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Securing Seacure

Seacure for dogs is a whitefish derived supplements.
Credit: Boy_Anupong | Getty Images

Can you imagine a food so easy to assimilate that even the most impaired digestive tract absorbs it on contact?

Now imagine that this food speeds the healing of wounds throughout the body, repairs digestive organs, alleviates nausea and vomiting, stops diarrhea, supports the liver during detoxification, reduces the side effects of chemotherapy and possibly helps prevent or reverse cancer, prevents toxemia in pregnancy, rescues newborns from Fading Puppy Syndrome, helps elderly dogs maintain their strength and stamina, helps all dogs recover from chronic and acute illness, stimulates hair growth, reduces urinary tract infections, reduces or eliminates allergic reactions, prevents hot spots, improves mobility, reduces pain, and even enhances the effectiveness of homeopathy and herbal therapies.

That miracle food exists, and dogs love its taste. They should. It’s an odoriferous powder made from fermented fish.

Seacure was Invented to Combat Hunger

Forty years ago, scientists at the University of Uruguay, who were searching under the direction of the U.S. National Academy of Sciences for a way to feed starving children, perfected a fermentation technology that predigested fish, creating a highly absorbable protein supplement. Fresh, deep-sea whitefish fillets were broken down by marine microorganisms, then dried to create a fine powder.

During the 1970s and 1980s, physicians in Uruguay and adjacent countries used the formula to save the lives of thousands of premature, underweight, or malnourished infants. In clinical studies, these infants showed significant improvement in weight and immunity factors (globulin and gamma globulin levels) within 30 to 60 days. No premature infants receiving the fish formula developed edema. When other infants developed edema, use of the formula caused its disappearance within 48 to 72 hours.

Uruguayan researchers tested a combination of two-thirds mother’s milk and one-third fermented fish powder for premature infants and found that the fish powder improved assimilation and weight gain. The researchers reported a “most remarkable” disappearance of dysergia (lack of motor control due to defective nerve transmission) in cases of dystrophy. When given to pregnant women, the supplement was also found to be very effective in promoting normal birth weights (preventing low birth weights).

When the fish supplement was fed to babies who were allergic to milk or had other food allergies, their allergic reactions disappeared, along with symptoms such as acute and chronic diarrhea or blood-based immune disorders. Soon physicians were documenting health benefits for patients with all kinds of illnesses. However, when the formula’s key developer died, production stopped.

Donald G. Snyder, Ph.D., then director of a Fisheries Research Laboratory at the University of Maryland and a member of a U.S. National Research Council committee on protein supplements, formed a partnership to obtain the technology and produce the powder, which he named Seacure®.

Seacure, which is made from Pacific whiting caught in the Pacific Northwest, contains beneficial omega-3 fatty acids and other fish nutrients, but its amino acids and peptides (the fundamental constituents of protein) are its primary healing ingredients.

(EDITOR’S NOTE: Proper Nutrition, Inc. is the maker of Seacure® and licences its use in other supplements. Still other supplement makers manufacture and sell similar biologically hydrolyzed whitefish products. All of the product studies and research referred to in this article were conducted using Seacure®.)

Seacure is a Different Kind of Protein

Most protein supplements sold in the United States contain ingredients that can be difficult to digest and assimilate, such as meat, animal skins, milk, eggs, or soy. Dr. Snyder (who recently passed away) felt these proteins were inferior sources for supplements.

“Often,” he explained, “these raw ingredients are contaminated or of low quality, such as rejected eggs or excess milk, or they are processed using harsh physical or chemical methods. Severe drying methods are often used, resulting in a deterioration in the final protein quality. And protein from the byproducts of processing may be of questionable value to begin with. The key thing is the quality of a supplement’s protein and the pre-digestion factor that makes it available to the body.”

All proteins are formed from long chains of compounds called amino acids. The body (both human and canine) can synthesize or manufacture some amino acids, but others are called essential because the body cannot manufacture them and they must be provided by protein in the diet. This use of the word “essential” can be confusing, for many amino acids are necessary for optimum health, but only those that must be provided by protein in food are called essential.

The World Health Organization established a model or ideal balance of the essential amino acids (isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, cysteine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, threonine, tryptophane, and valine) in terms of milligrams of amino acid per gram of protein. The value of the protein provided by Seacure exceeds the model in every category. In addition, the quality of its raw materials exceeds that of other protein supplements, and its assimilation requires no digestive effort from the dogs and people who take it.

Seacure for Dogs

At Proper Nutrition, Inc., the company he founded, Dr. Snyder worked closely with marketing director Barry Ritz in research and development. “We receive many reports from veterinarians,” says Ritz, “indicating that Seacure’s benefits are as dramatic for dogs as they are for people.”

For example, he explains, malnourished, premature puppies have no ability to handle intact, complex protein. Seacure’s predigested protein can literally save their lives. In addition, it nourishes growing puppies, adult dogs, and any animals with malabsorption problems, such as sick or elderly dogs.

“It is no exaggeration,” Ritz observes, “to say that any dog of any age can benefit from Seacure’s high-quality predigested protein. The results, which are cumulative, include everything from improved wound healing to a thicker, glossier coat; a calmer disposition; improved digestion; and improvements in coordination, stamina, range of motion, and athletic performance.”

According to Ritz, veterinarians and dog owners report that doses of 6 to 12 capsules a day cause shaved fur to grow back in record time, broken bones and other wounds to heal quickly, and ailments like allergies, diarrhea, and inflammatory bowel disease to improve or completely disappear. Even dogs with autoimmune disorders like lupus have regained their mobility and appetite. Some owners report pigment corrections or a reduction in an older animal’s gray hairs.

“Seacure also helps dogs with diabetic leg ulcers and other slow-healing wounds. It speeds recovery from surgery, bite wounds, cuts, abrasions, burns, pulled muscles, and sports injuries. Dogs in obedience or agility class are more attentive as well as more efficient in their movements. And dogs with arthritis or joint pain just keep improving,” Ritz says.

Most dogs tolerate Seacure well. Dogs with kidney disease, for which low-protein diets are often recommended, should not have a problem because Seacure is already predigested and does not add stress to the kidneys.

The levels of mercury contained in Seacure are below the threshold of detection in mercury toxicity tests, 0.01 parts per million.

Understanding Detoxification

In our polluted world, detoxification has become a health buzz word. Like people, dogs are said to benefit from supplements and dietary changes that stimulate the removal of chemical residues, stored toxins, and stagnant wastes.

But too-rapid detoxification can be painful as well as harmful. Symptoms such as nausea, vomiting, dizziness, confusion, overwhelming fatigue, and skin eruptions such as hot spots often accompany rapid weight loss, the switch from commercial pet food to a raw, home-prepared diet, the use of herbs and supplements that cleanse the liver and blood, the acute phase of any illness, treatment with conventional drugs, treatment for parasites, or exposure to environmental toxins.

We often forget that detoxification is an ongoing body process. It never stops. If the body receives the nutrients it needs to break down and remove waste products well, it maintains itself in a state of health. If the process is impaired, health suffers. Unfortunately, many if not most of America’s dogs are overwhelmed with the ongoing burden of detoxification.

During the first stage of detoxification, the body identifies and separates waste products and toxins from the blood and lymph. Water-soluble material that can be excreted goes to the kidneys. Dehydration complicates the detoxification process, which is why access to clean drinking water is so important for dogs.

In Phase I of detoxification, during which waste products are made water-soluble and sent to the kidneys, the liver uses antioxidants and key minerals such as vitamins A, C, and E, bioflavonoids, selenium, copper, superoxide dismutase (SOD), zinc, and manganese. In phase II, the liver needs glucuronic acid, sulfates from glutathione, acetyl-cysteine, and the amino acids taurine, arginine, ornithine, glutamine, glycine, and cysteine.

When a dog is deficient in either Phase I or Phase II nutrients, backups and spillovers occur. Partially processed toxins traveling through the bloodstream may find a home in fatty tissue, or they may stay in the blood, infect healthy tissue, and cause new illnesses.

Many herbs and supplements are recommended for canine detoxification support, but few address the body’s need for amino acids. Seacure not only fills that gap and reduces the symptoms of detoxification, but also literally heals damaged organs and improves the dog’s digestion. Like people, dogs can suffer from leaky gut syndrome. Tiny injuries to the intestinal wall cause it to become too porous, allowing large molecules of undigested protein, bacteria, and microorganisms to migrate from the digestive tract to the rest of the body, which stresses and impairs the liver, pancreas, and immune system. Leaky gut syndrome is associated with food sensitivities, allergies, hyperactivity, and autoimmune disorders.

Giving meat and other high-protein foods to dogs with leaky gut syndrome or other digestive disorders doesn’t help because the damage prevents the food from being completely digested and assimilated. Seacure doesn’t require digestion, so it allows digestive organs to rest while supplying the amino acids and peptides needed for tissue repair and recovery.

Even dogs who suffer from vomiting, chronic diarrhea, and wasting diseases can usually accept Seacure, which can be mixed with water and administered with a dropper or feeding syringe. Seacure is not yet available as a powder for the convenience of feeding dogs and cats, but most dogs are happy to swallow the capsules whole. Or, the capsules can be opened and the powder sprinkled over food or mixed with water.

Whether you make Seacure part of your dog’s everyday diet or use it for a short time to speed recovery from an illness or accident, Uruguay’s solution to Third World famine problems can help your dog lead a longer, healthier life.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Favorite Remedies Revisited”
Click here to view “Supplements and NSAIDs for Dogs”

A regular contributor to WDJ, CJ Puotinen is also the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats, and several books about human health, including Natural Relief From Aches and Pains.

So Much to Talk About

1

Months have passed since we’ve run any letters from our readers; our last installment of reader responses was in our October 2002 issue. We really didn’t mean to let it go so long, especially since we’ve received so many informative and thought-provoking letters.

We’ll catch up here, with a longer-than-usual batch of letters that we think you will find most interesting. The letters include responses from several pet food makers on the topic of “secret” manufacturing facilities; additional practical tips on finding good grinders from people who make food for their dogs; and predictably strong opinions (pro and con) from readers and manufacturers about our article about electronic containment systems.

Thanks for all your input. We learned a long time ago that WDJ counts some of the most knowledgeable and passionate canine enthusiasts in its readership, and we appreciate your contributions. Next month, we’ll run letters from some of our frequent flyer readers, who have contributed even more helpful information about air travel with dogs.

———-

As discussed in “Made in a Secret Location” (WDJ January 2003), many pet food companies do not disclose the locations of their manufacturing plants. We discussed (and rebutted) the various reasons that company representatives have offered as justification for this. The most common explanation concerns fears that consumers will shun products that are made by independent, third-party manufacturers.

In our opinion, consumers are best served when they have as much information about a product as possible. At least a few pet food makers agreed with us, and felt compelled to share information about their operations with our readers.


DOG FOOD MAKERS RESPOND
Recently, WDJ published an article that questioned the motives and ethics of all pet food companies that do not readily disclose their outside manufacturing partners. As industry people know, even the largest companies with huge brand names use contract manufacturers for certain products.

What was especially disturbing about the article was that it implied that some pet food manufacturers who use contract producers are not making the foods that they claim to be making, whether due to inadequate equipment or insufficient oversight. The article states that these vague claims are made on the basis of “rumors” from “sources that [the editors] . . . really trust.”

The purpose of this letter is to make it absolutely clear, without doubt or question, that the claims in the article do not and could not apply to Natura Pet Products or any of our outstanding pet foods. Everything that we make is exactly as specified, and our stringent quality management program extends both to wholly Natura-owned manufacturing facilities and contract manufacturers.

