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What’s in Your Dog Food?

By
Editorial Staff
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Dog Food Logic Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Dog Food Logic, by Linda P. Case, M.S.

The ingredients that make up a dog food are (and should be) of great concern to dog owners and pet professionals. A food’s ingredients have the job of providing all of the essential nutrients and energy (calories) to the dog who consumes the food, as well as contributing to the food’s flavor, texture and appeal. As a result, when dog owners are selecting and comparing dog foods, the first place that they typically look is the label’s ingredient list. We naturally expect this list to tell us what we need to know. Unfortunately, while the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act requires that pet food labels (like human food labels) are truthfully labeled and must include all of the food sources present in the product, current FDA and AAFCO labeling requirements fall far short of what is needed to allow informed and well considered choices by consumers.

It is not the purpose of this book to provide yet another list of AAFCO ingredient definitions or to describe the differences between various pet food ingredients. Rather, since the purpose of this book and this chapter in particular is to provide dog owners and professionals with the skills and knowledge that will support smart decisions, let’s start with identifying what exactly you can know about the ingredients in a food, what you can find out with a bit sleuthing, and what unfortunately you will never, ever be privy to (if the pet food introductory continues its current practices). Let’s begin with ingredient information that is readily available to all consumers. . .

. . . The final rule, the 3% rule, has to do with a seemingly simple and innocent-sounding word: “with.” If a pet food label contains that word in its product name, the product is required to have only 3% of the ingredient in the formulation at the time of processing. If you measure out 100 pieces of kibble from a food labeled “with salmon” and then remove three pieces of kibble from the pile, those three pieces are equivalent to the amount of salmon that is found in that pile of kibble. Not much. Yet consumers are expected to know, understand and differentiate between the 95% Salmon Food, the 25% Salmon Dinner, and the 3% Adult Dinner with Salmon foods. This rule is by design imprecise (from 95% down to 25% for food versus dinner, really?) and in practice misleads (and possibly even deceives) consumers. If you wish to feed a salmon (or chicken or turkey or venison) based food, look for one of AAFCO’s qualifying terms (dinner, recipe, formula) and avoid brands with the term “with”. Then, keep reading.

Need help choosing a food for your dog? Want assistance wading through the ads, labels, hype and information bombarding you every day? Learn what matters most by reading Dog Food Logic. Buy it today from Whole Dog Journal.

Who Makes Your Dog Food?

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Dog Food Logic Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Dog Food Logic, by Linda P. Case, M.S.

While today many pet professionals are aware that the company that owns and sells the brand they feed may not actually be manufacturing the food, many dog owners do not. A substantial number of companies “co-pack” their foods, which means that the pet food company gives their formulation (recipe) to a manufacturing company that produces, bags, labels and ships their food. The manufacturer mixes ingredients according to the specified formulations and produces a wide variety of pet foods that are sold under different brand names. So while you may think that P&G or Nestle Purina make the food you feed your dog, in some cases the company that actually puts together the final product is a business you have never heard of such as Ohio Pet Food, CJ Foods and Simmons – none of which would qualify as household names.

This process becomes even more convoluted when one considers that, like many consumer goods today, the supply chain of ingredients may be outsourced to several different middleman companies (consider the sequence from the 2007 disaster – Chinese supplier to ChemNautra to Menu to Pet Food Brands). In addition, pet food companies also may contract food production to several different factories, some of which are located in the US, while others are not. One of the reasons that the Menu Foods recall was so extensive was that Menu Foods specialized in producing wet (canned) products. While many of the large pet food companies own and operate their own dry food factories, there are only a handful of factories that operate as canneries and produce wet pet food. As a result, many companies, including the large corporations, contract the manufacture of their wet foods to another company, typically referred to as a co-packer. Another example is chicken treats, many of which, until the 2012 recall anyway, were completely sourced and produced in China.

Need help choosing a food for your dog? Want assistance wading through the ads, labels, hype and information bombarding you every day? Learn what matters most by reading Dog Food Logic. Buy it today from Whole Dog Journal.

What’s So Special About a Dog’s Nutritional Needs?

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Dog Food Logic Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Dog Food Logic, by Linda P. Case, M.S.

During my years of teaching canine nutrition to college students, teaching training classes to dog owners and providing educational materials and training programs to staff in the pet food industry, I have come to believe that, as a profession, companion animal nutritionists have generally done a poor job of educating dog lovers regarding exactly what we do know about dog (and cat) nutrition. It is my hope that this book will bridge the gap and provide you with both the tools for critical thinking and enough nutrition information about dogs to help you to make well-supported and informed choices for your dog’s nutritional health. For those of you who are pet professionals, this information will help you to guide and advise your clients when they ask you the most frequently asked question: “What should I feed my dog?” (This is typically followed by “What do you feed your dogs?”)

