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An Interview with Donna Duford on Kids and Dogs

Like peanut butter and jelly…like macaroni and cheese…like Lassie and Timmy, dogs and kids just naturally seem to go together. Still, for every heartwarming story we hear where a loyal Shep pushes his toddler out of the path of a speeding car, it seems we read about an equally bone-chilling tragedy where Cujo mauls a child.

Dog bites are responsible for a minuscule number of fatalities per year an average of 19 per year over the last 20 years, not all of them children compared to thousands of children’s deaths from auto accidents, house fires, and domestic abuse. According to the Centers For Disease Control in Atlanta, Georgia, however, non-fatal dog bites are the number one health problem for children in this country, outpacing measles, mumps, and whooping cough combined.

It is an unusual child who does not, at some point in his childhood, want a puppy more than anything else in the whole wide world, and it is an unusual parent who does not, at some point, succumb to those wishes. It’s also unusual for a child to reach the 12th grade without having been bitten by a dog on at least one occasion. Since, thank goodness, kids will have and love dogs, it is critically important for parents and the dogs juvenile caretakers as well to do all the right things to make sure they end up with a Shep rather than a Cujo.

Donna Duford is an internationally-known positive dog trainer and behavior consultant. Her dog training business, Companion Dog Training, is based in North Brookfield, Massachusetts, where she frequently sees clients with kids and dogs. Duford has a special interest in child/dog relationships, and has presented information on the subject to other dog trainers at the annual conference of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT), a professional organization that promotes dog-friendly training and ongoing trainer education.

Duford says there are so many wonderful things that happen in positive dog/kid relationships, that it’s hard to know where to begin! Children who have good relationships with dogs often learn about responsibility and develop great empathy for a species different from their own, she says. I have seen many children gain self-esteem from caring for and/or training their dogs.

On the other hand, Duford recognizes that there are myriad ways that the child/dog relationship can turn sour. She has seen dogs with every conceivable negative reaction to children, and has been consulted by countless families to solve problems between dogs and kids in a household. WDJ caught up with Duford at November 2000 APDT meeting in Houston, where we discussed ways to train dogs and kids to build the strongest and safest relationship possible.

WDJ: What are some of the problems you see occuring between kids and dogs?

Duford: The negative aspects of the dog/child paradigm that I see most frequently are children teasing dogs, and dogs chasing, mouthing, and sometimes mounting children. The good news is that these problems are quite treatable if the family is motivated to work on them.

The worst thing I see in child/dog relationships is antagonism, deliberate or not, that results in aggression. When the family dog bites a child it is a traumatic event. It is scary, there may be injuries, and it causes great emotional upheaval for the family, not to mention financial liability.

WDJ: Clearly, the largest part of the responsibility to create good dog/kid relationships falls on human shoulders. What are the most important things that you teach parents to do to dog-proof their kids?

Duford: Dog-proofing falls into three categories: dogs in general, the family dog, and strange dogs.

To be dog-proofed, kids need to have respect for dogs, and they need to understand strict rules about dog safety. Parents should teach their children empathy and respectful behavior to all dogs.

Parents also need to teach dog safety much the way they teach fire safety with a clear, strong message. Children need to know that they must not bother dogs when they’re eating, chewing on a bone, or playing with other dogs. They must never approach or run from an unknown dog. They should be taught to ask owners of unknown dogs if they may pet the dog, and they need to be taught the correct way to pet.

Also, all children need to know that all dogs can bite. Dog bites are serious and the topic should not be sugarcoated.

With respect to the family dog, very young children under five years of age should not be encouraged to hug or kiss the dog. Even if the family dog tolerates or likes it, children of this age are impulsive and not old enough to understand one set of rules for one dog and different rules for others. If a young child routinely hugs and kisses her dog, she will be more likely to try it with strange dogs, which could have devastating results. Older children can be taught, if it is appropriate, that there are different rules for the family dog and other dogs.

WDJ: Let’s turn it around. What can dog owners do to kid-proof their dogs?

Duford: Socialization to children is paramount. Building a positive association with children by exposing the dog to friendly, polite children is a great start. Playing the dog’s favorite game or giving her special food treats when children are around is even better.

Another child-proofing measure I teach all my clients is to help the dog to have positive associations with all kinds of handling. We do this by pairing various types of touching with something the dog loves, like a special food-treat or toy. This should be done systematically, starting with very gentle handling and working up to rough, toddler-like handling such as tail-pulling, hair grabbing, and poking. The handling should not actually hurt the dog, and is best done under the supervision of a qualified dog trainer.

WDJ: Are some breeds of dogs better choices for kids dogs?

Duford: This is a tough one I hesitate to classify dogs by breed. There certainly are tendencies, within breeds, but each dog is an individual and I would hate to deprive a dog or a kid of a great companion based on a generalization. Instead, I would look at temperament qualities.

Good qualities for family dogs are high sociability and responsiveness, and low to moderate energy and excitability. This is somewhat dependent on the age and number of children and the family lifestyle, of course, but you stack the deck in your favor by choosing a dog who likes people, one who actively seeks them out. A social dog chooses to be with people when given the chance. This is different from a dog who likes people but doesn’t actively engage with them.

Dogs who are responsive take direction easily and are easy to train. Energy level and excitability are especially important considerations for families with small children. Dogs who are easily aroused and have a high energy level are likely to get overstimulated by children running, playing, and squealing.

If there is one breed category I would steer clear of with young children it would be toy dogs. Bigger dogs are sturdier and will fare better when accidentally stepped on or tripped over.

Also, with young families, I usually suggest adopting an adult dog. Most families with young children do not need the extra work required to raise a puppy or adolescent dog. It is also often easier to evaluate the temperament of an adult dog and its suitability to living with children.

WDJ: What are some of the worst things a parent can do in a dog/kid relationship?

Duford: Lack of supervision is a big problem. Dogs and kids should not be left unsupervised. Even the best-behaved children and dogs slip up. Accidents happen. Forcing dogs to interact with kids is also a big no-no. If the dog doesn’t want to be with kids, she is sending a clear message.

Pushing kids to take too much responsibility for the dog is also something I discourage. Unless we are talking about a teenager, dogs should always be the total responsibility of the adults in the household. Children do not have the maturity or self-discipline to care for another being, and parents need to understand that the kids should, at best, play a supporting role in dog care and training.

WDJ: Once a dog has bitten a child, can he ever be trusted with children again?

