My nine-month-old Bouvier puppy is in training, but I am having trouble finding a positive way to stop his lunging; he is very strong. I am using a choke chain, and my current trainer feels I’m not firm enough in my corrections. I don’t feel comfortable using the choker, but also don’t like the idea of the Halti because it might be even more dangerous if he lunged.
-Carol via e-mail
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Pat Miller, WDJ’s Dog Training Editor, answers this question for us. Miller offers private and group dog training classes from her base in Fairplay, Maryland. For contact information, click here.
Miller responds:
Kudos to you for resisting your trainer’s advice to jerk harder on your pup’s choke chain. Choke chains have been shown to cause spinal subluxations in dogs that were trained with them. In worst-case scenarios, trainers using choke chains have damaged and collapsed dogs’ tracheas, and in some cases even killed dogs.
Head halters are, if used correctly, a much safer way to manage lunging while you train your pup to act properly on leash. I prefer the Snoot Loop and the Gentle Leader to the Halti, as the Halti seems more susceptible to slipping off the dog’s nose (see “Head Halters Right and Wrong,” WDJ June 2000). I recommend using two leashes – one clipped to the head halter, the other to the dog’s regular collar. If he lunges, you can absorb the shock with the regular collar, then use gentle pressure on the head halter to turn him away from the object of his attention.
Then, of course, you must reward the appropriate behavior with a reward marker (such as the Click! of a clicker or the word “Yes!”), followed by a yummy treat. If you use the halter without the marker and treat, you are managing his behavior, but not training him to offer you the correct behavior voluntarily. If you only manage the behavior without training, you may always need the halter to control him. If you train him to perform the desired behavior by rewarding him when he’s not lunging, you should eventually be able to wean him off the halter.
If you are really concerned about using the head halter you can try the J.S. Sporn Halter (actually a harness, which tightens around the dog’s legs and chest when he pulls). Again, you will need to actually train the behavior you want, not just rely on the equipment to change your dog’s behavior.
Socialization is important
It’s also important to understand why he’s lunging, and to work on training him out of that behavior as well. Is it aggression, or is he lunging out of a friendly desire to visit approaching people or dogs? Either way, avoid verbal or physical punishment (corrections). If he begins to associate pain or stress with the approach of others, he may well become aggressive.
Instead, teach him a rewarding, incompatible behavior – such as looking at you with rapt attention – using Clicks! and tasty treats, so he associates the approach of others with really wonderful stuff coming from you. If he is lunging at other dogs because he wants to go play with them, teach him that the way to get to go play with other dogs is to be calm and sit looking up at you. Do this by always having him sit and pay attention before you release him to go play.
More and more trainers are coming to realize the value of positive training methods. You might want to ask your trainer if she will allow you to use positive methods in your class, or find one who can help you train more positively.
Q: My dog drinks about a half-cup of organic milk (same as I drink) with his evening meal. He is a strong, healthy 10-year-old dog, and has never had any problems with arthritis or digestive troubles. My husband, though, is certain that milk is bad for dogs. I look at my dog and feel certain I’ve been doing things right; he looks great. Is there any reason to discontinue his milk?
Kate Mueller Cincinnati, OH
We asked CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to WDJ, to answer this question. Puotinen is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats.
A: Milk is a controversial food. Some pet nutritionists say milk and dairy products are perfect foods, while others blame them for every canine disorder from ear infections to cancer.
The truth lies somewhere in between. Raw, organically grown, unpasteurized, unhomogenized milk straight from a healthy cow or goat can be an excellent food for dogs of every description. After all, it has been for thousands of years. Unfortunately, America’s supermarkets stopped selling raw, whole milk long ago. Supporters of the Campaign for Real Milk, a grassroots movement that advocates a return to humane, organic dairy farming, small-scale dairy food processing, and the sale of good-quality raw milk, documents many problems with America’s milk supply. Today’s dairy cattle are often raised in crowded conditions, fed inappropriate feed, and dosed with hormones, antibiotics, and other drugs that disrupt or alter the production of milk while leaving their residues in dairy products.
But that’s not all! Most of the organically grown milk and cream sold in America’s supermarkets and health food stores is ultrapasteurized and homogenized, which makes it an inappropriate food for dogs.
The two most common methods of pasteurization heat milk to 145 degrees F for 30 minutes (low temperature, long time) or to 161 degrees F for 15 seconds (high temperature, short time). Both methods kill nearly all the bacteria, yeast, molds, and enzymes in milk. Another method, ultra-pasteurization, was developed to give slow-selling products a longer shelf life. These products are heated to 280 degrees F or higher for at least two seconds and packaged in an aseptic atmosphere in sterilized containers. The high temperatures destroy proteins as well as enzymes and bacteria, giving these products a cooked taste.
Pasteurization, which is intended to kill harmful bacteria, is ineffective against drug-resistant strains of salmonella. In addition, pasteurization and ultrapasteurization alter milk’s amino acids, promote the rancidity of unsaturated fatty acids, and destroy vitamins and enzymes. In homogenization, jets of milk collide under high pressure, breaking fat molecules into tiny particles that remain distributed rather than floating to the top. These particles can enter the human and canine bloodstream, explaining why homogenization has been blamed by some researchers for heart disease and circulatory problems.
In most states, the sale of raw, whole milk is illegal, but some states allow raw milk to be sold for pet use, and some allow consumers to buy raw milk directly from dairy farms. Your local health food store may be able to help you find a supplier, as can the Campaign for Real Milk.
Fortunately, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration considers raw milk cheese to be safe if properly aged. Connoisseurs agree that the world’s finest cheeses are made from raw rather than pasteurized milk, and some have an international following. Raw cheeses are available in specialty shops, health food stores, and a few upscale markets. Warning: Some are incredibly smelly – and expensive! Your health food store is a likely source of mild, affordable raw milk cheeses that hold their shape when cut and make high-reward treats for dogs.
With more than 25 years of working with animals professionally under my belt, I don’t find many new product concepts that come as a total and pleasant surprise to me. What a delight, then, to test hands-free leashes for Whole Dog Journal and discover that the best of these products, which started making their appearance in the pet supply retail market in recent years, offer far more than just a convenient way to free up your hands while walking your dog on leash.
Few things irritate me more than having a dog constantly tugging on the leash. Thanks to my new doggie daycare center, I now find myself in the position of walking untrained dogs far more frequently than before. With some trepidation, I decided to test the hands-free leash products on my daycare dogs. The first candidate was a large, rambunctious Old English Sheepdog with poor leash manners. I buckled one of the hands-free gadgets around my waist and set out across the parking lot.
Warning: If you decide to use one of these products, the greatest danger is rampant ridicule. Be prepared to fend off guffaws and wisecracks. Just as I stepped out the daycare door with MacDuff attached to my body, my landlord stepped out of his office across the blacktop parking lot, and broke into uproarious laughter. I smiled boldly, waved, and continued on.
When MacDuff reached the end of the leash and began to pull, I stopped. It was surprisingly easy to let my hips and lower back absorb the mild impact. MacDuff, feeling no give in the leash at all, quickly backed off the end of the leash a foot or so. I started forward again. It took just a few repetitions of the stop-start routine for MacDuff to realize that if he wanted to get to the grass to relieve his bladder he had to stop pulling.
I was amazed. I had tried the same routine earlier that day with this 80-pound bulldozer on a traditional leash, with no improvement whatsoever in the pulling behavior. I can only surmise that despite my best efforts, when he pulled on the regular leash there was a certain amount of give in my arm. With the waist-belt it was much easier for me to effectively prevent him from moving forward at all, thereby preventing him from getting any reward for pulling. I found the hands-free leash just as effective with several other pullers, from Pete the black Lab-mix to Jeep, the Boston Terrier.
I was concerned initially that the concept of a waist-leash might be contraindicated for someone with back problems. Dog walkers with such a condition should consult with their physician before using this product. But one of my clients with a bad back and a big Rhodesian Ridgeback found the hands-free leash much kinder to her back. When Gator pulled on a traditional leash, it torqued her sideways. With the hands-free leash, she could brace squarely and absorb the shock evenly and comfortably across her hips.
The only remaining concern I have is the size and strength of the person relative to the size and strength of the dog. Anyone walking a dog on a hands-free leash must outweigh the dog by enough to act as a solid anchor when the dog pulls. Children or frail people would not be any more able to control a pulling or lunging dog with a hands-free leash than they would be with a regular leash; in fact, the hands-free model could very well put them at risk of being toppled over or even dragged by a very large or strong dog. And while some of the products are marketed as being a useful accoutrement for joggers, I personally would not want to be suddenly yanked by the waist by a lunging dog while running.
