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Herbal Remedies for Treating Older Dogs

by Gregory Tilford

The sun has barely risen over the eastern horizon on a cold Montana morning, when a warm lick on the face awakens me from a dead sleep. I sit up slowly, my back aching from the yard work I did nearly a week ago. A whispered curse leaves my lips as a new shot of pain – from an old ankle injury – tells me that the skies are threatening to rain; it’s time to get busy stacking firewood before the first snow flies.

Another lick, this one a reminder, moistens my forearm. Willow, my 12-year-old Shepherd/Husky, wants to take an early morning walk on the mountain behind our house, which will be followed by her customary morning cookie.

In years past, Willow and I would hike far and wide. I’m always looking for herbs to photograph and study, and Willow always enjoyed our far-flung rambles.

Of course, at 12, Willow is a senior dog. Her joints are stiff and sore after an overlong walk. Her right leg wobbles after exercise, due to an old ligament injury. Petting her soft, graying snout, I tell Willow how aging really sucks.

At least for humans.

For humans, old age is as much a mindset as it is a physical circumstance. But to a dog, the thought of “yielding to the wheels of time” never occurs. Willow isn’t concerned about growing old. She doesn’t worry about her wobbly leg. She doesn’t even care about the egg-sized fatty tumor on her flank; she just wants to enjoy every waking moment with me – regardless of my moaning and groaning!

As a loving caregiver with a responsibility to provide Willow with the longest, happiest “dog’s life” possible, I must be careful not to let my worries of losing her interfere with her fun. That just wouldn’t be fair.

So instead of focusing all of my efforts on sheltering her from all possible harm, I try to provide her mind and body with everything they need to remain healthy, efficient, and fulfilled.

Although we cannot turn back the hands of time and may not be able to prevent the inevitable, a great deal can be done to assure optimum health and well-being during a dog’s later years of life.

Old age should not be viewed as a downhill slide to inevitable suffering and death. Nor should chronic disease be perceived as part of growing old. Each year hundreds of elderly dogs are put to sleep prematurely – not because they are deathly ill, but because their guardians can’t get past their own fears of watching their companions grow old and die a natural death. Granted, it’s difficult to live in anticipation of a companion’s death, but with all things considered, this is really our problem, not theirs.

The fact that an animal is growing old and becoming more susceptible to illness does not automatically predispose him to chronic disease – it just means that he needs some added care and attention. With your loving support, your old best friend can enjoy life right up to his last day.

The senior diet
Each month of nutritional deficiency can trim healthy years from the latter end of your dog’s life.

Please think about that last sentence for a few more seconds, and then get to work at improving her diet, because many chronic problems seen in elderly dogs are very often related to nutritional deficiencies.

Regardless of how good the food is you are feeding, the fact remains that as your dog’s body ages, its functional abilities to utilize food and properly eliminate waste will begin to decline. Liver problems, chronic renal failure, diabetes, arthritis, and hip dysplasia, as well as neurological problems (such as canine cognitive dysfunction) are just a few of the problems that may be prevented by not only improving the quality of her diet, but also the efficiency by which your dog’s body can utilize it.

Diet should be frequently reevaluated and adjusted as needed to accommodate any reduction in digestive efficiency. The food must be highly digestible and rich with vitamins, chelated minerals, meat proteins, and fats that are easy for her aging body to assimilate.

Depending on your senior companion’s condition and lifestyle, a vitamin/mineral supplement may be needed. Digestive enzymes and probiotic (beneficial bacteria) supplements should be added to each meal to optimize nutrient absorption and assist with the breakdown and elimination of waste.

A good essential fatty acid supplement should be added to the diet as well. This will help support and protect the liver and immune system, while aiding in the production and maintenance of healthy skin, coat, bones, muscles, and nervous system.

To find out exactly which foods and supplements are best for your “chronologically challenged” companion, talk to your holistic veterinarian.

Herbal support
In older animals, herbs are especially useful for providing added support to body systems that have become less efficient over time.

Digestion and waste elimination can be improved with the use of mild liver stimulants, such as dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) or burdock root (Arctium lappa). This will help with the removal of solid wastes from the body, while increasing the production of bile and digestive enzymes.

Marshmallow root (Althea off.), fed fresh, dried, or in any form of low-alcohol liquid, can be used to aid in the passage of stool by providing a protective, anti-inflammatory, and lubricating barrier to the intestinal mucosa. Flaxseed or psyllium husks will work in a similar manner as well.

Spirulina, dried nettle leaf (Urtica spp.), wheatgrass, or other “green foods” can be mixed with your dog’s food to provide added measures of trace minerals and antioxidant protection, while astragalus root or Siberian ginseng (Eleutherococcus senticosis) may be useful for strengthening the immune system and your companion’s resistance to physical or emotional stress.

The kidneys have a difficult life, too, and over time they may become scarred and dysfunctional from repetitive infections, stones, and other damaging influences that may or may not have been detectable earlier.

To increase urinary efficiency and help strengthen mucous membranes in the urinary tract, dandelion leaf, nettle, cleavers (Gallium aparine), or parsley leaf tea can be added to your dog’s drinking water. Add just enough to noticeably tint the water; this will also provide alterative qualities that the animal’s body can selectively utilize for the purpose of eliminating waste and maintaining clean, well-nourished blood. This can be done every day, for the remainder of your companion’s life.

If your dog displays early symptoms of renal failure, twice daily doses of ginkgo and hawthorn (Crataegus oxycantha) will help improve blood circulation and may help reduce blood pressure in the kidneys, while cornsilk (Zea mays), marshmallow, or plantain leaf (Plantago spp.) will help reduce inflammation.

Oat tops (Avena sativum) serve as an excellent nervous system tonic that can be fed on a daily basis to help improve and regulate nerve transmission. In dogs who display diminished mental clarity or odd behavior that is attributable to brain dysfunction (e.g., cognitive dysfunction in canines), blood circulation and neurological functions of the brain can be assisted and sometimes improved with the use of ginkgo, gotu kola, or peppermint. In certain cases, St. John’s wort (Hypericum spp.) may be useful as well, but this determination should be left to a holistic veterinarian who is familiar with your animal.

Aches, pains, and loss of mobility as a result of joint and connective tissue degeneration may be relieved with supplements of glucosamine and/or chondroitin sulfate, horsetail, or yucca root. In cases of arthritis flare-ups, licorice (Glycyrrhizza glabra), or Boswellia may bring symptomatic relief.

Cardiovascular efficiency can be supported with daily supplementation of hawthorn berry extract. If circulatory impairment is evident in the legs, ears, or tail, then tincture of ginkgo or encapsulated preparations of yarrow (Achillea milli-folium) or cayenne may be of assistance.

All of the herbs and supplements in this article are readily available at health food stores, and many can be accessed in products that are specifically formulated for use in dogs. To determine which herbs are appropriate for your companion, consult a holistic practitioner who specializes in veterinary botanical medicine.

Most important of all, don’t give up on your old friend. With a little loving help, your companion’s senior years can be as rich with fun and adventure as puppyhood was. The pace will just be slower. In my dog’s case, especially for her caregiver!

-Greg Tilford serves as a consultant and formulator to hundreds of holistic veterinarians throughout the world, and is CEO of Animal’s Apawthecary, a company that develops herbal products specifically for use in animals. Tilford is also author of four books on herbal medicine, including All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets, (Bowtie, 1999).

November 2003 Letters

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I thoroughly enjoyed the article “Stop the Panic” by Gregory Tilford in the September 2003 issue. Gregory mentioned a liquid extract formula that combines valerian, skullcap, oat flower, and passionflower. Can you tell me what the name of that formula is?

I have a very high energy one-year-old Labrador who gets very excited whenever I get the leash out for dog training classes or even for walks. He whines so loudly it’s hard to believe he can hear me when I ask him to sit above all that noise, but he is very obedient. Possibly he is lip reading?

I also wonder why Greg did not include the Bach Flower Essence “Rescue Remedy” in his article.

-Deby
via e-mail

 

Tilford was talking about his own company’s product: Animals Apawthecary’s “Tranquillity Blend.” Tilford is modest about his own work, and reluctant to promote his own products over others that may be available. Animals Apawthecary’s products may be purchased from Animal Essentials (888- 551-0416 or www.animalessentials.com, click on “buy products” and then “Animals’ Apawthecary”).

Don’t confuse flower essence remedies with herbal remedies. Flower essence remedies are highly diluted preparations, similar to homeopathic remedies in that they contain little of the original phytochemicals found in their source plants. Tilford is an herbalist.

WDJ has published an article on flower essence remedies (“Flower Power” March 1999) and also discussed them (and “Rescue Remedy” in particular) in “When the Thunder Rolls,” April 2000. Looks like we’re due for a new article on the topic.

———-

Thanks so much for the article on Addison’s disease (“The Great Pretender,” February 2003). Little did I know when I read it in February that I would need that information in August. My beloved three-year-old Bull Terrier was diagnosed with Addison’s after nearly dying from a cardiac arrhythmia secondary to a high potassium level. I gave your article to my local vet and the vet at Colorado State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital. The information in the article helped me enormously.

-Betsy Cullen, nurse practitioner
via e-mail

 

We’re so glad that article helped. As you learned, Addison’s is one of the most frequently misdiagnosed life-threatening diseases. Readers, save those back issues! You never know when you will need them.

———-

Thanks for the outstanding article about deaf dogs in the September 2003 issue (“Deaf-Initely Trainable”). It was a great pleasure to read such a positive and accurate article. One of my dog companions is a deaf Australian Cattle Dog. She is so smart, well-behaved, and happy. I hope that excellent information such as that in your article will help dispel some of the myths about deaf dogs and enable more of them to find loving homes.

