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Finding The Best Large-Breed Puppy Food

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Large breed puppies need large breed puppy food to support their greater growth.
Puppies who are expected to reach an adult size of 50 pounds or more must be fed a diet that is formulated for large-breed puppies. Failure to select appropriate foods for these pups can have lifelong affects on their health. Photo by Jill Lehmann Photography, Getty Images

Choosing a food for a new puppy is always a bit worrisome, but for those who adopt large or giant breed pups, selecting the right food is critically important. To prevent rapid growth and ensure proper development, adjustments must be made to the diet formulations for large breed puppy food for puppies who are expected to meet or exceed an adult size of 70 pounds. Here’s what to look for when shopping for the best food for large breed puppies – and how to know when you should stop feeding large breed puppy food.

When looking for a large or giant breed puppy food, it is important to read the statement of nutritional adequacy on the packaging. The standards for the nutritional adequacy of dog foods have been set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). You will see one of the following statements on foods formulated for growth (which is what most of us call puppy food) or all life stages (which includes the growth stage):

  • “[Pet Food Name] is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for growth/all life stages including growth of large-size dogs (70 lbs. or more as an adult).” This is the statement that must be on the label of any food you buy for your large-breed puppy.
  • “[Pet Food Name] is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for growth/all life stages except for growth of large-size dogs (70 lbs. or more as an adult).” This statement means that the product is not formulated for the needs of large breed puppies. Do not buy products with this statement if you are feeding a large-breed puppy.

How large-breed puppy food is different

Foods that are formulated for smaller puppies can cause large breed puppies to grow too quickly, which can make them prone to skeletal problems. When formulating diets specifically for large breed puppies, several nutritional factors are adjusted to moderate the puppies’ growth rate for a healthier frame.

While all puppies require foods that are higher in energy than foods for the maintenance of adult dogs, the amount of energy fed to large breed puppies needs to be controlled. While large breed puppies grow a lot, they need to grow slowly to prevent developmental orthopedic diseases such as osteochondrosis (a family of disorders that affect bone growth) and acute inflammatory joint disease, which can occur subsequent to osteochondrosis. Feeding a diet that is too calorically dense can lead to your puppy growing faster than their developing bones can accommodate. Because of this, diets for large breed puppies are lower in fat to help control the energy density.

The minerals required for proper skeletal development, mainly calcium and phosphorus, also need to be controlled. While calcium is needed for strong bones, excess calcium can be harmful. Unlike adult dogs, puppies cannot control the amount of calcium they absorb. This can lead to a surplus of the mineral, resulting in skeletal malformations. Diets formulated for large and giant breed puppies have a maximum of 1.8% calcium by dry matter (DM) – significantly less than the maximum of 2.5% calcium (DM) allowed for smaller breed dogs.

Because of the way that calcium interacts with other minerals, a dietary excess of calcium can cause deficiencies in nutrients like phosphorus. Because of the way their levels in a diet affect each other, a proper ratio of calcium and phosphorus is vital for the development of healthy bones. For large and giant breed puppies, the ideal calcium to phosphorus ratio should be between 1.1:1 and 1.4:1. Large breed puppies being fed a complete and balanced diet should not be given any supplemental calcium.

Note:

While AAFCO defines “large breed puppies” as those who are expected to meet or exceed a healthy adult weight of 70 pounds, many nutritionists recommend using 50 pounds as the cut-off for large breed dogs.

When to stop feeding large-breed puppy food

As a general guideline, you can begin to transition from large breed puppy food to adult dog food when your puppy has reached about 80% to 90% of their adult size. This typically corresponds to your puppy reaching his full height, with continued muscle and weight development as he continues to mature. Since large breed dogs grow at a slower rate compared to smaller breeds, their skeletal development typically takes between 12 and 24 months to complete. Consult your veterinarian to assess your dog’s growth to determine the best time to transition to adult food.

Braces for Dogs with a Torn ACL

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Repetitive action can
A torn ACL in a dog can occur due to repetitive stress, like throwing a ball over and over. Credit: Rapid Eye | Getty Images

If your dog tore his anterior cruciate ligament (ACL), your veterinarian may recommend surgery. That can be stressful for you, your dog, and your wallet. If you want to avoid surgery for your dog’s torn ACL, you may wonder if you can use an ACL dog brace and give your dog reasonable comfort and care. The answer: Yes, but you must purchase a good ACL brace for your dog.

