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How to Stop Dog Nail Bleeding

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Cutting too high when clipping a dog nails is possible. Stopping a dogs nails bleeding is fairly simple.
Even professional groomers can accidentally cut a nail too close, and most have styptic powder ready to use. Credit: PixelsEffect | Getty Images

If you cut your dog’s nail too close to the quick, it will bleed. For a dog’s bleeding nail, a dab of styptic powder will get the bleeding to stop. If styptic powder isn’t available, try some corn starch (see below) or apply pressure with a clean cloth or your finger to stop the bleeding. Talk to your dog in a slow, calm voice to calm her – a broken or bleeding nail is painful.

Styptic Powder for Dogs

Styptic powder (active ingredient ferric subsulfate) clots the blood and stops small bleeds. Simply apply the powder to the tip of a bleeding nail, and the nail will stop bleeding.

If you just nicked the quick, a small amount of powder will do the job. For more dramatic incidents, you might need to reapply powder several times. Most dogs tolerate styptic powder well, though some do react with discomfort as you apply it.

Silver nitrate sticks can also be used to stop dog nail bleeding, but they do sting so your dog likely won’t enjoy it.

Is Styptic Powder Safe for Dogs to Lick?

Licking up a small amount of styptic powder won’t harm your dog, but prevent her from consuming large amounts.

Homemade Styptic Powder for Dogs

If you don’t have styptic powder available, there are several household items you can use to help stop your dog’s nail from bleeding.

  • Cornstarch, with or without baking soda and flour
  • Ivory soap (press the nail into the bar of soap)
  • Liquid bandage

None of these options work quite as quickly as styptic powder, but they will help in a pinch.

For the most optimal results when trimming your dog’s nails, be sure to use proper tools and be sure you understand proper nail length. Never hesitate to ask your veterinarian for advice on trimming your dog’s nails or the name of a good professional dog groomer.

How Long Can Parvo Last in the Environment?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Parvo lasts a long time and is highly contagious through contact meaning these four puppies are at risk of contracting it from a surface.
The virus that causes canine parvo can last for months on any surface and is highly contagious. Thorough cleanup, including using a disinfectant effective against the virus is a necessity. Credit: Debbishop | Getty Images

Parvo is a devastating canine disease caused by a tough virus that can survive in the environment for a surprisingly long time.

Reports vary, but basically the parvo virus can live on any surface for weeks to months. Parvo can live on concrete for up to nine months. It will live on untreated carpets for six months. Parvo can live on human skin, too, but it’s the rare individual who would not immediately clean up dog feces on their skin. (Parvo is a highly contagious disease spread by contact with feces from infected canines.)

Cleaning up outdoors is a major challenge. While sunlight helps destroy parvovirus, some reports say parvo can live up to nine years in untreated ground, depending on temperatures and humidity. Many reports say seven to nine months is more realistic, but still, it’s a long time.

How to Get Rid of Parvo

Because it’s so highly contagious, parvo is difficult to control. Obviously, keep infected dogs clean and free of feces debris. If you want to get rid of parvo, pick up any fecal material as best you can. It helps to put some bleach on the spots you clean, if possible. For small outdoor areas, you may want to spray of mix of 10:1 water:bleach.

If dealing with a parvo outbreak, assume all fecal material is contaminated. All organic debris needs to be removed or it will harbor the virus. Use a strong detergent followed by a disinfectant.

Follow the deep cleaning with bleach – bleach is one of the few effective disinfectants – where you can. This includes hard surfaces, including floors, bowls, and crates (both in the home and the car). Any disinfectant should be in contact with the area to be cleaned for a minimum of 10 minutes. After that, you can clean the area to be sure no cleaner residue is left behind, especially on bowls and crates.

Most families prefer not to bleach their carpets. Some commercial cleaners such as TekTrol are approved to kill parvo virus and claim to not damage your carpets.

Stop the Parvo Spread

Canine Parvoviruses include the smallest known viruses and some of the most environmentally resistant. Meaning parvo can last in the environment for a long time.
Canine parvoviruses include the smallest known viruses and some of the most environmentally resistant. Each particle consists of DNA surrounded by an icosahedral protein capsid. It is highly contagious. Credit: Roger Harris/Science Photo Library

It is easy for people to unwittingly spread parvo virus. It is not an airborne virus, but it can survive on your skin, your clothes, dog bowls, dog beds – basically anywhere. Excellent hygiene is important to rid your home or kennel of this virus:

  • Wash your hands after handling an infected pup or dog.
  • Use a bleach hand wipe to help physically remove the virus.
  • Wear gloves that you can then bleach.
  • Change and wash your clothes and shoes (or use disposable shoe covers) after being around an infected dog or puppy. You may want to have a “parvo outfit” that you then bleach and discard when your dog is better.

