adams moved back to St. Louis after a four year absence, she had completely changed the way she cared for her dogs. She contacted her former veterinarian, Dr. Tate, and explained to him that she now considered holistic veterinarian Dr. Kruesi to be the “primary” veterinarian for her dogs, though she needed a local veterinarian in St. Louis to provide physical exams and lab tests and any other services her dogs may need. Not only did Dr. Tate accept the parameters, he has referred clients to Dr. Kruesi. Not all doctors would be so accepting and accommodating.

The most important thing to remember is be informed in advance. This way you can make the best decision possible at the time. Know you have options – and, know your options!

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Holistic Dog Care and Holistic Checkups for Athletic Dogs”

Letters 10/04: Additional Resources

0

Thanks so much for “Fine Tuning” in your September issue. As usual, you covered topics I’m coping with every day. My one-year-old Golden, Midas, might as well be “Hannah” in disguise: he gets aroused by exactly the same things. Now I don’t feel so bad, knowing even Editor Nancy Kerns needed Pat Miller’s tips!

I urgently want to warn readers, though, about the CoQ10 you recommend in the article in the same issue about eye health (“Seeing Is Believing”). My mixed breed, who usually seems to have an iron stomach, got extremely nauseated from CoQ10. Unfortunately, that’s what I remembered that when I tried it myself; I’d gotten severe gas pains.

I looked online (and not at sites that sell the supplement) and in my books, but found sources that recommend it almost never give side effects – your publication included. I’d like them given, if known, for every herb suggested, even if they’re only known for humans. I keep thinking we could’ve gone to the vet and even gotten treated for a problem that’s really a side effect.

Thank you for your inspiring, reassuring articles; my dogs’ lives are much improved as I slowly smarten up. I’m sure I’m learning the things they’ve been wanting to tell me all along!

-Joan Carney
Harpswell, ME

 

Joan, thanks so much for your letter. You’ve raised an excellent point about the potential side effects of supplements, herbs, and other complementary remedies. We’ll make sure we do a better job of including this important information in all of our articles.

A look at my reference books does indeed confirm that some people have reported that CoQ10 can cause headache, heartburn, fatigue, and increased involuntary movements at high doses. Mild diarrhea and skin reactions have also been reported.

———-

I love how you guys talk about raw diet all the time! Kudos, and isn’t it great that more people are becoming aware of actually paying attention to the health of their dogs and cats. BUT! Although I know you weren’t comprehensive in your listings due to probably space constraints, you left off two important big sources for the raw world.

One is the book Switching to Raw by Sue Johnson. I sell raw diets in my store, and I sell books to help educate the people who buy the raw diet options. Switching to Raw is one of our best sellers. It is clear, concise, simple, easy to follow, and formatted in a way that makes a new person really feel comfortable sitting down and reading it. It is one of the most highly recommended books by people on the Internet.

The other important omission is the prepared raw diet called Bravo Raw Diet. Of all the diets to miss! This one is one of the very best. Not only do they pay close and strict attention to quality but they are one of the few companies that offers certified organic options for people like myself who chose by quality, not cost. They keep the costs as reasonable as they can by offering bulk purchase prices. They offer complete raw frozen diets as well as the constituent parts, just like the other sources you listed.

-Judy Asarkof
www.especiallyforpets.com

 

We had more people write in and mention Switching to Raw than I could count. The book is available from its author, Susan Johnson, at www.switchingtoraw.com or by sending $13.95 plus $1.50 shipping/handling per book to Birchrun Basics, PO Box 215, Lavon, TX 75166. Bravo Raw Diet can be purchased by calling (866) 922-9222 or see www.bravorawdiet.com.

———-

First of all, I want to tell you how much I enjoy WDJ, which I have been subscribing to for several years now. Not wanting to miss anything, I even bought all the back issues, and I’m happy I did! The “ Mixing It Up” article (July 2004) was a good way of addressing those of us who want to feed a raw diet to our dogs, but like the convenience of a product that is easy to use.

Unfortunately, you omitted what I feel is one of the best products of this type, the Wendy Volhard NDF (Natural Diet Foundation ) available from PHD Products. As you mentioned in your “Choosing a Raw Food Guru” article (June 2001), NDF (which Volhard developed in recent years) is a dehydrated version of the original Volhard Natural Diet, which has been around for more than 30 years.

My 10-year-old Golden Retriever, Bda Ch OTCh Can OTCh Newcoast’s Wynton of Bermuda Am CDX, has been fed exclusively on this diet for many years after a kibble and raw diet.

As a supposedly geriatric dog at his age, Wynton is still successfully competing at a high level in obedience and just started doing agility! People cannot believe he is 10 years old. He certainly acts like a dog many years younger and still has a great deal of vitality. Aside from rabies, which is required for travel, he hasn’t been vaccinated in many years, and his blood work is still very good.

I attribute this state of health directly to the Volhard N DF diet and Wendy’s holistic approach to dog care. While it is very sad to see so many of our wonderful Golden breed dying young, I’m still looking forward to several more quality years together with my beloved companion!

For those readers interested, information about the NDF diet can be found at www.phdproducts.com (800-PHD-1502) or www.volhard.com.

-Carl Shechtman
Pembroke, Bermuda

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  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

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Evaluating Your Local Animal Shelter

One day in November some 17 years ago, my husband and I (both humane officers in California at the time) were conducting undercover surveillance of cockfighters in San Jose, when a scruffy little Terrier mix ran across a busy road in front of our car. Without a word, Paul pulled the car over to the curb and I hopped out to rescue the youngster from imminent danger.