Note: Dogs don’t have an ACL. They have a cranial cruciate ligament (CCL), so the correct diagnosis is a torn CCL, but the terms are used interchangeably.

Wondering if your dog has a torn ACL, the signs of an acute ACL rupture are quite classic. Usually, the dog is running and playing and suddenly gives a yelp and becomes completely non-weight bearing on a hind leg. The dog often continues to move around but will hike up or hang the affected limb and run on three legs.

Surgery for Torn Dog ACL

Surgery in the form of a tibial-plateau-leveling osteotomy (TPLO) is indeed the ideal treatment for most cruciate tears, but ACL braces are proving to be a good solution, too. The trick is to get the right brace for a torn ACL in the dog.

A research survey of dog owners comparing custom stifle orthotics and TPLO surgery found high owner satisfaction for both methods. The study used the words “custom stifle orthotics.” In an attempt to get a brace quickly and inexpensively, you may be tempted to order a cloth brace online that fits all dogs. That’s not what your dog needs to offer support to your dog’s torn ACL. Your dog needs a custom brace made out of sturdy material. A good one to consider is the one from TailWind, but many good companies make custom braces for a dog with a torn ACL.

The goal of treatment for a torn ACL in your dog is to restore stability to the stifle joint. With the loss of an intact ACL/CCL, your dog’s stifle is unstable, so the tibia and femur bones can slide past each other, causing the infamous “drawer sign,” which occurs when the veterinarian holds the femur in place while the tibia can be pulled forward, like a sliding drawer. It’s a positive indication of a CCL rupture. This laxity causes pain and leads to the development of osteoarthritis.

Cost of an ACL Brace for Your Dog

A custom ACL brace for your dog will be more expensive, possibly $100 or more, though still less than surgery. It must be properly fit your dog, so he is comfortable walking with it. You will still need to do rehabilitation exercises and follow a protocol to allow healing.

Be aware that some problems with braces include sores from the brace not fitting perfectly or having poor padding, continued lameness even after time and rehab, your dog not tolerating his brace well, and, in the end, potentially needing surgery anyway.

No Quick Fix for Torn ACL in Dogs

So, obviously, braces are not a quick fix, anymore than surgery is. Sometimes a veterinarian will prescribe a brace post surgery to help your dog’s healing process.

Regardless of which method you choose, work with your veterinarian to be sure you have the correct diagnosis and for direction and input as you work your dog through recover.

Global Pet Expo

By
Nancy Kerns
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Trade expos like the pictured Superzoo, or the upcoming Global Pet Expo lets manufacturers show off their upcoming wares.
A view from an overhead walkway at Superzoo 2019, looking over just a part of the massive trade show floor.

By the time you read this, I will on my second day of a challenging feat of endurance: Attempting to walk every aisle of Global Pet Expo, the country’s largest pet products trade show. This is where pet products companies come to set up elaborate booths to show what they are making and selling these days. All the pet food companies and veterinary pharmaceutical companies will be there with gigantic, elaborate booths. Manufacturers of every type of pet gear imaginable will be there, from mass-producers of leashes, harnesses, collars, toys, beds, and so on, to tiny little mom-and-pop businesses who are there with inventions of their own creation: spill-proof bowls, reflective rain jackets, identification tags, bait bags – you name it. Pet supply store owners and managers come to find unique, useful, and/or profitable products to carry in their stores, and, often, to sign orders for what they will be selling in late 2024 and early 2025.

I’ve been to other large pet products trade shows before. Over a decade ago, I twice attended a now-defunct pet products show, the H. H. Backer show in Chicago. On my first trip there, I was determined to avoid engaging in conversation with any company representatives until I had walked the entire show; I thought I would take notes on that walk about which booths I wanted to return to on the second day to talk to the representatives. When I discovered, late in that first day, that there were two floors, and it had taken me six hours to merely walk up and down the aisles of just one floor, without stopping to pick up literature or ask questions of anyone about anything, I was momentarily defeated. I had to completely revise my tactics, or I wouldn’t have had a chance to to talk to anyone there.

In the last 10 years I’ve gone to Las Vegas a few times to attend SuperZoo, a trade show that is held in the Las Vegas Convention Center, a facility with 3.2 million square feet of available space. That’s where I learned that I can’t make eye contact with even a fraction of the people in the booths that I walk by there, because if I do, they will try to talk to me and promote their products, and I’ve never get through the whole show. And even though I would like to be friendly and encouraging to entrepreneurs who are promoting products that they’ve put their life saving and hearts into creating, after all these years of looking for unique and particularly useful gear for dogs and dog owners, I am a bit of a snob. There aren’t that many truly cool new and innovative products out there for me to recommend to you!

