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Identifying Fungal Infections in Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey
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0
Dog fungal infections can show up in the paws and ears.
It’s a good idea to check in with your veterinarian if you suspect your dog might have a fungal infection. Credit: Zontica | Getty Images

Dog fungal infections can be classified as one of three types—systemic, skin, or ear fungal infections. Systemic fungal infections affect one or more body systems. Skin or ear fungal infections affect only the skin or ears.

Systemic Fungal Infections

Most systemic dog fungal infections are caused by inhaling fungal spores from the environment. These infections begin in either the nose or the lungs. They may spread to other areas of the body via the bloodstream or the lymphatic system. Systemic fungal infections are not common in dogs but may be more prevalent in certain areas of the United States.

Cryptococcosis

Cryptococcosis is caused by fungi in the species Cryptococcus, such as Cryptococcus neoformans and Cryptococcus gattii. Cryptococcus is found primarily in soil and bird droppings, particularly the droppings of pigeons. This fungus has no geographic predilection and is found throughout the world.

Symptoms of cryptococcosis include generic nasal signs—such as sneezing, snorting, and nasal discharge—along with sudden blindness, difficulty walking in a straight line, sudden behavior change, and seizures.

Blastomycosis

Blastomycosis is caused by the fungus Blastomyces dermatitidis. Blastomyces prefers an environment of moist soil and decaying leaves along waterways and swamps. It is found in the following geographic regions of North America:

  • Mississippi, Missouri, and Ohio River valleys
  • Mid-Atlantic states
  • South-central states
  • Southern regions of the Canadian provinces of Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Quebec and Ontario

Symptoms of blastomycosis include coughing, fever, decreased appetite, weight loss, and lethargy. Other symptoms may appear depending on where the infection has spread—these include:

  • Open skin sores that drain fluid or pus
  • Blindness
  • Lameness
  • Seizures
  • Swollen testicles
  • Enlarged lymph nodes

Histoplasmosis

Histoplasmosis is caused by the fungus Histoplasma capsulatum. Histoplasma prefers to proliferate in dust and soil that contains bird or bat feces. It has been reported in several Central and Eastern states, particularly states that include the Mississippi and Ohio River Valleys.

Histoplasma infects its host when the spores of the fungus are inhaled or ingested. Once the fungal spores enter the lungs or the gastrointestinal tract, they can spread to other areas of the body through the bloodstream or lymphatic system.

Symptoms of histoplasmosis include coughing, fever, diarrhea, black and tarry stools, straining to defecate, weight loss, decreased appetite, and lethargy. Other symptoms may appear depending on where the infection has spread—these include:

  • Open skin sores that drain fluid or pus
  • Blindness
  • Lameness
  • Seizures
  • Enlarged lymph nodes

Coccidioidomycosis (also known as Valley Fever)

Coccidioidomycosis is caused by the fungi Coccidioides immitus and Coccidioides posadasii. Coccidioides is found primarily in the southwestern United States, including California, Arizona, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, and Texas. It is the pathogen behind Valley Fever in dogs. There have also been reports of the fungus being found in south-central Washington State.

The most common symptom of coccidioidomycosis is a chronic cough. Other symptoms may appear depending on where the infection has spread—these include:

  • Open skin sores that drain fluid or pus
  • Blindness
  • Lameness
  • Seizures
  • Enlarged lymph nodes
  • Fever
  • Decreased appetite and weight loss

Aspergillosis

Aspergillosis is caused by fungi in the class Aspergillus. Aspergillus is found in both indoor and outdoor environments. It prefers to grow on food, dead leaves, and compost piles. There are many species of Aspergillus but only a small number of them can cause disease in dogs.

Healthy dogs have immune mechanisms in place to prevent inhaled Aspergillus spores from causing disease. Dogs that are immunocompromised or that are taking immunosuppressive medications are at increased risk of developing aspergillosis.

The most common symptom of aspergillosis is a chronic, foul-smelling nasal discharge that does not respond to antibiotic therapy. Nasal discharge often comes from only one nostril and may be bloody. The nostril may become irritated and ulcerated.

Other symptoms may appear depending on where the infection has spread—these include:

  • Open skin sores that drain fluid or pus
  • Blindness
  • Lameness
  • Seizures
  • Enlarged lymph nodes
  • Fever
  • Decreased appetite and weight loss

Skin and Ear Fungal Infections

Skin and ear dog fungal infections are typically caused by an overgrowth of the yeast Malassezia pachydermatis. This is a yeast that is a normal part of the skin and ear flora. The exception is dermatophytosis, also known as ringworm. This fungal infection of the skin is caused by contact with a fungus in the environment.

Dermatophytosis (ringworm)

Dermatophytosis is caused by the fungi Microsporum canis, Microsporum gypseum, and Trichophyton mentagrophytes. It is known as ringworm because the red, raised circular lesion that occurs in people looks like a worm in the shape of an undulating ring under the skin. This is not how the lesion appears in dogs!

Ringworm lesions in dogs may include hair loss, scaling or crusting of the skin, and small raised circular nodules called papules. These lesions can be itchy, so dogs may scratch at or lick these lesions.

Dogs can contract dermatophytosis from direct contact with an infected cat or dog (Microsporum canis), soil contaminated with ringworm spores (Microsporum gypseum), or an infected rodent or other small animal (Trichophyton mentagrophytes). Dogs can also develop ringworm lesions after being groomed with contaminated clippers or other grooming tools. Dogs can contract dermatophytosis from infected humans.

Healthy adult dogs are usually able to resolve solitary ringworm lesions on their own without treatment. Puppies, senior dogs, and dogs that are immunocompromised are more likely to develop multiple ringworm lesions. The immune systems of these dogs are either too immature  or not strong enough to effectively clear a ringworm infection. They will require treatment to resolve their dermatophytosis.