Duford: This is a loaded question. It depends on the severity of the bite and the circumstances surrounding the incident. Some dogs are fine with the family children but not with strange children. Some dogs are wonderful with children of a certain age and not with others.

Occasionally, the dog will be fine in all situations except the one in which the bite occurred. For instance, a dog may be wonderful with the kids except when they approach the dog’s food dish. Regardless, if the dog has bitten, or even growled at a child, everyone should sit up and take notice. This is not a fluke. The dog is communicating something and there is every reason to expect that if she finds herself in the same situation she will bite again.

Also With This Article
Click here to view more on “Kids and Dogs”

Long Distance Information

For many dog-owner teams, the transition from leash-training to long-distance work can be a frustrating challenge. Some dogs frequently disregard our cues when they cross an indiscernible (to us) threshold. But he knows what come means! Z client wails, and points as proof to the fact the Ranger comes impeccably, every time, when called in the training center, the house, or the back yard.

The fact is that Ranger does know what come means in the training center, in the house, and in the back yard. He also knows that when he’s hiking in the woods with his human guardian, chasing squirrels and rabbits is far more entertaining and rewarding than coming back when he is called, especially since Come! Often means the hike is over, the leash is going on the collar, and we’re returning to the car.

How do you manage to make the transition from come reliably when called within a safe, controlled area to come reliably when called regardless of where we are or what other exciting things are happening?

Enter the long line: a behavior management tool that you can use very effectively to prevent Ranger from being rewarded by dashing off. The fact that he can’t leave also gives you the opportunity to convince him that coming to you is irresistibly rewarding regardless of the circumstances.

Long lines come in many forms, from retractable leashes to light nylon lines, nylon check cords, or cotton training leashes, and range in length.

The purpose of the long line is simply to restrain Ranger so he can’t get his adrenaline fix by tearing after Bambi in the woods it’s then up to you to make yourself interesting and exciting enough to get him to return to you. The long line is not for yanking or pulling a dog back to you  that will only serve to confirm his opinion that playing in the woods is more fun than hanging out with you!

The following are some tips on the right way to use a long line as a training tool.

• Train a solid come response in controlled circumstances (for more information, see Total Recall, WDJ December 2000). Practice both with a long line in controlled circumstances as well as doing off-leash recalls, so the long line doesn’t always predict an adrenaline-generating adventure to the wilds of the woods.

• Use enclosed areas of different sizes to practice with Ranger on and off of the long line. If you practice only in your own back yard, and your own back yard is 30 x 50, Ranger is learning to come only from a maximum distance of 50 feet. Find a friend with a securely fenced pasture of an acre or more or go to a fenced community dog park during low-usage times when Ranger won’t be distracted by other dogs. You have to be able to do this off-line work without worrying that your dog will disappear into the National Forest for days at a time.

Note: If you plan to drop your long line and let the dog run with it attached to his collar, be sure you are not training anywhere where he might run off into the woods and get inextricably tangled around trees and brush.

• Whenever you arrive at a new location, do 5-10 minutes of recall practice (coming when called) on the long line, interspersed with other good manners training practice, before removing your dog’s leash. Then do a few minutes of focused off-leash training. This will teach him that training happens even in exciting places that a trip to his favorite park does not mean total lack of control, and that removing the leash is not an invitation to charge off into the brush.

• When you first let Ranger off the leash, do some short recalls and make them very rewarding use his absolute favorite treat that he gets only when he comes when called, or a quick game of fetch with a toy or ball that he obsesses over.

• As you hike around the large enclosed area with Ranger, look for opportunities to call him when he very likely to come that is, when he is looking a bit bored, not when he is fixated on a squirrel up a tree or totally preoccupied with digging a hole. When he comes, make wonderful things happen, then let him go play again. This teaches him that “come” means wonderful yummy fun-stuff break and then go play, rather than funs over, time to go home!”

• Several times during the outing, put the long line back on Ranger’s collar, hold onto the end, and walk with him no more than 10 feet away from you on the line (this works in open pasture it does not work well in heavy woods and brush). When you (and he) spot a squirrel or a rabbit, call the dog to you. If he doesn’t come, don’t get angry and don’t drag him back to you with the long line, just wait until he realizes he can’t get to the squirrel, and is willing to return to you. When he does, tell him what a wonderful dog he is, have him sit, feed him a treat if he’s interested, then release the line, and say, “Go Chase.”” Run toward the squirrel with him to encourage him, if he needs it.

This exercises teaches your dog the Premack Principle, which says that in order to get something really wonderful, he has to do something less wonderful first. In this case, the road to squirrel is through come to my person. As he gets better and better at responding, let him range farther and farther out on the long line until he will Premack back to you from 50 or more in order to earn his squirrel chase. (By the way, this also gives the squirrel a significant head start to the nearest tree and ensures that Ranger won’t commit squirrelicide on his outings with you.)

Every once in a while, don’t release him to go chase you need to put the Go Chase on a variable schedule so he doesn’t think he gets to chase every time. Sometimes, like when it’s the neighbor’s cat, or the squirrel is across the street, a chase reward won’t be appropriate.

• When Ranger will return to you reliably from the distant reaches of the long line even in the face of thundering squirrels and rabbits, you are ready to try Premack off-leash. To increase your likelihood of success, do your first off-leash test when Ranger is near you. When the opportune moment arises say, when Ranger sees a squirrel at a distance call him to you, reward him with a treat if you like, have him sit, and then tell him to Go Chase! If he takes off after the squirrel anyway, don’t keep calling. Wait until he tires of the squirrel, then call him back to you in a pleasant tone, and go back to practicing on the long line. Do not punish him!

The temptation doesn’t have to be small speeding animals. It can be other dogs playing, an invitingly cool pond on a hot day, or an appetizing pile of horse manure. The reliable recall, trained with the help of a long line, can serve you well in an endless variety of challenging circumstances. You could be the dog owner who can proudly say, Ranger knows what come means everywhere, and every time!”

-By Pat Miller

 

Family Squabble

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For me, one of the best things about working for Belvoir Publications (WDJ’s publisher) is that the company has a long history of and a dedication to consumer-oriented, advocacy journalism. In other words, because Belvoir magazines accept no advertising, Belvoir editors are free to examine and truthfully critique products without fear of losing income from offended advertisers. We are allowed to take informed but subjective editorial positions (and defend them!) on any subject that is of concern to our readers.

