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Three Training Lessons for a Distracted Dog

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Editorial Staff
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Beyond The Back Yard Book from Whole Dog Journal

Lesson #1: Easy Distraction, Easy Behavior

Use a low-value distraction for this lesson!

Procedure:

  1. Bring your dog into the training area.
  2. While your dog is watching, place the distraction out of your dog’s reach, but where she can see it. Your dog should be well aware of the distraction, so do not try and hide it!
  3. Hold two cookies in your hand; you’ll need them in a moment.
  4. Standing close to your dog, cur a behavior she knows like a sit.
  5. If your dog responds correctly, reward your dog with the two-treat method.
  6. If your dog fails, admire the distraction together, then try again.
  7. Repeat no more than 10 times or 5 minutes, whichever is greater.

Lesson #2: Easy Distraction, Different Behavior

This lesson is a repeat of lesson 1. The only difference is that you’ll be working on a different behavior.

Procedure:

  1. Bring your dog into the training area.
  2. Place the distraction out of your dog’s reach.
  3. Have two cookies in your hand.
  4. Request a different behavior. If you have been working on a sit, then maybe you’d like to do a down, or a few seconds of loose leash walking, or maybe a recall. As a side note, if you choose a recall, make a point of standing so that your dog is traveling away from the distraction rather than heading towards it. This is the only way that we can be sure that your dog is actually coming to you as opposed to heading to the counter.
  5. Reward success with two cookies as described above.
  6. Admire the distraction if your dog fails, then try again.

Lesson #3: New Distractions

This lesson introduces new distractions! Use low-level distractions at first, then slowly raise the value. Don’t forget to raise the value of your motivator, too!

Procedure:

  1. Bring your dog into the training area.
  2. Place the distraction out of your dog’s reach.
  3. Have two cookies in your hand.
  4. Request an easy behavior.
  5. Reward success with two cookies.
  6. Admire the distraction if your dog fails, then try again.
  7. Repeat this lesson, varying the distraction.

For more advice on training your dog listen anytime, anywhere, purchase Beyond the Back Yard from Whole Dog Journal.

The “Two-Treat Method”

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Editorial Staff
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Beyond The Back Yard Book from Whole Dog Journal

When your dog is successful, reward your dog with the “two-treat method”:

  • Have two cookies in your hand
  • Give your dog one cookie from your hand while your praise enthusiastically.
  • Back up so that you end up farther away from the distraction, so that your dog is likely to run back to you instead of heading to the distraction.
  • Give her a second cookie when she is back with you again. What a deal!
  • Your reward should always be higher value than your distraction.

Don’t worry if your dog fails. Failure is a natural part of learning. Remain calm and resist the urge to yell “no” or physically move your dog around. Instead, follow this procedure:

  • Go to the distraction. Pick it up. Talk to your dog about it. Admire it together.
  • And then put it back.
  • Go to the same place you were before and ask the dog for the behavior again.
  • If your dog fails again, make the task just a bit easier.
  • For example, you might stand closer to your dog, or move the distraction a bit farther away. Or if you asked for a stay, you might change your duration from five seconds to three seconds.

If your dog fails three times in a row, stop. The task is too hard for your dog. Go back to the previous step or find a way to make it easier for your dog. Ask yourself the following questions:

  • Did you use a low enough value of distraction?
  • Are you using a higher value reward?
  • Does your dog KNOW that you have a higher value reward?
  • And this is the big one: are you SURE that your dog knows the base behavior in that environment when no distraction is present? If your dog does not know the command, you can repeat if till the cows come home, but you will not achieve success.

Each training session should be 5 minutes long OR LESS. Training should be fun, so don’t keep going unless both you and your dog are enjoying it. You can repeat a lesson up to (but no more than) three times in a day. Ten minutes a day is an excellent target.

Each training session should focus on one behavior only. If you’d like to work on another behavior, do so in separate training sessions. Each lesson should be repeated until your dog is successful at least 80% of the time. In addition, your dog should be bright and eager to train. If she’s not having fun, that training session has not been successful, no matter how well she performed!