-Lynda
via e-mail

———-

As the owner of a unilaterally deaf Australian Shepherd, I just had to write and thank you for the article on deaf dogs. Similar to Dr. Sell’s experience with her first deaf dog, our journey into the deaf dog world was unplanned. Frankie (our deaf Aussie) has shared our lives for over three years. We can’t imagine life without him.

I would also like to applaud Jack Edward’s description of “special needs” as it relates to deaf dogs. Truly, we do not think of Frankie as a special needs dog. Being deaf is simply part of being “Frankie.” Since he was our first deaf dog, we were originally very concerned about being able to communicate with him. Very quickly, we learned our concern was completely unfounded. Quite simply, we rarely think about his deafness. Frankie communicates quite well, both in the canine and human world.

Our lives are forever changed, and we remain indebted to Frankie for the lessons he has taught us. We are also grateful to the deaf dog community at large as a source of support, education, and friendship.

-Brenda Hutton
Glendale, Arizona

———-

Thanks for the very informative article on deaf dogs. I hope that you’ll consider including an article on another group of differently abled dogs: blind dogs. Sadly, they too are often euthanized due to their disability, or not given all of the opportunities open to other dogs. But as my blind Great Dane, Sapphire, clearly demonstrates, they can keep up with their sighted counterparts, and have a very active, enjoyable life.

Sapphire, who just turned four years old, had been brought into a vet clinic to be euthanized due to her disability. Fortunately, she made her way to a rescue group instead, and eventually we found each other when she was 16 months old. She is now active as a therapy dog, visiting the VA hospital and senior homes.

In addition, as of June 1, she was the 12th ranked APDT Rally Obedience dog in the country. She earned her first Rally Obedience title in January of this year, and has two legs towards her second title, which is all off-leash. We have started working on agility. She thoroughly enjoyed a two-day Canine Freestyle workshop, and will soon be starting a Canine Freestyle class.

I hope that those in doubt can be encouraged to realize that being blind does not need to keep a dog from living a full, happy life.

-Jeri and Sapphire
via e-mail

 

Wow! It’s amazing what we learn from our readers. We’ll start working on an article regarding the care and training of blind dogs.

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Not Just for Sore Backs

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By Cindy Maro, DVM

Cassie, a spayed female Shepherd mix, was adopted by her owner from a local animal shelter in October of 1994 when she was about three months old. As her veterinarian through her first five years of life, I saw nothing out of the ordinary at her routine visits. I provide holistic care to my patients, combining my knowledge and training in conventional and alternative therapies.

In May 1998, Cassie came into my office with her first healthcare issue. Her owner complained that she was losing weight and acting anxious. Her mild separation anxiety had worsened, and she was becoming more clingy with her owner.

In my physical examination, I found that Cassie had some sensitivity to palpation of her back and hips. She also had some “fixed” areas, where a normal range of motion in the lower lumbar spine and pelvis was reduced. I recommended that we schedule another appointment so we could take X-rays, and possibly perform some spinal manipulation, depending on the X-ray findings. I also prescribed some Bach Flower remedies that Cassie’s owner could try for Cassie’s separation anxiety.

Cassie’s separation anxiety improved before her follow-up visit, and her owner decided to cancel the X-ray and adjustment appointment.

Health problems accumulate
In October 1998, Cassie had an emergency visit to my associate, who provides conventional veterinary care, for an anal gland rupture. My associate provided antibiotics and topical treatments to treat the rupture.

In February 1999, Cassie came in for a routine physical. At that point, her owner stated that Cassie’s sensitivity to being touched around her pelvis and rectum was increasing. We suggested a glucosamine supplement, but did not perform any chiropractic adjustments.

Throughout 1999, Cassie had numerous visits to our office for abnormal stools and anal gland problems. Her stools would vary in consistency from runny diarrhea to loose bowel movements and then clear up after anti-diarrheals were prescribed.

Cassie’s owner was still reluctant to have X-rays taken after a few bouts of diarrhea, but she did consent to having a medical work-up, including laboratory testing for hypothyroidism. It turned out that all Cassie’s tests were normal, except for her thyroid. She was put on a thyroid replacement hormone in 1999 by my associate.

In 1998 and 1999 Cassie had a total of 12 appointments and numerous phone consults between our veterinary staff and her owner. Her problems included diarrhea, colitis, vomiting, and anal gland impactions. All these were treated with conventional veterinary medications.

New symptoms, new tack
In June of 2000, Cassie started having urine leakage problems. Her owner would find wet spots on the bed or carpet after Cassie would get up.

Cassie’s routine physical exam was normal, but her animal chiropractic evaluation was abnormal. Her thyroid level was regulated and all other urine and blood tests were normal. This time, I saw her for an exam and put her medical history together with my knowledge of her prior and current animal chiropractic evaluations.

When I explained that the conventional veterinary treatments for urinary leakage in spayed female dogs include frequent medications (two to three times daily) to increase the tone of the bladder sphincter or hormones, which can have negative side effects, her owner consented to my performing necessary adjustments to Cassie’s spine.

I found Cassie had a subluxation of the fifth lumbar vertebrae. In addition, her sacral apex and the base of her sacral bone were in need of adjustment.

Cassie’s owner saw immediate results following Cassie’s spinal adjustments. Cassie stopped having urinary leakage, and her long-term bowel and anal gland problems ceased. Everything was great for the two-plus years.

Now we know
Cassie made it until January 2003 before she required chiropractic care again. At that time, her owner recognized the signs right away as being related to Cassie’s spine (and the spinal nerves which directly go to the bladder, muscles of the lower back, and anal glands). At that time, further spinal adjustments immediately corrected the urinary incontinence.

Now, when Cassie starts having leakage, her owner schedules an adjustment right away. To date, Cassie has not needed any medications like phenylpropanolamine or estrogens. She has not even required herbs or homeopathic remedies, because her adjustments have successfully stopped the incontinence each time.

Cassie’s case is interesting, because it shows some of the possible problems that can be directly linked to the vertebrae and the spinal nerves. Cassie’s conditions never evolved to the point where she showed typical spinal pain or lameness signs to her owner or the veterinarians who treated her.

A pet can have a problem that relates to the spine and its health without showing gait or lameness signs because the nerves that exit the spine send branches to every internal organ in the body. All those nerves can be affected by subtle spinal subluxations and change the signals they relay to and from the muscles and organs without any outward signs from the pet.

Without specific training in animal spinal adjusting or animal chiropractic, a veterinarian would have no way of knowing and remedying the conditions that Cassie experienced over a period of five years.

It is important to note that medical testing, urinalysis, and X-rays should be a part of every patient’s care, ideally prior to animal chiropractic care.

Unfortunately, before I became aware of the AVCA (American Veterinary Chiropractic Association) and was trained in animal chiropractic care, I performed the typical medical work-up and stopped there. I had no knowledge of any other way of treating pets, even though I saw a chiropractor for my own healthcare. I am certain I let many pets walk out of my office with correctable subluxations. I consider myself blessed by the knowledge and ability to help my patients by providing increased comfort, function, and a drug-free remedy for many of their healthcare issues.

———-

Cindy Maro, DVM, attended the Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine and practices holistic veterinary care in Ellwood City, Pennsylvania, a suburb of Pittsburgh. Dr. Maro is a certified member of the AVCA, as well as the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society, American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture, and the American Veterinary Medical Association. Her Web site is holistic.petplace.com. For contact information of other members of the AVCA, see avcadoctors.com.

Cod Liver Oil for Dogs Helps the Circulatory System

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Cold liver oil for dogs offers many health benefts.
Cod liver oil for dogs offers many vitamins that improve a dog's health and wellbeing. Credit: Arnhor Aevarsson | Getty Images

People don’t like the taste, but giving cod liver oil to dogs gets a much more positive reaction. That’s convenient, because cod liver oil for dogs is an inexpensive, easy-to-use canine health insurance.

Centuries ago, people in the fishing communities of Scotland, Greenland, Iceland, and Norway thrived despite their intensely cold winters by taking a daily dose of cod liver oil. By the 1800s, folks around the world were taking a tablespoon a day because it relieved aching muscles, stiff joints, and rheumatism in addition to improving overall health.

In the 1950s, scientists discovered that essential fatty acids in cod liver oil improve heart and circulatory system health.

The vitamins in cod liver oil have been proven essential for growth, healthy bones, proper development of the brain and nervous systems, normal sexual development, and a strong immune system.

And scientists are still studying cod liver oil. In 2002, researchers in Wales found that cod liver oil’s omega-3 fatty acids disable enzymes that destroy cartilage. As a result, cod liver oil delays and even reverses the “irreversible” destruction of joint cartilage and inflammatory pain associated with arthritis.

All of cod liver oil’s human benefits are shared by dogs, including improved memory function, reduced behavioral disorders, and enhanced immunity.

“It’s definitely a miracle food,” says nutritionist Krispin Sullivan, CN. “There is hardly a disease in the books that does not respond well to treatment that includes cod liver oil, and not just infectious diseases but also chronic modern diseases like heart disease, cancer, and diabetes.”

How Did We Discover Cod Oil’s Benefits?

In Europe and North America, rickets used to be a common illness. Without vitamin D, calcium salts are not deposited in bones in sufficient quantity to make them rigid. As a result, soft bones bend out of shape.

In 1892, a British scientist discovered a connection between the geographic distribution of rickets and sunlight. The more sunlight a region had, the fewer rickets cases it reported. In 1913, researchers at the University of Wisconsin showed that lactating goats kept indoors lost substantial amounts of skeletal calcium, while those kept outdoors did not. (Osteomalacia, or adult rickets, is a softening of bone caused by progressive decalcification.) Six years later, a German scientist cured children of rickets using artificially produced ultraviolet light. Two years after that, researchers at Columbia University cured children of rickets by exposing them to natural sunlight.