Following are descriptions of our current and new dry food and treat manufacturing facilities, including our own organic certified bakery in San Leandro, California, where all of our Innova HealthBar, California Natural HealthBar, and Everyone’s Best Friend treat products are made; our manufacturing partner of nine years in New York, Chenango Valley Pet Foods, where our dry foods are currently made; and our own extrusion plant, currently under construction in Fremont, Nebraska. In the summer of 2003 we will commission this new state-of-the-art manufacturing plant, which we feel will establish Natura Pet Products as the premier manufacturer of healthful dog and cat foods.

Natura is moving aggressively forward to support and serve our valued distributors, retailers, consumers, and, most importantly, the dogs and cats that we care for and love.

-Peter Atkins, Vice President
Natura Pet Products
San Jose, CA


We’ve had several inquiries from WDJ readers regarding where our foods are manufactured. Natural Balance Dry Dog Foods are made at Diamond Pet Foods in Lathrop, California, a state-of-the-art, $30 million manufacturing facility that has the capability to include fresh meats.

Our duck and chicken meat is processed locally, and sent to the plant in refrigerated trucks at a temperature of below 38°F. Upon arrival at the plant, the temperature is checked to make sure that it is below 38°F. If it is, it is then taken off the truck and put into a 38°F refrigerated meat inclusion room while it is mixed into dog food, which is within approximately four hours of arrival at the plant.

The plant is completely computerized and has excellent quality control in place. Control samples for protein, fat, fiber, and moisture are taken every 30 minutes.

-Frank L. Cook, Executive V.P. of Sales/Marketing,
Natural Balance Pet Foods, Inc.
Pacoima, CA


You did a wonderful job with the article on manufacturing facilities. You made many excellent points and, based on your article, we have adopted the policy of full disclosure.

For some time, we had been a little uneasy about disclosing our manufacturer and, as a result, opted not to tell our customers (even when asked). Our main concern in the past was product differentiation between Back to Basics and Eagle Pet Products (our manufacturer).

However, after a long meeting, we decided that the points you made were too sensible to discount. We are proud of our manufacturer and always have been. Thank you very much for making a difficult decision a little easier.

-Nicholas Everett, Director of Sales
Beowulf Natural Feeds, Inc.
Syracuse, NY

———-

We quizzed experienced “raw feeders” about their selection and use of meat grinding machines for the home manufacture of dog food (“Good Grinders,” January 2002). They offered tips on machine purchasing and maintenance, and described what sorts of foods they processed. Below, the retailer of the machines that were most frequently recommended by our reader/experts suggests its tools are being used beyond their capability, and more significantly, beyond the scope of their warranty.


SUCH A GRIND
Please be advised that the meat grinders from Northern Tool & Equipment should NOT be used to grind chicken backs, as stated in one of your recent issues. We have confirmed with the manufacturer that the grinder blade cannot handle this type of application.

-David Chen
Customer Services Manager
Northern Tool & Equipment
Burnsville, MN


I was surprised that the grinder I have was not mentioned in your article. It’s the American Eagle, also from Pierce Equipment (pierceequipment.com or 877-354-1265). I’m so glad I went with it instead of a cheaper one. It has performed very well and two of my friends have bought one for themselves.

-Ellen Pauly
via e-mail


Months ago, I purchased an electric meat grinder from Harbor Freight Tools (harborfreight.com or 800-423-2567) for $20 on sale. It has been an excellent investment, and would be even at the regular price of $40. It’s a 300-watt machine and comes with a sausage maker and two grinding plates as well as a tray and plunger.

While I don’t grind bones (my German Shepherds get their chicken backs and other bones intact) and would be leery of doing so in any machine such as this one that is primarily PVC, it has done a great job with all kinds of meat, garlic, pills, etc. The only problem occurs after cleaning; if you put the cutting blade in backward (easy to do and not obvious), it doesn’t work well.

-Rolf U. Engelfried
Wilton Manors, FL


You guys are mind readers! Often, I think about something and then it shows up in the next issue. I decided to start making my dog’s food – and there was an article on grinders!

Thanks for a great newsletter. I tell people about it all the time. I received a blind advertisement for it and liked it so much that I have subscribed for a couple of years.

-Sandy Berry
via e-mail

———-

The use of electronic collars for training and/or containment continues to be a hot-button issue for WDJ readers. We received an approximately equal number of letters expressing strong support for and strong condemnation of our view that the risks of using electronic containment systems outweigh the potential benefits (“Simply Shocking,” February 2003). No other topic spurs as many reader letters, pro and con, as this one.


SHOCKED!
Your article was not about the use, but only about the misuse of electronic containment products. The Instant Fence has been a blessing to me and my dogs. I own a Siberian Husky. Dogs of this breed are extremely difficult to keep in a yard; they are expert escape artists. Now that we have the Instant Fence, my Siberian can go out by himself instead of being on a leash all the time.

With proper precautions and training, this type of fence can be safe. It’s unfortunate that articles like yours and the lack of proper instructions and warnings from the fence company will probably prevent owners who could safely use this product from being able to view it as an option.

However, these fences are not good for every owner. I would have to agree that the fence companies are not very forthcoming about the realistic use of the products nor do they have very good instructions. Also, this type of fence should never be used when you are not at home. Like any electronic devices they could malfunction.

-Brenda, Atlanta, GA
via e-mail


It might have been more helpful to your readers to have a more balanced article (about electronic containment systems) rather than a string of horror stories about dogs who didn’t respond well or weren’t trained properly to the fence.

My experience with an electronic containment system has been nothing but positive. Our Boxer is less aggressive and rarely barks at passers-by with this fence compared to the traditional physical fence in which he spent his first seven years. It’s not for every dog or family. However, it is a great option for some families, a fact that your article fails to address.

-Angel Vannoy
via e-mail


I can understand why, based on author Pat Miller’s experiences with electronic containment systems, she is biased against using shock collars. She made some cogent arguments that prospective fence buyers need to either counter or deal with. But our experience with the Invisible Fence brand fence is far different from what Miller describes. Our German Shorthaired Pointer learned the system with little difficulty. The product contains her beautifully and she remains the same friendly, gentle, happy dog who now has the run of our suburban yard.

However, we feel that all dogs should have a watchful owner’s eye on them when they are outside, no matter what style of fencing contains the dog.

-Mary Kay Dessaffy and Dan Anthony
Middleburg, OH


I was very pleased to read “Simply Shocking.” I run a Wheaten Terrier rescue and have taken many Wheatens into rescue whose owners said they were aggressive or biting. My first question always is, “Do you have an electric fence?” Without fail, every single dog has stopped the behavior after being removed from the electric fencing. Our rescue now has a “no electric fencing” policy and it is now in our adoption contract that the rescue dogs can never be kept in such an enclosure.

-Wendy Wheaton, Director
S’Wheat Rescues, Inc., Kansas City, MO
wheatenterrierrescue.org


On the surface, electronic containment systems appear to be the homeowner’s answer to containing the dog, a beautiful landscape, and deed restriction compliance. An in-depth evaluation of these devices show them to be far less effective than claimed.

While there are some notable differences in function and hardware, all electronic pet containment systems are based on punishment training – that is, the use of an aversive stimulus to decrease the probability of a behavior. In simpler terms, “punishment” is used to create fear in order to prevent a behavior from recurring.

While this approach can possibly be justified in certain applications, its effectiveness is severely limited by its specificity and list of potential problems. Many dogs will learn to run through or otherwise negate the systems. My years in a behavior consultation practice has shown a much more serious issue to exist with a large number of dogs who exhibit both short- and long- term behavior prob-lems, either caused or exacerbated by the intim-idation and strong shock produced by these systems.

Some of these changes are subtle, involving avoidance behavior, fear, and anxiety, while others involve potentially dangerous aggressive behaviors. The most serious of these problems involves a greatly magnified increase in territorial aggression. Some dogs may be temperamentally suited to handle the punishment training, but many are not.

Electronic containment systems are big business. However, I have yet to see one sentence written in their product literature that addresses the unsuitability of these systems for many dogs. I believe it is the responsibility of the marketers of these systems to be more communicative about the products’ potential problems and limitations. A means to evaluate each dog’s suitability – while not an easy task – should also be provided to each owner.

I distribute a handout to my clients that outlines potential problems associated with electronic containment systems, including:

1) They may not work as promised. Equipment failure or improper use (e.g., collar too loose) can render them ineffective. The dog may burst through the barrier in pursuit of something without any forethought, or the dog may simply learn to tolerate the shock and run through the barrier. One mistake could be disastrous.

2) Most of the systems correct the dog for coming back through if he gets out. The result is a dog who doesn’t come back.

3) The systems don’t keep anything out. Dogs should be supervised by an adult whenever outside in an unfenced area.

4) They frighten some dogs to the degree that it affects their overall demeanor. Some dogs will even refuse to go out in the yard or will change their elimination habits.

5) They may create a generalized fear of anything that looks like a training flag.

6) They may create a generalized fear of any new place or location that reminds them of their yard, resulting in a reluctance to “move,” i.e., crossing the electronic barrier.

7) They make some dogs extremely aggressive at the territorial boundary. The dog can’t “get out” but feels vulnerable to a person or animal that can “get in.” Dogs who are already territorial may exhibit an exaggerated response. This aggressiveness can generalize to other situations.

8) The dog may perceive a person or animal on the other side of the barrier as the source of his discomfort, and direct aggression toward this individual if access becomes available.

9) Because aggressive territoriality is generally self-rewarding, the dog may learn to use an aggressive response to other stressful stimuli.

10) The collar can be activated by other equipment on the same frequency, shocking the dog without warning or reason.

11) The collar probes can cause physical injury to the dog’s neck if the collar is left on for long periods of time.

12) The dog may start exhibiting compulsive displacement behaviors such as rubbing its face on the ground.

13) Those who use remote trainers may find that an electronic fence may negate their effectiveness by creating a negative “place” response.

There are always alternatives for those who choose to reject an electronic barrier. I strongly suggest that each owner objectively evaluate the facts, their dog, and their specific situation before making a decision.

-Steve Robinson, owner
Common Scents Canine Center
Ortonville, MI

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Symptoms That Your Dog May Be Injured

1

Handlers give commands, and dogs carry them out. That’s the ideal, anyway, and the benefits range from good behavior to ribbons and trophies. With well-timed rewards, praise, and practice, any dog can learn just about anything. But what happens when a dog refuses a command? Traditional trainers say a good handler prevents future problems by enforcing every instruction. But what if the dog has a very good reason to refuse? And how can you tell?

