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What Is a Veterinary Behaviorist?

A consultation with a board certified veterinary behaviorist can help solve the most troublesome dog behaviours.
Aggression, self-mutilation, phobic or extreme fear, obsessive or compulsive behaviors, and severe separation anxiety are the behaviors that most frequently prompt a consultation with a veterinary behaviorist. Photo by smrm1977, Getty Images

All experts approach problems from the perspective of their education and experience. Given a dog with problematic behavior, a trainer may recommend equipment changes, behavior modification, and management steps. A veterinarian may prescribe medications that reduce anxiety and increase social behavior.

However, behavioral problems can result from neurochemical imbalances, medical conditions, past life experiences, current living conditions, and every combination of these. Veterinary behaviorists are uniquely positioned to use tools from both medicine and behavior science to most accurately diagnose and efficiently treat dogs with severely problematic behavior, such as aggression, self-mutilation, phobic or extremely fearful behavior, obsessive or compulsive behaviors, and severe separation anxiety.

One of the most valuable benefits of working with a veterinary behaviorist is their extensive knowledge of how psychotropic medications can further your dog’s behavior modification program. (By law, only veterinarians can prescribe or give you prescription medication for your dog.)

Some owners are resistant to using behavior medication for their dogs. Sometimes their resistance stems from working with a veterinarian who wasn’t experienced enough with behavior-modifying medications to tweak the dog’s prescriptions for the best results. The client’s dog may have been given medication that was too strong (“I don’t want my dog to be a zombie!”) or too weak (“It didn’t do anything!”).

This is sad, because often medication can make the most impactful contribution to improving the dog’s quality of life. In many cases, the right medication(s) can make a good training professional’s behavior-modification program much more successful, much sooner. If you are working with a skilled training professional, the addition of the right medication might make the visit with the behaviorist unnecessary!

But if neither your trainer nor your vet have answers to your dog’s challenging behavior – or when they are failing to work together to provide an all-encompassing treatment plan for your dog – a consultation with a veterinary behaviorist is well worth the cost.

THE TERM “BEHAVIORIST” IS IN WIDE BUT VARIABLE USE

Would it surprise you to learn that literally anyone can call himself or herself a behaviorist? The title means nothing. There are any number of dog trainers – qualified and unqualified, educated and uneducated – who call themselves behaviorists. However, here are a few titles that include “behaviorist” that actually do mean something:

-Veterinary behaviorist. Only licensed veterinarians who have been certified by the can use the title of veterinary behaviorist. The formal term is Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVB). You can find veterinary behaviorists at dacvb.org/search/.

-There is another professional organization that has “veterinary” and “behavior” in its title – the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) – but it does not provide certification of any kind. Veterinarians and persons holding a PhD in animal behavior or a related field may join this membership organization, but it does not confer certifications or presuppose a level of expertise in animal behavior. Behavior consultants who are members of AVSAB are listed on its website (avsab.org/directory/).

-Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) and Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (ACAAB). These are scientists, educators, or other animal professionals with advanced academic backgrounds in the principles of animal behavior. Certification for these titles is provided by the Animal Behavior Society, which describes its certificants this way: “A professional applied animal behaviorist has demonstrated expertise in the principles of animal behavior, in the research methods of animal behavior, in the application of animal behavior principles to applied behavior problems, and in the dissemination of knowledge about animal behavior through teaching and research.” You can find these professionals at animalbehaviorsociety.org/web/committees-applied-behavior-directory.php.

-Certified Dog Behavior Consultant (CDBC) and Certified Animal Behavior Consultant (CABC). These certifications are bestowed by the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC), which offers animal credentialing examinations for several animal species and specialties. Obtaining a CDBC credential indicates a superior level of knowledge as well as skill in practical application of behavior change principles following least intrusive, minimally aversive (LIMA)-based strategies.

What to Expect From a Veterinary Behaviorist Consultation

A veterinary behaviorist can provide a combination of behavior training and medicine that makes diagnosis and treatment quicker.
It’s often faster and more efficient to have the same professional provide behavior modification and medical recommendations. This helps the dog feel better sooner, too! Photo by Justin Paget, Getty Images

A particularly thorough medical and behavior history is the first prerequisite for any veterinary behaviorist consultation, with the behavior history being the longest and most detailed part of the intake form. When did the problematic behavior first start, how often does it happen, and how has it changed?

The behaviorist also needs to know what interventions have been tried and how the dog responded to those treatments. The intake form will also ask the owner, “What are your goals for your dog? What outcome do you hope for?”

If the problematic behavior is unlikely to be observed in a veterinary office setting, the owner will be asked to try to capture video of the dog while he’s displaying the troubling behavior. Video can often provide the most valuable clues to the causes or significant contributors to the dog’s behavior.

After reviewing all of the above, the veterinary behaviorist will then meet with the dog and owner in order to observe the dog’s behavior first hand (or at least via a video conference).

At the end of the first visit, the client is usually given some management strategies that can be implemented right away – especially if the dog’s behavior has the potential for endangering anyone.

Afterward, the veterinary behaviorist will prepare a comprehensive treatment plan for the dog’s owner, which is typically reviewed and discussed in a subsequent appointment. The plan may include a request for medical tests (or further medical tests) in order to diagnose or rule out medical contributors to the problematic behavior. Usually, it will also include recommendations for the owner to undertake behavior modification exercises under the guidance of a training professional working with or recommended by the veterinary behaviorist.

The treatment plan may also recommend the use of supportive therapies such as supplements, nutritional therapy, and/or prescription medications (when appropriate).

Because there are few veterinary behaviorists, it’s impossible for many dog owners to book an in-person consultation with one. That’s why most of these professionals also offer phone or video consultations with their clients’ veterinarians. Instead of seeing the dog and owner, they will review the veterinarian’s report of the dog’s issues and directly communicate with the dog’s veterinarian to offer suggestions for further medical testing, medication, and behavioral interventions.

HOW TO BECOME A VETERINARY BEHAVIORIST

Veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians who have achieved board certification in the specialty of veterinary behavior. Certification takes a minimum of three years of study and training after a candidate has obtained a veterinary graduate degree.  The certifying board for this specialty is the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB); certificants, who are known as Diplomates, may use the initials DACVB along with DVM after their names.

To gain board certification, candidates must complete at least one year of internship or primary care practice. They must also undertake additional behavior-specific training, which includes at least three years of case supervision by an established DACVB. They must also conduct original behavior research that earns publication in a peer-reviewed journal, author three formal case reports that are approved by a review committee of Diplomates, and pass a rigorous two-day board examination administered by the ACVB.

There are only about 95 DACVBs located throughout the world (though other countries also certify veterinary behaviorists).

Some veterinary behaviorists have a solo practice, where they provide clients with support and referrals to other training or medical professionals as necessary. Others work in group practices, where other staff veterinarians can provide any diagnostic tests that the veterinary behaviorist recommends and staff trainers will work with the client and the client’s dog on behavior modification exercises.

Sample Case History

We asked a veterinary behaviorist to describe a typical case to illustrate how these professionals draw on their medical and behavioral expertise differently than their vet or trainer peers. Chris Pachel, DVM, DACVB, CABC, owner of the Animal Behavior Clinic in Portland, Oregon, accommodated us with a description of one of his veterinarian-to-veterinarian consultations.

The patient was a 3-year-old, intact male Labrador who had perpetrated a number of troubling episodes of what was described as unpredictable and unprovoked aggression in his home. His humans were highly experienced dog owners who were active in dog sports and had other dogs in the home, including additional dogs who would sometimes stay with them in a casual boarding scenario.