Though the sunlight connection was well established, no one understood how or why it worked. Then in 1918, British physician Sir Edward Mellanby, who was searching for a nutritional cause of rickets, tested oat porridge, the staple food of Scotland, for its effect on bone health. His test subjects were dogs. He fed them nothing but oats and kept them indoors throughout the experiment, and they promptly developed rickets. When he cured the dogs by feeding them cod liver oil, Mellanby assumed that the oil’s newly discovered vitamin A had repaired their bones. This was a logical assumption, for cod liver oil is the world’s most concentrated food source of vitamin A, containing more than four times the vitamin A of beef liver, the next most concentrated source.

However, at Johns Hopkins University, Professor E.V. McCollum proved that this was not the case. The cod liver oil he heated and aerated to destroy its vitamin A content no longer cured night blindness (which vitamin A prevents), but it did continue to cure rickets. This meant that cod liver oil must contain a previously unknown essential nutrient. In 1922, McCollum published his results and, in keeping with the practice of naming vitamins in alphabetical order, called his discovery vitamin D. Later research proved that sun exposure on the skin produces vitamin D, hence its “sunshine vitamin” nickname.

Newer Research on Cod Liver Oil

Although cod liver oil is not as widely used as it was a hundred years ago, it is still easy to find, inexpensive, and even more beneficial than early researchers realized.

For example, cod liver oil greatly improves heart function and treats it even in advanced stages by healing the lining of damaged arteries. Cod liver oil’s omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins A and D facilitate mineral absorption, improve muscle function, and support elasticity of the blood vessels. In addition, inflammation-reducing prostaglandins made from EPA (one of cod liver oil’s essential fatty acids) help inhibit inflammatory responses in the arteries.

Cod liver oil’s vitamin A strengthens the immune system, fights infection, heals the skin, repairs the digestive tract, is essential to the formation of bones and teeth, aids in fat storage, stimulates new cell growth, and improves the body’s utilization of protein. Cod liver oil taken by nursing mothers improves the fatty acid profile of breast milk to promote optimal brain development, and it increases vitamin A levels, which help prevent infection. However, cod liver oil does not increase the vitamin D content of breast milk.

In more than 40 human trials, vitamin A has been shown to reduce morbidity and mortality of infants and children, and cod liver oil was the supplement of choice in many of these trials. “Books on feeding infants published in the 1930s and 1940s routinely recommended cod liver oil,” says Sullivan, “starting with 1 teaspoon at the age of three weeks. It was Dr. Spock who threw this wisdom out the window by recommending vaccinations instead of the powerful nutritional support of cod liver oil.”

The easiest way to give cod liver oil to infant puppies is to use an eyedropper to place a few drops on the mother’s nipples or directly into the puppies’ mouths. Start with 1 drop per 4 ounces (¼ pound) of body weight per day. As puppies grow, give 3 to 4 drops per pound of body weight. Puppies weighing 6 pounds should receive 1/8 teaspoon per day, and pups weighing 12 pounds need ¼ teaspoon per day.

Like our human population, America’s dogs are increasingly susceptible to obesity, insulin resistance, and adult-onset diabetes. Cod liver oil has been used in clinical trials on humans with insulin-dependent and non-insulin-dependent diabetes. In both conditions, cod liver oil improved glucose response and other markers of the disease. In 2001, Finnish scientists reported that infants who received vitamin D were much less likely to develop juvenile or adult-onset diabetes than those who did not. In addition, vitamin A in cod liver oil helps promote healing and protects the retinas of diabetic patients.

Even colitis (inflammation of the colon) responds more effectively to the type of omega-3 fatty acids in cod liver oil than to medication. And let’s not forget cancer, whose epidemic rise coincides with America’s declining cod liver oil consumption. Vitamin A has been part of nearly every nutritionally based cancer therapy.

How You Administer Cod Liver Oil Matters

Eating fish, even oily fish, will not provide the levels of nutrients found in cod liver oil, and taking fish oils is not the same as taking cod liver oil. Salmon oil, which has significant health benefits, has only one-fifth the potency of cod liver oil.

Most cod liver oil has a vitamin D to vitamin A ratio of 1 to 10. If a teaspoon of cod liver oil contains 500 International Units (IU) of vitamin D, it contains about 5,000 IU vitamin A. However, some brands, such as Carlson Labs, which is sold in health food stores, have a much lower vitamin A ratio. One teaspoon of Carlson Labs cod liver oil contains 500 IU vitamin D and only 1,250 IU vitamin A. This proportion helps prevent vitamin A toxicity, especially in dogs who eat large amounts of beef liver or receive vitamin A from other sources.

Heavy metals and other contaminants are always a concern when dealing with ocean fish, but all cod liver oil sold in the United States is tested according to protocols of the Association of Analytical Communities. It must be found free of detectable levels of 32 specific contaminants, including mercury, cadmium, lead, and PCBs, before it can be imported.

Cod Liver Oil Dosage and Cautions for Dogs

A teaspoon of cod liver oil contains 45 calories. The recommended cod liver oil dose for dogs who do not receive other sources of vitamins D and A is ¼ teaspoon for dogs weighing 10-15 pounds; ½ teaspoon for 25-pund dogs; 1 teaspoon for dogs weighing 50 pounds; 1½ teaspoons for 75-pound dogs; and 2 teaspoons for dogs weighing 100 pounds. These doses have been used for decades with dogs who fast one day per week (no cod liver oil on fast days) as well as dogs who are fed every day.

But for dogs who eat a commercial diet, cod liver oil supplementation can be dangerous, because commercial pet foods contain vitamins A and D. In most cases, these vitamins are synthetic rather than from food sources. Although the synthetic vs. food-source debate continues to be lively, a growing number of researchers and nutritionists have found that food-source vitamins are more effective at smaller doses because they are more easily assimilated than synthetic vitamins.

Dogs fed a home-prepared diet derive far more than vitamins A and D from cod liver oil, which is itself an argument for home feeding. Another argument is Sir Edward Mellanby’s canine rickets experiment. During his research, Mellanby discovered that phytic acid in grains and legumes blocks mineral absorption. Grain-based foods can be difficult for dogs to digest, and can contribute to deficiencies of zinc and other minerals.

Before deciding on the dose to use, consider how much sun exposure your dog receives, the time of year, and your location. Dogs who live outdoors in the southern United States may absorb vitamin D by grooming themselves and other dogs, even though they do not absorb it directly through the skin the way humans do.

In America’s middle latitudes, the sun does not produce vitamin D throughout the year. For example, in New York City, the sun’s angle prevents vitamin D production from October through April. Dogs who live outdoors during summer months in New York City and similar latitudes may need less (such as half the recommended dose) during the summer. Dogs living in New England, other Northern states, and Canada receive little or no vitamin D from the sun even in the middle of summer. They will not require a dose reduction.

Vitamins D and A are toxic in excess, so overdoses must be avoided. Many puppies and dogs have died from swallowing tubes of vitamin D-based medications for psoriasis and other human skin conditions. If you spill cod liver oil, don’t let your dog lick it up. If you feed a commercial pet food that contains vitamins A and D, don’t give your dog cod liver oil in addition.

Last, feed saturated fats like butter or coconut oil in combination with cod liver oil. The body needs saturated fat in order to absorb and assimilate the fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K). Flaxseed oil and other vegetable oils do not provide saturated fats and do not enhance the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins. An easy rule of thumb is to give equal amounts of cod liver oil and saturated fat, so for every teaspoon of cod liver oil, give your dog a teaspoon (or more) of butter or coconut oil.

A regular contributor to WDJ, CJ Puotinen is also the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats, and several books about human health including, Natural Relief from Aches and Pains.

