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Caring For An Older Dog With Osteoarthritis

Recently I witnessed an intriguing “conversation” that took place on an Internet bulletin board between two owners of older dogs. One of the individuals inadvertently started a small fracas when she characterized her seven-year-old Great Dane as old.

“What are you talking about?” demanded another party to the discussion. “I have an 11-years-young Dane who is just as active and healthy as ever. How is your dog bred? If your dog looks old at seven, I’d like to avoid that particular line of dogs!”

Older Dogs

To serious dog breeders, a denigrating comment about a dog’s breeding is “fighting words!” But the owner of the seven-year-old dog calmly resisted the bait, and made a wise and notable point in her reply:

“My dog is just as active and healthy as ever, too,” she wrote. “But I’m not ‘in denial’ about his age. By recognizing that his needs are changing as he gets older, I can tailor his diet, exercise, and care to maximize his longevity.”

Granted, a breeder who has produced a Dane that lives to be 11, without exhibiting overt signs of old age, is to be commended. However, of the two people in the discussion I observed, the owner of the seven-year-old is the sagacious one. She has realized that if you are alert to the signs of aging in your dog – to a certain extent – they can be headed off at the pass. In fact, failing to “see” signs of aging puts a dog at a higher risk of succumbing to a whole range of age-related illnesses.

Common conditions
The onset of “old age” in dogs varies by breed and size, but generally, the larger the dog, the fewer years it takes for him or her to appear geriatric. This is the average scenario, however; disease, stress, inadequate nutrition, and indifferent care can cause premature aging, as well as hasten the end of the dog’s life.

Fortunately for us canine caretakers, the conditions that plague older dogs are fairly easy to observe – if you know what you are looking for. Most are also easy to treat, as long as you are willing to make some changes in your dog-care plan.

Over the next few months, WDJ will discuss some of the most common health problems of the older dog, along with some common-sense treatments for them. This month, we’ll look at one of the classic diseases of aging dogs: osteoarthritis or degenerative joint disease.

Common but cruel
Osteoarthritis is a degenerative joint disease in which the cartilage that covers the ends of bones in the joint deteriorates, causing pain and loss of movement as bone begins to rub against bone. The chronic inflammation causes deterioration of the joint and the pain and limited movement.

A dog with osteoarthritis is typically stiff in the morning and after naps. He will usually “warm” out of it as he gets up and walks around a little, though cold, damp weather can temporarily cripple him with pain.

These are classic symptoms of a fairly common disease, however, a veterinarian’s opinion should be sought before you begin any course of home treatments for the condition. Dogs with other reversible diseases can also exhibit these symptoms, and if you automatically treated the dog for arthritis when he, in fact, had something else, you’d have wasted the best (i.e. the earliest) opportunity to treat his real illness.

Treatments
One of the first considerations is reducing the dog’s pain. A dog that is too sore to exercise often gains weight (which aggravates the arthritis) and becomes depressed (which makes him more reluctant to exercise). These dogs need to exercise to both prevent excessive weight gain and to maintain muscle strength.

Buffered aspirin is often given to dogs with osteoarthritis. Aspirin is considered the most effective and safest drug for relieving some of the dog’s pain. Like all drugs, it’s not without potential for side effects. Some dogs who have been given aspirin for long periods of time or in high doses may develop gastrointestinal bleeding or ulcers. Using buffered aspirin can help prevent this.

Most other herbal and nutritional treatments for this disease are focused on reducing the inflammation that causes pain.

For humans with osteoarthritis, the new generations of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) have been highly effective in reducing inflammation, and thus, reducing pain. However, they have not been shown to be as effective in dogs; aspirin is still the veterinarian’s treatment of choice.

“Neutraceuticals”
In recent years, glucosamine sulfate and chondroitin sulfate have emerged as the most highly touted arthritis “cures.” Some human arthritis patients swear by these supplements; some report no benefits at all.

Countless medical breakthroughs have emerged from the following model: As medical researchers learn about the role of any chemical component of the healthy and diseased human body, their first step is often to replicate any substance that they discover to play a role in a disease process. Then they supplement a diseased person with the substance, to see whether added amounts of the substance will slow or stop the disease. That’s how these substances made their way to the marketplace.

Glucosamine is naturally produced by the body, and plays an important role in the repair and maintenance of articular cartilage. Manufactured glucosamine sulfate and chondroitin sulfate are artificially synthesized salts of glucosamine. In the short term, these substances seem to stimulate the cartilage cells to rebuild themselves, rather than degrade as a result of the osteoarthritis process. Long-term studies have not demonstrated the substances’ ability to control the osteoarthritis disease process.

Cosequin is the best-known supplement for dogs that contains both glucosamine sulfate and chondroitin sulfate; it also contains vitamin C and manganese, and is available only through veterinarians. (For more information, call Nutramax Laboratories, 800-925-5187.) There are also a plethora of other manufacturers of the substances; any health food store’s shelves will be full of these products. One advantage of Cosequin is not having to guess at dosages.

Adequan (polysulfated glycoseaminoglycan) is another commercial form of glucosamine, but is injected rather than fed. It is theorized that this artificial cartilage matrix substance deposits in the various joints of the body and replacing the cartilage in the arthritic joint and thickening the fluid surrounding the joint. Adequan has been approved by the FDA for use in horses, but is still unapproved for use in dogs; nevertheless, it’s used on dogs daily. The maker (Luitpold Pharmaceuticals, 800-458-0163) expects to have FDA approval soon.

Nutritional supplements
In recent years, a number of nutritional supplements have been used to treat arthritis with some success. Perhaps the most exciting is vitamin C. We’ve seen great results from vitamin C supplements of 500 to 2,000 mg. per day, depending on the dog’s size.

Vitamin C is often combined with other nutrients in “arthritis” formulas. One such mix is “ACA,” which contains pure ground alfalfa leaf – another traditional herbal remedy for arthritis), vitamin C, selenium, vitamin E, and chromium (available from The Natural Pet Care Catalog, 800-962-8266).

Another supplement formulated specifically for arthritic conditions is “Winston’s Joint Formula,” made by Winston’s Best (310-277-6120). This contains vitamin C along with a plethora of other nutrients, including shark cartilage (thought to help rebuild the dog’s cartilage), and bromelain (taken from pineapple enzyme and meant to replicate a collagen structural protein).

Fresh or dried alfalfa can also be used to promote healthier joints. Willow is a natural pain reliever, and taken as an infused tea internally mixed with alfalfa and burdock, provides pain relief. Fresh garlic seems to help many canine arthritis patients; chop 1/2 to three cloves (depending on the dog’s size) into his food.

Dog keeping strategies
There are a number of things you can around the house to make your arthritic dog more comfortable. For instance, using a raised feeding stand can keep a dog from having to bend down to eat. Dogs that are having trouble negotiating stairs would probably appreciate ramps where it is possible and feasible to build one. If the dog lives outside, providing an exceptionally warm place for him to sleep, well off the ground, will help him from waking up sore every day.

Giving the dog the thickest, softest bedding available will help also him as much as it would a human. Ideally, use a bed with thick “egg crate” foam, which will help distribute his weight evenly on the bed and reduce pressure on any individual joints. The thickest foam dog bed we’ve seen is the “Super Deluxe Bed’ from the Drs. Foster & Smith catalog (800-826-7206).

Another item which seems to have a growing number of proponents is the Nikken Magnetic Pet Pad (Kenko PetPad). Theoretically, magnets ease arthritis pain by properly “polarizing” the dog’s own magnetic field. Nikken is a multi-level marketing company (see “Multi-Level Marketing Mysteries, May 1998, WDJ), but we know two representatives who promise not to try to sell you anything other than what you express interest in: Mary Ann Land, 612-494-9732, and Edith Montoya, 888-841-6073.

Finally, touch therapies can soothe the achy muscles the dog may suffer from altering his gait and movement in an effort to escape the aches from his joints. (See “A Touch Should Do It,” July 1998 WDJ for TTouch, massage, and acupressure resources.) Acupuncture, too, has been shown to be helpful in relieving the pain and stress of arthritis. For a local acupuncturist, call the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society at 303-258-3767.

The Best Dog Food Bowls

Consider your dog’s dinnerware, a topic more complicated than you might have thought.

A visit to your local pet superstore, for example, will reveal dozens of choices, in plastic, stainless steel, glass, nylon, ceramic, and possibly aluminum. Among them are many simple, practical and economical models, meant for long-term everyday use, which are the focus of this article.

Of course, bowls also come in a million different “specialty” models – to feed automatically, repel ants, resist spilling, fold up for travel, and so on. But in essence, dog bowls function in pretty much the same manner: they hold food or water. You can spend a few dollars on a practical stainless steel model, or a few hundred for a kidney-shaped granite job with legs. What’s most important, however, is not what they look like or how much they cost, but whether they contain that food and water without contaminating it with any chemicals of their own!

Many people are unaware that certain types of dog dishes (and people dishes!) are capable of leaching dangerous substances into the foods and liquids that fill them. Concerns have been emerging for some time, for instance, about the use of aluminum cookware, and the possibility of lead poisoning from unsafe pottery glazes. Some experts believe that carcinogenic substances can seep out of plastic dishes, too.