While the patient was usually a social butterfly with an affable temperament, the owners described a number of incidents where he had suddenly behaved aggressively. Fortunately, they had three of these incidents captured on video, thanks to their home security system.

One incident, where the patient became aggressive with his male owner, occurred in the backyard of the home when other dogs were present. In another incident, the dog aggressed toward that man’s mother when she moved a chair that was three or four feet from the dog. In the third incident captured on video, the patient aggressed toward a visiting dog.

Since the patient was perfectly social and appropriate in between these incidents – even in situations that were identical to the conditions in which he showed aggression – the owners brought the dog to their vet. About six months prior to the first aggressive incident, the dog had slipped and fallen with his front legs splayed out in an unnatural position. His owners were concerned that he might be experiencing pain that caused him to lash out at others.

On physical exam, their vet did find some pain and prescribed pain medication. The dog’s pain went away, but the troubling behavior did not. So, with the clients’ approval, the veterinarian scheduled a consultation with Dr. Pachel.

“It’s always necessary to have someone provide a thorough physical examination, but it doesn’t have to be me,” Dr. Pachel explains. In this case, he discussed the results of the primary care veterinarian’s physical exam, neurologic exam, and notes regarding the dog’s response to pain medication; he also read the behavior history and viewed the owner’s video clips.

From early on, Dr. Pachel suspected a medical cause for the aggression. “What stood out to me was the inconsistent relationship between the antecedents (things that happened around the dog prior to the aggression) and the behavior,” Dr. Pachel says.

“Seeing the variability and expression of those aggressive behaviors, and understanding that the dog has been in identical situations hundreds of times without eliciting any aggression – the most notable thing about the incidents were how inconsistent they were. That increased my level of suspicion that something internal, not external, was driving the incidents. The inconsistency also made me think about potential causes that have a waxing and waning, variable expression, such as hormonal issues or endocrine- related disorders.”

Dr. Pachel first suggested that the dog’s vet run a comprehensive thyroid profile (laboratory test). Dogs whose bodies produce too much or too little thyroid often experience changes in behavior and coping skills. However, the test results were normal.

Next, he considered endocrine conditions that could have an intermittent influence, impacting the dog’s ability to respond to mild provocations and stress. He suggested testing the dog for Addison’s disease – which may have appeared to the dog’s primary care vet as a stretch. “The dog had never had an Addisonian crisis (collapse, lethargy, dehydration), his electrolytes were normal – there were none of the hints in his bloodwork that would make you want to run an ACTH stim test (a test that demonstrates the capacity of the dog’s adrenal glands to produce cortisol),” describes Dr. Pachel. “It was the waxing and waning nature of the aberrant behavior and lack of response to other treatments that led me in that direction.”

While he may have thought the test was a shot in the dark, when the results came back, the dog’s primary care vet was happy to report that the picture was now clear: The dog had Addison’s disease, a deficiency of the hormones that regulate electrolytes, blood pressure, hydration, metabolism, and … stress responses! Addison’s patients require lifelong supplementation of those hormones, but thankfully, with treatment, the dog’s troubling behaviors stopped.

Is it just marketing?

It bears repeating: Anyone can call themselves a behaviorist. The term doesn’t guarantee that they are educated or experienced with complex behavior problems. When hiring a dog trainer, we recommend you choose a behavior professional who is certified by and/or a member of one of the organizations we list here: whole-dog-journal.com/training/find-the-best-trainer-for-you-and-your-dog.

Any ethical behavior professional will explore your dog’s behavior with you, help with behavior modification if they can, and refer you to a veterinary behaviorist if they realize your dog’s issues are beyond their experience and capabilities, or if their efforts to help are not successful.

 

Be Alert But Do Not Spread Panic

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Pet food related illnesses are relatively rare. They need to be reported, but reports need to be reliable.
If your dog usually has a good appetite but suddenly refuses to eat his food, don’t dress it up with yummy additives; if there is something wrong with it, and he gets sick from it, you’ll feel terrible later. Offer it to him at another meal time, and if he still refuses it, don’t feed any more of it to him! Photo by Os Tartarouchos, Getty Images

Do you remember the pet food disaster that sickened or killed thousands of dogs and cats in 2007? Reports of pets with sudden kidney failure began to emerge in early March of that year; the number of sick pets ballooned by the end of that month.

At the time, it seemed like it took forever for the Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (FDA CVM) to determine which of the reports had credence and which illnesses were related, that there was a link to the foods that the sick pets had been fed, and to determine what those diets – made by dozens of companies – had in common. In reality, though, it had taken only a few weeks to identify the culprit – ingredients that were tainted with melamine, which caused acute kidney damage – and a few more weeks to identify and recall the products that contained those ingredients.

Part of the confusion in the early days of the disaster could be traced to the flood of reports of sick cats and dogs, which overwhelmed the FDA. It seemed like anyone with a dog or cat who had been sick from mid-2006 to the end of 2007 became convinced that tainted foods had been responsible for. And who could blame them? Especially when the pet food companies all seemed to take defensive “It couldn’t have been us!” postures – at least, until the full reach of the contaminated ingredients was known.

A month or so ago, rumors began flying about sick and dying pets and a possible connection to the foods they are being fed. Social media is causing the reports to proliferate exponentially, even though there doesn’t (yet) seem to be any pattern to the maladies described. I’m monitoring a Facebook page where people are sharing stories about their pets’ illnesses, and they are all over the place, describing a constellation of symptoms. Early reports focused on Purina products, but now the reports implicate foods from dozens of manufacturers. I worry that all the noise will slow down the investigators at the FDA.

If your dog seems to be ill, lethargic, or otherwise not himself, get him to a vet and stop giving whatever you are feeding him. If you suspect the food, don’t feed it, but put it somewhere safe in case you need to send some away for testing. If he recovers, and you give him more of the food and the symptoms recur, get back to the vet and report this to the FDA CVM through this link. And if you buy a new bag of food and your dog won’t eat it, see “Dog Sniffing But Not Eating.

Give Them Time!

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When you bring home a dog from a rescue or shelter they need time.
We won’t really know what kind of dog he is for weeks or months; we need to give him time and space to learn all about him. But I suspect that Chief is going to make the right family very happy.

Today I am dog-sitting Chief, a 1-year-old German Shepherd-mix from my local shelter – just for the day. He’s actually being fostered by my favorite person at the shelter, my friend Lynee.

Chief was brought to the shelter over a year ago as a young pup. As yet ANOTHER uneducated, no-manners, anxious, all-black dog in a shelter full of them, he has lingered and lingered. He got adopted once but was brought back because the family’s old dog didn’t like him. (Few old dogs like wild young dogs with no social skills, especially within days of having the wild youngster arrive in their homes.)

Recently, Chief got adopted again – but he was so overwhelmed in the new family’s home that he hid behind the couch and wouldn’t come out. When the family tried to insist, reaching behind the couch with a leash, he growled at them. Since the family brought him home on a Saturday, and this happened on a Sunday, when they called the shelter in an apparent panic that the dog was vicious, the message on the shelter’s answering machine said, “In an animal-related emergency, call the (local) police department…” So they did!

Fortunately, the police contacted the animal control officer who was on call, and he went to the family’s house to pick up Chief. (Literally. He picked up the 60-pound dog and carried him to the animal control truck. He reported that Chief was petrified.)

