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Beware of Foxtail Grass This Summer

FOXTAILS AND DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. If you don’t know what foxtails look like, ask another dog owner to point them out to you.

2. Eliminate foxtails in your yard; organize a foxtail-pulling party at your local dog park.

3. At the height of foxtail “season” (when the plants are dry), avoid walking your dog in infested areas.

4. Thoroughly examine your dog after walks in foxtail areas.

One day in early May, my husband and I took Lucky, our 15-month-old Belgian Shepherd mix, for an off-leash hike at a regional park near our Oakland, California, home. Lucky was playing Fearsome Predator, stalking us in the tall grasses near the trail and then tearing off at full speed.

We were laughing at her antics when a fellow hiker stopped to watch.

foxtail awn

“That’s really cute,” the woman said, “but you should watch out for foxtails when the weather gets warmer.”

Huh? Foxes?

“No, foxtails,” she repeated. “Those weeds over there. When they get dry the seeds can get in dogs’ ears or up their noses, which means an expensive vet visit.”

She was gesturing to a stand of green, fuzzy, tall grass that looked distinctly unthreatening.

“Is this your first dog in California?” she asked at our perplexed looks. We nodded; both of us had grown up on the East Coast. “Foxtails get to be a big problem out here,” she explained. “Starting in June, I won’t be walking my dog here again until fall.”

We thanked her and she hiked on. Foxtails? Interesting. I resolved to learn more.

Three weeks later I did – the hard way. During another off-leash hike, Lucky chased a lizard and got a mouthful of that fuzzy grass, which was now turning brown and sere. After that, she kept trying to eat grass – the regular kind, not the foxtail. And in the car on the way home, she began hacking and coughing alarmingly. I called our veterinarian and told her what happened.

“Foxtails? Bring her in immediately!” she ordered.

When we arrived, an assistant gave me a rapid-fire explanation of what they might have to do: sedate Lucky, reach into her mouth and throat and attempt to remove any lodged foxtails with a special instrument.

Just then, Lucky vomited. Up came the grass she’d eaten – along with six prickly foxtail seeds. The veterinarian and her assistant were thrilled. A subsequent exam of Lucky’s throat and mouth suggested the coast was now clear. She was still hacking occasionally, but the vet believed it was just from the irritation the foxtails had caused. Any that Lucky had actually swallowed, she said, should pass through without too much trouble, although I was to keep a close eye on her.

The storm passed – as did another four foxtails! – but it taught me a lesson: these subtle little seeds could cause big problems. And many dog owners aren’t aware of the potential dangers: irritation, infection, chronic illness, and in some cases, death.

Foxtail Facts

“Foxtail” is a generic term that’s often applied to several species of wild grasses, but is specifically associated with a type of wild barley (Hordeum jubatum) that is indigenous to the western United States.

Foxtail is common all up and down the West Coast but has also spread across the country, according to the U.S. Forest Service, populating all but seven states: Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Virginia. It’s also found throughout most of Canada, as well as in some areas of Mexico.

The weed tends to grow in grassland areas and is common along roadsides, trails, and areas that include human disturbance, such as dumps. It also grows well along the edges of salt marshes, on flatlands and Western prairies, and in irrigated meadows.

Foxtails grow quickly with winter and spring rains. As they mature, a seed forms at the top of the stalk. With its, soft, bushy appearance, the seed, which is comprised of numerous seed heads, looks like a fox’s tail – hence the name.

As the plant begins to dry out in the summer months, the seed heads, also known as awns, become brittle and fall off the plant. As they continue to dry, the long foxtail breaks into smaller and smaller segments, with each sharp-pointed awn sporting a few long bristles. Viewed under a magnifying glass, each bristle is covered with an infinite number of microscopic barbs. If an animal brushes by the dry plant (or steps on it, sniffs it, rolls on it, lies on it, ad nauseum), the microscopic barbs catch on its fur.

Sometimes the awn falls from the animal’s fur on its own. However, if the awn doesn’t fall out, or it hooks into another area of the animal, that’s when the trouble starts.

Foxtails are Designed to Burrow

Catherine Dyer, DVM, diplomate of the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners and a lecturer at the University of California, Davis School of Veterinary Medicine, says it’s the barbs that make the awns so dangerous.

“Any kind of plant awn could potentially be a problem, but the classic foxtail seems to be the worst,” she says. “It has a point so it can penetrate and go up into little orifices, and it migrates in one direction – it doesn’t go backward.”

If you pick up a foxtail awn and stroke it with your fingers, you’ll quickly learn why this plant is so dangerous to dogs. The microscopic barbs facilitate the awn’s movement in one direction, following the sharp point of the seed. But you can’t rub the bristle the other way; the tiny barbs catch and prevent the backward movement of the bristle. If you force it, the bristle breaks off, leaving the rest of the awn behind.

Dogs often pick up foxtails between their toes; the flexing motion of the dog’s feet helps the foxtail work deeper and deeper between the toes, until it pierces the skin (and keeps going). It’s also extremely common for dogs to get foxtails in their nostrils as they sniff and smell in the grass on a walk. Other common foxtail sites for foxtails to embed include the dog’s ears, eyes, and throats.

“They can swallow them or actually aspirate them into the airways, which is very dangerous,” says Dr. Dyer.

Foxtails have also found their way into dogs’ anuses, vaginas, penile sheaths, or open wounds.

Once inside the dog, awns continue to burrow inward. If they’re not found and removed quickly, they can literally disappear, because they won’t show up on an x-ray. An awn that has crept into the dog will continue to travel throughout her body, often leaving a hollow tract behind it, until it either comes up against something it can’t go through (such as bone), or pops out through the skin.

Foxtails cannot be absorbed by the dog’s body, nor can they be broken down or digested, says Dr. Dyer, although if an awn is swallowed and reaches the stomach, it will probably just pass through. Foxtails that insinuate their way deep into the dog’s body can be there to stay. Autopsies have discovered foxtails in dogs’ glands, hearts, brains, lungs, livers, and other organs.

Detailing the Dangers of Foxtails to Dogs

The two main dangers posed by foxtails are foreign-body reactions and infections, says Dr. Dyer. The levels of the threat range from irritating, as when a foxtail invades the webbing between a dog’s toes and causes an abscess, to medical emergencies.

“What’s really dangerous is when they penetrate the body wall through the chest wall or the abdominal wall,” she says. “Those cases are life-threatening.”

Even if the body cavity isn’t penetrated, foxtails can lead to serious consequences.

Randy Acker, DVM, author of Field Guide to Dog First Aid: Emergency Care for the Outdoor Dog and owner of the Sun Valley Animal Center in Ketchum, Idaho, frequently treats dogs who’ve tangled with foxtails. He says even an awn lodged in the nose can be deadly serious if not removed.

“If foxtails get deep into the nasal passages, they can continue to travel into the brain and cause seizures or death,” he says.

Foxtails can also cause tissue necrosis.

“Then something like aspergillosis (a common fungus) can grow in dead tissues,” says Dr. Acker. “Once established, it’s pretty devastating; it can be as serious as cancer.”

Foxtails in the ears can rupture eardrums or cause chronic ear infections, while foxtails in the eye can lead to blindness. Inhaled foxtails can affect the lungs, causing infections and necessitating major surgery – including the removal of lung lobes.

Even if the foxtail doesn’t cause the problem, it can create a conduit for outside infection. Dirt-borne bacteria, such as Actinomyces bovis and Nocardia asteroides, can be introduced into the body cavity by a burrowing awn and can wreak havoc. Pneumonia is not an uncommon result when an awn enters a lung.

Discospondylitis, an infection of the spinal vertebra and intervertebral discs, can be introduced by foxtail migration, according to the Southern California Veterinary Surgical Group. Foxtails can cause conjunctivitis if they become lodged in the eye. And a number of other opportunistic infections, such as blastomycosis, can occur when an awn enters a dog’s body.

Which Dogs are at Risk?

Almost any outdoor dog can encounter foxtails. Dogs with long fur are more likely to pick up and retain foxtails than their short-haired brethren, although foxtails can latch on to the fur between any dog’s paws and are indiscriminate when it comes to nostrils and other orifices. Prick-eared dogs may be more likely to get foxtails in their ears than dogs with hanging ears.

At particular risk are dogs who spend a good deal of their time out in the field. Michael Guerin, a physician and hunting enthusiast who lives in South Dakota, discovered this firsthand a few years ago with his English Pointer, Tess. After a long and successful hunting season, he discovered a lump along the dog’s ribcage.

Guerin’s kept an eye on the lump, which he said felt rather hard, unlike a typical abscess.

“After a couple of days it was probably golf-ball sized,” he said. “English Pointers have a tendency to get rhabdomyosarcoma, so I thought, ‘Oh, maybe it’s cancer.’ ”

His vet removed the lump and a biopsy turned up no cancerous cells. The vet suggested there had been a foreign body in there but found no sign of it. But Guerin wasn’t satisfied and asked to see the pathology report, which included a reference to a tract. Something clicked in his mind.

“I’d never had a dog with foxtail, but I’d read an article probably 15 years ago about a dog that had a foxtail that came out the eye and it mentioned tracts,” he said. “So as soon as I saw that it said ‘tract’, I thought, I bet that’s what the dog had.”

Meanwhile, the wound wasn’t healing well. A small hole marked its center and it continued to drain fluid. Guerin brought Tess to another vet for a second opinion and shared his foxtail theory. Sure enough, in a five-hour exploratory procedure the vet discovered an awn lodged in the pleura of a lung – dangerously close to the lung itself.

The experience was a wakeup call for Guerin, and when one of Tess’s pups, Annie, developed a similar lump a year later, he didn’t hesitate.

“I found another vet who had had experience with foxtails,” he said. “So that dog was operated on by her and they got it out while it was still relatively shallow.”

Guerin has become far more vigilant with his hunting dogs as a result.

“As much as possible, I’ll avoid grasses that have awns,” he said. “But there’s always going to be some foxtail around there, and if they happen to be hunting in foxtail, I’ll check them over thoroughly afterward.”

How to Prevent Foxtail Problems for Your Dog

1. Avoid foxtail-infested areas in “foxtail season”- from early summer, when foxtails and surrounding grasses start to dry, until the fall or winter wet season eliminates the foxtail threat.

2. If you must walk your dog in areas where foxtails grow, keep him on leash and on the trail to help reduce his chances of encountering the awns.

3. To keep your dog from inhaling or ingesting a foxtail awn, don’t allow him to play fetch anywhere near foxtails. Don’t allow hunting or tracking dogs to sniff around foxtails.

4. If you have foxtails in your yard, keep the plants mowed while they are still green to help prevent them from going to seed. Better yet, pull the grasses up by hand and
deposit the whole plants directly into a garbage bag or compost bin.

5. If your dog is long-haired, trim all the hair between his toes, over the top of his toes and feet, from his legs, around his ears, his vent, and his belly. Short hair helps deny the foxtails the resistance they need to migrate deeper into the dog’s skin.

6. Keep your dog well groomed. Foxtails readily work their way into mats, but can be easily brushed out of a clean, untangled coat.

7. Most importantly, after every outdoor experience in a foxtail zone, check your dog from head to toe. Examine the space between each and every toe and underneath
his feet. Look in his armpits, groin, anal area, and ears.

8. Keep alert for suspicious lumps, bumps, or swellings on your dog. Look for limping or excessive licking of toes, head-shaking, sneezing, or a glued-shut eye.

9. If your dog exhibits any of the symptoms of having a foxtail, take him to a veterinarian as soon as possible – that day!

The Foxtail Reality Check

So how often does the worst-case scenario occur? While she has no hard-and-fast numbers on mortality rates as a consequence of foxtail-related illnesses, Dr. Dyer says the extremes are rare.

“Deaths would be the exception, although certainly we have them,” says Dr. Dyer. “Foxtails into the body cavity would probably be the least common problem we have.”

It’s much more likely for a dog to suffer a foxtail in the nose, ear, or paw.

“Depending on where it is in the body, many times you remove it and you’re done with it,” she says. “If it’s gotten inside and created an infection, then you often have to treat with antibiotics.”

However, when foxtails do dig deep, the consequences for a dog – and the veterinary bills – can become daunting.

The best way to eliminate foxtail danger is to avoid it completely. If that’s not possible, there are steps owners can take to minimize the risks (see sidebar, opposite page). But with even a minor foxtail incident, a quick response is the best medicine.

“Early intervention by your vet is important,” stressed Dr. Dyer – as is an awareness of the problem. Michael Guerin speaks soberly about what might have happened to his prized hunting dog if he hadn’t suspected a foxtail was behind her problems.

“In hindsight, I am so glad I had read that article about the awn,” he said. “And people should keep things like that in mind. If you have a little bit of an index of suspicion, that’s a good thing.”

C.C. Holland is a freelance writer from Oakland, California, who enjoys applying what she learns about canine health and behavior to her own mixed-breed dog, Lucky.

Post-Surgical Procedure Protective Collars or “Coneheads”

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By Shannon Wilkinson

The lampshade, satellite dish, or cone – no matter what you call it, it is hard not to alternately laugh and feel sorry for any dog wearing one. Often used after surgical procedures, these cone-shaped collars are designed to keep dogs from licking sutures or wounds, potentially opening the wounds or tearing the stitches. They are also used to keep a dog with an injury or surgical site on his head from scratching it with his paws.

In most cases, dogs wear the protective collars for a few days post-surgery until the incision has healed. Other times, dogs wear them for longer periods to help with problems such as lick granulomas, excessive itchiness, hot spots, or other wounds that take longer to heal.

Some dogs are just fine with wearing these protective collars, and others go bonkers. My Boxer, Tyler, is one of those dogs that goes bonkers with a traditional Elizabethan collar. First he freezes. Then he starts pawing at it and fighting it until he threatens to hurt himself or someone else. It’s difficult to keep him quiet enough so that he can heal properly.

