We talk a lot about complementary health care practices here at WDJ: chiropractic, herbal remedies, acupuncture, and so on. But we dont discriminate against modern veterinary medicine. Not at all.
Its true that were sometimes critical of some modern veterinary medical practices; we often hear about doctors who do little but dispense the holy trinity of modern pharmacology antibiotics, steroids, and vaccines and refer anything that fails to respond to these to specialists. When all you have is a hammer, the saying goes, everything looks like a nail.
We also fret about doctors who are insensitive to the side effects of their treatments; there are many times when dogs might be better off with less-effective, but less-harmful treatments.
The underlying mission of this publication, however, is to discuss and promote whatever works to improve the health and happiness of dogs, while doing the least harm. We find that the healing arts that are aimed at gently affecting the bodys own self-healing processes seem to work in a quietly effective manner. But we also celebrate the marvels of technological and pharmacological innovations that allow veterinarians to diagnose and treat conditions that slower, gentler healing methods wouldnt be able to address in time.
Most of all, we discuss methods that complement each other to provide for the most effective and least harmful treatment. The case history that appears on page 16 of this issue is a perfect example of this. Its about a dog who required a major surgery in order to get around and who recovered to perfect soundness with the help of physical and aquatherapy, supplements, stretching, and so on.
Believe me, I practice what we preach. My 11-year-old Border Collie, Rupert, had a major health crisis last month a sudden attack of cardiac arrythmia. He was walking toward me in our backyard when suddenly he started staggering and then sat down hard, panting. I ran to him, and could immediately feel that his heart was pounding like it was going to pop out of his chest. I rushed Rupert right down to the emergency veterinary clinic, not entirely certain he would survive the 15-minute drive down the freeway.
A veterinary technician took one look at Ruperts white gums and rushed him into the back of the hospital. They gave Rupert oxygen as they hooked him up to a heart monitor, and quickly administered some drugs to slow his heart. Twenty minutes later, they had his heart rate under control, although the rhythm was still whacky. With printouts from the heart monitor in hand, the veterinarian was able to tell me what Ruperts condition was called ventricular tachycardia but we would have no idea of what caused it without further tests.
Long story short: Rupert is doing fine, and taking a pill twice a day that keeps his heart rate and rhythm steady. After a couple of days and a couple thousand dollars worth of diagnostics at the Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital at the University of California at Davis, we now know that Ruperts heart and all his other organs are in fine condition, and he does not have cancer or any strange infections. In other words, we still have no clue as to what caused the arrythmia. But, thanks to modern medicine, we have it under control.
Im supposed to take Rupie back to Davis in a few weeks, to take him off the medication while being monitored. If his heart goes whacky again, then he goes back on the medicine, probably for life. If his heart stays steady, well cross our fingers and hope for the best. In the meantime, under the guidance of a veterinary herbalist and with Ruperts cardiologists blessings, Im starting him on a herb that is supposed to help regulate and strengthen the heart. And Ill keep you posted about how hes doing.
Many of us breathe a deep sigh of relief when we leave the high-stress work, school, or social world behind and walk into our familiar, comfortable homes to be happily greeted by our canine companions. But few people realize how potentially dangerous those breaths can be – those and every other breath you and your companion animals take in your home.
While we often consider our homes as sanctuaries – places of peace and safety – we may actually be living in danger zones filled with toxic airborne chemicals. Many of the building materials and housekeeping substances we use in our homes are air pollutants, capable of causing acute and long-term damage to our health, as well as the health of our dogs. We are only rarely aware of indoor air pollutants in the air we breathe – and many people are completely unaware of the potential damage that diminished air quality has on the health of every animal (including us) breathing that air. In fact, our companion animals are even more vulnerable than we are to the damaging effects of indoor air pollution.
It’s in the air
When chemicals evaporate into the air (the scientific term for this is “volatilize”) at room temperature, they become part of the air we breathe. When volatile organic compounds (VOCs) become airborne, they can influence the health of any animals (including humans) in the home. Elevated temperatures (during warm seasonal periods, or when indoor heating units are engaged) and humidity can release even greater quantities and numbers of the chemicals into the air, thereby increasing the number of total volatile organic compounds (TVOCs) in our “breathing space.”
According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), “indoor air pollution poses high risks to human health, especially sensitive populations, and has ranked among the top four environmental risks in relative risk reports.” Studies show that indoor air in homes is, on average, two to 20 times more polluted than the outdoor environment. Most people are shocked to learn that it’s not unheard-of for indoor chemical concentrations to rise to as much as 100 times the outdoor air concentration! But even at much lower levels we find TVOCs to cause the onset of chronic disease in both humans and animals.
Today, we are seeing new causes and mutations of disease as a result of the rapidly expanding development of the synthetic chemical industry. A study by the EPA found a staggering 900 chemicals commonly present in the home environment – from dry-cleaned fabrics, shampooed carpets, household cleaning products, foam in upholstery, carpet glues and pads, to perfumes and colognes. Between 150-200 chemicals are considered to have the potential to cause cancer and genetic mutations.
Effects of exposure
This “soup” of synthetic chemicals can affect multiple body systems and is cited as causing health-damaging effects to the musculoskeletal system, upper respiratory tract, nose and sinuses, immune system, digestive system, heart and blood vessels, endocrine system, reproductive system, central nervous system, internal organs, and skin. These diseases are directly linked to the presence of these chemicals in the indoor air environment.
Our reference data comes from animal laboratory studies and human exposure incidences in homes, office environments, and industrial settings. Some of the exposures are from acute, high level exposures of toxic substances (particularly in industrial settings and animal laboratories), while others are from chronic, low levels. Exposure to low levels of chemicals can cause allergic sensitization of the airways in animals, indicating the weakening of systems, and further reducing the animal’s ability to cope with the increasingly polluted indoor environment. It is these chronic, low levels of chemicals that we are addressing in the indoor home environment.
The common organic compounds found in our homes have many known health-damaging effects, even in low levels. While many have the potential to cause emotional disturbances (a depressed central nervous system resulting in low energy, depression, and decreased appetite) in our animals, it is the mutagenic (mutation-causing), teratogenic (fetal damage-causing), and carcinogenic (cancer-causing) properties that are the most impairing and life-threatening.
The most prevalent health effects from exposure to chemicals are skin diseases (dermatitis), respiratory impairment (irritation, sensitization), neurotoxic effects (adverse effects on the central nervous system), and cancers from long-term exposure, along with a number of diseases affecting specific organs such as the liver and kidney. The degree of health impairment is very much dependent on the level of exposure, its duration, and the individual exposed.
Of course, all individuals – human or animal – display varying levels of sensitivity to airborne pollutants. By the early 1990s, 15 percent of the human population had already developed heightened sensitivities to chemicals, according to the National Academy of Sciences (NAS). It is unknown what percentage of our canines experience chemical sensitivities, but we do know, that like humans, dogs with strong, healthy, immune systems will be less susceptible to the toxic overload than dogs with chronic disease (such as hot spots, ear infections, allergies, asthma, diabetes, thyroid, intestinal, urinary problems).
Some dogs (with strong immune systems) may live in homes with chart-topping levels of air pollutants, and not visibly display signs of poor health. On the other end of the scale, other dogs may immediately suffer acute distress – such as asthma, anxiety, depression, itchy, runny eyes, or severe skin irritation – from the introduction of any new or existing toxic chemicals in the home. But because most people have a generally low level of awareness of indoor air quality and its potential affect on their dogs, even if a dog does show signs of sensitivity, few people can make the connection between the signs and their true causes. And long-term exposure to even very low levels of toxins can cause insidious and deadly effects.
Pesticides pose special risks
Of the approximate 200 such chemicals currently known to cause cancer in humans (with many more known to cause these disease states in animals), pesticides are among the most serious. Pesticides are designed to kill, and do not discriminate. Pesticides are commonly found in pet products for dogs such as flea collars, flea powders, shampoos and dips, carpet treatments, house foggers, and even some pet foods. Chemicals found in these products include organophosphates, chlorinated hydrocarbons, synthetic pyrethroids, petroleum distillates, synergists, petroleum hydrocarbons and aromatics, including xylene and xylene range aromatic compounds.
Chlopyrifos (Dursban), an organophosphate insecticide, is one of the most prevalent compounds in pet products. Due to the health-damaging effects of Dursban, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) implemented a phase-out in pet products for 2001, and has added Diazinon to follow suit. Chlopyrifos causes peripheral neuropathy (nervous system disorders), involving the nerves of the limbs. The symptoms are unusual sensations (numbness, burning, tingling ) muscle weakness, or difficulty with coordinated movement. Chlopyrifos also causes genetic damage. In a study of over-the-counter pet pesticide products, nearly 50 percent are known or suspected to cause tumors or cancer, upward of 40 percent are known or suspected to cause reproductive damage, and more than 25 percent are known or suspected to cause genetic damage.
Samples of indoor dust have indicated pesticides in significant amounts in household dust tracked into the house and present in carpeted floors. Dr. Marion Moses cites a recent study showing that “dogs were more likely to have lymphoma if their guardians used chemical lawn treatments.”
Dogs more vulnerable
As we mentioned earlier, our companion animals are even more vulnerable than we are to the damaging effects of indoor air pollution. There are several reasons for this.
First, it is not unusual for dogs who live inside to spend almost 100 percent of their lives indoors. Even dogs who are walked for, say, a total of an hour every day, are still indoors for 23 hours a day!
Second, many common solvents have a higher molecular weight than air; thus they settle toward the floor. Any animal that spends most of its time near or on the floor is more susceptible to these chemical exposures.
Due to their body mass and their rate of respiration, dogs, like infants, are also more susceptible than we are to toxic chemicals in the air. For their body size, the amount of air they breathe is substantially more than a child or an adult, thereby exposing them to greater quantities of toxicants than we might breathe in the same air space. Also, the short life span of dogs leads to shorter latent periods during which biological effects from pollution can be detected.
If they are paying attention, humans are able to recognize and investigate the early symptoms of ill health when they themselves experience them – things like headaches, feelings of depression or anxiety, and nausea. Obviously, our dogs are not able to let us know they are experiencing such subtle, early signs of declining health. Not recognizing the disease-causing potential of pollutants in the indoor air can result in our animals’ symptoms, over time, developing into worsening disease states such as reproductive abnormalities, genetic mutations, cancer, and other chronic disease. While the onset of acute disease among animals has fallen over the past 40 to 50 years, Don Hamilton, DVM, says the rise in chronic disease is increasing annually.
Learn about chemicals
With few exceptions, nearly every commercial and consumer product we use in our homes and yards today has a health-damaging component to it. However, with an increased awareness of these risks, you can work toward effectively lessening the toxic burden in our indoor and outdoor environment for your family, human and canine. There are some basic methods that anyone can use to help identify how, why, and when to avoid the use of products that have the ability to contaminate their indoor air. The best method is education – educating yourself about the products you use by researching each of the listed ingredients on the packaging.
The product label is the place to begin your investigation; most products give a list of active ingredients. Unfortunately for the consumer, it is often the “inert” ingredients that are most health-damaging, and these are not disclosed to the consumer and are considered proprietary information by the manufacturer. This is especially troubling when you consider that some products contain upward of 99 percent inert ingredients! Of course, few of us are familiar with the health effects of the chemicals that are listed on the label. However, concerned consumers can gain access to this information.
Product manufacturers are required by law to complete a “Material Safety Data Sheet” (MSDS) on every chemical product they produce and make it available to consumers upon request. The MSDS includes a list of the active ingredients: the hazardous chemicals in the formulation, the degree of health effects, safety procedures when handling the product, and even cleanup instructions in case of a spill. (Again, unfortunately, even the MSDS does not contain information about the product’s inert ingredients; the only way to get this information is through your doctor or veterinarian.)
Do make it a point to look up every chemical listed on the label of products you consider using; chemical reference books such as the Merck Index list the health-damaging properties of every compound. This research will help you determine the safety of the product before using it in your home.
Don’t judge a product on the basis of the warnings on the label or even the MSDS alone. While these serious and valid warnings are based on toxicology tests, currently only two to three percent of the 100,000 chemicals in production today have been tested for toxicity. Chemicals not tested and classified as hazardous by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) can be used in products and not required by law to be listed on the manufacturers’ MSDSs.
Trust your nose
You can also learn to identify many potentially dangerous aromatic air pollutants by their odor and by your (or your animals’) physical health response to them. Our sense of smell is reptilian – hardwired to our brain This is our most primitive sense, upon which we can instinctively rely when we are exposed to a toxic chemical. It is important to register the odor upon initially entering your home. Within 20 seconds, our olfactory senses desensitize to any odors present. Remember how wonderful the aroma of sautéed garlic and onions smells upon coming into the kitchen from outdoors, and how quickly we become accustomed to the initial pleasure.
Unfortunately, a toxic chemical will register an entirely different physical response. The onset of a dull headache, rapid heart beat, difficulty breathing, tearing eyes, and/or sharp pain in the skull are possible responses to a chemical exposure. If you pay attention initially, you will be closer to identifying the source and removing your dog and yourself from the potential harm. While identification of the air pollutants is important, understanding what to avoid in the first place is even more important.