Worried that two bad experiences in homes reduced the odds that he would get a third chance at a family, Lynee took Chief home last weekend. She reported that he had to be pulled out of her car, but he followed her into and then around the inside of her home like he was glued to her side. At first, he was too afraid to go outside to go to the bathroom, but she encouraged him, and, partly lifting him by his harness to get him out the door, pulled him outdoors. Once there, he went potty, and then rushed back into the house.

Lynee stayed home with Chief for three days. She said that every day he made progress. After that first time being lifted/pushed outdoors, he went outside to potty with just encouragement. He wouldn’t eat food or treats the first day, ate only canned food the second day, but ate kibble with just a little canned food mixed in on day three. He wouldn’t interact with her other dogs on day one, but by day three was playing chase games outside.

On day four, Lynee and her husband lifted Chief into their car and took him and their oldest dog for a short field trip to our local wildlife area. They let him explore on a long line and he waded into the river and enjoyed sniffing all the interesting smells. He got into the car on his own power for the trip home.

Both of the families who adopted Chief before were told that he had been brought into the shelter as a puppy, and didn’t know anything else. That he was undersocialized and essentially didn’t know anything about the world outside nor any dogs other than dogs he was kenneled with in the shelter. And yet neither family gave him the time and space to acclimate and learn about the world outside a shelter.

Lynee had to go to work today, and she didn’t want to leave Chief home alone all day; nor did she want to bring him back to the shelter. So she asked if I could do a little daycare duty. Of course! This will give Chief even more experience in yet another environment – but a safe, non-demanding space, where no one will have any expectations of him and he can observe everything in the environment without pressure.

I met Chief a month or so ago at the shelter, when Lynee had him in an exercise yard. My impression of him then was of a hyper but nice young dog – just what you would expect of a dog who had grown up in a loud, busy shelter. So far, walking around my property and laying in my office as I write this, he’s calm and quietly observing everything. He’s taking treats from me, and hasn’t been too afraid to enter and exit the outbuilding where I work. And this transformation is after just three days in Lynee’s home.

When you bring a dog home from a rescue or shelter – or anywhere, actually! – give them space and time! Be friendly and encouraging, but don’t loom or fuss over them. Try not to make demands on them at first, but reinforce every behavior you like to see. Set up the environment (with pens or gates) so they can’t get into places or getting into things you don’t want them near, so you don’t have to scare them by rushing them out of those spaces. Keep in mind that they might not know anything about human cars, homes, or other animals, and they may react with fear, and yes, even growling. Remember, a growl means, “I need some space!” It’s meant as a distance-creating message. It doesn’t mean they don’t like you or plan to attack you!

There has been a “3-3-3” meme going around the shelter and rescue community for a while that says something like, “The first three days with your newly adopted dog should be used to adjust, the next three weeks for training and bonding, and the next three months for continued training and socialization.” Our contributing editor Pat Miller hates this meme and wrote an article with her preferred version of the good intentions behind the meme: Give your new dog all the space and time they need to decompress and get to know you. Sometimes this happens quickly – even immediately. But take it from Chief: Sometimes you just need a little more time.

Why Is My Female Dog Peeing On My Bed?

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A female dog peeing on your bed can multiple causes, none of which are spiteful.
Don’t get mad at your housetrained dog for peeing on your bed; this behavior is almost never done on purpose. Dogs may leak urine for any number of reasons; your job is to get her to a veterinarian to find out the cause! Photo by Gajus, Getty Images

Your dog has just woken up from her nap on the bed when you notice a suspicious wet spot where she was laying. Running your hand through the spot followed by a tentative sniff of your fingers reveals that the wet spot is urine. After tossing the bedding in the washing machine, you are left wondering why your otherwise house-trained female dog is peeing on your bed in her sleep. There are several reasons for a female dog to start peeing in her sleep.

Reasons your dog might be peeing in her sleep

Any condition that alters a dog’s ability to completely empty her bladder can cause her to urinate while she sleeps. These conditions include urinary tract infections, bladder stones, tumors of the bladder or urethra, and congenital malformations of the bladder.

Arthritis and senility in older dogs may cause urine leakage while sleeping. Dogs with arthritic hips and knees may find it difficult to maintain their urination posture long enough to completely empty their bladder. Canine senility may impair a dog’s ability to remember when to go outside and urinate. Both conditions can lead to a dog falling asleep with a bladder that isn’t empty and potentially cause urine to leak out while they sleep.

Any medical condition that causes increased thirst and urination may lead to nap time urine leakage. These conditions include (but are not limited to) diabetes, kidney disease, and hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s syndrome).

Spay incontinence (also known as urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence) is caused by decreased muscle tone of the urethral sphincter. The urethral sphincter is the muscular valve the keeps urine in the bladder until a dog is ready to pee. As the name suggests, this is a condition that affects primarily spayed female dogs (although a small percentage of neutered male dogs can also be affected).

What to do when your dog pees in her sleep

If your dog is peeing in her sleep, make an appointment with her veterinarian. (While you’re waiting for an appointment, you may want to order some dog diapers. There are disposable and washable/reusable products especially for female dogs available online.)

The vet may want to collect a sterile urine sample for urinalysis and a bacterial urine culture. Radiographs (X-rays) may be recommended to look for bladder stones or tumors and to screen the hips and knees for arthritis. Bloodwork may also be recommended to look for causes of increased thirst and urination. If no underlying problem is found, a medication trial for treating spay incontinence may be prescribed.

Don’t overreact to a wet spot! Stray urine isn’t normal, but if you work with your veterinarian to determine the cause, chances are strong that a solution will follow.

Ear Mites in Dogs

Ear mites in dogs are one of many potential causes of ear discomfort.
Not all dirty or infected ears are due to ear mites. If your dog is shaking his head or scratching at his ears, see your veterinarian. It’s important to treat medical conditions quickly and appropriately. Photo by Zonica, Getty Images

Are itchy, stinky ears interfering with your dog’s daily dose of fun? A quick internet search might lead you to ear mites in dogs as the culprit. You can try administering an ear mite medication in your dog’s ears to alleviate his discomfort. But before you reach for that over-the-counter ear mite medication, you should know more about ear mites in dogs, and learn when to call in a professional (in other words, your dog’s veterinarian!).

Otodectes cynotis is an ear mite that infects the ear canals of dogs, cats, rabbits, and ferrets. Although this species of ear mite prefers these three species of mammals, any mammalian species will satisfy its needs for survival. It survives by ingesting the dead skin cells and ceruminous exudate (ear wax) that line the ear canals.

Symptoms of ear mites in dogs

Ear mites in dogs cause a noticeable discharge that resembles coffee grounds.
It’s important to treat infections of any kind with the appropriate medication; otherwise the infection may drag on, causing needless suffering and side effects. Photo by Evgenia Glinskaia. Getty Images

Ear mites in dogs cause an inflammatory reaction in their ear canals. This is what causes your dog to scratch at his ears and shake his head. The ceruminous glands that line your dog’s ear canals ramp up production of even more ear wax to drive out the ear mites. That smelly, dark brown, crumbly discharge in your dog’s ears is a combination of ear wax, ear mites, and their excrement. It often resembles the color and texture of coffee grounds.

Dogs who have ear mites will often develop a secondary bacterial and/or yeast infection in their ears. This can change the color and texture of the ear discharge from crumbly brown to creamy yellow or green. Sometimes the discharge may be mixed with blood if your dog scratches his ears so hard that they bleed.