One year at SuperZoo, when I was planning a feature on products for dogs that contained CBD, I started picking up samples and literature from every booth I passed by that was making and selling supplements or treats (or shampoos or essential oils or candles) that contained CBD. After about 40 companies, I gave up and started fixing my attention on only those companies who could show me evidence that they had been around for five years or more. There were so many people jumping into that market that it was obvious that many of them would be out of business in that highly competitive market niche within a year.

And don’t get me started on folks who were selling a line of dog treats from special recipes they developed in order to help their old special-needs dog. Were they aware that there are dozens and dozens of people with nearly identical stories and products? How did they really hope to distinguish themselves from the 50 other super-nice people who were also making dog cookies? Ack!

But I love it when I spot something cool that I’ve never seen before, or have never seen done in that particular way. I’ll never forget my excitement when I first saw the unique mattress in the Snoozer Forgiveness Dog Sofa (which we promoted in our Gear of the Year 2017 edition) or the quick-fastening magnetic buckles on Curli’s Belka Comfort Harness (Gear of the Year 2022).

Global Pet Expo is being held at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Florida – a facility with 7 million square feet of event space. There are 1,100 companies exhibiting their wares at the Expo and I’ve only got two days to hunt among them for the coolest new products for dogs and dog owners; wish me luck!

Clearing the Air

By
Editorial Staff
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Kennel Cough eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Kennel Cough by CJ Puotinen

When Faith Thanas, an aromatherapist who lives in Leicester, Massachusetts, adopted a Doberman Pinscher from Louisiana one year after Hurricane Katrina, Sasha arrived in a van carrying 20 rescued dogs. A few days later, she started coughing.

To help soothe Sasha’s throat, Thanas mixed a blend of essential oils to spray in the air around the dog. She started with Ravensare (Cinnamonum camphora), one of the “must have” essential oils listed by Kristen Leigh Bell in her book Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals. As Bell explains, this gentle and tolerable antiviral, antibacterial essential oil supports the immune system and has tonifying effects.

Thanas then added Eucalyptus radiata, the gentlest of the many eucalyptus varieties available. It is known for its antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and expectorant properties. Bell writes, “Due to its gentleness, it is very appropriate for use in blends for animals for congestion, and it makes an excellent room air cleaner, deodorizer, and flea repellent.”

Eucalyptus globulus, the next ingredient, is the eucalyptus commonly found in chest rubs, cough drops, and cough syrups. It has a fresh antiseptic fragrance and, when inhaled, acts as a decongestant.

Thanas added Spike Lavender (Lavendula latifolia) for its powerful antibacterial properties.

After diluting the essential oils, Thanas used a spray bottle to mist the air around Sasha. “The results were instantaneous,” she recalls. “She stopped coughing, she was able to breathe, and she was so much more comfortable.”

For advice on preventing kennel cough as well as natural and effective ways to soothe the symptoms, purchase Kennel Cough from Whole Dog Journal.

Bordetella Vaccination

By
Editorial Staff
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Kennel Cough eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Kennel Cough by CJ Puotinen

Most boarding facilities require proof of Bordetella vaccination for dogs who will be visiting. However, because there are many strains of Bordetella, and because no vaccine protects every patient, some immunized dogs contract tracheobronchitis despite being vaccinated. Veterinary recommendations range from vaccinating every four months to not at all.

“There are two kinds of Bordetella vaccine,” says Stacey Hershman, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Hastings-on-Hudson, New York. “The intranasal vaccine is highly effective and very safe since it is not systemic but goes down the nose into the throat. I do not recommend the injectable vaccine since it can cause negative side effects like lethargy, fever, vomiting, or diarrhea.

“I never vaccinate animals more than once a year for kennel cough, and then only if they are going to a boarding kennel. Kennel cough is not fatal in adult dogs, who usually board, therefore it would be over-vaccinating in my opinion to do it more than once a year. Healthy, strong immune systems are resistant and do not catch it, which is another reason not to vaccinate unless the dog is going to a kennel that requires it.”

No matter what your dog’s vaccination status, a few natural preventives can’t hurt, especially whenever your dog is exposed to dogs with active or recent infections.