Change purchasing patterns
Prevention – that is, simply not bringing potentially dangerous products into your home – is the most effective strategy for preserving the safety of the air you and your dogs breathe. If building or remodeling your home, avoid using products that are known to be harmful. Sheet vinyl flooring, for example, contains polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and plasticizers, which are linked to cancer. Choose ceramic tiles instead.
When maintaining an existing home, try to use natural products. Consider how this simple act can prevent unneeded chemical exposures. Using a vinegar and water solution, for example, can prevent exposures to the ammonia, naphthalene, chlorine, and ethylene glycol commonly found in most brand-name glass or floor cleaners. A naturally maintained lawn sporting bio-diversity (read, containing a few weeds) keeps our dogs safe from health-damaging herbicides (for example, 2,4-D, atrazine, glyphosate, trichlopyr – weed killers that can damage kidneys and other organs). Hand washing delicate clothing versus using a dry cleaning service keeps perchloroethylene (Perc) from entering our homes (Perc has been linked to cancer in humans). Many air fresheners contain paradichlorobenzene, a carcinogen; a simple lemon or vinegar solution for cleaning will lend our homes a pleasing aroma that is far healthier.
Thinking “old-world” rather than “modern-technology” when selecting products will keep you attuned to the plethora of chemicals that infiltrate and cause health-damaging effects.
In general, look for alternatives to any petroleum-based products you want to buy. All petroleum-based products “off-gas,” that is, release health-damaging chemicals into the air. Instead of petroleum-based products, choose inert, self-maintaining, natural materials. There are low- and non-toxic alternative materials for every home and yard activity. When painting, look for a water-based paint with fewer than 50 VOCs (check out the manufacturer’s specification sheet for this information). Use wool area rugs over a hard flooring surface instead of a tufted carpet (backing adhesive has styrene butadiene which is linked to sick building syndrome). And in your yard, remove rotting timbers from the foundation of the house to avoid the introduction of termites and the use of toxic chemical spraying.
Unbeknown to us, our own personal hygiene can introduce harmful chemicals into our homes. Synthesized perfumes contain neurotoxic chemicals. The National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) found 884 neurotoxic chemical compounds used in the cosmetic and perfume industries. When the EPA tested random samples of perfumes and automobile products off the shelves, without exception, each one contained a common solvent: toluene. Along with formaldehyde, this chemical is one of the most prevalent health-damaging solvents to which our animals and we are exposed. It is classified as a carcinogen and neurotoxic chemical. Our use of incense, wood-burning stoves, and cigarette smoking can exacerbate upper respiratory problems in our dogs. Many dishwashing and laundry detergents as well as fabric softeners release scents that contain harmful chemicals. Shop carefully and wisely and avoid these exposures. There are many alternatives available today that can give us some relief from the harmful effects.
Finally, consider the impact of everything you use and do in your indoor and outdoor environment – it all adds up!
For example, the use of formaldehyde is ubiquitous in today’s homes; it is used to preserve paints and stains, is a carrier in fabric dyes, a component in composite woods such as plywood and particle board – and is a known human carcinogen. The prevalence of its use in common household products is reason alone to discontinue buying products that contain it.
As you can see, awareness and conscious action are major keys to preserving our health, as well as the health of our beloved canine companions.
Kathleen Dudley lives in New Mexico, where she is a professional indoor air quality consultant, writer, and photographer. She teaches and lectures in college and conference circles on material toxicity and indoor air quality, and has had an interior design practice for 22 years. Ms. Dudley’s photography appears in Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs by Don Hamilton, DVM.
Every day, dog owners ask me questions in person, on the phone, and online, how to stop their dogs or puppies from doing something. The variations are virtually limitless:
“How do I stop him from going to the bathroom on the carpet?”
“How do I keep her from chewing up my shoes? (or books or furniture)?”
“How do I make him stop stealing food from the counter?”
I normally answer these questions with an explanation of how to resolve the presented behavior problem, but every once in a while I am sorely tempted just to answer the question with a succinct, “Don’t let him do it!”
As absurdly simple as this seems, behavior management is, in fact, the appropriate answer in probably better than 75 percent of the questions I am asked by dog owners. Management is the key to resolving the vast majority of behavior problems people face with their dogs, and even more important, it is key to preventing those behaviors from ever occurring in the first place!
In many cases, management is necessary while the dog learns a new, more appropriate behavior. In others, management simply replaces unrealistic training expectations. I offer my clients a three-step formula for reprogramming or preventing unwanted behaviors:
1. Rephrase. That is, identify what you want the dog to do instead of what you want him not to do. In all the behaviors described above, the owner is asking how to get the dog to stop doing something rather than how to get to dog to do something.
2. Manage. Figure out how to prevent the dog from being rewarded for the unwanted behavior. This is actually the easiest part! Behaviors that are rewarded are reinforced – in other words, the dog is more likely to do them again. Chasing a cat is very rewarding to a dog – he gets a big adrenaline rush, and the cat runs away – what fun! Every chance your dog gets to chase a cat increases the likelihood that he will chase (and maybe eventually catch) the next cat he sees. If you don’t want him to be rewarded by chasing cats, don’t let him do it.
3. Train. Figure out how to consistently reward the dog for the desired behavior identified in Step 1. This is often the hardest part. Each of the training programs for the behavior challenges listed above could be a full-length article of its own (and frequently, they have been; we’ll refer you to relevant articles as we proceed).
Let’s take a look at a number of problem behaviors and see how they can be addressed by our three-step formula, with particular focus on the management aspect:
• How do I make him stop stealing food from the counter or table?
Rephrase: “How do I get him to only eat things that are in his bowl or on the floor?” (By the way, dogs are opportunistic eaters by their very nature. They are morally incapable of “stealing” food. A dog in the wild who eats food when and where he finds it is smart – and much more likely to survive than one who passes food by just because it happens to be above eye level.)
Manage: Prevent him from being rewarded for counter surfing. Clearly, the food that he finds on counters tastes good and is very rewarding.
Management tools: A: Doors – If food must be left out, shut the dog in another room so he can’t have access to it. B: Cupboards and the refrigerator – Put food away. Never leave it out as an invitation to counter surf. C: Crates, pens, baby gates, leashes, and tethers – Use other reasonable means of restraint to prevent his inappropriate access to food.
Train: Teach him a positive “Off!” or “Leave It!“ cue and consistently reward him for ignoring food on the counter and for keeping all four feet on the floor around food-laden counters and tables.
• How do I stop him from peeing on the carpet?
Rephrase the question to: “How do I teach him to go to the bathroom outside?”
Manage: Prevent him from being rewarded for peeing on the carpet. A full bladder causes discomfort. Urinating relieves that discomfort. Urinating on the carpet is more rewarding for an unhousetrained dog than suffering the discomfort of “holding it” until he can go outside.
Management tools: A: Take the dog outside so frequently that his bladder is never full to the point of discomfort (every hour on the hour, at least at first). B: Keep the dog under close supervision so you can notice when he is acting restless (a sign that he has to eliminate) and take him outside quickly, before he has a chance to pee on the carpet. C: Keep the dog crated (see “Crate Training Made Easy,” WDJ August 2000), penned, or tethered (tether only if you are home – see “Tethered to Success,” WDJ April 2001) if you can’t supervise him closely to prevent him from being rewarded by peeing on the carpet when you’re not paying attention. Keeping his crate – his den, as it were – unsoiled is more rewarding to most dogs than relieving even a moderately full bladder.
Train: Implement a full housetraining program that includes going outside with him regularly and rewarding him with praise and a treat immediately after he goes to the bathroom in the appropriate toilet spot.
• How do I keep her from chewing up my shoes?
Rephrase: “How do I get her to chew on her own things and only her own things?”
Manage: Prevent her from being rewarded for chewing on inappropriate objects. (See “Challenged By a Chewer?”, WDJ March 1998.) Things like shoes, baby toys, and furniture have a nice firm-but-giving texture that feels good (is rewarding) to a dog’s teeth and gums, especially to a puppy or young dog who is teething.
Management tools: A: Pick up non-chew objects when the dog is in the room. B: Remove her from the room when non-chew objects must be left within dog-reach (put her in a crate or pen if necessary). C: Supervise the dog closely and distract her attention from inappropriate objects. D: Tether her in the room with you to prevent her access to non-chew objects. E: Exercise her a lot; tired dogs tend to be well-behaved dogs.
Train: Provide her with irresistible chew-objects and interactive toys such as stuffed Kongs (see “King Kongs,” WDJ October 2000), Buster Cubes, Roll-A-Treat Balls (See “Back to School,” WDJ September 1998), and other safe items. If she is given the opportunity to chew only acceptable items she will eventually develop a strong preference for chewing on these things and your personal possessions will be safe.
• How do I stop him from chasing deer (or cats or bicycles or joggers)?
Rephrase: “How do I teach him to ignore fast-moving objects?” or “How do I teach him to respond when I ask him to stop?”
Manage: Don’t let him have the opportunity to be rewarded for chasing, and don‘t have unrealistic training expectations, that is, don’t expect to be able to train a dog who has a strong prey/chase instinct to “not chase” in the absence of direct supervision. This includes many of the herding breeds, terriers, hounds, and sporting breeds.
Management tools: A: Fences – Solid physical fences of sufficient height are great tools for thwarting chasing behaviors. B: Doors – Keeping him safely confined indoors except when directly supervised can go a long way toward preventing rewards for chasing. C: Leashes and long lines (see “Long Distance Information,” WDJ February 2001) are ideal for preventing chase rewards. (Note: WDJ does not ever recommend tying/chaining a dog as a routine method of outdoor confinement. See “Fit to Be Tied,” WDJ June 1999.) D: Exercise – Tired dogs tend to be well-behaved dogs.
Train: Teach your dog a very reliable recall. Train him to drop to a “Down” at a distance. Teach him a solid “Wait” cue that will pause him in mid-stride, even when he is in chase mode (see “Wait a Bit, Stay a While,” WDJ May 2001).
• How do I stop him from roaming the neighborhood?
Rephrase: “How do I keep him safe at home?”
Manage: Use appropriate physical means to keep him safely confined at home and make sure he never experiences and reaps the rewards of the “joy” of running loose in the neighborhood. I occasionally have potential clients call and ask me how to boundary-train their dogs to stay on their property without a fence.
This is an unrealistic training expectation, and I never accept such a training assignment; I don’t believe it can be done reliably and humanely. For most, if not all dogs, there are stimuli that are strong enough to induce them to break through the shock of an electric fence collar (see “Visible Problems,” WDJ May 1999), to say nothing of a simple boundary-training program.
Management tools: A: Fences – Solid physical fences of sufficient height are great tools for thwarting roaming. B: Doors – Keeping him safely confined indoors except when directly supervised can go a long way towards preventing rewards for roaming. C: Leashes and long lines – Physical restraint tools are ideal for preventing roaming rewards. (Note: WDJ does not ever recommend tying/chaining a dog as a routine method of outdoor confinement.) D: Neutering – Lowering your dog’s testosterone level can be a very effective way of eliminating one very strong reward for roaming (see “A Stitch in Time,” WDJ June 2000). E: Exercise – Tired dogs tend to be well-behaved dogs.
Train: Teach your dog a very reliable recall. Train him to drop to a “Down” at a distance. Teach him a solid “Wait” cue that will pause him in mid-stride, even when he is in chase mode. And then never leave him outdoors alone, unfenced and unsupervised.
• How do I stop her from barking when she’s outside?
Rephrase: “How do I keep her quiet when she’s outside?”
Manage: Dogs usually become nuisance barkers because they are bored, lonely, overstimulated, or convinced that their job responsibilities include 24-hour sentry duty.
Management tools: A: House confinement – Most dogs who are nuisance barkers spend entirely too much time outdoors, which contributes to boredom, loneliness, overstimulation, and the perception that their job duties include constant sentry duty. B: Crates and pens indoors, if necessary, can help manage the dog’s behavior while indoors. C: Exercise – Tired dogs tend to be well-behaved dogs.
Train: Teach her a positive interrupt – a gentle “Thank you, quiet!” (followed by a reward) – to acknowledge her for notifying you of something you should be aware of, and to let her know that you have everything under control so she can stop barking. Use this judiciously – do not expect it to work for a bored, lonely, overstimulated dog who is kept outside in the backyard all day and/or all night.
• How do I stop him from jumping up to look out the windows?
Rephrase: “How do I teach him to be calm about outside stimuli at the windows?”
Manage: The easiest way to manage this behavior is either to block the dog’s view from the outside stimuli, or to provide him with the means to see out the window without having to jump up on the windowsill.
Management tools: A: Shades or drapes to block the dog’s view of the outside. B: Closed doors that keep him out of the room in question. C: Move the sofa up against the windows so he can look out to his heart’s content without having to jump up on the woodwork. (Of course, this isn’t an option if you are trying to keep him off the furniture, unless you put his own sofa next to the window . . .)