If it becomes too crowded inside your dog’s ears, then some of the mites will leave the ear canals to find more spacious living quarters. Ear mites can live on the skin surface outside of your dog’s ears, snacking on skin oils and dead skin cells. They can be found crawling on the skin around the ears and on the neck and face. When your dog curls up in a ball to sleep, the mites can crawl out of the ears onto the skin of the rear end or tail. Mites will cause itchiness wherever they reside, so dogs with ear mites may scratch and develop skin redness and bald spots in areas besides their ears.

The only way to accurately diagnose an ear mite infestation is to examine a sample of your dog’s ear discharge under a microscope. The average length of an ear mite is only three-tenths of a millimeter. While this is too small to be seen by most people’s unaided eyes, ear mites can be easily spotted under a low-power microscope lens.

Treatment for ear mites in dogs

There are several treatments available to rid your dog of ear mites. But the only dogs who should receive treatment for ear mites are ones who have been diagnosed with ear mites or who live in a home with a pet who has been diagnosed with ear mites. Ear infections caused by bacteria, yeast, or a combination of bacteria and yeast can look similar to ear mite infestations.

It is important to know what you are treating before you treat. Using the incorrect treatment can worsen the underlying problem, cause more pain for your dog, and may lead to hearing loss or deafness. If your dog is scratching at his ears, shaking his head, and having discharge from his ears, have your dog examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible to determine the best course of treatment.

How do dogs get ear mites?

Ear mites spend their entire life cycle on one or more host animals. Ear mites can live for a few days in the environment but cannot survive without being on a host animal.

Ear mites spread by crawling between animals. They cannot hop or jump. To become infested with ear mites, a dog must have direct contact either with another animal who has ear mites or the gunk that recently came out of an infected animal’s ears.

How to prevent ear mites in dogs

Regularly use a flea or heartworm preventative that contains an ingredient shown to be effective against ear mites, such as Revolution, Advantage Multi, Interceptor, Nexgard, Bravecto, or Simparica.

If there are cats in the home who venture outside, regularly use a flea preventative on those cats that contains an ingredient shown to be effective against ear mites, such as Revolution, Advantage Multi, or Bravecto.

If there are ferrets in the home who venture outside on a harness and leash or rabbits in the home who spend time outdoors in a hutch or pen, talk to your veterinarian about applying Revolution monthly to these pets. This is an off-label use of Revolution in these species and must be prescribed and dosed correctly by your veterinarian.

Get Your Puppy Used to Body Handling

Teaching a puppy to be comfortable with human handling can build the basis for lifelong positive interactions.
This little boy has a special relationship with his puppy, so he’s the perfect one to give her this massage that includes the tender ear area. Look how relaxed she is! That’s what we want. Photo by Whitney Klinke.

If I ask 10 new puppy owners what they plan to focus on at first, none of them will answer “body handling.” That’s a shame, because one of the kindest things you can do for your puppy – and for your future benefit! – is to help him feel calm about being handled in all the various ways he will experience in his future life with you.

Typically, when a puppy needs a complicated harness put on, muddy paws wiped off, or an ear cleaned out, we humans tend to just hold him still and do it. We don’t bother to slow down and wonder how exactly this new experience feels to the puppy. If we did, we’d realize that this unusual handling – something that does not happen naturally on Planet Dog – may make our puppy anywhere from uncomfortable to downright frightened.

Think I’m being overly sensitive? Think the puppy just has to cope? Well, sure. The little puppy does just have to cope, because we can manhandle him at this point. But someday he’ll be an adult, with a strong jaw and teeth capable of damage. That’s when it becomes crystal clear that it would have been smart to teach him that all of this handling is nothing to be anxious or defensive about.

I recommend making a plan to teach your puppy to enjoy human touch as much as possible. By intentionally creating a strongly positive association with body handling, you’ll make your own life easier while setting the stage for less stressful (and cheaper!) handling at the vet or the groomer. The first step is to learn how and where he naturally likes to be touched.

What Kind of Touch Does Your Puppy Like?

Getting your puppy to learn to be relaxed and enjoy handling pays dividends when it's time to groom and otherwise handle them as adults.
This puppy is very relaxed on her owner’s lap, as she is gently massaged in her favorite manner. We don’t want to ruin this routine by suddenly grabbing feet and ears! Instead, experiment with a gentle touch of a foot, followed by a return to the beloved massage. Photo by Taylor Fellin.

Have you ever gotten a massage that you hated? Maybe it was too hard, too soft, too fast, too variable, or too much in one spot. We all have our preferences – and so do our dogs. But people often miss dogs’ subtle reactions and continue petting even as a dog flinches away. Alas, that dog may be learning she has to advocate more clearly, perhaps with her teeth, later on.

Let’s avoid that! Instead, look hard for those body language clues, and use that information to adjust your style. Is the puppy leaning into the touch, or looking away and pulling out of reach? As a starting point, keep in mind that most dogs prefer slow, consistent strokes with gentle pressure. (Without realizing this, many people seem to go for frenzied, hard patting, or light feathery touches – both of which seem to bug many dogs.) As for location, many dogs lean into butt scratches but shift away from head pats.

The bottom line: Become a connoisseur of your puppy’s favorite way of being touched. Help guide other family members and friends in her orbit: “Oh, hey, you know what she really likes? Watch this.” Soon you have a puppy trotting happily over to people rather than scooting away from outreached hands. This is huge, folks. Take time with this wonderful step that can pay off in a friendly puppy who looks forward to engagement.

This consent-based approach to petting goes for picking up, too. It is hard to resist picking up a cute puppy all the time, but try, especially at first. Some puppies sadly learn to flee from their family members (or growl at them) because they know they’ll soon be trapped in somebody’s arms! Take the time to let the pup choose and soon you may have a pup who does indeed love being picked up. (See “How to Pick Up a Puppy,” May 2022.)

Gently, Gradually Handle Feet, Ears, Mouth

Once you’ve learned how to create a great petting experience for your particular puppy, it’s time to slowly push the envelope. Obviously, vets and groomers need good access to a dog’s ears, eyes, mouth, and feet – all of which are often no-go zones at first from a dog’s perspective. You can work to change that. Here’s how to begin:

  • Create a daily practice of finding your pup when he’s sleepy and calm – maybe it’s while you’re watching TV at night – and giving the kind of massage session you’ve learned that he enjoys.
  • As he relaxes, experiment with gently touching the ears for just a second . . . then quickly go back to regular massage. If there is little or no reaction, go ahead and increase that ear duration to a few seconds. Still OK? Then go ahead and incorporate ear massage into your regular daily massage session.
  • Slowly, as the days and weeks go on, repeat this process for mouth/teeth, eye area, and feet. Don’t get ahead of yourself; if you try to make too much “progress,” you may ruin your lovely massage tradition! Ideally you can get to a place where the daily massage is a time to  deepen the lesson  that it’s actually quite fine to be touched in all of those tricky places.
  • Once things are going that well, experiment with being even more invasive. Rather than just touching or massaging, go ahead and look in that ear for a second, or lift up that gum to examine the teeth for a moment. Whenever you take a step forward like that, quickly go back to calming massage before pup even has a chance to think about it. This is a classic go-slow-to-go-fast situation. If you rush into doing a full pretend exam, you may set back the all-important level of trust.
#1 Rule is Maintain Trust

My worry in writing this piece is that well-meaning folks will leap into this effort with too much gusto. They’ll jump into the pretend vet visit on Day #1, restraining their pup and poking into ears – which will result in a pup who’s conflicted about their own person’s outstretched hands. Please hold back! Go slowly. I want your puppy to always think “Yay!” at your approach.