Holistic Veterinarians Discuss Holistic Healing

By Randy Kidd, DVM, PHD My dog has Qi; your dog has Qi; all God’s creatures have Qi. In fact, the earth below, the heavens above, and the entire universe around us has Qi. More than energy, more than air, more than life itself, Qi is an ever-present essence that gives us, our animal comrades, and our surrounding environment the vitality we call life. Qi, pronounced “chee,” is also spelled chi or ch’i. In Japanese, it is expressed as Ki. Prana is Qi’s sister from India, and some of the other “relatives” of Qi include the “vital force” of homeopathy, chiropractic’s “innate,” and Wilhelm Reich’s “orgone.” Some people relate Christianity’s concept of the soul or spirit to Qi. Qi may be the most important health-maintenance component for any animal’s well-being. When you evaluate an animal’s Qi, not only are you given an accurate assessment of overall health, you can also pinpoint specific areas of the body where Qi needs to be moved around, supported, or “tamed down.” When you understand Qi, you can, with some practice, learn how to manipulate it to heal the sick, and you can learn how to accumulate it in your own body in order to enhance personal health . . . or to use as projected Qi for healing others. Qi is a moving force. According to Chinese medicine, it circulates through body channels (meridians) in a predictable, cyclic fashion throughout the day. These meridians are connected to inner organs, which are in turn supported by the healthy circulation of Qi. Disease results whenever there is a blockage or abnormal flow of the Qi, or whenever the overall Qi is either excessive or deficient. Acupuncturists use needles (and herbs) to move Qi along the meridians and into organ systems to help bring the body into a balanced state of Qi. People the world over practice Qi-enhancing forms of moving- or sitting-meditation (such as qigong, tai qi, or yoga). Qigong healing practitioners accumulate their own Qi, which they project to others for its healing powers. Finally, because the ultimate purpose of creating a healthy balance of Qi in the body is to merge the physical body with Earth Qi and Heaven Qi, Qi balancing is the way of returning an animal’s physiology to a healthy union with its environment. How to recognize Qi As a holistic veterinarian, I watch intently as a dog walks from the waiting room into the exam room; I want to see how much vital Qi there is within and around the animal as he or she enters. Take it from this old skeptic: You don’t have to be a psychic or an inscrutable one with Oriental heritage to feel Qi, and the effects of well-balanced Qi are easy to see if you know what to look for. The look of Qi is, in a word, “radiance.” It is expressed primarily through an animal’s eyes – the appearance of bright, shiny, alert eyes; the look of aliveness; the inner focus of vibrant “animal-ness” beaming outward as rays of energetic intensity. Healthy Qi is also expressed in the general appearance of the dog: a bright and shiny hair coat, a head-held-high posture of self-confidence, the jaunty gait of an animal with a purpose. The feeling of Qi may present as a different sensation – depending on its quality at the time and the skill level of the examiner, but Qi is easy to feel, so long as you feel with your fingertips as they are connected with your heart, and so long as you don’t let your mind interfere with the sensations. Qi most often has a tingly quality, but sometimes a healthy flow of Qi creates a feeling of added heat; a lack or imbalance or blockage of Qi may be felt as an area that feels cool, relative to the rest of the body. Perhaps the easiest way to feel your own Qi is to bend your elbows so your hands are facing each other about shoulder width apart at a level slightly below your belly button. Imagine you are holding a lightly filled balloon between your hands, and gently bounce the air within the balloon. The naturally repelling force you feel, the gentle energetic bounce, the tingle is Qi. For years I have asked “normal” Kansans to run their hands over their own pet’s back and to stop wherever they sense something different from the rest of the body. Invariably they stop at the same point I have already recognized as having some difference in energetic (Qi) sensation. Then they’ll often be apologetic, saying something like, “But I’m no good at this sort of thing. I don’t know if I’m really feeling anything, or if I’m just imagining it.” As a scientific observation, I think it is significant that, even in this culture, where we have a tendency to question our innate abilities to feel anything we cannot see (i.e., in a culture of disbelievers), the sensation of Qi is a highly reproducible phenomenon, even for folks without advanced training. Explainable, or not There may be a physical equivalent of Qi, but it is more than blood, enzymes, and brain chemistry; it is more closely related to the body’s functionality, the physiological coherence between mind and body, a coherence that creates a healthily functioning physiology. Part of this functionality can be explained biochemically. Acupuncture, acupressure, or Qigong treatments enhance the production of endorphins, measurable biochemicals that ease pain and cause a general feeling of well-being, much like the “runner’s high” or like the feeling one gets after eating chocolate. Improved functionality may also be explained by the accepted concepts of biofields. Western medicine uses bioelectricity to diagnose and monitor heart (EKG) and brain (EEG) function. Master Qigong practitioners can create bioelectrical surges that are 10,000 times those recorded on EKG and 100,000 times those recorded on EEG – definite validation of “some type” of force, the force Traditional Chinese practitioners would call Qi. The ability of Qi practitioners to heal patients from afar is a well-proven phenomena, and the understanding of the Chinese (and many other cultures) that a person’s Qi and therefore his being extends well beyond his fingertips are two examples for how we will need to extend our current concepts of the person’s being. To fully explain the concepts of balanced and healthy functionality, we may need to go beyond some of the outdated concepts of Western medicine into other fields of well-accepted science. These fields are currently being explored by many respected scientists (see sidebar below). We veterinarians simply need to catch up with the new science of today. Building and balancing Qi Working with Qi is easier than most folks realize. The underlying idea is to create an environment where a dog (or person) can enhance and balance his own healthy Qi. The best way to do this is slowly and gradually, day by day. Dramatic Qi-balancing methods such as acupuncture are reserved for the times when absolutely necessary, and these times should be few and far between. There are several aspects to consider when building and balancing Qi, including: • Initial Qi: Puppies receive this Qi from their parents. It is a puppy’s energetic raw material to work with throughout his life. As a puppy ages, he gradually uses up whatever Initial Qi he was given, and our objective is to try to slow down this depletion by continually adding health-enhancing Qi. Thus, it is extremely important to select pups who have been given a healthy dose of Initial Qi – puppies who are active; who look and feel energetic, bright, and alert; who have a happy puppy swagger; and whose parents also have obvious amounts of healthy Qi. • Qi Chang Gong: Your dog’s best chance to develop Qi health is to be continually bathed in positive and balanced Qi, and this can easily be accomplished in any home environment. For millennia the Chinese have understood the tremendously beneficial effects of practicing Qi-enhancement in groups (called Qi Chang Gong). Anywhere there exists an Oriental population you’ll see folks practicing Tai Chi or qigong, often in groups congregated in a local park. This group practice works with the idea that Qi and its field of influence is limitless, and practitioners work together to create a group-generated healing field. You can duplicate this Qi Chang Gong effect in your home; simply learn a Qi-enhancing form or meditation, and practice it daily. Your dog doesn’t need to learn Tai Chi, nor does he even need to be there in the room as you practice; he can actually be anywhere nearby to receive many of the same benefits you will reap for yourself. • Enhancing Qi: After soaking your dog’s environment with your own healthy Qi, your next step is to make absolutely certain you are letting your dog be a dog. Then, when you’ve made it possible for her to be a dog, help her be a dog with a mission. In Chinese terms, this is letting the physical Qi unite with the Heavenly Qi, which can be thought of as our spiritual reason for being here on earth. There’s nothing happier (and more Qi-full) than a Border Collie who is able to spend much of her time actually herding sheep, and nothing any sadder (and more Qi-depleted) than a retriever who has never seen the water. Daily exercise also enhances Qi, especially a nice, long, slow walk or trot several times a day, preferably over a surface where your dog can actually make direct contact with the Qi of the Earth. Qi practitioners feel that the best time to receive Heaven Qi is at sunrise, and my personal experience would indicate that greeting the sun every morning adds vitality to the spirit and soul – to say nothing of the positive benefits it has for energizing the pineal gland, the master gland of the body’s hormonal system and the gland that is directly affected by sunlight. Since, like us, our dogs are what they eat, their Qi depends on the vitality of their food – high quality, non-processed food that is as similar as possible to what a canine in the wild would eat. And, if it is good to develop your personal Qi to help your dog enhance his own, it is even better to make sure he can feel the connection between his heart/mind and yours – a simple process of opening your heart energy to his, a simple act of letting love happen. Qi depletion There are a number of things in our world that deplete Qi, among them: processed, poor quality foods loaded with preservatives and artificial colors and flavors; a whole litany of household toxins; loud noises and the perpetual frenzy associated with families on the go; constant exposure to bright, artificial lights; an overzealous use of vaccines or antibiotics; and a life spent running on and surrounded by concrete. The stress of a dog trying to be something other than a dog is Qi-depleting, as is any environment where the dog is not recognized as being an integral part of the “pack of the family.” Finally, in the terms of Chinese Medicine, most of today’s so called “chronic diseases” are considered to be caused by an imbalance of Qi – an excess or scattering of Qi (evidenced in aggressive behavior or separation anxiety), or a blockage of Qi at some specific point in the body (as seen with diseases such as arthritis or cancer). The point is this: In our everyday world, a dog will inevitably be exposed to various and sundry “Qi depletors.” Most of the Qi depletors are unavoidable and not what we would consider life-threatening. Rather, their effects on Qi are slow and insidious and they tend to be cumulative, ultimately leading to the increased likelihood of chronic disease. As your dog’s guardian, your best course of action is to make it your discipline to enhance, accumulate, and project healthy Qi on a daily basis. Pick your battles As a hard-core scientist, I’m willing to accept Qi at face value, because I can feel something with my fingertips, even though I’m not exactly sure what it is I feel; because I see results when I manipulate it with acupuncture needles; because my own Tai Qi and Qigong practices have healed me from diseases where Western medicine had failed miserably; and because the accumulation of Qi I have gained from my daily practices have made me feel healthier at age 60 than I ever did previously. I actually feel that arguing the presence of Qi is a colossal waste of time; I am much more interested in what I can do with the Qi I have to help reconnect the human spirit, through their pets, to the soul of nature. I’m convinced this is where the “Next Medicine” will be applied; to my way of thinking we have already gone far beyond merely worrying about the scientific proof of the existence of Qi. ———- Dr. Randy Kidd has a DVM degree from Ohio State University and a Ph.D. in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. He is a past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, and author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

Acupressure Improves Your Dog’s Digestion

[Updated August 22, 2018]

If not for their dinner bowls, dogs would still be wolves. In many ways our devoted, domesticated dogs are still wolves, especially when it comes to their digestion. In the past 10 years, holistically oriented guardians and healthcare practitioners have become proponents of fresh food diets plus supplements for dogs. There are many authoritative books, journals, and magazines that are doing their best to raise the consciousness of the general public about the health issues associated with manufactured dog foods.

Has anyone seen a canine in the wild strike a match, set a fire, and roast his food? There is a simple reason why we have never seen a dog cook his food: most dogs do not need cooked food. Usually, their digestive tracts do all the “cooking” necessary to make the nutrients from the food bio-available. But not all dogs are able to digest a raw diet; some dogs function better with home-cooked food. The goal is to provide our canines with high quality food from which they can derive absorbable nutrients.

In Traditional Chinese Medicine, the stomach, spleen, and liver are responsible for the initial “ripening and rotting” of food and its transformation into nutrient-rich blood and chi (also seen as Qi, pronounced “chee”) or life-promoting energy, and transporting them throughout the body.

When a dog digests his food and absorbs nutrients properly, his eyes are bright, his energy is good, his coat appears healthy, and he has a general vitality and attitude that we interpret as being a healthy dog.

Unfortunately, nutrient deficiencies and unnecessary food additives in processed food can cause severe health problems that are not readily seen in the short term. As the dog’s system becomes compromised due to poor quality food, age, insufficient or excessive exercise, and exposure to environmental toxins, his body will lose its resilience. An overburdened system will become imbalanced and give way to disease.

The first line of defense against ill health for your dog is the quality of fresh food he eats, along with all the other aspects of a healthy lifestyle, including a balance of rest and exercise, play, and focused training or work, plus human and canine companionship.

