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Managing Canine Behavior

Family members look forward to September and “back to school” days with widely divergent emotions. Some kids would like the freedom of summer to last forever. Others look forward to the return to football, social activities, even studying. Parents tend to breathe a sigh of relief in the fall as a relative calm settles over the household. But what about Duke, Buddy, and Muffy?

September can be confusing for dogs who have grown accustomed to the constant attention of human friends over the summer. This is an especially difficult time for puppies, acquired in June, who have never been left alone for as many as eight to 10 hours a day. Suddenly the pup is abandoned by the pack, and an animal who would rarely be alone for long periods in his natural environment is left to his own devices for several hours at a time. Small wonder that this is the time when housetraining commonly breaks down, destructive behavior erupts, human tempers flare, and dogs are either banished to backyard isolation, returned to breeders, or dumped at animal shelters.

Dog trainers speak of “managing” behavior to prevent behavior problems. In addition to providing a safe, appropriate environment for your dog (see “In The Doghouse, page 18 of this issue) and gradually acclimating your dog or puppy to being left alone, you can chase away your dog’s abandonment blues and keep him occupied during his long hours alone by giving him entertaining, well-constructed toys. Of particular value are toys that immediately engage the dog and keep him busy for at least 20-30 minutes after the owner’s departure, since the majority of destructive separation anxiety behavior occurs during that period.

WDJ evaluated several canine toys and chew items from the “back-to-school” perspective. Our primary criteria for endorsement were safety, durability, attractiveness to the dog and ability to attract and hold his attention.

Also With This Article
Click here for “Another Round of Dog Toy Testing”

-By Pat Miller

Author Pat Miller, a dog trainer and freelance writer from Salinas, CA, regularly reviews products for WDJ.

Dog Friendly Home Set-Ups

Twenty-five years ago, a friend of mine found two abandoned black-and-tan coonhound pups by the side of the road. He took them home and immediately called a real estate broker, thus beginning his search for a house with a fenced yard and ending his years as an apartment dweller. This same dog owner recently purchased the car of his dreams, only to discover that his dog’s crate wouldn’t fit in the back seat. He returned the car the next day.

We all make accommodations in our lifestyles for our dogs. We come straight home from work instead of stopping off at the pub for a beer with the office gang, because Buddy has been in the house for nine hours and has to pee. We break off a promising relationship because the new neurosurgeon boyfriend is allergic to Smokie. We stay home on the 4th of July rather than going out to watch fireworks, just in case Charley panics from the popping of neighborhood firecrackers. We never wear black or navy blue, because our Golden Retriever’s hair shows too easily on dark colors.

Those are good examples of how some of us arrange our affairs to make room for our dogs. But others carry this notion further – they rearrange their homes to make rooms for their dogs. They knock holes in walls to put in doggie doors, search high and low for fur-resistent furniture fabrics and floor coverings, and even construct separate furnished houses for their furry friends!

If this strikes you as going too far, consider this: Building and decorating your house in a completely “dog-friendly” manner makes it easier to keep clean and flea-free. It also reduces the number of ways that Fido can inadvertently ruin your day by ruining your decor.

Baby Gates and Dog Crates

One of the simplest, most common approaches to managing life with Lassie is the strategic use of baby gates and dog crates. Faith White runs Shar-Pei Rescue in Anchorage, Alaska; has seven dogs of her own; teaches puppy classes; and also occasionally boards dogs for friends. She has eschewed carpeting; her house is tiled throughout for easy maintenance and cleaning. White has gates across her front porches, a dog room off the living room, and uses a kiddy wading pool for a toy box. Because Alaska weather can be harsh (and all of White’s dogs have short coats), in the winter she tarps off an area in the backyard for a windbreak and puts down sawdust to create a protected potty place.

Joan Weintraub of Tiverton, Rhode Island, has ten dogs in her home, which is also her place of business. With customers coming and going all day, Weintraub uses a combination of training and crates to keep the dogs out from under clients’ feet. The office/entertainment area is on the first floor, and dogs are trained to stay out. The rest of the downstairs is wide open dog space, with flooring that is easy to clean and disinfect.

Dog Hair Protection

Keeping a multiple dog household clean is an ongoing challenge. While lots of us resort to ripping up and discarding carpeting in favor of easy-to-maintain vinyl or tile flooring, Pat Wenzel of Wenwood Corgis in Gladwin, Michigan has resigned herself to vacuuming and carpet cleaning.

“I have a standing appointment every six months with the carpet/furniture cleaners,” she says, “and in between, blankets cover all the furniture.” Wenzel also claims ownership of six different vacuum cleaners, each with a specific purpose.

“First,” she explains, “you have your super heavy-duty canister that is absolutely impossible to clog with hair. I recommend the Rainbow. You will need the multiple attachments that it comes with for those pesky underneath places. Then you need a regular upright for those occasions when you need to do a real quick job and don’t feel like dragging the other monster out. This one can be used only occasionally, and never during major seasonal shedding. (The hardware store people think you’re a riot when you bring it in to be de-haired.) The small, hand-held type is a must for the furniture, and the battery operated Dirt Devil mop/vac is invaluable for the utility room and kitchen floors when 24 muddy feet come flying in after a rain storm. And who could live without a regular Dirt Devil for those little ‘so-and-so knocked over the (fill in the blank)’ accidents? Another heavy-duty canister-type vacuum is obligatory in the garage for use in the cars, and then, of course, there’s the Bissell “Little Green Machine” for in depth carpet/furniture spot cleaning.

In addition to her financial investment in cleaning, Wenzel has taken other steps to ensure canine and human comfort.

“R.C. Steele (the pet supply mail order catalog) is my interior decorator,” she says. “Instead of saving money for new people furniture I am presently saving up to purchase custom-made wooden dog crates that will look like furniture but still hold dogs.” Wenzel even had central air conditioning installed in her home – for the dogs’ comfort, not her own.

Doggie Doors and Puppy Pens

Many dog owners recognize the risks inherent in giving a dog free run of the fenced yard when no one is home. Uncontrolled barking can irritate neighbors, resulting in complaints to animal control, or worse, retaliation through poisoning or theft. Meter readers and pool cleaners inadvertently leave gates open, allowing Benji to escape. Bored dogs learn how to dig holes or jump fences. And inclement weather often precludes outdoor housing. Still, the reality of today’s working couples means that Buddy is often left home alone for ten hours or more; an uncomfortably long time to expect him to keep his legs crossed.

Wendy Katz, of Lexington, Kentucky, and Joanne Cook, of Denver, Colorado, both discovered similar solutions to this problem: a doggie door from the house to a fenced outdoor pen where the dogs can go to relieve themselves, but still have access to all the comforts of home. Katz installed her dog door in a back door of her house that leads to a pen with 6′ fencing. The pen is chain link on two sides, and has solid cedar slats on the side facing the neighbor’s house. It is shaded in summer by stately oaks and a crabapple tree. The dogs have run of the downstairs when Katz is away, with access through the door to the pen.

Cook’s door goes through a wall into the garage where the dogs stay during the day, thereby protecting the house from doggie destruction, and leads to a sheltered chainlink pen the length of the garage wall.

Pam Sheehan of Broken Arrow, Oklahoma, went one step further for her pack of tiny Yorkshire terriers. She put a doggie door in the window of a small back room, and built ramps on both sides of the window leading to an outside pen. Speaking of steps, Sheehan also has step stools by her bed and sofa so the Yorkies can easily jump up!

Taking Dog Accomodation to the Next Level

Then there are those dog owners who push the envelope, making even more of a commitment to canine accommodations than the average dog enthusiast. Lisa Wright and her husband moved out of the city to a 90-year-old cabin on 160 acres in Edmonton, Alberta (Canada) in order to provide a proper environment for their pack of Newfoundlands. For 18 months they lived in the cabin with no running water and just a wood stove for heat (in a climate that reaches 40 degrees below zero), while they built their new house. The house has a heated, all-tile floor – no carpets. The dogs have their own room that opens to the living room via a Dutch door, as well as a dog-door out to their dog run. The Wrights sleep in a loft to which the dogs don’t have access, although Lisa will sleep in the dogs’ room when puppies are imminent.

When Teoti Pullie and her husband, of Lexington, South Carolina bought their new house in 1997, the room over the garage was unfinished so they did the obvious – turned it into a room for the dogs, now nicknamed “the nursery.” The Pullies don’t have to worry about how to keep their dogs out of the trash or off the sofa when they aren’t home – they know the dogs are safely playing in their own custom-designed room.

“The construction guy,” says Pullie, “thought I was nuts. I wanted a window unit that provided air conditioning and heat. He said they didn’t exist. When I found the unit I wanted in a catalog he said, ‘You don’t need heat. Those units are expensive – you can get a cheaper unit just for air.'”

When Pullie asked him, “Don’t you think it’ll get cold up here in the winter?” he replied, “It’ll be warm enough for dogs . . .”

“Not MY dogs!” Pullie snapped. She got the unit she wanted.

Pullie had another argument with the carpet people. She wanted Berber. They kept showing her Astroturf. She held out for the Berber. It’s tough, she says, and hardly shows the dirt. She also had custom, adjustable shelves built into one wall for all the doggie equipment, added three light fixtures to the ceiling, and installed two ceiling fans. To top it off, she painted the room sky blue with Wedgewood blue highlights, stamped paws and bones on the doors, and applied a wallpaper border with a puppy pattern complete with Kong toys.