Train: Teach him a positive interrupt and consistently reward him for turning his attention to you when there is something happening outside his window.
• How do I keep him off the furniture?
Rephrase: “How do I teach him to sleep on his own bed?”
Manage: Control the environment to prevent him from being rewarded for getting on the furniture. The sofa is comfortable, so lying on it is its own reward.
Management tools: A: Place boxes or upside-down chairs on the furniture to prevent his access. B: Lift up sofa and chair cushions so there’s no flat surface for him to lie on. C: Close doors to prevent his access to rooms with forbidden furniture in your absence. D: Use crates and pens to prevent his access to forbidden furniture in your absence. E: Provide him with his own very comfortable furniture to lie on.
Train: Consistently reward him for lying on his own very comfortable furniture.
• How do I stop her from getting in the garbage?
Rephrase: “How do I convince her to keep her nose in appropriate places?”
Manage: This is one of those behaviors where management is critically important. You would be wise to never put extremely tempting garbage such as meat scraps, pork chop bones, or turkey carcasses in any garbage can that is easily accessible to your dog, no matter how well-mannered she is.
Management tools: A: Garbage cans with tightly closing lids that seal tempting odors in and curious noses out. B: Cupboards or cabinets (complete with baby-proof latches) that close securely and protect garbage cans from marauding moochers. C: Closed doors to prevent the dog’s access to rooms with raidable garbage cans. D: Exercise – Tired dogs tend to be well-behaved dogs.
Train: You can teach your dog a positive “Off!” or “Leave It!” with garbage cans, and for a dog who is very motivated by garbage, you will still want to use management to prevent him from being rewarded for garbage play in your absence.
Training yourself to manage
We could keep going – this list truly is endless – but you should be getting the idea by now. Any time you’re faced with a behavior challenge, just apply these three simple steps – rephrase, manage, and train – to design your action plan for managing and/or modifying the inappropriate behavior.
My all time favorite was the Peaceable Paws client in Carmel, California, who asked me to teach his Australian Shepherd-mix to stop drinking out of the toilet.
“It would be far easier,” I said, “to teach you (the supposedly more intelligent species) to close the toilet lid or shut the bathroom door, than it would be to train him not to take advantage of a constantly fresh water source. In fact, he’s probably trying to figure out how to train you to stop peeing in his water bowl!” This is one of those cases where it makes much more sense to implement a simple management technique than to expend the energy required to train the desired behavior.
He got the message. When I visited the house for our next appointment, the bathroom door was securely closed.
What do you think of when you think of canned dog food? Many people unconsciously wrinkle their noses as they ponder this question, immediately associating the image with the distinctive aroma of canned meat. In addition, people frequently describe the contents of dog food cans as glop, an indistinguishable mash of uncertain meats and who-knows-what.
In general, people tend to have a better image of dry dog foods. Kibble is less aromatic and more visually appealing to us.
Despite our preference for neat and discrete pieces of kibble, the canned versions of most dog foods are frequently made with higher-quality ingredients, including fresh, whole meats, grains, and vegetables. Canned foods generally contain a higher percentage of meat than their dry counterparts; there is a limit to the amount of moist ingredients that dry food extruders can handle. (Let’s try to remember that dogs don’t eat grains in the wild; meat and vegetables are what they have been eating throughout their evolution.)
Also, canned foods generally contain way fewer chemical additives than dry foods. Artificial colors and flavors are much less common in canned foods than they are in their dried food equivalents. Because of the moist, fragrant nature of the meat-based contents, artificial flavoring and other palatants are rarely needed to attract dogs to otherwise unappealing food.
In addition, preservatives which are ubiquitous in dry foods are unnecessary and rarely seen in canned foods, due to the sealed, oxygen-free environment that a can offers. (Because they lack preservatives, canned foods must be kept refrigerated after opening, just like any other fresh food.)
WDJ’s selection criteria
We enjoy the task of reviewing canned foods annually, in no small part because of the changes we have witnessed in the industry in the past few years.
Increasingly, consumers are scrutinizing food labels (we hope we’ve had something to do with this!) and rejecting products with inferior ingredients. Sensitive to this trend, makers are slowly replacing artificial preservatives with natural ones, and eliminating artificial colors and flavors. They are also adding beneficial supplements such as vitamin C and Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids to their formulas. All to the good.
We required the following for a product to make it into the running for our Top Canned Dog Foods:
We eliminated all foods containing artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives.
We rejected any food containing meat by-products or poultry by-products.
We rejected any food containing fat or protein not identified by species. Animal fat is a euphemism for a low-quality, low-priced mix of fats of uncertain origin. Meat by-products can be from any mammal, or mix of mammals. These ingredients come to the food makers at bargain-bucket prices, and accordingly, may not have been handled as carefully as more valuable commodities.
We looked for foods with whole meat, fish, or poultry as the first ingredient on the food labels (by law, ingredients are listed on the label by the total weight they contribute to the product). Water is necessary for the manufacturing process used to make canned foods, but in lower-quality products, water is usually the first ingredient. We prefer to see meat first. We also like it when a nutritious meat, poultry, or fish broth is used in place of water.
We looked for the use of whole grains and vegetables, rather than a series of reconstituted parts, i.e. rice, rather than rice flour, rice bran, brewers rice, etc.
We awarded theoretical bonus points for foods that offer the date of manufacture (in addition to the usual best if used by date), nutrition information beyond the minimum required, and any organic ingredients. Sadly, these innovations are rare.
Obscure foods
Our Top Canned Food selections are listed alphabetically on the next pages. Before you look, allow us to counter your first two protests! Every time we publish our food reviews, a certain number of neophyte readers contact us with one of the following two complaints. They’ll say either, “We’ve never heard of the foods you selected!” or “But which one of your selections is the best?”
We are sympathetic but firm.
To answer the first concern: Understand that, just as with human foods, the dog foods that are advertised, produced, and sold in the largest quantities in this country are just not the healthiest foods you can find; you know what we Mcmean? Of course you are more familiar with Alpo and Mighty Dog or even Iams, Science Diet, and Eukanuba than with our selections. Those are the foods you see on most grocery store shelves and in veterinary office waiting rooms. Health foods are harder to find.
And, just as with human health foods, there are far more low-quality commercial dog foods available to consumers than there are good- or high-quality foods. Were just happy that there are high-quality foods being made for dogs; it wasn’t always so.
The catch is, good foods are expensive; high-quality ingredients cost the manufacturer more, and the price of the finished product will reflect this. Cheap foods may gladden the heart of consumers, but they have to realize that the contents of inexpensive cans will contain inferior ingredients.
We find it interesting that some companies make different lines of food, usually with radical differences in quality and price between them. We understand this practice from a business standpoint; the companies are simply offering products at every conceivable market position: cheap foods for people who don’t and won’t ever buy expensive foods, medium-priced and middling-quality foods for the market center, and expensive premium foods for those who are willing and able to afford them.
Its hard for us to understand how these companies stand behind each product line as though they were equally proud of and confident about them all. But thats beside the point, which is this: Dont assume that all foods from a given company are created equal. Pay attention to the names we’ve used for our featured foods, and don’t stray!
Not rank-ordered
To answer the second concern that we don’t rank-order our selections, but present them alphabetically we say this: We hope you will find our selections useful when choosing foods for your dogs. But be aware that there are no perfect foods; this is why we cannot will not put our selections in order of preference.
All of our selections are high quality foods. We suggest using price, local availability, and, most importantly of all, your own dog’s response to the food as your final guide. If his health improves after changing foods, youre on the right track. If his health declines, you need to change foods again, no matter how good we’ve proclaimed the food to be. All dogs are individuals, and what makes your Irish Setter shine may give your Spitz literal and figurative fits.
Final words
Along with our selections, we have listed only the first 10 ingredients of the foods; most contain quite a long list of vitamin and mineral supplements, and we don’t want to bore you with those. The most significant contents are within the first 10. When possible, we included information about the food’s caloric content, as reported by the food makers. Some of this information was readily available (although only one maker listed this on its product label); in other cases, the makers did not report this number to us.
For comparisons sake, we also listed the ingredients of five very popular canned foods that we consider to be low quality. Compare the ingredients of foods on both lists; the differences between them should be quite obvious.
Standing transfixed in my veterinarian’s exam room, I stared at my dog’s x-rays, trying to focus on what the vet was saying. My mind seemed to have gone into some kind of vapor lock after hearing the words “severe hip dysplasia, both sides.”
I don’t know what I had expected. I was there because I knew something was wrong, but I hadn’t thought the news would be this bad. My 6½-year-old Spaniel mix, Sandy Mae, normally a confident and experienced agility competitor, had been refusing 22-inch jumps, and sometimes even 16-inch jumps. She also seemed tired, walking slower than her normal sprightly pace on our daily walks. At first I thought it might be because she was about 5 pounds over her optimal weight of 28 pounds. But it was the telltale bunny-hopping of a dog with hip problems that sent me to the veterinarian’s office.
Surprising both myself and my vet, tears streamed down my face when I heard the diagnosis. I knew what it meant because my 14-year-old mixed breed, Chelsea, had suffered from hip dysplasia since age nine and, despite an aggressive regimen of neutraceuticals (e.g., glucosamine, chondroitin, MSM), had great difficulty getting up and down. Sandy, who wasn’t even seven, had already been on neutraceuticals for several months. I couldn’t bear the thought of her going through so many years of similar discomfort.
After getting the opinions of three orthopedic specialists – and engaging in countless discussions with other owners of dysplastic dogs – I made a very difficult decision. I was going to have Sandy undergo a surgery called bilateral femoral head osteotomy (FHO). I knew that I faced challenging post-operative care and rehabilitation, but I assumed that I would do the best I could when the time came.
What I didn’t realize at the time was how much I had already done – before she was even diagnosed.
Preparing for Hip Dysplasia Before it Happens
Sandy came into my life at about 10 months of age. She was a neglected dog whose owners kept talking about getting rid of her. She was just too much for them to handle; she often found a way to get out of the backyard and then amused herself by chasing cars and jumping on the neighbors. Through a series of events coordinated by a friend who lived next door to the little rascal, I agreed to foster her. Without asking for my approval, Sandy and my then two-year-old dog, Buster, fell in love, becoming inseparable in just a few days. Voila! Another dog in the family.
Sandy’s personality from the time I got her was feisty, happy, and energetic. Still, taking no chances, I focused on intense socialization since she had had very little exposure to the world outside her backyard. I took her on errands and walked her through shopping malls. I dropped her off at friends’ homes so that she would be accustomed to being away from me. I took her to the dog park where one of her favorite playmates was an Akita who would pin her down in mock battle.
In 1996, I was introduced to clicker training at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers’ annual conference in Phoenix, Arizona. I watched Karen Pryor and Gary Wilkes demonstrate how to “shape” behaviors – anything from sit and down to “targeting” with a target stick. I bought a target stick and clicker at the conference and brought them home to try with my own dogs. Over the years I used clicker training to teach Sandy a variety of behaviors: sit, down, stay, come, spin, wave, dance, back up, bow, 101 Things to do With Anything in the Environment, and on and on. She became my star demonstration dog in my classes, as well as at community events.
I also introduced Sandy to agility, which I had been doing with Buster for building his confidence. When I was practicing with Buster, Sandy would sit in her pen, bright and alert, watching us run around the course. On her first try at the agility obstacles, she took to the sport like a fish to water. In December1999, Sandy achieved her Master Agility Dog Title from USDAA, our chosen agility venue.
Hip Dysplasia Surgery for Dogs
Perhaps if Sandy had led a less-active life, I would not have considered something as invasive as bilateral FHO. This surgical procedure involves the removal of the femoral head (the ball). To help the healing process, the dog must walk short distances soon after surgery to strengthen the muscles, ligaments, and tendons in that area, all of which work to form a false joint to take the place of the old ball and socket.
If Sandy were a couch potato, I might not have chosen surgery and the difficult rehabilitation that would follow. Instead, I might have chosen to continue with the neutraceuticals, restrict jumping on and off furniture, and give her pain medication when necessary. But Sandy had always been an active dog, and restricting her activities would have been too hard on both of us.
Also, Sandy’s small size (28-33 pounds) made her a good candidate for FHO; the procedure is less successful for larger dogs. The price, too, was more affordable for me: The price I was quoted was $2,200 total (and actually, I paid less, thanks to a very generous professional discount from the veterinarian) as opposed to $4,000-$5,000 per hip for total hip replacement.
Conversations with an agility friend and competitor, Elina Heine, of Oxnard, California, helped me clinch the treatment decision. Heine’s Border Collie/Australian Shepherd mix, Turbo, had recently undergone bilateral FHO surgery and seemed to be recovering with great success. I especially respected Heine’s opinion because she is a registered physical therapist. In fact, she had designed a rehabilitation plan for Turbo that she generously offered to share with me.
Planning for the Symptoms of Hip Dysplasia
When Sandy began showing symptoms in the fall of 2000, I pulled her from agility trials and greatly reduced her agility play. After I decided on FHO, I embarked on a plan to prepare her for surgery:
• I put her on buffered aspirin so that she could tolerate more activity.