This is a liberating position for me and my fellow editors; in most publication offices, writers and editors are constantly warned to remain carefully “objective” in print, no matter what our real opinions are. Understand, kowtowing to advertisers is taught to journalists early. I’ll never forget my first editorial meeting at the huge national parents’ magazine where I interned while I was getting my Bachelor’s degree in journalism many moons ago. An argument broke out between the editorial staff (on one side) and the publisher and ad saleswomen (on the other) regarding an article titled, “Family Flapjacks.” The author of the article had written that if you can afford to splurge for real maple syrup to pour over the pancakes on special occasion breakfasts, you should do it. The ad staff, who had sold full color, full page advertising to an (artificially maple-flavored) syrup company, wanted those lines stricken from the story. The power of advertising dollars is formidable and insidious.

Fortunately, I don’t have to deal with any of that anymore. It’s wonderful. Not only do I get to take a stand on issues in the dog world, I am encouraged and supported by my publishers to do so.

Usually, this is appreciated by our readers. Most people who subscribe to one of the 28 Belvoir Publications’ magazines because they value our (hopefully) informed and (absolutely) independent opinions.

Of course, not everyone who reads our opinions agrees with them!

WDJ has a dual focus – holistic health care and non-violent training. We find that these things work well together, and many of our readers agree. But some people admit that they subscribe specifically for information about one of those areas, and disagree with our positions in the other area. They embrace holistic care, but they think clicker training is for the birds. Or they love our gentle training tips, but prefer to leave raw diets and such to the wolves. (Of course, if they don’t appreciate either focus, they subscribe to something else!) Generally, these folks can just flip past the material they don’t like to something that they do.

Once in a long while, though, one of our strong positions on some subject aggravates someone who usually really likes us – so much so that they can no longer appreciate us at all. And guess what? We did that recently.

In the particular case I’m talking about, the person we annoyed was someone we like and respect, someone who has contributed valuable information to this very publication. We feel we owe this person an opportunity to publicly disagree with us. We know she is not alone; we’re sure there are other readers who agree with her. So we’re going to air the arguments on both sides of the issue – just a little – and let you make up your own minds. Check out “A Buzz About E-Collars” on page 20. I don’t think we’ll ever sell our viewpoints on the subject to our esteemed (former?) associate, and goodness knows we’re not convinced of the superiority of her views. But that’s okay. The important thing is to stay respectful, kind, patient, and open-minded – that’s our New Year’s resolution.

-Nancy Kerns

Stressing On Fresh

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Somehow, I ended up with a pet hermit crab. Do I have a “Home for Wayward Pets” sign on my back? A neighbor’s child brought it home from a carnival she attended with friends; she won it in a contest. For various reasons the neighbors didn’t want it, and didn’t know what to do with it. Okay, we’ll take it. What kind of habitat does a hermit crab need? What do hermit crabs eat?

My son and I hit the Internet. We learned that hermit crabs need to be kept warm and moist, they need some spare shells to grow into, and most importantly, they need tiny amounts of a whole variety of FRESH foods daily: meat, fish, poultry, fruit, vegetables, grains, etc. When I say tiny, I mean infinitesimal; I have never noticed anything missing from the food we dutifully place before the crab each day. He must be eating something, because he’s still scuttling around, months after he arrived.

But he’s definitely more high-maintenance than some of our other animals. Our finches and our fish thrive on dried foods; the crab needs fresh. You’d think it would be easy to come up with a quarter-teaspoon of something fresh, raw, and whole every day, but it’s not! On some days, I can honestly say I don’t have anything in the kitchen that could nourish a growing crab! I mean, you can feed a kid macaroni and cheese or pizza for dinner every once in a while with few ill effects, but I really wouldn’t expect a crab to thrive on such artificial, processed fare.

Then, on one of our frequent trips to the pet supply store, we spotted a row of jars labeled “Hermit Crab Food: A Vitamin-Enriched Food for all Land-Type Hermit Crabs.”

I’m fully aware that no commercially prepared food pellets could be as good for a crab as fresh, real food. But I sure am glad to have something to give him on the days when the groceries run out – just like I have a top-quality dry dog food to feed my dog, Rupe, on the days when I just can’t seem to get it together to buy and/or prepare a fresh, nutritious dinner.

People have asked me why WDJ takes so much space to discuss commercial dog food when it’s so obvious that we are aware “fresh is best” – we have published dozens of articles about homemade diets, and will publish many more. However, for many of us, feeding dry or canned food is a less-than-perfectly-healthy diet necessitated by our modern go-go-go lifestyles. We may not be able to feed our animal (or human!) families the healthiest food every day. But we would like to, at the very least, feed the healthiest commercial diet in the world, whether our animal companions weigh 10 pounds, 110 pounds, or just 10 grams.

With that in mind, we hope you appreciate our “2001 Top Dry Dog Foods” review. We’ll try to steer you to the very best food in bags.

-Nancy Kerns

Whole Dog Journal’s 2001 Dry Dog Food Review

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Here at WDJ, we talk about dog food all the time, in every single issue. And why not? We feed our dogs every day. Many dogs eat the same food every day of their entire lives (though this is not something we recommend, as we’ll discuss later). Though many veterinarians are just beginning to figure this out, the food that a dog eats has a profound effect on his health. We can quite happily spend an entire day discussing pet food ingredients, say, or regulation of the industry.

So, why on earth does it make us crazy when people call or write to us with the simple and innocent question, “What’s the best food for my dog?” Maybe you had better sit down. This might take a while to explain.

There is no best food for every dog and dog owner
First, you have to understand that every dog is an individual, just like us! While there may be similarities between dogs of similar age, breed, or condition, each individual dog has a unique physiology and metabolism. If your Dalmatian is prone to urinary tract infections, he would probably be better off with a food that has a lower pH. Say you have a Golden Retriever from a family loaded with victims of cancer; you may want to consider fighting his genetic predisposition to developing the disease with an organic food, ideally one with a higher percentage of a quality fat source loaded with Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids.

Every dog’s personal preferences and sensitivities are unique, too. We’ve heard of dogs that won’t touch food that contains beef, and dogs who turn up their noses at the smell of fish oil. We’re intimately familiar with dogs who vomit and suffer from diarrhea if they eat corn, and dogs who can’t stop itching for a month after consuming a meal that contained chicken.

What about the dog’s age, weight, and activity level? Is she a fast young Greyhound whose skinny frame carries no fat whatsoever? She’ll probably need a higher-fat, higher-protein food to keep from disappearing altogether. An older couch potato Cocker Spaniel who never goes out for walks? A low-fat, high fiber food is indicated.