This past spring, after surgery to remove a growth on his elbow, we had the opportunity to try out a number of different types of collars and other products to keep him away from the incision. He came home from the surgery with the vet-supplied Elizabethan collar. But as soon as we unleashed him in the house, he started trying to remove the collar forcibly. Then we started exploring our options.

Following is a summary of the products we used to restrict access to his incision. We readily ascertained that all of the products were effective for certain purposes (thus our top rating for each), although Tyler was more comfortable with some than others.

When considering what to use for your dog, keep the location of his wound in mind (some products are better than others at preventing his access to different parts of his body). But also take into consideration his personality, energy level, and general ability to adapt to different circumstances. Consider, too, the other animals in the house, because some of these products can be helpful to the dog wearing them, but disruptive or “scary” to those around him.

Finally, if your dog has to wear some sort of collar for longer than a few days, you might want to try different products for different circumstances. For instance, one might work great when you are supervising him, another is better when he’s unattended, and another one might work best for sleeping. With a little experimentation, you’re sure to find a product that helps your dog heal in comfort.

Conventional cones
Veterinary clinics usually provide their clients with classic Elizabethan collars made of thick plastic. The cone-shaped collars fasten around the dog’s neck and are tied with a string or length of gauze. They can be made somewhat more comfortable by taping the sometimes sharp edges. Typically opaque, they limit the dog’s peripheral vision. Some dogs may bump into door frames or walls with the stiff collar, which can be jarring and noisy.

There are plenty of dogs that do just fine with a traditional Elizabethan collar. Unfortunately, my dog Tyler isn’t one of them. He fought this collar at every opportunity. It also upset our other dog, who acted wary of Tyler in the collar and startled at the noise it created when Tyler bumped against things.

The traditional Elizabethan Collar was provided by our veterinarian. On the advice of a friend, I looked for and found a very similar collar for less money at our local Petco.

The Pet Botanics E-Collar is a twist on the traditional Elizabethan collar. This version is translucent, so it does not limit the dog’s peripheral vision like the traditional opaque collars do. The E-Collar also comes in translucent colors such as blue and pink. It is padded with a layer of vinyl around the neck for increased comfort, and uses plastic snaps to close the collar at the proper size. The Pet Botanics’ collars are made of a lighter-weight (but still sturdy) plastic than the vet-supplied Elizabethan collars.

For some dogs, the E-Collar could be a good option because of the increased visibility and lighter weight. Tyler however, reacted to this collar much like he did the traditional model.

We purchased the E-Collar from a local Petco. They are also available from Petco’s Web site, where they range in price from $10.50 to $21, depending on the size.

Ring around the collar
A different take on the Elizabethan collar, the Soft-E-Collar™ looks more like a life preserver than a cone. It is a vinyl-covered foam pillow that prevents the dog from reaching his incisions or wounds. Because of its flat shape, it doesn’t obscure the dog’s vision the way a cone does, but does block access to his body and most of his extremities. This does depend somewhat on the flexibility of your dog and the length of his muzzle and tongue.

It is much easier for a dog to go about his normal business with the Soft-E-Collar. It doesn’t get in the way of eating or drinking. Your dog can still play catch, tug, and other games while wearing the collar. It also is less noisy and jarring if the dog bumps against anything while wearing it.

On the down side, the Soft-E-Collar, like traditional Elizabethan collars, ties around the dog’s neck with a string. When we tried this collar on Tyler, we made the mistake of looping the string around his regular flat collar. This nearly caused a serious problem when Tyler used both front paws to swiftly push the Soft-E over his head, which caused his regular collar to start to choke him. If your dog is really committed to trying to get the collar off, this is not the most secure choice.

Bracing difference
The Bite Not Collar closely resembles a cervical collar used for whiplash in people; in fact, its manufacturer says the collar can be used for a dog’s cervical stabilization. This well-padded plastic collar fits snugly around the dog’s neck, fastening with Velcro. It has a nylon chest strap that fastens behind the front legs to keep the collar properly in place.

The Bite Not collar works by limiting the extent to which the dog can bend his neck to reach various parts of his body. This means the collar works well to prevent dogs from licking their rear ends – back, rump, base of tail, flanks, chest, abdomen, genitals – but, depending on the flexibility of the dog and the length of his legs, he may be able to lick his feet. Also, this collar won’t keep a dog with a problem on his head (such as an ear hematoma or infected eye) from scratching or rubbing his head with his paws.

Tyler didn’t react negatively to this collar at all. He played tug with our other dog and even fetched his ball a few times while wearing it. The manufacturers say that the dog should be able to eat and drink while wearing the collar; Tyler couldn’t. He also was not able to lower his head much and therefore was not able to pick up anything from the ground. It’s possible that he would have more freedom of movement with a different size collar, although I’m not sure if a smaller size would sufficiently restrict access to his wound.

Bite Not Products sells its collars through veterinarians and through some catalog outlets. You can ask your veterinarian to order one for you; we ordered direct from the Omaha Vaccine Company at (800) 367-4444 or www.omahavaccine.com.

Something different
K9 Top Coat’s Lycra Bodysuit represents a totally different tack to take when trying to prevent a dog’s self-mutilation. As you might imagine, the Lycra Bodysuit is a full body suit made of stretchy Lycra, which completely covers the dog except for his head, paws, and between the legs (so it doesn’t inhibit elimination). It’s easy to put on and take off, machine washable, and very durable.

Given its design, the coat is not indicated for protecting head wounds or preventing paw-licking; the manufacturer recommends using it over dressed wounds and for allergy and hot spot control. An optional, detachable panel can be purchased to cover a spay or neuter surgical incision.

While we imagine that some dogs might chew themselves right through the fabric, this wasn’t the case with Tyler; even though he was obsessed with licking his wound when he was not wearing the coat, he seemed to forget all about it once the coat was on. What’s more, it didn’t irritate his wound, and Tyler was more comfortable, had complete freedom of movement, and looked cute!

The Lycra Bodysuit was the most expensive option we found, so it may be a better solution for long-term problems such as allergies than post-surgical healing.

In a few cases where the Lycra Bodysuit is indicated, a simple T-shirt might work, too. It depends on the location and type of your dog’s wound or problem. Many people use T-shirts on their dogs after spaying or neutering, and find it’s the only thing their dog needs to leave the incision alone.

We weren’t so lucky with Tyler. A T-shirt didn’t keep him from licking his post-surgery bandage. However, it worked for our Great Dane, Booker, after gastropexy (stomach tacking) surgery for bloat, even though the T-shirt covered only about half of his long incision.

Depending on the size of your dog, you might be able to use one of your own T-shirts, or use a child’s or infant’s T-shirt. People T-shirts fit best on dogs when they are put on so the tag is on the dog’s chest under his chin. Gather up the loose material around the dog’s waist and either knot it, or use a hair scrunchy to hold it gathered up on the dog’s back.

-Shannon Wilkinson is a TTouch practitioner who lives with two dogs, two cats, and a husband in Portland, Oregon.

Training Advice

What to do when spouses disagree about the dog
Help! I really need suggestions to help sway my 75-year-old husband toward positive training methods for our six-month-old puppy.

Before we got our pup, we agreed upon positive training, and even bought and read your book, The Power of Positive Dog Training, among others. Now, after three months, my husband has decided that the training methods we’ve been using don’t work because the pup still (in my words) acts like a puppy.

Here’s an example: The pup has been taught (when he grabs hats, gloves, shoes, and the like) to drop it and accept an exchange item (one of many toys lying around the floor, which I grab and use to initiate the exchange). He doesn’t play tug with the human item but gives it up freely, and I think that is success. I believe he’s beginning to know that the stuff he grabs is not for him.

My husband believes the pup is still grabbing the human items because he hasn’t been punished. Hubby has built a coin-can for the times the pup counter-surfs. You get the picture.

The pup already ducks his head when my husband moves his hands. Pup is a combination guy: cautious, fearful, bright, willful, willing, funny. Husband is classic senior male homo sapien – a bit impatient with occasional tendencies toward grouchy.

I fear that I might have to give up the pup rather than subject him to this. I am heartbroken and need suggestions. Each time the pup acts up it is a condemnation of my training.

 

Pat Miller responds:

Applause to you for using positive methods – successfully – with your pup! The trade game is a perfect solution to teach pups to bring us “forbidden objects” rather than carrying them off and chewing on them.

Your husband is, indeed, undermining your training program. The ultimate goal of positive training is to create a relationship with your well-behaved dog that is built on trust and respect. Your pup is learning that he can trust you, but not other humans – at least, not your husband. So, until we can convert your husband to a more positive training philosophy, you need to look for ways to better manage your pup’s behavior so your husband doesn’t have a chance to punish him.

For starters, I would pick up all the miscellaneous items to minimize the trade-game conflict between you, your husband, and the pup. Next, I would keep countertops and tables scrupulously cleared, so the pup has no reason to counter-surf. I would also use management tools such as tethers, leashes, and crates to manage the pup’s behavior and keep him safe from punishment when you are not there to supervise.

Deb Jones’ videos – especially “Click and Go” (basic clicker training) and “Click and Fix” (using clicker training to resolve behavior problems) are the two I’d suggest for showing your husband how clicker training works.

Another fun one to watch is Karen Pryor’s “Clicker Magic.” In fact, you might have him watch the Pryor video first; it’s very entertaining and a great overview of all the various things that clicker training can accomplish, while Jones’ are terrific “how-to” tapes.

Remember that your husband has probably been practicing these old-fashioned punishment-based training methods for 70-plus years. Well-practiced behaviors can take a long time to change, so be patient with him while you protect your puppy.

Also remember that positive reinforcement works beautifully with humans, too! Look for ways to reward your husband when he does use positive methods with your puppy, and remember to find and use rewards that are meaningful to him.

If all else fails, you might seriously consider rehoming the pup. I agree that I would not want to raise a dog in an environment that caused him to become fearful.

Good luck – and let us know how you do with turning your husband into a crossover trainer!

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Big dog gets more and more aggressive on walks
My friend got a very large mixed breed dog about a year ago. She lives in a condominium and has to walk the dog many times a day since there is no yard.

For about the first six months, all went well. My friend cannot point to an incident or recall anything that might have caused her dog’s behavior to change, but he has gradually become less able to pass other dogs without reacting. Every time her dog sees another dog while out walking, he becomes agitated, whines, barks, lunges, etc.

I’ve suggested trying to keep the dog at a distance from his triggers, desensitization, using the “treats from heaven” to try to convince the dog that seeing other dogs is a good thing, and even simply turning and walking the other way when they see another dog approaching. Unfortunately, this dog has to be walked in a neighborhood full of dogs; it’s not possible to keep him at a distance from his triggers. My friend is considering an electric collar, to my dismay.

Do you have any suggestions for positive training methods to use in this situation?

 

Pat Miller responds:

It’s unfortunate that your friend waited this long to address the problem; if she had used positive reinforcement all along there’s a good chance the problem behavior might never have occurred.

You can tell her that there are usually three causes of this behavior:

1. He wants to greet, visit, and play with the other dogs. She doesn’t let him (nor would I) or doesn’t always let him, perhaps even gives him collar “corrections,” so he gets frustrated and stressed, which expresses itself as aggression.

2. Her reaction to his stress and frustration is to verbally and/or physically reprimand him, which stresses him more, leading to more aggression, and convincing him that bad things happen when other dogs are around. This causes him to start to dislike other dogs.

3. At age one-year-plus, he is reaching maturity, which is when some dogs, especially assertive ones, may begin to exhibit signs of inter-dog aggression, even if they were neutered at an appropriate age.

I would suggest the following:

1. If the dog is not already neutered, do so immediately. It takes a few weeks for the effects of the hormones to subside, but the lack of testosterone definitely helps reduce a male dog’s “drive” to act aggressively.

2. If she has not already taken the dog through a basic good manners class taught by a skilled positive trainer, she should do so immediately. If she has already taken a basic class with him, she should enroll him in the next level.

3. If the dog is suitable, she should take him to a reputable doggie daycare facility two or more times a week, to give him the opportunity to interact naturally and freely with other dogs without the frustration of leash restraint. A good daycare facility, with knowledgeable, experienced managment, will be able to safely determine if he is a good candidate for socialized daycare.

4. If he does well at daycare, she should try to find a dog park to take him to at least once or twice a week in addition to the daycare.

5. I would also suggest that she read several good books on dog aggression and behavior, including:

• Aggression in Dogs, by Brenda Aloff
• The Other End of the Leash, by Patricia McConnell
• The Culture Clash, by Jean Donaldson
• Dogs Are From Neptune, by Jean Donaldson

6. Finally, as you suggested, I would suggest that your friend implement a program of counter-conditioning and desensitization to change the dog’s opinion of the presence of other dogs from stressful to positive.

Counter-conditioning and desensitization can work even if the reaction is triggered from time to time – it just may take longer. Tell her that using a shock collar is likely to just reinforce his current opinion that being around other dogs is a bad thing. If necessary, she should engage the services of a good, positive trainer who can help her modify this behavior – sooner, rather than later when it gets even worse and will be more difficult to fix.

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My two dogs can’t live together peacefully anymore!
I really need some advice/ideas/wisdom about my two dogs. Right now, I’m so discouraged about them.

I adopted Molly, age three, two years ago from our local Humane Society. If she’s not a purebred Mini-Aussie, there’s not much else in her. To say she is energetic doesn’t begin to describe her. (I joke that her anatomy includes a caffeine gland.) She’s very smart, and a super dog in her comfort zone, but her comfort zone is very small. My efforts to extend her comfort zone have ranged from mildly successful to nightmarish.