The stairs to the room are through the garage, where a handy utility tub sits for washing off muddy paws. “I do wish I had a raised tub in there for baths,” Pullie muses. that’s probably just a mater of time!

Val Maurer of Hartville, Ohio, also created a custom canine-friendly room for her Border Collie rescue work. She turned a spare bedroom into a rescue room, complete with a closet that she converted into a walk-in shower for the dogs. The room also has cabinets for equipment, food and first-aid supplies, an array of crates for all sizes of Border Collies, and a window curtain made of an old comforter to muffle the sight and sound of lightning and thunder.

Very few dog owners go as far as Sandra Wornum, who has Salukis and does sighthound rescue in her Larkspur, California home. Wornum built a completely separate, one-room granny unit for her dogs, where the elegant sighthounds lounge on futons and listen to music on the stereo or watch videos on the television set. Wornum has had as many as a dozen or more large dogs in her home at one time. Being able to rotate them from “their” house to hers has enable her to maintain her home and her sanity while still giving the dogs individual attention and socialization.

And Then Some…

The list of ways that we accommodate our dogs in our lives is virtually endless. We make strange demands on our real estate agents when we are looking for a house to buy:

“Nope – the stairs to the deck are too steep for my three-legged Lab. The back yard is too small for my Aussies to chase tennis balls. Can’t live next to a school – the kid’s’ll make the dogs bark. Hot tub? No way . . . what if Pippin falls in?”

We make it equally hard for agents to sell our homes. Not everyone appreciates the value of a walk-in dog shower, a bare dirt yard (fewer fleas, and easier to scoop poop), or windows throughout the house that come to within a foot of the floor (so dogs can look out without jumping).

Non-doggie visitors clumsily negotiate baby gates, look askance at dog crates that double as end tables, and ridicule pieces of furniture that belong to the dogs. Families tend to write us off as eccentric. (Oh let’s be honest – they think we’re nuts!) But in the end, the ones who really matter – our dogs, and our dog-loving friends – appreciate and understand the efforts we put into creating a home that minimizes the stress and maximizes the joy of living life with Lassie.

Answers from Experts: September 1998

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In this expert answers from the backlog of Whole Dog Journal our experts answer readers concerns training small dogs, two of which came as complete surprises, and looking after dogs outdoors with non-toxic lawn care for a less chemical laden environment for pets and family.

Training Small Dogs

Last September I adopted a Shih Tzu couple who were on their way to the pound. I was led to believe the female was spayed. The male I had neutered a week after they got here. But 64 days after they moved in, I awoke to the shock of my life; the female had two puppies. I have since had her spayed.

Now, with four of these little dogs in the house, it’s becoming critical that they get a little better trained. I bought book about Shih Tzus recently, which was informative in many regards except when it comes to training them. The pictures and text were geared toward a large dog! I have perused many books in bookstores to find one that deals specifically with training a small breed. The only thing I ever found is the toy breeds need to be dealt with differently. I can’t see myself putting a choke chain on something that only weighs 14 pounds. The adult ShihTzus are pretty good but the puppies are like small children always testing the limits.

 

 

-Angelika Mercer
Honey Brook, PA

We sent this question to Bill Stavers, a dog trainer and animal behavior specialist from Beverly Hills, CA. Stavers assists veterinarians as the staff trainer/behaviorist at the Wilshire Animal Hospital, is the behavior consultant for the Huntington Hospital pet assisted therapy program, and is a certified animal evaluator for the Delta Society. He teaches dog training in classes and private lesson, using only positive reinforcement (no choke collars!) and offers telephone consultations for problem-solving.

You didn’t say what kind of misbehavior is concerning you, so I’ll address the general concept of training small dogs.

You’re right; choke collars and force are not the solution for any dogs, and may be especially inappropriate for little dogs. At the risk of using a stereotype, most small dogs (such as Jack Russell Terriers, Fox Terriers, and Shiba Inus) and some of the Northern-bred dogs (like American Eskimos, Huskies, Spitz, and Norwegian Elkhounds) don’t respond well to punishment; they get mad if you hurt them. The bigger working dogs are different. If you punish a German Shepherd or a Labrador, they tend to quit or give in: “OK, OK, I’ll lie down here,” They were bred to take orders, to work. More independent dogs don’t respond well to that approach.

The thing to use is food.

Even as recently as a few years ago, using food treats was considered taboo. People worried that if you used food to train a dog you would always have to use it for the rest of the dog’s life. But in recent years, people have begun to see that using food to train is an incredibly effective way to reinforce desirable behavior.

I would suggest you go buy Karen Pryor’s book, “A Dog and A Dolphin,” which is about using food and other reinforcers to create and reward behavior. ($7 from The Dog & Cat Book Catalog, Direct Book Service, 800-776-2665.) The book lays out the theory behind using food to train; it shows you how to elicit and then reward behaviors using reinforcements. It’s not about dog training per se, it’s just about how to use reinforcement. I guarantee that you will be able to use her principles to get any behavior you want from your Shih Tzus. The book is easy to read and enjoyable.

There’s no limit to what you can do. The Shih Tzus will work if you start practicing. You could have them all sitting in line, waiting for you to give each one a treat, in a matter of minutes.

A concern with food training is overfeeding. That’s why I encourage people to use feeding time as a training session. Instead of putting the food down and walking away, dole out the kibble piece by piece as you teach basic obedience routines. It takes 20 minutes, but in that time you can get them to do four sits, two lay downs, one go to your bed, and six come heres.

It’s fun.

If you decide to engage the services of a professional trainer, look for someone who is a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. The APDT offers free referrals to local trainers (call 800-738-3647). All the members use positive reinforcement, and are familiar with Pryor’s book. They meet annually to increase their education about dogs and dog training, and generally take a forward-thinking, gentle approach to training.

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Non-Toxic Lawn Care

Is there any way to kill those ugly toxic mushrooms that are growing all over my lawn? How about those slimy, ugly slugs? I don’t want to use ANY chemicals because of my dogs. The mushrooms keep coming back no matter how many times I pull them out. They grow in the sun, shade, and everywhere else it seems.

-Hillary Rosanova
Crystal Lake, Illinois

We sent this question to Eileen Rushing, a Clemson University Extension “Master Gardener, and co-owner of Interhay South, a hay and feed supplier and garden center in Camden, South Carolina. Interhay specializes in organic gardening products, and offers an organic lawn maintenance service.

I’m glad you’re adverse to using chemicals on your lawn. Dog and cat owners need to be especially careful about using anything toxic on their grass and there are plenty of toxic things you could use for your problems! Fortunately, all pet owners need to do to keep their lawns looking good are to use good basic cultural practices, which I’ll outline below.

It sounds to me as if your yard is generally damp. You can help dry the yard by removing any dense ground cover, trimming bushes and hedges up off the ground, and clearing your yard of undergrowth. This will discourage the mushrooms and the snails.

Specifically regarding the mushrooms: The first thing I would do is to take a sample of your soil to the closest agricultural extension office for a general test. The most important part of the test for you is the pH test. The pH scale goes from 0 to 14; neutral is 7. Mushrooms thrive in soil with a low pH, so if your soil is found to have a low pH, the extension office will be able to tell you what kind of soil amendment you can use to bring the pH closer to neutral. That will probably spell the end of the mushrooms, and it will also probably improve the health of your lawn. If the pH of your soil is not in the middle range, then it doesn’t matter how much fertilizer or anything else you use; your plants can’t change the mineral and trace elements in the soil into the form they need.

As for the slugs: The very best trap for slugs are little dishes of beer; the slugs are attracted to the beer and the salt it in kills them. Pour a little beer in plastic coffee can lids or something similar. Of course, you’ll have to dispose of dead slugs for a while, until the population is reduced enough to make you happy, but you’ll be making progress. I’ve never used these solutions myself, but I’ve read that slugs can also be discouraged with the use of oak leaf mulch and or by drenching the soil with wormwood tea. (To make the tea, you could use a big bucket of water and a bunch of the herb; just let the herbs soak in a bucket of water for a few hours in the sun, and spray the liquid on the lawn.)

Of course, you’re correct in not wanting to use the commercial slug and snail baits; they are all extremely toxic. These poisons kill dogs and cats and all kinds of animals.

Your lawn will be able to choke out the mushrooms (and any other weeds that might be present) if you can spend a little time getting the grass really healthy. Good healthy roots will fight the undesirable conditions that make your lawn look poor and let weeds and mushrooms grow.

To improve your lawn’s health, you have to do three things: use a good organic fertilizer, and aerate and de-thatch the lawn. And of course, avoid the use of all chemical fertilizers, “weed and feed” compounds, herbicides, and fungicides. All of those things end up in our water supply, and kill animals and birds and reptiles and frogs.

The best organic fertilizer we’ve seen is a liquid seaweed extract. It’s slow-acting and doesn’t leach out of the soil, like the chemical fertilizers do. And, of course, it’s completely non-toxic and can’t harm your pets, who spend a lot of time on the lawn. The proper time to fertilize is in the early spring and midsummer

Aerators and de-thatchers can both be rented. There are all different kinds, but they all accomplish the same thing: aerators have long tines that poke into the ground several inches and loosen the soil, allowing the roots to expand and grow. De-thatchers have little tines that bring that debris grass clippings, leaf particles, and other matter up and out of the grass. This opens up the soil and allows it to breathe. All these things will improve the health and appearance of your lawn, and enable you and your dogs to enjoy it more.