As we have seen in earlier chapters, when compared with hyperbole and extravagant health claims, the evidence that science provides seems to plod along at a snail’s pace and often is about as exciting as watching paint dry. The fact that science-based evidence does not scream at us in sensationalist language or excite emotion to the same degree that someone claiming to cure cancer with a nutrient elixir does not mean that we should throw in the towel, give up and just listen to Joe next door who seems to know a lot about dogs. Rather, we need (and should demand) solid, science-based sources of nutrition information that both inform and motivate us to choose well for our dogs. However, I also realize that nutrition can be dry as dirt and that most nutrition books are not considered to be great bedside reading material. So, here’s the deal: I am going to provide as much nutrition-packed information as possible in the next several chapters while at the same time giving your plenty of examples and stories. (Uh oh-anecdotes! You know to now place your skeptic’s hat squarely upon your head!) My hope is to make the process a lot more palatable (tasty!) as well as to provide examples that will help this information to “stick” given that we now know that humans best remember events and facts that are associated with some type of experience or story. Let’s begin with an examination of what we know versus what we may believe or wish to be true about a dog’s nutritional needs.

Need help choosing a food for your dog? Want assistance wading through the ads, labels, hype and information bombarding you every day? Learn what matters most by reading Dog Food Logic. Buy it today from Whole Dog Journal.

Download The Full April 2024 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
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8
  • Valley Fever
  • Puzzle Masters
  • Touching Your Puppy
  • Hello Kitty!
  • How Low is Too Low?
  • Progressive Platform
  • Veterinary Behaviorists
  • Wet Bed?
  • Ear Mites
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Homemade Ear Cleaner for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Homemade dog ear cleaner can make keeping your dogs ears much less expensive.
Make sure you dry the dog’s ear well, using clean cotton balls or cotton gauze to wipe away dirt and earwax that’s been loosened by the cleaning solution. Photo by Irina Kashaeva, Getty Images

Some dogs’ ears stay clean without any attention or effort from us, but other dogs’ ears are prone to developing a dirty, stinky state unless they are cleaned regularly. The accumulation of ear wax, dirt, and debris invites the development of fungal and bacterial infections and ear mite infestations. Using homemade ear cleaner for dogs can keep your dog’s ears clean and free of funky buildup. It will go a long way towards preventing these problems.

 

Ingredients for dog ear-cleaning solutions

There are dozens of recipes for homemade ear washes for dogs, and opinions differ as to which are the best and why. To experiment with your own recipes, assemble a clean empty jar or bottle, an eyedropper and measuring cup or spoons, cotton balls or gauze, cotton-tipped applicators, and ingredients like the following:

  • Boric acid. A topical treatment for yeast infections in humans and canines, this dry powder is widely used as an ingredient in ear cleaners. It has antiseptic properties and aids in drying and acidifying the ear canal, which discourages yeast and bacterial growth. Small amounts of boric acid (sold in pharmacies) can be combined with liquid ingredients to create an ear rinse or wash.
  • Vinegar, whether white distilled or apple cider vinegar, helps dissolve earwax and debris while protecting against yeast and bacteria. It should always be diluted with water or other appropriate liquids to prevent irritation and damage to the ear canal’s delicate skin.
  • Alcohol (isopropyl or rubbing alcohol as well as ethanol) is an effective and fast-acting disinfectant, destroying bacteria, viruses, yeasts, and fungi. Its drying properties help maintain a healthy ear environment. However, it can be painful when applied full-strength. Always dilute alcohol with less irritating liquids (such as water, green tea, or aloe vera juice) to avoid painful burning.
  • Witch hazel, an herbal extract used for its skin-friendly astringent properties, can be used in ear rinses, but commercial brands like Thayer’s and Dickenson’s contain alcohol, which can irritate inflamed skin. Always dilute with other liquids.
  • Green tea, brewed from the leaves and buds of Camellia sinensis, is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Several holistic veterinarians, including Dr. Pitcairn, recommend brewing it full-strength for use in a dog’s ear rinse. Pour a cup of boiling water over a teabag or teaspoon of green tea herb, let it stand until cooled to room temperature, then strain and apply.
  • Aloe vera juice or gel helps maintain ear health by drying, soothing, and cleaning the ear canal. It can be applied alone or combined with other ingredients to create a soothing, healing wash or rinse.
  • Glycerin is a colorless, odorless, viscous, non-toxic liquid that is included in canine ear cleaners as a thickening agent and to distribute other ingredients evenly throughout the ear canal. It is unlikely to cause irritation or allergic reactions, and it helps keep the skin supple and comfortable.
  • Don’t use: Hydrogen peroxide is a liquid disinfectant, bleaching agent, and antiseptic. Diluted to 3% by weight, it’s sold for consumer use, and its higher concentrations have industrial applications. Hydrogen peroxide is not recommended for cleaning a dog’s ears because unless greatly diluted, it can cause burning, stinging, or discomfort.