Her difficult behaviors range from acting like she wants to take the head off of someone at the door (though she’s never bitten anyone) to submissive urination. I’ve been able to marginally improve some of these things. She does get exercise, but probably not enough for her energy level.

About a year ago, I was very happy to be able to successfully introduce little puppy Cocoa into our household. This little cutie (who looks a lot like a pint-sized Chesapeake Bay Retriever) fought her way back from distemper, which ruined my early socialization plans, but I’m happy to say she loves dogs and people alike.

Molly and Cocoa are not exactly buddies, but they have coexisted mostly peacefully and will play together.  Now that Cocoa is an adult, however, their squabbles seem to be on the increase. Sometimes their squabble seems to be over me and this is solved if I walk away. However, they have had a few knock-down drag-outs that have resulted in blood (Cocoa’s; Molly is much quicker) and would have been truly frightening if they were big dogs.

The bad squabbles seem to occur when Molly gets very frantic about something and Cocoa, bugged at these shenanigans, will growl at her as if to say, “Knock it off, already.” Molly replies “Oh, yeah? Make me!” and they’re off.

I have read a lot about dog behavior, but lacking much experience, I can’t seem to figure out how to handle this correctly. I am very committed to both of these dogs.

 

Pat Miller responds:

Aggression between your own dogs can be incredibly stressful and heartbreaking. Good for you for your commitment to putting some serious work into fixing it!

It seems paradoxical that dogs, who are naturally pack animals, can have so much trouble getting along with each other. It is really very common, though, in part due to the fact that we keep them in such unnatural environments. We humans are a social species, too, and look how much trouble we can have getting along!

Several things about your dilemma:

It’s devilishly difficult to help diagnose aggression long-distance since there are so many variables in the behavior as well as the observer’s analysis of it. Without watching your dogs’ body language with my own eyes, it’s pretty tricky to make an accurate guess about what’s going on.

That said, I’ll give you my opinion anyway. However, I think you should seriously consider consulting a behaviorist who can see your dogs in action. Generally, the longer two dogs have a history of antagonistic behavior, the more deeply ingrained it is, and the more resistant to modification. Bringing in a behaviorist sooner, rather than later, increases your likelihood of success.

Remember to interview and investigate your behaviorist thoroughly. College degrees do not make or break a good behaviorist. There are Veterinary Behaviorists, Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists, and behaviorists – trainers who do behavior work but don’t have the degree. Any of them can be good or bad. Find one with a good track record, whose training and behavior modification philosophies match yours.

As for the dogs’ behavior . . . My guess is that Molly tolerated Cocoa until the puppy reached adulthood. As Cocoa matured and gained more confidence in her own position, she became less willing to defer to Molly. I don’t know when you had her spayed, but there is some evidence that spaying can increase female dog aggression because the female hormones are reduced, increasing the influence of the remaining testosterone in her system. I’m not convinced about that because the assertive behavior generally increases as a female reaches maturity – which coincidentally is the same time many people have their dogs spayed.

Either way, I would suggest creating a very calm, structured household, with rowdy play delegated to the outdoors where there is more open space, and where resource guarding of you is less likely to occur. Practice close observation of both dogs’ body language for early signs of tension. Intervene early, with a cheerful “Go to your place!” for both dogs, when you see tension building – not just for the one you perceive to be the aggressor. If early intervention doesn’t head off disaster, then a more formal (still cheerful) time-out for both dogs may be in order; send them to separate rooms for a short cooling-off period.

Better management of situations that are likely to cause conflict can help. For example, calm, controlled passage through doorways to the outside can reduce arguments – not because dogs hold doorways in such high regard, but because the excitement of going in and out is likely to generate high arousal, which can cause conflict.

I would also suggest veterinary exams for both dogs, including full panel thyroid tests (clinically normal but low thyroid levels may contribute to aggression) to be sure there are no medical conditions contributing to stress, which contributes to aggression. You could also explore lower protein diets, and discuss alternative approaches with a veterinarian who is comfortable with both Eastern and Western modalities of treatment, to see if there are any herbal, homeopathic, or flower essence remedies that might help your dogs be more compatible. Other possibilities to investigate that can be very helpful are related to touch: calming massage, acupressure, and/or TTouch techniques.

More exercise can help take the wind out of their sails. You may need to exercise them separately to prevent squabbles. Controlled exercise (rather than frenzied) is ideal, since it reinforces the dogs’ deference to you. For example: “Sit and wait while I throw the ball, go get it when I ask, bring it back, drop it, and sit and wait for me to throw again.”

I would also recommend reading Jean Donaldson’s two books, The Culture Clash and Dogs Are From Neptune, and either Brenda Aloff’s Aggression in Dogs, or James O’Heare’s Canine Aggression Workbook. All of these books can give you greater insight into the workings of your dogs’ brains, and the last two can help you set up specific behavior modification protocols.

One last note: Stay safe if a fight does erupt. Dog-dog aggression doesn’t usually translate to intentional aggression toward humans, but it’s easy to get bitten if you jump into the middle of a fracas. (See “Break It Up,” WDJ December 2002.)

 

 

Supplements and NSAIDs for Dogs

Dog’s Health and Vitality Gained from Supplements

I read “Securing Seacure” in the April 2003 issue with great interest. Our 10-year-old Lab, Annie, was diagnosed with mast cell cancer in February. Once we received the diagnosis, we brought Annie to a specialist to see if there was any treatment available. The doctor told us that there is really no effective treatment for her type of cancer for many reasons, including the stage to which her cancer had developed.

In your article on Seacure®, it was stated that Seacure alleviates nausea and vomiting, and possibly helps prevent or reverse cancer. We decided to try this product as we felt we had nothing to lose. We have gained two wonderful months with very limited vomiting, and lots of energy and enthusiasm from our Annie.

I have ordered another supply from Proper Nutrition. This company could not be more helpful and responsive. Ordering through their toll-free number is easy and the shipping is fast. I know that this is not a cure for Annie’s cancer, but so far, Seacure has improved her quality of life.

In the past, I have purchased many of the products that you have recommended and have not been disappointed in any of them, but Seacure is the one that has really made a difference in all of our lives.

-Linda King
via e-mail

My brother’s Lab retriever-mix was diagnosed with extensive cancer about a month ago. One vet estimated that she only had three weeks to live. My brother is not a very “alternative health” type of guy, but I remembered your recent articles about cancer (“New Hope for Treating Cancer,” May 2003) and the nutritional supplement, Seacure (“Securing Seacure,” April 2003). We put the dog on both Seacure and artemisinin. She got the runs at first, but now she’s almost back to her old self! Her appetite and activity levels are back!

We’re not going to venture to say that the cancer is in remission or anything, but she’s so much more happy and comfortable. Her arthritis even seems better. Thank you so much for your wonderful publication. Please keep on spreading the word!

-Donna Gatewood
Elkins Park, PA

I am a faithful reader of WDJ and I know that our pets have healthier lives as a result of your articles. In March we lost our 19-year-old, 65-pound mixed breed rescue, but he had been on somazymes and other supplements recommended in your articles. He lived a long rich life due to supplements that kept him healthy.

My most recent miracle was Candy, our 16-year-old rescue. She went in for her annual physical and her ALT liver enzymes were elevated. We tested again in a week and they were escalating at an alarming rate. We did a bile duct study, which was normal. And we were getting ready to have an ultrasound performed to determine whether there was liver cancer.

I went back to my archives of your articles, and saw that you discussed toxins in the liver in the July 2002 issue (“Milk Thistle”). My husband and I take milk thistle but I had never given it to our pets. We consulted our vet and gave her the article to read. She was very receptive, so we gave Candy 175 mg twice a day. She weighs about 45 pounds.

The wonderful news is two weeks later, Candy’s ALT liver enzymes were normal at 38 after being in the thousands. We will monitor her on a monthly basis, keeping her on the same dosage of milk thistle.

There was an obvious toxin in her liver, but the milk thistle has promoted new cells, and for now we have a healthy, happy dog. She has occasionally taken Rimadyl on cold, damp, winter days. If Rimadyl was the culprit, it would be wonderful to know milk thistle could combat any damage done to the liver by this medication.

I thank you for your wonderful guidance, as our pets are such treasures in our lives.

-Beth Hannon
Greer, SC

———-

The Truth About NSAIDs

How I wish “Administer With Care” (June 2003) would have been published three months earlier. If it had been, I would have read the information that could have prevented my four-year-old Beagle, K.C., from a dangerous reaction to a combination of NSAIDs, as well as an expensive hospitalization.

K.C. was being treated for a ruptured disc in March. An emergency room veterinarian prescribed EtoGesic and the next day her regular veterinarian prescribed Deramaxx, knowing full well that she was already on the EtoGesic. He did tell me to cut the EtoGesic dosage in half because the combination may cause ulcers.

Two days later K.C. was at the University of Minnesota because her condition had deteriorated significantly and she was scheduled for surgery. The veterinarian at UMN immediately took her off these two drugs, saying they never should have been used at the same time. Because of [the combination of] the two drugs, K.C. was in intensive care for three days, vomiting continually. After five days in the hospital, she came home and is still recovering from her ordeal. It if weren’t for the quick thinking and knowledgeable vets at UMN, K.C. might not be with us today.

Thank you for your wonderful and informative publication. You tell us what so many others won’t.

-Sue Marinkov & K.C.
Woodbury, MN

I enjoyed reading “Administer with Care,” about NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), in the June issue of WDJ. I found it to be extremely accurate, informative, and well-written.

I have practiced veterinary medicine with a boarded specialty in small animal medicine and surgery, since 1981. In these 22 years I have seen significant advancements in the treatment of canine osteoarthritis.

I first started to use Rimadyl in 1997 or thereabouts. I was aware of the side effects at the time, and always recommended a complete blood panel prior to its use. I also continued blood monitoring every three months while the patient was on this therapy.

I have numerous arthritic-type drugs and supplements on my shelves, from aspirin, glucocorticoids, and phenylbutazone (a horse remedy) to Arthri-Nu, Glycoflex, Cosequin, EtoGesic, Adequan, Osteocare, and now Deramaxx. When I first graduated from veterinary school, buffered aspirin and phenylbutazone were the only available NSAIDs, and corticosteroids were used for severe cases. There were no neutraceutical remedies that were used at the time.

In 2002, Time magazine published an article on osteoarthritis in humans. The authors analyzed the current rave in Cox-2 inhibitors, and also the non-drug or nutraceutical route. They ascertained that Cox-2 inhibitors were indeed functional in pain relief but had significant side effects, including many of the ones mentioned in your article. Of all the neutraceutical, herbal, and homeopathic remedies out there, the writer’s research found only the glucosamine and chondroitin supplements to be truly effective in both pain relief and maintenance of joint space width and functional mobility.

I have done significant research in this area and I have found that NSAIDs (including aspirin, ibuprofen, Rimadyl, EtoGesic, and the new Cox-2 inhibitors such as Deramaxx) definitely relieve pain – but they may also potentially damage the cartilage in the joint. The makers of Rimadyl, Etogesic, and Deramaxx claim that this isn’t true with Cox-2 inhibitors. They emphasize that as long as the recommended package dose (or lower) is maintained, their studies have not shown damage to the cartilage.

I have not seen those studies, but I have seen the human studies that show that although NSAIDs relieve pain and provide some anti-inflammatory effects, there is no evidence illustrating their role in arresting the progression of the disease. In fact, they may actually accelerate disease progression by slowing the rate of proteoglycan synthesis and exacerbating the loss of cartilage. Basically all this means is that the building blocks of joints are actually slowed in their rates of joining and that the cartilage in turn can break down easier.

I recommend NSAIDs for my clients as a very last resort, or prednisolone when the animal no longer responds to any of the neutraceutical remedies I use first. I use NSAIDs only when the patient’s blood panels are normal, and when the owner agrees to do monthly blood testing, has read the package labels regarding adverse reactions, and knows all the risks involved.

If I have a young or old patient with osteoarthritis or any congenital or hereditary disease, I generally start them out on Breeder’s Choice Active Care treats or biscuits or Breeder’s Choice’s Active Care diet. I talk to the owner about the need for the dog’s weight loss and slowly increasing activity and walking for increasing time periods daily to help build up the supporting muscles to the joint that is afflicted with osteorarthritis.

I recommend Cosequin, too, but I don’t always use this as my first neutraceutical because of the high levels of salt in the product. Most of my canine patients with osteoarthritis are older, and may have cardiac or renal disease. Salt levels need to be kept at a minimum in these patients.

I tell my clients not to use one of the generic glucosamine or chondroitin sulfate products because university studies have shown that when these pills are tested for levels of glucosamine or chondroitin they are often not there or nowhere near the levels stated on the label. Furthermore, shelf stability is poor with these products.

Cartilage foods, treats, and biscuits (such as those found in the Active Care products) are offered in their natural form and are not chemically manipulated to extract one or more glycosaminoglycan. I offer this line of nutritional therapy regularly and early in my patients’ lives. Cartilage has little or no fat or salt, which makes it an excellent supplement for all ages and breeds of dogs, especially when trying to minimize caloric intake for obese patients where weight contributes to osteorarthritis.

If the dog is in severe pain I will prescribe EtoGesic (or now Deramaxx) with a meal, along with a cartilage-based food or treat, until the dog’s symptoms improve. I have also had tremendous success with Adequan, an injectable form of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). This involves twice weekly injections for three weeks, then one injection every two to three weeks as needed. Generally I will use EtoGesic and a GAG product simultaneously for the rest of the pet’s life and recommend monthly blood testing or sooner if any adverse signs develop. In extreme cases, I still resort to glucocorticoids.