Choosing the Right Dog Trainer

Dog training classes vary widely in style and quality of instruction. It is important to do research and make an informed choice before selecting a trainer. Before putting your dog’s future in a trainer’s hands, we recommend that you ask a lot of questions.

First, though, you have to decide what you want from a training class. Class styles vary, with the two primary approaches being the military-style precision training traditionally used for showing in the obedience ring, and family dog classes that are more concerned with teaching canine good manners and social skills.

The easiest way to tell the difference between the two is to ask what equipment is required. If the answer is “a choke chain, slip collar, training collar, or prong collar,” the class is probably the more formal obedience class that relies on the use of force and physical correction. If the answer is “a flat buckle collar or a headcollar,” you have found the more relaxed family dog class that uses positive reinforcement, rewards (treats) and praise – rather than jerks on a collar – to train the dog.

Choosing the Right Dog Trainer

Do Your Homework
When you find the style that appeals to you, watch a class before you enroll. Dogs and owners should appear to be enjoying themselves; if they aren’t, you probably won’t either. Make sure you like the methods the trainer uses. If you see something that makes you uncomfortable, a harsh punishment, for example, ask the trainer after the class whether what you witnessed is par for her course. She might regard the method as “necessary” for most dogs – or a rare occurrence she felt forced to try after failing with other methods. Trust your instincts about her response.

There are very few, if any, reputable dog trainer certification programs. While ongoing education is vital for a professional trainer, a brief certification course cannot provide a would-be trainer with the necessary years of dog handling and teaching experience. Look for a trainer who has had experience handling hundreds or thousands of dogs, and has taught classes for at least two years. Ask where she got her training. Her combined experiences should total at least several years of exposure to a variety of breeds and mixture of breeds. Find out what other activities are available, if not through her, then through other trainers and dog clubs in the area. Ask if her training methods will prepare you for the other activities that capture your interest.

You Get What You Pay For
Be cautious of classes offered by dog clubs and large chain pet stores. They are often less expensive than those taught at privately owned dog training schools, but they are also frequently taught by their members, who may or may not have any previous teaching experience. These classes are often large, with little individual attention given. Also, many club classes use force-based training only. Chain pet stores may advertise positive reinforcement, but often hire novice trainers with little or no training knowledge or experience. They also tend to have a high turnover, since quality trainers can do better on their own.

The cost of dog training can vary widely. Free courses can sometimes be found through clubs or city recreation departments (just remember, you get what you pay for). Group classes that meet once a week can range from as little as $45 to $125 or more for a six- to eight-week course. (The price generally reflects cost of living in the area.) Expect an average of six to eight people and their dogs in the class; larger classes should have assistant trainers to help the trainer offer each of the students at least a little individual attention. This type of multi-week course is almost always paid for in advance.

Many trainers also offer private instruction at their school or, sometimes, at your home. Expect to pay from $45 to $150 an hour for this type of one-on-one session. During a one-hour consultation for a specific behavior challenge, your trainer should demonstrate one or more approaches for resolving the behavior and watch you apply the techniques. You can also expect her to offer options for an ongoing training program for you and your dog.

Going to Class
Once you select a trainer, but before you attend the first class, try to have a brief discussion with the person in charge. Make sure he or she is aware of your goal for the class, to prevent any misunderstandings regarding the intensity (or lack thereof!) with which you pursue perfection in your dog.

Finally, don’t hesitate to excuse yourself and walk out of a class if you are told to do something to your dog that makes you feel uncomfortable. It can be difficult and embarrassing to disagree with a trainer, especially in front of an entire class full of her devotees, but remember, it’s your relationship with your dog and his trust in you that is important, not someone else’s opinion. There will always be another class and another day to get it right.

Natural Flea Solutions, Separation Anxiety and Cocker Spaniels

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More Natural Flea Solutions

I just received my first issue of WDJ, and am greatly impressed with its content. I’ve learned what supplement to add to my Sheltie’s food to discourage him from eating my Golden’s poop, plus a better hypoallergenic shampoo for my Golden who has multiple health problems. Keep up the good work – the dog world needs alternative advice like yours!

-Janice Mitchell
Maryland Heights, MO

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Separation Anxiety

I recently received my first issue of WDJ, and I was very impressed with what I saw. I too, believe in the natural approach to life for my family, both human and furry. That is why one of your articles upset me so. I am speaking of your June 1998, “Answers from Experts: Separation Anxiety.” As an animal behaviorist for more than 10 years with many more years of studies in animal science, I am writing concerning the segment of the article where the owner is told:

“If you find a scene of devastation, don’t make the mistake of sympathizing with the dog…take her around the house and show her all the things she’d done wrong, while talking to her in a very stern, mean tone of voice. I’d do this for at least a minute, but not much longer.”

I was shocked at this “expert” advice. You can NEVER punish (or praise) a dog more than 30 seconds after the act has been committed. The animal will NEVER understand what it is that you’re talking about. Especially when the behavior could have happened hours ago. . . . If you do not catch your dog in the act, the crime must go unpunished! You will create a fearful, untrusting dog.

Now I know the advice was not to yell, but to told in a “very stern, mean tone of voice.” I do not see a difference. Your dog is happy to see you and you’re acting as if you can’t stand the sight of him, for, in his mind, no reason. [The suggested approach] will not cure the separation anxiety. You may cure the symptoms, but at what cost to the human-canine bond. That is why I am an animal behaviorist and not a trainer. Trainers fix the symptoms, behaviorists go to the cause. . . .Dogs with separation anxiety cannot help what they do. They are not angry with you for leaving them. They are beside themselves with stress. Have you ever seen a two year old child get frustrated with a parent? They do a very similar thing because they are stressed out. They don’t have a concept of, “If I destroy this now, I can’t play with it later.” Much like your dog has no concept of, “If I tear this up now, when he gets home I’m going to be in big trouble.”

Your dog’s stress is coming from his genetics. Dogs are pack animals; we bring them into our homes, and then label many of their natural normal behaviors as destructive. Separation anxiety dogs miss their pack. Yelling at them for this is, at best useless and, at worst, shattering.

-Elissa O’Sullivan
Gahanna, OH

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Cocker Spaniels in Trouble

Concerning your article about “Dude,” the 2 1/2 year old Cocker Spaniel with multiple health problems (July 1998 WDJ):

I’ve been a show breeder/exhibitor of Cocker Spaniels for more than 10 years, and have some advice I’d like to pass along to both the owner and the veterinarian who answered her question.

I noticed that the owner didn’t state what color Dude is, but I have a feeling that he may possibly be a tricolor (black/white/tan or brown/white/tan). If he is indeed a tricolored dog that would explain some of his schizoid temperament . . . Tricolored Cocker Spaniels have a tendency to be complete “air heads” in my experience, they freak out easily, especially if they’re spooked, it just seems as if they never recover from it. I’ve had four or five tricolors in the past and will never again own one no matter how pretty they are because of this.

It’s become a general practice with a lot of breeder/exhibitors of many breeds, and Cocker Spaniels are right up there in this practice, to have the tonsils removed at about four to six months of age if they can’t get the puppies to hold up their heads while they’re trying to leash break them. I’ve personally never done this, but I know it’s common practice with many of the breeder/exhibitors and the professional handlers in many breeds.

Some breeder/exhibitors can’t place a physically standard correct dog into a pet home immediately if their personality/temperament isn’t standard correct. If a puppy hangs its head, they’ll have the tonsils removed to show the puppy. They’ll continue to show a puppy that spooks easily even though they know the puppy won’t do well on temperament . . . they have the hope if the puppy is physically standard correct they’ll get placed and finish another champion for their kennel.

I’m not saying that these practices are right or wrong. I’m saying that I’d never do them myself. I’ve placed puppies into spay/neuter pet homes that were a better specimen of the breed than a lot of the dogs that boast those champion crowns. It takes a great deal of money to show and campaign dogs to champion titles, and a lot of us common folks that are showing dogs for the sport of it don’t have the funds available like the folds that have unlimited resources for their kennels and need tax write-offs.

I’ve also found that Pepto-Bismol tablets work wonders for dogs with diarrhea, If you don’t want to risk using these products, use good old plain yogurt which puts the good bacteria back into the intestinal tract. You might also consider changing your dog’s diet to a lamb and rice formula, and do not feed Science Diet foods because they use a lot of chicken products, which some Cocker Spaniels don’t tolerate very well, giving them irritable bowel problems.

If you want to purchase an older show dog, I’d recommend finding out why the dog was being retired. I’d also suggest anyone purchasing an older dog to request a complete copy of all medical records when they go see the dog, or available at the breeder’s veterinarian’s office for examination before purchase. Question the veterinarian who has treated the dog. If the breeder has a lot of excuses or refuses to produce the records, do not buy the animal, don’t even look at it!

-Becca E. Thorsen
Mt. Vernon, WA

Thanks for your comments. Make sure you check out our article in the November issue about people who both show their dogs and raise them holistically. – Editor

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Miscellaneous

Thank you for the article on super blue green algae and for e-mailing me the phone number to purchase it (800-800-1300). Goliath has been on it for a month now and we definitely see a remarkable difference! He has come back to life! He used to be so lethargic all of the time, given his current condition (cancer) and his age (13) but since eating the algae he is so spunky! He acts like a little puppy and he always wants to go for walks!