As daunting as this concern sounds, I do think that hands-free leashes have something to offer the average person and the average dog. One definite advantage is the freedom granted to those of us who train with a clicker and treats. No longer do you have to juggle the leash, clicker, and food rewards – you’ve got one hand for the treats and one for the clicker; the leash takes care of itself. Need to scoop a pile of poop? Again, no worries over trying to manage the leash while doing the plastic bag thing. Have a problem with the dog pulling the leash out of your hand and taking off down the street without you? Not anymore!
As always, WDJ looks for value in the products we review. Convinced that the hands-free leash concept had something to offer, we focused on the criteria of cost, quality of materials and construction, safety, comfort, and ease of use as we tested four different models to see how they fared.
Please note that in this discussion, our “Safety” criterion relates to the product’s ability to hold the dog securely, without exposing him to harm. Because (as we already discussed) all of these products pose some risk of tripping or dragging the handler if used inappropriately (such as with a strong, untrained dog and a small or weak handler), we regard them as equally safe for the handler. We did note which products include quick-release snaps; such snaps could protect a handler from being dragged by an out-of-control, strong dog. However, releasing the dog, obviously, would expose him to the many dangers of being loose.
Unique designs
Often, when we review specialty or “niche” products, we can find only minute differences in the products’ designs. But each of the hands-free dog-walking products we reviewed takes a very different approach.
For example, the High Sierra Walk-A-Belt is all about the dog walker’s comfort. This was the first hands-free product we tested, and the one that convinced us that hands-free was a wonderful concept.
The Walk-A-Belt’s comfortable design is unparalleled. As the name suggests, this product is simply a belt that a person can use for anchoring a leash – you have to provide the leash! The belt comes in two styles, felt- or fleece-lined, both made of top quality materials and more than two inches wide for maximum comfort. The belt rests on your hips rather than around your waist, to provide maximum safety and comfort. The nylon straps are strong and well-stitched, with sturdy metal and plastic fittings. Buckle the belt on, snap the handle of your dog’s regular leash into the carabiner provided for this purpose, and off you go! One model has a sturdy plastic buckle; another has a strong metal snap. You also have the option of ordering one with a quick-release snap.
If you are training a dog who pulls, the High Sierra Walk-A-Belt would be the most comfortable and secure for you to wear.
The J. M. Rogers Company’s Dog Jogger is a very serviceable hands-free belt and leash combination. It is exceptionally well constructed, with high-quality nylon webbing, sturdy plastic clasps on the belt portion, and a strong metal snap that attaches to the dog’s collar.
We prefer the extra wide webbing on the belt of this brand over the narrow straps of the Safe Pet and Buddy System brands that follow. Although the fabric is not our favorite kind of soft and smooth nylon, its width enables the belt to be worn resting comfortably on the hips rather than snug around the waist. While the lack of padding makes the Dog Jogger less comfortable that the White Pines belt, it also makes it cooler – a significant factor in summer heat and humidity.
We appreciate the detachable leash feature: The leash snaps easily on and off the belt and can be held in the hand as a regular leash when desired.
The Safe Pet Hands-Free Leash is the least-complicated product we examined. Made of high quality, strong, soft, and supple webbing and sturdy plastic fittings, this is simply a nylon leash that terminates in an easily adjustable loop that clips around your waist. Should you choose, the loop can be minimized to a hand-sized loop and function as a regular leash as well.
We liked this product, and its coolness around the waist, but, as with the Dog Jogger, we found the waist fit less comfortable than the hip-hugging White Pine model.
The Buddy System hands-free leash incorporates numerous innovative features not found in any of the other models we tested. One innovation is a quick-release collar attachment that makes it easy to release and reattach your dog quickly. The quick-release buckle at the end of the leash also enables you to snap the end back to the waist belt if you release your dog, so you don’t have to carry the leash as you walk or jog. Cool!
It’s also extremely adjustable. The leash can be shortened or lengthened (from 22-40 inches) while attached to the belt, and also can be used as a regular leash when released from the belt. The company also offers “Extra Buddy” ($16) an extra piece that enables you to attach a second dog to the waist belt, and “Extend-A-Buddy” ($6), a piece that increases the length of the leash by 18” to 36”. Plus, the Buddy System comes in a wide variety of sizes. Their “little dog” model (for dogs under 20 pounds) uses three-quarter-inch webbing and costs just $18. The larger dog models use one-inch webbing, and come in three human waist sizes, from 22-40, 27-50, and 33-60 inches.
However, in our opinion, the nylon material used is of a slightly lower quality than that used in the Safe Pet product, the stitching on the seams appeared a little minimal, and on the item we tested, the metal collar snap was extremely stiff and difficult to release. If the company were to improve the quality of materials used, we would give this product our top rating. However, a person who wants 20 different ways to secure his dog to his body would probably like this product best, even as it is now.
The BP Jogger takes a totally different approach to the hands-free concept. It’s a leash made of a 24-inch plastic coil that stretches to 72 inches, with a Velcro-fastened cuff that is secured around your upper arm.
We don’t like this product for this particular application. The company’s literature explains that as the plastic coil extends when the dog pulls, its tension increases, which encourages the dog to stop pulling. We thought it worked in the exact opposite way. Despite the increased tension, the ability to stretch, we think, rewards the dog for pulling – he gets to move toward whatever he wants to see or sniff.
We liked the idea of the coiling leash; the fact that it could keep you from having to constantly release and take up the slack when the dog moves around is an attractive concept. But, in practice, the stretchiness prevents the handler from effectively restraining the dog within the Jogger’s six-foot limit. If a dog were to dart ahead of you at a bad time, there wouldn’t be much you could do to stop him. It’s like grabbing a dropped phone receiver by the middle of the cord – because the cord stretches, the receiver hits the floor anyway. It would be great, though, if you were walking somewhere that was perfectly safe for a dog to range around a six-foot perimeter.
Then there is the matter of fastening this leash to your upper arm; we found it to be an uncomfortable way to carry a leash, and the discomfort increases when a dog pulls. If you are really excited about the coiling feature, consider the BP Walker made by the same company – not at all a hands-free product, but the same coiling leash with a nylon loop handle on the end.
Regarding your review of toy balls (“Best Dog Ball Brands for Playing Fetch,” WDJ August 2001): We give a wholehearted FOUR stars to the Jolly Ball at our house, and from two years experience with them, I have to disagree with the reasons you rated this a three-star toy. Our dogs (one of which is a dead ringer for the one pictured) are brutal with their two Jolly Balls. Neither ball has been destroyed, and quite frankly, the dogs love them so much that I have to hide them so we can play MY favorite game: Frisbee.
The Jolly Ball is also very easy for me to throw. I fling it by the handle. My husband kicks it like a soccer ball. It’s easy for the dog to pick up and it looks adorable hanging out one side of our dog’s mouth, as seen in the enclosed photo.
We vote four stars and four paws up for this one!
-Tina McGugan Palatine, IL
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I have to comment on the review of the Jolly Ball you put in the August 2001 issue. You state that it held up well, despite a few tooth marks in the ball, even after several days of play.
I’m wondering what dog breeds you used for this test. I have a three-year-old male Whippet who has chewed off most of the handle and that was the first time I gave it to him over a year ago! I doubt it has improved since then, but he is only allowed to play with it when I am with him and can take it away when he starts to chew the handle.
I recommend that you print something about the Jolly Ball not being a good toy for super-chewers and to never leave a dog alone with it for long.
-Stephanie Russell via e-mail
We’re sticking with our assessment and rating of the Jolly Ball. All of our test dogs love the balls – but some of our test dogs have trashed their Jolly Balls. My sister’s Jack Russell Terrier, Patrick, chewed the handle off within days. As we mentioned in the sidebar (Safety First: Use Common Sense), “Leave no toy unattended with any dog, anytime.” A compelling case for this admonition is contained in the following letter.
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I have been breeding, showing, and training dogs for more than 15 years. I am also a professional dog groomer. I do everything with my dogs: conformation, flyball, obedience, and everything else.
I bought the Teaser Ball and within less than three minutes of having it, one of my Jack Russell Terrier’s had her head STUCK in one of the outside holes. It did not appear that this would happen, but it did. If I had not been standing right there she may have been seriously injured or even broken her neck. It was very difficult for me to remove the ball it was that stuck on her neck.
Please let your readers know of this danger. I am in no way a novice dog owner and I did not expect this to happen. I do not want anyone’s dog injured.