Putting dogs (especially those breeds that are most likely to experience osteorarthritis) on cartilage-based foods, treats, and supplements to help mitigate the potential onset of osteoarthritis is highly recommended and very good nutritional therapy, and illustrates yet another alternative to treating osteoarthritis in companion animals.

-Katalin Grant, DVM
Long Beach, CA

[Editor’s note: Dr. Grant is the consulting veterinarian for Breeder’s Choice, and is affiliated with Active Life Pet Products, maker of Osteocare, a GAG supplement. Active Life licenses its cartilage technology to Breeder’s Choice.]

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Play and Eat Safely

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The file of “dog park” photos I have taken is thick. I shot most of these photos during three or four different multi-hour trips to local dog parks with the generic intention of having a good supply of “stock” images for future use.

This month, I spent an hour or two looking through the file for pictures to accompany trainer Mardi Richmond’s article on dog park play. Specifically, I was looking for clear examples of canine bullying and appeasing; dogs who were looking for fights, and dogs who wanted to avoid them. After my first pass through the stack of some 400 photos, I had two stacks: shots of dogs playing especially nicely, and dogs who were showing some indication that their intent was less than nice.

When I examined the two stacks more closely, to my amusement, several canine characters showed up half a dozen times in one stack or the other – consistently exhibiting exaggerated gestures that clearly indicated their play personalities.

I hadn’t consciously followed any one dog when taking these pictures, but in attempting to shoot dog-dog interaction, I had unwittingly focused on certain charismatic dogs. The standouts in the “nice play” stack included a big Shepherd-cross play-bowing in front of several different playmates, and a young Lab who appeared in every frame either licking his nose, standing still with his head averted and tail low, or lying down submissively.

The “not-nice” stack had at least a dozen different shots of a female Boxer-mix standing assertively over half a dozen different victims. Interestingly, I had no images of her playing with other dogs, only shots of her bullying other dogs.

I hope that Richmond’s article on dog park play and my accompanying photos will help you recognize the dogs who would make fun, healthy playmates for your dog, and those who should perhaps be avoided for your dog’s emotional and physical well-being.

Speaking of health, CJ Puotinen’s great article on pasture-fed meat sure has me reevaluating my diet, not to mention that of my dogs. The more I learn about milk, eggs, meat, poultry, and even fish that comes from “factory farms,” the more I am tempted to move to the country and grow my own. At the very least, I’m buying organic pasture-fed beef for all the consumers in my household from now on.

If I wasn’t determined to do so before, I am now, after reading that the Canadian cow who had been determined (in May) to have “mad cow disease” had ended up in dry dog food in the U.S. in February or March. Dependence on multinational companies for our food supply is getting more perilousall the time.


-Nancy Kerns

Picking the Right Playmates for Your Dog

Spend any amount of time watching dogs play, and you’ll quickly learn how much fun two or more canine pals can have romping and wrestling. And you can’t beat playtime for exercise and burning off energy. But dog play does a whole lot more than simply provide an opportunity for fun and exercise; it helps dogs learn important communication and life skills. Play and socialization can mean the difference between a dog who is friendly toward other dogs, and one who is shy, anxious, or even aggressive.

Unfortunately, not every social encounter provides the kind of positive learning experience that helps dogs develop good social skills. In some cases, playtime can actually teach dogs to behave badly around other dogs. If social time goes very wrong, it can do emotional or even physical harm to your dog. But with a little caution and a bit of dog sense, you can ensure your dog’s play encounters provide the best in both fun and social learning.

Why dog play is important
Puppies and dogs learn essential canine manners and social skills when playing. Through play, they can also learn to tolerate frustration and to control their excitement. Without puppyhood play, dogs have a much greater risk of nervousness or aggression toward other dogs later in life.

Perhaps the most important behavior that puppies learn from playing with other puppies and dogs is bite inhibition – the ability to control their mouths. While bite inhibition is first established when a puppy is six or seven weeks old, ongoing play with other dogs throughout puppyhood reinforces a soft mouth. There is no better way for a dog to learn to control how hard or softly he bites than through playing with other dogs.

Socializing with other dogs, however, should not start and end in puppyhood. Playtime during adolescence teaches dogs social skills that they will use for successful adult interactions. They begin to learn to behave as “dogs” instead of as “puppies.” As young adults, they continue to refine those skills. It’s not uncommon for young adult dogs to suddenly begin experimenting in their behavior with other dogs. Positive social interactions at this stage of life are very important to reinforce appropriate behavior and social interactions.

As dogs mature and grow older, continuing social interactions will help them maintain their meeting and greeting skills. In her book, The Other End of the Leash, trainer and behaviorist Patricia McConnell writes, “ . . . dogs need to learn that part of what’s normal and familiar in life is to meet unfamiliar people and dogs.” Regular interactions with novel dogs help reinforce the idea that meeting new dogs is simply a part of everyday life.

Will they be friends?
Your role in your dog’s play with other dogs is to always pay attention. Too often, people take their dogs to dog parks or play areas and ignore them while they visit with the people. Taking the opportunity to socialize with other dog people is certainly one of the perks of dog parks, but you have to pay attention to your dog, too!

When two dogs meet for the first time, there is sometimes a bit of initial tension. If both dogs are friendly and have good social skills (and they are off leash so they have the opportunity), they will generally approach each other on a bit of an arc or circular path. They may sniff and check each other out. At that time, either they will choose to disengage, or to engage in either play or conflict.

How can you tell what will happen? Watch the dogs and they will tell you through their body language. For example, ears back, a slightly lowered body stance, barely visible hackles on the shoulders, and a low tail may tell you that the dog is nervous about the meeting. Depending on the reaction of the second dog, the nervousness may be calmed, or it may be intensified. Learn and watch for your dog’s signals; his behavior will let you know whether he is comfortable in any given situation.

If dogs choose to disengage, respect their choice. Give them the opportunity for personal space. Encouraging dogs to continue to engage when they are setting good boundaries for themselves could lead to an avoidable conflict.

If the dogs decide to play, continue observing their behavior. Watch how they play. Does your dog seem to be enjoying the interaction? Does the other dog? Are they frequently changing positions, with one dog in charge or on top first, then the other? Sometimes this is hard to see. Try to notice if they seem to be taking turns. If your dog is not enjoying the play or if the play seems one-sided, you may want to separate the dogs and take your dog to another corner of the park.

If you see that the dogs are not happily greeting, you may be able to separate them before a conflict erupts. A cheerful, “Come” or “Let’s go!” can sometimes help give your dog permission to leave the situation. Please note: The timing of the “Come” will make a difference. If you call too early, your dog may not be able to make a graceful exit (and may choose to continue with the greeting rather than be rude or put himself in harm’s way). This is not a time to worry about whether your dog responds instantly to your call. Try calling again when you see a pause in the greeting ritual.

Play time gone bad
Some squabbles and dogfights can’t be avoided. But many can. An inappropriate play situation can lead to tension or a fight between dogs. It may also teach your dog to behave badly in future social situations. While it is important to give dogs the opportunity to deal with a variety of social situations, you want to make sure the “play” will not (as one dog trainer I know puts it) “send them to therapy.”

What can you do when you see that playtime is taking a turn for the worse? Get your dog out of the situation – immediately. Watch for four situations in particular: overly aroused dogs, bully dogs, pack behavior, and predatory behavior.

If you see the dogs are becoming overly aroused – getting so wound up that their play style begins to look less playful and more aggressive – it is very important to have them take a break from play. It may be that the dogs just need a little break, and then they will be ready to play again. Some dogs, like some children, get more active or wound up when they are tired.

If you know your dog is tired, or you see his arousal level going up, you may need to help him disengage. If you can’t have him take a break (for example, taking him to another part of the park while the other dogs continue to play), you may need to remove him from the park altogether. Letting tired dogs continue to play could result in them forgetting their basic manners, or ending up in a fight.

Beware, also, of dogs exhibiting bully behavior. Some young dogs do “test out” bullying. Usually, the dog will try out the behavior on one or two dogs, get firmly told off, and consequently modify his behavior.

Occasionally you may run into a confirmed bully at the dog park or other off-leash area. This dog may be uninterested in actual play, spending most of her time between scanning the park for potential victims and bullying those victims. When she does engage in play, she will always be the dog “on top,” rolling the other dogs to the ground or standing over them. She is often the first dog to rush toward any other dog-dog conflict in the park, seeking an opportunity to jump on whatever dog is on the receiving end of punishment.

If you see a dog exhibiting bullying behavior in a play area, keep your dog away! Bullies can and will create an atmosphere that can result in conflicts and even fights between dogs who would otherwise get along just fine.

If your dog has a tendency to bully other dogs – for example, if he continually “picks” on another dog or does not stop playing even when the other dog obviously wants to disengage – use caution in choosing playmates. Playing with other dogs that “allow” or tolerate the bullying could actually serve to reinforce your dog’s bully behavior. Ideally, you’d find dogs who will play with your dog, but who won’t tolerate bullying behavior. Let them teach your dog not to be rude!

Finding the ideal dogs to teach your dog manners may be difficult, however, and you may have to intervene instead. The type of intervention will depend on your dog’s age and the severity of the behavior. It could be as simple as a brief time-out each time the bully behavior begins. Or, it could mean a more involved behavior modification program. If your dog is behaving like a bully, consult with a behaviorist experienced in dog-to-dog interactions. Letting the behavior go unchecked may result in a dog who doesn’t get taken anywhere any more.

In addition, where groups of dogs congregate, watch for pack behavior. When dogs “pack up,” the rules of play change. It’s not just dogs who live together who will pack up, either; dogs who regularly play together at a dog park can form what I call “play packs.” A group of friendly dogs that get along smashingly well with each other can suddenly engage in conflict when a new dog enters the scene. In addition, one dog in a playgroup can sometimes become a target for the rest. Interrupt and extract your dog if a group of dogs begins to charge, chase, or pay extra attention to any single dog. Whether your dog is part of the pack, or on the outside of it, he could learn unwanted behavior.

Predatory behavior occurs when one dog reacts to another dog as if he is a prey animal. The result can be fatal, with the predatory dog trying to or succeeding in killing the other dog. Predatory behavior may simply be due to a momentary error; the dog who sees a cute fluffy little dog bouncing through an open field may think for a moment that it’s a bunny rabbit. In this case, the predatory dog may or may not do harm to the fluffy little dog. He may run up, discover it’s a dog, and immediately back off. Or, he may be in such a prey drive state that he doesn’t register the cute fluffy creature as a dog at all, possibly hurting or killing the small dog.

What behaviorist Jean Donaldson has referred to as “predatory drift” is a different type of risk for small dogs playing with big dogs. It occurs when a bigger dog suddenly, and seemingly without warning, reacts to a smaller dog when the small dog squeals or struggles when playing or fighting (out of excitement or because of a minor injury). It’s thought that an instinctive part of the big dog’s brain is triggered to kill the squealing “prey.”

Predatory drift could occur in an instant, even when two dogs know each other, like each other, play together regularly, or even with two dogs who are family members. The phenomenon is an uncommon but very real risk for any small dog who lives or plays with larger dogs.

Dealing with fights
Whenever you have dogs playing with other dogs, conflicts will arise. They may argue, or actually get into a full-blown fur-flying squabble. What should you do? Should you let them “work it out”? This is a judgment call and one that I believe should be approached with great caution – erring on the side of intervention.

Recently I observed a young dog getting picked on by a group of adolescent dogs at a park. The young dog exhibited calming signals and unsuccessfully tried to hide under a chair to escape the snarls, nips, and body slams of three bullies. Her guardian said she thought her young dog was overwhelmed and that perhaps it was time to leave. Another dog’s owner replied, “Oh no, you shouldn’t take her away. She needs to learn to work it out with the other dogs.”

This was not a situation in which the dog should have “worked it out” on her own – she was being mistreated by a group of bullies! She needed help and protection from her person. Left to her own resources, she may have been forced to either tolerate abuse, or resort to serious aggression to get the bullies to back off. Fortunately, her person had the good sense to leave, in spite of pressure from the other owners.

It’s difficult to know when to let dogs “work it out” and when to intervene. I’ve come up with my own loose set of guidelines. Trust your own judgment and err on the side of protecting your dog!

• If a dog admonishes another dog or puppy, the correction is administered quickly, fairly, and without doing harm, and the second dog responds by backing off, letting them work it out is okay.

• Sudden, quick disagreements that are over in a matter of seconds – and where neither dog shows any indication of wanting to continue the argument – may be okay. For example, if two dog friends are playing and suddenly have a minor squabble, disengage and start playing again, it’s probably safe to let them continue to play.

• I immediately interrupt any situation that seems to be escalating, separating the dogs. I would prefer to avoid any potential risk to my dog, especially if the other dog is unfamiliar to me, and I don’t know whether he has a hard or soft mouth.

• If a dog seemed to enjoy fighting with other dogs, I would not let him “work it out” under any circumstances, as it will reinforce the fighting behavior.

Finding the perfect playmates
Each time we take our dog friends to play with other dogs, we make choices that can either increase or decrease the likelihood of our dog having a positive experience. Consider carefully which dogs you will encourage your dog to play with, and which dogs you will avoid. Spend some time observing the dogs present before entering the park with your dog.

In addition, if you take your dog to a doggy daycare or a training class that incorporates off-leash playtime, be sure the instructor carefully selects playgroups. Make sure play style, age, size, and the number of dogs are taken into account.

I believe that it is our role to protect our dogs, even when it comes to play. This shows our dogs that we are in charge (so they don’t have to be) and helps build and maintain their trust. I also believe that we expect and encourage our dogs to live a lifestyle that demands our active participation to keep them safe. Remember: our dogs do not choose to live in the kind of crowded urban conditions that require them to get along with great numbers of new dogs – we bring them to those conditions. With that in mind, I’d like to add these thoughts:

• Always protect your dog in social situations. Provide him with safe playmates. Don’t force your dog to remain in social situations that are obviously uncomfortable. Watch out for rude dogs – dogs who invade your dog’s space or intimidate your dog. Step between them or move your dog away.