Acute or chronic health problems – from spinal misalignments or torn muscles to the development of disease – are commonly to blame for the onset of performance failures in well-trained and well-conditioned dogs. Handlers must be aware of this possibility and sensitive to their dogs’ subtle body language and behavior in order to spare the dogs from needless pain and anxiety. “Not herself” The most challenging exercise of their Courier level training requires Portuguese Water Dogs to jump off a rowboat platform, pick up a buoy ball with line attached, swim toward a marker 50 feet away, continue past the marker for another 10 to 15 feet, drop the ball at a signal from the handler, and return without the ball. “This is very difficult,” says Marsha Dominguez of River Edge, New Jersey, “because these dogs have been trained since day one to bring things back, and it makes no sense to them to take something away and leave it. And they can’t always see the marker; they just have to go in a straight line toward nothing and wait for the handler’s command.” Dominguez spent last summer working on this exercise with Jasmine, her nine-year-old Portuguese Water Dog, on land and in the water. Jasmine had already earned her Junior, Apprentice, and Working Water Dog titles. By August, when the Nutmeg Portuguese Water Dog Club in Connecticut held its annual water trial, they were ready. In fact, they practiced so much the week before the event that Jasmine seemed overtired. Dominguez pulled her from the first day of competition and let her rest. The next day, they entered the Courier trial. “Even after a day off, Jazz just wasn’t herself,” says Dominguez. “She didn’t want to retrieve the dummy in our warmup exercises. She went into the water, but away from me, then ran onto the beach to inspect a potato chip bag. I called her back and told her to ‘go boat.’ She got back on the boat but went off the platform, directly into the well of the boat, an immediate NQ (disqualification). When the steward rowed out to the marker to begin our test, Jasmine let me know she was not going to jump.” Dominguez asked the judge to excuse them. When they got back to shore, the judge chided her for spoiling her dog. He said that dogs need to learn that they don’t have a choice about doing the exercises. “I didn’t say anything,” says Dominguez. “Part of me felt embarrassed by this ‘failure to perform.’ After all, I am the Water Trial Chairperson, and Jasmine didn’t usually act like this. But if she didn’t want to perform, that was that.” Two months later, on October 18, Jasmine visited the psychiatric unit of a general hospital as part of her work as a therapy dog. She rolled over, kissed everyone, gave high-fives, responded to all of the commands the patients gave her, and wagged her tail throughout. But that evening, she vomited and her temperature rose to 106 degrees F. Dominguez rushed her to the animal hospital, where emergency surgery revealed numerous tumors. Her spleen and part of her liver were removed. Jasmine died five weeks later, on November 22. “At the August water trial, she might have had the first debilitating symptoms of a terrible disease,” says Dominguez. “She felt well enough for normal activities, but doing all that work in the water was too much for her. I listened to my dog and respected her. Even if she hadn’t been sick, what right do I have to make her do things she isn’t comfortable doing? When our dogs refuse to do something they normally enjoy, they might be trying to tell us something important.” A valuable lesson Deborah Lee Miller-Riley had a similar experience with her own Portuguese Water Dog, Kohl. At an out-of-state water trial eight years ago, Miller-Riley begged Kohl to compete on a day when the dog seemed moody and uninterested. “I felt frustrated,” admits Miller-Riley. “This water trial meant getting her advanced title, and water dogs don’t have many opportunities to take the test. When our turn came, Kohl seemed excited about going into the water. But on her third task, she refused to leave the boat. She turned away and stared at the bow. I pressured her to behave and told her to jump. She gave my face a good wash with her tongue. I told her to cut it out and jump. She jumped.” Kohl’s performance troubles were not over. On the last task, the dog turned away again. “I begged her to try for me,” Miller-Riley says. “The look in Kohl’s eyes clearly said, ‘Okay, I’ll do this for you,’ and she did. Though she earned her title that day and I could find nothing physically wrong, her entire attitude toward her favorite activity had changed, and I wanted to know why.” Consultations with three veterinarians followed, and by their visit to the third, Kohl had begun to show physical symptoms. “She had a crab-like movement when she ran toward me,” says Miller-Riley. “Her tail swung to one side, she would trip walking up a step, and she protected her right rear leg when she jumped into the car. She still ran with exuberance at home or at the park, but she had trouble keeping up with the pack. She chose not to chase the ball when we played group fetch and instead wandered off on a scent trail by herself.” Kohl had suffered a spinal injury and had lumbar-sacral disease. “The last thing she should have been doing was jumping off boats,” says Miller-Riley ruefully. “She had tried to tell me it was causing her pain, and I failed her. I didn’t listen. I lived with that guilt for years until one day I noticed her daughter, Nikki, avoiding certain movements in our water work training. I immediately stopped and sought help. Unlike her mother, Nikki recovered. I realized that Kohl had taught me a valuable lesson.” Equal protection Listening to our dogs as though they are equal partners is a novel concept for most, but its rewards include improved canine health, reduced injuries, better behavior, and a deeper emotional bond. Connecticut resident Mary Minard believes her first obligation to her dogs is to be both their guardian and advocate. “For example,” she explains, “it’s our job to protect them from trainers who use techniques that are too harsh. If a dog refuses a command, it’s our job to figure out why. Is he confused, frightened, or physically not up to the job? Sometimes we have to protect our dogs from themselves. Ella, my high-drive Golden Retriever, would retrieve until she dropped.” After she recovered from a slight shoulder injury, Ella earned her AX (Agility Excellent) and AXJ (Agility Excellent Jumpers) titles. She started to accumulate MX (Masters Agility Excellent) and MXJ (Masters Agility Excellent Jumpers) legs but was often too slow by one to three seconds on clean runs. “Something just didn’t feel right,” says Minard. “Nothing showed up on the videotapes – there wasn’t a head bob, she didn’t favor a leg, she didn’t take bars down, and she was well-conditioned and properly warmed up. Our veterinarian couldn’t pinpoint anything. But her weave poles were slower than normal, and on one run she slowed to a trot going into a tunnel. Her style looked different to me, more down in the front. I would pull her for the day anytime she didn’t look right, and I watched her so carefully while running the course that I ran into a few obstacles myself!” Minard took Ella back to several experts, none of whom found anything definitive. One thought there was a problem with Ella’s C5 nerve (the nerve at her fifth cervical vertebra), another thought she might have arthritis in her thoracic spine, and she was tested and treated for Lyme’s disease. Minard’s friend, animal bodywork therapist, Lynn Vaughan, was able to find the ‘ouchy’ points better than anyone, and found that massage and acupuncture improved the way Ella carries herself. But because Ella has not completely recovered, Minard retired her. “As much as it hurts to lose my agility competition partner,” says Minard, “I can’t ask her to keep flying over those jumps. Because she would.” Tune in Cynthia Fox, Ph.D., a pet industry retail consultant, knows how important it is to notice behavior changes. She lives with Afghan Hounds, whose high center of gravity, growth spurts, and unique anatomy often produce orthopedic problems during development. Victor, Fox’s Afghan puppy, loved to charge into the van, but one day when he was four months old, he stopped and simply looked instead of jumping. “Two vertebrae were out of alignment,” she says. “If that hadn’t been corrected, he would have compensated for it in ways that could have led to other joints being compromised.” By noticing small changes, like a dog taking longer than normal to lie down or get up, stopping a familiar behavior, or starting a new one, Fox has identified Lyme disease, a bad hip, and other problems in early stages. In California, professional triathlete Eric Harr trains with an ideal jogging partner, his Labrador-Greyhound, Owen. “Dogs are fantastic motivators,” he says. “With Owen, my workouts take on a new level of excitement.” Harr isn’t alone. “All kinds of people run with their dogs,” he observes, “but they seldom notice that the dog might be limping or exhausted. The worst are people on bicycles who pull their dogs along. It’s essential to our long-term health to tune into our bodies’ subtle cues, and stop if we’re exhausted or if we feel an injury coming on during exercise. We must learn to tune into our canine counterparts’ subtle cues and respect those messages, because if the symptoms are obvious enough to notice, they’re serious.” Harr takes his dog’s condition as seriously as he takes his own. “I’ve grown so attuned to Owen,” he says, “that when his tail falls to a certain point, I know he’s getting tired. When he slows down, I know he’s dog-tired. At that point, I’ll walk all the way home, with stops for rest, even if my workout is far from over, because his health and happiness are more important than any contest or Olympic medal I could win. That stuff is important, but compared to a lifetime of love from the perfect dog, it’s fleeting.” Pain and stress signals “Happy, willing dogs who suddenly stop working aren’t being stubborn or disobedient,” says Deborah Lee Miller-Riley, who has trained water sport teams for 10 years. “Dogs who quit on you have a reason, and sometimes it is because they are in pain or are trying to avoid pain.” Any of the following, says Miller-Riley, may be pain signals. Behavioral changes: The dog . . . • Avoids contact with other dogs (play can cause pain) • Spends less or more time than usual with the family or sleeping • Growls or snaps for no apparent reason • Avoids routine activities like getting into the car or climbing stairs • Suddenly becomes hyperactive, is unable to rest quietly, pants heavily, paces, or looks at or chews a body part • During grooming, the dog pulls away or avoids being touched • In training, the dog ignores the trainer, attempts to leave, distracts herself with the environment (sniffing, approaching others), simply shuts down and doesn’t move, offers a behavior other than the one requested, or offers appeasement gestures (multiple ‘calming signals’ such as licking, crouching, pawing, rolling over, yawning, or looking away) Physical symptoms: The dog . . . • Refuses meals or treats • Vomits or eliminates more frequently • No longer sits straight • Develops hot spots or other skin/coat changes • Limps, moves differently, favors one leg or one side of the body, seems stiff and sore, or displays any other change in gait or posture “Vet checks are important,” Miller-Riley explains, “because the problem can be as simple as a cut paw pad, anal sac infection, tick-borne disease, ear infection, worms, or a minor sprain. Sometimes the vet can find the early onset of a disease or serious injury.” And sometimes the dog is simply stressed. “Dogs need down time,” says behavioral trainer Elizabeth Teal of New York City. “This is obviously true for dogs that compete, but it’s also true for family pets. Stress can make animals as well as people either sick or aggressive, but it’s a factor that’s usually overlooked.” Extra vigilance for these dogs Teal is one of the world’s leading experts on therapy dogs, whose stress signals (such as yawning, turning away from people, panting, shedding, or refusing to enter a room) are often ignored or misunderstood. “Most of us work our dogs past their point of joy and thus burn them out early,” she says. “It’s so important to understand our dogs’ body language. Dogs constantly tell us how they feel, and we pretty constantly ignore them.” In Teal’s experience, it’s unusual to find therapy dog handlers who pay adequate attention to their generous and friendly dogs. She describes these rare people as ‘brave,’ meaning the ones who interrupt nursing home visits to give their stressed dogs a break, or who put their dogs on a leave of absence before they’re exhausted and no longer enjoy being petted – even if TV cameras are coming, a party has been scheduled for the dog, or a facility has requested a special visit. “I’m convinced that the therapeutic value of a pet visit is diminished if the animal isn’t having a good time,” Teal says. “The engagement of a joyous spirit is entirely different from the presence of an unhappy, disinterested warm body that tolerates being petted. What matters isn’t whether everyone gets to ‘pet a dog.’ What matters is the quality of the interactions.” Learning to watch “It’s one thing to decide you’re going to pay attention to your dog,” says Lynn Vaughan, “and another to understand what you see.” In seminars, consultations, and in her video (Bodywork for Dogs: Connecting Through Massage, Acupressure, and Intuitive TouchTM ) Vaughan trains people to be better observers. “Every dog has habitual ways of moving,” Vaughan says, “and if you take the time to watch, learn how to use touch, and connect with your dog on a daily basis, you’ll notice changes when they occur. Or there might be a change in the sounds a dog makes, or in the dog’s body odor. Some things may be so subtle that you can’t describe them, but those are just as important as obvious symptoms. “Observing is both an outward process of watching, analyzing, and studying, and an inward process of developing intuition and letting your mind be still to receive information,” Vaughan continues. “If you think something doesn’t seem right, check with a veterinarian, veterinary chiropractor, massage therapist, trainer, or other expert, and start watching videotapes, reading books, and doing research yourself.” Keep a record of your dog’s activities, behaviors, and symptoms in a journal, calendar, or file folder so that, when the need arises, you can report them accurately. Even seemingly inconsequential symptoms can be important. “It’s a challenge to go to the vet’s office with a list of subtle symptoms,” says Cynthia Fox. “The dog looks fine and acts fine, while you stand there describing things that most people wouldn’t even notice. But it’s important to trust your hunches.” Trust your hunches Fox did that when eight-year-old Willy Wonka, another of her Afghans, developed a rumbling stomach and occasional reflux, and started jumping on and off the bed in discomfort. “It happened only occasionally, but it was enough to set off alarm bells in my mind,” she says. At the Veterinary Emergency and Referral Center in Norwalk, Connecticut, Wonka had blood tests and endoscopy. Nothing was found, but when the symptoms recurred, he had almost-fatal pneumonia. Again, endoscopy found nothing significant, but the pneumonia returned, and no one could figure out why. “By this time,” says Fox, “I was so desperate and exhausted, I cried. I begged Dr. Berkwitt, our internist, to find the problem before it killed Wonka. His symptoms included only that occasionally rumbling tummy, the reflux, and his jumping on and off the bed, but I knew something was seriously wrong.” It was. Wonka had a hiatal hernia. “Part of his stomach protruded into the chest cavity,” she explains, “and that led to his bouts of indigestion and discomfort. Then he would vomit and aspirate small pieces of food, which caused infection in his lungs, producing pneumonia. He had so much lung disease and decay from the recurring pneumonia that it shortened his life.” But thanks to Fox’s perseverance, the cause was discovered and could be treated, giving Wonka a more comfortable final year. The rewards of slowing down It takes time to train ourselves to notice subtle changes in a dog’s physical condition and behavior, and in our fast-paced world, slowing down isn’t easy. “Paying attention can be exhausting,” says trainer and philosopher Suzanne Clothier, whose books and videos help the uninitiated understand canine anatomy, appreciate the dogs’ point of view, and work with dogs as equal partners. These things are important, she says, because they not only prevent injury and improve performance, but also help people see their dogs objectively and adjust their expectations to more accurately reflect both the abilities and limitations of their canine partners. According to Clothier, “The result can be as drastic as the immediate retirement of a dog (which has happened at my seminars), or it can be as mild as delaying a goal until you have resolved the dog’s limitations through exercise, veterinary chiropractic adjustments, or other therapies.” Clothier’s latest book, Bones Would Rain from the Sky: Deepening Our Relationships with Dogs, describes that relationship as a dance in which, at its best, each partner is fully aware of and sensitive to the other. “It requires being attentive every minute you are with your dog,” she explains, “gently and persistently shifting the balance toward one of mutual agreement and cooperation. It is the same as ‘the flow’ found in deeply creative moments, when your engagement is so complete that there is no sense of time or the outside world, and no fear, shame, or guilt to interfere with what you’re doing. When you are fully present in the moment, there is a sureness in all of your movements, thoughts, and responses to the other.” Clothier considers the act of intense observation to be a sacred act of love. “To really know other beings, to really love them, you must learn about them – and we do this by watching and listening with love, patience, curiosity, respect, and empathy. If you learn to notice and respect your dog’s most subtle cues, just as your dog already notices yours, the result will be an entirely new level of communication between you. And you will begin the dance.” A regular contributor to WDJ, CJ Puotinen is also the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats, and several books about human health including, Natural Relief from Aches and Pains, published last summer.