And what about the dog food buyer? Is our nightmare caller on a terribly tight budget? Or is money no object when it comes to his dog? We have taken calls from people who order food on the Internet and have it shipped across the country, and talked with people who say they simply refuse to shop anywhere except Safeway for their dog’s food. We’ve also heard from people who called to say that they have 10 big dogs, and can’t possibly afford high-quality food for all of them; what can you possibly say to someone like that?

So, as you can see, we have our reasons for refusing to tell you what the best dog food is.

But this drives our callers crazy. They just want to know what to feed their dogs! Why can’t we tell them that? So, next, in an effort to trick us into telling them what they want to know, they’ll often ask us, “Well, what do you feed your dog?”

Our selection criteria
By now, you have probably realized that we’re just not going to tell you which food to buy for your dog. Sorry! But we will tell you how you can evaluate a food for quality, and tell you what we look for and look out for in a food. We’ll also give you the names of some foods that we thoroughly approve of, and tell you why we like them. But only you and your dog can determine which is best for you both.

First, however, we have to explain a few things about our selection criteria.

We DON’T conduct lab tests to make sure the Guaranteed Analysis printed on the label accurately reflects the contents; that’s the job of state feed control officials, and way beyond the scope of our resources.

We DON’T inspect manufacturing plants or investigate the manufacturers’ Boards of Directors. It would be interesting and even enjoyable for us to do so, but come on! The costs associated with such a project would be prohibitive, to put it mildly.

 We DON’T select foods on the basis of protein or fat content; more is not always better. Many people labor under the misconception that the more protein a food has, the better it is for their dog, so they seek out the highest protein foods on the market. And some manufacturers try to equate high protein with high quality. But some dogs should not eat the highest protein foods. Giant breed puppies, for example, can suffer complications of too-rapid growth on overly high protein diets. Talk to your veterinarian about an appropriate amount of protein and fat in your dog’s diet.

We base our selections on a review of the ingredients and Guaranteed Analysis on the food label. We have acknowledged in previous articles that few states actually test the foods made and/or sold within their borders for labeling violations and inaccuracies.” We have also previously informed you that food makers have up to six months to change their labels after changing the ingredients and/or the formulation of a food.

Despite these unfortunate facts, we stand by our decision to make food selections based on the ingredients and Guaranteed Analysis printed on the food labels. After all, the label is all that the average consumer has to go on. And we definitely want to teach you how to analyze a label by yourself; it’s not rocket science.”

Also, a quick scan of the ingredients list can tell you a lot about the intentions and philosophy of the company who makes the food. If a maker admits to using artificial preservatives, say, or lots of grain fragments or animal by-products, you can be reasonably sure you’re not dealing with a top-of-the-line product. Conversely, if the ingredients list is headed with a quality protein source, and packed with whole, healthy foods, you know you’re in the ballpark.

We don’t examine every food on the market. There are thousands of foods on the market, some nationally distributed, some that are sold only in a single state, and some that are sold very locally. We can’t look at every one.

However, we make every effort to track down products made by companies that make (or claim they make) premium or natural foods. Frequently there is nothing premium or natural about the products; that’s to be expected, because those terms have no legal definition! But it sometimes signals an intent on the part of the food maker to create a truly top-quality, healthy food.

In truth, despite the fact that there are so many food makers scattered across the country, a tiny percentage of them produce WDJ kinds of foods! We think we’re aware of most of the good ones, but there are new players entering the market every day, and some regional companies we’ve never heard of. If you’re aware of a food that meets our selection criteria but is not listed among our top picks, send us some information about it. We frequently review new or newly improved foods throughout the year.

But please, oh please DON’T call and ask us if it would be best for your dog, or if we could tell you over the phone if it’s any good. Hold that label up to our criteria list, below, and YOU can tell US whether it’s good stuff!

So, without any further ado, let’s look at WDJ’s Approved Dry Dog Food List (click here to view).

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Dog Food Manufacturers and the Food Labeling Skepticisms”
Click here to view “Labelling Dog Food Like People Food”
Click here to view “Which is the Best Type of Dog Food?”

Holistic Treatments for Canine Skin Rashes

Nancy Strouss lives and works with dogs. As the owner of People Training for Dogs in Valley Cottage, New York, she teaches group and private classes from puppy kindergarten to advanced obedience. Her own Golden Retrievers compete in the show ring, obedience, and agility, and when time permits they visit nursing homes as therapy dogs.

Juniper (Shady Lane Juniper, CDX, NA, TT, CGC) is a spayed 7½-year-old Golden Retriever who has been on a well-balanced raw diet for the past four years, prior to which she ate high-quality kibble and a variety of raw foods. Strouss, the dog’s co-breeder, raised Juniper without heartworm medication or unnecessary vaccinations. “She has been a very healthy dog with minimal need for veterinary care,” says Strouss. “Juniper has had an occasional hot spot, but otherwise, her health has been excellent. Her only regular veterinary appointment is a monthly maintenance adjustment from a veterinary chiropractor.”

Spilled food starts problems
As part of her training business, Strouss sells training equipment, natural pet foods, and supplements. Recently a local pet food store that was going out of business asked Strouss to carry its customers’ favorite reduced-calorie kibble. The food’s first ingredients are ground yellow corn, poultry by-products, wheat flour, poultry by-product meal, oat flour, and beet pulp.

“Some of its ingredients, like poultry by-products and beet pulp, are controversial,” says Strouss, “and I have serious questions about foods that contain large quantities of grain. At the same time, this food does not contain chemical preservatives, flavoring agents, or dyes. As a convenience to the store’s customers, I agreed to carry it.”

One day a 40-pound bag of the food broke open while Strouss was moving it. She put the spilled kibble into a container with a tight-fitting lid, but a few days later someone moved the container, the lid came off, and Strouss’s assistant discovered Juniper helping herself to the kibble. Strouss and her assistant weren’t concerned because Juniper hadn’t eaten much, and she seemed fine.

That night after teaching her classes, Strouss took her dogs outside to play ball, after which the dogs, as usual, drank plenty of water. She waited an hour before feeding them dinner.

“My dogs are all good eaters and never miss a meal,” she says, “so I was startled when Juniper refused to touch her food. I remembered the stolen kibble and immediately thought of bloat. Sure enough, her stomach and sides were distended. Of course, it was after hours and no vets in the area are open for emergencies, but fortunately I have a friend, Beverly Cappel, who is a holistic veterinarian. I decided to call her before making the 40-minute trip to the emergency hospital in New Jersey.”