But there are so many attractive, inexpensive, and perfectly safe products on the market – including products made for humans – that there is really no reason to take a chance with your dogs. After all, they might use the same dishes day-in and day-out throughout their lifetimes.

Purpose-Built Dog Food Bowls

If you’re like many dog owners, you feed and water your dog in dishes culled from your own supply of culinary containers. Recently, after visiting the kitchens of a number of dog owners, WDJ came home with some interesting data: most used vessels unintended for the purpose. Some of the dishes were perfectly safe, but we also found among these ad hoc substitutions a cheap aluminum two-quart pot, a chipped glass bowl, a variety of plastics, and a pretty (but possibly dangerous) ceramic dish purchased in a Mexican street market. In every case, we were told those dishes were “temporary situations” whose permanent solutions hadn’t yet made it to the top of the agenda.

We have no problem with using safe “people” dishes, even permanently, but think about it! Using cast-off dishes that aren’t safe for people is even less safe for our dogs, who may be exposed to far more toxins in their short lives than we are!

NOT RECOMMENDED:

Foreign-Made or Old Ceramic Dishes

There are a lot of pretty bowls in the world, and some that are painted and sold for use by dogs are too cute for words. But if you don’t know how or where they were made, it’s best not to use them.

The reason is that ceramic glazes contain lead, which can leach into food and water. Lead is a highly potent toxin that accumulates in the body – once in, it can not be gotten rid of easily or inexpensively. Prevention is the only realistic “cure” for lead poisoning.

Exposure to lead can cause a multitude of health problems, including brain and organ damage, impaired vision and hearing, stunted growth, impaired motor function, cancer, and reproductive complications. The smaller the dog, the more this toxicity is magnified.

In the U.S., manufacturers have been required since 1971 to fire pottery at temperatures high enough (in theory) to make glazing safe – that is, impervious to surface degradation. However, the FDA tests only a small percentage of imported pottery. In reality, a consumer has no way of knowing whether a dish was fired at temperatures adequate to prevent seepage. While the only way to know for sure that a dish will not leach lead is to have it tested, the following cautions should be observed:

• Use only stoneware or porcelain products, both of which are fired at extremely high temperatures.
• Not many people feed their dogs on old, fine china, but if you do – stop! These heirlooms were made before lead was recognized as a hazard.
• Use only those ceramics, foreign or otherwise, which are certified safe. It is important to note, however, that repeated washing and scrubbing can cause glazes to deteriorate; again, this seems to be most common with earthenware, not with properly fired stoneware of porcelain. If a dish’s glaze is corroded, or develops a dusty, chalky gray residue after washing, stop using it at once! The residue is characteristic of a faulty glaze, and it could be very dangerous.

• Avoid dishes with raised decorations on the interior surfaces of the dish. Glazes might not cover all of a textured surface.
• If you suspect your dog has been exposed to lead, ask your veterinarian for a blood test immediately. Chelation therapy can diminish the amount of lead your dog has already accumulated, though the procedure is expensive and difficult. Alternatively, a veterinarian may prescribe a course of action to reduce its effects. For instance, nutritional deficiencies can exacerbate lead poisoning, so a dog that has been exposed to lead would benefit from regular vitamin and mineral supplementation.
• If you are sentimentally attached to ceramic pet dish of questionable origin, you can have it tested at a laboratory, though this can cost anywhere between $35 and $80. Or, you can use a home-test kit. LeadCheck Swabs are available for about $8. Note that these swabs don’t test whether lead is present in the dish, but whether lead is leaching from the dish at the time of testing.

ALSO NOT RECOMMENDED:

Aluminum Dishes

Aluminum is a neurotoxin that can cause cognitive dysfunction and bone damage. Studies have shown that aluminum migrates or leaches into food, though exactly how much is a matter of dispute. Anodized aluminum, as used in high-quality expensive cookware, is thought to lessen or eliminate this interaction with food; this too is a matter of dispute. However, pet dishes made of aluminum are not anodized.

Plastic Dishes

Plastics used in food storage and preparation are an increasingly controversial topic. Plastics can contain a number of substances, such as formaldehyde, chlorine, and resins known to be carcinogenic (cancer-causing). Among these are polyvinyl chloride and polyethylene, which have been shown to migrate into food at high temperatures, such as those produced by microwave ovens.

To prevent this, don’t use plastic dishes if you are in the habit of warming your dog’s food in a microwave, or if you pour very hot water over his kibble a few minutes prior to serving it to him.

If your dog is apt to chew on plastic, or has ever gnawed on the edge of his plastic bowl, you should probably replace his dinnerware with something he can’t chew. Even if the chemicals in the plastic prove to be harmless, ingesting chunks of sharp-edged plastic could be fatal.

Dirty Dishes

These come in every size, color, and description, and they can be as dangerous as any carcinogen. Unless you routinely wash (with hot water and detergent) and thoroughly air-dry your dog’s food and water dish, these containers may provide an ideal site for the growth of harmful bacteria, which can cause mild or severe gastrointestinal upset and even lethal food poisoning.

As far as the food bowl goes, this risk is not great if you feed your dog nothing but dry kibble every day, but it is magnified greatly if you feed your dog raw meats and table scraps. In that case, you MUST wash his bowls daily to prevent harmful bacteria from gaining a foothold in your kitchen. It is wise to rotate water bowls, so one can air-dry while another is in use. Bacteria doesn’t grow in the absence of moisture.

So, look at your dog’s bowls. Are they covered with bits and chunks of old food? Coated with a greasy film? Is there slime growing in the water bowl? . . . Has your dog’s stomach been upset lately?

WDJ RECOMMENDATIONS:

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel, without doubt, is the number one choice of most professional dog breeders and handlers. It is safe, inexpensive, comes in a variety of sizes and shapes, and is also extremely durable and easy to clean. Stainless steel does not interact with food or water, and dogs can’t chew on it. Most pet stores and pet supply catalogs sell stainless steel dishes in a wide variety of sizes, for less than $15.

Glass

This material is a very minor player in the dog bowl trade. We include it because all of us sometimes feed and water our pets with whatever is handy, and if you must use a cast-off, glass is one of the kitchen’s safest materials – as long as it is not cracked or chipped. (If you were in the habit of licking your bowls as clean as dogs do, you’d understand.) From personal experience, however, I must add that any breakable dish that is regularly left on a kitchen floor will get broken. Call it Govier’s Law, if you will – just don’t call my dogs late for dinner.

Roger Govier is a freelance writer. He lives in San Francisco with two mixed-breed dogs.

Car Safety for Canines

There are seat belt laws in most states now, and young children are legally required to be restrained in safety seats in cars in all states. But nowhere is there a law requiring dogs to be safely contained in vehicles.

Those that do only address restraint for dogs in the back of open pick-up trucks. (And even when dogs are safely restrained in the back of a truck, the potential for the dog to be severely injured in an accident is great. The risk of damage to eyes from flying debris, the discomfort from exposure to the elements, and the encouragement of aggressive dog behavior, and the real possibility of jumping or falling from trucks are other good reasons not to allow your dog to ride in the back of trucks.)

We do believe, however, that dogs inside vehicles should be restrained, for their own safety as well as that of other passengers. Unrestrained, an excited or frightened dog can interfere with your driving, causing a serious accident. But even the best-behaved dogs can be violently thrown into the seat in front of them, or, worse, into or through the windshield in an accident.

If dog and passengers survive impact, a panicky dog can escape through broken car windows and become an instant traffic hazard. In fact, my brother lost his Australian shepherd in an accident when, panicked in the confusion, she leaped through a shattered windshield and was struck and killed by an oncoming car.

Crating is one solution, but many cars are too small to accommodate a portable kennel. A reasonable alternative is a restraint system that holds your dog securely in place. There are two basic types: the canine safety harness, and the canine car seat.

Please note: All these systems utilize car seat belts. In many of today’s cars, the front seat belts (and some rear belts) only tighten on impact; during normal travel they expand to allow for passenger comfort. In order to securely fasten any canine restraint system, you may have to use a rear, solid belt or come up with an alternate strap around the front seat to provide a stable base for the attachment. Unless you are mechanically proficient, we would recommend having a solid seat belt installed by a professional.

There are at least a half-dozen different brands of canine safety harnesses on the market. Each consists of a body harness that attaches to the car seat belt. Important criteria to consider are: strength and durability of straps and hardware, comfort, cost, and ease of use. WDJ tested three brands of canine car safety harnesses.

Safety Harnesses

WDJ Recommends
Four Paws’ Pet Safety Sitter:

This is WDJ’s top choice of the restraint products we reviewed. It is well made, with strong, soft, double-stitched nylon and sturdy hardware. The instructions are clear and well-illustrated, and the harness is relatively easy to use.

Best of all, our test dog found it comfortable, and liked the amount of freedom that it provided her in the car. An added feature is the sturdy metal ring stitched into the back of the harness that you can clip a leash to so it doubles as a walking harness.

The Pet Safety Sitter is available for about $12 through pet stores, or from Four Paws Products, Ltd. in Hauppage, NY; (516) 434-1100.

Guardian Pet Specialties’
Pet Safe-T-Belt

For reasons detailed below, this product is our second pick.