Restoring Your Dog’s Chi Balance

However, even with attention to his diet and all the lifestyle ingredients of a healthy dog life, there are times when a dog has an upset stomach or is not able to process and absorb his food.

When you see that your dog has a digestive problem, you can give him an acupressure treatment that will gently help restore the balance of chi within his body. Note: Bloat, whether caused by a blockage or stomach torsion, is a life-threatening condition. Seek veterinary care immediately if your dog displays the signs of bloat, especially immediately after eating: abdominal distention, depression, retching without vomiting, and excessive salivation. Holistic veterinary care is also indicated if the dog exhibits a loss of appetite, excessive appetite, gas, diarrhea, constipation, loose or hard stools, stools that have no odor or an extremely putrid odor, stools with undigested pieces of food, and lethargy that lasts for more than a few days.

It can be insidious, but any change in your dog’s appearance or behavior may have a connection to the health and balance of his digestion system. His hair is a good indicator of the health of blood and the circulation of blood and chi. Check your dog’s coat for excessive dryness or stickiness, loss of hair, or color change. These can be indicators for the need to support the spleen’s ability to function optimally. If your dog’s behavior shifts and he becomes aggressive, overly timid, erratic, or unable to focus during training, he may be experiencing an imbalance of stomach and liver chi.

The acupressure treatment described below is designed to help restore and maintain balance within the dog’s body, with special attention to improving his capacity to digest and circulate food nutrients and nutrient chi. Most dogs are chow hounds – they eat anything and everything we feed them. Give them the opportunity to make the best of every morsel.

A Short Acupressure Session for Canine Digestion

Start by finding a comfortable location for you and your dog where it is calm and you both can relax. Slowly, take three even breaths in and out. Think about how you want to help your dog feel better; taking a moment to formulate the intent of your treatment is very important.

dog acupressure points for digestion

Begin the treatment by resting one hand near your dog’s shoulder. Using the heel of your other hand, place it at the top of your dog’s head and gently stroke down his neck, just off the midline, following the Bladder meridian (illustration). Continue stroking down to the hindquarters staying to the side of the midline. To finish, stroke down the outside of his leg to his paw. Your opposite hand can trail along the same path touching the dog lightly. Repeat this intentional stroking procedure three times on each side of your dog.

Using the acupressure points illustrated (see below), start the point work segment of the treatment. Rest one hand on your dog, wherever it is comfortable. You perform the actual point work with the other hand. Use either your thumb or two fingers, depending on what is most comfortable for you.

• Thumb technique: Place the tip of your thumb directly on the acupressure point (also called “acupoint”) at a 90 degree angle. Hold the point gently, but with intent, for about three to eight seconds.

• Two-finger technique: Put your middle finger on top of your index finger and then place your index finger at a 90 degree angle gently, but with intentional firmness, directly on the acupressure point for about three to eight seconds.

dog bladder meridian

The following points help relieve gastrointestinal problems and improve digestion:

POINT TRADITIONAL NAME LOCATION
St 36 Leg 3 Miles On the lateral aspect of the hind leg, about ½ – 2 inches below the knee.
CV 12 Center of Power Midway between the sternum and navel, on the ventral (underside) midline.
Sp 6 3 Yin Meeting Medial aspect of the hind leg, above the hock along the groove of the tibia.
Liv 3 Supreme Rushing Medial aspect of hind leg, in the valley between the first and second metatarsal bones.
St 45 Evil’s Dissipation At the nail bed of the hind paw, on the medial aspect of the third digit.
GB 41 Foot Above Tears At the top of the hind paw in the valley where the fourth and fifth metatarsal bones meet.

Watch your dog’s reaction to the point work. Healthy energy releases include yawning, deep breathing, muscle twitches, release of air, and softening of the eye. If your dog overreacts to a particular point or exhibits a pain reaction, work the acupoint in front of the reactive point or behind it. Try that point again at a later session.

To complete your treatment, trace the Bladder meridian just the way you did at the beginning of the treatment. Rest your hand comfortably on his shoulder and place the heel of your other hand just off midline of the top of his head and stoke down his neck, over his back to his hindquarters, keeping your hand to the side of his spine and down the outside of his leg. Your opposite hand can lightly trail along the same path the working hand. Repeat this procedure three times on each side of your dog.

It can take 24 hours for the dog to experience the healing effects of an acupressure treatment. Occasionally, the initial issue can seem to be worse during that time before it resolves. Repeat this treatment every third day until your dog is well and weekly after that.

OVERVIEW

1. Feed your dog the healthiest diet you can. The optimum diet consists of home-prepared fresh foods.

2. If your dog has digestive problems, consider all the possible contributors, including his stress levels, environment, exposure to toxins, and relationships. Improve what you can.

3. Use the acupressure described here to help stimulate your dog’s own healing abilities.


Nancy Zidonis and Amy Snow are the authors of, The Well-Connected Dog: A Guide to Canine Acupressure. They own Tallgrass Publishers, which offers meridian charts for dogs and other companion animals. They also provide training courses worldwide.

Some Great Leash-Walking Products

By Pat Miller

We dog-affiliated humans are on an eternal search for the Holy Grail: a training tool that will teach a dog to walk politely on leash. Each year, one or two new products appear on the market claiming to have found the elusive answer. This year is no exception. We found two that offered concepts that are significantly new, different, and worth reviewing. One we love. One we don’t.

For the most part, new leash-walking products disappoint, promising far more than they can deliver. This is largely due to the misleading impression presented by promotional materials that the product itself teaches the dog to walk politely.

In fact, most of the “no-pull” products do provide varying degrees of leverage against the dog’s pulling strength. They don’t, however, train the dog all by themselves; they provide a window of opportunity for the human to train the dog to walk nicely. If the handler fails to take advantage of the training opportunity, many dogs learn to pull through or ignore some products’ anti-pull features. With some products, absent training, the tool can be used to manage polite leash walking, but if the dog is returned to a flat collar, the pulling likely resumes.

The best leash-walking products are effective in helping the owner train the dog not to pull (that is, they provide a large enough window of opportunity for the owner to successfully train the desired walking behavior), minimally aversive to the dog, easy to use, well-made, and affordable. (We put price last, since most owners of leash-pulling dogs would pay almost anything for a product that really helps them!)

Generally, the owner’s goal is to eventually transition the dog to polite walking on a flat collar. In some cases, however, canine and human are both perfectly happy using the extra equipment to achieve an easy walk around the block. For the dog and owner whose walking needs are happily met by the equipment, there is nothing wrong with continuing to use a leash-walking product as a management tool.

Formerly, our sole selection
Our favorite aide to polite leash-walking has long been the head halter, also known as the head collar, with the Gentle Leader our top brand choice. (See “Head Halters, Right and Wrong” in the June 2000 issue for a complete review of available halters and information on how to best utilize them.)

Generally, a halter (and the Gentle Leader, specifically) operates in two ways. First, because it is positioned on the dog’s head similar to a horse’s halter, when the dog pulls on leash, pressure is applied to the back of his neck and the bridge of his nose, rather than his throat. This definitely reduces the dog’s inclination to romp and pull.

Second, because the leash attaches under the dog’s muzzle, the pressure also turns the dog’s head back toward his handler, interrupting his visual contact with whatever may be exciting him, and reorienting him to his handler. The person then has the opportunity to “mark” (with the Click! of a clicker, the word “Yes!” or other reliably reproduced signal) and reinforce (reward) that desirable behavior, which enhances the training aspect of the tool.

Halters are an effective and humane tool for many dogs who are otherwise difficult to control on leash, but they are not a panacea for all dogs who frustrate their owners when on leash. Some dogs resist their halters, sometimes violently, even when a gradual shaping process is used to acclimate the dog to the feel of the straps and pressure on her face. For dogs who resist all attempts at acclimation, a halter is a very aversive tool, and should not be used.

Head halters can also be challenging to put on, especially with a very active dog and when the owner has limited mobility. (People with limited mobility are often among those who can most benefit from a tool that will assist with leash walking.)

In contrast, for dogs who accept them, halters can be a highly effective leash-walking product, either as a transition tool to polite leash walking, or as a long-term management solution. A handler who is committed to training and eventually weaning the dog from a halter can do so. The halter’s ability to reorient a dog back to her owner provides excellent training opportunities. The ability to control the dog’s head also makes it a very useful tool for management and modification of aggressive behavior.

Our new favorite
I was pleasantly surprised – thrilled, actually – by the newest entry onto the no-pull product scene. Like the Gentle Leader halter, the SENSE-ation Harness works on the restraint/reorientation principle – the physical ability of the product to turn the dog back toward the handler.

It is also surprisingly simple to use; the harness slips over the dog’s head and buckles under his chest – he doesn’t even have to step into it. The leash attaches to a ring at the front of the dog’s chest, which allows for the reorienting effect. The side straps are attached lower than on most regular dog harnesses, so, if the dog pulls, the pressure against his shoulders helps to reorient him to the handler.

Unlike halters, the SENSE-ation Harness does not trigger immediate resistance from most dogs. In fact, resistance to the harness appears to be virtually nonexistent. Every dog I have used it on has accepted it immediately; I haven’t needed to acclimate any dog to its use.

My first test subject was a humane society ward, a large, intact male Doberman with an unknown history. He was presented to me as a demonstration dog at a seminar, wearing a flat collar and dragging his handler around the grounds. Even though I had braced myself, when I took the leash I was promptly pulled off balance. When I put the SENSE-ation Harness on him I could immediately control the big, strong dog with one hand. I have had the same effect with every dog with whom I have used the harness.

The SENSE-ation Harness can be used with good results either as a transition tool while training polite leash walking, or as a long-term management solution. It does not reorient a dog to his handler as dramatically as a head halter can, but it can accomplish this effectively without noticeable resistance from the dog. It does not, however, control the dog’s head, which makes it a less useful tool than the head halter for modification of aggressive behavior.