Combine ingredients of your choice for an effective and comfortable ear rinse for your dog. Or try one of these sample recipes:

Before you clean those ears

Before you start using any ear-cleaning solution, make sure your dog doesn’t have an ear infection or mite infestation already. If your dog has been scratching his ears, or tilting or shaking his head or rubbing it on the floor, he should be seen by your veterinarian – particularly if his ear canals are red or inflamed and/or they have an unpleasant odor. These symptoms accompany ear infections, so if they’re present and persistent, see your veterinarian. Ear infections should not be ignored as they are painful and can lead to hearing loss.

If you’re sure your dog’s ears are not currently infected – they just tend to get gunky, smell yeasty, or stay wet because of frequent swims – cleaning his ears at home can help prevent recurrent infections.

Rinse 1

Mix 4 tablespoons (2 fluid ounces or 1/4 cup) white or apple cider vinegar with the same amount of water, green tea, or aloe vera juice. Then add 1/2 teaspoon boric acid, 5 drops of isopropyl rubbing alcohol, and 2 drops glycerin. Shake well to mix ingredients.

Rinse 2

Add 1/4 water to 1/4 cup vinegar, add 2 tablespoons witch hazel, 2 tablespoons boric acid, and 1 tablespoon aloe vera gel. Shake well.

Rinse 3

Brew 1/2 cup of freshly brewed green tea and cool to room temperature. Use this rinse by itself or add 2 tablespoons boric acid and shake well.

How to use homemade dog ear cleaner

Cleaning the ears and keeping them dry is an important preventive measure because persistent moisture in a dog’s ears encourages harmful bacteria to thrive. All you need is a dog-safe ear-cleansing solution and cotton balls, gauze, and/or cotton-tipped applicators.

  • Make sure your cleaning solution is warmed to a comfortable temperature. You can immerse your jar of cleaning solution in a bowl of hot water until the ear cleaner has reached something close to your body temperature. Drip a few drops of the solution onto your bare wrist; if it’s neither hot nor cold, it’s just right.
  • Apply enough cleansing solution to a cotton ball to make it wet. Place the soaked cotton in your dog’s ear and press it to release the solution. Most dogs prefer this to having cleanser squirted into the ear. If your dog is still cooperative, massage the ear canal from the outside at the base of the ear opening, helping distribute the solution throughout the ear. Be prepared: When you let go of the dog’s ear, your dog may vigorously shake her head, splattering cleaning solution all around your immediate environment!
  • Gently wipe the ear with cotton or gauze, replacing it with a fresh piece after each wipe until the ear is clean and dry. Stop cleaning if the ear begins to bleed or if the ear cleaning causes pain.
  • Gently remove debris from the ear’s nooks and crannies with a cotton-tipped applicator. Q-Tips and other cotton-tipped applicators should be used only in areas where you can see; reaching too deep into the ear could accidentally rupture your dog’s eardrum.
  • Repeat with the other ear. Many veterinarians recommend cleaning the ears twice a week to treat or prevent infection, then every week or every other week for routine maintenance.

For more information, see “Prevent Dog Ear Infections by Cleaning Your Dog’s Ears.”

Scent Training for Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Scent work for dogs builds upon the primary sense they use to interact with the world.
: In scent training for dogs, your dog may surprise you at how good his nosework is and how quickly he finds the particular scent he was looking for. Credit: Aksakalko | Getty Images

Nosework, or scent training for dogs, such as American Kennel Club (AKC) scent work, is a dream come true for many dogs. From your dog’s point of view, the world is a glorious pot of swirling smells, and nothing makes a dog happier than sniffing and nose work. Scent work for dogs makes use of olfaction (the sense of smell), a dog’s superior sense.

Dog scent training and nosework games can start with tiny puppies. I have done early scent introduction (ESI) starting with 3-day-old puppies. After all, the puppies are already seeking out their dam and her nipples by using their noses to smell milk. Scent training for dogs is just building on what they already do by instinct from a young age.

For ESI, I expose each puppy to a different scent daily. It might be a leaf, hair from my barn cat, or whatever. Reactions from the puppies can be clear. They may ignore the object, push it away if they don’t like it, or do deep inhales for odors they like. Of course, this is not really scent training but simply honing on the puppy’s natural skills.

AKC Scent Work and Other Nosework Events

Dog sports now include plenty of fun games where your dog and his nose get to lead the way. For scent work and dog nosework competitions, your dog is trained to seek out different essential oils in low concentrations. Commonly used scents are birch, anise, and clove. A scented cotton swab is hidden in various places and the dog must find it. If you think this sounds like a drug dog searching for marijuana, you’re right.

Usually, the scents are paired with food for training, although some dogs prefer toys. Dogs are rewarded immediately “at the scent source” with their treats. No wonder these sports are listed among the top five favorite dog sports! Food and sniffing are two of most dogs’ favorite things.

Many new dog scentwork sport groups have appeared in the last few years. Competitions may include finding lost items, locating shed antlers, or doing the essential oils with different areas for hides. Hides can be indoors, outdoors, on vehicles, in containers. Among the groups offering these competitions are Canine Performance Events, the American Kennel Club (AKC), National Association of Canine Scent Work,  and the North American Sport Dog Association.