Trouble? Add Treats & Verbal Narration

Above I’ve outlined how to proceed if your pup calmly accepts each new level of handling. But what if he doesn’t? Most dogs have at least one fairly sensitive spot. What if, when you lightly touch a finger to their paw, they yank it away every time?

That’s when I bring in treats for some counter conditioning. I personally don’t start with food because sometimes it creates a level of excitement that interferes with progress. However, sometimes I clearly need some help. Cheese to the rescue!

Actually, cheese and Mr. Rogers. When dogs are nervous about things, I rely on the “Mr. Rogers Hack” from the Family Dog Mediation course presented by trainer Kim Brophey, CPDT-KA, CDBC. Since dogs have the receptive verbal ability of a human toddler, it is incredibly effective to use our words to help them better anticipate what’s next. So in this case I grab a tiny bite of cheddar, and say, “It’s OK, I’m just going to touch your paw.” The second after the smallest of touches, I pop the cheddar in the puppy’s mouth. At first the pup has no idea what those words mean, but soon they come to convey that a delicious treat will follow an innocuous paw touch. I repeat that until – ideally – I have a puppy who can’t wait to come running when I say I want to touch his paw. It becomes a game.

Getting Comfortable with Grooming

We humans are pretty obsessed with having perfectly clean dogs. Your dog will thank you to remember that that is not actually a dog thing. Eighty percent of the dogs in the world are free-roaming, not pets, and in that natural state they don’t get bathed, brushed, and clipped. And yet we somehow expect our dogs to immediately and fully tolerate brushes, clippers, and lengthy baths with strongly scented shampoo.

That’s why part of your body handling exercises must include the equipment and locations involved in whatever grooming process will be a part of your dog’s life. Show your puppy the brush/clipper/Dremel with Mr. Rogers’ help: “Oh, it’s OK! That’s just a brush!” followed by a nibble of turkey. A few days later, once puppy eagerly approaches the tool thanks to that positive association, experiment with a light touch from the brush, more narration, and a treat. Just remember: Great dog training is often boring because it involves so much repetition at a slow pace. Accepting that truth pays off in the end!

If you’re going to be using a groomer, find one who talks your ear off about how important the first visit is. If she suggests starting with a “fun visit” before an actual appointment, be thrilled rather than annoyed. A groomer who understands it’s critical to help the puppy feel calm is a keeper. (The wrong groomer can do all sorts of harm in terms of setting back your puppy’s trust regarding human handling.)

Prepare Your Pup for Vet Visits

Now it’s time to play doctor with your puppy! Once you’ve gotten your pup into the swing of intentional body handling that goes beyond simple cuddles, it’s time to work a one-minute pretend veterinary appointment into your days.

A 2-week-old puppy is held gently in a person's hand.
Great breeders and foster providers know
to begin this process early. Puppies who
are habituated to appropriate, considerate
human touch from their infanthood will be
primed to happily accept it as they mature.
Photo by Kathy Callahan

Using the same incremental, short-duration process (alternating challenging new handling with well-liked kinds of touch, treats, or play), mimic a vet appointment. Do a quick narrated restraint – “It’s OK! I’m just going to hold you for a sec!” – followed by a happy congratulations and a toy or a treat. Then a little ear check, a pretend vaccination, a glance at a tooth, and then check out with a big celebration. Repeat, repeat, repeat until your puppy knows the words that you can then use at her next appointment about checking ears, checking teeth, etc.

Note that you can go well beyond this into the wonderful practice of cooperative care, but that’s beyond the scope of today’s topic. For now, simply make a point of remembering to give your pup the chance to experience all of these unusual ways of being handled to the point that they no longer feel unusual.

The #1 Rule: Maintain your Puppy’s Trust

The first priority for every puppy owner should be establishing the fact that they are their puppy’s rock, their trusted guide here on perplexing Planet Human. Happily, there is a way to do these body handling exercises that truly supports that goal. If you go slowly enough, make a point of making each session 95% beloved touch style, and just 5% new experimenting sandwiched in there, in the end you are simply building trust and connection with every session.

How to Introduce a Cat to a Dog

A woman introducing a cat to a dog, the cat is clearly upset.
Unfortunately, the woman is not in a position to protect either one of her pets from the other, and if either the dog or cat makes a sudden move, she may well end up getting scratched or bitten. Photo by Michele Pevide, Getty Images

There are millions of homes where cats and dogs live together in perfect harmony – mine included. How does that happen? Careful introductions of cat to dog and vice versa, good management, awareness of dog and cat body language, and patience.

A positive cat-dog relationship begins with how you introduce a cat to a dog; you don’t want to just cross your fingers! Even if you know your dogs are good with cats and this cat has lived happily with dogs in the past, the more carefully you arrange the introduction the more likely you are to set up your four-legged family members for success. Thoughtful social engineering will support your cat’s sense of safety and confidence as well as your dog’s calm acceptance of your new family member.

Here’s a cat/dog introduction protocol designed to keep all parties feeling (and in reality) safe:

  1. Choose a room in your home that can be securely closed to be your cat’s initial dog-free safe zone. Set up the cat’s food, water, litter box, and bed in the room. When you first bring the cat home, you will bring the cat in her carrier directly to that room.
A reactive cat can derail a smooth introduction of a cat to a dog.
Keep in mind that if your cat is reactive, her behavior may trigger your dog into reactivity, too. In contrast, if she feels safe, she will likely display calm, relaxed body language, which will help your dog be calm, too. Photo by Flashpop, Getty Images

It’s might take a while to give your cat whole-house freedom, but go ahead and prepare for that day by creating more cat-safe spaces in your home, including plenty of elevated cat-friendly surfaces, an accessible but tall cat tree, and doorways that are equipped with pet gates. While most cats can jump over pet gates, the best gates have cat-doors built into them that are too small for a dog but allow cats to run right through to safety. See “Types of Dog Gates” to learn about your many options!

  1. Confine your dogs to a different room – preferably a room away from the path you will travel to the cat’s room – while you bring the cat in to the house.
  2. Bring your cat (in her carrier) to her private room and close the door securely. Plan to keep her in this room for several days – or longer if she shows you that she needs more time. This gives her cortisol levels, heightened by the stress of a trip to a new home, a chance to settle down to normal, and gives the cat some time to acclimate to her new surroundings while also strengthening your relationship with her. Plus, it allows her to become accustomed to the scents and sounds of the dogs (outside her closed door) and gives you the opportunity to note her reaction to them.

Be sure to spend time quietly hanging out with your cat in her secure room.

  1. If after a few days, your cat seems confident and curious, eager to explore beyond her safe room, it’s time to introduce her to your dog in a highly controlled environment – but one that doesn’t feel restrictive or trap-like. In a large room, set up an exercise pen against a wall (this will ensure that there is a “safe side” of the pen where she can get some distance away from your dog). Put a solid or covered dog-sized carrier in the pen near the wall to give her a safe place for her to hide in the pen and cover the pen with a blanket so she can’t jump out. Place a generous handful of yummy cat treats and your cat in the pen and give her some time to explore this space. The pen will allow her to approach your dog from safety, and give her a secure retreat if she feels she needs it, without being able to run (potentially triggering a chase instinct in your dog) or hide indefinitely (which could frustrate and hinder your ability to supervise and control the next meet-and-greet attempt).
  2. When she has had a few minutes to investigate the pen, bring your leashed dog into the room with the pen. If you have multiple dogs, bring out the calmest, most cat-friendly one. Walk the dog slowly on leash toward the pen, watching both the cat’s and the dog’s reactions. If both seem totally calm, walk up to the pen and let them sniff. If both continue to be very calm and accepting of each other, let them hang out for a while through the barrier, then open the pen and let them be friends. You just won the cat-dog introduction lottery!
  3. If your cat is scared or just seems worried or the dog seems aroused, keep them a good distance apart (so stress doesn’t escalate) and sit on the floor or a chair with your dog. Feed high-value treats to your dog so he learns that the presence of the cat will cause treats to appear. He will eventually look to you for treats when the cat is present, rather than getting aroused. This is called “counter conditioning and desensitization” – giving your dog a new association with an arousing or fear-causing stimulus. Feed him a treat and then let him look at the cat, and repeat this again and again until he only glances at the cat and then quickly looks at you – or doesn’t even look at the cat at all. Now you can move closer – assuming the cat is calm, too!