For more advice on training your dog listen anytime, anywhere, purchase Beyond the Back Yard from Whole Dog Journal.

Replacement Behaviors

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Editorial Staff
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Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 Book from Whole Dog Journal

A replacement behavior is what you teach your dog to do instead of the problem behavior. The key to making this work is when replacement behavior becomes a more efficient or more effective way for the dog to earn the functional reward than the original problem behavior(s). Let’s go back to the example of the dog who rushes across the room, barks, and scratches the door when you reach for your keys or his leash. If you clip on the leash and open the door to let the dog out after he does all of that, you are providing him a functional reward (the fun outing) for his behavior and you will have to repaint your door much more often. If that has happened with your dog, your best strategy is to start requiring him to sit before you clip the leash on. If the dog is bouncing around, simply set down the leash and patiently, silently refuse to clip the leash to the collar until he sits. Sitting becomes the replacement behavior for jumping and acting crazy because you have made going for a walk contingent upon polite behavior: your dog gets to go on a walk fi, and only if, he is calm. Making the functional reward of walks and car rides contingent upon sitting will quickly calm down the situation at your door.

To read more on ways to deal with fear, frustration and aggression in dogs, purchase Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 by Grisha Stewart at Whole Dog Journal.

Ask Yourself “Why”?

By
Editorial Staff
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Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 Book from Whole Dog Journal

If your dog is exhibiting some behavior you don’t want, you may have wondered, “Why is he doing it?” does he not love you? Is he trying to dominate you? If he knows you don’t like whatever it is he is doing, then why does he keep doing it? Is he not your best friend, after all? I think the answer is that he behaves the way he does simply because he has some need that the behavior helps him meet. He may not even find the behavior particularly fun to do, as is the case with most reactivity. But your dog has learned that behavior is a way to get what he wants or needs.

Think creatively about what your dog gets as a result of doing a problem behavior (whatever he’s doing that you want to change). In other words, what is the functional reward for his behavior? Think of the functional reward as a “real life” consequence that reinforces the problem behavior. Has your dog learned that barking at strangers makes them move away? The fact that the person moves away creates safety in the dog’s mind by putting distance between him and a stranger. That is the functional reward for his barking.

Once you know the functional reward(s) for your dog’s problem behavior, the next step is to find other behaviors you can encourage your dog to do that can reasonably lead to that same reward. For example, you can reward your dog’s choice to turn his head away from approaching strangers instead of barking at them. That would make looking away a replacement behavior for the problem behavior of barking. Sniffing the ground, yawning, sitting, or looking at you are also appropriate possible replacement behaviors for reactivity. Reinforce the replacement behavior(s) by using the same functional reward that your dog earned from doing the problem behavior. For example, when he looks away (a replacement behavior), happily walk your dog away from the stranger, thereby increasing the distance between dog and stranger (the functional reward). That’s the core concept of Functional Analysis – using the functional reward of the problem behavior to pay for more appropriate behaviors. The functional reward concept can be applied to just about any problem behavior. Behavioral Adjustment Training is a way to apply the scientific concept of Functional Analysis to reactivity problems: use the functional reward of reactivity to pay for more appropriate social behaviors.

To read more on ways to deal with fear, frustration and aggression in dogs, purchase Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 by Grisha Stewart at Whole Dog Journal.

Agility Teaches Relaxation (for Both)

By
Editorial Staff
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Beginner’s Guide for Agility Training eBook from Whole Dog Journal

The benefits of agility do not end with the training session. One extremely helpful technique for modifying aggressive behavior is teaching a dog to relax. Some of the more active dogs (herding, terrier, and sporting types) can benefit tremendously by the relaxing aftereffect of exercise. After a good agility workout, most active dogs curl up for a nap.

Make it a habit to sit quietly for at least 10 to 15 minutes with your dog in a comfortable place after your agility practice session. Sit on a blanket or pad, or, if you are not at home (and if your dog is reacting to other dogs or activity nearby), sit in the back seat of the car together.

When she is sitting or lying quietly with you, reward her with treats and calm petting or massage strokes – that is, if she enjoys petting. (If she ducks your touch or becomes more energetic when you stroke her, don’t pet her during this quiet time.)