-Coleen Timmons, Stealth Terriers via e-mail
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Choosing the Right Shelter Dog
Just a few comments on your article about Sue Sternberg’s shelter dog evaluations (“How to Choose the Best Shelter Dog for Your Family,” WDJ July 2001). As you noted in your article, Ms. Sternberg is very rigid in her requirements of potential adoptees. If all dogs lived up to her ideals, they probably wouldn’t be in a shelter to begin with.
I, for one, wouldn’t think of harassing my dogs while they were eating (to test for temperament?). Would you like to be prodded while you were eating? Many of her issues are valid, but we would certainly eliminate the overpopulation problem if we euthanized dogs that didn’t comply with her requirements.
We all know that most shelter animals have issues that with a little love, work, and understanding can be resolved. I believe anyone that strictly adheres to these adoption guidelines is better off with a stuffed animal.
-Susan Miller Carmel, NY
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Thanks so much for your article on selecting the best shelter dogs. I volunteer at my local shelter, and I cry every time we have to euthanize sweet, quiet, wonderful (sometimes older) dogs who have stayed too long in the shelter. Many of these nice dogs are not adopted because people would rather take home a puppy, or a “tough-looking” dog, or a dog that looks like one they saw on TV. People pick dogs for the stupidest reasons! And it’s incredibly hard on the dogs (and the shelter staffers) when a dog goes home with a family that is obviously not ready or able to deal with its challenges – food aggression, fighting with other dogs, awful leash manners, whatever – and is returned to the shelter a few days later. Often, after a bad experience, people will decide not to get a dog at all.
Any dog who passes all of Sternberg’s tests will be a good candidate for any family. Well-mannered, safe, and affectionate dogs should never have to be put to sleep so that people can try (and usually fail) to make a challenging, aggressive dog get along in a world unsuited to its temperament.
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I know hes supposed to say it himself, but hes just a dog. So we say it for him: Hi. My name is Rupert, and Im a fetchaholic.
Rupe is my Border Collie, and hes got a real problem although he doesnt see it that way. When he drops a sodden tennis ball at our feet, his eyes glazed and unfocused in anticipation of a fetching fix, my husband and I ignore the ball and pat his head, instead. Rupe, the first step to recovery is admitting that you have a problem, we tell the uncomprehending junkie, who ducks our pats and nudges the ball closer to our hands. That first step is a giant leap for Rupert, who sees nothing wrong with his addiction to fetching.
The problem is, like many addictions, my dogs fetching can be destructive to the people around him, and even to himself. Rupert has definitely hurt a number of others in his blind pursuit of fetching pleasure. He has crashed into people, run over peoples bare feet, knocked over peoples drinks, spoiled peoples picnics you name it. Once someone throws something for him, hes going after it at top speed.
However, hes borne the worst damage, himself. Rupert lacks any sense of self-preservation when hes fetching; hes lost teeth, hes had sprains and bruises, and, one memorable time, he was knocked out cold by a baseball bat, running up silently behind a friend who was hitting baseballs to another friend across our horse pasture. (The guy with the bat threw the baseball up in the air and then swung at it, just as Rupert leaped up from behind him to try to catch the ball a hideous sight I chanced to witness from my kitchen window.)
In another horrible incident that occurred in his first year of life, he once scraped every bit of his paw pads off, leaving a trail of bloody pawprints, after (unbeknownst to me) a witless boyfriend played fetch with him in a paved alley. (When I grilled the boyfriend, incredulous that anyone could be so stupid as to keep throwing a ball for a dog that kept running and skidding on the concrete, he answered, I didnt think he was hurting himself; he kept chasing the ball and bringing it back . . . My God! Rupert would fetch until he had nothing but bloody stumps to return on, if someone let him.)
Ill take the credit for helping him survive into his still-active 11th year. The only reason hes made it this far is because, since those early days of his worst mishaps, I have exerted iron and often unpopular control over Ruperts fetching habit. When he spots a potential thrower, hell run to find a fetch item (any little twig will do, but balls and flying discs are best), and hasten to drop it at the persons feet, backing up fast to indicate his keen interest in fetching. No, no, no, I have to call out. Dont do it; hes not allowed to fetch. Some people are respectful and theyll stop; others cant resist and throw it anyway, and I have to tell Rupert to Down! before he flies across the street or into a bush or wherever the thrown item flew. Those people are not invited back.
The only place and time I do permit Rupert to fetch is at an uninhabited park (free of potential crash victims), on a lush, thick lawn (he loves to skid to a halt when he reaches the item, and hes prone to losing those paw-pads), and with one of the two fetch items that pass my safety inspection: soft balls or flexible flying disks. Otherwise, hes liable to hurt himself or others.
Of course, this means Rupie does not get to fetch all that often; the planets dont line up that nicely every day. Thats okay; hed have self-destructed a long time ago if I didnt exert absolute control over his fetching habits. I guess that makes me co-dependent . . . and thats okay, too. I keep him out of harms way, and he keeps me happy. It works for us.
Given the potential duration and magnitude of a Lyme disease infection in your dog, we think it’s pretty important to do something to protect your dog from ticks, especially in areas where cases of Lyme are common. This is one of the instances where you have to weigh all the factors against each other – in this case, your dog’s health and vulnerability, the risk of his exposure to ticks, the prevalence of Lyme in your area, and the tick-repelling and tick-killing products available to you – to decide what you are going to do to protect your dog. It’s not an easy equation; it’s more of a complicated algorithm. Let’s look at each of these areas and how they interact.
Tick-Killing Chemicals and Your Dog’s Immune System
Say your dog is vibrantly healthy – no chronic skin problems, no recurrent ear infections, no mysterious digestive ailments, and no chemical sensitivity that you have noticed. He may not have any problems with an occasional treatment with a pesticide.
Unfortunately, a small percentage of dogs (or people in their families) can’t tolerate the use of powerful insecticides. Some respond with nausea, vomiting, tremors, and even seizures when exposed to even low concentrations of tick-killing chemicals. Others suffer skin reactions: hair loss, rashes, and sores. Animals with compromised organ function or a history of chemical sensitivity may suffer a general health setback after treatment.
Doxycycline
In a study published in the New England Journal of Medicine, researchers at New York Medical College tested the once-controversial strategy of administering a one-time dose of doxycycline immediately after a tick bite, and found that this effectively prevents the development of Lyme disease. The findings have important implications for dogs as well as humans living where Lyme disease is widespread. For those who prefer not to use even a single dose of antibiotics, the swift administration of medicinal herbs and other products that kill bacteria may have a similar result.
The researchers also discovered that Lyme appeared only if a tick had been attached to the skin for 72 hours or longer, verifying the research of Dr. Max Appel. In addition, there was no risk of Lyme if the tick was flat and had not become engorged with blood.
The doxycycline test, led by Dr. Robert Nadelman, was conducted in Westchester County, NY, which has one of the highest rates of Lyme disease in the world.
Your Dog’s Tick Exposure
If you live in an area where there are few or no cases of Lyme disease (among people or dogs), or your dog never has the opportunity to come into contact with ticks (this may be true for many city-dwelling dogs), you may be among the lucky few who don’t have to worry about Lyme disease prevention.
But there are many places where, especially in the tick’s most active time of the year (April through October), any dog that leaves the pavement will end up with ticks. And dogs that spend a lot of time afield will come home loaded with the pests. (The ticks that carry the bacteria that cause Lyme disease include the deer tick and the western black-legged tick; however, other ticks can carry and transmit other diseases, including Rocky Mountain spotted fever, babesiosis, and erlichiosis).
Also, some individual dogs seem to be more attractive to ticks than others. Holistic practitioners often regard an animal’s susceptibility to parasites to be a sign of poor or compromised health – a result of a sputtering immune system or, in more esoteric terms, weak life energy or chi. However, anyone who has been the target of more mosquito bites than his campfire companions might beg to differ; maybe some people (or animals) actually do “taste better.”
Whatever the cause, you might find it necessary to do more to repel ticks from one of your dogs than the others. You may not have to dose each of your pets to the same extent to provide a similar level of protection. Instead, treat each dog as an individual. If you have one dog that tends to attract more ticks, use more repellents (and vigilance) with that dog, and, as long as the ticks stay away from your other dogs, less with them.
Prevalence of Lyme Disease
According to the Centers for Disease Control, in the United States Lyme disease is mostly localized in states in the northeastern, mid-Atlantic, and upper north-central regions, and in several counties in Northern California.