Ringworm is zoonotic—this means that you can get ringworm from your dog. And your dog can get ringworm from you! For this reason, even healthy adult dogs that are expected to resolve their infection may receive treatment. Treatment for ringworm will shorten the amount of time it takes to resolve ringworm lesions, thereby reducing the chance of transmitting ringworm to others.

Ringworm can be a common occurrence in animal shelters and other high density housing situations. Ringworm is not common in dogs residing in typical family households.

Fungal Dermatitis and Otitis

Fungal dermatitis and otitis—also known as a yeast infection of the skin and ears—is caused by an overgrowth of a yeast called Malassezia pachydermatis. Your dog’s skin naturally has Malassezia as well as bacteria growing on its surface. This population of yeast and bacteria is called the normal skin flora. It is part of the skin’s immune system and keeps fungi and bacteria from growing on the skin surface that can cause your dog harm.

An infection with Malassezia is often secondary to another underlying skin or ear condition. Atopic dermatitis is a common underlying cause of fungal dermatitis and otitis. Increased moisture in the ear canals or skin folds promotes an overgrowth of Malassezia.

Symptoms of a fungal ear infection include a brown, greasy, often smelly discharge from the ears, redness around the ear canal opening, and scratching at the infected ear. Other symptoms include shaking the head, holding one ear flap close to the head, and sensitivity about having the infected ear touched.

Fungal dermatitis can cause the skin to become red, itchy, flaky, and have a musty odor. Skin can also become thickened and look like the skin of an elephant. Chronic fungal skin infections can cause the skin to become hyperpigmented (black). Dogs with fungal dermatitis will excessively lick or scratch at the affected skin.

Fungal dermatitis and otitis are common in dogs. Dogs that have an underlying skin condition—such as atopic dermatitis, seborrhea oleosa (oily skin) or an endocrine disorder—are more likely to develop fungal dermatitis and otitis. Certain breeds of dogs may be genetically predisposed to developing fungal dermatitis and otitis. These include the West Highland White Terrier, Basset Hound, Cocker Spaniel, Silky Terrier, Australian Terrier, Maltese Terrier, Chihuahua, Poodle, Shetland Sheepdog, Lhasa Apso, and Dachshund.

Thankfully, fungal dermatitis and otitis are not contagious conditions. This means that if one dog in your family is afflicted with this condition, he cannot transmit it to any other animals (or humans!) in your home.

Conclusion

Systemic fungal infections in dogs are not common but can be seen more often in certain geographic regions. If you have any concern that the symptoms your dog is exhibiting could be caused by a systemic fungal infection, have your dog evaluated by his veterinarian as soon as possible. Be sure to mention your concerns to his veterinarian. The systemic fungal infections described in this article can be treated successfully if diagnosed early.

Skin and ear fungal infections are less serious than systemic fungal infections but can negatively impact your dog’s quality of life. Your veterinarian may recommend a diagnostic workup to identify the underlying condition so that your dog can receive appropriate treatment.

Recognizing Displacement Behavior in Dogs

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Licking can be a sign of displacement behavior in dogs.
When a dog displays an otherwise normal behavior, such as licking, at odd times, it may be a sign he is feeling conflicted or frustrated. Credit: Artur Debat |Getty Images

Dogs sometimes do things that seem out of place. Maybe your dog runs to get a drink of water whenever company arrives at your house, or he whines and yawns when approaching a friendly dog. These out-of-context moments are examples of displacement behavior in dogs.

 

 

What is Displacement Behavior?

Displacement behavior is when your dog does something normal, but at a weird time that feels out of context. This occurs when your dog is experiencing conflict or frustration.

Conflict is when your dog feels pulled between reactions to a situation. The pressure can result from two different things that are positive to the dog but can’t be done at once, or one option could come with fear or anxiety. Some examples include if your dog:

  • Wants to visit you when you get home, but also wants to chase cars.
  • Wants to approach another dog, but is nervous.
  • Wants to pull on the leash, but knows he isn’t supposed to.
  • Wants to go to the person calling him, but is scared of an obstacle, such as a shiny floor.

Frustration is when your dog wants to do something, but is blocked or otherwise prevented from doing it. For example, she:

  • Wants to visit a person, but on a leash.
  • Wants to approach another dog, but is behind a fence.

Examples of Displacement Behavior

There are many things that a dog might do as a displacement behavior. These include:

  • excessive licking
  • yawning
  • circling
  • whining
  • barking
  • sniffing
  • tongue flick
  • grabbing a toy
  • drinking
  • eating
  • scratching
  • mounting

Which behavior the dog does can vary by the situation and the individual dog.

Here are three examples of displacement behaviors in action:

  1. Many dogs want to greet other dogs but are unsure about how the other dog will respond. They respond to this conflict between wanting to play and wanting to maintain a safe distance by licking excessively, eating grass, or yawning.
  2. My oldest dog prefers to be with me at all times. If my husband is holding her leash – even if I am within sight – she whines and paces side to side. She is with a person she likes, but is prevented from reaching me, her favorite person. This frustration comes out as whining and pacing.
  3. My youngest dog is always in a hurry and tends to pull on the leash. I have worked on this a lot, primarily by standing still when she puts tension on the leash. She understands that keeping a loose lead means the walk will continue, but she really wants to go fast! Her solution to this conflict (wanting to be good and get to walk, but wanting to go faster) is to smush her face between my knees and walk beneath me for several steps.