Ignore her if she is active or restless. Reinforce only the desired behavior: tuning into you and calming down. Keep yourself calm and quiet, too! Don’t “tune out” will the cell phone or by socializing with other humans. Take some deep breaths (in and out!), relax all your muscles, and just “be” with your dog for a few minutes.

For additional information on whether agility training is right for you and your dog, purchase the Whole Dog Journal ebook Beginner’s Guide for Agility Training.

The Importance of Training

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Editorial Staff
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Beginner’s Guide for Agility Training eBook from Whole Dog Journal

Agility training involves teaching the individual at each end of the leash. The human must implement all the obstacle training taught in class, and learn handling skills such as when and how to use verbal and physical cues to direct her dog around the course. The canine must be taught how to perform each obstacle.

In addition, the dog must be taught to immediately respond to all those verbal and physical cues in a fast-moving, changing environment. No two courses are ever the same, so the handler must make decisions about handling based on the course in front of her. The dog must closely attend to the handler in order to detect cues that come one after the other.

If you have competed in other dog sports, the learning curve may not be as steep as it is for people who have never trained for a performance sport. That said, the agility world is filled with people who tried agility as their first dog sport and became hooked.

Before enrolling your dog in an agility class, you and your dog should be able to work in a distracting environment (both handler and dog have to be able to focus well!) and have mastered basic pet manners behaviors. These include sit, down, stay, come when called, and leash manners. The most challenging aspect of an agility class is keeping your dog focused on you and able to learn new skills in a group class environment. Dogs that are tremendously motivated by toys and food do the best. Additionally, depending upon your instructor, previous clicker training will be advantageous since that training technique is used more and more in this sport.

For additional information on whether agility training is right for you and your dog, purchase the Whole Dog Journal ebook Beginner’s Guide for Agility Training.

Where To Go To Adopt a Dog

By
Editorial Staff
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Adopting Your New Dog Series eBook from Whole Dog Journal

There are lots of different places you can go to get a dog. Some are better than others, and there are some you should never patronize. Animal shelters are a good place to begin.

Animal shelters – Truth is there are good shelters and not-so-good ones. If you live near a good one, your adoption process will be facilitated by knowledgeable and friendly adoption counselors who can help you make a good decision about your new family member. In the good shelters, staff will have conducted behavioral assessments of the adoption dogs, which will provide you with useful information and help you determine if the dog might be a good match. If you live near a not-so-good shelter you have a choice – to adopt from that shelter, conducting your own impromptu assessment and risking diseases such as kennel cough and parvo that lurk in the corners of substandard facilities, or to travel a greater distance to adopt from a better quality shelter.

A really good shelter will give you a thorough and human-friendly vetting before they’ll agree to adopt one of their dogs to you. If they fall a little short on the customer-relations end of things, have patience and remember, it’s only because they really are concerned that their dogs go to lifelong loving homes. This caveat holds for any of the best placement programs – they will check you out carefully, and may sometimes be a little overzealous in those efforts.

Don’t rule out shelters if you’re looking for a particular breed or mix – many breeds show up in shelters with disturbing frequency. Ask your shelter if they have a waiting list or “wish list” for approved adopters who want to adopt a specified breed or type of dog. Then get your name on the list.

If you know what you’re looking for and what to watch out for, you can find great dogs in almost any bona fide shelter. If you lack experience or confidence in your dog selection talents, take along a knowledgeable friend or positive canine professional to help you make a good choice.

For additional information on how to bring home the right dog for your family, purchase the Whole Dog Journal ebook Adopting Your New Dog Series.

Symptoms of Addison’s Disease

By
Editorial Staff
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Addison’s Disease eBook from Whole Dog Journal

Addison’s disease is the common name for hypoadrenocorticism, or adrenal insufficiency.

The adrenal glands do not produce enough, if any, of a number of hormones, including aldosterone, which maintains sodium and potassium levels to regulate blood pressure (among other important functions), and cortisol, which helps the body metabolize glucose and deal effectively with physical and mental stresses of all kinds. It can occur with people as well as animals.