• Size does matter! Many dog parks have separate areas for small dogs and big dogs, and for good reason. Tiny dogs probably should not play with huge dogs, no matter how sweet or gentle the big dog is, nor how energetic and tough the smaller dog. Even the sweetest big dog can inadvertently hurt a smaller dog in play. The risk of predatory behavior and predatory drift is another good reason to avoid large dog/small dog play.

• Consider the dogs’ ages; similar energy levels and play styles are often associated with age. You shouldn’t put your twelve-year-old, arthritic dog in with a bunch of rowdy, body-slamming adolescents. On the other hand, a good mix of dogs, both older and younger, can help teach a young dog how to get along well with all sorts of dogs.

• How many dogs are present? Because dog parks are fenced, they protect dogs from cars and other hazards. But the fencing also provides a barrier that can inhibit a dog’s ability to create space from the other dogs. It’s important to evaluate whether there is adequate space for the number of dogs in the park.

Even in larger or open areas, some dogs may be happy meeting and visiting with a few dogs, but too many will cause stress. A dog may be comfortable greeting 5, 10, or even 15 new dogs in one outing. But 20 or 30 dogs may put him over the top. There is one large, open space dog park in our area that regularly hosts up to 30 or more dogs. This amount of stimulation may simply be too much for some dogs. Each dog has a different tolerance for meeting and greeting new dogs. Get to know your dog’s comfort level.

• The most important thing – know your dog. Learn her behavior cues and stress signals. Watch for them. Observe her body language. Look at her ears, tail, hackles, how she carries her body. Does it look like she’s having fun? Does it look like she’s trying to end the game or keep it going? Is she getting too wound up? Don’t wait until your dog is pushed too far. Pay attention to the early signals. Your dog’s safety and comfort depend on it. Know her social strengths and weaknesses. Just as with people, different dogs enjoy different games. Some dogs love nothing more than to get a whole pack of friends to chase them. Some dogs never run or wrestle with other dogs, but thoroughly enjoy cruising, sniffing, and marking around other dogs. Some dogs are flexible and can adapt to a variety of play styles.

Knowing how your dog likes to play is important when it comes time to choosing playmates. If you provide her with opportunities to play with appropriate partners, she will maintain her strengths and overcome her weaknesses. Learn how to stretch and expand your dog’s social skills in a way that will keep her healthy, happy, and playing with other dogs for years to come.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Perfect Playmates”

Thanks to Cherie Maitland of Our Furry Friends in Santa Cruz for her help with this article.

Recognizing Dandelion’s Herbal Benefits to Dogs

Dandelion for dogs is a useful supplement that can promote health.

[Updated July 19, 2017]

MEDICINAL DANDELION OVERVIEW

– Use dandelion as an adjunct to your dog’s fresh, wholesome, nutritious diet for best effect.

– Grow your own dandelion, and try it yourself!

– If a veterinarian has prescribed a pharmaceutical diuretic for your dog, ask her about slowly replacing the drug with dandelion, under her supervision.

There is no such thing as a stand-alone herb that serves every purpose; each herb in my medicine chest serves as an integral part of an interdependent health care system. However, there is a single herb that persists and flourishes in my memory, just as it does in the fields and gardens where it lives.

I’m not speaking of a rare plant, harvested under the supervision of an aboriginal medicine man from the primordial rainforests of South America. Nor is my favorite herb meticulously farmed in high-tech greenhouses under the scrutiny of horticultural experts. Much to the contrary. The herb I’m talking about is a common, and often-hated weed: Taraxacum officinale, the humble but lovable dandelion.

dandelion as medicine

Dandelion offers a broad spectrum of medicinal and nutritional applications that can be freely accessed and safely employed by anyone. Contained within its leaves, roots, and flowers is a myriad of medicinal actions: diuretic, diaphoretic, cholagogue, alterative, astringent, antimicrobial, analgesic, immunostimulant, and nutritive, just to name a few.

Dandelion’s Long Use in Medicine

A native of Eurasia, dandelion’s use as medicine dates back thousands of years. It was introduced into North America by the earliest of European settlers, who revered dandelion as a “cure-all” tonic that could be propagated quickly and easily to help heal and prevent virtually everything from scurvy to cancer. Not long after its introduction into the New World, knowledge of dandelion’s healing attributes spread throughout many of the Native American nations, and soon the persistent yellow flowers were blooming from coast to coast.

Dandelion became known by physicians as “the official remedy for disorders,” and was incorporated into the U.S. Pharmacopoeia as a broad spectrum tonic and diuretic medicine in 1831. There it remained as an important part of the American pharmacy for nearly 100 years – but eventually, like so many other medicinal plants, dandelion’s mainstream spotlight began to dim with the birth of allopathic “miracle drugs.” Dandelion the wonder herb soon became just another darned weed.

Although it’s largely lost to conventional Western medicine, dandelion remains popular in herbal preparations throughout the world, especially in Europe and Asia. Despite the fact that it’s more versatile than many trendy herbs, dandelion remains relatively obscure in the modern marketplace, perhaps by virtue of its weedy abundance.

Instead of embracing dandelion as a healing ally, society’s collective awareness remains centered on a futile urge to eradicate it, and today dandelion’s greatest contribution to the American economy remains in the sale of herbicide intended to kill it. It’s not being marketed as an “herbal sensation” – after all, why would an herb company spend an advertising fortune to promote a plant that grows from cracks in the sidewalk? Regardless of market appeal, dandelion is one of the first herbs to consider when choosing remedies for your herb cabinet, especially if you intend to gather and process your own medicines.

Dandelion as a Nutritive

To begin an accurate assessment of dandelion’s deep-reaching medicinal attributes, we must first put healing into a whole body perspective.

All higher organisms maintain vital body functions within tightly knit parameters of systemic cooperation. A precise and balanced relationship between nutrition and elimination of waste is a critical part of this cooperation, and if a systemic excess or deficiency occurs that the body cannot correct through elimination, supplementation, or immune system intervention, it will try to compensate by shutting down a system or storing waste materials wherever it can. In other words, a state of “dis-ease” results.

Enter dandelion, one of the most complete plant foods on earth. A one cup serving of fresh dandelion greens will provide as much as 2000 IUs of vitamin A (1½ times the RDA for an adult human); 20 percent protein (double of what spinach provides); vitamins C, K, D, and B-complex; iron; manganese; phosphorus; and many other trace minerals. It’s also a rich source of potassium, which I’ll discuss more below.

All of these vital nutrients are conveniently contained within a single source, in quantities that the body can fully absorb. This means that dandelion will gently supplement the diet without overworking the liver and kidneys with excess vitamins and minerals (this is often signified by dark urine), a problem that sometimes occurs with the use of high-dose vitamin supplements.

Dandelion as a Bitter Tonic

Dandelion leaves also possess what herbalists call a “bitter tonic” principle. Bitter tonics have been well-known for centuries in Europe and Asia, where dandelion and other bitter greens are commonly consumed before a meal to stimulate the secretion of digestive juices (this is how the dinner salad was born). The idea is to “warm up” digestive metabolism before we ask the digestive system to go to work. When a small amount of a bitter herb is taken into the mouth, a sudden increase of salivation occurs. Meanwhile, as the bitter herb reaches the stomach, bile and other digestive agents are triggered into production. This results in less indigestion, better absorption of nutrients, and increased appetite.

The bitter principle is no secret to animals. If you have an opportunity to watch a deer as it begins its day of feeding, you will likely see it nibble at a few bitter plants before turning to the forage it prefers. Even many domesticated dogs and cats nibble bitters when afforded the opportunity.

Bitters are particularly useful in animals who have a chronic problem with indigestion. If your companion has frequent gas and/or passes food that does not appear digested, get him to chew a fresh dandelion leaf, or apply a few drops of dandelion tincture (the type made with glycerin are most palatable) onto his tongue.

Dandelion as a Diuretic

Dandelion is a safe but powerful diuretic and liver stimulant. Diuretics promote urine elimination; normal urination is critical to health. The efficiency of diuresis (the elimination of excess water and systemic waste) can mean the difference between life and death. Congestive heart failure, pulmonary edema, arthritis, gall bladder disease, kidney stone – these are all imbalances resulting from the body’s inability to eliminate water and/or accumulated excesses.

In conventional veterinary practices, drugs such as furosemide (widely known under the brand name “Lasix”) are often used to pull excess fluid from the body and thus promote the elimination of accumulated waste materials. Pharmaceutical diuretics are fast-acting, easy to administer, and very effective, but they tend not to discriminate between what the body needs to keep and what it needs to lose. As a result of pharmaceutical diuretic therapy, the body often loses too much potassium – a crucial heart and brain chemical – through the urinary tract. In this event, potassium must be supplemented throughout the therapy.

Dandelion leaf, in contrast, contains its own rich source of fully assimilable potassium, which helps to replace what would otherwise be lost through urination.

Many contemporary herbalists (including medical researchers, physicians, and veterinarians) claim that when used as a strong tea, dandelion may be as effective as furosemide. And, unlike many other herbal diuretics that work largely by acid-induced kidney irritation, dandelion is very gentle and soothing to the kidneys.

The tradeoff is ease of administration and the time it may take for dandelion to start working. While furosemide can be administered in a little pill, a dandelion therapy involves getting your dog to drink warm tea or take a tincture extract (again, the aforementioned broth method works nicely).

NOTE: If your dog receives conventional pharmaceutical diuretic therapy, see a holistic veterinarian before seeking the dandelion alternative. But on the other hand, there’s no reason why your animal can’t benefit from dandelion’s replacement of potassium while eating it on his meals.

Dandelion is a Liver Tonic, Too

While dandelion’s leaves are very nutritive and diuretic, the root possesses its own usefulness as a safe, reliable liver tonic. The liver is the primary filtering organ of the body, responsible for removing toxins and excesses from the blood for elimination via the kidneys.

The liver also plays critical roles in digestion through its production of bile, bilirubin, and various enzymes. If bile ducts in the liver or gall bladder become congested, blocked, or otherwise diseased to the point of dysfunction, the body will invariably suffer one or more toxicity-related imbalances. Such imbalances may be characterized by symptoms such as jaundice, rheumatoid conditions, eczema, dandruff, or chronic constipation. And while dandelion leaf tea or tincture may help relieve the symptoms of such conditions through a nutritive/diuretic action, the root will work closer to the underlying causes.

Dandelion root has a proven ability to stimulate bile production and circulation throughout the liver. In one study involving dogs (bear in mind that I strongly oppose animal testing), researchers observed a three to four times increase in bile production after administration of dandelion root.

The gallbladder (which stores bile from the liver) is also stimulated, causing this small, hollow organ to contract and release bile into the digestive tract, thus aiding in digestion and acting as a gentle laxative to promote the elimination of solid waste. And in clinical studies using an over-the-counter preparation of the root, dandelion was shown to be effective in treating inflammatory diseases of the liver and gallbladder, including gallstones.

(But please remember: Most of these conditions are preventable, and improper diet is often the underlying cause. Although dandelion has been used successfully in the treatment of liver disease, it is best used at the onset of such conditions; and when adjustments to diet, environment, and the reduction of introduced toxins remains the primary course of therapeutic action. If your animal is in an advanced stage of liver or kidney disease, see your holistic veterinarian for guidance.)

Dandelion for Diabetes

The autumn-harvested root of dandelion is known to contain up to 40 percent inulin, a concentrated dietary fiber that is comprised chiefly of the carbohydrate (sugar) fructose. Inulin is easily assimilated by diabetics, and there is ample evidence to suggest it possesses insulin-like properties that may serve, at least to a limited degree, as an insulin substitute in insulin-dependent diabetic people and their animals.

Additionally, the fructose likely helps to maintain blood sugar levels, while the liver stimulating/diuretic actions of the root improves kidney function and the assimilation of needed nutrients. Many herbalists also believe that dandelion root strengthens pancreatic function; an action that may prove very beneficial in the maintenance of diabetic animals.

More Ways to Use Dandelion

Although not as powerful as goldenseal, dandelion does possess mild infection-fighting qualities and can be used as a gentle, soothing astringent/disinfectant wash. Unlike goldenseal, dandelion isn’t being wiped out in the wild by market demands. A weak decoction (a simmered tea) of dandelion leaves can be diluted in sterile saline (available in the eye care portion of your drugstore) and used as soothing eyewash for conjunctivitis and general eye irritations. Use ¼ teaspoon of the decoction diluted in one ounce of saline; a few drops in the eyes daily should bring relief. The solution will only keep for a few days, so mix it up sparingly.

The roots also have mild immunostimulant qualities – certainly not that of echinacea, but useful as the slight push to the immune system nonetheless. What dandelion lacks in the auto-immune department it makes up for in the form of powerful nutritive qualities. A well-fed body stands strong against infection.

The flowers of dandelion are known by herbalists to be high in lecithin and to have weak but useful analgesic qualities as well.

Identifying and Gathering Dandelion

Dandelion is frequently confused – even by experienced herbalists – with several other species of the sunflower family. And although we may hate to admit it, many of us have been fooled into using one of the look-alikes. The primary consideration to bear in mind when identifying Taraxacum officinale or any of its hundreds of variations is this: Dandelion has no branching characteristics, but instead grows in a rosette fashion, directly off of its taproot. And dandelion never has spines on its midrib, as does Lactuca serriola (“Prickly Lettuce”), which otherwise looks very similar when young. Although dandelion’s impostors likely won’t harm you, they won’t offer you dandelion’s benefits, either.