Phew! It’s easy to see why doing preventive parvovirus vaccinations is the best way to deal with parvo.

Can Dogs Eat Acorns?

By
CJ Puotinen
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Acorns can be hazardous to dogs if eaten.
Acorns-and-caps: The soft inner nut is the part of the acorn that can be toxic – even more so when they get wet and start to rot and ferment. But the hard outer shell and the woody “caps” can cause intestinal obstructions when dogs chew up and swallow enough of them. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Acorns, which are the nuts of oak trees, fall to the ground along with autumn leaves. Oval or round in shape, encased in a hard outer shell, and between 1 and 2 inches in length, acorns are an important food source for deer, birds, and squirrels. Some dogs love to eat acorns, too! But acorns are dangerous to dogs in a variety of ways:

  • Acorns can be a choking hazard.
  • Wet, fermenting acorns can produce gastrointestinal problems.
  • Their tannins (bitter tasting, astringent organic compounds) are potentially toxic to dogs.
  • They can create intestinal blockages.

If you live near oak trees, take the following steps to protect your dog:

  • Keep your yard raked in the fall – or use a “nut roller” to help reduce the abundance of nuts on the ground.
  • Avoid areas where acorns are abundant when going on walks.
  • Don’t encourage your dog to catch or play with acorns.
  • Be ready to distract your dog from acorns with treats or a toy.
  • Teach your dog to “drop” or “leave it” in case he picks one up.
  • And finally, if you find your dog munching on acorns, be ready to call your veterinarian.

According to Dr. Erin Ray, Texas A&M University clinical assistant professor at the School of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences, acorn or Quercus poisoning is relatively rare among dogs. “Most dogs would need to ingest large quantities of acorns to become sick,” she explained in a 2022 VMBS press release. However, some dogs eating just one or two acorns might experience stomach and intestinal issues like diarrhea or vomiting.

In addition, said Dr. Ray, “Acorns can be physically problematic for dogs if ingested whole or in large pieces. They can cause dogs to choke or get stuck and obstruct the gastrointestinal tract, and they can even cause dental trauma if they are hard enough when chewed on.”

Although serious cases are rare, you should contact your veterinarian for advice if you think your dog has swallowed acorns. Symptoms usually develop within a day and can include vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, loss of appetite, and abdominal pain.

The medical treatment for acorn poisoning depends on the severity of a dog’s symptoms. Medications for vomiting, diarrhea, or pain may be prescribed along with fluids in serious cases. Radiographs (X-rays) and surgery diagnose and treat intestinal blockages. Larger adult dogs are less likely to develop acorn poisoning than small breeds or puppies, but any dog can overdose on acorns and experience problems.

In June 2021, the Canadian Veterinary Journal published “Successful management of suspected acorn (Querus petraea) toxicity in a dog” by Fernanda Camacho, et al, which described the treatment of a 7-year-old male Labrador Retriever who developed acute kidney injury and liver dysfunction after ingesting acorns. The dog required intensive care hospitalization for six days but made a full recovery. “This report documents that dogs can be affected by this toxicity,” explained the authors, “and it highlights the need for veterinarians to consider acorns as a potential cause of acute hepatoxicity and renal injury.”

What Is Anaplasmosis in Dogs?

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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A golden retriever moves through high vegetation.
Ticks latch onto your dog as he walks through tall grass. They hang out at the end of a blade of grass, little legs outreaching and waiting to latch on (they don’t jump like fleas). Credit: Erin Lester

Anaplasmosis is a tick-borne bacterial disease in dogs caused by the anaplasma genus of bacteria. If an infected tick is on your dog for 24 hours or more, your dog may become infected. Fortunately, Anaplasmosis infection typically only causes mild disease if your dog gets sick at all.

How serious is anaplasmosis? It normally is not serious. The dog’s immune system usually clears this infection quickly without treatment.