In areas where Lyme is common, the risk is greatest in residential areas surrounded by woods and/or overgrown brush. Venturing off paths and into grassy areas increases a person’s or dog’s exposure to ticks, who sit on grass leaves, waiting for any warm, carbon dioxide-exhaling body to approach. They begin waving their arms as soon as they detect such a candidate and grab ahold!
Tick Repellents and Killers
There are also a number of commercially produced herbal preparations that some owners swear keep ticks off their dogs.
CJ Puotinen, author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, says she alternates between a topical repellent made by Heart Foods called Tickweed Plus, and a neem-based repellent called NeemAura Naturals Herbal Outdoor Spray made by NeemAura. Tickweed Plus contains tickweed, neem, pennyroyal, lavender, and other herbs; NeemAura’s product contains neem, myrrh, lemongrass, orange, citronella, and other oils.
Adam’s Flea & Tick Mist Farnam Pet Products Pyrethrin
Liquid spray
Kills and repels ticks
As needed; no more than 1x per week
Puppies less than 12 weeks
No
Pyrethrins are natural extracts of the chrysanthemum plant. They affect the nervous system of insects and kill ticks quickly. Products that contain pyrethrins are generally applied directly to the dog.
Bio Spot Farnam Pet Products Permethrin
Liquid spot application
Kills and repels ticks
Monthly
Puppies less than 12 weeks
No
Permethrin is a synthetic pyrethrin compound that affects the nervous system of insects. In this application, it is used in an oil carrier that helps distribute the chemical over the dog’s body; the permethrin is stored in (and gradually released) from) the animal’s sebaceous (oil-producing) glands. Permethrin lasts longer than natural pyrethrins and is more toxic.
Defend Ex Spot Schering-Plough Permethrin
Liquid spot application
Kills and repels ticks
Monthly
Puppies less than 4 weeks; dogs with known organ dysfunction
No
Permethrin is a synthetic pyrethrin compound that affects the nervous system of insects. In this application, it is used in an oil carrier which helps distribute the chemical over the dog’s body; the permethrin is stored in (and gradually released) from) the animal’s sebaceous (oil-producing) glands. Permethrin lasts longer than natural pyrethrins and is more toxic.
Frontline Merial Fipronyl
Liquid spot application
Kills ticks
Monthly
Puppies less than 12 weeks
Yes
Fipronyl blocks the passage of chlorine through cells in the tick’s nervous system, paralyzing the insect. In this application, fipronyl is mixed with an oil carrier that helps distribute the chemical over the dog’s body; the fipronyl is stored in (and gradually released from) the animal’s sebaceous (oil-producing) glands.
Revolution Pfizer Selamectin
Liquid spot application
Kills American dog ticks only
Monthly
Puppies less than 6 weeks; dogs treated with other topical flea/tick preps; use caution with sick, weak or underweight dogs
Yes
Selamectin blocks the transmission of the insect’s nerve signals; the tick dies of paralysis. Unlike the other liquid, spot-application products, Revolution enters the dog’s bloodstream through the skin, eventually passing into the sebaceous glands and onto the skin and hair. This product is said to control only American dog ticks — NOT the deer ticks that commonly carry Lyme disease.
Preventic Collar Virbac, Inc. Amitraz
Chemically impregnated collar
Kills ticks
4 months
Puppies less than 12 weeks
No
Amitraz-laden collars kill ticks by inhibiting the function of their nervous system; ticks are paralyzed and die before or shortly after attaching to dog. Amitraz has little or no affect on fleas. May be used in conjunction with other flea and/or tick treatments.
Dietary Supplements as Tick Repellent
Some holistic practitioners say that adding bitter herbs to a dog’s diet can actually make him less attractive to ticks. Juliette de Bairacli Levy, author of The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat, developed a supplement for this purpose that is now manufactured by Natural Rearing; the herbal antiseptic tablets contain garlic, rue, sage, thyme, eucalyptus, and wormwood.
While neem is most frequently seen as a topical agent used as an insect repellent, first-aid therapy, and to treat a variety of health problems, neem also improves digestion and helps make animals less attractive to fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, and intestinal parasites. Puotinen recommends giving dogs one 500-mg. capsule per 10 pounds of body weight daily.
Beverly Cappel, DVM, of Chestnut Ridge, New York (heart of Lyme country), makes a nutritional supplement called Fleas Flee that contains brewer’s yeast, liver, and oyster shells. Dr. Cappel regards the supplement as very helpful for making dogs less attractive to fleas and ticks, but reminds clients that a supplement should not be regarded as a sole line of protection. (Fleas Flee can be purchased from Dr. Cappel by calling 845-356-3838.)
Thorough and Frequent Tick Checks
The war on ticks can’t take place on just one front; you have to devote time and constant vigilance to prevent sneak attacks on your dog. Practice these anti-enemy missions on a regular basis:
• Check for ticks during and after every outdoor venture. Especially examine your dog’s legs, armpits, belly, neck, and face. Ticks naturally travel toward dark and/or warm, blood-rich areas of the dog. Remember: The goal is to find the ticks when they are still tiny, before they are engorged with blood. The transmission of the Lyme-causing spirochete does not happen until 24 hours after the tick begins feeding.
• Take extra time to examine your dog for the presence of ticks when the pests are at their most active. Ticks increase their movements in mid-morning, from about 8am until about 11am; the largest number of ticks emerge on sunny days. Ticks are also most active from April through October.
• Using a flea comb helps detect and remove tiny ticks. Drop the ticks you find into a container of tick-killing solution. Do not squish them or toss them away; the tiny creatures can survive this treatment.
Virtually every dog food on the market complies with the labeling regulations and meets the nutrient standards suggested by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO); go look at the fine print on your dog’s food label. It will have one of two statements on it, indicating which of two AAFCO standards it supposedly met: either a “feeding trial” or chemical analysis of the food. The problem is, that particular food may have passed neither test itself.
What?
Let’s back up.
We’ve talked about AAFCO before (see “Who’s in Charge?” WDJ December 2000). It’s a nongovernment, voluntary, advisory organization of state feed control officials, who interact with and influence state and federal feed industry regulators. Most states require that dog food made and/or sold in their borders meet a standard meant to guarantee nutritional benefit to the dogs who eat it, and most states use AAFCO-developed standards.
AAFCO uses two methods to “prove” that a food is adequate to the task of keeping dogs alive. The first is a feeding trial, where the food is fed to a certain number of dogs for a certain amount of time, and as long as most of the dogs live, the food gets to go to market with a label that says something like, “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (product name) provides complete and balanced nutrition for (life stage).” Never mind that, in our opinion, these trials are woefully inadequate; we’ve discussed that before and we will again in the future.
The second standard is basically a chemical analysis that confirms the food contains levels of nutrients that fall within a range determined by AAFCO to be sufficient to support canine life. The way it’s supposed to work is that foods that have not been tested in a feeding trial have labels that say, “(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO nutrient profiles.” Again, never mind that we and many other pet food-industry critics take issue with the nutrient profiles. We’ve got other fish to fry today.
Pet food ‘families’ Here is our problem: AAFCO recently amended its regulations to allow foods that are comparable in nutritional adequacy to a food that actually passed a feeding trial to bear the exact same label claim.
A food that has passed an actual feeding trial can now serve as the “lead food” for a “family” of foods; and the standards required for the “family members” are not nearly as rigorous (if we can use that verbiage in relation to pet food production) as for the lead food.
To be in “the family,” a food must meet the following criteria:
• The moisture content must be similar to the lead food. This requirement simply ensures that dry foods stay in a dry food family, a canned food is in a canned food family, etc. For example, both the lead food and any family members must be under 20 percent moisture (“dry” foods), 20-65 percent moisture (“semi-moist” foods), or over 65 percent moisture (canned foods).
• The “metabolizable energy” (ME) content of the family member must be within 7.5 percent of the tested food – which more or less means they should have similar calorie counts. This must be validated by feeding the family member food to six animals for 10 days. The first five days are so the animals can acclimate to the food. During the last five days, the animals’ stools are collected and their energy content assayed by calorimetry. The difference between the amount of food eaten and the amount of stool excreted, with a correction for urinary losses, equals the ME of the food.
This is the only time that the “family member” foods must be fed to live animals before they arrive at the retail store shelves.
There is an optional test for ME that uses calculations rather than the feeding protocol, but it is unlikely that any manufacturer will ever use it, because it would have to state outright on the label that the food is “comparable in nutritional adequacy to a product which has been substantiated using AAFCO feeding tests.” Rather than admit that on the label, manufacturers will most assuredly use the relatively lenient 10-day ME test.
• The family member must also meet the levels contained in the lead food for a few crucial values: crude protein, calcium, phosphorus, zinc, lysine, and thiamine. (For cat foods, the family members must also meet specified minimums of potassium and taurine.)