Fitting the harness can be a little tricky – it tends to gap in front when the dog pulls unless the side straps are very snug. I suggest lining the straps under the armpits with a soft material to avoid chafing. The nylon material and hardware seems to be of high-quality, and the maker offers a good range of sizes. I’d like to see a wider selection of colors, but that’s quibbling.

Another average product
The other new no-pull product we tested was more like the average no-pull device – that is, depending strictly on restraining the dog in a way that provides a physical advantage to the handler. The BonaFido Training/Restraining Leash consists of a round nylon rope that loops around the dog’s chest behind the shoulders and attaches to the flat collar. When the dog pulls, the leash tightens around his body. When he stops pulling, the pressure around his barrel eases.

The restraint principle is the same as that used for most other no-pull harnesses (SENSE-ation harness excepted) such as the Sporn Halter (actually a harness, not a halter) previously reviewed by WDJ (see “No Miracle Products,” April 2001). The BonaFido has the advantage of being much simpler than its predecessors – no complicated straps or lines to loop over and through various canine body parts, so it’s easy to put on the dog – and for that, we liked it. Also, dogs accepted it without resistance, and it worked reasonably well with medium-strength pullers.

However, the BonaFido was less effective with strong pullers, and the attractive, round nylon rope slips through your hands when used with especially strong-pulling dogs (and isn’t that what it’s designed for?). The loop handle is virtually useless without a product they call the “SoftHandle” (sold separately), so the manufacturer might as well build that feature (and the price) into the basic model. (The “SoftHandle” is actually made by another company and is called the “Master Grrrip.”)

While the handle makes it possible to hold the BonaFido without pain, we found it bulky and cumbersome to hold, especially at the same time as a clicker, treats, and other training tools. Finally, in our tests, the body loop has a tendency to slip back from its intended position immediately behind the dog’s elbows, which reduces the effectiveness of the product’s action. We think the concept has promise, but the execution needs some work.

On the plus side, the material seems to be of good quality, and the hardware appears adequate. The product is available in a nice selection of sizes and colors.

———-

Pat Miller, WDJ’s Training Editor, is a Certified Pet Dog Trainer, and president of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. She is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training,and the just-released book Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

 

On The Road

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-By Nancy Kerns

My friend Jamie’s family is even more dog-crazy than my own. They obsess over the expressions on their dogs’ faces, I swear. I like to tease them about it. “Mark, stop the car! Pull over! Junior looks sad!”

So when Fran, Jamie’s mother, recently broke her leg, it didn’t surprise me that one of her family’s biggest worries was Fran’s little dog. Even in the ambulance, Fran’s main concern was finding someone to take care of Nori. Her hairdresser offered to take the dog to his home, where he and his wife have a small pet sitting business. That was great, but Fran wanted Nori to be with family as soon as possible.

When Jamie called me tell me the news, I offered to help her drive to Southern California to pick up Nori. I had heard a lot about the little dog, whom Fran had picked out from a shelter after her husband and their old dog had died. Nori was described by shelter staff as a Corgi/Pomeranian cross, but that’s a wild guess. She’s short-legged, with a thick black coat, and soft almond-shaped eyes.

Jamie and her brother Mark live in separate flats in a San Francisco Victorian. Mark has two big dogs and Jamie has another. The three dogs spend each day together, running up and down the back stairs of the Victorian, freely accessing the backyard and both flats. One more dog in the pack would hardly be noticed for a few weeks while Fran convalesced.

My own dog sitter was unavailable, so I asked Jamie if we could bring Mokie, my Chihuahua, with us. She didn’t mind, which made me feel bad, since I secretly hoped she wouldn’t bring her dog. He’s a giant-sized Wire-Haired Pointer whose beard is always wet. I didn’t relish the idea of 16 hours in the car with him hulking over my shoulder from the back seat. (Oh my goodness! I’m turning into a “little dog” person!) Fortunately for me, Jamie decided her dog wouldn’t enjoy that much time in the car, and left him with Mark.

After a long drive and a brief visit with Fran in the hospital, we went to collect Nori at Fran’s hairdresser’s home. Jack and his wife welcomed us in and regaled us with the life stories of each of their four dogs and four cats, all rescues. They also refused payment for their professional care, saying they were happy to help. What caring, generous people.

The next morning, Jamie visited Fran again while I walked the dogs around the hospital parking lot. Then we hit the highway for the 450-mile trip home.Back at Mark and Jamie’s house, with Mokie on my lap, and little Nori already bossing the three big perplexed male dogs, we called Fran. “I’m so glad Nori’s with you,” she said. “Now I can rest.” We all knew how she felt.

Our dogs are important.

Herbal Remedies for Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD)

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Despite a ravenous appetite, Zack the Australian Shepherd becomes ill when he tries to eat a regular meal. A year ago he was chubby, but now his ribs show through a perpetually shedding coat of dull, dry fur. Zack’s bowel movements are irregular, too. Last week he had diarrhea, but today he is constipated. He might not go potty again for several days, and when he finally does, his elimination will probably be strained, his stool covered with mucus and streaked with blood. Like thousands of other dogs, Zack suffers from a concurrence of symptoms known as inflammatory bowel disease, or IBD. All cases of IBD share one sign – chronic inflammation in the intestinal tract – but no two cases are identical. Common symptoms include diarrhea, labored or painful bowel movements, gastric distention, rectal bleeding, and mucus discharge. Inexplicable weight loss, indigestion, vomiting, and even chronic flatulence may also point to IBD. Because the causes of IBD are often multi-faceted and difficult to pinpoint, finding an effective treatment for the disease can be challenging – for even the most experienced veterinarian. Immune system disorders, circulatory impairment in the intestinal tract, parasitic infections, defects in permeability of the intestinal wall, dietary sensitivities or food allergies, adverse drug reactions (such as with large doses of aspirin), and prolonged use of antibiotic or antiparasitic drugs are among the many possible causes and contributing factors. Conventional approaches to inflammatory bowel disease often involve a controlled diet of highly digestible foods that are rich in supplemental dietary fiber. Often, cortico-steroid drugs (such as Prednisone) and other immunosuppressive drugs are prescribed to rapidly reduce pain and inflammation. These drugs may bring fast, temporary relief from painful symptoms, but they can be risky, especially if employed long-term. Corticosteroid drugs work their magic by inhibiting the immune functions that trigger inflammation – meaning they work against the body’s innate defense mechanisms. During the time that the inflammatory response is shut down, the underlying causes of IBD remain unchecked. And because IBD is often linked to preexisting immune system dysfunction in the first place, long-term corticosteroid therapies can actually add to the complication of an already complex state of immune-mediated disease.

Change Your Dog’s Diet First

Rather than focusing on the symptoms of IBD, the holistic herbalist’s approach centers on identifying and correcting underlying imbalances and influences that may cause or contribute to IBD. The first step is to optimize the diet for maximum digestion and improved waste elimination. Poor quality food ingredients and fillers, such as meat by-products, corn, wheat hulls, and other grains, should be replaced with a home-prepared diet of fresh meats and vegetables. At the very least, bargain brand foods should be replaced with a premium quality canned food or kibble. Food allergies or intolerances are often at the root of IBD. Therefore, the dog’s diet should be critically assessed for possible food culprits. Start by eliminating preservatives, artificial colorings and flavorings, and anything thing else not recognizable as “good, healthy food” from the food dish. Bring the diet to life. Digestive enzymes and a probiotic (beneficial bacteria) supplement are strongly indicated for the IBD sufferer, as these measures will aid digestion, absorption of nutrients, and efficient waste elimination. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for how much to feed. Many dogs with IBD will make a special effort to eat grass. I see this as a normal, intuitive effort to provide the digestive tract with the long fiber that is needed to cleanse and nourish the stomach and colon. Provided the grass is clean, green, and tender, this behavior should probably be honored. However, keep a close eye on exactly what he eats; some types of wild grasses are very tough and difficult to digest, and can add to the irritation of IBD. Likewise, it is important to make certain that the grass your companion eats has not been sprayed with herbicide or any other type of lawn care chemical. If your dog insists on eating every blade of grass in sight, try buying some live wheatgrass from the health food store and placing the container next to his food dish. Just be aware that his inner cleansing program might include vomiting and regurgitation. Also consider adding a pinch of finely ground flax seed or psyllium husks to each meal, as this will help soften the stool and ease passage of rough particles. An assortment of other supplements may also be useful toward healing and strengthening mucous tissues in the intestines. These include N-acetyl glucosamine, glutamine, proanthocyanidin complex, dimethylglycine, and vitamin C (calcium ascorbate). Consult your veterinarian to determine which ones may be appropriate for your dog.

Environmental Causes of IBD in Dogs

Toxic chemicals – such as lawn fertilizers, floor cleaners, harsh laundry detergents, pesticides, and motor oil – should be removed from your dog’s environment. Remember, as your dog walks, rolls, and plays in her environment, she picks up whatever residues exist there, and then licks it off her feet and coat. Although invisible and odorless, chemical residues may alter the functional abilities of mucous membranes and adversely affect beneficial bacteria that protect and serve digestive functions in the gut. Use of oral antibiotics should be critically reconsidered and discussed with your veterinarian, as these drugs may inhibit reproduction and the protective capacities of beneficial bacteria in the intestine. Vaccinations should also be reevaluated, as they can have adverse effects upon the immune system – especially one that is already stressed or dysfunctional.

