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How to Keep a Dog from Jumping the Fence

By
Kate O'Connor
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1
Some dogs view fences as a challenge not a limitation making it hard to keep them from jumping the fence.
It can be difficult to keep a dog from jumping the fence, especially if they are athletic and confident. Credit: fotorince | Getty Images

A fenced yard can be great when you have a dog. It gives them a safe place to play, relieve themselves, and enjoy being outside as well as providing a reasonably controlled environment for training, exercise, and enrichment activities. However, that safety can disappear quickly if your dog finds a way to get out of the yard.

It’s safe to assume that if a dog can get over, under, or through a barrier, she will. This raises the question of how to keep a dog in the yard once she figures out how to beat the fence. To be honest, the only reliable way to keep a dog from jumping the fence is to build a better fence. Training your dog to respect boundaries can help, but there is no way to guarantee that training will hold if something frightening or exciting happens while you are not there to reinforce the behavior you expect.

Why Dogs Escape

Identifying the cause of the problem won’t change how to keep a dog in the yard; to reiterate, if a dog is capable of getting out, always assume the time will come when she will. However, having an idea of what motivates your dog might offer some insight into how to improve her life overall. While the human/canine communication barrier prevents us from knowing exactly why a specific dog might decide to leave when an opportunity presents itself, we can make some educated guesses:

  • Boredom: A dog who is not getting enough stimulation may feel the need to go look for something better to do than hanging around in the same old space doing the same old things.
  • Loneliness: While some dogs are fine by themselves, others don’t like to be alone for long periods of time. If company can be found outside the yard, then over the fence they will go if they can manage it.
  • Separation anxiety: A dog experiencing separation anxiety may attempt to get back to where she feels safe – namely, with her humans. If this seems like it might be why your dog is trying to escape, it’s time to stop putting her out in the yard alone and first work on resolving her anxiety. Anxiety and fear can drive a dog to extreme measures such as flinging herself at the fence, biting or tearing at barriers, or forcing her way through too-small gaps.
  • Fear: Similarly, if something in the yard scares a dog to the point where she feels the need to escape, she will be very motivated to find a way out, fence or no fence.
  • External stimulation: There are a plethora of things that can trigger a dog’s desire to approach something they can’t reach because of the fence. Whether it’s chasing squirrels or wanting to get to another dog or human, seeing something on the other side can create a need to get out.
  • Fun: Sometimes the grass just looks greener on the other side. Exploring can be reason enough to go wandering even if there is plenty of fun stuff to do at home.

Good Fencing for Dogs

While no barrier is perfect, a good fence will go a long way toward keeping your dog in and other animals and humans out. Things to consider when assessing fencing for dogs include:

  • Your dog: Step one is to observe your dog, keeping in mind any traits or behaviors that might play a role in how she interacts with a fence. For example, an energetic, athletic dog may need a taller, stronger fence than one who just wants to laze around in the sun when outside. That goes double for a dog who has shown signs of wanting to jump or climb. On the other end of the fence, a small dog or a dog who wants to dig may need something that sits flush with or below ground level. Keep in mind that a puppy or a dog who is new to the household may become more willing to test the fence as she gains confidence.
  • Fence height: While 6 feet is generally considered a safe bet for most dogs, there is no fool-proof guide to guessing the right fence height. Typically, taller dogs call for taller fences, but there are plenty of small dogs that can get some serious airtime and they have less mass to weigh them down when climbing. It’s worth noting that the current record holder for “highest jump by a dog” logged a leap of 75.5 inches (6.3 feet). The record was set for a clean jump; if a dog can get a paw on something to give them a lift, or jump high enough to get paws over a support and climb the rest of the way, even a 6-foot fence might not be enough if you’ve got a real athlete on your hands.
  • Fence add-ons: For a determined climber or digger (see the sidebar below), there are some options to help keep them from getting out. An inward slanting panel at the top of a fence can make it harder to climb over while a concrete strip or L-shaped footer buried underground can serve to keep a digger contained.
  • Gaps and spacing: Pay attention to any gaps in the fencing, particularly at corners, gates, and where the fence meets the ground. Also note how closely spaced the fencing material is. A good rule of thumb is that if the dog can get her head through, the rest of her could follow.
  • Material: Discussing the pros and cons of fencing materials could be an article unto itself. In short, the best option depends a lot on the dog, location, and available budget. Of the more commonly used materials, chain link and other metal mesh fences are durable, low-maintenance, and often more budget friendly. However, they are climbable, flexible, and often have gaps at gates or corners. Wooden panel fencing provides more privacy and less external stimulation, but tends to require more maintenance, especially in harsher climates. It can also be chewable and provide purchase for determined climbers. Vinyl panel fencing is lower maintenance and longer-lasting than wood while offering many of the same benefits. It is also slippery enough to make climbing difficult, but can be more expensive and harder to repair if damaged. Brick or stone walls are great for containing dogs but can get very pricey, especially if they need to be taller than a few feet.

Extending Existing Fencing

When it comes to extending a fence your dog has already (or nearly) escaped, half measures generally won’t cut it. For example, if you were to add only a foot to a fence your dog has jumped or climbed over before, you may end up encouraging her to just try harder next time. The same goes for diggers; a footer that goes a short way past the depth your dog dug to previously might actually teach her to dig deeper. Also, filling in or reinforcing only the spot your dog dug out of may push her to try other spots along the fence instead. To be effective, fence extensions need to be significant to stand a chance.

Two Types of Canine Escape Artists

There are two individuals in my dog history – both beloved residents of the family kennel – that came immediately to mind when I started writing this article. The first, Lupe, was a joyful and relentless digger. She tunneled everywhere – in between runs in the kennel (which then had packed pea-gravel footing), under fences separating the dog yards, and out under the main dog paddock fence. She was also a big fan of bringing friends. If she was in the yard with a buddy, she’d urge them through the hole. If she was solo, she’d dig into another run or yard before heading out to explore the neighborhood. We were very, very lucky that nobody got hurt or lost before we figured out that she could and would go through pretty much anything even remotely diggable the moment her humans turned their backs.

Lupe has the honor of being the impetus for one of the kennel’s most expensive fencing renovations to date. In order to make a safe place for her (and her daughter, who picked up her mother’s hobby), we ended up renting a backhoe and digging a trench around the perimeter of every fence on the property meant to contain a dog. From there, we installed L-shaped panels that extended two feet below ground and one foot in. Lupe spent six months spot testing the new fence before deciding her digging efforts were better spent on gopher holes.

The second, Blue, was a climber. In his case, we didn’t figure that out for a while. He came to us as a rescue with a plethora of tick-borne illnesses. Recovery was slow but when his energy finally started to come back, he began climbing the fences, which were mostly chain link or wire mesh over wood. In his case, the climbing seemed to be motivated by separation anxiety. Especially in the early days, when he was still learning that we were his and he was ours, he really struggled with not having a human in sight and would do what he felt he needed to do to fix that – including scaling 6-foot chain link.