What Displacement Behavior Means

If you notice your dog showing a displacement behavior, consider his overall body language and the situation that he is in. Is he mostly loosey-goosey and relaxed, or is his body language stressed? Displacement behavior can be a response to stress, but stress isn’t always a bad thing.

Stress is a normal part of life. Your dog experiences positive stress when he is excited about something, and negative stress when he is anxious. Short bouts of stress from conflict or frustration are nothing to be concerned about. The issue is when stress becomes a frequent occurrence or if it is interfering with your dog’s ability to enjoy day-to-day life.

If your dog quickly bounces back and is relaxed and happy or playing after showing displacement behavior, it just means he was temporarily unsure about or frustrated by the situation. For example, maybe he started eating grass as he approached another dog, but then they greeted each other politely and started playing. This is nothing to worry about.

However, if your dog continues to show signs of distress even after the initial conflict has resolved, or if frustration can’t be addressed, this could be problematic in the long term. Let’s go back to the example of a dog worried about a shiny floor. His owner is calling him, and he wants to go to her, but is afraid of the floor and starts whining and licking his lips. He finally goes to his owner but continues to pant and be tense with the whites of his eyes showing for ten minutes after the event. This dog is distressed.

If your dog barks hysterically out the window at dogs that he can’t approach for hours on end, he is staying in that stressed, hyper-aroused state for an extended period of time. This prolonged frustration isn’t great for him (plus it is probably driving you and your neighbors insane).

What to Do When You See Displacement Behavior

Consider what your dog is doing, why he is doing it, and how he behaves after the displacement behavior ends. All of these factors will affect how you should respond.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior stem from frustration? Try to identify the cause of the frustration and eliminate it. This will minimize your dog’s stress and prevent the reaction from becoming a bad habit. For example, if your dog screams when he sees other dogs out the window because he wants to play, prevent him from looking out the window by blocking access to that room or putting up opaque window clings.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior come from a place of insecurity and conflict, but then resolve positively? For example, the dog who is nervous about approaching another dog but then plays happily. You can reduce this displacement behavior by building up your dog’s confidence and comfort around other dogs. Arrange playdates with calm, friendly dogs that you know will be gentle with your dog so he can have a lot of positive experiences approaching and interacting with other dogs.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior come from fear, and have the potential to end badly? For example, a dog who alternates between barking and lunging at another dog and retreating fearfully, even if the other dog is calm. This dog is distressed and could potentially bite the other dog if pushed too hard. If you find yourself in this situation, get your dog out of there as quickly and safely as possible. Strong fear of other dogs should be addressed with the help of a veterinary behaviorist and/or your veterinarian.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior come from insecurity or fear, and lead to prolonged anxiety? For example, the dog who is afraid of the shiny floor and stays stressed out even after getting to his owner. You can reduce this displacement behavior by avoiding shiny floors, providing rugs or mats for your dog to walk on, and/or a desensitization program to help your dog become more comfortable with the shiny floors.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior itself have the potential to cause harm? For example, a dog who obsessively licks one spot on his leg when he experiences conflict or frustration. This dog could eventually create bald patches and even damage the skin if he continues licking. Try to identify the cause of your dog’s behavior and eliminate the source if possible. You will likely also need help from your veterinarian or a behaviorist to prevent physical damage and break the habit.

Redirected Aggression

Redirected aggression is similar to displacement behavior, but works a little differently. The classic example of redirected aggression is when a dog wants to attack a dog on the outside of his fence but can’t get to it, so he bites his owner or a housemate instead. A dog showing redirected aggression is extremely frustrated, but instead of finding an innocuous displacement behavior such as grabbing a toy or whining to vent that frustration, he does exactly what he wants to do to the first poor soul who gets in his way.

The Bottom Line

Periodic, mild episodes of displacement behavior are a normal response to conflict or frustration. When possible, identify the source of your dog’s conflict or frustration so that you can address both the feelings and the behavior.

If your dog’s displacement behavior itself could cause harm, or if the result of the situation causes distress for anyone involved, start by avoiding the situation while you seek help from your veterinarian and/or a veterinary behaviorist.

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Nancy Kerns
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How to Win the Body-Language Game

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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1
Dog dogging away from a person who is hovering over him.
We humans love to loom over dogs and pat them on the head—often failing to notice their signals that they’d rather not interact that way (in this case, pulling away with a head duck).

When dog behavior doesn’t make sense to us, it’s easy to just shrug and say our dogs are stubborn or crazy. But often a productive answer is right there in front of us, if only we’re willing to look at dog body language—and our own.

The way we humans move matters. For example, do you stand tall and walk toward your dog when you’re calling him? That may be why he doesn’t come to you. On Planet Dog, that direct-facing approach sends a message to stop or back up. (Much better to angle to the side and start moving back a bit as you call—that tells your dog to come along.)

But it’s not just our human movement that deserves attention. The subtleties of our dog’s movement matters, too. When you sit down next to your dog for a cuddle, does she look away or lean away? Does she yawn or lick her lips? If she does those things, but you continue petting her, you may have an answer for why she “doesn’t listen” to you in general: You’re not listening to her, either, so she feels a bit on her own.

Instead, when you see one of those signals, give your dog space. Back up a foot. Now does she come over for a snuggle? Great! If not, also great, because you listened to her, which will build some critical trust.

Canids + Primates = Misunderstandings

Dog body language can communicate clear signs of discomfort.
The squinting eyes, the lip lick, and the flattened ears are a neon sign that this dog is incredibly uncomfortable. That’s important communication, and the owner who listens and adjusts will be rewarded with increased trust and better behavior. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Canids and primates use their bodies differently. Dr. Patricia McConnell’s classic book The Other End of the Leash powerfully illustrates how that’s at the root of an enormous amount of dog-human misunderstanding. Many of the issues that send people to dog trainers—and eventually veterinary behaviorists, as things escalate—stem from our human lack of attention to body language. It’s also the hidden cause of the confusion and disappointment that runs through countless dog-human relationships.