Choosing the Correct Sized Dog is Key

-By Pat Miller

There are two kinds of dog people in this world: small dog people, and dog people who haven’t yet met and fallen in love with the right small dog.

I used to be a big dog person. I once owned a St. Bernard, and dreamed of owning an Irish Wolfhound. “Give me a big dog, a thumpin’ dog,” I used to say, referring to a dog who could withstand heavy patting. All my life, I looked disdainfully down on yappy little foo-foo dogs and the wimpy people who owned them.

Then, 13 years ago, a 10-month-old Pomeranian was surrendered by his owners to the shelter where I worked. I fell in love with – and adopted – Dusty. My whole perspective on the dog world shifted, as did some of my long-held paradigms on dog behavior, training, and management.

No longer did I scoff at people who snatched their tiny toys off the floor at the approach of a bigger dog. At a whopping eight pounds, Dusty had reached his full adult size, and I was constantly worried that I would step on him and break him, or that one of our bigger dogs might play with him too roughly and crush him. Or worse – some unknown dog with mayhem in mind could kill him instantly with one grab-and-shake move. Besides, it was just as easy – if not easier – to pick him up and carry him, so why not? The concept of “arm-dog” began to make perfect sense to me.

Big advantages
Once you adopt a small dog you realize that, safety concerns aside, there are some huge advantages to sharing your life with a mini-canine.

For example, they don’t take up as much room as your large dog – you can have several in the same space as one Great Dane. They share your bed without hogging it. They sit on your lap and still leave room for the newspaper. They don’t eat as much, so they are less expensive to feed, even with the best foods available. You can get by with smaller yards, and often, lower fences. They require comparatively less grooming. Little dog poops are tiny and inoffensive, even in the house – you can pick up their mini-feces with a tissue and flush them down the toilet. As a corollary, the small dog is much more realistic to litter-box train than a Mastiff, if that suits your fancy (see “Fine for Littering,” WDJ, September 2002).

You are much less likely to have to worry about counter-surfing with a little dog, nor is she as likely to knock over your 93-year-old Great Aunt Helen when she comes to visit (although a little dog can run under her feet and trip her up). The small dog is far more portable – you can fit her under an airline seat, in your shopping cart, or in a doggie backpack. Finally, she is less intimidating to people who are fearful of dogs, and more acceptable to landlords, hotels, motels, and other public places.

Of course, there are some disadvantages as well. Little dogs do break more easily, especially those with very fine bones, such as Chihuahuas and Papillons. Because of their small size, they can be mistakenly perceived as good pets for children. Some of them can be, but they are not automatically; it depends on the dog, good socialization, and the child’s ability to respect the dog’s small size. Their reputation as yappy and snappy is not entirely undeserved; they can become defensively aggressive if they feel threatened, and it’s easy to feel threatened when you are surrounded by human giants who are anywhere from 10 to 60 times your size. And because the dogs are small, owners tend to be permissive and overprotective, overlooking and excusing behaviors that larger dogs could never get away with. Which brings us to the topics of training and behavior management.

Small dog house manners
For optimum quality of life and relationship, it is every bit as important for the small dog to be trained as the large one.

Let’s arbitrarily define the “small dog” as one who is 25 pounds or less. This encompasses a wide range of breeds, from the tiny three-pound Chihuahua to the short and sturdy Scottish Terrier. It includes dogs with such varied personalities as the independent Jack Russell Terrier, amiable Pug, aloof Basenji, work-oriented Welsh Corgi, and the relatively phlegmatic French Bulldog, to name just a few. That doesn’t even take into consideration the infinite permutations of small mixed-breed dogs.

So forget any stereotype you may be holding of the “small dog” personality. The training challenges that small dog trainers face mirror to a large degree those faced by big dog trainers, and the same positive training methods work just as well.

There are some differences, however. The conventional wisdom that small dogs can be harder to housetrain is often a reality. There are several reasons why they are more likely to soil in the house, although it is not because they don’t have the instinct to keep their dens clean; they most certainly do. If your little dog’s housetraining is giving you headaches, it may be because:

• Small dog signals are harder to see. If a Rottweiler sits and stares at your face while you are reading the paper, you probably notice. If a Pomeranian sits and stares at your ankle, it’s easy to miss.

• Big dog owners may be more motivated. A tiny Yorkshire Terrier puddle behind the guest bed may not be discovered for weeks or months (or maybe never). The Great Dane lake in the kitchen is impossible to miss. It’s a simple matter to pick up a teeny Terrier turd, toss it in the toilet and dismiss the mistake. A moist, massive Mastiff mound is an entirely different matter.

• Small dogs have smaller holding capacities. Although you would expect their organ capacity to be proportionate to their size and intake, the bottom line is they do seem to need to go out on a more frequent potty schedule.

• Small dog owners are more likely to supervise less, use crates that are too large (in which the toy puppy can poop and pee in one end and sleep and play happily in the other) or not crate at all. A little pup can’t possibly be as much trouble as a big one, can she? (wrong!), and besides, we want Midge to sleep with us!

• Small dog owners are more likely to paper-train and continue to rely on paper-training, sending a mixed message about inside elimination versus outside elimination.

• Small dogs are more likely to have had their den-soiling inhibitions damaged by over-crating and dirty puppy mill conditions. If a dog is required to live in her own excrement and urine, she comes to think that living in filth is normal, and she won’t make an effort to “hold it” until she has access to a more suitable environment. This makes housetraining very difficult. Small dogs, by virtue of their size, are more popular as pet store and puppy mill breeds – both environments where they are more likely to be over-crated.

The answer to housetraining the small dog is scrupulous management. Constant supervision, through the appropriate use of leashes, crates, tethers, direct supervision, and regular trips to the outdoor bathroom spot – every hour on the hour, at first, if necessary (see “Tethered to Success,” WDJ April 2001). Pay close attention so you don’t miss your dog’s signals. All of the other regular housetraining tips also apply, of course: Feed regular meals instead of free-choice feeding; pick up water before bedtime, change crate substrate if necessary, and clean soiled spots with enzyme-based animal product cleaners.

The small dog owner often overlooks other house manners as well. Jumping up is much easier to accept when the dog is 5 pounds than 50, so lots of small dog owners don’t bother to teach a polite greeting. Our four dogs range in size from 8 pounds to 80, and all of them know to greet people without jumping up. They also wait for permission before getting up on the sofa.

This can be accomplished with a small dog just as it is with a big dog, by preventing her from being rewarded by the behavior you don’t want, and consistently and generously rewarding the behavior you do want with treats, toys, or a nap on the sofa.

This means turning your back on the jumper and petting her (and/or giving a treat) when she sits. She will soon learn to sit to get your attention. Be sure you give it! It also means body-blocking your dog when you see the “sofa gleam” in her eye – by moving into the open sofa space and/or not making your lap available – until she sits, and then inviting her up (assuming she is allowed up). Be sure to notice when she sits, and invite her up when she does; as small as she is, she is easy to overlook when she is sitting politely. These two behaviors are actually much easier to accomplish with your small dog than a large one.

Your small dog also needs to be well socialized. Treat her like a dog! Lots of positive experiences from early puppyhood will help dispel the aggressive “arm-dog” image of the angry Pomeranian nestled in the ample and befurred bosom of the wealthy dowager. Your little dog needs to have her feet on the ground a good part of the time so she can learn to go up and down stairs, get into cars, and walk on grass, dirt, gravel, carpeting, wood and tile floors.

Take her hiking. (In his younger days, Dusty could easily hold his own on an all day wilderness hike with the rest of our pack.) Have her meet lots of friendly people – all ages, shapes, sizes and races – armed with lots of tasty treats in lots of controlled circumstances. A good rule of thumb for socialization is to expose your pup to at least 90 different settings and types of people before she is four months old.

Basic small dog training
It is true that there are lots of little dogs who strain on their leashes, don’t come when called, and who think “sit” is something their owners do so the human can bend over and pet the dog. Yet the small dog is every bit as capable of learning basic and advanced training behaviors as the big dog – and it is just as important for their long term well-being and safety.

If you doubt a little dog’s ability to learn, just watch any canine competition. You will be amazed by the number of diminutive canines who compete successfully in Obedience, Agility, Rally, Flyball, and more.

Positive training techniques are the same for all sized dogs – they all have canine brains that respond similarly to the four principles of operant conditioning. There are some considerations for small dog owners that can make the relationship-building/training process more successful. Whether your goal is a well-mannered house dog or competition titles, if you keep the following concepts and tips in mind you and your small dog can both have more fun playing the training game together.

1. You are very big.
Primate body language (direct approach, looming over, eye contact, assertive gestures and voice) is intimidating to any dog who has not learned to read and interpret “human.” In the dog world, these behaviors are considered rude and offensive. The smaller the dog, the more threatening our natural human body language can be. When you are training your small dog, at least at first until she learns to read and trust you, be very conscious of using soft eye contact, making your gestures and voice small and soft rather than large and effusive, turning slightly sideways to her, and squatting instead of looming over your dog to interact with her.

2. Your dog’s stomach is very small.
I already remind dog owners to use small pieces of food treats and perhaps cut back on the size of their dogs’ regular meals, to prevent filling up before training is over and to avoid unwanted weight gain. Small dog treats must be very tiny; you may even need to eliminate some of their meals.