I’ve learned a lot from your newsletter, please keep the great articles coming.

-Phyllis Diggs
Woodbury, NJ

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My two small dogs (both under nine pounds) and I are vegetarians, and I am writing to ask you if you would know where, by mail or Internet, I can obtain ready-made food (dry or not) for the dogs. I prepare their food all the time, but I don’t want to run into a problem if I ever have to board them for a period of time.

-Connie Lemonde
via e-mail

I’ve been feeding my dog a commercial vegetarian food off and on for a while. It’s one of several foods made by Nature’s Recipe, Corona, CA. They call it their “Vegetarian Canine Formula.” I give it to my dog because he can’t tolerate a very high-fat diet; this food has only 8% fat, and 18% protein.

Readers, do you know of others? – Editor

Fighting Cases of Heartworm in Dogs

Heartworms are horrible. No arguments there. Anyone who has ever known or had an infected dog knows how slowly but surely the parasites can sap the animal’s strength and vitality. Going through the treatment to kill the heartworm is no walk in the park either. The “cure” is quite capable of killing the dog in the process of trying to save its life.

But some people just don’t like the idea of giving the dog the chemical preventatives that can keep the pooch safe from infestation. And some dogs are sensitive to the drugs, reacting to each dose with vomiting, diarrhea, and other symptoms.

Heartworm is one of those health issues where an aggressive approach – traditional or alternative – is needed to save the dog. But the most effective approach to prevention and/or treatment combines the best of both veterinary worlds.

Preventing Heartworm

Elaborate Life
The life cycle of this insidious killer is complex, requiring two hosts – a dog and a mosquito. The heartworm’s life starts out in a dog, shifts to a mosquito for a short time, and then ends back in a dog. It’s a fascinating and deadly journey.

Living in a dog’s pulmonary arteries, adult female worms mate with males. Shortly thereafter, the females produce thousands of infinitesimally small “babies,” each less than 1/800 of an inch.

At this stage, the baby heartworms are called microfilariae (from the Greek word mikros, small, and Latin filum, thread). The microfilariae can circulate in the dog’s bloodstream for as long as two years. Scientists do not attribute any particular health problems to the presence of the microfilariae, even though the density of the microfilariae can increase over time if the parents are allowed to thrive. Veterinarians can see as many as 10-15 microfilariae in a single drop of blood from an infested dog; if you do the math, it works out to about 200,000 microfilariae circulating through an average 50-pound dog.

As ominous as this sounds, without a mosquito to carry them off to their next life stage, these microfilariae cannot develop further. If you could keep mosquitoes away from the dog for the rest of his life, the heartworm would progress no further.

Unfortunately, the world is full of mosquitoes. When one bites an infected dog, it can’t help but to ingest a couple of microfilariae with its blood meal. Inside the mosquito, the microfilariae continue their development, shortening and thickening into the first of several larval forms. It takes them two to three weeks to molt twice (going through what are called the L1 and L2 stages) and reach a form (L3) that will carry them back out of the mosquito into another dog. They can not develop further without another dog.

The larvae then move to the mosquito’s mouth, positioning themselves for their next move. When the mosquito bites another dog, the larvae are deposited onto the dog’s skin. After the mosquito withdraws, the larvae crawl into the tiny bite wound, and take up residence in the dog’s subcutaneous tissues.

The (L3) larvae spend the first week or two molting again, before taking a form (L4) that will enable them to migrate through the dog’s subcutaneous and muscle tissue. They take another 40 to 60 days journeying toward the dog’s upper abdomen and thoracic cavity. When they get about 1/10 of an inch long, they penetrate the dog’s veins and make their way to the right side of the heart, where they become full-fledged adults.

Up until this stage, a newly-infected dog shows no sign of disease. It’s only after the worms grow to adult sizes that the dog’s disease process starts. It can take a minimum of six months to more than a year from when he is first bitten by the infected mosquito for the dog to show visible signs of the infection.

Adults Only
Once they are adults, heartworms are restricted by their size from circulating everywhere through the dog’s circulatory system, but they still get around. Their preferred site is the right heart and pulmonary arteries, but they can also lodge in the veins of the liver and veins entering the heart. Very occasionally, they take up residence in other sites, such as the eye, the cerebral arteries, or the systemic arteries in the rear legs. (Worms in those sites must be treated surgically.) As they feed on nutrients they draw from the dog’s blood and tissue, they can grow to an astonishing 14 inches. Physically, their most damaging activity is the obstruction and interference with the performance of the heart valves and pulmonary arteries.

If the dog is host to enough worms, they can cause what is known as Caval Syndrome. By literally packing the right side of the heart, they cause an increase in the venous pressure in the liver, which damages the liver tissue. The liver dysfunction, in turn, changes the quality of the red blood cells the body produces, leading to a number of blood disorders. Eventually the system fails, manifesting itself in a sudden and dramatic collapse of the dog. Oddly, not all dogs with untreated heartworm develop Caval Syndrome, and the ones that do are usually younger, from three to five years.

How much damage the worms do depends on several factors, most importantly, the number of adult worms in the dog’s body and the dog’s activity level. Sedentary dogs with 25 or fewer worms may never show signs of the disease. Active dogs with the same number, or dogs that host 50-100 worms will exhibit moderate to severe heartworm disease.

Interestingly, the immune systems of some dogs are able to wage war, to a limited extent, on the heartworm cycle. An immune mediated response is thought to be responsible for some dogs ability to remove microfilariae from their circulatory system. Though the dog’s system has not displayed the ability to damage or dislodge adult worms, an otherwise very healthy dog may be able to outlive the worms, which can survive in the heart for five to seven years.

Pet Detecting
The tests that can detect canine heartworm have increased in sophistication. Nevertheless, it takes two tests to make an accurate diagnosis.

The earliest test used for this purpose, called a Knott’s test or a Filter test, consists of a simple examination of the dog’s blood under a microscope, and is still used today to detect the presence of the microfilariae. If these are seen, it indicates the dog currently hosts an adult population of the worms.

But a dog with no visible (through a microscope) microfilariae can still have heartworms. This condition is called “occult dirofilariasis,” and it could mean:

• He is hosting a population of adults that are all male or all female, and thus, not producing any babies.

• He is hosting a population of adults that have been rendered sterile through the use of Ivermectin or other preventative drugs, and thus are not producing any babies.

• He is hosting a reproducing adult population, but his immune system is successfully waging a war on the circulating microfilariae, efficiently removing them from his blood.

• The heartworms he is hosting are not yet adults. The second blood test used to diagnose heartworm infestation zeroes in on the adult population. The earliest test used for this purpose worked by detecting the antigens (foreign proteins) shed by adult heartworms. The problem was, it could only indicate whether adults had ever been in the dog’s system. It would detect antigens even if the worms were dead and gone.

The adult detection test used today has a similar fault. It detects only the antigens produced by live, adult females, so it can miss all-male adult infestations, or juvenile females. If the dog was bitten by an infected mosquito only in the last six months, the test will not detect the juveniles.

Traditional Treatments
The traditional path to full treatment is long and arduous – but far preferable to the longer and more arduous death by heartworm. Because the heartworm lives in the dog in three distinctly different forms – microfilariae, larvae, and adult worm – three different drugs, administered in separate stages, have to be employed to rid the dog of the invader.

The first step is to get rid of the adults, which cause the most damage. Just a couple of years ago, there was only one option for this treatment, an intravenous injection of an arsenic-based drug called Caparsolate. The treatment is essentially chemotherapy, the administration of a deadly drug that is supposed to be deadlier to the parasite than it is to the patient. The drug required two injections of the drug for two days, and each injection was a hold-your-breath endeavor. Caparsolate had to be injected directly into the dog’s veins, and if even a minute amount came in contact with muscle or other tissue, it caused horrible wounds accompanied by massive tissue sloughing.

In 1995, a company called Rhone-Merieaux introduced Immiticide, a much better drug, and it quickly replaced Caparsolate as the treatment of choice. Another deadly and powerful drug, it, too, presents veterinarians with some challenges, but compared to the alternative, most veterinarians feel it is light years better. The current maker of Immiticide is Merial Limited, a company that was born of a merger between Rhone-Merieaux and Merck, and is based in Iselin, New Jersey.

The two injections that are required for a complete Immiticide treatment are usually administered 24 hours apart, in a very specific site rarely used for injections: deep in the back muscles located above the L3 and L5 lumbar vertebrae. Immiticide does not cause tissue sloughing, but many dogs exhibit irritation at the injection site, including pain, swelling, and reluctance to move.

The dog’s post-treatment symptoms are similar with both the old and the new treatment. The drugs kill the worms, leaving the dog’s body to carry the dead and decaying worms out of its circulatory system. The dead worms are carried in the bloodstream to the lungs, where they are gradually reabsorbed. Depending on the dog’s health and the total number of worms in his system, this can be a mild or a violent process. The dogs usually cough, gag, and vomit, experience fever and lung congestion, and are understandably depressed and lethargic.