Why Dogs Excel at Scent Training

The average dog smells 1,000 to 10,000 times better than the average person. In their nasal cavities are over 100 million sensory receptor sites to track scents, while people have about 6 million. To analyze all the scents, canine brains have 40 times more capacity for olfaction than humans do.

Along with simply being able to pick up faint scents, dogs have excellent scent memory and delayed scent fatigue. Your dog may remember another dog by scent from one exposure years ago. While our brains shut off a smell quickly, our dogs continue to track that smell while managing many other odors.

Along with nostrils that pick-up scents independently, dogs also have a vomeronasal, or Jacobsen’s organ, located right behind the upper incisors that boosts their ability for scent work. Dogs can detect pheromones and tell if you are happy or sad just by scent. They can pick up low blood sugar and changes that indicate a seizure is coming.

It’s simply amazing what a canine nose can do, and it’s an incredible amount of fun for you and your dog to do canine scent training and nosework events.

Dramamine for Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Dramamine for dogs can relieve motion sickness.
Dramamine may help dogs who do not enjoy car rides, if the dog is suffering from motion sickness. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

Dramamine, a brand name for the drug dimenhydrinate, is an antihistamine that is used off-label in many dogs for vestibular problems, including carsickness and senior dog vestibular disease. With its antihistamine properties, this medication also may help with mild itching. For some dogs, it can act as a mild sedative, too.

Dramamine is not an FDA-approved medication for dogs, which means its use is considered off label, and there is no official Dramamine dosage for dogs. A better choice might be an FDA-approved treatment like Cerenia.

The dosage for Dramamine for a dog is based on the dog’s weight. Most veterinarians recommend a Dramamine dosage for dogs at 2 mgs to 4 mgs per pound of the dog’s body weight. Since the pills tend to come in 50 mg size, you will need a pill cutter to get down to a reasonable dose for small dog. Overdosing may cause poisoning.

Dramamine for Motion Sickness

Dramamine takes 30 to 45 minutes to take effect. If it helps your dog with motion sickness, you need to give it before you get in the car. Common Dramamine side effects noticed in dogs are sleepiness, a dry mouth with sticky saliva, and problems urinating.

Dramamine had drug interactions, particularly neurologic medications such as antidepressants. It can also interfere with allergy testing. Before using any medication, check with your veterinarian. Be sure to mention EVERYTHING your dog gets, which means food, treats, and all supplements and medications.

Dogs with some chronic health problems should not receive Dramamine. The list includes glaucoma, seizures, and cardiac conditions such as hypertension. It is of questionable use in a dog with any urinary problems as well.

Help for Dogs with Motion Sickness

What else can you do for a dog with motion sickness? Do your best on car trips to minimize turns and stops. The ideal road trip for these dogs is on a smooth highway – no potholes. Keep the car cool. Use the AC and put a fan on your dog’s crate if needed. Roll the windows down if your dog is safely crated and the weather is cool. Some dogs do best if they can see out, while others ride better if covered. Remember that a dog who has motion sickness will probably be uncomfortable on a boating expedition as well.

Some herbal mixtures, such as ginger, may help dogs who get carsick. Again, check with your veterinarian before you mix and match too many medications and supplements and be careful with dosages.

Osteochondritis Dissecans (OCD) in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
OCD in dogs is an orthopedic problem in dogs.
Diet make a difference in the development of osteochondritis dissecans, especially in large-breed puppies like these German Shepherds, so they need to be fed a diet made for puppies that will mature to a weight of 70 lbs. or more. Credit: Natalie Fobes | Getty Images

Osteochondritis dissecans, or OCD, is an orthopedic problem in dogs. It is a defect in the joint cartilage that causes pain and lameness. Without treatment, osteoarthritis will commonly develop with age. The most common location for OCD is in a dog’s shoulder joint, but it can also be found in elbows, hips, stifles, and hocks. Shoulders are the most common spot for osteochondritis dissecans, but they have the best prognosis for a sound, full life. OCD in elbows likely has lifelong effects.

Causes of OCD in Dogs

Causes of osteochondritis dissecans are plentiful and may have more than one trigger. This defect is most often seen in young, large-breed dogs, around the ages of 6 to 12 months. Males are more commonly affected than females.

Diet is a factor, especially if the pup has been fed a diet that is high in energy and protein. The calcium:phosphorus ratio is very important for these rapidly growing dogs. Toss into the mix a genetic OCD predisposition and wild exercise like allowing the pup to jump on and off beds or furniture or run excessively, and you have created the perfect conditions for OCD to develop.

Signs of OCD

Most cases of osteochondritis dissecans start with a mild limp or pain when the affected joint is handled or manipulated. The joint may be swollen and feel warm. Although the symptoms may seem to be in just one area, multiple joints can be involved.