I knelt down and called to her, and she crawled to me on her belly. I scooped her up and deposited her in the back seat of the car, where she settled on a blanket Paul laid out. We continued with our work, agreeing we would take her to the Humane Society of Santa Clara Valley (HSSCV), where Paul was Director of Operations, on our way home. At that time, HSSCV housed all stray animals found in the San Jose area.</p>
<p>The Terrier rode quietly with us for the rest of the afternoon. In fact, her presence gave us an excuse to stroll past cockfighters’ homes rather than just drive by – we had to walk our dog! By the end of the day, Paul and I agreed that this dog was too exceptional to take to HSSCV, where the high volume of animals handled (40,000 per year) made her prospects dim despite the many good programs the shelter offered.</p>
<p>We decided to keep her until Monday, at which time I would take her to the shelter where I worked as Director of Operations, the Marin Humane Society. Her chances of finding a lifelong loving home there were far better than at HSSCV. Meanwhile, Paul filed a “found” report with a detailed description of her at his shelter, in case someone came in looking for her.</p>
<p><strong>Finding strays</strong><br>If you’re like most dog lovers, sooner or later you’ll find yourself rescuing a stray dog. If she’s lucky, the dog will be wearing a tag with current owner information, and all you will have to do is make a quick phone call so the owners can come retrieve her.</p>
<p>All too often, however, there are no tags, and you must decide what to do with the foundling. You have several options:</p>
<p>• <strong>Take her to the nearest Animal Services shelter.</strong> These are the shelters that provide government services: impounding and housing strays, investigating complaints, selling licenses, inspecting kennels and other animal-related business, doing rabies control, and issuing citations for violations of animal control laws.</p>
<figure class=”right figure-width-288″><img src=”/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/0904Shelter.jpg” alt=”Evaluating Your Local Animal Shelter”><figcaption><p class=”caption” style=”width: 288px;”>Depending on a shelter’s size, budget, and number of incoming animals, a “found” dog’s stay there might be precipitously short before he is euthanized to create space for more pets. Ask about the average length of stay before dropping off a found dog.</p></figcaption></figure>
<p>• <strong>Take her to a private shelter.</strong> While some private shelters contract to provide the previously listed services, many do not. They may or may not accept strays, and are more likely to accept and adopt out owner-surrendered animals, offer spay/neuter services, and conduct fundraising events and public education programs. Private shelters may be full service (accepting all animals) or limited intake (which can include shelters sometimes known as “no-kill”).</p>
<p>• <strong>Take her to a rescue group.</strong> This is a viable option especially if your foundling appears to be a purebred or near purebred dog. Some rescue groups may ask that you take her to a shelter for the legal holding period first, and they’ll rescue her from there. Some will ask (beg, plead with) you to keep her at your home while they work to find a foster home or adopter. Some will take her immediately and willingly.</p>
<p>If she is a mix, or a member of a commonly found breed such as the Labrador Retriever, rescue groups are more likely to be full to the brim, and less likely to leap to your rescue. If she is an unusual breed, such as the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, there is probably a readily available rescue/foster opening. A quick search on the Internet will turn up rescue contact information for just about every breed of dog you can imagine.</p>
<p>• <strong>Take her home temporarily.</strong> This gives you a chance to find the owner yourself or, failing that, rehome her, without the risks inherent in taking a dog to a shelter. However, you must take all the steps described in the sidebar “If You Take a Stray Dog Home.”</p>
<p>• <strong>Take her home permanently.</strong> While this is sometimes a viable solution, it only works if you have the right environment and enough resources to care for your canine foundling. You can’t keep them all.</p>
<p>Of course, even if you were tempted to keep the dog from the moment you found her, you must still make every effort to find her original owner.</p>
<p><strong>Shelters: pro and con</strong><br>It’s best if you know what shelters are located in your area before you need one. It gives me comfort to know exactly where I would take a stray dog – even as I’m trying to catch him – to give him the best opportunity to be returned safely to his owner or find a new, more secure home. I’ve toured shelters in areas where I was house-hunting even before I’ve toured potential homes!</p>
<p>Understand when you go to look at shelters that even the best facility in the world is not a good place for a dog. Dogs do best when they live in small, stable social groups in a structured environment. Shelters, even good ones, are noisy, chaotic, and stressful. Dogs rarely get enough socialization, exercise, or mental stimulation; thus long-term confinement is not conducive to good mental or physical health.</p>
<p>Countless dogs suffer from kennel stress at shelters, often to the degree that their behavior deteriorates to the point where they are considered unadoptable. Some grow increasingly dog-aggressive and obsessively engage in fence-running and fence-fighting. Some begin to display aggression to people – it’s pretty much impossible to get adopted after that. Some attempt to relieve their stress by nonstop barking, spinning, tail-chasing, pacing, or chewing on themselves. Dogs like this are almost always euthanized for humane reasons. Even the best full-service shelters sometimes run out of room, and dogs must be selected for euthanasia for “space” reasons.</p>
<p>Having said that, however, a good shelter is a wonderful temporary haven from the hazards of running loose on the streets: bad weather, starvation, disease, injury, theft, poison, shooting, and more. I never hesitate to take a dog to a good shelter; he has access to a warm meal and a soft, dry bed, and prospects for long-term survival are much higher than on the streets.</p>
<p>I did at one time, I regret to say, live in a community where the local shelter was so wretched that I judged dogs’ chances for survival were better on the streets than in that shelter; it was the only time in my life that I passed by stray dogs rather than automatically stopping to pick them up.</p>
<p><strong>Evaluating shelters</strong><br>So how do you tell if a shelter is “good enough” to give a dog his best chances for survival? You’ll need to make personal visits to the shelters in your area, for starters.</p>
<p>A good shelter doesn’t have to be brand spanking new. The Marin Humane Society, originally built in the 1950s, with an Education Center added in the early 1980s, is still considered a leader in the animal protection field. Regardless of age, a shelter should be clean and well-maintained. Lack of cleanliness fosters disease, and deferred maintenance allows for dogs to be injured and possibly escape. Conversely, a poorly designed and constructed new shelter poses as many risks as a poorly run old one.</p>
<p>When you visit, let your nose and eyes judge the facility. Are cages, equipment, and trash cluttering the grounds, kennels, and hallways? Are you assailed with eye-watering odors as you enter the front doors? There will be some smell, of course, but it should be the occasional tolerable essence of freshly deposited urine or feces, not the pervasive odor that denotes long-term inattention to sanitation.</p>
<p>Walk through the various shelter kennels and catteries. Are they reasonably clean? A pile or three somewhere in the facility kennels can be expected. Piles of poop and puddles of pee in every kennel shout of unacceptable lack of attention to cleanliness. Is the chain link in good repair? Patched wire is okay, but protruding wires that can cause punctures, and holes that can trap and strangle dogs or allow their escape, are not.</p>
<p>Ideally, there is no more than one dog per kennel, possibly two dogs housed together, except for litters of pups, which can stay in a group. Municipal shelters don’t have the luxury of turning animals away, so they must sometimes, out of necessity, house larger groups of dogs. If dogs are housed in pairs or groups, are they segregated by sex and size? Males should not be with females, small dogs should be kept safe from large ones, and timid dogs should be housed separately from assertive, aggressive ones.</p>
<p>If group housing is the norm, does the shelter make maximum use of all kennels? One shelter I know of at one time housed as many as 10 to 15 dogs per crowded run, while keeping other runs totally empty – just because it was easier for staff to clean a few very dirty runs than lots of moderately dirty ones. Totally unacceptable.</p>
<figure class=”right figure-width-288″><img src=”/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/0904Shelter2.jpg” alt=”Evaluating Your Local Animal Shelter”><figcaption><p class=”caption” style=”width: 288px;”>All dogs in shelters should have a raised bed or clean bedding daily.</p></figcaption></figure>
<p>After observing the condition of the physical plant, spend a little time talking to staff. Shelter staff members are usually quite busy and won’t have time to stand around and chat, but they should be friendly, courteous, and willing to answer a few reasonable questions. Customer service staff in the front office, if there is one, are probably better equipped to answer your questions, but animal care staff should be pleasant as well. Here are some good questions to ask:</p>
<p>• <strong>How long do dogs stay at the shelter?</strong> Best answer – there is no maximum time limit; better shelters keep dogs as long as they have room, and as long as they are physically and mentally healthy.</p>
<p>• <strong>How often are dogs euthanized just for “space” reasons?</strong> Best answer – rarely. In reality, many shelters must euthanize for space daily, or near-daily. This doesn’t make them bad shelters – incoming numbers may be beyond their control – but it might influence whether you leave a dog there.</p>
<p>• <strong>How are animals euthanized?</strong> The only acceptable answer is “by injection of a barbiturate” (sodium pentobarbital). This is the fastest, most painless method available.</p>
<p>Sadly, a number of quite inhumane methods of euthanasia are still in use. Decompression (high altitude) chambers and gas chambers have been outlawed in some states. Carbon monoxide chambers are considered more humane than these because the gas induces drowsiness before death. Unbelievably, gunshot is still used by some shelters, despite its violence. None of these methods are considered acceptable by most animal protection professionals due to their potential for inflicting a painful and terrifying death.</p>
<p>• <strong>Do you do behavioral assessments of dogs prior to making them available for adoption?</strong> Best answer – yes; but then find out what the criteria are for passing an assessment. If your foundling is sensitive about having her ears or paws touched, for example, she may not pass some assess-ments. Some shelters are rigid about the results of “temperament tests” and may euthanize animals that are quite capable of rehabilitation, if more time and attention were taken with their placement.</p>
<p>• <strong>Can I adopt her if she isn’t reclaimed?</strong> Best answer – you will need to go through the normal adoption process, and if approved, pay all adoption fees. Be forewarned – if you don’t think you’ll qualify for adoption and aren’t willing to risk that you might not get the dog back, keep her and leave a “found” report instead. If the shelter doesn’t have an adoption process, your foundling could go to any potential home, including unsuitable ones.</p>
<p>• <strong>Do you require spaying and neutering of your adoption animals?</strong> Only acceptable answer – yes, for obvious reasons.</p>
<p>• <strong>Will you call me if she’s going to be euthanized?</strong> Likely answer – sorry, they can’t. It’s reasonable for staff to expect that if you want to adopt the dog you’ll do so when she’s available, not as a last minute lifesaving intervention. The reality of life at many shelters means it’s very difficult for staff to call at the last minute, then hold the dog for you, especially if it will take you several days to arrange to come in and adopt.</p>
<p>• <strong>What percentage of incoming dogs are reclaimed by their owners or adopted?</strong> Sadly, the national average rate of shelter euthanasia is somewhere between 50 and 70 percent. Shelters in southeastern states tend to have the worst euthanasia averages – 80 percent and higher; while those on the West Coast tend to have higher adoption and reclaim rates. So, any shelter that manages to get 30 to 50 percent of its animals reclaimed or adopted is doing better than the national average.</p>
<p>Please note that your shelter’s adoption numbers may give you some idea of your foundling’s chances for avoiding euthanasia, but averages mean nothing for the individual dog who is selected to be euthanized for any of the above-mentioned reasons: illness, injury, stress, or space.</p>
<p><strong>Keeping the dog?</strong><br>When all is said and done, you’ll need to decide if you’re willing to accept any risk at all that the dog you found may be euthanized. If you are, and feel that one of the shelters you’ve evaluated can offer her humane housing and care and a good chance for a lifelong loving home, then surrendering her is a reasonable choice.</p>
<p>If not, consider a rescue group, or look for a responsible limited intake shelter within driving distance – and know that good limited intake shelters are often full with a long waiting list, as well as selective about the dogs they accept (see sidebar).</p>
<p>If you’re not willing to risk euthanasia, or no decent shelters near your community can accept the dog, then you’re faced with taking him home. If you cannot locate the owner, you’ll then have to decide whether to make an effort to rehome the dog yourself or let your heart rule your head and add another dog to your pack.</p>
<p>That’s what happened with that scruffy little Terrier that Paul and I found in San Jose so many years ago. Fortunately for us, no one ever responded to the “found dog” report we filed at the shelter in the community where we saved her from certain death on the road. I have never once regretted our decision to keep her. She was an exceptional dog, bright, loving, and sensitive. She brought much joy to our lives and was one of the best teachers I’ve ever had. It was Josie who taught me that there was a better way to train than the use of choke chains and painful ear pinches, and started me on the path to positive training. It was a fine day for us when she ran in front of our car, and an even finer one when we decided to give her a permanent place in our home and our hearts.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><em>-Pat Miller, CPDT, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog. For contact information, <a href=”/newspics/pdfs/7_9_Resources.pdf”>see “Resources.”</a></em></p>

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  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

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Won One, Lost Others

0

There are a number of things I need to mention in a small amount of space:

First, the keyword “search” feature on the WDJ Web site is working again. Now you (and I) can just type in something like “barking” or “cancer” to find all the articles we’ve ever published that deal with that topic. Of course, you still have to pay to access them, either in print or in digital form – back issue sales help support our basic mission – but at least you can find the correct issue easily!