• I reintroduced agility as a regular form of exercise in order to maintain muscle mass and strength. I let her jump only 12-inch jumps, go through tunnels, and do an occasional dogwalk and weave poles, letting her “tell” me when she was tired by slowing down or going around (instead of over) obstacles.
• I maintained her daily off-leash exercise outings, which amounted to a one- or two-mile outing at whatever pace she chose.
• I switched her to a reducing diet in order to get her weight down, assuming that the less extra weight she was carrying after surgery, the better. (She dropped four pounds before surgery!)
• Using clicker-training methods, I trained her to walk wearing a sling under her belly, with me holding up her rear end. This exercise included walking up and down three stairs on the back porch, using her front legs only.
• I simulated range-of-motion exercises that I planned on doing during rehabilitation, hoping that she would become accustomed to these activities so that they wouldn’t be completely foreign to her later.
Bilateral Femoral Head Osteotomy Surgery and Week One of Recovery
Sandy’s surgery was scheduled for January 17, 2001. I had been dreading it for weeks and was relieved to finally have it over and to hear from the surgeon that all had gone well. Sandy came home after only two days in the hospital.
Those first days after surgery were extremely difficult. Even though the veterinarian had given me medication to give Sandy for pain relief, Sandy experienced a lot of pain when I moved her to get up to go outside. I would carry her outside and then put the sling under her and support her weight while she figured out how to urinate and defecate without really squatting. However, she would take two or three steps without the sling, and by the fifth day after coming home was taking several wobbly steps to move from one resting place to another.
That first week was tough, though. She didn’t want to get up to go outside because it hurt when I reached under her to pick her up. I knew she could get up and toddle around on her own because she would change positions in bed, and she was taking more steps once she was up. That’s when I first decided that I needed to draw on the strength of our relationship to encourage her to get up on her own.
On the fourth morning after surgery, I had some treats ready. I stepped away from her bed and said in a perky voice, “Sandy, come!” She looked at me as if I had lost my mind. I simply repeated myself and backed toward the door. She shoved her front feet under her chest and sat up. Click! Treat! The look in her eyes changed when she heard that click. Oh, it’s the clicker game! I can do that!
I then said, “C’mon. We’re goin’.” She wobbled to her feet. Click! Treat! She stepped out of the bed. Click! Treat! And we made our way down the hallway into the living room, where I picked her up and carried her the rest of the way. From that point forward, she got up in the morning by herself and walked most of the way outside. When she was tired, she would stop and look up at me, and I would carry her.
On the same day that she got up on her own, I took her to our usual exercise field and put her on a blanket where she could watch the other dogs run around. She actually got up and walked about 100 feet. I was by her side, calmly encouraging her every step of the way.
Hip Dysplasia Recovery Weeks Two and Three
The second and third weeks after surgery were a time of longer and longer walks. Sandy’s strength and endurance were both improving. I launched a rehab program based on my discussion with Elina that included:
• walking (gradual progression of distance and speed) • passive range-of-motion exercises for her hips • soft tissue massage for hips, back, and front end • aquatherapy
How Emotional Bonds Help Heal
It was during the more intensive period of rehab work that I discovered how my relationship with Sandy impacted her recovery. I believe that there were five important elements that contributed to an extremely fast recovery:
1) The trust that Sandy had in me from the handling exercises I had done with her since she was a puppy (e.g., fake examinations, restraint exercises, as well as interventions on her behalf in removing foxtails and burs helped her trust me when she experienced pain or when I was lowering her into a Jacuzzi).
2) Her high level of socialization that meant she had a world filled with doggy and human friends who not only motivated her to rejoin them, but also created a confident, psychologically healthy dog.
3) An active lifestyle, including living with other active dogs, helped to set the stage for returning to that lifestyle.
4) Clicker training, which focuses so much on teaching a dog to learn how to learn and building his or her confidence to offer new behaviors, made it easy for Sandy to learn new things such as walking and going up stairs with a sling under her belly, swimming in a jacuzzi, etc.
5) Agility training meant that Sandy was in good physical condition, and the teamwork we enjoyed helped us to retrain her body as quickly as possible to the functioning level she remembered from her past.
Milestones of Improvement After Hip Dysplasia Surgery
These elements were integrated into a rehab program that resulted in an amazing recovery, as evidenced by these milestones:
Day #7: Trotted (albeit wobbly) to greet a good friend. The power of a dog’s friendships is incredible.
Day #8: Walked up and down the back-porch steps by herself. At first, I clicked and treated her for these behaviors, encouraging her to try to figure out how to place her feet carefully and not fall over.
Day #15: Rolled on her back in the grass at a park, flipping hips back and forth sideways. The delight of new grass in a new location unleashes the sillies.
Day #18: Responded to clicker training to back up on cue, relearning to move and place each foot – a trick she did nimbly before surgery. Waving on cue, another trick she knew previous to surgery, helped her use her back muscles to help support herself while she lifted a front foot into a wave. “Spin,” another old trick, helped her use her legs independently, as well as stretch the muscles along her ribs and thighs.
Day #20: Engaged in power “aquawalks” in a deep tub, pushing with her rear legs against the water. This was accomplished by doing recall relays between two people at opposite ends of the tub, each with a bag of chicken!
Day #21: Played tug-of-war with one of my other dogs, and won! She had learned how to use her front end for stability and strength, and her rear end for balance only.
Day #40: Jumped up on the couch for cuddling. The importance of touch was powerful motivation for Sandy.
Day #45: Slowly navigated a set of four weave poles. Agility is something she loves. When I said, “Weave!” she started right in, but almost fell over because her rear end had become weak. She had to relearn how the legs and muscles needed to act to accomplish an old trick.
Day #50: Performed (slowly) a full set of 12 weave poles; offered a “stretch” (bow) during a clicker training session with other dogs. Peer pressure!
Day #65: Jumped into the back of a friend’s hatchback, something she’d been contemplating for days because of the snacks this friend always has in his car.
The Power of Strong Relationships
Would Sandy have recovered without agility and her tricks? Yes, I’m sure she would have – eventually. However, her recovery rate impressed many people who have had experience with FHO recoveries. Sandy entered her first agility trial in June 2001, just six months after surgery.
Recovery from an invasive procedure such as FHO is challenging. My experience with Sandy has convinced me more than ever that the best antidotes to the health challenges many of our dogs will confront throughout their lives include a strong relationship built on trust, positive reinforcement training, and structured activities such as agility. You can bet I’ll be embarking on a similar relationship-building path with my new pup, Kiwi. Sandy Mae is already showing him the ropes, tail high as she clears those jumps and runs circles around him.
Another Hip Dysplasia Operation Success Story
While I definitely customized Sandy’s rehabilitation plan to suit her personality, I was lucky to be able to draw heavily upon the experiences of my friend Elina Heine, of Oxnard, California, whose Border Collie/Australian Shepherd mix, Turbo, had weathered the same surgery with great success. I called Heine several times during Sandy’s recuperation, and asked how Turbo was doing. Heine, a registered physical therapist, used her professional knowledge to design an optimum therapeutic program for her dog, and also drew on the knowledge of her holistic veterinarian and complementary therapies. In addition, both of us credit our deep relationship with our dogs – fostered through positive training and agility work – as being a critical component of our dogs’ successful recoveries.
Unlike Sandy, who was 6½ years old when diagnosed with hip dysplasia, Turbo was only 18 months old when he was diagnosed with the same condition. Turbo loved competing in beginning agility, but Heine soon found that he would be slightly lame after an agility show. “Then he started showing progressive stiffness in the mornings and after walks, and he developed a ‘hitch’ in his gait.”
Turbo’s initial examination and diagnosis was conducted by Heine’s holistic veterinarian. He was amazed at the speed at which Turbo’s symptoms came on and the severity of the dysplasia, and was not sure that the dog would ever be a competitive dog again. Heine immediately started Turbo on a physical therapy regimen and supplements (including glucosamine and chondroitin) that could benefit his joints. The veterinarian also referred Heine to a veterinary orthopedic surgeon, who gave her three options: 1) restrict Turbo’s activity and keep him on neutraceuticals and pain medication; 2) total hip replacement; or 3) bilateral femoral head osteotomy (FHO).
“I sat on the diagnosis for about six weeks and in that time, followed the guidelines of the orthopedist and my holistic vet,” says Heine. “I significantly limited Turbo’s exercise, but this did not slow the progression of the disease. Plus, this regimen began driving him crazy. He developed many bad behaviors, such as peeing on the couch, getting nippy with the other dogs, and he had a much shorter attention span.
“The fact that his stiffness and pain symptoms were getting worse, and we had significantly limited his walking (no running, no agility, limited ball-fetching with slow, low tosses), led me to the decision to do the surgery.”
Though at 47 pounds Turbo is on the upper end of the weight range for which many orthopedists recommend FHO, Heine preferred the option of FHO because of the lower cost (compared to total hip replacement) and the type of rehabilitation that FHO surgery calls for. “Rehab for a total hip replacement includes weeks of kenneling and a gradual increase in activity – time spent waiting for the hip joint capsule to heal and strenthen,” describes Heine. “The FHO rehab is much more active. The dog has to walk to start the development of the callus on the femoral neck (the remaining bone) and to make sure the ligaments and muscles heal, allowing appropriate motion at the hips.
“I knew my dog, and I knew he had been going through hell for the six weeks of ‘taking it easy.’ Kenneling would have added even more to his behavior problems. It was difficult to decide the best route to take, but looking back, it was the best one for us, both then and now,” says Heine.
Postsurgical Work
Unlike me, Heine did not utilize swimming as part of Turbo’s rehabilitation. “Swimming is a great therapy, but I did not include it in my rehab plan because Turbo has an extreme dislike for water,” says Heine. “More importantly, I felt the weightbearing activities were more important for the development of the callus and the new hip joint. The walking progression was most beneficial for Turbo. Also, the range-of-motion work with his hips assured that the joint would heal with functional motion and was very important for the first three months – until he was no longer showing stiffness in the mornings and evenings.”
Heine’s holistic veterinarian was kept apprised of Turbo’s progression, and Heine followed his recommendations regarding supplements. “We used amino acid supplements (creatine and L-carnatine) to assist in muscle mass development, antioxidants for assistance in Turbo’s general holistic regimen, and some homeopathic remedies early on to assist in healing. We have also used chiropractic treatment a couple of times.”
It All Comes Back to Relationships
Like me, Heine found that the deep and trusting relationship that she and her dog had established through mutually enjoyable pursuits (agility) played a big part in his successful recovery. “Agility was a great help for several reasons,” she says. “First was the conditioning and strength the dog had prior to the surgery. His rear legs had atrophied a lot in the two months prior to surgery, but his front end and back were very strong.
“Second, the trust and teamwork we had developed with the sport allowed both of us to have a rehab plan that he knew and understood. For example, I set up a row of jumps in the backyard – without jump poles – for him to walk through. It was something he recognized and could do. The same could be used with a ‘go out’ or any other skill that you have trained with the dog. The pain and discomfort is there, but the dog is doing an activity that he knows and loves. Turbo was ecstatic to hobble through the chute of three jumps without bars the first time – and what a treat he got at the end!
“Third, returning to agility, which my dog loves even more than I do, helped motivate him to develop the strength and endurance he had prior to surgery,” says Heine.
Terry Long is a professional dog trainer in Long Beach, California, where she provides manners, tricks, and agility training, as well as behavior modification consultation. She is the managing editor of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers’ APDT Newsletter.
We can never say it often enough or loudly enough – proper identification can save your dog’s life. A dog license is required by law to be worn on your dog’s collar in most places in this country. Owner information from a license can usually be tracked through the local Animal Services agency or Health Department so the lost dog can be returned to his owner if he is picked up by an Animal Services Officer or turned over to an animal shelter by a helpful humanitarian. Obtaining your license in a timely manner can also save you money, since failure to do so can result in citations and fines.
Microchips and tattoos are two methods of providing your dog with permanent “backup” identification, and both have their benefits and drawbacks (see “Your Lost Dog’s Ticket Home,” WDJ November 1998).
However, a physical, visible ID tag that offers your current contact information is your lost dog’s first line of defense, and the easiest way for that helpful humanitarian to return him to you directly, quickly, and safely. While a trip to the local shelter to retrieve your safe and healthy dog is better than some of the tragic alternatives, avoiding that shelter visit by having his finder return him directly to you saves you anxiety and money, and saves your dog from possible exposure to those nasty viruses and bacteria that sometimes hang out in shelter kennels. For all these reasons, your dog should be wearing a current identification tag in addition to his license.
Types of tags
Once upon a time, “ID tag” inevitably meant an engraved metal tag that dangled from your dog’s collar from a metal “S” hook, jingling against his license every time he moved – a noise that some people found very irritating.