For advice on preventing kennel cough as well as natural and effective ways to soothe the symptoms, purchase Kennel Cough from Whole Dog Journal.

Kennel Cough and Colds

By
Editorial Staff
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Kennel Cough eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Kennel Cough by Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD

The two most common afflictions of the respiratory system are the “common cold” and kennel cough. Both of these ailments are usually instigated by any of a number of viruses, often followed by secondary bacterial invasion. The severity of the symptoms varies widely, but in most “colds” they are mild and include wheezing, coughing, reluctance to move, and perhaps a mild fever.

Kennel cough (a.k.a. infectious tracheobronchitis), on the other hand, can produce symptoms that appear extreme, with a dry, hacking cough accompanied by frequent, intense gagging. I’ve had caretakers rush their kennel-coughing dog in to see me, thinking he has a bone caught in his throat. Despite its appearance, a typical case of kennel cough is not life-threatening, and it tends to run its course in a few days to a week or so. But it is a disease that is frustrating for pet and caretaker alike.

Kennel cough results from inflammation of the upper airways. The instigating pathogen may be any number of irritants, viruses, or other microorganisms, or the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica may act as a primary pathogen. The prominent clinical sign is paroxysms of a harsh, dry cough, which may be followed by retching and gagging. The cough is easily induced by gentle pressure applied to the larynx or trachea.

Kennel cough should be expected whenever the characteristic cough suddenly develops 5 to 10 days after exposure to other dogs – especially to dogs from a kennel (especially a shelter) environment. Usually the symptoms diminish during the first five days, but the disease may persist for up to 10-20 days. Kennel cough is almost always more annoying (to dog and her caretaker) than it is a serious event.

For advice on preventing kennel cough as well as natural and effective ways to soothe the symptoms, purchase Kennel Cough from Whole Dog Journal.

The Mechanics of Brushing

By
Editorial Staff
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Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy by Dr. Randy Kidd, Lisa Rodier, CNWI, Nancy Kerns, and Lorie Long

Start by figuring out what position will be most comfortable for both you and your dog. For Angela Mees, DVM, of the Atlanta Veterinary Dental Services and her Greyhound, that’s standing. This lets Dr. Mees reach around from behind the dog, and works well for them. Smaller dogs might be happy to sit in your lap. For Atle, I’ve found that having him lie on his side works best.

Where to start? Dr. Mees advises that one approach is to divide the dog’s mouth into four quadrants, tackling one at a time. She begins with her dog’s front teeth because they’re easiest to reach. Wherever you choose to begin, start with a wet brush, and gently work each area as follows, with pressure light enough that the bristles barely bend:

  • To brush the front teeth, gently pull back the dog’s lips.
  • For the upper back teeth, put the brush in the dog’s cheek, and, gently holding her muzzle, close her mouth and brush. Closing the mouth controls the dog’s tongue, reducing any struggle with brushing.
  • For the lower back teeth, release your hold on the muzzle a bit, slightly open the dog’s mouth, and brush the bottom back teeth.

Dr. Mees admits that getting the insides of the teeth is difficult, so don’t get discouraged if you can’t (the dog’s tongue tends to keep the inner sides of the teeth clean). And don’t be concerned about brushing your dog’s tongue and roof of her mouth.

You may be asking: What direction should you brush? According to Dr. Mees, “We’re taught circular motions, but I think if you try circular motions in a moving animal, you’re going to get frustrated! So I usually recommend side to side.” In a perfect world, you’ll gradually work up to brushing each quadrant for about 30 seconds. Nonetheless, Dr. Mees acknowledges that you might not achieve that. She gets about five to ten seconds per quadrant on her own dog, so she brushes once quickly, then tries to repeat one or two more times.

Any amount of brushing is better than none; you will see better results in your dog’s oral health, even with a dog who won’t tolerate a total of more than 20 to 40 seconds, than if you never brushed. Do as much as he will handle to start, then gradually see if you can do a little more. I’m at day five with Atle, and I’ve been able to begin brushing his back upper and lower teeth. We’re still just talking a matter of seconds, and he’s not entirely thrilled, but that’s OK. I’m not in a hurry, and he’s getting lots of treats and praise for what he gives me.

After brushing, thoroughly rinse the brush and let it air dry. It’s a good idea to replace your dog’s toothbrush every three to six months, and use a separate toothbrush for each of your dogs to prevent the spread of germs.