“We humans are talking . . . but our dogs are watching,” Dr. McConnell writes. “Once you learn to focus on the visual signals between you and your dog, the impact of even tiny movements will become overwhelmingly obvious.”

For example, let’s say there’s a new dog you’re hoping to befriend. In your human (primate) style, you’re inclined to move in close, get face-to-face, reach out and even hug, just like chimps and bonobos would. But when dogs (or wolves and coyotes) have a friendly intent, they would not do any of those things. Oops. No wonder the dog ducks away, backs up, or even growls if he doesn’t have the ability to retreat.

Let’s say you knew enough to approach that dog in a more canine way; you start by giving the dog some space, angle slightly to the side, crouch, and glance away. McConnell notes that a human leaning in just half an inch makes a dog move away, where leaning back just slightly works as an invitation. The difference of an inch is dramatic in terms of building a relationship!

“Felt Safety” is Critical

Given how important body language is, why is it that beginner dog training classes never seem to spend any time on it? I suspect the answer is that we humans are in a rush to learn something that feels “real” and seems obviously helpful, like sit or stay.

Well, ask any veterinary behaviorist who’s counseled folks after dog bites, and they’ll tell you learning two-way body language is plenty useful and frankly a lot more important than “heel.”

Your skill in this area determines whether your dog feels safe with you and whether you’re able to assess when your dog feels uncomfortable.

It typically doesn’t even cross our minds that our dogs don’t feel safe. After all, we know they’re safe! But being safe and feeling safe are two very different things, and if an animal (humans included) doesn’t have “felt safety” it can affect an enormous range of behaviors. Dogs who feel safer become less skittish, obviously—but also less barky, less jumpy, more able to settle, and more attentive because they trust that listening to humans will work out well for them.

This is where the importance of body language comes in: Our body movement can either make our dogs feel safer or less safe. And our attention to their body language can either make them feel safer or less safe. It’s not an exaggeration to say that getting this right will transform your relationship with your dog.

Body Language 101

For me, Body Language Lesson #1 is teaching humans to get in the habit of giving their dog agency, the ability to choose. By being intentional with our own body movement, we can offer the relationship-building gift of distance. We can train ourselves to stop a foot or two away and invite the interaction rather than forcing it. We can stop the striding in with big footsteps and a direct approach. We can stop looming, cornering our dogs in small spaces, and swooping in to pick them up and hold them prisoner. In short, we can stop smothering them with our primate displays of affection.

If that key lesson is absorbed, it becomes a little less important to become an immediate expert at what is a trickier subject: truly reading your own dog’s body language. Almost everyone can see that a dog who’s running away, pulling away, or shaking is afraid. But sometimes we need a trainer to teach us how to look for loose, relaxed body language versus a stiff, still posture that signals uneasiness. There is much more to learn to recognize in time—tucked tails, lip-licking, rolling over, the lifting of one paw, a whale eye, etc.—but giving space and agency is an immediate game-changer.

Charades Mindset Helps

While most of the critical body-language-reading moments of the day do not happen during a training session—bites happen at Thanksgiving, not during training! —casual daily at-home sessions are incredibly helpful. Frequent practice in a predictable, rewarding situation will smooth the communication path between you and your dog. I encourage folks to make a daily habit of a handful of relaxed, fun, two-minute lessons. Teach easy, low-pressure stuff, such as touch and spin. By working on these things that “don’t matter,” you’ll be building your fluency together, which is the whole ballgame.

Have you ever played the game charades? When you’re trying to get better at body language, I think it’s helpful to use that game’s mindset as you train. The skills it takes to win at charades are 100% relevant to the skills it takes to build solid two-way communication with your dog:

  • Think through what you’re going to communicate beforehand.
  • Keep it simple or you’ll throw your teammate off.
  • No extraneous body movements or you could get onto a tangent you can’t get back from.
  • Clear your mind as you’re trying to decipher their clues, because your own thoughts will take you down the wrong road.
  • Give your full attention to your partner.
  • Understand that each round is half their job, but also half your job.

Your dog has actually been trying to play charades with you forever! He’s been watching your every move, trying to assess its meaning, and hoping you’ll respond to the clues he offers. Imagine his delight when he finds his teammate is suddenly coming to practice and engaged in the game! You’ll both end up enjoying the prize, which is a deepening interspecies friendship filled with trust and understanding.

What is a Reactive Dog? Understanding Reactivity

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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0
A dog restrained by a leash attempts to charge another dog on a leash.
For some dogs, the frustration created by a barrier such as a leash or fence can trigger reactive behavior. Photo by Anton Novikov, Getty Images

Reactivity in dogs is an abnormal level of arousal in response to a normal stimulus. “Reactive” doesn’t necessarily imply aggression, although some dogs with reactive behaviors certainly can be aggressive. It just means a dog who gets way too excited over something in her environment—and not just excited as in, “Oh hi, I’m so happy to see you!” Rather, it’s way too excited as in an alarmingly aroused “Bark, bark, bark, lunge,” and maybe even a canine scream or two and possible escalation to biting.

Note that I use the phrase, “a dog with reactive behavior” rather than “reactive dog.” While a dog’s reactive behavior can be overwhelming to her human, it usually only occurs in specific trigger circumstances. Labeling your dog a “reactive dog” reduces her to her least favorable trait, when in fact most of the time she may be a lovely canine companion, especially if you do a good job of managing her exposure to her trigger stimuli.