An editing error (that is, mine) appeared in Dr. Randy Kidd’s article last month on canine allergies (“Walking the Allergy Maze”). Dr. Kidd discussed a drug called cyclosporine, which has been used recently (and not without problems) to suppress an overactive immune response in cases of severe allergy. The error appeared in the text describing the drug’s introduction to the market. Cyclosporine was actually introduced for use in organ transplant cases (to prevent rejection) in the early 1980s.

Several of you wrote to express your dismay that “Beyond Food and Water,” an article in the July issue, did not mention or credit Sue Sternberg, who has worked for many years in upstate New York to establish and promote minimum mental and physical health guidelines for shelter animals. I apologize for the oversight; I deeply appreciate Sue’s work.

Finally, I want to extend heartfelt sympathy to the family who has had the pleasure of sharing their home for the last five years with Jessie, who was one of WDJ’s most frequent and reliable models until her untimely, unexpected death in her sleep in July.

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Adopted from a shelter when she was a few months old, Jessie was a challenge early on; she displayed some aggression at times. But her family did everything right – puppy classes, socialization, training, lots of exercise, and tons of love and patience – and she developed into a big-hearted, affectionate, humorous, and mostly well-behaved member of the household.

Because Jessie was the “right” color, well-trained, and living two doors away, I often asked if she could come over and wear something, chew something, or demonstrate something for my camera. Jessie was movie-star fabulous at maintaining eye contact with the lens, making for some of WDJ’s best photos. Plus, her family was ridiculously generous in sharing her with me, even to the point of giving me a house key, so I could go get her when no one was home! Jessie will be sorely missed by everyone who knew her.

-Nancy Kerns

The Spay/Neuter Debate: When and Should You Do It?

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[Updated July 5, 2016]

In some dog-related circles, the question of surgical sterilization, otherwise known as spaying (females) and neutering (males), is sure to spark hot debate. Humane associations and shelters are vocal proponents of sterilization for population control, a stand that makes sense considering they’re often the ones who deal firsthand with the tragic consequences of unplanned breeding. But some breeders – an even a few holistic veterinarians – are challenging the need for what they see as knee-jerk spay and neuter policies.

Many breeders, protective of their livelihood, resist any legislative attempts to limit the number of puppies they can legally produce or to mandate sterilization of any dogs. We won’t discuss this position further here.

Our concern today has to do with the assertions of some – voiced publicly by just one veterinarian we know of – that sterilization is wrongly touted as a health and behavior boon for dogs. In fact, the allegation goes, it may even be a threat to their well-being.

We Spay/Neuter for Population Control

Sterilization keeps dogs from breeding indiscriminately. It is de riguer for dogs adopted from shelters to be sterilized before release (or a sizable deposit is taken, refundable when proof of surgery is provided). Humane societies in this country are unanimous in their recommendations for sterilization of companion animals.

According to the Humane Society of the United States, 6 to 8 million dogs and cats enter shelters each year, and at least half of them are euthanized. The organization also calculates that a fertile dog can produce two litters of 6 to 10 pups in a year; that means that the female and her offspring can, theoretically, produce 67,000 unwanted dogs over a span of six years.

Spaying or Neutering

By all accounts, widespread sterilization programs have been pivotal to reducing pet overpopulation in the last few decades.

Health Benefits of Sterilization

Many veterinarians and dog experts recommend sterilization for another reason: the health of the dog.

“As far as disease is concerned, it certainly reduces the risks of mammary tumors and ovarian cancer,” says Richard Bowen, DVM, Ph.D, a professor at the Animal Reproduction and Biotechnology Laboratory of Colorado State University. “Anything associated with an active reproductive tract will be eliminated, and that’s a big deal.”

“If you neuter a female dog prior to puberty, she has an almost zero risk of developing breast cancer,” concurs Dr. Olson. Texas A&M’s College of Veterinary Medicine reports that intact female dogs have seven times the risk of developing mammary tumors than do females sterilized early in life.

Male dogs, too, may benefit, with the risk of testicular cancer eliminated – and rates of prostatic cancer reduced.

From a behavioral standpoint, sterilization is widely believed to reduce aggression toward other dogs, territorialism, and roaming, which can in turn protect dogs from the risk of injury associated with those behaviors, such as fights and getting hit by cars. Neutered males, particularly males who were neutered before puberty, are less likely to exhibit inappropriate urine-marking.

Finally, some veterinarians and veterinary behaviorists say that intact, nonbreeding animals suffer stress caused by hormonal drives that are not met.

A Professional Opinion on Spay/Neuter

Myrna Milani, DVM, is the author of seven books on canine and feline health and behavior. The veterinarian, based in Charlestown, New Hampshire, has researched and lectured about spaying and neutering, and doesn’t buy into the “PR campaign,” as she calls it, that responsible owners must sterilize their pets.

“When all of the responsible people neuter their dogs, who’s left breeding?” she asks, answering, “The irresponsible ones.”

Dr. Milani feels it’s unfair that owners are frowned upon if they opt to control breeding by carefully supervising their dogs instead of sterilizing them.

“It is really funny that we’ve equated responsibility with neutering, when in reality you could almost make a case for it being the opposite,” she says. The decision to not sterilize but carefully supervise a dog is “very mature, it takes a tremendous amount of commitment, and it requires a tremendous knowledge of and respect for that dog,” she says.

One reason sterilization is so popular in the United States is that few owners can claim that level of care, says Patty Olson, DVM, Ph.D., a diplomate of the American College of Theriogenologists. She cites Sweden as an example of a society where owner responsibility outweighs sterilization as the preferred choice of birth control.

“In Sweden, 93 percent of dogs are intact,” she says. “They don’t neuter. They have some pretty amazing ordinances by which dogs are controlled, there are very significant fines, and they do seem to have more responsibility. What we’ve had to do in the U.S. was institute something because of, if you will, irresponsibility.”

Sterilization Could Solve Temperament Issues

Beyond the issue of birth control is that of personality. Conventional wisdom has it that sterilized dogs make better pets, are less aggressive, and exhibit fewer behavioral problems.

“Neutering reduces aggression,” says Richard Bowen, DVM, Ph.D, a professor at the Animal Reproduction and Biotechnology Laboratory of Colorado State University. “The earlier you can neuter, the fewer aggression problems you’ll have. Roaming around, urine-marking, sexual behavior toward people and other animals . . . Most of those behaviors are dramatically decreased.”

A study by Sherman et al., published in Applied Animal Behaviour Science (April 1996), found that in cases of non-household aggression where neutering and a head halter were the suggested as remedies, 52 percent of owners reported improvement. An earlier study by Heidenberger and Unshelm, published in 1990 in Tierarztliche Praxis (Feb. 18:69-75), found that behavioral problems in most cases were reduced or eliminated after neutering, with 74 percent of the male dogs showing improvement.

Again, Dr. Milani dissents. Dr. Milani says that most of the dogs she treats for aggression or dominance problems are already sterilized.

“I can count on one hand the intact dogs I’ve seen with behavioral problems in the last 10 years,” she says. “If I have a client who has an (intact) male dog who’s aggressive, I do not recommend they get the dog neutered until after they have a behavior modification program up and running, because otherwise it might make the dog’s behavior worse.”

Dr. Milani says she suspects a “placebo effect” may be occurring: “Somebody has convinced (the owners) that it’s these testicles that are causing the dog’s problem. As soon as they’re out of there, the owner relaxes; and because the owner relaxes, that take the pressure off the dog, so the behavior improves.”

Further, Dr. Milani also believes that sterilization – particularly pediatric sterilization, which is done on very young puppies — may actually cause behavior problems.

Spaying or Neutering

“One of the reasons why people are shying away from early neutering of females for behavioral reasons is this condition known as androgenized or masculinized females,” she says. This describes a female pup, born into a predominantly male litter, whose body is awash in testosterone. “So you can actually have a female pup that’s more male than female. If they go through a heat or two, you get that softening effect of the female hormones. Whereas if you neuter them, they’re kind of in a no-man’s land,” she explains.

According to Dr. Milani, these pups have a very difficult time bonding with humans or other dogs and tend to be very aggressive and unpredictable. “I don’t know much in the way of studies…but I think they never make it into the studies because they don’t live that long,” she concludes.

Allegations of Health Risks from Spay/Neuter

Even ardent supporters of sterilization admit that the practice poses health risks. Some of the major concerns include:

Urinary incontinence. Studies estimate that more than 20 percent of all spayed females will develop incontinence during their lifetimes. Incontinence can develop shortly after surgery or many years later.

Cardiac tumors. A study by Ware and Hopper (Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine, March/April 1999) examined over 700,000 dogs’ records between 1982 and 1995 and concluded that neutering appeared to increase the risk of cardiac tumors, especially hemangiosarcoma, in both male and female dogs. According to the study, the relative risk for spayed females was more than four times that for intact females. The risk for castrated males was slightly greater than that for intact males.

Delay in growth-plate closure. Sterilization, particularly early sterilization, causes the growth plates of the bones to close later. There are fears that this delay can increase the likelihood of fractures.

Osteosarcoma. In addition to the growth-plate issue, there is growing concern that the lack of sex hormones in a sterilized dog can foster the rise of bone cancer. A 2002 study at the University of Purdue of 683 Rottweilers – a breed known to be at high risk of bone sarcoma – concluded that the risk for bone sarcoma was significantly influenced by the dogs’ ages at sterilization. According to the study, “Exposure to endogenous sex hormones appears to be protective, as suggested by the high risk for bone sarcoma in male and female dogs that undergo gonadectomy within the first year of life.”