3. Work on the floor.
If you always train your little dog when you are standing up, you are guaranteed to end up with a sore back. Exercises like “puppy pushups” and luring the down can be especially backbreaking from full height. In the beginning, especially when teaching stationary exercises, sitting on the floor with your dog will save your back, and at the same time make you less intimidating to her. You can also work with your small dog while you sit in a chair, or you can put her on a raised surface where she is comfortable, such as a table, sofa, or bed.

4. Stand up and use a target stick.
You also need to train your dog while you are standing up – at least some of the time. She should learn to walk politely with you; even a small dog can damage her throat if she constantly strains at the leash. The better her leash manners, the more fun it will be to take her places, and the less likely she will become an arm-dog. You can teach her to target and then use your target stick to help her learn to walk with you, without having to bend over. Simply put the target stick where you want her to be. (See “On Target,” WDJ March 2001.) You can also attach a soft treat to the stick for delivery to the little dog without having to bend over, or just drop treats on the floor.

5. Use appropriate-sized training tools.
Little dogs need lightweight collars and leashes. It’s easy to underestimate the impact of a standard-weight leather leash if it accidentally bumps into your dog’s face, or, worse, if you drop your end and it falls on her. Her training tools and toys should be scaled appropriately to her size – pet suppliers have gotten wonderfully creative with small dog products like toy-dog-sized tennis balls and narrow, lightweight nylon leashes. Flyball boxes even have a spot that can pop out a mini-tennis ball for toy-sized team members.

Play it safe and smart
One of the reasons little dogs sometimes get an attitude about big dogs is that owners tend to panic when they see a big dog approaching. The owner’s stress transmits to the small dog, who then becomes anxious herself. If you grab your dog every time another dog approaches, it will increase her stress and the potential for a confrontation.

Little dogs sometimes do get savaged by big dogs because their owners forget to think. “Be smart” means don’t take your little dog places that you know are frequented by large, uncontrolled dogs. Only use your local dog park if there is a separate fenced area for small dogs.

If you are walking your dog on the street and you see someone approaching with a large dog, take evasive action – calmly cross the street while you practice good heeling so you can pass at a safe distance. If you see a loose dog approaching, look for an escape route – a place of business or fenced yard you can step into for safety. Carry an aversive spray such as “Direct Stop” that can thwart a persistent canine visitor. (See “Break It Up,” WDJ December 2002.) Only as a last resort should you pick your dog up – doing so also puts you at risk for injury if the approaching dog is intent on attacking.

Not that the risk of injury would stop any of us “small dog people” from protecting our beloved little ones. Like any dog owner worth her salt, our own safety is the last thing we think about when our canine family members are threatened. Their diminutive size only heightens the protective instinct that would cause us to risk life and limb for them.

Go ahead, big dog people, scoff at us if you want. It’s only a matter of time before you meet the small dog who steals your heart.

Pat Miller, WDJ’s Training Editor, is also a freelance author and Certified Pet Dog Trainer in Chattanooga, Tennessee. She is the president of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, and published her first book, The Power of Positive Dog Training, in 2002.

Effective Healing Herbs for Dogs

[Updated March 29, 2018]

Unlike conventional drug therapies and surgical interventions, effective herb use does not focus on suppression or removal of disease symptoms. Instead, the herbalist begins his work from a more holistic perspective, one that starts with identification and correction of underlying issues and external influences that cause or contribute to illness.

To clarify this, let’s look at urinary stones and the methods by which they are treated.

herbal supplements for dogs

It is well known that many types of stones result from systemic imbalances between urine pH levels and excess minerals in the urinary tract. There are various types of stones; some occur in an acid pH environment while others occur in an alkaline pH environment. Virtually all cases of stones are strongly influenced by diet and the body’s inability to effectively eliminate waste.

Aside from surgery, conventional approaches include reduction of calcium, protein, or other elements from the diet that are thought to contribute to the stones. However, from a holistic perspective, this approach leaves a very important question unanswered: Why is the body unable to properly utilize food and eliminate waste?

From a holistic standpoint, it just doesn’t make sense to reduce calcium, protein, and other nutrients that are important to canine health – to do so may predispose the dog to malnutrition. Therefore, the holistic caregiver’s first course of action is not to cut out important nutrients from the dog’s diet, but to improve the quality and digestibility of the food the dog eats. Why? Because stones do not represent the totality of the problem; they only represent a symptom of an imbalance that stems from poor food metabolism.

So instead of focusing on the stones themselves, the holistic caregiver begins a regimen of higher quality meat, highly digestible calcium, and digestive enzymes and probiotic supplements (bifidus, acidophilus, etc.) that will help improve digestion and elimination.

Once nutritional measures are put into play, herbs can be useful at assisting the body in its efforts to expel the stones and reestablish healthy balances. For example, dandelion and yucca root may be used to aid the body in absorption of nutrients and the elimination of excess waste. Marshmallow root (Althea officinalis), a mucilage-rich herb that helps lubricate and protect mucous membranes in the urinary tract, may help ease the passage of crystals and small stones. Couchgrass (Elytrigia repens), cornsilk (Zea mays), and other types of astringent herbs might be added to the regimen to reduce inflammation and open up urinary passages. Echinacea might also be useful toward stimulating the immune system and helping to knock down bacterial infection.

However, it is very important to know that before any of these herbs can be used at an optimum level of efficacy, diet must be improved. This applies to the use of herbs against any type of imbalance, which leads us to the number one golden rule of effective herb use…

THE 5 RULES OF USING HERBAL REMEDIES ON DOGS

1. A good diet always comes first.

Your dog’s body requires good, fully digestible, nutritionally complete food in order to function as Nature designed it. When used at their greatest potential, herbs are used to call upon healing energies and resources that are already in place – meaning that if a dog is on a diet of bargain basement Brand X kibble, the herbs you feed have few tools to work from.

Simply put, herbs work in concert with the quality of food that goes into it. They cannot replace a good diet, nor can they supplement a poor one. Without quality nutrition, herbs are holistically useless in therapeutic applications; don’t waste your time and money on them if you pay $10 for a 40-pound bag of dog food.

2. Herbs generally do not serve well as direct replacements for conventional drugs.

Although herbs can sometimes be used as alternatives to conventional drugs, it is important to remember that their greatest potential rests within the holistic context by which they are applied. When herbs are used from the same allopathic perspective as one would use a drug, their greatest healing gifts are not employed.

For example, licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra, an herb I touted as a potential alternative to anti-inflammatory drugs in the December 2002 issue of WDJ) can sometimes be used as a somewhat weak replacement for corticosteroid drugs. However, using licorice in this capacity without first considering the actual causes of a dog’s ailments is really no different from using an over-the-counter anti-inflammatory drug.

If you wish to use herbs effectively, start with diet, not by focusing on suppression of symptoms.

3. More of an herbal medicine is not necessarily better.

Although herbs tend to be more forgiving than most drugs in terms of safety and potential side effects, this does not mean they can be used without care and common sense. Some herbs are very powerful medicines, and if misused can lead to serious health problems.

Read books, talk to experts, go to seminars and classes to learn about herbs. Find out where your comfort boundaries exist with their use before you use them. If you have any doubts about which herb to use, how much, and how long, consult a holistic veterinarian that is familiar with the use of herbs in your type of dog.

4. Until you are familiar with herbs and how to properly select, prepare, combine, and portion them for use in your companion, it is best to use reputable herbal products that are formulated specifically for dogs.

By doing this you not only will save time and money, but also will draw from years of experience and expertise. There are dozens of quality herb products in the marketplace that have been formulated by people who are experts in the use of herbs for animals. These products are not only formulated for optimum efficacy, but are fine-tuned to the nuances of the canine body. Use them.

5. If you wish to pursue an alternative solution for a serious health problem, don’t waste time trying to figure out a self-administered solution. Consult a holistic veterinarian immediately.

Many of the letters and calls I get are from pet owners who are either frustrated with conventional medicine or who think they cannot access or afford the advice of a holistic veterinarian. My advice to all of you is this: If you truly love your dogs as I do, and if you recognize the precious gifts of happiness and healing they bring to you everyday, you owe it to them to provide the food and holistic care they need.

On the surface, the expense of a holistic veterinarian and a natural diet may seem unreasonable. But really, providing your companion with quality nutrition and holistic care is not as expensive as you think – especially when you learn that much of what your dog needs may already be in your refrigerator and spice cabinet.

Hundreds of holistic veterinarians are in practice throughout North America and can be accessed through the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, which maintains a state-by-state database of all of its members. Many of these very special vets can help you get started on a path to canine wellness on the telephone, and when you factor in the money you will save by reducing veterinary costs, you will soon realize the value of health maintenance versus disease intervention.

Just remember: It all starts with how willing you are to look at the bigger picture of your dog’s health.

HERBAL REMEDIES FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Banish the concept of herbs as alternatives to drugs that simply suppress symptoms.

2. Before you feed herbs to your dog, improve his diet! Herbs can’t be effective if the dog is malnourished.

3. Enlist the help of a holistic veterinarian who has experience with herbs, or an herbalist who will work with your veterinarian.

Greg Tilford is a well-known veterinary herbalist, lecturer, and author. He serves as a consultant and formulator to hundreds of holistic veterinarians throughout the world, and is CEO of Animal’s Apawthecary, a company that develops herbal products specifically for use in animals. He is author of four books on herbs, including All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets (Bowtie, 1999), which he co-authored with his wife, Mary.

Shipping Your Dog Cargo While You Fly

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-By Pat Miller

A client called me recently, seeking my advice. She is moving across the country, and wanted my recommendation on which airline to use to fly her Lab mix.

“I can’t give you one,” I told her. “I simply would not ship a dog by air, so I haven’t made any effort to keep track of which one might be safest.”

She wasn’t happy with my response. “But I have no choice,” she said, “I have to ship him.”

I told her that for me, flying a dog cargo was not a viable option, and that if I were in her position I would simply, somehow, find another way. I’m sure she was nettled by what she thought was my inappropriately stubborn refusal to give her the information she wanted.

The fact is, the information is almost impossible to come by. Unbelievably, neither the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) nor the airline industry keeps records of the number or percentage of animals that are lost, injured, or killed during air cargo transport. Any figures that do get reported are regarded as suspect by one or another player in the industry.

For example, the American Humane Association estimates that of the approximately two million animals who travel by air each year, some 5,000 are lost, injured, or killed. The Air Transport Association contests that number, but can’t deny that animals are sometimes harmed during transport. Because there is currently no disclosure of such incidents required by law, however, no one knows the true number.

We pet owners tend to hear about only the sensational cases that make it into the newspapers, such as the five German Shepherds, trained for law enforcement work, who died traveling on a Delta Airlines flight from Georgia to Ohio in May 2002, or the cat who disappeared somewhere between Canada and San Francisco while being shipped on an Air Canada flight in August 2002 (the cat’s heavily damaged carrier arrived, however).

We don’t hear about the less dramatic (but hardly less damaging) cases. Our dogs can’t tell us about their exposure to the elements – excessively hot or freezing cold temperatures they may experience in the cargo hold and on the tarmac. We don’t hear about pet carriers falling off luggage conveyor belts or being tossed around by careless or hurried baggage handlers. Nor do we hear about animal carriers that, just like other luggage, get loaded on the wrong flight and end up far from their intended destinations, with no one available to comfort or allow the distressed animals to relieve their full bladders or bowels. And when a puppy is shipped to us from a distant breeder, we never know for sure if his fearful personality is genetic, or stems primarily from the trauma of travel, especially if he was shipped during one of the several “fear periods” that can occur during the first year of a puppy’s life.

