Stress. Everyone knows what it feels like. Tight shoulders. Headache. Insomnia. Upset stomach. Everyone knows what can trigger it. Rush hour traffic. Deadlines. An insensitive boss. A toddler having a day of tantrums, unexpected bills, or taxes.
We also know that too much stress can actually make us ill. Ulcers and high blood pressure are prime examples. A recent study noted that 19 percent of employees who call in sick on any particular day do so because they simply felt they needed a day off.
Compared to our stress-filled lives, our dogs have it really easy, right? Well, sometimes. The fact is, our dogs can be and often are stressed by numerous factors in their lives, too. The stressors may seem insignificant to us, as we grapple with the difficult processes of making money, paying the bills, and handling the relationships in our lives. But, examined from their perspective, a dog’s life can be very difficult indeed. And once you are familiar with the body-language indicators of stress, you can easily observe that many dogs are tense much of the time.
Studying Signs of Stress in Dogs
Turid Rugaas, a Norwegian dog trainer who has conducted much study of dogs’ “calming signals” (discussed in the August 1999 issue of Whole Dog Journal), has identified a number of behaviors that she believes are indicators of excessive or unhealthy stress:
Stressful situations, Rugaas believes, can and do contribute to a number of health problems in dogs. The more we understand the external contributing factors that lead to stress, and the better comprehension we have of the physiology of stress, the better equipped we will be to help our dogs relax into a long, healthy life.
It doesn’t take an expert to determine the more obvious canine stressors; this can be gleaned from our own observations of our dogs’ behavior. Many dogs dread going to the veterinarian’s office. Panting, sweaty paws, and diarrhea may accompany these necessary visits, and the vet’s examining table will be covered in shed hairs. Riding in the car, while a delight for some dogs, is a form of torture for others. Tense muscles, vomiting, foam drool or excessive barking may accompany these automobile trips. Being left home alone is highly stressful for some canines, who are highly social pack animals by nature. These individuals may develop bloat, dig, pace, chew, or bark excessively. Dogs who are concerned about their obedience lessons or being in the presence of other dogs while on lead often bite the leash or run away when the leash comes out. And fearful dogs, when feeling pushed into a corner, may act out with unwanted aggression.
But Rugaas also regards many other activities – some of which are thought by most dog owners to be pure fun for their dogs – to be overly stressful for some dogs. For instance, she feels that active play for 30 minutes or more can stress our dogs out for several days at a time. She recommends that dog owners refrain from engaging their dogs in highly active play more than twice a week. That includes intense games of Frisbee or fetch. And she suggests that we do not play ball immediately after we come home, since our dogs’ adrenaline will already be quite high in anticipation of our arrival from work. According to Rugaas, playing too much may be just as harmful as working too much.
Doggie daycare, while used by many to alleviate the stress of the home-alone dog, can itself be a stress-maker. Joining with a group of canine friends usually provides lots of excitement, which needs to be balanced by adequate down time. Make sure your facility offers and enforces quiet time.
A Balanced Life for Dogs
Too much competition can also cause undue stress. Three-day agility courses are fun, but they get that adrenaline running overtime. Being on the show circuit is hard on a dog’s body and mind. The body’s stress-chemical production is cumulative and can take weeks to months to return to normal. While intense play may not seem like a problem in itself, combine that with a host of other identified stressors such as boredom, poor diet, excessive noise, moving to a new home, or addition of new animals into the family and you have a recipe for trouble.
The Physiology of Canine Stress
Medical encyclopedias define stress as any emotional, physical, social, or any other factor that elicits any response in a subject. The stresses we are concerned with, however, are factors that trigger the release of what is commonly called the “fight or flight” chemical: adrenaline.
In simple terms, the brain “tells” the rest of the body what to do, by sending messages through the nerves that branch from the brain down the spine and out to the periphery of the body. Half of this communication system is comprised of the voluntary nervous system – the part of the system under our conscious control. We decide to move a muscle and the body responds. Thus we can choose to brush our hair, pet our dogs, or take a walk on the beach. And our dogs may give us a paw, heel at our side or scratch behind an ear.
The other half of the nervous system, called the involuntary or autonomic nervous system, projects to organs besides skeletal muscle and controls the less conscious bodily functions such blushing, sweating and getting gooseflesh, or for dogs, raising hackles and shedding.
Action/Reaction in the Nervous System
The involuntary or autonomic nervous system is further divided into two halves: the sympathetic and the parasympathetic nervous systems. The sympathetic nervous system is activated by our response to stress, kicking into action when our action is called for.
Whenever life gets exciting or alarming, the sympathetic nervous system releases adrenaline into the bloodstream. Excitement can happen visiting the dog park, playing ball or a game of tug-of-war, or at the approach of a stranger.
The 4 F’s of instinctive behavior – flight, fight, faint and fooling around – are all accompanied by production of adrenaline. Constant activation of this stress-response can deplete the body, create fatigue and eventually lead to muscle atrophy.
Adrenaline is secreted by the sympathetic nerve endings in the adrenal glands. Noradrenaline, a related substance, is secreted by all of the other sympathetic nerve endings throughout the body. These are the chemical messengers that kick various organs into gear, within a fraction of a second, causing the heart rate, blood pressure, and breathing rate to increase in order to transport nutrients and oxygen at greater rates of speed. Digestion is inhibited, as is growth, in order to conserve energy. This is why a continually stressed puppy may not reach its full growth potential. In the frequent presence of adrenaline, the immune system is also inhibited, which can make an animal more susceptible to disease.
Over long periods of time, the presence of high amounts of adrenaline can cause serious damage to the body. When the dog’s blood pressure is continually high, damage begins to occur at branch points in arteries throughout the body, and fatty deposits begin to form a thickening of the blood vessel linings. It may take time for the negative results of chronic stress to become apparent, but because they are invisible doesn’t mean they don’t exist.
The second half of the involuntary or autonomic nervous system, the parasympathetic nervous system, complements the sympathetic nervous system. Whereas the sympathetic nervous system is activated by stress, the parasympathetic nervous system is suppressed by stress.
The parasympathetic nervous system helps the subject engage in vegetative, relaxing activities. Digestion and rest are mediated by this part of our nervous system. The parasympathetic nervous system secretes chemical substances which encourage the exact opposite functions as the sympathetic nervous system. Where the sympathetic system elevates the heart beat, the parasympathetic slows it down after the crisis has passed.
Stress Reduction for Dogs
Some situations – like shipping a dog on an airplane across the country or a dog staying in an animal shelter – are well-known stressors that can alter a dog’s physiology for days or even weeks. Rugaas recommends that shelters give all dogs at least six days to adapt to the stressful environment before making decisions to euthanize based on behavior. Providing a den to hide out in will help new arrivals cope. When adopting a dog, be flexible and forgiving for the first couple of weeks. Let your new family member take it easy and have time to adjust. Some apparent problems may vanish as stress hormone levels decrease.
Remember that the key to a happy, healthy dog is balance. Too much or too little exercise can be harmful. The same is true for socialization. Remember that major life changes – new pets in the family, a divorce, a move to a new home – are almost always stressful. Inconsistency can frustrate your dog, be it an irregular feeding program or lack of follow-through in training. Boredom may be your dog’s bug-a-boo, or it may be harsh training methods. And make sure that your dog has a thorough veterinary examination annually. Pain and injury is often at the seat of unwanted aggressive behavior. Besides acting out as a way of protecting herself, your dog may be experiencing chronic stress from unrecognized pain. Older dogs may have arthritis and many dogs have had past injuries – whacked tails, a bad fall, or an old bite – that, even when healed, still cause them to exhibit a protective attitude. Be careful about pushing any dog into situations where she may be uncomfortable.
TTouch Helps Relaxation
Is there anything we can do besides being mindful about keeping stressors to a minimum in our dogs’ lives? As a TTouch practitioner, I can testify about the effectiveness of this form of body work to affect the nervous system and bring relaxation. This, in turn, can help strengthen the immune response. The easy-to-learn circular touches and gentle lifts may actually help to change the hormonal balance in the body. These TTouches can also help a dog gain awareness of his own bodily tension – a stress response – and help with its release.
One needn’t understand anything about the science behind TTouch (discussed thoroughly in “A Touch Should Do It,” WDJ July 1998 and “A Calming TTouch,” WDJ May 1999) to be effective. Simply making a connection with the pads of the fingers and moving the skin over the muscle in a clockwise circular motion, doing just a circle and a quarter, can help your dogs recover from stress while helping to reduce your own. Doing brief sessions of TTouch all over your dog’s body during quiet times can help fully activate the parasympathetic system and bring awareness of the relaxed state.
Then, when you take your dog to the vet, or enter into some other stressful situation, a few TTouches can act as a bodily reminder to stay calm. Or, when loud noises get your dog’s adrenaline pumping, a few circular TTouches and gentle stroking of the ears can bring a quick return to a more relaxed state.
Be aware of your own rhythmic breathing, taking periodic deep breaths, and this, too, will help your dog remain calm, focused and relaxed. And remember, whatever you do to help your canine best friend remain stress-free should carry over into your own life, leading to greater health, relaxation and more enjoyment for you both.
Suggested Reading
Stanford University neuroscientist Robert Sapolsky has written a very witty and informative book on stress called Why Zebras Don’t Get Ulcers, in which he thoroughly describes the physiology and chemistry of stress in animals (including humans).
Neuroscientist Candace Pert’s book, Molecules of Emotion, will also further your understanding of the physiology of stress.
Author Jodi Frediani has spent a lifetime working with animals of all kinds. She is a Certified TTOUCH Companion Animal Instructor and TTEAM Horse Practitioner. She attended her first dog obedience classes at age 12, has been involved with TTEAM/TTOUCH since 1985 and currently teaches clinics in the United States and Africa.
When Dee (Ch. Antren’s Dearest Jaegerin) jumped onto her owner’s bed last May, she slipped and fell flat on her back. The 10-year-old, 98-pound Rottweiler scrambled to her feet and seemed fine, but a few hours later, her hind legs collapsed. “They just buckled,” says her owner, Kathy Signorile. “We were on our afternoon walk here in rural Pennsylvania, and suddenly Dee couldn’t move. After a few minutes she took a few steps, but then she had to sit down again. It took forever to get back to the house, and it was really scary.” X-rays taken the following day showed that Dee’s hips and legs were exceptionally healthy for a dog her age and size. “The problem was the area along her spine just above the hip joint, which by then was noticeably tender and swollen,” says Kathy. “The veterinarian told us she had probably suffered nerve damage and that there wasn’t anything we could do but watch and wait.”
That was difficult for all concerned. “Dee had always been an active dog,” says Kathy. “She loved to play, go for walks, and take long rides in the car. She had been a therapy dog for five years, visiting hospitals and nursing homes, and she had just won an award from the Colonial Rottweiler Club for therapy dog of the year. Now, in addition to being in constant pain, she was losing interest in the world around her. Unless my husband and I lifted her, she couldn’t get up. We put her in a harness to take her outside, but even with our help she could barely manage the walk to the yard. Sometimes she’d fall over, and we had to pull her up. We began to consider the possibility that Dee would never recover.”
Dee obviously became the main topic of conversation between the Signoriles and their friends, and it was this support network that was responsible for leading the concerned couple to a solution to Dee’s problems. One of their friends had read about systemic oral enzyme therapy, and suggested that they try the product mentioned in the article, a German product called Wobenzym N, which is sold in American health food stores. Therapeutic doses of the digestive enzymes are taken between meals on an empty stomach.
Two weeks after Dee’s accident, the Signoriles began giving the dog five Wobenzym tablets twice a day. Within just a few days, they noticed an improvement. “She moved a little more comfortably,” says Kathy, “and every time we took her out, I got her to walk a little farther. She had been sleeping in the same spot by the sofa day after day, but one afternoon she surprised us by not being there. She had moved to a different side of the room. Then she walked by herself onto the back porch. We were thrilled. Dee was showing signs of life.” Their daily outings grew longer, and three weeks after beginning the enzyme therapy, Dee walked a mile. Soon she was strolling three miles with ease, and one day, Kathy found her lying on the bed she had originally fallen from. “We couldn’t believe it,” Kathy says. “It seemed like a miracle. By mid-July, which was two months after her accident and six weeks after she started taking enzymes, Dee was not only completely well, she was healthier than she’d been in years.”
What’s An Enzyme?