Both treatments require the dog to be kept as quiet as possible (preferably caged) for the first few days. All increases in heart rate and respiration force a greater amount of dead worm fragments into circulation. If too many particles flood into the lungs at once, they can block the blood vessels to the lungs and cause death. Following a treatment with Caparsolate, veterinarians recommend the dog be kept physically restricted for one to two months. This restriction is shorter following Immiticide treatment.

Ten to 20 percent of dogs with a high worm burden will die as a result of the Immiticide treatment. (The number seems grim until you consider that even without treatment, dogs with that level of infestation suffer a much slower, progressively debilitating death.) If a heart X-ray, antigen test, or the dog’s symptoms suggest that the infestation is very severe, the dogs can undergo a modified treatment protocol, consisting of a single injection, which kills the weaker worms, followed by two more injections a month later. The cost for the entire treatment depends largely on how the dog reacts to the drugs and to the death of the worms. For most lightly infested dogs, the experience totals a week or two of discomfort with no further veterinary treatment required. Under these circumstances, the bill from the veterinary hospital would average $400-600. A dog that experienced difficulties, however, may required extended veterinary care, including administrations of fluids, steroids to reduce any fever or inflammation and help quell the coughing, and supportive therapies for the liver. In this case, the bill can easily reach upwards of $1,500.

Both the Immiticide and the Caparsolate treatments are contraindicated (not recommended) for the most severely infested dogs with Caval syndrome. After the adults are killed, the next step in traditional treatment is to kill any microfilariae that are still in circulation. Since the microfilariae cannot mature without an intermediate host (time spent in a mosquito), you’d think you could skip this step. But you have to administer yet another drug to kill any larvae that may have been deposited on the dog in the last 60 days, and the drugs used for that purpose also kill the microfilariae at a dangerous rate. (A too-sudden die-off of the microfilariae can cause shock and subsequent death of the dog.) The drug used to kill the microfilariae, dithiazanine iodide, is given orally until the microfilariae are absent from the blood, usually one to two weeks.

Final Step – Should Have Been the First
It’s only at this point that you can administer the final treatment – the one the dog should have received before he ever came in contact with mosquitoes. The drugs used halt the development of any larvae present in the dog’s tissues. They comprise the “preventative” action that should be used for the rest of the dog’s life. Each drug costs about $30-40 for a six-month supply. Currently there are three types of drugs available for preventing heartworm development in dogs. The first drug used to prevent larval development was diethylcarbamazine (DEC), marketed as Filaribits, Dec-acide, Caricide, and Hetrazan. DEC is still used, but it must be given to dogs daily throughout the mosquito season, since it kills only the L3 larvae which have not yet taken L4 form, a process the larvae undergo within the first 36 hours on the dog.

Today, DEC is used less frequently than the newer, once-a-month products Interceptor, HeartGard-30, and Sentinel. Interceptor was the first of the monthly preventatives, introduced to the market in 1993 by Novartis Animal Health. The active ingredient in this drug is milbemycin oxime, which kills the L3 and L4 stage heartworms as well as other intestinal parasites such as hookworm, whipworm, and roundworm.

Novartis also makes Program, an oral insect development inhibitor (IDI) made available in 1994 for the purpose of killing fleas. In 1997, the company brought out a combination of lufenuron and milbemycin oxime that they call Sentinel.

Perhaps the best known monthly preventative, however, is HeartGard-30. An Ivermectin-based drug, HeartGard received an early reputation for being poorly tolerated by Collies and other particularly chemical-sensitive dogs. Recent dosages seem to have corrected the problems, which usually manifested as vomiting, diarrhea, depression, and/or a lack of appetite.

HeartGard, Sentinel, and Interceptor are approved only for use as anti-larval drugs, but each has been used on dogs hosting a population of adult heartworms with mixed results. The danger is that these drugs can kill the population of microfilariae so rapidly that embolism (an obstruction of the arteries) occurs. Also, while neither drug has demonstrated an ability to kill the adults worms, it may have a sterilizing effect on them, keeping them from producing any more microfilariae. With only a light infestation, protected from further infestation by the anti-larval drugs, a dog could conceivably outlive the heartworms.

Alternative Approaches
So far, we have discussed only the traditional veterinary approach to heartworm prevention and treatment. Due to the seriousness of the disease, most holistic practitioners recommend that their clients use the traditional drugs. Some use herbal or homeopathic remedies to support and help the dog’s body deal with the chemical treatments. Some, however, use only alternative methods to protect their own dogs’ health, and most are happy to help and support a client who wants to do the same. But the completely drug-free approach requires a huge commitment from dog owners, and unless owners devote themselves completely to the task of building and maintaining their dogs’ immune systems, they may find their dogs infected after all.

WDJ interviewed three holistic veterinarians with a wide range of experiences with non-traditional and traditional heartworm prevention and treatment. All three agree that keeping the dog healthy in order to boost his own immune system response to heartworm infections is critical (for more information about this process, see Dr. Christina Chambreau’s article, “Five Steps to Fitness,” in the April 1998 issue of WDJ). But each has taken a very different approach to the heartworm problem.

California veterinarian Nancy Scanlan says she is lucky; none of her clients have ever had a heartworm positive dog. There is heartworm in California, however, and she advises most of her clients to use the traditional drugs for preventing infection. However, she suggests also using herbal, homeopathic, and nutritional supplements to help the body detoxify after preventative use.

Representing the middle ground, Indiana veterinarian Carolyn Blakey supports those of her clients who use traditional drugs as well as those who take a completely alternative approach to prevention and treatment. She has seen success with both approaches, she says, attributing that achievement to the homeopathic remedies and nutritional supplements she administers to improve the dogs’ circulatory function.

And on the far left, Texas veterinarian William Falconer says he provides a fully homeopathic alternative to the traditional drugs for heartworm. This means a totally unique constitutional remedy tailored to each individual dog, an approach he claims has enjoyed 100 percent success.

We’ll describe each practitioner’s approach in the next issue.

-By Nancy Kerns

We would like to thank Nancy Scanlan, DVM, of Sherman Oaks, CA, William Falconer, DVM, of Austin TX, and Carolyn Blakey, DVM, of Richmond, IN for their help with this article.

The Cancer Conundrum

0

Cancer. There is no other word that strikes such fear into the heart. Partly because the disease is so often fatal, and partly because even the survivors end up experiencing so much pain and discomfort. The disease takes a tremendous toll on the patient, as well as his or her family and friends.

And as anyone who has heard a number of cancer stories knows, there are times when everything is used to treat the cancer alternative and traditional medical remedies and absolutely nothing seems to slow or stop the macabre march of the disease. At the other extreme, in other cases, some of the most ludicrous treatments imaginable seemingly cure the patient forever.

But while the majority of cancer patients, human and canine, probably receive medical care that falls somewhere in the middle of those two extremes, the uncertainty of the potentially fatal outcome weights every treatment decision.

So, as in so much of the game of life, there’s no right answer. Every person has to choose how they will treat their own (or their own dog’s) cancer. And there’s no way in advance to know whether you have chosen the correct remedies.

Informed, but personalized decisions
But, to be blunt, that’s life. If you think about it, you can never really know whether you did the “best” thing. Most of us just muddle through, educating ourselves about all the options, trusting our instincts, and, ultimately, accepting the results of our decisions with as much equanimity as possible, no matter what the outcome.

We are privileged to reap unlimited benefits from sharing our lives with our dogs. Balancing that transaction are the costs financial and emotional of our responsibility for making life-or-death decisions for our beloved canine companions. Determining how and even whether  to treat a beloved dog with cancer can be just as difficult and heart-wrenching as it is for relatives of humans with cancer.

Nevertheless, we encourage you to embrace that responsibility yourself, rather than turning it over to your medical advisers, whether they are conventionally trained or alternative practitioners. Ask a lot of questions, and educate yourself as much as possible about the side-effects of treatments, about the odds that a given remedy will improve or extend your dog’s life, the cost of the proposed treatments, and about the risks of not taking their recommended approach.

Make sure you communicate your concerns to all your medical advisors; the more they know about you and your dog, the better they can tailor their recommendations to your dog’s case. If, for instance, your dog panics when he is left with strangers, they might reconsider the wisdom of shipping him to a faraway university veterinary hospital for advanced treatments; the stress alone could have deleterious effects on his immune system.

Also, remember that doctors tend to advise taking the path they know best. Your knowledge, though it may not be as deep as theirs, may be wider.

A case in point is the author of this month’s Case History (“Buying Time to Spend Together”). When Di Rowling’s Belgian Shepherd, Jet, was diagnosed with fairly advanced bone cancer, her veterinarian felt there was little to be done but palliate Jet’s symptoms until his death (which he saw as inevitable and rapidly impending). Rowling quickly recovered from her initial despair, and consulted with two other experts a veterinarian who uses unconventional nutritional supplements, and an experienced herbalist. Their treatments helped pull Jet back from the brink.

Rowling doesn’t imagine that she has cured Jet’s cancer forever; it may recur. For now, she’s thrilled to have bought some more time with her beloved friend.

Letters: October 1998

0

Human-grade or Bust!
I wanted to tell you how grateful I am for WDJ. As a member of a non-profit rescue group in my area, I became interested in canine nutrition and holistic therapy after seeing all the health problems you mentioned in your September 1998 issue on canned dog food, plus an alarming rate of cancer, skin, kidney, liver problems and other diseases in many of our dogs. Your publication is invaluable in helping these wonderful animals.