Anaplasmosis Symptoms in Dogs

Signs of an anaplasmosis infection usually occur during the first couple of weeks after infection. They’re often vague and easy to miss, but typically include:

  • Lethargy
  • Decreased appetite
  • Fever

Occasionally, the dog appears stiff with painful joints. You also may see:

  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Cough

There are two forms of anaplasmosis, which are spread by a few different ticks but most commonly the deer tick. The bacteria transmitted by the tick bite gets into either the dog’s white blood cells or platelets, depending on which form is involved. The most common form of anaplasmosis affects the white blood cells. Bruising and nose bleeds may be observed if platelets are affected.

Screening for Anaplasmosis

Most annual screening heartworm/tick tests include Anaplasma, so the diagnosis is simple. If your dog shows any symptoms of anaplasmosis and tests positive for anaplasmosis, your veterinarian will likely recommend further testing including a complete blood count (CBC), chemistry screen, and urinalysis. Treatment is typically doxycycline, an oral antibiotic. If your dog is in pain, a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) or other pain management may be prescribed.

If your dog tests positive for anaplasmosis on a routine screening test but has no symptoms, your doctor may recommend a CBC and urinalysis just to be sure all is well. If everything looks good, treatment is not necessary.

Dogs who test positive for both anaplasmosis and Lyme disease, another tick-borne bacterial disease, tend to show signs of illness more frequently. If this happens to your dog, follow your veterinarian’s advice regarding further testing and treatment.

Can Dogs Have Imodium for Diarrhea?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Goldendoodle puppy feeling unwell.
A dog with ongoing diarrhea is going to have a lack of appetite and likely be lethargic. Rather than reaching for Imodium, consult your veterinarian. Credit: Oscar Wong | Getty Images

Yes, dogs can be given Imodium to treat diarrhea. However, it can have some unpleasant side effects if the dog is given too high of a dose for their size and may not be the best option depending on the cause of the diarrhea.

Can Dogs Have Imodium: Yes, but…

Loperamide, known by the brand name Imodium, works to control diarrhea in dogs by slowing down the gastrointestinal (GI) tract. This can help to resolve the diarrhea by giving the stool more time to firm up, but it doesn’t address the underlying cause of the diarrhea.

Imodium should not be used if your dog’s diarrhea was caused by a bacterial infection or eating something toxic, according to the Plumb’s Veterinary Drug Handbook, Eighth Edition. Slowing the GI tract down in these instances could give the toxin or the infection more time to do damage to the dog’s system. Instead, your veterinarian will use other treatments to remove the toxin from your dog’s body or clear the infection and then address the diarrhea later if it continues, sometimes recommending foods like pumpkin for control.

Side Effects of Imodium in Dogs

Dogs with the MDR1 mutation should not be given Imodium, as they will struggle to metabolize it. Any dog could potentially have this mutation, but the most commonly affected breeds include Border Collies, Shelties, Silken Windhounds, and Australian Shepherds. If your dog only has one copy of the mutation, she should still either avoid Imodium or be given a lower dose.

Some potential side effects include:

  • Constipation
  • Bloat
  • Sedation or lethargy
  • Toxic megacolon
  • Pancreatitis
  • Central nervous system effects

Can Dogs Have Imodium Pills?

Imodium pills may be appropriate for large dogs. Small and toy breed dogs usually require a liquid formula to get an accurate dose for their size. If considering a liquid product, always check the inactive ingredients for things that may be harmful for your dog such as the artificial sweetener xylitol.

Can Dogs Get Strep Throat from a Human?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Dogs can get throat infections like strep throat, but not from a human.
Dogs can get strep throat, sore throat, and even tonsilitis, but the bacterial causes are not normally shared between canines and humans. Credit: Martin Gallagher | Getty Images

You are unlikely to trade throat infections with your dog, but dogs can get strep throat, tonsillitis, and a plain old “sore throat.” In the family of Streptococcus bacteria, some bacteria prefer human throats, while others prefer canine throats.

Different Bacteria

Human strep throat is usually caused by Group A Streptococcus, while dogs are more susceptible to Group G Streptococcus. Dogs could, in theory, pass an infection between two people without getting sick themselves, but this is unlikely and can be avoided with basic hygiene such as washing hands and covering coughs and sneezes when sick.

Can Dogs Get Strep Throat?