Gather dandelion greens in early spring for use in salads; they get bitter with age. Leaves intended for herbal teas and medicines can be gathered anytime, provided it is done in dry weather. Wet dandelions tend to develop mold while they are drying, so don’t wash them after picking! Shake them off and dry them on newspapers in a well-ventilated area, away from light. Then stir them often to prevent molding and store them in Zip-Loc bags only after they are completely, crispy dry. Gather the roots as late in fall as possible; this is when they contain the greatest concentration of beneficial constituents. Chop them up (I use a food processor), then spread them onto newspaper and dry with the same consideration you gave to the leaves.

If you wish to propagate dandelion (no, I’m not insane!), give them deep humus-rich soil, full sun, and be moderate with the water if you intend to use them for medicinal purposes. If table fare is your goal, give them lots of water and at least partial shade; this will produce larger, less bitter, tender leaves (but small roots). And you need not be a “closet” dandelion grower; organically farmed dandelion greens are showing up in health food markets and on gourmet menus everywhere. And they often sell for $3 or more per pound!

How to Use Dandelion

The first and foremost consideration in using dandelion as food or medicine is the cleanliness of the plants. Always make sure that the greens you feed have never been sprayed with herbicide. If they have, don’t try washing them; move on to another patch – you won’t have trouble finding more!

Aside from locating a clean source, supplementing your dog’s diet with dandelion is as simple as crumbling the dried greens onto his food. If that doesn’t work, or if you need to get nutrients into your animal more quickly, try making a leaf tea using organic, unsalted vegetable or meat broth in place of plain water. Plan on feeding your dog about a teaspoon of the dried herb for each 20 pounds of his body weight each day. If your companion is sensitive to changes in diet, then start him off with a little at a time.

When feeding dandelions to your dog, don’t forget yourself; dried dandelion greens can be used in place of parsley flakes, and the young fresh greens add a delicious bitter contrast to tossed salads. Try them with lemon.

A Safe Holistic Starting Point

Dandelion is “generally regarded as safe” by the FDA, and aside from any plant allergies, no toxicity or contraindications have been noted relative to its reasonable use.

All of what dandelion offers us plays directly into the entire scheme of what herbal medicines do best. Dandelion does not override the body’s functions, it gently assists them. When we use dandelion, we are not approaching the issues of nutrition and healing from a symptomatic approach (such as when we use dandruff shampoo for a symptom of liver dysfunction); we are addressing the whole body and what it needs to effectively heal itself. In short, dandelion is a very good whole body tonic.

In holistic healing, the first and foremost goal is to reestablish a state of harmonious balance within the body. To do this, everything must function as smoothly as possible. If the body is preoccupied with its duties to a congested liver, overworked kidneys, and a clogged, inefficient digestive tract, it cannot delegate enough healing energy elsewhere. Dandelion can help balance the body’s attention to these tasks. This plant is a persistent and forgiving ally that remains everywhere for us and our animal companions, just waiting to re-emerge as the guardian angel it truly is, despite everything we throw at it.

Greg Tilford serves as a consultant and formulator to hundreds of holistic veterinarians throughout the world, and is CEO of Animal’s Apawthecary, a company that develops herbal products specifically for use in animals.

 

The Best Life Jackets for Dogs

1

[Updated July 17, 2017]

CANINE FLOTATION DEVICE OVERVIEW

– All dogs on boats need a flotation device for safety.

– When spending time at a beach, river, or lake shore, keep a life jacket on water-phobic dogs, dogs who don’t swim well, and dogs who swim to the point of exhaustion.

– Make sure that any PFD you buy has flotation material under the dog’s chin, and fastens around and across his chest.

When someone first mentioned doggie life jackets to me, I’ll admit, I giggled. Dogs can swim just fine, for goodness sake.

But then I started thinking about it. Actually, I’ve known some awful canine swimmers. F.B., my sister’s Hound-mix, was one of those dogs. When I was a teenager, I used to take F.B. and my dog (F.B.’s son) to the Yuba River. She liked going with us, and she waded in willingly, but we had to swim alongside her and push and pull her across the river, or she’d bob in place, kind of like a cork. She wouldn’t sink, exactly, but she never quite figured out how to go anywhere, either.

life jackets for dogs

Then there was Bhakti, a genial Lab-mix belonging to a friend. No matter how much he swam, Bhakti looked like he was trying to climb out of the water. He kept his eyes squinted almost shut as a defense from the splashing his front paws made.

A life jacket, or “personal flotation device” (PFD) as the products are more accurately described today, would have undoubtedly helped F.B. and Bhakti. But poor swimmers are a rarity in the canine world. There are far more great swimmers who should be wearing lifejackets, too.

Any dog who accompanies humans on a water craft would benefit from a canine PFD. Dogs on sail boats, fishing boats, ski or race boats, and even canoes and whitewater rafts absolutely should have a life jacket on, for the same reason that even people who know how to swim should be wearing one – namely, that the conditions that caused the dog (or person) to fall into the water may also impair his swimming ability, or prevent his boating companions from getting him out of the water.

Accidents happen! And when a boat turns over, a dog can get hit on the head, injured by the boat, swept downstream, or knocked into rocks. If he’s wearing a life jacket, he’ll be kept floating long enough for someone to rescue him, even if he lost consciousness or the ability to swim.

Also, in the case of serious water accidents, any able person will surely be preoccupied with first rescuing the other human victims. A canine PFD gives a dog his best chance of surviving any maritime disaster.

Quality Life Jackets for Dogs

We rounded up every PFD for dogs we could find, including one that it was painful to spend money on, given its obvious inadequacies. We selected jackets in the “medium” size range, intending to use the same two 55-pound dogs to test each product. (Note: Tiny dogs – a group that might have greatest need of help in the water – are terrifically underserved by this product category.)

Our test dogs for this venture weigh the same amount, but are built quite differently. Paws, a Yellow Lab, is tall and lean, but with a deep chest. Jessie, a “shelter-mix,” is short and stocky, with a shorter body than Paws.

We were looking for products that were easy to put on even wet, wiggly dogs, and quick and easy to adjust for a secure fit. As the dogs walked around in the jackets, we also began to appreciate the designs that permitted easy and free movement, and were comfortable for the dogs whether they were swimming, running, sitting, or lying down.

whole dog journal rating scale

As is often the case when buying specialty products, we were not terribly concerned about the price of the jackets. We figure, if a person needs one for her dog, she needs a good one, and will be willing to pay for a product that works long and well.

We tested each jacket on two dogs, necessitating several adjustments to fit. Paws was the only swim-tester, but he did his job thoroughly, jumping into a lake and swimming extensively with each jacket. All of the products but one helped hold him higher in the water than he was when swimming naked. He quickly learned that he could just relax and float in place when wearing a PFD!

PFD Review Results

RuffWear’s K-9 Float Coat was one of our top two selections. An exceedingly well-made product, it was also easy to put on the dogs quickly, and easy to adjust. A three-inch by two-inch tab of Velcro on the buoyant chest strap holds the jacket in place while you clip the plastic buckles together – one across the dog’s front and two around the girth.

At first, we were concerned for the dogs’ comfort when lying down, since the plastic buckles on the girth straps fasten underneath the dog. However, the flaps that go under the dog are padded, so even if he’s lying on a lumpy buckle, it shouldn’t bother him; it didn’t seem to bother our dogs.

All the lifejackets we tested had handles on the back for lifting the dog out of the water if need be. The handle on the K-9 Float Coat was easy to grab and lift the dog with, and positioned far enough forward that when we lifted the dog out of the water, he didn’t tip nose-down. A plastic d-ring is sewn under the handle for attaching a dog’s leash.

The handle on our other top selection, Outward Hound’s Pet Saver Lifejacket, is positioned slightly too far back on the coat. When you lift the dog out of the water, his nose tips downward and, if he’s anything like our test Lab, he’ll start to struggle. The leash d-ring on this coat is easier to clip a leash onto, however.

As with all our recommended PFDs, the chest strap on the Pet Saver is filled with buoyant material, to help keep the dog’s chin out of the water. This strap also has Velcro and buckle fasteners on the chest strap.

The section of the jacket that wraps underneath the dog also has a wide swath of Velcro, which not only helps keep the coat in place while you are adjusting the straps, but also helps keep the coat fitting snugly while the dog is in the water. One of our “not recommended” products had a similar design but lacked the Velcro, making the coat float off the dog in the water.

A final nice touch: two thin strips of reflective material along the back of the coat would make it much easier to find the dog if you were conducting a night rescue.

We found this jacket in numerous retail and online pet supply stores, for a very low price in some places ($10 – $20 at www.petguys.com).

Second-Best

Northwest River Supplies dog life jacket

As its name suggests, Northwest River Supplies specializes in river rafting and kayaking equipment, so we had high hopes for its “CFD” (canine flotation device). Some of its features were clearly inspired by human PFD technology. The coat had a handy zippered pocket on the back, large enough to hold a dog’s leash or some other small amount of supplies. Reflective tape on the straps would assist rescuers at night. And each of the plastic buckles has a “keeper” strap sewn in such a way as to prevent accidental release of the buckles.

Unfortunately, that keeper strap also makes it somewhat difficult to unfasten the buckles when you want to. On a person’s PFD, this might be a great safety feature; on the dog’s jacket, it makes things harder.

We found the handle to be a bit small, and harder to grasp when lifting the dog out of the water. Also, this jacket has no buoyancy material under the dog at all; only the straps pass underneath. Our test dogs seemed to appreciate the fact that this jacket was easier to walk, sit, and lie down in, but it doesn’t seem to provide quite as much flotation as our top picks.

On the plus side, the leash ring is quite large and easy to clip onto. Also, NRS includes a figure for the amount of flotation that is provided by each size of its jacket, something that we don’t quite get, but expect experienced boaters to appreciate.

It’s clear that a lot of thought went into creating the Fido Float, and its designers chose to do pretty much everything different from other products in this category. We appreciated some of its innovations, but had other nits to pick.

The good news: This jacket provides lots of under-the-neck flotation, without interfering with the dog’s movement on land or in the water. Also, the part that goes under the dog is a strong net-like material, so the dog can lie down comfortably, without pads underneath him. Handles are positioned at the dog’s nape and near his tail, for easy removal from the water.

What we didn’t like: Having to put the dog’s paws through the jacket’s armholes, and then zip it up the dog’s back. It was much harder to get the dogs to cooperate with this design. Once on, however, it was easy to adjust the fit. Speaking of fit, these jackets are all very long. This would be problematic for short-bodied dogs.

Not Recommended

Lotus Designs is another maker of whitewater rafting equipment, but its handsome Critter PFD was a disappointment. An elastic loop is supposed to hold the jacket’s belly band in place, but this came loose within moments of swimming. Thanks to the straps, the jacket stayed on, but with the belly band floating alongside the dog – not how it’s meant to work.

The Fido Pet Safety Vest is altogether mystifying. A minimal design provides almost no flotation, none under the dog’s chin, and not even a single strap across the front of the dog’s chest to keep it in place. Since the hind ends of dogs naturally sink lower in the water than their front ends, the vest stayed in place in the water . . . but slipped toward the dog’s rear end every time he got out of the water and walked around. In other words, a waste of money, with no safety to offer.

The Canine Predatory Instinct

Canine predatory instincts can result in both desired and problem behaviors.
Credit: Christopher Furlong | Getty Images

[Updated January 10, 2019]

PREDATORY DRIVE OVERVIEW

1. Make a reasonable assessment of your dog’s level of predatory behavior, and manage his environment accordingly.

2. Diligently practice training exercises that will specifically address the chase behavior challenges that your dog is likely to present to you. Provide him with appropriate outlets for his predatory/chase behaviors.

3. Don’t ever allow him to be placed in a situation where his predatory instincts can threaten the life of another human, especially a child. You risk his life, too, if you do.

Tiffany approached me shortly before the start of her weekly training class recently, clearly distraught. “Newton did something very bad this week,” she said.

My heart skipped a beat as I glanced down at Newton, the black and white Border Collie/Basset mix sitting calmly by her side. In my dog trainer brain, “very bad” usually equates with serious aggression to humans. Newton and his vivacious, committed owner are two of my favorite clients, and I didn’t want to hear that Newton had done something irredeemable.

A black and white photo of a dog sniffing for prey.

“What did he do?” I asked.

“He chased and killed a bunny in my backyard!” Tiffany wailed. “My roommates and I were so upset. He dropped it immediately when I told him to, but it was too late, the bunny was dead!”

I breathed a silent sigh of relief, and reassured her that while I understood her distress, Newton’s behavior was natural and normal. Bassets were bred to chase rabbits, after all, and Border Collies were bred to chase things that move. More often than not when our dogs chase small beings like squirrels and rabbits, the little critters manage to escape. This poor bunny wasn’t so lucky, and Newton just did what dogs do.

Canine Predatory Instinct: Is It Aggression?

Our dogs’ predatory instincts are one of the things that makes them fun to play with. When you throw a ball or a stick and he chases it, you are triggering his natural predatory desire to chase things that move. In fact, some behaviorists argue that predatory behavior should not be called aggression at all – that it is more appropriately interpreted as a form of food-getting behavior.

Indeed, the motivation to chase prey objects is vastly different from other forms of aggression, which are based on competition for resources and/or self-protection. It is distinguished from other forms of aggression by a marked absence of “affective arousal” (anger), and is a social survival behavior, not a social conflict behavior. Predatory behavior is indicated by distinct behaviors: hunting (sniffing, tracking, searching, scanning, or waiting for prey); stalking; the attack sequence (chase, pounce/catch, shaking kill, choking kill); and post-kill consuming. The underlying motivation for chasing things that move is to eat them.