The Purdue study quoted data from a 1998 study (Ru G., Terracini B., Glickman L. T.: Host related risk factors for canine osteosarcoma) that found neutered dogs were at 2.2 times greater risk of osteosarcoma than sexually intact dogs.

Unknow side effects. Dr. Milani also fears that denying the dog the presence of reproductive hormones may have effects that we haven’t yet calculated or considered.

“We know reproductive hormones affect the whole body. If the reason for (an animal’s) physical existence is reproduction, it makes sense that everything evolved to support than function,” she says. Dr. Milani is concerned about cutting off the potential effects those hormones may have on the growing animal, in terms of both physical and brain development.

Not Much Supporting Research

Of the concerns listed above, Dr. Olson and Dr. Bowen acknowledged that increased urinary incontinence is a well-known and well-documented side effect of sterilization in females. But both expressed doubt that the growth-plate issue is a cause for concern.

“That sounds bogus to me,” says Dr. Bowen. “Yes, if you do castration before growth plate closure, it will delay (the closure) so the animals will be slightly larger. But it’s a minor change. For example, one study showed that if a bitch is not spayed, the growth plates close at 42 weeks; if she was spayed at 7 weeks, the closure occurred at 60 weeks.”

“It’s something they determine in millimeters in X-rays – it’s minuscule,” agrees Dr. Olson.

Neither was convinced you could draw a compelling link between the growth-plate closure issue and subsequent problems such as fractures. We were unable to find any veterinarian who was familiar with the data about cardiac tumors and sterilization.

Timing of Sterilization Surgery

Once upon a time, conventional wisdom had it that it was best to allow a female to have one heat before sterilization. However, over the last 10 years there’s been an increasing move to neuter animals at a much younger age – between 6 and 14 weeks – in a procedure called pediatric neutering.

“Out here(on the East Coast, it’s not uncommon for a puppy to show up at a shelter, be taken away from the mother, vaccinated, spayed, and be in a new home by eight weeks of age,” says Dr. Milani. “In terms of animal health, I have concerns about sterilization at any age and these are multiplied a thousandfold when we’re talking about very young animals.”

A number of studies on pups sterilized at two months of age or earlier have showed no serious side effects. However, a study by Spain, Scarlett, and Houpt, published in the February 1, 2004, edition of the Journal of the American Veterinary Association, suggested that pediatric sterilization may have negative effects on females.

“Because early-age gonadectomy appears to offer more benefits than risks for male dogs, animal shelters can safely gonadectomize male dogs at a young age and veterinary practitioners should consider recommending routine gonadectomy for client-owned male dogs before the traditional age of six to eight months,” wrote the authors.

“For female dogs, however, increased urinary incontinence suggests that delaying gonadectomy until at least three months of age may be beneficial.”

What’s Best for Your Dog?

Unfortunately, there’s no easy answer here, and the final decision is a very individual one. The bottom line is that sterilization is a surgical procedure that fundamentally alters your dog’s physiology, and as such carries some risks. However, it’s also an undeniably effective form of birth and population control, and one that enables owners to be more relaxed about their dogs in sexually mixed company.

We’ve spent enough time in shelters to be gravely concerned with the issue of dog overpopulation. However, we also advocate strong owner responsibility and care, and are very sensitive to issues that might compromise the health of our canine companions.

If you choose not to sterilize your companion dog (or choose to delay his or her sterilization until well after puberty), it is imperative that you ensure that he or she is contained in a safe, secure environment and is never – repeat, never – given an opportunity to engage in unwanted breeding. That means keeping females in heat in the house or in a secure kennel during estrus; ensuring that intact males are not physically capable of breaking out of your yard and have no chance of dashing for freedom through an open door; leashing your dogs at all times when outside the home, kennel, or yard; and taking any other precautions necessary to minimize risk. If you cannot guarantee constant vigilance by both you and other family members, you should have your dog surgically sterilized.

If, in contrast, you are concerned about the potential risks outlined above, you may wish to wait until your dog is at least six months old (or, for females, has gone through at least her first estrus) before the surgery. Doing so would give the secondary sexual hormones an opportunity to work their “magic” on the dog’s physiology, potentially protecting the dog (to an as-yet unknown extent) against the development of urinary incontinence, cardiac tumors, osteosarcoma, and other issues concerning the bone growth plates. Of course, you must be hypervigilant against unwanted breeding until the dog is sterilized.

C.C. Holland is a freelance writer in Oakland, California, and regular contributor to WDJ.

Fine Tuning

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Believe me, I’m not a dog trainer, but I do get to play one … not on TV, of course, but behind the scenes of WDJ. Because I assign and edit the articles, and take most of the photos that accompany the articles, I have to completely understand and be able to illustrate what our expert authors discuss.

I often rely on one of the many talented positive dog trainers in my area to demonstrate for my camera the principles and practices described by our authors – most frequently our Training Editor, Pat Miller. But sometimes the article begs for a non-professional trainer – an ordinary dog owner. In that case, I have to be able to describe and demonstrate the article’s principles to my models, who are often my more-or-less willing family, friends, and neighbors.

So, in order to assign, edit, and illustrate WDJ’s training articles, I find myself “playing” trainer with my own dog, as well as dogs belonging to everyone I know. But of course, I’m not a “real” trainer, just a highly interested, motivated, and knowledgeable amateur. And, as with most amateurs, I sometimes get in over my head as I seek to put my knowledge into practice.

Problems in the park
This occurred recently, as I was dog-sitting Hannah, my brother’s big dog, for a fort-night. As I strove to help Hannah understand the rules in my home and home office, and supply the fit young dog with ample opportunities to exercise, I found myself spending a lot of time training her. And at least once a day, I found myself getting stuck – perplexed about how to best deal with something or other, despite my having paid deep attention to seven years’ worth of articles about training written by some of the best positive trainers in the world, and attendence at numerous training seminars and conferences!

Take, for example, the morning I found myself yanking on Hannah’s leash quite angrily and punitively, after her sudden charge toward a squirrel she sighted across the park (seemingly) threatened to rip my arm out of its socket. I was really mad for about three seconds. Then the shocked, hurt expression on Hannah’s face brought me up short. “Oh my goodness!” I thought to myself. “I’m the editor of the Whole Dog Journal, a leading advocate for nonviolent training methods, and I’m yanking this dog’s leash! What the heck am I doing?!”(Well, I’m human. And Hannah’s impulsive dash took me by surprise, scared me, and hurt! These are not excuses, mind you; just explanations.)

My next thought was, “I wish I could have a private training session with Pat, so I could see how she would handle this!”

Consultation is invaluable
The more I thought about it, the more I liked the idea of having a professional trainer like Pat “coach” me through some specific issues with Hannah. WDJ has given me a very good theoretical understanding of how to train dogs in an effective and humane manner, but I am sometimes at a loss as to how to deal with a specific aspect of training or handling in a “real-time” application.

Pat lives and trains on a gorgeous farm-based facility in rural Maryland, and I’m in California, so an in-person consultation was out. But we cooked up the following photo spread as a way to accomplish two things: help me with the problems I was having with Hannah, and possibly help some of you, who may be struggling with similar issues with your dogs. I imagine that many of you are like me – increasingly educated about training but still able to benefit from direction when actually practicing with your dog.

There is no substitute for a personal consultation with a trainer. But while private, personal lessons are ideal, telephone consultations can also be incredibly helpful. Pat has provided me with invaluable guidance on numerous occasions via telephone or e-mail. This format – a written and photographic description of the problems Hannah and I were having – proved to be even more useful.

I had my brother, Keith, take pictures of Hannah and me on a walk. After sending them to Pat, I asked her for suggestions regarding what I saw as the biggest challenges to safety and enjoyment while walking Hannah: her frequent pulling; her occasional strong lunges toward squirrels and fascination with them; her aroused behavior when passing other dogs (and sometimes just people); and her occasional fear of something or someone on the street. I’ve used many techniques that Pat and our other expert trainers have described in past articles, and had much success, but Pat’s suggestions helped me be even more effective.

Meat-Based Home-Prepared Dog Food Diets

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We’ve always said that a home-prepared diet, comprised of fresh, wholesome foods, is ideal for all dogs. We recognize that many people can’t or won’t shop for and prepare their dogs’ food; they may not shop for and prepare their own! This is why we review the best-quality commercial dry and canned foods every year.

However, a growing number of brave folks want to realize the benefits of homemade food for their dogs. People who have raised generations of dogs on home-prepared diets say their dogs grow and age more gracefully, experience far fewer health problems, look and feel terrific, and even exhibit fewer behavior problems. And who wouldn’t want all that for their dogs?

Of course, we all want that for our dogs. But not everyone is willing to deal with the continual shopping and food preparation that a home-prepared diet entails. Interestingly, it’s the meat component that seems to discourage the largest percentage of dog owners who are interested in homemade diets but who have not yet taken steps to give it a try.

Acknowledging that shopping for, storing, and preparing meat can be daunting for some people, a number of companies now offer a wide variety of whole, raw meat products just for dog owners. (There are also many companies who sell frozen complete diets that contain raw meat; that’s not what we’re talking about this month, though we will be reviewing these before year’s end.) This month, we’re focused on companies who manufacture meat products intended to be fed in a supplemental fashion, or (more frequently) as the meat component of a home-prepared diet.

Different approaches
For those of us who don’t shop for fresh food every few days, keeping a ready supply of meat on hand can be a hassle. That’s why manufacturers focused their efforts in this market on two different methods of preserving meat. Some offer frozen, raw meats, and some offer canned meats.