The most expensive of the three harnesses we tested, the Pet Safe-T-Belt is also the sturdiest. Consisting of a body harness, frame attachment, and front seat strap, it comes in four sizes and ranges in price from $29.95 for toy dogs (3-7 lbs.), to $44.95 for large breeds (51-100 lbs.). It is completely adjustable, and made of strong, soft nylon, with stitching and fasteners on the outside, away from contact with the pet, to minimize rubbing. It is a bit complicated to assemble and install.

While exceptionally secure, the dual-sided-restraint design caused our test dog some anxiety by unduly restricting her movement. This is a good choice for owners who want a high-end sturdy product and are willing to help their dogs adjust to the high level of restraint that it offers.

The Pet Safe-T-Belt can be ordered from Guardian Pet Specialties, (709) 745-3308.

Not Recommended
Top Paws’ Safe N-Go

In stark contrast to the Pet Safe-T-Belt, this harness is obviously a low-end product. The nylon is narrow, stiff, and the plastic snaps and metal hardware are cheap. The packaging doesn’t indicate which size harness is contained inside, and the instructions for use are cryptic, ungrammatical and hard to follow. The Safe N-Go is available for around $12 at pet stores, but don’t look too hard – WDJ gives it an emphatic “paws down.”

 

———-

Canine Car Seats
The selection among canine car seats is limited at best. We evaluated three, the largest of which could only accommodate dogs up to 30 pounds. All three retail in the $50 range. For small dogs the car seat can provide an effective restraint system, but it is not an option for larger dogs.

WDJ Recommends
The Dog-Gone Device:

If car safety for your dog is your main concern, we recommend the Four Paws Pet Safety Sitter, mentioned above. However, if you have a small dog (20 pounds or less), and like to carry your dog as much as drive him or her around, this carrier is for you.

The Dog-Gone is primarily a backpack-style animal carrier that doubles as a car seat. Its adjustable mesh fabric pouch is attached to a lightweight frame. Four restraint loops hold the dog’s collar as the dog sits in an upright position, and an extending leg allows the device to stand on its own – that is, as long as the dog is sitting still.

No installation is required; the carrier is simply placed on the seat of the car and strapped in by the seat belt around it. A seat belt that stays tight is mandatory to keep the carrier from tipping over when you brake. The Dog-Gone Device might be a kick for owners who want to take their little dogs with them for errands or other short trips, but don’t want to travel at a little dog’s pace. Hiking, biking or shopping, your canine companion can watch the world go by from her perch on your back.

But as a car seat only, it leaves room for improvement. The dog is held upright and can’t lie down. We would only recommend it as a car seat for short trips. Any dog would find it too confining for longer drives. The Dog-Gone Device retails for $59.95. An optional head cover for shade is $14.95. Both can be obtained from Sanjo, Inc., Pet Products in Las Vegas, at (800) 367-7303.

Not Recommended
Foster & Smith’s ComfortRide Pet Seat

The ComfortRide is a flat, molded plastic, padded seat frame that attaches to the car seat belt. Nylon straps attached to the sturdy frame clip to the dog’s collar. It is compact, lightweight, easy to install, and will hold dogs up to 30 pounds. At $49.99, it has the lowest retail price of the three. Although it is well-made and able to accommodate larger dogs, the ComfortRide Pet Seat relies on restraint via the dog’s collar, which could result in serious damage to the dog’s neck in an accident.

Other Products
We found several other products that were essentially modified leashes, intended to be used with a dog’s usual harness or collar. Please note: WDJ does not recommend attaching a vehicle restraint strap to your dog’s collar as the primary means of restraint.

Although this would work to keep him contained during normal travel, in an accident the force of impact could damage the dog’s trachea, injure the spine, perhaps even break his neck. For just a few dollars more you can purchase the Pet Safety Sitter, and know that your dog is safely and securely restrained in your car.

-By Pat Miller

Pat Miller is a dog trainer and freelance writer from Salinas, CA.

Properly Crate Training Your Dog

1

[Updated October 3, 2017]

Crates are perhaps second only to choke collars as the most misused training equipment forced upon dogs. However, unlike choke collars, there is a terrific training principle behind the use of crates.

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

crate training a dog

But before I tell you how to help your dog learn these skills, let me say what crates should not be used for.

What Dog Crates are NOT For

They are not for punishing your dog for doing something wrong; if used in this way, the dog will quickly learn to avoid ever going in the crate, or how to be as obnoxious as possible in order to get let out.

They are not for “warehousing” a number of dogs, so you don’t have too many underfoot. I have to say that breeders abuse the use of crates more than all other dog owners. You often see breeders who don’t actually want to live with the dogs they breed and raise; they use crates to contain their “merchandise,” keep it out of the way until it’s ready to sell. This is in itself objectionable, even more so when they force this prison concept of the crate upon the people who buy their dogs and puppies. I can’t tell you how many people I’ve spoken to who faithfully lock their perfectly well-behaved dogs in crates for hours every day because the breeder they bought the dog from told them they had to.

Puppies are Babies

Crates are also not for keeping puppies out of trouble all day. Puppies are just like babies; they need to be watched every minute, and few puppy owners seem to understand this. People make arrangements for their new babies to be supervised when they are at work or school or going to the movies and so on; they have to learn to do the same with puppies.

Recently, I was talking about this to a dog trainer friend from Manhattan. She was discussing this with a number of students in a dog training class, and several people were having trouble accepting it. Finally, frustrated, she told them, “Look, I’m sorry, I must end the class now, because my two-year-old daughter is at home on her own and I’ve been away for several hours, so I should get back and see how she is.” Everyone went, “WHAT?” And she said, “See? Actually, I don’t have a child, but you accept that you can’t leave one kind of baby alone; why is it any less dangerous or cruel to abandon another one?”

When the puppy gets older, say, six to 12 months old, you can begin leaving it for longer periods of time. However, you can’t just go out the door and hope for the best. You have to teach your puppy how to cope with short-term close confinement, and later, with long-term confinement.

Simply stated, crates are not for long-term close confinement of puppies or adult dogs. They are too small; any animal suffers when it is forced to stay that closely confined for more than a few hours.

Long-Term Dog Confinement

Until your new dog is house-trained, you can’t give it the run of the house all day while you are at work – it would get into trouble – but you can’t put it in the crate, either.

In my opinion, you can view each mistake a dog makes while you’re gone all day as 20 mistakes, because one puddle, or one little chew, sets the precedent for many other mistakes. And when the dog’s bladder and teeth get bigger, and bigger mistakes are made, the dog will be put outside, where it will then learn to dig and bark, and then the neighbors will complain, and then it goes into the garage as a temporary stop, before it goes to the humane society to play the Lotto of life, where only one out of eight dogs win.

So, instead, when you’re away from home, you use long-term confinement to keep him or her out of trouble. The most suitable place for teaching long-term confinement would be a bathroom, one with all the toilet paper, towels, shower curtains, and carpets removed. You’d leave only a few things in there: the dog’s bed (which could be a cozy blanket placed in a crate with the door open), an adequate supply of water, some safe hollow chew toys which are stuffed with food treats, and the dog’s toilet. For the latter, I suggest something like two short rolls of turf on a sheet of plastic. The benefit of this, rather than those commercial puppy pads, is the dog will train itself to urinate on turf or dirt.

If your new dog is extremely anxious, and it takes desperate measures to escape, such as tearing the bathroom door apart, you can’t use this method. You will need to consult a professional for advice on dealing with about extreme separation anxiety.

The long-term confinement method is a temporary measure, only meant to keep your new dog out of trouble until you have the time to potty- and house-train it.

Crates for “Potty Training”

All right. Back to what crates are for! The first proper use of a crate, as I said, is for teaching a puppy or dog to eliminate only when and where it is appropriate.

You can teach this to an adult dog within three days. This is something we did with the San Francisco SPCA in the mid-1980s, when I started the animal behavior program there. We taught the volunteers how to take home dogs that weren’t house-trained and house-train them using the umbilical cord method, where the dog is tied to your waist, so you can watch it every second. Then, every hour on the hour you take it outside, to the place where you want it to eliminate. When they do, you give them three liver treats, take them back inside, and let them off the leash for a little while. If they do not eliminate, they do not get a treat, and they go back inside still on the leash. By four days of this, there were no longer any mistakes; the dog thoroughly wants to use its dog toilet.

Puppies may or may not take a little longer to potty-train. Your consistency will make all the difference.

When at home, confine the puppy all the time that you can not watch it 110 percent. Few dogs or puppies will soil their bedrooms unless they are really desperate; don’t keep the puppy (or a dog, for that matter) in there long enough to get desperate.

Every hour on the hour, release the puppy, saying, “Let’s go potty!” and run with it to its doggie toilet. (Running is helpful because you don’t want an accident to happen on the way to the toilet, and because running “jiggles” its bladder and bowels.) Most puppies will urinate within two minutes. If it does, give it three liver treats, and go back in the house. By doing this, you actually give the puppy the desire to wait until you come home and take it outside to eliminate, because that’s the only time it can cash in its urine and feces for liver treats.

Once it has eliminated, then you can take it back into the house and turn it loose, where your empty puppy can spend some time exploring the house under supervision. Then you’ve only got to watch that it doesn’t chew the wrong things! After an hour or so, put it back into the crate, and start the process over again.