The airline industry doesn’t help its public image when it resists legislation and regulations intended to improve animal safety during air travel. New rules, ordered by Congress and proposed by the FAA, are supposed to go into effect by the end of this year, but are being met with vociferous objection from at least Delta, Northwest Airlines, and the Air Transport Association. The rules would, among other things, require closer observation of animals in flight and reporting of information regarding any incidents where animals are hurt, lost, or killed, so that consumers (ostensibly) would be able to choose an airline with the best safety record. (For more about this legislation, see sidebar below.)

First things to know
Personally, even if I had reliable information about the airline’s safety record, I doubt I would risk flying my dogs – unless I can fly them in the cabin with me, as I did with my Pomeranian last September, to attend the Association of Pet Dog Trainers’ annual conference in Portland, Oregon. As I learned, there is a lot that a person should know before she carries a dog onto an airplane, too! Even though I anticipated many of Dusty’s training issues that the experience would test, and had spent a significant amount of time getting him used to staying in his new airline-approved, soft-sided carrying case, there were many other aspects of our journey that were, at least, an inconvenience and could have been a major problem for Dusty and me. The first thing I learned is that the airlines charge a fee – usually about $75, each way – for each carry-on pet. This, despite the fact that they will not be handling the dog’s carrier at all! (Imagine if you had to pay $75 for any other carry-on luggage!)

I also found out that all of the airlines have a limit on how many animals a single person can carry (usually, only one pet per person) and a limit on how many animals can be on each flight. Most airlines will accept no more than two or three pets on any given flight. If you are headed toward a large dog-related event, then, you need to make your dog’s reservations very early to ensure his place under your seat.

Next, I learned that I would need a certificate from a veterinarian, advising the airline that my dog was healthy and completely vaccinated. The airline I used required this certificate to be issued no more than 10 days before my trip. Because I was going to be away for a week and the 10-day rule applied to the trip home as well, I made the health exam appointment with my veterinarian for the day before I left home. Otherwise, I would have needed to find a veterinarian in Portland to examine Dusty and issue another certificate for the trip home. Most veterinarians charge between $25 and $50 for the health exam, and an extra $10 to $25 for the certificate.

Also, those dog owners who use a reduced vaccination protocol should discuss the vaccination-reporting portion of the health certificate with their holistic veterinarian long before they plan to bring their dog on a plane. The certificate is a legal document that requires the veterinarian to swear (with his or her medical license at stake) that the dog is fully and currently vaccinated. As we’ve discussed in numerous articles, many holistic veterinarians suggest a reduced vaccination schedule for most dogs, using vaccine antibody titer tests to confirm that the dogs possess adequate antibody levels to convey protection from disease (see “Take the Titer Test,” WDJ December 2002, and “Current Thoughts on Shots,” August and September 1999).

And, of course, vaccinating the dog right before a potentially stressful trip is ill-advised.

First things to practice
Weeks (if not months) before you head to the airport with your carry-on dog, you need to invest in an appropriate airline-approved carrier (we have a strong recommendation for one; see the sidebar below). Then, you need to spend lots of time having your dog practice getting in and out of it, and spending significant amounts of time in it. This is to ensure that she will be physically and emotionally comfortable in the carrier for extended periods of time.

Introduce your dog to the carrier slowly; don’t ever force him in and zip it up quickly, which would be enough to convince many dogs to dread the carrier forevermore. Leave the carrier open, with a few treats sprinkled inside it, in your living room for a day or two so he can approach and smell it all on his own. Then, while you are reading or watching television one evening, toss treats onto the floor near the carrier, and then inside it, so your dog has to enter it, at least partway, to get the treat.

You can speed this process along by using a reward marker (such as the Click! of a clicker or the word “Yes!”) every time your dog goes even a little way into the carrier, followed by a yummy treat. Reward him for going farther and farther inside, and for increasingly long visits to the carrier before you close him in – and make those first “captures” very brief.

When your dog is comfortable staying in the closed carrier for a minute or so, give him a Kong toy stuffed with delicious treats; you can freeze the food-filled Kong to make it last even longer.

Monitor your dog closely while he’s in the carrier so you can let him out before he starts whining or exhibiting any anxiety about being closed in. If you free him immediately after any sort of outburst, you may set yourself up for further displays of whining, barking, or scratching to get out.

When he’s comfortable spending significant periods in the carrier, practice carrying him in it. Even a brief practice session may influence your selection of other carry-on items; even little dogs get heavy!

Cabin fever
I felt well-prepared but nervous before my first flight with a dog. Dusty, in all his fluffy 8 pounds and 13 years, had never been on a plane. We had driven to the APDT conference in upstate New York the year before and earned two of the three Rally legs we needed to get his title. I really wanted us to get that last Rally leg while Dusty was still capable of doing it. Besides, I had enjoyed having dogs with me at the conference the previous year and was really looking forward to his company.

Two days before we were scheduled to leave, just to be sure, I decided to call the airline to check on Dusty’s reservations, which I had made weeks before. To my dismay, the airline reservations person told me they had no record of the reservations! Fortunately, there was still an opening on my flight, but it confirmed my opinion that “you can’t be too prepared.”

The morning of our departure finally arrived. I carefully packed Dusty’s health certificate, treats, and water for the trip, as well as a stuffed Kong with extra stuffing materials in case he decided to switch into “demand barker” mode. I loaded my luggage into the car, then Dusty’s carrier, and finally, Dusty. He would be in that carrier for several hours – I didn’t want to shut him in until the last possible moment.

I parked in long-term parking at the Chattanooga airport; fortunately, the airport in our town is small enough that even long-term parking is just a brief walk from the ticket counter. I checked one suitcase through, and then we were on our way, Dusty prancing happily by my side through the airport.

At the security check, Dusty had to go into his carrier. The security officer reminded me several times that “the dog” could not come out of his carrier past this point, until we reached our destination. Dusty’s ears flattened a little at my cue to “go to bed,” but he hopped in for a treat, and I zipped him up, leaving the nylon cover rolled up on one side so he could see out. Taking a deep breath, I hoisted his bag over my left shoulder, picked up my purse with my left hand, grabbed my laptop case with my right, and headed for the gate.

Dusty wasn’t very happy and I didn’t blame him. Although I had acclimated him to the carrier, I had neglected to practice carrying it with him inside. I wasn’t very happy either; I had not realized how heavy the darn thing was once it was packed with one small dog and his various accessories. The carrier bounced and shifted as I walked, and I could feel my little friend trembling in the carrier at the same time I felt the crate strap biting into my shoulder. Other travelers, not aware of my precious cargo, came precariously close to bumping into him, which stressed us both even more.

Since I had allowed myself lots of extra time, I was able to experiment with my bags until I found a more comfortable way to carry everything. Let this be a warning: Try out all equipment in full dress rehearsal prior to actually using it.

We made it onto the plane without any new stress, and his carrier fit (just barely!) snugly under the seat in front of me. I had carefully measured it ahead of time to be sure it met the airline size limit of 17 inches long, 16 inches wide, and 10.5 inches high.

Dusty rested quietly without a peep throughout the first leg of the trip. None of the engine noises or plane vibrations seemed to bother him a bit. Seems there are some advantages to being almost totally deaf!

When flying with a carry-on dog, it is best to get a direct flight if at all possible. Of course, one of the disadvantages of a small friendly airport like Chattanooga is that you can’t get most places from here. We changed planes in Cincinnati, and had a long hike from one gate to the other. My shoulder became more and more sore.

The remainder of the trip was quiet. As soon as we exited the Portland airport I rescued Dusty from his crate and he gratefully lifted his leg for several minutes on a bush.

Not over until it’s over
The conference was enjoyable for both of us. Dusty loved sitting on my lap through workshops, and enjoyed treats and pets from other conference-goers who had left their canine companions at home and needed a “dog-fix.” He even enjoyed his first-ever professional dog massage! Halfway through the conference his shoulder popped out of place and he was walking on three legs. His chances for earning that last Rally leg were fading, until a five-minute massage miraculously fixed the problem.

When the week was over, Dusty had indeed won his Rally title, as well as an award at one of the three trials for Highest Scoring Dog Adopted From a Shelter, and High Scoring Senior Dog. He was retiring from the Rally ring with honors, and I was looking forward to getting us both back home.

Seasoned travelers now, we had far fewer anxieties about the trip. We made it home almost hitch-free.

Knowing that Dusty would travel well, I packed only the bare necessities in his travel carrier, which lightened the load on my shoulder. I had perfected my technique for holding the carrier, which also reduced the wear and tear on both of us. The Portland to Cincinnati jaunt was trouble-free, and with one leg of the journey left to go, I confidently climbed onto the small plane that would bring us home, walked to my seat and set the carrier down to slide it into its space.

Uh-oh. It didn’t fit. I pushed on it, flattening it as much as I could without infringing on Dusty’s space. It wouldn’t go, and stuck out about six inches. The flight attendant came by doing her last minute check.

“It has to go all the way under the seat,” she said.

“It won’t fit,” said I.

“We have a closet up front I can put it in,” she said.

“Not unless I can fit in the closet with him,” I answered, calmly but firmly.

“Then he’ll have to go in cargo,” she said.

“Not unless I go in cargo with him,” I answered, calmly but firmly.

“I’ll have to go get someone else,” she said, looking distinctly worried.

She brought back a male flight attendant, who went through the same litany of options for where Dusty’s carrier could go if it couldn’t fit under the seat. I gave him the same calm, firm answers. I finally reached down and managed to smoosh the carrier under the seat another two inches so it was sticking out only four inches, and he agreed that Dusty could stay there. Good thing, because I wasn’t looking forward to spending the flight in the cargo hold or in a closet!

I have to admit, while it was nice having Dusty with me at the conference, I would think long and hard before flying again with him or another small dog. It was stressful on both of us – especially when I thought I might have to change planes to prevent the airline from whisking Dusty into the cargo hold because the carrier wouldn’t fit under my seat.

People who travel more frequently than I may be more relaxed about the entire ordeal. But that doesn’t mean they can be any less vigilant about protecting their dogs from unexpected developments en route.

Pat Miller, WDJ?s Training Editor, is also a freelance author and Certified Pet Dog Trainer in Chattanooga, Tennessee. She is the president of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, and published her first book, The Power of Positive Dog Training, in 2002.

Canine Glandular or Organ Therapy

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The premise seems simple – if your dog has liver problems, feed him liver. What if it’s a kidney, thyroid, or adrenal problem? Then feed kidney, thyroid, or adrenal tissue. This is, in its simplest form, glandular or organ therapy.

The process has become much more refined over the years. Now your dog can experience the benefits of glandular therapy even when you can’t find the raw glands or other organs to feed him. Now, glandulars (the common term for products containing animal cells even if they aren’t from glands) are available in tablet, capsule, and liquid form, depending on the manufacturer.

The use of tissue from one species to help rebuild damaged tissue in another species dates back thousands of years. The papyrus of Eber, the oldest known medical document from about 1600 BC, describes the injection into humans of preparations made from animal glands. In the Middle Ages, the physician Paraclesus wrote and practiced the maxim “heart heals the heart, lung heals lung, spleen heals spleen; like cures like.”

While these crude forms of glandular or cell therapy were used for hundreds if not thousands of years, the techniques weren’t significantly refined until the 19th and 20th centuries.

Hormonal influence
There are a number of theories about exactly how glandulars work. The earliest medical hypothesis was that the glandular preparations supplied the hormones that the patient’s damaged glands failed to produce themselves. This led to the isolation of those hormones and the manufacture of their synthetic equivalents, and was how the drugs hydrocortisone and prednisone were ultimately discovered.