The clinical condition starts with a simple crack in the joint cartilage that normally acts as a cushion between the bones of the joint. This crack can progress to a flap and leave a divot type lesion behind. The diseased cartilage piece may break loose and be free in the joint. The loose piece is known as a “joint mouse,” and it can cause severe pain and lameness.

Diagnosis of Osteochondritis Dissecans

OCD diagnosis is generally made via radiographs (X-rays) and a clinical exam.

If the osteochondritis dissecans is caught very early, crate rest and exercise restriction may allow the damaged cartilage to heal. Almost always, however, surgery is necessary to remove the damaged cartilage and clean up the area to remove any fragments. Postoperative recovery includes limiting exercise to allow the cartilage to heal.

The prognosis for osteochondritis dissecans can vary with the amount of damage and how long the joint has been affected.

Can Dogs Eat Cat Food?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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2
Dogs can eat cat food without adverse health risks.
Your dog will be attracted to your cat’s food, so it’s best to set the cat food bowl away from the dog’s reach. Credit: Ruslan Dashinsky | Getty Images

Yes, dogs can eat cat food. For many dogs, getting some cat food, especially canned cat food or wet cat food, is a gourmet treat. For some dogs, such as very ill or geriatric dogs without an appetite, your veterinarian may recommend trying cat food. But, you need to be cautious when feeding cat food to dogs. Canned cat food tends to have more protein and often more fat than dog foods, and that fat can make your dogs sick, causing things like pancreatitis, weight gain, liver disease.

Cat foods have a higher protein level than dog foods because cats use protein for energy and need the amino acids from meat to support their muscles and body functions. Cats are obligate carnivores, meaning they must eat meat to get reach their nutritional requirements, while dogs are omnivores, which means they can meet their needs with both plants and meats.

Dogs Can Eat Dry Cat Food

Dogs can eat dry cat food, too. It’s richer than dry dog food and makes nice, small, tasty training treats. Just don’t overdo it. It’s easy to do because most dogs really like cat food.

Dogs Can Eat Wet Cat Food

Wet cat food can come in handy for a dog with a poor appetite due to cancer, age, or any chronic health conditions. The added protein and fat make cat food smell better and taste better than many canine options. Used short term for these problems, it can help to turn a dog around who was not eating.

Cat food should not be your dog’s normal diet though. The higher levels of fat can lead to gastrointestinal upsets and even pancreatitis in susceptible dogs (looking at you, Schnauzers!). In addition, the extra protein can be difficult for a dog with liver or kidney problems to safely metabolize.

Cat Food Is Safe for a Dog

Still, if your dog snatches a little cat food occasionally, his biggest risk is getting a swat on the nose from your irritated cat.

The bottom line is not to panic if your dog makes a raid on your cat’s food bowl, but don’t encourage him to do so. Use cat food if you need to tempt your anorexic dog, but don’t use it as daily meals once he has recovered. If your dog is on a special/prescription diet for a health condition, avoid using any cat food at all unless you consult your veterinarian.

Dog Pain Medication: A Guide to Common Drugs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey
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1
Dog pain medication is prescribed to help dogs maintain quality of life while dealing with medical care or illness.
Not all pain medications for dogs are equally appropriate or effective. Talk to your veterinarian about your dog’s response to the medications they prescribe, so they can adjust the dosage and/or drug used if necessary. Photo by Westend61, Getty Images.

Dog pain medication can be divided into two broad categories: Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), which alleviate pain by reducing inflammation, and analgesics, which provide pain relief through a variety of mechanisms.

Pain medications for dogs are not interchangeable. Some pain relievers that you use for yourself can be harmful or even toxic to dogs. And an analgesic that was prescribed for another pet in the home may not be the right type or dose for the one who is currently exhibiting pain. When choosing the most effective medication for your dog, your veterinarian will weigh a number of factors, including your dog’s:

  • Age
  • Weight
  • Breed
  • Overall health
  • Kidney and liver function (based on blood test results)
  • The cause of the pain (arthritis, trauma, surgery?)
  • The part of the body that is affected (joints, musculoskeletal system, abdomen)
  • The type of pain (acute or chronic)
  • The intensity of the pain as evidenced by the dog’s behavior
  • The length of time that the dog is expected to need pain relief
Do Not Give Over-the-Counter Human Pain Medications to Your Dog

Most people have one or more NSAIDs or other pain relievers made for humans in their medicine cabinet, such as ibuprofen, naproxen, aspirin, or acetaminophen. Ibuprofen and naproxen should never be given to dogs. These drugs can cause kidney damage, liver damage, gastrointestinal ulcers, and seizures, depending on the size of your dog and how much he receives. Acetaminophen (common trade name Tylenol) is an analgesic that can cause serious side effects in dogs (and is fatal at any dose in cats and ferrets).

Aspirin is an over-the-counter NSAID that is available in both human and dog formulations. It was used in veterinary medicine for many years as a pain medication but its use is not without potential side effects. Even at therapeutic doses for pain relief, aspirin can cause gastrointestinal bleeding. Safer and more effective NSAIDs made just for dogs – such as carprofen, deracoxib, and firocoxib – have phased out the use of aspirin for pain relief by most veterinarians.