Juniper was in the early stages of bloat and not yet showing the dangerous symptoms of panting, drooling, trying to vomit, or having difficulty lying down. Dr. Cappel suggested that Strouss give Juniper charcoal capsules, walk her for at least 15 minutes, and try to get her to burp.

“I did this right away,” says Strouss. “After a 15-minute walk, Juniper burped a few times and then defecated. I brought her back inside and kept a close eye on her. Her stomach was definitely less distended, and she lay down on a cool part of the floor and fell asleep. Half an hour later, she jumped up onto my bed and fell asleep again.”

The next day, Juniper seemed completely well, but Strouss decided to feed her a very small morning meal, just in case. “Late that afternoon I again noticed the early symptoms of bloating,” she says. “This time it happened during office hours, so I decided to take her across the street to my conventional veterinarian. Her stomach and sides were once again distended, but only slightly. We decided to repeat the charcoal and walk-till-you-burp routine, and again her symptoms disappeared.”

New signs of trouble
Juniper was her happy, healthy self for the next few days. Then Strouss noticed her licking an area on her inner thigh. At first it was a small, inflamed lesion, like a hot spot, but as the day went on, the inflamed area spread until it took over her entire belly, both inner thighs, and the sides of her ribcage. “It was like a wildfire burning out of control,” Strouss explains, “like a severe burn with a poison ivy rash on top of it. Ouch! The skin was red hot and moist. Juniper was obsessed with licking the area and had difficulty standing, walking, and sleeping due to pain and discomfort.”

Strouss contacted a veterinarian whose line of natural skin-care supplements she carries, describing Juniper’s symptoms. “Go see your local vet,” he told her. “This could be a superficial spreading pyoderma that will require antibiotics for about three weeks and may require short-term prednisone to put out the fire.”

However, after hearing this, Nancy Strouss didn’t follow his advice. Instead, she took matters into her own hands. Why?

“Juniper is a seven-year-old Golden Retriever,” says Strouss. “That’s an age/breed combination that tops the charts these days for developing cancer. Juniper has been raised and cared for holistically all her life. My goals for her have always been good health, good quality of living, and greater longevity. A conventional approach to the problem would have provided relief from her extreme discomfort, but at what price? In the long run, the excessive use of steroidal drugs and antibiotics destroys the body’s immune response and, I believe, leads to the development of cancer and other life-threatening diseases.”

Turning down the heat
Strouss cut all the hair away from the inflamed area and continued to trim it as the inflammation grew in size. “Every hour or so until bedtime, I took Juniper outside and sprayed her gently with cold water from the hose,” she says. “Sometimes she would stand in the wading pool, telling me it was time to hose her down. This brought her enormous relief. Had it been winter, I would have done this in the bathtub.” After each soaking, Strouss gently dried the area with soft towels and a hair dryer set on “cool.”

When Juniper’s skin was dry again, Strouss sprinkled the area with Gold Bond powder, a drug store talc powder that contains menthol, zinc oxide, acacia, eucalyptol, methyl salicylate, thymol, zinc stearate, and salicylic acid. “It’s recommended for skin irritations like burns, poison ivy, and prickly heat rashes,” says Strouss. “She lay on her back as I applied it, and I was careful to keep it away from her nose and mine, so we wouldn’t inhale its dust. Then I covered the area with a towel and held it in place for several minutes.

“These steps minimized her pain and allowed her to rest for about an hour, when we began again. Thinking about what was going on inside her, I gave her Traumeel, a homeopathic remedy for the symptoms of pain and inflammation, and Rescue Remedy, the Bach flower remedy recommended for stress, which I gave her orally whenever I noticed her panting or acting anxious. I diluted the Rescue Remedy with distilled water and sprayed it directly on the inflamed skin and in the air around her.”

Strouss also supplemented Juniper’s diet with digestive enzyme tablets (one or two every hour or so), extra vitamin C, two echinacea/goldenseal capsules three times a day to boost her immune system, and her usual raw diet. Juniper eats raw meat, raw meaty bones, and raw vegetables pressed with salt to produce lactic acid to feed her beneficial bacteria. Also, for several days Strouss added raw garlic to Juniper’s dinner for its immune system support.

Positive outcome
Juniper’s ordeal lasted one week, from the first symptoms of bloat and inflammation to their complete resolution. The rash disappeared, her skin stopped itching, and her playful disposition returned.

“Caring for a sick dog holistically can take longer and make more demands on the dog and owner than the use of symptom-suppressing drugs,” says Strouss. “I knew that in the long run, preserving Juniper’s own healing abilities was the right thing to do, but there were moments when I found myself fantasizing about prednisone.

“The temptation to treat these symptoms conventionally is overwhelming, both from the perspective of the dog’s discomfort and the amount of time and effort needed from the owner,” admits Strouss. “For many, like those who work away from home, hourly treatments are out of the question. If I didn’t have a flexible schedule, I would have used conventional therapies. But I was able to spend time with Juniper, so when I weighed the long-term benefits of natural care against the quick fix offered by conventional drugs, I decided in favor of Mother Nature, and I’m glad I did.

“Juniper is completely well, and she isn’t having to deal with the residues or side effects of cortisone, antibiotics, and other prescription drugs. I hope that, as a result, she will have a longer, healthier life.”

-By CJ Puotinen

CJ Puotinen is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats. She is a frequent contributor to WDJ.

Preserve Us!

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Many consumers have begun to question the presence of preservatives in dog food. Whether we like the idea or not, preservatives must be used in dry foods to combat the ill effects of exposure to oxygen. Preservatives are used in dog food primarily to stabilize fat. Since canning is itself a preserving process, additional preservatives do not have to be added to canned food.

The problem that preservatives address is the interaction of oxygen with fat known as oxidation which causes rancidity. Most fats used in dog food are pre-treated with antioxidants (compounds that prevent this reaction) before they are even shipped to the pet food manufacturer. Pet food makers generally tell their suppliers which antioxidants they will and will not accept. In the past, preservatives added by the supplier were not usually disclosed on the label, in defiance of an FDA regulation which required this. However, the majority of manufacturers now list the fat preservatives on the label, so you will usually see something like: Chicken fat (preserved with BHA).