Enzymes are protein-like compounds that, in small amounts, speed the rate of biological reactions. Unstable, fragile, and easily inactivated, enzymes are produced within living cells to perform specific biochemical reactions. Enzymes exist in plants as well as animals. Without them, life as we know it would not exist. Enzymes cause seeds to sprout, flowers to blossom, plants to grow, autumn leaves to change color, and fruits to ripen. Enzymes play a vital role in the fermentation of foods such as cheese, kefir, yogurt, sauerkraut, and soy sauce. Many enzymes are cultivated for use in industrial processes, medical testing, food production, and as ingredients in household products such as pet stain removers, laundry detergents, toothpaste, and facial cleansers. Living animals manufacture thousands of enzymes for various functions throughout their bodies.
Metabolic Improvements
Two of the most important types of enzymes are metabolic enzymes, which operate throughout the body, and digestive enzymes, which stimulate biochemical reactions in the stomach and intestines. Nearly every raw food carries within it the enzymes necessary for its digestion, as well as metabolic enzymes, but cooking, baking, pasteurization, frying, high-temperature drying, and boiling destroy them.
Like humans, dogs and cats that eat mostly cooked or processed food consume few if any enzymes, and must manufacture the substances themselves. Proponents of enzyme therapy believe that supplemental enzymes can benefit the body in two important ways: They can spare the body the effort of producing enzymes, and they can initiate improved cellular function in every body system.
Dr. Edward Howell, author of Enzyme Nutrition: The Food Enzyme Concept, forwarded the theory that when a person or animal eats food that does not contain enzymes, forcing the body to manufacture the enzymes needed for digestion and other functions, it is as if the body must make a withdrawal from its enzyme bank. The more withdrawals that are made without compensating deposits, the faster the enzyme bank is depleted. Dr. Howell believed that health itself depends on the efficient action of metabolic enzymes, and providing the body with fuel that spares its metabolic enzymes can be a key to maintaining good health.
Metabolic enzymes do all the structuring, repair, and remodeling in every cell, organ, and tissue. When metabolic enzymes decline in number, Howell speculated, the aging process accelerates. Dr. Howell observed that dogs and cats in the wild do not produce enzymes in their saliva – ostensibly because their raw diets include adequate enzymes. He also learned that dogs switched from raw food to a high-carbohydrate, heat-treated diet begin to produce enzymes in their saliva within about a week. He theorized that the manufacture of these enzymes may cost these animals enzymes they may need at a later date for metabolic functions. “The remarkable thing about the eventual bankruptcy of the enzyme account,” wrote Howell, “is that it can proceed quite painlessly, without immediate symptoms.”
The digestion of food takes a high priority and acts as a powerful stimulus in the demand for enzymes. If the function of digestion takes more than its rightful share, other organs and tissues must manage with the remaining capacity. This, he explained, is how many illnesses and ailments begin.
Many holistic veterinarians agree with the theory. “Young bodies can compensate for a lack of enzymes in the food they eat, but enzyme production declines with age. Older dogs and cats benefit from enzyme supplements, which improve digestion, tissue repair, and inflammatory conditions like arthritis,” says Beverly Cappel, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Chestnut Ridge, New York. “Animals of all ages benefit from enzyme therapy for injuries, wound healing, and serious illnesses.”
In New Hampshire, one of Susan Appelin’s Greyhounds had part of a rib removed to treat a hemangiosarcoma, but the tumor grew back. Another Greyhound was diagnosed with a mast cell sarcoma. “These cancers are almost always fatal,” she says, “and my veterinarian gave me no hope for the dogs’ survival. I decided I would not give up and prayed for guidance.” When a holistic physician told her about Wobenzym N, she added between-meal enzymes to a regimen of vitamins and home-prepared food for her dogs. “Eighteen months ago, the dog with the hemangiosarcoma was given 30 days to live,” she says, “but thanks to Wobenzym, his tumor shrank and disappeared. The other dog has been in remission for 12 months. I now have all four of my Greyhounds and five cats on Wobenzym.”
Digestive Enzyme Supplements
The use of enzyme supplements that specifically assist digestion is fairly well known and utilized among dog caretakers – much more so than metabolic enzyme supplementation – perhaps because proper digestion affects the body’s overall health in such profound ways. “Incomplete digestion allows partially digested particles to be reabsorbed into the bloodstream from the large intestine, creating immune dysfunction, inflammation, allergies, and other problems,” says Dr. Cappel. Veterinarians and pet owners who supplement their dogs’ food with Prozyme, a popular digestive enzyme supplement, typically report improved skin and coat, increased stamina, improved immune system response, fewer allergies, faster wound healing, improved digestion, stronger joints, and increased range of motion. The most commonly reported side effect is that dogs often gain weight when Prozyme is added to their food. In underweight dogs, this is an asset. In previously normal-weight dogs, serving portions may have to be reduced by up to 15 percent as the dog’s digestion becomes more and more efficient. Research has shown that Prozyme increases the absorption of essential nutrients, especially zinc, selenium, vitamin B6, and linoleic acid, from pet food. Digestive enzyme supplements abound; just go look in your local health food store. Plant-derived enzymes include protease, which digests protein; lipase, an upper digestive tract enzyme that breaks down fats or lipids; and amylase, a saliva enzyme that digests starch or carbohydrates. Proteases, or proteolytic enzymes, include many different enzymes, each of which breaks down a specific amino acid found in protein. Lipases, or lipolytic enzymes, digest lipids (oils and fats), including phospholipids such as lecithin, sterols such as cholesterol, and triglycerides. Amylases, or amylytic enzymes, interact with carbohydrates, including lactose, a sugar in milk; fructose, a simple sugar found in honey and sweet fruits; starches, which occur in almost all plant foods, especially grains; and sucrose, the disaccharide found in cane sugar and beet sugar, which contains fructose and glucose. Pancreatic enzyme supplements are usually derived from pigs or cattle. Pancreatin contains many enzymes, including protease, lipase, and amylase. It works in the small intestine, where it assists in the digestion of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. Most digestive enzyme products utilize protease, amylase, and lipase. Some brands also include hydrochloric acid, pepsin, ox bile, papain from papaya, cellulose-digesting enzymes, bromelain from pineapple, and other ingredients. Enzyme supplements are sold as powders, capsules, or tablets. Tablets labeled “coated” or “enteric-coated” are protected by an acid-resistant shell that passes through the stomach undigested and breaks apart in the intestines.
Systemic Oral Enzyme Therapy
When taken with food, digestive enzymes improve the food’s breakdown and assimilation. When taken on an empty stomach between meals, the same enzymes are carried by the blood throughout the body, hence the term “systemic.” Instead of addressing a single function, such as digestion or circulation, systemic therapies have a tonic effect on the entire body, helping it heal itself from within. Proteolytic enzymes taken between meals correct a host of illnesses and imbalances by degrading protein molecules that have penetrated tissue, resulting in edema and inflammation; in addition, they increase the flexibility of red blood cells, improving the flow of blood through the arteries and inhibiting platelet aggregation, which helps prevent abnormal clotting. The same enzymes stimulate the immune system by activating macrophages and natural killer (NK) cells. Cellular debris is removed more efficiently, cleansing tissue, improving circulation, and stimulating the growth of healthy new cells. In research conducted on boxers (human athletes, not the dog breed!), bromelain was shown to significantly reduce swelling and bruising from trauma injuries and speed wound healing. Papain has proven anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties. Pancreatin taken on an empty stomach reduces inflammation and pain throughout the body and helps eliminate intestinal parasites by literally digesting them. Other enzymes reduce inflammation, improve immune function, and stimulate the digestion of bacteria, toxins, and incompletely digested proteins, cleansing the lymph and blood of problem-causing particles. Digestive enzymes taken at night, several hours after dinner, help relieve food sensitivities, hay fever allergies, and insomnia caused by reactions to food. In dozens of clinical trials in which systemic oral enzymes were compared to prescription drugs or other conventional therapies, patients taking oral enzymes experienced comparable or superior results. European athletes on systemic oral enzyme therapy have recovered quickly from sports injuries. In addition, enzymes increase the effectiveness of prescription drugs, such as antibiotics, when they are taken together. Many enzyme supplements sold as digestive aids can be taken between meals to help speed healing. Single-enzyme products include bromelain, pancreatin, and papain. Most health food stores offer several brands of each as well as blends containing these and other ingredients. Note: Products containing hydrochloric acid (HCl), sometimes labeled betain hydrochloride, should not be taken on an empty stomach unless recommended for between-meal use on the label. In Europe, systemic oral enzyme therapy is often used in place of aspirin and other nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), including ibuprofen, phenylbutazone, and diclofenac. Dr. Cappel is one of the growing number of American veterinarians who recommend enzymes for their anti-inflammatory effect in dogs and cats. “It’s ironic,” she says, “but both steroidal and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs actually cause degeneration. They temporarily suppress symptoms such as pain, swelling, tenderness, and inflammation, but they don’t correct the cause of these problems. In fact, they make it worse. Enzymes are wonderful for pets because they don’t have adverse side effects, and they address the cause of inflammation, so the body heals itself.” David Steinman, enzyme authority and publisher of The Doctors’ Prescription for Healthy Living newsletter, agrees. “There is a big push by the pharmaceutical industry to market NSAIDs for pets,” he says, “but European studies show that NSAIDs are, after vaccines, the leading cause of treatment-related death in dogs. Enzymes stimulate the regeneration of damaged tissue, so they don’t just mask the problem, they actually repair it.” In addition to using systemic oral enzyme therapy for injuries, arthritis, auto-immune diseases, cardiovascular disease, and all types of digestive problems, Dr. Cappel prescribes enzyme supplements for cancer patients. “Large doses of pancreatic enzymes have been used with human cancer patients for decades,” she says. “Dogs with cancer often respond well to this treatment.” The German product Wobe-Mugos, made by Wobenzym’s manufacturer, has orphan drug status in the United States for multiple myeloma because it prolongs survival. The Orphan Drug Act of 1983 allows the marketing of drugs used to treat rare diseases, for which there is little potential for profit, even if they have not been tested according to U.S. Food and Drug Administration protocols. FDA requirements are waived for these drugs. Wobe-Mugos contains concentrated trypsin, chymotrypsin, and papain. The usual comparison is that one Wobe-Mugos tablet equals three or four Wobenzym tablets.
Enzyme Dosage for Dogs
For effective systemic oral enzyme therapy, enzymes should be taken at least 45 minutes to one hour before meals or at least one to two hours after. When adapting over-the-counter enzyme products for canine use, consider your dog’s weight. Label directions are appropriate for a 100-pound human, so adjust accordingly. Considering the well-documented safety of enzyme products (note cautions below before using), proportions can be approximate. For dogs over 80 pounds, the human dose is likely to be effective and well tolerated. For dogs weighing 50 pounds, cut dosage in half; for those weighing 25 pounds, use 1/4 the recommended amount. Most product labels list a maintenance dose for everyday use. Labels on single-ingredient products like bromelain and pancreatin give dosages for use with food. In addition to using these enzymes with food, the same dosage twice or three times per day between meals is appropriate for systemic therapy. Experts disagree as to whether enteric-coated tablets taken between meals work better than capsules; uncoated pancreatin and bromelain have been shown to be effective by themselves. Some dog owners use all three strategies – enzymes with food, uncoated enzymes between meals, and enteric-coated enzymes between meals – to be sure their dogs receive all the support they need, especially while recovering from a serious illness or injury.