A Formula for Dogs With Inflammatory Bowel Disease

Combine the following teas, tinctures, or dried herbs: ■ 2 parts marshmallow root ■ 1 part slippery elm (powdered inner bark) ■ 1 part plantain leaf ■ 1 part licorice root Dogs over 30 lbs: 1 tablespoon of the dried, powdered herbs, or 1 ml of a low-alcohol tincture combination fed twice daily. For smaller dogs, cut these measures in half. EDITOR’S NOTE: Author Greg Tilford is CEO of Animal’s Apawthecary, a manufacturer of glycerin-based herbal tinctures for animals. Animal’s Apawthecary does make a commercial product (“Phyto-mucil”) formulated to these specifications. However, Tilford stresses that interested dog owners can easily prepare the formula themselves, using fresh or dried organic herbs.

Herbs for IBD Relief, Explained

The symptoms of inflammatory bowel syndrome can often be relieved with the use of herbs that reduce inflammation and help lubricate, nourish, and promote healing of mucous membranes. At the very top of my list of favorites is a combination formula of marshmallow root, slippery elm bark, plantain leaf, and licorice root. I use this formula in an alcohol-free, glycerin-based tincture, but it can be used in powder form as well. The main component of this formula is marshmallow root (Althea officinalis). Marshmallow root is rich with mucilage – a gooey, slippery, water-soluble substance that has a consistency similar to gear oil. While it is being digested, this mucilage helps nourish intestinal flora while providing a soothing, lubricating, protective barrier between inflamed mucous membranes and food materials that are moving through the intestine. Marshmallow root may also help fight infection, as the herb is active against pathogens such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Proteus vulgaris, and Staphylococcus aureus. Marshmallow also stimulates the activities of fixed macrophages – immune warriors that serve as a first line of defense in the gut. Slippery elm (Ulmus fulva), the second herb in my IBD formula, is also rich with nutrient-rich mucilage, but it also possesses an assortment of starches and tannin constituents that offer mild astringent qualities. This serves to moderate the excess transport of fluids across intestinal barriers while providing an added measure of lubrication for improved stool elimination. In other words, slippery elm can help reduce diarrhea, which is caused by excess fluid entering the intestine, and can also help relieve the opposite – constipation. Plaintain leaf (Plantago spp.), the third component of the formula, is a ubiquitous weed with dark green, fibrous leaves. It also contains mucilage and tannin constituents, and is often used by herbalists as an earth-friendly alternative to slippery elm. However, plantain leaf provides measures of systemic support that slippery elm and marshmallow root cannot; it is loaded with antioxidant chlorophyll, fiber, and a very rich assortment of vitamins and minerals, all of which are beneficial in the healing and maintenance of mucous membranes and healthy flora. Finally, to round out my favorite herbal formula for IBD, a measure of licorice root (Glycyrhizza glabra) is added. Licorice root is well known by herbalists as a powerful anti-inflammatory, immune stimulant, vulnerary (speeds healing), antimicrobial herbal medicine that is remarkably effective in the digestive tract. It is especially useful for healing ulceration of the stomach and reducing the gastric acid secretions that often contribute to the severity of ulcers and IBD. Part of licorice’s amazing healing ability in the gut can be attributed to its glycyrrhizin content. Glycyrrhizin’s chemical structure is similar to anti-inflammatory corticoids that are naturally produced in the body. The herb contains several other saponin constituents, as well. These soap-like compounds are capable of penetrating deep into mucous membranes to allow better transport of vital nutrients across impaired mucosal barriers and into the body system, where they are needed. This penetrating action also aids in the delivery of other medicinal components of the IBD formula. Although long-term use of licorice root extract may carry adverse side effects of water retention and elevated blood pressure, this is seldom a worry in cases where the herb is used as a small component of a multi-herb formula like this one.

IRRITABLE BOWEL DISEASE IN DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Improve your dog’s diet. Look for foods he digests easily, avoiding those containing artificial preservatives and colors, and grainbased fillers. 2. Improve digestion and waste elimination with probiotic and enzyme supplements. 3. Talk to a holistic vet about alternatives to conventional wormers and antibiotics. Ask for a reassessment of your dog’s vaccination program. 4. Do not feed rawhide chews, baked bones, or any type of treat that contains smoke flavoring — all of these can irritate inflamed mucous membranes. 5. Clean up your dog’s living and playing environments. Prohibit grass-eating from areas that may have been sprayed with chemical fertilizers or herbicides. 6. If your dog’s daily raw bone causes IBD flare-ups, replace it with a finely powdered calcium supplement added to wet food. This will be much less irritating and easier for him to digest and absorb. Greg Tilford serves as a consultant and formulator to hundreds of holistic veterinarians throughout the world, and is CEO of Animal’s Apawthecary, a company that develops herbal products specifically for use in animals. Tilford is also author of four books on herbal medicine, including All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets, (Bowtie, 1999).

Can Dogs Have ADHD?

Dogs can have ADHD, or a canine equivalent. However, this is overdiagnosed.
Hyperkinesis in dogs is roughly equivalent to ADHD in humans. However, it is over diagnosed. With many dogs bred to have high energy and vigilance or poorly socialized dog being diagnosed as hyperactive.

ADHD in Dogs: Overview

  1. Evaluate your dog carefully to determine if he is truly hyper-active, or just has a “normal” amount of high energy.
  2. Seek veterinary assistance if he is truly hyperactive; you may need to use medication in conjunction with a positive behavior modification program.
  3. Provide a structured environment and maximize his opportunities for exercise, training, and socialization. Feed your dog a good quality, low protein, non-allergenic, additive-free diet.

A disconcerting number of my clients preface the explanation of their dogs’ undesirable behaviors with the pronouncement, “He is really hyper!” The vast majority of the time, they have perfectly normal dogs. The explosion of apparently “hyper” dogs in our world can be traced to several factors:

• The popularity of breeds that are (when well-bred) genetically programmed to have enhanced environmental alertness, vigilance, and high activity levels. While high activity levels are distributed across all breeds (I am personally acquainted with a high-energy Basset Hound), they are especially prevalent in the sporting breeds (Labradors Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, etc.) and herding breeds (Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, etc.).

• The puppy-milling and retail sale of those popular breeds that results in poorly bred, poorly socialized pups ending up in the hands of owners underprepared to care for and train them.

• Unreasonable expectations of dog behavior by owners who have a poor understanding of their dogs’ needs and behaviors, which results in…

• Lack of adequate exercise and socialization.

Can Dogs Have ADHD? Yes, but it’s Over Diagnosed

That said, hyperactivity does exist in dogs. It is, however, greatly over diagnosed. Hyperactivity, otherwise known as “hyperkinesis,” can be defined as dogs who display frenetic activity, abnormally short attention spans, and high impulsiveness. They can also demonstrate overbearing attention-seeking behavior. It is truly a canine form of Attention Deficit Hyper-activity Disorder (ADHD). Like some children who are prescribed Ritalin or some other stimulant, it seems that some dogs who are truly hyperkinetic can benefit from the administration of stimulants to help them focus and pay attention.

What differentiates a normal, high-energy dog from one who has ADHD? Dogs with ADHD demonstrate exceptionally short attention spans and a high degree of impulsiveness that makes it impossible for them to focus on one task for long. They are easily distracted.

In contrast, most of the high-energy dogs that clients bring to me will focus very quickly on the click-and-treat game. They are normal, active dogs who haven’t learned how to control their own behavior – but they can, if you show them how. In fact, owners are often amazed by the undivided attention their previously intractable canine companions will offer – as soon as we give the dogs a reason to focus; when we show them that focused attention makes good stuff happen. The truly hyperactive dog can’t focus even if she wants to; everything she encounters, regardless of how trivial or irrelevant, is given equal and minimal, active but fleeting interest.

Hyperactive dogs also tend to be especially sensitive to sudden environmental changes – overreacting to the presence of a strange person or animal, and apparently unable to adjust to the new stimulus. In addition, they seem to have an intolerance for boredom and an exaggerated need for novelty and variety. They don’t do well with repetitive tasks (such as basic obedience drills), but may excel in situations requiring creative solutions, such as the Border Collie who often must think for himself and make his own decisions about how to move the sheep.

Hyperactive dogs also are likely to get into everything (bored, looking for creative opportunity), can be destructive, and are often emotionally unstable. They can become almost unmanageable if physically restrained, and may exhibit uncontrollable rage-like aggression if frustrated.

Causes and Effects of Hyperactivity in Dogs

Like so many other behaviors, hyperactivity is believed to result from a mix of genes and environment – nature versus nurture. Certainly, the high-energy breeds previously mentioned are more prone to develop true hyperactive behaviors, but a dog’s genes are just the canvas that his personality is painted on by life, training, and socialization experiences. Hyperactivity can be minimized or exacerbated from puppyhood on, depending on social and environmental factors.

Excitable dogs can often be identified early. They are frequently the puppies who continually bite at hands and fight any attempt to restrain or control them – not with just a mild struggle, but with violent resistance. An excitable puppy placed into a calm, structured environment, with an owner who provides adequate exercise, socialization, and training, has a good chance of growing up to be a well-behaved, albeit active, canine companion. In the wrong environment, this pup is a disaster.

Exposure to overly active and playful children can feed hyperactivity – just one of many reasons that interactions between children and dogs should be very closely supervised. Excitable children tend to do exactly the wrong things in response to an excitable puppy’s inappropriate behaviors – hitting back, restraining, running, or screaming – all of which are guaranteed to escalate the pup’s level of excitement. Even a pup with a moderate activity level can be induced into hyperactivity in the wrong environment.

As many trainers will testify, social isolation also makes a significant contribution to hyperactive behavior. We often encounter the conundrum of the owner who promises to bring Rex into the house as soon as Rex learns to be well-behaved, but Rex can’t learn to be well-behaved when he is experiencing the activity-increasing effects of social deprivation.

A 1961 study conducted by Waller and Fuller found that puppies raised in semi-isolation exhibited excessive social contact behavior when given limited access to other puppies. When kept with their litters, the number of social contacts reduced by 75 percent. One conclusion of this study is that dogs may possess a biological need for a certain minimum amount of daily social stimulation and activity, and if that need is not met, a dog compensates with excessive activity when placed in a social situation.