If the cat is worried, a second person can drop bits of high-value kitty treats into the cat pen one at a time (this will provide counter conditioning for the cat!). This could go quickly if dog and cat are both accustomed to and comfortable and appropriate with the other species. If that’s not the case, it could take a long time.

Repeat this process with any other dogs in your household, one dog at a time.

A dog starring intently at a cat can indicate too much focus.
A dog who leans forward with a hard, direct stare is too intent on the cat. Keep the dog leashed until he is less focused on or even interested in the cat. Photo by Nicole Kucera, Getty Images
  1. When your dog can remain calm and relaxed around your penned cat, with Dog #1 still on leash, open the door to the pen and invite the cat out. Do not coerce her to come out; let it be her choice. Use counter conditioning as needed to keep your dog calm while the cat walks around.

If this goes well, swap Dog #1 out for Dog #2 and so on, until all the dogs have individually interacted appropriately with the cat out of the pen. Then, try it again with a single dog and with the dog off leash (but wearing a collar so you can restrain him if necessary).

When your cat is comfortable with each dog off-leash individually, try it with two dogs, then three, until the whole family can happily hang out together. Keep those pet gates and cat trees in place, however, so the cat always has safe dog-free spaces to retreat to if she feels the need.

Management of Introducing a Cat to a Dog

Every good training and behavior program incorporates management to ensure success. With your dog(s) and cat, this means keeping them safely separated when you are not there to supervise, until you are 100% confident that they will all get along. I also recommend maintaining one room as the cat’s room (with one of those cat-door pet gates), where you continue to keep her food, bed, and litter box so she has a safe canine-free haven anytime she wants to get away from the dogs – and so your dogs don’t eat the cat food and cat poop, which dogs are very likely to do.

This seven-step process can seem cumbersome, but cat-friendly dogs and dog-savvy cats may be able to whip through it in just a day or two. Take as long as you need, however. It’s better to err on the side of caution than increase tension between your two species and sabotage your program by moving too quickly. As we like to say in behavior modification, “If you think you’re going too slow, slow down!”

If you’ve done everything described above and you are still seeing cat/dog tension, it may be time to seek the services of a qualified force-free dog-training professional. Be sure to find one who is experienced with both dogs and cats for the best results.

By the way, it is also a myth that there are “cat people” and “dog people.” There are plenty of us who love, appreciate, and share our homes with both species. And it is perfectly possible that they can all get along.

Signs of Dog Arousal/Cat Stress

Dogs

  • Barking
  • Growling
  • Teeth chattering
  • Hard stare/intense focus
  • Fast, high tail wag
  • Body leaning forward
  • Taking treats with a hard mouth
  • Avoidance

Cats

  • Hissing, growling, or yowling
  • Biting
  • Stillness
  • Lashing out with claws
  • Retreating/hiding/avoidance
  • Tense, hunched body
  • Flattened ears
  • Skin twitching or “rippling”

Valley Fever in Dogs

Valley fever is a fungal disease that can sicken dogs and humans alike.
The fungal spores that cause Valley fever are released from soil that has been disturbed; dogs or humans who inhale that dust may contract the disease. According to the California Department of Public Health, cases of Valley fever (in humans) have risen drastically in the past two decades, with between 7,000 and 9,000 cases reported annually in the past few years. Photo by Maisie Paterson, Getty Images.

Valley fever is the common name of a medical condition called coccidioidomycosis (pronounced cock-sid-ee-oy-doh-my-KOH-sis) that can affect dogs and humans alike. The illness is also known as San Joaquin Valley Fever (named for the southern half of California’s Central Valley), desert fever, and desert rheumatism. Valley fever is caused by the inhalation of a species of fungus called Coccidioides that thrives in the soil of semi-arid regions with warm winters. Most dogs who develop symptoms of Valley fever will have the pulmonary form of coccidioidomycosis, presenting with a cough, fever, decreased appetite, and weight loss. However, if the Valle​y fever fungus infection spreads to other parts of the body, dogs can have other signs of illness, such as:​​​​

  • Pain and/or s​welling in joints and limbs
  • Limping (lameness) or difficulty walking
  • Back or neck pain
  • Neurologic signs, including seizures, changes in vision, and loss of muscle control
  • Lumps and bumps under the skin
  • Swollen lymph nodes around the jaw, in front of the shoulder blades, or behind the back legs
  • Skin wounds that drain fluid
  • Swelling and redness of the eye and surrounding skin with pain and cloudiness

How Dogs Get Valley Fever

The Coccidioides fungus grows in the soil of semi-arid regions with warm winters, and can be found as much as 12 inches below the soil surface. This fungus is found primarily in the southwestern United States, including California, Arizona, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, and Texas, though there have been reports of the fungus being found in south-central Washington state. (It’s so prevalent in California’s Central Valley, that the California Department of Public Health maintains a Valley Fever web page with case rates and other information about its risks.) Internationally, it is endemic to areas of Mexico and several Central and South American countries.

The growth of the Coccidioides fungus is accelerated after a period of rainfall, when microscopic spores called arthroconidia develop on strands of the fungus. Once the soil dries out in the summer, these spores are released into the air – especially if the dried soil is disturbed by natural forces, such as a windstorm or an earthquake, by digging in the soil (as with farming, gardening, landscaping, or during construction), or by off-road vehicles.

Dogs, humans, and many other species of animals can contract Valley fever by inhaling these microscopic arthroconidia. In most cases, the fungal spores remain in the lungs and do not spread to other areas of the body. But if they enter the bloodstream or the lymphatic system, they can spread to any other area of the body, including the brain, bones, joints, skin, lymph nodes, and visceral organs.

Information About Valley Fever in Dogs

-About 40% of dogs exposed to the Coccidioides fungus will become ill.

-Most dogs who become ill with Valley fever have the pulmonary form of the disease, which has a good prognosis if identified and treated promptly.

-Diagnosis of Valley fever is not always straightforward and may require a treatment trial with antifungal medications.

-Antifungal medications have side effects and periodic monitoring of kidney values or liver enzymes will be necessary.

-A small percentage of dogs exposed to the Coccidioides fungus will develop a latent infection. These dogs may take up to three years following exposure to show symptoms of Valley fever. If your dog is ill, be sure to tell your veterinarian about your dog’s travel history and places your dog has previously lived.

Symptoms of Valley Fever in Dogs

Most dogs who develop symptoms of Valley fever will have the pulmonary form of coccidioidomycosis. In these cases, the Coccidioides fungus is contained within the lungs and does not spread to other areas of the body. Some of these dogs may also develop a fever, have a decreased appetite, and experience weight loss.