Trust-building and training helped him to feel more comfortable and eventually he was able to happily spend time in the yard, but he was always a climber. We ended up adding a chain link roof to one of the outdoor dog runs so he would have a safe place to hang out and get some fresh air without us being right there with him.

The Dangers of Tie-outs and Invisible Fences

It may be tempting to look for other ways to restrain your dog outside if existing fencing isn’t doing the trick, especially since a new, dog-safe fence can be a major expense. Unfortunately, there aren’t many good options available.

While it was once a commonly used approach, leaving a dog outside on a line or chain puts her at significant risk of injury. First, it’s too easy for a dog to get tangled in the line, even if there aren’t any obvious objects to get stuck on. If the line gets wrapped around a leg, or worse, around the dog’s neck, it can cause sprains, broken bones, or strangulation. There is also the risk of neck and back injuries if the dog were to get jerked to a sudden stop by outrunning the length of line or chain.

Electronic “invisible” fences, which usually work by supplying a shock, vibration, or sound via a special collar when the dog goes past the set boundary, aren’t a good way to go either. Even if you pick a “pain free” option that cues the dog with sound or vibration and provide training based on positive associations, it comes back to the question of “Will it hold when something scary or thrilling happens?” Let’s say a loose dog comes running through the barrier (which he can’t see or feel) and starts a fight with your dog. In the fear and confusion, how likely is it that your dog will remember her training and prioritize staying within the boundary over her own life?

What to Do if You Don’t Have a Dog-Proof Fence

Whether it’s the expense, the circumstances (such as rental property rules), or if you’ve just found yourself sharing your life with an incredible dog who can get through anything not designed to hold a grizzly bear, building a better fence isn’t always possible. It’s worth remembering that a fenced yard is not a requirement for giving your dog a good life. As long as you are able to provide her with appropriate exercise and enrichment through walks, training, and other activities, she doesn’t need to be loose in a yard to be happy and healthy.

Are Dogs Ticklish?

By
Kate O'Connor
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0
Some dogs are ticklish, and some of these enjoy being tickled.
Many dogs are ticklish on their bellies and under their front legs. Credit: Photos by R A Kearton | Getty Images

There is little question about whether humans experience tickling sensations, but are dogs ticklish as well? The short answer is yes. Light touches and scratches on sensitive spots can yield very similar reactions in dogs and humans such as squirming, twitching, and playful vocalizations.

Alongside the anecdotal evidence, researchers at the University of California noted in a study that knismesis, defined as a light tickling or itching sensation, “appears to be widespread across many mammals” including dogs. Although the topic of canine ticklishness has only been sparsely researched, it is generally acknowledged that dogs as a species do experience ticklishness.

Where are Dogs Ticklish?

When it comes to if or where a specific individual is ticklish, results will vary. Some dogs will wiggle and grin at the mere suggestion of being scratched on the right spot while others just don’t seem to experience the sensation. Some are only ticklish as young puppies, but others remain ticklish throughout their lives. For dogs that are ticklish, common spots include:

  • Sides
  • Belly
  • Chest
  • Ears
  • Base of the tail
  • Paws

To Tickle or Not to Tickle

For humans, tickling is usually a sign of closeness – just think of how odd and uncomfortable it would be if a perfect stranger walked up to you and tried to tickle you. The same holds true for dogs. Most dogs are much more likely to enjoy being tickled by a known and trusted human rather than a stranger.

Also like humans, enjoyment of tickling sensations differs between dogs. Some love it. Others loathe it. For those that like it, tickling can be a fun part of playtime.

If you don’t yet know your dog’s preferences, go slowly to avoid creating an unpleasant experience. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you when you touch potentially sensitive spots. If he moves away from the sensation, tenses up, or exhibits stress behaviors such as yawning or lip-licking, it’s time to find another game. On the other hand, if he wiggles around on his back with his feet in the air and his tongue lolling out when you tickle his belly, it’s a good sign he’s having fun too.

Another thing to watch out for is that tickling can be fun at first but become overwhelming if it goes on too long. Take breaks to assess how your dog is feeling and stop before the sensation becomes too much to be enjoyable. Be sure to respect your dog’s boundaries if he moves away or begins showing signs of being uncomfortable.

Gear and Ticklishness

Every once in a while, there is a piece of gear – such as a harness, collar, backpack, or jacket – that just hits a dog’s ticklish spots wrong. Even if the dog typically enjoys being tickled during playtime, dealing with the sensation while on a walk or trying to rest could become annoying or uncomfortable. Some signs that a piece of equipment might be tickling or hurting a dog include:

  • Skin shivering
  • Biting at gear
  • Walking stiffly or refusing to walk
  • Scratching excessively

If your dog is demonstrating any of these behaviors, the first step is to make sure his gear is properly adjusted and fits him well. If that doesn’t resolve the issue, it’s time to find something that doesn’t hit ticklish spots.

Overall, tickling can either be a fun part of bonding and playtime or something that creates a barrier between you and your dog. It’s up to you to ensure everyone is having a good time.

Can Dogs Eat Rice?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Dogs can eat rice and its a staple bland food to feed a dog with an upset dog.
Rice is a great bland food for dogs, but some dogs won’t eat it without something added to it, like chicken. Credit: hxyume | Getty Images

The long and the short of it is – yes, dogs can eat rice.

Cooked white rice is traditionally fed to dogs with an upset gastrointestinal (GI) tract because rice is bland and therefore easy on the GI tract. However, some dogs won’t eat it without some cooked plain chicken breast or boiled hamburger added to it.

Cooked without spices or salt, white rice is easy to digest and a good source of nutrition as it contains calcium and vitamins. It is gluten-free for dogs who are sensitive to wheat. Rice also adds fiber, making it an excellent choice for a dog recovering from pancreatitis.

Can Dogs Eat Brown Rice?

Dogs can eat cooked brown rice. Brown rice has more vitamins than white rice, but it can be harder to digest so it is not as easy on an upset stomach.

Brown rice has a lower glycemic index than white rice, making it a better for diabetic dogs as it won’t influence blood glucose as much. Jasmine rice is also fine for dogs.

What You Should Know About Dogs and Rice

Rice needs to be cooked plain without adding spices or salt. While your dog might be attracted to fried rice, it is not healthy for him. If your dog turns his nose up at plain rice, try adding some low salt bouillon to the cooking water.

You should only use a combo of rice and boiled chicken or hamburger short term for gastrointestinal upsets as it is not a balanced diet.