However, if it doesn’t eliminate, it goes back in the crate for another hour, and you start over again.

House-Training Your Dog

“Potty-training” is what most people are worried about, of course, but what I call “house-training” is just as important, and, fortunately, it’s a nice side-effect of crate-training. In just a matter of days, the dog will learn that every time he is confined, he gets to chew on toys, and soon, he’ll become addicted to chewing toys. That means he won’t destroy the rest of your house, and it mean he won’t become a recreational barker. He’ll still alert when the doorbell rings, but recreational chewers almost never become one of those annoying chronic barkers.

The dog will also self-train itself to settle down and to enjoy time spent when at home alone. After a week or two of this procedure, the adult dog can safely enjoy the full run of his home for the rest of his life. Again, I do not advise that puppies are left alone – for any length of time – until they are at least 12 amonths old.

Crate-Training Mistakes

The most common mistake I see people making with their crates is using it as a prison, or shoving the dog into the crate when he’s been “bad.” That’s the very best way to teach him to avoid going into the crate at any time.

Instead, a dog should regard the crate as his play room, his doggie den. Confining a dog or puppy to a crate should be on par with confining your child to a room with a TV and VCR, a Sega, and a ton of toys. This is a simple thing to teach puppies. When a puppy is tired and hungry, you put him in the crate along with his dinner and some toys, and you leave him there. He’ll eat his dinner and fall asleep.

If someone has taught an adult dog to have apprehensions about the crate, though, it will probably take at least a few days to overcome them. The process here will be a little different; he’ll need additional time to get over his anxiety that he will be locked and trapped in the crate. While you are trying to convince him of this, don’t lock and trap him in the crate!

Dog Training Theory

The point of “training” is to make the dog want to do what you want it to do. If your dog doesn’t want to be in the crate – if he has only unpleasant associations with it – use your head. How can you make a dog want to be in the crate? Food is one way.

First, I would always feed this dog in his crate, and make the most of his daily ration by feeding it to him in numerous courses – as many as a dozen, even. I’d put a little food in the crate, let him go in and eat it, and then let him out right after he’s finished. I’d also make the final course of the day a big one, mixing his kibble with some juicy canned food. Put the bowl in the crate and then shut the door, with the dog on the outside, and let the dog think about this for a while. After a minute, he’ll be saying, “Hey! Open the crate door! Let me in!” This is what training is all about. When your dog is pleading to get in its crate, let it in!

Here’s another tactic. Throw a bit of kibble in the crate. Let him go in and get it; he’ll come right out again. Do this three or four times. Then, throw a bit of kibble in, and when he goes in to get it, shut the door and immediately feed him another couple of bits of kibble through the bars. Then, let him out, and ignore him for three minutes. Then, put a bit of kibble in the crate, shut the door, feed him five bits of kibble through the bars, and then let him out and ignore him for five minutes.

The next time, put a bunch of kibble in a Kong toy, along with some freeze-dried liver and a bit of honey in the Kong, so it is difficult to get the food out, and put the Kong in the crate. Let the dog in and shut the door. Before he’s finished trying to get all the food out, after about 10 minutes, open the door, let him out, take the Kong away, and ignore him for five minutes.

What is the dog learning? “When I’m in the crate, my owner talks to me all the time, she sits next to me and reads me a book, and keeps feeding me. And there are toys in the crate. There are no toys anywhere else – that crate is OK!”

If a dog is expressing dissatisfaction with its lot, you haven’t really done your job as a trainer to teach him to want to do what you want him to do.

Every dog develops favorite places to lie down. If you’ve crate-trained your dog properly, that favorite place will be in the crate with the door open. If the dog goes there of his own accord, it’s a good sign that you have done a good job as a trainer.

Dr. Dunbar is the founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, the creator of the K9 Games, and is best known for his SIRIUS Puppy Training program.

Corner Book Review

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Mother Knows Best:
The Natural Way to Train Your Dog

By Carol Lea Benjamin
Published by Howell Book House
Hardcover, 256 pages, $22.95

Mother Knows Best takes a pack leader approach to dog management and training, comparing a trainer’s body language and physical corrections with observations on how mother dogs similarly train their puppies. Benjamin, a dog trainer, emphasizes the importance of social structure in a dog’s environment, and suggests that because mother is so successful a teacher in Nature, a training regimen that imitates this natural learning will also succeed in owner/dog relationships.

While there is some good information in the book, Benjamin considers only force-based methods to be useful. She scoffs at the use of food in training, which progressive trainers today are finding highly effective. But she ignores the danger of some force-based methods, such as a “collar shake” and face-to-face “assertive stare,” that can result in serious bites to the face when applied to a dominant or aggressive dog.

Don’t be fooled by the words “Mother” and “Nature” in the book’s title. There are far better books available, based on a true understanding of canine behavior, that can help owners train their dogs using humane, positive methods that will encourage a close emotional bond and relationship based on mutual respect, rather than threatening to destroy the trust that we treasure in our dogs.

Training Larger Dogs Using Positive Methods

A holistic pet behavior counselor often has to be like a detective. You have to find all of the missing pieces of the puzzle and put them together to form a complete picture. Sometimes this is not easy because people are not accustomed to thinking about the whole picture in order to determine the cause of their problems. Most of the time, people focus on one detail and cannot see the forest through the trees.

This was certainly the case with Brutus, who was a 12-week-old Rottweiler puppy when his family called to inquire about my puppy class. Brutus belonged to a large family with five children ranging in age from sixteen to eight years. However, their veterinarian advised against taking a kindergarten class, so they decided not to attend. Instead, they waited until Brutus was six months old and enrolled him in a traditional obedience class.

The 16-year-old daughter was Brutus’ primary trainer and she did everything her instructor told her to do. At first, Brutus, too, seemed to tolerate the training and did as he was told. The family was pleased and happy with his progress. But as the class advanced, “obedience” became less agreeable to Brutus. He became defiant and angry, and finally began acting aggressively, threatening each of the family members in separate instances.

After an incident wherein he bit one of the younger children, the family took Brutus to a veterinarian to see if maybe something was wrong with him. At the veterinarian’s office, he was completely out of control and had to be tranquilized so they could work on him. Wisely, the veterinarian suggested they talk to another trainer, one who specialized in violence-free training methods; he gave them my number.

By the time they called me, Brutus was 18 months old and still unneutered. I have two requirements for taking aggression cases: The dog must be spayed or neutered, and they must take the dog in for a complete blood work-up and urinalysis. The second requirement had already been met; the lab work showed that Brutus had no obvious health problems. However, the family was hesitant about neutering and I told them to think it over and let me know what they decided. Shortly afterward, the family had Brutus neutered, and made an appointment with me to bring him to my teaching center. I asked the whole family to attend.

Brutus was the largest Rottweiler I have ever seen. When he was standing and I was sitting we were eyeball to eyeball. He seemed sweet, but his family was having some serious problems with him and now we had to try to figure out what was happening.

Diet and Aggression

The first thing we discussed was diet. They had been feeding him some grocery store dog food and that was all. Their veterinarian and breeder had told them never to feed him “people food.” However, these experts were not living with this dog and dealing with his behavior!

They were astounded to hear me tell them to feed him whatever they were eating. The rule of thumb was: If what you’re eating is good for you, then it’s good for Brutus!

I explained the importance of a fresh food diet and its effect on health and behavior. When a dog is not receiving proper nutrition, he cannot function well mentally or physically. What is sold as food for dogs in bags and cans is barely recognized by their bodies as food. All living creatures need fresh food in order to be healthy.

In Brutus’ case, I suggested that extra carbohydrates and fats in the diet have proven to be quite helpful in aggression cases. Although initially reluctant to go along with this, after much discussion, they finally agreed to give it a try. They felt they had nothing to lose and everything to gain. The next topic of discussion was the environment. When Brutus was a puppy, they had intended to make him a member of the family and have him live in the house. Since he had become aggressive, he was banished to the back yard and never allowed in the house.

This led to a discussion of the importance of incorporating Brutus back into the family. The more time he spent alone in the yard, the more his behavior deteriorated. While he was out there, he received no education about living with humans. He was merely a dog living in the yard. He made up his own rules and was apparently quite adamant about enforcing them.

By bringing him back into the family, with rules and guidelines, he could be more easily taught and learn how to be the omega member of the family, rather than the alpha! Of course, I was not suggesting they just open the door and let him in the house. They would have to decide in what rooms he would be allowed, where he would sleep, what barriers they could use and what rules they wanted to enforce.

From now on, the rule was simply that anything Brutus wanted was to be regarded as a reward. He was to say PLEASE and THANK YOU by doing what he was told in order to obtain the reward! If he did it, he got what he wanted. If he didn’t do it, he was denied what he wanted.

To accomplish this, a “no free lunch” program was to be instituted. This meant that from now on, Brutus would have to do something to earn what he wanted. If he wanted to be petted, he must first be told to SIT or DOWN or whatever. If he complied, then he would be petted. If he did not comply, there was to be no petting. The same was to be done at feeding times, when giving cookies, when letting him outside or inside, when playing with him, etc. Brutus would soon learn that if he did as he was told, then he could have whatever he wanted! This would give him a reason to listen and go along with what he was told.