Dog tonsillitis, or inflammation of the tonsils, occurs when a bacteria or virus either infects the tonsils directly or causes the dog to irritate their tonsils by coughing or vomiting. Thankfully, tonsillitis is much less common in dogs than in people.

Signs of dog tonsillitis include:

  • Red, swollen tonsils
  • Difficulty swallowing
  • Fever
  • Coughing or gagging
  • Lethargy
  • Poor appetite

The exact symptoms depend on the underlying cause of the tonsillitis. Periodontal disease is a common cause of bacteria in the mouth that can easily spread to the tonsils. Any disease that causes a cough or vomiting can also lead to tonsillitis.

Treating Dog Tonsillitis

If your dog has infected tonsils, your veterinarian will determine why your dog’s tonsils are inflamed. If the dog has dental disease, a dental cleaning is needed to clean the dog’s mouth. Viruses are treated with supportive care, and bacterial infections are treated with antibiotics.

You can protect your dog from tonsilitis and strep throat by keeping her up to date on core vaccines, avoiding contact with sick dogs, and providing regular dental care.

Current Contact Information

By
Nancy Kerns
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6
A list of news stories about dogs reunited with their families.
Technology like chipping allows missing dogs to be found, even if years have passed. Always something to feel good about. Credit: Nancy Kerns

Do you need a little burst of “feel good” chemicals or a boost on a difficult day? Here’s a fun exercise:  Go do an online search for these words” “dog reunited microchip” and read all the news articles that come up about dogs who were lost by their original families, and reunited with those families months, years, and even more than a DECADE later, thanks to microchips that were registered with their current contact information. Here are links to a few I just found:

 

 

“Missing Dog Reunited with Arizona Family After 12 Years”

“Stolen Dog Reunited With Family After 6 Years Thanks to Microchip”

“Valley Dog Reunited with Family After 12 years, Found 20 miles From Home”

Then, think about your dog’s microchip – he HAS an implanted identification microchip, doesn’t he? Is it currently registered with a microchip registration company? And if so, does the registry have your current contact information? You know, you can call the registry and ask . . .

Have you forgotten which registry that you registered the microchip with? Not a problem. Ask your vet or local shelter if you can bring your dog in and have him scanned. It just takes a few seconds and they won’t charge you! And they should be able to give you the manufacturer of the chip and contact information for that company. (But if they don’t you can use this link for a free microchip lookup-tool provided by the American Animal Hospital Association.) A shelter will also likely be able to tell you if and where it is registered – that is, if you registered the microchip when you got the dog . . . you did register the chip, didn’t you?

If you didn’t, no problem: You can register the chip at any time with any number of companies. All you need is the microchip number, which the scanner will give you. Here is a link to a list of microchip registries you can use to register your dog’s microchip. Our favorite is PetLink.net, which doesn’t charge for chip registration. (Edited to add: Follow the link, or make sure that you type in petlink dot NET, not petlink dot COM; the latter company does charge a fee for registration.) Some do, which is a tad worrisome, because what if you forget to pay them at some point?

Also, please go check your dog’s collar right now and make sure that the numbers on its ID tags are current. And if they aren’t, go order a new tag!

How to Get a Dog to Listen When Distracted

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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A golden retriever runs towards it's female owner during playtime in the park.
his is the dream: A dog who listens to our cues and easily complies with our requests, even outdoors in a distracting environment. But the dream doesn’t get accomplished overnight! Start small, training for your dog’s attention indoors with not-very-compelling distractions, and build on those successes. Photo by Srdjana1, Getty Images

Perhaps your dog responds to your cues reliably when you’re home, but as soon as you walk out your door, all his training flies out the window. You’re not alone; this is a common problem. Many dogs become highly distracted as soon as they step into the real world. You can teach him to focus around distractions – but the key is not starting the process in a highly distracting environment. 

Add Distractions Gradually

Ideally, you already use high-value reinforcers in your training. (If not, do!) Yummy food treats are a great choice. You can also use you dog’s favorite toys and play opportunities. The squeak of a squeaky toy is a great attention-getter!

Start your training sessions in a low-distraction environment (indoors) with high-value reinforcement. Reinforce lots of “Look at me” and also other behaviors your dog knows well, including his recall. If you want him to come to you past distractions outdoors, he needs to be able to rock it with distractions indoors, first.