Besides preventing rancidity, preservatives can also retard the growth of microbes like bacteria. While extruded foods are relatively sterile after departing from the high temperature and pressure environment of the screws, they may be re-contaminated during the drying process, or by bacteria lurking in the sprayed-on coating materials. Mold spores, which are ubiquitous in the air, can also sneak into the bag with the food. Preservatives also help prevent deterioration of vitamins (especially the fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K), energy value, and amino acid availability of the food.

Artificial preservatives
There are several synthetic antioxidants that are commonly used in dry dog food. Propylene glycol, the main ingredient in the new safer antifreeze, is a close relative of the highly toxic ethylene glycol. It is banned for use in cat foods because it damages feline red blood cells. No evidence has been found, however, that this occurs in dogs. It is mainly used in soft-moist foods, such as the squishy bits and chunks found in some dog foods.

Ethoxyquin, made by Monsanto, is a very effective antioxidant, but it has come under fire for suspected harmful effects. The pet food industry contends that no one has ever proven that Ethoxyquin is unsafe, but consumers complained of numerous health problems in dogs who ate foods preserved with the product. Today, Ethoxyquin is rarely seen in over-the-counter dog foods, although some makers still use it in their veterinary prescription-type diets.

Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) are very popular preservatives in the pet food industry and the human food industry. They are chemically similar, but BHT is more toxic to the kidneys than BHA, according to researchers at Michigan State University. BHT is prohibited as a food additive in England.

All of these chemicals are quite effective preservatives, providing a stable shelf life of at least 12 to 16 months under ideal storage conditions.

Interestingly, synthetic antioxidants have been shown in studies to have a protective effect against certain liver toxins and some tumors in animals, although some appear to actually promote other cancers, such as stomach, kidney, and bladder cancers. Ethoxyquin, BHA and BHT are well known to cause hypersensitivity (contact allergies) in chemical industry workers whose skin is chronically exposed to these chemicals. There is some evidence that Ethoxyquin may contribute to chronic kidney disease.

Because fats, oils, and other ingredients may be treated with antioxidants before they get to the pet food manufacturer, even canned foods (which don’t need preserving due to the oxygen-free environment in the can) are likely to contain them. One industry supplier claims that it is very difficult to buy stable animal fat, poultry by-products, meat meal and fish meal without Ethoxyquin. In fact, fish meal, which is a very common ingredient because of its rich flavor and nutrient value, is heavily preserved because of its unfortunate tendency to auto-combust in warm temperatures. (Several cargo ships carrying unpreserved fish meal have even experienced fires or explosions due to the heat generated by oxidation reactions!)

Too much?
Federal and state regulations restrict the levels of the artificial antioxidants in animal feed, including pet food, generally to 0.15 to 0.02 percent of the fat content. A total Ethoxyquin level of 150 ppm is permitted in animal feed, fish food, and pet food by law. In 1997, the FDA requested that pet food manufacturers voluntarily limit ethoxquin to 75 ppm based on new data from Monsanto. However, the only manufacturer still using Ethoxyquin in its over-the-counter foods recently stated that Ethoxyquin levels in its foods do not exceed 200 ppm, well over FDA’s suggested limit. Oddly enough, Ethoxyquin is allowed by federal regulations only in canned pet food not dry. However, the pet food industry has amply demonstrated its propensity for disregarding such inconvenient laws, and FDA lacks the manpower and resources to enforce them.

By way of comparison, Ethoxyquin in forage crops for food-producing animals is limited to 5 ppm. In human food, ethoxyquin is restricted to 100 ppm as a color preservative in chili powder, paprika and ground chili not exactly high-consumption items! and maximums of 0.5 ppm in eggs, zero in milk. BHA and BHT, however, are widely used in foods for human consumption.

Natural preservatives
Many pet food makers are now using so-called natural preservatives: ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and mixed tocopherols (vitamin E); and some even use such exotic items as rosemary extract. (Actually, what we consider vitamin E, alpha-tocopherol, is not an antioxidant itself, but the rest of the tocopherol complex, about seven compounds in all, do have that action).

Natural preservatives may not provide as long a shelf life they are said to be most effective for seven to nine months, though some companies have managed to stretch this to 12 months by combining several natural preservatives. Even if they are somewhat less reliable, natural preservatives are at least not harmful to our dogs, and may even provide a few extra vitamins.

How long can this last?
So, now we have a finished dry dog food in the bag, complete with preservatives what happens next? If there is a limited shelf life, don’t we want to make sure that the food we buy is safely within those limits?

There is no legal requirement for manufactured on, expiration or best used by dates on pet food packaging, nor is there even an accepted industry-wide standard. A few years ago, most dog food labels were coded in a way that very deliberately obscured the actual date of manufacture. Fortunately for us, this has shifted toward providing more consumer-friendly information.

After a period of confusion where various labeling schemes were used, the largest companies have set a sort of de facto standard: rather than stamp the manufacturing date on the package, they use a best used by date. This date is usually 12 to 16 months after the date of manufacture. But it is still impossible to tell from the label exactly when the food was made or what the shelf life should be.

Lamentably, some companies don’t use a date stamp at all, and a few still use coded stamps that prevent you, the consumer, from knowing anything about when the food was made at all, or how long it is supposed to last. It is probably best to avoid such foods, if for no other reason that to reward the manufacturers who do provide such information for being honest and above-board.

The manufacturers agree that, when it’s present, the best used by date is just that do not buy a food that is nearly at its date, if you plan to be feeding it for several weeks. The period of time the bag is at your house and being fed, right down to the last kibble, must be included in the shelf life.

It is extremely important to check every bag you buy for a date stamp. In my research, I found several lots of food that had best used by dates that were long since passed. They were still sitting on store shelves months after they should have been discarded! The manufacturers rely on the stores to rotate their stocks, but even at the big pet food retailers, this does not always happen.

It is preferable to buy food that is closer to its manufacture date than a food that has been sitting in a warehouse or on a shelf for 10 or 11 months. No matter what preservatives are used, there will always be some deterioration of the food over time. The nutritional value will be compromised, and the food may even become unpalatable to the dog. I recommend buying only the freshest foods and using them as soon as possible especially the naturally preserved foods.

Finally, it is important to remember that, no matter what preservatives are used or what the expiration date is, any dog food will deteriorate rapidly if exposed to adverse conditions, such as widely varying temperatures, excessive heat, or moisture.

-By Jean Hofve, DVM

Dr. Jean Hofve is the Companion Animal Program Coordinator for the Animal Protection Institute, located in Sacramento, California.