Anyone can buy a quantity of meat and freeze it, so the manufacturers who sell frozen meat products add value for dog owners.

Home-Prepared Dog Food Diets

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Many offer a wider variety of meats and cuts than most of us have access to in our local grocery stores. Some offer pasture-fed, free-range, and/or organically grown meats that are simply not available locally.

Most significantly, many offer meats that have been ground with fresh, raw bone included. This is important, because any diet that contains meat (which is high in phosphorus) must also contain a source of calcium to maintain the optimum calcium-phosphorus ratio (1.2:1 to 1.4:1).

Fans of the so-called BARF diet (Bones And Raw Food, or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) include raw bones in their dogs’ food as a matter of course. Some feed their dogs whole or crushed raw poultry wings, necks, and backs as a source of both meat and bone. Others, fearing a bone-related problem (perforated stomach or intestine, broken teeth) use powerful meat grinders (or their friendly neighborhood butchers’ grinders) to reduce fresh bones of poultry, pork, lamb, or beef to a safe paste. The only problem with grinding bones is that the manufacturers of most meat grinders will not honor their warranties if they learn the grinders were used to grind bone.

That’s where the companies that sell frozen ground meat and bone come in. They find the industrial-strength grinders that can stand up to the job, and provide you with nutritious, perfectly risk-free ground meat and bone.

Not all the people who feed their dogs home-prepared diets are BARF proponents, however. Some don’t appreciate the argument that fresh, raw bone is the best source of calcium and other minerals; they prefer supplementing their dogs’ meat-based diet with (cooked) bone meal, eggshell powder, or some other source of calcium.

Others object to diets that include raw meat or poultry, citing the potential dangers of salmonella, campylobacter, and other bacteria that can be present in raw meat. Some people actually cook the frozen meat products described below, and others buy canned meat products, which are cooked in the canning process.

Another advantage of purchasing meats from one of these vendors is the ability to buy products with organ meat ground in with the muscle meat. Liver, kidney, and heart are famously full of nutrients, and most proponents of home-prepared diets include a variety of these organs in small amounts. It’s difficult to find local butchers with good sources of organ meat from animals that have been raised organically or at least pasture-fed, so this is a great opportunity.

Finally, these vendors make a wide variety of meats available: in addition to beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, and pork, many sell rabbit, ostrich, buffalo, goat, kangaroo, and duck. The varying amino acid profiles and levels of vitamins and minerals in each meat help maintain a dog’s nutrient “balance over time.”

Consider before buying
Some of these products are available only in a local area; other companies are more than happy to ship anywhere in North America. Make sure you calculate the cost of shipping into the price when you compare one source to another.

All of these products are less expensive when purchased in larger quantities. If you have friends or acquaintances who also prepare their dogs’ food, you may want to place a group order to reduce costs. Some enterprising owners have had success forming buying groups by posting fliers at their local holistic veterinarians’ offices.

Make sure you ask the companies who sell frozen foods about their shipping methods. How long should it take the food to get to your home? What happens if it arrives defrosted? Who will pay for that?

Sharing expertise
If you are new to the whole idea of home-prepared diets, you should definitely do some homework before buying any products. Check out our suggested reading list on page 13. There are widely disparate opinions about several important aspects of canine nutrition; you’ll have to make up your own mind whether a cooked or raw diet is best for your dog, whether you feel comfortable feeding raw bones, and whether grain should be included, for just a start.

Contact the manufacturers listed on the next page and ask for their opinions on those topics, too. Most of them have years of experience and research to draw on.

If all of this seems too daunting, by all means, keep your dog on his commercial diet while you read up on home-prepared foods. And consider starting out with a “complete” frozen raw diet; we’ll review these products in an upcoming issue.

 

-Nancy Kerns is Editor of WDJ.

Structure of the Canine Eye

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KEEP YOUR DOG’S EYES HEALTHY: OVERVIEW

1. Eyes respond well to natural health prevention methods, so keep them healthy with nutrition, exercise, care of the immune system, and avoidance of toxins and stressors.

2. Use alternative therapies – by themselves or in combination with conventional medicine – to treat short- or long-term eye problems.


The dog’s eye is pretty much a garden-variety mammalian eye, with some notable adaptations that have evolved over the millennia. It is a globe with two fluid-filled chambers (anterior and posterior). The chambers are separated by the lens, the structure that helps focus light beams onto the rear part of the eye, the retina. The eye’s outer, clear surface, the cornea, offers protection to the inner eye and helps the lens focus light onto the rear of the eyeball, the retina.

Looking into the healthy dog’s eye, you’ll see a dark center (pupil) surrounded by a colored ring known as the iris, and outside the iris is the white sclera. The iris is some shade of brown in most dogs, but some dogs have one or two blue eyes. Attached to the iris are muscles that function to open or close the lens, letting in more or less light, depending on the available light.

Dogs have a prominent third eyelid (nictitating membrane) located at the bottom of the inner part of the eye, between the lower eyelid and the globe of the eye. The third eyelid is thought to offer protection for the eyeball and to help in removing foreign bodies. Third eyelids are normally concealed beneath the lower eyelids, but one or both may become prominent with certain diseases, for several hours after general anesthetic, and with irritation from a foreign body.

Dogs have upper and lower eyelids, and irritations or scratches may arise when the hairs on these lids project toward the eyeball – a condition either genetic or a result of a wound that scarred the lid. The muscles surrounding the eyeballs (the orbicularis oculi) move the eye’s globe so it can be directed toward what the dog wants to see.

The Function of A Dog’s Eye

While the human has evolved as a diurnal (active in the daytime) species, dogs initially evolved as nocturnal or crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk) predator species. As a result, we humans have great visual acuity, color perception, and depth perception, but we do not see well in the dark.

Dogs, in contrast, have well-developed night vision and their sight is well adapted to detect movement. There is some trade-off between visual acuity (the ability to see detail) and the ability to see in the dark. The dog’s visual acuity has been estimated at six times poorer than an average human; admittedly, this is a bit of a guesstimate (how do you get a dog to read an eye chart?).

Structure of the Canine Eye

Compared to the human eye, the dog has a larger lens and a correspondingly larger corneal surface, enhancing its ability to capture light and thus see in reduced lighting conditions. In addition, behind the dog’s retina is a reflective surface, the tapetum, which further enhances low-light vision. The eerie glow you see when a beam of light hits your dog’s eyes at night is the reflection from the tapetal surface of his eye. The tapetum is also easy to see during a routine eye exam using an ophthalmoscope.

Much like the human retina, the dog’s retina is lined with rods (the sensing cells adapted to work best in low light and used for motion detection) and cones (cells that work best in mid to high levels of light, with the ability to detect color). The proportion of rods to cones is much higher in dogs than humans, thus the enhanced night vision in dogs.

In addition, dogs only have two types of cones (dichromat), whereas humans have three types (trichromat). This expansion of cone-cell types allows the human to see a wider spectrum of color; the dog’s world probably consists of yellows, blues, and grays, while the human color range expands into the reds and greens.

A dog’s lateral eye placement allows better wide-angle vision but hinders depth perception and close-up viewing because there is minimal visual overlap between the two eyes (called binocular convergence). Thus, your dog can easily snag a ball moving sideways but may have trouble catching a ball tossed right at his nose.

Specialized eye exams can detect the focal point of the lens – whether it is right on the retina (normal or emmetropia), in front of (myopia or nearsightedness), or behind it (hyperopia or farsightedness). At one time it was assumed all dogs were myopic, but judging from new information on these evaluations, most dogs are likely very near normal (emmetropic). Some breeds, however, are especially prone to being myopic. (Of the examined dogs, the breeds that had a higher incidence of myopia included German Shepherds, Rottweilers, and Schnauzers.)

As a person ages, his lenses “harden” and may eventually develop cataracts. As the lens hardens, its ability to bend (or “refract”) the incoming light to focus it on the retina diminishes, so the person’s visual acuity is diminished over the years and the person typically becomes myopic. Dogs, too, experience this hardening of the lens (see information on cataracts below), and conventional medicine often recommends surgically removing them. However, recent information indicates that after surgery, without the refractive ability of the lens, dogs become terribly hyperopic. Recent advances have produced intraocular prosthetic lenses that help correct for this loss of focusing ability.

The Other Senses in Dogs

Dogs “see” with much more than their eyes; in fact, in comparison to humans, dogs rely far less on their vision. While the dog’s visual perceptions are relatively fuzzy and less colorful compared to ours, the canine nose and ears provide him with profoundly more sensation than do ours. Dogs may smell us long before they see us, and they can hear sounds that don’t even touch our zone of hearing. (More about these senses/organs in later articles.)

In addition to these differences between species, though, we have to consider that the dog’s (and our) eyes are backed up with a myriad of body senses that add to what they actually see. Animals “see” with their entire bodies, a sense that is augmented in haired areas of the body – the “feeler” whiskers on the snout, for example.

Watch dogs at play and it is quite apparent they have an incredible sense of balance. We know that diminished vision (or dizziness) adversely affects this ability to orient the body to the horizon. The sense of balance is enhanced by the nerve endings on the pads of the feet, the joints, and the nerves throughout the spine. All these send kinesthetic information back to the brain, which the animal then processes into information that gives him the current balance status.