Cautions and Side Effects
Oral enzyme products can be problematic for any dog that is allergic to beef, pork, papaya, pineapple, Aspergillus oryzae, or other food-source ingredients. If your dog has specific allergies, check product labels and contact manufacturers to verify ingredients and their sources. Many dogs with seasonal allergies and food sensitivities have improved as a result of taking enzymes both with food and between meals, but it’s a good idea to use a small first dose and check for adverse reactions before increasing to therapeutic levels. Dogs with bleeding disorders should not take systemic oral enzymes because they reduce clotting and thin the blood. For the same reason, large doses are not recommended immediately before surgery. Those whose dogs have a serious illness, such as liver disease, or are pregnant or nursing should consult a veterinarian before giving enzymes between meals. Enzymes given with food at recommended maintenance doses are usually safe for dogs with clotting disorders and other serious illnesses because they interact with the body the same way that enzymes in raw food do. Follow label directions and, if in doubt, consult a holistic veterinarian. In some cases, human patients taking very high doses of systemic oral enzymes have developed a buildup of uric acid, a waste product from protein breakdown, in the urine or blood. Allergic reactions, bleeding disorders, and uric acid buildup are rare side effects. More common are temporary reactions that disappear when the therapy is discontinued or the dosage is reduced, including minor changes in the patient’s stool and/or gastrointestinal disturbances such as flatulence, nausea, diarrhea, or a feeling of fullness. Enteric-coated capsules should be swallowed whole, not chewed. Powders, such as Prozyme or bromelain, can be mixed with a small amount of water and given between meals, but it’s usually easier to dose a dog with tablets or capsules. If your dog is impossible to pill, give tablets or capsules with the smallest amount of fat-free, protein-free food your dog will swallow, such as a grape or a teaspoon of grated carrot. For best results, try to get your dog to drink a few ounces of water with each dose. Refrain from giving snacks or training treats within an hour of using systemic oral enzymes. Enzymes are easily damaged by heat. For example, bromelain powder retains its enzyme activity for 10 years or more if refrigerated, but storage near a hot oven or sunny window can inactivate it in just a few hours. Always store enzyme products in a cool, dry location.
Treating Specific Conditions with Enzymes
Systemic oral enzyme therapy has a general or tonic effect that improves conditions throughout the body, so instead of treating a single problem or illness, it addresses several. A dog with heart disease, arthritis, infected gums, and an ear hematoma is likely to improve in all of these areas, not just one. In fact, our hypothetical patient will probably experience improved digestion, faster wound healing, brighter eyes, and a calmer, more focused personality, especially if the therapy is continued for several months. To treat acute injuries, sprains, bruises, contusions, hematomas, pulled muscles, abrasions, broken bones, and burns, give large quantities between meals, such as up to 10 times the maintenance dose several times per day for several days. The more severe the injury, the more enzymes the body can utilize. Watch your dog’s reaction, and if digestive disturbances or diarrhea result, reduce the dosage. In general, frequent, small doses are more effective than single large ones, so continue giving enzymes throughout the day. Healing will occur as the injury is cleared of damaged tissue, congestion, and debris. When there is noticeable improvement, gradually reduce the dosage to maintenance levels. For chronic joint conditions such as arthritis, tendinitis, and hip or elbow dysplasia, give two to four times the maintenance dose two or three times per day. Conditions that develop slowly over time take longer to clear than sudden injuries. When the animal shows significant improvement, gradually switch to the recommended maintenance dose and continue indefinitely. Switch back to more frequent and/or larger doses if symptoms recur. Respiratory problems, seasonal allergies, and sinus infections often respond to systemic oral enzymes. If the maintenance dose is used, give it twice as often as recommended, or increase the dosage as well as frequency. For acute infections, such as bronchitis, use larger doses; for chronic allergies, continue the maintenance dose for several months. Urinary tract infections, prostate inflammation, intestinal inflammation (ulcerative colitis and related disorders), tooth and gum infections, and circulatory disorders can be improved with enzymes. As explained above, give large, more frequent doses for acute infections until they clear; treat chronic conditions with the recommended maintenance dose (or, until symptoms improve, give it twice or three times as often as the product label recommends), and continue indefinitely. Dogs recover quickly from spaying, neutering, oral surgery, elective surgery, and emergency surgery with the help of enzyme supplements. Taken for a month or more before the operation, maintenance doses help prepare the body for healing. Because enzymes thin the blood and help prevent clotting, some experts warn against using enzyme supplements for 7 to 10 days before and after surgery. Others suggest using the maintenance dose until a day or two before surgery, then resuming it a day or two after. Still others recommend using systemic oral enzymes without interruption. Discontinuing oral enzymes reduces the risk of hemorrhage, but it increases the likelihood of swelling, pain, and other conditions that enzymes help prevent. For best results, consult a holistic veterinarian and consider the patient’s physical condition, medical history, and type of surgery. (As noted, dogs with clotting disorders should not take enzymes between meals.) When danger of hemorrhage has passed, large doses can be given to speed healing and prevent infection, swelling, pain, excessive scarring, and postsurgical complications. The dosages for postsurgical care are the same as for trauma injuries. In addition, enzyme powders can be mixed with water to form a paste that can be applied topically to wounds, cuts, hematomas, burns, abrasions, hot spots, and other irritations. Papain, the enzyme used in meat tenderizers, is widely used as a treatment for insect stings. To neutralize insect venom, mix papain (or a meat tenderizer containing it) with a small amount of water, apply as a poultice, and hold in place as long as possible. For dogs with tooth and gum infections, mix bromelain, Prozyme, or a similar enzyme powder with just enough water to form a thin paste and apply it with a fingertip, small piece of gauze, or canine toothbrush. If touching the teeth or gums causes pain, dilute the paste with enough water to make a liquid and squirt it into the sides of the dog’s mouth with an eyedropper or ear syringe. Enzyme pastes and washes should be applied several times a day for best results. Like systemic oral enzyme therapy, topical application can be combined with other healthcare products and therapies, enhancing their results. It is impossible to predict how quickly a patient will respond to systemic oral enzyme therapy, for much depends on individual variables such as height, weight, age, general health, dietary patterns, and the severity of symptoms. However, people who use the supplements say that most bruises and injuries begin to respond within a day or two, most painful inflammatory conditions begin to improve within a week, and most auto-immune disorders, such lupus, begin to respond within three months of daily supplementation. In some chronic conditions, symptoms improve, grow worse, and improve again. According to Dr. Anthony Cichoke in The Complete Book of Enzyme Therapy, “When the condition is worse or when you notice an exacerbation of symptoms, it’s important to increase the dose.”
Blessing in Disguise
Even though Dee took a maintenance dose of Wobenzym, which is substantially smaller than the therapeutic dose recommended for trauma injuries in dogs her size, her recovery was dramatic. “Dee’s injury was a blessing in disguise,” says Kathy Signorile. “If it hadn’t happened, we would never have known about enzyme therapy. Now my husband and I are taking Wobenzym every day, and we feel better, too. Dee’s stamina keeps increasing, her muscle tone has improved, she’s more youthful, and her energy is amazing – it’s like she fell into the fountain of youth. Just a few months ago, Bill and I were asking ourselves difficult questions about whether Dee would ever recover and what a permanent disability would mean to the quality of her life. We prayed for the tiniest bit of improvement, any little sign of healing. We never imagined that a few weeks later, she would be healthier than she’s been for years.
CJ Puotinen is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats. Both books describe balanced, raw, natural diets. She is a frequent contributor to WDJ.
The first time I ever noticed booties for dogs advertised in my pet supply catalogs, I laughed out loud. How frou-frou can you get?
I have since realized that there are some very legitimate purposes for dog boots, and have revised my opinion of their usefulness. In fact, the dog boot industry is a highly specialized one, with different styles of boots produced for different purposes.
There are winter boots to insulate your dog’s feet from cold, damp, ice, snow, and salt; summer boots to shield your pup’s paws from the heat of pavement and asphalt, and hiking boots to protect him from the dangers of sharp rock, brambles, burrs, cacti, and foxtails. They can be used to give a tentative dog traction on slippery floors, to prevent scratches on hardwood floors and snags on carpets, and to deter digging. They can prevent chewing and licking of sores, bandages and medications on the dog’s feet. There are even rubber boots that purport to keep your dog’s feet dry in rainy weather.
The biggest dog boot challenge is keeping the little devils on their feet. Dogs don’t have much in the way of ankles, and a well-fitted boot must hug the ankle joint tightly without rubbing, constricting blood flow, or annoying the dog.
The best boots offer a wide selection of sizes to allow for a good fit. The boot should fit fairly snugly while still providing ample room for the dog’s foot. It should slip onto the dog’s foot with relative ease, not slip off until you want it to, and be constructed of materials that are soft enough to conform to the shape of the foot and be comfortable for the dog, yet sturdy enough to stand up to the rigors of vigorous hiking.
Price is always of interest to the cost-conscious dog owner, who can usually find ways to spend any extra cash on new dog toys and more treats. This is one category of product where it doesn’t pay to skimp. For the most part, the cheaper brands of boots are just that – cheap.
The Problem(s) With Dog Boot Sizes
Various companies gauge their boot sizes differently. Some measure from the heel of the pad to the tip of the toe, others include the toenail length in the size (probably a more appropriate measure, since not accounting for the nail could put excess pressure on the toes). A few brands measure size by the dog’s weight – in our opinion an inaccurate system of measurement, since a dog’s weight can vary although his foot size does not.
Anyone who has ever struggled to put shoes on a baby (it’s pointless, but fashionable!) will immediately understand the challenge inherent in putting boots on dogs: They don’t have a clue that a little pushing down movement with their feet would make your job a million times easier. Fortunately, with a little practice, you get better at getting the boots on quickly. Just watch out for those dewclaws, if your dog has them.
Dogs are unaccustomed to having something attached to their feet, so don’t be alarmed if your canine pal acts like his legs are broken when you first try his boots on him. It can be amusing to watch your dog try to walk without putting his feet down. One of our test dogs tried to take several steps while holding both hind legs off the ground. (It didn’t work.)
Your dog should quickly adapt to the strangeness of shoes on his feet and begin to walk normally again. Be sure to administer plenty of treats when you put boots on paws so your dog learns to happily anticipate their application. If he always wears his boots when he goes for a hike, they will become a reliable predictor of great times, and he will get as excited about seeing them in your hand as he does his leash.
When you first go out with boots on your dog, keep him with you on leash. You may have to readjust the boot straps a couple of times until you get them snug enough to stay on. If Ranger loses a boot when he is deep in the woods you’re not likely to find it again!
Note: Dogs cool themselves by perspiring through their pads. If you are using boots in warm weather, be sure to take breaks and remove the boots from time to time to prevent overheating.
We’ve rated several dog boots on our 0-4 Paws scale based on our observations and preferences. The descriptions should help you determine which product would be the best choice for your dog.
The Absolute Best Dog Boots You Can Buy
We’ll start with our favorites. Muttluks are the Mercedes of the dog boot world and our top choice for winter boots. They exhibit extremely high durability. The sole of the boot is made of water- and salt-resistant leather that stands up well to the elements. The entire boot is stitched with heavy-duty industrial nylon thread, and the Velcro fastener is backed with silver reflective material for nighttime safety and visibility. The larger sizes have a sturdy leather toe-protector (the smaller sizes have Cordura toe-protectors), and the body of the boot is made of soft, heavyweight fleece to cushion the dog’s ankle from the Velcro strap.
Muttluks are available in eight different sizes, from Itty Bitty (smaller than 1.5″ foot) to XXL (4.75″ to 5″). The materials are soft and flex easily with the motion of the ankle. The self-tightening fastening system allows for uniform distribution of pressure around the ankle as well as quick and easy fastening and tightening. The comfortable stretchy leg cuff can be pulled up to protect long legs, or folded down for stubby ones. You can also roll the cuff down over the Velcro strap for extra security. This is the only boot we tested that was at absolutely no risk of falling off.
However, because these boots are made of soft, stretchy materials that fit the foot snugly, and because they are taller than all of the other boots we examined, they are a little harder to put on than some of the other brands. You must hold your dog’s leg while you stretch the elastic cuff and pull it over the foot. It may take some positive reinforcement to get your dog to buy into the process, especially if he is sensitive about having his feet handled.
On the plus side, these boots look just great – the only ones that appear to be made well enough to stand up to serious, long-term use. They are pricey- ranging from $48 to $56 depending on the size, but in our opinion they are well worth it!
The Dog Boot Brands That Aren’t So Great
All of the products in this group are good quality products and reasonable purchases – they just don’t quite measure up to the standard set by the Muttluk. Some are made better, but don’t fit as well. Some have an advantageous design, but aren’t made that well. None of these products puts it all together as well as Muttluk.
Take, for instance, the Velcro Dog Shoes made by Duke’s Dog Fashions of Beaverton, Oregon. Made of tough, flexible Cordura nylon, these boots are well made, but don’t offer as much warmth or insulation as the products designed expressly for extremes of heat or cold. The Cordura material has less give than the fleece used by several other boot makers, and the fit is not as snug or as comfortable. These boots would nominally protect a dog’s feet from mud or rocky terrain, say, but would not offer much in the way of warmth, water-resistance, or traction.
In addition to these shortcomings, the product is available in four sizes only, which limits the accuracy of the fit, and is measured by weight – the least desirable of the measurement methods – up to a maximum of 150 pounds.