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It’s All In How You Make It

The author’s Labrador, Samantha, dives right into a bowl of lacto-fermented cucumbers fresh out of a ceramic German pickle crock. Most dogs (and their families) relish the taste of vegetables prepared by this method.

There would we be without our microwave ovens, convenience foods, and modern, high-tech food production methods? A lot better off, say some researchers.

One of them is Sally Fallon, founder of the Weston A. Price Nutrition Foundation and author of the ground-breaking cookbook Nourishing Traditions (New Trends Publishing, 1999). According to Fallon, just about everything that has been done to America’s food supply in the last century has been detrimental to the food itself and to those who consume it. The way we grow, harvest, store, and process our grains, fruits, vegetables, oils, meat, poultry, and dairy products is entirely different from methods used by humans around the world for thousands of years.

The result, says Fallon, is an epidemic of modern diseases, including cancer, heart disease, allergies, and auto-immune disorders. It is only by adopting our ancestors’ farming and food preparation methods, she says, that we can fully meet our nutritional requirements and enjoy perfect health.

Today, food scientists are educating people in the art of preparing foods in ways that preserve and enhance the nutrients naturally contained in them. People who are committed to providing the healthiest foods for their families won’t find it too difficult to extend these methods to the preparation of the family dog’s meals.

Traditional preparation methods increase the digestibility of many foods we share with dogs. These simple steps so dramatically improve the nutritional content of everyday foods that they reduce or eliminate the need for nutritional supplements.

In fact, the food-source nutrients that these techniques release are so easily assimilated that their effects are superior to those of any synthetic or laboratory-produced supplement. Improving the nutritional content of the food we give our dogs can significantly improve their overall health, endurance, skin and coat condition, joint flexibility, strength, digestion, wound healing, reproduction, and immune function.

Time and organization are the main ingredients in these techniques, but quality is a factor, too. Holistic veterinarians agree that today’s dogs are adversely affected by industrial and agricultural chemicals and pollutants. Whenever possible, it makes sense to use organically grown, minimally processed, fresh, whole foods.

Any home-prepared diet can be improved without altering its basic ingredients or menus by using the following methods.

Lactic acid fermentation

Vegetables are important to canine health, and although advocates of home-prepared diets debate the quantity of vegetable matter dogs should consume, all agree that vegetables contain essential nutrients that are not provided by other foods.

Unlike animals that evolved on a vegetarian diet, dogs lack the ability to break down cellulose, a carbohydrate consisting of linked glucose units in plant cell walls. One way to help dogs digest vegetables is to puree them. Blenders and food processors make this task easy, and pureed root vegetables like carrots and parsnips, leafy herbs such as parsley, and grasses like wheat grass or barley grass can be added to every meal with good results.

There is another way to improve the digestibility of vegetables, and a growing body of research indicates that this method both prevents and helps cure cancer and other serious illnesses. Lactic acid fermentation is one of the simplest and oldest methods of food preservation.

There are two kinds of lactic acid. One is found in the blood, muscle tissue, and stomach; the other is produced by bacteria. During active exercise, pyruvic acid, a compound derived from carbohydrates, breaks down into lactic acid, which can accumulate in the muscles and cause cramps. Lactic acid consumed in foods such as yogurt and naturally fermented vegetables does not have this effect. It actually helps remove the harmful lactic acid from muscles.

Lactic acid that is generated through fermentation produces vitamin C, vitamin B12, enzymes that support metabolic activity, choline (which balances and nourishes the blood), and acetylcholine, which tones the nerves, calms the mind, and improves sleep patterns. Lactic acid is also a chemical repressor that fights cancer cells without harming healthy cells.

As William L. Fischer explains in his book How to Fight Cancer and Win (Alive Books), unpasteurized sauerkraut and other fermented vegetables are living foods that improve bowel health and digestion, maintain beneficial intestinal flora, help eliminate harmful bacteria, improve the assimilation of nutrients, and enhance healing.

To make lacto-fermented vegetables, you don’t need special equipment, although a plastic Japanese salad press or ceramic German pickle crock simplifies the effort. You can do it in a glass or ceramic bowl using a weighted plate as a press. The basic ingredients are vegetables, a pinch of salt, a few optional herbs, and time.

Cucumbers, the fastest to prepare, are ready in about two hours. Carrots and other root vegetables take a couple of days if they are sliced rather than shredded and a week or more if prepared in a large ceramic crock. You may try this technique on your pet’’s behalf, but once you taste the results, lacto-fermented vegetables may become part of your own daily diet. The vegetables can be added to salads, served as side dishes, or used in recipes that call for raw vegetables.

As with any new food, introduce fermented vegetables gently and in small quantities. Many dogs love them at first bite, but if your dog needs coaxing, mix a tiny amount with her regular food and whatever oil you normally add, such as flax seed, coconut, or cod liver oil.

Some pet nutritionists recommend that vegetables make up as much as 20 to 25 percent of a dog’’s diet, while those who follow the prey model, in which vegetables represent the partly digested contents of a prey animal’’s digestive tract, use much smaller amounts. Whatever vegetables you now feed can be replaced with a slightly smaller amount, such as 10 to 15 percent less by volume, of lacto-fermented fare. Fermentation and pressing condense the vegetables and concentrate their nutrients. The resulting liquid, which looks like water but is really the vegetable’s’ juice, is a rich source of lactic acid and other nutrients. It can be added in small amounts, such as 1 or 2 tablespoons at a time, to your pet’s food and drinking water.

Vegetables are “”done”” when they taste tangy and feel slightly soft. They keep in the refrigerator for several weeks, especially if stored in plastic bags from which you press the air before sealing, or store them in glass jars with their juice.

For best results, use an unrefined sea salt such as Eden, Lima, or Celtic Sea Salt, all of which are sold in health food stores. These salts, which are manufactured in France by traditional methods, are gray in color, feel moist to the touch, and contain all of the minerals and trace elements found in unpolluted sea water.

Wash vegetables thoroughly, but do not peel organically grown produce except for thick-skinned cucumbers; if the vegetables are commercially grown, reduce pesticide residues by washing well, removing outer leaves, or peeling. Then slice with a knife, shred with a grater, puree, or slice/shred with a food processor, discarding any tough stems or damaged portions. Use only glass, ceramic, stainless steel, or plastic pressing materials, not aluminum, tin, or copper. Keep all utensils meticulously clean.