There are even more, often subtle, ways of “seeing” that we know little about. What is it, for example, that a dog “sees” in an individual that makes him growl in distrust? Do some (or all) dogs see auras? How is it that the pineal gland, located deep inside the brain, “sees” nature’s cyclic differences in light patterns to trigger reproductive and sleep patterns?

An Alternate Look at Canine Eyes

We can describe the eye in terms of anatomy and physiology. But there are other ways of understanding the eye, and in terms of natural health, these ways may be even more important than the mechanistic descriptions.

Traditionally, the eye has been seen as the portal to the animal’s spirit or soul, and in all cultures there is an abundance of folklore about the eyes: about the connections between eyes and the gods, the relationship of the eyes and the sun or moon or other natural phenomena, and about the eyes as they signify the well being of the animal and of the species.

Many holistic health practitioners also consider the eyes to be sentinels – expressing on the outside the current inner health status of the animal. A healthy animal has eyes that literally shine – giving off a radiant vitality that speaks of whole-body health. A common comment I get from clients after we’ve taken their dog’s pain away with chiropractic and acupuncture is, “I’m not sure he’s walking a whole lot better, but his eyes have their old gleam back.” And, I’ve had clients say, “Doc, you’ve given me my dog back. I can see his old self in his eyes.”

In contrast, a sick animal often mirrors his illness through his eyes. Obvious symptoms include eye discharges or color changes. Reddened eyes, for example, can indicate any number of inner diseases, and severe liver disease may change the normally white sclera to a yellowish tinge. An animal who is sick oftentimes has eyes that have simply lost their luster, seem to be darker or greyer, and/or have lost their ability to mirror vital energy.

Chinese medicine gives another perspective on the eyes. In Chinese medicine the Liver organ system opens into the eyes, and the state of all the “organs” is reflected in the eyes because the pure Jing Qi (activated source of life) of all the organs “pours through the eyes.”

The general appearance of the eyes is especially important for perceiving the animal’s spirit (its Shen). Lively eyes indicate that the Jing (source of life) is uninjured. Stiff, “wooden,” inflexible eyes show a condition that is considered “deficient.” If the whites of the eyes are red, it is a sign of an excess (or “heat”) condition, caused by either “external influences” or an “excess of heat” from an organ, usually the liver.

Structure of the Canine Eye

Additionally, some methods use the eyes specifically as an aid to diagnosis. Iridology, for example, claims to be able to diagnose diseases by observing the iris. According to this method, areas of the iris are correlated to organs and areas of the body. When there is a disease within the body, it will be reflected as a change in color or shape in the corresponding area of the iris.

Finally, the time comes at the end of an animal’s life when all vitality seems to be drained, when the eyes seem to be emptied of nearly all of their normal energetics. It’s as if the eyes are telling us it is now time to go on to another life – and veterinarians I know use this eye-sensitive way to help clients decide when it’s time for euthanasia.

Natural Eye Care for Dogs

You can care for your dog’s eyes naturally. As with any organ system, preventing diseases is always much easier than trying to cure them after the fact.

Exercise and the eyes. Whole-body exercise is a prime component of any program of natural eye care. The eye’s structures are extremely sensitive to oxidative stress and to other toxins. Exercise is our first line of defense and perhaps our most natural antioxidant, helping move oxygen through all the eye’s structures and helping eliminate a buildup of toxins.

For healthy body, mind, spirit, and eyes, walk with your dog for at least 20 minutes a day, and (if your vet has checked him out as basically healthy) occasionally give him some anaerobic exercise by tossing the ball or letting him take a good swim.

Food for the eyes. Nutrition is equally important as exercise, and there are some general eye-care nutrients as well as some that have specific healing qualities for eyes.

Good food for the eyes includes a healthy dose of antioxidants such as vitamins B, C, and E; beta-carotene (and other carotenes such as lutein); co-enzyme Q10; and alpha-lipoic acid. Antioxidants are abundant in green leafy vegetables and other highly colored foods such corn, squash, and egg yolks, and many herbs (including the common culinary ones) are high in antioxidant activity. Zinc, selenium, and magnesium are also important “eye nutrients.” Water is a critical eye nutrient because the membranes of the eye are susceptible to drying when the animal is dehydrated.

Lutein and alpha-lipoic acid have been mentioned in recent human medicine literature as being especially beneficial for eyes, with the usual caveat that results are still preliminary.

Immune system care. Many holistic practitioners feel there is a connection between many (if not all) chronic eye conditions and an imbalanced immune system. In addition to the antioxidants mentioned above, herbs such as echinacea (Echinacea spp.) and Siberian ginseng (Eleutherococcus senticosus) can enhance and rebalance the immune system.

To improve eye conditions, try to avoid anything that compromises the immune system: excess stress; food additives such as synthetic preservatives and artificial flavors and colorings; environmental toxins such as pesticides and herbicides; and the excess use of vaccines.

Since the liver is a major detoxifying organ and (according to Chinese medicine) directly connected to the eyes, it is important to keep it healthy. Nutrients such as the B-vitamins, choline, and inositol enhance liver function. Herbs that are beneficial to the liver include milk thistle (Silybum marianum), turmeric (Curcuma domestica), and dandelion root (Taraxacum officinale).

Practitioners of Chinese medicine believe that anger and depression adversely affect the liver and these emotions also stress the immune system. If a dog is angry (for constantly being left home alone, for example) or depressed (possibly from the recent loss of one of his companions), consider flower essences or aromatherapy for their remedial effects on the emotions.

Eye massage. One way to ease eye tensions and to improve circulation to the eye is to give your dog a massage. Use your fingertips to make a circular motion that begins at the corner of the eye and moves clockwise around the bony structures surrounding the eye. Let your fingers gently dip into tissues surrounding the eye; located here is the Orbicularis oculi, the muscle mass responsible for rotating and turning the eyes.

Concentrate on the corners of the eye (both lateral and medial). Do this circular massage several times, first clockwise, then counter-clockwise – as long as your dog enjoys it. Then, gently lay your fingers over the eye and very gently add pressure to the eyelid. (Practice on yourself first to see how much pressure is comfortable.) This very simple massage not only is relaxing and rejuvenating to the eyes, it stimulates several key acupuncture points.

A continuation of the eye massage is to massage areas that contain key eye-related acupuncture points and “trigger points” (areas that are sore when the associated organ is affected). Give your dog a general neck massage along the sides (from the mastoid bone to the sternum) and upper part of the dog’s neck (from the base of the skull to the shoulders); massage deeply around the upper shoulders; and also massage along the muscles where the two jaw bones attach.

Make a Natural Eye Wash for Your Dog

For mild eye irritation caused by dust or other irritants, make a simple, soothing salt solution, or brew this herbal bath made from eyebright (Euphrasia officinalis). Mix ¼ teaspoon of sea salt into a cup of distilled or filtered water. For the herbal eye wash, use one teaspoon of the herb in a cup of water, boil, strain, and add ¼ teaspoon of sea salt into this cup of brew.

Use a clean cloth or gauze soaked in the solution to clean away crusts and secretions from the eyes and lids, or place several drops directly into the eye. This solution can be used frequently as an eye wash and for its soothing properties, and it can be used to remove simple intruders such as dust or airborne irritants. After the eyes are clean, add a drop of soothing, fresh, pure almond oil to each eye. (Make sure the oil used is not essential or aromatherapy oils.)

Holistic Medicines for Dog Eyes

As a general rule holistic medicines function extremely well for treating chronic ocular problems, and western medicines may be more appropriate for some of the acute or traumatic conditions.

Cataracts are an example of a condition that typically arises slowly and gradually, over time. Preventing their occurrence with holistic methods (nutrition, herbs, and food supplements) is the best course of action. Once they have developed, western medicine might recommend cataract surgery to remove them. But I personally would use this only as a last resort, considering holistic options first, whenever possible.

On the other hand, if a dog has just been kicked in the eye by a mule and there is immediate swelling and perhaps blood, I’d make a quick trip to the best eye specialist I could find.

A red eye (conjunctivitis) might be an example of a case that is in the gray zone – whether you should consider western medicine, alternative therapies, or consult a veterinary ophthalmologist will depend on the severity of the case, whether it came about acutely or over time, and your own gut feelings for what you feel would be the right way to proceed.

Conventional Western medicine tends to be fast-acting, but typically addresses conditions only at their surface, palliating symptoms with little concern for the underlying cause, which results in a lack of deep healing. Alternative medicines are, as a general rule, slower to act, perhaps because they tend to delve deeper into the cause of the condition. While adverse side effects can occur with any medicine (or almost any substance, for that matter), they occur far less frequently with alternative medicines. Some of us feel that many of the conventional Western medical methods actually create long-term, chronic problems.

Acupuncture has been successfully used to treat many eye conditions. Keratitis, chronic conjunctivitis, and all sorts of eye irritations typically respond favorably to acupuncture, and cataracts or even blindness may respond.

Structure of the Canine Eye

A typical acupuncture approach to eye conditions might seem strange to a western-trained practitioner. Chinese medicine visualizes the eyes as connected to the Liver (an “organ system” concept that correlates somewhat, but not entirely, to Western medicine’s understanding of the form and function of the liver).

An acupuncturist might therefore diagnose a condition of conjunctivitis as an example of excess/heat of the Liver, and her needling points would be positioned to bring the Liver back into balance and to further bring the whole body back to a state of harmony of Yin and Yang.

Many healing herbs can be applied topically to the eyes and have proved to be successful for treating all kinds of eye conditions. In addition, herbs can be taken internally for their nutrient value – vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.