All types of rice are considered “high carb,” so should not be overfed as it could cause weight gain in dogs. The carbohydrates also can contribute to blood glucose spikes, which can be dangerous for diabetic dogs.

Many dog foods include rice as part of their balanced formulas. It is a good grain substitute for dogs with gluten problems, such as Irish Setters with their gluten enteropathy. Some dogs don’t handle rice well. Plain mashed potato – emphasis on “plain” – can work for those dogs who need a bland diet.

Aggression at Dog Parks

By
Nancy Kerns
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3
A prominent display of dog park rules.
Some parks try to impose common-sense rules to help people keep their dogs safe. Photo by Petra Richli, Getty Images

We’ve all got stories about terrible things that we’ve seen or heard about that happened at a dog park: Dogs who fought, dogs who got killed, dogs who bit people. Nevertheless, I think we all could acknowledge that in a perfect world, large and safely fenced parks where dogs can run off-leash are a valuable asset to many dogs; the ability to run outdoors improves their physical and mental health. And some of the dogs and some of the people like to socialize there. The problem is, how to keep anyone from hurting each other!

In some cities or towns, people try to regulate or legislate rules or guidelines to try to reduce the occurrence of tragedies. “No aggressive dogs,” the signs might broadly state (though there are plenty of people who can’t identify any but the most violent acts of canine aggression).

In contrast, other parks take a micromanaging approach, forbidding people from bringing food, toys, or children into the park, banning intact dogs and puppies under a certain age, and providing spaces for smaller and larger dogs and strictly enforcing this separation. If observed, all of these rules will help prevent certain acts of aggression between dogs – but any time a mixed population of dogs and their humans gather off-leash, there is a chance that disagreements will happen, no matter how diligently all the rules are followed.

I would argue that there are just as many potentially aggressive humans at these parks as there are dogs who exhibit aggressive behavior, so I was amused to see a sign in one dog park recently that confirmed my bias and gave attendees a way to bring in a higher authority to handle aggression-related disputes:

 

It’s probably not funny. I recently read about a dog-park tragedy where a Shi-Tzu’s owner shot and killed another person’s Rottweiler after the large dog grabbed and was shaking the small dog. It’s only natural to try to place blame with one party or the other. It sounded like the off-leash Shi-Tzu ran up to the leashed Rottweiler barking; did the small dog initiate the aggression? Was the Rottweiler dog-aggressive; is that why the owner had the dog (and another Rottweiler) on leash in an off-leash park? Perhaps none of those dogs should have been a dog park, and certainly not in the same area; it’s safest when small and large dogs have separate areas to play in. But I have experienced a situation where a 25-pound dog caused injuries that killed a 12-pound dog, so a separate small-dog area is not the only answer.

If I still lived in an urban area where there are few places to let my dogs run, and I had young adult dogs who would benefit from more exercise than I could provide on leash, I would likely still make an occasional visit to a dog park. But I’d never take a puppy or insecure adolescent to a dog park. I’d take a friendly, adult dog only during hours when a park was very lightly populated – and I’d always observe the dogs (and humans!) who were present in the park before I entered. I’d want to see playful dogs who seemed to be attentive to their attentive owners; I won’t go into a park if all I see are folks who are drinking coffee and looking at their phones, or gabbing with other owners and not watching their dogs. And I wouldn’t even turn off the car if I see any aroused-appearing dogs cruising around looking for other dogs to run toward and bully, or mobbing every new dog who walks into the park. Unfortunately, all of those disqualifiers are all-too-common at most dog parks.

(If you’re still inclined to visit dog parks with your dog, read Pat Miller’s 2017 piece about how to evaluate a dog park for a safer visit.)

Helping Your Dog with Physical Therapy

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Canine rehabilitation therapists help provide dogs with physical rehab.
Caption: Massage therapy is one of the treatments often offered by canine rehabilitation therapists. Credit: Georgiy Datsenko | Getty Images

The term “physical therapist” is reserved for practitioners who treat human patients, but canine rehabilitation therapists (that’s the correct term) provide the same assistance for dogs. As dog physical therapy becomes more widely available, some veterinarians have taken post-doctorate training in pain management, acupuncture, chiropractic, and other rehabilitation therapies.

For example, the American Association of Rehabilitation Veterinarians (AARV) educates veterinary surgeons, veterinarians, and pet owners about the effectiveness of this approach to pain management and the loss of function through illness or injury. More recently, the American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation was created to meet the unique needs of athletic and working animals by improving their coordination and mobility despite injuries, chronic illnesses like arthritis, and neurologic impairments.

If your veterinarians do not specialize in rehabilitation themselves, dog physical therapy usually begins with a referral to a canine rehabilitation therapist. These specialists earn credentials like CCRP (Certified Canine Rehabilitation Practitioner) and CCAT (Certified Companion Animal Rehabilitation Therapist) from credentialing programs that focus on canine anatomy and physiology, common medical conditions and injuries, assessment techniques, pain recognition, and rehabilitation programs. The treatments they offer can include:

  • therapeutic exercises
  • manual therapy
  • massage therapy
  • balance training
  • strength and conditioning exercises
  • swimming and hydrotherapy
  • gait training
  • proprioceptive training
  • therapeutic lasers
  • chiropractic adjustments
  • acupuncture/acupressure
  • electrical stimulation
  • thermal treatment with heat or cold
  • mobility products for pets
  • knee or leg braces
  • canine wheelchairs
  • magnetic field therapy
  • pain management strategies

It is important to note that the field of canine rehabilitation therapy is rapidly changing, with new technologies and approaches available or under development, making current research and continuing education important for rehabilitation therapists.

What Problems do Canine Rehabilitation Therapists Treat?

Much like similar treatments for humans, dog physical therapy can be used to address both acute and chronic conditions. If your dog is in pain, has lost strength or flexibility, has an uneven gait or loss of balance, is recovering from an accident, injury, surgery, or illness, or suffers from chronic symptoms that interfere with favorite activities, a canine rehabilitation therapist may be able to help with techniques, special equipment, and home exercise routines.

  • Orthopedic conditions such as cruciate ligament injuries, hip dysplasia, and osteoarthritis respond to rehabilitation exercise, pain management, and weight control.
  • Neurological conditions such as Invertebral Disc Disease (IVDD), degenerative myelopathy, and peripheral nerve injuries require rehabilitation exercise to maintain mobility, promote nerve healing, and improve the dog’s quality of life.
  • Post-surgical rehabilitation follows the repair of broken bones, surgeries, and amputations to aid recovery, restore function, and prevent complications. A variety of treatments speed recovery from surgery.
  • Musculoskeletal injuries like sprains, strains, ligament injuries and muscle tears recover faster with therapies that promote healing and restore function. Massage, manual therapy, and other hands-on treatments help alleviate muscle tension, improve circulation, promote relaxation, improve joint mobility, and reduce pain and stiffness.
  • Sports injuries include muscle strains, ligament sprains, and joint injuries in active, athletic dogs competing in competitions or other vigorous activities. Physical rehabilitation using various methods aids recovery and the safe return to previous activity levels.
  • Age and weight issues like degenerative joint disease, muscle weakness, a loss of mobility, and obesity interfere with a dog’s health and happiness. Physical therapy helps overweight dogs improve their fitness levels, prevent common injuries, and regain mobility.