The Heart of the Aggression Problem

The next subject was what kind of training Brutus had received. It was in this phase of the consultation that I finally uncovered the cause of his aggression.

The family told me they had taken him to an obedience class where he was taught the basic commands SIT, DOWN, COME, HEEL, STAY. They had used choke chains and been instructed to give him very harsh corrections when he made any mistakes. The instructor showed the daughter how to hang the dog by the collar until he almost passed out when he did not obey.

Because he was such a big dog, this did not work well. So he taught her how to use a rubber hose with a wooden dowel in it and smack him on the snout when he disobeyed. This sounded cruel to the family but the trainer assured them it was not and that they must do it or they would never have control of their dog. With much trepidation, they went along with the program and Brutus became worse and worse.

When they called their trainer about the aggression, he said they would have to get more physical with their dog. He told them, “Never let him get away with anything and harshly punish every incident of defiance. Brutus must be forced to obey every command.” These people trusted their trainer and did as they were told.

When I asked the girl to demonstrate how Brutus responded to her commands, she put a choke chain on him, then began shouting commands and jerking on his leash. Brutus reluctantly did what he was told, but grew visibly tense and angry.

At last, this was the puzzle piece that had been missing. Brutus’ “aggression” was really a defensive response to anticipated punishment that was poorly timed and totally misunderstood. He had been brutalized into obedience because that is what the “expert” had told his family they must do. This made him frightened, then defensive, and, finally, aggressive.

An Understandable Response

Imagine the situation from Brutus’ perspective. He had a family who loved and cherished him. Then one day they all began yelling at him and hurting him. Suddenly he did not feel safe with them and their “weird” behavior toward him. He did what his doggy brain told him to do and defended himself. I quickly ended the demonstration of Brutus’ training and removed the choke chain from his neck. I then introduced him to a clicker and a treat. Using the click/treat technique, Brutus was willingly performing all the things he knew how to do in a matter of minutes. He was doing it happily, willingly, off-leash and having fun for the first time. The entire family sat there in utter amazement. They could not believe I was able to tell Brutus to SIT and he would do it, without a leash or a collar. He was a completely different dog!

We had a few more sessions together and completed the reeducation of Brutus and his family. Everyone was delighted with the results. Brutus and his family had finally found the path to mutual trust and respect. It’s sad that people get such bad advice and feel they have no where else to turn. It’s really sad that dogs have to endure the bad advice of these “experts.” If someone tells you to do something that seems unkind or downright cruel, trust your instincts and don’t do it. Keep searching for someone who can help you and your dog learn to live happily ever after together!

Linda Goodman is a holistic pet behavior consultant with a training center and a Holistic Pet Supply Center in Riverside, California.

Canine Acupuncture – Acupressure and Homeopathy

Not long ago, acupuncture, acupressure, chiropractic, massage therapy, and homeopathy were regarded with scorn and suspicion by some dog owners and much of the veterinary establishment. Today, these healing modalities are becoming widely accepted and respected as viable companions to traditional Western veterinary medicine. As East and West form a working relationship, they are often referred to as “complementary therapies,” as more veterinarians use them in conjunction with the medical skills and protocols they learned in veterinary college.

When their dogs present them with conditions that fail to improve with traditional veterinary treatment – things like persistent lameness, digestive ailments, training and behavior challenges, and many other mysterious canine puzzles – dog owners will try anything that they think will help. Frustration with a lack of results from the standard medical approach has led thousands of dog owners to try one or more of the complementary therapies. And everywhere you turn you hear success stories, cases where one or more of the complementary therapies improved a formerly hopeless condition.

But until recently, little controlled research was conducted on alternative therapies. Not until the last 20 years have the methods been scrutinized with Western scientific methodology and shown to be effective. Though the studies may mean little to people who have already seen the methods heal their dogs, the positive results have helped motivate the scientists and the veterinary establishment climb onto the complementary bandwagon.

And, suddenly, the bandwagon’s starting to get crowded. Look in the classified ad section of any dog magazine and you’ll be faced with a bewildering array of complementary therapy choices: canine massage, trigger point myotherapy, laser and pulse magnetic therapy, all-natural herbal remedies, homeopathic remedy kits…the variations seem endless.

The problem today is not finding an alternative suitable for your dog and his health situation, it’s figuring out which of the many alternatives will be most beneficial, and locating a qualified practitioner. How do you avoid the well-intentioned but misguided or under-trained practitioners in the field, or worse yet, the scam artists who are riding the wave with glossy but insubstantial treatments? Dog owners are not alone with these questions – they are also on the minds of the responsible practitioners of the complementary disciplines.

Take heart! Education and guidance from well-schooled practitioners – whether they are veterinarians, practitioners who usually treat people, or skilled lay people – is available. Many of the alternative practices have formed national organizations that train and/or certify members, set training standards, and maintain a minimum level of quality control for practitioners of the therapy. You can contact these organizations for more information about the modalities or even referrals to certified practitioners. Below, you’ll find a brief description of the most popular modalities and contact information for their national associations.

As you will discover, however, the demand for qualified professionals still outstrips the supply. Unless you’re lucky enough to have one conducting business close to your home, you might need to rely on your local veterinarian for providing emergency and day-to-day health care for your dog, and complement that treatment with the services of a traveling “alternative” practitioner when available or with the advice from one of the many holistic veterinarians who offer telephone consultations.

Holistic Medicine
Holistic practitioners differ significantly from those who practice conventional Western (called allopathic) medicine, in which symptoms are treated in isolation. Diseases are believed to have one specific cause – a germ, virus, or bacteria. Instead, using a matrix of treatments, they address the entire, complex blend of body, mind, and spirit that makes up each individual.

The goal of holistic medicine is to use whatever gentle treatments may be effective to bring all aspects of a being into balance, encouraging the body’s natural ability to heal itself. Treatments may include conventional medicine, acupuncture, chiropractic, massage, and homeopathy. They contend that the strictly allopathic approach may be effective in the shorten, but can also disrupt the body’s intricate system, inviting long-term harm to the whole.

Organization: AHVMA
The American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, established in 1981, does not offer any certification protocols or training sessions, but acts as a clearinghouse for anyone – veterinarians and non-veterinarians who want information about any of the therapies currently available. The association publishes a quarterly journal (a one-year subscription is $65). Its largest endeavor is an annual conference featuring presentations on a wide range of health topics. For an introduction to the wide world of healing modalities, this convention can’t be matched.

AHVMA
2214 Old Emmorton Road
Bel Air, MD 21015
Ph (410) 569-0795
Fax (410) 569-2346
E-mail: 74253,2560@compuserve.com

Acupuncture
Smile when you see acupuncture referred to as a “new” therapy. It has been practiced for at least five thousand years by millions of people all over the world.

Acupuncture involves the insertion of fine needles into the skin at specific points around the body. Acupressure uses fingertip massage instead, and in recent years, lasers and other electronic devices have been used on these same points too.

The theory passed down from its ancient Chinese originators is that acupuncture can influence the chi (pronounced chee), or life energy, that constantly circulates throughout the body. Practitioners of Traditional Chinese Medicine believe that chi comes in two complementary forms, yin and yang. When yin and yang are balanced, health results. When unbalanced, illness will follow.

Chi is believed to circulate through the body along invisible pathways called meridians. Each meridian passes close to the skin’s surface at places called points. At these points, the insertion of needles or other stimulation affects the flow of chi.

Modem Western medical practitioners have a few problems with this explanation. How can you make sense of a system, after all, that you can’t see? One devoted researcher, George A. Ulett, M.D., Ph.D., director of the Department of Psychiatry at Deaconness in St. Louis and clinical professor of psychiatry at the University of Missouri School of medicine, suggests that acupuncture works neuroelectrically. He postulates that the meridians may be motor nerves, the nerves connected to major muscles. Stimulating the acupuncture points with needles or finger pressure may change the flow of bio-electrical energy along the nerves and trigger the release of neurotransmitters – pain relieving and mood elevating chemicals such as endorphins – that allow nerve cells to communicate.

Obviously, the Western and Eastern theories that explain how acupuncture works are centuries and cultures apart. Both camps know it does work and the dogs respond positively as well. Does it sound too trite to say, “If you need one, use whichever explanation works best for you”?

Organization: IVAS
It is interesting to note that the key organizing body for this group, the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society (IVAS), was founded by three veterinarians in December of 1974 – 10 years prior to the creation of the National Commission for the Certification of Acupuncturists, which certifies human acupuncture practitioners!

IVAS offers extensive training programs that rotate through various locations throughout the U.S. and the world. Attendance at these programs is limited to veterinarians only. Many members also conduct local seminars and workshops and speak at meetings for other groups.

The group has about 1200 members. About half are veterinarians who have been certified in acupuncture through IVAS; the rest are non-certified veterinarians, associate members (lay people), and organizational members. Most of the 600-plus certified members are located in the U.S. To become certified, veterinarians must take a 100-hour course, pass a four-hour written exam and a practical exam, and complete a 40-hour internship with a certified veterinarian.