• The family member may claim adequacy for only the same or a less-demanding life stage than the lead food. (Life stages are, in descending order of demand: “all life stages,” “gestation/lactation,” “growth,” and “maintenance.”)
• Finally, the family member must meet or exceed the nutrient levels of the lead food or as specified by the AAFCO Nutrient Profiles for all other nutrients, whichever is lower.
Good news for manufacturers This is very good news for the pet food manufacturers, because they no longer have to perform expensive feeding tests in order to market a food with the feeding test claim – a “higher” standard in most consumers’ eyes. This gives family member foods a potential marketing advantage over foods that “only” meet the requirements of the AAFCO Nutrient Profiles.
The new family rule also allows food makers to fast-track the development and marketing of new formulas. In case you were wondering, this is the mechanism that has permitted the rapid proliferation of such things as special formulas for dogs with sensitive skin or tender tummies, breed-specific formulas, and odor-reducing formulas on the shelves of your local pet superstores and grocery stores.
Bad news for consumers Is it good news for you? True – it has resulted in a much wider selection of foods to choose from at the store.
But until recently, we used to be able to trust that, if a food claimed it had been tested using AAFCO feeding protocols, it had at the very least kept a handful of dogs alive for six months. Now, we have no assurance at all, because we can’t tell which food is a lead food that was really tested, and which one is the copycat. This is particularly bad news because the lead food, which has passed feeding tests, is not itself required to meet the AAFCO Nutrient Profiles. Thus, a family member food could be significantly below the recommendations of the Nutrient Profile for many nutrients, yet never be required to prove it can keep animals going, even for six months. Small differences in formulation could mean big differences in how digestible and bioavailable certain nutrients are to the dog, but the only way you’ll find this out is when your dog develops a problem because of it!
I know I keep saying this, but it’s another case of “let the buyer beware!” Always keep an eye on your dog when trying out a new food to make sure it’s working for him. He should have good energy, a normal appetite, clear eyes, a shiny coat, no dandruff, and normal stools. If anything seems “off,” look to his food first for the cause.
On the other hand, if your dog displays every sign of good health and has no worrisome symptoms of chronic health problems (such as recurrent ear infections, “hot spots,” or digestive troubles), don’t give in to the impulse to switch to the newest food on the pet store shelves just because its bag is newer, shinier, or cheaper, or labeled as just right for Airedale-crosses from the East Coast or all dogs with “sensitive skin.” It’s probably an untested newcomer to a over-accepting “family.”
-By Jean Hofve, DVM
Dr. Jean Hofve is the Companion Animal Program Coordinator for the Animal Protection Institute, located in Sacramento, California.
You are at your wits’ end. You were gone for less than an hour, and when you returned home, your dog Maxx had already destroyed your new sofa, defecated on your antique Oriental rug, and inflicted deep gouges in the just-repainted front door frame.
You have tried leaving him in the backyard, but he chewed through the fence and got picked up by animal control. You tried crating him, but he scraped his toenails bloody and broke a canine tooth trying to dig and chew through the crate door. When you left him in the garage he tore everything within reach to shreds. When you left him in a covered chain-link dog pen on the back patio, you got complaints from three different neighbors about his nonstop barking and howling. You’ve even tried showing him the damage and punishing him for it, but it hasn’t helped. You hate to think of giving him up, but you don’t know what to do with him. If he would only behave himself when you are away from home.
Maxx has separation anxiety – a behavior problem that results from a dog’s natural instincts to want to be near other members of his pack. It is a normal survival instinct, but one that can often be derailed early in a pup’s life through proper conditioning (see “Learning to Be Alone,” WDJ July 2001). For you and Maxx, however, it’s too late for the proper early stuff. Mad Maxx already has a full-blown case of separation anxiety, and now you need to try to fix it.
Conditioned response
It won’t be easy. Separation anxiety is a panic attack – your dog’s classically conditioned response to the terror of being left alone. When you walk out the door, Maxx doesn’t sit around and muse about whether or not to eat the sofa. Separation anxiety behavior is not a conscious choice – it just happens.
In fact, his anxiety begins before you even leave the house; your dog can tell from your morning routine whether this is a get-up-and-go-to-work day (which leaves Maxx home alone) or a relax-and-stay-at-home day. As soon as Maxx determines that it’s a work day, he starts to worry, and every step in the routine increases his anxiety. The 5a.m. alarm clock. The rush to put Maxx out to potty and then toss him his food dish. The shower and shave. The suit and the shiny shoes instead of blue jeans and sneakers. Coffee and a banana instead of bacon and eggs. The grab for the briefcase and car keys, the pause at the front door for dramatic hugs and kisses to Maxx, and the fervent admonitions to behave himself while you’re gone.
Phew! By the time the door closes in his face and you rush down the sidewalk to the car, Maxx is already worked up into a high state of arousal. He makes no conscious decision to go on a destruction binge – he is simply stressed to the max. Effective ways for him to relieve his stress include chewing, digging, urinating, defecating, and vocalizing.
Anxiety or hijinks?
Most separation anxiety behavior happens within 30 minutes of the owner’s departure and within a similar period before the owner’s anticipated return. This is one of the keys to determining whether Maxx’s behavior is truly an anxiety reaction or simply a bout of puppy hijinks.
If you can leave and come back in an hour to an unscathed home but four hours puts Maxx over the top, chances are you’re dealing with boredom, excessive energy, or a housetraining issue rather than true separation anxiety. (Some dogs will become destructive in their efforts to go outside to relieve themselves if they are very committed to not soiling the house.)
If, on the other hand, your dog displays immediate signs of anxiety upon your exit, he’s a candidate for SA retraining. If you can just get the anxious dog through the first half-hour or so, and avoid raising his anxiety level at homecoming time, you are usually home free. Simple – but not easy.
This task is best accomplished through a program of counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) – fancy terms to describe getting Maxx to like something he now intensely dislikes or fears. In this case, the “something” is being left alone.
The challenge with using CC&D for separation anxiety is that ideally you start with a very low level stimulus that the dog can tolerate, associate it with something wonderful (like the dog’s favorite treats), and gradually work up to a level of normal stimulus, while taking care not to trigger the unwanted response during the process.
If you are desensitizing a dog to loud noises, for example, it is relatively easy to prevent his exposure to noisy environments between training sessions. It’s considerably more difficult for the average pet owner to design a schedule that leaves Maxx alone for no more than a few seconds at first, then minutes, then hours, during the weeks or months that it takes to build his tolerance to being alone. If you are truly committed to working through the problem, and have the time and energy, you can get through this.
Managing Maxx
So, where do you start when you can’t confine him, you can’t trust him loose in the house or yard, and you can’t punish him? What are you supposed to do with a Mad Maxx who is rapidly wrecking everything you possess? You need to do two things:
• Manage his environment while his behavior is being modified so he can’t hurt himself or destroy the things around him.
• Using counter-conditioning and desensitization, teach Maxx that it is safe for him to be alone.
Let’s start with the easy one: managing the environment. This means not leaving Maxx alone until he has decided that being alone is okay. You might be able to find a friend, neighbor, or relative who is home during the day, where Maxx can stay and be safe. Perhaps you are fortunate enough to work in a place where your dog could come to the office with you. It never hurts to ask!
Doggie daycare is another excellent option. Commercial daycare centers are thriving in an increasing number of communities around the country; there might be a good one near you. Be sure the daycare operator knows that Maxx has separation anxiety and understands how to deal with it – that he can’t be left alone and must not be punished for anxiety-related behavior.
Sometimes, although only very rarely, getting another dog can help. If you are considering this, you should only get a second dog because you want one and are committed to keeping the newcomer whether it helps Maxx’s problem or not. Be careful – you could end up with two dogs with separation anxiety/destructive behavior!
Finally, there are pharmaceuticals that have appeared on the market relatively recently that purport to help with resolving a multitude of canine behavior problems. Clomicalm (clomipramine hydrochloride) is the one most commonly prescribed for separation anxiety, but must be used in conjunction with a good behavior modification program in order to be truly effective; the drug alone will not solve the problem.
Maximized training
A behavior modification program will help your dog understand that he can survive being left alone. Depending on the severity of the problem, this may happen relatively quickly, or it may take a long time and never be completely resolved. If you have a Velcro dog who can’t even tolerate you being in the next room, you will need to start with very small steps. Here’s one program for working with separation anxiety:
1. Teach your dog to accept a tether with you standing right next to him (See “Tethered to Success,” WDJ April 2001). When he is comfortable on the tether, take one step away, say “Yes!” before he has a chance to get upset (or Click! your clicker, if he is clicker-trained), then step back to him and feed him a treat. Repeat this step until he shows no sign of anxiety when you are one step away. Be sure that you remain very matter-of-fact about stepping away. If you get excited or emotional, so will he.