In the plus column, the boots appear to stay on reasonably well in the proper sole-down position. Generally, they required only one adjustment after a few minutes of walking to stay securely on the dog. Like many of the boots we found, they are relatively short, which helps them slip onto the dogs’ feet with ease (but may make it easier for them to come off). The simple Velcro strap pulled tight at the ankle and fastened easily. They are also attractive, and available in two-tone colors of red and blue or navy and Kelly green.
As the name suggests, Polar Paws are made to provide protection against cold weather conditions. Made by The Original Polar Paws of Tempe, Arizona, these boots feature a rubberized sole for water-resistance and a slight traction advantage on snow and ice, a Cordura reinforced toe, and a medium-weight soft fleece body. The Velcro fastener features a helpful strap guide on the back of the boot to hold it in place.
Polar Paws are available in six sizes, from Tiny (.75″ to 1.5″) to XL (3.75″ to 4″), and, like all of the short boots, slip onto a dog’s feet easily. The boots seem to flex easily with movement of the dog’s feet, and stay in the correct position, soles down. The boots are attractive, but are available only in red with black toes.
The bad news? These boots didn’t stay on all that well; we had to readjust and tighten the straps after just a few minutes of walking. Also, we found what could be an annoying problem for the dog: In one place, where the inner seam of the boot concludes, the fabric has been melted (in the way that many synthetic fabrics must be cauterized to keep them from fraying) into a sharp edge. This rough knob is above the Velcro tightening strap, so it’s not being forced against the dog’s leg, but we would expect it to rub. This might not be a problem on short walks, but it could definitely cause discomfort on a long walk.
Polar Paws are priced moderately high at $17.95 for all sizes. Though this is high compared to some of the other products we examined, it is not unreasonable considering the quality of the materials used.
Initially, we had less enthusiasm for Cool Paws, the hot-weather version of Polar Paws. (The maker of Cool Paws is listed on the label as The Original Cool Paws; like The Original Polar Paws, this company is also of Tempe, Arizona, so we’re assuming it’s one and the same, and goes by both names.) Cool Paws are made of slightly lighter weight Cordura, in a slightly looser weave. Although the fabric is undoubtedly cooler in hot weather, we found it more likely to snag. Even the package insert warned against using the product in rocky terrain, and keeping the dog’s nails trimmed to prevent puncture of the fabric.
However, it was only after, as instructed, we had soaked the boots in water for several hours that we were able to appreciate the product’s main selling point: The addition of water-absorbing gel beads in between layers of the double sole. The beads swell with water when soaked, then release water over time in the same cooling evaporation action used in other canine cooling products.
Prior to soaking, it seemed to us that the amount of gel beads used in the boots is minimal. We even cut one boot apart so we could examine the gel pack, and we were unimpressed with the tiny amount of beads. But then we took the soaked boots out of the bucket of water we had thrown them in – Wow! Those beads really do swell, forming a cool, cushioned pad under the dog’s feet. Amazingly, the beads don’t squish or ooze water; they simply evaporate and shrink over time as they dry.
Obviously, you wouldn’t use Cool Paws in cool or cold conditions; they are designed specifically for use in hot weather. We don’t know whether there is any research that indicates that cooling pads on a hot dog’s feet really do contribute to lowering or maintaining their body temperature but we can say this: They would definitely protect a dog from burning his feet on hot pavement, sand, or other hot surfaces.
Cool Paws slip onto the foot easily, and the boots are attractive. They are available only in blue with black toe.
After looking at the careful workmanship that went into the preceding products, the first glance at the Nylon Dog Boots made by Scott Pet Products, of Rockville, Indiana (and sold by Valley Vet Supply/Direct Pet Superstore), was a bit of a shock. This is partly because of the product’s simplistic design; the boot is nothing more than a Cordura nylon mitten with a Velcro strap. But the crude look of the product comes from a reversed seam on the upper part of the boot. Such a visible ragged edge and quadruple-sewn seam looks crude. Actually, it makes sense, from the standpoint of the dog whose foot and ankle end up inside that boot. The reversal of the seam also forms a unique pleat at the back of the boot that allows the excess material to fold rather than gather or bunch. It’s an unattractive but comfortable solution to the problem of a seam that could otherwise rub the dog’s leg.
In terms of durability, we have some more concerns. The boots are made of a good quality Cordura fabric (the soles consist of two layers), but the toes are not reinforced. These boots wouldn’t last forever, and they’d provide only a minimum of protection from the elements. We’d expect a product that is targeted toward hunting dogs (they come only in bright orange and only in four sizes) to be tougher.
On the other hand, the boots slipped on easily, and stayed on well if snugly fastened. At $14.25 for all sizes, it’s not a bad buy.
These Boots Aren’t Recommended for Your Dog
The products that we rated with just one Paw are definitely of lesser quality. Their lower prices are attractive, but they just are not durable enough to be considered real hiking boots – they are more like slippers. They might be appropriate for short trips to the backyard, or to prevent licking of wounds or medications on feet. But they really can’t be considered protection from any real weather or rough footing.
Take, for example, the Arctic Fleece Boots made by Ethical Products of Newark, New Jersey and sold by J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies. What the maker calls “Arctic Fleece” is neither; the single-layered material feels more like felt. The strap is elastic (read, prone to stretching and wearing out), with a small square of Velcro sewn onto it. A small circle of vinyl material is sewn onto the bottoms to provide what the maker calls “non-skid” soles – but the vinyl is smooth and could not provide traction. In addition, the boots do not stay in position – the “sole” ends up on top of dog’s foot. Not that it matters; this soft material couldn’t be uncomfortable for the dog in any position.
The Arctic Fleece Boots are available in five sizes by weight, from Extra Small (under 20 pounds) to Extra Large (over 60 pounds). For $5, you get what you pay for.
In another case of a badly named product made by Ethical Products, we found the Waterproof Quilted Boots to be neither, either. The material is “quilted” in only the most generous sense; the outer layer of lightweight nylon fabric is stitched with a quilted pattern, but it doesn’t hold any other layers together. The inner layer is a nylon material so thin that our test dog’s nails caused “runs” from just a few steps around the house. As with the felt boots described above, a circular patch of vinyl (in this case, vinyl with a slight texture) is sewn on the bottom, but no matter; the boots do not stay in position, and the soles generally end up on top of the dog’s feet.
Is there anything nice to say? The synthetic fleece lining around ankles is a nice gesture toward comfort, and the Velcro strap appears appropriately long. The boots slip on easily, and the material is soft. They are available in five sizes, from Extra Small (under 20 pounds) to Extra Large (over 60 pounds). The boots are cute (too cute?), available in red or blue, and cheap at $7.
We didn’t have much use for Pawtectors, either. Made by Pedigree Perfection of Tamarac, Florida and sold by Valley Vet Supply, they are unlike any other boots we saw – perhaps for a reason.
The material Pawtectors are made from is a very unusual composite; it’s a flexible, fully sealed rubberized material on the outside that is soft and fuzzy on the inside. We’ve seen heavy-duty rubber kitchen gloves made of similar material. The top and bottom of the boots are identical; in fact, the packaging suggests turning the boots around when one side gets worn out. It seems durable enough, but it also seems like a dog would get overheated in these boots; there is no breathability to the material.
Also, the unattached Velcro strap is prone to getting misplaced. The rubberized sheath bends with the dog’s motion but doesn’t mold to fit the foot well – there is too much excess material even when boot is fitted according to size chart. And finally, the boots fell off our test dogs several times.
Pawtectors are available in five sizes, from XS (1.75″) to XL (3.75″). They slip on easily, and are available in black or red. At $17 to $22, depending on size, they are no bargain.
But our absolute scorn is reserved for the boots made by Four Paws Products Ltd. of Hauppauge, New York. Modeled on “people” boots, this product hardly fits a dog’s foot and ankle anatomy and the strap cannot be tightened enough to stay on. They are essentially “dress up” boots – something you would put on a doll-like dog you hold in your arms. The boots are available in five sizes, XS (1.5″) to XL (3.5″), and available in red or black. The price is low, but entirely too high for a product that is totally useless.
Caring guardians of companion canines often wonder whether one form of commercially prepared food – kibble or canned – is better than the other. The truth is, both types of food have relative advantages and disadvantages in terms of palatability, digestibility, and necessity for preservatives or other chemical additives.
While they generally meet the same chemical composition standards in terms of vitamins, minerals, and amino acids, these types of food provide very different nutritional value. Canned foods contain more protein and fat than dry foods, and they typically contain a greater percentage of animal-based ingredients than dry foods (see sidebar: “Comparing Apples to Apples: The Dry Matter Comparison,” next page). There is a limit – about 50 percent – to the amount of animal-based products that dry foods can contain; the machinery that mixes and extrudes kibble “gums up” if less than half of the dry food ingredients are carbohydrates (cereal grains like corn or starches such as potatoes).
By and large, canned foods contain higher quality protein ingredients than dry foods. Generally, the lesser quality pet food ingredients, such as processed and rendered products such as meat by-products, meat and bone meals, and animal digests, are routed toward dry food production lines, which require lower-fat, lower-moisture ingredients for extrusion or baking.
More whole ingredients, such as meat and poultry appear at the top of the list in canned foods, because they are high in natural moisture content. Lower-quality canned foods utilize “meat by-products,” which contain no muscle meat, but consist of organs such as intestines, spleens and lungs, and other parts of the carcass that are undesirable or unfit for human consumption. Chicken or poultry by-products may contain a little bit of muscle meat, but are still mostly “guts.”
Meat or poultry “meals,” which are produced by rendering, are widely utilized in dry foods, but are not generally used in canned foods. The raw starting material is ground to a mushy consistency by a huge auger. Then it is cooked for several hours. When the mixture is cooled, the fat (tallow) rises to the top and is skimmed off and routed, according to its composition, for edible products like animal feed, or industrial, cosmetic or agricultural uses. The remaining material is mostly protein and water. When the water is removed, a dry, powdery, mostly protein “meal” is left.
Meal that is identified solely as “chicken meal,” “beef meal,” or “lamb meal” is generally a higher quality product; it is supposed to contain only the muscle meat (which may include non-skeletal muscles such as the esophagus or diaphragm) of the animal. When a meal gets more generic by name, such as “meat meal” or “meat and bone meal,” you’re likely dealing with very low-quality ingredients.
Both dry foods and canned foods are cooked at high temperatures, which kill bacteria and other pathogens. While all the types of cooking employed in the production of pet food alter the proteins and destroy the enzymes in the meat-based ingredients, cooking actually makes the grains and starches more digestible. (All cooking methods cause the proteins in meats and meat by-products to lose their original molecular shape; this is called “denaturing.” This protein alteration is why meat changes color from red to brown when it’s cooked. Enzymes – special proteins that are used by the body to regulate its chemical and metabolic reactions – tend to be very fragile and are destroyed even in the lower temperature ranges used for baking.)
Preservatives
One of the most notable differences between canned and dry foods is the use of preservatives, which must be used liberally in dry foods (but are not generally added to canned foods) to combat the ill effects of exposure to oxygen. The interaction of oxygen with fat – known as oxidation – causes rancidity. Rancid fat not only smells bad and can put a dog off his food, but also can make a dog sick if he eats it. Fats intended for use in dog food are almost always preserved with antioxidants by the supplier before they are even shipped to the manufacturer, and food makers are required to list these antioxidants on the food label. Again, dry foods require the use of a greater quantity of preservatives because of the need for stability in a wide range of storage conditions.
Preservatives are also used to retard the growth of microbes like bacteria. While extruded foods are relatively “sterile” after departing from the high temperature and pressure environment of the screws, they may be re-contaminated during the drying process, or by bacteria lurking in the sprayed-on coating materials. Mold spores, which are ubiquitous in the air, can also sneak into the bag with the food. Preservatives also help prevent deterioration of vitamins and other nutrients.
NOTE: We’ll be discussing more about natural and artificial preservatives and “date of manufacture” labeling requirements in the next issue of WDJ.
How canned foods are made
The process of canning was devised in 1809, when a clever Frenchman was hired to provide his government’s troops with preserved food for their campaigns. The goal was, and still is, to sterilize the food to prevent spoilage. Today, dog food is canned through a process similar to the one your grandma employed to “put up” peaches and other garden produce, but on a very large scale!
First, fresh or frozen meat and/or by-products are ground to a fine texture and sent to a cooker/mixer. There, the ground meat is mixed with the grain or starchy vegetable ingredients (like potatoes or peas), vitamins, minerals, additives like anti-caking agents and stabilizers, and water.