It is likely that the minimum amount of social stimulation needed varies from one dog to the next. When faced with a dog who has higher-than-anticipated social needs, some owners resort to routine isolation of the dog in order to deal with the unwanted behaviors. This results in inadequate attention, insufficient exercise, and excessive confinement, adding fuel to the fire and creating a vicious cycle. When the dog is released from his confinement his behavior is worse than ever, which results in more isolation, and further decline of behavior. His chances of ever becoming a housedog grow dimmer.

Some physiological conditions are believed to play a role in canine ADHD as well. In a study published in 1999 by Drs. Jean Dodds and Linda Aronson, in collaboration with Drs. Nicholas Dodman and Jean DeNapoli of Tufts University, 634 dogs were evaluated for thyroid dysfunction as it related to various behavior problems. Forty-two of those dogs were determined to be hyperactive; thirty-one percent of the hyperactive dogs (13) were diagnosed with thyroid dysfunction.

Of 95 dogs in the study whose behavioral responses to thyroid therapy were evaluated, 81 dogs (85.3 percent) showed at least a 25 percent improvement in their behavior. Thirty-four of the dogs (35.6 percent) showed better than 75 percent improvement. Of 20 dogs treated with conventional methods and modification techniques over the same time period, only 11 (55 percent) improved by at least 25 percent.

Chronic lead poisoning is also a potential cause of hyperactivity in dogs. Two common sources are destructive chewing on old linoleum or on surfaces painted with lead-based paints.

There is also evidence to suggest that inadequate nutrition, especially early in life, may permanently affect activity levels throughout the remainder of a dog’s life. This means that the importance of proper nutrition during puppyhood cannot be overstated. Breeders must be sure that puppies in large litters or those born to mothers with insufficient milk receive adequate nutrition from other sources, and that the mother’s dietary intake can meet the demands of a nursing litter. It has been suggested that a diet high in protein, or containing elements to which a dog is allergic, may also contribute to hyperactive behavior.

Although the scientific jury is still out on the role that food additives and colorants play in hyperactive behavior, and, in fact, many studies have not found a direct correlation, a 1980 study did find a sharp decrease in hyperactive symptoms when dogs were put on a 28-day-additive free diet.

Working with “Normal” High-Energy Dogs

Say you determine that you have a high-energy dog, rather than a hyperactive one. That may be good news, but you still need to deal with your out-of-control canine. Here are some tips to help you turn your Wild Willy into a Gentle Bill:

Increase the Structure in Your Dog’s Environment

Teach him to “say please” (sit) to make good things happen. Have him sit for his dinner bowl. Have him sit for his leash to go for a walk. Have him sit to make the door to the backyard open. Have him sit to be petted, or get a cookie for coming back inside. (See “Why Force-Based Training Methods are Not Advocated.” )

Exercise More with Your Dog

Whatever he gets now, give him more, and make it quality exercise. Tossing him out in the backyard is not quality exercise. Go out with him. Throw sticks, balls, play tug of war, get him to swim in the pond, take him to the dog park. And add structure to his exercise. Have him sit politely for you to throw the ball. Make sure he will “Give” you the tug toy when you ask him to. Have him sit before you open the gate into the park.

Increase Your Dog’s Socialization

If you’ve been leaving him outside because he’s too wild, grit your teeth and bring him in. Use leashes, tethers, crates, and baby gates as needed to preserve your sanity while integrating him into the family.

Step Up Your Dog’s Training

If you’ve already taken him to a basic training class, sign up for a Level 2. Or a tricks class, or agility – anything that will keep the two of you active and learning together. Keeping his brain occupied and busy is just as important as occupying his body.

Conduct a 10-Minute ADHD Test for Your Dog

How can you tell if you have a “normal” high-energy dog or one with ADHD? The proof is in the Ritalin. Your veterinarian can administer a low dose of an appropriate amphetamine after measuring your dog’s respiration, heart rate, and reaction to restraint. Some 30-120 minutes after the amphetamine is given, most hyperkinetic dogs will show a marked decrease in excitement and activity level as well as a measurable drop in respiration and heart rate, and greater acceptance of restraint. A normal-but-active dog will have the opposite response, with an increase in excitement, activity, heart rate, and respiration, and a decreased tolerance of restraint.

First, however, you might want to try an ADHD experiment at home. Make sure your high-energy dog hasn‘t eaten for at least four hours. Take him out for a good hard romp in a safely enclosed area to take the edge off – don’t run him into exhaustion. Then leash your dog, grab your clicker and a treat bag full of very high value treats, and take him to a place with minimal distractions (indoors) for some clicker-testing fun:

1. “Supercharge” your clicker, using a very high rate of reinforcement and tiny treats for 1 minute (30-60 treats per minute). Click the clicker; and then feed the dog a smidgen of chicken for each click. Click, treat. Click, treat. Your dog doesn’t have to do anything but focus on you; don’t ask for sit, down, stay, or any other behavior. If he tries to jump on you, turn away, but keep clicking and giving him treats. Be sure to deliver the treats at his nose level so he doesn’t have to jump up to get them. If he’s grabby, toss the treats on the floor in front of him.

2. After 1 minute, reduce the rate of reinforcement to 15-30 clicks/treats per minute. Start moving the treat over his head to lure a sit. If he does sit, briefly increase the rate of reinforcement for three to four clicks, then slow down again. Do this for 2 minutes.

3. For the next 2 minutes, continue at a reinforcement rate of 10-20 clicks/treats per minute, but now, if he sits, click the clicker but hold off delivering the treat for 2 seconds at first, gradually increasing the delay of the treat‘s delivery for up to 4 or 5 seconds.

4. For 2 more minutes, click and treat on a variable/random schedule of reinforcement. That is, vary the number of seconds between clicks and treats, sometimes doing several click/treats rapidly in a row (remember to treat after each click) sometimes pausing for 1 second, or 5, or 3, or 7, between clicks. Try to keep it random; we humans are very good at falling into patterns!

5. Now, stop clicking for 30 seconds.

6. After 30 seconds, click the clicker only if he looks at you. If he keeps looking at you, keep clicking, using the random reinforcement schedule in Step 4. If he looks away, stop clicking. If he looks back at you or looks in your general direction, click again. Do this for 2% minutes.

Time’s up – the test is over!

If your dog was willing to play this game with you for the entire 10 minutes with only occasional minor attention lapses, you probably have a normal high-energy dog. It‘s time to increase his exercise, socialization, and training programs.

If, however, you lost your dog’s attention totally somewhere between Steps 2 and 4, there’s a good chance you really do have a hyperkinetic dog. Time to call your vet to schedule that amphetamine test, and while you’re there, have a full thyroid panel done as well as a blood test for lead poisoning. Remember that thyroid results within the clinically normal-but-low range can be a contributing factor to behavior problems.

The ADHD Difference

What do you do if you conclude that your dog has ADHD? In some cases, these dogs exhibit behaviors that are so intrinsically driven by organic causes that behavior modification and positive training alone can’t help.

Fortunately, a high percentage of ADHD dogs can be helped with the judicious use of stimulants in combination with a behavior modification program. Hyperactive dogs tend to be very responsive to positive reinforcement shaping procedures in conjunction with brief time-out periods.

Think back to the results of your 10-minute ADHD test. At what step did you start to lose your dog? If he was with you through Step 2 and you lost him at 3, you know that he does well with a continuous schedule of reinforcement at a fairly high rate.

Go back to the step where he did well (Step 2), and work toward Step 3, breaking your “gradually” into even smaller increments – perhaps a half-second rather than a full second – so you don’t lose him with too big a leap.

Keep your expectations low. Shape most of his behaviors in very tiny increments with a high rate of reinforcement. Keep your training session brief (five minutes, maximum), with a short time-out to calm him before you start another brief session.

Sample Task for ADHD Dogs

With many dogs, lure-shaping a down is a simple matter, accomplished in short order by moving the treat toward the floor and clicking the dog for following into a down position. We often have success in just three or four clicks, as we hold the treat at the dog’s nose and he focuses on it (click and treat), we move it halfway to the floor and he follows (click and treat), three-quarters of the way and his feet are sliding forward (click and treat), and he’s down (click and a jackpot of treats!).

In contrast, the hyperkinetic dog may require 20 or even 100 clicks, over several sessions, before you reach your final behavior goal. Teaching “Down” to this dog might require the following:

• The dog is sitting. You hold a treat in front of his nose and he focuses on it. Click and treat.
• He stays focused on the treat. Click and treat.
• Lower the treat a half-inch. His nose follows. Click and treat.
• He stays focused. Click and treat.
• Lower the treat another half-inch. He follows. Click and treat.
• Lower another half-inch. He follows. Click and treat.
• He stays focused. Click and treat.
• Release him from the sit, tell him he’s a great dog, and both of you take a five-minute brain break.
• Start with the sit again. As soon as he focuses on the treat, click and treat.
• Lower the treat an inch. His nose follows. Click and treat.
• Lower the treat another inch. He follows. Click and treat.
• He stays focused. Click and treat.
• Lower the treat another inch. Click and treat.
• He stays focused. Click and treat.
• Lower the treat another inch. Click and treat.
• Take another brain break.

You get the idea: slow and steady. Anytime you increase the increment, say from 1 inch to 2 inches, make sure he stays with you. If you lose him between 1 and 2 inches, go from 1 inch to 1½ inches. Take frequent brain breaks, and don’t make your total session more than about 15 minutes. If you lose his attention a lot, you are expecting too much. Use smaller increments, a higher rate of reinforcement (click him often just for staying with the game), and more breaks.

You never know, with patience, in the right positive environment, your “hyper” pal may turn out to be a great agility, herding, tracking, or drug-sniffing dog!

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