Researchers found they could maintain the lives of adrenalectomized cats by giving the cats adrenal extracts. (In fact, the Pottenger cat study, which most raw feeders are familiar with, was originally designed to help Pottenger regulate the potency of an adrenal extract he was manufacturing. The nutrition study evolved out of his observations of the adrenalectomized research cats.)

After discovering that the extracts could keep the cats alive, the key hormone cortisol was isolated. From this discovery, scientists developed synthetic hydrocortisone and prednisone to mimic the activity of naturally occurring cortisol. However, patients who receive these very narrow-focus drugs (which lack all the other potential activity of the glandular tissue) often experience harmful long- and short-term side effects. Incorporating the whole tissue, or extracts of tissue, must therefore have additional value.

It turns out that Paraclesus’ thinking was right on target. It turns out that cells are attracted to and nourish “like” cells – even if they are from a different species. By tracing stained or radioactive cells, research has shown repeatedly that the injected cells accumulate in the like tissue of the recipient.

For example, one study conducted in 1979 by T. Starzyl, showed that when animals with chemically damaged thyroids were given thyroid cells, there was a marked regeneration of the damaged thyroids.

In 1931, Paul Niehans the modern discoverer of cell therapy (injection of tissue into a patient rather than oral ingestion) came upon the treatment quite by mistake. A colleague of his had accidentally removed the parathyroid glands from his patient. Dr. Niehans was called upon to transplant bovine parathyroid glands into the woman. Because the woman was convulsing so violently and concerned that she wouldn’t survive the transplant surgery, he quickly sliced up the glands into minute pieces and injected her with them. The woman not only recovered, but lived another 30 years.

“Tissue decoys”
Another interesting benefit of glandulars is their use as an apparent tissue decoy. In 1947, Royal Lee (founder of Standard Process, a well-respected supplement manufacturer) and William Hanson published a book, Protomorphology, Study of Cell Autoregulation, in which they presented their theory that when taken orally, protomorphogens (PMG) – portions of cellular chromosomes – speed the elimination of tissue antibodies. This concept is now referred to as oral tolerization and is being researched extensively in the treatment of the human autoimmune diseases including rheumatoid arthritis, type I diabetes, uveitis, and multiple sclerosis.

“When the body is attacking itself and you give a PMG decoy, the body will attack [the decoy] rather than the organ,” explains Arthur Young, DVM, CHO, a holistic veterinarian based in Stuart, Florida. By stopping the autoimmune attack on the body’s own organs, you give those tissues a chance to recover.

This is what contemporary researchers are finding with their experiments using glandulars to combat autoimmune diseases. In the research on MS, when bovine myelin is administered orally, the autoimmune process against the body?s myelin basic protein is suppressed.

Nutritional value, too
In addition, glandular supplements provide a wide variety of nutrients and enzymes. These amino acids, peptides, enzymes, and lipids may directly help with the functioning of the glands and organs. Besides that, they’re good nutrition.

“Glandulars are one of the primary modalities I work with,” says Gerald Buchoff, BVScAH, owner of Holistic Housecalls for Pets and vice president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association. “I find most pets have imbalances and I have three things I use to rebalance in my bag of tricks: chiropractic, acupuncture, and nutrition. Glandulars are a key part of nutrition.”

When to use glandulars
Many holistic vets use glandular supplements in combination with other modalities, such as homeopathy, traditional Chinese medicine (including Chinese herbs and acupuncture), flower essences, and chiropractic. Dr. Young feels that rather than competing with the energy medicine of homeopathy, glandulars work synergistically with the modality. He says, “Glandulars support the organ systems involved while homeopathy helps the body to heal itself.”

For instance, with a dog exhibiting signs of hypothyroidism, Dr. Young will use a product such as Standard Process’ “Thytrophin PMG®” to support the thyroid gland and act as a decoy to possible autoimmune activity that could be damaging the gland. Because thytrophin has been processed to remove the hormone thyroxine, it doesn’t impact the complex and sensitive pituitary-thyroid feedback system. In contrast, the medication Soloxine replaces endogenous thyroxine, thereby suppressing the thyroid’s ability to produce hormones itself.

In combination with the glandular supplementation, Dr. Young completes a thorough homeopathic workup and prescribes the appropriate homeopathic remedy. The remedy is chosen to help balance the body so that it can heal itself. Dr. Young has found that using this combination of glandulars and homeopathy benefits a wide variety of health issues, including inflammatory bowel disease, skin problems, liver disease, fertility issues, and even cancer.

In Dr. Buchoff’s experience, diseases of the kidney and liver respond the best to glandular therapy. Contrary to Dr. Young’s experience, Dr. Buchoff has found that dogs with hypothyroidism can benefit from glandulars, but usually need to continue taking conventional medications as well. “Hypothyroidism is frustrating that way,” he adds.

Spay incontinence is one of the common problems that Ihor Basko, DVM, of Kapaa, Hawaii, treats with glandulars. He’s seeing the problem more frequently as animals, particularly shelter animals, are spayed at younger and younger ages. He has had the most success with “Resources Incontinence Formula” made by Genesis Ltd. This product’s ingredients include bovine ovary and herbs such as licorice and wild yam, which contain phytoestrogens. In his opinion, this supplement is very effective and safer than the estrogen (usually DES) or PPA (phenylproanolamine) commonly used in conventional veterinary practices.

Dr. Basko has found that glandular supplements are also effective for treating geriatric dogs experiencing cognitive disorders, and he far prefers this approach to the conventional pharmaceutical drugs used for cognitive disorders in aged dogs. He recommends adrenal glandulars in particular for these dogs, finding that they can give older animals a boost.

In addition to addressing specific issues such as liver, kidney, or thyroid disease, Dr. Buchoff recommends using supplements with glandulars as a preventive to keep the endocrine system balanced. He recommends that all of his patients receive the gender-specific version of the Standard Process product, Symplex® (Standard Process makes a male and female version). This product is a combination of bovine ovary or orchic, adrenal, pituitary, and thyroid PMG extracts. He also recommends Catalyn® to patients not on a raw diet.

Other suggestions
Your veterinarian should conduct blood tests to establish pretreatment values for hormone levels and other indicators, reminds Dr. Basko. Be sure to follow up with additional testing to confirm whether or not the therapy helps. If you don’t notice results initially, the dose may need to be increased. Not enough has been done to determine optimal doses of these supplements, he adds.

Despite a possible need for more research on dosing for animals, glandular therapy is quite safe. “There are no contraindications, glandulars aren’t drugs or toxins, but naturally occurring nutrients,” explains Dr. Young. Do be sure to use fresh products from quality suppliers. And don’t over-supplement with glandulars; more isn’t always better.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Help for Dogs with Hypothyroidism”
Click here to view “Case of the Missing Hormones”
Click here to view “Symptoms of Addison’s Disease”

Shannon Wilkinson is a TTouch practitioner who lives with two dogs, two cats and a husband in Portland, Oregon.

Hydrotherapy and Aquatic Exercise for Canine

-By C.C. Holland

Hydrotherapy and aquatic exercise are the hottest new tools in canine physical rehabilitation. And that’s not just a jump in a lake. Today’s cutting-edge therapists work with veterinarians’ referrals and use sophisticated underwater treadmills and other specialized equipment to provide rehabilitation for a variety of medical conditions. And they are frequently able to achieve better results in less time than through the recovery regimens prescribed by more conventional veterinary practitioners.

We reported on the rising use of heated therapy pools for rehabilitation in the October 2000 issue of WDJ, and described how therapists partially support and guide canine clients through a series of gentle exercises in the warm, muscle-relaxing water. The latest therapy tool also uses a warm pool, but adds an underwater treadmill. The therapist can effectively reduce the amount of body weight the dog must carry as he walks on the treadmill simply by increasing the depth of the water. As the dog progresses, the water height can be reduced to create more load on his limbs.

For example, in an underwater treadmill apparatus with the water level at shoulder height, the dog’s rear paws support less than a third of his weight, compared to the usual two-thirds on land. As he gains strength, he’ll work in a shallower pool, against a current, or with the treadmill tilted at varying degrees of incline.

Everyone’s happy
One such leading-edge therapy center is SOL Companion, in Oakland, California. Sabina, a four-year-old Rottweiler, is one of the center’s clients. At a recent rehabilitation session she limped across the floor of one of the treatment rooms, declining to put weight on one of her hind legs.

“We think it’s something neurological,” commented Nina Patterson, the physical therapist working with Sabina. Whereas in most cases it’s difficult to rehabilitate a gimpy leg when your patient can’t or won’t use the limb, this is a case where the underwater treadmill excels.

Veterinary technician Amy Mayfield led Sabina into a large box enclosed with thick, clear plastic. A standard-looking treadmill sat on the bottom. Sabina stood on the treadmill, her weight on three paws, eyeing the liver treats that Mayfield held at the ready. Mayfield reached for the controls, and slowly, heated water began to seep into the treadmill chamber. Sabina waited patiently. When the water reached about chest height, the water flow ceased, and the treadmill began to move slowly.

Sabina moved along with it, her injured paw touching down tentatively at first, then more confidently as she strode along. When she exited the unit after a 15-minute session, her limp had diminished noticeably.

Sabina’s story helps explain why enthusiasm is growing about the underwater treadmill, which was first used on canines about four years ago. Julie Stuart, MS, PT, at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine, says her dream setup for rehab includes an underwater treadmill.

“It’s great for orthopedic dogs, dogs with arthritis or with hip dysplasia,” she says. “In water, they can exercise pain-free because it takes away the weight bearing. The buoyancy makes them bear less weight on their joints, yet it’s resistive.”

That combination of buoyancy and resistance makes using the underwater treadmill attractive in therapeutic work. John Sherman, DVM, an affiliate of North Carolina State College of Veterinary Medicine in private practice, has used a unit for nearly two years.

“It’s a powerful tool,” he says. “Let’s say a dog weighs 100 pounds on land. You could have him walk in water so he’d weigh only 40. You can get dogs with an injury or surgical repair walking and returning to function quicker.”

The water in these high-tech tools is heated for comfort – the temperature in the unit Sabina used is kept between 86 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit – and treated with a chemical such as chlorine or bromine to reduce bacteria levels.

Technicians can adjust the intensity of exercise by adjusting the treadmill’s speed and angle or by introducing a slow-flowing current for the dog to swim against. They harness dogs for safety and closely monitor them throughout the session. The pool has full filtration and the motor is safely enclosed away from water.

In addition to altering the weight he bears, the variable water level also changes the percentage of weight he carries on his front and rear limbs. When a dog walks on land, his forelegs bear 64 percent of his weight and his rear legs, 36 percent, says Patterson, the physical therapist at SOL Companion. In water at hip level, those percentages change dramatically.

“In the water, the rear legs almost float and bear only 28 percent of the dog’s weight, while the forelegs now take up 72 percent of the load,” Patterson explains.

Says Donna Chisholm, PT, who also works at SOL Companion, “You get all the benefits of buoyancy along with a reduction of compression forces. Using the underwater treadmill addresses all areas: balance, stability, conditioning, strength.”

Deep issues
If so many canine rehabilitation specialists are gung-ho about the units, why aren’t they everywhere? According to Allan Dahl, director of aquatic therapy for the manufacturer Ferno, only 53 of the company’s K9 Underwater Treadmill Systems have been sold since production began four years ago.

One factor may be price. Ferno’s underwater treadmills range from $14,500 to $50,000. At Tufts, Stuart cited cost as the reason she chose to purchase a swim spa/pool instead.

Dahl believes the bigger issue is simply the fact that canine rehabilitation itself is relatively new. Only an estimated 30 to 40 facilities in North America are devoted specifically to dogs. “Rehab is becoming an important tool in veterinary medicine,” he says. “But getting the vets to accept that therapy is important is taking some time.”