2. Now, gradually increase the length of time that you remain one step away before you “Yes!” (or Click!) and return, until he will tolerate your one-step distance for a full minute or longer. Vary the longer times with shorter ones, so he doesn’t start to get anxious about the exercise getting harder and harder each time. You want him to never know how long you will be gone, and at the same time you are teaching him that you always return.
3. Now take two steps away, say “Yes!” and immediately return to feed him a treat. Repeat at this distance until he is comfortable with you being two steps away, then again gradually increase the time at this distance.
4. Very gradually increase the distance, repeating the exercise at each new step until he is calm, then increasing the time at each new distance. If he panics at any point, you have moved too quickly – go back to the previous distance and work there again until he is calm. The take another half-step, if necessary, to avoid triggering his panic.
5. When he will remain calm while you walk to the other side of the room, sit down, and read a magazine, you are ready for the next phase. Start the exercise as before, but this time walk to the doorway to another room, step outside briefly, “Yes!” and step back into the room before he has a chance to get upset that you are out of sight. Return and reward. Repeat this until he is calm about you stepping out of the room, and then gradually increase the length of time that you remain out of sight.
6. Now, sometimes close the door as you step out of the room, briefly at first, then for longer periods.
7. Do the same exercise with each of the doors leading from the room, including the door that leads to the outside. Sometimes leave the door open, sometimes close it. Be sure to return and reward each time before your dog goes into panic mode. If he starts acting anxious at any time, slow down, and go back to a part of the exercise that he can tolerate. Then, when he is calm, proceed more slowly to the step that upset him.
8. Now take him off the tether and repeat Step 6, closing the door each time to prevent him from following you out of the room. Start with very brief departures, so he doesn’t have time to start digging at the door. Gradually increase the length of time you are out of the room, but remember to intersperse the longer ones with short ones so he never knows how long you will be gone. Remember, too, to remain calm yourself. If you start getting anxious or excited about the process, so will he.
9. When he is comfortable with you stepping outside for several minutes, start adding bits of your departure routine to the exercise. Pick up your keys, step outside briefly, return, “Yes,” and reward. Then put the keys down. Go outside, open and close the car door, then come back inside. “Yes” and reward. As he gets better with pieces of the routine, add more pieces.
10. Assuming that you drive a car to work or school, the next step is to actually start the car engine, then come back inside and reward. Start the car engine, then vary the amount of time you wait before coming back in to reward. Drive down the driveway, then drive back to the house, come back in and reward. Your goal is to gradually increase the length of time you can be outside to 30 minutes or more. If you can hit the magic 30-minute mark, you are well on your way to success.
Pacing is key
Be sure to proceed through these 10 steps at a pace that your dog can tolerate. Short, successful sessions at first (five to 10 minutes), are better than long, frustrating sessions that end in failure. You may be able to proceed through the steps in a week or two if your dog’s separation anxiety is mild, but it is more likely that it may take you several weeks, or months, to work up to 30 minutes. If you aren’t making any progress at all, talk to your veterinarian about adding Clomicalm to the equation.
Fixing separation anxiety is hard work, and it’s easy to get frustrated with your dog’s destructive behavior. Remember that he’s not choosing to do it out of spite or malice – he is panicked about his own survival without you, his pack, there to protect him. It’s not fun for him – he lives in the moment, and the moments that you are gone are long and terrifying.
If you make the commitment to modifying his behavior and succeed in making him brave about being alone, you will not only have saved your home from destruction, you will have enhanced the quality of your dog’s life immensely, and perhaps saved him from destruction, too.
The powerful Akita lunges at the Scottie, her mouth agape, teeth flashing. With a guttural growl, her jaws close around the neck of the little black dog. She pins the wiry terrier to the ground, where he struggles, belly up, in a fruitless attempt to sink his own teeth into his attacker’s leg. As a handful of spectators laugh from a nearby doorway, the Scottie’s struggles subside until he is motionless on the floor, the Akita pinning him to the ground with her superior weight.
What horror is this? Are we witness to the awful bloodsport of underground dogfighting? Far from it. Rather, this is a perfectly happy scene from a perfectly well-managed dog daycare center. Shortly after the Akita pinned the Scottie to the floor, the little black dog leaped up unscathed, chased the big dog around the room three times, and then took his turn pinning her to the floor amidst a reciprocal chorus of happy growls and snarls. It’s all in a day’s play.
Once upon a time, it was commonplace for groups of dogs to wrestle and romp together. Farmers and ranchers kept at least several dogs at a time: some to herd livestock and protect the homestead, some for hunting, one or two to kill rats in the barn, and maybe an unusually fortunate small house dog. The dogs had the run of the farm, romped and ran together, and led doggie lives. In a society more casual than today’s, even town dogs tended to roam freely in compatible packs, sorting out their differences with an occasional scuffle that rarely turned into anything serious.
In modern society, our dogs are more likely to stay at home, safely confined to the house or the fenced backyard, plied with vaccinations, toys, and regular meals. As a result, while many of today’s dogs live longer, healthier lives than their ancestors did, they also miss out on socialization and exercise with their canine pals.
Most dogs today also lack the stimulation of a real job – the herding, hunting, ratting, carting, or guarding that they were bred to do. Left home alone all day while their families are at work and school, they are bored, lonely, restless, and unemployed. Without the opportunity to interact regularly with others of their own kind, they even forget how to speak “dog,” and when they do meet up with other canines they are often socially inept, fearful, or aggressive. The sad result is a growing population of pets who exhibit inappropriate behaviors in the home, and who are “not good with other dogs.”
Daycare to the rescue
Enter the rapidly growing phenomenon of commercial doggie daycare. Our ancestors would have laughed heartily at the notion, but an increasing number of dog owners are realizing the benefits of paying to provide their dogs with a day full of activity and supervision. Imagine the relief of owners who realize (often too late!) the difficulty of housetraining the new puppy when no one is home to take her outside regularly; now they can happily drop Puddles off at daycare in the morning, knowing that the staff can further the pup’s understanding of proper potty behavior. Those who have dogs with separation anxiety can stop administering tranquilizers (and stop taking them themselves), knowing that their house is not being systematically reduced to toothpicks in their absence.
In addition, in a well-supervised daycare program, Timid Tess can learn how to be a dog. She won’t be allowed to run with scissors, and she will learn how to play well with others. Bouncing Bob, who now spends his days at home sleeping, storing up energy for wild greetings and demands that you pay attention to him when you get home, can romp with his pals all day and come home just as exhausted as you are after a tough day at the office. A tired dog is a well-behaved dog.
Many doggie daycare programs also offer training packages, grooming services, pickup and delivery, and will even transport Fido to his vet appointments for you. Others go above and beyond, including massage, aromatherapy, and hydrotherapy in their service packages. Some provide you with photos to take home – action shots of Fido and Friends at play. Still others hold special events, such as holiday parties and outings to nearby dog-friendly parks, for you to socialize with your dog’s pals and their owners. You might even find one that operates a retail pet supply store for the convenience of one-stop shopping for your dog’s food, training tools, toys, and other accessories.
Many benefits
A dozen doggie daycare operators polled recently on a daycare e-mail list were in almost unanimous agreement that the top two benefits of their services were exercise for Fido – which tires him out and promotes good manners, and the opportunity for him to socialize with other dogs – an important ongoing experience if Fido’s owner wants him to be friendly with others of his kind.
They also listed numerous other benefits, including socialization with humans, relief from boredom, prevention of destructive behavior, a chance for the dog to have fun, and a lessening of owner guilt, for those who feel badly about leaving Fido home alone all day. All of these benefits help to create a strong bond between dog and owner; a relationship that is vitally important in order to ensure that the dog will be a beloved family member for the rest of his life.
Daycare operators offered words of wisdom to owners looking for a suitable facility for their dogs.
Jamie Lewis, of Zip A Dee Doo Dog Daycare, near North Hollywood, California, stressed the importance of having knowledgeable and caring staff, who can provide constant supervision and monitoring of the dogs. From responses to the poll, a ratio of one staff person for every 10 dogs seems to be the accepted norm, ideally with a second person on the premises at all times in case of emergency.