Of particular interest was your statement, “It also means meats that are human grade when referring to the best quality ingredients available in commercial dog food.” I am all too aware of the inclusion of grain and vegetable discards and “4-D” meats in dog food (not to mention rancid oils and other fats). You tell it like it is regarding the pet food industry’s practices and I agree that an ingredient unfit for human consumption is not fit for my dog.

With that in mind, I was disappointed to see that out of the top 10 canned dog foods featured, only two, California Natural and Spot’s Stew, were listed as using human-grade ingredients. The other foods were given high marks for being “forthcoming about the sources of ingredients” and “devoted to quality ingredients” but I cannot understand why some of these companies use human-grade ingredients and others don’t. After all, they are targeting a market of people who want the very best for their dogs and are willing to pay a premium price.

If these companies are devoted to the health of our dogs as they claim, they should use the highest quality ingredients, which to me means human-grade. In addition, why would I pay $1.79 a can (in my area) for food with organic beef in it if the other ingredients are not human-grade? By the way, that particular company used to advertise human-grade ingredients and when I called the company to ask why they stopped I got “no comment” as my answer. Most dog food manufacturers are tight-lipped about their ingredients – a red flag if I ever saw one and not exactly a sign of product pride.

I agree that these top 10 companies are the best of the best but if they want my business, they’d better pull their socks up and guarantee only human-grade ingredients.

By the way, I made that appointment with my friendly neighborhood butcher three years ago and feed only fresh human-grade meat, grain and vegetables to my five dogs. If you learn to shop wisely it doesn’t cost much more than dog food and saves lots of money on vet bills.

-Billie Cecero
Palm Beach Gardens, FL

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Supplement for Arthritis
I just finished the article about caring for older dogs (WDJ August 1998). I have a 14-year-old German Shepherd. His health is generally good, but he started going down on his back legs due to the start of degenerative myelopathy.

I have already had to put three dogs down – two due to DM, and one to arthritis in her hips. All three dogs were 13 1/2 to 14 years of age, and all were German Shepherds.

This past Christmas, I received a card from a friend in which she told us about her Shepherd’s arthritis. Her dog cried even while lying down, worse when she tried stairs. Our friend’s veterinarian put the dog on a supplement called Cartiflex, and the dog’s pain started to diminish within two weeks! After six weeks she was pain-free.

I called my friend right away to find out more about this wonderful stuff! After a long search, I found it. I started my dog on Cartiflex on February 16, 1998 and in four weeks I could see the difference in his rear end. He was definitely standing up better on his back feet and legs.

This dog had been so bad that he would drag his back toenails when he walked. Simply walking on cement (in his exercise area) had worn down his nails so short that his toes started bleeding. I had to bandage them and put booties on them. But now he’s much improved! He hardly drags his rear feet; he picks them up higher – almost like when he was young. My veterinarians are amazed at his improvement and I hope I’ll have my dog with me at least another year.

Cartiflex contains glucosamine, chondroitin sulfates, Omega 3 fatty acids, sea algae powder, DL methionine, vitamin E, and selenium. My dog weighs about 75 to 80 pounds. I started him on three capsules per day for about seven weeks, then cut him to two a day, which I am still giving him. As long as he continues to do well, I will keep him on them. I hope this information will help other dog owners.

-Lila C. Neviska
Hurricane, UT

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Helpful, But Not Supportive
Although I certainly agree with your disdain of multi-level marketing “schemes” you mentioned in “Multi-Level Marketing Mysteries” (WDJ May 1998), there are many other avenues by which you may obtain blue-green algae. Try L & H Vitamins, Inc. in Long Island City, New York, (800) 221-1152 or contact the manufacturer directly at (800) 800-1300.

Regarding car safety for canines (WDJ June 1998): I recommend The Car Safety Strap, available from Master Animal Care in Hazelton, PA, (800) 346-0749. This snaps onto any harness and actually clips INTO the seatbelt BUCKLE. This way your buddy cannot pullllll that seatbelt out and distract you with kisses or get in your lap while you are driving.

I found your publication very narrow in scope and not very well-informed. Good luck anyway.

-Linda Rosas
via email

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Snuggling up to the Snuggle Ball
We are new subscribers to WDJ. Upon reading the first issue we would like to comment on “Strange & Wonderful Bedfellows” (July 1998).

The article does not recommend the Flexi-Mat Snuggle Ball. We have purchased several dog beds for our Beagle and German Short-Haired Pointer. We tried one of the large Snuggle Balls and it quickly became the bed of choice for the Beagle. It is a little small for the Pointer, but she also loves to relax in it.

We have purchased additional Snuggle Balls and they are always the first beds chosen, though we’re not sure why.

Our Beagle likes to have support against his back. The Snuggle Ball gives this support completely around the bed. We have another bed which supports only one side of the dog and it is visited only occasionally.

We also think our dogs like the feel of the fleecy sheepskin-type material. And the beds wash wonderfully in a commercial front-loading washer.

-Bill and Connie Kiessling
Pine, CO

The Canine Cancer Crisis

6

They are among the words you least want to hear: Your dog has cancer. But the odds are you will hear them someday, especially if you have more than one dog in your lifetime. One in four dogs get cancer; half of the dogs over 10 years of age die from or with it.

Much of what is known about canine cancer closely parallels what is known about cancer in humans. Dogs are at risk of the same types of cancer afflicting humans, and treating canine cancer successfully is dependent upon the same variables found in human cancer treatment: the type of cancer, the wisdom of the attending doctor in choosing the most effective course of treatment, the availability of advanced medical techniques, and the willingness and ability to pay for them.

There are other similarities. Statistically speaking, cancer is a disease of middle and old age. Certain cancers are largely preventable with prudent lifestyle choices. Early detection is almost always a critical factor. Cancer is hereditary, sometimes running in canine families. Variables like nutrition and toxic exposure seem to play a prominent role.

And always there is a highly individual response to disease. For some dogs, the immune system rallies, and the treatments seem magically precise. For many, if not most, treatment becomes a holding pattern, an evolving equation of modulated therapy versus quality of life. For still others, hope fades as quickly as the once-playful antics of a dog’s life.

Detecting Cancer Early is Key to Survival

Just as with humans, early detection offers by far the most realistic hope for your dog’s survival, particularly for those cancers which aggressively metastasize. Make it a regular practice to examine your dog’s body for unexplained swelling or lumps. Tumors developing in the upper layers of skin are the most common types of cancer in dogs.

Many early warning signs of cancer, however, are more subtle. While many of these signs – behavioral changes, loss of appetite, increased water consumption, persistent wheezing or coughing – are universal and require only basic observational skills on the part of the owner, other signs require a more sophisticated knowledge of your own pet.

Cancers are often traced to the site of earlier injuries, traumas, wounds, or fractures, so knowledge and examination of these injury sites can be helpful.

Dogs with long snouts and dogs who live on commercial farms, exposed throughout their lives to herbicides and pesticides, are more prone to nasal cancer.

However, dogs in general have a higher incidence of nasal cancer than humans. This, as they say, is a lifestyle issue; a dog keeps his nose to the ground, sniffing up whatever carcinogens happen to be present.

Oral melanoma, the fourth most common type of canine cancer, is much more common in dogs with dark pigmentation in their mouths. If you own such a dog, you need to be especially alert to unexplained oral swellings or signs of dental disease.

Mast cell tumors are common, but far more common in short-nosed breeds like boxers and Boston Terriers. Large and giant breeds are at much higher risk of developing bone cancer, particularly in the long bones of the legs. Cocker spaniels are prone to an otherwise rare type of ear cancer. Skin cancer is prevalent where ultraviolet light is strong, and particularly for short-haired, fair-skinned breeds like Boxers.

Before buying a certain type of dog, you should ask several breeders about the prevalence of cancer in that breed, and in that particular canine family. Heredity is a major determining factor in cancer; it is thought that boxers, for example, are more prone to cancer than any other bred. These statistics should not necessarily make you shy away from that breed, but inform your level of vigilance.

You should also be aware that, as in humans, there are cancer-causing genes, called oncogenes, which are more prevalent in one family than another. As dogs age, they are increasingly prone to both growths on the skin, and to fatty deposits just under it. Most often these growths are benign, but even a veterinarian can’t reliably tell just by looking. It is crucial to aspirate (withdraw cells via a thin needle) and, if necessary, biopsy (analyze the tissue sample under a microscope) these growths upon detection.

Even benign growths should be monitored closely; they have the potential to become cancerous. In addition, a dog might have a number of seemingly identical growths, of which only one is malignant.

As your dog ages, the likelihood increases that your dog will get cancer in any of one hundred different forms. Simple awareness, clearly, can go a long ways toward providing a happy outcome.

Diagnosing Cancer in Dogs

Approximately one in four dogs will get cancer; nearly half of all dogs reaching 10 years of age will die of it. Although we don’t know, in any given dog, precisely what factors caused a particular type of cancer, we do know that cancers seem to derive, over time, from an immune system stressed by toxins, injuries, poor nutrition – and probably stress itself.

If cancer is suspected, your veterinarian will order a series of tests leading to a diagnosis. These tests might include, depending on the cancer in question, aspiration, biopsy, blood tests, urine tests, x-rays, and ultrasound.