Some treatments require equipment that can be used at home, such as balance discs or cushions, balance pads, ramps, and platforms. Other equipment, such as canine treadmills, swimming pools, and electronic/magnetic devices, require clinic appointments.

Finding a Canine Rehabilitation Therapist

As noted, the first step is usually a referral from your veterinarian, but you may be able to locate a practitioner by visiting:

CCRT Canine Rehabilitation Institute Therapists  

CCRP Practitioners – Veterinary Academy of Higher Learning

Cat and Dog Physical Therapy Near Me

CCAR Certified Companion Animal Rehabilitation Practitioners

AARV American Association of Rehabilitation Veterinarians

International Association of Animal Therapists

American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation

Most canine rehabilitation therapists prefer to work with veterinarians so that their patients receive thorough physical examinations and the therapist can consult the veterinarian about medical treatments or diagnoses the patient may require. At the same time, some dog owners have assembled their own physical therapy teams by working directly with canine acupuncturists, chiropractors, massage therapists, and other holistic practitioners. To find veterinarians who focus on nutrition and complementary therapies that enhance recovery and rehabilitation, visit the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association website, AHVMA.org, and click on “Find a Member.”

What to Expect on Your First Visit

An initial visit to a canine rehabilitation therapist begins with a physical examination that includes observations of the dog’s gait, movement, structure, flexibility, strength, muscle tension, areas of pain or discomfort, and mobility. The appointment may last over an hour, giving the therapist an opportunity to become acquainted with the dog and owner, discuss the dog’s medical history and behaviors, and review the owner’s goals for treatment and improvement.

Because canine rehabilitation therapists focus on mobility and movement, it may be helpful to video your dog walking or moving in different directions indoors or out. Also, if you can document specific injuries, accidents, or illnesses that have affected mobility, include their dates, diagnoses, and treatments.

The main goal of the initial visit is to develop a plan with whatever technologies, equipment, and treatments are appropriate. This often includes the recommendation of specific exercises to strengthen muscles affected by illness or injury. These are generally customized for the patient to include in an at-home exercise program. At-home exercise can be especially helpful for dogs whose hind legs are losing strength or who are recovering from accidents or surgery.

So that everyone in the family can support your dog’s recovery, a follow-up plan may include notes to share with family members to be sure that everyone can participate in the rehabilitation process and support the dog’s improvement.

Your canine rehabilitation therapist will keep detailed records of your dog’s progress, document specific therapies used, assess your home for how it may affect the dog’s functional status, develop exercise schedules for you and your dog to perform at home, evaluate the outcomes of rehabilitation plans, and schedule checkups to document the healing process.

What Do the Treatments Cost?

As with all veterinary visits, costs vary depending on the type of treatment needed, qualifications and experience of the therapist, and location. Initial consultations typically cost between $100 and $200 with individual treatment sessions costing $50 to $100 or more. The total cost for treatment depends on how many sessions are required. Home exercise programs and other do-it-yourself treatments help reduce costs.

Some pet insurance providers cover canine rehabilitation and other holistic/alternative therapies, provided the dog is covered before becoming ill or injured. This is why insurance experts recommend policies for young, healthy dogs, long before they develop the pre-existing conditions that deny coverage.

If you have ever worked with a physical therapist after breaking a bone, tearing a ligament, or suffering from a debilitating accident or illness, you know how valuable rehabilitation therapy can be. As an informed caregiver, you can be ready to help your dog benefit from the same hands-on approach by finding a canine rehabilitation therapist when needed.

Cerenia for Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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3
Cerenia for dogs is an injection for vomiting and motion sickness.
Not all dogs enjoy a car ride, and those that don’t may be battling motion sickness. Cerenia may help dogs with car sickness. Credit: Hillary Kladke | Getty Images

Cerenia is a lovely little wonder drug for vomiting in dogs. It works by blocking a neurotransmitter in the brain that triggers the vomiting reflex, and it works really well. Cerenia is FDA-approved to treat uncomplicated, acute vomiting (in dogs and puppies 8 weeks or older) as well as to prevent motion sickness (in dogs and puppies 16 weeks or older).

The Cerenia injection for dogs is a particularly fabulous therapeutic modality for acutely vomiting dogs. Sometimes when dogs are vomiting, they can’t hold anything down, including the medications that could help them. When your veterinarian gives your dog Cerenia by injection, it bypasses the GI tract, is rapidly absorbed systemically, and gets your dog feeling better as quickly as possible. Sometimes it feels like a miracle drug.

You should never use Cerenia without consulting your veterinarian first. There are times when the ability to vomit can be lifesaving for dogs. For example, if a toxin has been ingested or if the dog has an intestinal blockage. If your dog is vomiting, your veterinarian will take a careful history, do a thorough physical exam and any diagnostics deemed necessary to be sure it’s safe and appropriate before administering Cerenia.

Cerenia Dosage for Dogs

Cerenia dosage for dogs is different depending on what is being treated. For acute vomiting, the injectable dose is 1 milligram per kilogram of body weight (mg/kg BW). The oral dose for acute vomiting is 2 mg/kg BW. This means the oral dose for a 50-pound dog (22.7 kg) would be 45 mg. Cerenia comes in 16, 24, 60, and 160 mg tablets. Your veterinarian will round your dog’s dose to the nearest half tablet. So, this 50-pound dog would take two 24 mg tablets once a day for up to 5 days for acute vomiting. One dose lasts for 24 hours.

Cerenia dosage for prevention of motion sickness is much higher at 8 mg/kg BW. That means that same 50-pound dog’s dose would be 180 mg. Most veterinarians would likely dispense one 160 mg tablet for this dog. The dose should be given at least 2 hours before travel with just a little bite of food. Dogs with motion sickness do better without a full stomach. Again, each dose lasts 24 hours.

Side Effects of Cerenia for Dogs

Side effects of Cerenia for dogs are uncommon, but allergic reactions, decreased appetite, and drooling have been reported. Weight loss has been reported with chronic usage. Side effects are more likely to occur with the higher dosages used for preventing motion sickness.

Side effects of the Cerenia injection, again, are not common but include pain and swelling at the injection site. Caution is advised when using Cerenia in dogs with heart or liver problems.

Cerenia has been a super useful tool for practicing veterinarians who treat vomiting dogs on a regular basis, and a godsend for pet owners whose dogs get carsick when traveling.