Dogs who have a disease that increases their risk of developing thromboemboli (clots within their blood vessels) may be prescribed aspirin, which interferes with platelet function to lower the risk of clots. The dose used for preventing thromboemboli is lower than the dose for reducing pain. Using aspirin for pain relief may put dogs at risk for excessive bleeding if they become injured or have surgery.

Sometimes we are so desperate to provide our dogs pain relief that we give them the only thing we have in our medicine cabinet that they can have: aspirin. Unfortunately, if you give your dog aspirin in the days before taking your dog to his veterinarian to determine the reason for his discomfort, the vet will be limited in what can be prescribed for your dog’s pain. If your veterinarian recommends starting an NSAID, your dog will need to be without any NSAID for 5 to 7 days from the last dose of aspirin before starting an NSAID made for dogs.

Nonsteroidal Anti-inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDs)

Inflammation is the body’s response to an injury or osteoarthritis (the breakdown of joint cartilage). Inflammation can be identified in the dog by five clinical signs: heat, redness, swelling, pain, and loss of function. When the insult to the body is acute, the inflammatory response causes blood vessels in the troubled area to dilate and increases their permeability. This allows protein-rich fluid to flood into the interstitial spaces, causing the tissue to swell. This fluid contains a mixture of components that help repair cellular damage and helps flush away injured and damaged cells – but sometimes this immune-system response may be excessive, causing more harm than good. Prolonged inflammation can cause persistent pain or swelling. Chronic inflammation can cause tissue destruction and fibrosis (tissue thickening or scarring).

NSAIDs reduce inflammation, which will often relieve the pain caused by the inflammation.

Using an NSAID dog pain medication is not without risk, but when given at an appropriate dose and used for as short a period as possible, the risk of developing side effects is low. Giving more than the labeled dose for any length of time increases the risk of an adverse event, such as gastrointestinal ulcers, liver damage, or kidney damage. Each NSAID has a narrow dosing range; never give more than the dose your veterinarian has prescribed.

A dog who is receiving an NSAID should not receive any other NSAID or a corticosteroid (such as prednisone) at the same time. It takes several days for a dog to clear the last dose of any NSAID from his body. A washout period of 5 to 7 days is recommended between stopping one NSAID and starting a different NSAID.

NSAIDs should be used cautiously or not at all in dogs who have kidney disease or liver disease. Your veterinarian will recommend a baseline chemistry panel to check for elevated kidney values or liver enzymes before prescribing an NSAID. Dogs receiving an NSAID daily for several weeks or more should have their bloodwork checked at regular intervals to ensure that their kidney values and liver enzymes remain stable.

Acetylsalicylic Acid

Common trade names: Aspirin.

Drug class: NSAID (COX inhibitor).

Indicated for: Relief of chronic or acute pain. Rarely used in veterinary medicine because of the potential for serious adverse effects, even at traditionally recommended dosages.

Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs who have a bleeding disorder (such as von Willebrand disease). Should be used with caution in dogs who have gastrointestinal ulcers, asthma, kidney disease, or liver disease.

Potential side effects: Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite. Can cause gastrointestinal ulceration. Can interfere with platelet function, resulting in spontaneous internal bleeding.

Formulations available: Although aspirin is available over-the-counter in formulations made for dogs, there are no forms of aspirin that are FDA-approved for use in dogs. Currently available as tablets and chewable tablets.

Carprofen

Common trade names: Rimadyl, Novox, Vetprofen.

Also known as: Zinecarp, Canidryl, Aventicarp, Rycarfa, Rimifin, Carpox, Tergive, Carprodyl, Carprieve, Norocarp, Quellin, Rovera, Levafen.

Drug class: NSAID (COX inhibitor).

Indicated for: Relief of pain and inflammation associated with osteoarthritis. Also prescribed for control of postoperative pain following surgery.

Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs who have a bleeding disorder (such as von Willebrand disease). Should be used with caution in senior dogs and in dogs who have inflammatory bowel disease, kidney disease, or liver disease.

Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, constipation, lethargy, and loss of appetite.

Formulations available: Caplets, tablets, and flavored chewable tablets. Also available as injection for veterinary use only.

(For more information about Carprofen, see “Carprofen Is an Anti-Inflammatory Drug for Dogs.”)

Deracoxib

Common trade name: Deramaxx.

Drug class: NSAID (COX inhibitor).

Indicated for: Relief of pain and inflammation associated with osteoarthritis. Also prescribed for control of postoperative pain following surgery.

Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs who have a bleeding disorder (such as von Willebrand disease). Should be used with caution in senior dogs and in dogs who have gastrointestinal ulcers, cardiovascular disease, kidney disease, or liver disease. Should not be used in dogs weighing less than 6.6 pounds or in puppies younger than 4 months of age.

Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, constipation, lethargy, and loss of appetite. Has been associated with causing gastrointestinal ulceration and intestinal perforation.

Formulations available: Flavored chewable tablets.

Firocoxib

Common trade name: Previcox.

Drug class: NSAID (COX inhibitor).

Indicated for: Relief of pain and inflammation associated with osteoarthritis. Also prescribed for control of postoperative pain following surgery. Is used for palliative treatment of transitional cell carcinoma of the urinary bladder.

Contraindications: Should be used with caution in senior dogs and in dogs who have gastrointestinal ulcers, cardiovascular disease, kidney disease, or liver disease.

Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, constipation, lethargy, and loss of appetite. Has been associated with causing gastrointestinal ulceration and intestinal perforation.

Formulations available: Flavored chewable tablets.

Grapiprant

Common trade names: Galliprant.

Drug class: NSAID (PGE2 antagonist).

Indicated for: Relief of pain and inflammation associated with osteoarthritis.

Contraindications: Should be used at lower than recommended doses in dogs who have the MDR1 (ABCB1) mutation. Should be used with caution in dogs who have cardiovascular disease, gastrointestinal disease, kidney disease, or liver disease. Should not be used in dogs who weigh less than 8 pounds or in puppies that are younger than 9 months of age.

Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, and loss of appetite.

Formulations available: Flavored tablets.

Meloxicam

Common trade names: Metacam.

Drug class: NSAID (COX inhibitor).

Indicated for: Relief of pain and inflammation associated with osteoarthritis. Also prescribed for control of postoperative pain following surgery.

Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs who have a bleeding disorder (such as von Willebrand disease). Should be used with caution in senior dogs and in dogs who have inflammatory bowel disease, gastrointestinal ulcers, kidney disease, or liver disease. Should not be used in puppies younger than 6 months of age.

Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, and loss of appetite.

Formulations available: Tablets, capsules and oral suspension. Also available as injection for veterinary use only.

Robenacoxib

Common trade name: Onsior.

Drug class: NSAID (COX inhibitor).

Indicated for: Relief of pain and inflammation associated with osteoarthritis. Also prescribed for control of postoperative pain following surgery.

Contraindications: Should be used with caution in senior dogs and in dogs who have gastrointestinal ulcers, cardiovascular disease, kidney disease, or liver disease. Should not be used in dogs who weigh less than 5.5 pounds or in puppies that are less than 4 months of age. Should not be used for more than three consecutive days.

Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, and loss of appetite.

Formulations available: Flavored tablets. Also available as injection for veterinary use only.

 

Analgesic Medications for Dogs

Analgesics provide pain relief by binding to pain receptors in the body. Unlike NSAIDs, analgesics do not reduce the inflammation that causes pain. But analgesics can be used very effectively when combined synergistically with NSAIDs to provide more complete pain relief. Using an analgesic with an NSAID can also reduce the amount of NSAID required or how often an NSAID is given.

It seems logical that if analgesics only relieve pain and NSAIDs relieve that inflammation that causes pain that giving an NSAID would always be an appropriate choice. But there are health conditions in which giving an NSAID is contraindicated. Your veterinarian may prescribe one or more analgesics in these circumstances.

Some analgesics used in dogs are controlled substances – medications that have been identified by the United States Drug Enforcement Agency (DEA) as having a high potential for abuse by humans. There are limits on how much of a controlled substance can be prescribed at one time. Pharmacies cannot accept a telephone request for a prescription for a controlled substance from a veterinarian; instead, a written script must be physically presented to the pharmacist filling the prescription.

Amantadine

Common trade names: Symmetrel.

Drug class: NMDA antagonist.

Indicated for: Relief of chronic pain. Used in conjunction with other analgesics; not typically used as a single agent for the control of pain. Can take up to 4 weeks of therapy to see an analgesic effect.

Contraindications: There is limited data on the use of amantadine in dogs; not much is known about any contraindications for its use.

Potential side effects: Agitation and diarrhea can sometimes be seen just after starting therapy; this typically resolves without intervention.

Formulations available: Capsules, tablets, and oral solution. Avoid the use of extended release tablets.

(For more information about Amantadine, see “Amantadine for Dogs: Now for Relief of Chronic Pain.”)

Gabapentin

Common trade names: Neurontin.

Drug class: Neuropathic pain analgesic. As of this writing, there are efforts underway in some states to add gabapentin to the controlled substance list.

Indicated for: Relief of chronic pain.

Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs who have kidney disease. Oral solutions made for humans that contain xylitol should be avoided in dogs.

Potential side effects: Sedation and ataxia (wobbly gait).

Formulations available: Capsules and tablets. Some oral solutions contain xylitol and should not be used in dogs. Avoid the use of extended release tablets.

(For more information about Gabapentin, see “Gabapentin for Dogs: What You Should Know.”)

Pregabalin

Common trade names: Lyrica.

Drug class: Neuropathic pain analgesic.

Indicated for: Relief of chronic pain.

Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs who have kidney disease. Oral solutions made for humans that contain xylitol should be avoided in dogs.

Potential side effects: Sedation and ataxia (wobbly gait). 

Formulations available: Capsules and oral solution. This is a controlled substance; prescription limitations apply and vary by state.

Tramadol

Common trade names: Ultram.

Drug class: Opioid analgesic.

Indicated for: Relief of chronic pain. More effective when combined with an NSAID or other analgesic drug. Can take up to 2 weeks of therapy to see an analgesic effect.

Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs who have a history of seizures.

Potential side effects: Sedation.

Formulations available: Tablets and oral solution. Avoid the use of extended release tablets. This is a controlled substance; prescription limitations apply and vary by state.

What Fruit Can Dogs Eat?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Dogs can eat the majority of fruit that humans eat in moderation.
Watermelon is a great fruit treat for your dog. Credit: Luliia Bondar | Getty Images

What fruit can dogs eat? Grapes and grape derived products like raisins are not safe. Aside from that notable exception many common fruits are safe for our dogs. Some fruits can be added to your dog’s regular meals in small amounts, and many make tasty treats. Like any treat, though, don’t over feed them.

Fruit  Dogs Can Eat

Some fruits that dogs can eat safely are:

Offer your dog small pieces of fruit to find out what he likes. Some dogs enjoy many fruits, while others have more particular tastes. You can even use them to make yummy frozen treats.

Many fruits have a high sugar content, and coconut has high fat content. Stick to small amounts of these fruits, especially if your dog is prone to weight gain. Choose fresh fruits, not canned or frozen, which may have a lot of added sugar.

Can Dogs Have Grapes?

No, dogs cannot have grapes. The tartaric acid in grapes, raisins, and sultanas are toxic to dogs and can cause kidney failure.

Is That Dog Fortunate or Tragic?

By
Nancy Kerns
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14
Dogs who live on the streets with their people may not have much beyond love.
Many dogs who live on the streets with their people seem better adjusted and better behaved than dogs whose lives are “easier.” Photo by RichLegg, Getty Images

My father, a nonconformist from his youth to his death, frequently used to say, “Everyone has their own reality.” Since his reality was augmented by his daily intake of a certain leafy herb, I used to take the grammar and the sentiment with a grain of salt. But the older I get, the more I appreciate what he meant – even without herbal assistance.

For example, sometimes when I see a dog trotting alongside a road in my rural part of northern California, I can tell that wandering is routine to that dog – he’s not lost, he hasn’t been abandoned; he’s out doing his usual rounds. Whereas the friend sitting in the passenger seat of my car, seeing the same dog, will probably say, “Stop! We should help that dog!” She sees him as in need of immediate assistance. We’re experiencing the same visual input, but our realities are completely different. Which one of us is right? Which one is seeing things the way they really are? (Well, sometimes it’s obvious that a dog is lost and in need of assistance, and I’ve rescued more than a few of them!)

There’s a similar effect at work when one of my dogs is curled up on top of a nest he’s made of all the throw pillows and blankets on my sofa. This vision will make me coo; I am happy that my dog looks so happy and comfortable. I see a secure, happy dog. The same sight will raise my husband’s blood pressure. He’ll likely roll his eyes and say, “Get off the couch! We’ve got dog beds in every room for that!” He sees a dog who is spoiled and opportunistic. (Full disclosure: My dogs are welcome on the couch, and they know that most of the time, they can ignore my husband’s directives. We have negotiated this agreement over the 25 years we’ve been married.)

A well groomed and cared for poodle may not enjoy the stress of grooming or performing.
It takes many, many hours of grooming in order to present a dog in this condition in the show ring – and the dogs don’t particularly enjoy any part of the process. Photo by Justyna Olichwier / 500px/Getty Images

Here’s another situation where the objective truth is hard to determine. Once many years ago, I had the opportunity to attend the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show at Madison Square Garden in New York City. Whereas many people saw fabulously well cared-for dogs with fantastic shiny coats, I saw unhappy, stressed, shut-down dogs. The area where the dogs were kept and prepared for the show rings was so hot, loud, and crowded, I started feeling like I was going to have a panic attack. I left the show after just an hour or two and changed my flight home to that evening, instead of the next day as previously planned. I am still haunted by the overwhelming impression of hopeless resignation I had from the dogs I saw there.

What about the dogs who accompany unhoused people? Some might feel sorry for them, having to spend their lives wandering the streets, sleeping in rough situations, and subsisting on a diet of whatever their owners are eating. But others may see dogs who are seemingly completely content to be with their owners 24/7, unfazed by anything and everything happening in their environment. They get plenty of fresh air and exercise and tons of attention from their people; there are plenty of family dogs who aren’t so lucky!

Here’s a classic “different realities” scenario: I see my sister’s little dogs as fat – hideously obese, even. She sees them as happy!

In this case, at least, I think we both have a fairly good grasp on reality!

What canine encounter have you seen very differently from others around you?

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