In some cases, your veterinarian might recommend exploratory surgery, or even one of the advanced, accurate, and expensive scanning technologies available to human patients.

When a cancer is present, however your veterinarian has arrived at the diagnosis, he or she should present you with a realistic prognosis. This process, called staging, identifies both the extent of the cancer’s spread (metastasis), and determines the treatment options available.

Common Canine Cancers:

Lymphoma

Lymphoma, also known as Lymphosarcoma, is a cancer of the blood cells and tissues associated with the lymphatic system. Generally afflicting middle-aged and older dogs, it is a cancer whose most common type (other forms originate in the gastrointestinal tract, chest, skin, or bone marrow) involves multiple external lymph nodes.

Frequently examine your dog’s body for abnormalities; it is of particular importance here, as lymphoma is the third most common cancer diagnosed in dogs. It is usually a simple matter to locate swollen lymph nodes at the base of the jaws, in the rear legs behind the knee, armpits, groin, and in front of the shoulder blades.

While true cures, for all practical purposes, remain out of reach, lymphoma responds exceptionally well to chemotherapy; what constitutes an acceptable quality of life, however, will sooner or later be the overriding issue for you as a dog owner.

Osteosarcoma

This aggressively malignant bone cancer most often strikes large or giant breeds, typically in the long bones of the legs. It tends to spread to the lungs very early in the course of the disease, and accounts for some 80 percent of the primary bone cancers found in dogs. The median age at diagnosis is seven years. In addition to targeting large dogs (only five percent of cases occur in dogs less than 25 pounds), osteosarcoma has also been linked to dogs with previously broken bones, and with hairline fractures occurring when bone growth was incomplete.

Initially, osteosarcoma might be labeled a mere sprain, but persistent symptoms later lead to a correct diagnosis, which is invariably grave. While new techniques are emerging, amputation is still the therapy of choice, since it removes both the primary cancer site and the primary source of pain. With amputation alone, however, only 10 percent of patients survive a year. When chemotherapy is applied, the one-year survival increases to 50 percent.

Skin Tumors

Dogs are prone to a great many classifiable lumps, cysts, growths, deposits, and tumors, the majority of which prove benign; some 20 percent are malignant or, rarely, become malignant over time. Because these growths are a normal part of the aging process, it is important to keep an eye on them, and bring them to your veterinarian’s attention.

The three most common types are called histiocytomas, or button tumors; lipomas, or fatty tumors; and mast cell tumors, which are by far the most serious.

Fatty tumors, to which breeds like the Labrador Retriever are prone, are unsightly but not dangerous in most cases. Most dogs, if they get any at all, will have more than one. Most veterinarians aren’t eager to remove them unless they inhibit the dog’s quality of life – they can reach the size of baseballs – by growing in an armpit or the crook of a knee.

Histiocytomas are referred to by what they resemble on the skin – raised, red, and often angry-looking “buttons” of rough tissue. Appearing in a spot where a dog is forced to leave them alone, they sometimes disappear without treatment. However, dog owners should never wait for the situation to resolve itself. Again, tumors cannot be safely identified by sight alone, even by experienced veterinarians.

It is the nature of mast cell tumors that they are very difficult to remove surgically, and surgery is the standard protocol. For this reason, veterinarians often recommend radiation and/or chemotherapy in conjunction with surgery, depending on the tumor’s appearance when the dog is brought in. In its early stage, this cancer is of uniform appearance (in medical terminology, “well-differentiated”), and can often be successfully excised. Otherwise, it is known for metastasizing to almost any part of the body.

Mammary Cancer

The risks of this largely preventable cancer are directly correlated with whether, and when, a female dog has been spayed. (While extremely rare, this cancer also occurs in males). For those dogs not intended to be bred, owners can virtually eliminate the risks of mammary cancer by spaying prior to the female dog’s first heat.

Mammary cancer, like most canine cancers, is closely associated with age. The average age of onset is ten years, and probably half of all cases are benign. And even for malignancies – almost alone among the serious dog cancers – this one has a significant rate of cure, but only when caught early, and the tumor is still localized. When the cancer has spread, the treatment goal hinges on quality of life issues, rather than possible cures.

Oral Melanoma

There may very well be a lifestyle link with this common and often grave cancer.

According to the most prevalent theory, carcinogens lodge on a dog’s coat, and are absorbed into oral tissues as a dog grooms. Even long-banned chemicals like DDT remain in the environment. Airborne carcinogens, in particular, settle to the ground; many of us fertilize our lawns, or spray pesticides in our gardens.

Because dogs spend their lives at toxicity’s ground zero, the potential for cell-altering damage is high. Fortunately, a major positive benefit of the growing emphasis on canine dental care is that this type of cancer can be diagnosed early.

Unless complete surgical removal is possible (and only follow-up x-rays will reveal if the cancer has metastasized), the options, once again, will be limited to a patient’s quality of life.

Preventing Cancer in Dogs

Of course, there is no magical diet, supplement, or vaccine that prevents cancer. But, as a dog owner, you can make some relatively simple choices to improve the odds.

As already mentioned, early spaying enormously reduces the risk of mammary cancer in females. Dogs spayed prior to initial estrus carry only half the risk of those spayed after the first but prior to the second heat cycle. Dogs spayed as young adults, or never spayed at all, have a risk factor increased by several hundred percent.

In male dogs, testicular cancer is common; neutering, obviously, eliminates that risk, and reduces the risk of both cancerous and non-cancerous prostate conditions, as well as anal cancer. (For show dogs and other unneutered males, fortunately, canine testicular cancer rarely spreads, and therefore has a relatively high rate of cure.)

Pale-skinned dogs have a higher risk of skin cancer. A striking example of this risk is the Dalmatian, a breed currently high in popularity. Cancer is known to surround – but not enter – a Dalmatian’s black spots. If you own a fair-skinned, short-haired breed, it would be best to limit your dog’s sun exposure, especially at the times of day when the sun’s rays are the most direct.

Moving beyond these few proven risk factors, however, takes us into the realm of nutrition and environment, where the human experience may or may not apply to our dogs as well. However, common sense – and growing clinical evidence – tells us that it does.

Environment

It isn’t any secret that the fewer environmental toxins our dogs are exposed to, the better. Long-term toxic exposure can destroy a dog’s liver, and weaken the immune system, which is the first and last line of defense against cancer.

Limiting your dog’s exposure to toxins is harder than you might think, however. After all, our dogs spend their lives on the earth’s most toxic layer, the ground, and in contact with the toxin-covered surfaces in our homes: carpets which have been cleaned with potentially harmful chemicals, floors which have been sprayed with ant and roach killer, garage floors which have absorbed all sorts of toxins.

Then there are all the chemicals we pour onto our dogs, most notably, flea-killing chemicals of every description: powders, sprays, shampoos, dips, and ointments.

The Prevention/Nutrition Link

Free radicals are active chemical substances which react with and alter our body’s cells. Those most capable of damage are associated with food additives, pesticides, air pollution, and radiation. It is thought that these damaged cells can “lose” their genetic programming, which limits and controls cell replication. Cancer, by definition, is uncontrolled cell growth. As is by now well-known, there is strong evidence that antioxidants (such as vitamins A, C, E and many other nutrients) help to neutralize free radicals absorbed from our environment. In theory, neutralizing free radicals could be a potent cancer preventative.

All of us “get cancer”; we probably have cancerous cells present in our bodies at all times. A properly functioning immune system will detect these cells and eliminate these cells before “cancer” takes hold. Cancer kills us when our immune system fails.

For dogs, and dog owners, the best possible advice suggests maintaining our immune systems at optimum levels through nutrition, weight control, and regular exercise.

Dr. R. H. Anderson, an holistic veterinarian in Dallas, Oregon, suggests a health-building and disease-preventing protocol for all his clients, and as a result, says very few of the clients who have followed the protocol end up developing cancer. “I have my clients work up to feeding their dogs at least a 50 percent natural diet. I clean up the dogs’ livers, and I make sure their immune systems are functioning normally. Every dog is different, but these three things seem to work pretty well.”

Cancer Treatments for Dogs: Traditional, Holistic, and Experimental

In the next issue of WDJ, we’ll examine the world of canine cancer treatments – conventional and unorthodox – as well as describe the most promising developments in cancer research.

Knowledge of the latest treatments is helpful, but it doesn’t alter cancer’s basic conundrum: What is the best outcome for my dog, and how do we get there?

Many holistic veterinarians believe that some conventional cancer treatments are pointless, inhumane, and often counterproductive. Many mainstream veterinarians roll their eyes at the very suggestion that alternative therapies are effective – or even more effective – than modern drug and radiation therapies.

While no one can give any definitive answers – every dog is different – in our next issue, we will tell you about the best treatment options available today, and what those options will look like in the future.

Roger Govier, a freelance writer and frequent contributor to WDJ, lives in San Francisco, California.

Acupressure Techniques for Treating Dog Pain

A woman wakes up one morning and goes into the kitchen to make some coffee and let out her dog. When he sees her, he rises from his bed and begins to yawn and stretch. He interrupts himself, though, with a yelp of alarm and a fit of head shaking. When the woman calls his name, he stops, and walks to her holding his head at an angle. “Oh, honey, is it your ears again?” the woman asks. She gently lifts one of the dog’s ear flaps, and confirms her suspicion. The interior of the dog’s ears are red, inflamed, and sour-smelling.