The two adrenal glands are located on top of each kidney, and are sometimes called the suprarenal glands. They are made up of two layers, the outer cortex and the inner medulla. The cortex secretes glucocorticoids, such as cortisol, and mineralocorticoids, such as aldosterone.

The medulla are of the adrenal gland, part of the sympathetic nervous system, secretes epinephrine and is generally not affected by Addison’s.

There are three types of Addison’s disease: primary, secondary, and atypical. Primary and atypical Addison’s are usually the result of immune-mediated damage to the glands. Secondary hypoadrenocorticism is failure of the pituitary to stimulate the adrenals with adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH). It is most often the result of long-term corticosteroid therapy (i.e., prednisone), and also can be caused b tumors, trauma, or pituitary deformities.

For more information on the diagnosis and treatment of Addison’s disease, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Addison’s Disease.

Money-Saving Strategies for Dogs With Addison’s Disease

By
Editorial Staff
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Addison’s Disease eBook from Whole Dog Journal

To make Addison’s treatment affordable, many caregivers purchase compounded fludrocortisone from a compounding pharmacy. The compounded version is much more cost-effective for larger dogs than brand-name Florinef. Most dogs who receive Percorten-V injections and about half of those who take Florinef require a small daily oral dose of inexpensive prednisone as well.

Other money-saving strategies include giving shots at home to avoid having to pay for an office visit for each injection, purchasing medications online at a discount with help of veterinarians willing to write the necessary prescriptions, or negotiating with veterinarians to keep office visit costs to a minimum.

For more information on the diagnosis and treatment of Addison’s disease, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Addison’s Disease.

Low Protein Dog Food

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Low protein dog food is one of many prescription foods for pets pictured here in a display.
Veterinarians sometimes recommend a low protein food for their canine patients. Make sure you understand whether your dog needs a dog food with low protein, or a very low-protein prescription diet, available only from your veterinarian or with your veterinarian’s prescription. Low-protein prescription dog foods often contain less protein than the minimum required for over-the-counter foods. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Has your veterinarian told you that you should buy a dog food that’s low in protein for your dog? If so, there are some things you should understand about dog food with low protein.

While protein is vital to a dog’s health for energy and to support the dog’s vital organs, skin, hair, tendons, ligaments, muscles, and more, many dogs are prescribed low-protein diets. In dogs with kidney issues, a reduced protein intake can alleviate some of the workload on the kidneys. Other medical conditions, such as chronic gastrointestinal upset or liver disease, also may benefit from restricted protein intake. However, there is dog food that is low in protein, and there is dog food with really low protein.

What Is a Low Protein Dog Food?

The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) guidelines set a minimum protein percentage of 18% for adult maintenance and 22.5% for dogs of all life stages (ALS, which includes growth and reproduction), on what’s called a dry matter (DM) basis (more about that in a minute).

Diets with a protein concentration below the legally required minimum levels for most dogs must be prescribed by a veterinarian. The dog food with the lowest protein level you can purchase without a prescription is 18% protein on a dry matter (DM) basis. (This is how much protein is in the food with the product’s moisture removed.) But the prescription low-protein dog foods contain far less than that; some contain as little as 13% or 14% protein.

Before you buy, you need to know whether your vet wants your dog to be fed a prescription low-protein dog food, or just a lower-protein dog food?  Because, besides the legal minimum for most dogs, there are no definitions or standards for what are considered low-protein diets, diets with moderate protein levels, and high-protein diets. And many foods that contain high-quality ingredients may contain twice as much protein as the legal minimum, or even more!  Most  veterinary nutritionists consider the following ranges for protein on a DM basis:

Low protein: 20% or less
Moderate/Normal: ~25%
High Protein: 30% or higher

So: Does your dog need a diet that has prescription-low levels of protein, or just an amount of protein that’s on the lower end? It likely depends on the severity of the health problem that your veterinarian is trying to address.

What to Look for in a Low-Protein Dog Food

When looking at low-protein diets, prioritize high-quality, highly digestible protein sources. These include animal-based proteins, such as meat and eggs, which tend to have optimal amino acid profiles and are highly digestible by dogs. With these sources, dogs will get the most benefit out of the smaller amount of protein they consume. You should see these ingredients listed among the first five ingredients.