IVAS
P.O. Box 2074
Nederland, CO 80466-2074
Ph (303) 258-3767
Fax (303) 258-0767
E-mail: ivasjagg@msn.com

Homeopathy
This is the most difficult complementary modality to explain scientifically, and the one most likely to require a leap of faith from the user.

The word comes from the Greek homios, “like,” and pathos, “suffering,” to imply healing like with like. The founder of homeopathy was a German physician named Samuel Hahnemann, born in 1755. While translating a medical text, Dr. Hahnemann came across a description of a treatment for malaria, one which was made from the bark of a China tree (Cinchona succirubra). Out of curiosity, he ingested a bit of the bark; to his surprise, he soon felt a mild version of symptoms similar to those of malaria. More experiments led him to discover that extremely minute doses of the medicine sometimes reduced signs of the disease and cured the patient. From this work, he established the concepts of homeopathy.

Allopathic pharmaceuticals work by overwhelming and destroying the agents of disease. In contrast, homeopathic remedies mimic symptoms similar to those produced by the disease, engaging and strengthening the body’s own disease-fighting defenses.

Homeopathic remedies consist of doses of the active ingredient substance which are super-diluted, and then shaken vigorously or “potentized,” following dilution. The shaking process, or potentization, causes friction between the water molecules and the substance, transferring the medicine’s healing properties to the water. Most frequently, the active ingredients are plants used in traditional herbal therapies, although a few come from animal sources and others come from naturally occurring compounds.

Critics charge that homeopathic remedies are nothing but water, and that a placebo effect is responsible for any apparent improvement in a patient’s condition – though the placebo effect is notoriously absent in non-humans! It’s a seeming paradox that the greater the dilution, the more effective the remedy is believed to be, and some doses are so diluted that the solution may not contain a single molecule of the substance. This violates a principle of modern pharmacology, the “dose-response relationship,” which predicts that the bigger the dose, the greater the effect.

However, it’s a less-flashy principle of pharmacology thought to be at work in homeopathy. Dr. Richard Pitcairn, DVM, Ph.D., of Eugene, Oregon, was one of the first veterinarians in the U.S. to offer homeopathy for animals. He explains something called “Arndtz law” describes the phenomenon: Weak stimuli excites physiological activity; moderately strong ones favor it; strong ones retard it; and very strong ones arrest it.

“In homeopathy, this principle has far more importance than it would in conventional pharmacology, where they are looking for what they call ‘the therapeutic dose,’ which is the largest dose the body can tolerate,” Pitcairn explains. “The dose-response relationship doesn’t explain all drug interactions. There are substances which have very different and sometimes opposite effects when given to patients in various dosages; when you remember that, homeopathy becomes easier to understand.”

Homeopaths and their clients relate remarkable anecdotal successes, sometimes with almost immediate relief of symptoms in both human and non-human clients. And a growing number of studies indicate that the treatments are indeed effective.

Organization: AVH
In 1992, Dr. Pitcairn began offering a five-session, 128-hour homeopathy training through his practice, the Animal Natural Health Center. The course is open only to licensed veterinarians. Audio and videotapes of Dr. Pitcairn’s seminars, written materials and a remedy kit are available to lay people.

Very recently, Dr. Pitcairn and a small group of veterinarians he helped train have begun to organize an association to meet the needs of veterinarians who would like to use homeopathy. They have established a name for the association, the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy (AVH), but are still in the process of defining their goals and curriculum. They do offer a short referral list of 32 veterinarians they have certified as qualified to practice veterinary homeopathy. Despite its newness, it looks as if the AVH is best positioned to become the definitive national association for veterinary homeopathy.

AVH
751 NE 168th Street
North Miami, FL 33162
Ph (305) 652-5372
Fax (305) 653-7244
E-mail: AVH@naturalholistic.com

Chiropractic
The word “chiropractic” is derived from the Greek words cheir and pratikos meaning “done by hand.” Since the nervous system controls or coordinates all the other systems and tissues in the body, any problem with the nerve function, whether caused by mechanical, chemical, or psychiatric interference, may cause pain and disease. Less noticeable, but perhaps more important, chiropractors believe that nerve dysfunctions can deteriorate – or at least alter – normal and optimal health and performance.

Chiropractors seek to improve the function of the nervous system by addressing it directly and indirectly through a variety of manipulations to the body, most often to the spine. Only after careful analysis are the precise and delicate maneuvers performed, chiropractors explain, and always to achieve a predetermined goal.

One of the earliest descriptions of soft-tissue manipulation was found in a Chinese document written around 2700 BC. Soft-tissue manipulation was also practiced by the ancient Japanese, Indians of Asia, Egyptians, Babylonians, Syrians, Hindus, and Tibetans. Hippocrates, the celebrated Greek physician born around 460 BC, wrote at least 70 books on healing, including several on chiropractic. One was titled, “On Setting Joints by Leverage.”

Modem chiropractic was developed in the U.S. in the latter part of the 19th century. Daniel David Palmer, a one-time grocer and teacher, studied the effect of physical manipulations on people and trained many of his friends and associates in the practice. By 1913 the first state law licensing chiropractors was passed, and by 193 1, 39 states had given chiropractors legal recognition. Today, it is the most sought-after alternative health care for humans in the United States, and the practice of animal chiropractic is growing exponentially.

Organization: AVCA
The American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA) was founded in 1989 by Sharon L. Willoughby, DVM, DC. The initials tell you that Willoughby is one of only a handful of professionals who have both a veterinary doctorate and a doctorate in chiropractic. The AVCA’s mission statement includes a commitment to the continuing advancement of chiropractic as a health care choice for animals in the world community, and to bringing the veterinary and chiropractic professions together for a common and higher goal in the health care of animals.

While more than 600 veterinarians and doctors of chiropractic have taken the AVCA course, just over 200 have completed their certification requirements. The basic certification course consists of five separate modules, each with 30 hours of instruction (150 hours total). Written and practical exams are also required. Acknowledging the educational gaps in both groups’ backgrounds, the course includes veterinary basics for chiropractors and chiropractic basics for veterinarians. The modules can be completed in one year, and should be completed within two.

As with other alternative therapies, public demand for animal chiropractic has mushroomed recently, and practitioners can be hard to find. AVCA routinely makes referrals to only 230 certified animal chiropractors around the country.

AVCA
623 Main Street
Hillsdale, IL 61257
Ph (309) 523-3995

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Using Veterinary Acupuncture as a Complimentary Healing Method”

-By Pat Miller

Expert Answers for Dog Separation Anxiety and Poop Eating

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In this issue we provide expert advice about dog separation anxiety.

At Whole Dog Journal we value our readers and want to help them do their very best for their dogs. We’ve taken your question to the experts in order to provide the best advice for solving your problems with dog behavior and training. In this issue our experts provide advice about separation anxiety in multi-dog households, and how to stop a determined poop eater.

Dealing With Separation Anxiety

My German Shepherd, Mercy, was just a puppy when I got her; now she is three years old. I use a wheelchair, and she is my service dog, so she is almost always with me. But occasionally I do have to leave her. When I go places I leave her in my van by herself, and she is fine with this for any amount of time. If I leave her at home by herself, though, she panics. She’ll even knock over furniture in order to see out the window and to try to get out.

This behavior worsened recently following my move to a new house, which I share with several other people. When I left the other day, she climbed onto the kitchen counter to see out the window (and helped herself to the loaf of bread that was on the counter, something she had never done before), and got up on the dining room table to see out another window, knocking paperwork, candles, flowers, etc. to the floor.

The only thing that has worked in the past is not to leave her alone, but obviously, this is not always practical! A friend of mine suggested putting her in a crate when I’m gone, but she has never been crated before and I’m afraid she might freak out.

Incidentally, there are five other dogs where I am living now, so it’s not like she is all alone when I leave her here!

-Robert Alonzo
Santa Rosa, CA

We gave this question to Jill Breitner, a certified veterinary technician and an animal behaviorist from Sonoma County, CA. Breitner has operated her animal behavior practice, Totally Devoted To You, for 21 years.

Separation anxiety can cause enormous problems for people whose dogs are experiencing it. There are a number of ways this can manifest itself in the dog, and not all solutions are right for each dog. Every case has to be dealt with in an individual manner. The approach I’ll describe below could work in your dog’s case, but other dogs may need a slightly different approach Separation anxiety comes from the dog feeling insecure. It can arise from a number of conditions, many of which might be unknown if you have not had the dog since its birth. There is not a single answer to solving the problem; you really need to put an entire behavior modification program into place.

Often, the first thing inexperienced people will tell you to do is crate a dog who is destructive. Proper early crate training is a great thing to do with young dogs. But crating an adult dog with a history of separation anxiety, one who had never been crated before, would make the dog freak out. I’ve seen panicked dogs who have ripped their pads or nails off trying to get out of a crate, who have suffered heat prostration in their desperation to escape, and who have broken their teeth biting the bars on the door. You were correct to avoid crating Mercy.

Clearly, one step toward the survival of your own house is to confine the dog to a smaller space where she can’t do as much damage or to get into trouble. Select a room that is not too small or confined (a small bathroom, for instance, or a room with no windows); this will only add to her panic. You need to work on building Mercy’s confidence. One easy way to do this is to teach or, in the case of an already trained service dog, review some basic obedience exercises. Set aside at least 10 to 20 minutes a day to work with your dog, going over some basic obedience drills (sit, down, stay, heel, etc.). This will refresh her memory as to some of the keystones of the dog/human relationship. It will remind her who is in charge, what is right and wrong, what her limits are, and that she is a good dog.