A small percentage of symptomatic dogs may develop disseminated coccidioidomycosis. This is a condition in which the fungal spores enter the bloodstream or the lymphatic system and spread to other areas of the body. The symptoms a dog with disseminated coccidioidomycosis will experience will vary depending on which parts of the body have been infected.

Dogs with disseminated Valley fever may experience neck or back pain, joint pain, nodules on the skin, and swelling of the eyes and altered vision. If the fungus has spread to the brain, then changes in walking, balance, or behavior may occur. Open skin sores that drain fluid (known as draining tracts) may occur over areas of soft tissue, joints, or bones where the fungus is residing.

Disseminated coccidioidomycosis can also cause fevers that come and go, decreased appetite, and weight loss. Other symptoms associated with specific organ dysfunction may arise if the fungal spores have spread to organs such as the heart, liver, kidneys, and pancreas.

About 40% of dogs exposed to the Coccidioides fungus will develop a cough about one to four weeks after inhaling the fungal spores. A small percentage of dogs may develop a latent infection, remaining symptom free for up to three years after exposure to the Coccidioides fungus before developing a cough or other symptoms.

The majority of dogs exposed to the Coccidioides fungus are asymptomatic, meaning they do not develop symptoms of Valley fever. About 60% of dogs exposed to the Coccidioides fungus will remain asymptomatic.

Diagnosis of Valley Fever

Diagnosing coccidioidomycosis in any animal, including dogs and humans, can be challenging. As of this writing, there is no single test that can definitively diagnose Valley fever. A diagnosis is made by correlating symptoms with possible exposure to the fungal spores, imaging (such as radiographs, CT, or MRI), antibody titer testing, and cytology of affected bodily fluids.

A dog with Valley fever may have thoracic radiographs (chest x-rays) that show an infiltrative pattern to the lungs and enlarged lymph nodes in the chest. But this type of appearance on radiographs is not specifically indicative of Valley fever. Other diseases, such as metastatic cancer, can have the same appearance on radiographs.

There are many different diseases that can cause coughing in dogs, so thoracic radiographs will be necessary to eliminate other possible causes for your dog’s cough. These causes include (but are not limited to) pneumonia, bronchitis, collapsing trachea, and congestive heart failure, all of which have a different appearance on radiographs than Valley fever.

A computed tomography (CT) scan may be more sensitive at detecting spherules within the lungs. This can help differentiate Valley fever from other causes of an infiltrative pattern on radiographs. If a dog that is suspected to have Valley fever is exhibiting neurologic signs, then magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) may show the presence of fungal spherules (regenerating structures that produce more fungal spores) in the brain.

Antibody titer testing may be helpful in determining if a dog has Valley fever. A high antibody titer for the Coccidioides fungus in a dog showing symptoms of Valley fever is supportive of a diagnosis of coccidioidomycosis. However, some dogs may not develop antibodies for several weeks after becoming ill, so a negative antibody titer does not rule out Valley fever.

Cytology (examination of cells under a microscope) of the patient’s bodily fluids (exudates) may reveal the presence of fungal spores. If your dog is coughing, a procedure called a transtracheal wash can be used to recover fluid from the lower airway for analysis. Fluid from draining tracts of the skin can also be analyzed for the presence of spores. If a spherule has not yet ruptured and released spores, then a cytology test may be negative even if a dog has Valley fever.

Sometimes a treatment can be used as a diagnostic tool. If a dog responds to a specific treatment, then that may be supportive of a diagnosis. A treatment trial with antifungal drugs may be used as a diagnostic tool if:

  • the dog is exhibiting the symptoms of coccidioidomycosis
  • the dog lives, has lived, or has traveled to a geographic area known to be endemic for the Coccidioides fungus
  • tests for Valley fever have been negative
  • other causes of the dog’s symptoms have been ruled out
  • the dog’s symptoms have not responded to other treatment regimens

Treatment of Valley Fever

Coccidioidomycosis is treated with a lengthy course of antifungal drugs. These medications include amphotericin B or one of the “azole” class of antifungal drugs: ketoconazole, itraconazole, fluconazole, or posaconazole. Sometimes a combination of an azole drug with anti-fungal drug called terbinafine is used.

Amphotericin B is only available as an injectable drug, not an oral medication. The most common side effect of this medication is kidney damage. This damage is often reversible but may take several months after discontinuing amphotericin B for the kidneys to recover.

The azole class of medications can cause liver damage. Like amphotericin B, this damage is often reversible once the medication is discontinued. Elevated liver enzymes can also be observed in dogs taking terbinafine.

Dogs receiving amphotericin B will need to have their kidney values closely monitored. Liver enzymes will need to be periodically monitored in dogs receiving terbinafine or one of the azole class of drugs.

Treatment for the pulmonary form of coccidioidomycosis typically requires being on antifungal medications for three to six months. The response to treatment is usually good and most dogs with the pulmonary form will make a complete recovery.

Dogs who have disseminated coccidioidomycosis will likely require treatment for a year or more. Some dogs with this form of the disease may require treatment for the remainder of their lives. A small number of these dogs do not recover from their illness while some recover but have lifelong effects depending on where the fungal spores spread in their bodies.

How to prevent Valley Fever in dogs

If you live in an area endemic to Valley fever, then exposure to the Coccidioides fungus is unavoidable. But there are things you can do to minimize the risk of your dog becoming ill with Valley fever:

  • Avoid outdoor activity during or just after dust storms and in the days following an earthquake
  • Avoid walking near construction sites or other areas where the soil is being mechanically disturbed
  • Do not allow your dog to dig in desert soil
  • Plant ground cover on your property that reduces dust circulation, such as grass or gravel

Although dogs can develop Valley fever at any time of year, the number of cases reported in both humans and animals is highest from mid-summer to late autumn.

A vaccine for coccidioidomycosis is currently under development and has shown promise in preventing Valley fever in dogs.

 

Download The Full March 2024 Issue PDF

  • If Your Dog Won’t Eat
  • Carpet Cleaners
  • All About Dog Dentals
  • How to Get Pups to Sleep
  • Smart Collars
  • Dog Training for Kids
  • Hygromas
  • Looking for Dr. Perfect
  • Teach Your Dog to Relax
  • Vaccine Reactions
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How Often Do You Walk Your Dog?

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Walking your dog at least once a day has health benefits for both the dog and their owner.
We all know that taking our dogs for at least one walk every day would increase our dogs’ and our own health and happiness of our dogs. But how many of us walk our dogs regularly? Photo by Olga Pankova, Getty Images

I read an article in the Washington Post the other day about walking your dog. The gist of the article was that failing to take your dog on walks can be detrimental to your dog’s physical and emotional well being.

I agree – and I suspect the majority of dog owners don’t walk their dogs regularly.

I’m not judging anyone. Even I, a dedicated dog owner who strongly believes in the benefits of dog walking, who loves going for walks with my dogs, who lives in a beautiful area for walking, who is healthy and has healthy dogs  . . . even I often fail to walk my dogs.

I was a lot better about walking my dogs regularly when 8-year-old Woody was young and needed daily exercise in order to behave well at home. When he was a youngster, he needed double-digit miles per week of off-leash running if I didn’t want the house to be chewed apart. Today, though, he’s perfectly behaved whether we get out for walks or not.

Two-year-old Boone has been lower-maintenance. He would love more walks than he gets, but he doesn’t fall apart behaviorally if he doesn’t get them.

I do have the advantage of living on two completely fenced acres, and my dogs can run and play outside any time they want. They do play daily chase games and do a few laps of the property every day – but the overall mileage of those activities isn’t anything like a walk. And the stimulation they get from exploring our property isn’t nearly as enriching as going someplace else and sniffing new places and seeing new things.