Now introduce pre-arranged distractions that are of a medium-amount of interest to your dog, such as having your child skip by the area where you are working, or your partner dropping a box. The more variety of distractions you an employ, the better. Use high-value treats or favorite toys to reinforce looking at you if he gives you his attention when asked, or to get his attention if he doesn’t volunteer it. Try squeaking a squeaky toy for his attention, and when he looks at you, start playing with the toy; then play with the toy with him.

Work at this level until he quickly and reliably looks at you when you ask for attention. Then gradually increase working with him in the face of all sorts of distractions until he can focus on you indoors, even with children running, balls bouncing, and more.

Focus Outside

When your dog is successfully orienting to you and able to listen to your cues in the face of distractions indoors, take the work outside. Again, start with fewer, low-level distractions until he shows that he can be attentive in the face of those things. Then gradually increase the distraction level as he succeeds with various new stimuli. Reinforce him for any attention he gives you! As you add distractions, practice other known behaviors (especially his favorites!) including coming when called, so he’ll be reliable with all of them.

With time and your commitment to working with your dog, you’ll have a canine pal who is super-focused even with a circus of activities happening around you.

More Distraction Training Tips

Here are some more quick tips to help with focus and attention:

  1. “Walk Away” is a fun game and dogs love it, so it works beautifully to get your dog’s attention away from something he’s really focused on. See this article on how to teach this game.
  2. Use the “Premack Principle,” where a less likely behavior is reinforced by a more likely behavior. “If you looks at me and sit when asked, you (sometimes) get to go chase the bunny!” (For more information, see the Premack Principle section in “Beyond Basic Dog Training.”)
  3. Use a “naked squeaker.” Buy squeakers without toys online, or rescue them from toys your dog has disemboweled. Keep one in your pocket and give it a brief squeak or two at opportune times, then reinforce with treats or play.

Success!

Most important, as with all force-free training, set up your dog to succeed. Create environments with distraction levels where he is able to pay attention so you can reinforce him for his lovely behavior and convince him you are worth his focus even around bigger distractions.

Crate Training Tips

By
Editorial Staff
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Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A crate is an invaluable management tool. It is an artificial den for your dog that makes housetraining a breeze and gives your dog a safe place where he can stay. Here are some tips to remember:

  • It should never be a place of punishment.
  • Your dog may adjust more easily to stays at the vet hospital when he can take his portable bedroom with him.
  • Puppies can be crate trained with relative ease, so start early.
  • Crates should be just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably.
  • Start with the door open and just toss the treats inside.
  • Gradually toss the treats further and further until he is stepping in to get them. At this point you can use verbal cues, such as “go to bed”.
  • When your dog is staying in the crate with the door closed for at least 10 seconds without any signs of anxiety, close the door and latch it. Then step away from the crate.
  • When you are not actively training, leave the crate door open.

For more details and advice on crate training, download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Crate Training Made Easy.

Panicking in the Crate

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

This is very different from demand barking. Some dogs, particularly many of those with separation anxiety (SA), can’t tolerate the close confinement of a crate. They experience a full-blown panic attack, and frantically try to escape from their prison.

A panicked dog’s efforts to escape from his mental and emotional anguish may include hysterical, non-stop barking and howling – for hours and hours without pause; frantic attempts to bite and claw his way out – often breaking teeth and ripping out nails in the process; and stress-induced urination and defecation – which he proceeds to paint all over the walls of his crate as he thrashes around.

Solution to panic: Don’t crate!

You cannot subject a panicked dog to these conditions. You must address the SA problem through behavior modification, and may someday be able to use a crate with your dog, if you are successful in modifying the SA. In the meantime, look for doggie daycare-type management solutions.

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

Say Goodbye to Crate Anxiety

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

When your dog will stay in the crate with the door closed for at least 10 seconds without any signs of anxiety, close the door, latch it, and take one step away from the crate. Click!, return to the crate, reward, and open the door. Repeat this step, varying the time and distance you leave the crate.

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

How To Get Your Dog To Go Into the Crate

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

To get your dog to go into the crate, start with the crate door open, and toss some irresistibly yummy treats inside. If he is hesitant to go in after them, toss the treats close enough to the doorway that he can stand outside and just poke his nose in the crate to eat them. If you are training with a clicker or other reward marker, each time he eats a treat, Click! the clicker (or say “Yes!” if you are using a verbal marker).

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

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