The Difference Between Dry Matter and “As Fed” Nutrient Levels

All dog food labels list the product’s minimum protein and fat and maximum fiber and moisture in the guaranteed analysis. These numbers are referred to as the “as fed” values – meaning, as the product exists in the bag or can. In contrast, nutritionists prefer to discuss a food’s nutrient levels on a dry matter basis, so they can compare nutrient levels in diets with varying amounts of moisture in them. Dry matter values consider the nutrient concentration in the food if all the moisture were to be removed. The higher the moisture content, the lower the as-fed protein will be because the water in the food “dilutes” the nutrient concentration.

Most dry dog foods contain a maximum of 10% moisture. To determine the protein content of a food expressed on a dry-matter basis, subtract the moisture content of the food from 100 to get the dry matter factor. (If the food contains 10% moisture, the dry matter factor would be 90.) Then, divide the as-fed protein percentage by the dry matter factor; the result is the amount of protein on a dry matter basis.

Converting As-Fed Protein Levels to Dry Matter Protein Levels

Food Type% Moisture
Dry Matter Factor		Protein %
As Fed 		Doing the
Math		Protein %
Dry Matter Basis
Dry Food10%, 9016.2%16.2÷90 = 0.1818.0%
Dry Food10%, 9020%20÷90 = 0.2222.0%
Dry Food10%, 9025%25÷90 = 0.2727.0%
Dry Food10%, 9030%30÷90 = 0.3333.0%
Dry Food10%, 9035%35÷90 = 0.3838.0%
Dry Food10%, 9040%40÷90 =0.4444.0%
Canned Food78%, 224.0%4÷22=0.1818%
Canned Food78%, 226.0%6÷22=0.2727%
Canned Food78%, 2210.0%10÷22= 0.4545%
Canned Food78%, 2215.0%15÷22= 0.6868%

Don’t Go Too Low

Be careful choosing your dog’s protein level. Protein is vital to your dog’s health and going too low can cause physical problems like muscle loss and weakness. In a healthy dog, excess protein is simply excreted in the urine.

Low-protein diets should not be fed to growing puppies, highly active dogs, or pregnant or lactating dogs. Protein is important for dogs who are growing, have higher protein requirements for muscle maintenance and repair, or have higher nutritional needs. In the absence of specific health issues, healthy adult dogs generally do well with a balanced diet containing moderate protein levels.

If your dog is suffering from health issues, be sure to work with your veterinarian to find a diet that has the appropriate levels of protein given their current health status.

Low-Protein Prescription Diets for Dogs Have Very Low Protein Levels

Diets that have been formulated with very low protein levels are available only with a veterinarian’s prescription and should be fed under the guidance of a veterinarian. These foods should not be fed to puppies, growing dogs, or pregnant or nursing females. Also, they should not be fed for years and years, as they contain less of the protein that has been determined to be the minimum required for dogs.

The following are prescription low-protein foods for dogs, with their protein content expressed on a dry matter basis. Your dog may not require a prescription low-protein diet; an over-the-counter dog food with a lower-protein content may be therapeutic enough.

Hills Prescription diet k/d with chicken
Protein min 15.6% DM

Hills Prescription diet k/d  + j/d chicken flavor
Protein min 15.9% DM

Hills Prescription diet u/d 
Protein min 13.8% DM

Royal Canin Canine Urinary UC
Protein min 20.0% DM

Royal Canin Canine Urinary SO
Protein min 18.0% DM

The Great Pretender

By
Editorial Staff
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Addison’s Disease eBook from Whole Dog Journal

Addison’s disease, called “The Great Pretender,” is often misdiagnosed because it resembles so many other illnesses. Patients with Addison’s are often erroneously diagnosed as having gastrointestinal diseases such as inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), infections, parasites, cancer of the gastrointestinal tract, or poisoning. Acute renal failure, liver disease, urinary blockage, pancreatitis, insulinoma, hyperparathyroidism, and protein-losig enteropathy are other common misdiagnoses.