As with other medications, veterinarians may use Cerenia off-label for other medical conditions, with informed consent from the pet owner. Some examples might include pets with chronic kidney disease or pets undergoing chemotherapy. Cerenia is frequently used pre-anesthetically to prevent peri-operative vomiting in dogs.

How to Comfort a Dog with a Fever

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
A dog with a fever can be comforted by cooling him down.
Running a fan for your dog can go a long way toward keeping him cool as the weather warms up and, along with water, can help get your dog’s body temperature down. Credit: Petra Richli | Getty Images

The two keys to relieving your dog’s fever are hydration and cooling his body temperature. Encourage your dog to drink water by mixing some low-sodium broth with water and wiping a few drops on his tongue. If he is willing to eat, you also can add water to his food to increase his moisture intake.

To help lower your dog’s body temperature, apply cool wet cloths to his ears, paw pads, and belly. You can run a fan by him and put him in an air-conditioned room or car if you’re traveling. Note: Dogs can suffer heat stroke, which is an emergency.

Even mild fevers merit a call to your dog’s veterinarian, however. A normal dog temperature is 100 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit.  A temperature of 103 degrees or higher is considered a fever in dogs, and 105 degrees or higher requires immediate emergency veterinary care. The most accurate measurement of your dog’s body temperature is with a rectal thermometer.

How to Identify a Dog Fever

Signs a dog has a fever include:

  • Lethargy and low energy level
  • Poor appetite
  • Panting
  • Shivering
  • Glassy eyes
  • Body feels hot
  • Runny nose
  • Vomiting

None of these signs are a sure-fire indication that your dog has a fever. And do not trust the old hand-on-the-forehead test, as your dog can feel warm to the touch if he is overexcited, stressed, or has been playing in direct sunlight.

The only way to verify that your dog has a fever is to take his temperature with a rectal thermometer. We recommend getting a digital thermometer as it will give you a fast, accurate reading.

If you are unable to take your dog’s temperature, call your veterinarian and explain what symptoms your dog is showing so they can guide you on the best way to proceed. While a mild fever is concerning, a severe fever or a suspected fever with other signs of illness may be an emergency.

How to Take Your Dog’s Temperature

Dip the tip of your thermometer in some plain lubricant or Vaseline, then gently insert it into your dog’s anus about one inch. We recommend having a helper to hold your dog’s head – most dogs tolerate having their temperature taken quite well, but it is still an uncomfortable experience and some dogs react strongly.

Once the thermometer has been inserted, press the measurement button. Many digital thermometers will beep once when they start reading and then again when the reading is finalized.

When you are done, clean the thermometer with soapy water and dry it before putting away. This ensures that it will always be ready to go when needed.

Are Ticks Active in the Winter?

By
Dan Muse
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Ticks are active in mild winters, and if you skip on prevention your dog may get bitten.
A little cold weather won’t cause ticks to go dormant! Keep your dog on a flea-and-tick preventative year-round. Credit: SolStock | Getty Images

Even the most obsessive dog owners may let their flea-and-tick guard down when the winter winds kick in to save some time and money. The only problem is that skipping your dog’s flea-and-tick preventative in the winter could come back to bite you and your furry family member.

 

 

Are Ticks Active in Winter?

It’s natural to wonder, are ticks active in winter? Yes and no. Thinking that ticks pay attention to the start and end of winter is a potentially dangerous misconception. During a mild winter, ticks remain active. And even during a normal winter in a typically cold region, a few days above freezing can reanimate ticks. In many areas, winters are mild enough for some tick species to remain active throughout the season, putting your dog – and you – at risk on walks or hikes.

Sub-Freezing Temps Slow Ticks Down

While most ticks may be dormant when the temperatures drop below freezing, fleas flourish indoors, so winter means little to these notorious bloodsuckers. They can attach to clothes, carpeting and more – and holiday travel may increase fleas’ mobility – and eventually these annoying insects will bring your dog a miserable winter experience. The point: You need year-round flea prevention, which is usually combined with the dog’s tick prevention.

Your Dog Needs 12 Months of Tick Prevention

Using year-round flea-and-tick prevention for your dog offers uninterrupted protection, preventing infestations before they start. Stopping and restarting medication leaves your dog vulnerable. Early intervention – such as a regular medication regime and tick checks after a walk or run – is essential for preventing the spread of fleas and ticks.

While admittedly less of a risk for dogs, winter ticks feast on deer and moose, which can potentially threaten your dog if she spends significant time in areas frequented by these large animals. It’s also rare, but your dog might inadvertently eat a winter tick while exploring an infested area and become ill.

Fight Dog Ticks Year-Round

Practicing year-long flea and tick protection is almost always a good practice, but if you’re insistent that you don’t need prevention in a region with consistently freezing temperatures and minimal indoor flea risk, discuss a seasonal approach with your veterinarian. Be aware, however, that some dogs with chronic illnesses may be best served by using year-round prevention.

When it comes to your dog, you can never be too conscientious. Most veterinarians recommend year-round protection but talk with him or her to determine the right approach, and possibly the right ingredients, for your dog. And, of course, take matters into your own hands and always check your dog for ticks, no matter how cold it is outside.

How Cold Is Too Cold for Dogs?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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How cold is to cold for a dog? It depends on the dog.
Consider that your dog’s reluctance to walk on a winter sidewalk has more to do with ice melt that may have been applied than the temperature itself. Credit: Brittany Denny | Getty Images

There is no hard-and-fast rule for how cold is too cold for dogs, but it is important to understand when it is too cold to walk your individual dog. Cold tolerance varies widely among dogs and is affected by the dog’s size, coat, activity level, and individual preferences. In general, many dogs are much happier playing outside in cold weather than we are, although some may need some winter outerwear or even just a raincoat.

How to Tell When it is Too Cold to Walk Your Dog

Signs that indicate your dog is too cold and wants to skip her walk today include:

  • Reluctance to go outside
  • Shivering
  • Picking up her feet frequently when standing
  • Lying down curled up in the snow
  • Unexplained limping that goes away once inside

Icy sidewalks may not be bothering your dog. Instead, consider one of the most common issues with winter walks for your dog: rock salt and other ice melt products. When salt melts ice on a sidewalk, it creates extremely cold water that may even sting when it touches your dog’s paw pads.

If your dog likes to play in the snow in your yard but hates walking on the salted sidewalk, consider getting waterproof booties to protect her feet from the ice melt. My favorite booties for my dogs in this situation are Pawz rubber boots, they’re inexpensive, and stay on well.

How Cold Is too Cold for My Dog?

To determine what temperatures are comfortable for your dog, consider her size, coat, activity level, and personal preferences. A shorter walk might be the best choice. It’s important to pay attention to what your dog is telling you and what she wants to do.