Some herbs, notably bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) and eyebright (Euphrasia officinalis) are reputed to have a direct effect on the eyes when taken internally. In addition, many herbs enhance liver function and the immune system, the other important components of overall eye care. [Editor’s note: Dr. Kidd’s book, Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care, contains much more information on herbs for dogs.]

At first glance it may seem that chiropractic adjustments would have no effect on the eyes. But the eyes are, after all, connected directly to the brain. Trigger points along the neck muscles may refer to conditions occurring in or around the eyes, and these trigger points may be due to underlying misalignments of vertebrae. So, in addition to massage, chiropractic adjustments may alleviate these trigger points and concurrently help eye conditions.

Common eye diseases, diagnoses, and natural treatments Following are brief discussions of the diagnoses and treatment protocol a holistic practitioner might use for the most common eye diseases of dogs: eye irritants, conjunctivitis and keratitis, cataracts, and dry eyes. Remember that every case presents its individual problems and solutions, and that there is no one-treatment/dosage-fits-all in holistic medicine. Remember too that holistic medicine (at least as I define it) includes the possibility that we may use some of conventional Western medicine’s methods as well those normally considered alternative.

All the treatments listed below assume that, along with these treatments, we will also be doing some or all of the above mentioned therapies: periodic cleansing and soothing eye washes; nutrient and herbal support; massage; exercise; enhancing the immune system and avoiding anything that might diminish its abilities; and giving attention to the liver as it is associated with the eyes.

Finally, I absolutely recommend that you immediately see a veterinarian (who may want to refer you to a Board Certified Ophthalmologist) whenever the eye symptoms have a sudden onset; you see blood, either around the eye or within the globe itself; the eyeball itself appears swollen or the eyelids are severely swollen; and the pain or irritation is driving your dog nuts.

Eye irritations. Intruders into the eye can be almost anything from dust particles, pollen, irritating chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, etc.), and smoke to larger splinters, thorns, or plant awns (such as foxtails). A common, temporary intruder, especially for inquisitive puppies, is a cat’s claw. The extent of the damage caused by these intruders depends on whether they have scratched or ulcerated the cornea and on the amount of pain or irritation they produce.

Signs that your dog has acquired an eye irritant include tearing and redness; whining, scratching at the eye(s), rubbing on the floor; swelling of tissues surrounding the eye(s); prominence of the third eyelid(s); and if the condition has been ongoing for a while, a mucoid (gunky) or purulent (pus-containing) discharge.

If only one eye is affected, the irritant is likely limited to that eye (think foreign body such as a fox tail here, or irritation from a scratch). If both eyes are affected, it is likely from an environmental irritant, but with bilateral involvement we also have to consider the possibility of generalized disease.

Removal of the irritant is, of course, the first step. For dust particles and mild chemical irritants, the eye wash listed earlier will probably suffice. Larger particles may need to be removed mechanically and this often requires anesthesia. It always surprised me the number of seemingly huge foreign bodies (oftentimes foxtails) I removed from behind the third eyelid when I was managing an emergency clinic in California. These are typically hidden from view and require anesthesia to remove.

If the redness and irritation persist after you’ve washed out the irritant, there may be a scratch on the cornea. Have your vet stain it to be sure, and use the follow-up treatment that is appropriate for the extent of the damage.

Conjunctivitis and keratitis. Conjunctivitis is inflammation of the membrane that lines your dog’s eyelids and the front of the sclera; keratitis is inflammation of the cornea. The presence of either of these diseases may indicate a generalized disease or one limited to the eyes, and their symptoms are much the same as those that occur with irritants (perhaps without the intense pain). Conjunctivitis and/or keratitis can be caused by any number of infectious agents – bacterial, viral, or fungal.

Some herbs have antibiotic activity, and herbal medicines are typically effective against a broad range of potential pathogens. For mild conjunctivitis, a soothing tea with additional antimicrobial activity can be brewed using one or more of the following herbs: chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), calendula (Calendula officinalis), elder flowers (Sambuscus nigra), or Oregon grape root (Mahonia spp).

Strain the brew and soak a clean cloth or gauze to be used as a compress over the eye, or put several drops directly into the eye several times a day.

In Chinese medicine the most common cause of conjunctivitis is Liver Heat. Acupuncture can be used to “calm” the heat and restore immune system balance.

Cataracts. A cataract is a spot on the lens (or over the entire lens) that has lost its transparency. When a dog’s pupils appear blue or gray in normal light, he likely has cataracts. (A scar on the cornea – from an old, healed wound, for example – may also appear as a gray or blue spot. Your vet can tell whether you are dealing with an old scar or cataracts.) Cataracts develop gradually, typically over several years.

In humans almost everyone over the age of 65 has some degree of opacity, and after 75, cataracts are common. Cataracts usually occur in both eyes, are painless, and almost never cause total blindness. While they are commonly a factor of old age, cataracts may also be caused (or precipitated) by trauma, chemicals (especially steroids), X-rays, and high blood sugar as observed with diabetes mellitus.

Conventional therapy consists of removing the lens surgically, but cataracts are an example of a condition that may respond very well to alternative therapies.

Nutrition is especially helpful, concentrating on antioxidants: alpha-lipoic acid, Coenzyme Q10, and lutein (the carotenoid that is concentrated in the pupil), have all been mentioned as especially important here. In addition, vitamins A, C, and E are important, as is zinc and the B vitamins. Make sure the dog drinks plenty of water, to prevent the membranes of the eye from dehydration.

Good herbs to add to the diet include eyebright and bilberry, and any others with antioxidant activity. (Almost all the common culinary herbs have significant antioxidant activity, making them a good nutritional supplement for their medicinal quality as well as for their ability to stimulate the aging appetite.)

Acupuncture might be helpful for improving circulation to the head, immune-system function, and to promote healing.

Dry eyes and arthritis. Tears are not just water. They have three separate components: oil (from the Meibomian glands in the eyelids); mucus (from goblet cells deep inside the eyelids); and watery tears (from the lachrymal glands located in the conjunctiva of the eyelid). Tears wash away intruders and lubricate the eyes and lids.

Dry eyes can be caused by eye diseases or systemic conditions, and evidence is mounting that common causes are related to other chronic and immune-mediated medical conditions such as arthritis, diabetes, and systemic lupus. Many medications, such as antihistamines, antidepressants, diuretics, gastrointestinal medications, and cold remedies, can also cause dry eyes.

Symptoms of dry eyes – the result of corneal drying and possible ulcerations – include redness, pain and itching, and even excessive tearing at times. Diagnosis of dry eyes is confirmed by a test called a Shirmer test which uses a test strip of paper placed on the lower lid to measure the production of tears.

Conventional treatment consists of restoring the tear film with artificial tears. There are three types of artificial tears: preserved (with benzalkonium chloride or EDTA), transiently preserved, and nonpreserved. Preserved tears, while perhaps the safest in avoiding potential contamination, can be irritating to some patients. Transiently preserved tears are more cost-effective while being minimally irritating. Nonpreserved tears are meant for single-dose administration and are the most expensive.

Similasan eyedrops, a homeopathic herbal preparation containing apis, euphrasia, and sabadilla, can be substituted for the other artificial tear preparations.

Nutritional support is especially important for treating dry eyes. Antioxidants are very helpful. Be sure to include vitamin A or other carotenoids (those with a vitamin A deficiency often have dry eyes, skin, and hair); B vitamins; zinc; magnesium (dilates the small blood vessels that bring blood to the tear glands); and calcium. Again, make sure the dog drinks plenty of water.

Since there is good evidence of a connection between dry eye and arthritis, when treating dry eye, many holistic practitioners add supplemental therapies for arthritis from the outset, such as glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate.

Veterinary Ophthalmology

Board Certified Veterinary Ophthalmologists are veterinarians who have taken extra training in the specialty of ophthalmology, and their expertise is invaluable in many instances. They are especially helpful for treating severe emergencies and for providing specific diagnoses of problem cases. They see enough cases that their diagnostic and treatment capabilities far exceed those of the general practitioner veterinarian. (I saw quite a few traumatic eye cases when I ran an emergency clinic, but I still felt more comfortable when the ophthalmologist had re-checked my diagnosis and treatment.)

While most ophthalmologists may have not had training or experience in alternative medicines, their initial input is often invaluable, and I’ve generally found this group to be accepting of alternative methods. If you are concerned about your dog’s progress, or if you have any questions, have your vet refer you to a Board Certified Veterinary Ophthalmologist – they can be found in most large cities and almost all veterinary schools.

Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his Ph.D. in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

Help Prevent Tragedies With the Pet Fund

We hear about a lot of amazing people who are doing great deeds for and with dogs – people involved with rescuing and fostering dogs, search and rescue, training service or therapy dogs, etc. We also know that dog lovers are asked, frequently, to donate money to these and many other animal-oriented good causes. But because our primary mission is to provide our readers with information they can use to benefit their own dogs, we don’t often highlight these admirable canine-oriented social services in the pages of Whole Dog Journal.

We’re making an exception for the Pet Fund, largely because it’s possible (but we hope it doesn’t happen) that the organization could provide you or someone you know with a lifesaving service someday.

Saving lives
In its simplest description, the Pet Fund pays for urgent veterinary care for pets whose owners cannot afford it.