Is it the fact that I live in a rural area? I feel like it’s far more common for people who live in urban and suburban areas to walk their dogs daily than for us rural dwellers?

Does the number of dogs that a person owns affect how often they get walked? I wonder if owning more than one dog decreases or increases the number of walks the dogs receive.

What about you guys? How often do you walk your dogs, and what factors affect your dog-walking habits?

How to Comfort a Dog in Heat

The best way to comfort a dog in heat is to not have her go through the cycle.
Many intact female dogs feel grumpy and out-of-sorts during their heat cycles. Be especially patient with them at this time! Photo by Albina Gavrilovic, Getty Images.

Intact (unspayed) female dogs typically have two heat cycles per year, driven by rising and falling levels of estrogen and progesterone. These changes in hormone levels can change how your dog feels physically and emotionally. In the days leading up to the start of her heat cycle, a female dog may start to act skittish and startle easily. She may start to act clingy and always want to have you in sight. Her appetite may decrease and she may become less active.

Comfort a dog in heat by giving your dog a little extra attention during her heat cycle. Make sure she continues to eat but don’t force her to eat more than she wants. Let her sleep if she needs it and keep noisy distractions to a minimum.

Once her heat cycle has started, your dog will begin spotting blood from her vulva. She may spend a lot of time licking her vulva to keep that area clean. Dogs with thick fur may require your assistance with keeping the fur around the vulva free of discharge.

You can help support her by making sure that her bedding is always clean. Consider laying an absorbent pad (like a pee pad) on top of her bedding to absorb discharge from her vulva. Dogs who experience moderate to heavy discharge may benefit from wearing a sanitary diaper until the amount of discharge begins to decrease.

How to prevent unwanted pregnancy during your dog’s heat cycle

A dog’s heat cycle typically lasts about two to three weeks. There are two phases to a dog’s heat cycle. Intact male dogs will be attracted to her during both phases, but she will become receptive to mating and can become pregnant during the second phase.

If you do not want your dog to become pregnant, do not leave her unattended outside during the second phase of her heat cycle. Avoid off-leash walks and dog parks. And most importantly, do not let her out in the fenced-in yard without direct supervision. A fence is no match for an intact male dog who wants to mate with your female dog!

Since her outdoor activities will likely be curtailed during her heat cycle to prevent mating, she will need additional indoor activities to keep her occupied. Consider getting her an interactive puzzle toy to provide her with both mental stimulation and physical activity. Play indoor games of fetch or hide training treats inside boxes or blocks that she can search for and find.

The best way to provide comfort to a dog in heat is to not have her go through a heat cycle at all! Having your dog spayed eliminates the risk of developing pyometra (a life-threatening infection of the uterus) and minimizes the risk of developing mammary cancer. Talk to your veterinarian about the best time to spay your dog.

What Is a Dog Training Platform?

A dog training platform is used to train a dog to stay.
Handy humans can build a box or platform for training your dog, but the ones that are designed and made specifically for dog training are strong, splinter-free, secure and level, weather-resistant, and non-slip.

Many trainers use a platform or a box, also called a “place board,” to help a dog understand the concept of remaining in a designated spot. In the beginning stage of training, the dog is encouraged to step onto the platform or box, either with a food lure or toy, and reinforced whenever his feet come into contact with the platform. Reinforcement stops or is withheld when the dog steps off the platform. The difference in the sensations of stepping or being on and stepping or being off the platform helps create bright-line criteria – for both the handler and the dog – of what will be reinforced and what will not.

Most dogs quickly start volunteering to step onto the dog training platform more frequently and remaining there for longer periods of duration – which the handler continues to reinforce with food treats. Then the handler can start using cues and reinforcement to shape the specific behaviors she wants from the dog.

Behaviors that can be easily taught using a dog training place board include:

  • Stand/Stay
  • Sit/Stay
  • Down/Stay
  • Back Up (dog is encouraged to step onto the platform with his back feet only)
  • “Front” (a behavior that is used in obedience competition, requiring the dog to come directly to the handler and sit very straight close to and in front of the handler)
  • “Return to Heel” (again, used in obedience competitions, requiring the dog to leave the front position, walk clockwise around/behind the handler to a position at the handler’s left side, i.e., the “heel” position)
  • “Side” or “Swing Finish” (another obedience move where the dog pivots counter-clockwise from a front position to the heel position on the handler’s left side)

To start teaching each of these behaviors, the platform is placed in the goal location (relative to the handler) and the dog is lured or shaped into the desired position, and reinforced for reaching that location, going to the location on cue, remaining in that location on cue, and eventually, going to and remaining in a certain position in that location on cue.

Denise Fenzi, founder of Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports, frequently uses platforms when training her dogs. “I use them because it’s black and white for the dog,” she says. “It’s easier at first for them to learn Stay by staying on the platform as opposed to staying in an undefined spot on the ground. The same attribute makes place boards hard to beat for teaching the dog precision work – where the dog needs to be in a very specific position.”

Fenzi has another tip about using platforms to work on the “Stay” behavior. She often “sends” her dogs to a place board from a distance, rather than positioning them on the platform and then walking away. This way, the act of walking away doesn’t predict a recall or draw the dog off the platform to follow the handler.

Dog Training Platforms for Fitness

A arrangement of three dog training platforms viewed from the top down.
From left to right: Blue-9’s KLIMB, Huntmark’s Dog Training Place Board, and Cato Outdoors’ Cato Board. All three feature non-slip surfaces and can be used and stored outdoors.

You can also use a dog training platform to lead your dog through exercises that will build his fitness, coordination, and flexibility. Veterinary physical therapy or fitness instructors often use dog training platforms to encourage the dog to step up and down and to perform certain stretches in a slow, controlled manner.

Cato Outdoors, maker of the Cato Board dog training platform, has a collection of videos that show you how a platform can be used for dog fitness exercises here.

Best Dog Training Platforms

There are three companies that make place boards for dog training:

Blue-9 is the maker of a platform it calls the KLIMB, a 24” by 24” training platform that can be used without legs for a height of 4 inches, with optional short legs (set of four sold separately) for a height of 6 inches, or with the standard (included) legs for a height of 12 inches. KLIMBS can be attached to other Klimbs to create larger platforms, and can even be stacked securely to create taller platforms. $160.  Blue-9 offers a very good (and free!) guide to teaching your dog to use a platform. It can be downloaded from the Blue-9 Resource Library; click on KLIMB Training Quick Start Guide.

The Klimbs dog training platform offers optional legs to adjust platform height.
Used without legs, the KLIMB platform is 4 inches tall. It comes with a set of legs that make the platform 12 inches tall; an optional set of legs can be purchased to make it 6 inches tall.

 

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The next two dog training platforms are rectangular, which helps dogs hold their position (being narrower, it’s harder for a dog to turn around while staying on the board):

Cato Outdoors makes the Cato Board, which comes in two sizes, 11 different colors, and can be ordered with either a rubber non-slip surface or an artificial turf surface. The original board measures 24” by 16”, is 3.5 inches tall, weighs 7.7 lbs, and costs $79. Very large or long dogs might be better served by the Cato Board XL, which is 36” by 12” inches and 3.5 inches tall; it sells for $95.

Huntmark’s Dog Training Place Board is available in dark blue or “optic yellow.” It measures 28” by 18” and is 4.5 inches high. It can support up to 200 pounds, and has non-skid rubber feet and a raised rubber traction surface. It weighs 8 lbs 11 oz. $86.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”