Cleanliness and safety, which go hand-in-glove with vaccination requirements and disease control, were also at the top of the list for almost all of the operators who responded. Several emphasized the importance of confirming that the staff’s dog handling and training philosophies are in alignment with yours, and making sure that the dogs actually play together for most of the day and are not simply stuffed into crates or kennels.
Amy Preston, owner of My Dog’s Place in Mystic, Connecticut, voiced the feelings of many of the daycare operators regarding a comprehensive screening process for potential canine clients.
“Unfortunately, not all dogs are suited for daycare,” Preston says. “We screen three times, the first time over the phone. If nothing pops up there, we mail them an information packet that includes all the good stuff about daycare, as well as the risks and requirements, and a lengthy questionnaire that tries to uncover everything from food bowl aggression to grooming needs. If this doesn’t scare them away, we make an appointment for an intake interview, where we carefully introduce the dog to our own dogs, one at a time, starting with the most mellow dog of the opposite sex. Although this may seem daunting, clients should see that this is in the best interest of their dogs. Careful screening will help create a safer environment for all.”
Mary Watcher of Animal Watchers & More, Inc., in Vermilion, Ohio, joined several of the other operators in cautioning owners to beware of overcrowding. A general rule of thumb is to allow 100 square feet for each large dog; 50 to 60 square feet for small to medium-sized dogs. This should be an enriched environment, offering toys to play with; obstacles for the dogs to run under, around, and through; hiding places and beds for dogs who want a time-out; and matted floors for safety.
Robin Barbour of Puppy Playland LLC in San Ramon, California, summed it up. “Use your own good judgment. If you get a bad feeling about the intake process, or anything just doesn’t appear ‘right,’ don’t leave your dog there. You are putting your faithful friend’s welfare in someone else’s hands. Make sure you are comfortable doing so.”
The right stuff
Not surprisingly, doggie daycare centers have an endless supply of anecdotes that they are willing to share – some funny, others poignant.
Kellyann Conway of Maritime Pet Kennel, Inc., in Tarpon Springs, Florida, tells of Alex, a Doberman client who had been coming to daycare religiously, once or twice a week, for the five years since they had opened. One day Alex’s mom called the center to tell them that Alex had been diagnosed with a rare liver disease and, according to his doctor, probably only had a month or so left to live. Because Alex loved daycare so much, she wanted to continue bringing him for as long as possible. The Conways agreed, as long as the veterinarian agreed. Alex lived for another 15 months. Owner and vet were both convinced that the combination of exercise, fun, and friends, as well as the anticipation of going to doggie daycare, kept Alex going. His blood counts taken the day after daycare were always noticeably improved, and he even ate all of his food on daycare days.
Just like us, having something in life to look forward to and enjoy can keep our dogs happier, healthier, and better behaved. Maybe it’s time to look for a doggie daycare center near you.
Few among us have not at one time or another hefted a ball, drawn our arm back, and pitched it with all of our strength while urging our dog to retrieve. Dogs across the decades have obligingly charged after the small round prey-object and eagerly brought it back for another go. What is it about the basic ball that brings joy to canine and human hearts alike?
A rousing game of fetch is a team sport; it requires a thrower and a retriever. Dog and owner work together, or the game doesn’t happen. This partnered activity helps to cement the dog/human relationship. It’s also a perfect outlet for a dog’s excess energy. The ball-fetching dog gets to satisfy his hard-wired instinct to chase and catch prey, while benefiting from the regular exercise that promotes good physical and mental health. Besides, there is something intrinsically soul-satisfying about watching a dog in hot pursuit of a ball, stretching his legs in full flight across open space, whether it’s with the lithe grace of a sighthound, the determined strides of a retriever, or the scrabbling charge of a stubby-legged terrier.
Once upon a time, the tennis ball was the ubiquitous dog toy. In recent years, dog-toy makers have waxed creative; today’s canine consumers have an impressive variety to select from. There are little balls, big balls, rubber balls, plastic balls, balls on ropes, balls that float, balls that make noise, and balls that dispense treats, to mention just a few. What are the qualities that distinguish average balls from super balls? We compared our past favorites with some newer models from pet store shelves and the pages of pet supply catalogs.
We settled on the following criteria to use in our search for the perfect ball: durability, safety, aesthetic appeal (canine and human), and, of course, value – cost compared to function. The ideal ball is indestructible, endlessly engaging, and not all that expensive! The perfect orb serves many purposes – as a training tool, fetch toy, or a prop for tricks. The safest ball may also keep Fido self-entertained when the humans are gone (see “Safety First,” below.) Like all dog toys, the best balls will invite attention and play from both dog and human, and should be priced affordably and consistent with their quality.
We selected nine new balls to test, choosing products that appeared to fit our criteria, and tested each to see if they fulfilled their promise. We also re-examined three of our favorites from past reviews. Here are our findings:
Click here to view “A Focus on Safety, Durability, and Cost”
Click here to view “One Dog Toy Does Not Fit All Dogs”
Let’s face it: Most dogs aren’t crazy about going to the vet. And why should they be? After all, vet visits are stressful at best. They often mean a new environment, slippery floors, and even more slippery exam tables. Vet offices are full of funny smells, scary sounds, strange people, and unknown animals. Plus, the poking and prodding they are subjected to can be uncomfortable and sometimes even painful. It may be overwhelming for even the most easygoing dog.
Reasoning with your dog may help some (“Oh, honey, it’s for your own good!”). But what will help even more is getting your dog accustomed to the types of experiences that he is likely to encounter on visits to the veterinarian. The following seven tips can help you help your dog learn to tolerate the occasional “well-dog” health examanination. They will also help your dog be better prepared to accept necessary medical treatment in case of a serious illness or injury.
1. Take your dog by the vet’s office, just to say hello.
“One of the best things you can do,” says E.V. Sharp, DVM, of Creekside Veterinary Hospital in Soquel, California, “is just to stop by every once in a while. Bring your dog in, weigh him, and walk out again.” New places are sometimes anxiety producing – just because they are new. Stopping by occasionally reduces your dog’s anxiety by simply transforming the vet’s office from an unknown to a known environment.
Better yet, take along some great treats, preferably something that is incredibly special to your dog like steak or hot dogs. Ask the receptionist, the vet tech, and even your veterinarian to give your dog a few treats, too. If you have a puppy, start your “social” vet visits as early as possible. But don’t worry if you have an older dog or a dog that is already anxious about vet visits. Fun and happy social visits can dramatically reduce an adult dog’s stress level too.
Be sure to call ahead and tell your vet what you want to do. Ask if there is a good time to stop by for a few minutes. You’ll want to make sure that your social visit is convenient for the vet and the office staff. You’ll also want to make sure they are not dealing with an emergency or an infectious disease at the time of your visit.
2. Take the time to touch your dog everywhere, every day!
Getting your dog accustomed to being touched all over is essential for your dog’s comfort during an examination. In a routine exam, a veterinarian may look in your dog’s eyes, ears, and mouth, listen to his heart and lungs, touch and probe his belly, manipulate his joints, and take his temperature. Dogs that are handled, petted, and touched all over daily will be less likely to perceive this as invasive, and more likely to regard it as affectionate (if somewhat personal!) touching.
In addition, when you regularly spend time touching your dog, you will be more likely to notice changes such as lumps, swelling, or tenderness that may indicate health problems.
One great way to help your dog learn to tolerate being handled is to make it part of play and relaxation. When you play rowdy games such as fetch, wrestle, or tug-o-war with your dog, you can encourage the game and help your dog tolerate touch through play pats, ruffling his fur, and gentle roughhousing. When you spend quiet time with your dog, stroke and pet him all over. Play with your dog’s ears, muzzle, belly, and around his tail. Try holding your dog’s paw while you rub his tummy. Massage his shoulders and hips. Stroke your dog’s ears and gently place your finger inside the ears. Touch around his legs and in between his toes.
“It’s also a good idea to pinch them every once in a while,” said Dr. Sharp. Not hard of course, but enough that a little needle pinch for vaccinations or drawing blood won’t be a totally unusual experience.
Another very important part of this routine is to take note of your dog’s sensitive spots. Most dogs have one or more spots where they prefer not to be touched. Some dogs don’t like to have their paws touched. Others may not like their hips, ears, or tails touched.
You can help even the most reluctant dog accept the handling of sensitive areas with a little patience and some great treats. Have your dog near you in a comfortable position. Then feed your dog his favorite treats while briefly touching the sensitive spot. For example, if your dog is sensitive about having his paws handled, gently and quickly stroke your dog’s paw and then give him a slice of hot dog or another great treat. Once your dog is happy about the brief touch (because he knows the hot dog is coming!), you can leave your hand on his paw just a little bit longer before giving him the treat. Gradually work up to holding the paw, then giving gentle squeezes, and eventually touching between his toes. (For more details on this technique, see “Classical Conditioning,” WDJ June 2001.)