The most dramatic Addison’s symptom is the endocrine emergency called Addisonian crisis. This occurs when the dog goes into shock due to circulatory collapse, and it can happen so quickly that a healthy looking dog is suddenly, within a few hours, close to death.

For many dog owners, the crisis is their first sign that something is wrong. About 30-35 percent of dogs with Addison’s are initially diagnosed during a crisis.

For more information on the diagnosis and treatment of Addison’s disease, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Addison’s Disease.

How To Use A Clicker In Dog Training

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Clickers for dog training make a sharp clicking noise when pressed helping to cue a dog.
A short, flat, flexible piece of metal inside a plastic box makes a sharp clicking noise when it is pressed, either by the user’s thumb or, for the button clickers, by the button pressing on it.

A dog training clicker is a small low-tech device that makes a distinct and consistent clicking noise. There isn’t any magic to it; on its own, it doesn’t compel a dog to do anything. However, if you consistently follow its use with a food treat (or other salient reward), the dog will quickly learn that the noise predicts something good is coming his way – and what’s more, that he can make the noise (and treat) happen again by repeating whatever he was doing at the moment he heard the click.

When used in this way, the clicker is an example of a reward marker – which can be any consistent signal that allows you to precisely mark the moment your dog does a desired behavior and promises that a reward is coming soon. The advantage of a clicker over a verbal reward marker (such as saying a word like “Yes!”) is that the clicker makes the exact same sound each time you press it. Humans naturally sound more enthusiastic at some times than others, which can inadvertently introduce some concern or confusion for the dog, but the clicker always sounds the same!

Types of Clickers

There are many different kinds of clickers, but most are made with a small piece of metal inside of a plastic box; you press one end of the metal to make it flex, which makes the clicking sound. Some have a button that presses the metal strip instead. Some are just held in the palm of your hand; others have a retractable cord in a holder that you can clip to your waistband or treat pouch; still others have a coiled bracelet that you can wear on your wrist, so you can drop the clicker and still have it handy.

How to Use a Clicker

A trainer stands next to a dog after it laid down after being cued by a clicker.
The trainer holds a clicker in her right hand; she just asked for a Down with a signal from her left hand and clicked the clicker the moment the dog’s elbows came into contact with the ground. Next, she’ll reach into the treat pouch on her belt and give him a treat.
  1. Start by “charging” the clicker. This means teaching your dog that the “click” means a treat is forthcoming. To avoid scaring your dog, start with the clicker in your pocket. “Click,” pause a second or two, and feed your dog a tasty treat. (Be sure to pause briefly; if you move the treat too soon the click becomes irrelevant.) Repeat several times: Click, pause, treat. If the sound doesn’t bother him, put the clicker behind your back for a few more repetitions of click, pause, treat. By now he’s probably perking up when he hears the click because he knows a treat is coming!

Hold the clicker at your waist and click, pause, and treat a few more times. (Note: Keep the clicker still, do not move it toward the dog when you click – it’s not a TV remote!)

  1. Begin marking behaviors that you want to reinforce. Ask your dog to perform a behavior that he knows, such as sit. When he sits, click, pause, and give him a treat. You’re telling him he got the treat for sitting.

If he doesn’t know how to do any behaviors on cue yet, lure him into a desired behavior position, such as sit. Lure him into the sit, click the moment his bottom touches the ground, and give him a treat. Lure him into the sit another couple of times, giving him a click and then a treat each time his bottom touches the ground; then wait a few seconds to see if he will offer a sit without the lure. If he does, click and give him a treat! You should soon see that your dog will do new behaviors that you mark with the clicker more quickly, more easily, and more often. Now you can use the clicker for anything you want to teach your dog!

Is Your Dog Afraid of the Click?

Some dogs are highly sound-sensitive and look concerned or plainly scared at the sound of a clicker. If this is the case, instead using a clicker, you can either use a verbal marker (I tell my clients to just say “click”) or make a clicking sound with your mouth. Some people can make a consistent sort of popping sound by snapping their tongue off the roof of their mouth; others use a sort of clucking sound in their cheek like you’d use to ask a horse to move forward.

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