Today, your ID options range from simple to high-tech, and from dirt-cheap to high-dollar. We have yet to find the perfect dog identification system, however. Tags can fall off, or they can become worn and hard to read. Collars can be removed. Chips and tattoos can be overlooked. Still, there’s an identification system to meet the needs and preferences of every person and every dog, from the tiniest teacup Poodles to the most massive of Mastiffs.
The wisest people invest in more than one, so they have backup systems if one fails. We took a look at some of the low-to-mid-range options to help you choose, and left the high-end Mercedes models for another day. We evaluated seven different ID tags (and one collar), based on legibility, durability, functionality, aesthetic appeal, comfort for the dog, and cost.
Instant identification
We often like different products for different reasons. We have been huge fans of the next product for quite some time, based on its affordability and ease of use.
At 50 cents apiece (or less, if you buy them in bulk), the Jiffy-Tags/Instant Pet ID Tag (made by Animal Care Equipment & Services, Inc., of Crestline, California) can hardly get any more affordable!
It takes only a minute to customize this lightweight, heart-shaped tag. Basically, you write your dog’s information on both sides of a piece of pre-punched paper, and sandwich it between two pieces of adhesive-backed protective plastic. Then you slip it on the dog’s collar with the “O” ring conveniently provided in the packaging.
We always keep dozens of these handy little instant ID tags around. We give them to friends when they visit so they can slap an ID tag with local contact information on their dogs, and we take them with us when we travel so we can fill out new ones for our canine kids every time we stay in a new place. Having a friend or petsitter take care of your dogs while you are out of town? With these tags, you can inexpensively add the caretaker’s phone number to your dog’s regular arsenal of identification.
The lightweight tags are surprisingly durable – even on those of our dogs who like to swim regularly – and they don’t jingle against the licenses like the metal ones do. For all these reasons, we use them as our dogs’ regular ID, and think everyone should have a supply of these on hand.
FastTags are another type of tag that can be made quickly, and are inexpensive enough to use as temporary ID while traveling. Made by Ruff & Tumble Company of Woodland Hills, California, these are curious shrinkable plastic tags that you write on, then bake in the oven. They shrink and become thicker in the oven, and the writing becomes (more or less) embedded in the plastic (the maker also includes a small piece of adhesive-backed plastic that covers and protects the writing). These tags are not only attractive and durable, but also fun to make – they’d be a great project for a child under parental supervision. They come in a variety of different shapes (10), including a bone, doghouse, fire hydrant, and paw prints.
Since you write on these products yourself, it’s important to use good handwriting in order for them to be legible. If your handwriting is not good, have a friend write on the tags for you.
Made to order
We like both of the aforementioned products because they can be customized for your dog in minutes. The next few products are made to order, and generally take one to three weeks to be made and arrive at your door. Make sure your dog wears some form of temporary identification while waiting for the following products to arrive.
You can’t get more personal than a Personalized Adjustable Collar, a good quality nylon collar with your dog’s information actually stitched right into the fabric. Made by RC Steele, of Brockport, New York, these classy and relatively affordable collars certainly eliminate the problem of tag-jingle and the possibility of a tag falling off. The collars come in small, medium, and large in a variety of colors, and you can also order a personalized leash to match, for the stylishly accessorized look. Perhaps the only drawback to this product is the limit to the number of characters that will fit on the collars – about 30, which should be enough for any dog’s name and phone number, but not much more.
The Personalized Brass Slider Tag, also made by RC Steele, is another product designed to eliminate the risk of tag loss or the problem of tag-jingle. The slider is a rectangular-shaped, flat brass tag with a slot at each end to run a collar strap through; it is engraved to order.
The slider is very durable and attractive, but doesn’t quite make our 4-Paw rating because (as we realized after we ordered one) it can be used only on a flat collar that buckles. You can’t put it on a snap-closing collar because the plastic snap hardware won’t fit through the slots. Also, it’s a tad large for toy-sized dogs – it would be a bit bulky, and the tag would need to be curved to form to the shape of a smaller dog’s neck.
Perhaps the most captivating ID product we examined is the PetScope, made by eScopes LLC, of Santa Monica, California. The PetScope is a small metal or plastic tube with an eyepiece at one end. When you hold it up to a light source and look into the eyepiece (like you would look through a kaleidoscope) you see a tinted screen that contains an incredible amount of information about your dog. Believe it or not, this tiny ID tag can list your name, address, and phone; your dog’s description and the name of his usual food; your veterinarian’s name, number and location; your dog’s medical information and vaccination history; special care instructions, and a place for you to sign to grant permission for your dog’s emergency treatment in case of an accident. Wow!
How do they get all that into that little tube? When you order the PetScope, you fill in the information on a large paper disc and send it in to the company, where they reproduce the sheet on a tiny disk of microfilm that fits in the end of the tube. (If you order online, the information is printed onto the form for you – a good option for those with messy handwriting.)
When we first saw the product advertised, we were worried that a person who found a dog with the PetScope on the collar might not recognize the tiny box as an identification tag. We were happy to see that PetScope solved this problem by stamping “PET ID” on one side of the tube and “LOOK” on the other side.
The product comes in several different models, from the affordable plastic $13 model, to a $17 silver tone, a $20 gold plate, and a classy $45 sterling silver version. The scopes are waterproof and come with a lifetime warranty.
Our only criticism? In one of the three samples we received, the tiny information disc had slipped loose inside its tube and was flipped sideways. We could tap the product so that it flipped to a readable position, but if we shook the tube it flipped up again. While we appreciate the lifetime warranty that would (ostensibly) replace this product with another one, we worry that if the disc came loose while the dog was lost, a finder might not be able to read the contact information on the disc.
Not recommended
We didn’t anticipate seeing any difference between this product and the FastTag, mentioned earlier. Both products are made of plastic that is written on and then placed in the oven to shrink. But the Shrink ID-EZE Instant Pet ID Tag, made by Kylen Company of Huntington Beach, California, is not executed quite as well.
After baking, we found this tag to be considerably thinner, so that it could bend and break more easily. Also, the designs on a few of the tags are dark and “busy” enough that it makes the writing on the tag difficult to read. Finally, there is no adhesive plastic provided to protect the writing from wear. This is still a usable product, but if you are interested in these “shrink to complete” tags, we suggest you spend the extra dollar and go with the FastTag instead.
As the name suggests, the Dog ID Tag and Reflector, made by Oster Professional Products of McMinnville, Tennessee, seemed to offer an additional feature – a reflector – that many dog owners would find useful for walking after dark. While the product does, in fact, reflect light well, it does not serve well as an ID tag.
This is a very low-tech product; you write on a bit of paper that is glued to the back of the reflector and snap on a protective see-through plastic cover. We doubt this tag would hold up to much wear and tear, and in order to be waterproof, the maker suggests you paint over the writing with clear nail polish – not a convenient process. It may be better than no tag at all, but we suspect you’d find yourself replacing it frequently – or worse, not replacing it and leaving your dog without ID.
We not only subscribe to your periodical but also frequently suggest it as a source to our customers; especially since “WHOLE DOG JOURNAL DOES NOT ACCEPT ADVERTISING.” However, in recent issues we feel you are losing credibility in this area. For example, in the July 2001 issue, in your “Editorial Corrections” section on page 2, you mentioned that the phone number for the company that makes the Buddy Bowl, a featured product from an earlier issue, was out of order. You suggested that readers purchase the product at Petco.
As a small independent retailer, we have carried the Buddy Bowl for more than two years – and yet the only source you mentioned from which customers could purchase this product was Petco. You frequently mention that items can be purchased from either catalog sources or large retail/discount operations. This type of “advertising” of the big box stores adds yet another difficulty for the small independent retailer as we strive to maintain our position in the marketplace.
Rather than mention specific locations from which products can be purchased, a contact number or Web address for the manufacturer who could then direct them to a retailer in their area might be an approach more consistent with the standards we would hope you maintain.
-Barbara Schori Pampered Paws, LLC, Granby, CT
Thanks for giving us the opportunity to explain ourselves on this point.
We would absolutely LOVE to direct readers to their local independent retailers to buy all the products we review. We have found that, without exception, it is the devoted and discriminating small business owners who carry the healthiest foods and safest products. For this reason and many others, we agree: People should always support their local independent pet store, whenever possible.
However, we really hear about it when frustrated readers can’t find the products we mention at their local stores. That’s why we try to offer information about the product makers; even if they don’t or won’t sell the product directly, we hope they will direct readers to a local retailer. Or retailers can call them and arrange to carry it.
Sometimes, however, it’s almost impossible to find the product makers, in which case we’re stuck with passing along our only certain source for the product, which is what happened in the case of the Buddy Bowl.
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I am disappointed with the dried salmon and venison treats you mentioned in “There Is a Difference” (September 2001). There is a much better freeze-dried salmon treat made by Wildside Salmon of Seattle, Washington, which is 100 percent salmon, period. Dogs and cats love them and they are not greasy. You can contact the company at (206) 722-3474 or www.wildsidesalmon.com. Another treat that is just meat and nothing else is Rosie’s Rewards, a 100 percent beef treat made from hormone-free, range grown, USDA-inspected beef. You can contact Rosie’s Rewards in Pray, Montana, at (877) 767-3283 or www.rosiesrewards.com. My animals just love these products and I think these products would meet your criteria.
I was particularly happy to see the Buddy Biscuits reviewed so positively. The company (CloudStar, of San Luis Obispo, California) uses excellent ingredients in all of its products. Have your reviewed its shampoo and conditioner? The next time you do shampoos, these would be great.
-Kathy Wagers via e-mail
Thanks for the tips on the salmon and the beef treats. They both appear to be superior treats. And, yes, we have tried CloudStar’s dog shampoo and rinse (Buddy Wash and Buddy Rinse), and you’re right; they are fabulous products. You’ll see them at the top of our recommendations when we next get around to reviewing shampoos. Every time Rupert has been bathed with Buddy Wash and Buddy Rinse, someone will say, “It smells so nice in here! What IS that fragrance?!” Then we have to confess it’s the DOG who smells so good, not us!
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Bear with me for a minute; Im actually going to tell you a cat story.
A couple of years ago, as I was packing for a business trip, my big tabby cat walked into the house holding his head tilted oddly sideways. Tigger purred as I carried him to the kitchen table for an examination. Was this simply a Help! Ive got tape stuck to my fur! kind of problem? Or a trip-cancelling, Quick! Rush him into surgery! kind of thing?
It turned out to be something in the middle. Tigger had some sort of wound on the top of his head, and it had abscessed, making one ear and one side of his head swollen and sensitive. He needed veterinary care.
I called my local holistic veterinary practice, where Tigger had been seen for health checkups previously, but they were completely booked. So I called the closest veterinary clinic and was told I could bring the cat in right away. I had never been to this clinic before, but I didnt anticipate any problem.
I had my first inkling that all was not going to go smoothly when the veterinary technician spent more time asking me about the cats vaccination history, dental-cleaning history, diet, and indoor/outdoor status than actually looking at the cat. But then the veterinarian came in and my fears eased. A warm and clearly competent practitioner, she quickly ascertained the extent of the damage, and outlined reasonable suggestions for treatment as she rubbed Tiggers chest and chin, to his delight.
Then she reached for a clipboard. She asked me to look over and initial the list of charges that I would incur for this treatment while she went to get some antibiotics and other supplies. I was stunned to see a figure of more than $500 and a long list of proposed treatments. I looked more carefully at the form it was a computer printout, prepared by the technician before the veterinarian entered the room and it included recommendations for a number of vaccinations, a teeth-cleaning (to be scheduled for another day), and even post-teeth-cleaning antibiotics!
Suffice to say that we had a strained conversation when the vet returned to the room. She argued for the necessity of vaccinating the cat; I countered that I didnt think he needed the boosters, and that, anyway, with his current infection, it was no time to be fooling with his immune system. And when I did allow that he probably did need his teeth cleaned, and that Id be happy to bring him back at another time to have that done, she said triumphantly, Then hell have to have the vaccinations; he cant spend the day here without having them!
The veterinarian clearly thought she was doing what she thought best for Tigger. But so was I. Initialing only the treatment for Tiggers ear, I stuck to my guns. The room was very quiet as she worked on the cat, and she was short when I thanked her for her help.
I remembered this story as I listened to a friend on the phone recently. She described how condescending a veterinarian and his staff members became after she refused to allow a procedure for a test she didnt think was necessary for her aged and rapidly declining dog. She didnt think the information gained from the test would be worth the potential physical stress and damage it could cause especially since the results of the test would not necessarily change the dogs treatment! She was very hurt and angered by the staffs lack of understanding of her decision.
Its very difficult to stand up to an expert you are paying, whether its a vet, trainer, or breeder, and say you wont take their advice. But sometimes you have to; not all experts are right, or know whats best for your dog! And dont get too upset about one of these encounters; just start looking for an expert whose theories and methods alignbetter with yours. Trust me; there are plenty of them out there.
There are two types of people in the world: Those who give their dogs treats, and those who don’t, ever. I think all of us here belong in the former group. Right? Everyone with me? Good.