Don’t try to rush it or push your dog to do anything that is uncomfortable. The goal is to help your dog learn to accept or even enjoy being touched everywhere. If your dog exhibits any aggression around being touched, please consult with a behaviorist to help you work through the problem.
When your dog is happy about being touched all over, ask friends, a trainer, or other family members to touch your dog, too. The more dogs are accustomed to being handled by different people, the easier it will be for them to be handled during regular vet visits or in the case of an illness.
Remember being a kid and wanting to dress your animals up? That can actually help, too! “If your dog enjoys it, put things on them,” Dr. Sharp said, laughing at the idea. Bandanas, doggie sweaters, booties, dog packs, and other items can help your dog accept things like bandages or Elizabethan collars if the need ever arises.
3. Play with your dog’s mouth.
“Probably the hardest thing we deal with regularly are dogs who are not used to having their mouths handled,” says Dr. Sharp. She recommends brushing your dog’s teeth regularly to help them get used to having their mouths handled. “It really pays off! It’s good for the dog and the vet. It can extend times between teeth cleanings, too.” With some dogs, Dr. Sharp notes, it can even mean the difference between being able to perform teeth cleanings with the dog awake and having to give the dog anesthesia.
In Dr. Sharp’s opinion, it’s not as important to brush the teeth really well as it is just to do it! Even brushing the outsides of the teeth can make a big difference. Always use canine toothpaste; people toothpaste isn’t safe for dogs. Plus, the great flavors available in doggy toothpaste, such as chicken, beef, or malt, can make brushing all the more enjoyable for your dog.
Another good exercise is opening your dog’s mouth, looking in, and then immediately popping a treat in his mouth. Your dog will learn that your opening his mouth means treats are coming.
Dogs can also learn to enjoy having their mouths’ handled if you dab a little peanut butter, yogurt, or cottage cheese on your finger and then rub your finger over your dog’s gums or along the roof of his mouth. Your dog will get used to having fingers in his mouth, plus he’ll get a special taste treat.
4. Get your dog used to being leaned over, held onto, and picked up.
Even dogs that are handled regularly can have a tough time when someone leans over them, holds them down, or picks them up – understandably so! But during routine vet visits and especially during an emergency, your dog may need to be lifted onto a table, the veterinarian will need to lean over your dog, and your dog may need to be held for vaccines or exams as well as for emergency procedures.
Bending over your dog from various positions in play and other activities can help him learn to accept this behavior from humans. In addition, you can help your dog tolerate being held through everyday affectionate behaviors. For example, if your dog enjoys a good belly rub, try reaching over your dog’s shoulder to rub his belly. In our home, for example, we routinely kiss the tops of our dogs’ heads, reach around their shoulders to rub their tummies, and give them great big gentle bear hugs. All of these activities are fun, and help our dogs accept and even enjoy being leaned over and held onto (plus we get lots of dog kisses in return!).
Smaller dogs are more often used to being carried, but for some larger dogs, the only time they are physically picked up is at the vet’s office. That in and of itself can be a traumatic experience. You can set up specific training times to familiarize your dog with being lifted, or you can incorporate this into regular activities. When you groom your dog, for example, consider lifting him on to a low table. If you are not sure how to lift your dog properly (for your safety and his), ask your veterinarian, groomer, or trainer to show you how to easily and safely pick up your dog.
5. Teach your dog to sit, stand, lie down, and turn around.
Basic training can really help lower your dog’s stress at the veterinary clinic. Your dog will be a whole lot more relaxed if you can ask him to move his own body, rather than having to push, pull, or cajole your dog into position.
The basic behaviors that are essential for ease during vet exams include:
• Sit and down. Because many dogs want to flop over or slink away instead of holding still, knowing sit and down can make it easier on both your dog and the vet during an exam.
• Relax. Also known as “roll on your side,” this trick is great for positioning dogs when the vet needs to scrutinize just one side of your dog.
• Stand. This is another basic position that is good for specific exams. Plus, it’s easier to pick your dog up from a stand if you need to lift him onto the table.
• Turn. Veterinarians often want to turn your dog so that he is facing a different direction on the table. Instead of having to physically move your dog, a simple turn behavior (carefully if they are up on a table) can eliminate the need for having to physically manipulate them into position.
A few other behaviors that may also be helpful include:
• “Touch” or “Target.” If your dog is trained to touch your hand with his nose on cue (see “Right on Target,” WDJ March 2001), then you can use a hand touch to help move or position your dog, or to move his head up or down. It may also be useful in helping dogs if they need to be given nose drops!
• Shake. Also called “give me a paw,” this exercise can help turn foot examinations into a fun activity for your dog!
• Watch me. Any type of eye contact exercise is a good tool to turn his head in a particular direction, but also this is a great exercise to keep your dog occupied while being examined.
6. Familiarize your dog with a muzzle and crate, just in case!
Getting your dog used to wearing a soft muzzle doesn’t mean your dog is bad, or that he will necessarily bite. For some dogs, using a muzzle is a good way to ensure safety if the vet needs to examine a sensitive place. And, even sweet, gentle, and well-socialized dogs can bite when they are threatened, scared, or hurt; it’s an instinctive and normal reaction. Plus, a dog that is seriously ill or has suffered a painful injury may lash out without even realizing what he is doing.
Purchasing a soft muzzle (the fabric kind with an opening on the end that allows your dog to take treats while wearing) and helping your dog learn to wear it comfortably can become a fun game – and it will ensure that your dog is prepared, just in case.
To help your dog learn to wear a muzzle, simply hold a treat on the “nose” part of the muzzle. Let your dog put his nose through and take the treat. Have your dog do this several times every day for a week or more. When your dog becomes excited when he sees the muzzle (because he knows it means treats), you can slip it on for a few seconds, feed your dog a treat or two, and then take it right back off. After a week or more at this stage, you can start leaving it on for a few seconds at a time and gradually increase the time. Keep this game fun!
Once your dog can comfortably wear the muzzle for a few minutes at a time, you can put it away and bring it out occasionally to remind your dog how much fun the muzzle is to wear. Then, if your dog ever needs to wear a muzzle during an emergency, he will be prepared.
Crate training your dog is equally important. Crates are not only wonderful aids for house training, they also make comfy sleeping quarters and provide safe travel compartments. Your dog’s ability to settle into a crate can mean the difference between a stressed-out dog and a comfortable dog if he should ever need an overnight stay at the veterinary hospital.
“We can really tell when a dog is crate trained,” said Dr. Sharp. “The dogs who are crate trained, go in and lie down.” Dogs who aren’t crate trained more often bark or cry from being confined.
7. Liberally employ treats and toys.
When you do take your dog to the vet for a regular exam or for treatment for an illness, be sure to bring along treats or toys to help reinforce your dog’s good behavior. Be generous with your rewards and really let your dog know when he is doing a good job.
Use chew toys to help dogs who tend to “hide” in the waiting room; this helps many dogs feel safer and more secure. Some dogs will lie under a chair (preferably behind your feet) with a chew toy and settle in until it is their turn to see the vet. You may also want to try TTouch or other types of relaxing massage to help your dog “de-stress” while in the waiting room (see “A Calming TTouch,” WDJ May 1999).
Many dogs who are nervous in a vet’s office do very well when given a “job.” I’ve been known to run through my dogs’ entire “trick” repertoire in the waiting room because it keeps my high-energy working dogs focused and relaxed.
Your vet may also find it useful to employ your dog’s favorite toy or treat. Dr. Sharp recalls dealing with a Border Collie whose stress reaction manifested itself through aggression; she won him over by playing ball with him in the exam room! “This was a Flyball dog,” said Dr. Sharp, “and playing ball totally broke through his aggressive behavior.”
Keep up the good work!
After your dog has become well-accustomed and trained for trips to the vet, it’s a good idea to continue with your daily handling and occasionally stop by the vet clinic just to say “hello.” And, if your dog has been doing great at the vet and then suddenly, after a traumatic visit, does an emotional backslide, don’t worry! Just read back over these tips and re-acquaint your dog to the different elements involved in vet visits. You can help your dog recover and learn to again relax during regular vet exams.
-by Mardi Richmond
Mardi Richmond lives in Santa Cruz, California, where she teaches Agility for Fun classes and writes about dogs. She is the co-author of Ruffing It: The Complete Guide to Camping with Dogs.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