For many people, this episode would be followed with a trip to the veterinarian and a treatment of an antibiotic, to kill the bacteria that has infected the dog’s ears. Some people become accustomed to taking the trip to the veterinary clinic several times a year, because their dog’s condition is something that spontaneously recurs again and again.

In this case, however, the woman takes a couple of deep breaths and begins to touch the dog’s head and ears. She applies pressure to specific areas on the back of the dog’s neck, the top of his front leg, and a spot on the outside of his ear. Within several minutes, the dog takes several deep breaths and lowers his head. When the woman rises, and opens the door to let her dog outside, he trots outdoors with his head held normally, temporarily relieved of the pain of his inflamed ear.

Helping The Body Heal Itself
The dog hasn’t been cured by this application of acupressure, the use of pressure on specific locations on a human’s or animal’s body. But the touch has prompted the dog’s body to release its own store of pain-killing chemicals into the bloodstream, giving him temporary relief from the ear infection. Additional help from an experienced acupuncturist can affect the workings of the dog’s entire body, including its metabolism, circulatory system, internal organs, and the very life force of the dog. Bringing his body into a balanced state, say practitioners of this ancient medicine, will enable him to fight the infection on his own.

More and more people, veterinarians included, are beginning to discover the benefits of these healing practices which have been used and trusted for over 4000 years. Acupressure, probably the oldest form of Chinese medicine, is the application of pressure, usually by the fingers, thumbs, and hands, to specific points on the body to stimulate the body’s own healing ability. Acupuncture, fully developed by 400 BC, uses needles that penetrate the skin to prompt the same acupoints on a deeper level. Even though the explanations of how they work may require the mind to stretch, the truth is, these methods work well, work consistently, and many times, even work when conventional treatments have failed to cure.

One of the best things about acupressure is that all dog owners can use it to increase their dogs’ health and well-being. It is also invaluable in times of crisis, and can increase your awareness of your dog’s body.

According to historical accounts, acupressure and acupuncture was first used on horses and other livestock, probably because of the indispensable nature of animals at that time. The healing methods that evolved in China are based on an entirely different view of the body and its workings than those we are familiar with in the western world. Contemporary Western medicine sees the body as an amalgamation of individual parts that can be looked at and also healed as separate and distinct pieces. We have specialists for every part of the body who have amassed enormous knowledge about how each part works both in health and disease, and how each responds to treatment.

This medical model has brought about spectacular advances – such as antibiotics, vaccines, and laser surgery. But because modern medicine sees the body much like a machine made up of specialized parts, doctors usually go to the site of the symptom and either “fix” it with drugs (like antibiotics), replace the damaged part (as with a hip replacement), or just cut it out (like an appendix or tonsils).

Although many of these procedures produce amazing results, cures for conditions that affect the body in less specific ways (like Pre-Menstrual Syndrome and migraines, for instance) remain elusive. Many times, if thae cause of dysfunction doesn’t originate from a specific place in the body, doctors are unable to cure the symptoms. The same often holds true for modern veterinary medicine. Think of the mild but persistent lamenesses that have plagued dogs you have known. Their problems often go undiagnosed regardless of how many tests the veterinarian runs. If a defective or diseased body part cannot be pinpointed, modern veterinary science is unable to recommend any “cures” except rest and painkilling or anti-inflammatory medications.

The Chinese view of the body is more holistic. It sees the body – canine or human – as an intricate system where all the elements are intimately intertwined. Chinese medical practitioners address symptoms as signposts leading the healer to an imbalance of the system at large. They seek to find and heal the root cause of the symptom, not the symptom itself.

Instead of seeing the body like a machine, practitioners of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) view the body more like a lush garden where the whole is seen as a complex and interdependent ecosystem. If you douse aphid-infested plants in the garden with poisonous chemical insecticides, the whole garden will need to heal from the effects to the soil. Similarly, if you address an allergy problem with steroids as a long-term solution, you may cause a loss of bone calcium in your dog, resulting in bone weakness and even fracture, causing a whole new problem for the body to deal with.

Chi is the Key
TCM looks at the body as a whole and uses methods that treat the system as an entire network of linked components, not individual parts. Central to this view of health and healing is the concept of energy, called “chi” (chee). By energy, we mean the life force that flows through all of us, glowing bright when we are healthiest and happiest and dimming when we are sick. Look in the sparkling eye of a fit, healthy dog and compare it to the eye of a dog in pain. Chi twinkles in the first and fades in the second.

Practitioners of TCM hold that the entire universe is suffused with chi, and that it is chi that animates the dense physical matter of all living things. Although chi infuses every cell of our bodies, it is concentrated in set pathways, called “meridians,” which pass like rivers throughout our bodies. Each meridian has a route through the body. It also has a certain quality, purpose, and energetic task to perform in the body. The tasks relate to functions in the physical, emotional, and spiritual body. For instance, the heart meridian governs the workings of not only the physical heart, but also the emotions of love and joy and the quality of spirit.

Energetic Irrigation
In the perfectly balanced body, all of the energy pathways (meridians) conduct the flow of energy in an unimpeded manner, like a newly built and spotlessly clean irrigation system feeding water and nutrients to the garden. However, most of us have parts of our energy system that have become blocked or congested from emotional (internal) or environmental (external) stresses. When a dog loses a close buddy, or begins a new and challenging training schedule, for instance, he needs special care like rest, proper nutrition, and gentle attention, to allow his body, mind, and soul to adjust. Without this care, the body’s energy can stagnate, clog, or diminish.

Acupuncture and acupressure seeks to rebalance the body by realigning the energetic “irrigation system” so that the chi may flow smoothly. In a sick dog, like the one described at the beginning of this article, the energy flow is definitely not moving in a normal, health-producing manner. Touching specific acupressure points stimulates the release of the dog’s own internal chemicals which naturally rebalances the body and helps it return to proper function.

Traditional Chinese doctors were once paid only for maintenance visits because their primary role was to help the client remain healthy. Should the patient become sick, the doctor was obligated to provide free care. TCM was best utilized in a preventative manner, instead of a curative one, and can be used in a similar manner to keep your dog well.

I suggest using both the Eastern and Western systems for what they each do best. Western medicine is remarkable for severe problems like life-threatening accidents and disease. Regular acupressure and other tools of TCM can build health, improve performance, and prevent illness.

-By Susan Tenney

Author Susan Tenney, CMT, lives in Sonoma County, CA. She is a regular contributor to The Whole Horse Journal.

Best Dog Winter Coats

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The weather is just starting to turn brisk, but many short-haired dogs are already shivering. The time to order your dog’s winter coat is now, so you have a cozy coat standing by for the season of the most serious cold snaps. Whole Dog Journal tested a number of dog-warming coats, sweaters, blankets, what have you – for warmth, fit, and ease of application. We also washed and dried the blankets per the manufacturers’ recommendations.

To test how the coats fit and stayed in place, we put them on dogs and threw balls for them so that they’d run and jump.

A significant part of our test concerned how easy it was to put the coats on and adjust them for fit. Since we used a variety of test dogs (including a number of shelter dogs) with a range of responses to “dressing up,” we quickly came to appreciate the designs could be put on easily.

We didn’t concern ourselves with waterproof coats; for most of us, the real concern is keeping our dogs warm, and these features were mutually exclusive in all the designs we found. Besides, based on our own experiences with wet clothing of different fabric types, we are certain that all but one or two of the coats would keep a dog warm even if wet. In the text below, we’ve noted which of the blankets may not perform well when wet.

Interestingly, some of the best coats we were able to find came from equine, rather than canine catalogs; several manufacturers of equine apparel have customized their most successful designs for dogs. These coats were among the easiest to put on and offered the most adjustability. Maybe it’s because horse owners would never buy a blanket that required them to lift and manipulate a horse’s limbs through leg holes…

Also With This Article
Click here to view the products reviewed.

-By Amber Heintzberger, Maureen Gallatin, and Nancy Kerns

Solving the Barking Problem in Your Home

Dogs bark to communicate. If we start with that simple understanding, the idea of dealing with a “problem barker” becomes a whole lot easier. It changes our focus from doing anything we can to make the dog “shut up,” to figuring out what the dog is trying to say – so we can address his concerns, and finding more constructive and quieter ways for communication to occur.

We’ve asked two canine behavior experts to step in and help us solve the barking problem. TTouch practitioner Sabra Learned, of Berkeley, California, teaches us how to hear what our dogs are saying, and how to establish more quiet and effective lines of communication with them. Trainer Dr. Ian Dunbar shares some methods that can be used to teach any dog when and how to bark, and when and how to stop.

But what should I do if there is a dog barking all night outside my window and, stealing a line from the Pink Panther movie with Peter Sellers, “It is not my dog”? Some of us have neighbors who don’t seem to know or care about their dog’s incessant barking. For relief from this kind of noisy onslaught, we are pleased to offer practical and legal remedies from attorney Mary Randolph’s indispensible book, Dog Law, published by Nolo Press.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Why Dogs Bark and How to Stop Them”

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Why Veterinary Wellness Exams Are Important

I took my two dogs—Woody, age 9, and Boone, age 3—to see their vet a week ago. I wasn’t looking forward to being chided for allowing him—nay, facilitating him—to gain a few extra pounds this winter. But I wasn’t at all expecting the health problems that my vet found.