Whenever a dog displays signs of stress, as is common when people change locations, it can be helpful to go back to square one in terms of their training, and review some of their familiar territory. Even highly trained working dogs benefit psychologically from the repetition of their most basic skills. Successfully fulfilling your basic requests and receiving praise for a job well done, will help boost her confidence and self-esteem.

Incidentally, even dogs who have had no formal training can benefit from gentle, non-violent training when they are under stress. Daily training sessions guarantee the dog some contact with you, at least 20 minutes a day, one on one. And when they learn things that please you, it makes them feel good about themselves and their situation.

Next, I’d start to wean her from your constant presence, by slowly introducing her to short separations. Some dogs start to panic the moment you walk out the front door, attacking the door as it closes behind you. If that’s the case, these first practice sessions will be short.

Purchase one of those Kong toys (or something similar) to use to distract her when you start your trial separations. I like to use a Kong that has been filled with peanut butter and frozen. This makes the peanut butter even harder to get out quickly. I’d give one to her once in your presence, to make sure she can figure it out and is interested in it, and then refrain from giving her another until your first practice separation.

Since there are other dogs in your household, you might have to give her this toy in a fenced-off room or section of the house. If she seems to benefit from the company of the other dogs, you might want to include them in the anxiety section of the house, and give them their own Kong toys to ensure she’ll have one after you close the door.

By the way, as soon as you come home, pick up the Kong toy, and only give it to her when you leave. You don’t want this to be a treat she learns to under appreciate.

I like to tell my dogs when I leave, I love you; take care of the house. This is just a calm acknowledgment that I’m leaving, and it’s giving them a job to do while I’m away. It’s NOT intended to put them on notice of a big event, like, I’m going away now and I’ll be back in a few hours so don’t worry! Dogs are extremely sensitive to your tone and your underlying nervousness; if you are anxious about leaving her, it helps cue her to be anxious, too.

Sometimes, dogs know you’re not really leaving unless you go through all the motions of really leaving: taking your keys, locking the door, getting in your car, and driving away. Other dogs assume the worst every time you step out the front door, even if you are just in your bathrobe. Use whatever routine it takes to convince your dog you really are leaving; the practice is of no use if she doesn’t believe it’s the real thing.

Depending on her reaction, the first separation can be as little as one minute, or as long as five to 10 minutes. If you come home to a house that is in the same shape as you left it in, you can make your next trial a little longer. Keep extending the length of your sessions, until you are doing what you really need to do when you leave!

What you do when you come back home is important. If you find a scene of devastation, don’t make the mistake of sympathizing with the dog: Oh, poor sweetie, you were so afraid! I’m so sorry! She needs to know that her behavior is not OK. If I came home and saw wreckage, including, as you mentioned, an empty bread bag, I’d go to her and put her on a leash, taking her around the house and showing her all the things she’d done wrong, while talking to her in a very stern, mean tone of voice. I’d do this for at least a minute, but not much longer.

Following the correction, I’d ignore her for at least 15 to 20 minutes. This period is very important in the case of insecure dogs, who, like children, will sometimes do bad things in order to get your attention a negative form of attention, but attention nevertheless. By fussing about her bad behavior for an extended period, you inadvertently give her the attention she craves. Ignoring her helps to punish the behavior instead.

But if you come home and see that she’s been good, don’t make a big fuss over her. Greet her as you would another grown-up person at home: Hi, it’s nice to see you, how was your day? It shouldn’t be a big deal that you left and came back, saying with great excitement, Oh goodness, how I missed you and what a great job you did while I was away! Leaving and coming back is an ordinary event. Hopefully, she’ll learn this simple truth for herself.

Stopping a Feces Eater

My 2 1/2-year-old Beagle, Brittany, is the most wonderful dog I’ve ever had. She has, however, one disgusting habit. Given the opportunity, she eats her own feces. I have to immediately clean up every poop, or she’ll eat it as soon as she has a chance. She doesn’t do this when we’re out on walks, just at home in our yard. I’ve tried putting aversive agents on it Tabasco, hot sauce, and Bitter Apple but she’ll eat it anyway.

We bought Brittany from a pet store when she was about six months old. She is generally very healthy and active, and I feed her a great dog food, California Natural.

-Jennifer Jimolka
Stamford, CT

We turned over this question to Dr. Nancy Scanlan, a veterinarian for 27 years, the last 10 in an all-holistic practice. Dr. Scanlan, who practices in Riverside, CA, is the author of Stop That Itch!

Some dogs eat feces because they are missing trace minerals in their diet. While California Natural is a good food, your dog may need a trace mineral supplement. I’d try kelp or AniMinerals or any mineral supplement that’s from old sea beds.

Sometimes dogs don’t produce enough digestive enzymes. It seems curious, but these dogs are compelled to eat their feces because it contains the digestive enzymes they need a kind of a disgusting recycling system. I’d also try giving Brittany some digestive enzymes with her food. My favorite brand is ProZyme.

Sometimes, for unknown reasons, dogs get in the habit of eating their feces, and even seem to develop a taste for it; for some reason, this is more common in dogs that come from pet shops. If neither of the two suggestions above seem to stop her, there are a number of things you can add to her food that will change the chemistry and taste of her feces, making it less attractive to her. These additives work better than something you spray or pour on the feces, because the bad taste will permeate the feces, as opposed to simply covering it. Purportedly, these substances are chemically transformed into a much more aversive substance in the digestive tract.

Adding meat tenderizer or raw, grated zucchini to her food is supposed to accomplish this. There are two commercial food additives, Forbid and Deter (the latter is essentially meat tenderizer) available from veterinarians that supposedly alter the chemistry of the feces and make it as repugnant to the dog as it is to us!

Benefits of Chiropractic Care for Dogs

Tova was raised just like a little princess. A copper and cream colored Siberian Husky, she belonged to a very old man who spoiled and overfed her with any kind of food that seemed to make her happy: Spam, canned people food and canned dog food, Burger King and McDonald’s hamburgers, etc. Her owner had a part-time job picking up and delivering blood samples, and he brought Tova with him on his driving route, where she enjoyed getting cookie treats from her many admirers along the old man’s route. But beyond walking to and from the car at each stop, Tova and her owner got very little exercise. By the time she was seven years old, she weighed 83 pounds – at least 20 pounds more than she should have.

At that point, her story took a sad turn. Her owner died, and while the old man’s relatives tried to figure out what to do with Tova, they left her in his garage. He had left instructions with his family for Tova to be euthanized when he died, but they could not find it in their hearts to put her down. However, no one in the family wanted her, either. Poor Tova spent at least six weeks in the garage, mourning, and waiting for her next ride in the car.

A friend of a friend

Fortunately, someone heard about Tova’s plight from a friend. Paula J. Sperry, a chiropractor from Eastham, Massachusetts, had recently lost a beloved dog to old age, and was looking for another dog. She called the old man’s relatives and asked permission to come and see Tova; when she met the husky dog, she immediately fell in love with Tova’s sweet personality.

Confused and upset, however, the man’s relatives could not bring themselves to turn Tova over to any individual. They told Sperry they weren’t going to give the dog to anyone.

Sperry just couldn’t get Tova out of her mind, however, and called the family later to ask about the dog again. That’s when she discovered that the family had brought Tova to an animal shelter! If she wanted the dog, Sperry was told, she would have to “go through the proper channels.”

It’s a good thing that Tova had met Sperry prior to arriving at the animal shelter; she didn’t appear all that attractive to potential adopters. She was way overweight, and appeared to have numerous health and behavior problems. She was stiff, dirty, and had skin problems. She lay down most of the time, completely lethargic and depressed, almost unable to lift her head. When she did walk, her head stayed down and she could not move her tail. She was prone to bouts of colitis, with small amounts of blood and mucous in her stool. Furthermore, she was urinary incontinent, leaving puddles of urine wherever she lay down.

But Sperry knew that Tova hadn’t always been like that; she felt the dog’s condition was understandable considering the recent sad events in her life. She didn’t know whether or not Tova could be restored to her past happiness, but she wanted to try. She filled out the adoption papers and put Tova in her car to take her home.

Inauspicious beginning
That car ride didn’t seem like an auspicious start to their relationship. Sperry drove along with Tova woo-wooing the whole way, distant and sad. Sperry imagined the dog was mourning the old man, and she herself was still mourning the loss of her old dog; they cried together the whole way to Sperry’s home.

Sperry took Tova to a veterinarian right away, seeking help for her many symptoms. The fat Husky was exhibiting a “laundry list” of problems, but the veterinarian felt only one was medically treatable: the urinary incontinence. That could be cleared up with a prescription for diethylstilbestrol (DES), the veterinarian said.

But Sperry was reluctant to use such a controversial drug as the first line of attack. DES was used in humans from 1940 to 1971 as a treatment to prevent spontaneous abortion; later, it was discovered the drug caused a multitude of health problems in the women who used it, and even more in the sons and daughters of these women. While DES is used successfully today in other applications and much lower dosages, Sperry felt there were better alternatives to explore first.