What Causes a Dog to Display Reactive Behavior?

The most common causes of reactive behavior in dogs are:

  • Excitement/Frustration. We often see this behavior with dogs who have a history of being able to perform a particular behavior and now are prevented from doing so.

The most common example is a dog who has been allowed to regularly greet other dogs at will, both on and off leash, and is now restricted by her leash or a fence. This is known as “leash-reactivity.” These are the dogs who are likely to be socially appropriate if and when they are allowed to greet another dog without restraint.

A reactive chihuahua snarls at the camera.
Understanding what your dog is reacting to is an important part of determining the best way to modify the behavior. Photo by Michelle Kelley Photography, Getty Images

This is often the simplest reactive behavior to modify, as we don’t need to change the dog’s emotional response to her trigger from negative to positive, we just have to tone down her excitement arousal. This dog’s primary motivation is usually not aggression.

However, if her high level of arousal is intimidating or offensive to the other dog, this can trigger defensive aggression from the recipient of her extreme emotions. Excitement reactivity is also a common behavior with dogs who have other impulse-control challenges. See “Dog Impulse-Control Training,” WDJ November 2021.

  • Defensive Reactivity. This is most often seen with dogs who have fear-related behaviors and often begins to present somewhere between the age of 6 months to a year.

Fearful puppies often just shut down when they feel threatened. As they begin to mature, they can become a little more confident about making a statement – on one occasion they growl when approached rather than just shutting down, and the person or other dog backs away. The dog realizes, “Hey, that worked—I’m going to do that again!” The behavior is reinforced by the removal of the aversive stimulus. Behaviors that are reinforced tend to increase, and the defensive-aggressive reactive behavior escalates.

Defensive reactivity in dogs may also be the result of a past association. A dog who was previously attacked by other dogs or badly treated by humans can also become defensive. As the defensive behavior increases and (in the dog’s mind) is effective in keeping the dog alive, the behavior may eventually morph into full-blown reactivity.

  • Offensive Reactivity. These dogs are not just putting on a show in order to make other dogs keep their distance; they really will attack other dogs.

This can be the most challenging of the various reactive behaviors and will likely require an extensive amount of behavior modification to change the dog’s strong, offensive emotional response. This dog may never be compatible with other dogs or completely trustworthy around her triggers, but with work may be able to be socially appropriate when properly managed.

How to Modify Your Dog’s Reactivity

As with all behavior challenges, the first important step is management. The better you are at managing your dog’s environment to prevent opportunities for her to practice the behavior, the more successful your modification program will be. You also have an obligation to prevent your dog from upsetting the world around her with her strong emotional responses. This might mean enrichment and exercise in your own yard rather than on-leash walks around the neighborhood that result in multiple reactive incidents every time – or scheduling your walks very early or late in the day when other people are less likely to be out with their dogs.

It also means keeping your radar on when you walk (not talking on your cell phone) so you can do avoidance moves like “Walk Away” the moment you see a potential trigger stimulus in the distance. See “How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away,” WDJ September 2018.

Other measures might include the Thunder Cap/Calming Cap (to reduce visual stimuli for your dog), making veterinary appointments for your dog at low activity times and/or asking your vet to let you wait in the car and come in a back entrance, and talking to your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medications if appropriate (see “Anti-Anxiety Medications for Dogs,” February 2023).

For the actual modification of reactive behavior, you have choices. Counter conditioning and desensitization is usually my first choice. It is a relatively simple protocol that people are often (but not always!) able to implement without much guidance from a behavior professional.

With the stimulus at a below-threshold intensity (for reactivity this is usually the distance from the trigger where your dog notices but isn’t reacting), you feed your dog a high value treat (such as fresh bits of roasted chicken) every time she looks at the trigger, until her behavior indicates that she begins to think, “Chicken!” when she sees the stimulus, rather than “Bark and get excited!” We call this the “conditioned emotional response.” The stronger your dog’s emotional response to her triggers, the longer it is likely to take for her to get there. See “Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization for Reducing Dog Reactivity,” on the WDJ website.

I have also had success modifying reactive behavior using the Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) procedure. This is a more complex protocol that usually requires working closely with your favorite qualified force-free professional. In this procedure, the dog learns that calm behavior makes the unpleasant or uncomfortable stimuli go away; eventually the dog becomes calm and no longer feels the need to display reactive behavior. (“Reverse CAT” works the opposite way; the frustrated dog learns to stay calm in order to make good things come closer.) See “Modifying Aggressive Dog Behavior,” May 2008.

The above-described protocols can be very effective in modifying your dog’s reactive behavior, and a qualified force-free professional can offer you other options as well. See “Find the Best Trainer for You and Your Dog,” July 2023.

Don’t Punish

It is critical that you do not punish your dog for her reactive behavior. The stress you add by verbally or physically trying to “correct” your dog for her “bad” behavior will add tension to her already strong emotions. Remember that she is not choosing to be deliberately “bad” – she is overwhelmed by emotions that she cannot control. Even if you succeed in shutting down the reactive behavior in the moment, you are very likely to do more harm in the long run by adding to her emotional load. Recent studies confirm  that punishment and force-based methods can do significant damage to a dog’s quality of life. You don’t want to do that – you want to improve your dog’s quality of life!