For more information on brushing your dog’s teeth, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy.

When the Mouth Smells

By
Editorial Staff
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Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy by Dr. Randy Kidd, Lisa Rodier, CNWI, Nancy Kerns, and Lorie Long

We often consider dental disease — the buildup of plaque and calculus on the teeth and inflammation of the gums (gingivitis) – as the main cause of bad breath in a dog. While the seriousness of dental disease shouldn’t be minimized, there are lots of other reasons why your dog’s mouth might smell off. Other causes of unpleasant odors include:

  • The tongue;
  • Metabolic disease, such as diabetes and renal disease;
  • GI issues from excessive licking or swallowing, creating excess gas in the GI tract;
  • GI upset caused by megaesophagus, food allergy, bacterial overgrowth, neoplasia (cancer of the mouth or intestines), or a foreign body (bones, rocks, toys, socks);
  • Dietary (fish-based diets, oral fatty acids, coprophagia, the consumption of other fetid foodstuffs);
  • Maldigestion;
  • Respiratory disease (rhinitis, sinusitis, neoplasia);
  • Autoimmune disease;
  • Non-periodontal oral disease (orthodontic, pharyngitis, tonsillitis, neoplasia);
  • Oral cancer;
  • Trauma (oral foreign bodies, damaged palate from stick chewing, electric cord injury, caustic agents).

Understanding the origin of the smell is your first assignment and may require the expertise of your veterinarian, or veterinary specialist, to pinpoint. T-cell lymphoma, for example, is a rare but deadly disease that can present on the face. It mimics many other conditions and can be difficult to diagnose without a specialist’s intervention.

For more information on foul mouth odors, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy.

Oral Hygiene at Home

By
Editorial Staff
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Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy by Dr. Randy Kidd, Lisa Rodier, CNWI, Nancy Kerns, and Lorie Long

Both Dr. Banker and Dr. Reiter agree that regular tooth brushing with a toothpaste made for dogs is the single most important step an owner can take to prevent canine oral health problems. They recommend brushing twice a day if possible, or at least once a day. “Daily brushing encourages owners to look in their dog’s mouth regularly and notice changes and problems,” adds Dr. Banker. Dr. Reiter emphasizes the importance of a high quality diet. He suggested that owners discuss the usefulness of products such as dental rinses, gels, and sealants with their canine dentist. Of course, a regular oral health evaluation by a knowledgeable canine dental specialist ranks high on his list of preventative measures.

Both doctors discourage owners from hand-scaling plaque from their dog’s teeth at home. Dr. Reiter explains that scaling at home can place tiny scratches on the surface of the tooth, thereby making it more prone to retain plaque build-up in the future. Canine dental specialists polish a dog’s teeth after scaling to restore a smooth tooth surface.

Also, during scaling at home, a dog may jerk away or turn his head unexpectedly, causing the scaling instrument to lacerate the dog’s gum. An owner could dislodge a chunk of plaque that the dog could aspirate into his lungs. An owner who is unskilled in scaling a dog’s teeth could cause the dog to become nervous about people looking and working in his mouth.

“Home scaling does not reach sub-gingival (below the gum line) material or into any pockets around the dog’s teeth,” says Dr. Reiter. “And don’t be tempted to bring your dog to a groomer or other person who advertises anesthesia-free dental cleanings. There’s a lot of water spraying around during a dental cleaning. Canine dental professionals use a cuffed endotracheal tube to administer anesthesia during the procedure. The tube has an inflatable collar that protects against the accidental aspiration of water and debris into the dog’s lungs. Only an ‘asleep’ procedure insures sufficient cleaning of the teeth above and below the gum line in an environment that’s safe for the dog.”

For more on exercising proper dental hygiene and keeping your dog’s teeth healthy, purchase Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy by Whole Dog Journal.

Fitness Together

By
Editorial Staff
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How to Walk Your Dog eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from How to Walk Your Dog by Pat Miller, CPDT and Mardi Richmond, MA, CPDT-KA

Walking is one of the best forms of exercise there is, but for workout walks to be a fitness building experience, you will need to do more than just a regular walk at your regular pace. As with any workout, aiming for a variety of aerobic activity, some strength building, and some flexibility exercises will give you a well-rounded fitness routine.

Keep in mind that most health experts recommend that we exercise at a moderate intensity. What does that mean? For the human half of the team, a good rule of thumb is that if you can talk while you walk, you are moving at about the right pace. However, each of us is an individual, so you may want to talk with your health care provider or fitness trainer to develop your personal goals.