The people behind the Pet Fund deplore the fact that dogs (and other pets) are sometimes euthanized, relinquished to shelters, or suffer without medical care because their owners cannot afford expensive surgery or emergency vet visits. Pet insurance programs are available, but often even these programs cannot cover the total cost of necessary medical care. The Pet Fund can, for a limited number of qualified owners, step in and make a huge difference, sometimes with only a modest grant.

Here’s how it works. Either a participating veterinarian or an individual contacts the Pet Fund. The veterinarian discusses her diagnosis, prognosis, and recommended treatment of the animal needing assistance with a Pet Fund staff member. Depending on the level of funding available and the urgency of the needed treatment, the Pet Fund staff decides whether or not to fund the animal’s care, based on several factors.

Pet Fund

The decision is based on the stated financial need of the owner, the opinion of the treating vet as to the medical necessity and urgency of the treatment needed, and the demonstrated capability of the animal owners to be responsible for their animals.

According to Karen Leslie, Executive Director of the Pet Fund, “The owner’s responsibility is crucial, since we will not fund treatment for animals whose owners do not seem to be able to care for the animals’ basic needs now or in the future. One of the greatest benefits of the Pet Fund is keeping animals out of shelters, so giving funds to irresponsible owners would not accomplish this goal. There is a significant difference between pet owners who are responsible but have incurred financial difficulties and irresponsible owners who view their animals as objects and unnecessary expenses.”

If the funding needed for a particular course of treatment is available and approved after the consultation with the veterinarian, the Pet Fund staff informs the vet of the level of funding that will be granted. (Funds are dispersed only to treating veterinarians, never to individuals.) The most urgent cases are funded first, with other less urgent requests put on a waiting list for available funding.

The people behind the Pet Fund are clear that its intent is not to grant funds for any “heroic” lifesaving measures which would cause unnecessary suffering to animals, nor to fund basic medical care, such as vaccinations, spay and neuter surgeries, or routine veterinary care. “We feel it is the responsibility of all pet owners to budget for these expenses,” says Leslie. “The Pet Fund can best serve in urgent situations where serious medical treatment is needed beyond routine care.”

Other goals
Recognizing that preventive care could help many pet owners avoid many future medical problems for their companion animals, the Pet Fund provides information about available products, services, and healthy pet practices on its Web site. Information about pet insurance plans and financial services (such as savings plans and debt counseling agencies) is also made available to interested pet owners.

“If we do not provide a way for the pet owner to develop financial freedom, we have not totally remedied the situation or accomplished our goal,” says Leslie. “It’s a large part of our objective to ensure that our clients provide a more secure future for their companion animals by developing their resources in order to become independent and stable. The Pet Fund therefore truly benefits both animals and people.”

At this point, most of the Pet Fund’s grants fall into the $500 range, making up the difference between the cost of an animal’s treatment and what each client is able to pay. The grants have provided assistance to hundreds of companion animal owners; we think helping the Pet Fund reach its goal of helping thousands of animals is a great idea.

Service Dogs In National Parks

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“Is he something special, or just a mutt?” the man asked, as I passed him on the trail. Trigger, my 65-pound Australian Shepherd mix stood beside me with tail wagging, ready, as always, to meet this inquisitive stranger with the blunt question of parentage.

As one of the first people to hike in a national park with a service dog, I was very aware that Trigger and I had the responsibility to set a good example and to educate people about service dogs in national parks. Often when we stepped off the trail for a break or to let people pass, we got questions and I always took the time to answer them as accurately as possible. A lot of questions were about service dogs:

• What kind of service does he perform? (This, as he stands there wearing a pack!)

• Did he go to service dog school?

• Where do you get a pack dog?

While many dogs are trained by professionals and there are schools for the most common functions that dogs perform (such as guide and sound alert), many more dogs are trained by owners to perform the services necessary to meet their own specific needs. When I adopted Trigger I didn’t know he was to become my service/pack dog. But as our relationship developed and his training progressed, I also learned that I qualified under the Americans With Disabilities Act to declare him as my service/pack dog. This made it possible for me to take him into national parks and other places where dogs as pets are not allowed.

Defining Disabled

If you hike with a service dog, one personal question that you should be prepared to deal with is obvious: Why do you need a service dog? The details and nature of your response may depend on who is asking and why.

Many people do not understand how an individual can hike five or six miles over mountainous terrain and be disabled. When I meet people in high mountain camps or on the trail, I tell them about the ADA, which mandates a much more user-friendly (though relatively untested) definition of disability than that of the federal government for a Social Security disability grant. The ADA uses the terms “restriction,” “limitation,” and “impairment” all interchangeably with the word “disabled.”

I have hiked and backpacked all my life, but I am now substantially limited in what I can carry. The purpose of the ADA is to ensure that people with limitations are not denied full and equal enjoyment of the “goods, services, facilities, privileges, advantages, or accommodations” offered by a place of public service. While the ADA does not require you to show proof of your restriction, I inform park superintendents that I qualify under the ADA for pack-carrying assistance, so they can notify their rangers of this policy exception.

Enhancing the Outdoor Experience for You and Your Dog

If you are an experienced outdoor person and you have a sturdy, well-behaved dog, he has the potential to be of substantial help to you. I used to backpack, but now I am retired, and only able to continue hiking with pack-carrying assistance. Now I like to hike between established camps where meals and primitive shelter are provided.

Well before each trip, Trigger and I start to condition ourselves to carry more weight and hike farther. The maximum pack weight recommended for a dog is 25 percent of its body weight, but that doesn’t mean that every dog will carry that much. Trigger weighs a slender 65 to 70 pounds, but he doesn’t want to carry 15 pounds. He willingly carries about 13 pounds after several months of gradual conditioning. Most of the time, Trigger only carries about seven or eight pounds on a day trip in the winter, and less in the summer. Trigger carries all the water we drink in a day, so his load lightens as we travel.

Some people think that dogs should be banned from public land because they may jump on people, bark at or chase animals, and are generally disruptive or incompatible with nature. I have to agree that I have seen my share of dogs who are out of bounds and out of control, but contrary to what people may think, a well-trained dog is neither disruptive nor incompatible with nature. Animals aren’t any more afraid of a dog than they are of a person, unless they are being stalked or chased.

Trail training would not be complete without careful desensitization to lots of distractions – people, other dogs, bicycles, horses, and mules. I attended canine agility meets and horse shows at fairgrounds, to give him exposure and training to reinforce his steady behavior around livestock and in distracting environments.

Early in his training, when Trigger was tempted to chase a squirrel, I used a long distance “sit” in place rather than a recall to keep him from chasing anything that he saw. Better to use an immobilizing command, such as “sit” or “down” than an active behavior such as “come!” when his predatory reflexes are tempted. I used a dragline for backup to have him sit in place. Then he could be rewarded for a steady response.

One afternoon in the campground on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon Trigger appeared to be asleep. Then all of a sudden he was on his feet with his eyes riveted on a tree. Clinging to the opposite side of the tree was a Kaibab squirrel peeking around the tree trunk at him.

The squirrel could certainly have run away or climbed the tree if he wanted to. Trigger could have barked and scared him away. But it was as if time was suspended as two very alert and curious animals contemplated each other. The squirrel was focusing all of his attention on Trigger; and I had the extended opportunity to observe a friendly natural encounter. Trigger is always pointing things out to me, and it’s fun to see nature through the eyes of a dog.

There was one animal that we were instructed to avoid: the pack mule.

Over the years, mules have become a part of the wilderness experience. Visitors have come to depend on them as a means of transportation, and park staff depend on them as beasts of burden. They are essential for getting food and supplies up to the high camps. The mules are steady and dependable for what they do. The problem is, most of them have never seen dogs.

When hiking in the Grand Canyon, I was instructed to get Trigger off the trail and hide him when I saw mules coming. Once, when we saw the mules coming there was no place for both of us to get off the trail. The only possible place for him to go was down into a steep ravine between two legs of a tight switchback. I couldn’t go down there with him, but I tied his leash to his pack and sent him down, putting him on a “down stay” with a hand signal. The mules, not more than 10 feet above, surrounded him as they made their way around the switchback. He didn’t move until I called him up.

Future of Dog Packing

Is there a future for dog packing in the national parks? There could be, if people traveling with dogs in national parks show consideration and respect for other visitors. At this time, only dogs performing a needed function to compensate for a physical (or mental) limitation of its handler can accompany its person on trails in national parks.

If there were an organization to promote dog packing, could the members reach consensus on what they want? What is their part of the bargain? What kind of privileges would they like to earn? Hiking with a dog (as a pet) in a national park should definitely be an earned privilege, not a right. Dog owners need to take more responsibility for their dogs’ supervision and control, especially in high-use areas.

A lot of people would like to see some kind of special permit for those of us who hike with our dogs. But even so, dog packing under the ADA is a very controversial and contentious subject. Understandably, there is a serious concern that the open nature of the ADA will encourage abuse within it. Along with every right, there is the responsibility to act with respect and consideration for those we meet, and for those who are likely to be most impacted by one’s actions.

If dog owners want to access the back country of national parks, we have to actively educate ourselves and others about canine trail manners, and regulate dog packing so as to minimize the risk of losing what freedoms we still have. Many other users of public lands have organizations to promote their interests. Dog owners do not have any real national voice, but there are a lot of dog owners who would like to be considered as fair share users of public lands.

What else can service dogs do? Find out on Dogster.com.

Jane Cox is author of Dog Packing in National Parks: How a Pack Dog Became a Service Dog. Cox is retired, and lives in Central Point, Oregon.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”