Want a preview? Too busy to make your own? Some health food stores carry lacto-fermented vegetables, including unpasteurized sauerkraut.

Making grains digestible

Although dogs are not designed to eat cooked food, they cannot digest raw grain, either. Pet nutritionists agree that the only grain that dogs can fully utilize has been predigested, such as by a prey animal’s digestive organs. Cooked grains are more digestible than raw grains, but cooking does not digest grains. Microwave cooking, cooking in a pressure cooker, and the high heat and pressure used in extrusion processing (the method used to produce most commercial kibble) alter the protein molecules and fragile oils in grains.

In traditional cultures, grain was never used in its dormant state. Raw grain contains enzyme inhibitors that prevent sprouting until the grain absorbs enough moisture and warmth to support life. Lacking these conditions, grain remains inert.

In the industrial West, grain is taken from field to storage in a single day. This is very different from traditional methods, in which harvested grain was left in the field for days or weeks, during which rain and sunlight provided the conditions needed for germination. Partly germinated grain was stored whole, ground just before use, and soaked overnight before cooking. Gruels and porridges made from the grain were cooked slowly over gentle heat, and breads made from it were allowed to ferment for days before baking. All of these steps release vitamins, amino acids, and other nutrients while removing chemicals that interfere with digestion.

Soaking removes phytic acid, an organic acid in untreated grain which combines with calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, and zinc in the intestinal tract, blocking their absorption. According to Sally Fallon, this is why a diet high in whole grains can lead to serious mineral deficiencies and bone loss. You can prevent this adverse effect with overnight soaking in warm water, which, in addition to destroying phytates, neutralizes the enzyme inhibitors present in all grains, increases the production of beneficial enzymes, helps break down gluten (a difficult-to-digest protein found in most grains), and makes grains less likely to cause allergic reactions.

Unlocking nutrients

The process of germination or sprouting changes grains into living foods that are rich in vitamins, trace minerals, the carbohydrate-digesting enzyme amylase, amino acids, and other nutrients. Before-and-after measurements show as much as 25 times more vitamin K and 12 times more carotene in grain after it has sprouted. B-complex vitamins such as pantothenic acid typically increase up to 200 percent, vitamin B12 by over 500 percent, pyridoxine by 600 percent, and riboflavin by nearly 150 percent.

Use organically raised wheat, rye, spelt, kamut, barley, oats, millet, buckwheat, or other grains from a health food store, macrobiotic supply company, or sprout catalog. Rice is the only popular grain for which this process is not recommended.

Soak ½ to 1 cup grain in a wide-mouth quart jar of water to which you have added 10 drops of liquid grapefruit seed extract, an all-purpose disinfectant. Soak the grain 10 to 12 hours or overnight. For increased mineral content, add a pinch of powdered or liquid kelp to the soak water. H

ealth food stores sell plastic sprouting lids for wide-mouth quart jars, or you can fashion a sprouting lid with cheesecloth and a rubber band. Sprouting lid in place, drain the jar well, then lay it on its side in a warm place away from direct sunlight. Ideal sprouting temperatures are between 70° and 80° Fahrenheit.

After 24 to 36 hours, you will see small white roots emerge from the grain. If you don’t see this growth on almost every seed by the second day, your grain is not viable and should be discarded. Assuming that it’s sprouting, let it grow another day, then puree the grain in a blender or food processor.

Add a tablespoon of raw honey (a source of carbohydrate-digesting amylase) and/or ¼ teaspoon of an enzyme powder containing amylase and let the mash stand at room temperature for an hour or two before refrigerating. This gives the amylase a chance to work, further breaking down and predigesting the grain.

To introduce predigested grain to your dog, start with 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight every other day and gradually increase the amount as desired.

Cooking grains

Many popular diets for dogs include large or small amounts of cooked grain. The nutritional content of any cooked grain can be improved by first soaking it in warm, filtered water and whey. For best results, soak 1 cup grain such as whole wheat, rolled or cracked oats, or a coarsely ground blend of wheat, millet, short-grain rice, barley, and oats, in 1 cup water plus 2 tablespoons liquid whey for at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours. Some grains, like rye, may need additional water and soaking time for complete hydration. The ancient grains teff and amaranth are best soaked for 24 hours.

To make a traditional porridge, add the soaked grain to 1 cup boiling water or stock, lower heat, cover, and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes. Soaking significantly reduces the cooking time of whole grains.

To make a simple whole-grain casserole, Sally Fallon recommends combining 2 cups sprouting grain with 3 cups beef or chicken stock. Bring to a boil and skim. Add 1 teaspoon sea salt and ½ teaspoon each dried thyme, rosemary, and crushed green peppercorns. Boil vigorously until the liquid is reduced to the level of the grain. Transfer to a 250°F oven and bake for approximately 4 hours, or until the grain is tender.

Add digestive enzyme powder according to label directions when feeding cooked grain to help compensate for the enzymes destroyed by cooking.

Whole rice and millet contain lower amounts of phytates than other grains, and they are gluten-free, which makes them easier to digest even without presoaking. However, these grains should be cooked very slowly over low heat in a high-mineral, gelatinous broth to facilitate digestion.

Corn is widely used in commercial pet foods because it is inexpensive. It is also notoriously difficult for dogs to digest. In traditional cultures that utilized corn or maize, it was always soaked in lime water. Soaking in lime water releases the vitamin B3 in corn, which otherwise remains bound up, and it improves the amino acid quality of proteins in the corn’s germ. Soaking also destroys corn’s enzyme inhibitors.

To make lime water, place 1 inch of dolomite powder (sold as a supplement in health food stores) in a half-gallon (2-quart) glass jar. Fill the jar with filtered water, cover tightly, shake well, and let stand overnight. The resulting clear liquid will be lime water, which does not require refrigeration. To use, carefully pour off what you need without disturbing the settled powder. To replenish the jar, top it with filtered water, cover, and shake well. Also With This Article Click here to view “Feed Your Dog Vegetables” Click here to view “Home Prepared Dog Food Recipes”

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Download the Full January 2001 Issue

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Download the Full December 2000 Issue

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Latest Blog

Why Veterinary Wellness Exams Are Important

I took my two dogs—Woody, age 9, and Boone, age 3—to see their vet a week ago. I wasn’t looking forward to being chided for allowing him—nay, facilitating him—to gain a few extra pounds this winter. But I wasn’t at all expecting the health problems that my vet found.