Coat Type

Coat type is a big indicator of your dog’s cold tolerance. Most northern breeds that were bred for dog sledding or hunting in arctic climates have dense, thick coats with multiple layers. The outer layer is long and harsh, repelling water. The inner layer is dense, soft, and wooly, perfectly insulating their bodies. These dogs were literally born for winter, and thrive in cold weather and snowy conditions even when temperatures dip below zero.

Some dogs look shorthaired at first glance but still have a very dense coat. For example, Labrador Retrievers have a thick coat to help keep them warm while swimming, and German Shepherd Dogs have a double coat with those two layers.

True shorthaired dogs, such as a Vizsla or Greyhound, do not have proper insulation. These dogs will often be happiest wearing a coat when outside in temperatures below freezing.

And not all longhaired dogs are well insulated. Yorkshire Terriers and Shih Tzu have long luxurious coats, but lack that warm wooly undercoat.

Size

Larger dogs are more tolerant of cold than small dogs. Big dogs have a smaller surface area compared to their overall body size, so they retain heat better. A big dog like a Rottweiler will probably have a blast hiking for hours in a winter wonderland, while a tiny Chihuahua is going to get cold quickly.

Bulk makes a difference too. Greyhounds may be tall, but they are also lean with minimal body fat. They will get cold much faster than a sturdy Bulldog.

Activity Level

Just like us, dogs heat up as they exercise. Unlike us, dogs only sweat from the bottom of their paws, so they don’t need to worry about sweaty bodies making them feel cold after winter exercise.

If your dog is running and playing outside, she will stay comfortable for a longer time than if she is just standing in the yard looking bored.

Personal Preferences

Even if your dog looks like a true winter warrior, she just may not like the cold. Other dogs who have small lean bodies and a short coat may love playing in the snow. Honor your dog’s opinions about winter weather and find indoor exercise options for those pooches who just don’t care for snowshoeing.

Leptospirosis in Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey
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Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection in dogs that can be prevented with vaccination.
Some of the ways dogs can contract leptospirosis include drinking from puddles or wading in standing water. CREDIT: PATSTOCK | Getty Images

Leptospirosis is caused by the bacteria Leptospira. Several species of mammals can become ill with leptospirosis, including dogs and humans. Leptospira bacteria are found worldwide. Leptospirosis in dogs can be prevented through proper vaccination. The initial series is two vaccines given three to four weeks apart. After the initial series, the leptospirosis vaccine is administered once a year.

As with any vaccine, your dog may experience lethargy, reduced appetite, and soreness after receiving the leptospirosis vaccine. In rare circumstances, dogs that receive the leptospirosis vaccine may experience a vaccine reaction—also referred to as an allergic reaction. Symptoms of a vaccine reaction include vomiting, diarrhea, facial swelling, hives, and severe coughing or difficulty breathing.

A vaccine reaction can occur in the first few minutes to a few hours after receiving a vaccine. Always seek immediate veterinary care if you think that your dog is experiencing a vaccine reaction.

Can Humans Get Leptospirosis?

Humans can get leptospirosis. According to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), the most common ways that people contract leptospirosis are:

  • Contact with water, soil, or food contaminated with the urine of infected animals
  • Contact with urine (or other bodily fluids, except saliva) from infected animals
  • Drinking contaminated water
  • Exposure to contaminated floodwaters

According to the CDC, transmission of leptospirosis between humans is rare. It is also rare to get leptospirosis from your dog if you practice good hygiene. Do not touch your dog’s urine with your bare hands. Wash your hands after handling items that have had contact with your dog’s urine.

Previous versions of the leptospirosis vaccine for dogs were found to contain high concentrations of bovine serum albumin. This was associated with a higher than usual rate of leptospirosis vaccine reactions in dogs. Recent advancements in vaccine manufacturing have resulted in a leptospirosis vaccine that is no more likely to cause an adverse event than the currently available distemper-adenovirus-parvovirus (DAP) and rabies vaccines.

What is Leptospirosis?

Leptospira is a spirochete bacteria—it is shaped and acts like a corkscrew. Its corkscrew shape and action make the Leptospira bacteria efficient at invading the organs of a dog’s body, such as the kidneys, liver, heart, and lungs.

There are over 250 serovars of the Leptospira bacteria that are known to cause leptospirosis in mammals worldwide. Think of the Leptospira bacteria as ice cream and each serovar as a different ice cream flavor. Ice cream always has the same base—milk, salt, cream, and vanilla extract. But there are hundreds of ice cream flavors, each with their own characteristics and nuances. Each serovar of leptospirosis is like a different flavor of ice cream.

The leptospirosis vaccine provides protection against the four most common serovars known to infect dogs. However, there are ten serovars that are known to cause leptospirosis in dogs in North America. The leptospirosis vaccine for dogs may provide some cross-protective immunity against the other six serovars. But that cross-protectiveness is not complete. It is still possible (but far less likely) for a fully vaccinated dog to become infected with leptospirosis.

How Dogs Get Leptospirosis

Leptospira bacteria are found in the urine of animals infected with leptospirosis, including rodents, wildlife, and other dogs. Soil and water where infected animals urinate will contain high numbers of Leptospira bacteria. Dogs become infected with leptospirosis through contact of their mucus membranes or open wounds with contaminated soil or water (see sidebar for more information).

How Dogs Get Leptospirosis

Dogs can contract leptospirosis through the following activities:

  • Swimming in natural bodies of water (such as rivers, lakes, or streams)
  • Wading into marshes or standing water
  • Walking anywhere outdoors
  • Drinking from puddles
  • Eating dirt
  • Being bitten by or killing infected wildlife or rodents
  • Living indoors where a rodent problem exists
  • Going to dog parks, doggie daycare, or dog kennels

According to the CDC, transmission of leptospirosis between humans is rare. It is also rare to get leptospirosis from your dog if you practice good hygiene. Do not touch your dog’s urine with your bare hands. Wash your hands after handling items that have had contact with your dog’s urine.

Dogs are at risk of contracting leptospirosis regardless of where they live. Leptospira bacteria are found worldwide and in a variety of environments. Dogs that reside in urban, suburban, and rural areas are all at risk for becoming ill with leptospirosis. Even dogs that only go outside in their fenced-in backyards can contract leptospirosis.

Symptoms of Leptospirosis in Dogs

Dogs with leptospirosis will have a decreased appetite, fever, and low energy level. They will drink more water and urinate more than usual. They may walk with a stiff gait and have difficulty getting comfortable when lying down. Dogs with leptospirosis may also develop a yellowing of the skin or eyes—this is called jaundice.