Why Does My Puppy Have Diarrhea?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Puppies can experience stress, and this can lead to puppy diarrhea.
New puppy stress is real. Remember, the puppy has been taken from the only home he ever knew and away from his littermates. Loose stools and/or diarrhea can occur as a result. Credit: Danita Delimont | Getty Images

A puppy may have diarrhea for many reasons and usually is not reason to immediately overreact unless you’re seeing additional symptoms. Start with simple reasons for your new puppy’s diarrhea first:

  1. He has had major life changes. He is leaving the only home he has known, leaving his canine family, and moving to a new place with new people and maybe new animal friends. Diarrhea is a common stress reaction. Hold off on friends visiting your new puppy. Give him some time to settle in with quiet time and rest.
  2. Diet change. Most breeders send you home with a bag of the same food your pup has been eating. Stick with that food to start and go slow on treats (treat with the puppy’s kibble!). If you wish to change to a different food or diet plan, do it gradually.
  3. Parasites and illnesses. Anytime a dog has diarrhea, but especially with a puppy, parasites and illnesses need to be considered. Even if your breeder or rescue has dewormed him, take a fecal sample into your veterinarian. Better safe than sorry. Parasites like Giardia and coccidia can be missed with just one check or treatment.

When to Worry With Puppy Diarrhea

If the diarrhea is accompanied by vomiting, any blood in the stool, and signs of sickness such as a fever, lethargy, and not eating, your pup needs to be seen by your veterinarian. Puppies can dehydrate quickly, especially toy breed puppies who are susceptible to hypoglycemia – low blood sugar – as well.

If your puppy has diarrhea but is still playful and otherwise going gangbusters with some soft stool, you may be able to manage this at home with some care and careful observation:

  1. Keep him clean. The hardest problem with a playful, active pup with diarrhea is keeping him clean. Change bedding frequently and rinse off his rear and feet in the sink or the bathtub with warm water.
  2. Be sure he is hydrated. Make sure your pup is drinking. Dehydration is always a concern with a puppy with diarrhea. You can add a little electrolyte solution such as Pedialyte to his water, if needed.
  3. What to feed a puppy with diarrhea. Stick to bland food and skip the treats for now. A chicken and rice food or home-cooked plain (no seasonings) chicken breast and plain white rice are easy to digest. Canned mackerel is easy on the system. Add a small amount of plain canned pumpkin (not the pie version, which contains spices!) to help firm up stools. If stools don’t start to firm up in 24 to 36 hours, a veterinary visit is in order.

Digital Memories Can Hurt – But Time Heals

By
Nancy Kerns
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The more time that passes, the more likely you are to have pictures that feature several dogs who are no longer with you.

If you, like me, have posted photos of your dogs on social media for a long time, there’s every chance that you, like me, get regularly smacked in the face by a Facebook “memory” – a picture of your beloved heart dog who passed some time ago. And the longer you have been online, the more dogs you have loved and lost will appear there – sometimes in a group shot!

It’s bittersweet, isn’t it? When you unexpectedly see a photo of a small happy or funny moment that you may have forgotten about without the photo’s resurfacing, it’s just as likely to make you smile as bring tears to your eyes. Well, the smiles get more common the more time that goes by. When I see photos of Rupert, my sweet, sensitive Border Collie who died in late 2003 at the age of 14 years, I smile every time. But I’m still prone to getting weepy if I see a post about Otto, whom I lost last June.

I’m aware that we can delete these old posts so they never are presented to us again as a “Facebook memory” – and I have deleted a few. I still have the photos, and I can look them up in my filing cabinets and on my backup drives. But there are some memories that are too hard to revisit – at least when it happens without warning, or when I don’t have time for processing the feelings that arise when I see the serious, loving gaze of Otto as an old dog; he had such gravitas!

The older the photo, the more likely I can look at it without pain. The older Otto got, the more he acted like a grumpy uncle or behavior cop to my foster dogs and puppies. But when he was young, he used to play with them! It makes me happy to remember that.

It’s far easier to revisit the memories and photos of him as a young dog, still trying to figure out life with humans and new to his role as the leader to and guide for foster puppies and dogs. This makes perfect sense; those memories are farther away from the present and the more painful recent past. Is there a way to change the Facebook settings so they only show us memories that are more than, say, five years old?

Even if there isn’t a way to do that, and even if Facebook serves up are painful reminders of my loss from time to time, I’m glad to have this weird little digital time capsule of my life with my dogs, both the ones who have shared my life for years and years and the dozens of foster dogs who shared my home for just a few weeks or months. I never want to forget any of them.

My Dog Ate an Onion!

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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When your dog eats an onion it's natural to panic, but how much onion is toxic to dogs.
While fresh garden vegetables are as appealing to your dog as they are to you, be wary of onions, which are toxic to dogs. Credit: StephM2506 | Getty Images

Approximately 100 grams – about a half cup – of onion can be toxic to a 45-lb. dog. Onion powder is more concentrated, and therefore worse, but most dogs only get powder in small amounts in cooked foods.

A dog who ate an onion may vomit or have diarrhea, refuse to eat, and may have oral or gastric pain. You may notice difficulty breathing, lethargy, and/or feel a rapid heartbeat. Be aware, however: “Signs may not occur until several days after ingestion,” according to the American College of Apothecaries.

The toxic compound in onions is N-propyl disulphide. This substance destroys red blood cells and can lead to anemia. With anemia, your dog may become weak and lethargic. You might notice a rapid heartbeat if you feel your dog’s chest or see that his gums are pale.

What to Do If Your Dog Eats an Onion

If you realize your dog ate an onion, try to make him vomit. A tiny piece of onion won’t be a big problem in most dogs, except small dogs, but any large chunks or whole onions can cause toxicity. Contact your veterinarian immediately, even if you made your dog vomit.

The vet will induce vomiting and give activated charcoal to try and bind the toxic compound. In severe cases, your dog may need a transfusion. Blood samples will be drawn to check for anemia and Heinz bodies (damaged red blood cell proteins). Your dog may need recheck blood samples to ensure he is recovering from the onion ingestion.