There are several strategies for turning a basic dog walk into a fitness-building workout. A great idea is to vary your approach and try for one or more of the below suggestions on different days of the week.

(1) Step up the pace. Perhaps this is obvious – but it is also one of the best strategies for building fitness. When you head out for a walk, warm up for the first 5 to 10 minutes, and then challenge yourself to move at a quicker pace than you normally would.

(2) Go long. Increasing distance is another great strategy. Make some days your long walk days, and increase your normal distance or time.

(3) Try intervals. Interval training is when you take small chunks of time – say 30 seconds to several minutes – and work out at a higher intensity, followed by a rest cycle. So, for example, on a walk, you could walk fast or even jog for one block getting your heart rate up, and the next two blocks walk at a normal speed to let your heart rate recover (go back to normal).

(4) Climb to new heights. Walking hills (assuming your knees and back can handle it!) are a great way to add difficulty to your workout and also some strength training for your legs.
While out on your walk, at a park or other quiet location, give your dog a sniff break or ask for a stay while you do some calisthenics, stretching or strength building exercises. Try squats, lunges, calf-raises. Add in some vertical pushups off of a building or pole and some leg-lifts and tricep dips on a park bench for a full body workout.

These are tips that will get both you and your dog moving in a fitness direction, but it may not sound like much fun for your canine pal. In order to make it a positive experience for you both, add in some fun time. For more tips on turning your dog into a more pleasant walking companion, check out Whole Dog Journal’s How to Walk Your Dog ebook.

How To Walk the Excited Dog

By
Editorial Staff
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How to Walk Your Dog eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from How to Walk Your Dog by Pat Miller, CPDT and Mardi Richmond, MA, CPDT-KA

You contemplate taking your dog for a walk with mixed emotions. You love the idea of going for a stroll through the neighborhood together, but it’s a major hassle to get out the door. When you pick up his leash he becomes the Tasmanian Devil – body slamming you, racing around the foyer, and bouncing off the glass door with such intensity you’re afraid he’ll crash right through it. Here are five suggestions for creating the enjoyable outing you dream of.

(1) Exercise first. Spend 15-20 minutes tossing a ball for your dog in the backyard, or providing intense mental exercise with a heavy duty shaping session. You’ll take the edge off his excitement, reduce his energy level, and make leashing-up and walking more relaxed and enjoyable for both of you.

(2) Teach him to “Say please.” Reinforce your dog’s “sit” behavior so thoroughly that “sit” becomes his default behavior – the behavior he chooses to offer when he doesn’t know what else to do. Then wait for him to sit (say “please”) to make all good things happen: sit for his dinner bowl; sit to be petted; sit for you to throw his ball; sit to have his leash put on; and sit to make the door open.

(3) Pick up his leash throughout the day. He gets amped up when you touch his leash because it always means the two of you are going for a walk. Of course he gets excited! If you pick up his leash numerous times throughout the day, sometimes
draping it over your neck and wearing it for a while, sometimes carrying it from room to room, sometimes picking it up and putting it back down, sometimes clipping it on his collar and then unclipping it, the leash will no longer be a reliable predictor of walks, and he won’t have any reason to get all excited about it. Note: This will take a while. Hope springs eternal in the canine heart.

(4) Use negative punishment. No, we don’t mean a bonk on the head. It means setting up the situation so that doing the behavior you don’t want causes a good thing to go away. Here’s how it would work in this case: If, when you pick up the leash, he goes bonkers (the behavior you don’t want), say “Oops!” in a cheerful tone of voice (what’s known as a “no reward marker,” it simply tells him no reward is forthcoming), set the leash down, and walk away. When he settles down, pick the leash up again. If he sits (say please!), proceed with attaching the leash and going for a walk. If he winds up again, do another “Oops!” and set the leash down. You’re teaching him that getting excited makes the opportunity for a walk go away; staying calm makes walks happen.

(5) Reduce the significance of other “walk cues.” Other things you do as part of your walk preparation routine can also feed his energy – getting out treats, putting on your jacket, grabbing your cell phone and keys . . . The more you randomize your ritual, the less these steps contribute to his growing excitement over the pending event, and the calmer he’ll stay as you leash him and walk out the door. For example, put your keys and cell phone in your jacket pocket before you eat breakfast. Happy walking!