This mixture is heated to the specific temperature necessary for producing the desired texture, which varies according to the ingredients. Mixtures containing mainly carbohydrates must be cooked at high temperatures to “gelatinize” the carbohydrates, while lower temperatures can be used when there is more animal tissue in the mixture.
Canned foods typically contain less grain than dry foods, so different combinations of time, temperature, pH, and vegetable gums are used to gel and thicken the food. “Nuggets,” “slices” and other shapes are molded from either natural tissues or, more commonly, from texturized plant proteins. Some foods contain vegetables like carrots and peas that will appeal to the consumer who opens the can (though not necessarily to the dog). These may be real veggies, or artificially colored and shaped ones.
After cooking, the mixture is pumped to a heated storage reservoir above the filler/seamer machine, which fills 300 cans (or more) a minute, puts on the lid and seals the seams. If the mixture was initially cooked at low temperatures, steam must be injected to displace the air to create a vacuum. Hotter mixtures create their own steam.
After the cans are sealed, they are sterilized in a “retort,” which raises the temperature enough to kill pathogenic bacteria, specifically Clostridium botulinum, which causes botulism, a particularly nasty form of food poisoning. Once the cans are cooled in the last compartment of the retort, they are stamped on their sides and/or bottoms with codes specifying the date and time of production. Finally, they are scanned for distortion (which would cause automatic rejection), labeled, and packed in cases for shipment.
Canned advantages
The high moisture content of canned food may be helpful for dogs with cystitis or kidney disease. If you are tempted to mimic this by simply adding water to the dry food – don’t! Dry foods commonly have bacteria on the surface that would love a warm, wet environment to grow in. Moistened dry food that sits out for a couple of hours can make a dog very sick.
If your dog is chubby, you might want to add some canned food to her ration. Canned food may fill her up and leave her more satisfied, yet she would be consuming far fewer calories than if she were eating only dry food. (Choose a low-fat canned food, however, because many canned foods are also considerably higher in fat than dry food.)
Canned food is usually more palatable than dry, and may be more successful in tempting a sick or fussy dog to eat.
How dry food is made
Most dry dog foods start with ground yellow corn or similar cereal grain, and a meat or rendered product such as poultry by-product meal, which are blended to make a dough. Various additives such as gums, emulsifiers, stabilizers, colorings, and flavors may be added at this point. The dough is then put through an “extruder,” a long tubular machine with an internal screw that moves the dough along its length.
There are many kinds of extruders, which can be used for everything from plastics to sausage. Commonly, dog food is made in a single or twin-screw extruder. Depending on the content and desired texture, parts of the extruder may cook the product as it moves along. Generally, steam heat and pressure are used to push the dough. Newer extruders use very high heat for very short periods of time to cook the product.
At the end of the extruder, the dough is squeezed out through the small openings of the die, much like a cake decorating tip. Immediately outside the opening, a rapidly whirling set of blades slices off tiny pieces of the dough, which “puffs” as it exits the pressurized extruder. The shape of the die determines the shape of the kibble. Extruders are limited in their ability to handle wet or greasy materials. The need for a firm, doughy consistency is one reason dry foods contain a large proportion of starch or cereal grains, such as potato, wheat or corn.
After the product comes out of the extruder, it must be dried. There are vertical, horizontal, belt, and carousel type dryers. Each has its advantages; vertical dryers take up less floor space, while some carousel dryers provide more even heating. The moisture content is carefully controlled because it affects the stability and palatability of the product. After being cooled in the latter stages of the dryer, most extruded products are sprayed or dusted with fats, digests, or other flavorings (see WDJ’s article about palatants, “He Likes It! Hey Mikey!,” November 2000).
Finally, the food is bagged, sealed, and put on pallets for shipping. Most manufacturers still use paper bags with a relatively impervious liner to keep air and dampness out, and oils and flavors in. A few products are now bagged in Mylar, which has long been popular for treats.
I like mine dry
Dry food is more convenient and less messy than canned food. It is much more economical, and may be the only realistic option when feeding big dogs, lots of dogs, or lots of big dogs! It is easier to transport for dogs who travel. It can be left out, or stored in automatic feeders, without getting dry and crusty, and does not require refrigeration for leftovers. The higher fiber content of dry foods may be advantageous for diabetic dogs because it moderates food absorption, thus keeping blood sugar more stable.
-By Jean Hofve, DVM
Dr. Jean Hofve is the Companion Animal Program Coordinator for the Animal Protection Institute, located in Sacramento, California.
Romeo’s owners live in an upper unit condominium, so they sat up and took notice when the little white dog began demanding numerous daily trips outside to urinate. Romeo’s appetite changed as well. He had always liked his food, but suddenly he was ravenous, eating every bit of his meals and still wanting more. Despite his avid appetite, he was losing weight. A trip to the veterinarian was definitely in order. After seeing the results of Romeo’s blood test and urinalysis, the veterinarian delivered the bad news: Romeo had diabetes.
Diabetes is a common and serious problem in pets. Formally known as diabetes mellitus (the sweet sickness), it’s a disorder of the pancreas gland. The pancreas produces a hormone called insulin, whose purpose is to drive nutrients, specifically glucose, or blood sugar, into the cells. It’s the body’s most important fuel molecule.
When the body doesn’t have enough insulin, glucose builds up in the bloodstream, a condition called hyperglycemia (high blood sugar). Having no place else to go, the excess glucose spills over into the urine, resulting in excessive urination. Because their bodies are losing so much water, diabetic dogs compensate by drinking a lot, which in turn leads to more frequent urination.
Even when dogs eat more, the cells aren’t getting the nutrients they need to function, so diabetic dogs lose weight and become weak. “Basically, the system can’t run without proper fuel, and the fuel isn’t being made available to it,” says William Pollak, DVM, of Fairfield Animal Hospital in Fairfield, Iowa.
Which dogs are at risk?
The cause of diabetes onset is unknown, but contributory factors include genetic predisposition, infection, insulin-antagonistic diseases and drugs, immune-mediated disease, and inflammation of the pancreas.
Breeds with a high incidence of diabetes include Golden Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs, Keeshonden, and Poodles, but any breed or mix can develop the disease. It’s seen more commonly in females than males and usually develops at six to nine years of age. Obese dogs and dogs that have had recurrent bouts of pancreatitis seem most prone to the disease, says Ellen Paul, DVM, of Lipton Animal Hospital in Urbana, Illinois. Long-term treatment with corticosteroids can also predispose a dog to diabetes.
Alternative explanations
Some holistic veterinarians offer other possible explanations for diabetes onset in dogs, but these reasons are controversial. Practitioners who advocate meat-based homemade diets for dogs often blame the presence of processed, high-carbohydrate foods in doggie dinner dishes. “I feel that commercial, processed, grain-based diets contain far more carbohydrates than are appropriate for the well-being of our dogs,” Dr. Pollak says.
Michele Yasson, DVM, who has an international homeopathic practice based in Rosendale, New York, says that when dogs are fed commercial foods instead of home-prepared diets, the result is a degree of malnourishment, creating stress for the body to cope with.
Dr. Yasson also believes that vaccinations play a role as well. “Vaccines stress the physiology in such a way that you wind up with chronic abnormalities in physiology,” she says. “The extra stress of that tends to lead to all sorts of chronic disease, including diabetes.”
Dr. Pollak suggests that diabetes may also be an allergic phenomenon. “When you feed a processed diet, the biological system isn’t functioning on the quality octane fuel that it was designed to function on, so you get abnormal metabolic processes. You get excessive heat in the body because of the abnormal breakdown, the rate of the breakdown as well as what’s being broken down,” he says. “The system is agitated. It doesn’t work right, so what happens is that the system starts attacking itself.”
Treatments
Diabetes cannot be cured, per se, but it can be managed successfully and sometimes even reversed if detected and treated early enough. Conventionally, diabetes is managed with once or twice daily insulin injections, a high fiber diet, and regulation of the dog’s mealtimes. Exercise is important as well, because it leads to weight loss, which can improve a diabetic animal’s condition.
Among the alternative therapies that can affect the disease’s progress are acupuncture, traditional Chinese herbal remedies, and homeopathy. “Each dog is different, so working with an experienced veterinarian is important,” Dr. Paul says.
Usually, the first step in bringing diabetes under control is to start the dog on daily insulin injections. Insulin types include a combination of beef and pork insulin, pork insulin, or synthetic human insulin, all of which are effective in dogs. It’s scary to think of giving a dog an injection, but the technique is easily learned after a little practice on a thin-skinned orange. Your veterinarian will show you how to prepare the syringe and inject the insulin. Insulin injections are given subcutaneously, meaning under the skin, and are much less painful than intramuscular injections. Some dogs don’t even notice them after a while, especially if they’re rewarded with a meal immediately afterward.
While holistic veterinarians start their patients on insulin if necessary, they prefer to manage without it if possible. Instead, a change in diet is mandated. “I introduce a raw diet,” Dr. Pollak says, “but I do whatever I have to do to stabilize them and maintain adequate, normal levels of blood sugar. If you get it early enough, the sugar levels will come down with less and less insulin, and many times you can get them off the insulin.”
Dr. Paul prefers a homemade diet for all pets. “A diabetic needs to have complex carbohydrates,” she says, “and brown rice is a good choice. I would add some psyllium for extra fiber. Fiber helps to slow down the digestion and absorption of foods, preventing rapid peaks in blood glucose levels. I also advise a pancreas glandular supplement.”
On the other hand, Dr. Yasson, who starts treatment with classical homeopathy, prefers complementing the homeopathy with a high-protein diet. “A high-fiber diet is normal and appropriate for people with diabetes, but for carnivores such as dogs I find that a high-protein diet with raw meat serves very well,” she says. Whatever the diet, dogs with this disease need two or three equal-size meals each day, spaced out at intervals determined by your veterinarian.
Supplements are also important. “I use chromium, a good multivitamin, and essential fatty acids (EFAs),” Dr. Yasson says. “The EFAs affect the metabolism of hormones and the glandular system. I find that the EFA that usually makes the most difference in my cases is flax oil-based, but a good balanced fatty acid will work as well.”
Blood sugar tests
If diabetes is to be brought under control, the urine and blood must be monitored regularly for sugar levels. “You want to give the least amount of insulin that results in just a trace amount of sugar in the urine,” Dr. Pollak says. At-home urine testing is easy with dipsticks available from your veterinarian or a drugstore. To collect the urine, Dr. Pollak says, simply take a wire coat hanger, open it up, and bend the end. Stick a paper cup on the bottom, and as the dog urinates, place the cup beneath the stream. Your dog may look at you as if you’re crazy the first time you do this, but it’s a generally successful method of collecting urine.
Glucose levels should be checked on a regular basis as well to make sure the insulin dosage is appropriate, Dr. Paul says. This is especially important during the first stages of treatment, when the proper insulin level has yet to be determined. Each dog is an individual, and changes in dosage or type of insulin are often necessary to bring the disease under control.
The test for blood sugar levels is called a blood glucose curve. This involves a day at the veterinary clinic for a diabetic dog. Over a period of 12 to 24 hours, blood is drawn at given intervals to see when the blood sugar peaks and decreases. This allows the veterinarian to better determine the amount of insulin given and the timing of the injections.
“If it is difficult to regulate his insulin level, have him checked for Cushing’s disease,” Dr. Paul advises. She also recommends regular blood tests at least every six months to check for other conditions that could aggravate the diabetes. Common complications of canine diabetes that can be identified with the aid of a blood panel include liver disease and infections.
Regular urine cultures are important as well, Dr. Paul says. “Diabetic dogs are prone to bladder infections, so urine cultures should be done to check for them. Dogs may not show signs of bladder infections, and a urinalysis may look normal. Cranberry supplements may help to control bladder infections,” she says.
Schedule
One of the most important aspects of managing diabetes is keeping the dog on a regular schedule for feeding, exercise, and insulin injections. Meals and insulin injections should be given at the same time every day.
If it’s difficult to be at home in time for the evening meal, the purchase of timed feeders, which can be set to open at the appropriate hour, can solve the problem. For dogs on raw diets, such feeders are available with refrigerated compartments to keep food fresh.
“Regularity in feeding is very important in taking the workload off the system,” Dr. Pollak says. “The biological system metabolically is able to settle down and create a less agitated state, and in that clear-functioning state it’s able to maintain itself at a higher level of wellness, the result being that the disease symptoms will subside.”