Many onion exposures are small but if repeated could cause symptoms just like one big exposure. If you are feeding baby food to a tiny puppy or to tempt a finicky or sick dog, always check the ingredients. Many of these products include onion powder. If you cook a soup using onions, onion powder, or garlic in any form, do not share any with your dog.

Why Your Dog Keeps Eating Onions

Unfortunately, a whole onion may look like a toy or a ball to a dog, and they may chew on one while basically playing with it. Do not allow your dog to ingest or play with any allium vegetables, including onions, leeks, shallots, chives, or garlic. This includes the vegetables and powders. Ornamental chives also contain the toxic compound, so fence off areas in your garden with potentially dangerous flowers as well as any toxic vegetables. Many foods are toxic to dogs, and it’s wise to familiarize with them.

Dogs can eat many vegetables, including carrots – baby carrots are a little-dog favorite – and green beans (many dogs like them frozen!). Vegetables are a great healthy treat for dogs.

Babesiosis in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Walks in the wilderness are fun for both you and your dog, but can open them up to tickborne infections like babesiosis.
Ticks can’t jump. Instead, they hang out at the ends of grass waiting to latch onto an unsuspecting host, like a dog, spreading diseases like babesiosis. Credit: Faba Photography | Getty Images

Babesiosis is a tickborne disease that can affect dogs. Although the disease is seen worldwide, including in the United States, much of the what we know about babesiosis is from Europe.

Babesiosis is primarily transmitted through a tick bite but can infect puppies in utero and be spread by dog bites through saliva. The tiny parasite that causes babesiosis attacks and destroys red blood cell, causing anemia. While most dogs develop a slowly progressing illness with minimal symptoms, some dogs show an acute, aggressive illness.

An important consideration with babesiosis is that infected dogs never totally rid themselves of this infection, even with treatment. An infected dog is considered a lifetime carrier, with illness possible under stressful conditions. The dog may also serve as a potential source of infection for other dogs. Dogs used for blood transfusion donations should be screened for babesiosis. The same is true for any dog adopted out of a dog-fighting scenario.

Symptoms of Babesiosis

Symptoms of babesiosis include hematuria, which is blood in the urine; dark urine; pale membranes from the anemia; and weakness, swollen lymph nodes, and an enlarged and fragile spleen. Many dogs have a fever and are lethargic.

Many severely compromised dogs have immune disorders or have had their spleens removed.

Diagnosis of Babesiosis in Dogs

Diagnosis is done by identification of the parasites on blood smears or via PCR laboratory testing.

Treatment of Babesiosis in Dogs

Imidocarb, azithromycin and atovaquone, and clindamycin are all potential medications for treatment. Very anemic dogs may need transfusions and are acutely ill.

Avoiding Babesiosis

As with so many tickborne diseases, avoiding this disease starts with tick control. With so many options, from orals medications and topicals for the skin to collars, you should be able to find the right one for your dog.

Management such as making your yard and outdoor areas unattractive to ticks also helps. Repellent sprays can help to keep ticks off your dog. Be sure you know what a tick looks like and how to remove it and do daily checks, such as wiping your dog over with a lint roller after a hike in fields or woods to pick up ticks before they attach.

A vaccine in Europe only seems to work on certain species. No vaccine is available in North America as of this writing.

Can Dogs Eat Oatmeal?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Dogs can eat oatmeal provided it's cooked and made without additional ingredients.
You can let your dog have share some oatmeal, but be sure it’s made from plain oats and water without things like raisins or artificial sweeteners. Credit: Aleksandar Nakic | Getty Images

Your dog can safely eat most forms of oatmeal, but avoid those packets of flavored oatmeal, as they may contain other ingredients that are harmful to your dog, including the deadly sweetener xylitol. Stick with plain oats.

You have likely seen dog foods and treats that include oatmeal as an ingredient. That’s because it is nutritious. Beneficial nutrients in oatmeal for dogs include:

  • Fiber
  • Vitamin B
  • Omega-6 fatty acids
  • Magnesium
  • Zinc
  • Antioxidants

These qualities can help to support heart and gastro-intestinal tract health for your dog. Oatmeal also can help promote healthy weight and stable blood glucose levels. Oatmeal is good for dogs with diarrhea or loose stools because it’s high in fiber.

How to Feed Oatmeal to Dogs

When cooking oatmeal for your dog, use water instead of milk. Most dogs are lactose intolerant, so water is the better choice. Follow the instructions for the plain oats of your choice. You can even use overnight oats that soak overnight.

As with any new food, introduce oatmeal gradually so that your dog doesn’t get an upset stomach. Start with about a spoonful of cooked oatmeal at a time. You can work up to about 6 ounces of oatmeal a day per 25 pounds of the dog’s bodyweight.

If you plan to home-cook your dog’s meals rather than just feeding oatmeal as a supplemental snack, consult with a veterinary nutritionist or use BalanceIt.com to formulate a complete and balanced diet. This will ensure that your dog gets all the nutrients that she needs to be happy and healthy long term.

And don’t forget to let the oatmeal cool before you serve it to your dog!

Oatmeal in Dog Food

Oatmeal is sometimes used in commercial dog foods as an alternate carbohydrate source instead of wheat, rice, or corn. Provided that the dog food packaging has an AAFCO statement declaring that it is formulated to meet nutritional standards for your dog’s life stage, you are all set to feed it to your dog as-is.

Oatmeal is also used in many treats that your dog may enjoy.

Can Dogs Eat Uncooked Oatmeal?