We are all aware that we could make our own dogs treats rather than buy them. Some of us do make our dogs’ treats, sometimes. But there is something special about buying snacks for our dogs – sort of like buying Popsicles from the ice cream man for the kids; it may be expensive, and impulsive, and foolish. But so what? The joyous little doggie dance that dogs do when they know you’ve got something yummy for them is worth any price.
Actually, feeding treats to your dog is not all whimsy – far from it. Regular readers of WDJ know that food is the most powerful tool we have to motivate a dog to pay attention to us. And once they understand that they can get humans to give them treats by performing various tasks, most dogs get downright desperate to perform. “Sit? Down? Shake hands? High five? You say the word, boss, and I’ll do it; just keep those biscuits coming!”
Our regular readers also know that we talk about dog food in every issue of WDJ. We discuss homemade diets constantly, review dry dog foods every February and canned foods every October, and occasionally talk about innovations such as commercially freeze dried foods, frozen raw diets, and fermented foods.
We talk about food so obsessively because the quality and type of food that you feed your dog probably has a greater impact on his health than any other factor in his life. With all other factors being equal, dogs who eat better food will be healthier. And there is just no sense in feeding your dog great food and then slipping him awful, chemical-laden treats!
Support health
So, in general, we suggest looking for treats that support the same general philosophy that guides your dog food purchases, with a couple of exceptions. While they are sometimes formulated to meet the standards for “complete and balanced” nutrition set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) for dogs, they don’t have to be; your dog won’t be surviving on these and nothing else. But neither should they contain nutrients in amounts that so radically depart from a dog’s daily diet that their consumption (even in small amounts) would completely imbalance his diet.
Also, some dogs are intolerant or allergic to certain food ingredients. Obviously, you have to shop for treats that do not contain those ingredients; even the small amount that a sensitive dog might consume in an occasional treat could set off a reaction. Fortunately, as long as you are aware of what specific ingredient your dog can’t tolerate, it should be even easier to find a treat without it than a dog food; there are probably even more special-formula treats available for dogs than there are special-formula dog foods. Interestingly, there are a number of treat manufacturers who claim to have started their businesses because they couldn’t find a commercial source of treats that met the special dietary consideration of their own allergic or sensitive dogs.
Palatability issues
On the next page, we discuss some of traits we like to see in a treat, and some things we think that treats really shouldn’t contain. Our “likes/dislikes” lists are pretty clear, until you come to the issue of palatability enhancers. Generally, whenever we talk about dog foods, we say that products that contain good-quality ingredients won’t need palatability enhancers to attract dogs to eat them. But treats are supposed to make dogs especially enthusiastic, motivated, and gratified, so they should taste extra nice. For this reason, we don’t mind seeing some palatability enhancement in a treat recipe. But we do insist that it’s still a natural, healthy enhancer – natural sweeteners over artificial ones, for example.
This consideration caused us some unexpected angst in the category of meat-based treats. We found a handful of meaty treats that – from arm’s length – looked like healthy, delicious candidates. We naively thought that these treats would be the purest available, since two were comprised largely of dried salmon, and two were mostly venison – what more would you need to thrill a dog? But in each case, we were disappointed to discover that the dried meats were loaded with additional palatability enhancers – salt, sugar, and artificial additives such as smoke flavor. What’s up with that? Compared to the products we rated “one-bone” (do not buy!), however, the additives are a mere sprinkling, so these products get our “two-bone” rating.
You’ll have to guess whether your dog will be motivated by grain-based treats; pungent flavors such as cheese, salt, anise, or peanut butter; sweets (molasses, sugar, or honey); or if he’s a meat-eatin’-only kind of guy. Don’t hesitate to try something new! He might surprise you and develop a healthy craving for cheese or apple flavors.
We have noticed that many dogs who have been trained with treats are so conditioned to expect something yummy from you, that they don’t seem to really care when the treat you hand them is not all that tasty – they would happily crunch and swallow a dirt clod or two before they caught on. Other dogs are motivated only by what our Training Editor, Pat Miller, calls “high-value” treats: fragrant and delicious confections. Sometimes it takes a while to find the treat that makes your dog do somersaults.
Other considerations
Because we advocate every imaginable type of positive-reinforcement training, we end up feeding our dogs a lot of treats. (Often, you can train the dog with his own dinner- kibble as a reward, only using higher-value treats for learning new or demanding tricks that beg for greater motivation.) For training purposes, it’s best if the treats are very small. If a dog received a paw-sized biscuit every time he did something right in a training session, he’d be corpulent in no time. So, while we can easily break up a large treat into tiny pieces for training, we especially appreciate manufacturers who deliver their tasty wares in tiny sizes.
We also enjoy it when a treat maker has an especially engaging or amusing package. We know that seems shallow! But we also know that attractively packaged dog treats make great, inexpensive gifts for our dog-loving friends – and most of our friends love dogs! Our amusement does not, however, extend to the “fake human food” school of presentation that is so popular among the big-name, grocery-store treats. Generally, the use of chemical humectants and artificial colors (both on our list of no-no’s) are required to make treats look like bacon, ham bones, sausages, etc. And it’s not like our dogs appreciate the effort!
On a more practical note, when the treats come in an easily recloseable container (we like plastic jars and zipper-type plastic bags), it’s a bonus. These containers keep the treats from losing flavor and freshness.
Finally, note that this is not – obviously – a list of every treat maker in the country. Rather, we wanted to show you a few samples of some of the treats that we think are absolutely the best, some that are just fine and dandy, and some that we think you ought to avoid, and highlight the features that helped us make those distinctions. Then, if it’s not already listed here, you can compare the list of ingredients and determine where on our scale your dog’s favorite treat would fit. The following chart is arranged alphabetically by rating.
The rescued puppy has diarrhea, gummy eyes, ear mites, and ringworm, but there’s a spark in his eye and his tail is wagging. A stray dog has an upper respiratory infection, skin lesions and worms, yet the person who finds her knows she’ll make a loyal companion.
Some of the best dogs come into our lives in damaged condition, and the right support can transform them. Yet when dogs have multiple problems, it’s hard to know what to do first. Many dogs and puppies in pet stores, animal shelters, or on the street suffer from malnutrition and conditions that take advantage of impaired immunity; parasites, bacterial infections, fungi, and viruses all take their toll.
Not only neglected or starving dogs suffer from a lack of wholesome, nutritious food, causing and prolonging illness; there are numerous dogs whose food bowls are filled with kibble daily who nonetheless exhibit signs of nutritional deficiencies. A dog who eats nothing but low-quality, generic, and/or “grocery store” type foods – which may not contain quality ingredients with bio-available nutrients – may develop chronic conditions relating to his undernourished condition.
If your dog started life as a parasite-laden “pound puppy,” spent some time in a shelter, or is a long-term consumer of low-quality food, start his rehabilitation with his food bowl. A high-quality diet with appropriate supplements can help the dog heal himself.
Most holistic veterinarians believe that improving the diet of these chronically ill dogs – and dogs who suffer from multiple ailments – is critical to restoring these dogs to health. Moreover, the use of certain supplements can significantly boost the dog’s ability to heal himself. Below, we’ll describe the most commonly used, effective nutritional approaches for quickly improving a dog’s health and vitality.
First things first
If you’ve brought a raggedy stray dog or a beleaguered shelter dog into your home and heart, you’ll want to address some of his most obvious problems immediately; not many of us could or would wait for improved nutrition and health to heal a dog’s minor cuts or abrasions, infections, or parasite infestations, even though these things generally will eventually resolve if a dog is fed and supplemented correctly. However, some gentle treatments can be employed right away to make the dog more comfortable – and help you be more comfortable around him!
When taking a holistic approach to health, we don’t generally employ the use of powerful antibiotics and antibacterials for minor conditions. Instead, we use mild treatments that work synergistically with the body. For example, minor cuts, abrasions, hot spots, and skin lesions can be doused with strong antibacterial solutions – such as iodine-based soaps, topical antibiotic ointments, or alcohol-based rinses – which will help kill bacteria. But these preparations can also kill healthy tissue and the dog’s own pathogen-fighting cells in a sort of scorched-earth manner. Many dog owners have found less forceful preparations to be just as effective – and less insulting to the body’s own defenders. Most minor external injuries can be cleaned with liberal applications of aloe vera juice or gel with perfect results.
Similarly, don’t automatically turn to pesticides to control parasites; these preparations can burden the dog’s already overworked toxin-removal system. To treat ear mites, swab the dog’s ears with a cotton ball saturated with pure mineral oil every two or three days for three weeks. Mineral oil, which has large molecules, smothers the mites. Clean the ears with cotton or tissues before reapplying the oil. Remove fleas with a gentle shampoo and nontoxic flea control products; comb the dog daily with a fine-toothed flea-comb and you will note a steadily decreasing population of the pests. Frequently vacuum your house thoroughly (to remove any flea eggs) and wash the dog’s bedding (to destroy flea eggs) to help prevent reinfestation.
In short, do what you can to make the animal clean and comfortable, without causing any new problems. And make an appointment as soon as possible with your holistic veterinarian for an overall health check.
Food first; then supplements
An important step in any dog’s recovery is the right diet. Dogs are designed to eat a variety of fresh, whole foods, and a balanced, raw, home-prepared diet is an excellent way to provide the nutrients they need to heal from the inside out.
For those who aren’t able to feed Fido from scratch, buy the best commercial dog food you can find and afford . . . and then improve on it. (See “The Best Dry Dog Foods,” WDJ February 2001, “Canned Answers,” WDJ October 2000, and “Food in the Freezer,” WDJ March 2000.)
Fresh juice and raw liver are some of the healthiest foods you can add to your dog’s diet. If you have a juicer, use it. Most dogs and puppies love carrot juice, which contains abundant zinc, vitamin E, copper, beta carotene, and other nutrients that strengthen immunity. For best results, use organically grown carrots and add a handful of celery, parsley, or apple as desired. Feed directly if your dog likes it (most do) or start with small amounts in food. Try to feed 1/2 cup fresh juice per 25-30 pounds of body weight per day.
An easy way to make fresh, raw carrot juice even more nutritious is to add raw liver. Some veterinarians call liver a miracle food for its ability to save lives and improve health. I’ve heard of newborn puppies who were dying of Fading Puppy Syndrome come back to life as soon as a tablespoon of chopped liver was added to their mothers’ diet. Bottle-fed orphan pups suddenly grow and gain weight when pureed liver is added to their formula, and dogs with injuries and serious illnesses heal faster when liver is added to their food.
Raw beef and chicken liver are rich in protein, amino acids, phosphorus, potassium, copper, vitamin A, and B-complex vitamins including folic acid, pantothenic acid, vitamin B6 and choline. Because the liver stores toxins, feed liver only from organically raised poultry and cattle.
To help sick dogs and puppies, feed small amounts, such as one teaspoon raw organic calf or chicken liver per 10 to 20 pounds of body weight, once or twice per day.
Support supplements
When a dog or puppy has multiple problems, it’s tempting to try every supplement that might help. With thousands of products on the market, deciding what to buy can be daunting.
“I would start with digestive enzymes, colostrum, and acidophilus to try to get the natural flora going again,” says Beverly Cappel, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Chestnut Ridge, NY. “In addition you can give superoxide dismutase (DOS), B vitamins, vitamin C, and echinacea-goldenseal tincture to help fight infection. Puppies need only a drop or two of tincture, and depending on size, adult dogs can take up to 10-15 drops a day. You don’t want to overdo it by giving too many supplements or too much of anything, because when dogs or puppies are seriously weak, that can push them over the edge. Keep them warm and dry, make sure they’re eating, and make sure they’re hydrated.
“If drugs are needed, use drugs. Some animals have such acute infections that antibiotics save their lives, but in many cases, all they need is tender loving care and the right nourishment.
“I tell people to use common sense and treat sick puppies the way they would an infant or young child. Keep them warm, dry, well fed, and well watered, and give them any product that supports the immune system.”
Enzymes
Enzymes are proteins that, in small amounts, speed the rate of biological reactions such as digestion. Nearly every raw food carries within it the enzymes necessary for its digestion, but cooking inactivates these enzymes and the body must work hard to replace them in order for food to be broken down and assimilated.
Acidophilus probiotic supplements, in capsule or liquid form, should be kept refrigerated.
Digestive enzymes such as pancreatin and bromelain help replace enzymes destroyed by heat. Enzyme supplements given between meals on an empty stomach help dogs recover from illness and injury. Enzyme powders mixed with food improve its digestion and assimilation. Even dogs on an all-raw diet, which contains abundant enzymes, can benefit from these supplements when ill or recovering from illness. (For more information about systemic oral enzyme therapy, see “Banking on Enzymes,” WDJ January 2001.)
Colostrum and lactoferrin
Colostrum is the first milk a mammal produces after giving birth. In dogs, cows, and humans, this milk is so rich in immune system support that it protects newborns from infections and intestinal disorders. Colostrum affects 32 growth factors including muscle, cartilage, connective tissue, body weight, and lean muscle.