For more information on how to reform a puller into a more pleasant walking companion purchase Whole Dog Journal’s How to Walk Your Dog ebook.

Eliminate Fleas Without Poisons

By
Editorial Staff
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Keeping Your Dog Flea Free eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Keeping Your Dog Flea Free by Nancy Kerns, Gregory L. Tilford, Kathleen Dudley, and Eileen Fatcheric, DVM

Start With the Dog

In order to control a flea infestation with IPM techniques, it is necessary to treat not only your dog, but also the indoor and outdoor environments surrounding your dog. In discussing all of these, we’ll start at the center: The dog.

  • Improve the dog’s health. “The most important measure you can take for flea control is similar to that with any illness, and that is to strengthen the overall health of the animal,” states Don Hamilton, DVM, author of Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs: Small Doses for Small Animals. “In general, given the same environment, healthier animals suffer less from fleas. It all comes back to good food, lots of love, and minimal stress.” Dr. Hamilton prescribes a human grade food, preferably a raw meat diet for dogs, along with supplements, a clean indoor air environment, and no vaccinations. Carolann Mancuso, one of Dr. Hamilton’s clients living near Tampa, Florida, has used this protocol for keeping her dog family healthy and flea-free for over a decade. A healthy dog is less likely to be the target for fleas. Fleas seem to know which dogs are ill in a household. If you are not already feeding a raw meat, homemade diet or human-grade food, this is the time to shift gears. A healthy immune system will make your dog less tasty to a flea. Consult a holistic veterinarian to help boost the health of your dog’s immune system. Some complementary therapies that are useful include acupuncture, Chinese herbs, homeopathy, and nutritional therapy.
  • Use supplements. There are numerous dietary additives reputed to be helpful in repelling fleas. Unfortunately, their effectiveness varies from dog to dog. Some people have found the following remedies to be effective for their dogs. If, after giving your dog any of these supplements for a month, you see no improvement in the flea population, consult your holistic veterinarian for further direction. Garlic: One clove per day of crushed organic garlic for a large dog, half for a medium-sized dog, and a quarter for a small dog. Or, use a capsule of cold-pressed garlic oil; adjust the canine dosage from the human dosage on the label (assuming a 150 pound human dose). Vitamin B complex (with vitamin B1): Use a plant-source vitamin B complex, and again, adjust the dose for your dog’s weight. Some people simply add brewers yeast to the dog’s diet for its vitamin B1. Note: Some dogs are allergic to brewers yeast.
  • Some people have success with natural topical preparations. Again, the results vary widely. What works well for some dogs may not work at all for others. Desist if these suggestions do not work within three to four weeks. Essential oils of cedar, tea tree, citronella, lavender, eucalyptus, and pennyroyal (the last two are toxic to cats): Mix 10 drops of certified organic essential oil to one tablespoon of olive oil. Spray on your dog as a repellent. A lemon rinse: Steep a cut-up lemon or two in a quart of boiling water and allow to cool. Use liquid as a rinse or sponge onto the coat. Remember that topical preparations – whether safe, natural remedies or poisonous chemicals – target only 1 percent of the flea population, the adults. While repelling adult fleas will help a flea-allergic dog, it should never be your only focus.
  • Combing the dog daily with a flea comb will help you determine the effectiveness of your efforts. Comb around the dog’s tail, stomach, and face, where they tend to collect in greater quantities. Look for fleas, as well as flea eggs (tiny white specks) and flea feces (slightly larger black specks). Drop anything you find into a glass of water; it will drown the eggs and fleas. Flea feces is comprised largely of your dog’s blood, and will turn the water reddish brown, confirming the presence of fleas even if no adults are found.
  • During the height of infestation, bathe your dog weekly with a noninsecticidal soap; reduce this frequency as the flea problem diminishes, because over-frequent bathing can dry out the skin. Rinsing the dog completely to remove all soap will help prevent drying the dog’s skin, as will increasing the essential fatty acids in the dog’s diet. For dogs who are being bathed frequently, using a nonscented hypoallergenic shampoo, such as Logona Free Shampoo and Shower Gel, will be less irritating to their skin.
  • Keep your dog confined to areas of the house that are easy to manage when a flea problem exists (close off basements or extra bedrooms).

For more information and advice on safe and effective ways to prevent and treat fleas and flea bites, purchase and download the ebook, Keeping Your Dog Flea Free from Whole Dog Journal.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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