Dogs who challenge, bark, snarl, and chase skateboarders or joggers who pass the house are generally believed to be engaging in territorial aggression – individual predators don’t usually openly advertise their intent by making lots of noise (although anyone who has ever followed a pack of baying hounds knows that group hunting can be quite noisy!). Dogs who hide in ditches or behind bushes and silently launch their attack on unsuspecting passers-by are exhibiting more classic predator behavior. However, the frustration of restraint on a chain or behind a fence combined with constant exposure to the trigger of rapidly moving prey objects can push a dog from predatory behavior to real aggression. Both behaviors, of course, are dangerous.

Just because predatory behavior is natural doesn’t mean that it’s acceptable in its inappropriate manifestations. It was not acceptable to Tiffany and her roommates for Newton to chase and kill a bunny, and it certainly wasn’t acceptable to the rabbit. Predatory behavior has been responsible for the death of many unfortunate pet cats, rabbits, chickens, sheep, goats, and other livestock, and even humans. While it often can be expressed in harmless, even useful outlets such as games of fetch, retrieving ducks, and herding sheep, chase behavior can be dangerous to dog and prey alike. It is our responsibility, as caretakers for our canine companions, to be sure their natural predatory instincts don’t get them into trouble.

It’s in the Genes

It should come as no surprise that some breeds seem to have a much stronger predatory instinct than others. Dogs who were purposely bred over the centuries to chase and kill small animals are much more likely candidates for strong chase behavior than those with enhanced genes for lap-sitting. While there are exceptions in every breed and group, and any individual dog from Chihuahuas to Newfoundlands can display predatory behavior – or not; in general the following dogs are exceptionally likely to display strong predatory behavior:

■ Herding breeds (such as Border Collies, Kelpies, Australian Shepherds, Cattle Dogs, etc.)

■ Sporting breeds (Retrievers, Spaniels, Setters, Pointers, etc.)

■ Hounds (Beagles, Bassets, Bloodhounds, Coonhounds, Greyhounds, Salukis, etc.)

■ Terriers (Jack Russells, Scotties, Westies, Rat Terriers, Bull Terriers, etc.,)

■ Northern breeds (Huskies, Malamutes, etc.)

■ Wolf hybrids

Interestingly, because of the specialized purposes for which these dogs have been bred, many of these breeds will display parts of the predatory sequence of behaviors more strongly than others. The herding breeds have a strong stalk and chase behavior, but the kill-and-consume part of the sequence has been greatly inhibited. Sporting breeds are strong on sniffing, scanning, watching, and grabbing, but again, have been bred not to actually destroy the prey – they are supposed to gently bring it back.

The hounds are split into two groups. The scent hounds are built low to the ground, with long ears to catch scent particles. These dogs are very big on the sniffing and chasing aspects of the sequence. They may sometimes actually catch and kill, but it’s not their primary purpose. The sight hounds, on the other hand, are long-legged to enhance their ability to scan – to look for prey rather than finding it by smell – and to run after it, fast, when they see it.

Terriers have had the grab-and-kill part of the predatory sequence genetically enhanced, giving them a well-deserved reputation for a pugnacious personality. Their owners didn’t just want them to find the rats in the barn; they really wanted the dogs to kill the rats. Or, historically, in the sad case of the Pit Bull Terrier, people wanted the fighting Terriers to kill any opposing dog.

The Northern breeds have been the least genetically manipulated, which is why, in part, they most closely resemble their wolf ancestors. Thus they, and the unfortunate Wolf hybrid, are most likely to display the complete predatory sequence.

Manage Your Predator

As with so many other undesirable dog behaviors, if your dog has a strong prey drive, your first line of defense is management. Make sure you have a secure fence from which your dog cannot escape. Don’t leave him in the yard unattended if he will be constantly tantalized by lots of fast-moving prey objects, such as squirrels, deer, skateboarders, small children running and playing.

Use leashes and long lines to prevent your dog from taking off after deer, rabbits, and squirrels when you are on walks and hikes. Especially keep him on leash at dawn and dusk, when the deer and the antelope – and other small, wild things – are most likely to play. Look for ways to minimize his visual and physical access to prey in his own yard – a solid fence will prevent him from seeing things moving quickly by, and will prevent many potential prey animals (including small children) from entering easily. A non-visible underground electronic fence will not. Nor will a non-visible fence necessarily prevent him from leaving the yard if he is highly motivated to chase prey.

A muzzle can also be useful on a limited basis. Since muzzles restrict a dog’s ability to drink water and pant normally, you cannot leave one on your dog while you are away all day at work. But if he’s devastating the squirrel population in your backyard, or you want to give a litter of baby bunnies a chance to grow up and get wiser and faster, you can put a muzzle on him for brief fresh air/potty trips to the yard. Be sure to take time to desensitize him to wearing a muzzle first, by associating it with yummy treats while you put it on him for gradually longer periods of time.

Training for Instinct

You will never train most herding dogs not to chase things that move, given the chance. Similarly, you’d be hard pressed to convince many terriers not to go after rats and other small creatures when the opportunity arises. Their brains are hardwired to chase, and you can’t change that.

A slightly less imposing goal is to change the predatory response into an incompatible behavior response. For example, you could teach your Border Collie that the appearance of a deer is the cue to lie down. She can’t “down” and “chase the deer” at the same time. Or, as we taught our own Scottie, the appearance of your kitten could be the cue for your dog to sit at your feet. This type of training can be difficult because the dogs are so highly motivated to chase – it is quite a challenge to convince them that they’d rather do something else. You must find something highly rewarding in order to make it work. For our Scottie, it was food. For a Border Collie, it might be the opportunity to chase a tennis ball – after she lies down – instead of the deer.

This approach works best in your presence, and only if you practice it regularly rather than just expecting it to work in the heat of the moment. Although we are quite comfortable leaving our now-grown kitten alone with Dubhy, it was several months and several pounds worth of kitten-growth before we stopped shutting her in her own room when we weren’t there to supervise. You might not ever be able to expect that your Border Collie will leave the deer (or the skateboarders) alone if she is outside, unrestrained, and left to her own devices.

A solid foundation of good manners training can also be helpful, combined with vigilance on your part. If you are out hiking with Bess and see the deer before she does, you can call her to you and snap the leash on. Even if she sees it first, a really reliable recall will bring her back to your side, especially if you call her pre-launch, before she is headed hell-bent-for-leather after the fleeing deer.

A well-trained emergency “Down!” can also save the day, even if your dog is in full stride. Many dogs will “Down!” even when they won’t “Come!” because they can still watch the prey. Stopping the charge gives the dog’s arousal level and adrenaline time to recede, and you may be able to call her back from the “down” or calmly walk up to her and snap her leash on her collar.

Dangers of Thwarting

Dogs who have strong, hardwired behaviors are usually happiest if they are allowed to engage in those behaviors in some form. Greyhounds chase mechanical rabbits on the track – and while we abhor the abuse that is rampant in the Greyhound industry, there is no question that the dogs love to run and chase. Jack Russell Terriers are in heaven when they get to play in Earthdog trials. Our Australian Kelpie, Katie, gets a huge charge out of running circles around our horses in the pasture, even though they are impervious to her attempts to direct their movement.

In fact, if hardwired behaviors are constantly thwarted (prevented from occurring), you risk having your dog develop compulsive disorders. A canine compulsive disorder (CCD) is a normal coping behavior that becomes exaggerated to the degree that it is harmful to the dog. Some common examples are excessive licking, spinning, and tail-chasing. Some dogs are genetically predisposed to CCD, but it usually takes an environmental trigger – stress – to cause the behavior to erupt. The breeds known to have a high prey drive (see sidebar, “It’s in the Genes”) are often the most susceptible to developing stereotypical spinning behavior when kept in high-stress kennel environments.

If you are the owner of a dog with strong predatory inclinations, it behooves you both to find an outlet for the behavior rather than simply trying to shut it off. Encourage your dog to chase and fetch balls, sticks, and toys, and take the time to engage in several fetch sessions with him per day.

Use these strong reinforcers to incorporate training in your play sessions and strengthen your dog’s good manners. If your dog rudely jumps up and tries to grab the Frisbee from your hand, whisk it behind your back until he sits, then bring it out again, and only throw it if he remains sitting until you throw. You are using two of the four principles of operant conditioning here. The dog’s behavior – jumping up – makes the Frisbee go away, which is “negative punishment” – the dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away. When he sits and stays sitting, you throw the Frisbee. This is “positive reinforcement” – the dog’s behavior makes a good thing happen. Works like a charm.

If you have a Terrier, provide an outlet for his prey-seeking behavior by creating a digging spot – a box filled with soft soil or an area you have dug up where he is allowed to dig. Bury his favorite toys and encourage him to “Find it!” Toys that squeak and wiggle are especially suited to Terrier games.

Come Chase with Me!

One of the most useful applications of chase behavior is in conjunction with teaching your dog to come when called. Lots of dog owners make the mistake of moving toward their dogs – or even chasing after them – when they won’t come. In dog language, a direct frontal approach is assertive, even aggressive, and dogs naturally move away from it.

It’s much more effective to do the exact opposite – run away from your dog! Start playing chase/recall games when your dog is a pup. Get excited, call your pup, and run a short distance away. Let him catch up to you while you are still facing away from him, then turn sideways, kneel down (don’t bend over him), praise him, feed him a treat or play with a tug or fetch toy, and pet him (if he enjoys being petted; not all dogs do). If your dog is no longer a pup, you can still play this game to strengthen his response to the Come! cue.

Teach your dog from early on that “Come!” means “Chase me and play,” keep up the games as he matures, manage him so he doesn’t get to practice inappropriate predatory behavior, and find acceptable outlets for his natural chase behaviors. Using these tactics, you’ll have a much better chance of getting those incompatible behaviors later on when you are faced with the challenge of competition from real prey.

What About the Baby?

One of the very real concerns I hear expressed from new or soon-to-be parents is that of the family dog’s predatory behavior being elicited by the baby. There is some evidence to support the belief that at least some dogs may view an infant more as a prey object than as a little human. New babies move strangely, and make funny noises that can resemble prey distress sounds.

The Centers for Disease Control in Atlanta, Georgia, published figures from the 25 dog bite-related fatalities in the two-year period from 1995 through 1996. Of those 25 deaths, 20 of the victims were children (80 percent). Three of the children were less than 30 days old, one was under five months, and 10 were from one to four years old. The remaining six child victims were under 11 years old.

It is likely that the three neonates and perhaps the five-month- old baby were victims of prey-related behavior, while the others were at least as likely to have somehow elicited a true social conflict/aggression attack.

I strongly recommend that all parents-to-be, but especially owners of dogs with strong predatory behavior who plan to bring an infant into the home, work with a trainer/behaviorist to desensitize the dog to the sights and sounds of a baby, and to create a good training and management plan to ensure that Fido and Junior will be comfortable with each other.

There are CDs and audio tapes of baby noises available to help with this process, which can be used to teach the dog that a baby’s cries are the cue to lie down on his bed – or do a Lassie trick and go get Mom or Dad.

It goes without saying that dogs should never be left alone with infants and young children, but that warning goes triple for dogs who have demonstrated any propensity toward predatory behavior. A family dog mauling or killing a child is a horrible tragedy that just doesn’t have to happen.

Note: “Sound Sensibilities: Babies CD” is an excellent desensitization resource created by dog trainer Terry Ryan.

Upgrading to a Pasture-Fed Dog Food Diet

by CJ Puotinen The foundation of nearly every home-prepared diet for dogs is animal-source protein, such as beef, lamb, chicken, turkey, dairy products, or eggs. These foods are so abundant in our supermarkets that we take them for granted and assume they are nutritious. After all, our scientists, public health officials, and medical experts make no distinction between food produced by animals raised outdoors on open pasture and that of animals raised in confinement on factory farms.

 