Colostrum and lactoferrin protect the mucous membrane, interfere with the reproduction of harmful bacteria, activate T-cells which attack invading organisms, repair damaged muscle and cartilage tissue, and improve muscle tone. They are recommended for any animal that is weak, elderly, susceptible to illness, and fighting or recovering from any disease.
Colostrum supplements derived from cows’ milk are reported to enhance immune function in dogs and kittens. Lactoferrin, one of the immune factors in colostrum, is also sold as an immune-enhancing supplement.
Probiotics and prebiotics
A probiotic supplement, like live-culture yogurt or acidophilus, contains beneficial bacteria that help fight infection while improving digestion. Prebiotic supplements actually nourish the beneficial bacteria. Together, prebiotics and probiotics help replace beneficial bacteria destroyed by antibiotics or an inadequate diet.
Powdered acidophilus and similar probiotics can be added to food or mixed with water. Check your health food store’s refrigerator for the freshest supplements.
Sweet whey (not to be confused with whey protein) is a by-product of cheese-making and the clear liquid that separates from yogurt when you strain it through cheesecloth. This important prebiotic feeds the beneficial bacteria in your dog’s digestive tract. If fresh whey is not available, powdered sweet whey can be added to food or water; in fact, most dogs like the taste, so adding sweet whey to water encourages them to drink more. Start with small amounts, such as 1/8 teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight twice a day, to be sure the dog tolerates it well. Giving the milk-digesting enzyme lactase at the same time can help prevent indigestion or, if the dog has trouble with whey, use a different prebiotic.
The Jerusalem artichoke is a potato-like tuber of the sunflower family, and in Europe and Japan, Jerusalem artichoke flour is added to bread, pasta, and other foods to improve digestion and feed beneficial bacteria. Inuflora is made from Jerusalem artichoke tubers that are juiced, then dehydrated. This sweet powder, produced in Germany, has been extensively tested in farm animals. According to Monika Kreuger, DVM, rector at the University of Leipzig, professor of veterinary medicine and chief of the Institute of Bacteriology and Microbiology, Inuflora also inhibits enzymatic reactions stimulated by harmful bacteria, reducing the animal’s susceptibility to infection.
Vitamins and minerals
Dogs that have multiple infections will especially benefit from supplemental vitamins and minerals. There are many multi-vitamin/mineral supplements on the market, but many holistic veterinarians prefer to use vitamin/mineral products made from whole-food sources, such as Catalyn from Standard Process or similar products from Wysong. Food-source supplements are so easily assimilated and free from adverse side effects that precision dosing isn’t necessary. Use label recommendations for guidance, but know varying dosages, such as those consumed by wild canines, won’t hurt your dog.
Although dogs produce their own vitamin C, they can benefit from extra C when ill or under stress. In his book How to Have a Healthier Dog, Wendell Belfield, DVM, documents vitamin C’s ability to improve immunity, treat viral and bacterial infections, detoxify the body, improve collagen, and improve the condition of cancer patients. He also dispels the myth that large quantities of vitamin C can be toxic or cause kidney stones. Too much vitamin C can cause loose stools or diarrhea. If that happens, reduce the dosage.
For best results, use a natural vitamin C complex that includes bioflavonoids. Any dog being treated for multiple infections can use 500-3000 mg. or more per day, depending on size and condition, in divided doses. Open capsules or crush tablets and mix the powder with food. Pediatric vitamin C drops are appropriate for pups, but as soon as possible, replace synthetic vitamin C with vitamin C from whole-food sources, such as Wysong’s Food C. As the dog’s condition improves, reduce vitamin C to maintenance doses based on label directions. Even small amounts of vitamin C make a difference if the C is from whole-food sources.
Vitamin E improves heart health, strengthens the immune system, protects the body from toxins, helps heal skin lesions, improves the effectiveness of other vitamins and minerals, and has a rejuvenating effect on older dogs.
Dr. Belfield recommends up to 100 International Units (IUs) per day for small dogs, 200 IU for medium, 400 IU for large, and 600 IU for giant breeds. Use a natural vitamin E such as Carlson Labs’ E-Gems. Prick a capsule and squeeze a small amount into food or into the dog’s mouth.
Vitamins D and A work together with vitamin E to boost immunity and fight infection. Cod liver oil is rich in both D and A, but too much of either can be toxic, so don’t overdose. Dr. Belfield recommends 100-400 IU vitamin D and 1500-7500 IU vitamin A, depending on the dog’s size and activity level. Check product labels to verify vitamin D and vitamin A levels.
Amino acids
Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins needed to construct every cell of every organ, bone, and fluid in the body. For optimum health, essential amino acids must be provided in the proper balance.
One excellent whole-food source of amino acids is the supplement Seacure, which is made from fermented deep-sea fish. In addition to helping dogs recover from illness, Seacure speeds wound healing and aids detoxification. It is especially helpful for recently weaned puppies. Most dogs love its strong fishy odor. Add to food or mix with water and give puppies one capsule three or four times per day (use a syringe or eyedropper to feed puppies as needed), or two capsules three or four times per day for adult dogs. Continue this dosage until the dog is completely well, then give one or two capsules per day for one or two months.
Gelatin
Gelatin, a jellylike substance formed when tendons, ligaments, and bones containing the protein collagen are boiled in water, is most familiar in fruit-flavored desserts. But the beneficial effects of plain gelatin are well documented in medical literature.
When taken with food, gelatin acts as an aid to digestion. It has been successfully used in the treatment of many human intestinal disorders, including colitis and Crohn’s disease. Although gelatin is not a complete protein, containing only the amino acids arginine and glycine in large amounts, it acts as a protein sparer, allowing the body to more fully utilize the complete proteins in foods eaten at the same time. Gelatin is also of use in treating many chronic disorders, including anemia, diabetes, and cancer.
Home-prepared gelatin-rich broths are easy to make by soaking bones and vegetables in cold water for an hour with two tablespoons vinegar per quart of water, then simmering over low heat for 24 hours. Generous amounts can be added to any pet’s food during and after convalescence. Alternatively, mix powdered gelatin with a small amount of cold water and add to meat, poultry, eggs, and other high-protein foods.
Stabilized rice bran
Approximately 65 percent of the nutrients in rice are in the bran, the seed coat or polish that covers the white interior kernel. Millions of metric tons of rice bran are discarded annually, unfit for human consumption because it spoils so quickly. Within a few hours of milling, rice bran’s fragile oils go rancid.
In India, where polished rice is a staple grain, fresh rice bran from the mill floor is a folk remedy that has long been used to treat illnesses in adults and children. Rice bran is rich in vitamin E, antioxidants, plant sterols, amino acids, trace minerals, fiber, B vitamins and other phytonutrients that are easily assimilated and work synergistically to restore good health.
In the 1980s, USDA researchers in California discovered a method for deactivating the lipase enzyme and stabilizing the oils in rice bran, preventing rancidity and giving the bran a long shelf life. It has been used in animal feeds ever since, and according to Betty Kamen, PhD, the benefits to companion animals and horses include improvement in joints and connective tissue, skin and coat disorders, metabolism, immune system function, stamina, cell protection, and stable blood sugar. “Another animal health application is the positive effect of rice bran on canine digestion,” she says, “especially after bouts of gastroenteritis. The fiber and digestive coenzymes in rice bran are said to bring about a natural calming effect in the digestive system.”
Dog owners and breeders using stabilized rice bran report increased vitality, reduced shedding, and improved endurance.
Garlic
Many culinary herbs have medicinal uses, but garlic is both the most widely used and the most researched. Garlic is rich in sulfur compounds and volatile oils. It fights infection, helps prevent cancer, expels tapeworms, inhibits protozoan infections such as Giardia lamblia, makes animals less attractive hosts to fleas and other parasites, and prevents blood clotting.
Garlic’s odor can be offensive, but several companies produce odorless garlic products. Dr. Belfield describes how some breeders prevent roundworms and other parasites by giving each dog and puppy one garlic-parsley tablet per day. Alternatively, grind, chop, or finely mince fresh garlic and parsley together and add one-quarter-teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight to food.
Retired veterinarian Gloria Dodd, DVM, endorses Kyolic brand aged garlic extract and gives it to all her animals as well as to herself and her family every day. When a new strain of parvovirus that causes severe hemorrhagic gastroenteritis struck her California valley, most of the infected dogs died from acute toxemia despite prompt veterinary treatment. By adding Kyolic to her protocol, Dr. Dodd was able to save many of her patients.
For puppies and small or toy breeds, Dr. Dodd recommends adding a half-teaspoon Kyolic liquid three times a day for one week, followed by a half-teaspoon once a day. For adult dogs, the dose is one teaspoon three times a day for one week and one teaspoon per day after that, and for large breeds, one tablespoon three times a day for one week and one tablespoon per day for maintenance.
Any of these nutritional support products can be used in any combination by puppies and dogs with multiple problems, helping today’s debilitated rescue dog shine in perfect health for years to come.
If this dog was a serious “resource guarder,” this would be quite dangerous for the person. As it is, this dog is showing a low – but detectable – level of anxiety about having someone so close to his food: His tail is not wagging; his body is braced, and he’s watching the person as he eats, though he does not make friendly eye contact. More serious guarding behavior might also include growling, raising his lips to show his teeth, or a quick biting attack.
Dusty, our diminutive eight-pound Pomeranian, grabs a chew-hoof and darts under the coffee table with his prize. Tucker, the 75-pound Cattle Dog-mix approaches, eyeing the hoof covetously. Dusty curls his lip and emits a surprisingly convincing growl for such a tiny canine. Despite the fact that he could easily take the hoof away from the much smaller dog, Tucker backs off, leaving Dusty to chew in peace. We watch, and chuckle at the mini-drama that plays out in our living room almost daily.
It’s most common for dogs to defend their food, but edible items are not the only things that dogs will keep from all potential rivals. Some dogs will defend their “ownership” of toys, a favored place to sleep, or the water bowl. Behaviorists and dog trainers call these protective behaviors “resource guarding.”
A dog who defends his food from other dogs is exhibiting a perfectly normal and appropriate canine behavior. In the wild, where food supply equals life, the dog who gives up his food easily has a poor chance for survival. Because survival of individuals is important for survival of the pack, higher ranking pack members often, although not always, subscribe to a “possession is nine-tenths of the law” philosophy. It’s generally not worth the risk of injury to a pack member to argue over a bit of food or bone.
Guarding from humans
Resource guarding is far less acceptable, of course, when it’s directed toward us. For our own safety, we want dogs to understand that everything they have is really ours. But dogs are probably somewhat confused by our species’ apparent ignorance of the “nine-tenths” rule. Accommodating creatures that they are, most dogs learn to give up coveted possessions to their owners without much of a fuss, but from time to time one of our canine pals decides to aggressively assert his ownership rights to something: a precious toy, a tasty rawhide chew, or a bowl of food. If this describes your dog, you have a serious problem on your hands.
Identify objects of dispute
The more specific the guarding, the easier the behavior is to manage. If your dog only guards truffles, say, you’re pretty safe – at $20 per pound, your dog won’t often stumble across a forgotten pile of the costly fungus. If anything remotely edible falls into his definition of “guardable,” however, you have a much bigger challenge.
Generalized food guarding is the most common manifestation of resource guarding, and often the most dangerous, since it is virtually impossible to control the presence of food in the dog’s environment. No matter how diligent you are, he will inevitably find a cookie that fell between the cracks of the sofa, a bag of fast-food remnants in the gutter, or a deposit of kitty-poo in the garden. (While we may not consider cat poop to be edible, to a dog, anything consumable is food.)
Determine extent of guarding
Resource guarding describes a continuum of behaviors, all of which indicate that a dog is not comfortable with the presence of you or some other human in his “space” while he is in possession of a valuable article. Let’s look at a description of various food-guarding behaviors, from those that pose no risk to the dog’s human companions to those that pose a grave risk:
Level 1: The ideal and safest response when you approach Fido at his food bowl is that he stops eating, wags his tail, and comes over to greet you. He is telling you that he doesn’t perceive you as a threat to his food, or if he does, he doesn’t care. The food’s not all that important to him; he’d be happy to share it with you.
Level 2: A slightly less perfect but still very safe reaction is that Fido looks at you, wags his tail, and continues eating, but is still relaxed about your presence in the food zone.
Level 3: The first sign of discomfort on Fido’s part is usually a slight tensing of his body as you approach. He may also wag his tail. However, if the speed of the wag increases as you get closer to him and the amount of tension in his body, he is communicating that your presence near his resources makes him uncomfortable.
Level 4: As the dog’s discomfort escalates, so does his behavior. At the next level you are likely to see a glare in his eye when he looks at you, perhaps a lifting of the lip in a snarl, maybe a low growl, and an obvious increase in eating speed. One very effective way to prevent you from getting any of his food is for him to eat it quickly.
Level 5: If the food is portable, such as a chew-hoof or pig ear, at this level, the dog may carry the item under a chair, a bed, or into his crate, then growl at you when you come too near. If he can’t pick it up, he may try to push the food bowl farther away from you when you continue to trespass.