Dogs should not eat uncooked “raw” oatmeal. The cooking process makes it easier for dogs to digest. Eating dry uncooked oatmeal in large quantities may cause your dog to bloat, which is a medical emergency.

Can Dogs Eat Oatmeal Cookies?

Dogs can eat oatmeal cookies once in a great while depending on what else is in them. Remember that raisins and chocolate chips are both toxic to dogs, which rules out many oatmeal cookies. The high sugar content of many cookies is not ideal for our canine companions, however.

Unless you are certain all the ingredients in an oatmeal cookie are safe for dogs, keep that treat for yourself.

5 Reasons to Microchip Your Dog

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Microchipping a dog offers many advantages for locating the dog, and tracking health records.
Universal dog microchip scanners can be used to identify any dog with a microchip and get that dog back to the owner. Credit: Ali Cobanoglu | Getty Images

YES, microchipping your dog is 100% worth it! This quick, easy, inexpensive process gives your dog permanent identification that will stay with her for life no matter where she goes. If she ever gets lost, that microchip will be the best bet you have of being reunited.

Five reasons to microchip your dog are:

  1. Collars and tags can fall off, but microchips are forever.
  2. Once your dog’s microchip is registered with your contact information, it will stay in the database forever.
  3. You can quickly and easily update your contact information online.
  4. Almost all shelters, vet clinics, and animal control officers have universal scanners to check a lost dog for a microchip.
  5. Microchips are safe, easy to implant, and inexpensive.

A microchip is permanent identification that shows the dog is linked to you. Each chip has a unique number. Most chip numbers also indicate the company that made the chip.

Once a microchip has been implanted under your dog’s skin (usually behind the shoulder blades), the chip needs to be registered with the manufacturer. In other words, if your dog’s microchip was purchased from HomeAgain, you will register through HomeAgain, if the chip was made by PetLink you will register with PetLink, and so on.

How Much to Microchip a Dog?

The cost of a microchip for a dog is generally $30 to $60, but that will vary depending on where you live and the brand of microchip used. The cost includes the microchip itself, implantation of the chip under your dog’s skin, and registration.

You do not have to purchase an annual subscription from the manufacturer for your dog’s and your information to remain in their database. These basic features are forever. The annual subscriptions provide additional features that vary from brand to brand, so read the details to see if you are interested.

When to Microchip Your Dog

The microchip can be implanted once your dog is 6 weeks old. It can be done during a routine vaccine appointment, or while your dog is under anesthesia for a spay or neuter surgery or a dental cleaning.

Microchip Registration Is Critical

Registering the microchip is what links the unique code in your dog’s microchip with your name and contact information. Most chips can be registered online, and you can choose to add multiple family members or co-owners as desired. Your veterinary clinic staff may register the microchip for you at the time of implantation, so be sure to ask how to access the account so you can keep your contact info up to date.

If your dog gets lost, most veterinarians, animal control officers, and shelters now have universal scanners to scan for a microchip. This means that one scanner can read microchips made by many manufacturers. When the person who scanned your dog has the microchip number, they can look it up online to then contact the company and get your contact information. In a matter of minutes, they can call you to let you know your dog is safe and sound. A study by Linda Lord, published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Association, showed that the biggest reason microchipped pets were not returned to their owners was failure of the owners to update the information in the microchip database.

Why Your Dog is Licking Their Back Near the Tail

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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0
If your dog keeps licking back near tail he could be suffering from discomfort due to allergies, or another issue.
A dog who is constantly licking the base of his tail is reacting to discomfort. Credit: Maryna Terletska | Getty Images

A dog who spends a lot of time licking near the base of his tail is often suffering from anal gland issues, allergies, or both. Allergies, especially a food allergy, can cause inflammation of the anal glands, which is irritating to the dog.

Other potential causes of a dog licking the base of the tail include fleas in the area, hot spots, perianal fistulas, and perianal tumors. If your dog is licking back there a lot, take a good look at the general area yourself.

The dog’s licking implies something is uncomfortable. The sooner you get a veterinary diagnosis and appropriate treatment the sooner your best friend and companion is feeling better and can get back to living his best life.

Anal Gland Inflammation

The anal glands are two natural scent glands that sit at approximately 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock, if the anus was a clock face. Each time the dog has a bowel movement, a little of the anal gland secretions are squeezed out, keeping the glands from uncomfortably overfilling. Some dogs, depending on how the gland and its opening are anatomically situated, are unable to achieve this natural anal gland expression.

These dogs will either scoot on their behinds or lick obsessively at the area to try and relieve the uncomfortable pressure. For these dogs, routine manual anal gland expression is usually recommended to keep them comfortable. In addition to overfilling, anal glands can become inflamed, impacted, or infected.

For these dogs, working with your veterinarian is critical to getting the problem diagnosed and controlled. Additionally, your dog may need to have his inflamed anal glands flushed and an anti-inflammatory ointment infused into the gland. Impacted anal glands require manual expression by your veterinarian. Infected anal glands are usually treated with a flush, oral antibiotics, oral anti-inflammatory medications, and warm water soaks or sitz baths to encourage draining.

Allergies and Inflammation

Dogs with allergies lick and scratch a lot, sometimes all over, sometimes only in certain areas, such as around the base of the tail. If your dog is licking or chewing a lot back near the tail, the first thing to do is check for fleas, and if he is not on an effective flea control product, get him on one. Itching, licking, and chewing in the rump area, where the tail is, is frequently due to flea allergy dermatitis (FAD).

Licking under the base of tail and around the sides is often associated with food allergy. Your veterinarian will likely recommend a special diet trial to see if the urge to lick goes away while on a hypoallergenic food. If it does, keeping your dog on that food should resolve the licking.

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Nancy Kerns 4
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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