But you are what you eat, as the saying goes, and the difference between the meat of factory-raised animals and animals that dine on open pasture is dramatic. Many holistic veterinary health practitioners routinely recommend that their patients eat animal origin products only if they are organic and pasture-fed or free-range. Problems with factory-farmed Almost 90 percent of America’s farm animals live on factory farms, where, instead of green grass, they eat packaged foods that may contain ingredients they were never designed to consume, such as corn and soybeans – or, for roughage in the mixed feed, ground-up phone books, plastic pot scrubbers, or stale-dated chewing gum, complete with wrappers. Overcrowding, a lack of sunlight and fresh air, the routine application of drugs and pesticides, inactivity, and stress weaken their immune systems, make them susceptible to infections and chronic illnesses, soften their bones, and reduce the quality of their meat and eggs. Feedlot cattle are routinely treated with dewormers like Dectomax, Ivermectin, and other systemic pesticides, which are supposed to leave the animals after six months but residues of which can remain in their fat for much longer. Additional toxins migrate to fat cells, while others, such as heavy metals, collect in the bones. Of all the cows that are culled and taken to slaughter, only five percent (1 in 20) have livers that can be salvaged, for the high protein levels of soy-based feed damage the bovine liver. Virtually all animals raised in confinement are given antibiotics to keep them alive and encourage weight gain, hormones to regulate their growth and reproductive cycles, seven-way combination vaccines, and steroids to stimulate growth. Drug residues concern health experts because they encourage the development of drug-resistant bacteria and can adversely affect human health. Athletes who consumed factory-farmed chicken have failed urine tests for steroid drugs, and medical journals have documented the adverse effects of hormone-treated chicken on children. “Confinement operations could not make a profit if their animals were subject to strict health standards,” says Sally Fallon, director of the Weston A. Price Foundation, an organization that advocates a return to nontoxic farming methods and the consumption of whole foods. “Cows with mastitis are milked anyway. Poultry inspectors used to condemn all birds with air sacculitus, a disease that causes yellow fluids and mucus to break up into the lungs. Today, many of these birds are approved.” Factory-farmed hens suffer from “caged layer fatigue,” a form of osteoporosis caused by a lack of fresh air and sunshine combined with the mineral-depleting demands of constant egg laying. Despite being fed calcium supplements, bone fractures and paralysis are common. Forced molting, in which hens are deprived of food and water to shock them into starting a new egg-laying cycle, is banned in Great Britain but common in North America. Broiler hens are fed growth hormones, antibiotics, and animal byproducts, including condemned and diseased parts. Animal health advocate Michael W. Fox, DVM, warns that intensive confinement systems produce food-borne diseases that ultimately affect humans and benefit only the pharmaceutical and medical industries. Chickens and turkeys can be sold as “free-range” if they have USDA-certified access to the outdoors for five minutes per day. But the term “range,” a synonym for pasture, has lost its meaning, as there are no criteria for the outdoor area’s size, environmental quality, or space allowed per bird. All too often, factory-farmed free-range birds live in crowded conditions on gravel or concrete with no access to grass of any kind and little, if any, access to the outdoors. These birds are debeaked (a procedure that impairs their ability to preen and eat normally) and live in unnatural social isolation rather than in family groups. Cancer is so common that commercially raised animals are accepted for human consumption after their tumors are removed. Fewer inspectors and faster assembly lines make even the most cursory inspections difficult or impossible. Many supermarket chickens are infected with salmonella, and beef is frequently recalled because of E. coli contamination. Federal officials respond to these problems by allowing drug manufacturers to supervise the testing of their own animal drugs in order to complete the approval process as quickly as possible, raising questions about safety and effectiveness. To treat salmonella, E. coli, and other pathogens in meat products, they recommend formaldehyde rinses, chlorine rinses, and irradiation. These treatments apply to meat and poultry sold for human consumption, the “best” that modern agriculture has to offer. Fortunately, a revolution is brewing, and it’s one that may remedy the ills of modern food production. Farmers and ranchers are rediscovering the benefits of pasture feeding, and because the animals they grow are significantly healthier than animals raised in confinement, their meat, bones, organs, and eggs are significantly better for people and dogs. Healthful farms Milton Rodewald raises chickens, turkeys, ducks, geese, sheep, pigs, and cattle in upstate New York at Thistle Downes, a fast-growing farm that has been free since 1997 of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, or other agricultural chemicals. As a result of efficient management, the land’s vegetation is rich in vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients, and the farm produces only a fraction of the runoff and erosion that plague conventional farms.

 

“Some of our customers are people with severe chemical sensitivities,” says Rodewald. “If they eat commercially raised meat or poultry, they get physically ill. Now I’m starting to hear from people whose dogs have the same problem. We’re happy to save extra bones, organs, and chicken feet for them, and occasionally someone buys whole lambs or chickens for their dogs.” Like many producers of pasture-fed animals, Rodewald has mixed feelings about applying for organic certification under new USDA regulations. “That’s partly because of the expense and paperwork,” he says, “but it’s mostly because our methods are so far beyond what the government requires for organic certification that we consider organic and free-range to be misleading labels. I call our methods ‘beyond organic.’ ” Open-door policy Thistle Downes is open to customers, who can pick up orders in person or at farmers’ markets. “I encourage people to visit,” says Rodewald. “Every step of our operation, from the way we improve the soil to the way we constantly move the animals to fresh pasture, maintain their health with natural methods, and process them humanely, is out in the open for all to see.” Unlike ruminants, chickens require grain in addition to pasture for optimum health. Rodewald grinds fresh grain every day, having found that his chickens’ improved health makes the effort cost-effective. “If you raise birds in confinement,” he explains, “with limited access to a crowded outdoor pen, and feed them rancid grain and returned, stale baked goods from a certified organic bakery, no one will question your organic free-range label. But their health and the quality of their meat and eggs will be completely different from that of chickens raised on pasture and freshly ground grain. To the consumer the health benefits are a plus, but it’s the flavor that makes our meat, poultry, and eggs so popular.” If people can taste the difference, imagine pasture-fed meat from our dogs’ perspective. “Grocery store meat gets a brief sniff and mild interest,” says Sarah Wilson-Kilcommons, author of Good Owners, Great Dogs and other books. “But when local hunters drop meat off, my normally well-behaved group loses their collective mind. They try to dive into the bag and they gulp down every tidbit with primal efficiency and enthusiasm. There is definitely something different about ‘real’ meat.” Tennessee rancher Jenny Drake, whose Peaceful Pastures farm ships beef, pork, lamb, goat, chicken, duck, and turkey to customers throughout the country, gives credit for the health of her dogs to their simple diet of raw milk and raw meat. In addition, Drake feeds them organs, which have little commercial value but which are rich in beneficial bacteria, enzymes, vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients. Drake, like Rodewald, raises chickens in portable grazing pens in open, grassy fields. The pens provide fresh air, room for exercise, and protection from predators in addition to the benefits of fresh pasture. “All of our animals have comfortable, relaxed lives, maintaining their natural social structure,” says Drake. “Their immune systems are strong, and they don’t suffer from the diseases, parasites, lameness, and stress that affect factory-farmed animals.” Like many small farms, Peaceful Pastures processes its own poultry and transports other animals to a nearby processing plant. “We time the loading and departure to make this as stress-free as possible,” says Drake. “Our cattle are never herded into large trucks and shipped long distances, nor do we withhold food and water, which is another common practice.” The down side of pasture-fed meat, poultry, and eggs is that they are more expensive than their factory-farmed counterparts and, when applicable, shipping costs add to the expense. Suzanne Clothier, author of Bones Would Rain from the Sky and other books about dogs, raises Scottish Highland cattle, chickens, turkey, eggs, vegetables, fruit, and hay at her Hawks Hunt Farm in upstate New York. Like many pastured farms, Hawks Hunt participates in a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) Subscription Farming program through which customers place orders. “I’d love to feed our dogs nothing but pasture-fed meat,” says Clothier, “but that would require far more animals than we now raise, complete with the expense and effort that would involve, plus a staggering amount of freezer space. “I wish more people understood how meat animals are raised, the economics and scheduling of such, their life cycles, and the limitations small farms have. When customers call to ask for 50 pounds of liver or 100 pounds of chicken necks, they have no idea how many dead cows or chickens that represents. Most people know very little about their own food, never mind their dogs’ food.” Managing the cost To make food for dogs more affordable, some farms have pet specials. In addition to offering Peaceful Pastures “pet coolers,” Jenny Drake notifies customers when she plans to cull an older cow, goat, steer, or sheep, selling the custom-butchered animal at a deep discount. At Sojourner Sheep in Massachusetts, Diane Roeder sells lamb and mutton for pet consumption. “That lowers the price,” she explains, “because the yield is greater.” In Missouri, veterinarian Patricia Whisnant sells meaty bones, organs, and ground beef for dogs. Her American Grassfed Beef Web site provides extensive information on the BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Foods) diet and offers free shipping on pet food specials. Some farms, such as Simply Grazin’ in New Jersey, schedule free or inexpensive truck deliveries. Staying in touch with farmers and sharing orders with friends has helped many caretakers improve their dogs’ diets.

 

Real milk The same comparisons that apply to factory-farmed and pasture-fed meat and eggs apply to milk. Raw colostrum from pasture-fed cows and goats, recommended by holistic veterinarians as a potent immune system tonic, and raw cow or goat whey, a cheesemaking byproduct that is easy to digest and rich in beneficial bacteria, are popular extras for those who can find them. So is raw butter, a traditional food that improves health by providing fat-soluble vitamins; short- and medium-chain fatty acids that stimulate the immune system and protect against disease; glycospingolipids, which prevent intestinal distress; and conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which helps protect against cancer and heart disease. Milk from pasture-fed cows contains five times more CLA and twice the omega-3 fatty acids and beta-carotene of milk from cows fed a commercial dairy diet. To find a pasture-fed dairy or goat farm, check the resources listed here as well as farmers’ markets and health food stores. Peaceful Pastures ships a variety of pasture-fed dairy products for pets. Fish facts The problems stemming from factory-farmed animals are not unique to furry and feathered species. Wild-caught fish is the finned equivalent of pasture-fed meat, but most of America’s salmon, trout, halibut, mussels, oysters, and other food fish are farmed in crowded open-net cages set up in the ocean or fresh water. Fish farms often use large quantities of antibiotics and pesticides to control disease, and parasites proliferate. Researchers blame farmed fish for human exposure to antibiotic-resistant bacteria, dioxin, and PCBs, as well as possible retinal damage from the ingestion of color additives. “Farmed fish is nutritionally worthless,” says Sally Fallon, who contrasts its low vitamin and mineral content to that of wild-caught fish. “In addition, fish farms create an ecological nightmare, with escaping fish spreading disease or replacing wild species and raw sewage waste causing serious pollution.” For your fish-loving dog and for your own improved health, look for wild-caught fish and avoid farmed fish. Check with vendors about the source. Unless wild-caught Pacific salmon or farmed fish of any kind has been tested for parasites, it is probably safer cooked than raw. Also With This Article Click here to view “Pasture-Fed Animals Provide Healthier Meat and Dairy Products For Your Dog”.” Click here to view “Raw Food Dog Recipes”

Mad Cow in Dog Food?

by Nancy Kerns

There is no evidence that dogs can contract “mad cow disease” from eating food that was made from the rendered remains of an infected cow, say authorities from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA). Nor is there any evidence that people could contract the disease from a dog who ate dry dog food made from infected meat.

These concerns spread like wildfire among dog owners upon hearing the news that the rendered remains of a Canadian cow determined to have bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) ended up in dog food sold in the U.S. Humans cannot contract BSE. However, evidence suggests that a similar human disease, variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease (vCJD), a degenerative, fatal brain disorder first seen in 1994, can be caused by eating beef products contaminated with central nervous system tissue of BSE-infected cattle. There is no evidence that dogs can contract BSE or BSE-like diseases from eating BSE-infected meat products, but some felid species (including domestic and captive wild cats) have been shown to contract BSE-like diseases from eating BSE-infected meat.

BSE was first seen in cattle in 1986. Because of the long incubation period for both BSE and vCJD (up to 10 years) and because BSE appears to have evolved as a mutation from scrapie, an endemic spongiform encephalopathy of sheep and goats, fears that the diseases could be transmitted in as-yet unknown ways and/or to new species cannot be put completely to rest.

Close to home
The eight-year-old cow at the center of the recent BSE scare was sick with pneumonia when she was slaughtered on January 31, 2003. A meat inspector from the Alberta Agriculture, Food, and Rural Development (AAFRD) department declared the cow’s carcass unfit for human consumption, and ordered a sample of the cow’s brain tissue to be taken – not because BSE was suspected (it wasn’t); routine surveillance testing for BSE calls for a certain percentage of all slaughtered cattle to be tested. The carcass was diverted to a rendering plant.

It took more than three months before the tissue sample was actually tested for BSE. On May 16, the CFIA was notified of preliminary test results indicating possible BSE; additional tests confirmed the results.

The CFIA immediately launched a two-pronged investigation to determine where the cow came from and where it went.

Looking backward
Immediately before she was slaughtered, the BSE-positive cow lived in Alberta. Investigators “depopulated” the cattle in the infected cow’s herd, as well as other herds that the cow had lived with on other ranches. (Only a test of a dead cow’s brain tissue can confirm a case of BSE.) Test results were negative for BSE in all the cattle.

The CFIA also placed 17 additional herds of cattle under quarantine: 11 herds that the infected cow lived with previously, three herds that have contained the infected cow’s offspring, and three herds that have been determined to have been fed the same feed as the infected cow. Two of the quarantined herds are located in Saskatchewan, 12 are in Alberta, and three are in British Columbia. In addition, a goat herd that may have been fed the same feed as the infected cow’s herd has also been quarantined.

Although great strides have been made to trace the BSE-positive cow to her origin, as WDJ goes to press, the mixed-breed cow’s birthplace has not yet been determined. Genetic tests are being conducted to try to determine her origin. Six years ago, Canada instituted an animal identification program that facilitates tracing food animals; this cow pre-dates the system.

None of the quarantined animals have shown any signs of the disease; however, the BSE-positive cow did not exhibit signs of BSE at time of her slaughter, either.)

Following forward
The CFIA traced the remains of the infected cow to a manufacturing plant, Champion Pet Food, in Morinville, Alberta. Initial reports from the CFIA stated that the lot of meat and bone meal containing the infected cow’s remains had ended up in chicken feed. This feed is being traced, and cattle that live on farms where the chicken feed was sent have been placed under quarantine.

Later, it was determined that the same lot of meat and bone meal had also been used in two dry dog foods for an American company, Pet Pantry International, of Carson City, Nevada, sometime between February 4, 2003, and March 12, 2003.

Pet Pantry is voluntarily recalling the foods. This action is being described as a precaution to prevent discarded dog food from getting mixed with feed for cattle, goats, or sheep; all ruminants are at risk of contracting BSE if they eat BSE-infected meat products.

Customers who purchased Canine Maintenance Diet with a “use by” date of “17FEB04” or Canine Beef with Barley with a “use by” date of “05MAR04” from Pet Pantry since February should check their supplies. If found, consumers are instructed to call the company at (800) 381-7387. The company’s foods are shipped directly to consumers, and the company is using its sales records to contact consumers.

Ready to switch to grass-fed?
The preponderance of evidence thus far suggests that cattle get BSE only by eating feed containing central nervous system tissue from infected cattle, and that most humans get vcJD by eating meat products containing BSE-infected tissues.

These facts alone make grass-fed beef that much more alluring, for both human consumption and for feeding to our dogs. To date, neither BSE nor vCJD have been seen in dogs, but less than 20 years ago, the diseases had not seen in cows or humans, either.

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Informing? Or Selling?

A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”