Alternative tack
Following the veterinary examination, Sperry felt it was time to put her medical training into practice.

As a chiropractor, Sperry has successfully treated a number of human patients for the same symptoms that Tova was suffering. She also had worked with veterinarians to expand her knowledge of animal anatomy, and, with the veterinarians’ approbation, had used chiropractic adjustments on a number of animals with great results.

There were a number of things about Tova that led her to think that the dog would be a very good candidate for the therapy. Sperry asked Tova’s veterinarian about the location of the nerve supply that controls the bladder and associated muscles in the canine spine. To her credit, the veterinarian found the question interesting and she researched the information for Sperry.

Back at home, Sperry examined and palpated Tova’s spine. She looked for places where the spinal joints failed to move freely, and where the muscles or skin twitched or jumped in response to her probing. Armed with this information, and with the information from her veterinarian, she made several adjustments to Tova’s spine.

No change in Tova’s condition was immediately discernible, a fact that didn’t worry Sperry. “Chiropractic might work right away, or it might take weeks and dozens of adjustments to work,” she says. “Like all natural healing methods – massage, acupuncture, herbs – chiropractic is not a magic bullet. You have to give it time.”

A couple of days later, Sperry gave Tova another adjustment. This time, Tova went several days without losing urine, and Sperry knew she on the right track. She made a final adjustment to Tova’s lower back area, which completely resolved the problem. Six years later, Tova still has total control of her urinary system.

Given the total success of the first round of chiropractic on her dog, Sperry decided to try making an adjustment to another problem area she had identified in Tova’s spine. When Sperry palpated Tova’s lower neck, she found arthritic nodules in the vertebrae in that area. She speculated that this condition, as well as Tova’s habitual and unusual posture – head held low and an unmoving tail – would benefit from adjustments of those spinal vertebrae.

After carefully making an adjustment to Tova’s neck, Sperry noticed almost immediate improvement in Tova’s mood, posture, and especially her movement. “It took about a day. The morning after the adjustment, Tova had her head up, and she started wagging her tail, and her personality changed; she just improved so much.” It could be, Sperry theorizes, that the miserable dog had suffered chronic pain from a misaligned spine for so long that she had become emotionally “shut down” and stoic. “I think she had probably been in fairly serious pain,” says Sperry. The change in her was huge.”

Over the next weeks, Sperry made more adjustments to her dog’s back and neck. The therapy produced drastic positive results. Soon Tova was able to wag her whole body!

Other support
Sperry knew from her human patients that chiropractic, like all systems of therapy, works best in conjunction with a complete health-improving plan. She weaned Tova from her high fat, low quality diet, and put her on a rotation diet, introducing different foods for fairly long periods of time. She monitored Tova’s reactions to each food, noting those foods that seemed to trigger mild allergic reactions. Tova responded to lamb, pork, and corn with itchy skin and colitis, but did well on chicken, salmon, and beef. On these foods, she grew a healthier coat and displayed no bowel problems.

Sperry feeds Tova a high-quality dog food, Abady Dog Food, mixed with human food and nutritional supplements. Tova receives one “Okra Pepsin” capsule (made by Standard Process ) per day, which Sperry credits with keeping Tova’s digestive system on track. She also eats one-half to one egg yolks each day, which seems to help her coat. She also gets a teaspoon or so of Ester C (powdered vitamin C supplement, intended for healthy bones and gums), and two to three droppers of Coyote Springs’ “Tasha’s Herbs for Dogs, Skin and Hair Formula.” When her psoriasis flares up, Sperry gives her 500 milligrams of goldenseal powder daily until the condition resolves.

Sperry also started Tova on a regimen of gentle daily exercise, starting slowly and working up to a regular daily walk. Slowly, her weight decreased and her energy level and stamina rose.

Wearing a collar seems to exacerbate Tova’s spinal problems, so when it is necessary for her to be on a leash, Sperry usually uses a harness.

Today, Tova is 13 years old, and, according to Sperry, when people guess her age, they estimate her to be eight or nine years old. She weighs a healthy and fit 58 pounds, and though she still requires occasional spinal adjustments to maintain flexibility, she is mobile and active. “I’m so glad to have her in my life; she’s just a joy,” says Sperry; if Tova could talk, she’d probably say the same for her human companion.

-By Lyn Richards

Letters – 06/98

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Editor’s Note: A reader reported difficulty ordering “The Culture Clash,” a book we recommended in the May issue. Our local bookstores had no trouble finding the book, but in case you did, we can recommend one source that has the book in stock: “Dog and Cat Catalog,” (800) 776-2665.

Our recommendation of AniMinerals, a trace mineral supplement made by Pet’s Friend, Tamarac, FL, was inadvertently omitted from “Super Supplements” (May 1998). This fine product can be ordered from Pet’s Friend, (800) 868-1009.


Caution about liver treats
Your article about treats (May 1998) proved to have practical value to me. One of the top three rated treats, Old Mother Hubbard brand “Liv’R’Crunch” biscuits, came with an appropriate caution about a potential risk of vitamin A toxicity, as should be the case with any beef liver-based food.

I was unaware of this risk, and since I use “Liv’R’Crunch” as a primary training reward, I followed up with my veterinarian and Old Mother Hubbard with the specifics of how much I use, and determined that I should probably cut back. What I learned from that one article more than paid for my subscription.

-Tony Stalls
Arlington, VA

Product Review: Hiking Gear for Dogs

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Summer is in full swing, and dog owners all over the country are hiking and camping with their canine companions. WDJ decided to take a look at several of the products on the market that are designed to make hiking with our dogs more fun and easier for dog and/or human: a canine backpack, two pairs of doggie hiking boots, and two portable food and water bowls.

-By Pat Miller

YOUR Whole Dog Journal

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Planning each issue of WDJ is a collaborative process. All month long I talk to my publisher, writers, and most importantly, dog lovers. I ask everyone I talk to, “What would you like to read about?” I get all kinds of answers, and I take all kinds of notes. There is so much to cover!

Some articles are about things we HAVE to deal with – the big issues in holistic dog care. These topics are often controversial, and always difficult to discuss in just a few pages, because there is so much to these issues, and so many opinions about the material. These are topics that we will revisit again and again.

A good example is this month’s article about vaccination, written by San Francisco writer Roger Govier. Just about every holistic veterinarian will tell you that over-vaccination is responsible for any number of canine ills: the prevalence of autoimmune system failures, cancer, allergies, and even behavior problems. And nearly every conventional veterinarian will tell you that if he doesn’t vaccinate your dog every year, you can just about kiss your dog goodbye, because he’s sure to catch some awful disease without the shot. And there you are, with a dog you love, stuck in the middle.

Our aim is NOT to tell you what to do with your dog; only you can decide what is best. But we will give you as much information as we can from the entire spectrum of canine care: from the most conservative veterinary protocol to the most radical healing alternative. Then you can make an informed choice, based on what fits you and your dog’s needs.

There are other subjects, however, that we feel we have to make a stand on. We’ll try to alert you when we have definite leanings on a subject, and if you disagree, give you the opportunity to try to win us over to your view; fair’s fair. In every case where we do take a stand, you can count on one thing: Our position is pro-dog.

Foremost among the subjects upon which we will always take a particular stand is the issue of cruelty. We don’t and won’t condone cruelty against dogs or other animals in these pages. There is and will always be disagreement in the dog training community about what constitutes cruelty and what amount of cruelty is an acceptable means to the noble end of dog training. And everyone, of course, has the right to their opinions. But we are, flat out, biased toward nonviolent dog training.

Our bias was showing in an article called, “Choosing the Right Trainer,” published in our May 1998 issue. It was written by Pat Miller, who worked for the Marin (CA) Humane Society for 20 years before moving to Salinas, California, where she now works as a writer, a dog trainer, and serves on the Board of Directors of the Santa Cruz SPCA. She has been on the front lines of the dog training and care war for many years, and developed strong opinions about what’s right and best for most dogs. It happens that we agree with most of them, and so you’ll see her name quite a bit in our pages.

Not everyone will agree with our opinions, and when this is the case, we’ll be happy to hear your side of the story. If you disagree with us, let us know – we’d be happy to air positive and fair discussions on any subject. In fact, there’s a good letter from a reader in this issue, responding to the article mentioned above.

Sometimes, we joust amongst ourselves. I wrangled with publisher Timothy Cole over the article about dog shampoos that ran in the June issue; even though it was a good article, I wasn’t sure that the subject was of enough interest to make it worth our (and your) while. But the first three calls I got from you after it came out were about the shampoo article! Clearly, I’d misjudged the need for news about suds . . .

Here’s the point: We’re here for you. Let us know what you’d like to know more about, and we’ll get a well-researched and easy to understand article on the subject to you as soon as we can – whether it’s about subjects as soft as soap or as tough as training.

Latest Blog

Why Veterinary Wellness Exams Are Important

I took my two dogs—Woody, age 9, and Boone, age 3—to see their vet a week ago. I wasn’t looking forward to being chided for allowing him—nay, facilitating him—to gain a few extra pounds this winter. But I wasn’t at all expecting the health problems that my vet found.