Dr. Sherman agrees. Rehabilitation is a very new science for his profession, he says. When he graduated from veterinary school in 1993, students learned to perform a surgery and then crate the dog for six weeks, with time outside only for elimination. The dog would then walk on leash for another six weeks.

“That was it,” he says. “That was rehab. Or you swam them, but really, swimming for a hind-limb injury is just not that effective a therapy.”

That mindset began to give way when human physical therapy became popular. Some veterinarians and physical therapists began considering translating human therapeutic modalities to the canine world. One was Laurie McCauley, DVM, an Illinois veterinarian in private practice. Four years ago she approached Ferno, which at the time was making underwater treadmills for human and equine use.

“They thought I was crazy, but they worked with me,” she says. “It’s such great exercise, safe for a 90-year-old lady with a hip replacement. So I thought it would be great for arthritic dogs.”

Dr. McCauley gave Dahl a wish list. In return, Ferno developed its first canine underwater treadmill, a unit that attached to her existing pool and used a Jet-Ski lift to vary the water height. Today, Dr. McCauley has two underwater treadmills at her TOPS Veterinary Rehabilitation center in Grays Lake, Illinois, and said about a dozen dogs a day benefit from them.

“I’ve had dogs with neurological injury that have used their legs a full two weeks in the water before they used them on land,” says Dr. McCauley. “A lot of the arthritic dogs do great with it. Their owners tell me they go home and are running up and down stairs, doing things they haven’t done for six months.”

Echoing Dr. McCauley’s enthusiasm is David Levine, a certified orthopedic physical therapist and adjunct associate professor at the University of Tennessee at Chattanooga’s College of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Levine is also an orthopedic certified specialist (OCS) and certified by the American Board of Physical Therapy Specialties. Levine was an early adopter of the underwater treadmill and worked with Ferno to design and modify the first units.

“I think early on, especially early post-operatively, it’s a really wonderful rehab tool to get (a dog) to start using a limb a lot easier than we normally could have outside, with just walking,” he says. “It’s enhanced our ability to rehabilitate post-op dogs more quickly and to a higher level.”

Of course, the people operating the treadmills need to be knowledgeable about their work. “The underwater treadmill, like anything, is just a tool to be used,” says Dr. Sherman. “If you just put a dog in there and expect him to get better, you can get into trouble. You have to give every patient a full physical exam, see where he is in the healing process and monitor his progress. In the wrong hands, if you just turned it on and didn’t know what you were doing, that would be a problem.”

Part of the plan
Every therapist we spoke with stressed that the underwater treadmill should be used as part of an overall treatment plan rather than its sole focus. For example, a typical surgical rehabilitation schedule at SOL Companion would begin one to two weeks post-operatively and include passive range-of-motion exercises to be performed by the owner three times a day, daily walking from 5 to 10 minutes at a time, and crating to limit movement. A month to six weeks later, the dog would begin two to three sessions a week at the clinic, where he’d undergo hands-on tissue work, hydrotherapy, and movement therapy, while continuing at-home work with the owner.

These rehabilitation centers are also a perfect location for complementary practitioners to offer adjunct services. At SOL Companion, a client can receive acupuncture from veterinarian and certified veterinary acupuncturist Kirsten Williams, or massage and myofascial release work from credentialed therapists. Patterson explains that using several therapeutic techniques usually results in a better outcome than using just one.

“We use a variety of soft-tissue techniques, which include myofascial release and active release technique, to free up any adhesions or tightness that may have occurred, either from the injury or from being immobilized,” she explains. “We may also do some joint mobilization and acupuncture; the latter is good for pain management and mobility. That’s all just to regain normal movement and normal joint movement.”

Those best qualified to work with dogs on the underwater treadmill include physical therapists who have expanded their practices to include dogs, and veterinarians or veterinary technicians who have formal training in animal rehabilitation.

Currently, there’s no such title as an “animal physical therapist,” although some specialized training programs exist. The term “physical therapist” (PT) is reserved for professionals who work with humans (see sidebar below).

While some dogs respond very well, hydrotherapy shouldn’t be viewed as the magic bullet, Patterson warns. As evidence, her center has only one underwater treadmill but is chock-full of other therapeutic equipment, including balance boards, oversized exercise balls, and even a mini-trampoline.

Still, the underwater treadmill work is a promising therapy that could become a new standard of care. And while results so far are strictly anecdotal – no rigorous studies of outcomes have been done – word of mouth has been encouraging. Dr. Sherman believes the treadmills will be available in every major metropolitan area someday. “This is an up-and-coming veterinary specialty,” he says.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “The Benefits of Hydrotherapy For Your Dog”
Click here to view “Happy Hydrotherapy”

C.C. Holland is a freelance writer from Oakland, CA, who enjoys applying what she learns about canine health and behavior to her own mixed-breed dog, Lucky. This is her first article for WDJ.

Acupressure Can Relieve Nausea

[Updated October 19, 2017]

Catherine took a sweeping, cloverleaf turn onto the interstate, and quickly became thankful that she had thought to bring a travel-crate for Hugo, her new nine-week-old Saint Bernard puppy. She was taking Hugo home for the first time, and Hugo’s tummy was not up to the ride – up came his little breakfast. Puppies commonly suffer from motion sickness, but older dogs can have their moments, too.

carsick dog

Those of us who have had the experience of a carsick dog might select a number of other words for the condition, but in Traditional Chinese Medicine regurgitation is considered “rebellious stomach chi.” Stomach chi is the life-force energy that supports the stomach’s ability to function properly. Stomach chi is supposed to flow downward, not upward. If the chi goes in the wrong direction, it is being “rebellious” and that’s not fun for dog or driver.

There are specific acupressure points that you can use before taking your dog in the car to help avoid having your dog experience rebellious stomach chi. By applying pressure to these particular points, you are effectively helping your dog balance the flow of energy throughout his body so that his stomach chi will flow in its natural direction – down.

Acupressure has been used for thousands of years for physical and emotional problems in both animals and humans. These simple techniques can resolve injuries more quickly; support the body before, during, and after surgeries; reduce swelling; minimize pain; help with calming; and improve immune system conditions.

Acupressure is always available and perfectly safe, so you can perform a treatment whenever you suspect that travels with your dog might be a bit bumpy, taxing his stomach chi. Give it a try. This will make for happier trips for both you and your best friend.

Acupressure Treatment for Nausea

We suggest you perform the following motion sickness/nausea treatment within an hour prior to getting into the car. Of course, this treatment can be used for other times when nausea or stomach upsets are causing your dog discomfort. An acupressure treatment is a comforting and healing experience for you and your animal. Start by finding a quiet, calm location, where your dog feels at ease. Breathe evenly and slowly while thinking about how you want your dog to feel. Once you have formulated your intention for the treatment, you are ready to begin.

Acupresure “Opening”

Gently place one hand on his shoulder; this hand serves as your “anchor” hand. Place the heel of your other hand at the top of his neck just to the side of his spine and stroke down his neck. Continue by smoothly stroking over his body down to his hindquarters, staying to the side his spine.

Continue to stroke down his leg following the bladder meridian (see diagram) to the outside digit. Do this same stroking with the heel of your hand three times on each side of your dog. The opening prepares your dog for intentional touch.

Point Work for Dogs’ Motion Sickness

For the point work phase of this treatment, follow the Motion Sickness/ Nausea Chart below. Start by resting one hand comfortably on your animal. Use your other hand to perform the actual point work. Hold a specific acupressure point for about 30 seconds up to one minute. Use one of the following point work techniques:

Direct Thumb Technique: Gently place the tip of your thumb directly on the acupressure point at a 90-degree angle adding a little pressure.

Two-Finger Technique: Put your middle finger on top of your index finger and then place your index finger at a 90-degree angle gently, but with intentional firmness, directly on the acupressure point.

Use whichever technique is most comfortable for you and your dog. The two-finger technique seems to be particularly good for smaller dogs and the thumb technique for larger dogs.

POINT TRADITIONAL NAME ACTION
Pe 6 Inner Gate “Master point” for chest and cranial abdomen. Powerful anxiety reducer, balances the internal organs. Relieves nausea.
Ki 21 Hidden Gate Relieves nausea and counterflow of chi. (Located a half-inch from the dog’s midline.)
Ki 27 Shu Mansion Harmonizes the stomach and lowers rebellious chi. (Located between the sternum and the first rib.)
St 36 Leg 3 Miles Harmonizes the stomach, supports the correct flow of chi, and calms the spirit.

Watch your dog’s reaction to the point work. Healthy energy releases include yawning, deep breathing, sighing, muscle twitches, and softening of the eyes. If your dog exhibits a pain reaction to a particular point, work the acupoint in front of the reactive point or behind it. Try that point again at a later session.

Acupressure “Closing”

To complete the acupressure session, repeat the stroking procedure described in the “Opening” phase of the treatment. With the heel of your hand, tracing the bladder meridian as shown above, stroke down your animal’s body, starting at the top of the neck, just off the midline.

Repeat the stroking three times on each side of his body just the way you did in the Opening. This procedure reconnects the flow of energy and establishes the new cellular memory.

OVERVIEW

1. An hour prior to getting in your car with your dog, find a quiet, calm place and perform the acupressure treatment described here.

2. Try to keep your car trips short the first few times you try the acupressure.

3. If your dog begins looking uncomfortable on the road, find a place to pull over and rest for a while. Use the acupressure techniques for a few minutes before continuing.


Nancy Zidonis and Amy Snow are the authors of, The Well-Connected Dog: A Guide to Canine Acupressure. They own Tallgrass Publishers, which offers meridian charts for dogs and other companion animals. They also provide training courses worldwide.

Spring Cleanup

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One thing struck me this year when I went to the biggest annual dog show in these parts: the Golden Gate Kennel Club All Breed Dog Show: These dog people are so friendly!

I attended the show to take pictures, mostly, and to educate myself about some of the less-common breeds. I mostly learned how much I don’t know. My husband (who is not a dog person but who came along to keep me company) kept saying, “What’s that dog?” And I’d turn around and look and have to say, “Gosh, I don’t know!” He asked, “Why does that Dalmatian have brown spots?” I had to reply, “Um, let me go ask that lady.” I’m sure he came away thinking I’m a fraud.

Back to my real point: the friendly, helpful dog people. I could not get over how uniformly welcoming and informative the exhibitors were, both “backstage” where the dogs were benched and even right outside the show rings. My last dog show experience, at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show in New York’s Madison Square Garden, was not nearly so positive. That show was crowded and hot, and the dogs and people were so cranky. At the Golden Gate show, exhibitors offered to take their dogs out of their crates for photos, they posed their dogs, they offered treats… It made me proud to be a “dog person.” My kudos to all attendees.

Dry dog foods corrections:
Every year, my number one goal for the February issue is to correctly report the phone numbers for all the dog food companies in the “Top Dry Dog Foods” article. I’m sorry to report that I’m not perfect yet.

The phone number I reported for Royal Canin, maker of “Natural Blend Holistic Dog Food” was wrong. The correct number for callers in the U.S. is (800) 592-6687. In Canada, call (800) 527-2673.

I did correctly report the number for Artemis Pet Food, maker of “Artemis Natural 6 Mix,” but the phone has not been in order. At press time, Artemis promised it would be working soon. If it’s not, you can call (818) 402-9496; that’s not a toll-free call, however.

PHD Pet Products, maker of one on our longtime favorite dry foods, has a new phone number: (800) 743-1502.

Stand by for the next issue, which will contain responses we’ve had from dog food makers concerning our January article about dog food manufacturing plants (“Made in a Secret Location”), as well as reader responses to our latest e-collar article (“Simply Shocking,” February).

Finally, thanks for all your kind notes regarding my recent loss. My job and my personal life seem to cross over quite a bit, and I really appreciate your support.


-Nancy Kerns

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