In some cases, dogs with leptospirosis may develop difficulty breathing, nosebleeds, swollen limbs, or bloody diarrhea or vomit. Leptospirosis can also cause inflammation inside the eyes  – this is called uveitis. Signs of uveitis include bloodshot eyes, squinting, or a haze that appears suddenly inside the front of the eyes.

How is Leptospirosis Diagnosed?

There are currently four tests available for aiding in the diagnosis of leptospirosis in dogs. Two of these are point-of-care tests that provide results in about ten minutes. The other two are laboratory tests that take about 2-5 days to return results.

The point-of-care tests detect antibodies to the leptospirosis bacteria in your dog’s blood. There are currently two point-of-care tests available in the United States—the WITNESS Lepto Rapid Test and the SNAP Lepto Test.

The WITNESS Lepto Rapid Test looks for antibodies to the four most common leptospirosis serovars that infect dogs in North America. Although this is an excellent test that can be completed quickly at your dog’s veterinary hospital, there are two potential drawbacks. First, a dog that has recently been vaccinated for leptospirosis may test positive but may not have leptospirosis. Also, if your dog is infected with a serovar other than the four most common serovars, then he will test negative even though he has leptospirosis.

The SNAP Lepto Test looks for antibodies to a protein that is expressed on the surface of every Leptospira bacteria, regardless of serovar. As with the WITNESS test, there are two potential drawbacks. One is that a dog that has been vaccinated for leptospirosis within the past year may test positive on this test but may not have leptospirosis. The second is that a dog that has leptospirosis may test negative if he has been infected for less than seven days.

These two point-of-care tests have their place in a clinical setting despite their drawbacks. Test results must be interpreted in conjunction with your dog’s symptoms and other laboratory findings. Your veterinarian will likely recommend additional blood work—including a complete blood count, chemistry panel, and coagulation profile – as well as urinalysis and radiographs (x-rays) of his chest and abdomen.

If your dog’s symptoms and preliminary lab results are consistent with signs of leptospirosis, your veterinarian will recommend confirmatory tests for leptospirosis. These tests will take anywhere from two to five days to complete at a laboratory. Your veterinarian will likely begin treatment for leptospirosis while waiting for these results.

There are two confirmatory tests for leptospirosis that are completed at laboratories outside of the veterinary hospital. These include the microscopic agglutination test (MAT) and the nucleic acid amplification test (NAAT), sometimes known as a PCR test.

The MAT looks for antibodies to five to seven different leptospirosis serovars. Instead of a positive/negative result, the MAT returns a titer for each serovar. A dog that has been vaccinated for leptospirosis may show a positive titer for the serovars included in the vaccine. Positive serovar titers for previous vaccination tend to be low while serovar titers for infection tend to be high.

If the MAT is submitted early in the course of disease, then the titer of the serovar responsible for the infection may be low. If your dog meets all of the other clinical criteria for leptospirosis and responds to treatment, your veterinarian may recommend repeating the MAT two weeks after he has recovered from his illness. If there is a significant rise in any of your dog’s serovar titers, then this confirms the diagnosis of leptospirosis.

The NAAT looks for DNA that is specific for and common to all serovars of leptospirosis. Both blood and urine samples are submitted to the laboratory for this test. Dogs that have leptospirosis are more likely to have a positive blood test within the first week of illness. After the first week of illness, the urine test is more likely to be positive than the blood test.

Dogs that have been exposed to the Leptospira bacteria but do not have leptospirosis may have a positive result on the urine NAAT. These dogs are called subclinical carriers of leptospirosis. Leptospira bacteria are not continuously shed in the urine of infected dogs, so some dogs with leptospirosis may have a negative result on the urine NAAT.

There are two other tests that may be used to determine if a dog has leptospirosis. Darkfield microscopy or bacterial culture can be used to look for the Leptospira bacteria. These tests are difficult to execute, can take a long time to complete, and are only available at specialized laboratories. A positive darkfield microscopy test is supportive of a diagnosis of leptospirosis and a positive culture test confirms that a dog has leptospirosis. However, these tests are often not used because of their limitations.

So, what does all of this mean? In reality, there is no one straightforward and immediate way to diagnose leptospirosis in dogs. To address this problem, the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM) formulated a list of diagnostic criteria to help veterinarians determine if a dog should be suspected to have leptospirosis.

If your dog is suspected to have leptospirosis, treatment should begin immediately pending the results of confirmatory tests. Treatment should be continued unless it is determined that your dog does not have leptospirosis. Test results that confirm a diagnosis of suspected leptospirosis include:

  • A significant increase in the titer for a Leptospira serovar between the first MAT and the MAT completed once a dog has recovered from illness
  • A positive NAAT on a blood sample (not a urine sample)
  • A positive leptospirosis culture test

Treatment of Leptospirosis

If your dog is suspected to have leptospirosis, your veterinarian will recommend hospitalizing your dog for treatment. Your dog will initially receive an injectable antibiotic and then be transitioned to oral doxycycline once he is eating again.

Dogs with leptospirosis may have one or more of the following syndromes associated with their illness:

  • Acute kidney injury (AKI)
  • Cholangiohepatitis (inflammation of the liver and gallbladder)
  • Leptospiral pulmonary hemorrhage syndrome (bleeding into the lungs)
  • Bleeding disorder
  • Uveitis (inflammation of the inner lining of the eyes)
  • Pancreatitis (inflammation of the pancreas)
  • Enteritis (inflammation of the intestines)
  • Myocarditis (inflammation of the heart)

Treatment for leptospirosis in dogs includes providing support to the organs negatively impacted by the infection. This may include intravenous fluid therapy, blood product transfusions, vitamin and electrolyte supplementation, and medications to protect and support the gastrointestinal tract and liver.

The prognosis for recovery is good for dogs that have mild illness and only one syndrome associated with leptospirosis. The prognosis worsens with the number of syndromes present or for dogs that experience acute kidney failure.

The Leptospirosis Vaccine for Dogs

The most effective way to minimize the risk of contracting leptospirosis is by giving the leptospirosis vaccine. The currently available vaccines are more than 80% effective at preventing leptospirosis in a research setting. It is reportedly rare to diagnose leptospirosis in dogs that have received the lepto vaccine series and the annual boosters.

It is difficult to prevent potential exposure to leptospirosis given the ubiquitous nature of Leptospira bacteria. Some activities may put dogs at greater risk of contracting leptospirosis. The following can help minimize your dog’s leptospirosis risk:

  • Restrict or eliminate access to marshes and standing water
  • Limit coprophagy (eating other animal’s feces) and eating dirt
  • Prevent drinking water from puddles
  • Control rodent populations on your property
  • Minimize exposure to wildlife

Dogs can recover from leptospirosis if the disease is recognized early and treated aggressively. But the best prognosis comes with never getting leptospirosis in the first place. Talk to your veterinarian about vaccinating your dog for leptospirosis and other preventative measures you can put in place to protect your dog.

Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Rocky mountain spotted fever in dogs is a tick borne illness that can be fatal.
Rocky Mountain spotted fever is transmitted by several types of ticks, including the American dog tick, the Rocky Mountain wood tick, and brown dog tick, according to the CDC. Ticks are arachnids, just like spiders, and have eight legs. Chalabala | Getty Images

Rocky Mountain spotted fever is a tick-borne disease that can infect dogs. A variety of ticks can carry the rickettsial bacteria that causes Rocky Mountain spotted fever in dogs, which means the illness has a wide range and is not limited to the Rocky Mountain area. The first case I ever dealt with was on Long Island, N.Y.

Signs of Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever

Symptoms that a dog has Rocky Mountain spotted fever are initially similar to many illnesses, including other tick-borne diseases. Joint pain, a drop in appetite, and fever are common. Some dogs will show gastrointestinal signs.

A sign more specific to Rocky Mountain spotted fever is blood vessel wall damage. Petechiae, or small hemorrhages, may be noticed on the conjunctiva of dog’s eyes or on the gums.  Hemorrhages may be noticed in other areas as well.

These vasculitis problems due to Rocky Mountain spotted fever also can lead to damage in the kidneys, brain, and heart. Neurologic signs in your dog include tremors, a wobbly gait, and being hypersensitive when petted or touched.

Rocky Mountain spotted fever can be deadly, so early detection and treatment are important.

Tricky Diagnosis for Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever

Diagnosis can be tricky, since there is no quick screening test for Rocky Mountain spotted fever. A complete blood count and chemistry panel may suggest the disease is causing your dog’s symptoms. Advanced laboratory tests, such as polymerase chain reaction (PCR) tests, can identify acute cases. Immunofluorescent antibody tests can verify the infection but take weeks.

If your veterinarian suspects Rocky Mountain spotted fever in your dog, she will often prescribe doxycycline for a three-week period without an exact diagnosis. Whatever you do, give your dog the full prescribed three weeks of medicine. Some dogs have relapsed after a two-week treatment.

The silver lining with Rocky Mountain spotted fever is that dogs do seem to be immune to the disease after having the illness.

Preventing Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever

How can you prevent this disease? Tick control, tick control, tick control.

Depending on your situation, you may use monthly topicals, monthly oral medications, or some of the longer acting tick-control medications. During peak tick activity times (spring and fall), talk with your veterinarian about adding a spray before your walks, especially on your dog’s chest, neck, and head.

When you return from your walk, wipe down the dog with a lint roller, which can catch many ticks before they attach to the dog’s skin. This is especially useful on short-coated dogs. For heavily coated dogs, it doesn’t hurt to do a blow dryer check when you get home, blowing cool air on the dog’s coat so you can check his skin and check for ticks. Carefully remove any ticks you find. If you’re not sure what ticks look like, find out. In addition, consider making your yard non tick friendly.

Rocky Mountain spotted fever is part of the One Health initiative that is coordinating information among all health-care professionals, including doctors and veterinarians.

Spring Allergy Challenges

By
Nancy Kerns
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Spring is the time of year where a dog's allergies might be most aggravated.
Woody’s skin on his inner thighs is pink and slightly irritated from licking. In past years, when he wasn’t given Apoquel, the area of irritation was much larger and much more red. He never quite developed a hot spot, but was on the verge of one. This spring, we are waiting for an appointment with our vet to discuss Cytopoint.

There is no sound in the world that can wake up a dog owner faster than the “Ulp, ulp, ulp” sound of a dog who is about to vomit. But is there any sound that’s more annoying, and then concerning, than “Lick, lick, lick, lick?”

It’s spring-time allergy season around here, and if that licking sound wasn’t already tipping me off, my own incredibly itchy eyes would fully inform me of that fact. Where I live, close to the upper right edge of California’s 450-mile-long Central Valley, we’ve had abundant rainfall for the second year in a row and the drought-stricken trees are celebrating with the most bounteous pollen dusting I’ve ever seen. Everything outdoors is covered with yellow powder – and of course, our dogs can’t so much as step outside without getting that pollen all over their feet.

At 2 years old, Boone so far seems impervious, which is awesome. But, about three years ago, poor 8-year-old Woody started suffering in the spring. He’s never scratched or licked himself so much that he’s gotten a hot spot, but that’s only because I work hard to keep him comfortable. He focuses all of his attention to his bare tummy and inner thighs, which become pink and irritated from all of that licking, but, at least so far, he has not developed a secondary bacterial infection.

In an attempt to reduce his exposure to all of that pollen, I have been trying to keep Woody indoors, and trying to rinse and dry his feet and wipe his coat with a towel every time he comes back indoors after being outside. I say “try,” because with two other humans in the house (my husband and our 11-year-old grandson), neither of whom are all that attentive to Woody’s allergy symptoms, he keeps getting let outdoors when I’m otherwise occupied. Woody wants to be outside, he keeps asking them to let him outside. The weather has been so warm and delicious lately, all he wants to do is lie in the sun on the warm deck or roll around on the lawn . . . the pollen-covered deck and lawn. Argh!

A few years ago, I became a convert to the benefits of Apoquel and Cytopoint, which are relatively new medications for dogs with severe allergies. For the past three years, I’ve made an appointment with our veterinarian to get Woody a prescription for Apoquel when the “lick, lick, lick” sound signaled the start of his allergy season. But this year, I’ve also made a call to get an appointment to discuss getting him an injection of Cytopoint, after seeing what it did for my sister’s little white terrier-mix Daisy.

Like Woody, Daisy suffers from spring-time allergies, but she also suffers in the fall, when the rain starts and fungal spores start to bloom. Because I am the designated veterinary driver in my family, last fall, when her itching became overwhelming, I brought her to a vet who recommended Cytopoint over Apoquel as a symptom reliever. Apoquel has a dampening effect on the immune system, which calms the hypersensitivity to pollen, but this can also cause any tumors the dog might have to grow unchecked by the immune system. We don’t know that Daisy (who is at least 12 years old) has any tumors, but it was her vet’s opinion that many older dogs do, and why mess around with that when Cytopoint, which doesn’t have this potential side effect, works just as well or better? She gave Daisy an injection of Cytopoint, and it worked like a miracle drug; she stopped licking and scratching herself within hours. Daisy didn’t scratch or lick herself for months – until recently, in fact, when my sister took her in for another injection.

When someone is allergic to something, the best course of action is to prevent their exposure to it – and that’s where I am coming from with trying to keep Woody indoors while the trees are dumping so much pollen, and wiping him down and hosing his feet before he comes inside from his required trips outdoors. But the pollen is everywhere; it cannot be completely evaded in our rural home. So some symptom control is both reasonable and appreciated.

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