While diabetes is a serious condition, it’s important to approach it with the idea that there is hope, Dr. Yasson says. “Not every case is curable, but I find that although there are some cases where you can really get stumped, the majority are relatively simple and straightforward to treat. If people are willing to do the little bit of work that’s necessary with supplements and diet and so forth, treatment can be very successful.”
-By Kim Campbell Thornton
Kim Campbell Thornton is a frequent contributor to WDJ. She lives in Lake Forest, California.
My dog, Bear, has developed extreme cunning in getting out of whatever device I have on him – buckle collar, body harness (two different styles), Halti head halter – or any combination of these. The only time he was unable to free himself was when the buckle collar was too tight for safety or comfort. Bear’s strategy appears to be to face me, pull backwards, and hop around on his back legs until he pops out of his restraint. Even with the belly band of his harness on tight, he managed to wiggle his elbows through it and pull out backwards.
Also, he’s not easily trainable. He’s smart enough, but he doesn’t really care that much if he pleases us by doing what we say, and he’s not well motivated by food. He’s simply disobedient.
This is getting to be a real problem. Bear gets free so often that my son and I are almost afraid to walk him. As a result, he’s not getting much exercise, and that makes his behavior worse. We’ve been lucky so far that he hasn’t come to grief during his wild getaways, but we can’t go on like this.
-Krista Gimeno via email
Pat Miller, WDJ’s Dog Training Editor, answers this question for us. Miller, a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, offers private and group dog training classes from her base in Chattanooga, Tennessee.
You are right to be concerned. As you are aware, Bear risks his life every time he escapes, and his lack of cooperation diminishes the quality of the relationship that you and your son have with him.
In fact, the collar problem is just a symptom of the relationship problem. Bear is not motivated to do what you want, and he has discovered a very successful strategy for getting to do what he wants instead. I can give you a solution for the collar-slipping problem, but that won’t solve the relationship problem. That’s a bigger challenge, and one that needs to be addressed in greater detail than we have room for here. I would suggest that you locate a good positive trainer in your area to help you find the key to motivating Bear to do what you ask.
You can find trainers who are Association of Pet Dog Trainer members on the APDT website. Please take time to read the “Guidelines for Choosing a Dog Training Professional” that are posted on the web site. While the APDT promotes and endorses the use of positive training tools and techniques, not all APDT members are committed to positive training to the same degree. Be sure to look for one whose philosophies are aligned with yours before putting Bear’s training in his or her hands.
By the way, it’s a misconception that any dog tries to please us. All dogs try to please themselves. It just so happens that what pleases some dogs also makes us happy. These are the dogs that we call “eager to please.” They are really eager to please themselves, and we are fortunate that their “please factor” is aligned with ours. All dogs are motivated by something, and a good positive trainer will be able to help you identify what Bear’s “somethings” are.
Also, dogs who appear to be indifferent to food sometimes just haven’t found the right food yet. A good positive trainer will have access to a virtual smorgasbord of treat options to experiment with in order to find a food that Bear will work for.
Now, back to the collar. A different brand of head halter might be the answer. Many trainers find the Halti is the easiest of the head halters for dogs to escape from. (See “Proper Use of Head Halters for Leash Training,” WDJ June 2000). The others are not escape-proof, however, particularly for a dog who has found collar-slipping to be a successful behavior strategy.
I would strongly suggest you try the Premier Collar, also known as a martingale or limited slip collar. When properly fitted, this collar will tighten only if Bear tries to back out of it, and only enough to prevent his escape, not enough to choke him or cause damage to his trachea. (See “Looking at Dog Collars as a Restraint Tool,” WDJ, October 2000). This collar should keep Bear safe and secure while you find a trainer to help him (and you!) fix the underlying relationship problem.
A Clicker That’s Not So Loud?
Have you ever heard of a “quiet clicker?” I have been experimenting with all kinds of noisemakers, including the click of a ball-point pen, in hopes of finding something that delivers a well-timed click without making a racket. Many trainers are so enthusiastic about clickers that they use them everywhere, even though they are incredibly disruptive and annoying in many situations. I found something called the Sound Leash on-line but haven’t sent for it yet. It’s battery operated and has a volume control. My dog’s hearing is excellent. When she’s standing next to me, she doesn’t need a click that can be heard a block away. Any ideas?
Miller answers:
Hmm – volume controlled clickers – sounds like a great marketing idea to me! Your experiments with ball point pens are on the right track if you want a quiet clicker. Virtually anything that makes a sharp, abrupt sound can be used as a reward marker. Many trainers use a mouth click, a finger snap or a word – a verbal reward marker – that is reserved, like the clicker, to mean only “the behavior you were doing when you heard the word (or other sound) has earned you a reward.” Some behaviorists theorize that the sharp “Click!” of the clicker is more effective than a word, because it reaches a part of the brain that directly reacts to the sound, rather than having to be filtered and interpreted first.
Also, because the clicker (or some other mechanical sound) always sounds exactly the same, it is a more consistent signal than a word, whose sound can vary depending on your mood, tone of voice, or health. I teach my dogs both a Click! and the word “Yes!” so I can use one or the other, depending on the circumstances.
There are cheap plastic frog clickers that make a softer click, available from mail-order places like the Oriental Trading Company. It can still be a pretty annoying sound, however.
The easiest way to get a soft clicker is to take a regular box clicker and place strips of white adhesive tape over the dot on the metal side of the box. (This handy tip comes from legendary clicker-trainers Bob and Marian Bailey. See “Training Other Species to be a Better Dog Trainer,” WDJ December 1998.) The more tape strips you place over the dot, the more the sound is muted. We use this to desensitize dogs who are fearful of the clicker, by starting with a very soft Click! and gradually removing pieces of tape until it is full strength. But if you wanted to leave the tape on and have a permanently muted clicker, you certainly could!
My Dogs Are “Undressing” Each Other
I hope you can help me with a small but strange problem: I have two Labs who refuse to wear collars. It’s not that they struggle to get out of them; it’s that they have learned that they can take turns chewing each others’ collars off! Needless to say, I have gone through a small fortune in nylon and leather collars.
I now remove the collars when they are left alone. Unfortunately, this action leaves me nowhere to attach their dog licenses or identification tags. I also don’t want to use choke collars for fear they could get snagged on something and do as their name implies.
I’m hoping you may have some recommendations on chew-proof collars or suggestions on how to correct this behavior. By the way, I’ve tried soaking the collars in everything I can think of that will leave a bad taste in their mouths. They seem to appreciate the additional flavoring!
Pat Miller writes:
Clicks to you for being aware of and concerned about the dangers of keeping your dogs without their identification on at all times. You do have a dilemma, don’t you? We can address it a couple of different ways. You could have your dogs tattooed and/or microchipped as identification insurance – not a bad idea even for dogs who don’t chew their collars off, since collars can be removed by other means. (See “Microchip Your Dog to Get Him Home Safe,” WDJ November 1998). These are not perfect I.D. solutions either, but every little bit helps…
A training solution is probably not the answer. Since the behavior happens in your absence, it would be very difficult to come up with a positive approach to preventing the undesirable behavior and rewarding a desirable alternative. You say you have used every taste aversion you can think of. If that means home remedies, you might try the commercial preparations like Bitter Apple. If you’ve tried those to no avail, talk to your veterinarian’s staff. They may have access to veterinary products that are used to prevent dogs from chewing on bandages, products that are significantly more bitter and bad tasting than Bitter Apple.
Actually, your chew-proof collar question made me think of a whole new application for a collar that I previously had no earthly use for. You know those ugly leather spike collars with the metal studs that stick out from the collar, most often seen on Pit Bulls and Rottweilers? Might be worth a try! I would test it for short absences at first, to make sure your dogs don’t ignore the pain and cut their mouths up on the spikes. They are Labs, after all, and tend to have a high pain threshold so they can run through the briars and retrieve fallen ducks from ice-cold lakes.
The other management options are separating them when you’re gone, which I doubt would make anyone very happy, or putting them in doggie daycare, where they can be more closely supervised during the day.
Because we feel deeply that dog training should be pleasurable and effective, and because we have personally witnessed innumerable successful demonstrations of completely pain- and fear-free training, we have taken the position that training tools and methods that inflict pain are inferior (a strong word, we know) to those that do not.
We have a history of speaking out against training tools and methods that are, arguably, capable of hurting or scaring dogs (please note that we offer alternatives to these tools and methods in every issue). Recently, we mentioned that we thought it incongruous that two of the largest so-called “humane” organizations in the world had formed professional alliances with companies that make and sell electronic training collars (“What’s a Seal of Approval Worth?” WDJ October 2000).
However, the enduring popularity of these collars makes it clear that many people see nothing wrong with the collars. Lots of people swear by them – including some professional trainers, veterinarians, and experienced competitors in canine sports.
Dr. Phyllis Giroux has all three of the above-described credentials. She graduated from Michigan State University as a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine and a Masters degree in Animal Behavior, and later became a certified Canine Animal Chiropractor. According to her biography, Dr. Giroux has special interest in integrated canine medicine, including chiropractic, homeopathy, herbal medicine and acupuncture. She has been active in purebred dog events in breed, obedience, and field since 1974, and has owned numerous breed champions, earned many obedience titles, working certificates, and has owned and campaigned Retriever Field Champions, Master Hunting Retrievers and Master Hunters. She currently co-owns and operates Deep Run Canine Health Care and Training Center in Goldvein, Virginia, with a business partner, Jack Jagoda.
As you may have guessed by now, Dr. Giroux wholeheartedly advocates the use of electronic training collars. Recently, she and Jagoda completed the first in what they anticipate to be a series of instructional videotapes on the subject of training dogs with the help of electronic training collars. Produced in association with PetSafe, maker of “remote training systems,” the videotapes will demonstrate and explain the trainers’ methods and philosophies. Dr. Giroux was kind enough to forward a copy of the first tape prior to its official release so that we could review it.
We found the tape to be very professionally produced, concise, and informative. The training advice offered and demonstrated by Giroux and Jagoda was sound and reasonable – if you’re not opposed to the use of electronic training collars, which we still are.
Are we being stubborn? Closed-minded? We hope not. We readily admit that the intelligent and restrained use of the collars can produce the desired effect – dogs who perform certain tasks when asked. We can even see how the collars could be used to elicit a response from a dog who would be unreachable in any other way – loose, at a distance, and in the midst of a spontaneous charge toward certain dangers, a busy road, for instance.
But we still feel that there are other training tools and methods that can produce dogs that are trained just as (if not more) quickly and reliably, with absolutely no fear, pain, or potential damage to the relationship between dog and handler. And with these alternatives available, we don’t see the pressing need for electronic collars.
We’ll step back and let Dr. Giroux and Pat Miller, WDJ’s Editor for Dog Training (and an experienced, professional dog trainer with a deep commitment to positive methods) offer their opinions about the controversial collars. You’ll have your own opinion, of course. Why not let us know what that is?
Thank you for printing my story about my dog Sassy (Adoptee Arrives With Baggage, WDJ November 2000). I hope that it will help other people realize that, many time, they can work through the problems they have with their dogs, rather than simply getting rid of the problem dog.
Last month I called Premier for a catalog after reading your review of limited slip collars (Slip-Sliding Away? WDJ October 2000). I knew that Premiers collars were of very high quality because I already had the Gentle Leader, Premiers head halter. I received my order and I was very happy with the quality. The collars were also very attractive on my three girls. But would they work?
I was using conventional chain choke collars for Jasmine and Sassys walks. (Daisy doesnt need one; shes close to perfect.) Jasmine has a bad habit of lunging toward passing cars and I always worry about her slipping out of her collar. The choke collar worked but she was always gasping for air. Sassy is very good until a stray or loose dog runs up to her. I cant take the chance of her slipping out of her collar, either.
I have to admit, I was a little nervous taking the dogs out with the new collars for the first time. If the collars didnt work correctly, Jasmine could be under the tires of a passing car. Well, they worked great! Jasmine no longer sounds like shes choking.
Then, last night, the collar passed the ultimate test. When we were walking, a neighbors dog came out of the sagebrush in the dark and ran right at us. It was not good. If my husband had lost control of the leash, there could have been a bad fight. I managed to chase the dog off. We had the Direct Stop spray with us, but I couldnt get it to spray; it was jammed.
But anyway, the collar worked great. Neither of our fighting dogs was in danger of slipping out of her collar.