Level 6: A serious food-guarder is more than willing to put some teeth into his warnings. A snap is the next step on the continuum – no contact with your flesh, but a no-uncertain-terms statement that Fido is not prepared to share his food with you.
Level 7: As Fido’s protectiveness increases, so does the threat to your safety (or the safety of the child passing by). More serious than a snap is the actual bite. Rarely does a food-guarding bite not break skin – the contact is usually very quick and hard, and may consist of several puncturing bites that move up the transgressor’s arm or face.
Level 8: Severe food guarding can be triggered even at a distance. At the strongest level, even a person on the far side of the room can be perceived as a threat to the highly valued food or item, and the dog’s behavior can escalate very quickly and alarmingly with a seemingly innocuous movement, even from far away.
Behavior modification
The key to winning the resource guarding battle lies in:
1.) excellent management of guardable resources in the dog’s presence, and
2.) convincing the dog that your presence is not a threat to his food supply.
Rather, he needs to see you as the welcome harbinger of all delicious consumables. Your presence near your dog should be a reliable predictor of the advent of more good stuff, not less. Your role as benevolent distributor of valuable resources is the foundation of your behavior management and modification program.
The good news is that not all dogs who display low levels of guarding behavior will advance to higher levels. The behavior you see may be the worst that they ever offer, especially if you implement a behavior modification program before the response escalates. The prognosis for successful behavior modification improves greatly if you begin a program as soon as possible.
The bad news is that higher level dogs don’t necessarily give you lower level warnings before they launch an attack. Higher levels of resource guarding can be very challenging to modify. Meanwhile, the behavior presents an extremely high risk of injury to those around the dog, especially children.
A skilled and knowledgeable owner may be able to effectively modify food guarding behavior up to Level 4 or 5. Anything beyond that definitely begs the assistance of a qualified trainer or behaviorist. A person who is not confident about working with the dog’s behavior at lower levels, or who tries and does not make progress, should also seek professional help with the dog.
It can be a lot of work to manage and modify the behavior of a resource-guarder. You will have to:
• Manage the behavior through resource control unless and until the behavior has been completely and successfully modified. You must identify and remove all potential guarding triggers. Food bowls, even empty ones, should not be left lying on the floor. Stuffed Kongs, favorite toys, balls, pillows – anything that triggers even a mild possession response – needs to be put away, and given to the dog only in very controlled circumstances.
• Relocate the dog’s feeding area from a high traffic area to a low one to minimize risk. A dog regularly fed in the kitchen may guard the entire room. A dog fed on the back porch may guard the entire yard. Choose a little-used room, at least 10 feet wide, that visitors are not likely to stumble into, such as the basement office or the pantry.
• Spend two to four weeks preparing your dog for the program. Feed two to three times a day. Confine him away from the feeding area. Place the food bowl in the feeding room, bring the dog to the room, leave the room, and close the door until he has finished eating, up to 30 minutes.
• Attend a positive dog training class using a variety of desirable food treats as rewards. (Do not do this if your dog lunges aggressively for food in your hand). Be sure to let the trainer know that your dog is a resource-guarder.
• Implement a “Nothing in Life is Free” program, where the dog has to earn all good things. Have him sit or lie down in order to get anything he wants, including food, toys, attention, and going outside to play.
• Exercise him more. A tired dog is a well-behaved dog. Weather permitting, three to four 15-20 minute tongue-dragging sessions of fetch can work wonders in reducing inappropriate behaviors. Watch out for heat stroke; do not overdo exercise in hot weather. Spend more time with the dog in general, doing things that you both enjoy.
• Identify and avoid situations that trigger aggression.
• Teach the dog to “Give” on cue (see “Give-and-Take,” page 13).
• Avoid punishing the dog should a food-guarding or other aggressive incident occur.
• Implement a desensitization program (see sidebar, below) after two to four weeks of doing all of the above. This complete program can take four to eight months or longer.
The final outcome
Some dogs are successfully and completely rehabilitated through resource guarding modification programs, especially those who exhibit only the lower level behaviors. Many are not. There is a strong likelihood that you will always need to reinforce your resource guarder’s new nonguarding behavior, and avoid situations that could retrigger the guarding.
Because small children almost always come with food – cookies, crackers, etc. – and they are naturally closer to the dog’s own level, many prior resource guarders are never trustworthy around children. Of course, dogs and small children should never be left together unsupervised, but this goes far beyond that. Many families understandably choose to rehome their resource-guarding dogs rather than risk a serious bite. Of course, finding a good home for a dog with a history of aggression is yet another big challenge.
Rehabilitating a resource guarder can take a huge commitment of time, resources, and emotion. Throughout the program, you, other family members, and visitors to your home are at risk of being bitten if there are inadvertent slips in the program.
We applaud responsible dog owners who are willing to make the commitment required to change their dogs’ behaviors. We also urge them to think long and hard about their commitment and liablility, and to be realistic about whether they are able to do what it takes to ensure the safety of others during the process of reprogramming a resource-guarder. And we cheer when we receive reports from those who have been successful in getting their dogs to “share.”
Give-and-Take: A Good Game for ALL Dogs to Learn
You can help prevent resource guarding in a dog who does not display overt signs of the behavior by teaching him a give-and-take game. Note: Do not do this if your dog lunges and aggressively tries to grab treats out of your hand.
Start by offering him a toy that he likes (but is not extremely valuable to him). When he opens his mouth, say “Take It!” When he does, tell him he’s a good boy, then offer him a treat.
When he opens his mouth to take the treat and drops the toy, say “Give,” (or “Trade,” or “Share”) and let him nibble at the treat while you pick up the toy. The nibbling part is important. If you let him eat the treat and then try to pick up the toy he will race you for it, which may actually encourage resource guarding.
While he is nibbling, slowly and calmly pick up the toy. Let him finish eating the treat, then offer him the toy again and say “Take It!” as he puts his mouth around it.
Practiced several times a day, a few repetitions at a time, this game will teach your dog the very useful behavior of “Give” on cue. He will also learn that if he gives something up to you, odds are good that he’ll get it back again, or something even better.
Troubleshooting
If he won’t take the toy: Find a toy that he likes more. If he is only a mild resource guarder (Level 3 or 4) you can even use a toy such as a Kong with a cookie inside it. Use a low-value treat (a bland cookie or cracker) in the toy, and a much higher-value treat (a piece of cheese or roast beef) for his reward.
If he won’t drop the toy for the treat: You need a much better treat. Don’t be stingy here; hard dry cookies and bits of dog kibble just may not be exciting enough to convince him to give up a toy that he likes. Even the toughest nut will usually crack for something like a piece of sardine or a baby-food hot dog.
If after a couple of times he just looks for the treat and ignores the toy: Good! You’re convincing him that the stuff you have is better than the stuff he has. That’s what you want him to think. You can either plan to do just a few repetitions each session, or you can gradually increase the value of the object he shares with you.
Once your dog has learned to play the give-and-take game, you can use it for objects other than toys. When he grabs something he shouldn’t have, such as your new Nikes or the remote control, instead of playing the “Chase” game, go get a nice treat and ask him to share. He should be happy to trade.
If your dog won’t trade you his object for the treat in your hand, or worse, starts to guard it aggressively, drop high-value treats on the ground in a trail that leads away from the object. When he drops it to follow the treat trail, wait until he is far away from it and have someone else pick it up, or leave him a large pile of treats and calmly walk back to the object and pick it up yourself. If necessary, Hansel-and-Gretel him with a treat trail into another room and close the door before you pick it up. Then reevaluate your training program to figure out where you went wrong, and consider calling in a professional to help you.
Paws rushes to take a toy. Don’t use your dog’s favorite toy at first. He should want it, but not be obsessed with it.After just a couple of treats, Paws readily drops the ball for a treat. He doesn’t mind Sandi’s reach for the ball.After more repetitions, Paws doesn’t want the toy at all. That’s fine! He should anticipate rewards for sharing.
Food Bowl Desensitization
This program can take four to eight months (or longer) to rehabilitate a serious food-guarder – and even then, your dog may never become completely trustworthy. If at any point you are fearful or feel inadequate to deal with the dog, call a qualified positive professional trainer or behaviorist. This program should be implemented only by adults or very responsible older teens. Do not move to the next phase before the minimum time indicated, or before the dog’s demeanor is perfectly calm at the previous phase. Also, keep in mind that following the program outlined below does not guarantee your safety.
Phase 1: No bowl (one to two weeks)
Place the dog’s daily meal in a bowl on a counter or shelf in his feeding room. Include some high-value treats as part of the meal. Schedule several feeding sessions throughout the day. Feed him one-quarter to one-tenth of his day’s ration in each session, a piece at a time, by hand. If he lunges aggressively at your hand while feeding, tether him and feed him his meals, a piece at a time, by tossing them from just out of lunging reach. Wait until he is sitting quietly each time to toss him another piece.
Phase 2: Empty bowl, single pieces (two to four weeks)
As he progresses, the dog’s expression should change from vigilant to relaxed.
Schedule several feeding sessions throughout the day. Place the dog’s daily meal in a bowl on a counter or shelf in his feeding room. Place his empty bowl on the ground at your feet. Alternate between feeding him several pieces from your hand, a piece at a time, and dropping several pieces of food, a piece at a time, into his food bowl from waist height. Wait until he has finished each piece before dropping the next.
Phase 3: Empty bowl, multiple pieces (two to four weeks)
During several feeding sessions throughout the day, place the dog’s daily meal in a bowl on a counter or shelf in his feeding room. Place his empty bowl on the ground at your feet. Drop several pieces of food into his food bowl and wait until he has finished them. Then feed him several pieces, one at a time, from your hand. Now drop several more pieces into his bowl. While he is eating those, drop more treats, one at a time, into his bowl from waist height.
Phase 4: Two partial bowls (two to four weeks)
Again, schedule several feedings throughout the day, and place the dog’s meal in a bowl on a counter or shelf in his feeding room. Put a handful of food in each of two bowls and place one bowl on the floor. Put lower-value food into the bowls; save the higher-value food for treat dropping. If you cannot safely put down the bowl in your dog’s presence, tether him, put him on a sit-stay, or shut him out of the room while you put the bowl down.
While he is eating from the first bowl, place the second bowl on the floor a safe distance away. “Safe” will depend on your dog, and could be as much as 10-15 feet or more. Err on the side of caution. Return to the first bowl and drop treats into it as he continues to eat.
When he has finished the first bowl, stop dropping treats and direct him to the second bowl. While he is eating from the second bowl, return to the first bowl and pick it up. Continue to drop treats into the bowl from which he is eating.
Over the two to four weeks of this phase, very gradually – a few inches at a time – place the bowls closer and closer together. Watch for signs of tension or aggression. If you see any, you have closed the distance too quickly; go back to the distance between bowls where he was relaxed and work at that distance for several days before moving the bowls closer together again.
Phase 5: Several partial bowls (two to four weeks)
Repeat the previous phase, using several bowls (up to six). You can prepare all the bowls at the same time and set them on the counter, but place them on the floor one at a time, while he is eating from the first bowl. Continue to drop treats into the bowl he is eating from, and occasionally pick up an empty one that is a safe distance from the dog. During this phase, reduce the number of meals to two or three. Also look for opportunities outside of feeding time to drop treats near the dog when he is in possession of other reasonably valuable items.
Phase 6: Calling the dog (two to four weeks)
Repeat Phase 5, except try to call the dog to you from a distance of six to eight feet just as he finishes the food in a bowl. Have the other bowls set out so he must pass you to go to another bowl. Be sure to give him a very high value treat when he comes to you. Gradually start asking him to come to you before he finishes the food in the bowl – first, when he is almost done, then when there is more and more left. As long as he stays relaxed, gradually move closer to the food bowl he is eating from before you call him.
Practice this phase for at least one full week before moving closer to him. Also, look for opportunities outside of feeding time to call him to you to feed him high value treats when he is in possession of other reasonably valuable items.
Phase 7: Adding people (two to six weeks)
Starting back at Phase 1, have a second person repeat the exercises. This should be another person who is close to the dog, not a child, and not a stranger. Have the person move through the phases, spending up to a week at each phase or longer if necessary. If he is doing well with a second person, add a third, then a fourth. Be sure to use people who are well-educated as to their training duties, and able to follow directions.
Phase 8: Coming out of the closet (two to six weeks, for the rest of the dog’s life)
Again, starting back at Phase 1, move the food bowl exercises out of the dog’s feeding room into other areas of the house: the kitchen, the dining room, the den, etc. Assuming the training has been progressing well, you should be able to move through the phases relatively quickly. Continue to look for other real-life resource-relevant opportunities to reinforce the message that your presence means more good stuff. Remember that, depending on the success of your desensitization program, your resource-guarding dog may never be totally reliable in the presence of valuable items. For the rest of your dog’s life, always be aware of the environment and be prepared to intervene if there is a potential risk.
I took my two dogs—Woody, age 9, and Boone, age 3—to see their vet a week ago. I wasn’t looking forward to being chided for allowing him—nay, facilitating him—to gain a few extra pounds this winter. But I wasn’t at all expecting the health problems that my vet found.