Thanks again for being such a great resource.
-Tina Diedrichsen Elko, NV
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For several years I have researched human vaccines, and so I was concerned about canine vaccines as well. We have a three-year-old Beagle that was fully vaccinated for her first two years. Last summer, she had an allergic reaction to either a bee sting or insect bite. It was pretty frightening as she lost control of her bladder, bowels, and legs. The local vet put her on a steroid for a few days and she recovered completely. I decided to ignore the notice that she was due for shots until a notice for the rabies booster came. I did speak with a holistic vet and was advised that if the dog bit someone, without proof of a vaccination, the dog may have to be destroyed.
Well, within an hour of the booster shot, the poor thing was vomiting and swelling over her entire body. Back we go to the vet for additional treatment. Our poor dog was miserable for the rest of the day but has since recovered. I do not know if the vet reported the reaction but have done so myself. Thank you for providing the information on where to report adverse events (Reporting Problems With Medications, August 2000). The vet and I did discuss titer tests and we will do that next time the booster is due.
Sitting on cue is one of those basic behaviors that every dog should know, and happily, it is an absurdly simple behavior to teach. In fact, I remind my students that their dogs already know how to sit – it’s just the “doing it on cue” part that we have to work on!
Nowhere, perhaps, is the difference between positive and compulsion training more beautifully obvious than with the “sit.” A considerable part of the first session of many compulsion classes is spent teaching owners how to force their dogs to sit by jerking, pushing, and manipulating various body parts. I spend my first night of class talking with my students, explaining how (and why) we are going to train our dogs without using force. Meanwhile my demonstration dog for the night – an obstreperous, untrained dog provided by one of my students, a dog whom I have never met before – emphatically offers sit after sit after sit. Magic? Not really – just an application of the positive reinforcement elements of “operant conditioning,” a training technique that teaches a dog to voluntarily offer the behaviors that we want.
Magic Markers
The key to positive training is remembering to notice and reward the dog when he does something right. A dog sits dozens of times a day, all on his own. If we make it a point to reward him a good percentage of the times when he does, he’ll do it even more, because all living beings repeat behaviors that are rewarding to them. This is why so many dogs jump up on people. We tend to ignore dogs when they’re sitting quietly, and pay attention to them when they jump up. They get rewarded for jumping, so they jump more.
A reward marker is a word or a sound that tells a dog the instant he has exhibited a desirable behavior. Clickers are commonly used as reward markers because the Click! sound is so distinctive and consistent. Reward markers can also consist of the word “Yes!” (or any other word you choose), a “mouth click,” the click of a ball-point pen, or any other consistent, distinct sound. The Click! or “Yes” (or other reward marker) is a promise to the dog that a treat is forthcoming, and every Click! earns a treat.
Positive trainers use treats as rewards because food is a primary motivator – all living things need food to survive – and because a dog can quickly eat his treat and get back to the fun of training. It is possible to train without reward markers and treats by using toys, play, petting, and/or praise as rewards; but in my experience, it’s less effective and less efficient.
Let’s take a look at my first-night demo dog and see how the reward marker works.
I begin class by introducing myself and talking about the philosophy of positive dog training. While I do that, I also have the demo dog’s leash in my hand. I test his response to the clicker by clicking it in my pocket to muffle the sharpness of the sound. Then I feed him an irresistible treat. I click and treat several more times and then, assuming he doesn’t react badly to the sound of the clicker, I bring it out of my pocket and continue the clicks and treats while I talk. Usually, it takes no more than a half-dozen treats to convince the dog to rivet his attention on me.
Once this happens, I stop the constant flow of treats, and hold one up near my chest. Often, the dog will try to jump up for the treat. If he does, I simply whisk the treat out of sight and turn away, without making eye contact or paying him any attention. Eventually he will sit, because it’s easier to look up at me (and the treat) when he’s sitting. The instant he does, I Click! and treat.
It takes most dogs less than three minutes to become sitting machines, offering sit after sit in order to make the Click! happen and earn the treat reward; this is the secret of the “magic marker.” The dog learns that he makes the Click! and treat happen. Trainers jokingly call this the “Helen Keller moment.” Once we open that door, the dog is ready for training.
Putting Sit on Cue
Although the class listens to my comments while I work with the designated demo dog, they also watch his miraculous transformation from an out-of-control busy bee, to sitting at my feet, paying rapt attention to me. His behavior, more than any words I could speak, underscores the effectiveness of positive training.
At this point, I point out that I have not yet asked the dog to sit. With operent conditioning, we get the behavior first, then we add the verbal cue. There is no point in using a word to ask the dog to do something when he has no idea what it means. Once we know we can get the dog to offer the behavior, then we add the word so that he can start to make the association between the word and the behavior.
This is easy with the sit. I take a step backward. The dog gets up to follow his newfound treat machine. I stop, and he sits to make the Click! happen. As his bottom touches the floor I say “Sit!” then Click! and treat. I am telling him – in verbal shorthand – that the behavior he just did is called “Sit.” I repeat this several times, and then I start saying “Sit” just before he sits. By watching his body language, it’s easy for me to predict when he is about to sit. Now I am teaching him that the “Sit!” sound precedes his sit behavior. I click and treat every time.
I suggest to the class that an uneducated observer would think that the dog was responding to the verbal cue when he’s really not. I am predicting the dog’s sit behavior with the word. He does not yet understand that the word is his prompt to sit.
We test this assertion. I ask the dog to sit at a time when his body language tells me he is not about to sit – he is distracted, sniffing the floor, or looking away from me. Lo and behold, he doesn’t sit! I explain that he has not “refused” to sit on cue – he simply didn’t understand the slightly different context. I don’t nag at him with several repetitions of the “Sit” cue. Rather, I get his attention, and when I can see that he is ready to sit, I say the word. He promptly responds. The class gets the message.
Downhill from Here
Teaching the down is not quite as easy as the sit, since dogs are less apt to “offer” the down behavior in a training session than a sit. Once again, a food-treat motivator comes in handy. You can lure your dog into a down by putting a treat in front of his nose and moving it slowly toward the ground. Lots of dogs will follow the lure easily and end up in a perfect down on the first try. Click! and treat!
Some dogs won’t, however. They may not understand what you want them to do, and so they stand up when you try to lure them down. Some dogs are reluctant to lie down because they feel more vulnerable in the down position. In these cases you can “shape” the behavior. Shaping means breaking the final desired behavior into small steps and clicking and rewarding the dog repeatedly at each step along the way. Here is one way to shape the down:
1. Have the dog sit facing you. Hold the treat in front of his nose and move it two inches toward the ground. Click! and treat. Repeat several times until he shows no sign of trying to stand when you move the treat.
2. Have the dog sit. Hold the treat in front of his nose and move it five inches toward the ground. Click! and treat. Repeat several times until he shows no sign of trying to stand when you move the treat. If he does get up, say “Oops!” in a cheerful tone of voice, and try again. If he consistently gets up, go back to two inches, and when he can do two inches without getting up, try three inches. (When your dog has trouble with the transition from one step to the next, make the steps even smaller.)
3. Keep moving the treat closer to the floor until your dog’s nose is touching the ground. Now move the treat away from his nose along the floor, toward you, a few inches. Click and treat when he follows it with his nose. Gradually move the treat farther and farther away from his nose, clicking and treating as he follows without getting up. Eventually he will move one paw forward as he follows the lure. Click! and treat, then continue to lure him with the goodie until he is all of the way down. Click! and jackpot! Give him several treats, one after the other, while you tell him what a wonderful dog he is.
Bingo – you’ve done it! Or rather, the dog has done it. Once. Fortunately, it’s usually much easier the second time. Keep practicing until he will lie down for you easily when you lure him, and then start adding the verbal cue, “Down,” as he does it. Remember, you’re not asking him to “Down” yet, you’re telling him that the behavior he is doing is called “Down.”
As soon as your dog has had an opportunity to hear the word with the behavior a half-dozen times or more, you can use the word first, then lure to help him lie down.
Fading the Lure
Now comes the real challenge – getting your dog to lie down on the verbal cue without the lure. You must “fade” the lure – that is, reduce his (and your) dependence on the treat to get the “Down.”
Have your dog sit facing you, and hold the treat behind your back. Say “Down” in a cheerful tone of voice. He probably will sit and look at you, since he doesn’t know what the word means yet. Give him several seconds to think about it, then put the treat in front of his nose and lure him down. Click! and treat. Then do it again.
Watch him closely when you say “Down.” If he looks at the ground or makes a tentative motion as if to lie down, it’s almost as if he’s asking you if that’s what he’s supposed to do. Tell him “Good boy!” and quickly lure him the rest of the way down for a Click! and treat. If you encourage his tentative movements, you will speed up his response to the verbal cue.
Another way to fade the lure is to use smaller and smaller motions toward the ground with the treat until you’re not moving it at all. Or, motion toward the ground with your empty hand; Click! when he goes down and feed him the treat.
How quickly you accomplish the verbal down depends on the dog and you. I have seen dogs go down on a verbal cue in as few as three repetitions, and I have had students who still need the lure at the conclusion of a six-week class. Timing and persistence are key. If you frequently forget to pause after the verbal cue before you lure, your dog will focus on the lure, and won’t learn the cue.
Formula for Learning
Remember that the more complex a behavior is, the more likely it is that you will have to shape it. The better you are at breaking the behavior into small steps, the easier it is for your dog to understand what you want. Once he figures out that he makes the Click! happen, you can use the same training formula to teach any behavior. Figure out how to get the behavior, Click! it, and put it on cue. Simple. Not always easy – but simple.
The most valuable aspect of this training method is that it teaches a dog how to learn. This is a skill that the two of you can rely on for the rest of his training career – whether for formal competition, or to perform new tricks to impress your friends. His ability and interest in learning behaviors that please you will also help make him a more enjoyable housemate and companion.
Pat Miller is a freelance author and a professional dog trainer in Chattanooga, Tennessee. She is also a member of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.
Thanks to trainer Sandy Thompson, of Sirius Puppy Training in Berkeley, California, for her help demonstrating these techniques in these photographs.
Like peanut butter and jelly…like macaroni and cheese…like Lassie and Timmy, dogs and kids just naturally seem to go together. Still, for every heartwarming story we hear where a loyal Shep pushes his toddler out of the path of a speeding car, it seems we read about an equally bone-chilling tragedy where Cujo mauls a child.
Dog bites are responsible for a minuscule number of fatalities per year an average of 19 per year over the last 20 years, not all of them children compared to thousands of children’s deaths from auto accidents, house fires, and domestic abuse. According to the Centers For Disease Control in Atlanta, Georgia, however, non-fatal dog bites are the number one health problem for children in this country, outpacing measles, mumps, and whooping cough combined.
It is an unusual child who does not, at some point in his childhood, want a puppy more than anything else in the whole wide world, and it is an unusual parent who does not, at some point, succumb to those wishes. It’s also unusual for a child to reach the 12th grade without having been bitten by a dog on at least one occasion. Since, thank goodness, kids will have and love dogs, it is critically important for parents and the dogs juvenile caretakers as well to do all the right things to make sure they end up with a Shep rather than a Cujo.
Donna Duford is an internationally-known positive dog trainer and behavior consultant. Her dog training business, Companion Dog Training, is based in North Brookfield, Massachusetts, where she frequently sees clients with kids and dogs. Duford has a special interest in child/dog relationships, and has presented information on the subject to other dog trainers at the annual conference of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT), a professional organization that promotes dog-friendly training and ongoing trainer education.
Duford says there are so many wonderful things that happen in positive dog/kid relationships, that it’s hard to know where to begin! Children who have good relationships with dogs often learn about responsibility and develop great empathy for a species different from their own, she says. I have seen many children gain self-esteem from caring for and/or training their dogs.
On the other hand, Duford recognizes that there are myriad ways that the child/dog relationship can turn sour. She has seen dogs with every conceivable negative reaction to children, and has been consulted by countless families to solve problems between dogs and kids in a household. WDJ caught up with Duford at November 2000 APDT meeting in Houston, where we discussed ways to train dogs and kids to build the strongest and safest relationship possible.
WDJ: What are some of the problems you see occuring between kids and dogs?
Duford: The negative aspects of the dog/child paradigm that I see most frequently are children teasing dogs, and dogs chasing, mouthing, and sometimes mounting children. The good news is that these problems are quite treatable if the family is motivated to work on them.
The worst thing I see in child/dog relationships is antagonism, deliberate or not, that results in aggression. When the family dog bites a child it is a traumatic event. It is scary, there may be injuries, and it causes great emotional upheaval for the family, not to mention financial liability.
WDJ: Clearly, the largest part of the responsibility to create good dog/kid relationships falls on human shoulders. What are the most important things that you teach parents to do to dog-proof their kids?
Duford: Dog-proofing falls into three categories: dogs in general, the family dog, and strange dogs.
To be dog-proofed, kids need to have respect for dogs, and they need to understand strict rules about dog safety. Parents should teach their children empathy and respectful behavior to all dogs.
Parents also need to teach dog safety much the way they teach fire safety with a clear, strong message. Children need to know that they must not bother dogs when they’re eating, chewing on a bone, or playing with other dogs. They must never approach or run from an unknown dog. They should be taught to ask owners of unknown dogs if they may pet the dog, and they need to be taught the correct way to pet.
Also, all children need to know that all dogs can bite. Dog bites are serious and the topic should not be sugarcoated.
With respect to the family dog, very young children under five years of age should not be encouraged to hug or kiss the dog. Even if the family dog tolerates or likes it, children of this age are impulsive and not old enough to understand one set of rules for one dog and different rules for others. If a young child routinely hugs and kisses her dog, she will be more likely to try it with strange dogs, which could have devastating results. Older children can be taught, if it is appropriate, that there are different rules for the family dog and other dogs.
WDJ: Let’s turn it around. What can dog owners do to kid-proof their dogs?
Duford: Socialization to children is paramount. Building a positive association with children by exposing the dog to friendly, polite children is a great start. Playing the dog’s favorite game or giving her special food treats when children are around is even better.
Another child-proofing measure I teach all my clients is to help the dog to have positive associations with all kinds of handling. We do this by pairing various types of touching with something the dog loves, like a special food-treat or toy. This should be done systematically, starting with very gentle handling and working up to rough, toddler-like handling such as tail-pulling, hair grabbing, and poking. The handling should not actually hurt the dog, and is best done under the supervision of a qualified dog trainer.
WDJ: Are some breeds of dogs better choices for kids dogs?
Duford: This is a tough one I hesitate to classify dogs by breed. There certainly are tendencies, within breeds, but each dog is an individual and I would hate to deprive a dog or a kid of a great companion based on a generalization. Instead, I would look at temperament qualities.
Good qualities for family dogs are high sociability and responsiveness, and low to moderate energy and excitability. This is somewhat dependent on the age and number of children and the family lifestyle, of course, but you stack the deck in your favor by choosing a dog who likes people, one who actively seeks them out. A social dog chooses to be with people when given the chance. This is different from a dog who likes people but doesn’t actively engage with them.
Dogs who are responsive take direction easily and are easy to train. Energy level and excitability are especially important considerations for families with small children. Dogs who are easily aroused and have a high energy level are likely to get overstimulated by children running, playing, and squealing.
If there is one breed category I would steer clear of with young children it would be toy dogs. Bigger dogs are sturdier and will fare better when accidentally stepped on or tripped over.
Also, with young families, I usually suggest adopting an adult dog. Most families with young children do not need the extra work required to raise a puppy or adolescent dog. It is also often easier to evaluate the temperament of an adult dog and its suitability to living with children.
WDJ: What are some of the worst things a parent can do in a dog/kid relationship?
Duford: Lack of supervision is a big problem. Dogs and kids should not be left unsupervised. Even the best-behaved children and dogs slip up. Accidents happen. Forcing dogs to interact with kids is also a big no-no. If the dog doesn’t want to be with kids, she is sending a clear message.
Pushing kids to take too much responsibility for the dog is also something I discourage. Unless we are talking about a teenager, dogs should always be the total responsibility of the adults in the household. Children do not have the maturity or self-discipline to care for another being, and parents need to understand that the kids should, at best, play a supporting role in dog care and training.
WDJ: Once a dog has bitten a child, can he ever be trusted with children again?
Duford: This is a loaded question. It depends on the severity of the bite and the circumstances surrounding the incident. Some dogs are fine with the family children but not with strange children. Some dogs are wonderful with children of a certain age and not with others.
Occasionally, the dog will be fine in all situations except the one in which the bite occurred. For instance, a dog may be wonderful with the kids except when they approach the dogs food dish. Regardless, if the dog has bitten, or even growled at a child, everyone should sit up and take notice. This is not a fluke. The dog is communicating something and there is every reason to expect that if she finds herself in the same situation she will bite again.
For many dog-owner teams, the transition from leash-training to long-distance work can be a frustrating challenge. Some dogs frequently disregard our cues when they cross an indiscernible (to us) threshold. But he knows what come means! Z client wails, and points as proof to the fact the Ranger comes impeccably, every time, when called in the training center, the house, or the back yard.
The fact is that Ranger does know what come means in the training center, in the house, and in the back yard. He also knows that when he’s hiking in the woods with his human guardian, chasing squirrels and rabbits is far more entertaining and rewarding than coming back when he is called, especially since Come! Often means the hike is over, the leash is going on the collar, and we’re returning to the car.
How do you manage to make the transition from come reliably when called within a safe, controlled area to come reliably when called regardless of where we are or what other exciting things are happening?
Enter the long line: a behavior management tool that you can use very effectively to prevent Ranger from being rewarded by dashing off. The fact that he cant leave also gives you the opportunity to convince him that coming to you is irresistibly rewarding regardless of the circumstances.
Long lines come in many forms, from retractable leashes to light nylon lines, nylon check cords, or cotton training leashes, and range in length.
The purpose of the long line is simply to restrain Ranger so he cant get his adrenaline fix by tearing after Bambi in the woods it’s then up to you to make yourself interesting and exciting enough to get him to return to you. The long line is not for yanking or pulling a dog back to you that will only serve to confirm his opinion that playing in the woods is more fun than hanging out with you!
The following are some tips on the right way to use a long line as a training tool.
• Train a solid come response in controlled circumstances (for more information, see Total Recall, WDJ December 2000). Practice both with a long line in controlled circumstances as well as doing off-leash recalls, so the long line doesn’t always predict an adrenaline-generating adventure to the wilds of the woods.
• Use enclosed areas of different sizes to practice with Ranger on and off of the long line. If you practice only in your own back yard, and your own back yard is 30 x 50, Ranger is learning to come only from a maximum distance of 50 feet. Find a friend with a securely fenced pasture of an acre or more or go to a fenced community dog park during low-usage times when Ranger won’t be distracted by other dogs. You have to be able to do this off-line work without worrying that your dog will disappear into the National Forest for days at a time.
Note: If you plan to drop your long line and let the dog run with it attached to his collar, be sure you are not training anywhere where he might run off into the woods and get inextricably tangled around trees and brush.
• Whenever you arrive at a new location, do 5-10 minutes of recall practice (coming when called) on the long line, interspersed with other good manners training practice, before removing your dog’s leash. Then do a few minutes of focused off-leash training. This will teach him that training happens even in exciting places that a trip to his favorite park does not mean total lack of control, and that removing the leash is not an invitation to charge off into the brush.
• When you first let Ranger off the leash, do some short recalls and make them very rewarding use his absolute favorite treat that he gets only when he comes when called, or a quick game of fetch with a toy or ball that he obsesses over.
• As you hike around the large enclosed area with Ranger, look for opportunities to call him when he very likely to come that is, when he is looking a bit bored, not when he is fixated on a squirrel up a tree or totally preoccupied with digging a hole. When he comes, make wonderful things happen, then let him go play again. This teaches him that come means wonderful yummy fun-stuff break and then go play, rather than funs over, time to go home!
• Several times during the outing, put the long line back on Ranger’s collar, hold onto the end, and walk with him no more than 10 feet away from you on the line (this works in open pasture it does not work well in heavy woods and brush). When you (and he) spot a squirrel or a rabbit, call the dog to you. If he doesn’t come, don’t get angry and don’t drag him back to you with the long line, just wait until he realizes he can’t get to the squirrel, and is willing to return to you. When he does, tell him what a wonderful dog he is, have him sit, feed him a treat if he’s interested, then release the line, and say, “Go Chase.” Run toward the squirrel with him to encourage him, if he needs it.
This exercises teaches your dog the Premack Principle, which says that in order to get something really wonderful, he has to do something less wonderful first. In this case, the road to squirrel is through come to my person. As he gets better and better at responding, let him range farther and farther out on the long line until he will Premack back to you from 50 or more in order to earn his squirrel chase. (By the way, this also gives the squirrel a significant head start to the nearest tree and ensures that Ranger wont commit squirrelicide on his outings with you.)
Every once in a while, don’t release him to go chase you need to put the Go Chase on a variable schedule so he doesn’t think he gets to chase every time. Sometimes, like when it’s the neighbor’s cat, or the squirrel is across the street, a chase reward won’t be appropriate.
• When Ranger will return to you reliably from the distant reaches of the long line even in the face of thundering squirrels and rabbits, you are ready to try Premack off-leash. To increase your likelihood of success, do your first off-leash test when Ranger is near you. When the opportune moment arises say, when Ranger sees a squirrel at a distance call him to you, reward him with a treat if you like, have him sit, and then tell him to Go Chase! If he takes off after the squirrel anyway, don’t keep calling. Wait until he tires of the squirrel, then call him back to you in a pleasant tone, and go back to practicing on the long line. Do not punish him!
The temptation doesn’t have to be small speeding animals. It can be other dogs playing, an invitingly cool pond on a hot day, or an appetizing pile of horse manure. The reliable recall, trained with the help of a long line, can serve you well in an endless variety of challenging circumstances. You could be the dog owner who can proudly say, Ranger knows what come means everywhere, and every time!
For me, one of the best things about working for Belvoir Publications (WDJ’s publisher) is that the company has a long history of and a dedication to consumer-oriented, advocacy journalism. In other words, because Belvoir magazines accept no advertising, Belvoir editors are free to examine and truthfully critique products without fear of losing income from offended advertisers. We are allowed to take informed but subjective editorial positions (and defend them!) on any subject that is of concern to our readers.
This is a liberating position for me and my fellow editors; in most publication offices, writers and editors are constantly warned to remain carefully “objective” in print, no matter what our real opinions are. Understand, kowtowing to advertisers is taught to journalists early. I’ll never forget my first editorial meeting at the huge national parents’ magazine where I interned while I was getting my Bachelor’s degree in journalism many moons ago. An argument broke out between the editorial staff (on one side) and the publisher and ad saleswomen (on the other) regarding an article titled, “Family Flapjacks.” The author of the article had written that if you can afford to splurge for real maple syrup to pour over the pancakes on special occasion breakfasts, you should do it. The ad staff, who had sold full color, full page advertising to an (artificially maple-flavored) syrup company, wanted those lines stricken from the story. The power of advertising dollars is formidable and insidious.
Fortunately, I don’t have to deal with any of that anymore. It’s wonderful. Not only do I get to take a stand on issues in the dog world, I am encouraged and supported by my publishers to do so.
Usually, this is appreciated by our readers. Most people who subscribe to one of the 28 Belvoir Publications’ magazines because they value our (hopefully) informed and (absolutely) independent opinions.
Of course, not everyone who reads our opinions agrees with them!
WDJ has a dual focus – holistic health care and non-violent training. We find that these things work well together, and many of our readers agree. But some people admit that they subscribe specifically for information about one of those areas, and disagree with our positions in the other area. They embrace holistic care, but they think clicker training is for the birds. Or they love our gentle training tips, but prefer to leave raw diets and such to the wolves. (Of course, if they don’t appreciate either focus, they subscribe to something else!) Generally, these folks can just flip past the material they don’t like to something that they do.
Once in a long while, though, one of our strong positions on some subject aggravates someone who usually really likes us – so much so that they can no longer appreciate us at all. And guess what? We did that recently.
In the particular case I’m talking about, the person we annoyed was someone we like and respect, someone who has contributed valuable information to this very publication. We feel we owe this person an opportunity to publicly disagree with us. We know she is not alone; we’re sure there are other readers who agree with her. So we’re going to air the arguments on both sides of the issue – just a little – and let you make up your own minds. Check out “A Buzz About E-Collars” on page 20. I don’t think we’ll ever sell our viewpoints on the subject to our esteemed (former?) associate, and goodness knows we’re not convinced of the superiority of her views. But that’s okay. The important thing is to stay respectful, kind, patient, and open-minded – that’s our New Year’s resolution.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
